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mauritius discover
Mauritius is a fascinating, world-in-oneisland slice of paradise. We show you the best this island has to offer.
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mauritius discover
Mauritius is a fascinating, world-in-one-island slice of paradise. We show you the best this island has to offer.
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M
auritius is a fascinating,
find your own patch. The smells,
world-in-one-island slice
noises and bustle of the mercantile
of paradise. Its very name
capital Port Louis, Africa’s wealthi-
of conjures up images of tropical
est city, are never far away, while
luxury and stupendous extravagance.
the busy garment markets in the
While in many destinations famed for
Central Plateau towns of Quatre
cobalt-blue seas, white sandy beach-
Bornes and Curepipe and Black
es and luxury hotels, you may even-
River Gorges National Park's dra-
tually find yourself wishing for some-
matic virgin forests give the lie to
thing to do besides sunbathing and
Mauritius being just another beach
swimming, it’s often hard to know
destination. But what beaches!
what to do next in Mauritius. The
From the stunning sand-rimmed
island is loaded with historic sights,
lagoons and popular wide public
cultural diversity, geographic varia-
beaches to the picturesque islands
tion and almost limitless activities to
off the country’s coastline, there’s
distract you from the daily grind of
truly something for everyone here.
beach and pool. But perhaps its sin-
Add to this the joys of Chinese, In-
gle biggest asset is the relaxed charm
dian, French and African cuisine,
of its warm and welcoming people.
the rousing beat of séga music and
Mauritius is the most developed
the infectious party spirit of the
of the Mascarene Islands, but with
locals, and you soon understand
a bit of effort and resourcefulness
why Mauritius really is so many
you can escape the crowds and
people’s idea of paradise on earth.
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1
Port Louis With
its
spectacular
set-
ting beneath the impres-
sive mountain peaks of Le Pouce and Pieter Both, Port Louis makes an impression on anyone arriving on the main road from the airport – descending from the Central Plateau into the hectic city centre with the Indian Ocean spread out in a perspective-defying frieze above the city is a wonderful experience. Despite being the national capital, the main economic hub and the biggest city in the country, Port Louis occupies a rather strange place in the psyche of modern Mauritius. Port Louis has plenty going for it, but it’s a city that profits from exploration: those who only visit the fantastically
Disneyesque
Caudan
Waterfront will get a very bland impression of the national capital. The bustle and chaos of the streets, the city’s famous market, Chinatown, the collection of museums and some wonderfully preserved colonial buildings make Port Louis far more than a place to come for some pricey shopping away from the beach.
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2
Le Morne Peninsula
remain free. The story has it that
Visible from much of south-
the slaves, ignorant of the fact that
ern Mauritius, Le Morne Bra-
slavery had been abolished sub-
bant (556m) is the stunning, vast
sequent to their escape, panicked
rock from which this beautiful pen-
when they saw a troop of soldiers
insula takes its name. The peninsula
making their way up the cliffs one
itself has some of the country’s best
day. Believing they were to be recap-
beaches along its 4km shores and is
tured, the slaves flung themselves
home to a number of upmarket ho-
from the cliff tops to their deaths
tels. Almost totally uninhabited by
in huge numbers, which explains
locals, the peninsula nevertheless
the origin of the name Le Morne
has a particular resonance in Mau-
(Mournful One). Although there are
ritian culture – it was apparently to
no historical records to substantiate
here that a group of escaped slaves
the story, it’s an important one for
fled in the early 19th century, hid-
Mauritians as a reminder of the is-
ing out on top of the mountain to
land’s brutal history.
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3
Lion Mountain
set of concrete steps begins on the Grand
right just after you reach the start
Mountain
of the forested area. The steps lead
(480m/1575ft), immediately recogni-
to a bunker, from where a footpath
sable by its sphinx-like profile. The
climbs through the forest to the top
mountain offers a splendid half-day
of the lion's 'back'. Once here, you
hike with stunning views over the
can detour to the right for a view
coast. It's a very challenging but
out over the coast before heading
rewarding walk that climbs up the
inland to the peak itself.
Overlooking Port
is
Vieux Lion
lion's 'back' to finish at an impressive viewpoint on its 'head'.
The main trail runs straight along the ridge and up over a rocky area to the
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The trail begins beside the police sta-
peak. There are a few hairy scrambles
tion at the north end of Vieux Grand
over the rocks before you reach the
Port. From there, a 4WD track heads
flat area on the lion's 'head'. From
inland through the sugar cane; turn
here, you can see right across the
right at the first junction and fol-
interior of the island. Allow around
low the trail up towards the ridge. A
three to four hours for the return trip.
4
Tamarin Falls Tamarin is awkward to reach, but it's worth the effort for
a beautiful, deep, cool bathe at the bottom of a series of seven spectacular waterfalls. They are only accessible via a challenging trail that begins near the Tamarin Falls reservoir, but you will have to explore to find it. It's best to take a local guide from Henrietta.
5
Île aux Cerfs This stunning island off the east coast of Mauritius is
one of the most popular day trips in the country for both foreigners and Mauritians alike. In fact it’s rather become a victim of its own success, inasmuch as it’s now hard to find the deserted beaches that were once the main draw in the first place. While the island was once populated by cerfs or stags (imported for hunting from Java) you’ll find only touts and tourists there today. However, the further you go from the boat jetty, the more likely you are to find a patch of sand between the sun-bronzed bodies. At low tide you can also wade across to the smaller and quieter Île de l’Est, which is joined to Île aux Cerfs by a picturesque sand bar. In winter, the beaches on the island’s west side provide sheltered sunbathing spots. Much of the Île aux Cerfs belongs to the plush Le Touessrok hotel. The majority of water sports on offer are reserved for hotel guests, although the magnificent 18-hole golf course is also open to outsiders as long as they book in advance.
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6
Cap Malheureux The northern edge of Mauritius has stunning views out
to the islands off the coast beyond, most obviously of the dramatic slopes of Coin de Mire. Although it feels like rather a backwater today, ‘Cape Misfortune’ (thus named for the number of ships that foundered on the rocks here) is a place of great historical importance for Mauritius: it was here that the British invasion force finally defeated the French in 1810 and took over the island. A little further on lies the minuscule fishing village also known as Cap Malheureux, with its much-photographed church, the red-roofed
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Belle Mare & Around North from Trou d’Eau Douce as far as Pointe de Flacq, a
10km-long
beach
includes
some
Notre Dame Auxiliatrice. It’s worth
of the best white sand and azure
a quick peek inside for its intricate
ocean in Mauritius, unsurprisingly
woodwork and a holy-water basin
also home to the largest stretch of
fashioned out of a giant clamshell.
luxury hotels in the country. The beach around Belle Mare is generally
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Heading around the coast the land-
regarded as one of the island’s fin-
scape becomes wilder and more rug-
est; Palmar beach, just to the south,
ged. In between the rocky coves and
is not far behind. Belle Mare itself
muddy tidal creeks a clutch of hotels
is a small, nondescript kind of place
occupy the few decent beaches. They
with little to recommend it. How-
offer a perfect hideaway for those
ever, there are several currency ex-
who want to get away from it all.
changes here and two supermarkets.
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