Mysuru - City of Heritage

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City of Heritage

MYSURU

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Mysuru Rosewood Inlay


All rights reserved Copyright Š 2017 by Riya Singhai and Thejas Jayan No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the author. This Book is part of Craft Publication by the student of Fashion Communication Department of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru. C.A. Site #21, 27th Main HSR Layout, PWD Quarters, 1st Sector, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560102



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PREFACE Handicrafts form the gateway to this ethnic nation. So far as art and culture is concerned, India features amongst the culturally rich countries in the world. Owning to the diversity of our country there are an innumerable crafts widespread through the most remote corners of the countries. One such craft is the Mysore rosewood inlay. This book includes an insight about the oldest craft of South India, the story of how it grew and what is the current scenario. The country is fortunate enough to possess some highly skilled artisans. They have increased the fame of Indian handicrafts around the globe and till now, many rural people earn their livelihood from their creative pieces of art. In the following pages we have enumerated our journey not only with the artisans in Mysuru but also the people living and working around this craft as they shared with us their experiences and stories. At last this book will take you to the heritage lanes of Mysuru with amazing captures of local people and places.

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I M P O R TA N C E O F

Craft DO CU MENTATION

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n India, crafts are one of the major industries of “the imagination” and of traditional knowledge and skill. India’s myriad craft traditions and living craft skills are rare and irreplaceable resources, generally acknowledged as living links to the past and as a means of preserving cultural meaning into the future. Both within India and without, large numbers of connoisseurs avidly collect examples of specific craft genre, and numerous scholarly treatises and expensive coffee-table books are written on various craft forms. Crafts form a special category of traditional knowledge, and many Indian craft forms fit into both of the above categories. The intrinsic beauty of many Indian craft traditions is obvious to even the casual observer and

their meaning and cultural resonances quickly become apparent to those with even a brief exposure to Indian history and society. The full potential of the role craft traditions can play in the development process, and specifically in the generation of income, however, has only recently begun to be appreciated. Protecting and preserving these skills and knowledge is a major challenge; ensuring that they provide viable livelihoods for their owners is an even greater one. And the latter challenge is, of course, a necessary part of achieving the former.

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TABLE OF

CONTENTS

01 02 MYSURU

Introduction Demographics People of Mysuru History

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MYSORE ROSEWOOD INLAY

Introduction History Process Places Products Kaveri Emporium


03 04 05 LIFE AROUND ROSEWOOD INLAY

Introduction Stories

PLACES TO VISIT

Amba Villas Palace St.Philomena’s Church Jaganmohan Palace Mysore Zoo Brindavan Garden Devaraj Market Chamundi hills Moving Around Accomodation

CONCLUSION Glossary Bibliography Credits Details

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1. From Chamundi Hills 2. Chamaraja Chowk

MYSURU The historic settlement of Mysuru (which changed its name from Mysore in 2014) is one of South India’s most enchanting cities, famed for its glittering royal heritage and magnificent monuments and buildings. Its World Heritage–listed palace brings most travellers here, but Mysuru is also rich in tradition with a deeply atmospheric bazaar district littered with spice stores and incense stalls. Ashtanga yoga is another drawcard and there are several acclaimed schools which attract visitors from across the globe. In its center is opulent Mysore Palace, seat of the former ruling Wodeyar dynasty. The palace blends Hindu, Islamic, Gothic and Rajput styles. Mysore is also home to the centuries-old Devaraja Market, filled with spices, silk and sandalwood.

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HISTORY

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he history of Mysore begins in the legends surrounding its name. ‘Mahishuru’ was the domain of the wicked demon, Mahishasara. He was killed by Goddess Chamundeswari, whose temple is located on top of the nearby Chamundi Hills. Mahishuru later evolved into Mysuru or Mysore. Initially a part of the Vijayanagara Empire, the kingdom of Mysore gained independence in the 17th century. With the city of Mysore as its capital, the kingdom flourished under the rule of the Wodeyar Kings. In the latter half of the 18th century, the kingdom came under the rule of Hyder Ali and his son, Tipu Sultan. After the death of Tipu Sultan, the Wodeyar kings were reinstated by the British and became puppet monarchs under the suzerainty of the British Crown. After India’s independence, Mysore city remained a part of the state of Mysore, now known as Karnataka. In recent years, Mysore has emerged as a favoured tourist destination of the people of the state.

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DEMOGRAPHICS

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Bengaluru 140 kms Northeast

he name Mysore is often used to refer Mysore district, Mysore sub-district, Mysore city and in historic contest the Mysore kingdom that spanned most of the present day Karnataka state. Here we are talking about the Mysore city which is also the administrative headquarters of Mysore district. This is the second largest city in Karnataka after Bangalore, the state capital. With about 2.5 million visitors every year, Mysore is one of the most visited cities in India. Mysore sits in the south Indian plane ( often referred as the Deccan plateau). The area covered by forests is 4,126.45 sq. km. The principal species of trees in the forest include teak, rosewood, honne, eucalyptus and sandalwood.

AREA 128 sq km

34.52% of Forest Area

50.01%

49.99%

770 metres above sea level

POPULATION 7.8 LAKHS

Mysuru enjoys a cool weather throughout the year. Those traveling to Mysore tends to bring warm clothes, though the winter day temperatures hardly reaches freezing levels. Kannada is the most widely spoken language in Mysore. A large number of the city’s population speaks Urdu too. If you do not speak either, in the city you will not find it difficult to manage in English. Businesses centered around tourism is usually communicated in English, especially when it comes to tourists from outside the state.

Hindu 73.6%

Islam 21.92%

Christian 2.71% 17


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People sitting on the roadside inside Devraja Market


PEOPLE OF

MysoreT

he people of Mysore are known as Mysoreans in English and Mysoorinavaru in Kannada, the regional

language. Mysore is the third most populous city in the state of Karnataka and almost 19% of the people live below the poverty line. A good majority of the residents are Hindus. A minority of the people follow Islam and Christianity. Mysore has nurtured many famous personalities, the most well-known among them being R.K. Narayan. Many of the characters penned by this famous novelist, are said to have been based on real-life Mysoreans. Many of the people depend on the tourism industry for their livelihood. Mysoreans also contribute to the textile industry in the form of ‘Mysore Silk’, made from specially-bred silkworm farms around the city. The people follow a mixture of traditional and western type of dressing style.

Outside Devraja market, people sitting for their buses.

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Mysore

Rosewood

Inlay

Artisan having tea in between of completing Inlayed dining table

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Introduction Wood inlay is the process of decorating the surface of wood by setting in pieces of material such as ivory, bone, plastic, or wood of different colours. This craft is concentrated in Mysore and Bangalore in Karnataka. The artisan smoothens the base of the rose wood and the design is traced and etched into the surface. The several components of the inlay are painstakingly assembled to match and fit exactly into the grooves and are then glued in. The design is finished by obtaining the required shades with several coats of polish. Examples of inlay work in Karnataka include the ivory inlay in rose wood and ebony in the Srirangapatnam mausoleum�;� the doors of the Amba Vilas palace in Mysore are also fine examples of inlay. Products with inlay include plates, boxes, bowls, cigarette cases, and figures of animals, especially elephants, which continue to be popular. The designs include floral and geometric patterns, landscapes, pastoral scenes, processions, and scenes from the epics. 22


History of Rosewood Inlay

Rosewood Inlay is a craft that is synonymous with Mysuru, which was brought into India from Persia, in the 18th century. The artisans had settled in Srirangapatna- under Tipu Sultan and Hyder Ali. Mysore Inlay woodwork flourished in India 300 years ago during the 17th Century. A few artisans were inlaying rosewood with carved pieces of ivory and deer horn to make exquisite articles of desire. The Wadiyars to whom the Mysore kingdom was restored by the British continued to encourage them. The artisans generally got inspired from local flora and fauna and from local tradition and included mostly geometric patterns. In the past, the artisans used to carve using deer horn, the wooden doors of the Dariya Daulat Baagh in Srirangapatna and the Amba villas palace in Mysore are the best examples of these. The unique material culture and simple technique brought the revolution in the world of art and craft and also in the life of people. 23


TOOLS The production of inlay works is a multi-step process. From the sources of raw materials to the finishing of final product, number of multi-purpose tools are used. Tools used by the artisans are basic hand tools like

Hand Drills Tagad (Scrapping Chisels) Hathodi (Hammer) Ambor (plier) Bowor hex saw 24


Initially, a design is created and finalized on paper, with specific color outlines and markings. Stencils are made and used to create markings on wood surface, the surface is then cut away to provide recesses which are to be filled. The designs are filled with pieces of colored woods and plastic, and stuck using glue. After the pieces have been properly installed, the surface is scraped down using flint paper to bring all the inlay pieces to the same level, ensuring uniformity. A chisel is used to scrape out smaller details for each figure, which are then applied with a formula of molten wax and charcoal. It is again scraped out with a chisel, so that the was cleanly removes only in the groups of design. After assembling all the parts of the object, the product is then smoothened and polished as finished product.

PROCESS Basic steps of Rosewood Inlay process Purchasing of raw materials Making Of Planks Seasoning of wood Designing Cutting Of Templates Color setting Inlaying Application of Lappa Smoothening the Surface Engraving And Punchin Finishing

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PROCESS

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he overall process can be divided into six different parts and each part is done by one craftperson. This helps in maintaining the quality of the work, as each craftperson specializes in his work and gains experience over a period of time. 1.Making Of Planks:Cut pieces of rosewood logs are sawn by the handsaw and also by the band saw. The size of the log decides the length and width of the plank. The plank is then cut to the desired shape with a handsaw, the shape most commonly in vogue being either a rectangle or a square.The work up to this stage is done by the carpenters.

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2.Cutting Of Templates:The tracing of the design is taken in pencil on a transparent paper placed over the original design. The paper is pasted to a thin cardboard and by using a sharp edged chisel the templates are cut out.

3.Cutting Of Wood of Different Colours for Inlay:The sheet of wood is fixed tightly in a vice and the design is cut by means of a coping saw. After the pieces are cut the rough edges are smoothened using a smooth file. 4.Inlaying:The several components are assembled to form the required pattern and stuck together by the application of glue at the periphery of each piece. The assemblage of the components of the design is places on the plank in which it has to be inlaid. 5.Application of Lappa:Lappa, the paste got by scrapping rosewood scaling smeared with carpenter’s glue is overlaid on the inlaid surface, by hand, to fill the recess left unfilled.


6.Smoothing the Inlay Surface:The inlaid piece will have a rough surface which has to be given a smooth finish by scrapping. The sharpened scrapper cuts a fine shaving and produces a smooth finish. This process is followed by rubbing well with fine grade sandpaper. 7.Engraving And Punching:On the groves of the engraved, shaded and punched marks, ivory black is applied in small quantities when the engraver wants to have an idea of the markings made by him. The ivory black gets into the grooves and makes the marking more pronounced. 8.Finishing:A mixture prepared by mixing the ingredients beeswax and ivory black and adding to it a little turpentine, is applied and allowed to dry. After scrapping, the pieces are rubbed lac polish.

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he organization conducts training programs sponsored by development commissioner of handicrafts with the help of in house design center & ‘Chamraja Technical Institute’ Mysore. Located on the Banimantappa Road, 3kms away from the city center, Karakushala Nagar is nearly at a distance of 4 kms from the main bus stand, in the western outskirts of the city, lies the village.

Block 10 of Karakushalnagar, Mysore

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Karakushala Nagar

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few number of the descendent of the artisans of the past reside and work in the village – Karakushala nagar, set by the government. To encourage and enhance the crafts of Karnataka, the government set up a multi craft complex cluster in year 1986 with the help of both central and state government. The government supported set up providing living & working spaces for about 2000 crafts person & their families. In the year 1986 the fi rst batch of houses were allotted to 100 people. Two years later, 90 more were allotted. The third phase of allotment provided accommodation to a hundred more families. The year of 2000 sheltered 300 more people, as 120 more quarters were constructed. A total of 480 houses came into being in a span of 16 years. The village offers residential facilities living cum work sheds, 5 feet x 10 feet and marketing areas.

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Inside

Karakushala Nagar The DCHC states that the advantages of living in a government run cluster include subsidized rates of electricity, a consistent source of employment unlike private artisans, a daily allowance of Rs.500, chances to participate in expositions across the country and the globe without making any payment from the artisan’s own pocket due to travel allowances which is also provided.

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The government also organizes workshops that can help equip these artisans better with technology and skill development. The government also has a ‘Death Fund’ to support the artisan’s family after their demise, where they receive a dependence fee. There is certainly a gap in communication from the side of the government as well as the artisans, therefore miscommunication must be dealt with to make the system function better.


Artisan Story Mohan is a 50-year-old rosewood inlay artist residing in Karakushalanagar. Rosewood inlay is a family business which has been passed down from generation to generation. He is the 3rd generation with his son taking up the business now. Mohan lives in a one-bedroom apartment with his family consisting of 6 members since the past 30 years. He took up inlay work at the age of 15 to support the household and attended school till the 5th standard. Mohan is not tech savvy and when asked about marketing his products online, he seems disinterested and says he is too old to learn new things. In order to become a residing artist of Karakushalanagar, Mohan gave a written exam and passed after which he was allotted the house. He works in compliance with the government, taking up orders and receiving a certain commission after the products he made have been sold off. All his tools, raw materials including rosewood is provided by the government itself.

Mohan

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Mandi Mohalla Mandi Mohalla is one of the craft clusters located in Mysuru where one can find lanes upon lanes of workshops of people working with rosewood inlay, wood patchwork and Mysuru incense workshops. The artisans work and stay in Mandi Mohalla itself. It is not a government owned cluster project.

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Artisan working on a inlay Dining table

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Mandi Mohalla

Major Places

Arun Fine Arts “ I take those works which the other artisans deem impossible to do in rosewood inlay.” -Ashok

Mr. Ashok (Owner of Arun Fine Arts) Talking about his journey.

There are no constraints in this craft Ashok – a forward thinker, joined his father’s rosewood inlay work in the year 2000 and helped him expand “ARUN FINE ARTS”, both in terms of customized designer furniture and adding more deapth into inlay work. Ever since, ashok has participated in 50 exhibitions around India and has been instrumental in exporting exquisite inlay work to England, Scotland, Denmark, USA and Cyprus. Ashok has carried inlay work in various sizes ranging from 1 sq. inch to 12 × 8 ft. Ashok aspires to take rosewood inlay work from the lanes of mysore and showcase it around the world – so that the craft gets its much due appreciation and exposure. He is trying to modernize inlay work in terms of design, merchandise and by using machines in order to take it beyond the local markets. Mission Hospital Rd, Devaraja Mohalla, Mandi Mohalla - 097382 15283 34


Geetha Fine Arts Initially, the craft was patronized by Muslim benefactors due to which the craft was exclusively practiced by Muslim Artisans. But as it came to India, the craft was also practiced by Hindu along with Muslim artists. Though it is being widely recognized as an art form, it is the middlemen who profit from all the hard work of the craftsmen. This must be changed to provide a better lifestyle for the craftsmen, as it would help them evolve the craft to new heights. Before the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, ivory and ebony were extensively used for the inlay works which were still found on the Mysuru palace door frames. Typically, white acrylic is used in place of ivory to set the contrast between the dark rosewood and inlay pattern. Geetha Fine Arts is one of the most successful and acclaimed wooden handicraft manufacturing and exporting company, situated in Mandi Mohalla, Mysuru. The integrated effort of the craftsman, manager and marketing personnel ensure the creation of the best quality inlay and wood products in unique designs.

1368, Mk Street Mandi Mohalla 570021, Mandi Mohalla ¡ 0821 244 6829 Artisan working in Geetha fine arts. 35


Range of Products

During the early sixties, when rosewood inlay gained popularity, the designs were not quite as intricate and could be considered to be simple outlines that were carved out of the ivory or deerhorn, which was legal to use as a material for inlaying. The themes were traditional, with tales from the Indian mythology taking the lead.

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Within the past three decades, extensive changes have occured in the manner rosewood inlay has been practiced. The inlay work has become extremely detailed with emphasis on making realistic art and combining patchwork into rosewood inlay became a common practice. Modern interpretations of Indian mythological stories took the world by a storm.


37 Inlay products from Cauvery Emporium


The product portfolio ranges from flat wall hanging art pieces to intricate inlay on jewelry box, small idols to huge elephants. Design interventions in terms of functionality as well as aesthetic of the products have happened in last few years due to the increasing export market. 38


Infront of St Philomena’s Church

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Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium Mysuru Karnataka State Handicraft Development Corporation Ltd.

CLASSICAL & CONTEMPERORY! YET MODERN

Karnataka State Handicrafts Development Corporation Limited, (A Government of Karnataka Undertaking) was established in the year 1964 under Companies Act 1956. The objective of the corporation is to preserve, develop and promote handicrafts. Government of India and Government of Karnataka are the share holders in the organization. 40

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arnataka State is richly endowed with widely practiced, accepted and acclaimed crafts since time immemorial. The major crafts are sandalwood carvings, rosewood inlay, channapatna lacquer ware & toys, Mysore traditional paintings, bidri ware, kinhal toys, Navalgund durries, stone carvings, other wood carvings, traditional jewellery, mirror and embroidery, banana fiber, terracotta, bronze icons, Pile carpets and many more Karnataka State Handicrafts Development Corporation Limited is the pioneer in establishing 13 craft complexes across Karnataka state wherever there is concentration of artisans for various crafts. Common facility centers are also built at these craft complexes for the benefit of artisans.

4544 artisans are registered with the corporation and over 50,000 artisans are indirectly depending upon the corporation for preserving, developing and promoting their craftsmanship. The corporation has provided 1222 living cum work sheds to the eligible and deserving artisans. Raw materials such as sandalwood, silver and zinc are being provided to the artisans at subsidized rates. Workshops and training programs are conducted periodically to upgrade the craftsmanship and skills of artisans. Besides, providing forward and backward support to the traditional artisans, courses are conducted to the interested persons in learning and sustaining the craftsmanship in various crafts.


Rosewood Work Carving

The corporation has established ‘Gurukula’, where Two Year Certificate Course is conducted in craftsmanship at Sagara in Shimoga District to sustain the traditional crafts like ‘wood carving’ and ‘stone carving’ by providing training to especially younger generation. Thus, the corporation is having the required wherewithal to conduct business to optimum level. In order to market the products made by the artisans across the state 11 retail sales outlets popularly known as ‘Cauvery’, Karnataka State Arts & Crafts Emporium at major cities such as Bangalore, Mysore, Mangalore, Hubli, Chennai, Secunderabad and New Delhi have been established.

www.cauveryhandicrafts.net

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LIFE AROUND ROSEWOOD INLAY

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osewood Inlay is a craft that is synonymous with Mysuru, which was brought into India from Persia, in the 18th century. The artisans had settled in Srirangapatna- under Tipu Sultan and Hyder Ali. Mysore Inlay woodwork flourished in India 300 years ago during the 17th Century. A few artisans were inlaying rosewood with carved pieces of ivory and deer horn to make exquisite articles of desire. The Wadiyars to whom the Mysore kingdom was restored by the British continued to encourage them. The artisans generally got inspired from local flora and fauna and from local tradition and included mostly geometric patterns. In the past, the artisans used to carve using deer horn, the wooden doors of the Dariya Daulat Baagh in Srirangapatna and the Amba villas palace in Mysore are the best examples of these. The first firm to mass produce the rosewood inlay work dates back to 1870 named Yousaf Ali and sons. It specialized in making caskets and wooden frames which were in high demand at that time. A study of the wooden inlay work by

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the Mysore based ‘Handicrafts marketing and service center’ points that the craft was reeling under crisis due to the lack of orders until a cigarette company reckoned to be promoting the elephant brand, placed bulk orders for marketing its products and this was when elephants first emerged in the wood inlays. In the early 1900s, Chamara jendra technical institute make experiments with the traditional inlay patterns and mythology was also in introduced alongside geometric patterns. Artisans Mir Showkat Ali is credited with introducing country side scenes into the craft, which boosted the popularity of the wood inlay works. The study report points out that from a mere 2 units that was their producing wood inlay works in the early 1940s, it increased to 65 in 1960s while their numbers peaked in the 1980s and 1990s with as many as 300 units manufacturing them.


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&

STORIES

LIVES

Some stories never end. They only end to start a new one to one another. So shall life go on to all verses.

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Rosewood Inlay is traditionally rooted into the history and lifestyle of Mysore. Not just feeding the artians but also people living in and around this craft cluster. From transporting the raw materials to productively using the leftovers of the craft contributes ways depend lives on this craft.

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in Scrap cluster: The other side of Karakushalnagar occupies a cluster in block 10 who works with the scrap tin and generates utensils. Mostly they make sieves and sell them in and around areas. Karakushalnagar consists not just rosewood inlay artisans but also these makers.

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arlands of wood shaving: One of the side of Karakushalnagar occupies a group of people depended on the remaining of the inlay artisans. The leftover wood is shaved and used to make garlands. They productively make use of the wastage.

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60 years old, Vijay is carving ‘Oms’ in wood since thirty years. His complete earning depends on these ‘Oms’. Neither he had any interest in learning inlay nor he had that energy to grasp new skill.

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anjunath, (man on the bike) is vendor of small wooden merchandise like those ‘Om’s of Vijay. He sells them to tourist places like outside St. Philomena’s Church and Mysore Palace.

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amamurthy, owner of a very old tea shop in Mandi Mohalla serves tea to about 300 artisans working in Mandi Mohalla three times a day. Sharing a cup of tea with them made Ramamurthy an imporatnt part of the artisans everyday lives.

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alma (women on the right) wife of Afthab (above) makes ‘beedi’ (cigarettes), they live in Karakushalnagar and work for the big Cigarette manufacturing companies on daily wages. 49


Amba Vilas Palace Jagmohan Palace St. Philomena’s Church Brindavan Garden Chamundi Hills Mysuru Zoo Devraja Market

Mysore

Places to Visit

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Outside of Mysore Palace (Amba Vilas palace)

Mysore Palace

(Amba Vilas Palace)

Mysore Palace is the focal point of meticulous planning of Mysore city. It exudes a grandeur that is unmatched and unparalleled. Designed by Henry Irwin, it was built on the ashes of the old wooden palace which caught fire during the wedding in the late 19th century. Every part of this palace, ranging from its Durbar Hall, the ornated pillars, the Kalyana Mantapa to the jewel encrusted Golden Throne make your eyes dazzle with astonishment. This attraction in Mysore also houses a Residential Museum. Visit it during late evening hours as it gets illuminated with 97,000 electric bulbs and shine in its royal purple garb. Camera and shoes are not allowed inside this Palace and need to be submitted at the gate.

Best Time to Visit: Morning, Afternoon, Evening Best Visited With: Group, Solo, Couple, Family Not Allowed Camera, Video (inside) Entry Fee: Adult : INR 40 Child (7 to 12 years of age) : INR 25 53


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St. Philomena’s Church

St. Philomena’s Church 56


Best Time to Visit Morning, Evening Best Visited With Group, Solo, Family Allowed Footwear, Camera, Video

The grandeur of St. Philomena’s Church leaves you spellbound. It is one of the tallest and grandest structures with Gothic architecture. The twin spires of this church are 175 feet in height and add an ethereal beauty to its facade. The floor structure of this revered place of worship is designed in the form of the cross. The long part of the cross is the Congregational Hall; the two arms are transepts and the altar, and the choir depicts the crossing. The stained glass windows, made in France, represents the birth Baptism, the last supper and crucifixion of Jesus Christ. The altar has a statue of the 3rd-century saint from Greece, St. Philomena. The holy mass is done here in Kannada, Tamil and English. It is one of the major landmarks to see in the city of Mysore.

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Jaganmohan Palace B

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uilt as an alternative retreat for the royal family in 1861, Jaganmohan Palace is a massive structure painted in pristine white. It is the most beautiful contribution to the city of Mysore by the kings of Wodeyars. The palace showcases Hindu style of architecture and comprises three storeys. Inner walls of this magnificent attraction in Mysore is painted with murals that depict the earliest known picture of Dasara festival. A family tree of Wodeyars can be seen gracing one of the walls. To the west of the main palace, Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery is located. It was created by Krishnaraja Wodeyar III to celebrate the marriage of his daughter. The main door of this gallery is a masterpiece that has intricate carvings. You can see numerous rare and original artefacts and paintings of Mysore and Tanjore styles here. Many musical instruments and sculptures are put on display along with an excellent collection of clocks.

Best Time to Visit Morning, Afternoon, Evening Best Visited With Group, Solo, Couple, Family Not Allowed Camera, Video Entry Fee Adult : INR 20 Child : INR 10 Timings: 1 0:00 AM - 5:00 PM


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Mysore Zoo Best Time to Visit Morning, Afternoon, Evening Facilities Food Stalls, Washrooms Best Visited With Group, Solo, Couple, Family Entry Fee Adult : INR 25 Child : INR 10 Camera Photo : INR 50 Video : INR 100 Closed On Tuesdays

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opularly known as Mysore Zoo, Sri Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens spread across 157 acres. It is one of the oldest and well-managed zoos of the country that houses a large collection of animals. You can see Tapir, Chimpanzee, Giraffe, Zebra, White Tiger and numerous other wildlife species. It is a great place to visit with kids. Karanji Lake lies on the eastern side of the zoo. It is home to more than 60 different species of birds. There is a park around this lake which has a giant aviary. You can walk through it to observe the birds from a closer distance. Children’s park and boating point are the major attraction of this place in Mysore. Sprawling grasslands and coffee shop near the park make it an ideal spot for family picnics.


Brindavan Gardens A Best Time to Visit Morning, Afternoon, Evening Facilities Food Stalls, Washrooms Best Visited With Group, Solo, Couple, Family Entry Fee Adult : INR 25 Child : INR 10 Camera Photo : INR 50 Video : INR 100 Closed On Tuesdays

celebrated beauty spot in Mysore, Brindavan Garden boasts of one of the most beautifully lade out terrace gardens in the world. Modeled on the Shalimar Gardens of Kashmir, this attraction in Mysore pull huge crowds throughout the year. The main gate of the garden is designed similar to the India Gate. From parterres, fountains to water chutes and lush green lawns, it brims with beauty and exude a sense of happiness. The perennial flower beds and cascading waterchannels are a sight to behold. Famous for its grandeur and a musical fountain, this garden extends over 60 acres of area and is divided into North and South Brindavan. A glass house with a collection of succulents and cacti is maintained to cater to the planting needs. For kids, there is a special Children’s Garden created. Visit this place in the evening to witness the magic of musical fountain emitting colourful lights. 63


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Inside Devraja Market , Flower market


Devraja Market F

or a visitor to this city, Devaraja market is an apt place to get a flavor of the local people’s ( Mysoreans, as they are called ) daily life. With more than 100 years of history, this market is well knitted into the heritage of Mysore. If you are new to the bazaars of India in general, do not miss Devaraja Market. This is a good sample of a traditional Indian market place that are colorful, noisy, vibrant and a tad chaotic.

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A Photographer’s Paradise Vibrant Devaraja Market in Mysore

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Inside Devraja Market (Man selling onions)

Mysore is one of the most flamboyant places in South India and an essential stop on any South Indian itinerary. Mysore is most famous for the majestic Mysore Palace, one of India’s most spectacular royal buildings, but there is much more to explore in Mysore, other highlights include ascending Chaumandi Hill and, when in Mysore. you cannot miss Devaraja Market This market is over 1oo years old and still vibrantly bustles with life, colour, noise and a good dose of chaos. Deva-

raja Market really is a feast for all the senses and a photographer’s paradise. Devaraja market is open from sunrise till about 8pm. You can just wander in and explore on your own but I went with goMowgli as part of my indepth Mysore Day Tour and learned alot more about the products on offer and the history of the market this way.


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Foothill Of Chamundi Hill (People worshiping)

Chamundi Hills C

hamundi Hills is the prime landmark of Mysore city, visible almost from anywhere in the city center. The hill has very close association with the founding of the city. In fact the very name of Mysore is associated with the hill. According to mythology this was the domain of the demon called Mahishasura ( the Buffalo Demon). The place was thus known as Mahishapura or Mahishuru , the land of Mahishasura. Chamundi Hills has an important place in the history of Mysore. The oldest temple in Mysore, the Mahabaleshwara temple is located atop the Chamundi Hills. So is the oldest inscription found in Mysore. That was roughly made around the 9th century AD. 69


Moving Around: F

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or short distances within the city use auto-rickshaws ( 3-wheeler taxi) or the city bus. Both are popular means of city transport. While the bus option is a lot cheaper, auto-rickshaws can take you to any place in the city at the convenience of a private transport. Booking a cab for the day is another popular option to explore the sites in and around the city. Usually cabs are hired for a full day through an agency or through the hotel's travel desk. Another fancy thing available in the city is the Tonga (horse cart). Mainly aimed at the tourists, Tongas are traditional way to explore the city, as it once was the main mode of transport in this city. You can find them near popular tourist hot spots like the palace, railway station etc. You can explore a great many parts of this city by walk. In fact heritage walk is an idea promoted to explore the landmarks in the city center. Some places like the market areas are better enjoyed by walk.


Cooperation Lodging Services, Opp. Jaganmohan Palace

Accommodations: B

eing a sought after tourism destination, Mysore has a vary large pool of accommodation ranging from the 5 star type to the budget class. Most of the hotels aimed at tourists are located around the bus stand area, especially the budget class and mid range accommodations. Apart from the bus stand locality, other hot spots of hotels are the JLB Road, which is at the south of the Mysore railway station, Gandhi Square area, which is 10 minutes walk from the Mysore palace, Harsha Road that faces the palace compound, Hunsur Road and Sayyaji Rao Road that originate from city center, to name a few. Being a heritage city, Mysore city has its fair share of heritage hotels too. These are erstwhile palaces and royal mansions

later converted into hotels without compromising the heritage character. The Lalitha Mahal (5 star), Hotel Metropole, Green Hotel etc are examples of heritage hotels in Mysore. In addition the city also has a few spa type resorts in its periphery like the Golden Landmark Resort on the way to Brindavan Gardens , the Windflower Spa and Resort at the base of Chamundi Hills. Mysore has a Youth Hostel part of the International Youth Hostel movement located in Gangothri Layout near the University of Mysore campus. Incidentally the first Indian chapter of the Youth Hostel Scheme was initiated in Mysore in 1949. 71


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Chamundeshwari Temple, Mysore Palace


Conclusion M

ysore, previously known as Mysuru, is the third largest and second most populated city of Karnataka. Situated right at the foot of Chamundi Hills, Mysore was once the capital of the Kingdom of Mysore. The rich cultural environment of Mysore has earned it the moniker of Cultural Capital of Karnataka. Mysore Dasara is celebrated with great pomp and grandeur for ten days and people from every corner of the globe visit this city during the festival. There are some notable heritage structures in

Mysore like the famous Mysore Palace and the Jaganmohana Palace. Other significant tourist spots in Mysore include Somanthapura, Karanji Lake & Park, Chamundi Hill, Brindavan Garden and Rail Museum. Mysore is also famed for its exceptional quality of Mysore Silk and a unique tradition of painting known as Mysore Painting. This city offers quite a few mouthwatering delicacies like the Mysore Pak and Mysore Masala Dosa.

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Glossary Gesso is the paste used in Mysore

KSRTC or the Karnataka State Road

painting that gives an embossed effect.

Transport Corporation is the state

Arabica Gum is the adhesive used to

owned road transportation company of

make the Gesso paste.

Karnataka.

Chekkae refers to the local term used for

Doodhi is white tinted wood.

measurement of wooden planks

Dhassi refers to thin stripes of acrylic

Colour Blocking is a technique in which

sheet.

a number of differently shaped solid

Ambari is an elephant trainer or the

colours are put together.

muhoot

Grain Lines are the altering regions

Champa is a chocolate brown shaded

of relatively darker and lighter wood

wood

resulting from the different growth

Lubber is a half white and brown tinted

parameters

wood

occuring

in

different

seasons. 3D Inlay is a variation developed in inlay where wooden motifs are embossed to give it a 3D effect.

Contact information of artisans

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Karakushalanagar

Mandi Mohalla

Mohan +91 9845176370

Adil Pashai +91 9945628739

Farooq +91 9663837860

Ali Khan +91 9448750733

Balasubramanium +91 9611471431

Mohammad Pasha +91 9845561650

Syed Ameer +91 9916027145

Nausha Ahmed +91 9845184966


References Craft documentation: Mysore Mane, 2014 Mysuru Mudre, 2015 Kaarigari, 2014 Web Pages: handicrafts.nic.in/ROI/rti1.htm dsource.in/resource/mysore_painting/index.html dsource.in/resource/mysore-rose-wood/process/process.html cauverycrafts.com/rosewood.php mysorehandicrafts.com mysore.nic.in census2011.co.in/city/452-mysore.html mysorepalace.gov.in devaraja-market-in-mysore-a-photo-essay/ http://mysore.ind.in/devaraja-market https://www.yatra.com/india-tourism/attractions-in-mysore https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/mysuru-mysore/attractions/chamundi-hill https://www.karnataka.com/mysore/ http://www.inmysore.com/mysore-city http://chamundeshwaritemple.in/

Credits Content: Spriha Chaudhary Guidance: Mr. CM Sanjeev Special Thanks to: Mr. Mahadev Information: Mr. Ashok (Owner of Arun Fine Arts)

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