Foraging with Fernando Stovell’s in Chobham has to be one of the most exciting restaurants in Surrey thanks to the visionary talent of chef co-owners, husband and wife Fernando and Kristy Stovell. Part of what makes their dishes so extraordinary are the natural, native ingredients that they forage from the countryside around them. Rich Lee joined them for a walk on the wild side to experience some of these astonishing flavours in their natural habitat…
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ernando Stovell hands me a sprig of something, a frilly white flower no bigger than a match head. I pinch it between my fingers, place it on my tongue and… nothing happens. Until about three seconds later when I’m hit by the most intense taste of onion. Full-bodied and sweet, it’s remarkable that such a bold flavour can come from the tiniest part of a plant. Fernando tells me it belongs to the allium family so I shouldn’t be surprised by its character. I’m surprised all the same. Next he passes me a small, bulbous leaf from an alpine plant, held between the ends of the long tweezers he keeps clasped to the breast of his chef’s jacket. Obediently, I pop the leaf in my mouth and crunch down. It has the crisp, watery freshness of cucumber and as Fernando assures me, blends extremely well with fish.
Over the next few minutes I sample Tree Spinach (tastes like spinach); the lemony tang of wild Sorrel; a cress-like plant they use for garnish called, somewhat obnoxiously, ‘mind your own business’ and an intensely peppery and floral herb called Stonecrop. All will find themselves on a plate in Stovell’s dining room in one form or another, whether lending the colour
Zealander Kristy opened Stovell’s (formerly the Cloche Hat) in Chobham, bringing together their fierce talent for progressive European cuisine and a love for natural, local ingredients. Since then they have overtaken many of the region’s most established restaurants, being named Best South East Restaurant in the Good Food Guide alongside many other accolades.
“OVER THE NEXT FEW MINUTES I SAMPLE
THE LEMONY TANG OF WILD SORREL AND PEPPERY AND FLORAL HERB CALLED of their flowers or their utterly unique flavours and textures to the Stovell’s already unique approach to food. An approach that has made them two of the most exciting chefs currently working in the South East, if not the UK. Fernando and Kristy Stovell first met at Westminster catering college, before working in famous London kitchens such as the Wellington, Cuckoo and a series of prestigious private clubs and clients. In 2012, the half-Mexican, halfEnglish Fernando and New
After two years spent making Stovell’s the success that it has become, Fernando and Kristy both appear tired but determined to continue taking their restaurant to the very top. When they do get to enjoy a welcome break – visiting the finest restaurants other countries have to offer for inspiration – their work is never far from their minds. Indeed, Fernando keeps a close eye on his kitchen via several webcams streamed to his iPhone. And while few chefs would complain when acclaim does