MILITARY DNA
Breitling’s role as the timepiece creator for pilots was cemented in 1952 with the development of the Navitimer ‘navigation computer’ that was able to handle all the calculations needed for a flight plan
March of Time
These days the military watch is more about style than tactical manoeuvres, and more ‘Fore!’ than Words RICHARD WEBB
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2015
‘Friend or Foe’.
My father served in the Devonshire Regiment of the British Army during WWII and, naturally enough, he bore many of the hallmarks of a military man. He gave me my first watch, a Timex, when I was 12 years old and I remember being taught to tell time in the unambiguous and concise method used by the military. He also told me watches should always be set five minutes fast, because being early meant you were always on time – a value that I have yet to successfully master. Many years later, I bought a Breitling Navitimer – the commemorative edition engraved with Spitfire MK IXs, P51 Mustangs, Yak 3s and others. And at a stroke, I was like a pilot in waiting. (However, it still didn’t always stop me from being late.) Soldiers were known to have worn watches since the Boer Wars of the late 19th century, and the utilitarian wristwatch has seen plenty of military and leisure action since. Today’s battalion of brilliant ‘military-style’ watches is also
perfect for braving the great outdoors. Their ruggedness lends itself to activities like trail running or surfing, but their simple elegance can also look polished with jacket and jeans for pre-dinner drinks at the pool. A perfect example of this is the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Military Type. This Swiss brand was created by a team of aircraft control specialists and designers, and their DNA is all over this watch. Hallmarks are readability, performance and precision. Large photoluminescent numbers on the dial are easy to read for those physically demanding ‘black-ops’ weekends. This fashionable yet functional timepiece is also water resistant up to 100m. Given most buyers of diving watches aren’t actually divers, it could be said Hublot’s Oceanographic EXO4000 is a tad overdesigned. This Neptune of deepdiving watches can handle the extreme pressure of being submerged to 4 000 metres thanks in part to its Grade 2 titanium screw-down back and a 6,5mmthick sapphire crystal. It’s packed with the most highly developed technologies available anywhere, so regardless of your diving credentials, it’s certainly a conversation starter. If you don’t intend to explore the ocean floor, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic still has some impeccable military credentials – Panerai has supplied diving watches to the Italian and Egyptian navies. Based on a classic 1956 design, it’s carbon-fire components are a first for the industry. The material produces a one-of-a-kind watch that is immediately identifiable as Panerai.
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MILITARY DNA
(Top to bottom) Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic; U-Boat Ultra-Rare Opera Nera; Hublot Oceanographic EXO4000
U-Boat continues the navy theme with the UltraRare series. My favourite is the Opera Nera, which is as desirable as it is dramatic. The original stainless steel case has undergone IPB treatment to transform the metal into a deadly black stealth hue. Black diamonds cover the dial and are also present on the cover bezel and case. Baguette-cut rubies represent the conventional numbering with extravagant detailing. It’s no surprise that U-Boat’s innovative design is known to attract the attention of celebrities. Finally, we return airside to another Breitling, which has continued its longstanding aeronautical tradition in their 1950s-inspired Chronoliner. Instantly recognisable by its huge 48mm scratch-resistant ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel, it features a star-shaped cut-out for easy handling, while white ceramic numerals on a black dial offer perfect readability in all conditions. Whether you set your watch five minutes early or not, all of these timepieces are stylish and, above all, fit for purpose and looking effortlessly slick – if not like a Navy Seal, certainly channelling something very Bond-like at the very least.
photography: hublot courtesy of World’s Finest Watch
Soldiers were known to have worn watches since the Boer Wars of the late 19th century.