Bhitar se bahar
CONTENTS Introduction Day 1 : Hello!! Jaipur Day 2 : Everything’s fine? Day 3 : You have a Good Taste Day 4 : What’s Cooking? Day 5 : Seem to like you! Day 6 : Have to Leave
Introduction Jaipur didn’t feel like just a trip to us. It was more about discovering the same city with different perspectives. It felt just the same , what it feels when we meet someone new. As we spent time wandering through the streets, we got to know more about it, even some facts, which are unknown to many people out there. And likewise, we eventually fell in love with the city. It didn’t at all feel like that we were meeting for the first time. On the contrary, Jaipur Literature Fest lighted up the city with all the torch-bearers of Literature. Our understanding of color theory was also tested, as we got to know many different shades and tints of the color, pink which again varied a lot from the one we had imagined before arriving to the pink city.
Hello!! Jaipur
The First Glance It was our first morning at Jaipur and we felt privileged to have rickshaw-driver like Salim who was more like a guide and seemed to play the role of ‘Krishna the Charioteer’ in the hindu epic ‘Mahabharata’. Paddling through the streets, he made us aware of many quick facts about the city along with a complete picturization of what the city is like. At a glance, we could count on the beauty of the place, people and their culture. He introduced us to some of the major gates of the city namely Ajmeri Gate, Sanganeri Gate and New Gate. There are a total of 7 gates spread across the city and all of them serve as a passage to the walled city. But, unlike the heritage gates of other cities, these gates seem to be newly built as they are painted every year to keep the colour alive. Each gate is unique and it’s name carries a hint of the location it is in.As our journey ended, it was time to bid goodbye to our fellow rickshaw-driver, who being so humble and helpful showed us some of the shortcut routes just in case we don’t face any problem while travelling.
When the rain welcomed us.
‘Mavat’ the rains which strike during winters, being a helping hand to crops.
A unique body of Jaipur Anokhi A self-sustainable body, using every single inch they produced was recycled. Besides, starting us as a textile house they have also tried their hands at organic farming, giving shelter to the artisans and providing them a healthy environment to live along with educational facilities.
‘Woh Anokhi Kahani’ The brand is named very appropriately as a unit like it is quite unique in terms of each and everything it does. It’s block prints and designs have a ‘anokhi’ taste of color which depicts Jaipur and it’s rich culture. At every stage of manufacturing there is a quality check done which mandatory and helps to stand out from all the competitor brands. Even the farm was having distinctive features where they developed an entire ecosystem for growing and producing organic products which again gets used up at the ‘Anokhi Café’ in the city itself. It also has a museum which tells the history, the success stories of the artisans and the products that gave them a breakthrough in the market. It actually started off as a poultry farming unit which then took up the textile as the staple product and made huge success at the industry and this is probably the reason why they still use the form of a rooster in their logo.
Everything’s fine?
Fix Lunch @ IICD Walking across the corridors of the institute, we got to know how truly they value craft and conserves it by weaving it into the curriculum. The flora and fauna of the campus adds more value to the subjects being taught. Their vision to bring life to languishing crafts of India and encourage research which is praiseworthy. It has a liveliness and soulful environment which brings everyone together for work. It became a sort of a meeting point for us and a spot for having lunch.
Meeting the original ‘Kaleen Bhaiya’ Jaipur Rugs
An initiative started by Mr. Nand Kishore Chaudhary
A brand that revolutionized the making of hand-crafted rugs by opting for B2C marketing approach thus, removing the middlemen involved so that the artisans and workers get their real worth along with other benefits.
‘Rug rug mein, Jaipur’ Venturing through the marketing and manufacturing unit of rugs we eventually got to know about the overall history of how it started from a man having simple vision of connecting with people who were abandoned by the society, and giving employment to them. Besides, giving inspiration his words also opened many new ways of thinking about how we can shape our career. To meet Mr. Nand Kishore Chaudhary, the man behind building up of Jaipur Rugs, was sort of a privilege for us and sharing our thoughts made us realize the equity he tries to bring in between artisan and the worker. As he said, “ Jaipur Rugs brings weaver’s art directly to homes and delivers not just a carpet but the blessings of a family” and that gave us a broader outlook in our own respective careers and how well we shape our ideas.
Taste ‘em Johri Bazaar
Sambar Fini It is one of the most famous sweets of Jaipur in which flour and sugar is used for the preparation. Firnis are made of pure ghee and water fetched from well, also anyone who can tell that the ghee was not used or fake is rewarded 101rs. This shows the guarantee of quality. It was started by Ajitmal Agrawal and continued by his wife.
Khoonteta Aloo ki Kachori Govind Narayan Khonteta started this shop in 1958. They are known for their Aloo ki Kachori. The shop opens at 10 but hits its peak from 2 pm to 6 pm. The kachoris are made mainly from white flour and mashed potatoes. It also includes a special masala that they make which makes them different from the others. The Aloo ki kachoris are made by only a few shops in Jaipur which makes this shop special. There is only one of Khonteta Namkeen in all of Jaipur.
Samrat Kachori Kachoris are by far the most famous food item which attracts tourist to Jaipur. There are inumerous kachrivala’s but each having a uniqueness in it. Here in Samrat the most unique thing is his chutney (both sweet and spicy). he told he would never share the recipe to anyone. Pyaz ki kachori is well renowned and people from far distances come to him. He also had developed much in branding senses where he now sells kachori on Swiggy and Zomato. Upgradation is the key which Samrat kachorivala believes, so he add on dishes to his menu and checks the quality of each item. His grandfather has started this shop which is now handled by him.
You have a Good Taste
Wandering through the Lanes Starting the day with a cup of tea at Johri Bazaar, we trailed around the streets of the city which seemed to have much of history left it for us to inculcate in our overall understanding of the place. Just walking through the streets, we captured a lot about the people , their everyday life and their culture. All the lanes are parallel and interconnected in such a way that if a person at all gets lost, he/she will find a way out of it. Each lane had a name of it’s own be it, Gopal Ji ka rasta or Haldiyon ka rasta and each lane formed a society with a specialty of it’s own in terms of the people and the religion they follow and their work habits. It seemed as if the monkeys were a part of the everyday life of the people and dwelled very well with the surroundings. Encountering the lip-smacking kachoris at Gopal ji ka Rasta, we couldn’t resist them and getting tired of the entire journey we needed something to get fuelled up. The way we started the journey, we ended the same way, with a cup of tea.
Taste ‘em Tirpoliya Bazaar
Mahaveer Bhojanalay Mahavir is a 120 year old shop selling various started by the owner’s grandfather. They specialize in making Aloo Pyaaz ki sabji. They also make roti from bejad, makke, gehu and bajra. And make other sabji as well like Matar paneer, Dal fry, Gatta masala, Kadhi, Mix sabji. The shop at 10 in the morning. They have 13 shops all across Jaipur. The entire family takes part in the business.
Murli Paanwala His shop works on an hierarchical basis where all the three generations work together at one place . They have a unit of 8 people standing on a small roadside stall. Everyone including the Chief minister to Hema Malini have tasted his paan and acclaimed him for the quality he caters. He has multiple varieties of pan and is increasing day by day with the increasing demands of their customers. The most prominent thing about him is the quality and the kind of products which he uses are truly genuine. He also gets offer for parties and weddings. People usually crave for the most well-known and all time favourite, ‘fire paan’ which makes a moment for one when they consume it.
Lassiwala Though there are several outlets in the name of Lassiwala but none of them are as good as Lassiwala since 1944 which is the original branch set up by Kishanlal Aggarwal located in MI road. Counted as one of the best shops in the city for lassi, many high profile celebs and bollywood actors have also visited the Lassiwala. According to the manager, the store is almost half sold by 1 pm. Made in front of customers, they claim to serve the drink in a kullad with the freshest of creams.
Gopal ji ke Paani ke Pataashe Its like every shop is named gopal when it comes to panipatashe(panipuri) in Jaipur. To identify which one is true is a difficult task but the one gopalji which was found he had the hierarchy of family having his father worked for the same, his younger brother also does the same business. The specialty of him was the Hing which he used in his panipuris. Also the SP.panipuri was worth trying having the cost of 10rs. Per piece but one is enough and could satisfy the taste buds along with stomach.
What’s cooking?
Lit it up
Jaipur Literature Fest Describes as ‘ the greatest literary show on Earth’, Jaipur literature Fest brings together a diverse mix of the world’s greatest writers, thinkers, humanitarians, politicians, sports personalities and other intellectuals all under one platform allowing us to engage in debate and dialogue
Hearing live to Gulzar and his daughter(Meghna Gulzar) was a moment we will never forget. Every year this festival brings zest and fresh air to the city which is in itself very cherishing. Attending the lectures, seminars, hanging out at the book stalls and having one on one conversations with the great speakers boosted us to work and connect with the literature.
Because we Are: A Portrait of My Father A book by Meghna Gulzar
Two of them I have so far come along, Who looked after just the sunshine to a flower, Couldn’t tell where the tree has spreaded the shade Where I lost myself upon to the sweetest and the most loving arms of the grand tree, I still always want that arms, Knowingly or unknowingly Helping me through the toughest part Where my heart speaks to the unknown words Of ‘thankfulness’ filled with ‘gratitude’ More than anything else The luckiest one: one call from inside and The reflection outside is seen. Do I call myself lucky enough To be a part of that shade or Embrace every moment of the company. - Savitri
Taste ‘em Chhoti Chaupad
Rawat Mishthan Bhandar It is solely known for it’s whole range of Kachoris especially the one made of onion, i.e., pyaaz ki kachori which is an all time favourite. The outlet claims to have "invented" these kachoris many years ago and they have become so famous that any visit to Jaipur is considered incomplete without Rawat's kachoris. There’s always a demand and rush at the outlet and it is probably beacause it is quite nearby the railway station and people passing by can’t certainly miss out on such a quintessential element of the Pink City. Though, they have a 2-storeyed outlet with whole range of products, but it is the Kachoris that bring people to their store.Rawat Mishtan Bhandar started selling these kachoris in Jaipur from 1972 and since then there has been no looking back. The kachoris are served from 6 a.m. right till 10 p.m.
Ishwar Gajak They have three branches in city itself. The process to make gajak is very different where first til seeds are roosted , mixed with jaggery and then tapped with a wooden hammer to make it flat. They still follow the age old process. Here two brothers have parted off and made their respective shops. Their branches are spreaded all the way to Jodhpur, banglore, surat, delhi. Its been 60-70 yrs since the shop has started. Started in 1953, By Narayanji Gajakwale, with a specialty in Rewri and Gajak. All Gajak are made on fully handmade, state-of-the-art machines. manufacturers, retailers, and exporters of Rewri, Gajak, Namkeens and other related products. Located in the city of Johari Bazar Jaipur, India.
Shankar Namkeen Located in Chaura-rasta, this shop is beleived to have set up in 1960 in the walled city is often known for it’s namkeens and mixtures of all kinds.Some of the more popular items are Khatta Meetha, Wafers, Bhujia, Laung Sev, Chivda and Dal Moth. The shop is named after the hindu god, ‘shiva’ or ‘shankar’ as the family which started the shop few decades ago was a core believer of Shankar and the evidence of it can be found in the original branch with a large frame of Lord Shiva being put up on th wall next to the current owner.
Seem to Like you
The Great walls of Jaipur A proof of grandeur and historical evidence for us and a wall to provide shelter and safety to the Rajputs and their beloved city, the Great walls of Jaipur stands strong, high on the cliffs in the Amer district, located in the outskirts of Jaipur. The three well-known forts namely Amer, Jaigarh and Nahargarh that made up the great wall are interconnected and locale to each other which provide a fascinating blend of hindu and muslim architecture.
‘Amber-sariya’ . Established in the 16th century during the reign of Raja Man Singh, the Amer(or Amber) fort, located in the Amer district is spread over an area of 4sq. kilometres. The Amer Fort was built in red sandstone and marble and the Maotha Lake adds a certain charm to the entire Fort. The structure has four different parts, each with a separate entrance. The main entry to the fort is through the 'Suraj Pol' or Sun Gate which opens up into the main courtyard. In spite of having other modes of transportation such as elephants and jeeps, we chose to climb up and explore the entire fort on our own. It took us about two-and-half hours to see what one has to see of the place, but two-and-half hours wasn’t enough for us to capture each and every corner of the architecture. We tried capturing almost all the major attractions of the fort, such as the Diwan-e-Khaas, Diwan-e-Aam, Ganesh pol, Jaleb Chowk, Sheesh Mahal, Bhool-Bhulaiyaa and Zenana Dyodhi, sparing some of the temples.
Bolo ‘Jai-Bhavani’ Walking up the tunnel or the secret passage we reached Jaigarh fort, but without any secret information as such. This is the route which is often preferred by the people who walk the entire structures as it is a kilometres short from the original route. The Jaigarh Fort is an opulent structure built in the early 18th century and is considered to be the empire's main cannon foundry and was also used as storage stronghold to store ammunition and other metal required for war. Originally built to protect the Amer Fort and the palace within the complex, the Jaigarh Fort is architecturally similar to the Amer Fort, and offers a panoramic view of the city of Jaipur. The fort houses the world's largest cannon on wheels. But, nowadays it serves as destination for many royal weddings and events other than tourism.
The Escape Subterranean passages that lead to Jaigarh fort from Amer fort or vice-versa. When a war came by, it is said that these passages served as secret paths for the royal family to move up to the more complex and safer Jaigarh fort.
Modern Artistry Designed by the famous architect Charles Correa, the Jawahar Kala Kendra was set up in 1993 by the Government to serve as a cultural hub and preserve the endangered arts and crafts of Rajasthan.Over the years, it got subjected to many changes. The entrance to JKK has turned into a performative space these days. It has a huge open air theatre that conducts various kinds of cultural performances. JKK houses one of India’s oldest and most famous cafe chains, The Indian Coffee House and we felt privileged to have an afternoon meal there before an interactive discussion with an artist-cum-Designer, Yunus Khimani who shared some of his insights on the way he thinks and deals with what design is in today’s context and taking inputs from us regarding Jaipur as a city.
Taste ‘em Kishan Pol Bazaar
Prajit Tikki Chhole The shop was established in 1981.He saarted with a wagon and then after some years upgraded to shop. Here Trilok kumar sharma and his son monendra kumar sharma both work collaboratively and run the business. The famous delicacies of him are tikka chole,dahi vade, dahi ke gujiya, pani ke patashe. He believed in nanda das ji maharaj and he has setup the shop after his sayings only. His son works full time at the shop only. The name prajit is given after his nephew’s name, co-incidentally he was born on the same day when shop was inaugurated. They were the first to start sooji panipuris. Here they make every single item without garlic and onion.
Mayur Tomato Soup It is a unique wagon in itself which changes its food items according to seasons. In winter he sells mouth smacking tomato soup, while in the summers different juices were sold. He only uses amul fresh cream. The uniqueness about his soup is that he adds lemon to it and uses fresh quality cream. His brothers have tried their hand on the same business but couldn’t succeed.
Ramchandra ki Kulfi It is 80 yrs. old shop. They have rabadi, kulfi, badam, kesar pista shake and many more. Kesar pista and rabadi kulfi are maximum sold. Ramchandra has dedicated 80 yrs. Of his life on this shop. Here three generations work have worked. Ramchandra has 4 sons each one of them having a different shop for various items like ladoos. They had their old shop at ajmeri gate, it’s been 19yrs. Since they have shifted here. The old wagon still exists where only kulfis are sold. Due to space restriction previously only kulfis were sold but now they sell shakes, juices, ice-creams of various items. Their shop is showcased many times in NDTV channel.
Have to leave
The Royal Archive Lor Besides calling Jaipur, ‘the pink city’ it can also be given the tag of ‘city of palaces’ which would fit perfectly with the kind of heritage and architecture it has. The forts and monuments have a big contribution in the rich cultural heritage of the city which stand erect depicting tales of chivalry and literary works of the legends and royals. The City Palace, Jantar Mantar and Hawa Mahal are considered to be the pioneers of this Royal Archives.
‘City toh Banti hain’
Located in the heart of the Pink City Jaipur, the City Palace was where the Maharaja reigned from. The palace was built between 1729 and 1732 AD by Sawai Jai Singh II. He ruled in Amer and planned and built the outer walls of the palace and later rulers added to the architecture of this palace. The architectural styles are largely based on a fusion of Rajput, Mughal and European styles. The recent heir of the royal family has been a Golf champion and noteworthy for some of his literary works. He has been recently crowned after his wedding and lives with his family in the City Palace itself. Though, we couldn’t visit that part of the palace but we were more than happy to see the other part, 'Chandra Mahal' which has been turned into a museum and is a home to unique handcrafted products, various uniforms of the rulers, arms and weapons and many more things pertaining to the royal heritage of the City Palace.
‘Janta ka Mantra’
Jantar Mantar is an astronomical observatory used to measure the distances and positions of celestial objects. Out of 5 which were built all over India, only two are left including one in Jaipur. Constructed by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who from a very young age was fascinated by the movement of the celestial objects and believed deeply in astrology, the evidence of which can be witnessed in the Rasivalaya section consisting of small structures with different zodiac signs. It consists of 19 large instruments each serving a very specific purpose. The most significant among these is the Samrat Yantra which is the largest sundial in the country. Though we couldn’t dive into the details of how the dials worked but atleast, we got a vague idea listening to the guides appointed by other people speaking loud enough for us to know about how it functioned and that it had an accuracy rate upto 2 seconds.
‘Hawaa Hawaii’
Situated at Badi Choupad, Pink City of Jaipur, Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 and is known for it’s iconic windows and honey-comb shaped structure built in such a way that allows breeze to blow through the palace all the time the very reason for which it is named so. It has 953 windows on the outside walls. Since, the Purdah system was strictly followed at that time, it was believed Rajput royal ladies should not be seen by strangers or appear in any public area. According to the myth, the Hawa Mahal was constructed in such a way that allowed the royal ladies to enjoy from every day street scenes without being seen the only reason behind it was the peep-hole size of the windows. Though it was difficult to adjust the entire structure within the frames of our camera from such a close distance but we did capture the rich heritage and the cultural importance of it.
Centre to all kinds of conversations Central Park As the name itself suggests, the location of this park is central to entire Jaipur and is considered to be one of the best hangout places of Jaipur. The park is spread over an area of 5 km in radius and is a retreat to every jogger and fitness freaks with a separate lane for them. It has an open air gym where people can workout for free. People of all age groups and all classes feel free to come to this place and often indulge in various kinds of activities and interactions. Besides all this, it also has the tallest national flag and some amazing artifacts carved out of stone which adds value to the place. Photographers and artists are likely to be found because of the lavish green fields and the natural ecosystem that serves as a home to many animals and birds.
Wandering through the Streets of Jaipur
Time to say, Goodbye! It becomes difficult to part ways once we get devoted to something or someone, and in our case it was Jaipur. But, anyways life has to move on and so did we. Our only motive to create this book is to make the viewer submerge into the bits and corner of the city and remind us of the wonderful memories we captured when we were on site. The pink peach color used as the background color resembles somewhat the color which is dominant more in Jaipur. The cover page was developed on the concept of color interaction where any two colors when divided equally in small fragments, interact together to form a new color vwhen viewed from a distance. Based on this, we took 2 colors for the cover page that closely resembled the color we had imagined before arriving to the place and on the next page again 2 colors that resembled the color we found there. Thus, what it seemed from outside, was not
the same as to what it seemed from insdide.
Photography and Illustrations : Savitri Shelat and Aritra Ghosh