FOOD FILES

SMALL BUT MIGHTY

Share the excitement with tapas for the table

BY ALISON BAILIN BATZ

Tapas, small and mostly savory dishes meant to be enjoyed as a snack or before a meal among friends and family, first originated in Spain. They were created when King Alfonso X was battling an illness and required small bites of food between sips of wine. Legend has it he requested wine be served with at least a bite of food to one and all, keeping those drinking on empty stomachs from getting sick. Over time, those small bites became more celebratory, and thus, modern tapas were born. As popular as ever, here are a few local interpretations.

Solomillo Moruno

Tapas Papas Frita

Any list of great tapas in Arizona must begin with Tapas Papas Frita, which has been serving small bites with a slice of history in Scottsdale since 1990. Solomillo means “sirloin” in Spanish, while moruno means “Moor.” This is a fitting name for the popular Andalucian meat shareable plate as the Moors ruled the Andalucia region for nearly 800 years. Served simply without pomp or circumstance, the dish is a beef tenderloin with a red adobe sauce made using peppers, paprika, vinegar and spices. $12. www.tapaspapafrita.com.

Basque Sa’ndwich Bites

Renata’s Hearth

The newly opened Renata’s Hearth at Arizona Biltmore, A Waldorf Astoria Resort elevates the childhood comfort classic grilled cheese by tranforming it into a mouthwatering take on a similar sandwich from the Basque region. Here it’s re-imagined with jamon iberico and manchego cheese, both from Spain, as well as truffle oil. Grilled peppers and polenta fries complement the dish, as does a dreamy romesco sauce made with peppers, tomatoes, olive oil and crushed marcona almonds. $15. www.renatashearth.com.

Tostones

The Canal Club

While a common staple in Latin American and Caribbean cuisines, tostones are sometimes hard to find locally. The twice-fried and salted slices of plantain, which is a member of the banana family without the distinctive flavor profile, are crispy and satisfying on their own. The Canal Club takes them to another level, however, by pairing them with a bacon-infused black bean puree dipping sauce topped with pico de gallo and cotija cheese crumbles. $12. www.thecanalclubaz.com.

Ceviche

CRUjiente Tacos

This classic Latin dish was first developed in Peru, but quickly gained popularity in Mexico, especially in beachside towns with access to fresh fish. The modern taqueria imports fresh white fish weekly for its zesty take on the traditional preparation. The fish is cubed and paired with shrimp. Together, they are marinated in a tart mixture of citrus juices – primarily with freshly squeezed lime juice. They are then tossed with spicy jalapenos, Fresno peppers, cilantro, and olive oil. $12. www.crutacos.com.

Crispy Pork & Cola Lime Glaze

The Mission

Both in Latin and Asian cultures, it is common to cook pork using cola. A play on this beloved technique, this dish contains juicy pork belly that has been braised in a sweet and spicy glaze made with cola, lime, spicy chiltepin peppers, and peanuts. The resulting sticky, sweet and savory carmelized bites are plated on iceberg lettuce and topped with pickled red onion. $15. www.themissionaz.com.

Papas Sucias

Vecina

The literal English translation of papas sucias is “dirty potatoes.” These addictive, crispy fingerlings are mixed with tender pork neck that has been smoked for hours in green chiles until it bascially falls apart. They are then topped with homeade tomatillo green salsa and a healthy smattering of melty Oaxaca cheese from Mexico. $14. www.vecinaphx.com.

Gambas al Ajillo

Talavera

The Spanish steakhouse presents its take on shrimp with garlic, which is what “gambas al ajillo” translates to in English. The dish starts with whole, headed prawns, which make for quite the visual when they come to the table. They are cooked in copious amounts of garlic; plated with a rich Peruvian sauce made from rocoto peppers; and garnished with cordiander-crusted lime as well as mudica, which is a mixture of seasonings and Noble Bread bread crumbs. $26. www.talaverarestaurant.com.

Ahi Tuna Tostada

SumoMaya

A showcase of the best in modern Mexican and Asian cuisines, the secret ingredient in this shareable starter is a dairy-free chipotle aioli. The creamy sauce is spooned onto individual homemade chips and topped with thinly sliced ahi. Each chip also has avocado, crispy fried leeks and microgreens piled high as well as a healthy drizzle of citrus-infused ponzu sauce. $18. www.sumomaya.com.

Chicken Pinchos

Mbar

Pinchos are the Latin American version of kebobs or skewers. These have a particularly unique flavor profile as they are not simply wood fired or barbquequed. Instead, they are marinaded in chermoula, a glaze common in Algerian, Libyan, Moroccan and Tunisian cuisines made with cumin, garlic, peppers, and herbs. There is also a filet pincho option for an added cost, paired with salsa verde and piquillo peppers. $7. www.omnimontelucia.com.

Timó Shellfish Trio

Timó Wine Bar

Though there are many tapas on the menu from which to choose, this offering ultimately wins diners’ hearts thanks to the deft combination of fresh seafood and shellfish with bright, vibrant, spicy flavors. Item one in the trio is sriracha shrimp paired with sauteed bell peppers and onions. The second part is diver scallops, which taste like a firmer version of buttery lobster. And finally, completing the trio is scallop ceviche with tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, cilantro, jalapenos, and avocado with sweet wonton strips, rosemary crackers and crostini on the side. $23. www.timowinebar.com.