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SPRING/SUMMER 2019
CHART A COURSE Map your own historyfilled adventure
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VIRGINIA BEACH PUBLIC NOTICE
IT’S YOUR RIGHT TO GO BEACHLESS! Virginia Beach Beachless Zones (No. 4721, 3-4-19) Virginia Beach would like to publicly announce
the Beachless Zones,
CHESAPEAKE BAY
it is your right to Go
our Beachless Zones
Beachless! regardless of
(No. 4721, 3-4-19) making it your right to Go Beachless! in Virginia Beach. While
ATLANTIC OCEAN
2
4 3
age and gender. In fact, it is the young—and young at heart—who may get the biggest
our beautiful beaches
thrill out of Going 1
continue to offer unforgettable escapes, we’re encouraging
Beachless! as has been
vacationers to lose their bathing suits—and expose themselves
witnessed everywhere
to all Virginia Beach has to offer.
from our aquarium to our aviation museum, skate
With the Beachless
GO BEACHLESS! ZONES
Zones, visitors who are
park, shops and parks.
open to discovering alternative lifestyle activities away from
GO BEACHLESS! ZONES (No. 4721, 3-4-19)
the beach may do so freely. Go Beachless! at our historic sites. Go Beachless! in our state parks. Go Beachless! on a hike. Go Beachless! in a kayak. Go Beachless! at an art gallery. Or at our museums. Go Beachless! at our breweries and wineries. At our restaurants. At a concert. Even the ballet. Feel as free as a bird exploring 500 square miles of unadulterated fun and adventure.
Virginia Beach has established ‘Go Beachless! Zones’ which are primarily comprised of the areas beyond the boundaries of the Oceanfront District, Chesapeake Bay District, and Sandbridge District, and include, but are not limited to, the surrounding vibrant districts that are such a unique part of Virginia Beach’s diverse community: The Pungo District, The Town Center District, The Inland District, and The ViBe Creative District.
Even if going beachless is not your thing, we invite you to get out of your comfort
Those who may find the Go Beachless! policy inappropriate,
zone—and out of your
and who prefer visitors keep their experience limited to the
bathing suit. With so
beach and bathing suit “on” activities, can have their voices
much to discover, you
heard by joining the Coalition For Virginia Beach Beaches
may soon find yourself
(C.F.V.B.B.). Learn more at GoBeachVB.com
a convert, making it second nature to Go
For those of you who would like to explore your adventurous
Beachless!
side and Go Beachless! in Virginia Beach, just visit
In accordance with
GoBeachless.com to see what you can discover inland.
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It happens here Chesterfield County Colonial Heights Dinwiddie County Hopewell Petersburg Prince George County
arts & ADVENTURE bbq & Brew History & hollywood RIVERS & RACING VINEYARDS & VIBE
Give us a call. we can help you plan your visit. 1-804-861-1666 www.Petersburgarea.org
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BEST SMALL CITIES IN THE U.S.
— Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards, 2018
1. Charleston, SC 2. Santa Fe, NM 3. Savannah, GA
4. Alexandria, VA 5. Sarasota, FL 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Sedona, AZ Monterey, CA Asheville, NC Greenville, SC Key West, FL
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Portland, ME Napa, CA Palm Springs, CA Newport, RI Santa Barbara, CA
Look who made the list! It turns out that one of the best travel destinations in the U.S. is just up the road. A nationally designated historic district founded in 1749, Old Town Alexandria hums with more than 200 independent restaurants and boutiques alongside intimate historic sites and museums. At the heart of it all is renowned King Street, a walkable mile that leads to the Potomac riverfront. And with Old Town just minutes away from both the National Mall and Mount Vernon, it’s the perfect weekend escape you’ve been looking for.
VisitAlexandriaVA.com
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Published by
PRESIDENT / PUBLISHER Richard Malkman EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Susan Winiecki CREATIVE DIRECTOR Justin Vaughan RVA TRAVELER EDITOR Tharon Giddens CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Chad Anderson, Jack Cooksey CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicole Cohen, Tina Eshleman, Jessica Ronky Haddad, Harry Kollatz Jr., Mandy Loy, Eileen Mellon, Genevelyn Steele, Martha Steger, Dina Weinstein, Samantha Willis, Megan Wilson CONTRIBUTING INTERN Mac Konrad
400 YEARS OF TRAVELS
V
FROM THE EDITOR Tharon Giddens
irginia marks some major milestones this year with the statewide 2019 Commemoration, American Evolution. The idea behind the event is to commemorate key events that occurred
in the Virginia colony in 1619 that continue to impact the state and the na-
tion. Those historic events include: the recruitment of larger numbers of women to the colony; the arrival of the first enslaved Africans to an English colony in North America, the first meeting of a representative legislature in the Americas, the nurturing of entrepreneurship and innovation, and the first celebration of a Thanksgiving in North America. A series of signature events is being staged as part of the commemoration. You can learn more at americanevolution2019.com. There’s also a roundup of some commemorative-related events on Page 64. We’ve taken the commemoration as a starting point for this issue of Traveler, as
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS Lauren Baldwin, Rachel Lee, Heather Palmateer
we explore sites that celebrate Virginia culture and history. We have grouped sites by
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Sarah Barton
Civil Rights, five destinations exploring African-American heritage, including Farmville,
PRODUCTION ARTIST Ross Allen
part of the landmark Brown vs. Board of Education Civil Rights suit in the 1950s; Flight,
SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Martha Hebert, Kelly McCauley PRODUCTION AND OPERATIONS MANAGER Scott Bunce CIRCULATION ASSISTANT & OFFICE COORDINATOR Kathy Emerson VICE PRESIDENT/CONTROLLER Elisa Malkman BOOKKEEPER Debbie Hedberg
theme: Culinary sites from Smithfield’s hams to apple orchards around Nelson County; where a teen-aged Barbara Johns led a strike of her fellow students that became a key with features on Wallops Island and other places in Virginia that have ties to aviation history; Military, sites honoring contributions of the armed services, from Yorktown to Arlington National Cemetery; Music heritage, from the Crooked Road’s country twang to the go-go beat of Washington; Women’s history, including a museum in Occoquan; and Sports, sites ranging from the National Sporting Library & Museum in Middleburg to the walking tour of the Virginia Sports Hall of Fame in Virginia Beach. There’s more than history to delve into at each destination, so we’ve also kept an eye open for opportunities to hike and bike, breweries and vineyards where you can enjoy an adult beverage or two, boutiques and stores to explore, springtime festivals and fetes, dining destinations and fine arts galleries to peruse, too. If you have a day trip or a weekend excursion in mind, Traveler can be a starting point for a 400-year journey of discovery.
EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES: 2201 W. Broad St., Suite 105 Richmond, Virginia 23220 TELEPHONE: 804-355-0111 MAIN FAX: 804-355-5442 EDITORIAL AND ART FAX: 804-355-8939 E-MAIL: editor@richmag.com
Richmond Magazine’s RVA Traveler, published annually, and Richmond magazine, published monthly, are products of Target Communications Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. 40TH YEAR TARGET
COMMUNICATIONS INC.
Table of Contents 8/ A TASTE OF THE STATE
40/ MAKING MUSIC
Five favorite excursions for food and fun
Destinations that hit the high notes
16/ CIVIL RIGHTS
48/ HISTORIC WOMEN
Explore Virginia’s African-American heritage
Historic women, from Native American queens to British royalty
24/ SOARING SITES Let your sense of adventure take flight
56/ SPORTING LIFE Sites celebrating the games we play
32/ IN SERVICE Four destinations honoring those who served
ON THE COVER: Kayaking on the Eastern Shore. Courtesy Chatham Vineyards.
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Come experience the New Portsmouth ~ for the History, or just for the Fun of it. Come stroll the walkway along our waterfront. Wend your way to our lightship museum, continue wandering and you’ll discover our huge Children’s Museum and our famous tree-lined streets shading homes more than 250 years old. Close by, too, are the most intriguing of shops and a truly sumptuous selection of chef-owned restaurants. All within one very walkable square mile.
For more details and information call 757.393.5111 | VisitPortsVa.com
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The Perfect Getaway… is Not so Far Away.
9/18/18 8:57 AM
History and romance meet where the Potomac River meets the Chesapeake Bay … come stay in one of our historic inns and enjoy days filled with secluded beaches, wine and heritage trails, quaint towns, and pristine nature. Plan YOUR perfect getaway at
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CULINARY
AFRICANAMERICAN
FLIGHT
MILITARY
MUSIC
WOMEN
SPORTS
VIRGINIA PALATE PLEASERS, FROM FINE WINES TO SMITHFIELD HAMS 10/ NORTHERN NECK 11/ EASTERN SHORE 12/ SMITHFIELD 13/ FAUQUIER COUNTY 14/ NELSON COUNTY Liz Watson Photography, courtesy Chatham Vineyards
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THE STATE OF FOOD
Oysters and wine tastings meet at Chatham Vineyards
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A TASTE OF THE NORTHERN NECK Find old favorites and new foodie destinations along the Chesapeake Bay / By Megan Wilson Chefs from around the world have made their home in Virginia’s Northern Neck. Some were born and raised here on the shores of the local waterways; they learned their craft from generations of watermen before them. Whether they’re transplants or fifthgeneration locals, they each blend their cultures and traditions together to honor and praise a tiny mollusk known as the oyster. Restaurants, museums and other hands-on experiences illuminate the history of the oyster here. With each slurp, a visit can bring you closer to the sands of time. Start by letting a waterman lead the way.
Shrimp and grits from Adrift
Go to the dogs The Dog and Oyster Vineyard in Irvington invites guests to of its grapevines, which are responsible for a list of awardwinning wines. Pair them with local oysters at the the vineyard’s Sip & Slurp stand. Keep an eye open for friendly dogs wandering
The Dog and Oyster Vineyard
the grounds. Owner Dudley Patteson, who also owns The Hope
Get schooled
them home to watch over his grapes.
For more of a foodie approach to your visit, reserve a spot during an Oyster Academy, which
What’s new
leaves from either The Tides Inn (tidesinn.com)
New foodie destinations in the area include
in Irvington, or the Urbanna Seafood Market &
Adrift (adriftva.com) in Whitestone and Dredge
Raw Bar (urbannarawbar.com) on Wednesdays,
Bar & Restaurant (dredgeirvingtonva.com)
Fridays and Saturdays in the fall. You’ll not only
in Irvington. Local Devin Rose opened Adrift
learn the waterways, you’ll also learn from a lo-
in 2018 and has received accolades from near
cal chef how to prepare oysters. Once you’re back on shore, settle into a room in a former elite boarding school at The Hope & Glory Inn (hopeandglory.com). The entire property in Irvington plays on this 1800 schoolhouse past. The spa is called Recess, the bar is named Detention and the farm-to-table restaurant is known as the Dining Hall. You can rest easy in your own cottage or stay in one of the rooms in the main house. When it’s time to eat, head down the road. Save the
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& Glory Inn, has rescued each one and brought
ADRIFT IN TIME Climb aboard a deadrise boat for a Watermen’s Heritage Tour (water mentours.com). Working watermen will serve as your guides to the Chesapeake Bay. They lead you to their favorite spots to enjoy the wildlife and bring home the catch of the day.
and far for its approachable, yet ever-changing seafood-heavy menu. Dredge opened in early 2019. Chef Brian Byrd gained a local following via his traveling food truck. He grew up in the area, learning about local oysters and seafood from his stepfather, who was a third-generation waterman. Byrd spent five years in Key West, where he learned to cook up fresh, creative seafood with a Caribbean spin. He’s bringing dishes like spicy soft shell crab tacos to a sitdown experience worthy of the flavor.
SECOND FRIDAYS: Colonial Beach stages an art walk from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on second Fridays, featuring works by local artists. Visit Colonial Beach Artists Guild on Facebook for details. facebook.com/ColonialBeachArtistsGuild
From top: courtesy Adrift; courtesy The Dog and Oyster Vineyard; courtesy Watermen’s Heritage Tours
take a trip through its giant corkscrews and into the midst
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PADDLES AND WINEGLASSES
front restaurant in town, offers excellent deck dining at lunch and dinner along with a dock bar. We caught Johnny Mo — otherwise known as the musical chef — strumming his guitar. There’s also
The Eastern Shore’s southern end has a charm of its own / By Martha Steger
a Mallards farther north on the peninsula, in Accomack. Walking the few blocks up to the town, founded in 1680, re-
My husband, Tom, and I have beaten a three-hour eastward path over the years from Richmond to the Eastern Shore’s seaside and bayside roads and attractions along U.S. Highway 13. Having taken a Barrier Island ecotour and explored the seaside village of Wachapreague, we opted for a combined kayak and wine-tasting trip — appropriately called “Paddle Your Glass Off.” Instructor-guides with SouthEast Expeditions (southeastexpeditions.com) are top-notch, boosting our sense of confidence and comfort after a brief paddling clinic at the wharf in the tiny bayside village of Bayford on the banks of Nassawadox Creek.
veals more good restaurants — try Janet’s Café for breakfast or Chatham Vineyards
lunch and Bizzotto’s Gallery-Café (bizzottosgallerycafe.com) for dinner.
Jammed with shops, galleries, historic buildings and churches — all within an easy walk — the town also features North Street Playhouse (northstreetplayhouse.org), staging live theater and other productions throughout the year.
Going to church The thrill for us in reaching Church Creek about 45 minutes later was the wildlife — small marsh crabs in the brackish water of salt-grass along creek banks and ospreys in treetops scanning for fish. After paddling onto the shores of Chatham Vineyards From top: Liz Watson Photography, courtesy Chatham Vineyards; courtesy Eastern Shore of Virginia Tourism Commission; courtesy Shockley Farms
(chathamvineyards.com) on the grounds of the Federalist-era Chatham home, we relaxed over the wine tasting (Church Creek Merlot was our favorite) and enjoyed a glass or two of wine at a table overlooking the vineyard before strolling back to the boats for our return paddle.
Mallards at the Wharf
Stay and play We spent the night at a bed-andbreakfast in the deep-water port town of Onancock, 40 miles north of Cape Charles on Highway 13. No one docking at the wharf need leave for a great seafood meal or adult beverage because Mallards at the Wharf (mallardsvamd.com), the only waterSave the
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HISTORY BY THE TRUCKLOAD There’s a rich history of truck farming on the Eastern Shore, production of vegetables and produce that made its way to serve major Northern markets. Farms and produce stands are still plentiful and bountiful. Located near Cape Charles, Shockley Farms (shockleyfarms.com) says it should have May peas and new redskin potatoes around the week of May 10. Besides fresh vegetables, their stand sells fresh strawberries, watermelon and cantaloupe in season.
MAY 4: Stops on the Eastern Shore of Virginia House and Garden Tour include Eyre Hall in Cheriton and five properties in Onancock. 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. esgardentours.com S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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HAM ON IT There’s plenty of Smithfield’s famous pork product to go around, but the town’s also rich in history / By Nicole Cohen
JJ, the shop dog, a rescue. All proceeds benefit the animals of Isle of Wight County.
History at every turn The Chinese Lunar New Year marks this the Year of the Pig, and there’s no better time to make a trip to Smithfield in Isle of Wight County. Visible on its water tower, the town’s motto — “ham, history & hospitality” — sums up what you’ll find here, but the streets are full of small-town charm, with residents who are eager to greet visitors and welcome them to their little corner of the world.
If you toss a ham in Smithf ield, chances are you’ll hit something historic. The oldest surviving church building
Taste of Smithfield
in the state, St. Luke’s Church (historicst lukes.org) dates to the mid-1600s and is available for public tours. The 1750 Isle of Wight Courthouse is an impressive representation of the Colonial court system. Historic Smithfield maintains ownership and completed a full restoration in 2015. The Isle of Wight County Museum (historic isleofwight.com) houses a replica of an early 1900s country store, including a recording of what it would be like to interact with the proprietors. And no visit would be complete without viewing the world’s oldest peanut, circa 1890, and the world’s oldest ham, circa 1902. If you can’t make it to the museum, check out the Ham Cam on the museum website.
Ham with that To get your pork fix, Taste of Smithfield (tasteof smithfield.com) is a must. The Scott’s Ham Biscuits are the perfect blend of sweet and savory; sweet potato biscuits with honey butter, country ham cutting board. The gift shop offers a selection of Smithfield ham, local peanuts and pig-shaped Arts Center @ 319
kitchen items.
What’s in store
Pigs and pups
Darden’s Country Store (dardenscountrystore.com) has been
The Visitor Center (genuinesmithfieldva.com/visitor-center)
in the Darden family since 1952 and sells hams smoked right
is a great place to get your bearings and to discover all the
on the Darden farm, as well as a selection of meats, peanuts,
area has to offer. It shares its space with the Arts Center @ 319
cheeses and other products sourced from the family farm and
(smithfieldarts.com), an art gallery and artists’ studios. Head out-
locally. Be sure to say “Hi” to Tommy and Dee Dee Darden, who
side along Main street, and there’s plenty of shopping, attractions
can be found manning the store.
and dining choices. Search for unique art dotting the town, including the Porcine Parade, eight life-size hog statues painted
STILL SERVING
with representations of Smithfield by local
Head to the Smithfield Inn (smithfieldinn.com) for fine dining in a Colonial-era setting. The building dates to 1752 and became an inn in 1759. George Washington even slept here. The seasonal dinner menu is heavy with seafood, including their famous crab cakes, and pork products. The drink menu includes curious Southern adult beverages, such as the Salty Southern Inn, which pairs Jack Daniels with Coke and peanuts.
artists, and the eight bronze statues created by George Lundeen, the largest collection of his statues in the country. A little farther down Main Street, the Gimme Shelter Thrift Shop (gimmeshelterofsmithfield.com), is full of fine antiques, hidden surprises and Save the
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JULY 13: The 117th birthday celebration for the world’s oldest ham will take place at the Isle of Wight County Museum, 103 Main St. Free, 10:30 a.m. to noon. 757-356-1223.
From top: Nicole Cohen; Todd Cairns, courtesy Smithfield & Isle of Wight CVB; Nicole Cohen
and molasses, served on an adorable pig-shaped
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(desertrosewinery.com) is a na-
Sky Meadows State Park
tionally recognized breeding and training facility of purebred and part-bred Arabian horses. If you prefer a wider variety of spirits, there are breweries, meaderies and even a kombucha bar tucked between hills and storefronts. MTO Kombucha (mtokombucha.com) offers free tastings of its 18 different flavors of the fermented drink, rich in probiotics.
Explore your roots If you came searching for your roots, several museums and libraries in the area can help. If you have a last name such as Fishback, Rector, Kemper or Hitt, your family may have made its way to America via Germantown, founded by German miners in Fauquier in the
TROT LINES
early 1700s. The Germanna Foundation (germanna.org) protects and shares some of this
Exploring Fauquier County’s equestrian and wine country / By Megan Wilson
history. The foundation maintains Salubria Manor, a Colonial-era home in
From top: courtesy Fauquier County; courtesy MTO Kombucha; courtesy Aspen Dale Winery
MTO Kombucha
For those of us who grew up in the northwestern hills of Virginia, a few images will always be a part of our highlight reel: sunsets peeking between grassy hills, a horse walking up to the fence looking for a nuzzle, and rolling lines of vines filled with grapes and tiny green leaves. Just far enough away from Washington, D.C., Fauquier County embodies this aesthetic. The county is BARN WITH a smooth blend of small-town charm, A PAST nature and sophistication.
Wine time Let the Fauquier Wine Trail (visitfauquier.com) guide you through the region. Twenty-six wineries and vineyards decorate the mountains, valleys and horse farms of the area. Some still bear marks and monuments of both the Revolutionary War and the Civil War. If your equestrian side is looking for more, the Desert Rose Ranch and Winery Save the
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Aspen Dale Winery in Delaplane has a 200-year old barn for a tasting room that opens up to the countryside. The 50-acre winery welcomes kids and adults to feed its miniature horses and goats. There’s also an 18th-century manor house on its grounds. aspendalewinery.com.
Stevensville; the Fort Germanna Visitors Center, with a museum and memorial
garden in Locust Grove; and Siegen Forest, a 170-acre preserve on the Rapidan River with trails at the visitors center.
Battle lines and trails If you’re more interested in the history of America, trace the landscape of 12 Civil War battlefields that speckle the area. The Battle of Brandy Station, for example, was the site of the Civil War’s largest cavalry battle, where 9,500 Confederate and 8,000 Union horsemen clashed on June 9, 1863. The Fauquier website (visitfauquier.com) has each of these battles mapped out and explained. Get in touch with your natural roots by taking your exploration into the woods along the Appalachian Trail, which you can access from Sky Meadows State Park and the G.R. Thompson Wildlife Management Area. Both locations are easy to reach and serve as gateways to Virginia’s 544-mile portion of the trail, more than any other state.
AUG. 28-SEPT. 1: The Warrenton Horse Show features five days of competition, classes and exhibits. Riders compete for prizes in jumping, breeding and showing. Free Wednesday–Thursday. $5 Friday–Sunday. warrentonhorseshow.com S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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Eastern pleasures Crabtree Falls
Lake Monocan Park is a public, 20acre recreation area with lifeguards staffed Memorial Day through Labor Day. The lake, stocked with canoes and kayaks, abuts a sandy beach. Saturdays, the park is exclusive to Wintergreen guests, which also extends gratis weekday passes. A bike path around the lake, fishing poles and horseshoe pits add even more vintage appeal to the natural Nelson County setting. Explore the east side of the Blue Ridge Mountains via the Nelson Scenic Loop (nelsonscenicloop.com), an hourlong drive that includes Crabtree Falls, various trails and breathtaking overlooks. The Rockfish Valley Foundation’s Natural History Center on Route 151 (nelson151.com) in Wintergreen makes
OUR SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS
Wintergreen Resort
an ideal launching point. In one direction, hike the falls; in the other, call on six wineries, three breweries, two cideries and Silverback Distillery (sbdistillery.com), plus miles of eateries and farm stands.
Nellysford and Wintergreen Free-range until noon at the Saturday Farm-
Find falls, fun and food on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge
ers Market in Nellysford, a covered market with folk musicians, artisans and farm-fresh produce, near Basic Necessities (basic
/ By Genevelyn Steele
necessities.us), a gourmet cafe and wine shop. ’Cue hounds should seek out the
Save the
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succulent, smoked pork at Blue Ridge Pig, which pairs perfectly with a pint of cider. The posh tasting room at Bold Rock (boldrock. Saunders Brothers
com) extends one of the more luxurious options. The cidery partners with Wintergreen Resort (wintergreenresort.com) for transportation to and from. Wintergreen, which
THE FRUIT LOOP Taste a bit of history along the Blue Ridge Fruit Loop (blueridge fruitloop.net), which links orchards and berry farms in Nelson and Amherst counties. Seaman’s, Dickie Brothers and Fitzgerald’s orchards are located on Route 56, as is Saunders Brothers, which is known for its homemade ice cream.
opened in 1975, is an all-season lodge that offers a staggering number of activities, including skiing and snowboarding.
Falling water In the other direction, The Crabtree Falls Highway, Route 56 east, wanders to the historic Tye River. The Tye spawned a milling industry that was wiped out by Hurricane Camille in 1969. It is the region’s main waterway, with lovely pools and the highest falls east of the Mississippi — Crabtree Falls — which was carved by its streams.
MAY 17-18: Take a wildflower walk or take in a wildflower lecture, demonstration or workshop at the Spring Wildflower Symposium, held by The Nature Foundation at Wintergreen. nelsoncounty.com, twnf.org
From top: Getty Images; courtesy WIntergreen Resort; courtesy Saunders Brothers
Fans of Amazon’s “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel,” bewitched by midcentury, lo-fi New York stylings, feasted their eyes in Season 2 on bosky Catskill walks and lake swimming in the Borscht Belt, served up with fresh-squeezed tomato juice at the fictitious Steiner Resort. After Googling the filming location and discovering that it’s an operating inn, my first thought was to book a room — until it occurred to me how similar the mountainous Lake Monocan near Wintergreen Resort is to the Maisels’ summer getaway. And how much the porch and replica interiors of the close-by Walton Museum (waltonmuseum.org) resemble the Maisels’ summer quarters. Nelson County is whole lot closer to Richmond, and within range of dozens of outdoor activities.
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To the east and west are bustling cities, but in between is pure bliss. Beauty that will take your breath away and stories of bravery that will leave you speechless.
Peaks of Otter
———— Where Ordinary Ends... ————
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THE AFRICANAMERICAN EXPERIENCE
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CULINARY
AFRICANAMERICAN
FLIGHT
MILITARY
MUSIC
WOMEN
SPORTS
CELEBRATIONS AND EXPLORATIONS OF VIRGINIA’S AFRICANAMERICAN HERITAGE 18/ ANNAPOLIS 19/ HAMPTON 20/ MIDDLE PENINSULA 21/ FARMVILLE 22/ MONTICELLO,
MONTPELIER Photo courtesy Visit Farmville Robert Russa Moton Museum, Farmville
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City Dock
down, because the journey can be just as rewarding as the destination. Local shops including The Annapolis Pottery (annapolispottery.com), Evergreen Antiques and True Vintage, and Lilac Bijoux (lilacbijoux. com) are worth a stop, and Mills Fine Wines and Spirits (millswine. com) offers a lesson in the Annapolis craft beer scene, along with a worldly wine selection. Stop in Federal House (federal houserestaurant.com) for oysters and she crab soup, a rich, creamy concoction filled with chunks of lump crab meat. At Middleton Tavern (middletontavern.com) — a 50-year-old local institution — the winning setup includes a patio seat with a water view. Try an oyster shooter (or two) served with their house-made hot sauce, as well as a plump, no-filler crab cake sandwich.
A DOCK AND THE BAY
City Dock, the heart of historic Annapolis, calls for visitors to grab a seat near the water, throw on shades, relax and sailboat-watch. Afterward, hop aboard a water taxi — efficient and affordable, with most fares ranging from $3 United States Naval Academy
to $8 per person, they allow riders to truly embrace
Annapolis, Maryland, may get overshadowed by its larger neighbors Washington and Baltimore, but this harbor city is well worth a visit. Blending history, a thriving art scene, and bountiful seafood restaurants that embraces the Chesapeake Bay, Maryland’s capital city is a sensational weekend escape.
the harbor lifestyle. A quick trip to Eastport opens up the doors for a dinner on “Restaurant Row,” where Chart House (chart-house.com), a former historic boathouse, takes scenic seafood-based fine dining
In the Navy Start with a visit to the United States Naval Academy and its
Paint the city
sprawling, picturesque grounds featuring Beaux Arts-style struc-
Don’t forget to check out the
tures. You’ll see sailboats cruise along the water and flags of the
arts district (annapolisarts
U.S. Navy and some captured from enemies flying in the ubiqui-
district.org), which hosts First
tous breeze. For a lesson in maritime history, stop in Preble Hall
Sunday Arts Festival from May
and visit the U.S. Naval Academy Museum (usna.edu/museum).
through November, with more
Shopping and dining
than 130 local vendors. While walking around, keep an eye
Head down Duke of Gloucester Street (downtownannapolis.org)
out for the West Street Chicks,
and join the easygoing bustle of downtown. The sun reflecting
chicken sculptures created by
on the bright blue bay in the distance may be enticing, but slow
local artists.
Save the
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up a notch.
BACK IN TIME Annapolis is home to The Banneker-Douglass Museum (bdmuseum. maryland.gov), which celebrates the state’s African-American heritage. It’s named for scientist and mathematician Benjamin Banneker and social crusader Frederick Douglass. Entry to this Victorian-Gothic former church is free (donations encouraged).
MAY 29-SEPT. 18: Dinner Under the Stars fills West Street with café tables where you can get food from participating restaurants, and there’s music and dancing, too, from 6 to 10 p.m. on Wednesdays. dinnerunderthestars.org
Courtesy Visit Annapolis
Waterside pleasures abound around Annapolis / By Eileen Mellon
The city’s center
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STRIPS OF SAND
seaside haven in 1897, the Bay Shore Hotel. What began as a four-room vacation cottage set about 300
Bay-front beaches and history in Hampton / By Samantha Willis
yards away f rom Buckroe Beach developed into a 70room resort replete with its own dance hall, fishing pier Hampton History Museum
and amusement park. Bay Shore Beach reigned as a top vacation destination for AfricanAmericans nationwide, drawing celebrity guests including “Godfather of Soul” James Brown and legendary comedian Redd Foxx. Though the Bay Shore Beach resort is long gone, its story lives on in the Hampton History Museum (hamptonhistorymuseum. org), which welcomes guests daily, except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.
Fort Monroe Another can’t-miss exhibit at the history museum is “1619: Arrival of the First Africans,” which commemorates and examines the arrival of the first Africans in VirBuckroe Beach
ginia, who entered the New World through Hampton’s Point Comfort (today known as Fort Monroe) 400
Hampton Convention & Visitor Bureau; bottom: courtesy Hampton University
Miles of sandy beaches with a view also come with a side of history around Hampton.
Buckroe Beach At just under a mile long and overlooking the Chesapeake Bay, Buckroe Beach (hampton.gov) is a pristine pick for a family beach day, or for couples seeking a romantic spot where they can soak up the sun. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, the beach has lifeguards in season from Memorial Day through Labor Day to keep an eye on swimmers. For those seeking more action, kayaks, paddleboards and personal watercrafts are available to rent. A fishing pier, food trucks, picnic tables, a
DEEP ROOTS Hampton University was founded in 1868, but this historically black college and university traces its roots to 1861, when Mary Peake, a free AfricanAmerican, taught a class of former slaves under an oak tree on what became the university campus. The tree still stands and is known as the Emancipation Oak. hamptonu.edu
years ago. The fort, built in 1834, is now a historic site surrounded by public beaches (fortmonroe.org). Learn more of its history at the fort’s Casemate Museum, which is free to tour.
Dining If you’re hungry after all of that history, pick your pleasure at any of downtown Hampton’s dozens of restaurants, which offer an array of cuisines and plenty of fresh sea-
playground and an entertainment pavilion all set the stage
food. Enjoy Sunday brunch from 10
for fun in the sun.
a.m. to 2 p.m. at Venture Kitchen
Bay Shore Beach
and Bar (venturekitchenandbar. com), ranked high on Hampton’s
As in most of the South, Jim Crow-era laws segregated Hamp-
Top Ten Restaurants list by TripAd-
ton, shutting its black residents out of recreation at Buckroe
visor travelers touting its treats
Beach. In response, eight African-American community lead-
such as smoked salmon benedict
ers and entrepreneurs banded together to create their own
and brioche donuts.
Save the
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MAY 31-JUNE 2: The Bodacious Bazaar, Hampton Roads Convention Center. More than 250 artisans, crafters and vendors. Visit bodaciousbazaar.com for information and tickets. S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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WHERE THE RIVERS RUN
Tour de Chesapeake, Mathews County
The Middle Peninsula’s vistas and stories reward visitors / By Harry Kollatz Jr.
Virginia’s Middle Peninsula contains some of the commonwealth’s oldest histories, from the museums of the people who’ve been here 15,000 years, the Mattaponi and Pamunkey tribes (pamunkey. org), in West Point and King William, respectively, to the water-faring people as presented at the Deltaville Maritime Museum and Holly Point Nature Park.
On the water The Deltaville exhibits tell the story of the people for whom the rivers, inlets and islands of the Chesapeake Bay are home and livelihood, from working (deltavillemuseum.com) features assorted pond boats and a recreated boatwright workshop. Enjoy the elegant lines and curves of these
Magnificent ruins
handmade craft. Here, too, is the Explorer, recreated and sailed in 2006 to honor the
In Gloucester County, the Rosewell Foundation
shallop captained by John Smith in his 140
(rosewell.org) preserves the ruins of one of Virginia’s
day, 1,700 mile exploration of the Chesa-
great structures, built about 1720 with 3 million bricks
peake waterways in 1608. Docked nearby is
in 46 different styles and 20 fireplaces. The estate’s
a log deck freighter, the F.D. Crockett, (call
name is derived from a spring with a jet “the size of a
ahead to make sure she’s in port).
man’s arm that ‘rose well.’ ” The ruins stand as mute testimony to the plantation
Bikes by the bay
life dependent upon the cultivation of tobacco and the en-
Rosewell
slaved — at the height, some 160 people. Rosewell was the
On Sat., May 18, the County of Mathews, the Mathews Land Conservancy and its visitors center holds the
largest private home in Colonial North America, bigger than the
21st Tour de Chesapeake cycling event (tourdechesapeake.
Governor’s Palace in Williamsburg.
org). Stop into the Mathews County Visitor Information Center
It passed through families, cycles of construction and disrepair
(visitmathews.com), in the former Sibley’s General Store, where
until a 1916 fire, ignited by an upstairs hearth mishap, consumed the
you can receive an introduction in the Discover Chesapeake Bay exhibit, and arrange kayaking and boating tours. Directly behind it is the preserved Thomas James Store, circa 1810-15. Save the
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mansion. The blaze Robert Russa Moton
HISTORIC HOME In Gloucester is Holly Knoll, the home of Robert Russa Moton, who retired there as president of Tuskegee Institute and continued to meet with black and white leaders about civil rights issues. That tradition is carried on today by the Gloucester Institute (gloucesterinstitute.org), which seeks to train tomorrow’s leaders through workshops and programs.
burned for two weeks. The foundation seeks to preserve and interpret the property. Its goal is to raise $3 million for its work by 2025, the structure’s 300th anniversary.
JUNE 1-2: Arts In The Middle Fine Arts Festival, Hewick Plantation, Urbanna. A juried art show and entertainment on the grounds of an 18th century plantation. artsinthemiddle.com
From top: Mathews County Visitor Information Center; courtesy Rosewell Foundation; Wikimedia Commons
the waters to the summertime hotels. The museum
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A LEGACY OF HOPE
Robert Mussa Moton Museum
Farmville’s Moton Museum preserves a key moment in civil rights history / By Dina Weinstein
son. “It’s attractive to folks to visit and learn about the events that impacted the nation. The story is so relevant today because here is an example of young citizens using tools of the Constitution
At the Robert Russa Moton Museum in Farmville (motonmuseum.org), visitors can imagine it’s the winter of 1951 and that they are shivering with the students in an overcrowded classroom in a largerthan-life exhibition that shows a bit of what is was like when this building housed Farmville’s all-black high school in the era of segregation.
Wall-size images and a pot-belly
and democracy to bring about change. That’s an idea to give to young students, that you can have a voice.” Expect increased visitor engagement from a $162,000 federal grant meant to help Virginia students engage with the museum’s materials. Drop-in visitors will see more public programming and engagement from docents.
Food and fine art Farmville has the upbeat feel of a college town with Longwood
High Bridge Trail State Park
University in the center and Hampden-Sydney College on the outskirts. Take in the photography and paintings at the Long-
stove in one of the classrooms-
wood Center for the Visual Arts (lcva.longwood.edu).
turned galleries tell the story of the students’ fight for equal edu-
Downtown, browse the boutiques for treasures, and people
cation and approximate school
watch at cafes. Green Front Furniture (greenfront.com) is an
conditions during segregation.
iconic stop. For a weekend getaway, consider the renovated, boutique Hotel Weyanoke (hotelweyanoke.com), featuring
Visit Farmville; bottom: National Archives
The museum is named for Virginia-born educator and activ-
Midcentury modern furniture. The hip rooftop bar offers pan-
ist Robert Russa Moton, a president
oramic downtown views in a chic atmosphere, and inside, there’s
of the Tuskegee Institute. The nonprofit
a wine bar and pizza restaurant. For exceptional barbeque, try
tells the story of Barbara Johns, who was just 16 years old when
The Fishin’ Pig (fishinpig.com), close to Hampden-Sidney college.
she led her fellow students on a strike in 1951, an action that
Air out your brain and exercise your body with a walk or
eventually produced three-fourths of the plaintiffs in the 1954
bike ride at High Bridge Trail State Park, a 31-mile crushed
landmark U.S. Supreme Court case Brown vs. Board of Education
limestone trail that follows an old railroad bed and passes
of Topeka, which ruled racial segregation in educational settings
through Farmville.
illegal. Visitors can learn about the outcome and local impact as well. Opposition to integrating public schools in Farmville moved the white leadership to shut down the public schools entirely for five years, until 1964, stealing money from the public funds for a whitesonly private academy. Each gallery has a policy focus. “The museum is a community anchor and a national treasure,” says its managing director, Cameron PatterSave the
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R. R. Moton High School, 1950s
BACK IN TIME The Moton Museum in Farmville is part of the U.S. Civil Rights Trail (civilrightstrail. com), and also the self-guided Civil Rights in Education Heritage Trail (vacrossroads. com) to dozens of sites across Southern Virginia that tell volumes.
MAY 4: Heart of Virginia Festival. This event includes arts, crafts, vendors, food and entertainment. It begins with a 10K run and a 5K walk at 8:30 a.m., vendors at 9 a.m. and events at Riverside Park begin at 4:30 p.m. heartofvirginia.org S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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RE-LIVING HISTORY
Monticello
The lives of enslaved people are explored at presidential estates Monticello and Montpelier / By Samantha Willis
A winding road leads the way to Monticello, the mountaintop plantation of America’s third president, Thomas Jefferson. Ensconced in the Blue Ridge Mountains’ foothills, the estate is about an hour’s drive west of Richmond.
Sally Hemings Work began on the manor in 1769. Jefferson designed Monticello (monticello. org) himself, describing it as “my essay in architecture,” according to the Thomas Jefferson Foundation,
Montpelier
the organization that has owned the property since 1923. In ad-
The estate of another founding father, James Madison, the
dition to offering visitors tours of the mansion, its grounds and
fourth president and a primary force behind the Constitution,
gardens, Monticello’s newest exhibition adds context to the life
lies a half-hour north of Monticello. At Montpelier (montpelier.
of one of the most famous women in American
org), the exhibit “The Mere Distinction of Color” looks at the
history: Sally Hemings.
paradox of how slavery continued even as the founders
“The Life of Sally Hemings” is a multi-
laid the framework for a democracy. It is included in regular admission to the plantation.
the life of Hemings, who bore at least six
Beyond the exhibits and the many guided tours
children by Jefferson. In the small room
that are offered, visitors may glean a deeper under-
where Hemings lived with her children,
standing of Madison, his family and home through
the words of her son Madison Hemings
one of Montpelier’s hands-on expeditions. Described
are cast in a video projection. Those words
as “5-day, immersive programs where participants
plus physical objects (including a dress
work side-by-side with professional archaeologists to
form) bring Hemings to life and center her as a critical component of Monticello’s — and the
discover and recreate the Madison plantation,” MontpeMontpelier
nation’s — history.
lier’s expeditions allow participants to live on-site and get their hands dirty digging for artifacts or learning how to
A renewed effort to examine the lives of the 607 people enslaved at Monticello in Jefferson’s lifetime — including the
catalog historic materials with museum professionals. Living history, indeed.
groundbreaking “Getting Word” project, which has reunited hundreds of their descendants — is apparent at Monticello, making it a worthy destination for history buffs, educators and families. Visitors may also pick up heirloom vegetable seeds, food gifts, homewares and more at The Shop at Monticello (monticelloshop.org). Daily tours are available yearround; ticket costs vary. Save the
DATE 22
ROOM TO GROW Thomas Jefferson’s original plans for Monticello called for a 14-room structure, but it was expanded to 43 rooms. Work began in 1769 and was mostly done by 1784. The mansion was remodeled and enlarged beginning in 1796, with work completed in 1809.
MAY 4-5: The Orange Uncorked Wine Festival brings 20 wineries, crafts and artisans, food trucks, and music to The Market at Grelen, 15091 Yager Road, Somerset, 4.5 miles southwest of Montpelier. orangevachamber.com
Thomas Jefferson Foundation; middle: courtesy James Madison’s Montpelier
media exhibition that delves deep into
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CULINARY
AFRICANAMERICAN
FLIGHT
MILITARY
MUSIC
WOMEN
SPORTS
AVIATION ATTRACTIONS FROM FIRST FLIGHTS TO THE STARS 26/ OBX 27/ ROANOKE AND SALEM 28/ STAFFORD COUNTY/
FREDERICKSBURG 29/ NEWPORT NEWS
Photo by Bill Ingalls, courtesy NASA
24
photo credit
30/ EASTERN SHORE
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photo credit
VIRGINIA IS FOR LAUNCHERS
Wallops Island
S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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Cape Hatteras Lighthouse
TAKE FLIGHT AND DIVE DEEP The Outer Banks’ place in aviation history is just one reason to visit / By Megan Wilson
Those same winds carried the Wright brothers into the history
Eats and treats
books in 1903. Their first flight lasted only 12 seconds, but more
Many restaurants have blos-
than 100 years later, the world is airborne thanks to the breezes
somed in the Outer Banks as
of this beach-heavy outpost. The magic of those first seconds
expat chefs and entrepreneurs
and the many flights that followed are sanctified and animated
set an anchor here. Kenneth and
in the newly reopened Wright Brothers National Memorial
Melissa Hyman met in RVA in 1994
Visitor Center (nps.gov/wrbr) in Kitty Hawk.
and moved to the Outer Banks in 2003
After 100 years, more than just the shores and a tribute to
to open a wine store. Years later, they
the first flight shape the barrier islands known
joined with couple John
fondly by most as OBX. Nature, culinary gems
and Jennifer Minnich to add beer, cheese and a
and lighthouses also invite people to make the
bistro to the experience. OBX Trio Wine, Beer
drive to the area.
& Cheese (triowinebeercheese.com) features a gourmet wine, beer and cheese shop and an
Dunes and a lighthouse
inventive brunch and bistro menu served along-
The same winds that helped the Wright brothers
side a wine bar and taphouse. You can find live
float into history morph and reshape the tallest
music here during any season.
and largest natural sand dune system in the Eastern United States at Jockey’s Ridge State Park (jockeysridgestatepark.com) in Nags Head. The 462-acre park charms adrenaline junkies and nature lovers alike with activities such as hang gliding, kite flying and hiking. The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in Buxton (nps.gov/caha) offers a challenging climb to the top (210 feet). The lighthouse opens up to enchanting views of the shifting sandbars known as the Diamond Shoals. Save the
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OBX Trio Wine, Beer & Cheese
IN FLIGHT A full-scale reproduction of the Wright Flyer, the craft created by Orville and Wilbur, is part of the reworked and renovated Wright Brothers National Memorial Visitor Center. It reopened in October 2018 after nearly two years of work. nps.gov/wrbr
Other culinary landmarks recommended by locals include: The Salt Box Cafe (thesaltbox cafe.com) for brunch on a quiet covered patio; Coastal Provisions (coastalprovisionsmarket. com) for fresh oysters and other prepared foods; and the Life Saving Station restaurant, where you can watch the sunset over a high-end Southern-inspired meal. On the way out of town, pop into Greentail’s Seafood (greentailsobx.com) for a light, casual bite like a poke bowl or soft shell crab sandwich.
MAY 15-18: Bluegrass Island Festival headliners include Rhonda Vincent & the Rage on May 16, Seldom Scene on May 17 and Town Mountain on May 18. Roanoke Island Festival Park, Manteo. bluegrassisland.com
From top: courtesy Outer Banks Visitors Bureau; Brooke Mayo Photographers; Library of Congress
The wind that rolls off the ocean and onto the beaches of the Outer Banks seduces visitors of all backgrounds, professions and zip codes. They all come looking for the same thing: to feel as if they are on the edge of the world.
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STAR ATTRACTIONS Enjoying earthly pleasures before taking to the skies in Roanoke / By Genevelyn Steele
Arts and market In close range is The Taubman Museum of Art (taubmanmuseum. org), an American art museum with 11 galleries hosting at least 15 exhibitions each year. Their annual sidewalk art show is held in June, and it spills out onto the Roanoke City Market, home to dozens of restaurants, breweries, and antique and
Roaring Run
The wasp-bodied, two-seater Diamond DA20 artisan shops, as well as the oldest conhummed as it skittered across the runway at 60 tinuously operating open-air market in Virginia, the Roanoke mph. I felt the acceleration rumble through my City Farmer’s Market, which runs May to September. seat, but it was too late to succumb to nerves. I shivered Take a hike as the instructor pulled Forty minutes from downtown Roanoke waits a soarback on the stick, lifting the ingly majestic, yet easy hike at Roaring Run in Botetourt small plane selected for my County. Waterfalls gush behind the culmination of two half-hour Discovery Flight trails running along defunct tram lines. A 19th-century with Star Flight Training iron ore furnace, which once made stoves and ingots, is (starflighttraining.com) into on the National Register of Historic Places, its American the crisp morning air. history noted on trail placards. BACK IN TIME I was learning to navigate with an experienced pilot — the high note to my aeronautically inspired weekend in the railroad city of Roanoke. The idea for the flight came from the concierge at the Hotel Roanoke (hotelroanoke.com), after I spoke of my visit to the Wings Over Virginia
Learn about Life-Guard, the first air ambulance service in Virginia, at the Virginia Museum of Transportation, 303 Norfolk Ave. S.W. The air ambulance began in Roanoke in the early 1980s. vmt.org
After passing over stone bridges, by sheer rock facings
and through wooded picnicking and trout fishing spots, take the edge off your appetite with overstuffed burgers or fried seafood at Ma and Paw’s Diner, also in Eagle Rock. Or head back to Roanoke for home-cooked Thai food with a cozy vibe at City Corner 2, followed by a cold one at Big Lick Brewing Co. (biglickbrewingco.com), one of several breweries located downtown, before calling it a day.
Courtesy Visit Roanoke; middle: Bill Frantz, courtesy Virginia Museum of Transportation
Aviation Collection at the Virginia Museum of Transportation (vmt.org). Known for its antique car and railroad exhibits, the transportation museum also covers air travel, dating back to the early 20th century, when barnstorming was common entertainment. The history of flight is hands-on here — from flying circuses and airmail to the modern Carilion Clinic Life-Guard helicopter fleet interactive station — illustrating how aviation has long been a part of Roanoke’s history. Dozens of other exhibits also begged for attention, including a still-functioning Norfolk and Western Class J No. 611 steam locomotive. Transportation memorabilia fills the tracks behind the museum, which is located in an old freight station. Save the
DATE
The Taubman Museum of Art
AUG. 24: Dr. Pepper Park will host Roanoke Wing Fest (drpepperpark.com/the-roanoke-wing-fest), featuring music, a cornhole tournament and, of course, food vendors serving up wings. S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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FLIGHTS AND FIGHTS
pilotless flying machine from Stafford’s Widewater peninsula. A few years later, Langley piloted and promptly crashed an airplane from
Wines, wars and more to explore in Stafford County and Fredericksburg / By Samantha Willis
the same area, just two months shy of the Wright brothers’ history-making flight in North Carolina. Today, that Potomac Point Vineyard & Winery
A short drive north from Richmond on Interstate 95 will take you to Stafford County and its quaint, cute neighbor across the Rappahannock River, the city of Fredericksburg. With a mix of historic sites and a bevy of adult beverage options, it’s well worth the drive.
connection to air travel lives on at Stafford Regional Airport, a general aviation airport that’s also home to a flight school run by
Aviation Adventures (aviationadventures.com) where aspiring pilots can work toward their private pilot’s certificate. The school’s instructors will also take nonpilots up in the air for a fee.
Drinks A collection of breweries and wineries make Stafford an ideal spot for adult visitors to sip and relax. Thirsty sojourners can sample award-winning wines
Fredericksburg Downtown District
at Potomac Point Vineyard & Winery (potomacpointwinery.com), where the head winemaker is David Pagan Castaño, a third-generation winemaker and native of Yecla, Spain. Open since 2007, Potomac Point Winery also offers fine dining sourced with local ingredients at its on-site eatery, Le Grand Cru Bistro.
Battle cries History-rich Fredericksburg was the site of a key Civil War battle. Soldiers’ diaries revealed that the Aurora Borealis blazed over the city as the Battle of Fredericksburg ground to a halt in December 1862, leaving in its wake an estimated 18,000 Union and icksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park’s Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor
To the point
Center (nps.gov/frsp) overlooks the battlefield.
Stafford County has a rich history with roots
Stop in for a heaping helping of Civil War history
stretching back to America’s earliest days. At
via films, exhibitions and guided tours along the
Indian Point, English Colonists circa 1613 kid-
Sunken Road, which saw some of the bloodiest
napped the Powhatan Indian princess Pocahon-
conflict of the war.
tas, according to the virtual Stafford Museum and Cultural Center (staffordcountymuseum.com), an online trove of information about the area’s rich history and cultural heritage.
Airborne Many Stafford visitors might be surprised to learn that it was also a hub of aviation innovation. In 1896, Alexander Graham Bell watched as Samuel Pierpont Langley launched an aerodrome, a Save the
DATE 28
GET YOUR WINGS The Shannon Air Museum, which features 20 vintage aircraft, reopened in 2017. Much of this collection was displayed in the former Virginia Aviation Museum in Richmond. shannonairmuseum.com
Coffee and furniture Fredericksburg’s Downtown District offers a slew of shops, art galleries and restaurants to entice visitors. Curitiba Art Café (curitibaartcafe. com) is a hybrid Brazilian-style coffeehouse and furniture store that sells pieces crafted from reclaimed demolished wood. Husband-and-wife owners, Frank and Anna Robinson, founded the business last year.
JUNE 29: The World Heritage Festival features various ethnic culinary treats, work by more than 60 artists and artisans, and a children’s activity area. Free, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Riverfront Park, Fredericksburg. chiceventsdc.com
From top: courtesy Potomac Point Vineyard & Winery; Spotsylvania Dept. of Economic Development & Tourism; courtesy Shannon Air Museum
Confederate casualties. Today, the Freder-
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Virginia Living Museum
ON THE WATER, IN THE AIR Fun in and over the water around Newport News / By Samantha Willis Lying along the James River as it enters the Chesapeake Bay, Newport News is awash in watery activities, from fishing to learning about the various ways people have traveled the seas, and the land and sky, too.
Eco tourism Learn about the natural world with a focus on Virginia at the Virginia Living Museum (thevlm.org). The
Crab Shack on the James
facility takes you from an Appalachian cove to the Chesapeake Bay through its displays and
Keep them rollin’
habitats. Fun learning experiences for children include a
The Conestoga wagon was one of America’s earliest forms
touch tank and a Wild and Well
of transportation. One of these big-wheeled wonders, dating to the 1750s, resides in the U.S. Army Transportation
exhibit that involves kids in role-
Museum (transportation.army.mil/museum) at Fort Eustis.
playing opportunities as it teaches about animal care.
Courtesy Newport News Tourism; bottom: courtesy U.S. Army Transportation Museum
Water world The Mariners’ Museum and Park (marinersmuseum.org) celebrates life along and on the
The wagon is one of 7,000 artifacts housed in the 5-acre facility, which includes everything from planes and Jeeps to tugboats and landing craft. The museum is open 9 a.m. to UH-1 Huey
seas in its 90,000 square feet of exhibition space,
4:30 p.m. daily, except for Sundays and Mondays and federal holidays. Admission is free, but visitors must show ID at the base gate.
with a collection that includes artifacts, artwork and an array of craft both real and in model form.
Sea, food
It is also home to artifacts from the U.S.S. Moni-
Whether their style is saltwater or freshwater,
tor (monitorcenter.org), the landmark ironclad
fishermen flock to Newport News. With seven
that did battle in the Civil War in 1862 with another armored ship, the C.S.S. Virginia, nearby in Hampton Roads. It was the first clash between two ironclad vessels. The Mariners’ Museum’s 550-acre park offers a great view of the James River near Lions Bridge, named for its lion statues that date from 1932. It serves as the dam for Lake Maury, which is named for Matthew Fontaine Maury, a 19th-century Richmond resident known for establishing oceanography and founding the agricultural-school forerunner of Virginia Tech, among other accomplishments. Save the
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HISTORIC HELICOPTERS Fort Eustis is home to the U.S. Army Transportation Corps. Its 10,000-square-foot museum includes an Aviation Pavilion that houses exhibits including Army One, the helicopter used by President John F. Kennedy. transportation. army.mil/museum/ ParksandPavilions/ AviationPavilion.html
public boat ramps and three marinas, the city is an ideal spot to flow onto Coastal Virginia waterways and cast a few lines. Learn about your options at nngov.com/794/Fishing. A day of angling is bound to make anybody hungry, a problem that Newport News’ eateries can certainly solve. Enjoy a sweeping view of the James River with your meal at Crab Shack on the James. The 7601 River Road restaurant, founded in 1993, serves up fresh seafood dishes including tuna steaks, calamari, shrimp and — of course — crab cakes. Visit their Facebook page for more information.
MAY 5: Craft Beer Festival offers tastings of more than 50 brews, food trucks and music. Noon to 5 p.m., Mariners’ Museum and Park courtyard. $35 in advance through May 5; $45 at event; $15 for nondrinkers. marinersmuseum.org S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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Wild ponies on Assateague Island
With island cruises, fishing trips, kayak tours, a waterpark and miniature golf, activities abound — but save time for browsing the diversity of local shops (kites to clothing to taffy) and enjoying the wonderful, f resh seafood, with the briny oysters (raw, roasted, stewed or fried) being our favorite. Our children enjoyed trying their hands at clamming and crabbing; any local fishing shop or hardware store can offer simple instructions and materials for these pursuits. Remember size restrictions and limits on crabs in Virginia are enforced as a
ISLAND ADVENTURES
conservation measure: Crabs must measure 5 inches from point to point on their back shell.
Assateague Lighthouse
Hikes and bikes With hiking and biking trails of
There’s much more than ponies to experience around Assateague Island / By Martha Steger
varying length and diff iculty on Assateague, these activities have also scored high marks with our family. Bicycles (and bike-style scooters) are available for reasonable rent. A good place to start with hiking is the lighthouse trail —
The wild ponies of Assateague Island, along with the noncommercialized Atlantic Ocean beach, have lured generations of travelers to the Chincoteague area — where the only traffic jam is likely caused by wildlife moseying across a road. As our children aged, our fascination with the destination broadened to include the entire sand-dunesand-salt-grass environment; it’s easy to fall in love with horseshoe crabs, snow geese, herons, piping plovers, pelicans and peregrine falcons.
the first parking lot to the right after going through the gate to Assateague (senior passes to the wildlife refuge are available, as is a multiple-day pass).
See the light The lighthouse is open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends from April through November. It stands atop a hill accessed via a wooded trail from the parking lot, which is usually full of mosquitoes — bring bug spray and wear comfortable, stable shoes. The lighthouse offers a view from the top that makes climbing the 175 steps worth it, but allow plenty of
NASA’s Wallops Island Flight Facility Visitor Center stands along Highway 175, the road from the Virginia mainland to Chincoteague. Look for the rocket garden on the grounds, where you’ll also find a viewing area for rocket launches (for a schedule, visit nasa.gov/launchschedule). Exhibits inside highlight past NASA missions at the facility and provide information on current activities such as the sounding rocket, balloon and aircraft program. It’s open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
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time, as the same stairway and railing are used for visitors going up and coming down, and everyone should hold onto the railing. We check out the Tom’s Cove Visitor Center each time we return to Assateague, as exhibits — like the landscape — change.
MAY 4: Chincoteague Seafood Festival. The 51st edition of this celebration of fresh local delicacies, from littleneck clams to raw oysters, also features entertainment and local arts and crafts. chincoteaguechamber.com
Getty Images; bottom: courtesy NASA
OUTER LIMITS
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DON ’T JUST SAIL PA S T H I S TO RY
CLIMB ABOARD
Set your sights on daily hands-on history at Jamestown Settlement, a yearlong stage for the 2019 Commemoration.
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Bring the kids to Capt. Mahems’s School of Piracy! Adults $37, Kids $25 1-888.316.6422 •www.sailyorktown.com
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SERVICE AND SACRIFICE
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SITES COMMEMORATING VIRGINIA’S MILITARY HERITAGE 34/ WILLIAMSBURG/
YORKTOWN 35/ QUANTICO 36/ NORFOLK 37/ ARLINGTON Photo courtesy Arlington National Cemetery
Arlington National Cemetery
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TRACING HISTORY
The exhibits allow history geeks and those new to the story to immerse themselves in the era, moving through films, interactive exhibitions, a ship and a tent set-up like that used by General Washington in the field. Those stories impart the chronology of the battles, the power plays between the colonists, unexpected
Virginia’s historic triangle brings to life America’s roots from settlement to revolution and beyond / By Dina Weinstein
alliances between the colonists and the French, and the presence of paid European mercenaries. To appreciate the battlefield’s significance, join one of the outdoor ranger talks explaining the importance of the disparate groups and the significance of the lay of the land. Then embark on your choice of two auto tours, the battlefield tour or the al-
The historic triangle of Jamestown, Yorktown and Williamsburg tells the story of early American history. Historic Jamestowne (historicjamestowne. org) is a cultural heritage site and living history museum that was the location of the 1607 James Fort and the later 17th century city of Jamestown. Colonial Williamsburg (colonialwilliamsburg.com) recreates and interprets 18th century Virginia.
lied encampment tour.
More to explore Absorb more history by museum hopping in Yorktown. The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown (historyisfun.org) features period artifacts and an outdoor living-history area where visitors can witness artillery demonstrations or participate in a drill with wooden muskets. The Maritime-focused Watermen’s Museum (watermens.org) shows
Independence assured
the role Chesapeake Bay watermen have
The Yorktown Battlef ield (nps.gov/york) a
played in shaping the nation with a focus on
National Park, operated as a part of the Colonial National Historical Park of Virginia, tells what it took for the United States to gain independence, highlighting the
native peoples, nature, boating and pirates. The Jamestown Settlement
last major battle of the Revolutionary War.
York County Historical Museum (visityorktown. org) showcases artifacts going back to the native inhabitants of the area.
The Visitors Center museum is the orientation point to absorb
Meander down scenic Historic Main Street and along the
the events in the fall of 1781, when Gen. George Washington, with
Riverwalk Landing to browse specialty shops, art galleries and
allied American and French forces, besieged Gen. Charles Lord
find a variety of restaurants or chill on the town’s beach.
Cornwallis’s British army, leading to the British general’s surrender — effectively ending the war and ensuring independence.
The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown
This summer marks the 400th anniversary of the first meeting of a representative government in America, at Jamestown. A commemorative celebration is set for July 30 at Historic Jamestown and Jamestown Settlement. americanevolution2019.com Save the
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MAY 4: Blues, Brews and BBQ Festival, Riverwalk Landing, Yorktown. Barbecue, 25 craft beers, a wine garden and blues courtesy of bands including On the Verge and Brasswind, noon to 6 p.m. villageevents.org
Courtesy Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation
DEMOCRACY IN ACTION
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DEVIL DOGS AND WOODLAND HIKES Explore a reclaimed forest and Marine Corps history in Northern Virginia / By Tharon Giddens Prince William County’s southern edge is home to some surprising attractions, including a riverside village surrounded by a military base, a world-class military museum and a National Park Servicemanaged forest that feels worlds away from its suburban setting. National Museum of the Marine Corps
Marine tales The history of the U.S. Marine Corps is celebrated at the National Museum of the Ma-
wave you through without an extensive review of
rine Corps (usmcmuseum.com), the soaring
vehicle paperwork.
structure in Triangle, just east of I-95. The facil-
Quantico is the only American municipality sur-
ity’s design was inspired by the iconic image of
rounded by a military base. At 43 acres, it’s a compact
Marines raising the American flag on the island of Iwo Jima during World War II. Inside, the story of the Corps is told through artifacts and exhibits,
community, closed off from the military base by fencing, Prince William Forest Park
from boot camp through all of the conflicts and
but it doesn’t feel claustrophobic, with a Potomac River view and an open gate for base denizens to walk into the village to shop and dine. Dining options include coffee and sand-
wiches at Café Banh (cafebanh.com) and Sam’s Inn Restaurant
wars fought by Marines. There is a Children’s Gallery, as well as a couple stations in the
(samsinnrestaurant.com), where the extensive menu includes piz-
facility that offer hands-on learning experiences
za, subs, wraps, Italian dishes, steaks and seafood.
for ages up to 10 (must be accompanied by an Courtesy Visit Prince William, Virginia; bottom: National Archives
adult). Work up an appetite and check out the second floor’s Devil Dog Diner or Tun Tavern,
Quantico, circa 1918
Into the woods With a population in excess of 400,0000, Prince
where you can get pub fare including a venison
William County has the second-largest popula-
burger ($12.95) or a crab cake sandwich ($11.95).
tion among Virginia counties, but this Wash-
The museum is located on a 135-acre campus
ington suburb is also home to a massive green
that’s also home to a memorial park and chapel.
space, Prince William Forest Park (nps.gov/
Admission is free to the facility, except there’s a $5 charge for its hands-on rifle range experience.
Village with a view The town of Quantico (townofquantico.org) is a short drive f rom the museum, but you have to travel through its namesake, Marine Base Quantico, to get there. Just tell the gate guard that you’re visiting the town, and they’ll Save the
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prwi). The National Park Service maintains this
OVER HERE The U.S. Marine Corps Base Quantico has its origins in World War I, when it was known as Marine Barracks Quantico and was used as a training site. quantico.marines.mil
15,000-acre forest, a popular site for hiking, biking, camping and picnicking. Much of the site is second-growth forest, land reclaimed under federal programs during the Great Depression from industrial and farming purposes. There’s a scenic drive that takes you through rambling hills and along Quantico Creek, as well as a system of 16 trails to explore.
MAY 26-27: Quantico’s Memorial Day Weekend Festival features a fishing tournament May 26. Events on May 27 include a craft show with 70 vendors at 2 p.m., music at 7 p.m. and fireworks over the Potomac River at 9 p.m. townofquantico.org S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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and Virginia. It’s surrounded by a Norfolk skyline
koi pond and garden, and you can hear relaxing trickles from fountains as you take in a stunning view of the Elizabeth River. Inside the pagoda is Kisha Frazier’s Hummingbird Macarons & Desserts (hummingbirdmacarons.com), a palace of tea, champagne, macarons and cakes that also boasts a second-story view. A short trek to the Waterside District (watersidedistrict.com) presents a mini village of eateries in The Market, from wood-burning oven-baked pizza at local favorite Cogans (coganspizza.com) to sips from the draft collection and wine flights at Vin Wine Bar, as well as Rappahannock Oyster Co. — yes, Richmond’s Rappahannock — and Stripers (striperswaterside.com), a
THE NEW NORFOLK This historic seaport’s identity swells beyond its nautical core / By Eileen Mellon
seafood emporium hailing from the Outer Banks.
The Chrysler Museum of Art
Get with Ghent On the way to nearby Ghent, a quaint neighborhood of dining and culture, stop in The Chrysler Museum of Art
(chrysler.org) to check out a stunning, internationally acclaimed glass collection. For a java fix, Elliott’s Fair Grounds (fairgroundscoffee.com) — Norfolk’s oldest independent coffee shop — exudes homey vibes in the cozy, bi-level coffee hut adorned with hodgepodge furniture and quirky touches like the E.T. figurine near the cash register. Down the block, Fruitive (fruitive.com), a 100 percent organic restaurant, tempts diners to get their freshness on with cashew cheese, flax and spelt bread, and super berry bowls. Colley Avenue is home
Bites with a view
antiques.com), specialty stores
Norfolk is filled with pockets of unexpected turns, and one lies
and markets, and the iconic
in its Freemason Harbor neighborhood. I was told to visit the
Naro Theater (narocinema.
Pagoda and Oriental Garden (pagodagarden.org) by a friend,
com) that screens a mix of new
and the recommendation proved to be rewarding.
and old films — on my visit, the
Behind towering stalks of bamboo, an intimate, flourishing
2018 version of “A Star Is Born”
garden reveals itself. An arched bridge leads to the Taiwanese
and a Salvador Dali documen-
Pagoda, a gift honoring the trade relationship between Taiwan
tary were featured.
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to Ghent Antiques (ghent
ANCHORED IN HISTORY Nauticus (nauticus.org) celebrates 25 years in 2019. A sea-focused science and technology center, Nauticus includes the U.S.S. Battleship Wisconsin, the Hampton Roads Naval Museum and a chance for the kids (or you, we don’t judge) to get friendly with sea creatures like horseshoe crabs or starfish.
JUNE 7-9: The free Norfolk Harborfest festival features fireworks, food, performances and the Parade of Sail, a twohour parade of ships on the Elizabeth River. visitnorfolk.com
Getty Images; center: courtesy Visit Norfolk
On a 65-degree day in February, a Virginia weather blessing, I park my car and walk along the downtown harbor of Norfolk. I grew up about 25 minutes away, so the city is not unknown, but on this particular visit, with the sun shining, a light breeze and an enchanting cityscape ahead, I’m reminded that it’s not the same Norfolk I knew from 10 years ago. The waterfront city nestled between Hampton and Virginia Beach is known as the home of the largest naval base in the country, but it’s also demanding recognition for more than its maritime history.
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SACRED GROUNDS Honored heroes, both renowned and unknown, at Arlington National Cemetery / By Genevelyn Steele
War lie within — the Vietnam War unknown has since been identified and moved. A changing of the guard ceremony takes place every half-hour from April 1 to Sept. 30 when the park is open
There is no better image symbolizing the trip to the afterlife than the delicate, fleeting petals of falling cherry blossoms. Valued for their transient beauty and renewal, cherry blossoms emit a subtle aroma, at once bitter and floral, like a green almond wrapped in white flowers. They nudge hope and warmth into gray April days. Fittingly, one of the best places to observe bloom-laden boughs and skip the crowds at the Tidal Basin, is at Arlington National Cemetery (arlingtoncemetery.mil), where 417 Yoshina and other cherry blossom trees open up over 624 acres.
The Tomb of the Unknown Solider
and every hour from Oct. 1 to March 31. On Memorial Day, more than 225,000 miniature American flags are placed at each headstone, while dignitaries place a memorial wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Along the way Other points of interest are The Space Shuttle Challenger Memorial and The Lockerbie Cairn, a gift from Scotland memorializing the lives lost through the terrorist attack on Pan Am Flight 103 in 1988. Arlington House, a Greek revival estate, overlooks the National Mall and the Potomac River and houses the Civil War Unknowns Monument. Arlington House, which once served as a memorial to
Arlington National Cemetery
George Washington, is currently undergoing a major renovation.
What you’ll need Locate maps, guidebooks, exhibits and restrooms at the Visitor’s Center. If you’re looking for a specific gravesite — Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall, President William Taft and several Kennedys are buried here — or a self-guided walking tour, download the app. Driving into the cemetery is allowable only for handicapped visitors, those visiting a private gravesite or via the Arlington Courtesy Arlington National Cemetery; bottom: Library of Congress
National Cemetery Tour. Comfortable shoes and a water bottle (the only beverage allowed) are a must for petal peeping. In the summer, don’t forget to check out the rose gardens.
The Unknown Soldier The most solemn rituals at Arlington occur at The Tomb of
Arlington National Cemetery, 1867
the Unknown Soldier, perched on a hillside commanding a view of Washington, D.C. The tomb, adorned with Greek mythological figures symbolizing valor and grace, was carved by the Piccirilli Brothers, whose work includes the New York Public Library lions and the statue of Abraham Lincoln within the Lincoln Memorial, is guarded 24 hours a day. Remains from soldiers who fought in both World Wars and the Korean Save the
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Nearby dining Ambar (ambarrestaurant.com), with locations in both D.C. and Arlington, is
BY THE NUMBERS
highly recommended for a an exotic,
The first dead were buried at Arlington in the 1860s during the Civil War. More than 400,000 active and retired duty military are now buried here.
modern dinner experience. Order individual plates or sample unlimited bites of Balkan cuisine for $35 — the spreads, lamb and kebabs are outstanding — served in a cushy, upscale setting awash in earth and jewel tones.
MAY 27: The Memorial Day commemoration begins at 11 a.m. at the Memorial Amphitheater in Arlington National Cemetery. arlingtoncemetery.mil S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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Welcome to Warsaw
One hour east of Richmond, endless hours of history, culture, and pristine water fun.
The Heart Of Virginia’s Historical Northern Neck
TownofWarsaw.com #WARSAWVA #NORTHERNNECK #LOVEVA
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long a winding road in the mountains west of the
Shenandoah Valley is an enchanted place where eagles soar and artists dream. In this land where creativity flourishes, music from the Garth Newel Music Center fills every heart with joy.
MAKE YOUR ARTISTIC DREAMS COME TRUE IN THE COUNTY OF BATH
DiscoverBath.com
800-628-8092 · #CountyofBathVA
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FOLLOW THE TEMPOS AND TUNES OVER THE HILLS AND INTO THE CITY 42/ HOT SPRINGS 43/ FLOYD 44/ BRISTOL
Publicity photo courtesy of DC Soul Recordings
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photo credit
45/ D.C.
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photo credit
MUSIC HISTORY
Chuck Brown and The Soul Searchers, 1978, pioneers in D.C.’s go-go music scene.
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It’s apropos that internet ser-
Garth Newel Music Center
vice can be spotty in the county, as my husband, Tom, and I felt we had connected to something larger once we crossed the mountain and drove State Route 220 through Hot Springs — home of the Omni Homestead Resort & Spa. We settled in at Garth Newel for our Friday evening concert by the commonwealth’s only yearround music center with a resident piano quartet.
The music A quartet member provides insights into each piece. Fang, for example, explained Johannes Brahms’ Piano Quartet No. 2 in A major, Op. 26, by pointing out “the first movement’s sounds of graceful mobility” followed by the care-
MAGIC IN THE WOODS
free “Poco adagio” and the “heart and soul of the piece” in “Scherzo: Poco allegro,” where Brahms “probes the an-
Virginia’s Garth Newel Music Center hits the high notes / By Martha Steger
Garth Newel Piano Quartet
guish of his life, though there’s a redemptive mood at the end when the violin and cello play alternately and then triumphantly together.”
Sound companions Dinner (an optional addition to reservations) follows, with the staff’s precision movement of tables following Friday and Saturday
Garth Newel Music Center resident artist Jeannette Fang’s hands and feet flew up and down off piano keys and pedals in the quartet’s rendition of Astor Piazzolla’s “Primavera Portena (Spring)” from The Four Seasons of Buenos Aires. Violinist Teresa Ling, violist Evelyn Grau and cellist Isaac Melamed played in perfect time and tune with the piano dynamo.
evening concerts. Staying for dinner is a “must.” Resident chef Josh Elliott turns the former horse ring into a gourmet venue in which performing quartet members join guests at the round tables for conversations.
Accommodations Spacious, comfortable rooms in Garth Newel’s Manor House (garthnewel.org) can sleep a party of 18 or offer an intimate setting for a couple (one accessible room available). The Giles Cottage
The dynamism of the Garth Newel Piano
and Green Room Apartment provides additional
Quartet is well hidden among the 114 partially
rooms. Reservations/information: 540-839-5018,
tains, where the four artists-in-residence play all year — not only “off the wood” of the former horse barn in which they perform, but off their instruments’ wood. The result, for those of us listening, is nothing short of a nourishing, warm experience outside of the village of Warm Springs — a corner of Bath County whose entire county population numbers under 5,000. Save the
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garthnewel.org; email: tama@garthnewel.org.
ABOUT GARTH NEWEL Owners William and Christine Kendall gave the estate its name in the 1920s from a Welsh phrase that translates as “new hearth” or “new home.” garthnewel.org
Bath County offers activities ranging from tea at the Homestead to a massage at Warm Spirit Spa, discoverbath.com.
Insider’s Tip Enjoy browsing the manor house’s mahoganylined bookshelves in the library — and strolling the center’s grounds and hiking trails.
April 13, April 27, May 18 (“pay-as-you-wish”), May 19 (free), and May 24-May 26. Spring season guest performances include light refreshments afterward to encourage the meeting and mingling of artists and guests.
Joanne DiBona Photography
wooded acres in Virginia’s Allegheny Moun-
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FINDING FLOYD Annual music festival brings the world to Patrick County / By Megan Wilson For more than 17 years, strange sounds have whipped and tumbled through the curves and bends of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the middle of the summer. Every year, they sound a little different. This year, artists including Brandi Carlile, Kacey Musgraves, Margo Price and Richmond’s DJ Williams will make up this breadth of beats, rain or shine, during the 2019 FloydFest, July 24-28 (floydfest.com).
20th-century landmarks: Slate Mountain Presbyterian Church, Willis Baptist Church, and Indian Valley Presbyterian Church (stone-churches.com).
Pioneer times Along the way, pause to take in the power of the Mabry Mill. It spins stories about pioneer life along the Blue Ridge Parkway with a historic water-powered grist mill, sawmill and blacksmith shop. Lead your crew on a self-guided tour of the sorghum mill, soap making kettle, and whiskey still or catch one of the National Park Service’s demonstrations on blacksmithing, carding, spinning and basket making. After your tour, enjoy buckwheat cakes, pulled pork and pot pie at the Mabry Mill Restaurant (mabrymillrestaurant.com). Bring home a taste from the gift
Step to it
shop’s selection of grits, cornmeal and buckwheat flour.
In the middle of Patrick County, yoga, dance
Wine tastings and tours
lessons, and beer tastings will keep festival veterans and young families tapping
Wash down your grits with a glass (or five) at Chateau
their feet inside the campgrounds.
Morrisette Winery (thedogs.com). Four miles north
New additions to the festival will help
of Mabry Mill, the winery overlooks Buffalo Mountain
attendees explore more of the Blue
and the valley. Chateau offers daily wine tastings and
Ridge through hikes, bike expeditions,
tours, and has a full service, four-diamond restaurant.
kayaking or tubing down the Little River
If you aren’t headed back to the FloydFest camp-
Clockwise from top: Courtesy Chateau Morrisette Winery; Roger Gupta, courtesy Across-the-Way Productions; Across-the-Way Productions/McConnell Library Archives and Special Collections, Radford University
in Floyd County. Festival attendees can
ground at the end of the day, the area is dotted with bed
step out on their own, too. Like the music
& breakfasts that have their own roots in America’s history.
drifting from the eight FloydFest stages, the
The Ambrosia Farm Bed & Breakfast (ambrosiafarm.net),
landmarks of the area are rooted in history.
Chateau Morrisette Winery
for example, is a restored pre-Civil War structure built from hand-hewn chestnut logs with working stone fireplaces. The
Stone sanctuary
staff wakes guests up with a three-course gourmet breakfast
Carved from pieces of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the stone
from its organic garden.
churches in Floyd are active, but historic reminders of the faith of the moun-
FloydFest
tain people. Take a hike or bike to all three of the early
DIGITAL FESTIVAL The history of Floydfest is told through posters, tickets and photos available to peruse in a digital collection at Radford University (monk.radford.edu).
Save the
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AUG. 10: The Black Dog Beach Music Festival, afternoon of beach music and wine, courtesy of Chateau Morrisette; noon to 5 p.m., Morrisette Festival Field, 3641 Black Ridge Road S.W., Floyd; thedogs.com. S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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COUNTRY ROADS Bristol has a historical claim to the title of Virginia’s Music City
The title was bestowed on Bristol in 1998 by Congress in recognition of the city as the site where the earliest-known recordings of country musicians were made, in 1927. Artists at those
Bristol Caverns
sessions included the celebrated Carter Family and yodeling legend Jimmie Rodgers, also known as the Father of Country Music. The 24,000-square-
/ By Mac Konrad
foot museum’s exhibits tell the story of those sessions, and they include some of the earliest recordings of local country artists, as well as a radio station that broadcasts out of the museum.
State Street life The main drag is also the state border with Tennessee. You’ll find a small plaque to that effect in the center of the roadway, and there’s a landmark electric sign across the street, too. State Street is also home to the studio of fine arts photographer Benjamin Walls (benjaminwalls.com), whose work has been featured at world-class museums, including the Smithsonian.
Eats and drinks Greene’s Fresh Seafood (greenesseafood.weebly. com), on the Virginia side of State Street, has been around for 30 years, serving fish caught in U.S. waters. The menu has steamed and fried selections, as well as lunch offerings such as breaded and fried flounder fillets or a blackened tuna sandwich. Local breweries include Elderbrew (elderbrew. com), on Sixth Street on the Tennessee side of downtown, and Bristol Station Brews & Taproom (bristolbrew.com), in the old bus station on Ernie Ford
Piedmont Avenue across the line in Virginia.
Wild pursuits erns (bristolcaverns.com) offers tours through
Birthplace of Country Music Museum
a massive cave carved out by an underground river over millions of years. The river is still
“SIXTEEN TONS” It seems that Bristol may have put the twang in country music. You’ll find proof all around State Street in this city that straddles the Tennessee and Virginia state line. The prime piece of evidence is that Bristol is home to the Birthplace of Country Music Museum (birthplaceofcountrymusic.org).
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Bristol is home to the birthplace of popand country-music star Tennessee Ernie Ford. The Ol’ Pea-Picker’s house has been restored by the Bristol Historical Association (bristolhistorical association.com) for its headquarters.
there, and it’s surrounded by impressive stalactites, stalagmites and rock formations.
Loud and fast For those looking for a bit more high-octane excitement, there’s Bristol Motor Speedway (bristolmotorspeedway.com), the site of two NASCAR events a year, as well as a host of other race-related events. Bring ear protection: The racetrack has been named the loudest in NASCAR, according to Fox Sports.
MAY 25: The inaugural Bristol Wing War in Bristol will pair hot wings and cold beer. Pay $10 for general admission and you’ll get wings for $1 each. For $45, you get two wings from each vendor and unlimited beer. 1 to 5 p.m.
From top: courtesy Discover Bristol; Hannah Holmes, courtesy Birthplace of Country Music Museum; National Archives
South of the city in Tennessee, Bristol Cav-
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STILL GO-GOING D.C. celebrates its renowned musical beat / By Genevelyn Steele
If Washington, D.C., could elect one beat to represent it, it’s the funky, conga-stacked, rat-a-tats of go-go: one district, under an ever-evolving groove, weaving R&B, salsa and electronica into percussive house parties for more than 50 years.
Chuck Brown Memorial Park Tico
grown and sexy, a newer venue, the U Street Music Hall Think you’re unfamiliar with go-
(ustreetmusichall.com), wants these performances to stay
go? Then cycle back to shaking
singular with “Go-Go Returns to U Street.” The live music
tail at a wedding or watching the
residency incepted last year brings legendary acts such as
marching band’s hype man get his
Rare Essence back to U Street for the first time in a decade.
backfield in motion to “Da Butt,” a
Eats with the beat
From top: S Pakhrin/Flickr, courtesy Schlow Restaurant Group; Globe Collection and Press at MICA
booty knocking ditty commissioned by Spike Lee for School Daze in 1988.
Though the historically black U Street corridor is undergoing
That’s the legendary E.U. (Experience
major changes — there’ a farmers’ market Saturday mornings —
Unlimited), baby! Fronted by Gregory “Sugar
one restaurant has not, Ben’s Chili Bowl (benschilibowl.com).
Bear” Elliott, it’s one of many go-go bands still slamming in
Tucked between the dopest street murals in the city, Ben’s has
the District.
served chili-slathered half smokes to presidents, celebrities and
D.C.’s Chuck Brown, the godfather of go-go, recorded his hit,
citizens for more than 60 years.
“Bustin’Loose” in 1977, a full decade before go-go became main-
Tico (ticodc.com) a modern American tapas restaurant with
stream. Brown was a mentor to many area maestros, including
tentacles reaching into Latin America and Spain, is led by James
the Backyard Band, a harder hitting latecomer to the genre.
Beard Award-winning chef Michael Schlow. The rooftop lounge
Ergo, any music lover’s trip to the Capitol must include a trip
at Lost Society (lostsociety-dc.com), a modern steakhouse, hits
to Chuck Brown Memorial Park at 20th and Franklin streets.
a high note after touring District Distilling Co. (district-distilling.
The park entrance is flanked with a memorial wall to Brown
com), a distillery and kitchen, or walking Meridian Hill Park
noting his legacy in a curved timeline. Visitors can play outdoor
(nps.gov/places), home to the longest cascading fountain in
toy drums; hit the playground or catch a band in the central pla-
North America.
za, which hosts public events. Chuck Brown Day is an annual, free go-go fest held in August. Last year, Trouble Funk, whose licks can be heard on Public Enemy and Beastie Boys tracks, were headliners. Though a cacophony of drums backing a talk man’s steady call and response segments might cry Save the
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HISTORY ON THE GO-GO Go-go took root along the U Street corridor in the 1960s with street drummers bouncing beats off buckets, knocking a trail through D.C.’s Top 40 clubs and predominantly black high school and church gyms known as “go-gos.” Cover tunes, played by largely African-American dance bands, were personalized and turned into extended jam sessions with the aid of a musical crew, dancers and a “talk man” — a forerunner of a rapper.
APRIL 20: D.C.’s homegrown go-go group The Backyard Band performs at the 2019 National Cannabis Festival (national cannabisfestival.com) at RFK Stadium. Also on the bill are Ludacris, Black Masala and DJ Farrah Flosscett. S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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MEET THE MAKERS • N.o 19
A GREAT GETAWAY
In the Making Travel inspires growth — and vice versa. In the Baltimore neighborhood of Remington, enter the world of B.Willow, an oasis of tropical plants, succulents and cacti of all kinds. Owner Liz Vayda has created a space where anyone can pick and pot their own plant, make a terrarium or just indulge their senses. Through welcoming spaces and creative workshops, Baltimore’s makers are creating down-to-earth experiences to nurture your every passion.
BALTIMORE.ORG/MeetTheMakers
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▪ Pastures, woodland, riverfront ▪ Programs on history & science ▪ Celebrations and festivals
▪ Original 18th-century buildings ▪ Summer camps ▪ Hiking, biking, kayaking
Explore the Past. Enjoy the Present.
C
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Y
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483 Great House Rd | Stratford, Virginia 22558 804-493-8038 | StratfordHall.org
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Whether it’s a seat on a patio overlooking the confluence of the Appomattox and James Rivers, a seat for a performance in the historic Beacon Theatre, or a seat downtown at a local restaurant; we have a seat for you. Interested in more than sitting? Come enjoy our soon to be completed Riverwalk on the banks of the Appomattox River, take a stroll through historic City Point, or put in a kayak, canoe, or stand up paddle board at our City Marina. Are events more your thing? Check out our annual Wonder City Craft Beer Festival, Get your Butts to Broadway BBQ competition, or our free Rockin’ on the River and Sounds of Summer concert series.
Find out more about our WONDER CITY at hopewellva.gov
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LEADING THE WAY
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HISTORIC VIRGINIA WOMEN, FROM QUEEN EDY TO EDNA LEWIS 50/ SOUTHAMPTON COUNTY 51/ DANVILLE 52/ TRI-CITIES 53/ ORANGE COUNTY
photo credit
54/ ALEXANDRIA Photo courtesy U.S. Army Women’s Museum U.S. Army Women’s Museum, Fort Lee
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Nottoway Chief Lynette Lewis Allston (right)
Still, the community endured. After petitioning for state recognition in 2006, the Nottoway received it in 2010. Led by Chief Lynette Lewis Allston, tribal members are conducting oral histories, preserving heirloom crops, reviving use of the Nottoway language and engaging youth in continuing tribal traditions. “All of our officers are elected,” says Allston, who has been the tribe’s chief for about 12 years, after a long period with no formal leadership. “It’s a modern-day version of Iroquoian law.”
Community house On the first Saturday of the month from May to December, you can visit the Nottoway Indian Tribe of Virginia Community House and Interpretive Center (nottoway indians.org) to learn more about its history, look at artifacts, meet some of its members, browse locally made crafts at the adjacent Gallery 1606 and participate in traditions such as beading, woodworking and dying fabric with indigo or black walnut hulls.
A QUIET PRESENCE The Nottoway Indian Tribe has a strong tradition of women in leadership / By Tina Eshleman
Art and history While in the area, head over to Courtland — previously called Jerusalem — to see Mahone’s Tavern and Museum (built in 1796), where William Mahone, a Confederate general and railroad magnate who became leader of the Readjuster Party after the Civil War, lived as a youth (mahonestavern.org). Also worth a visit is Rawls Museum Arts (rawlsarts.com), which will have its Rawls Museum Arts
2019 juried show of pieces by Virginia and North Carolina artists on display through April 12, followed by
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seven area high schools and an exhibition of art created on site through the museum’s outreach program, from April 21 to May 20.
Emporia haunts For lunch or dinner, consider a trip to Emporia, where a café/tavern/gift-and-flower shop oper-
‘QUEEN EDY’ Edith “Edy” Turner (circa 1754 to 1838), aka Wané Roonseraw, was called “chief” and “queen” of the Nottoway Indians. She was instrumental in creating a written record of the Nottoway language.
ates under the name Three Bears and a Tree in the restored Hotel Virginia building on Halifax Street. Fill up on soup and sandwiches or a dinner special such as shrimp scampi while trains rumble past, and catch some live music or karaoke in the evenings. Ask the bartender about “Billy” the ghost. If you’re hungry for more stories, visit Harvey Clement at True Patriots Antiques next door and check out his eclectic collection.
MAY 3-4: A natural dye workshop at the Nottoway Indian Tribe of Virginia Community House and Interpretive Center, 23186 Main St. in Capron. $30. To register, search “Nottoway Natural Dye Workshop” at eventbrite.com.
From top: Vincent Schilling; Tina Eshleman; courtesy Library of Virginia
“Two in One,” featuring work from students in
The two-story brick building where U.S. 58 intersects with Capron’s Main Street is a sign of Virginia’s Nottoway Indian tribe’s re-emergence. Not that it ever left. The tribe’s members have quietly occupied this stretch of Southside Virginia near the Nottoway River for centuries. They kept a low profile out of necessity after the 1831 Nat Turner rebellion in Southampton County, when people of color were terrorized. Then, during the early part of the 20th century, Virginia’s registrar of vital statistics refused to acknowledge Native Americans’ identity, forcing them and other nonwhites to classify themselves as “colored.”
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Mucho Taqueria
ROLLING HILLS AND ARMOUR, TOO With a tank museum and a vibrant river district, Danville is worth a look / By Nicole Cohen Danville is a mesh of small town country life and large city amenities. The city’s industrial downtown area is reminiscent of Richmond’s Shockoe Bottom, with repurposed warehouses and factories affording it some unique shopping and dining neighboring the Dan River.
Tanks for the memories The American Armoured Foundation Tank Museum
Shops and stops
(aaftankmuseum.com) has the big guns, 120 tanks and
Danville’s River District is home
artillery pieces, but it’s also packed with other military
to shops and local restaurants in-
artifacts from around the world, dating from 1509, all dis-
cluding Mucho Taqueria (mucho
played in a family-owned and -operated facility housed in a
taqueria.com), a taco spot that also
300,000-square-foot former milling factory. Its rolling stock
offers 85 different tequilas. For an ap-
includes a T-72A Soviet tank that was used in Iraq, as well
petizer, request shredded beef added
as an old M-108 self-propelled howitzer from the U.S. Army. There’s more history to explore at the Danville Museum
to the nachos, the perfect complement to the black beans, queso and corn.
Nicole Cohen; bottom: Wikimedia Commons
The 616 (dine616.com) is an prime ex-
Danville Museum of Fine Arts & History
of Fine Arts & History (danvillemuseum.org), a historic home turned museum where president of the Confederacy Jefferson
ample of fine farm-to-table dining, with
Davis spent the final days of the Civil War after fleeing Richmond.
seasonal choices that include Angus steak over a bed of grits
It’s worth renting the headset to discover the story behind the
and brussels sprouts. A menu of crafted cocktails includes the
mansion’s construction, the daily life of the Sutherlin family that
Danville Scandal, with Crown Royal, amaretto, Southern Comfort
owned the home and Davis’ time there.
and fresh citrus juices. Nearby, The Historic North Theatre (thenorth theatre.com), a circa-1947 theater restored in 2005, stages various local and touring productions. To pick up some unique items, a visit to Lou’s Antique Mall (facebook.com/ lousantiquemall1) is a must. It houses three stories of wallto-wall treasures from home décor to toys. And for a local brew, check out Ballad Brewing (balladbrewing.com) and 2 Witches Winery & Brewing Co. (2witcheswinebrew.com). Save the
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A LADY IN THE HOUSE Built in 1874 and on the National Register of Historic Places, The Langhorne House (langhornehouse.org) in Danville is the birthplace of Nancy Langhorne Shaw Astor, the first woman to hold a seat in the British Parliament, a seat in the House of Commons that she would maintain for 25 years.
MAY 4, JULY 6, OCT. 19: See vintage military tanks in action at the AAF Tank Museum during its Vehicle Run Days, which are included with regular museum admission. There’s also a raffle to win a ride in a vehicle. aaftankmuseum.com S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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distributed mail. The museum moved to Fort Lee in 2001 and has since been expanded and renovated, reopening in 2018 in an 11,000-squarefoot space, about twice its original size. It’s home United States Army Women’s Museum
to one of the most comprehensive and expansive collections in the world of primary and secondary documents pertaining to the history of U.S. Army women. Women have a long history of service at Fort Lee. In 1943, after Congress approved the development of
WAC’ING STRONG Servicewomen’s role in history is celebrated in a museum at Fort Lee / By Dina Weinstein
the Women’s Auxiliary Army Corps in 1942, the first trained recruits arrived at Camp Lee. The 96th WAAC Post Headquarters Company served in administrative occupations at Camp Lee including human resources, signal and post Trapezium Brewing
office. Today, about 25 percent of base personnel are women.
There is no charge to visit the museum. To enter Fort Lee, you must present credentials including a driver’s license and vehicle insurance and registration information.
Around the Area Day trippers can make a day out of enjoying the Tri-Cities.
The images, maps, timelines, videos, artifacts and personal his-
Nearby, there’s Roslyn
tories displayed at the United States Army Women’s Museum
Landing Park, which offers
(awm.lee.army.mil), are particularly touching because of the bar-
access to the well-marked
riers women have faced participating in the armed forces since
and paved Colonial Heights
the country’s beginnings. Its exhibits tell the stories of the efforts
Appomattox River Trail System.
and the sacrifices of these pioneers, leading to the current era,
A mile-long paved path takes
in which every function in the U.S. Army is now open to women.
you to a river overlook that was
“It’s been a long road, we seek to answer why,” says Museum
once a railroad embankment.
Director Francoise Bonnell. “The displays look back on how
Signage explains the area’s in-
things have changed.”
dustrial and military history.
One of her favorite displays shows advertising used to con-
For dining options try a
vince young women to join the armed forces during World War
craft beer with pizza at Tra-
II. Back then, the messages also had to convey to their families
pezium Brewing in Peters-
that they would always be a lady and be protected. The displays
burg, or a burger with a view
also reflect the diversity of those who served, including the corps
at the Dockside Restaurant
of African-American women who were sent to Europe and
in Hopewell.
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SEPT. 28: Festival of Grapes and Hops in Petersburg celebrates the region’s brews and wines, and meads, and ciders, too. festivalofgrapesandhops.com
Lee Memorial Park, 1936
LEE PARK The lush grounds of Lee Memorial Park in Petersburg were given shape by African-American women laborers of the 1930s. They crafted paths, cleared brush and planted flowers, trees and shrubs. forgottengarden. leeparkpetersburg.org
From top: courtesy United States Army Women’s Museum; courtesy Trapezium Brewing; Tim Richards, courtesy Willcox Watershed Conservancy
There’s a one-of-a-kind museum at Fort Lee that tells of the story of the women who have made the Army all that it can be.
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A TASTE OF LIFE Nature’s abundance that inspired chef and author Edna Lewis is still evident around Orange / By Genevelyn Steele
Today, the wooded quiet alongside Bethel Baptist Church remains. Paying homage to the queen of Virginia comestibles in the countryside in which she was raised, gives context as to why our Piedmont region has culinary distinction. I passed by mushroom-dotted acres and streams feeding bass. Away from main roads, Lake Orange, a public fishing lake, laps beyond yard signs hawking eggs and fresh produce and brims with fishing boats for rent. Barboursville Vineyards
Around Orange In downtown Orange, feast at The Light Well (thelightwell.com), helmed by married partners Emily Van Santvoord and Dave Ganoe. Try shrimp and grits, onion soup, and Dave’s own beer, made behind the restaurant at their Willow Spring Brewery, which taps a hidden Orange County spring for brewing. Follow Route 20, past James Madison’s Montpellier, to Barboursville Vineyards (bbvwine.com), one of the oldest commercial vineyards in Virginia. Grapes were planted in 1976 around still-standing ruins of the 19th century Palladian home of James Barber, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson. International wine critic James Suckling has called Barboursville Octagon,
From top: courtesy Barboursville Vineyards; Simon Snogles; courtesy The Edna Lewis Foundation
a Bordeaux-style red wine, a top American wine. Sip it in the
Decades before the farm-to-table mantra was religiously chanted, the enlightened chef/author Edna Lewis described her efforts to The New York Times thusly: “As a child in Virginia, I thought all food tasted delicious. After growing up, I didn’t think food tasted the same, so it has been my lifelong ambition to try and recapture those good flavors of the past.”
Country cooking
winery tasting room or at Palladio, the upscale, Northern Italian restaurant, which nods to both Piedmonts, Italy and Virginia, on its menus.
Say cheese From the vineyards, take Route 20 to Route 29 south and westward, continuing past Charlottesville to Crozet, where 13 women seeking wisdom and truth from the land reside at Our Lady of the Angels monastery (olamonastery.org). Wheels of buttery, Dutchstyle Gouda, handmade by the sisters, are the core of their The Light Well
self-reliance. The cheese can be picked up at the monastery June through September when the nuns won’t ship due to warmer temperatures. This creamy, nutty cheese has a cultlike following and sells out by December.
Lewis grew up in Freetown, which is now known as Unionville and is about 8 miles east of downtown Orange off Highway 20. Her grandfather, Chester Lewis, and other formerly enslaved people, owned homes around Bethel Baptist Church, which they built in 1892. Lewis credits church picnics, where neighbors shared their best dishes, and her mother’s self-sufficient larder (Lewis said she only bought sugar and kerosene) for her food finesse. Save the
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ALL ABOUT EDNA Edna Lewis opened the Manhattan cafe Nicholson in 1948. Tennessee Williams, Paul Robeson and Truman Capote were regulars. Later, she founded the Society for the Revival and Preservation of Southern Food, a forerunner of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Lewis authored four cookbooks. The last, “The Gift of Southern Cooking,” was published in 2003.
MAY 18: Famous Fried Chicken Festival, Gordonsville, arts, crafts, fried chicken and pie contest and a wine garden, too. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Gordonsville Volunteer Fire Company, 301 E. Baker St. visitorangevirginia.com S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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BREAD AND ROSES
bricks, cleaned fish and fabricated buildings on-site. The Work-
A museum in Lorton will shine a brighter light on suffragists’ struggles to win the vote / By Dina Weinstein
fight for the right to vote and how women of all backgrounds
house Prison closed in 2001 and was later transformed into a museum and an art center, which opened in 2006. With an expansion and rebranding, the museum will now fully and professionally detail how Virginia played a key role in women’s were involved, fleshing out the link to human rights, abolition and labor rights.
What’s nearby Just south of Lorton, you can tank up at one of the many eat-
The story of how suffragists struggled to win women the right to vote is a Virginia story, one that will be shared at a onetime prison in Lorton that now houses an arts center and will soon be home to a museum that chronicles the suffragists who were imprisoned there for their efforts more than a century ago.
eries like Mom’s Apple Pie (momsapplepieco.com) in charming, pedestrian-friendly Occoquan. At this village with a historical feel, one can absorb the past by window shopping at the many galleries and gift shops, visiting the Occoquan Mill House Museum (occoquanva.gov/ mill-house-museum.html) or renting a kayak to gain a perspective from its namesake river.
In Alexandria The Lucy Burns Museum at the Workhouse
To see the works of other creative artists
Arts Center (workhousearts.org) is sched-
of the area in a repurposed, stylish atmo-
uled to open in early summer 2019, honoring
sphere, visit the Torpedo Factory Arts Center (torpedofactory.org) on the Potomac
Burns, a suffragist and women’s rights activist who was jailed at Lorton Prison in 1917 after
River waterfront in Alexandria. While here, be
protesting in front of the White House. Burns and
sure to check out Old Town Alexandria, with its
71 other women went on a hunger strike and refused to participate in forced labor to mark themselves as political prisoners.
beautifully preserved 18th- and 19th-century archiTorpedo Factory Arts Center
“These women were willing to die for the right to vote,” says museum director Laura McKie. “It’s not a political issue, it’s a civic
tecture. Dining options include Southern-style cuisine at Magnolia’s on King (magnoliasonking.
com) and seafood at Vola’s Dockside Grill and Hi-Tide Lounge (volasdockside.com).
responsibility issue.” The property was a District of Columbia prison and also a working farm. They also made
Lucy Burns, 1917
BE SURE TO SEE … Occoquan Regional Park (novaparks.com) is a scenic spot for a stroll. A suffragists memorial will be unveiled there in 2020 on the 100th anniversary of women gaining the right to vote in the United States. Save the
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JUNE 29: Workhouse Fireworks 2019, a half-hour choreographed fireworks display, lights the night at the Workhouse Arts Center campus. 5 to 9 p.m. workhousearts.org
Clockwise from top: Alexandria Convention & Visitors Association; K Summerer for Visit Alexandria; Library of Congress
Vola’s Dockside Grill and Hi-Tide Lounge
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more play time than travel time.
Mecklenburg County is made for exploring. Hike, bike and camp in our State Parks, Tobacco Heritage Trails and many Wildlife Management Areas. Enjoy the open waters of our rivers and lakes when you launch your vessel from one of 17 boat launches... and in your down time, enjoy a craft brew, a gourmet meal, a live music event or a stroll through our historic gardens and wineries.
More of what matters. More Mecklenburg. visitmeckva.com | #moremeck Mecklenburg.12h.0419TVL.indd 1
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This is Lynchburg. When it comes to family adventure, we’re spoiled here in Lynchburg. With 40 miles of urban trails to ride, the historic James River right at our feet and easy access to the Blue Ridge Mountains, we can reconnect with nature and loved ones at the same time. And we’d love to share our good fortune with your family! Come see why Lynchburg will be your new home for adventure.
lynchburgvirginia.org
ANNUAL STORMING OF THUNDER RIDGE MAY 19
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VIRGINIA SPORTS HERITAGE FROM STEEPLECHASES TO NASCAR RACES 58/ STUART 59/ VIRGINIA BEACH 60/ LYNCHBURG
Photo courtesy Middleburg Spring Races
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GOOD SPORTS Middleburg Spring Races
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ing options include El Rancho, which Fairy Stone State Park
is open daily and has traditional TexMex fare. The Honduras Coffee Shop (hondurascoffeeshop.com) down Main Street serves breakfast and lunch. There’s coffee, of course, and also beer, wine, freshly squeezed lemonade and specialty sweet frozen drinks on its menu. The coffee shop is open weekdays and Saturdays.
Trails and minerals Fairy Stone State Park (dcr.virginia. gov) north of Stuart is massive, at 4,741 acres. It takes its name from a unique mineral, staurolite, which can be found in and around the park. There’s an 18acre lake with a sand beach and swimming in season, and boating and fishing opportunities, too. We hiked a bit of the lakeshore trail on our visit, one of 11 trails rated easy to difficult.
FAST CARS AND FAIRY STONES Find NASCAR legends and unique minerals in Patrick County / By Tharon Giddens
Racing about Stuart is home to one of NASCAR’s longest-running race teams, Wood Brothers Racing. It was founded in 1950 by family patriarch Glen Wood, who got his start on local tracks. He went on to race in Daytona, earned four wins on the NASCAR circuit early on, and was honored as one of the 50-greatest NASCAR drivers. Wood died in January at age 93. The team has 99 wins over seven decades. Learn about their story at the The Wood Brothers Racing Museum (woodbrothersracing.com) through its collection of race team paraphernalia, including cars, uniforms, trophies and photos.
Farm life Tobacco maven R.J. Reynolds spent his formative years at the family homestead in nearby Critz. The Reynolds Homestead (https:// www.reynoldshomestead.vt.edu) is now operated by Virginia Tech as a Commonwealth Campus
Ups and downs
Center, and includes the es-
You’ll get a great workout walking
tate home, Rock Springs
about the hills that are home to the
Plantation, which dates to
county seat of Stuart (townofstuartva.
the 1840s. Explore various out
com). It’s a lovely village with great
buildings, including a restored
views all around. It’s easy to feel at home,
tobacco barn, and cemeteries.
here: It’s been decades since I’ve been
slaved people at the plantation
on the upper portion of Main Street (literally upper in this hillside
graves marked with more than
district) touts its one-of-a-kind, vintage pieces. Downtown din-
a single stone.
Wanda’s Estate and Custom Jewelry
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Walking the cemetery of the enTobacco barn at Reynolds Homestead
chatted-up so much while on a stroll.
is particularly poignant, with few
JUNE 7-15: The Crooked Road’s Mountains of Music Homecoming. A celebration of Appalachian music and culture at venues across southwest Virginia. Galax Old Fiddler’s Convention favorites perform June 10 at Reynolds Homestead. mtnsofmusic.com
TRACK MARKS Virginia Motorsports Museum and Hall of Fame, celebrates the commonwealth’s racing heritage. It’s open limited hours on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and by appointment. Call 276-694-5554.
Clockwise from top: Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation; Patrick County Chamber of Commerce; Tharon Giddens
A weekend getaway to Patrick County in southwest Virginia entails a bit less than a four-hour drive from Richmond, but it’s worth the trip to explore Stuart, a quiet country town that’s home to one of NASCAR’s oldest racing teams, and to tour one of Virginia’s oldest state parks, and the boyhood home of a tobacco industry titan, too.
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BEYOND THE BOARDWALK
(theroyalchocolate.com), the ultimate stop where sugary scents entice passerby. Try its toffee crunch for a needed afternoon delight. Soon-to-open bistros include Cantina Laredo, Macaron Tart and Lamia’s Crepes.
Virginia Beach’s Town Center and the Vibe district are rich in dining, shopping and entertainment experiences / By Eileen Mellon
Organically organic There’s a compact collection of farm-focused eateries, bakeries and markets to explore in the Vibe Creative District (vibecreativedistrict.org). Natural light pours into Veg Out Gardens (vegoutgardens.com), a certified organic grower of vegetables and herbs that carries strictly Virginia-based products. The storefront features local meats from Pungo Tuck, eggs from
Although a trip east to Virginia Beach isn’t complete without a stop by the waterfront, the city is stepping up its game with offerings beyond sand and seascapes.
Mt. Pleasant Farms, heavily caffeinated blends from JP5 and Richmond’s Hummingbird Gardens salts. Next door is Commune (communevb.com), a farm-to-table restaurant from former farmer Kevin Jamison, dishing out breakfast and lunch. Sorghum pancakes, fluffy ancient grain
Downtown vibes
discs with hickory syrup and the heirloom grit
Town Center (vabeachtowncenter.com) is a
bowl present sustainable Southern specialties.
hub fit for the whole family, a mini metropolis
Across the street is a sister operation, Prosperity Kitchen & Pantry (prosperitykitchenva.
of shops, eateries and events including outdoor concerts and wine and beer festivals. The newly
com), a chic, spacious bakery and pizza joint that
opened Sandler Center for the Performing Arts (sandlercenter.org) and Zeiders American Dream Clockwise from top: Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau; Eric Lusher/VBCVB; Virginia Sports Hall of Fame
Theater (thez.org) provide platforms for national acts
tests self-control. Their Roman-style pies, crafted on Sandler Center for the Performing Arts
bread that evolves over a three-day fermentation process, reinvents a classic bite in an ingenious way. Stop by Java Surf Café (javasurf.com/index.
and local artists, writers and performers. Town Center is home to chain restaurants like Ruth’s Chris
html), a brightly colored, can’t-miss coffeehouse, and get a buzz
Steak House, and it’s also sprinkled with less-known restau-
before embarking on a walk around the art district. The area is
rants, including Tupelo Honey (tupelohoneycafe.com/location/
packed with pockets of murals from beach-based artists, side-
virginia-beach), an Asheville-based eatery with Southern-influ-
walk art, more than 50 fence murals and sculpture installations.
enced roots led by four-time James Beard Award semifinalist Chef Eric
Town Center
Gabrynowicz, and Royal Chocolate
TIME OUT The Virginia Sports Hall of Fame (vasportshof.com) isn’t your typical museum experience. There’s no one site: Instead, there’s an interactive walking tour that takes you to six sites around a cluster of high-rises in downtown Virginia Beach. Save the
DATE
MAY 4-5: The Atlantic Coast Kite Festival takes place seaside between 16th and 18th streets. Free, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on May 4 and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on May 5. liveonatlantic.com S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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Lynchburg Community Market
Just a few steps away was our intended destination, the Lynchburg Community Market (lynchburg communitymarket.com), a popular year-round indoor-outdoor farmer’s market with a history that dates to 1783. The market has been in its current location since 1932, and it reminded me of the markets I grew up with in Central Pennsylvania — you’ll find everything from country cooking and Vietnamese fare to local honey and collard greens.
Hikes and bikes We met former Lynchburg Mayor Jim Whitaker on our way out. At his suggestion, we headed down 12th Street to hook up with the Lower Bluff Walk, a pedestrian corridor overlooking the James River that’s dotted with restaurants. Had it been warmer, I would have liked to explore the Blackwater Creek Trail, a 3-mile paved trail accessible f rom downtown that links to other trails. Bikes Unlimited (bikesunlimited.com) rents bikes for
HISTORIC HILLS The past is always present in Lynchburg / By Jessica Ronky Haddad
those who want to explore on two wheels. We stopped at The Depot Grille (depotgrille.com), along the riverfront, and enjoyed a salad and a burger in this historic train station converted to a casual restaurant. Old City Cemetery
Grave concerns Our next stop was across town at Old City Cemetery (gravegarden.org), another must-see on
Save the
DATE 60
the former mayor’s list. It’s the oldest municipal cemetery in Virginia that’s still in use. Five small museums dot its rolling hills, as does the largest public collection of antique roses in Virginia. The Pest House Medical Museum is a two-room house that once served as the medical office of
BACK IN TIME
Lynchburg country doctor John Jay Terrell. Visi-
Lynchburg physician Robert Walter “Whirlwind” Johnson in 1941 built a tennis court next to his home because African-Americans couldn’t join country clubs. Wimbledon champions Althea Gibson and Arthur Ashe both trained there. whirlwindjohnson.org
tors are invited to peer into its windows to see a re-creation of a 19th-century medical office. Another room re-creates conditions that those who were quarantined with diseases such as smallpox would have experienced — it’s grim. A few blocks away lies the Pierre Street Renaissance Historic District, where you’ll find the Anne Spencer House & Garden Museum (annespencermuseum.com). Spencer was a Harlem Renaissance poet and Civil Rights activist.
MAY 4: The International Festival celebration includes cultural presentations and performances, food, crafts and arts, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Riverfront Park, 1100 Jefferson St. lynchburgva.gov/internationalfestival
Courtesy City of Lynchburg; bottom: Whirlwind Johnson Foundation
About a two-hour drive from Richmond at the eastern edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains, a day trip to Lynchburg is an easy getaway. On a recent Saturday, my husband and I began our visit on Main Street, where we were drawn into Galaxie Modern (galaxiemodern.com) by its window display of sleek Midcentury furniture. Inside, we found an outstanding collection of mint-condition furniture, lighting, art and décor. We struck up a conversation with owner John Wormuth, who opened the store about nine years ago and says he’s seen a lot of growth in downtown Lynchburg since then.
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 9
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THE THRILL OF THE HUNT COUNTRY Traditions, treasures and tipples in Middleburg / By Mandy Loy Travel west along U.S. Route 50 in Northern Virginia, skirting the southwestern border of Loudoun County, and the rolling hills and stacked stone walls flecked with lichen will unfold toward the 18th-century town of Middleburg, so named for its position midway between Alexandria and Winchester. Home to fewer than 1,000 residents, the ’burg offers a wealth of attractions for a destination its size.
After the fox Fox hunting — more accurately described as
Middleburg Spring Races
fox chasing in recent years — has been a be-
Clockwise from top: Middleburg Spring Races; Mandy Loy; Justin Kriel, Salamander Hotels & Resorts
loved tradition in these parts since the early 20th century, with horsemanship, hound control, fashion and
offers refined lodging and a variety of dining experiences rang-
socializing now the top priorities. The Middleburg Spring Races
ing from a pub setting to outdoor dining on the Garden Terrace
(middleburgspringraces.com) are Virginia’s oldest steeplechase,
and local, seasonal meals at the Culinary Table. King Street Oys-
with the 99th running taking place April 20 at Glenwood Park Race
ter Bar (kingstreetoysterbar.com), which also has a location in
Course (fancy hats encouraged). The National Sporting Library
nearby Leesburg, offers a rotating daily selection of its namesake
& Museum (nationalsporting.org) houses a research library and
bivalve along with other seafood specialties in a stylish nautical-
art museum dedicated to “country pursuits” from
themed setting. Find high-end antiques, home decor, upscale
angling to horsemanship.
clothing shops and art galleries along Washington Street, the town’s main drag, and pop into The Fun Shop (thefunshop.
Libation destinations
com) for a little something different; founded in 1956, the
You’ll see the cider barn for Mt. Defiance
store specializes in toys,
Cidery & Distillery (mtdefiance.com)
Middleburg-centric gifts
when heading into town from the east,
and various curiosities.
but pop into the smaller downtown distillery to sample a selection of ciders and small-batch spirits, including house-made
Salamander Resort & Spa
Relax For a getaway during your
absinthe, now very legal and very traditionally
getaway, visit the Forbes Five-
served with old-time accoutrements. Wineries are
Star Salamander Resort & Spa
plentiful in Loudoun County, and some of the Middleburg pur-
(salamanderresort.com), lux-
veyors include the adults-only Greenhill Winery & Vineyards
ury accommodations on 340
(greenhillvineyards.com), 50 West Vineyards (50westvineyards.
acres complemented by a lav-
com) and Chrysalis Vineyards (chrysaliswine.com), which spe-
ish 23,000-square-foot spa and
cializes in growing Virginia’s own Norton grapes.
wellness center and a variety of
Eat & shop
activities including art classes, bike tours, archery and even
Touted as the oldest continuously operating inn in the United
cocktails with Cupcake, the re-
States, the Red Fox Inn & Tavern (redfox.com) dates to 1728 and
sort’s resident miniature horse.
Save the
DATE
BY THE OLD MILL STREAM Just east of Middleburg on U.S. Route 50 is the early 19th-century Aldie Mill (novaparks.com). Tour the historic park and see grinding demonstrations on weekends from April to November.
APRIL 28: Middleburg Hunt Point to Point steeplechase also features tailgate competitions, prizes for the best bonnet and best tie, and plenty of opportunity to see and be seen. middleburghunt.com/pointtopoint.html S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 0 1 9
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DATES WITH SOME HISTORY
No matter where your travels take you, the past is always present in Virginia. American Evolution, the 2019 Commemoration, is a statewide observance of some crucial events that occurred in 1619 that continue to have an impact on the commonwealth and beyond. Here is a sampling of some of the commemorative events across the state.
THROUGH APRIL 21
MAY 5 Virginia Folklife Apprenticeship Showcase, noon to 5 p.m., James Monroe’s Highland, Charlottesville. Celebration of Virginia crafts, music and food with folk masters and their apprentices including gospel singers, hotrod car builders, moonshine makers, contortionists, jazz and swing guitarists and Galax dulcimer musicians. Free. virginiafolklife.org
APRIL 25-28 Virginia International Tattoo, Norfolk. Annual event features more than 1,000 performers, including fife and drum bands, military combos, drill teams, bagpipers and step dancers. Look for the Swiss Army Central Band and the OzScot Australia Highland Dancers. Part of the Virginia Arts Festival. $20 and up. vafest.org
MAY 11 Charter Day, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Dumfries. The city celebrates its founding in 1749 with a festival featuring living history demonstrations, foods, crafts and activities for children. historicdumfriesva.org
JUNE 8-NOV. 17 Cosmologies from the Tree of Life: Art from the African American South, Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, Richmond. Sculptures, paintings, quilts and other works from artists including Thornton Dial, Jimmy Lee Sudduth and Rita May Pettway. Free. vmfa.museum
JUNE 19-MARCH 29, 2020 Determined: The 400-Year Struggle for Black Equality, Virginia Museum of History and Culture, Richmond. An exhibition featuring more than 100 objects and multi-media exploration of the fight for freedom and justice. virginiahistory.org
JULY 30 Commemoration of the first legislative assembly meeting, Historic Jamestowne and Jamestown Settlement, Williamsburg. Event will include members of Congress, Virginia legislators and state legislators from across the nation. americanevolution2019.com
AUG. 25
Fort Monroe Healing Day, 3 to 7 p.m. Continental Park, Fort Monroe National Monument. This event billed as a day of reconciliation and healing for all commemorates the 1619 arrival of the first Africans in North America. About 20 enslaved Africans landed at Point Comfort, which became the site of Fort Monroe. fortmonroehealingday.com
OCT. 14 Voices From The Garden, dedication ceremony for the Virginia Women’s Monument, Capitol Square. womensmonumentcom.virginia.gov
ONGOING: You can also create your own adventure with The Virginia History Trails app for your smart phone. The free application lets you find historical sites around your current location, plan trips and learn more about Virginia history and culture in general. It is available at Google Play or the App Store.
64
NOVEMBER Virginia Customs, Cultures, and Cuisine Festival, various sites. Events include the exploration of 400 years of foods during Fire, Flour and Fork in Richmond on Nov. 2; Virginia Thanksgiving Festival on Nov. 3 at Berkeley Plantation in Charles City County; and the Pocahontas Reframed: Storytellers Film Festival, Nov. 21-24 at The Byrd Theatre in Richmond. americanevolution2019.com
From top: courtesy Virginia Arts Festival; Pat Jarrett, courtesy Virginia Humanities; courtesy Hampton Convention & Visitor Bureau; courtesy StudioEIS and 1717 Design Group; Gary Smith Images, courtesy Berkeley Plantation
American Adventure, Virginia Living Museum, Newport News. Role-playing, immersive history lessons on life-and-death decisions affecting the English settlers at Jamestown in 1607. Included with regular museum admission. thevlm.org
RVA T R AV E L E R 2 0 1 9
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