Pro Grow New Winter 2025 Digital Edition

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pro grow news

PRESIDENT

Kerry Preston, MCH Wisteria & Rose, Inc. (617) 522-3843

VICE PRESIDENT

David Vetelino, MCH Vetelino Lanscape Inc.

Tel: (781) 826-0004

SECRETARY/TREASURER

Dave Anderson Mayer Tree

Tel: (978) 768-6999

PAST PRESIDENT

Chris O’Brien, MCH Howard Designs, Inc.

Tel: (617) 244-7269

DIRECTORS

Steve Davis, MCH Bigelow Nurseries, Inc

Laura DiCarlo, MCH Cavicchio Greenhouses, Inc.

Justin Mortensen Farm Credit East

Patrick Parent Mahoney’s Garden Centers

Kelly Perry, MCH Swan Point Cemetery

EDUCATION & RESEARCH COMMITTEE

Deborah Trickett, MCH

The Captured Gardens (781) 329-9698

FINANCIAL COMMITTEE (FINCOM)

Steve Corrigan, MCH — Chair

Mountain View Landscapes & Lawncare, Inc.

Tel: (413) 536-7555

GOVERNMENT RELATIONS COMMITTEE

Chris O’Brien, MCH

Howard Designs, Inc.

Tel: (617) 244-7269

HISTORY COMMITTEE

Philip Boucher, MCH — Chair

Elysian Garden Designs

Tel: (508) 695-9630

Skott Rebello, MCH — Vice Chair Harborside P.S.

Tel: (508) 994-9208

MARKETING COMMITTEE

Justin Mortensen - Chair

Farm Credit East

Tel.: (508) 946-4455

MASSACHUSETTS CERTIFIED HORTICULTURIST BOARD (MCH)

Corinne Jean, MCH — Chair Wisteria & Rose (617) 522-3843

Advisor: Jack Elicone, MCH John R. Elicone Consulting

MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE

David Ahronian, MCH - Chair Ahronian Landscape & Design, Inc. (508) 429-3844

PUBLICATIONS:

Editor in Chief: Rena Sumner MNLA Reporter: Amber Ahronian Advisors: Rick Reuland, Trevor Smith, Beverly Sturtevant

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Rena M. Sumner

Tel: (413) 369-4731 mnlaoffice@aol.com

LEGISLATIVE DIRECTOR

John V. Fernandes Attorney at Law

The Holiday Spectacular

I’m tired, I’m cold, I’m dehydrated, and I am covered in glitter and sap. It’s dark out when I get up and go to work, it’s dark out while I am out there hanging the garland, and yes, it is dark out when I drag myself home at the end of the day.

I have an acceptable glitter contamination zone at my house where I can leave the top layer of outerwear when I come home at night. When I finally look in the mirror and see that my face is covered with red and gold sparkles, I seriously ask myself if it is worth the effort to shower this all off. It’s just going to come back tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day, and the next day…

This, my friends, is holiday decorating season. You might not know of this phenomenon, or maybe you are curious about what a day decorating the doors and windows of Metro Boston entails. You may want to know if it is worth the effort. Is glitter really necessary? How long does it take to hang a garland and a wreath? Where do we get all that stuff? Well, buckle up, I am about to tell you the dirty details.

• Timing. Holiday decorating for next year starts at the end of this year. What? How is that possible or even necessary? For one, the trauma of the pinecones and sap, the horrible décor, plus the elation of gorgeous ribbon, spectacular swags, and stunningly lit garlands are all fresh in your mind at the end of December. This is when we make notes and preorder for next Christmas. We catalog client preferences and photos so we can see what works and what does not.

We ramp up slowly starting at the beginning of November. The installation schedule is TIGHT!!! Only two — or sometimes three — weeks are acceptable for the full-on Holiday Spectacular. Some people are OK before Thanksgiving, but most people want their glitter shining and their lights twinkling starting the weekend after Thanksgiving. And if that wreath is not up by the end of that first week of December, you might as well forget about it. You missed the window.

• Production: Our company enjoys making and producing most of our live décor. We get into the assortment of greenery colors and how they interact with the faux décor and pinecones we use. Ribbon is also a source of pride for us. Each client gets a different ribbon, and their bow coordinates with

their wreath and garland. Everyone on our team is involved in production to some capacity: There are bow makers, swag town workers, pinecone princesses, holiday illumination technicians, and the hang team. For these two weeks, we come together to bring cheer to the neighborhoods we work in.

• Installation: Nothing will change the schedule once we hit go-time. Parties are still happening in the snow and rain so those garlands and wreaths must go up. We have installed décor in heavy snow, freezing rain, and brutally cold weather. There is no option to bump the day ahead because then we might miss the window of opportunity. This is where you get to know your rain gear and long underwear. Just keep adding layers and hand warmers.

Why do we take this on? There is no denying the stress of the deadline, the uncomfortable working conditions, the very long days, the ladder work, the cold, and the general feeling that it will never end. But honestly, it does end, and quickly. Clients and people on the street are thrilled. Everyone loves the look of a lit garland that brings out joy and hope and happiness for the festivities ahead.

It might seem daunting to get started on this path. After all, there are still cleanups to do, bulbs to plant, and sometimes snow and ice to deal with. But I assure you, it is worth it — financially and professionally. Send some photos of your holiday décor. I would love to see it!

All my Best,

MCH Corner — Committee Reports

Plant Geek ‘25

MCHPlant Geek Day 2024 at the Franklin Park Zoo in Boston was a day filled with excitement, learning, and a touch of summer heat. The event kicked off with a warm welcome over breakfast, accompanied by the majestic presence of nearby giraffes, setting a unique tone for the day.

Attendees celebrated the achievements of the newly certified Massachusetts Certified Horticulturists (MCHs) who had successfully passed their winter and summer exams, marking an important milestone in their careers. The day continued with an engaging seminar led by Josh Meyer, the Zoo’s Horticultural Curator, who shared valuable insights on planting various bare-root trees and how they fared during their first year, offering attendees practical knowledge for their own horticultural endeavors.

Later in the day, participants broke into several groups for tours around the zoo, learning about the zoo’s horticultural practices. This was the highlight for many, as they explored the fascinating intersection of plants and animals. Entertaining stories about Paublo, the gorilla, and the condors added an extra layer of enjoyment. Cass Bidwell, my group’s tour guide, left everyone impressed and intrigued. The group returned just in time for the “Soil and Healthy Trees” talk hosted by Wei Zhang, PhD, where we learned about soil and the innovative concept of tree diapers.

We wrapped up the event with lunch and a test run of Horticulture Family Feud. After a slow start, we began to figure things out, and I think there’s potential for this to be a fun addition to the Winter Forum. Thank you to everyone who attended and to our sponsors for making it possible. This was another great Plant Geek Day for the books!

Have ideas for 2025? Send your suggestions to mnlaoffice@gmail.com.

Corinne Jean, MCH

Wisteria & Rose

MCH Chair

Congratulations to the New 2024 MCHs

Amber Ahronian, MCH

Jennifer Brunelle, MCH Greenleaf Designer Gardens LLC

Mike Casinelli, MCH City of Quincy

Matthew Cembrola, MCH Cacicchio Greenhouse, Inc.

Steven Christie, MCH R.P. Marzilli

Indra Clark, MCH Maritima Gardening & Design

Gregory Concannon, MCH Northeastern University

John Flavin, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Andrew Foley, MCH Mainstay Landscape

Michael Gagne, MCH Bigelow Nurseries

Heather Halsey, MCH Heather Garden Design

William Haskell, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Sawyer James Hussey, MCH Merrifield Garden & Design

Jennifer King, MCH Joyce Landscaping

Darren King Tomasi Nurseries LLC

Jon Kraus, MCH Laurel Gardens

Laura DiCarlo, MCH Cavicchio Greenhouse, Inc.

Shane Ludden, MCH Anderson Landscape Construction, Inc

Jeffrey Mathieu, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Marc Mertz, MCH H.F. Johnson Tree Farms

Adam Monroy, MCH Zen Associates

Todd Patch, MCH W.T. Leroyer Landscape and Design

Ian Penman, MCH Hartney Greymont

Eva Pepe, MCH Rouvalis Flower & Gardens

Peri D’Amico, MCH Bigelow Nurseries

Sophia Pilling, MCH Sweetfern Gardening

Adam Prata, MCH Natureworks Landscape Services, Inc.

Olivia Santamaria, MCH Terrascapes Landscape Design

Ellen Scheid, MCH

Mary May Binney Wakefield Arboretum

Anthony Serra, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Katelyn Spanholtz, MCH Peabody Essex Museum

Justin Taymore, MCH Zen Associates

Jeanine Whelan, MCH Lassana’s Landscaping, Inc.

Kelly Young, MCH Northeastern University

Franklin Park Zoo’s Boston Lights — A Beautiful Artistic Display
Some of Our New 2024 MCHs and MCH Board of Directors Enjoying Plant Geek ‘24

Governmental Relations —

NALP Endorses Rep. Correa’s Federal Tax Credit for the Purchase of Zero-Emission Equipment for Landscape Businesses

The National Association of Landscape Professionals

welcomes and endorses Representative Correa’s (D-CA) introduction of the Promoting Reduction of Emissions Through Landscaping Equipment Act, which creates a federal tax credit to enable landscaping businesses of all sizes to transition to zero-emission equipment.

The bill provides a 40% credit for businesses on the purchase of zero-emission equipment, such as mowers, leaf blowers, hedgers, and accessories up to $25,000 every year and up to $100,000 over the course of 10 consecutive years. The tax credit, which applies to any equipment purchased on or after January 1, 2023, also extends to retrofitting equipment that transforms gas power devices to zero-emission.

“This bill, which would help landscape companies offset some of the cost of transitioning from gas to zero-emission

equipment, is an important model for legislation supporting the business community while also protecting the environment,” said Britt Wood, CEO of the National Association of Landscape Professionals. “We applaud Rep. Correa for his leadership on this important issue.”

Landscape professionals work every day to take care of our nation’s green spaces. NALP supports a responsible transition to zero-emission equipment, which takes time due to needed electrical infrastructure updates, new equipment purchases, and technician training. The proposed bill will help speed the transition by providing resources through tax incentives that support quicker transition.

NALP appreciates the support from many of our federal and state allies that have also endorsed the Act including the Massachusetts Nursery and Landscape Association.

Overwintering Container Plants

If I had to choose one word to describe the approach taken by most growers over the past few seasons, it would be “conservative.” Faced with rising labor costs, economic uncertainty, and a return to pre-pandemic levels of demand, we’ve become more focused than ever on avoiding overproduction, reducing shrink, and minimizing risk. And when it comes to nursery production, one of the riskiest actions we can take is overwintering plants. In general, the more time we introduce into the life cycle of a crop, from the time of planting to the time of sales, the greater the probability of loss due to disease, weather, shelf life, or other factors both within and outside of our control. So, turning crops as quickly as possible is typically in our best interest.

For most of us, though, overwintering crops for spring sales is crucial if we want to be ready to hit the ground running in time for our most important season of the year. At Mariani Plants, all our finished production takes place outside in cold frames, so our inventory for spring sales must be potted by the end of the previous summer (if not earlier). This allows our crops to root in and put on growth prior to winter, so they can be ready to ship in March, April, and May.

The Root of the Matter

The major factor differentiating containerized plants from those in the landscape or field is that their roots aren’t

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buffered from cold and fluctuating temperatures. This matters because the roots of a plant are significantly less coldtolerant than the shoots. In fact, roots don’t go dormant in the winter; they simply stop growing when exposed to the cold. While they can acclimate to cold temperatures and acquire a level of cold hardiness, studies have shown that they can also de-acclimate and lose all cold tolerance in as little as 24 hours over the course of a warm day.

For growers, this means that we must do everything possible to insulate the root systems of our crops. This includes consolidating plants pot to pot, positioning plants away from the edges of the overwintering structures, winterizing hoophouses to minimize cold air gaps, and covering hoophouses with an overwintering poly. For marginal plants, like warm season grasses, extra protection from frost blankets may be needed during cold spells.

Timing is Everything

avoid fertilizing and pruning too late in the season, since this promotes flushes of tender new growth just before the cold weather hits.

We also need to consider timing as it relates to covering crops for winter. As a general rule, it’s best that we wait to cover until the plants have stopped actively growing but before subfreezing temperatures arrive. Of course, our ability to be flexible when it comes to timing has its limits. Many of us rely on a seasonal labor force, for example. So, as is the case with most aspects of our industry, we do the best we can when we can, with the resources we have, when the weather allows us to.

When it comes to dormancy and hardiness, timing plays a ubiquitous role. First and foremost, it’s essential that crops are planted in time to establish healthy root systems before winter. This is especially true for perennials. Plants that are wellrooted, but not rootbound, have a greater chance of surviving winter right out of the gate. It’s also important to

Timing is also a major factor in ways that are beyond our control. The process by which plants acclimate to the cold is complex and dependent on a number of factors, including the genetic makeup of the plants and their physiological stage. In general, though, there are two possible scenarios that pose the greatest threat to our crops in terms of cold damage. One of these occurs when we have a warm fall followed by rapid freezing temperatures. When this happens, the crops aren’t fully acclimated when freezing temperatures arrive. In our second scenario, plants begin to de-acclimate with warm temperatures in early spring and are then susceptible to cold damage from late spring frosts and freezes. We typically have the least to worry about in terms of cold damage during the middle of winter when plants are at their hardiest. Unfortunately, extreme

Frost Blankets on Warm Season Grasses
Insulation Barrier at Bottom Edge
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swings in temperature are becoming the norm and not the exception as our climate continues to change, so our best bet is to do whatever we can to insulate our crops from temperature fluctuations as much as possible. It’s also a good idea to vent plants as soon as temperatures begin to rise in the spring in order to slow the deacclimation process, since the shoots of most plants lose their cold tolerance very quickly at that stage.

Water Management

As with most other aspects of growing, proper water management is key when it comes to successfully overwintering container plants. Essentially, we want to water everything in well to avoid desiccation without overwatering. This is easier said than done, especially if your nursery doesn’t have easy access to water throughout the winter months, but it’s absolutely crucial. For one thing, water gives off heat when it freezes, so wet soil doesn’t freeze as quickly as dry soil. Container plants are susceptible to desiccation injury in the winter when the tops are transpiring faster than they can take up water. This can happen when the soil freezes and water uptake is completely shut down. Plants that lose their foliage in fall are obviously less susceptible to desiccation than those that don’t, but

covering with an overwintering film that protects crops from wind and diffuses light makes a big difference.

Preventive Fungicides

Overwatering increases the risk of root and crown rots, especially in winter, but some plants are also more prone to diseases like Phytopthora, Pythium, Fusarium, and Rhizoctonia. At Mariani Plants, we typically treat healthy but susceptible crops with a preventive fungicide drench in fall, at least twice, when

the soil is moist but not saturated. It’s also important to assess production areas that are prone to standing water and either take steps to improve drainage or to elevate plants off the ground. This is especially important in spring when temperatures begin to rise and we’re faced with melting snow and rain.

Fine-Tuning Your Product Mix

One of the simplest actions we can take when it comes to increasing the success of our spring inventory is to simply limit overwintering the varieties that are

Venting in Spring

problematic for us. As growers, we naturally want to say yes to all our customers’ requests. But if we don’t feel confident in our ability to consistently overwinter certain crops, then we shouldn’t commit to supplying them in the spring. It may be that the plants are marginally hardy or diseaseprone or that we don’t have the infrastructure (like heated growing houses) needed to keep them alive through the winter. But, whatever the reason, we need to be honest with ourselves and our customers, stick to the varieties that we feel good about growing, and drop those that end up costing us more than they’re worth.

If you ask five different growers to explain their overwintering techniques, I’m willing to bet you won’t hear five identical answers. We all have our own preferred practices and methods that have worked for us over the years. Maybe we adopted them from someone who came before us, or maybe we adapted old techniques to meet our current challenges and circumstances. (It’s most likely a mix of these two scenarios.)

But I’m guessing that losing plants over the winter is something we’ve all experienced at some point in our careers. And when that happens, we’re compelled to understand why so we can prevent it from happening again. When it comes to our industry, summer and fall may be uncertain, but we better be ready for spring. So we need to do whatever it takes to protect what are, arguably, our most valuable crops of the entire season.

Landscape Design for

Tree huggers get it. The myriad benefits of trees in the landscape include the value of cooling our environments through shading contributions and evapotranspiration of water. Well-positioned trees in residential landscapes, while offering scale, beauty, and function, can also help save homeowners money on both cooling and heating bills. The U.S. Department of Energy states that “carefully positioned trees can save up to 25% of the energy that a typical household uses.” With energy bills of perpetual concern for homeowners (heating and cooling comprise 50% of a household’s annual energy consumption), consider the value of intentional selection and placement of plant material to not only shade the home but maximize available solar access for warming in the winter. Screening and reducing winter wind velocity with windbreaks is an additional option.

Easier said...?

When I’m designing a landscape, consultations with the homeowner frequently include topics like the location of

decks, patios, screening, and other functional allocations to consider in the design process. Shading those areas of congregation and gathering is certainly important. These discussions are essential but how often does the conversation progress to consider crafting a landscape that helps maximize energy efficiency of the residence and result in a significant return on investment? Designing for beauty will always be a goal, but imagine design layouts that address how to specifically modify the climate around the home by reducing both heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. Presenting and promoting landscape options that positively affect energy use year-round that further results in saving energy dollars for the homeowner is not a hard sell. Decreased energy demands will additionally reduce carbon dioxide emissions related to energy generation. The residential sector currently accounts for approximately 20% of energy-related greenhouse gas emissions directly related to heating and cooling.

On those hot summer days, we naturally seek out shaded respites. The contributions of trees in shaded settings like parks can lower surrounding air temperatures between 9 to

Energy Efficiency

12 degrees F. This is measurably significant. A great example of cooling amongst urban heat islands can be found in parks such as Central Park. The USDA Forest Service unsurprisingly offers this strong statement regarding trees: “By transpiring water, altering windspeeds, shading surfaces, and modifying the storage and exchange of heat among urban surfaces, trees affect local climate and thereby influence thermal comfort and air quality.” When addressing how to positively affect energy use on the micro-scale for our clients, these landscape design tips are focused on addressing solar exposure of the structure for heating and cooling as well as modifying winds for maximum energy efficiency.

In the United States, 75% of homes have air conditioners that are providing cooling services at the annual expense of $29 billion. With variable weather patterns, concerns about global warming, and fluctuating energy costs, the notion that the landscape can help mitigate annual expenses on energy use is something we should be sharing with our clients. It’s estimated that 50% of the unwanted summer heat warming of our homes comes from sun shining through the windows. In the peak of summer, twice the solar energy comes through the east and west facing windows as opposed to windows to the south due to high sun angles. Do consider, however, that in those winter months, the winter sun reaching the structure

is equally important for helping warm the home and reduce those heating bills. Observe the orientation of the home to identify those windows that would most benefit by summer shading by deciduous trees that will later allow welcome solar energy access after losing foliage in autumn. More energy-efficient windows, overhangs, and other shading strategies will also help lessen some solar inputs in the hotter months.

Practical Options

Our roofs, sidewalks, driveways and other surfaces also absorb light and heat, thereby affecting the microclimate. This is where tree shading benefits are additionally effective. Tree shading has been proven to be the most cost-effective way to reduce solar heat gain on the structure and cut air conditioning bills. It’s of no surprise that the loss of a large shade tree in proximity to the home results in a significant increase in cooling bills. I remember reading about the impact on energy bills in those neighborhoods that lost their American elms (77 million) in the 1970s due to Dutch elm disease. The air conditioning bills for those neighborhoods skyrocketed after the loss of that beneficial shading. It’s likely that the significant loss of ash trees due to emerald ash borer is having an effect as well. However, there is still a vast assortment of woody candidates for consideration to maximize shading benefits that as we know, come with time and patience!

The challenge with placement of trees in the landscape is not simply about location but considering the site, soils, and other factors that might dictate specific selections. Many of the studies

What Works

Maples (Acer), honeylocust (Gleditsia), hybrid elms (Ulmus), lindens (Tilia), ginkgos (Ginkgo), and until recently, ash (Fraxinus) have been promoted as faster

regarding the best siting for medium to large trees for shading of windows and portions of the roof indicate 20-25’ from the structure. Placement closer to a corner (15’) is acceptable and while trees to the south may have ornamental merit, consider low solar angles in winter and the importance of winter sun reaching those windows. As mentioned above, shade provided from even larger trees to the south may have some value on roof shading but the shadows are cast fairly straight down with peak summer solar angles. Tree benefits increase over time and in the case of shading to the east and west of the structure, having deciduous selections that will extend 10’ and more above the height of the windows will have the most immediate and substantial impact over time. The number one priority placement for energy-efficient contributions from shade is to the west of the structure. Placement to the east is the next priority. The U.S. Department of Energy had indicated that the proper placement of three appropriate trees for shading can result in an average household savings of $100–$250 annually.

growing selections with good canopy coverage for shading. This is not an all-inclusive list as there are many other selections and if smaller, ornamental trees are desired, they can be placed closer to the home and still provide window shading benefits. The growth rate and mature size of any potential selection

should be considered. Evergreens close to the home, while providing welcome shade in the summer months, will provide that same shading (now unwelcome!) in the winter months. Maximizing solar exposure of the structure in winter is vital although the branching patterns of deciduous selections during dormancy will still cast shade and may block up to 1/3 of the desirable solar heat for winter warming. This “transmissivity” varies by species but is a consideration down the road as decisions are made to thin canopies or raise/alter tree crowns.

Two other considerations for energy savings related to landscaping closer to the home include foundation plants and the air conditioner. Air conditioners, when shaded, can have a 10–40% increase in efficiency, which makes sense on those hottest of days. Maintaining air circulation around the unit and keeping the area tidy is important but provide some shade for those units. Foundation plantings are always part of our design process but consider the value of these plantings in providing some insulation along the foundation and buffering those winter winds. Evergreen selections are particularly effective. Do provide space between plantings and the structure for air circulation and an avenue for maintenance.

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Winter weather, while quite variable, can still be brutal on our landscapes, residences, and heating bills. Those deciduous trees placed for summer shading will now be allowing sunlight to reach the roof and windows of the home to provide some welcome heating. Winter winds buffeting the home and infiltrating our door and window frames become challenging to manage. Home modifications to address proper insulation are common. However, consider the value of a windbreak in mitigating the unchallenged arctic breezes and their impact on heating bills.

Another Option

A windbreak is a barrier of trees, typically arranged in multiple rows, that redirects and modifies the force of the wind. By

absorbing the wind’s energy, a windbreak will deflect the wind to higher elevations and redirect horizontal airflow into random directions. You’ll see windbreaks extensively in agricultural areas where they serve the purpose of protecting the soil as well. In my area of Wisconsin, I see long, tall rows of white pines and Norway spruces that were planted over 50 years ago with the intent of challenging those damaging winter winds. Mature windbreaks can cut winter fuel consumption for heating by an average of 25—40%. Granted, in a smaller-scaled residential landscape, there is limited space for larger windbreak systems but hedges and well-placed evergreens will deflect some wind.

Cooling summer winds should always be accommodated in any situation so avoid overzealous blockages that create

stagnant or limited air flow.

Windbreaks are common to the north and west of structures to address winter wind flow but still allow cooling summer breezes from the southwest. The extent of windbreak protection is proportional to the height of the windbreak that comes with time. The best buffer of protection occurs within the envelope of 4 to 5 times the height of the windbreak (i.e. a 40-ft tall windbreak provides the best protection within 200’). Benefits have been measured within 30 times the height of the windbreak but also consider the importance of windbreak, density and porosity and how that might fluctuate over time.

While a single row of spruces or pines (usually planted 15’ apart) would be functional, the danger is in the loss of any

specimens or collective decline of a monoculture in time. The loss of lower limbs on older specimens is a concern as well. Multiple rows (2—5) of evergreens interspersed with deciduous shrubs of varying heights is the most effective combination. Spruces (Picea), pines (Pinus), firs (Abies) are common candidates as are arborvitae (Thuja) in areas with minimal deer. Windbreaks typically include a row of shrubs to screen lower gaps but also catch snow. There are many references and manuals that give additional advice on proper windbreak formation. Wider windbreaks can also be managed to be beneficial to wildlife for food and shelter.

Energy-efficient landscape design, while still offering all the contributions of beauty and functionality for our clients, provides a low-cost solution to reducing energy consumption and saving our clients’ money. Energyefficient landscaping can positively affect the energy performance of residences, and these landscapes will ultimately provide enough energy savings to return the initial investment. Make the sale.

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Green Industry Winter Forum Education & Trade Show

Best Western Royal Plaza Hotel & Trade Center • Marlborough, Massachusetts

Registration required for all programs, walk-ins welcome

7:30am Registration and Setup Opens for Vendors & Sponsors

10am Attendee Registration Opens

Day 1: February 12, 2025

Solutions: Winter Forum Education register early for discounts • 3 MCH credits when attending both days, 1 MCH credit available for single day attendance

11am QuickBooks for Landscape Pros 101 Learn about QuickBooks Online business accounting software in this introduction. We will discuss general features, including invoicing, expense tracking, profitability reporting and other features to help you run your business more efficiently. Speaker: Ed Jaworski, Siegel Solutions, Inc. • Location: Seminar

12pm Trade Show Opens

12–4pm MCH Plant & Tool I.D. Presented by the MCH Board

12pm Badass Trees for Piss Poor Places The trees in this talk are survivors. They laugh at incorrect planting technique, scoff at mulch volcanoes, mock bad pruning cuts, and smirk at poor maintenance practices. They ask for poor soil and they taunt droughts. Sure, some of the usual suspects but many are trees you probably don’t know or didn’t realize. This talk uses some of the subjects to go sideways and discuss and even challenge tree selection concepts. Enjoy this romp through trees so ornery they’ll resist the worst that is hurled at them and be there to shade your children’s, children’s children. Speaker: Scott Beuerlein, Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden • Location: Salon C, D & E

12pm Pesticide Laws & Regulations This session will cover new things that have come up in the Pesticide Program, trends the program is seeing while weaving in the laws and regulations that are applicable to the issues in the green industry including nursery, greenhouse and landscape. Speaker: Laurie Manning, Pesticide Inspector II. Massachusetts WPS Coordinator, Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources • Location: Salon A & B • Pesticide credits requested

1:30pm The Future of Beech Trees: Addressing Beech Leaf Disease and Other Threats This session will explore the various threats facing beech trees, including phytophthora, beech bark disease, wood decay pathogens, foliar-feeding arthropods, and the emerging issue of beech leaf disease. We will delve into the history, life cycle, and symptoms of the nematode responsible for beech leaf disease, as well as its impact on tree health. Current management strategies will be reviewed, alongside findings from recent research trials, providing valuable insights for landscape professionals dealing with these challenges in beech tree care and preservation. Speaker: Beth Brantley, Ph.D., Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories • Location: Salon A & B • Pesticide credits requested

1:30pm Wine and Chocolate in the Garden Wine and chocolate aren’t just indulgent treats—they can also enhance your garden design. Join Deborah Trickett, owner of The Captured Garden, as she explores the impact of deep, rich tones in the landscape. In this session, Deborah will highlight her favorite wine and chocolate-colored plants, demonstrating how these hues can add drama and sophistication to both garden beds and containers. Learn how to incorporate these striking colors into your designs for a bold, refined aesthetic, and discover how these plants can elevate the overall mood and texture of your outdoor spaces. Speaker: Deborah Trickett, MCH, MCLP, The Captured Garden • Location: Salon C, D & E

2:45pm Phenology: Nature’s Timely Indicators Understanding the role of phenology (the study of seasonal changes in plants and animals) in predicting climate change and guiding plant care will add another tool to your professional arsenal. The bloom sequence of flowering plants is subject to environmental triggers such as extremes in temperature, such as heat and cold, as well as soil moisture and drought. Landscape Horticulturist Warren Leach will examine some characteristics of woody plants and herbaceous perennials that show resilience to erratic climate extremes. He will also illustrate planting techniques and floriferous landscapes that can withstand meteorological fluctuations successfully. Speaker: Warren Leach, Tranquil Lake Nursery • Location: Salon C, D & E

2:45pm Women in Horticulture: Challenges and Opportunities This session will celebrate the role of women in horticulture and landscaping, focusing on leadership, innovation, and career development. Join us for an engaged discussion on challenges and opportunities for women in horticulture and be ready to participate! Speaker: Beth Brantley, Ph.D., Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories • Location: Salon A & B

2:45pm QuickBooks for Landscape Pros 102 In this second session of QuickBooks Online business accounting software we will dig a bit deeper into the “how to” of the special features for contractors, including the job center, job costing, progress billing, and other features to make you more efficient and get the most out of this accounting software. Speaker: Ed Jaworski, Siegel Solutions, Inc. • Location: Seminar

4:45–6pm Social and Networking Register online by January 31, 2025

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10 Small Native Trees for a Layered Landscape

Small trees offer an important layer in the landscape, from a design standpoint as well as habitat. Think of small trees as those between 15 and 30 feet high. You’ll find them on the edges of woodlands, gracing small yards, or creating the backbone of a mixed hedge. When thoughtfully placed, small trees can anchor a house, become a specimen focal point, or offer screening.

Although smaller in stature than our mighty oaks or sweeping tulip trees, small trees offer important shelter and nesting spots for birds. Many produce flowers for pollinators and fruits for wildlife. They tend to be adaptable to sun or part shade and thrive in our clay soils. Some have outstanding fall color and interesting seeds and bark.

Let’s explore some small trees that might be lesser known in our landscapes than the ubiquitous redbud. We’ll also dive into some super shrubs that are nearly as big as trees and offer many of the same qualities and benefits. These species are all native to Illinois and the Midwest and are available from member growers.

Aesculus pavia or Red Buckeye

Zone: 4 to 8

Size: 12 to 15 feet

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to moist, preferring a moist fertile soil

Flower: Stunning panicles up to about 10” tall of red to orange-red tubular flowers in May

Fruit: 1-½ to 2-inch fruits with typical buckeye seeds of dark brown with a tan eye

Bark: Smooth with a greyish cast

Notes: Red buckeye is typically a rounded, multi-stemmed tree prized for its showy flowers that attract the first waves of hummingbirds. Occasionally found in southern Illinois, it is hardy up into Wisconsin. Plant this charmer as a springblooming specimen that will have the neighbors asking for one, too.

Alnus incana var. rugosa or Hazel/Speckled Alder

Zone: 2 to 6

Size: 15 to 25 feet

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to wet and mucky soils

Flower: Attractive purplish-brown male catkins become noticeable in April as they elongate and release yellow pollen.

Fruit: Clusters of reddish-brown cones that persist into winter, creating winter interest.

Bark: Smooth grey to burgundy-brown bark features interesting large white warty lenticils which give it its common name.

Notes: A rounded clumping tree, speckled alder loves water and is an excellent solution for a wet spot. It rewards with rugged textured leaves with pale undersides, fascinating catkins and cones, and attractive bark. Songbirds feast on the seeds and nest in the branches. It thrives in cold temperatures and can be a very fast grower.

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Amelanchier arborea or Downy Serviceberry

Zone: 4 to 9

Size: 15 to 25 feet

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to moist, but very adaptable

Flower: Clusters of starry white flowers in spring.

Fruit: Sizeable edible purple berries in summer that are beloved by birds and wildlife. Bark: Smooth pale bark that is attractive in the winter season.

Notes: Downy serviceberry is distinguished from other species of serviceberry by its exceptionally hairy young leaves that feature toothed margins. In fall, this elegant clumping tree turns pumpkin orange. The flowers are favorites of a long list of native bees, while striped hairstreak and red-spotted purple butterflies use it as a larval host. This is a more adaptable serviceberry that will handle a broader range of soil types than some other cultivars and species.

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Asimina triloba or Pawpaw

Zone: 5 to 9

Size: 15 to 30 feet high; 8 to 10 wide, but may sucker

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to moist well-drained

Flower: Cup-shaped, leathery purple flowers appear before the leaves in early spring.

Fruit: Large edible soft green fruits taste like banana custard. Wildlife will often beat you to the harvest.

Bark: Light grey and speckled with lenticils

Notes: Your clients may request it for the delicious fruit, but don’t hesitate to incorporate this easy-going small tree for its foliage alone. Huge, tropical leaves provide coarse layered texture for the landscape before turning shades of rich gold in the fall. Pawpaw will sucker in ideal conditions but tends to be a single stem plant in most cases.

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Carpinus caroliniana or Blue Beech, American Hornbeam, Musclewood

Zone: 3 to 9

Size: 20 to 30 feet

Sun: full sun to full shade

Soil: average to wet

Flower: Attractive long green papery catkins often turn shades of orange in the fall.

Fruit: Papery catkins develop seeds favored by birds and wildlife.

Bark: Pale grey bark that becomes fluted and muscular with age.

Notes: This tough small tree can be found as a single trunk or multi-stemmed. It is incredibly flexible in its sun and soil tolerances, making it a great candidate for a large hedge if regularly trained. On its own, it has a pleasing rounded shape. It is a larval host for tiger swallowtail butterflies and many moths. More cultivars are being introduced that focus on consistent fiery fall color and narrower forms.

Chionanthus virginicus or Fringe Tree

Zone: 3 to 9

Size: 12 to 15 feet

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to moist well-drained

Flower: Large airy panicles of fragrant white flowers in June resemble fringe.

Fruit: A deep blue fleshy fruit is formed, usually when more than one tree is in proximity.

Bark: Attractive pale grey

Notes: Fringe tree is slow growing and slow to leaf out in the spring. However, in flower, it can perfume an entire corner. Its large glossy leaves provide a tropical texture. It is also remarkably pollution tolerant, so will thrive in urban situations

Cornus alternifolia or Pagoda Dogwood Zone: 3 to 7

Size: 15 to 25 feet high and will widen with age

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: rich, acidic, moist well-drained

Flower: Clusters of creamy white flat umbels in late May to June.

Fruit: Clusters of blue-black berries are devoured by birds.

Habit: The horizontal branching habit gives this small tree a distinctive layered architecture.

Notes: Pagoda dogwood can be a stunning elegant specimen in the landscape with reddish-purple fall color. It also feeds wildlife, being beloved by bees and pollinators in flower and birds consume the fruit. It is also a larval host to spring azure butterflies and a long list of moths.

Halesia carolina or Carolina Silverbell Zone: 4 to 8

Size: 15 to 25 feet high, 10 to 15 feet wide

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to moist well-drained

Flower: Elegant clusters of showy bell-like flowers bloom in April to May along the twigs.

Fruit: Four-winged brown nut-like fruits often cling through winter for seasonal interest.

Bark: Rough gray bark with paler furrows lending it a striped appearance.

Notes: Carolina silverbell is best planted in a bit of protection from high winds. It is a lovely sight backlit on a spring morning as the flowers are visited by bees. Tuck it into mixed plantings for a spring surprise.

Malus ioensis or Prairie Crabapple

Zone: 3 to 8

Size: 20 to 30 feet

Sun: full sun to light shade

Soil: average to moist well-drained, although drought tolerant once established

Flower: Large showy fragrant white flowers from rosy pink buds.

Fruit: Greenish yellow 1 to 1-½ inch fruits enjoyed by wildlife and traditionally used in jelly, cider, and vinegar.

Bark: Lightly shaggy with age.

Notes: This crabapple is for clients devoted to native plantings as it is not disease resistant. With a regular spray program, it will be a beautifully rounded specimen. Crabapples are not only favored by many bees and pollinators, they are also larval hosts to tiger swallowtail and striped hairstreak butterflies as well as a huge list of moths.

Salix discolor or Pussy Willow

Zone: 4 to 8

Size: 10 to 15 feet high; 4 to 8 feet wide

Sun: full sun to part shade

Soil: average to wet

Flower: Large showy soft catkins in early spring.

Notes: Pussy willow tends to be a sentimental plant for Midwesterners. We love the showy spring stems and decorate with them indoors and out. This is a rangy, fastgrowing willow with pale undersides to the leaves. It is best planted in a hedgerow or pruned vigorously if placed as a specimen. A huge array of butterflies and moths use willow as a larval host, making this a terrific option for clients concerned about pollinator diversity.

Ptelea trifoliata or Wafer Ash

Zone: 4 to 9

Size: 15 to 20 feet

Sun: part shade to full shade

Soil: average to dry and adaptable

Flower: Clusters of creamy white flowers in June.

Fruit: Clusters of showy large wafer-like seeds.

Notes: The seeds are the showiest element of this large understory shrub. However, deer tend to avoid it, making it a valuable plant for clients with significant deer pressure. It’s also the larval host for giant swallowtail butterflies, one of the few food plants for this butterfly. Weave it through woodlands and hedges.

Contorted Filbert for a Gnarly Winter!

Winter interest in the garden can be a subtle contribution to include colorful stems, ornamental bark, persistent fruits, grasses, and much more. However, winter can also become the premier season that features the primary attribute of a plant. My favorite example is the contorted European filbert (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’), also known as the corkscrew hazel. I have three of these in my home garden in prominent locations and enjoy their winter silhouettes both with and without snow! This plant is not as much uncommon in horticulture as it is underappreciated, in my estimation.

Originally found in England in 1863, this deciduous plant has been described as picturesque, twisted, contorted, knotty, and gnarly. These are all apt descriptors and refer to the uniquely curled and twisted stems and branches. The crumpled leaves of contorted filbert have some interest, particularly with the maroon selections of ‘Red Dragon’ and ‘Red Majestic.’ Do note that the intensity of the deep maroon foliage in spring for these selections does fade to a more muted, maroon-green by mid-summer. New growth continues to show deeper maroon highlights.

The amazing winter form is what really stands out when this selection is in a prominent location (a true focal point!) and can be enjoyed for its unique character. ,Another common name for this plant is Harry Lauder’s walking stick. Sir Harry Lauder was a Scottish entertainer (1870 1950) who was known for having a crooked walking stick. The contorted filbert also received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal

Horticultural Society.

This member of the birch (Betulaceae) family is hardy from Zone 4 8 and will reach 8-10’ tall and wide in time. Ideally, position this plant in full sun and organically rich, well-drained soils. While the species is native to Europe and western Asia, contorted filberts are primarily grafted to the America filbert (Corylus americana) which may periodically send up straight suckers that should be removed as they appear to prevent thicket formation. With all the twisting and contorted branches, these selections can become congested which warrants some judicious thinning in late winter and very early spring. Save your trimmings as they are excellent in containers and other arrangements! I have been “heavy handed” with the pruning of all three of my specimens (two ‘Contorta’ and one ‘Red Dragon’) to help open them up for air circulation and a more exquisite winter appearance. Position contorted filberts to be accents and focal points. Proximity to window views, along paths, and even in containers will make these specimens a conversation piece in the garden. The early flowers (catkins) offer interest the ruffled foliage is noteworthy. The maroon foliage selections mentioned above have become more available and are highly sought as garden accents. Be warned that Japanese beetles will certainly stop by for a nibble, and there is a filbert blight that may announce itself with entire branches dying suddenly in summer. Regardless, you can have a totally gnarly winter season with the contributions of the quirky and charismatic contorted filbert!

Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

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Clerodendron trichotomun -Peanut Butter Tree

Why This Plant Shines

This tree, otherwise known had the Harlequin glorybower, has fragrant white flowers that produce blue fruit. The blue fruits are surrounded by red fleshy caylx, which makes this tree a truly patriotic staple for your summer garden. What I like the most about this tree is the leaves that smell like peanut butter!

This is a rarely seen plant in Massachusetts. In my entire career, I have only seen two of these plants in the state. I have recently successfully transplanted one into my personal plant collection!

Facts and Features

This tree can be used as a focal point in your garden. It is also used as a container killer plant.

Scientific Name: Clerodendrom trichotomum

Common Name: Peanut butter tree

Exposure: Sun to part shade

Soil: Average

Size: 10-20’’ high, 10-20’ wide

Fall Color: None

Zone: 6 to 10

Growth Rate: Average

Michael Crittendon, MCH

Jim’s Landscaping Neeham, Massachusetts

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