Cyclone 5 Speed by Rimini Lambretta Centre

INDEX 1. Why? - The reasons we decided to produce these 5 speed gearboxes 2. Cyclone Questions & Answers + FAQ - Got a question about the Cyclone 5 Speed? You’ll find the answers here. 3. Fitment Guide & Tips - A complete guide with loads of helpful info about fitting the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ to your scooter, done in conjunction with scooter technical writer and book author, Sticky. 4. Gear Ratio Tables - All the info you need to choose the right gearing set-up, to get the best out of your Cyclone 5 speed. 5. Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox parts & accessories - A complete list of all the parts in the Cyclone range. 6. Youtube & Links - If you want to check out some on-line footage of scooters fitted with ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’s, then here’s where to look. 7. Cyclone 5 Speed production Batch information & versions (2012 – 2017) - A complete list of the production Batches, how to identify them and production upgrades. 8. Contact - Where to purchase a Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox along with all associated parts and accessories. This is where you’ll find a complete list of all the official Cyclone dealers & their contact information.

1. Why? The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox is a milestone in Lambretta development and probably the most important upgrade for Series 1, 2 and 3 machines in the last 50 years. Mass production 5 Speed gearboxes for Lambretta’s are nothing new but until now, not one of them has worked as it should. From as far back as the late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s, several manufacturers have tried to solve the problem of getting 5 gears into a space designed for 4 and to make it work and all have failed. Until now…. Back in 2011, Rimini Lambretta Centre decided to resolve this problem and after a lot of work, sweat and tears, we have managed to design, test and produce a perfect working 5 speed gearbox, known as the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’. These gearboxes are easy to fit by anyone with a basic of mechanical knowledge. They have been designed to work in any Italian, Spanish and Indian manufactured post ‘57 Lambretta Series 1, 2, 3, GP, DL or Serveta. No modifications are required to the actual engine: basically this is a ‘plug & play’ 5 speed gearbox. The real answer to the question ‘Why?’ is answered once you have ridden a scooter fitted with a Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox. Once tried you’ll NEVER go back to a 4 speed, period!

2. Cyclone Questions & Answers + FAQ To give you an insight into what is behind the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ development and some details about them, here’s a Question & Answer session. This was initially conducted by technical author and then Scootering Magazine writer, Sticky and some of this was used as part of the article that appeared in issue No. 315 / September 2012 of Scootering Magazine. Sticky: Why did you revisit the 5 Speed concept after so many people before you failed? Dean/RLC: A few years ago RLC was in a situation where several of our customers were insisting on us sourcing 70’s Omega made 5 Speed boxes for their shop restorations. The situation was that they were still breaking even though we had them treated by ‘Frozen Solid’. By this time complete Omega boxes were now commanding up to £800 which meant that a solution had to be found. Until that point everyone had been searching for a solution to sorting out the Omega boxes. Not only was this proving impossible, but even if it could have been achieved, all the ratios were wrong anyway. Our approach was to start afresh and work ‘outside the box’ (no pun intended). I insisted on a 5th gear ratio of 4.70 : 1 (i.e. slightly longer than the final gear ratio of a standard TV175 / SX200), working on the principal of using 19 / 46 sprockets and an 82 link chain as these are all readily available products. We worked with a couple of manufacturers with varying results. It’s common knowledge that a recall was also needed on one early batch and that cost RLC a lot of time, money and work as our (then) supplier washed their collective hands of all responsibility. RLC had to foot the bill for that and the supplier was dropped. Thankfully that is all part of the past and we have now gotten exactly what we needed from our current supplier and production ‘variations’ are truly a thing of the past. What is the most powerful scooter the gearbox has been tested in and what is the recommended power limit? RLC: There were initially two versions of the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ (the ‘Standard’ version and the uprated ‘Supreme’ version). The standard version was designed for non-reedvalved engines up to approx. 20bhp and the Supreme version for most other engine configurations producing power over that level. With the current Batch 6 (December 2016) we now have just one version and they have ‘PZ’ marked on all components. These have even been used for racing and helped rider Luca Zani of the ‘Casa Lambretta Racing Team’ take the hard-fought ‘Group 6’ title in the British BSSO scooter racing Championships. We recommend the Batch 6 ‘PZ’ Cyclones can be used in engines up to 30bhp but we have tested in engines much more powerful than that. Do you think you’ve done enough testing to be confident in it? RLC: It’s not so much ‘how much testing’ you do but ‘how it’s tested’. Not a lot of point in doing 50,000 miles at 50mph and never thrashing it: much better to do 5,000 miles at full chat, and constantly hammer it to death. In any case, ANYTHING can break if sufficiently abused but we really have tested this as thoroughly as possible. Too many products get put onto the market with little or no testing but the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ isn’t one of them. To date (January 2017) we have sold over 1200 Cyclone gearboxes and that speaks volumes in itself as there’s a lot of happy people out there thanks to this product. FYI, the very first ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ produced is still in an RLC shop scooter and that has now done over 35,000km. What are your plans for local distribution – will dealers be able to stock it? RLC: The Cyclones are available directly from RLC or via reputable dealers. These are in the main ‘Casa Performance’ dealers. The full list can be seen HERE

Is the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ anything to do with the old Omega/ Royspeed 5 speed gearboxes? RLC: No – nothing whatsoever. The Omega gearboxes have the worst ratios you could possibly choose for a Lambretta gearbox, and they break. It’s hard to imagine anything worse than that. The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes were designed from scratch, completely afresh, without using any known Lambretta gearbox as 3

a basis. Every single point, from the ratios through to the construction methods, has been thought through in a unique and meticulous way. Is the 5th gear an ‘overdrive’? RLC: No – there would be little point in that. Most Lambretta’s, once near their top speed, have relatively little power on tap so an overdrive would be pointless. The problem with all 4 speed Lambretta gearboxes is that despite playing around with sprockets and clutch crown-wheels, you’re limited to either gearing up for top speed, or acceleration. You can have one or the other but never both. The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ solves these problems as it is a close ratio gearbox and all the spaces between the gears themselves have been studied and tested to get them as nigh-on perfect as possible. Basically as you ride though the 5 gears, the ratio jumps between each gear are reduced so that acceleration becomes seamless, with no drop-off between gears at all. That equates to the scooter being constantly in the power band and the power being constantly useable. If you’re slick when changing gear, then the scooter’s acceleration is akin to that of an automatic scooter. Is the gearbox guaranteed against breakages? RLC: The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ is a performance component intended for use on closed circuits. As with most performance parts on the market, the Cyclone is sold ‘for Competition Use Only’ and is NOT for use on roads open to the public. No Lambretta gearbox can be guaranteed as unbreakable, and this one is no exception. Yes, we have tested them rigorously. Yes, we have used the best materials and production methods available in Europe. Yes, we have used the best people available for the job, BUT common sense says that nothing is unbreakable. If you are unhappy with this, then don’t buy one. If you have already bought one and are unhappy about this, then return the complete gearbox to us, unused, along with all of its original packaging, and we’ll fully refund you. If you accept that the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ is a performance part for sporting use, then you use it at your own risk. The same applies if you use the gearbox on public roads. Does the handlebar gearchanger rotate further around as there is an extra gear? RLC: No. The limit of rotational movement is exactly the same, but 5th gear is now where 4th previously was. There is now less rotation required for changing each gear, as there are now 5 gears in the engine which are effectively closer together. Do I have to modify the engine casing in any way? RLC: No. The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ is ready to fit and use. ‘Plug and play’ as they say…. Are there things I need to consider or check before I fit the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’? RLC: It goes without saying that all the engine components need to be in tip top order. If you have doubts about any item, then change it. Special attention should be given to the layshaft for signs of wear, the gear selector spring for strength, and all the gear linkages & tie bar on top of the engine. All need to be in good shape. More tips and recommendations can be found in the following ‘Fitment Guide & Tips’ section. What are the differences between the various Batches of the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes? RLC: As with most products, there have been various modifications and upgrades to the Cyclones over the years they have been in production. However to date (January 2016) all the components and parts of the various versions and Batches are interchangeable, with the sole exception of the VERY early Cyclones produced in 2012 (that used a 50T first gear cog mating to a cluster with a 1st which has 10T). In 2017 we are planning to introduce an all-new version that will NOT be compatible with previous production parts. The cluster and loose cogs of these gearboxes will be ID marked ‘PZ ONLY’ for easy identification.

Why are the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes no longer supplied with their printed instruction manual? RLC: It was bought to our attention that most people preferred to use a mobile phone or electronic notebook as opposed to a printed manual, so the decision was made to produce this digital version which can be simply consulted or down-loaded by accessing various associated websites.

3. ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ Assembly Guide Can I do it? The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox can be assembled by anyone with a good working knowledge of Lambretta engines and reasonable mechanical skills. The assembly of the Cyclone is reasonably straightforward with just a few minor differences compared to a normal 4 speed gearbox. HOWEVER WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU GET AN AUTHORISED CYCLONE OR CASA PERFORMANCE DEALER TO INSTALL THE GEARBOX. Complete Spanners Lambretta Manual Testing of the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ involved a trip to the UK to spend some time with technical author Sticky. For those who don’t own it, his Complete Spanners Lambretta Manual is a must-have book and will aid anyone considerably with the assembly of the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox.

The following is a guide to fitting the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox. Strip-Down To get access to the gearbox, the following sequence is to be followed: - with the scooter raised at the rear, remove the rear wheel and hub - remove the kickstart side rear footboard & frame ‘L’ shaped hanger bracket - remove the exhaust (taking care if it is hot) - drain the gearbox oil - remove the engine side casing - slacken off the transmission chain guides

Use a clutch compressor to remove the clutch plates & springs (Pic. 1) 5

At this point, if you intend to change the front sprocket, lock the rear clutch sprocket (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;crown wheelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) using a clutch holding tool. Then remove the front sprocket, by unscrewing the 14mm headed bolt. Once that has been removed, unscrew the 22mm nut that holds the rear clutch sprocket (Pic. 2). Remove the rear sprocket, chain and front sprocket assembly. Remove the shim(s) under the clutch assembly, on the gearbox cluster shaft. Next, remove the six 11mm-head gearbox endplate retaining nuts and washers.

Remove the gearbox endplate by screwing M6 bolts into the extraction holes (Pic. 3). You may need to tap the gear cluster down with a soft-faced mallet to separate it from the bearing as the endplate is being extracted. Remove the 4 loose gear cogs, the gear cluster (Christmas tree) and the shim situated underneath it.

Place the handlebar gearchange in gear position ‘3’ and then disconnect the gear change tie bar on the top of the engine by sliding off the rubber cover and removing the circlip and washer. Next remove the layshaft, complete with the gear selector still in place, by tapping it out with a soft hammer (Pic. 4).

Place the layshaft inside a plastic bag and slide the selector off. The bag will ensure the two spring-loaded balls don’t fly off (Pic. 5).

Component Check

At this point, thoroughly check of all the remaining components. Particular attention should be given to: - the layshaft for signs of wear (Pic.6) - the gear selector spring for strength - all the gear linkages & tie bar on top of the engine for wear - the gear selector fork and its 2 small ‘T’ shaped runners (‘pawls’), that sit into the grooved track of the gear selector - check for wear on the rear hub bearing, the gearbox endplate bearing and the two gearbox needle bearings. Also, most importantly, check the condition of the cluster needle bearing race (the part that can be found under the cluster, situated within the actual engine casing). This bearing race MUST be in tip-top perfect condition. If there is ANY wear to be found on any of these items, they MUST be replaced. All the components need to be in tip-top order. If in doubt, renew them.

a IMPORTANT: RLC STRONGLY advises that the layshaft be replaced in any case. We have carried out endless work and examinations of all possible layshafts on the market, from Innocenti to Indian, from British to Asian, through to all the various Italian manufactures and there are abyssal differences which can cause untold headaches when fitting a Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox. The biggest problem is the position of the hole for the spring and 2 ball bearings that work the gear selector. If this is wrong (as 99% are) then you 8

SERIOUSLY risk damaging your gearbox as the selector can catch the insides of gear cogs it shouldn’t be touching (this is especially evident when in neutral but the gear selector dog-legs ‘clip’ the inside of the 2nd gear cog). Make life easier for yourself and purchase the new Casa Lambretta layshaft which is PERFECT for both 4 and 5 speed gearboxes. Manufactured using Innocenti drawings and also forged for extra strength, this will be the best investment you can make for your engine, after the Cyclone 5 Speed itself.

To get the best out of your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox, every possible cause for ‘sloppy’ gear changing should be eliminated. This includes the gearchanger on the handlebar itself. Check for wear in the ‘slotted’ end (accessible once the handlebar grip has been removed) which means the plastic bush for post mid. ’65 Special / SX / GP / DL / Serveta models, or the metal edges that sit within the slots on Ser.1 / Ser.2 and pre – mid. ’65 LI3 / TV / GT models. Again if play is present, renew the faulty or worn parts. If a new handlebar gearchanger is required, these are available to purchase (Pic. 7). These are purpose made for the Cyclone gearboxes and have 5 gear positions and can also be purchased from RLC or Casa Performance dealers.

Build-up

Once the engine components have been checked, and cleaned where necessary, the assembly can begin. If you are using a used layshaft, the first thing to check is that the Cyclone gears spin freely. As the gears are used, over time, they can create scoring or grooves on the surface of the layshaft itself. As there are now five loose Cyclone gear cogs, it follows reason that they spin in slightly different places to the original four loose gear cogs. This means that the loose Cyclone gear cogs can end up running on the edges of the 4 speed grooves and that the gears do not spin freely. Holding the layshaft in a vertical position, add one gear cog at a time and then spin it by hand. Ensure that each loose gear cog is positioned so that the etched words â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;TOWARDS KICKSTARTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; are on the opposite side to the threaded part of the layshaft. Continue to add each gear cog, one at a time, and then give the gears a spin. They should spin freely without notable friction or resistance (Pic. 8). Alternatively, the fitment of the new Casa Lambretta layshaft M286 will avoid all possible issues and guarantee perfect gear alignment.

If after adding a gear cog, resistance is felt, then there may be a groove or scoring at that particular point where the gear cog runs on the layshaft. This groove or scoring must be removed and in most cases, lightly polishing the surface of the layshaft with a motorised polishing ‘mop’ will do the trick (Pic.9). A fine ‘finishing’ type polish should be used, or in the absence of that, used a small amount of Solvol Auto-Sol (metal polish) or T-Cut (car paintwork ‘restorer’) on the polishing mops. The surfaces of the layshaft should end up with a finish similar to chrome. Once done, clean the layshaft thoroughly to remove any polish residue. Only then can you re-try spinning the cogs on the layshaft. If resistance is still felt after polishing then replacement of the layshaft is the only cure.

The next step is fit the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gear selector to the layshaft. The selector (‘sliding dog’) is recessed from both ends allowing it to be fitted even if the layshaft has been left in the engine. However, this is not advisable and it is a lot easier to fit the gear selector if the layshaft has been removed from the engine. On the underside of the gear selector, two of the ‘legs’ are chamfered. These chamfers must be aligned with the small spring loaded selector balls (Pic.10).

Hold the balls into position either side of the spring and push the selector onto the shaft as shown (Pic.11)

Slide the selector about half way down the layshaft. If the spring, balls and selector are correctly assembled then there will be an audible ‘click’ as the selector moves into each gear position (Pic.12).

Now place the layshaft back into the engine, ensuring that the two small ‘T’ shaped runners (‘pawls’) of the gear selector fork sit into the grooved track on the gear selector (Pic.13).

Gently tap the layshaft into place using a soft hammer. The tone of the ‘knocking’ by the hammer will audibly change once the layshaft arrives up against the rear hub bearing. Re-fit the rear hub cone with its large spacer washer underneath, and the slot in the cone over one of the raised splines (Pic 14).

Refit rear hub to the engine. Firmly tighten the rear hub nut to seat the layshaft (you must torque the nut later, once the gearbox is fully assembled). Only when the layshaft is fully seated ‘home’ can you to set up the gearbox with the correct thickness spacer shims (Pic 15).

Now you need to ascertain which thickness of large gearbox endplate shim is to be used. It is advisable to do this WITHOUT fitting the gear cluster yet. Fit the 5 loose gear cogs and use a 1.4mm large gearbox endplate shim as a starting point. Every ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox is supplied with a selection of these shims, ranging from 0.8mm up to 1.8mm, in 0.2mm increments. Most Italian Lambretta’s use a 1.4mm or a 1.6mm shim as standard. However, with the market now flooded with engine casings, layshafts, gearbox endplates and rear wheel bearings from all corners of the globe, there are an infinite number of ‘variations’ as components have become mixed and matched over the years. Add various manufacturers’ lack of attention to product machining tolerances to the equation, and it becomes clear why we have included so many of these shims. These should cover any possible parts combination scenario. As a guideline, we have found that the most common shims required in both Italian and CasaCase casings have been 1.4mm. The most common shim used for Serveta casings is 1.6mm, 1.2mm for Indian casings and 0.8mm for Targa Twin casings. Once you have assembled the 5 loose gear cogs and shim, evenly tighten down the gearbox endplate. There is no need to use new washers and nuts at this point because the endplate may need to be fitted several times to obtain the correct shim sizes. Check to see if the outside, large 1st gear cog spins freely. If it does, see how much up and down movement (‘play’) the gear cog has, using a thin ‘L’ shaped wire placed under the outer edge. The gear cog should have a tiny amount of movement and you should be able to measure this using a feeler gauge inserted between the gearbox endplate and the large shim (Pic 16). The acceptable clearance range for this gearbox is 0.05 – 0.25mm but the smaller end of that range is preferable. If on the other hand, the gearbox ‘locks up’ as the endplate is tightened down then the thickness of the large shim must be reduced. Work your way back, reducing the shim thickness by 0.2mm at a time, until the gear cogs spin freely as described above. If you need a shim that is a ‘odd’ number (example: 1.9mm or 2.1mm etc.) these are manufactured by BGM.

Now that you have ascertained which large 1st gear shim to use, you need to remove the first four gear cogs, leaving the bottom (5th gear) cog in place. If you have a current production Cyclone gearbox with a cluster marked ‘PZ’, do NOT fit a shim, either underneath or on top of the cluster (Pic. 17). Now fit the cluster into the engine and fasten down the gearbox endplate with the old nuts. The gear cluster is effectively ‘lifted’ into the correct position when the central 22mm clutch crown wheel (sprocket) nut is tightened. Fit the clutch crown wheel shim and the central clutch spider. Fit and tighten the 22mm nut, using a clutch holding tool to stop the spider from spinning. Once the gear cluster has been ‘lifted’, look underneath the gearbox endplate to check the alignment of the loose 5th gear cog and its corresponding cog on the gear cluster.

If you are fitting an older Batch 1 – Batch 4 Cyclone with a cluster marked ‘DRT’, fit one of the supplied smaller shims ON TOP, between the gear cluster and the gearbox endplate (do NOT fit a shim underneath as per normal). We suggest starting with the thicker 0.5mm shim initially (Pic. 17a). Fit the cluster into the engine and fasten down the gearbox endplate with the old nuts. The gear cluster is effectively ‘lifted’ into the correct position when the central 22mm clutch crown wheel (sprocket) nut is tightened. Fit the clutch 15

crown wheel shim and the central clutch spider. Fit and tighten the 22mm nut, using a clutch holding tool to stop the spider from spinning. Once the gear cluster has been ‘lifted’, look underneath the gearbox endplate to check the alignment of the loose 5th gear cog and its corresponding cog on the gear cluster TOP TIP! : An alternative method to speed up this process (valid for ALL Cyclone gearboxes) is to turn over the gearbox endplate and tap the cluster into the bearing until it sits ‘home’ (using a hide or plastic mallet), thus avoiding having to tighten the clutch spider and 22mm nut to ‘lift’ the cluster into place as described here-above.

Pic. 17b Another way to check the alignment of the two mating 5th gear cogs is to use smartphone inserted into the gap alongside the gearbox endplate, to take a photo of the mating 5th gear cogs, to show if they are aligned. Alternatively put your phone onto ‘video’ mode and select the ‘flash’ light to remain on. Insert the phone into the gap alongside the gearbox endplate and you’ll be able to see / video the alignment of the 5th gear cogs. Simple and effective (Pic. 17b). Please note that this really needs to be done with the scooter / engine inclined (or flat) so the loose 5th cog is guaranteed to sit back on the layshaft. Alternatively, as they are now increasingly cheap to purchase from various sources on line, a endoscope can be used to see the alignment. If a ‘step’ between the 5th gear cogs is visible, then you will need to repeat the process. For current production Cyclone gearboxes with gears and cluster marked ‘PZ’: If the 5th gear on the cluster sits ABOVE the loose 5th gear cog, fit a 0.3mm or 0.5mm shim (or combined together to give 0.8mm spacing although this should be unnecessary) on top of the gear cluster, as necessary to obtain perfect 5th gear alignment, always taking take to check that the cluster spins freely once the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. If the cluster locks up after a shim has been added, reduce the thickness / remove the shim(s) from the cluster until it spins freely once again after the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. Then use one of the (larger) supplied shims on the layshaft itself so it sits between the layshaft and rear hub bearing (thus effectively raising the layshaft and the loose 5th gear cog) to obtain perfect alignment of the two 5th gears once the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. If on the other hand, the 5th gear on the cluster sits BELOW the loose 5th gear cog, the problem is the use of an unsuitable rear hub bearing and / or layshaft. The bearing should be changed for a Casa Lambretta item

M215. The layshaft should be changed for Casa Lambretta item M286. These excellent parts should resolve most problems. For previous production Cyclone gearboxes with gears and cluster marked ‘DRT’: If the 5th gear on the cluster sits ABOVE the loose 5th gear cog, add the supplied 0.3mm shim to the (previously fitted) 0.5mm shim, thus giving a combined spacing of 0.8mm on top of the gear cluster, as necessary to obtain perfect 5th gear alignment, always taking take to check that the cluster spins freely once the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. If the cluster locks up after the second shim has been added on top of the cluster, remove the shim you have just added from on top of the cluster until it spins freely once again after the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. Then use one of the (larger) supplied shims on the layshaft itself (thus effectively raising the layshaft and the loose 5th gear cog) so it sits between the layshaft and rear hub bearing to obtain perfect 5th gear alignment once the gearbox endplate has been tightened down. If you need to use these larger shims under the layshaft this usually indicates that the real problem is the use of an unsuitable rear hub bearing and / or layshaft. The bearing should be changed for a Casa Lambretta item M215. The layshaft should be changed for Casa Lambretta item M286. These excellent parts should resolve most problems.

WHICHEVER BATCH OF CYCLONE YOU ARE FITTING, IT IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE THAT THE TWO 5TH GEARS ALIGN PERFECTLY. Once you are happy that the two 5th gears are aligned and have checked that the gear cluster spins freely, remove the clutch spider, the gearbox endplate and proceed with the final assembly of all the components. Ensure all the loose gears are fitted with the ‘TOWARDS KICKSTART’ markings facing you. It is wise to lubricate all the gearbox bearings and loose gears with fresh gear oil as they go together. The endplate should be reassembled with the supplied new washers and nuts, and these should be tightened to 1.4 – 1.7 kg-m (10 – 12 lbs-ft). Also re-torque the rear hub nut to the settings listed below:

* tighten to the first lower figure first and continue tightening as required to align the locking plate screw

Once all the gearbox has been fully built up, do one last check using the central clutch spider tightened down, as before. If everything has been built up correctly, the central clutch spider should spin evenly and without binding (Pic.19). If it does not spin freely then something is amiss – do not ignore it – strip it down again to find out what is wrong. If you are having problems with assembly please feel free to contact us : info@riminilambrettacentre.com , phone us for advice on (++39) 0541 686449 or contact your Cyclone / Casa Performance dealer. We want your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox to work as intended so it must be assembled correctly before you can enjoy using it. Finally, rebuild the remaining engine and bodywork components in the reverse order of how they were dismantled. Use a new chaincase gasket and do not forget to add 0.7 litres of fresh gearbox oil before restarting the engine. It is also advisable to renew the gearbox oil once again, after approximately 500km / 300 miles have been covered.

POSSIBLE ‘CYCLONE 5 SPEED’ GEARBOX ASSEMBLY ISSUES & SOLUTIONS After the release of the Cyclone onto the market, we were able to work with customers & distributors on some issues that were not covered initially at the time of the gearboxes’ launch. The problem is not with the gearbox, but with there being so many different manufacturers for everything from layshafts through to the actual engine casings, some points came to light that we hadn’t initially covered or were not aware of at the time. In the unlikely event that your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox does not fit and work correctly first time, these are some points to look for and potential solutions. - Jumping out of 5th gear (1)

Pic. 20

Several things can cause the scooter to jump out of gear when under ‘load’ or if the engine is under stress. Firstly check that your gear cables are not over tightened. If one, or both of the cables is / are too taught, this can be the cause. However, the most probable reason can be the gear selector ‘wish-bone’ fork actually ‘bottoming out’ against the engine casing itself. This can sometimes be seen (when the gearbox has been removed) as two small, shiny marks on the casing at the exact points where the ends of the wishbone are if it is rotated right back as far as it will go. If this is the case, then removing the wishbone from the engine and filing / grinding it down at the two points where it touches the casing will cure this (i.e. at the rear of the two lugs that hold the ‘T’ shaped pawls) (See Pic.20). We have seen that there is a lot of difference in Italian Innocenti made wishbones, let alone taking into account Spanish, Indian and pattern made equivalents as well. TOP TIP! : This is certainly a worthwhile modification to carry out during any Lambretta engine rebuild, regardless of whether you have a 4 or 5 speed gearbox, as it only takes a moment to do with the gearbox stripped out anyway. RLC certainly recommends this modification as it can save you repeating the whole gearbox assembly process if the problem comes to light.

Pic. 21

We have seen that on the occasional engine, situations whereby the ends of the gear selector ‘wishbone’ touching the back of the engine casing have actually stopped the sliding dog gear selector from sitting all the way ‘home’, and thus remaining in a position whereby the outer edges protrude from within the recesses in the loose 5th gear cog (See Pic.21).

Pic. 22

Once the ‘wishbone’ had been filed (as per Pic.20), the sliding dog gear selector was able to reach its correct position and the outer edges were consequently perfectly aligned within the loose 5th gear cog (See Pic.22)

- Jumping out of 5th gear (2) A weak sliding dog / gear selector spring can also be the cause of jumping out of 5th gear. Most Lambretta selector springs have spent the last 50 years compressed, within the confines of a layshaft - so it’s no real surprise that they are somewhat weaker than when fitted half a century ago. A weakened spring effectively means less pressure applied against the two small ball bearings that keep the gear selector in place. This can cause the scooter to jump out of gear when put under load. Replacement of the spring is always advisable, although the fitment of an after-market ‘uprated’ selector spring can possibly cause the scooters gearchange to subsequently become unnecessarily stiff in use.

- Misalignment of the two mating 5th gear cogs (1) As mentioned previously, the differences in engine casing machining and internal component tolerances can sometimes cause problems with the alignment of the two 5th gear cogs. If you have fixed / pulled your layshaft firmly into place and have found that the loose 5th gear cog sits LOWER than it’s corresponding 5th gear on the cluster, it means that when the cluster is subsequently lifted slightly (i.e. when the 22m clutch retaining nut is tightened), the problem of misalignment will still be present. We have noted that as well as casing differences, this can be caused by the use of certain internal engine parts. Some rear hub bearings and layshafts have different heights & dimensions compared to most original Italian / Indian / Spanish factory OE parts, or current production Italian parts. These parts, when used either singularly or together, can cause misalignment of the 5th gear cogs. The ideal solution for this situation is the replacement of the parts or alternatively, to fit a large, thin shim under the layshaft (so it remains between the rear hub bearing and the layshaft). This effectively ‘lifts’ the whole layshaft - and therefore also the 5 loose gear cogs - which will bring the two opposing 5th gears back into alignment. Every ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox kit now contains a choice of 3 shims (in 0.3mm, 0.5mm and 0.8mm thicknesses) as standard, for this purpose. MDB produced rear hub bearings and layshafts have been identified as components likely to introduce this alignment issue. However, even unlucky combinations of factory parts have resulted in this occurring.

- Misalignment of the two mating 5th gear cogs (2) VERY early production Casa Lambretta made rear hub bearings can cause similar problems to those listed above BUT in the opposite sense. These bearings were slightly thicker / higher so gearboxes where a 2.0mm 1st gear shim had previously been fitted, then required a 1.8mm shim. As the difference in bearing height was minimal (0.10mm – 0.15mm), even with one of these bearings fitted it should still be possible to shim up the Cyclone gearbox due to the large selection of 1st gear, layshaft and gear cluster shims supplied. If not, then substitution of the bearing is the only cure. In the one occasion we came across where one of these bearings was used, we simply utilised the 0.3mm shim for the top of the gear cluster, as opposed to the usual 0.5mm shim. This bought the two mating 5th gears perfectly into alignment. Note that the production of the Casa bearings was modified almost immediately to cure this defect shortly after their release onto the market, so the chances of coming across one of these is very slim indeed.

- Indian made engine casings & parts Ben at AF Rayspeed helped us though the veritable minefield of Indian Lambretta engine casing information and differences. Indian casings can have massive machining tolerances between one engine and another, even if they’re from the same production batch! If a normal 4 speed Italian or Spanish gearbox is fitted to an Indian casing, it will invariably need a thinner 1st gear shim than that fitted originally by the Indians. As the Cyclone gearbox ‘stack’ of 5 loose gears is naturally slightly higher than that of any production Lambretta gearbox, it naturally follows that if an Indian engine casing is to be used, a thinnerthan-usual 1st gear shim will be called for. Therefore we now supply 1st gear shims that range from 0.8mm through to 1.8mm which now cover any possible scenario - regardless of the origins of the engine casing to be used. Please note if you require a 1st gear shim thicker than 1.8mm, these are standard Lambretta shims.

Another massive problem with Indian produced Lambretta engine casings is the fact that the lower cluster needle bearing track is usually hammered / pressed into place by the S.I.L. factory, without the casing being heated to aid fitment. This causes the aluminum of the actual casing to peen over UNDER the bearing track and therefore it’s unable to sit fully home. Subsequently the track sits proud of the casing and this can rub up against the underside of the cluster. After prolonged use, this will cause the cluster to overheat and damage to the heat treatment / hardening can occur to of the area where the needle bearing runs. RLC thoroughly recommends that you remove the needle bearing track to inspect the condition of an Indian casing before using it. Failing to do so could ultimately result in the premature failure of the gearbox cluster. We do NOT recommend the use of ANY Indian or Far Eastern made gearbox internals. If you have Italian or Spanish made parts, then it is certainly preferable to use these. However, we realise that it is not always possible to use / have alternative parts, so if Indian or Far Eastern components must be used, we do emphasise that you visually check each and every piece. Despite their known problems, the most preferable non - European made parts are without doubt those manufactured by Scooters India Ltd. (SIL). Two examples of sub-standard non - European workmanship we have seen have been on two brand new layshafts, from different manufacturers (both were pattern, non-SIL produced parts). The first Indian made part had been machined lop-sided thus causing the sliding dog gear selector to rub on one side of the layshaft but sit ‘proud’ on the other. The second layshaft, purchased in Asia, had the gear selector recesses machined so roughly that the sliding movement of the selector was completely impaired. Parts like these are not going to make your life any easier and only highlight the reason why Italian, Spanish or SIL produced Indian internal engine parts are recommended. If you must use Indian made parts then purchasing them from reputable dealers such as Scooter Restorations or AF Rayspeed is strongly advised. Too– cheap-tobelieve equivalents bought from a well known on line auction site, or from Asia, are probably only going to be a right royal headache when it comes to fitting or using them…

- Gear selector ‘wishbone’ ‘T’ pawls & control shaft bushes

Pic. 24 Pic. 25 One of the beauties of the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox is the minimal rotational movement needed at the handlebar gearchanger to select each gear. Once initially mastered, every gearchange is a pleasure rather than a chore. However, this minimal rotational movement needed at the handlebars can become excessive if there is any play at all in the gear linkages on top of the engine, or in the bushes within the bars themselves. Hence why we offer complete kits for these items and handlebar gearchangers. The two remaining parts to check to achieve the complete elimination of all gearchange ‘play’ are the bush for the shaft that operates the gear selector ‘wishbone’ and the ‘T’ shaped pawls that sit within the ‘wishbone’. 22

The bushes are Casa Lambretta item M232 and the ‘T’ shaped pawls are Casa Lambretta item M276. With the addition of these parts, there is now no excuse to have any play whatsoever in the entire gear change set-up on your Lambretta (See Pics. 24 & 25).

- Targa Twin engines (1)

Pic. 26 Some Targa’s have a unique zinc-coloured gearbox endplate and as they are supplied with an Indian made 4 speed GP200 gearbox as standard, some of the issues regarding thinner-than-usual gearbox shims are relevant here too. We have found that most Cyclone kits fitted to Targa Twin engines have required a 0.8mm or 1.0mm 1st gear shim. If you wish to utilise a thicker shim then there are two choices. You can either change the Targa’s gearbox endplate for an Italian or Spanish equivalent or alternatively, machine the area (highlighted red in the Pic.26) where the 1st gear shim sits up against, on the underside of the Targa’s endplate (See Pic.26).

- Targa Twin engines (2) Targa engines use a unique front sprocket, without the spring-loaded shock absorber found on normal Lambretta engines. Targa front sprockets are now available in 17T, 18T and 19T sizes. We recommend the use of the 18T or 19T versions with either 46T or 47T rear clutch sprockets. For complete gearbox ratio listings, those found in Section 4 (‘Gear Ratio Tables’) are relevant.

- Targa Twin engines (3) On some Targa Twin engines the Cyclone gearbox cluster is a VERY tight fit within the bearing track situated within the casing itself. This is caused by some manufacturing / machining ‘differences’ of the size of the seat for the bearing track, which subsequently compressed the outside of the track and the needle bearing running inside it. Some gearbox clusters fitted to some Targa engines were machined slightly smaller than std. Lambretta clusters to compensate for this but the only real solution is to enlarge the recess for the bearing track in the casing itself, which is a specialist job. If when fitting a Cyclone 5 Speed cluster to your Targa engine, you find it is tight and / or difficult to fit / remove, do NOT run the engine like this. If you do so, the case hardening where the needle bearing runs on the cluster will be destroyed within a very short timescale and in extreme cases the gearbox could lock up. If you want to fit a Cyclone 5 Speed (or any other Innocenti / Spanish / Indian) gearbox) to your Targa the best solution is to fit a special ‘conical shaped’

needle bearing track produced by specialist manufacturers such as Charlie Edmunds @ Performance Tuning. - Deep clutch sprocket crown wheel 5 / 6 / 7 plate clutches Adam Winstone bought up a point in that some early 5, 6 and 7 plate clutch conversions have very limited clutch pressure-disc operational ‘travel’. Some clutch set-ups require the removal of excess threads from the top of the gear cluster (and in some cases, the use of a special extra-thin 22mm nut) for the top clutch pressure-disc to have enough operational ‘travel’ to work properly. All ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes have a cluster thread height that is identical to Innocenti gear clusters. Therefore it follows that if your multi-disc clutch requires the cluster thread length to be reduced and the use of a ‘half height’ nut, you will have to personally adapt the cluster to your requirements. More recent complete ‘plug and play’ moto-cross ‘cassette’ style multi-disc clutches - such as the Casa Performance, BGM and AF / Surflex types - do not require this modification to the cluster. - Kickstart shaft catching on the 1st gear cog (1)

Pic. 27 What must be remembered during assembly is that any reduction in the thickness of the large 1st gear shim (i.e. if your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox requires a thinner shim than the shim previously used with your 4 speed gearbox) corresponds to the kickstart teeth on the loose 1st gear cog effectively being that little bit closer to the kickstart mechanism. As a result, any issue with poor alignment, worn parts or poor manufacturing tolerances of the kickstart assembly can lead to contact with 1st gear. If this happens, there will be an audible ‘whirring’ noise emitted from the engine the moment it is started. Upon hearing this, immediately stop the engine and resolve the situation, following the guidelines listed here. Elements that control the position of the kickstart mechanism and the kickstart shaft ‘piston’ are; • orientation of kickstart pedal / lever in relation to the splines of the kickstart shaft • rebound rubber buffer fit / condition • profile of the kickstart ramp (GP / DL endplate or separate LI item) • position / height of the hole for the kickstart shaft ‘piston’ retaining pin • wear to / diameter of the hole for the kickstart shaft ‘piston’ retaining pin • wear to the kickstart shaft ‘piston’ retaining pin itself • thickness of the chaincase gasket. Inside any Lambretta engine the end of the kickstart shaft is naturally very close to the surface of the 1st gear cog, so with the Cyclone ‘stack’ of 5 loose gears being slightly higher than the standard gear ‘stack’, it 24

thus follows that ALL the kickstart components MUST be in tip top order. In Pic.27 you can see just how close the end of the Casa kickstart shaft is to the face of the 1st gear cog (See Pic. 27).

- Kickstart shaft catching on the 1st gear cog (2)

Pic. 28

This can be caused by certain kickstart shafts where, again, some manufacturers’ machining tolerances are different to factory original settings. Examples of these were the early ‘TS Made in Italy’ kickstart shafts. On these shafts, the height of the cylindrical section that retains the small, toothed ‘piston’ is much higher than original parts (See Pic.28). These shafts seem to work fine in 4 speed engines but as the Cyclone gearbox ‘stack’ of 5 loose gears is naturally slightly higher than that of any production Lambretta gearbox, we have found that these shafts can cause problems as they tend to catch / rub on the surface of the Cyclone’s 1st gear cog. As the kickstart lever splines are also in a slightly off-set position compared to original shafts, if your gearbox endplate is also the GP / DL type, there is a strong possibility that the internal, small kickstart shaft ‘piston’ does not fully return ‘home’ when the kickstart has come back to rest. This in turn leaves the two small ‘piston’ teeth partially exposed - and these will consequently rub on the top of the Cyclones’ 1st gear cog. Substitution of the shaft for an alternative part (original, ‘Casa Lambretta’, genuine ‘SIL’, recent production ‘TS Made in Italy’ or similar) is the only solution. The same slightly off-set spline teeth scenario (i.e. leaving your two kickstart shaft ‘piston’ teeth exposed even once your kickstart has come back to rest) is also present on a lot of remade kickstart shafts produced by MecEur and some other Italian manufacturers. This situation has now been rectified by Casa Lambretta who had the spline position changed back to match original Innocenti shafts. It therefore follows that if a non – original kickstart shaft is fitted to your engine then it might be worth checking it before final assembly.

- Kickstart shaft catching on the 1st gear cog (3)

Pic. 29

Another possible cause for this can be the use of a kickstart shaft that has a worn oval hole where the kickstart shaft ‘piston’ retaining pin slides (See Pic. 29). This can leave the two small teeth exposed (especially if a GP & DL type gearbox endplate has been used) and these can possibly rub on the top of the Cyclones’ 1st gear cog. Again, substitution of the shaft and / or the piston retaining pin for an alternative(s) part(s) (original, ‘Casa Lambretta’, genuine ‘SIL’ or similar) is the only solution. - Stiffness in operation Initially this is to be expected due to the fact that the gearbox components are new and will take time to ‘bed in’. This stiffness in operation will quickly reduce and after approx. 50 miles / 80km of use, gear selection of your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ should become smooth and precise. As with any new engine product, we strongly recommend that your Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox is ‘run-in’ for at least 200 miles.

4. GEAR RATIO TABLES The choice of which gears to use is a personal one but the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox in its standard form should suit most needs. The important factor to consider is the 5th gear ratio. We have found that in most cases, a slightly longer top gear (i.e. a lower ratio number) can be used compared to what your scooter is currently running. Example: if your scooter is currently fitted with standard TV175 / SX200 gearing, giving a 4th gear ratio of 4.80 : 1 with 15 x 46 sprockets, then your ideal set-up would be the standard ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ kit used in conjunction with 19 x 46 sprockets and an 82 link chain (this is the standard GP200 chain). This will give you an overall 5th gear ratio of 4.72 : 1. This ratio is slightly longer than the SX200 4 speed gearing you previously had. The scooter should easily be able to pull that ratio as the Cyclone gears are so close that the scooter doesn’t drop out of the power band. Therefore the longer 5th gear ratio doesn’t present a problem.

There is little point listing all the thousands of possible 4 speed gearbox & sprocket combinations as the variations are endless. It makes more sense to visit the excellent site: www.tonycassidy.com where you can find nigh on every possible Lambretta gearbox, with all the related info on final drive options using various sprockets etc. The only thing that is worth adding are these simple formulae for working out your current 4 speed final drive ratios:

Once you know this, you can decide which sprocket & chain combination to use with your ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox. As previously stated, the vast majority of Lambretta’s will be fine with the Standard kit and 18T x 47T (giving a 4.92: 1 final, 5th gear ratio which is slightly longer than a std. GP200) or 19T x 46T (giving a 4.70: 1 final, 5th gear ratio which is slightly longer than a std. SX200) sprocket combinations. How- ever, due to the current vogue of very torquey Lambretta’s, capable of pulling 4.4:1 and 4.5:1 top gear ratios, we have listed all the possible options, along with chains needed to use the desired sprocket set-ups. One last thing worth noting is that most current production front sprockets are Indian made and do not run concentrically (i.e. they’re not even round!). This can cause endless problems from increase in vibration levels to wearing out bearings, cranks, chain guides and clutch sprockets in double quick time. As such, we 27

thoroughly recommend the use of Casa Performance sprockets which are superior to any others on the market. Available in all variations from 15T through to 21T, there should be all the sizes needed for any possible gearing scenario required. These are now available to buy from RLC, or your Cyclone / Casa Performance dealer. Now there really is no excuse to use poor quality, oval Indian sprockets.

Cyclone Gear Tables & Final Drive Ratio Selection The ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearbox currently in production (Jan. 2017) is Batch 6 which is identified by having 9teeth machined for 1st gear on the cluster. If your gear cluster has 10-teeth for 1st gear then you have a very early Version (Batch) 1 and you can find the data for that hereunder in the following text. GEAR RATIO TABLE FOR ‘CYCLONE 5 SPEED’ (BATCH / VERSION 2-6)

Note: the speeds given per 1,000 rpm are calculated using a 3.50-10 rear tyre circumference of 1,357mm. To calculate the speeds for other sizes multiply the figure given by your tyre circumference in mm and divide by 1357.

Final drive ratio & sprocket combination selection (Standard 35T 5th gear)

Final drive ratio & sprocket combination selection with optional ultra-close 36T 5th gear

*These sprocket and chain combinations are made possible by the use of ‘pull down’ top chain adjusters such as the amazing Casa Performance ‘OTT Chain Guide’ X44. Original style ‘push up’ top chain guides are unable to accommodate the excess chain slack.

X44

5. Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox parts & accessories This is a complete list of all the parts within the current Cyclone range along with their relative codes and Italian RRP in Euro’s. These parts can be purchased directly from RLC or from any Cyclone / Casa Performance dealer. X160 X160b X160c X160d X160e X160f X160g X160h X160j X160k X160L X160m X160n X160p X160q X160r X160s X160t X160u X160w X161 X162 X163 X164 X165 X166 X166a X166b X166c X166d X166e X166f X166g X166h M286a CYN017 CYN018 CYN020 CYN038 CYN039 CYN045 CYN050 M139z M140z

Gearbox 'Cyclone 5 speed' complete kit Cyclone 5-speed gear cluster (all Batches) Shim - gear cluster upper shim 0.3mm Shim - gear cluster upper shim 0.5mm Shim - spacer between layshaft and rear hub bearing 0.3mm Shim - spacer between layshaft and rear hub bearing 0.5mm Shim - spacer between layshaft and rear hub bearing 1.0mm Kit 6 x M7 endplate nuts and washers for kit Cyclone 5 Speed Kit of 5 shims for cluster and layshaft adjustment 1st gear cog Cyclone 45T (all Batches) 2nd gear cog Cyclone 41T (all Batches) 3rd gear cog Cyclone 38T (all Batches) 4th gear cog Cyclone 36T (all Batches) 5th gear cog Cyclone 35T (all Batches) 1st gear cog Cyclone (PZ ONLY - not DRT) 2nd gear cog Cyclone (PZ ONLY - not DRT) 3rd gear cog Cyclone (PZ ONLY - not DRT) 4th gear cog Cyclone (PZ ONLY - not DRT) 5th gear cog Cyclone (PZ ONLY - not DRT) Cluster 5-speed (PZ ONLY - not DRT) Gear selector 'Cyclone 5 speed' (all Batches) Handlebar gearchange 5-speed for LI/TV 1-2 Handlebar gearchange 5-speed for LI/TV/S up to '65 Handlebar gearchange 5-speed for LI/S/SX/DL from '65 Handlebar gearchange 5-speed for SIL Indian GP-DL 1st gear shim kit in 9 sizes (0.8 - 1.0 - 1.2 - 1.4 - 1.6 - 1.8 - 2.2 - 2.4 - 2.6mm) 1st gear shim 0.8mm 1st gear shim 1.0mm 1st gear shim 1.2mm 1st gear shim 1.4mm 1st gear shim 1.6mm 1st gear shim 1.8mm 1st gear shim 2.8mm 1st gear shim 3.0mm Casa Lambretta layshaft (suitable for all 4 and 5 speed gearboxes) Optional (taller) 49T fifth gear for Batch 1 gearboxes Optional (taller) 44T fifth gear for Batch 2 - 6 gearboxes Optional (taller) 36T fifth gear for Batch 2 - 6 gearboxes Cyclone 5 Speed running in sticker (black) Cyclone 5 Speed running in sticker (white) Cyclone 5 Speed mug Cyclone 5 Speed patch Iwis 80 link drive chain Iwis 81 link drive chain 32

€ 1.150,00 € 245,00 € 0,50 € 0,50 € 0,50 € 0,50 € 0,50 € 2,40 € 2,50 € 140,00 € 95,00 € 95,00 € 95,00 € 95,00 TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA € 145,00 € 65,00 € 65,00 € 65,00 TBA € 45,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 6,00 € 85,00 € 80,00 € 80,00 € 65,00 € 5,00 € 5,00 € 8,00 € 3,00 € 49,50 € 60,00

M140bz X43z X43bz M276x M232

Iwis 82 link drive chain Iwis 83 link drive chain Iwis 84 link drive chain Pair of gear selector pawls (NOS Innocenti) Engine gearchange rod bush (NOS Innocenti)

€ 60,00 € 60,00 € 60,00 € 10,00 € 8,00

6. YouTube & Links Rimini Lambretta Centre and Casa Performance have official on line YouTube channels:

www.youtube.com/user/RiminiLambretta www.youtube.com/channel/UCFd1q1kVQoHEib29dylFpMQ and it’s here that you can see some of the initial testing and abuse we subjected the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes to! Whilst some the quality may not be MTV, some of the clips include classic moments of Cyclones being put through their paces. At the time of updating this manual (Jan. 2017), we are working on a full video-tutorial showing how to fit a Cyclone 5 Speed gearbox to your engine and this will be posted on line as soon as it’s ready.

7. Cyclone 5 Speed production Batch information & versions (2012 – 2017) Over the years, we have continuously sought to upgrade and improve the ‘Cyclone 5 Speed’ gearboxes to keep abreast of engine development in the Lambretta World, where power and torque outputs have increasing at an incredible rate. This is a list of the various Versions and Batches, along with their manufacturers and ID numbers, for the Cyclone gearboxes that have been produced since their conception in 2012. Please bear in mind that there are some (DRT manufactured) cross-over gearboxes with ID numbers that may differ to those listed here. There have been three manufacturers to date. The first was DRT and their parts have a letter & number ID system that indicates month and year of production i.e. ‘D13’ indicates April 2013. The letters are used on the basis of A= January, B= February, C = March etc. and the following number indicates the year i.e. 13 = 2103. DRT gearboxes were produced in 4 Batches of which most were good but the complete Batch 3 was recalled (at RLC’s insistence) due to a manufacturing errors and inconsistency of heat treatment. In 2014 we had a very small production run of 10 x prototype gearboxes produced by Crimaz but these were afflicted by poor manufacturing methods making them unable to cope with power output from reedvalved engines and subsequently all were recalled / replaced with ‘PZ’ manufactured gearboxes. Batch 5 and Batch 6 (and all current production) were produced by RLC in Italy using a new manufacturer and the quality has been both superb and consistent. The components of these gearboxes are all marked ‘PZ’. With zero comebacks from several hundred gearboxes sold to date (Jan.2017) these are the best 5 speed gearboxes for Lambretta scooters on the market for engines producing up to 30bhp.

Version / Batch Info Version/Batch 1 : 2012.The first 50 Cyclone gearboxes released were identical to the 3 prototypes gearboxes we used for initial testing. As standard these are the only Cyclone’s that use a cluster with a 10tooth 1st gear on the cluster mating with a 50-tooth loose gear, which has a ratio of 5.00:1. These gearboxes do NOT have drilled clusters for the clutch pressure plate push-rod. The parts are marked ‘E12’ & ‘DRT’. Version/Batch 2 : 2012-2013. These gearboxes use a cluster with a 9 tooth 1st gear on the cluster mating with a 45-tooth loose gear, still maintaining a ratio of 5.00:1. These gearboxes have drilled clusters for the clutch pressure plate push-rod. The parts are marked ‘I12’ & ‘DRT’. These were produced by DRT in late 2012. Version/Batch 3 : 2013. This batch was afflicted by manufacturing problems of the 3rd gear on the cluster and were subject to a recall, on RLC’s insistence. These are marked ‘A13’ or ‘D13’. Replacement clusters sent out to customers also have ‘Supreme’ etched on the underside of the cluster main shaft. Version/Batch 4 : 2013-2014.The next batch were marked ‘F13’ & ‘G13’ / ‘DRT’ and as a safety measure we advised these to only be fitted to NON-reedvalved engines up to 20bhp. Some clusters were marked ‘E14’ / Supreme). The hole for the clutch pressure-plate push-rod was eliminated. *2014. To eliminate the manufacturing problems, a small batch of Cyclones were produced by DRT entirely in a higher-grade steel and each gearbox has all parts with the same set number and all are marked ‘Supreme’. These were the last of the DRT manufactured gearboxes. *2014. A very small production run of gearboxes was produced by Vespa parts manufacturer Crimaz but these were all recalled as they were deemed unfit for use. These gearboxes are easy to identify as their clusters have 3 visible pins inserted from the underside. Version/Batch 5 : 2015. We changed manufacturer and all gearboxes were now marked ‘PZ’ along with a production date. These were (and still are) made exactly to RLC’s design and specifications. All previous manufacturing problems were immediately eliminated and the gearboxes were even used for scooter racing (with Championship wins as a result). Version/Batch 6 : 2016 – present. Current production, details as per Batch 5.

8. Contact Email: info@rimilambrettacentre.com Email: rlc@lambretta5speed.com Website: www.riminilambrettacentre.com Website: www.lambretta5speed.com Website: www.casaperformance.com Postal Address : Rimini Lambretta Centre, Via Delle Industrie 13, 47824, Poggio Torriana (RN), Italy Tel : (0039) 0541 686449 GMT +1hr., workshop hours. English (Ext.1)/Italian (Ext.3) /French (Ext.3) speaking