AURORA ISSUE NO 1 — SUMMER 2018
editor’s letter From competition lurking around every corner to not knowing exactly where you might belong, the creative industries of art and fashion can be a tough place to succeed in. But there is hope, many before our time have broken into one of the most closed-off industries in the world — and so can we. Welcome to Aurora, a place where success meets ink and paper. With an introductory essay exploring the meaning of fashion in the contemporary age, the magazine cues in a series of interviews and feature investigations about the best way to turn our very own creativity into a successful livelihood. This issue features a photoshoot by Francisca Larawan, as well as interviews with João Queirós of Narcissism, talking about the joys and struggles of being your own fashion boss, Filipa Mota, the talent behind Manhattan’s infamous silverware dress, Carolina Santiago, a fashion blogger turned journalist that proves that passion should always come first, and many more. And because the best should always be left for last, as you flip through the pages of Aurora you will find artwork from creatives such as Pedro Santos and Sofia Espadinha Martins, as well as tips about how to best succeed at breaking into the millennial creative industry.
With love,
E D ITOR - IN - C H IE F
AU RORAM AGAZI NE .CO.U K @THE AU RORAM AGAGZI NE
IL LUSTR ATION BY PE D RO SA N TO S
table of
CONTENTS 4
what is fashion? |
AN ESSAY ON THE CONTEMPORARY ROLE OF FASHION
MEET THE NEXT WAVE OF CREATIVES
16
narcissism |
HOW TO BE YOUR OWN FASHION BOSS
EXPLORING FASHION AND MUSIC’S RELATIONSHIP
24
the ethical revolution |
BEHIND MADISON AVENUE’S SILVERWARE DRESS
33
| the sound of fashion
| art in the name of fashion
the fashion influencer |
50
28
FROM BLOGGER TO JOURNALIST
the other side of fashion |
CREATIVE SOULS IN A MILLENNIAL WORLD
20
HOW MILLENNIALS ARE FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT
PHOTOSHOOT BY FRANCISCA LARAWAN
44
6
| the watchlist
| yellow days
LIVES AND CAREERS OF MODELS
| the art school expericence
the accessory wardrobe |
36 46
WHAT IS JEWELLERY’S ROLE IN FASHION?
3
WHAT IS FASHION? EXPLORING THE CONTEMPORARY ROLE OF FASHION
ES SAY BY LU CA S BRA NDÃO
4
Fashion has always acted like a window that
eration carries the responsibility of not only
helps us perceive and fully understand how the
suggesting but going as far as creating codes
world works and how it continuously evolves
of being and wearing. It’s giving a voice to cul-
throughout the years, decades, and centuries.
tures that were previously unheard, and to spe-
Foremost, fashion is a road for many creative
cific, singular, and adventurous approaches.
minds, across a variety of identities and tech-
Diversity is thoroughly appreciated in every
niques, to join a diverse platform. It allows
area — from art to science. Fashion, by benefit-
these minds to design and create both pieces
ing from its interdisciplinary scope, is an indus-
and collections, but also to help instigate ways
try that can’t be separated from the important
of acting and contemplating.
role that is to be an active participant in a con-
Society can and must be analysed in many per-
stantly-developing society.
spectives. In order to captivate diverse talents
Ultimately, fashion and creativity are members
and ideas, new discourses must be constant-
of a perfect marriage. They invite young and
ly created and dialogues maintained. Fashion,
talented members of society to take part in a
as a powerful industry, constructs one of the
productive and constructive discussion of how
most relevant discourses in society. One that
the world was, is, and is evolving to become.
people can’t avoid in their daily lives.
Dynamic ideas, audacious designs, astonish-
Creativity is an essential tool that provides the
ing collections. All breeding and brewing signs
necessary means to designers and raw, virtu-
and symbols of what time and space they each
ous agents of artistic communication. To make
belong to and, therefore, represent. Creative
an impact in today’s standardised world it’s
initiatives from artistic minds, along with the
important to be not only different but unique.
precision and intuition that fashion requires,
Trends and fashionable concepts are often sub-
are en route to become more impactful and
stantially allied to what a society represents,
meaningful than ever.
expresses, and needs.
Once again, art and culture are speaking in a
Answers to the challenges brought by those
united voice; expressing emotions and sensa-
who culturally intervene and discuss the con-
tions from the world’s most unique and rele-
temporary setting are doors of perception to
vant speakers. All through a complete harmony
this fresh era of talented minds. This new gen-
between vision and conviction.
THE WATCHLIST MEET THE NEXT WAVE OF CREATIVES
M A RI AN A FE RRE IRA
AND RA P ETREA
ZENTY A ZM I
M ORENA CU TELLO
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE
From young to already successfully established talents, it goes without saying that the creative industries reap what they sow. Art and fashion know no borders, race, gender, or sexuality. It’s a community that represents a safe path to self-expression and new talents discover their craft every day. From photographers to fashion designers, these are the talented newcomers that will soon, yet surely, take the industry by storm.
MARI ANA FERREIRA PHOTOGRA PHER
The youngest talent in our watchlist, Mariana Ferreira is an 18-year-old photographer from Brazil. A film student and lover of the arts through and through, she is the living proof that, sometimes, all you need to do to find your hidden talent is taking inspiration from your family.
6
Photography: Mariana Ferrei ra Model: Giulia Ungaret t i
What made you want to be a photographer? My family have always been interested in cinema and photography. The more I got into movies, the more I fell in love with cinematography. At some point, I borrowed my brother’s camera and taking pictures and making videos.
What’s your favourite thing about your craft? Photography can make us see beauty in everything. It also makes me feel free to express myself. Being a photographer made me appreciate more the world and life around me.
7
PHOTOGRA PHY: CHRI STI NA M IT RE A | HA I R AN D MA K EU P: A NDR A PE T R E A | M ODE L : RON KE ALU KO
ANDRA PETREA H A I R A ND M A KEU P A RTI ST
A London-based Romanian hair and makeup artist, Andra Petrea started her creative journey three years ago. “I’d never really thought about makeup as a career, but I have never looked back. I think it was the wisest decision I ever made,” she reveals.
What is your favourite thing about your job? Working with fellow creatives and help bring ideas to life. I also love helping people look like the best possible version of themselves.
What inspires you the most when working with makeup? I get inspired by many things, but especially by elements of chiaroscuro, textures and I absolutely love colours. Those elements are my biggest inspirations.
What has been your biggest achievement? I’ve had the pleasure of meeting my idol, Alex Box and working with her team. It was an incredible experience. I’m really looking forward to my next adventure.
Photog ra p hy: C hristina Mitrea Ha i r a nd m a keup : And rea Petrea St yl ist : Ma hatm a Santo nino Michael (To p) Mo d e l : Roxa na Gav rau (b otto m)
9
ZENTY AZMI PHOTOGRA PHER
A young Malaysian photographer, Zenty Azmi, is yet another talent who has swapped her roots for the never-ending list of creative opportunities the global city of London has to offer.
What is your favourite way to shoot? It always has to involve a lot of colours. I find colours to be visually interesting when doing a shoot.
What is it about photography that fascinates and inspires you the most? Definitely the opportunity to get to know my subjects. Knowing what they like and dislike helps me frame my subject better. It allows me to build a narrative within images to the best of my abilities.
Photography: Zent y A zmi Photographic A ssist ant : Naim Heerah Makeup art ist : Mihaela Angela Models: Samuel Hew (left ) and V ictor Amoda (r i g ht )
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MORENA CUTELLO FA S HI ON DES I GNER
Italian born and raised, London- based. When it comes down to it, that’s how the life and career of fashion designer Morena Cutello can be described. “It’s in London that my brand, Morena Cutello Italian Womenswear, is registered, but my roots are Italian, my creativity is Italian, and my thoughts are Italian,” reveals the designer.
What fascinates you the most about fashion design? Ever since I was a little girl I’ve loved creating clothes and art. For me, the fashion designer takes parts of his life — experiences, knowledge, ideas, roots, expressions, and tastes — and channels them into pieces of fabric. A fashion piece, a work of art, is then born. The fashion designer has the responsibility of giving the wearer of their clothes a moment of happiness by making them feel and look better.
What should a good portfolio look like? We must build our portfolios based on what we are, what we think, and what we want to say. To be unique is the true goal. Portfolios should describe who we are and tell our story. Make sure people get a feeling of who you are through your work, passion, drawings and creations.
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FA SH ION D ES IG NE R : M OR E NA CU T E LLO | PH OTOG R A PH Y: SU R BHI JA I N
THE BIG HOW TO MAKE IT INTO THE FASHION INDUSTRY
5
1
2
Take initiative, no matter the risk.
Research, research, research. Al-
Any experience is good experi-
ways know what is happening
ence, especially if you haven’t
around you — from the history of
found your place in the industry.
fashion to the latest political news.
3 Be yourself. Uniqueness is the fashion industry’s middle name.
4
5
Network by creating and maintain-
Work as hard as you possibly can.
ing good relationships everywhere
Have a strong digital presence,
you go. You never know when
showcase your work every chance
those might become useful.
you got and never give up.
P O EM BY HA ILEY WE NDLING
Spray on the foundation use pencils to cover this brick’s face reflected cold and safe in frosted glass windows. Smother the cracks plastic, cement & creams close up the seams, no cracks in this glass. Lies stick to your lips in a glossy pout. Smoke the eyes out – the building’s on fire.
NARCISSISM THE TALE OF A NAMESAKE BRAND
TALKING THE JOYS AND STRUGGLES OF BEING YOUR OWN FASHION BOSS
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE IMAG E S CO URTESY OF JOÃO QU EI RÓS AT NA RCI SS I SM
Never before has the world of fashion held
irós. Adhering to an arguable cliché backstory,
such power over a single generation. If, be-
as a young child, he used to dress his sister’s
fore, artistic traits were thought of as noth-
dolls, from top to bottom. His inspiration truly
ing more than nuisances they are now being
struck through the female anime heroes of the
embraced to their full potential. By turning
90s: “I don't know why but I used to spend
creative dreamers into full-time creators, the
hours drawing their garments, over and over
millennial generation keeps venturing into a
again.”
reality of levelled-escapism.
Originally from Portugal, he studied his craft
This new wave of creatives is finally taking
for three years. Now in London, he is now a
their own reigns. They are choosing to take
student at University of the Arts London, a
control of their lives, career and success. A
part-time worker, and business owner. “I have
new independent label is born every day, ev-
always tried to keep my brand moving; wheth-
erywhere. But how easily is the decision of be-
er it’s with photoshoot requests for magazines
coming your own boss made?
or designing new collections.”
João Queirós is a young East London-based
Narcissism, Queirós’ brand, was born by the
designer with his very own brand, Narcissism.
end of his fashion design degree, in Portugal.
We sat down for a chat with the designer to
Rooted in ambition, and with the aim to create
find out the biggest struggles and joys of get-
something from nothing, “I tried to come up
ting out of bed every day and answering to no
with something that would me make me stand
one but yourself.
out,” reveals the designer.
“My obsession with fashion and design has
The concept took a turn for the unexpected
been with me since I can remember,” says Que-
when, in the middle of the creative process, he
17
18
experienced a severe case of heartbreak. The
Queirós having united his academic work with
brand was supposed to be very romantic and
his own. “If I have a concept assessment that
sensitive, with “romantic and ethereal, with
requires me to create random garments, I use
nature-inspired themes and feminine-looking
that opportunity to create a full new collection
garments,” reveals Queirós. After a complete
for my brand. I don’t have time for hypotheti-
reboot, he decided that romantic girls already
cal things right now,” says the designer.
had enough clothes available to them. The
But the joy of owning his own brand so early in
concept of Narcissism ended up growing roots
his career hasn’t been exactly a struggle-free
inspired by heavy metal. “I wanted to create
experience. Money is the biggest obstacle to
bad-ass looks that only equally bad-ass girls
overcome. “I always almost have a nervous
with broken hearts could wear,” he says.
meltdown when the time to actually create the
Like all great designers, Queirós is under the
collections comes — the expensive fabrics, the
fascination of a personal inspirational influ-
patterns… And if you don’t have any friends in
ence. “I always design my garments with one
the area, models, photographers, stylists and
specific person in mind: my muse, my friend,
makeup and hair artists are also something
Joana Silva.” Ever since the pair met, Queirós
you need to worry about. Even doing the gar-
has been in love with both her style and per-
ment tags is expensive,” reveals Queirós.
sonality. So much that, every time the design-
There is a lot involved when bringing a small
er starts a new project, being it a collection or
collection to life, “it’s not just a couple of
even just a specific garment, he always makes
pounds coupled with a few hours behind a
sure the finished product would look good on
sewing machine,” says Queirós. “I think we
her.
should all be more cooperative. But I do get it,
Since having unpacked his life in East Lon-
we all need money.”
don, Queirós says his biggest achievement
Nowadays, nothing comes free of a price. The
has been maintaining a life where he is able
designer feels that London lacks a more coop-
to work, study and taking care of his brand,
erative atmosphere. Professional friendships
Narcissism. The brand’s third collection is now
between the different fields of fashion are
completed and ready to be sent into produc-
also hard to find. The city does have its posi-
tion, while the fourth one is in its early stages
tive aspects, though. Here, there’s a freedom
of conception. This has only been possible by
to create, no matter the style.
NARCISSISM SEASON 1 S/S18
Overall, Queirós’ career as the talent behind Narcissism is well on its way to becoming an inspirational success story for young creatives and entrepreneurs. His experience has been one of handwork and persistence. “Create the brand you would want to wear,” concludes Queirós. After all, fashion has a long history of applauding originality. Embrace it.
Fashion Designer: João Queirós Model: Joana Silva Photography and edit ing: João Queirós Behind- t he- scenes assist ant : Sara Coelho
19
the sound of
FASHION EXPLORING THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION AND MUSIC
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE
20
Abundant in mutual creativity, the worlds of
“I remember Cyndi Lauper’s ‘Girls Just Want
fashion and music are forever in correlation.
to Have Fun’ video. Her voice… Her quirky,
While music provides the sounds, fashion
1980s upbeat and individual style… It was like
gives our lives the possibility of an endless
instant love,” says Lucy Eggleton, fashion and
wardrobe. United, both worlds form a uni-
costume designer at Berlin-based Lu La Loop.
verse that lies in escapism.
“I never imagined myself as a fashion designer.
With music acting as the soundtrack of our
I don’t care for trends. I care about the cre-
lives, musicians often create stage-only perso-
ative energy. I want to have fun,” says Eggle-
nas with unique and extravagant styles. From
ton, who closely works with musician and
Madonna to Michael Jackson and David Bow-
noise artist Aja. “Perhaps that’s why I always
ie, each generation has been seeing their most
seem to gravitate towards artists who are raw,
iconic musicians trending for more than just
original, and combine their unique styles in
their songs.
both their music and fashion choices.I love
“I think the relationship between fashion and
costume design and how it works with music
music is absolutely crucial in the formula of
and performance,” adds the designer.
what makes a truly iconic artist,” says photog-
“I think the correlation between music and
rapher Zachariah Mahrouche. It’s no longer
fashion has always been subliminally present,”
just about the music. Rather, the direction of
says Mahrouche, “I have always been fascinat-
the visuals and styling of the artist is just as
ed by the context of musical eras and their re-
important when trying to conquer a place in
flective fashions.”
history.
Like all arts, fashion and music are closely
The more intriguing and eye-catching the look
united. And there’s nothing better than an im-
of a musician, the more likely their music will
age of their fascinating union to better reflect
be heard by the rest of the world.
on different past eras.
A J A | C O S T U M E : L U L A L O O P, P H O T O G R A P H Y : L A U R A K A T E B E M R O S E
D R AWI N G BY C L E R E SA K AWR E H
THE TOP HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FASHION BUSINESS
1 Never settle for second. It’s called the second place, not the first, for a reason. Work hard, always.
2 Trust no one but yourself. The fashion industry, although cooperative, is highly competitive. A little self-trust goes a long way.
3 Be clear about your unique selling point. Create something that no one has and everyone will want.
3
THE ETHICAL REVOLUTION HOW MILLENNIALS ARE REVOLUTIONISING THE FASHION INDUSTRY
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE IMAG E S CO URTESY OF THE FA S HI ON REVO LU TI ON
24
With strong views on political, social, envi-
lain of the industry. However, with all the eth-
ronmental, and economic practices, as well as
ical and environmental issues that non-sus-
just about any other subject, millennials are
tainable companies have raised, it has become
inciting a revolution upon the fashion indus-
hard to live whilst ignoring a constant siren
try. By advocating against underpaid workers,
calling everyone to protect our planet.
unethical practices, and prejudiced-induced
The ethical revolution of fashion is not a mo-
social issues, this generation is the contempo-
ment, it’s a movement. And millennials are
rary epitome of a socially-conscious consum-
taking charge. According to trend forecasting
er. But how are millennials fighting fashion’s
company WGSN this is a cohort that has made
good fight?
it their mission to advocate for conscious con-
Fast fashion, with its cheaper price tags and
sumerism. They are twice as likely, than any
trendy designs, is often thought of as the vil-
other generation, to invest in products that
have been ethically-sourced and made by sus-
for companies that showcase transparency in
tainable brands.
their practices.
“I started to realise the lack of concern to-
With fast fashion being told as the villain of
wards ethical and environmental issues in
this tale, shoppers have turned towards in the
the fashion industry around a year and a half
luxury market in hopes of buying into the opu-
ago. The weekly release of collections and the
lent, yet ethical, lifestyle. However, the sense
massive production of pieces is unsustainable
of sustainability that luxury brands seem to
for the planet and everyone involved in those
thrive off is often false. “They just don’t think
chains of production,” reveals fashion blogger
people are going to be asking the questions,”
and sustainable fashion advocate Mariana Ra-
says Anthony Kleanthous, a senior policy ad-
poso.
viser at WWF, to Financial Times.
Earlier this year, Bernard Arnault, CEO of lux-
A study conducted by WWF also revealed that,
ury group LVMH, officially became the richest
while consumers tend to use luxury products
person in fashion — overthrowing Amancio
as symbols to represent their own success,
Ortega, founder of fast fashion conglomerate
they now prefer brands that reflect their per-
Inditex. This, more than ever, enhanced that,
sonal social and environmental concerns. This
not only are millennials leading the ethical
shift is proving that brands that make a point
revolution, but they are also combining their
of being transparent regarding their practices
social consciousness with their ever-growing
and commitment to sustainability are starting
spending power. Global information and data
to outperform those that have chosen to stay
company Nielsen has confirmed that this gen-
silent.
eration is even set to beat the baby boomer
Cue in Fashion Revolution, a global movement
generation in terms of consumerism.
calling for a greater transparency, sustainabil-
WGSN also reports that, while consumers still
ity, and concern for ethical issues from fash-
indulge in some fast fashion shopping, they
ion brands. “We love fashion. But we don’t
are becoming more and more informed about
want our clothes to exploit people or destroy
the sustainability and ethicality of how and
our planet. We demand radical, revolutionary
where their clothes are being made. Currently,
change,” reads its manifesto.
there are also a lot of financial opportunities
The goal is for all consumers to come togeth-
25
26
er and use their voices to change the fashion
and equal pay, respect for cultures and heri-
industry. By launching the #WhoMadeMy-
tages, and a conservation of the environment.
Clothes initiative, Fashion Revolution has cre-
“Fashion never subjugates, denigrates, de-
ated a tool that allows us to, finally, find out
grades, marginalises or compromises. Fashion
which brands are engaging in sustainable and
celebrates life,” concludes the manifesto.
ethical practices — and which ones are not.
More than ever before, millennials have a clear
“Use your voice to change the fashion indus-
idea of right and wrong — and are keen on
try,” encourages Fashion Revolution.
fighting for their ideal world. “I think we’ve re-
“Knowing where a piece of clothing was made
alised that time is running out. The time to put
gives us direct access to how and who it was
an end to the injustices that keep persisting
made by and helps us make more informed de-
and the time to ensure that life in this world
cisions regarding our own fashion purchases,”
will still be possible for future generations,”
reveals Raposo.
adds Raposo.
The movement’s manifesto also calls for trans-
The revolution is far from over. And millennials
parency from brands, dignified work with fair
are not taking no for an answer.
I LLU S TRATIO N BY P E DRO SANTOS
ART IN THE NAME OF
FASHION IN CONVERSATION WITH THE TALENT BEHIND MADISON AVENUE’S SILVERWARE DRESS
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE IMAGES COU RTESY OF FI LI PA M OTA
The relationship between the worlds of fash-
nity to learn more about fashion editorial de-
ion and art can be thought of as a symbiotic
sign,” she reveals.
one. Though fashion can’t exist without art,
Like most creatives in the making, Mota had to
the latter often disregards the former with a
uplift her life from her home country of Portu-
passion. Forever doomed to be an affair of ri-
gal for a better chance of successfully pursu-
valry, yet of harmony.
ing a career in the arts. Having already expe-
True balance is achieved when the two worlds
rienced the American lifestyle, during her year
collide. Filipa Mota, a design student at the
abroad in Boston, Massachusetts, she ended
School of Visual Arts (SVA) in the city of New
up enrolling at SVA.
York, proved that a union between the two
Most fashion and art studios having offices, or
creative universes is not only possible but ec-
even their headquarters, in New York. There’s
static. We talked with the talent behind the
little to no doubt that, for anyone in a creative
silverware dress that adorned the front of
field, the Big Apple is the place to be.
the Dolce and Gabbana store, in Manhattan’s
“I love how resourceful New York City is.
Madison Avenue.
There are so many great museums, galleries,
“I’ve always been fascinated by the world of
theatres, musicals, and libraries. The street art,
art and design,” says Mota. Although there
the architecture... It really makes it hard for me
from the start, her interest in fashion grew
to want to be anywhere else,” Mota confesses.
stronger and she grew older. In fact, it was
It’s a truth universally acknowledged, howev-
that very passion that led her to study graphic
er, that artists and creatives across the world
design in university. “It gave me the opportu-
have always had their craft underestimated,
29
30
and often ignored, by the rest of the world.
with a number of obstacles. The 1920s-style
“One of the things that worries me most is
cocktail dress is made of 382 forks, 59 spoons
how tough it could be to constantly work
and two ladles — while its accompanying bag
with clients that don’t trust your creative de-
uses 50 forks and two ladles.
cisions,” says Mota. Perhaps it’s easy to think
“The biggest challenge was understanding the
about the possibility of living in a world with-
best way to make everything stay put,” reveals
out art up until the realisation that creativity
Mota, “the stainless steel of the silverware is
is everywhere.
really smooth and it doesn’t adhere easily. The
Despite the tender age, Mota’s career as a de-
weight of the design was also what made it so
signer has already gotten its fair share of ex-
complex. The dress is super heavy,” adds Mota.
posure. Although admitting that she hasn’t yet
The finished piece was installed in its own
found her rightful place in the creative indus-
glass case and found a temporary home in
try, some of her past projects have already left
front of the Dolce and Gabbana store in Man-
their mark on the streets of the city Mota now
hattan’s Madison Avenue.
calls home.
So what’s next for the young designer? “I’ve
As part of a collaboration between SVA and
already started thinking about what my life
the Madison Avenue Business Improvement
will be like after college,” says Mota, who is
District, Mota joined the One-of-a-Kind Luxu-
graduating from SVA in a year from now. “Al-
ry event and exhibition. The task at hand? Cre-
though I absolutely love how fast-paced life
ating a fashion ensemble made out of a single
in New York is, I can’t really predict whether
material.
or not I’ll stay in the city. I guess I’ll find out
The designer’s choice of using silverware came
sooner rather than later!”
THE ESSENTIAL JOB AND INTERNSHIP INTERVIEW TIPS
1
4
2
Be vocal — it’s interview etiquette to
Tailor your outfit to the place you’re
ask questions. Do your research and
interviewing for. Express yourself —
have some thoughtful ones prepared.
but do keep it professional.
3
4
Being fashionably late does not apply
Attitude! Never underestimate the
to job and internship interviews. Be
power of confidence, a charming
on time — or earlier!
smile, and a firm handshake.
FROM BLOGGER TO JOURNALIST
the fashion influencer IN CONVERSATION WITH CAROLINA SANTIAGO, THE FASHION BLOGGER TURNED JOURNALIST
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE IMAG E S COU RTESY OF CA ROLI NA SA NTI AGO
Life is full of passions and first loves. From
expected. Her growth, both as a blogger and
music and dancing to writing and composing,
as a person has been natural and progres-
most people live the illusion that their biggest
sive. Santiago is, indeed, a firm believer of
fascinations can’t be anything but hobbies in
the “whatever needs to happen, it will happen
their lives.
when I’m ready” mantra.
Carolina Santiago has been a fashion blogger
But what has inspired the blogger to take the
for the past six years. Her love for writing, pho-
step the fashion industry seems to dread the
tography and creating her very own fictional
most and try to become an established jour-
world has turned her blog, Heaven Rose, into
nalist? Her love for fashion combined with
the love of her life. We talked to the blogger
her adoration for people and communication
turned journalist about her passions and the
sealed the deal early on.
transition that has kept the fashion industry
“I’m so fascinated by the fashion industry be-
on its feet.
cause it’s a very self-expressing industry — no
The now fully grown Heaven Rose was born
judgements or limitations. And journalism is
at a time where escapism was a necessity.
underrated. The world heavily needs it and,
When forced to choose a path that would set
sometimes, people are unaware of that need.
her on a career, Santiago was forced to make
The fact that I get to be so close to people
a decision that could not possibly be made in
and communicate and inform them makes me
a lighthearted way. “I felt like I needed to find
really happy,” admits Santiago.
myself and share my passions with the world,
“Besides, the fashion industry is highly cre-
give them a purpose,” she reveals.
ative and innovative, there’s something new
“My blog is something that is very mine. It’s
and different happening every day. I love to
so personal and it reflects me in a way that
be able to be creative and, at the same time,
nothing else does — it’s the union of many of
to always be informed. Journalism helps me to
my fascinations,” says Santiago.
feel even more connected to the world,” San-
After six years of shooting, editing, drafting,
tiago adds.
writing, posting, repeat, the Heaven Rose blog
Fashion and journalism form the perfect wed-
has taken Santiago on a journey she had never
ding for Santiago. But while both worlds seem
33
to coexist, they don’t often collide. “The biggest difference between writing for my blog and writing as a journalist is how subjective I can be! As a journalist, I have to be a more professional version of me and tailor myself to the field. On the Heaven Rose I can be myself, in a worry-free, unfiltered way,” says Santiago. “I want my blog readers to share the love I feel for my online nest. I want them to think of me as less than a blogger and more of a close friend — I like to think there’s there’s a high proximity between who writes and who reads,” reveals Santiago, “but mainly, I want them to be inspired at all levels!” It’s no secret that the fashion industry doesn’t bow down to bloggers in professional settings, but Santiago has somehow managed to only reap the advantages of being a digital influencer. “My blog has already helped me a lot because it allows me to showcase my skills and that’s something that’s appreciated in a journalistic way,” she reveals. “I do think that the professional journalism industry can be quite closed off to bloggers and digital influencers, though. But I think that’s the way it should be. Journalists need to know what they’re doing. Now that I’m finishing my journalism degree I understand that better than ever,” adds Santiago. But given the chance, Santiago would become a professional, full-time blogger and never look back. “My love for blogging blossomed before my passion for journalism. I can’t shake it, even if I wanted to. The person behind the Heaven Rose is the truest version of me, unfiltered, and doing what she loves most,” she says. “Just thinking that I could do what I love for the rest of my life and make a living out of it leaves me with butterflies all over my stomach,” concludes Santiago. Truly, that’s all any of us can hope to feel one day. Photographers: João Duque (top) Francisca Larawan (bot tom) Misto | Pedro Teixeira e Bárbara Rodrigues (previou s p age)
IL LUSTR ATION BY SOF IA E SPAD IN H A M A RT I N S
yellow days P HOTOGRA PHY: FRA NCI S CA LA RAWA N MODEL: SA FI YA H BENNI NGTON ASSISTA NT: REM EKA WA SHI NGTON-WI NT
ILLU S TRATIO N BY EMA RIBE IRA
THE OTHER SIDE OF FASHION TALKING THE LIVES AND CAREERS OF MODELS
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE
44
Between the everlasting retouching and the
when it celebrates the people involved in the
constant eating disorders, the modelling in-
creative process, not when it destroys them,”
dustry is not as glamorous as it paints itself
said model Eddie Campbell in an open letter to
to be. For decades, models were treated like
Women’s Wear Daily.
silent dolls — seen but never heard.
These poor conditions are common across the
Social media, as well as the rise of movements
industry, yet the world of fashion has know-
— like the #MeToo campaign — that promote
ingly turned a blind eye for years. “Now models
the end of sexual harassment in the workplace,
have social media platforms, so even if they’re
has given models a voice they didn’t have be-
not incredibly well known, they can still have
fore. But what is it really like to be a model?
a relatively big following and articulate their
“Modelling, although it was never my full-time
views in a way they weren’t able to do before,”
job, it is very stressful in the beginning. You
said Francesca Granata, director of the mas-
need to build your portfolio and you will not
ter’s program in fashion studies at Parsons, to
get any profit from it,” said Florbela Abranch-
the New York Times.
es, a part-time model signed with Sapphires
“Being a model can be burdensome at times
Model Management.
as it’s so centred on how everyone looks. But
The fashion world is small, closed, and way too
now that personality is also being brought into
gossipy for its own good. Rumours are heard,
the fold it seems like the industry is chang-
and sometimes believed, yet little to no action
ing,” says Shaun Flores, a model signed with
is taken. Long queues under unlit stairways,
Evv Models.
abuse of authority, and lack of payment are
In light of multiple sexual harassment accu-
just a few of the multiple issues models have
sations, some of fashion’s favourite photog-
to endure before they reach a point in their ca-
raphers, such as Bruce Weber, Mario Testino,
reers in which they’re allowed to say: ‘enough
and Terry Richardson, have been suspended
is enough’.
from Condé Nast titles. However, while the
“There need to be boundaries. There must be
rest of the world feigned surprise, the fashion
limits to the creative process. Fashion is great
industry was left with a sense of banality.
“You hear a lot of horror stories about photographers. Agencies can also be a bit of a nightmare to deal with in terms of transparency. Sometimes it feels like everyone’s only in it for themselves so you have to learn to be firm about what you want. If you’re too compliant you will get exploited,” says Mia Ford, a freelance part-time model. “Fortunately, everyone has always treated me super nicely and I was always comfortable during the shoots, but I know a few models who’ve had bad experiences. Modelling should be taken as a serious job and any abuse of power shouldn’t happen. Models should always feel safe and comfortable,” adds Abranches. But while the #MeToo campaign has done its best to try to remove the shame that follows the victims of sexual assault, there are industry figures who remain unbothered. “It’s unbelievable. If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model! Join a nunnery, there’ll always be a place for you in the convent. They’re recruiting even,” said fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld to Numéro. “The fashion industry certainly leaves much to be desired and as glamorous and fun as it should be, you meet a lot of discontent models and photographers alike,” reveals Ford. In an ideal world, however, “the relationship between the team and the models should resemble a family relationship,” reveals Claudia Voigt, a booker at Karacter Agency. “I think of all the models I’m responsible for as friends and ‘family’.” With Condé Nast’s new code of conduct for shoots that aims to end and protect all models from sexual harassment, it seems that unacceptable behaviour is being put to a stop, at least temporarily. Here’s to turning a new, permanent, and flash-resistant, leaf.
Top: Florbela Abranches Middle: Shaun Flores Bot tom: Mia Ford
45
THE
ART SCHOOL EXPERIENCE IN CONVERSATION WITH CREATIVE SOULS ABOUT TO ENTER THE MILLENNIAL WORKING WORLD
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE
Dreaming of a career in the creative worlds of
school experiences and their biggest fears
fashion and art can be frustrating at many lev-
about trying to break into the industry.
els. Questions such: ‘what is the right path to
“My favourite thing about the creative indus-
follow’ and ‘will I be able to make a living’ will
try is the visionaries within it, especially in
swirl in your mind in an infinite loop.
London. It’s a constant cycle of people always
Once you decide that creativity shall be your
bringing such innovative ideas and using all
future’s plan, it’s time to choose your next
the amazing art spaces to create and influence
step. Are art universities worth their tuition
others,” says Whitney Harrison, a final-year
money? And what are they really like? Truth
fashion journalism student at University for
be told, when we think about art schools and
the Creative Arts (UCA).
fashion internships, more often than not, pop-
“My routine is never the same and I get the
ular culture references such as movies and re-
chance to be closer to creative people that
ality shows tend to make an appearance.
I’ve always admired,” says Sophie Brunker, a
“Fashion education has grown enormously in
final-year fashion marketing and management
scale compared to ten years ago,” says Sara
student at UCA.
Kozlowski, a director at Council of Fashion
Between shiny magazines, popular culture
Designers of America to Business of Fashion.
references and the, often unreachable, stan-
Whether you’re quietly enjoying the London
dards, going to an art and fashion school is an
sun or strolling across the city and bumping
experience far less glamorous than typically
into Central Saint Martins and the rest of the
portrayed. It requires personality, talent and,
University of the Arts London club, artistic en-
above everything else, an insane amount of
vironments will always remain somewhat of a
hard work. Even if the name of the universi-
mystery to the outside world. We asked three
ty you choose to go carries the weight of the
soon-to-be fashion graduates about their art
world, the stakes to break into the industry af-
47
48
ter leaving the safe nest of higher education
prised me. Although I chose to focus my stud-
have never been higher.
ies on fashion journalism, I realised that the
“The market has become so competitive that
opportunities and career paths that I can take
very often the very best fashion companies
are incredibly broad. I’ve had so many oppor-
can take their pick, so they will go for the grad-
tunities over the past three years and I learnt
uates who are the most rounded and the most
much more than I could have ever imagined,”
educated,” reveals Christopher Moore, direc-
says Harrison.
tor of the British School of Fashion at Glasgow
“Although I enjoyed my experience at an art
Caledonian University to The Guardian.
school, all these ideas I had about finding
“There is so much creativeness going on so it
my tribe and people I deeply connected with
can sometimes appear to be a competition.
didn’t happen. Although it was amazing and it
The creative industry should be about cel-
helped me set off on the right path, the loca-
ebrating other people’s ideas and to be in-
tion of the made it feel more like a college and
spired, not disheartened, by their work,” says
less like a university,” admits Brunker.
Harrison.
“My experience was good. I got some opportu-
“I’m scared that, after I leave university, I won’t
nities to work within the industry and increase
stay in the loop of things. The fashion indus-
my knowledge. But I do wish that I’d had more
try is still quite full of enclosed groups and it’s
freedom when deciding the concept for my
all about who you know. That’s why I’m trying
collections and designs. We often have strict
to stay within London, as it’s the centre of all
guides that we have to follow and that can di-
things creative,” Harrison adds.
minish creativity,” says Peseiro.
“I’m scared of not having enough resources to
Overall, going to art school seems to be the
create my own brand and company,” says Mar-
right decision for all creatives in the making.
ta Peseiro, a final-year fashion design student
From industry placements and countless net-
at Southampton Solent University.
work opportunities, the fashion and art indus-
“I think, after university, making the right con-
tries have it in themselves to accommodate all
tacts with right people will be essential to try
true talent.
and move from an internship to a full-time po-
Ready to tackle on the fashion industry, Harri-
sition,” says Brunker.
son concludes: “art school has taught me to be
But what is an art school experience really
more independent, rock my own rhythm, and
like? “My university experience definitely sur-
have faith in my bad taste.”
ILLU S TRATIO N BY SOF IA E SPADINHA MARTINS
the accessory wardrobe FROM MELTED METAL TO POLISHED STONES: WHAT REALLY IS JEWELLERY’S ROLE IN FASHION?
WORDS BY RI TA PETRONE IMAG E S COU RTESY OF M A RI A GLEZELLI
From beaded necklaces made in ancient
an area in which there is no fixed path to
times to luxury brands such as Cartier and
success.
Harry Winston, jewellery has taken its fair
We talked with Maria Glezelli, a Greek
number of shapes and sizes throughout
jewellery designer based in London to
the centuries.
better understand the role of accessories
Designing jewellery comes from master-
in the world of fashion.
ing the skills of drafting, designing, and
“It was when I was studying and research-
working with more materials than one can
ing the boundaries between fashion and
name. Whether you’re creating sophis-
art that I realised how a piece of art may
ticated and polished pieces or raw and
be connected to a female body and define
unique designs, accessory designing is
its identity,” says Glezelli, “I believe that
51
52
the human body is the most intriguing me-
inner selves, our thoughts and beliefs.
dium you can use to explore and express
Jewellery can narrate historical moments
your own aesthetics.”
and it even has the power to define entire
Glezelli studied in Greece, at the Univer-
civilisations,” adds the designer.
sity of Fine Arts, and it was there that she
Being a jewellery designer means facing
first came in contact with metal. “I imme-
the familiar struggles of the fashion in-
diately started to experiment with it, try-
dustry.
ing to reshape it and push its boundaries,”
Balancing production costs with unique-
admits the designer. After a final gradu-
ness and exclusivity isn’t always easy.
ate project that focused on wearable gar-
“One of my biggest challenges is trying
ments made through the means of metal,
to be creative and innovative at the same
Glezelli’s path to becoming a jewellery de-
time that I’m trying to create a product
signer was never put to a stop.
that needs to be commercially successful,”
The then soon-to-be established designer
admits Glizelli.
went on to work as a freelancer by cre-
But where do fashion and jewellery inter-
ating original designs in her workshop in
sect? For Glezelli, it’s all about how both
Greece. “I can proudly say that I creat-
areas connect by exploring and showcas-
ed everything from scratch. From design
ing the human body. “Both fashion and
to production, my jewellery pieces were
jewellery can add a unique touch to our
brought to life by me,” Glezelli reveals.
styles and showcase our personalities,”
For Glezelli, jewellery should be a part of
she says.
a bigger narrative. “Every piece I create
“My goal is always to create wearable
has a story behind it. My main idea that I
pieces that, not only enhance the wear-
want to establish is the connection with
er’s potential to its fullest but also makes
our heritage, our bond to the past, to our
them free to wear my designs in all sorts
present, and to the future,” she says.
of different ways,” concludes Glezelli.
“I’ve found that jewellery can express our
Where to next? To freedom.
D R AWI N G BY C L E R E SA K AWR E H
THE FANTASTIC HOW T O BU I L D A C R E AT I V E P ORT FOL IO
5
1
2
Collaborate! Creative, profession-
Be selective. Your favourite work
al friendships are key in arts and
might not be your best work.
fashion industries.
Choose your projects wisely.
3 From simple to more complex, include a wide range of your work.
4
5
Choose the format that best lets
As both you and your career grow
your work shine. It’s print versus
and evolve, so does your work.
digital — why not both?
Update your portfolio frequently.
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