Canadian Jeweller Magazine April 2012 Edition by Rive Gauche Media

fo r th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 2

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NEW S! IE SER

BaselWorld

2012 review

The next generation of jewellers, part 2

To catch a thief

Family legacy lives on Bernard Florence, Calgary Jewellery

SPECIAL JCK LAS VEGAS PREVIEW PLUS: ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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24 Gold Group Ltd.

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 120

Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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4/4/12 1:08:27 PM

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my ﬁrst interview with the company.

For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 120

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise. Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem. Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 ADVERTISER: GIA

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PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

3/9/11 9:35 AM 4/4/12 11:58:30 AM

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 120

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller. And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

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Dependable Consistency. Unparalleled Service. Brilliant Canadian Diamonds. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for melee or serialized diamonds, Stuller offers the widest selection of shapes and sizes in the industry, including Canadian diamonds. As a DTC Sightholder, we ensure that your customer receives an exceptional diamond every time, backed by our strict grading standards, dedication and commitment to excellence. Call us at 800-877-7777 for an exclusive list of Canadian diamonds

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 120

all accompanied by a Canada Mark Certificate of Origin.

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Made in Canada with Canadian gold

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For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 120

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca

4/4/12 11:49:24 AM

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

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For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 88.

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 120

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 120 CJAPR2012_8720_Lotus_Kameleon_DPS.indd 19

4/4/12 11:48:45 AM

For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 120 CJAPR2012_8720_Lotus_Kameleon_DPS.indd 20

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ESTABLISHED 1879 APRIL/MAY 2012 • VOL. 133, NO. 3 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com Shuttleworth Managing | .lynne@gorgmgo.com EstablishEd 1879 Lynne January/february 2011 • volEditor . 132, no 1 Erin Zeynep Güler-Tuck Associate Editor | erinzeynep@gorgmgo.com Irina Lytchak Editoral | irina@gorgmgo.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Laurie O’Handley Editoral Intern | intern@gorgmgo.com Carol besler Consulting Scott Jordan ArtEditor Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer

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CONtRibUtORs chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean SALES MacKinnon, DuncanASSOCIATE parker, lihnPUBLISHER pham, Dean Lucy Holden sanderson, bonnie siegler. TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 EMAIL

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all Published by areRive Gauche ii inc. representations or warranties made in such advertising those of theMedia advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault theproduct publisher and in such event the limit of the publisher’s liability not exceed charge No portion of this publication canada post canadian publications Mailof sales Agreement No.an 40678000. the publisher does not assume anyshall responsibility forthe theamount contentsofofthe anypublisher’s advertisement andfor anysuch and advertising. all mayin besuch reproduced, inare all or part, the express permission ofpublisher the publisher. Jeweller magazine pleased to unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration representations or warranties made advertising those of without the advertiser and notwritten of the publisher. the is notCanadian liable to any advertiser for anyismisprints inreview advertising not under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication and their affi forwritten editorial purposesof inthe anypublisher. media (whether printed, etc.) unsolicited without thesubmissions consent of,for or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such may be reproduced, in all or part, without theliates express permission canadian Jewellerelectronic, magazine internet, is pleaseddisc, to review editorial consideration material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

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[FEATURES]

46 52 APRIL/MAY 2012

36. creating customer experiences ocial Media can help you understand and connect S with your customers

38. Countering Counterfeits What’s the furor about fakes? They take money away from the true innovators and creators

46. FAMILY LEGACY Calgary Jewellery was founded in 1955 - its success lies in changing with the times

52. SILVER LINING Thanks to the high price of gold, silver has jumped into the limelight

56. BEAUTY MEETS CRAFTSMANSHIP AT BASEL

70. IN IT FOR LIFE How new-generation jewellers are making their mark on the industry

76. The BIGGER THE BETTER Consumers seek out bold, dramatic pieces that make a statement

82. FULL PROTECTION Your insurance should cover everything from equipment breakdown, to theft, and tornado damage

84. SMART ADVERTISING Cooperative advertising helps small to medium businesses compete

90. Buy what sells Effective inventory management depends on reordering your fast-selling, fine jewellery immediately

Believe the hype–this year’s BaselWorld show was amazing

CJ a p r i l / m ay 2 0 1 2 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 2:39:18 PM

For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 120

3521, boulevard Thimens St-Laurent, QuĂŠbec H4R 1V5 tel. (514) 337-4455 fax. (514) 337-4581 info@wengersltd.com info@wengersltd.com

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fax. (514) 337-4581 tel. (514) 337-4455

4/4/12 1:14:19 PM

64 30

[DEPARTMENTS] APRIL/MAY 2012 16.

Letter from the editor

18.

Product profiles

26.

star watch

28. Who’s news 30. For the record 64. Passion and precision Giovanni Vaccaro thrives on the principle of pride in a job well done, which his parents instilled in him

92. the art of being different Robert Smith created Lotus, Kameleon and JewelPop so jewellery consumers would have more choice

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www.canadianjeweller.com

www.facebook.com/CJMag

www.twitter.com/CJMag TM

96. To catch a thief Sharing information and staying networked can help jewellers deter and deal with robberies

112. Showcase/marketplace 120. Fax back 122. Last word

SPÉCIAL : CJ en français 66. LE CENTRE DE FORMATION PROFESSIONNELLE MAURICE-BARBEAU 68. LE PLAN NORD

4/4/12 2:28:41 PM

OUR COLLECTIONS

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 120

Cultured Freshwater Fashion | Akoya | Cultured Freshwater Premium

Suggested Retail: $299.95

Phone: 1.866.682.6823

TIG-ImperialPearls.indd 1 CJAPR2012_9782_TIG-Group_02_FP.indd 19

Email: marketing@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca 2012-03-13 12:06 PM 4/4/12 1:12:45 PM

letterfromtheeditor

An exciting spring season Thanks to all who took the time to answer the Canadian Jeweller survey; the responses have just started pouring in and I am very pleased that many share my curiosity about the state of our industry. Even though the survey results provide only a snapshot, I believe they give us a sense of the direction in which the market is headed. Please keep your responses coming. If you weren’t able to attend this year, check out our BaselWorld feature, where we’re showcasing some of the most eye-catching watches at the show. For our exclusive video interviews with CEOs of the top industry brands, visit canadianjeweller.com. I’m sorry to be rubbing this in early on; however, at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show, in the scope of the JCK Rocks the Beach event, Ever magazine will be co-hosting an exclusive party with JSN, the manufacturers of Canadian Ice Diamonds. This poolside party at the Mandalay Bay Beach is one of the show’s biggest nights, and will be featuring a spectacular performance by pop sensation OneRepublic. Since our guest list for this event will fi ll up really quickly, I will be inviting the people who post the best comments on the Canadian Jeweller Facebook page to be my guests.

Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

CJ A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 2 |

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

4/4/12 10:42:11 AM

BU_CJ_98R107_Layout 1 2/28/12 11:28 AM Page 1

DESIGNED TO BE BRILLIANT Every diamond is set by hand. Every setting is designed to allow for maximum illumination. The Bulova Diamond Collection – there’s no better way to light up a room.

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 120

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 112

HIGHBRIDGE COLLECTION

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www.bulova.com

4/4/12 11:54:49 AM

productprofiles

1 2

4 3

1. Nova Diamonds

our products. In platinum or in yellow, white or pink gold, with diamonds

Nova Diamonds is pleased to showcase our floral inspired ring and bangle.

or without, in any number of fabulous finishes; your client’s dreams come

The ring (catalog #LF8-1882) is set in 18K rose gold and consists of 4.57

true with MALO. For more information, write 148 on the Free Info Card on

carats of white diamonds, with a retail tag price of $15,315. The matching

page 120.

bangle (DBN8-269) is set in 18K white and rose gold with a black rhodium studded with brown and white diamonds. Total diamond weight is 14.19ct

4. Best Bargains

with a retail price of $37,925. For more information, write 146 on the Free Info

Spring is here and what better way to celebrate than with colour? Enjoy

Card on page 120.

these beautiful 14kt Gold handmade briolette earrings, set with over 40cts of genuine citrine, green and purple amethyst. Retail value: $1200. For more

2. Posh Moments for Mother’s Day

information, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Add personality to your Mother’s Day with Posh Mommy jewelry from Stuller. The customizable line features engraveable discs, loops, circles, mini dog

5. Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

tags, tall tags and hearts, and all pieces have the option to be customized

SHAW CONFERENCE CENTRE EDMONTON ALBERTA August 17-19 2012

further with a birthstone. To see our full collection of Posh Mommy jewelry,

The WCJE is proud to announce the launch of the Design Centre for the

visit us online at stuller.com. For more information, write 147 on the Free Info

2012 show. Leading artisans of the craft, those who specialise in creative

Card on page 120.

expression through their work - those who bind metal with emotion, will be on hand to showcase their products and talents. For more information on

3. Malo

our Design Centre, and how you can become a part of this fabulous industry

Today, we, the third generation of MALO jewelers, continue our family

event, contact Lilie Ford at lford_wcjexpo@bell.net, www.wcjexpo.com. For

tradition of embracing quality and beauty in every step of the creation of

more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 2:16:29 PM

details, write #111 Free Page, page ForFor details, write #112 on on Free InfoInfo Page, page 112120 CJ_ad.indd 6 CJAPR2012_8427_SAKO_Fantastic_Jewellery_Newer_Ad_FP.indd 19

27 Queen Street East. Suite 1402 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 Tel: (647) 345-5401 | Fax: (647) 345-5362 E-Mail: info@fantasticjewellerycanada.com www.fantasticjewellerycanada.com

3/1/12 1:28:46 4/4/12 4:38:04 PM

productprofiles

1 2

1. GIA Reports and Grading Systems

3. ELLE JEWELRY COLLECTION

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in

Bridal season has arrived along with ELLE Jewelry’s new “Micro Pave”

communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and

Collection. Indulge yourself in simple elegance with our new assortment of

the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides

pendants, earrings and rings. This collection features micro pave set cubic

an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of

zirconia in rhodium plated sterling silver. Make your statement and be sure

diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also

impress with ELLE Jewelry. For more information, write 153 on the Free Info

includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity

Card on page 120.

characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most

4. HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write

The June and September editions of the show serve as a comprehensive

151 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

platform to advocate the jewellery trade every ye ar. A strong track record of excellence has made both events a prominent fixture in the global jewellery

2. Imperial Color Diamonds

trade’s events calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! For pre-

Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery

registration, please visit www.JewelleryNetAsia.com. For more information,

from one of a kind pink diamond rings to amazing graduated yellow diamond

write 154 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

necklaces. We are proud to offer an extensive collection of fine loose natural fancy color diamonds (all certified G.I.A) Our high volume allows us to be competitive and provide the lowest prices possible. For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 2:17:01 PM

Bijouterie / Je wellery

Specializing in:

Reverse colours available on all rings.

Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.

For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 120

Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.

Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 • Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • info@legajeweller.com Quebec contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Proudly Canadian

Ontario Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065

Manitoba contact Rube Helman Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314

Alberta, Sask., British Columbia contact Vahan Mele Tel: (647) 284-5067 Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com

GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE

CJAPR2012_8915_Lega_FP.indd 19

4/4/12 11:52:39 AM

productprofiles

1. Lili Jewelry –Find Your Star

3. Creation Le Grenier

Never before has there been a diamond that appears whiter than its

New arrival. This sterling silver bracelet set with shell pearls is perfect for all

true color. Lily CutÆ Ring, D IF, 3.50ct with petals of yellow diamonds,

seasons. Can be worn as a set with a matching necklace and earrings. For

exclusively at Lili Jewelry. For more information, write 155 on the Free Info

more information, write 157 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Card on page 120. 4. Rembrandt Charms 2. Jewelers Mutual

Create a charm department. Rembrandt’s charm departments attract

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail

repeat charm collectors. Displays feature inventory control, removable

Jewellery Businesses

today! Jewellery thieves use trickery, sleight of

trays and a vast selection all in less than three square feet. Wall panels,

hand, stealth, the element of surprise, and the threat of force to steal from

freestanding towers and countertop displays are available in cherry,

jewellery businesses. Use the Security Guide for Retail Jewellery Businesses

walnut, and maple. Please visit RembrandtCharms.com/retailers or call

to help you reduce your risk of theft of all types. Exclusively endorsed

416.293.3495 or 800.387.5238. For more information, write 158 on the Free

by the Canadian Jewellers Association, American Gem Society and the

Info Card on page 120.

Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America, Jewelers Mutual is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance in the United States and Canada. To order, visit JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411. For more information, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 2:17:39 PM

April

3/12/12

3:00 PM

Page 1

Romance

For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 120

Diamond Bridal Collection

THE INDUSTRY’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE & PROFITABLE BRIDAL PROGRAM Lifetime Warranty • Exciting New Styles • Silver/CZ Sample Program • E-Commerce Website • Extensive Marketing Support

KIM ™

KIM INTERNATIONAL 800-275-5555 • sales@kimint.com

KIM Canadian Sales Professional: Marcel DuMontet 514-865-7235 or marceldumontet@videotron.ca

CJAPR2012_9139_Kim Jewellers_FP.indd 19

4/4/12 12:03:41 PM

productprofiles

2 1

1. Ready Mounts

3. TIG Group

At Ready Mounts we are focusing on offering a variety of products and

The Ritani Setting is Ritani’s most significant design achievement to date.

services to help save you time and money. We offer full CAD services,

These solitaire engagement rings boast exquisite craftsmanship and elegance

including milling and growing of waxes. Also currently stocking bracelet

from every angle. Recognized as the most sought after engagement ring on

mounts in classic styles, as well as ring mounts, semi-mounts and finished

the market today, the Ritani Setting showcases magnificent diamonds running

goods. For more information, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

up and down as well as in between the prongs. This design is also available in three stone engagement rings as well as diamond stud earrings. For more

2. Introducing KIM’s Eleganza Two-Tone Fashion Collection

information, write 161 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

Kim International’s Eleganza Collection features 18kt gold & Sterling Silver designs with genuine gemstones, combining modern elegance with Old-

4. COVER REFLECTIONS

World craftsmanship. The fast-turning collection includes custom displays,

Co140 Day Retrograde - Technical accents and highest precision in the way

program catalog and advertising support. For more information contact

the various functions flow together make this watch stand out. Quality you can

Marcel DuMontet at 514-865-7235 or marceldumontet@videotron.ca. For

feel right down to the last detail. Clear lines and optically perfect proportions

more information, write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

between the day indication and the large date display enhance the impression this design article makes. Scratchproof sapphire glass, stainless steel bracelet or leather strap, water-resistant up to 50 meters. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 120.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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Rembrandt Charms Serving the Retail Jeweler for over 40 Years.

Show Silver. Sell Gold. • Use sterling silver as samples for special order karat gold charms. • Traditional sterling silver charms have never been hotter! • Sterling charms offer great price points and bring repeat charm collectors.

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All charms available in Sterling Silver, Gold Plate, 10k Yellow, 14k Yellow & 14k White Gold. Stephen Cooper Sales Manager Ontario 416.293.3495 Trevor Johns British Columbia 604.535.4657

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4/4/12 1:10:03 PM

starwatch

Hollywood actresses dazzle by bonnie siegler

At the 18th Annual Screen Actors Guild (SAG) Awards, Kelly Osbourne chose Amrapali 18k white gold and rose cut diamond three-drop earrings ($7,640). Jenna Fischer attended wearing Vanessa Hudgens flew across the globe to Sydney, Australia

a LeVian 18k yellow

for the premiere of Journey 2: The Mysterious Island. She

gold and chocolate diamond

brightened up the evening wearing a Sutra cuff with sapphire

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and diamond flower motif (price upon request), Sutra cuff with rough diamond flower (price upon request) and LeVian 18k white gold and chocolate diamond-ball drop earrings ($8,295).

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www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 10:59:48 AM

andrewrobertsdesign.com

Proudly introducing Men’s Ring Identification card

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We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new Mens Line - a collection of over 100 unique styles. Each design is inspired by the virtues of strength, boldness, distinction, and success, while remaining understated and contemporary. Some of these new styles feature featu two tone white and 19k rose gold in a copper finish, creating a very distinct effect. Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost regard to quality. As well, our diamonds are selected from only the best in colour, cut and clarity. For more mo than three decades we have striven to create unique pieces of unparalleled craftsmanship. Now available for men.

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4/4/12 11:46:53 AM

who’snews

PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

JA Announces Leadership Changes Earlier this year, Jewelers of America announced several changes to its membership, marketing and communications departments. David Peters, former director of member services and education, has now taken responsibility as director of education and industry relations; Amanda Gizzi, former director of consumer communications, has been named director of communications; and, finally, Molly Fallon, former director of marketing and communications, has assumed the role of marketing and membership director. Jeff High

Stuller Welcomes New Executive Vice President Jewellery manufacturer and distributor, Stuller Inc. has welcomed Jeff High to its executive team. High, who is the founder and president of Gemvision—which specializes in jewellery technology—is to relocate from Iowa to Stuller’s headquarters in Lafayette, Louisiana. Assuming the position of Stuller’s executive vice president while maintaining his responsibilities with Gemvision, High will coordinate the activities between the two companies. High will closely work with Stuller to improve and increase the valuable benefits of digital technology in the jewellery industry.

Prestige Promenade Elects New President Earlier this year, Doug Sills stepped down as President of Prestige Promenade. Sills, who continues to serve on the organization’s board of directors, was replaced by Steven Mazza of jewellery company, The Mazza Co. Mazza, who runs this fifth generation family business, has been a member of Prestige Promenade for seven years and has served on the board for six years. Additionally, Mazza serves on the board for JANY, and earlier held a position at Luxury.

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AGTA Appoints New Officers Earlier this year, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) appointed the new officers of its board of directors. John Bachman of John M. Bachman will serve as treasurer; Cynthia Renee of Cynthia Renee will serve as secretary; Kambiz Sabouri of Gem 2000 will serve as vice president; and, finally, Ruben Bindra of B&B Fine Gems will serve as president, replacing Benjamin Hackman of Intercolor. The AGTA conducts elections on a rotating cycle to assure coherence in the longterm plans of the board.

Milovanovic Appointed Chair of the Kimberly Process

Cartier. Currently CEO of Richemonte subsidiary Van Cleef & Arpels, De Quercize will replace Bernard Fornas at the end of this year; Fornas is to remain a member of Richemonte’s management committee. De Quercize has extensive experience within the company working with Cartier, Alfred Dunhill and Monteblanc. He will be succeeded by Nicolas Bos, Creative Director of Van Cleef & Arpels and Chief Executive of Van Cleef & Arpels North America.

Forevermark Appoints Nomura The De Beers diamond brand, Forevermark, has named Kazuo Nomura the new managing director of Forevermark Japan. Most recently, the company’s retail director, Nomura has extensive experience in the business and valuable knowledge of the Japanese diamond and retail industry. Nomura has a thorough understanding of the company, having worked within the De Beers Group for the past 17 years. Forevermark’s current managing director, David Rudlin, will work closely with Nomura over the coming weeks before Nomura’s official appointment in April 2012. [CJ] a Kazuo Nomur

Earlier this year, Ambassador Gillian A. Milovanovic was appointed Chair of the Kimberly Process Certification Scheme (KPCS). The Kimberly Process certifies the origin of rough-cut diamonds from conflict-free sources. Milovanovic has held many roles during her extensive diplomatic career, including serving as U.S. Ambassador to the Republic and Mail and Ambassador to the Republic of Macedonia. Milovanovic is the first woman to lead this certification scheme.

Richemont Appoints De Quercize Swiss luxury company, Richemonte, has appointed Stanislas de Quercize as the new CEO of renowned watch and jewellery manufacturer,

www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 10:43:02 AM

For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 120 CJ_ERL.indd 1 CJMAR2012_8282_E.R.L._Diamonds_FP.indd 15

8/23/11 4/4/12 11:44:30 10:44:10 AM

fortherecord

news | trends | events EDC Partners with Foxy Originals

GIA’s Ruby Video

RJC Certifies Embee

Earth Day Canada (EDC) and fashion jewellery brand, Foxy Originals, have teamed up in support of EDC’s environmental education, recognition and awards program. Foxy Originals is a Torontobased company known for incorporating environmental values in its manufacturing process; the company commits to keeping 100 per cent of its jewellery design and assembly in Canada. This year, Foxy Originals is offering the “Teach Today, Change Tomorrow” necklace and bracelet set in support of EDC’s year-long program initiative. These pieces, available in gold and silver, are priced from $30 - $36, with 50 per cent of sales going to EDC.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has created a new video to educate the public and trade industry on lead glass-fi lled rubies. The video provides an overview of these types of stones, which the GIA now refers to as a “manufactured product.” The short feature is presented by GIA’s managing director for Southeast Asia, Kenneth Scarratt, and GIA’s director of West Coast identification services, Shane McClure. The clip explains that the GIA’s decision to use the term “manufactured product” is to reduce confusion in the marketplace. The video additionally explains how to identity and care for lead glass-fi lled rubies.

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) announced that Canada-based diamond manufacturer Embee Diamond Technologies Inc. has achieved certification. Embee has been recognized for meeting the highest ethical, social and environmental standards determined by RJC’s Member Certification system. The certification assessment was carried out by UL Responsible Sourcing, an independent thirdparty auditing firm recognized by RJC.

Umicore Arctic Fox Anti-Tarnish Silver Award Georgian College and Imperial Smelting and Refining Company of Canada (Umicore Group) have introduced the Umicore Arctic Fox AntiTarnish Silver Award. Imperial recently launched a collection of anti-tarnish silver products such as wire, sheet, casting grain and ring tube. According to Thomas Jansseune, Imperial’s managing director, Arctic Fox Anti-Tarnish Silver enables Canadian jewellers to explore the elegance of silver. This new award will be given to an individual recognized for his/her design for a piece of wearable jewellery using Arctic Fox Anti-Tarnish Silver. Coordinator of the Jewellery and Metals Program, Greg Merrall, believes this award is valuable to the student curriculum.

Ritani Well Received in Canada

Pink Diamond Unearthed An extraordinary 12.76 carat pink diamond has been discovered in the Argyle mine in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. This impressive diamond, named “The Argyle Pink Jubilee,” is considered the largest pink stone unearthed in the country. This light pink diamond has been compared to the “Williamson Pink,” a wedding gift received by Queen Elizabeth and worn at her Coronation. The Argyle Pink, which is to be polished and cut in Perth, is valued at approximately $10 million.

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In 2011, New York-based bridal jewellery designer Ritani launched into 14 Canadian retail stores for an eight-month period. In collaboration with the TIG Group of Canada, Ritani carefully and strategically chose high-end, independent retail operations for each location. According to Steve Turac, president of TIG, Ritani jewellery has been well received in Canada, and the company’s brand awareness has strongly increased over the last year. The partnership between Ritani and the

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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TIG Group has given Canadian retail partners a good working relationship with an international brand, at a local level. For 2012, Ritani and the TIG Group of Canada are looking to launch into an additional 10 retail locations.

Who Are You Wearing? Many fine pieces and sparkling items were spotted following this year’s star-studded evening at the 84th Annual Academy Awards. As one of the biggest nights of the year for fi lm, fashion and jewellery, celebrities were seen wearing new trends and renowned luxury brands including Bulgari, Chanel, Harry Winston, Anna Hu and more. Highlights included The Artist’s Uggie the dog sporting an 18-caratgold Academy Award bow-tie charm on a satin collar by Chopard. This item will be placed for auction to benefit The Amanda Foundation for homeless animals.

BaselWorld Reports Success Following an exciting week of dazzling exhibits and displays, BaselWorld 2012 ended another successful show. As the leading event for the watch and jewellery industry, this year’s BaselWorld drew in more than 100,000 visitors and buyers from around the globe, and marked a new record of media attendance with more than 3,000 journalists—a 9 per cent increase from 2011. Staff, exhibitors and jewellery brands reported their great satisfaction with the overall success of the event. Although still a year away, great anticipation began to emerge over the new, revamped hall infrastructure being built for next year’s show. The 2013 BaselWorld Watch and Jewellery Show will be held April 25-May 2.

Leo Schachter Tops Exporters List Earlier this year, Leo Schachter Diamonds Ltd., leading manufacturer of polished diamonds, was ranked as Israel’s top polished diamond exporter for 2011. A list of Israel’s top 25 diamonds exports is annually published by the Ministry of Industry, Trade and Labor; according to the list, Leo Schachter’s exports increased by 12 per cent (to $403 million). This ranking significantly marks the first time in more than 10 years that Lev Leviev Diamonds has not held the leading position. Also on the list, M.I.D. House of Diamonds Ltd. ranked second, and A.A. Rachminov Diamonds came in at number three.

designerDay 2012 On March 12, the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau (JRB) presented designerDay 2012, a full-day business conference for fine jewellery designers. Held at the Hilton Hotel in New York, this event hosted several industry experts offering informative, business advice and insider tips in their respective disciplines. designerDay is held concurrently with the MJSA Expo New York trade show (March 1113), a show dedicated to professional excellence in jewellery design.

Toll Free : 866.366.BOMA #207 - 1425 Marine Drive W. Vancouver, BC V7T 1B9 www.bom aje welry.com

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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2011, this same group robbed another jewellery store in the Mississauga Heartland Mall. In both cases, costly amounts of jewellery pieces and items were stolen. Investigators worked over a three-month period gaining valuable evidence on the case. The persistent efforts of the officers lead to the eventual arrest of several individuals and recovery of the stolen goods.

Lisa Corbo’s Stylish Designs There’s no slowing down for stylist, jewellery designer and owner of George C. boutique in Toronto, Lisa Corbo. A long-time expert in the jewellery and accessories industry, Corbo began designing jewellery for herself more than 25 years ago because she coveted pieces that served as fashion accents and that outlasted any fleeting trends. Today, Corbo’s designs are a reflection of her personal style and can be found at her boutique under collections such as “Coco,” “Vintage” and “Modern.” The designer’s latest project in the works is a line of jewellery inspired by her textile design background, and will focus on combining lace and fur, with the core intention of being timeless.

Five Recipients Awarded 2012 JCK Industry Fund

2012 CIBJO Congress

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CIBJO (Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie), or the World Jewellery Confederation, launched an official website for its 2012 congress in Vicenza. The congress marks the assembly of the World Jewellery Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates and meetings of CIBJO’s sectors and commissions. Th is event additionally reports on the cooperation between the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) and CIBJO with the United Nations. The website offers event information and program scheduling, encouraging participants to register online. The CIBJO congress, hosted by Fiera di Vicenza, organizer of the VICENZAORO trade shows, will be held May 17- 20.

Award Presented to Peel Regional Police Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) presented officers from the Peel Regional Police with JVC’s Law Enforcement Award of Merit. Inspector Colleen Fawcett and her team were recognized for their hard work and dedication to a project known as “Gold Rush.” In March 2010, a Mississauga jewellery store was robbed by several masked men armed with handguns. In January

Five associations were presented the 2012 JCK Industry Fund – a fund that awards recognized individuals or organizations for their valuable work in the industry. The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI); American Gem Society (AGS); Jewelers of America (JA); Jeweler’s Security Alliance (JSA); and Jeweler’s Vigilance Committee (JVC) were each awarded several million in grants for their work initiatives. Grant applications for this fund are evaluated on certain criteria: enhancing the image of the jewellery industry for commercial purposes, tackling arising challenges and problems faced by the industry, or assisting organizations in funding and developing training materials for the industry.

FINTARC Requests Assessment Last month, the Financial Transactions and Reports Analysis Centre of Canada (FINTRAC) issued an assessment request concerning reports on Anti-Money Laundering compliance regimes. Issued to “Dealers in Precious Metals and Stones” (DPMS), the report is to evaluate whether selected DPMS companies’ compliance regime, reporting, maintenance of client records, client identification polices and procedures meet the legislative requirements of the Proceeds of Crime (Money-Laundering) and Terrorist Financing Act (PCMLTFA). In 2007, the Canadian Jewellers Association and Jewellers Vigilance Canada initiated a discussion with the Department of Finance and FINTRAC to help reduce the compliance burden on the industry. CJA and JVC developed a downloadable Compliance Kit designed to help jewellers in the process of developing their own legally required compliance regime.

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

4/4/12 10:51:17 AM

The new Jewels by Anita Spring Collection is Here!

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 120

Visit us at booth #639, AGTA Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas May 31-June 4, 2012

Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable. For more information and a price list, contact Anita at anita@bbjw.com

www.bbjw.com

1-800-661-4871

21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Canada

T: 416-214-2582 F: 416-214-4626

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2011 BaselWorld Thief Identified Swiss police have identified the individual responsible for organizing a notorious robbery during last year’s BaselWorld watch and jewellery event. On March 30, 2011, two men broke into the display of an Israeli diamond dealer and stole four precious gems; three others distracted the staff. Currently, police are on the lookout for a 54-year-old Croatian man who has not been named. Although investigators have been able to identify the thief, none of the gems have been recovered. Authorities speculate a total of eight people took part in the robbery; however, not all have been identified.

Embee’s Brightest Diamond The U.S. Patent & Trademark Office (USPTO) assigned “the world’s brightest diamond” trademark to the Canadian diamond cutting MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 and finishing source, Embee Diamond

Technologies Inc. Embee Diamonds has specifically applied this trademark to the Sirius Star—a range of Canadian diamonds designed by master diamond cutter Mike Botha, and named after the brightest visible star. Sirius Star diamonds are mined in the Northwest Territories and cut and polished by Embee Diamonds’ skilled team of cutters in Prince Albert, Saskatchewan. These diamonds, each graded by the American Gem Society Laboratories in Las Vegas, are available only through leading independent jewellers and f lagship locations in North America.

Ulysse Nardin Opens Second U.S. Boutique Swiss mechanical watch manufacturer, Ulysse Nardin, has opened its second U.S. store in Aventura, Florida. Located at the Aventura Mall, Ulysse Nardin’s new 775-square-foot boutique offers a collection of the company’s

finest timepieces. Specially featured are three limited edition models from their Boutique Exclusive line that includes the Blue Toro, the Freak Diavolo Platinum, and the Blue Executive Dual Time. Ulysse Nardin’s Aventura-based location is an addition to its U.S. flagship location and headquarters in Boca Raton, Florida. Ulysse Nardin is the third company to open a luxury watch boutique in the Aventura Mall this year.

Buyers Welcomed to Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair Earlier this year, the Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the Diamond Club of Antwerp presented the third edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF). Buyers from around the globe had the opportunity to visit the booths of more than 70 Antwerp diamond firms displaying fine collections of diamonds, gemstones and jewellery pieces. Participants were additionally invited to a gala dinner sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre where Raphael Rubin, representative of the ADTF’s Organizing Committee, welcomed international buyers from India, Thailand, Ukraine, the Middle East and Turkey. Rubin also affirmed that buyers from China, South East Asia and North America are invited to participate in the 2013 fair.

JewelPop Inc. Welcomes Aidan Smith

MCD Pearl Imports A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 Email info@mcdpearls.com

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Jewellery and 3-D designer, Aidan Smith, has joined the Nova Scotia based jewellery manufacturer and designer, JewelPop Inc. Smith, who has become a member JewelPop’s design team, graduated from Kootenay School of the Arts in Jewelry and also earned a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree (in Jewelry Design and Metalsmithing) from Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University. Company President, Robert Smith (unrelated), has expressed his excitement for this addition to the design team and welcomes Smith’s new ideas and innovative perspective to the JewelPop business. Located in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, JewelPop Inc. is the creator of the popular line Kameleon Jewelry. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 10:51:36 AM

21 state jeweler associations Jewelry Information Center

Jewelers Security Alliance

Canadian Jewellers Association

Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America

Jewelers Vigilance Committee

Jewelers for Children

American Gem Society Jewelers of America

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewelry Association

For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 120

Society of North American Goldsmiths

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

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3/7/12 9:09 AM 4/4/12 12:01:30 PM

socialmedia

Creating customer experiences Aileen Bennett is an award-winning speaker and author who rents out her brain to businesses to help them with customer service, corporate culture and communication. She curates a popular blog about ideas at www.creatingclever.com

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Social media can help you understand and connect with your customers

www.canadianjeweller.com

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socialmedia

‘m looking forward to the day when Social Media Marketing is called by its proper name: Marketing. It’s all the same stuff you’ve been doing all these years, just in a new form. A lot of the principles and values you built your business on are still vital today whether you are online or offline. Things just got quicker and bigger, and that’s scary. Word of mouth used to mean actually talking to people you met during your day; now it can be a text message or post on a social media site by a mobile phone as someone is leaving or entering your store. Increasingly, people are updating their online status during transactions or customer service experiences.

their story with your customers and potential customers. You can use video, a short written story, photos, whatever works for your target market and your skill level. Text away:

Understand that some customers want to share their process with the outside world, so be patient through their text messaging, through their sending photos to their Mom or best friend. Accept that for some people this is the norm, and how they make decisions and experience life. Get to know your customer base and make them feel comfortable in your store. They will like you for it. Offer an experience:

People want to share their experiences, and your store is offering an experience. The jewellery business is built around important times in our lives, and these days people want to share those times with their closest friends, all 3,500 of them on Facebook. What if you made it easier for them, and helped yourself in the process?

The experience of choosing a ring, or memorable piece of jewellery used to be enough. These days your customers are looking for an experience within an experience. Social media users want something special to share, something that makes them feel special, and let’s face it, makes their friends comment.

Here are some suggestions:

Extra touches:

Easy photography:

Have an area that is perfect for photos. It may even have a backdrop with your logo on. Make sure it is well lit, and provides an uncluttered background for photos. You may want to set up a place for closer shots of hands with rings, or watches. Invite your customers to take advantage of these “extras.” Offer to put their photos on Facebook for them or to email them copies. Ask for their permission to put the photographs on your own Facebook page (or other social media site), and most will readily agree. Some will ask you to wait until a particular date (if they do this, send an email confirming the date that you can use them, and check in with them to see if anything has changed), and some will say no—and that’s perfectly OK.

Just a few little touches can give them that “Facebook moment.” A beautiful box, light that makes the ring sparkle and look great in photographs, a box of chocolates, cupcakes, or a little gift to congratulate the recipient. People are going to share their experience, so give them something that shows your business in a good light. Technology add-ons:

If your clients are social media savvy, then think about adding QR codes to displays so they can instantly link to information about what you sell. Make sure you have a wireless network so they can all share information freely and without delay. And enable them to interact with displays. Basically, you need to show that you have invested in technology that applies to them.

Share the romance:

If your customer has a wonderful or particularly romantic story, which a lot of them do, ask if you can feature them on your Facebook wall, or add them to your blog or website. Invite them to share

We all want to do business with people we like and trust, and nothing says “we like you” quite like understanding your customer base and adding to their experience. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com

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gemologyfeature

Countering counterfeits What’s the furor about fakes? They take money away from the true innovators and creators By Duncan Parker

hat happens when you buy a counterfeit copy of an item? There are loads of these fakes, facsimiles, avatars around, all over the world.

A friend stopped by the other day and said her son had come back from New York with a “fake watch” of a particular brand name, and it had stopped working. She wanted to know whether he should take it to the company that makes that brand of watch and try to get it fixed. I suggested this might not be a great idea. In my experience, the people behind the brands of jewellery, timepieces and accessories that tend to be copied and counterfeited are usually not happy about the fakes. Why? My Dad used to tell me that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. This was usually in the context of my brother copying

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things I did. I was never flattered, just irritated by the imitation, and I’m sure he was capable of doing as well or better than me. Years of effort

The reality is that imitation, or more precisely, counterfeiting is done because companies have spent many years or, indeed, decades, developing designing, promoting and marketing their name, their identity, and the particular items that are most copied. Items are copied because they are the most identifiable, best known and, therefore, most desirable items a company has produced. Consumers want a Rolex watch, a Cartier bracelet, or a Tiffany ring because their friends will recognize and admire it. The designs counterfeited are

www.canadianjeweller.com

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“I

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gemologyfeature usually identifiable as being of a certain designer or company, and, of course, that is what sells.

really poorly counterfeited watches that don’t even bear any resemblance to any genuine items bearing the brand name.

Who does it hurt?

Sometimes I’m convinced the counterfeiter wants to alert the knowledgeable purchaser that the item is fake. Watches have come in to the lab signed “Polex” or “original Bolex design.” Or how about Rado watches, the genuine one made with “High Tech Ceramic” and the counterfeit guaranteeing “High Tech Chinaware”? Or “Made in Switchinternet “ stamped on the back!

There is a general feeling that it’s fine to counterfeit because, “It doesn’t hurt anyone.” However, there is a down side: Without the effort and cost involved in distinct and innovative design and engineering, there won’t be new products and new designs introduced into the market. Also, there is a general view that there should be no right of ownership to ideas and design; however, if we can’t derive any benefit from our own ideas, why bother to come up with them or share them? If all intellectual property should be free, how do designers, inventors, writers and artists make a living? After all, without these creative people around, there wouldn’t be many beautiful or useful items in the world. Life would be pretty dreary. We are in the jewellery business because we love to have beautiful things around, and we like to see that others can share these things, too. A long, dishonourable history

There is a long and dishonourable history of counterfeiting. Going back to the 17th century, for example, probably more counterfeit Vermeer paintings were produced than genuine ones. I have always wondered why a painter who has the skills to produce a reliable fake Vermeer painting can’t paint his own paintings. The time required to establish fame by name and reputation is enormous (for painters, it usually requires that you die first). Sadly, in the art world, counterfeiting usually produces more revenue than creating your own work. At Neumann Parker Weinstein Laboratory, we saw an interesting pocket watch that was signed “Breguet” and had a very fine quality movement and an automaton dial that featured figures banging on bells and twisted glass “waterfalls” that operated when the time chimed. The watch had many features indicating that Breguet was the maker, and it was likely made in the late 18th century, when Breguet was still alive. The problem? The watch was a counterfeit. We took it to a Breguet specialist, who said the watch was original to 1790 or so, and was very well made; however, it was a counterfeit, and a second opinion confirmed this. Now, while we recognize Breguet as a very fine brand of watch still produced today, we can go on holiday and buy $10 counterfeit “Rolex” watches. The Rolex is currently the watch to own. Everyone recognizes it, and knows it as an important prestige watch. The counterfeit ranges from the “precious fake” made in the original materials, such as gold and diamonds, to even more nasty imitations that barely bear any resemblance to the original.

Counterfeiting is generally focused on famous brand names. This is because the companies have spent huge amounts of time and effort developing their product and their “brand.” They’ve earned their reputation through careful planning and serious effort to provide the quality people want, yet aren’t prepared to pay for. This generates a market for fakes and counterfeit items that are inferior. Copper becomes “silver”

Counterfeits are usually made of inferior materials, and generally claim to be the original. We have seen genuine Tiffany & Co Frank Gehry “Fish” earrings and counterfeit Tiffany & Co Frank Gehry “Fish” earrings on the same day at the lab. The genuine ones were sterling silver and signed with the Gehry name. The fakes were stamped “925,” meaning sterling silver, and were actually made of plated copper, and, amusingly, they were signed “Elsa Peretti” (another designer associated with Tiffany & Co). Every counterfeit sold likely takes us one step closer to not having those innovators of design to enrich our visual lives. It is costly to design, promote and market a specific product. What enables people to develop innovative design is having consumers buy them. We tend to think, “They’re rich, they can afford it.” However, all of these companies were started by people like you and me, and still employ individuals like you and me, who would prefer to be employed, and are proud of the products they produce. Counterfeit appraisals

As an appraiser, I have even found my products being counterfeited. Clients have shown up at the lab brandishing copies of appraisals that look like ours, have our names on them and have signatures that almost look like ours. The descriptions on the counterfeit appraisals have been incorrect, and the values stated have been utterly incorrect. Fortunately, this practice seems to have stopped, though we have had to encourage potential buyers of Internet auction items to contact us to verify appraisal numbers.

The price of fakes

Counterfeiting is not a good thing. You end up with inferior goods, and the money saved is usually not saved in the long run, due to likely problems with the fakes. Working on developing your own identity and brand will perhaps lead to the sincerest form of flattery, someone counterfeiting your work. Then you’ll know you’ve really made it.

We have seen really accurately counterfeited base metal watches copying watches that retail, in genuine originals, at $400; really accurately counterfeited gold watches that retail, in genuine originals, for $30,000; and

The Canadian Anti-Counterfeiting Network advocates and fights product counterfeiting and copyright piracy. It’s well worth supporting. [CJ]

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Polygon Report: polygoncjreport

Diamond Supply & Demand

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in February 2011. .

POLYGON/CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DIAMOND REPORT

Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.

SUPPLY & DEMAND Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a fourweek period in February 2012.

Most Popular: Overall

Most Popular: Colour Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

Shape

Carat

Clarity

Colour

Demand (%)

Supply (%)

Shortage/ Surplus

Avg. Price per Carat

SI1 1.00-1.25 $5,449.56 3.08% Round G 0.42% SI1 1.50-1.99 $7,386.64 G 2.25% Round 0.21% SI1 2.00-2.99 $8,801.89 H 2.09% Round 0.21% SI1 1.26-1.49 $5,701.14 H 0.94% Round 0.09% SI1 0.50-0.69 $2,380.37 G 0.92% Round 0.21% SI1 1.00-1.25 0.88% $3,090.31 Princess G 0.05% SI1 0.70-0.79 0.80% $3,131.28 Round G 0.20% SI1 0.90-0.99 $4,364.08 0.72% Round G 0.09% SI1 3.00-3.99 $10,611.34 0.63% Round H 0.05% SI1 0.80-0.89 $3,271.91 0.54% Round H 0.06% SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,337.25 0.48% Cushion G 0.08% SI1 1.50-1.99 $5,374.98 0.44% G Cushion 0.03% VS2 1.50-1.99 $5,490.20 0.39% G Princess 0.01% SI1 2.00-2.99 $7,083.40 0.37% G Cushion 0.03% March 15th 2012 SI1 2.00-2.99 $6,114.04 0.36% Princess G 0.02% SI1 0.70-0.79 $2,148.94 0.33% G Princess 0.02% SI1 1.26-1.49 $3,734.71 0.26% G Cushion 0.00% SI1decision-making <0.30 0.26% information G 0.03% The Diamond Price report is provided by Polygon for theRound benefit of the trade and provides key to jewelry professionals$1,190.68 SI1 0.80-0.89 0.25% Princess 0.01% in Polygon’s diamond$1,917.47 dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averagesHfor independently-graded round diamonds SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,347.81 0.22% Princess F 0.03%

D E F G H I J K+

8.27% 10.26% 15.23% 20.64% 19.58% 12.73% 6.07% 7.21%

11.06% 13.72% 15.33% 16.16% 14.09% 10.32% 6.41% 7.93%

$5,350.38 $4,714.90 $4,982.39 $4,945.30 $4,667.37 $4,340.84 $3,935.41 $2,375.62

database, as of March 15th 2012. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information.

PRICING The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of November 1st, 2011. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information

Polygon.net is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.

CJ a p r i l / m ay 2 0 1 2 |

www.canadianjeweller.com

Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewellery professionals. Since 1984, Polygon has helped members gain invaluable knowledge and find unique trading opportunities that have significantly impacted 1/3 CARAT (0.30 - 0.49) 1/2 CARAT (0.50 - 0.69) the year over year growth of theirVS1 business. Members benefit fromI1best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection ofI1estate IF VVSI VVS2 VS2 SI1 SI2 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 pieces, high end watches, jewellery, loose diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, coins and more. The high calibre of the membership and the active participation D 4001 3179 2828 2586 2181 1797 1573 1211 D 8048 5994 5038 4546 4127 3290 2532 1577 of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. E

3188

2843

2592

2374

2020

1718

1518

1158

4987 4610 4116 3556 3020 2454 1536 4695 4286 4011 3502 2836 2331 1494 1658 1452 1051 G 5087 4381 4073 3617 3130 2549 2080 1414 1563 1342 1021 H 4652 4149 3732 3172 2836 2365 2006 1369 14951-800-221-4435 1260 927 | info@polygon.net I 3866 3548 3123 2825 2564 2068 1871 1320 | www.polygon.net 1322 1204 850 J 2908 2890 2637 2447 2161 1866 1774 1260 Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more! 1181 1024 701 K 2469 2431 2309 1932 1885 1686 1543 1205 E

5968

F out 2976 2210of the 1996 1669 1463 F 5378 Find how you2658 can be 2391 part of one most exclusive groups1128 of jewellery professionals. G H I J K

2707 2519 2178 2167 1917

IF D E F G H I J K

10514 8418 7475 6596 5841 4813 3500 2620

2486 2463 2163 2128 1799

VVSI 7797 6696 6392 5662 5236 4325 3427 2529

VVSI

2380 2318 2078 1873 1667

2179 2051 1855 1793 1506

1955 1863 1703 1557 1399

3/4 CARAT (0.70 - 0.89) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 6720 6176 5725 5266 4597 4176 3323 2450

6260 5814 5460 4760 4318 3711 2918 2331

5532 5211 4831 4377 3967 3571 2773 2142

4519 4267 4126 3715 3488 2962 2557 1994

1 CARAT (1.00 - 1.49) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

D E F G H I J K

24471 17317 14655 11691 9856 7966 6618 5523

17394 15209 12317 10356 15136 12317 10444 8968 12413 10340 9782 8339 10535 9684 8186 7604 9272 8116 7371 6704 7554 6738 6256 5946 6224 5947 5486 5207 5383 5044 4734 4503

VVSI

2 CARAT (2.00 - 2.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

D E F G H I J K

46916 31688 28775 22513 17357 14336 11030 8952

35874 29581 25757 20467 15966 13189 10208 8048

32601 26806 22530 18109 15311 12779 9904 7500

26320 22312 19474 15851 13944 11170 8906 7027

19928 17212 16464 14078 11969 10118 8210 6576

7535 6866 6739 6393 6005 5370 4545 3916

SI2

3809 3576 3329 3231 2993 2554 2267 1760

2178 2164 2113 1984 1973 1891 1738 1410

SI2

6374 5993 5682 5464 5220 4755 4292 3561

3535 3448 3362 2882 2826 2676 2472 2221

SI2

14771 10899 13480 10173 12671 9745 11621 9350 10644 8723 9108 7742 7577 6787 6125 4367

IF D E F G H I J K

9/10 CARAT (0.90 - 0.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2

14416 11261 10036 12517 10583 8605 11077 9401 7851 9054 7934 6466 7569 6764 6001 6477 5497 5136 5497 4609 4413 4336 3776 3535

IF D E F G H I J K

30749 22147 18926 14802 12220 10068 8564 6760

D E F G H I J K

97899 72171 52255 39924 30019 23001 17178 13776

I1 4832 4687 4543 4304 3929 3909 3646 2610

VVSI

8122 7424 6867 6124 5566 4914 4163 3079

6749 6509 6299 5567 5218 4539 3739 2982

SI1

SI2

6033 5647 5484 4997 4635 4111 3420 2637

5164 4810 4633 4267 4097 3517 3060 2263

3446 3087 2729 2549 2448 2353 2170 1990

1 1/2 CARAT (1.50 - 1.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

23423 19825 16522 13610 11731 9834 8010 6222

VVSI 68751 57903 47705 36088 27787 22304 17030 13501

20252 16601 14443 12522 10636 9217 7531 5983

16800 14814 13134 11431 9669 8305 6947 5836

14166 10817 12739 9925 11454 9598 10346 9020 9063 8128 7627 6814 6350 5719 5331 4792

3 CARAT (3.00 - 3.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 55801 46541 38644 33149 25589 20435 16173 13017

45936 39148 33360 28692 23087 17763 14238 11716

36027 30444 27988 23005 18582 15200 12546 10542

SI1 22590 20052 18090 16870 14027 11760 10162 8939

SI2

8519 8016 7600 6904 6578 5832 5069 4241

4183 3783 3384 3336 3218 3154 2784 2471

SI2

16407 10225 14404 9738 13778 9467 12757 9197 11736 9143 10440 8517 9296 7892 8454 7881

Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones, pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email info@polygon.net for more information.

The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.

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4/4/12 11:40:56 AM

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coverstory

Family legacy Calgary Jewellery was founded in 1955 – its success lies in changing with the times By Gord Henning • Photography by David Bibbings

rchitecture and jewellery come together in many ways.

Some watches showcase their dramatic workings. Some jewellery has bold, angular designs. And then there is Bernard Florence of Calgary Jewellery: “In my previous life I was in the architectural field,” he says. Florence made his career change 33 years ago, joining the business his parents had started in Calgary. At that time, his father proposed that Bernard bring his architectural talent and creativity into the family business of jewellery. So Florence did. And he’s never looked back.

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18kt yellow gold necklace with 351 dia tdw 3.21, Hulchi Belluni, the Fagiolo collection 18kt yellow gold rings with 154 dia tdw 2.12 ct, Hulchi Belluni, the Fagiolo collection

Founded in 1955 by Florence’s parents – Les, who was born and raised in Calgary; and Dora, who was originally from Paris, France, built the business based on service, quality and value, creating a loyal clientele. Unfortunately, they are no longer with us; however, their traditions carry on. Today, Calgary Jewellery is flourishing as a boutique in the heart of the city. Calgary Jewellery is proud to serve third and fourth generations of clients with its broad selection of luxury watch brands such as Breguet, Omega, Ulysse Nardin, Jaeger-LeCoultre; and jewellery brands that include Hulchi Belluni, Yvel, Chimento – as well as a large selection of bridal brands. Travelling the world

Florence travels the world in search of jewellery brands that Calgary has not seen before: “I’m looking for it to be exclusive to our boutique and unique to the client when they come in,” he says. “Our forte is custom-designed jewellery and representing a vast selection of fine Swiss timepieces.”

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C2 mechanical self-winding chronograph; black PVDtreated stainless steel 43mm case; black vulcanized rubber strap on black PVD-treated stainless steel folding clasp

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coverstory

Rose gold necklace and ring, silver, sapphires and baroque pearls, MIMI, the Blanche collection

Carrying high-end jewellery and watch brands, Florence says, is about making a personal connection with what he refers to as his “partners” – some of which he has had a relationship with for more than 30 years. “We work together to deliver the best possible experience for our clientele,” says Florence. In 2004, Florence took a big step to move the company forward. “I felt we were ready to take Calgary Jewellery to the next level,” he says. “I felt we needed a warm, inviting and modern boutique which was more representative of what we had become. I designed and built it from the ground up.” During the construction, the business moved into the basement: “It was a speakeasy-type of environment,” says Florence with a chuckle. “To our amazement, we were very successful with the renovation and the sales during that time. It was a lot of fun.” In addition to having the new, modern interior design, the store footprint increased from 4,800 square feet to well over 5,500 square feet, allowing the store to showcase products in a more elegant and comfortable environment. Florence specializes in the design and creation of custom jewellery – whether it’s a diamond engagement or dinner ring, bracelet, pendant or brooch. “Designs by Bernard” represents a significant part of Calgary Jewellery’s business. “Seeing my customers’ delight when their custom-made piece is presented to them gives me great pleasure,” says Florence.

Service is key

When asked what the basis of Calgary Jewellery’s success and longevity is, Florence doesn’t hesitate: “Service is the key. Honesty is the prerequisite. Quality and selection are all intertwined to make the best possible customer experience. Making a personal connection with every client is an important aspect in this digital age. Having a one-on-one relationship with our customers is absolutely key.” Calgary Jewellery has a highly qualified sales team. “I’m very fortunate to have the team I have here,” Florence says. “The educated and certified gemologists and goldsmiths on staff are the true cornerstone of Calgary Jewellery’s ongoing success.” Florence also strongly believes in giving back to the community that has supported his business over the years. Calgary Jewellery is known for supporting a broad variety of charitable campaigns for many years now (see sidebar) in the areas of arts, sports and health. www.canadianjeweller.com

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What’s hot in Calgary

Florence has observed a number of things trending upward in sales at Calgary Jewellery. “Coloured stones are growing in popularity,” says Florence. “And we’re seeing that rose gold is being asked for more and more – be it pendants, rings or watches.” Pearls also continue to grow in popularity. “We are seeing pearls being incorporated into new, modern designs” whether the pearl is South Sea, Tahitian, cultured or freshwater. Another thing Florence has noticed is a growing boldness in the way his clients think about their jewellery: “It’s more about individual expression and wearing something that truly provides the sense of individuality and uniqueness,” he observes. Generations of diamonds Yellow and white diamond bracelet in 18k white gold with 3.45 ct of fancy yellow diamond and 5.6 cts of brilliant white diamonds TDW and Yellow diamond ring with a 2.01 ct fancy yellow diamond and 1.0 ct of white and yellow diamonds set in 18k white and yellow gold

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Calgary Jewellery has always been focused on retailing certified diamonds, according tp Florence. As a retailer certified by the American Gemological Society (AGS), Calgary Jewellery has become the go-to boutique for unique and custom designed engagement rings.

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coverstory

The virtuous circle of philanthropy Calgary Jewellery, having been an Alberta institution for 57 years, believes in supporting the city that gave it its name. “We are happy to give back to the community,” says owner Bernard Florence. “I have to say that we are very, very fortunate to be in the great city of Calgary, and to have so many great customers – while at the same time, supporting worthwhile causes as our way of giving back.” One of Calgary Jewellery’s ongoing sponsorship connections is with the Kids Cancer Care Foundation of Alberta. Christine McIver, the founder and CEO of KCCFA, says, “We can’t do what we do without people like Bernard.” For more than a decade, Calgary Jewellery has been a sponsor of the KCCFA annual fundraising golf tournament, but McIver notes that the company’s support goes far beyond a single event: “They’re there year after year, they’re friends and we know, well, I hate to say they’re a sure thing because I don’t want to jinx myself, but we know they’ll come through when we need them.” Calgary Jewellery also extends its support to the Bill Brooks Prostate Cancer Benefit, now in its 14th year. Bill Brooks himself says that, “We are truly fortunate to have Bernard and Calgary Jewellery in our community. I would consider Bernard to be one of our city’s most generous supporters.” Described by McIver as “big hearted,” Florence acknowledges that there are so many people in need, and so many great causes, that being able to contribute in a some way to make people’s lives just a

“We pay very special attention to diamonds and ring designs,” says Florence. “When a couple came to me for their engagement ring 30 years ago, and now they bring their grown child to Calgary Jewellery for their engagement ring, it’s one of those experiences that touches me deeply.”

little bit better is always worth doing. As Florence says, “It’s just our way of saying thank you.”

The market for diamonds has also changed, says Florence, because consumers are increasingly self-educated due to tools such as the Internet. “It’s a pleasure to work with individuals who care enough to take the time to make that once-in-a-lifetime investment for something that is so personal and important. And once again, the personal one-on-one interaction Calgary Jewellery provides with a vast selection of high quality diamonds, supported by world renowned certification, is what gives our clients the confidence to make one of the most important decisions in their journey to marriage. “Only the real thing can give you the real experience – and an institution like Calgary Jewellery can give each and every customer the rich experience we are all looking for in our modern, fast-paced world. When you’re buying an item of any price, you want to know that there is someone behind it. And Calgary Jewellery is proud to provide exactly that.” It’s something Calgary Jewellery has been doing for 57 years and counting. [CJ]

Beluga Quartz; stainless steel 30mm satin & high polished case; sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides; stainless steel curvaceous satin and polished bracelet with push button deploy

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productfocus

Sterling silver bracelet set with cubic zirconia, mother of pearl and a white shell pearl, rhodium plated, from Ethan Stars

Thanks to the high price of gold, silver has jumped into the limelight By E. Zeynep Güler-Tuck

hey don’t call it the “silver dollar” for nothing. Not only is the value of silver equating to a lot more dollars these days; this precious metal has also recently been enjoying its shining spot in the limelight. In 2011, the price of gold reached an all-time high, and the trends began to favour more reasonably priced metals such as silver. Even with dramatic fluctuations in price, by the end of the year, silver came out on top. This past February, Reuters reported that, “Silver [was] by far the best-performing precious metal…with a 32 per cent gain. Last year, it posted a 10 per cent loss after prices corrected sharply from a record near $50 an ounce set in April [2011].”

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However, 2011’s drastic price swings left investors reluctant to commit, going as far as to name silver, “the devil’s metal,” due to its volatility. The big question looming in the minds of retailers and wholesalers is whether silver will stand the test and endure the ebbs and flows of the precious metals market. If so, does this signal a shift in demand from gold—the crown jewel of the precious metals—to this cheaper, more mainstream white metal? “Silver has definitely become increasingly popular, especially due to gold prices,” says Grace Ng, VP of Sales for PAJ Canada & ELLE Jewelry and Time Canada. “Since 2008, when gold prices began to skyrocket, retailers

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productfocus

were looking at silver as the alternative to yellow and white gold. The designs were available at a fraction of the cost. For those who still prefer the gold colour, they have options of silver with gold plate.” Switching to silver

Retailers have started to take note of “an increase in gold clients switching to silver products, and have therefore increased silver products in their showcases,” says wholesaler Bamiyan Silver’s Secretary/Treasurer, Shakeb Fakeiry, who believes that this trend emerged after gold passed the US$1,200 per ounce price point. The variety of designs available in silver and the malleability of the metal have lead to more widespread supply. “Silver has long been the best metal to design jewellery with,” explains Richard Knocke, Gemmologist GIA at the Michigan Silversmiths Guild. “Gold tends to be used in such small quanities, just enough to go around the finger and hold the stone… Silver is the best conductor of heat, the best conductor of electricity, the most reflective and bright, and extraordinarily pliable.” Setting for stones

Sterling silver, an alloy of silver mixed with a large percentage of silver (93 per cent) and a smaller amount of other metals (usually with 7 per cent copper), is the most common form of the metal used for jewellery design. Argentium sterling silver is one of the variations to this metal that has emerged in recent years. The Society of American Silversmiths describes this specific blend of silver as having “dramatically better tarnish resistance than standard sterling and will not fire stain.” This solid alloy not only creates the basis for sturdy pieces—it also provides a strong setting for stones.

Silver leads the race in white metals since it is “whiter” than white gold and has a brighter lustre. “Silver jewellers also use silver’s ability to be blackened, adding a depth you don’t see in gold. It’s less expensive, which has allowed artists and designers to experiment and try things they wouldn’t do in gold. Therefore, the best and most avant-garde designs have always been in silver,” says Knocke. When it comes to the world’s silver supply, with the U.S. Geological survey predicting that it will be the first metal to go extinct, are this shiny metal’s days numbered? Yes and no. The link to lead

Knocke explains that with the lifespan of this metal in question, the cost of silver will continue to be unreliable because, “in most commodities, the higher the price, the more supply is available. This is not necessarily so with silver, [since] it is usually a fractional byproduct of other metal ores like lead. So a mine will not increase production unless lead prices go up. This creates…inelastic supply, and in part, explains the very volatile price fluctuations in silver.” On the other hand, even though the existential threat of this precious metal looms, today there is still hope for its sustainability. “Silver, like all the noble metals, is very easily recycled and reused,” adds Knocke. “Today’s high prices encourage many people to cash in unused old and broken jewellery. All of this is recycled.” There are metal suppliers in the market that use mostly recycled materials, and it is important that jewellers keep informed and aware of the materials used to produce the sparkling pieces that adorn their showcases.

Sterling silver bracelet with shell pearls, rhodium plated, from Ethan Stars

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productfocus Sterling silver 16 mm heart-shaped pendant with rhodium plating, in a micropave cubic zirconia setting, from Bamiyan Silver Ltd.

“Silver jewellers also use silver’s ability to be blackened,

adding a depth you don’t see in gold. It’s less expensive, which has allowed artists and designers to experiment and try things they wouldn’t do in gold.

”

Being a responsible jeweller not only positively impacts the environment; it also impacts sales, as more consumers have started to do their homework about environmental jewellery-making practices and recycled materials. Be it through the responsible sourcing and extraction of materials, poverty reduction, or fair wages, and the proper treatment of the communities involved, consumers have begun to demand more transparency in the jewellery sector. “The push for greater social and environmental responsibility has been focused primarily on industrial-scale mining, and on the activities of multinational companies operating in developing countries,” states the Association for Responsible Mining (ARM). Fair trade materials

An increase in widespread access to fair trade materials (via the Oro Verde movement), initiatives such as Ethical Metalsmithing (a certification program for material suppliers) and projects developed by the Responsible Jewellery Council are promising. These signal the jewellery industry’s gradual shift toward practices that reduce its social, environmental and economic impact. Even though there are still many multinational corporations that continue to disregard their responsibility to the countries from which they source and extract their materials, the efforts of a select few are strong indicators that change is coming. silver classics

With trends in materials, gold has given up its seat at the table to silver, and even luxurious diamonds have been incorporated into cutting-edge silver designs. Recently, there has been a burst in popularity of silver bracelets and rings set with precious stones. “Classic designs in sterling [silver] with cubic zirconia and diamonds [are a] trend commonly observed,” says Mary Milan, ELLE Canada Sales & Marketing Manager. A leading trend in bracelet design has revealed the Shamballa bracelet as the top seller of the past year. With everyone from Jay Z to Paris Hilton sporting these Indian-inspired beaded bracelets woven together by nylon and similar materials, the trend doesn’t seem to be losing any steam.

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Charmed by bracelets

There has also been increased buzz surrounding revamped, new and improved versions of charm bracelets - the once teenage fashion items turned luxury accessories. These bracelets are available in 14K gold, leather, textile and sterling silver. Their appeal comes from the way they can be personalized, with up to 600 unique charms ranging in price from US$25-$845 each. Silver trends have also been shaped by geography and demographics. According to Alain Abihsira of Ethan Stars, “The Canadian market in general tends to be more on the conservative side. However, in the United States, it really depends on demographics. The more you go south, the trends tend to be bolder, especially with the Latin communities.” Silver is one of the most versatile metals out there. It’s used in industries from electronics to fine jewellery, and it’s certainly enjoying the spotlight as gold prices continue to soar. However, it will ultimately be up to retailers to decide whether to see the “silver lining” of this fickle metal enough to stock their shelves this season. [CJ] SILVER JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE 24 Gold Group 416.214.2443 www.24gold.ca

Imperial Smelting 905.475.9566 www.imperialproducts.com

Rembrandt Charms 800.387.5238 www.rembrandtcharms.ca

Atlantic Engraving 514.845.8257 www.atlanticengraving.com

Kim International 800. 275.5555 www.kimint.com

Rodania 514.842.9136 www.nona-jewels.ca

Best Bargains 413.214.2582 www.bbjw.com

Lega Jewellery 514.845.0066 www.legajeweller.com

Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com

Boma 800.667.7106 www.bomajewelry.com

Lotus Jewellery 877.593.0922 www.kameleonjewellery.ca

The Bullion Mart Inc. 416.928.0707 www.thebullionmart.ca

Creation Le Grenier 888.388.4736 www.ethanstars.com

Malo Creations Inc. 416.682.6561 www.maloinc.ca

TIG Group 866.682.6823 www.tiggroup.ca

Gee ‘N Gee 604.684.1131 www.geengee.com

PAJ/Elle 905.752.2080 www.ellejewelry.com

www.canadianjeweller.com

4/4/12 2:38:02 PM

For details, write #127 on Free Info Page, page 120

The alternative PRECIOUS metal, STERLING SILVER. Same high quality, same diamond cutting, same rhodium finish

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1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc.

T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257

E: info@atlanticengraving.com 2012-03-19 3:30 PM 4/4/12 1:11:20 PM

baselhighlights

BEAUTY MEETS CRAFTSMANSHIP AT

BA S E L Believe the hypeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;this year's BaselWorld show was amazing 56

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baselhighlights

ust as fashion is exploding this spring with a riot of beautiful, vibrant colours, so too were the watches introduced and exhibited at Basel. Each watch is a piece of exquisite art that perfectly expresses the mood of society—it’s time to be optimistic about the future and enjoy life. It’s time to appreciate the details of the sublime craftsmanship that goes into these newgeneration watches. And it’s time to be amazed by such incredible timepieces.

Watches with many fine details, watches that are unique and stunningly beautiful, and watches that are big and gorgeous and say "look at me"—all will be high-profile this season. When your customers come into your store looking for the shock of the new, let them bask in the glow of 2012's most interesting and intriguing creations. To follow are just a few of the watches that impressed the Canadian Jeweller team at BaselWorld. Thanks to everyone who helped make it such a memorable visit. – Lynne Shuttleworth is icon means you can view our interviews with key company Th stakeholders at canadianjeweller.com

1. Bulova Accutron Calibrator Bulova introduced a "revolutionary advance in timekeeping accuracy"—the Bulova Accutron Calibrator, which features the world’s first and only External Fine Adjustment System. Setting a new standard in individualized timekeeping, this development lets watch enthusiasts control the accuracy of their mechanical watches, maintaining 99.99 per cent accuracy simply—and without need for a technician. All Bulova Accutron watches are crafted of stainless steel, with sapphire crystals and water resistance to a minimum of 30 metres. The Accutron Calibrator will be available globally in three initial styles, in September 2012. 2. RAYMOND WEIL Maestro Petite Seconde or Rose The new Raymond Weil maestro Petite Seconde or Rose (maestro Small Seconds Pink Gold) presents a striking contrast between a deep black dial and pink gold indexes and hands. Its seconds-hand is placed delicately in a small counter zone at 6:00. Its refined simplicity contrasts with the Clou de Paris decor of the black

galvanic dial. The ensemble is housed in a 39.5mm pink gold PVD case,, and you can see the “mechanical heart” through its sapphire crystal case back. The elegant timepiece is mounted on a brown, calfskin, alligator-style strap, embellished with saddle-stitching and an ardillon buckle. 3. Bering Slim Ceramic BERING was the first brand to specialize in the production of super-slim, hightech ceramic watches, and its motto is “Innovation in slim design.” The slim ceramics exemplify Danish minimalism and show that reduction to the very basics can still create expressive design. Designer Max René is a multi-awardwinning designer, well known internationally for his pure and simplistic design. The slim ceramic watches, with their ultra-flat titanium housing, scratch-proof sapphire glass and sleek rubber strap are always supplied with a replacement strap that can be quickly changed with the simple sliding technology—a definite benefit to the end consumer.

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1. Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold Hublot unveiled the first watch in partnership with Ferrari. The Big Bang was launched in 2005, and the new version is greatly influenced by the association with Ferrari. To start with, there’s a larger case (45.5 mm in diameter); more power and more mechanical features; a cylindrical bezel that offers added depth to showcase the movement that can be seen through the sapphire dial; an indexed crown (with the H logo, automatically positioned to remain in line); elongated push buttons, fixed along a rotating axis like the pedals in a car; carbon inserts on the case profile; two interchangeable straps with a highly innovative quick change system, the principle for which was inspired by a seat belt; and tone-on-tone stitching like that used on Ferrari upholstery. As for the dial, the hand and the style of the indexes are inspired by the counters in a Ferrari. Plus, the UNICO manufacture movement is rather similar to the 12-cylinder engine used by Ferrari. It has no fewer than 330 components, oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, its column wheel and dual horizontal coupling on the dial side. This timepiece has a 72-hour power reserve, and is water

resistant to 100 metres. Last but not least, Big Bang uses the famed Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant 18-carat gold. 2. TW Steel TW Steel’s latest Canteen executions perfectly showcase the brand’s successful ability to take existing timepieces and evolve their look to continue to be “Big in Oversized Watches.” Building on the continued popularity of the TW10 Canteen model, the three new models, TW35, TW36 and TW37—available in 45mm only—inject a little more flare into the original design while keeping its elegant appeal. The stand-out feature on the Canteen watches is the use of 56 Swarovski stones set on each bezel. White stones adorn the TW35, while TW36 and TW37 use pink and black Swarovski stones, respectively. Each model uses a Miyota 2415 3-hand movement with a two-colour combination on the hands, with the part nearest to the centre matching the colour of the dial. An added style element, and another example of TW Steel’s focus on attention to detail, is the TW Steel monogram on the hook. This has been punched out for a hollow effect. Similarly, while all dials feature a new layout, the numbering

and indexing on all new models are rounder and raised, in contrast to the TW10 design, for a much bolder effect. 3. COVER Co151 Corpo Lady Chronograph For its 30th anniversary year, Cover presented a new collection of watches that included the Corpo Lady Chronograph. Feminine design, softly flowing forms and sensitive colour compositions are the essence of this stylish watch, which is also waterproof to 50 metres. The casing is decorated with Swarovski crystals, and the mother-of-pearl dial is protected by scratchresistant sapphire glass. The various straps are made of leather or stainless steel, with a folding clasp. The six different designs are versatile and distinct. Cover’s headquarters are located in the historic town of Solturn, Switerland, and all its models are made by hand.

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baselhighlights

1. The OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT With the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, OMEGA introduced a new member of its exclusive Co-Axial family of movements. The Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615 is the first of OMEGA’s proprietary movements to be equipped with a GMT complication, meaning that along with the central hour, minute and seconds hands, there is a GMT hand that completes one rotation every 24 hours, making it possible to keep track of the time in two timezones. The 43 mm case is available in a choice of metals: 18 Ct red gold or stainless steel or, in a bicolour version in 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel. The sapphire crystal on the screw-in caseback allows a clear view of the Co-Axial movement inside. The watch is available with either a bracelet in the same metal as the watch case or with a black, brown or blue leather strap. The dial is distinguished by the teak pattern associated with the Aqua Terra collection. The vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The applied 18 Ct gold brushed and polished indexes are coated with white Super-LumiNova, and the facetted hands are crafted from 18 Ct white or red gold. The Super-LumiNova allows ease of reading in all light conditions. The GMT hand can also be used for compass orientation; when the watch is held

parallel to the ground with its hour hand pointed in the direction of the sun, the GMT hand, when adjusted to the same time on the 24-hour GMT display, will indicate north in the northern hemisphere. 2. Breitling Bentley Supersports Breitling introduced a 3 x 1,000-piece limited series of the Bentley Supersports chronograph, with a “dashboard-style” dial enlivened by blue, orange or white-ringed counters and inner bezels. “Built for outstanding feats and performances,” this watch is a tribute to the Bentley Continental Supersports, the fastest and most powerful car ever made by the British manufacturer, and holder of the world ice speed record. Inside its sporty, sturdy and elegant chassis, the Bentley Supersports limited series houses a self-winding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. It is equipped with an original and practical central-hand 60-minute counter. The rotating bezel activates the variable tachometer – an exclusive Breitling feature enabling measurement of average speed, whatever the time elapsed, the distance covered or the speed reached. And it’s adorned with the knurled motif typical of Bentley dashboard controls. 3. TechnoMarine Locker The TechnoMarine Locker’s aim is to “reveal your true self with a provocative touch of colour, in a range that fits each personality and gender.” The name Locker comes straight from the famous beaches in St-Tropez, TechnoMarine’s birthplace. Its distinctive woven strap hints at the colourful bracelet/key straps worn by all beach visitors to safely hang their locker or private changing room key before jumping into the ocean. The woven canvas strap coordinates with an after-work drink, or the silicone strap can

be worn for an active afternoon of water sports. Locker is “a state of mind - a watch that daringly challenges the norm.”

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baselhighlights

1. Breitling TransOcean Chronograph Unitime With the tagline “bringing the world to the wrist,” Breitling launched

a “world time” chronograph equipped with a new calibre. Thanks to its double disk, the TransOcean Chronograph Unitime simultaneously and constantly indicates the time in all 24 time zones. An innovative system based on a patented mechanism enables the user, when changing time zones, to adjust all the indications in one smooth and easy movement by simply turning the crown. While the chronograph and instruments for professionals have established themselves since 1884 as Breitling’s domain, travel watches have also played an important role in the history of the brand. The winged B. Breitling followed along with the boom in air transport and long-distance travel. During the 1950s and ‘60s, the brand introduced a sophisticated model named Unitime, a self-winding “world time” watch that has since become a much sought-after collector’s item. The TransOcean Chronograph Unitime comes in steel or red gold versions, with the city bezel available in several languages. 2. Fendi Selleria

For the third year in a row, Fendi gives luxury and versatility to women, with its Swiss Made Selleria watches. These timepieces feature easy-tochange straps available in a painter’s palette of colours, as well as a host of dial choices in steel or two-tone cases. Fendi sells the watch heads separately from the straps and bracelets so women can select exactly the components they want. This year, to bring even more choice, Fendi unveils a striking 40mm Selleria Chronograph version. Offered in a polished stainless steel case with a Swiss Made quartz chronograph movement, the newest renditions feature brown, white or black dials. The wearer needs only to press a small button below the crown, using a tool provided with the watch (or with a pin or pen) to release the bezel of the watch. The selected strap of choice is then slipped onto the top and bottom case attachments, creating an all-new look. 3. Frédérique Constant: La Carrera Panamericana (Limited Edition) To celebrate the 24th edition of La Carrera Panamericana race, Frédérique Constant introduced two new limited edition timepieces, “inspired by the magical universe of classic and vintage cars.” Featuring a 43mm diameter,

polished stainless steel case, the watches are equipped with the new FC435 hand-wound calibre with small second. Because they’re water resistant up to 10 ATM, you can see the decorated movement through the case back, thanks to its sapphire glass. Both models feature two silver dial finishings, either with stainless steel hand-applied indexes, or with rose-gold-plated, hand-applied indexes. These two new limited editions display the original logo of the race on the dial and on the decorated movement.

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COVER THE PULSE OF TIME

For details, write #128 on Free Info Page, page 120

Independent Swiss Family Business Swiss Made Passion & Handicraft Sophisticated & Trendy Design Worldwide Presence

COVER EXPRESSIONS Co 152 Quartino Chronograph Co 151 Corpo Lady Chronograph

Swiss Made. www.discovercover.com Distributor: Valangin Inc. 1435 St-Alexandre, #400 Montreal, Quebec H3A 2G4, Canada

Tel. +1 514 845 2250 Tel. +1 800 361 1623 admin@valangin.com www.coverwatches.com

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Visit us at JCK Las Vegas, June 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4, 2012 HALL OF TIME, Stand B2727

4/4/12 1:25:12 PM

baselhighlights

1. CHANEL J12 This year at BaselWorld, Chanel showcased the J12 – a luxurious tribute to the values handed down by Gabrielle Chanel. Available in a stunning assortment of colours and styles, the J12 is a reflection of Chanel’s class, audacity, innovation, purity and elegance. The J12 GMT White Ceramic, one of the collection’s highlights, features a self-winding mechanical movement and rhodium-plated numerals and hands. The J12 White Diamond-Set Slim Bezel is embellished with 54 dazzling diamonds weighing 1.4ct, while the J12 Chromatic Powder-Pink Dial model features titanium ceramic with rigidity comparable to that of a sapphire. The showstopper is the J12 Chromatic Baguette-Cut Cognac Sapphire watch, accentuated by an 18ct white gold bezel, 36 baguette-cut sapphires and a silver-plated dial set with 12 diamond indicators. This year also marks the 25th anniversary of the Premiere, Chanel’s first watch, whose shape was inspired by the shape of the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle. 2. LONGINES SAINT-IMIER COLLECTION The Longines Saint-Imier Collection has been inspired by the origins of

Longines’ watchmaking tradition. The sleek lines and the distinctive lugs provide these new models with a subtle balance between classical and contemporary design. With a diameter of 39 mm, this chronograph is fitted with a column-wheel movement L688, developed and produced exclusively for Longines. Its case in rose gold displays a silvered dial. 3. FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT MOON TIMER The Frédérique Constant Moon Timer is powered by the delicately decorated automatic cal. FC-330 movement, ticking at 28’800 beats per hour, and exposed through a see-through case back. The design of this classical model is ultra-clean and functional. The watch comes with either a handsewn leather strap, or a sporty-elegant stainless steel bracelet. Aligned with the different available dial variations, straps come in dark brown and deep black. The dial is black with a minute track on the centre, and date on the outer ring; hand applied white Arabic numbers; white luminous hands; and Moonphase disk at 6 o’clock. The movement is Automatic FC-330, with 42-hour power reserve variations.

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“I

SHE DESERVES

“

DESIGNED IT WITH THE ATTENTION TO DETAILS YOU KNOW

GIOVANNI VACCARO

Visit us @ JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTH #S10115

Toll Free Tel: 1 866 812-7436

Distributed by:

For details, write #129 on Free Info Page, page 120

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Passion and precision designerprofile | GiovanniVaccaro

Ring featuring genuine raspberry topaz, set in 10kt gold, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

Giovanni Vaccaro thrives on the principle of pride in a job well done, which his parents instilled in him when he was young By Irina Lytchak

f there’s one thing jewellery manufacturers should possess when it comes to their work, it’s passion. And that’s exactly the way Giovanni Vaccaro approaches Beverly Hills Jewellers, his jewellery manufacturing business today.

Vaccaro launched Beverly Hills Jewellers, a manufacturing firm specializing in bridal jewellery, more than 11 years ago with his brother Cosmo Vaccaro, after the pair tried their hand at the retail industry, to very little success.

“I’m more passionate than ever,” says Vaccaro. “It’s always been a passion of mine to work in Canada and to allow other Canadians to work.”

“We understood what a retailer goes through,” says Vaccaro. “In retail, we couldn’t afford to hire extra help. Today we have over 60 people working with us. But that experience has made us a stronger manufacturer—we understand what the retailer’s needs are. When you love something, it just shows, and that’s not to say retail was bad, it just wasn’t our strength.”

Vaccaro’s parents, both of Italian descent, immigrated to Canada from France hoping to provide their family with a more enriched life. Since his parents were both jewellery polishers, Vaccaro was immersed in that world right from the start, and he was able to experience and appreciate the kind of fervour his family held for their work as he was growing up. The best you can be

“My parents were always very proud of the way they did things,” recalls Vaccaro. “They always said, ‘We’re not saying to be the very best, but be the best that you can.’”

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Unfortunately, Vaccaro lost his brother and business partner in 2006 to a form of meningitis. Although Cosmo’s passing was unexpected and very devastating and for the family, it was the aspirations that the two brothers shared that allowed Giovanni to continue on with the business. “We had a vision, we had a dream,” says Vaccaro. “And it was my brother who showed me our work was intended for manufacturing and not retail.”

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GiovanniVaccaro | designerprofile

19kt gold ring set with 0.50ct Canadian centre diamond, by Bevely Hills Jewellers

10kt gold ring set with a genuine Canadian centre diamond weighing 0.17ct, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

All the details

Today, Vaccaro runs his company on the basis of overseeing every detail of the jewellery creating process, as well as how the business is run, from employee relations to workplace cleanliness.

14kt gold ring set with diamonds weighing 0.33ct, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

“There’s not one spot in this company that I do not work in,” he says. “I started from being a bench worker, then a diamond setter, to polisher, to doing casting. For me, in order to do something really well, I just feel like I need to know every area of the process.” Apart from running the mechanics of his company, Vaccaro also has input into the designs of Beverly Hills Jewellery, a line of jewellery that’s proudly Canadian, and is also a reflection of Vaccaro’s European heritage.

14kt pink gold ring set with a 0.40ct Canadian centre diamond, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

Architecture inspires

“I’m inspired by my surroundings. When I travel, it’s architecture,” Vaccaro says. “But I won’t manufacture something unless it’s done right, from the beginning to the end. At the end, the retailer buys the ring, and the consumer wears it, and I still feel like it’s a part of me. For me, it’s about workmanship.” As a manufacturer, Vaccaro takes a great deal of pride in his work, and believes that it’s not just about an end product and a quick profit. “My product is a reflection of me. I absolutely feel that,” he says. “I’ve always said, ‘Insult me all you want—it doesn’t bother me. Say something about my jewellery in a negative way, and I’ll take it personally.’”

14kt gold ring set with a 0.55ct Canadian centre diamond, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

Gratitude for opportunities

Today, it’s very admirable to see that Vaccaro expresses a tremendous amount of gratitude for the opportunities he’s been able to enjoy since his parents moved to Canada. “If it wasn’t for Canada, we wouldn’t be where we are,” he says. “And if I couldn’t do the type of work I do on this soil, I wouldn’t choose to do it anywhere else.” [CJ]

10kt gold ring set with diamonds weighing 0.21ct, by Beverly Hills Jewellers

www.canadianjeweller.com

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SE OU CTVEL IO LE N

cjenfrançais

Le grand plan pour le Nord du Québec PAR CHARLES KAZAZ ET JEAN MASSON Le Plan Nord est un projet ambitieux de développement, initié par le gouvernement du Québec, pour assurer une prospérité à long terme pour la province et ces citoyens. Le Plan prévoit le développement des ressources naturelles telles que les diamants, l’or, l’argent et tous les minéraux qui se retrouvent dans le basin au nord du 48e parallèle de la province. En plus du développement, le Plan prévoit la protection et la sauvegarde d’une partie du territoire tout en permettant l’extraction des ressources précieuses. Le Plan est associé à des partenaires autochtones, environnementalistes et corporatifs. Le Québec devient ainsi un chef de file mondial avec le développement de ses ressources. ~ Deborah Smith-Sauvé, Manager, the Canadian Mining and Metallurgical Foundation (CMMF)

n mai 2011, le Premier ministre Jean Charest a annoncé le lancement du Plan Nord qui vise le développement du territoire du Québec situé au nord du 49e parallèle sur un horizon de 25 ans. Il s’agit d’un projet visionnaire et ambitieux qui repousse les frontières naturelles du Québec et ouvre l’accès à un territoire riche en ressources naturelles à découvrir et à exploiter. Le territoire couvert par le Plan Nord est immense et son développement comporte de nombreux défis. Dans ce contexte, la capacité du gouvernement de créer un climat social, règlementaire et financier propice aux investissements sera un élément déterminant dans la réalisation du Plan. L’industrie minière devrait être la force motrice de la réalisation du Plan.

LE TERRITOIRE

Le Plan Nord se déploie sur un territoire immense, soit 72 pour cent du territoire du Québec, près de 1,2 millions km2. Ce territoire se divise en trois régions (i) la Baie-James (Eeyou Istchee) où sont concentrées les

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communautés cries; (ii) le Nunavik, territoire des Inuits et (iii) la CôteNord et la fosse du Labrador, où sont concentrées la nation naskapie et les communautés innues. Une importante portion du territoire est assujettie à des traités et des ententes modernes conclus entre le Québec et les communautés autochtones. Les compagnies minières désireuses de développer des projets dans le Nord du Québec devront établir des relations avec les communautés autochtones. LES INFRASTRUCTURES

Le développement d’un aussi vaste territoire pose des défis considérables en matière d’infrastructures de transport d’énergie et de télécommunications. Les coûts reliés à la construction de ces infrastructures seront considérables en raison de l’immensité du territoire et des conditions environnementales. Le Plan Nord propose de confier à la Société du Plan Nord le mandat de coordonner les investissements publics et d’encourager les partenaires privés à participer au financement des infrastructures à caractère public construites en premier lieu pour leur bénéfice. Une formule de partage de

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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cjenfrançais coûts entre les partenaires privés, les utilisateurs et le gouvernement, sera établie pour les projets majeurs. Le Premier plan quinquennal du Plan Nord prévoit d’ailleurs des investissements de 1193 M $ en infrastructures. Le gouvernement du Québec s’est engagé à développer 3500 MW d’énergie additionnelle au coût estimé de 25 milliards de dollars pour répondre aux besoins des communautés nordiques et des projets industriels. Il n’y a actuellement pas d’indications sur les modalités de financement de ces projets. Le cadre financier

La réalisation du Plan Nord sur une période de 25 ans suppose un appui gouvernemental soutenu dédié aux infrastructures du Plan Nord et nécessite la mise en place d’une structure de financement à caractère permanent et prévisible tant pour le gouvernement que pour les autres parties prenantes. Afin d’atteindre cet objectif, deux mesures méritent d’être notées.

Le projet Renard de Stornoway pourra progressé plus rapidement que prévu grâce au prolongement de la Route 167. Des employés échantillonnent l’eau.

En premier lieu, le gouvernement mettra en place le Fonds du Plan Nord qui sera dédié à la réalisation du Plan. Il sera alimenté par une partie des retombées fiscales provenant des activités économiques réalisées sur ce territoire. Dans son budget 2011, le gouvernement envisage de transférer au Fonds plus de 2,1 milliards de dollars de revenus fiscaux au cours des prochains 25 ans. Ensuite, le Québec a annoncé la mise à la disposition d’Investissement Québec d’une somme de 500 M $ qui pourra être utilisée pour des prises de participation dans des projets porteurs et structurants situés dans le territoire du Plan Nord.

Charles Kazaz et Jean Masson sont des associés de Fasken Martineau DuMoulin et membres de l’Équipe Plan Nord. Photo credit: Courtoisie de Stornoway Diamond Corporation

La Société du Plan Nord

La réalisation d’un projet aussi complexe et ambitieux sur un territoire aussi immense suppose un haut degré de coordination. Pour faciliter la réalisation du Plan, Québec constituera une nouvelle agence, la Société du Plan Nord. Sa mission sera de contribuer au développement intégré et cohérent du territoire en fonction des plans quinquennaux élaborés par le gouvernement. Elle devra élaborer un plan stratégique soumis à l’approbation du gouvernement. Après approbation, la Société pourra utiliser les fonds qui lui sont consentis à la réalisation financière ou autre des projets contenus dans son plan stratégique Développement minier

Le développement minier sera au cœur du développement économique du territoire. Le territoire du Plan Nord a été témoin de travaux miniers sans précédents en 2009, 50 pour cent des investissements relatifs à l’exploration et à l’exploitation minière, (958 M $), ont été réalisés sur ce territoire.

Les projets miniers nécessiteront l’obtention de permis octroyés au terme de processus d’analyses environnementales et sociales rigoureuses réalisées par les organismes qui comprennent des représentants des Premières nations et des Inuits. Un des défis du gouvernement sera de s’assurer que ces agences bénéficieront des ressources qui leur permettront de réaliser les études environnementales à l’intérieur de paramètres raisonnables. Également, un des objectifs du Plan est de soustraire au développement industriel 50 pour cent du territoire et de créer un réseau d’aires protégées couvrant au minimum 12 % du territoire d’ici 2015.

La protection de l’environnement

En conclusion, le Plan Nord est un projet de société qui définira le Québec pour des générations à venir. Il propose des défis importants à l’ensemble des parties prenantes dont le secteur minier, la force motrice de ce Plan. Nul doute que l’industrie minière, réputée pour son innovation, saura saisir toutes les opportunités qu’offre ce Plan. [CJ]

Le développement durable et la protection de l’environnement sont au cœur du Plan Nord : les réalités nordiques y sont particulièrement sensibles et les écosystèmes du Nord sont complexes en raison du vaste territoire et de la dynamique des changements climatiques qui caractérisent le territoire.

Source: CIM Magazine, novenbre 2011, vol.6, no.7, pp.70-71. Reproduit avec l’autorisation de l’Institut Canadian des mines, de la métallurgie et du pétrole (ICM). www.cim.org www.canadianjeweller.com

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SE OU CTVEL IO LE N

cjenfrançais

LE CENTRE DE FORMATION PROFESSIONNELLE MAURICE-BARBEAU

Tour de coup en argent fin et or jaune 10k Pierre, bois, plume / Christelle Lévesque

Classe / Atelier

UNE FORMATION EN LIEN AVEC L’INDUSTRIE

• Par Dominique Audette

individualisé, établi depuis 2010, permet à chacun de progresser à son rythme et de débuter sa formation en août, octobre, janvier, mars ou mai, ainsi que de choisir les classes du jour ou du soir.

Cette formation vise à former des bijoutiers au banc compétents et capables de répondre aux besoins du marché.

Le CFP Maurice-Barbeau est doté d’équipements complets et modernes qui répondent aux standards de l’industrie. Pour se maintenir à la fine pointe, le centre intégrera, à partir d’août 2012, le dessin assisté par ordinateur afin de permettre aux élèves de se tourner vers le prototypage de maquettes de bijoux. L’équipe régulière d’enseignants est en phase avec les besoins de l’industrie, grâce aux nombreuses visites et contacts avec les employeurs.

epuis 1983, une formation en Bijouterie-joaillerie menant à l’obtention d’un diplôme d’études professionnelles est disponible dans la région de Québec. On la retrouve, depuis 2001, au Centre de formation professionnelle Maurice-Barbeau de la Commission scolaire des Découvreurs, dans le secteur de Sainte-Foy.

Le programme, d’une durée de 1800 heures, permet aux élèves de mettre en pratique toutes les étapes de fabrication, de reproduction et de réparation de bijoux. Les apprentissages portent sur les techniques de travail de l’argent et de l’or, de la fabrication d’apprêts, des différents types de sertissages, de la sculpture sur cire et de moulage, ainsi que des cours de dessin, d’histoire, de gemmologie, de techniques de vente et d’évaluation. Les élèves réalisent ensuite un bijou complexe qui intègre la majeure partie des notions acquises pendant leur cours. Un stage en entreprise de même qu’une exposition, où des bourses sont décernées, terminent leurs apprentissages et facilite l’intégration des finissants sur le marché du travail. De plus, une boutique aménagée au centre, permet aux élèves de rencontrer des clients et de vendre leurs bijoux. Tout au long de leur parcours, les élèves sont encadrés par un enseignanttuteur pour les aider à développer les attitudes professionnelles propres au métier et exigées par les employeurs. Les finissants peuvent ainsi commencer leur carrière avec une base solide et complète. En outre, l’enseignement

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Le 30 avril et le 1er mai 2011, le CFP Maurice-Barbeau était l’hôte du Colloque québécois en bijouterie et joaillerie. Plus de 140 participants, du domaine des métiers d’art, de l’industrie et des écoles du Québec se sont réunis autour du thème «Se réunir pour l’avenir». Des conférences et des ateliers portant sur le marketing, le commerce international, les médias sociaux, les nouvelles technologies de fabrication et la gemmologie ont permis aux participants d’en apprendre un peu plus sur l’état et l’avenir de notre industrie. Également, une exposition concours pour les diplômés, un salon des fournisseurs et un souper banquet ont permis à tous de se rencontrer et d’établir des liens. L’établissement est situé au croisement des grands axes routiers de la région et est très bien desservi par les transports en commun. De plus, les résidents du Québec bénéficient de la gratuité scolaire.

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cjenfrançais Le CFP Maurice-Barbeau est plus qu’une école. Il est sans contredit un acteur fondamental dans le développement de l’industrie québécoise de la bijouterie-joaillerie. Pour de plus amples renseignements, nous vous invitons à consulter notre site Internet au www.cfpmb.com. Portrait de la relève!

«Nous sommes fraîchement diplômés de la formation professionnelle en bijouterie-joaillerie du CFP Maurice-Barbeau (CFPMB) à Québec et il nous tient à cœur aujourd’hui de partager avec vous cette expérience enrichissante. De prime abord, l’aménagement des ateliers de bijouterie-joaillerie et les équipements présents nous ont tout de suite enchantés. Au CFPMB, tout est mis en œuvre pour faciliter et enrichir la formation des étudiants. Ce constat devient une réalité pour quiconque se retrouve derrière un des nombreux bancs de bijoutier avec le statut d’étudiant. À cela s’ajoute l’approche de nos enseignants, tous issus de l’industrie de la bijouterie-joaillerie. Ils nous guident et prennent en considération nos envies et nos goûts pour l’exploration de techniques nouvelles. Cette ouverture à la créativité est rafraîchissante, tout en intégrant l’aspect technique propre à la bijouterie-joaillerie. On se sent très vite autonome; on a son banc de bijoutier, son coffre à outils et ses modules d’apprentissage que l’on suit comme des carnets de route. Chacun à son rythme en apprentissage individualisé. Pour autant, les enseignants sont là pour répondre à nos questions en tout temps. Ils proposent des démonstrations individualisées ou de groupes. Ils n’hésitent pas à reprendre avec nous des points clefs. Ils nous font découvrir des ouvrages passionnants sur la bijouterie et des astuces personnelles pour nous faciliter la vie. En somme, ils nourrissent notre curiosité et nous aident à développer nos aptitudes professionnelles. L’approche de la formation est principalement technique, et la majeure partie de notre temps se déroule en travaillant au banc. Une place de choix est réservée à l’aspect professionnel et tout ce que cela implique également sur le plan humain. De plus, nos modules intègrent plusieurs incursions auprès de l’industrie de la bijouterie-joaillerie, tels que des visites en entreprise, des salons de métiers d’art, un module dédié à la vente, ainsi qu’un stage en entreprise. Bracelet articulé en argent sterling / Audrey-Maude Baril-Lecomte

Technique de Kumboo / Application de la feuille d’or / Argent fin et or jaune 24k / Fabien Despeyroux

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Nous retirons beaucoup de plaisir de cette formation, et beaucoup de fierté pour avoir mené à terme nos idées et projets et ce, malgré des moments de stress. Bien plus encore, nous gardons en mémoire la rencontre avec nos enseignants et nos camarades, humainement très riche. Nous avons appris à mieux nous connaître et ainsi cerner nos points forts et nos points faibles. Nous avons découvert de nombreuses facettes sur notre futur métier, et bien plus encore, et toutes les perspectives d’avenir possibles en fin de formation. L’aventure ne se termine pas avec la formation. On nous donne les clefs pour réussir et on nous montre quels sont les chemins que l’on peut emprunter. Nos perspectives d’avenir sont nombreuses dans le domaine. Suite à nos études, nous souhaitons consolider et renforcer nos connaissances et compétences acquises pendant notre formation. Nous désirons travailler avec d’autres joailliers expérimentés et aussi travailler sur des projets personnels. Nous désirons promouvoir notre métier auprès du public et plus tard, nous envisageons l’enseignement!» Fabien Despeyroux, diplômé en avril 2012. Après des études en commerce et en arts appliqués, Fabien a traversé l’Atlantique depuis la France afin d’étudier au Québec. Sa prochaine étape? Direction la Nouvelle-Zélande afin d’apprendre à mieux se connaître et de continuer sa découverte du monde et de la bijouterie-joaillerie. Emmanuelle Reid, diplômée en mars 2012. Avant sa formation au CFPMB en bijouterie-joaillerie, Emmanuelle a complété des études en arts visuels en plus d’enseigner l’anglais à des adultes. Pour l’avenir, elle souhaite travailler avec des joailliers expérimentés tout en ayant sa propre production de bijoux. Christelle Lévesque, diplômée en février 2012. Avec un parcours diversifié en éducation spécialisée, en production d’ateliers d’art et en coopération interculturelle, la joaillerie arrive dans un moment de la vie de Christelle où le besoin de créer se fait sentir. Appréciant le côté marketing de la joaillerie, elle occupe présentement un emploi qui lui permet de consolider ses acquis techniques tout en développant ses propres projets créatifs. * Les photographies qui accompagnent l’article ont été réalisées par des élèves du département de Photographie du Centre de formation professionnelle Maurice-Barbeau. [CJ] Christelle Lévesque, Emmanuelle Reid, Fabien Despeyroux

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newgeneration

In it for life How new-generation jewellers are making their mark on the industry By Gord Henning

ove. Hard work. And a little something on the side. That’s the recipe for success for three jewellers who are following in their parents’ footsteps, all of whom started working—and learning—from a young age.

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newgeneration

Mother and daughter – Sheila and Anita Agrawal, Best Bargains

“I was officially on the sales floor when I was 13,” says Haigo Derian, Vice President of L’Oro Jewellery, now 34 years old, “and I sold my first watch, a Tag Heuer, and that customer is still a customer today. That’s a great feeling.”

New directions

Sam Mamane, Chief Executive Officer of ItalGem Inc., is 32 now, and helped out from even younger: “I started at the age of 10, basically. My father was a gold jewellery guy, and he made me work from the ground up, cleaning the jewellery and running around the store doing repairs.” After graduating from college, Mamane joined the family business full time, going to trade shows, making contacts and solidifying relationships in order to build the business with his parents.

Mamane, based in Montreal, has moved the furthest from his parents’ business, focusing on his own company, ItalGem Inc., that he created back in 2002 to import 14K gold jewellery. As the price of gold increased, the jewellery become more expensive and unaffordable for his customer base. So he was spurred to create his own line called ItalGem Steel that “makes it affordable for young people.”

Anita Agrawal, Chief Operating Officer of Best Bargains, 34, tells a similar story: “I started working with my parents when I was 12,” helping out during March break and through the summers.

All three of these jewellers are dedicated to the jewellery industry; they have also all created something new that moved beyond the businesses their parents originated.

The line’s look is “current and hip,” say Mamane; however, it doesn’t chase trends. At the line’s launch in Las Vegas, where ItalGem had rented a “little booth,” Mamane was nervous at the unveiling. “I was really scared to compete in the American market, but the clients reacted very well. www.canadianjeweller.com

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newgeneration

Now they’re happy, and we’re happy and we just keep on trying to grow slowly in the right direction.” He sells ItalGem Steel across North America, Mexico and part of the Caribbean. Agrawal also started her own line of jewellery, which she launched in 2010, building upon the foundation of her parents’ business. Over time, Best Bargains had developed a niche with inexpensive jewellery featuring a wide variety of gemstones, explains Agrawal. “We built this reputation as a company that makes silver jewellery around the $25 price point, and I felt there was an opportunity to go beyond that.” The new line–Jewels by Anita–was a step up in price. “Affordability and wearability is key, though it’s a little higher end. With my jewellery, the price point is around $200.” By leveraging all the contacts that Best Bargains already had, the new initiative is already a success, says Agrawal. It now accounts for roughly a third of Best Bargains’ sales. And she credits her family for allowing it to come so far, so fast: “Realistically, when you’re working with family, they can be your worst critics. They can also be your biggest supporters.” At L’Oro Jewellery, Derian’s father Vahram, who founded the business in 1984, is moving into what Derian describes as “semi-retirement,” handing over more of the reins. “That’s a great feeling for me because it means he trusts me,” Derian says. “My job is to be progressive with the business while maintaining the traditional value system it was built upon. It’s a line that goes from my father to me and hopefully on to my son.” Derian has also branched out, creating a separate company called Cupido with his close friend, Jeff Karadjiam, which targets the fashion luxury jewellery segment. “Current and hip” jewellery introduced by Sam Mamane, ItalGem Inc.

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Dedication

One commonality among Agrawal, Mamane and Derian is dedication— putting in many hours every week. “I work about 80, 90 hours a week, easily,” says Mamane, “but I love what I do. I wake up in the morning excited about going to work.” Derian estimates that he works at least 75 hours a week. “When I go home, I’m still thinking about work. This business is my life. Some people like to separate that. I don’t.” And Agrawal notes that she took her first vacation in five years last summer. She puts in 50 to 60 hours at the family jewellery business, and then logs more hours on her own consulting business. “There are always emails to answer,” she says, but notes that working for family gives her the flexibility to pursue other interests, such as consulting and sitting on the boards of non-profits. It’s also given her the skills to do it. At Best Bargains, “I’m your PR person, your advertising person, your inventory person and your salesperson,” says Agrawal. “The skills you’re learning at this level, the ones you learn because you do everything, you can take those skills and apply them to something else.” The wired world

The Internet is unlocking a whole new way of connecting with customers, and the younger generation is looking to leverage that more and more. “Social media is becoming very important to us,” says Derian, “We’re becoming aware of how powerful that can be.” He and his partner in the Cupido business attend at least five different high-end trade shows around the world every year to stay on top of the current trends and products in luxury jewellery. In 2010, they took a highdefinition video camera to BaselWorld for the first time, sitting down to interview some high-profile manufacturers at the show, such as U-Boat Watches, Hermes and Nanis Jewels. Edited and posted to Cupido’s own YouTube channel, the U-Boat interview alone has been viewed more than 2,000 times. Derian also uses Twitter to stay connected with his customers: “If I tweet about something I see at BaselWorld, it also gets posted on our site,” giving customers a number of ways to stay current about the latest styles, and reinforcing where they can purchase them.

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For details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page 120 CJAPR2012_9148_Rodania_NONA_Silver_FP.indd 1

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newgeneration

Cupido, started by Haigo Derian and Jeff Karadjian

At Best Bargains, Agrawal went back to school after finishing university, getting a degree in e-commerce, knowledge she immediately applied to the Best Bargains website. “We were one of the first companies to produce an e-commerce site. That was something very rare at the time.” Mamane’s ItalGem also has an e-commerce website, one that sells directly to the public and accounts for 10 per cent of his sales. Agrawal uses the Internet to quickly connect to specific customers: “I’ll take the handful of customers that I know will want a certain type of product and I’ll send out an email blast. You have to have that edge, you have to have that kind of relationship with your clients” to stay successful, says Agrawal, who also creates custom catalogues for select clients. For her new Jewels by Anita line, she created a blog to promote its products. “Larger clients, such as department stores, want to see a brand presence, they want to know that you’ve taken the time to market it in a certain way and that the end consumer can see that,” says Agrawal. “It works well for our clients, as it’s doing part of their marketing for them. It saves them money in the end.”

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Cooperation

Agrawal has noticed a new element of cooperation among the second generation of jewellers. “You’ve seen them at trade shows,” she says of her peers, “you’ve grown up with them. We all have established businesses, and we all have our own clientele, so we don’t have to be as competitive.” Derian agrees, noting that “the jewellery business has always been secretive. Our parents, were typically all immigrants, and they had to do whatever they could do to make their business a success. It was their whole focus.” He thinks that today the industry has shrunk, leaving behind only those with a true love of the business, people who are interested in helping push each other to new levels of success. “We can’t be ambassadors for our industry unless we have a passion for it,” says Derian. It’s passion that Agrawal, Derian and Mamane all share. [CJ]

This is Part 2 in an ongoing Canadian Jeweller series about how the new generation of jewellers is shaping the industry in Canada.

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Consumers seek out bold, dramatic pieces that make a statement By Sarah Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor

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big&boldjewellery

Flower drop necklace, 18k-114gr total dia weight 48.54ct, from Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds

he 2012 awards season has confirmed what savvy jewellers have long suspected: the hottest jewellery of the moment is more than an accessory to an outfit—it’s the main event. From strong cuffs to elaborate earrings, to pendants and cocktail rings that make an impact, the stars have spoken, and modern jewellery buyers are definitely taking note. At the Grammy Awards in mid-February, jewellery highlights included Kelly Clarkson sparkling in an Iceberg pendant necklace and 14.11-carat rough diamond solitaire ring with pave, while Jennifer Hudson, who performed a show-stopping tribute to the late, great Whitney Houston, wore two wide platinum and diamond cuffs, a platinum ring with diamonds and pearls, and platinum and diamond chandelier earrings. The big winner of the night, Adele, who took home six statues, paired a simple black dress with glittering Cartier Habana earrings and Nigeria ring—which proved that today’s baubles don’t have to be oversized to command undivided attention. Later that month, A-listers pulled out all the stops at the Academy Awards. Thirty-year-old former Best Actress winner Natalie Portman paired a daring V-shaped diamond necklace with diamond drop earrings. Viola Davis stepped out in a daringly short hairstyle with

gorgeous green emerald drop earrings by Lorraine Schwartz. The most talked-about look of the night, Gwyneth Paltrow’s Tom Ford cape dress, would not have been complete without the double hoop Duchess Hibiscus ring made of rose-cut and round diamonds with purple sapphires set in white gold, valued at $160,000, and the commanding Hearts of Winter cuff bracelet, consisting of 2,368 rose-cut, round brilliant diamonds, weighing 163 carats and valued at $1 million. Trend takes off

Jewellery designer John Azadian of Di Donna is happy to see this trend taking off. “I think it’s attractive, it’s flashy and it makes a statement. It’s more fashionable, more trendy, more modern,” he says. Samantha Nemiroff of Samantha Nemiroff Jewellery concurs. “Statement pieces have never been more in. It’s armour for the inner city urban warrior woman. She can wear it to work and feel like she’s wearing armour.” Azadian says that while purple and pinks are very “in” right now, he predicts that we will see more light blue taking centre stage this summer. www.canadianjeweller.com

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big&boldjewellery

Triple flower ring 18k-27.20gr total dia weight 8.71ct, from Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds

Building a collection

These bold, one-of-a-kind engagement rings set the tone for women’s personal collections. As women enter later stages of their lives, building their careers through their 30s, balancing work and home in their 40s and beginning to enjoy the finer things in life in their 50s, they will continue to seek out unique pieces that reflect their personal style, while making a strong individual statement. “Of the statement pieces, the rings are selling the most, along with earrings and bangles, large bangles,” says Sapir, “and now I see a lot of trends with beautiful, big necklaces they are starting to purchase.”

“Bright colours are definitely big this year in fashion,” adds Nemiroff. “I’m going to be looking into bright colours and unusual combinations. I want to use even some neon colours—neons are back in, too.” Individuality expressed

“Twenty years ago people used to be a lot more conservative,” says Michael Sapir, partner at Mirage Creations and Novo Diamonds. “Today they seem to seek more to individualize themselves, and they view jewellery more like fashion. Larger stones are selling more, as well as larger pieces of jewellery. They tend to be bolder and more fashion-forward pieces. In today’s environment, people are looking to make a statement.”

Nemiroff, who creates every piece of her daring collections by hand, notes that statement jewellery has a long tradition of being fashionable. “In the ‘30s, costume jewellery was big. Maybe it has something to do with the economy, because when the economy sinks, people want to buy less expensive jewellery and they want to amuse themselves, brighten themselves up with jewellery. They are looking for fun, artistic pieces.” “Overall, the whole jewellery industry is moving in a different direction,” says Sapir. “Because the value of gold and diamonds has gone up so much, customers want that value to be reflected in the style of the jewellery pieces they have. If you have something that is very simple, the value doesn’t show that much. If you have a piece that is a little more grand, it sort of brings out the value and the statement.” Jewellery box escapees

Sapir notes that modern buyers are interested in building a collection that expresses their individuality, that can be mixed and matched to suit any occasion. This process often begins when customers are still in their 20s, with their engagement ring.

Perhaps the most fun aspect of this trend is that women are no longer keeping their jewels under lock and key, brought out and dusted off for only the most formal black-tie occasions. Today, high-end jewellery is at home just about anywhere—from the boardroom to casual parties, and everywhere in between.

“When it comes to engagement rings, women want to individualize themselves from others,” says Sapir. “They want to be a little bit different from the norm. They are looking for more detail-oriented jewellery. We used to sell a lot of simple solitaires. Today most of the solitaires we sell have halos around them with a lot of details and little stones, and on the shanks are little diamonds with pave settings. Even when [customers are buying] a 3-carat diamond, they are still enhancing [with smaller diamonds in the setting].”

“I don’t think this high-fashion jewellery is being worn just for big functions or weddings anymore,” Sapir says. “When I go out, I see a lot of people wearing high-fashion jewellery at dinner. They are dressing up a nice pair of jeans with a beautiful ring. They don’t overpower it, they won’t wear a watch and two rings and a bracelet—they do have statement pieces on all the time. Before, I don’t think people were comfortable wearing large rings that covered half their hand. Today, as they see it more on other people, they seem to be more comfortable wearing these larger pieces of jewellery.”

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Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666 For details, write #132 on Free Info Page, page 120

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big&boldjewellery While many consumers are still drawn to bright colours, neutral palettes are now highly prized for their versatility within a personal collection. Mix and match

“People want to have jewellery pieces to mix and match,” Sapir says. “A lot of black and white is still very much in style, as well as brown and white, champagne colours and white. We were specializing in black and white, and now we are doing champagne diamonds, a little bit on the lighter side, without the black, set in pink gold. Champagne colours set in pink gold have a nice effect.”

Vintage-inspired Ribbon Necklace featuring lilac ribbon, grey, luminescent pearls, coral hues, and pastel crystals on a rhodium-plated chain, from Swarovski

While hot colour palettes and materials will no doubt continue to evolve with the seasons, jewellers can expect the current fervour over bold jewellery to continue for a long time as customers age and keep building their individualized collections. “Overall, I’m happy to see this trend,” says Sapir. “I think it’s long overdue that the Canadian market started going toward the larger North American market. In previous years, a lot of people in Canada would go overseas and purchase statement jewellery pieces, whereas today, a lot of the high-end independent stores carry nice statement pieces. I know because they are buying a lot of it from me. And they are selling them.” [CJ]

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Full protection Your insurance should cover everything from equipment breakdown, to theft, and tornado damage BY SARAH O’CONNOR

In June of 2012, Phil Pancer of Ringleader Jewellers in Pickering, Ontario received the sort of phone call every jeweller dreads. There had been an explosion at his retail store. “My wife called and said I needed to get to the store right away,” says Pancer. “My first thought was ‘is everyone OK?’” Luckily, no one had been hurt, yet there was a great deal of damage caused by a standard piece of equipment that every jeweller will be familiar with: the store’s steam cleaner. These machines use pressurized water to clean jewellery. If the internal pressure builds too quickly, either due to human error or a mechanical malfunction, the results can be pretty scary. Pancer’s steam cleaner blew up like a bomb, with pieces of glass and metal shrapnel exploding everywhere.

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“Four walls were blown out,” recalls Pancer. “An entire glass window had to be replaced. We had studs in the walls, and the explosion blew out all the studs. We had to put new moulding on the walls. We had to replace the carpet. It was a lot of work to get everything put back together.” NO CATASTROPHE

The good news is that Ringleader Jewellers was insured, and so this frightening and terribly inconvenient incident did not lead to financial catastrophe. “Everything was covered by Jewelers Mutual,” Pancer reports. “Phil’s description reminds us that’s there’s a lot more to your business operation than just jewellery,” notes Ben Festge, marketing

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insurancefeature

communications specialist with Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. “Jewellers own a lot of business personal property! That’s why we always stress the importance of having the appropriate amount of business personal property (BPP) coverage. While a loss to jewellery inventory can be devastating, a loss to a business’s property and/or equipment can be equally destructive. At Jewelers Mutual, we like when our customers are fully covered, and we have a lot of tools in place to help make sure every claim story has a happy ending.” One of the defining characteristics of the jewellery industry is the unusually high value of the inventory that jewellers keep on hand. Security is always at the forefront of a jeweller’s mind, and insurance is an oft-overlooked piece of the security puzzle. As Phil Pancer’s story demonstrates, not all threats to the well being of your business can be kept at bay by sophisticated alarm systems or even the best business practices. FREE YOUR FOCUS

Peace of mind is an obvious benefit of being fully insured, and after the initial investment of time spent working with your broker to establish the right type of coverage for your particular situation, knowing that you are covered does indeed free you up to focus on other aspects of your business. Insurance also shifts financial risk from you to your insurance company, protecting your financial security and helping you recover in the event of a loss due to a wide range of events. Last but not least, reputable insurance companies will often provide loss prevention and safety education to their clients in order to help mitigate potential risks or losses. Some of the possible scenarios that jewellers insurance helps protect against are obvious, such as crimes of burglary, armed robbery, distraction thefts, smash-and-grab runs and employee theft. Environmental risks such as fires, earthquakes, hurricanes and tornados are also included, depending on the geographic location. BEYOND THE OBVIOUS

Less obvious risks that insurance can help protect you against include shipping losses, travel losses, liability for negligent acts, equipment breakdown and workmanship, such as an incident where a customer’s jewellery is damaged while being worked on. The factors that an individual jeweller should consider when deciding what type of insurance is right for them and the amount of insurance they are comfortable carrying are myriad, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. When you contact a broker for a quote, it is important that they spend some time learning about the unique attributes of your business.

“Jewellery businesses vary so much from operation to operation, with many factors playing a role in determining the right insurance coverage for a business,” acknowledges Festge. “For this reason, we recommend that business owners contact a Jewelers Mutual insurance agent to discuss their unique business operations and properly evaluate their insurance coverage needs.” Here are three of the most common types of policies available to jewellers: • A Jewellers Block Policy offers all-risk coverage, which means that the insurer must specify what is not covered, rather than what is. Typical exclusions include employee dishonesty, mysterious loss or unexplained loss. Jewellers must meet certain requirements in order to qualify for a Jewellers Block Policy. These will vary by brokerage; typical requirements include a burglary-resistant safe, taking regular physical inventory and an alarm system that meets certain standards. • A Business Owners Policy can cover several lines of insurance within one policy, and typically include building, contents, business interruption and general liability. The specific criteria for qualification and the details of coverage will vary with each insurance company; the benefits of this type of policy can include lower premiums because you are combining coverage, and convenience because you only have one policy to manage. • An Umbrella Policy offers broad, flexible, high-limit liability coverage designed to supplement your primary liability coverage. The term “umbrella” refers to the blanket of coverage that such policies offer, over and above your basic policy. Umbrella policies may be purchased from the same company that provides your Jewellers Block or Business Owners policy, or from a separate company that specializes in umbrella liability coverage. These three types of coverage are sufficient in most situations; however, a wide variety of endorsements and extensions can be added in order to customize your policy to include various employees, your personal residence and excursions to trade shows and exhibitions, to name a few options. “Due to factors like competition and reduction of overall crime through promoting crime awareness, Jewellers Block insurance rates have declined over the past 10 years,” notes Festge, pointing to a trend that most insurance companies will be in alignment with. “Looking forward to the future, given the increase in crime over the past two to three years, we anticipate a stabilization of block insurance rates.” As with any insurance, it is always a wise idea to contact multiple insurance providers for quotes in order to get the most coverage at the best price. Then enjoy a good night’s sleep, knowing that the assets of your business are more secure. [CJ]

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co-opadvertising

Smart advertising Cooperative advertising helps small to medium businesses compete By Nikki Fotheringham

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co-opadvertising

n an increasingly sophisticated and competitive marketplace, it’s hard to have your voice heard. Consumers are bombarded with print, email, voice mail, video and online advertising at every turn. It’s easy to fade into the white noise or slip through the cracks. Impressive, effective advertising requires resources, and many small to medium businesses have neither the time nor the money to devote to eye-popping advertising. Luckily, there are several options out there that ensure your advertising budget is working smart.

op dollars, which can be anywhere from 50 to 100 per cent of the cost of advertising, are a great way to build brand awareness and to link their name with that of a nationally recognized brand or product.”

To get more bang for your marketing buck, consider cooperative advertising, where costs are shared among two or more participants, usually a manufacturer and its retailers. For example, a jeweller wanting to run a Valentine’s Day special would offer a certain item for special offer in collaboration with suppliers. The wholesaler and retailer share advertising costs, promoting the Valentine’s special to their clientele.

“In most cases, brand manufacturers will support their distributors with ready-to-use marketing collateral, such as lifestyle and product photography, print ads, direct mail templates, Web banners, great giveaways for contests and sometimes media guidance,” says Shephard. “For many small business owners, the biggest challenge is finding the time to gather assets and maintain a marketing program. Cooperative advertising can help by supplementing their marketing activities with funding and great marketing materials, ensuring shop owners stay visible to their customers.”

“We house several brands of jewellery and watches under our roof. Cooperative advertising allows us to inform the consumer of the availability of specific brands at our location, while sharing the cost of such initiatives with our suppliers,” says Marco Miserendino, owner of Bijouterie Italienne, a luxury brand store based in Montreal. more sophisticated

Jordan Hellyer from Easy Email Solutions agrees. “Marketing tactics get more sophisticated every day; however, ultimately, companies have one goal: to get in front of the potential customer as often as they can, so that once it’s time to make a sale, their brand will be the first one that’s thought of,” he says. Once retailers and suppliers agree to share costs, the retailer can approach their advertising agency for advice on how to proceed. Advertising agencies can design a campaign that enhances the branding of both companies and reaches the target demographic. In-house marketing personnel can collaborate and share talents and time to create advertising campaigns that suit both companies’ budgets and marketing ethos. Very powerful

“Co-op advertising is a very powerful tool for the small business owner, especially one with limited means to support the kind of advertising campaign which can be vital to the success of a business enterprise,” says David Shephard, CEO of Jib advertising agency in Toronto. “We encourage our clients to take advantage of these opportunities whenever possible. Co-

Manufacturers and retailers can share a plethora of helpful services above and beyond financial support. They can share resources such as graphics and photographs, templates or employee expertise and time that can really help retailers get ahead.

The benefits work both ways, and manufacturers can look forward to a number of advantages. Manufacturers sell more of their products when retailers promote their wares through competitions, events and special offers. The positive branding of the retailers also improves the customer’s perception of the manufacturer. If you trust your jeweller and enjoy their service, you are likely to think well of their products, too. “Cooperative advertising also benefits manufacturers and service providers,” Shepherd says. “Enlisting small business allies diminishes the cost of advertising for these larger companies, especially if they encourage cooperative advertising arrangements in several communities. In addition, large manufacturers may also enjoy benefits associated with having their products aligned with leading businesses in a given community. For example, a manufacturer of vintage replica necklaces may benefit from cooperative advertising with a stylish neighbourhood boutique: the personality of the shop itself will reflect positively on the product.” Cooperative advertising is a tried and trusted marketing tactic that spans advertising vehicles from print to TV. You only need to take a quick look back at the modern history of advertising to see this trend. At the advent of television, popular shows were “brought to you by…” a given company. This was an early “win-win” scenario for all involved. The television station generated revenue for its broadcast content, and the advertiser benefitted from the positive associations with that content.

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co-opadvertising

Co-op advertising for Canadian jewellers is very much a continuation of this trend. The advertised brands get invaluable placement in front of an interested, “ready to buy” audience, while jewellers benefit from the discounts or increased revenue this advertising generates, says Hellyer.

advertising campaign exclusively is that a jewellery store loses its own identity and branding. We have a story to tell. It spans over 52 years, it is unique and we are proud of our business model. That is why we do not rely exclusively on cooperative advertising to promote our store.”

Pick partners carefully

The perfect balance, then, lies in using cooperative advertising in conjunction with your own branding and advertising that establishes your voice in the community. Pick your partners with care, to ensure a symbiotic relationship that benefits everyone. Select retail brands that reflect the level of quality and luxury your clients have come to expect. Sharing resources with suppliers can be a real boon for the small to medium business that wants to stand out. [CJ]

It’s not all plain sailing, so jewellers and manufacturers must pick their co-op partners with care. Just as positive customer experiences can be mutually beneficial for branding, so can negative ones. Bad product quality or poor service on the part of the retailer can damage the reputations of both brands. Hellyer explains: “Jewellers also need to be aware that association with certain brands can have unintended consequences. Customers always want to feel they’re getting the highest levels of customer support and advice, and if you’re seen to be favouring your advertised brands over others, this could negatively impact the relationship with potential customers. There’s also the matter of “match” to consider. If you are positioning your store at the very high end, you want to make sure that only the highest end advertisers are associated with you. In short, it needs to be a good fit!”

Brands want to collaborate with you

Have a strategy

far. “There are so many different ways to reach people—TV, print,

There are many other dangers, too; aligning oneself too closely with suppliers may hobble your efforts to establish your brand and an identity that is recognizable to the consumer. Retailers must have a branding strategy that gives them their own identity, which appeals to their niche market.

social media—it can be overwhelming. So how do you get there?”

The director of marketing and advertising at Movado Group of Canada feels that local dealers and chains could better take advantage of the co-op advertising deals available to them. “A lot of them are not aware that they can capitalize on someone like me to get a great discount on advertising,” says Zinnia Crawford. For starters, Movado will “tag” a dealer in an ad at no charge. “That gives individuals free advertising,” she says. And as for co-op advertising, Crawford emphasizes that it can go

The answer, she says, is simple. It’s all about collaboration: “It’s very beneficial to group up and do it together.” Crawford, for one, welcomes the opportunity to collaborate and pass on discounts that make advertising more affordable. “You can really get better bang for

Miserendino describes how his Montreal store, Bijouterie Italienne, uses cooperative advertising sparingly: “The risk in running a cooperative

your buck,” she says. – Lynne Shuttleworth

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 120

Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) STOCK# SHAPE CARAT COLOR CLARITY DIMENSIONS HB/K/1279 CUSH 1.02 FCY VS2 6.12*5.43*3.40 HB/F/1101 RBC 1.05 FCY H/C 6.67*6.70*3.99 HB/K/1282 CUSH 1.05 FIY VS2 5.61*5.39*3.74 HB/K/1280 RAD 1.07 FCY VVS1 5.72*5.41*3.65 HB/K/1281 RAD 1.16 FIY H/C 6.44*5.84*3.56 HB/F/1209 CUSH 1.41 FCY SI1 7.01*6.08*3.69 HB/K-1278 RAD 1.46 FIY VS1 6.08*5.93*4.03 HB/K-1239 RAD 1.51 FCY IF 6.70*6.15*4.06 HB/K/1240 RAD 1.57 FCY IF 6.29*6.23*4.19 HB/K/1244 RAD 1.80 FCY IF 6.76*6.69*4.69 HB/K/1277 CUSH 2.01 FCY VS2 7.32*7.20*4.36 HB/K/1273 RAD 2.04 FCY VVS2 7.34*6.85*4.48 HB/F/1290 CUSH 3.14 FCY VVS2 7.93*7.89*5.33 HB/K/1257 CUSH 3.60 FIY IF 8.69*8.36*5.54 HB/S/1287 CUSH 4.01 FIY VS2 9.61*8.78*5.57 HB/K/1265 RAD 4.12 FCY IF 9.55*8.76*5.44 HB/K/1264 RAD 4.28 FCY IF 8.64*8.63*5.91 HB/K/1288 RAD 5.05 FCY SI1 9.12*9.02*6.28 HB/K/1266 RAD 5.17 FCY IF 9.74*9.44*6.09 HB/R/1289 RAD 5.95 FIY IF 10.84*10.18*6.03 HB/F/23 CUSH 8.88 FCY VS2 12.07*11.49*7.10 HB/K/1263 CUSH 0.54 F/PUR/PINK VS2 4.98*4.26*2.89 HB/K/1283 HEART 1.00 F/I/PINK SI1 6.54*6.83*3.05 HB/1280 CUSH 1.02 F/PUR/PINK SI1 5.95*5.36*3.61 HB/DV/11 RAD 1.08 F/L/PUR/PINK H/C 6.25*5.26*3.66 HB/K/1259 PEAR 1.18 F/I/PINK H/C 7.62*5.39*3.74 HB/K/1275 RAD 1.21 F/PUR/PPINK SI2 6.35*5.49*3.84 HB/K/1260 CUSH 1.57 F/PUR/P HC 7.03*6.62*4.05 HB/1282 OVAL 1.00 F/I/BLUE IF 8.70*6.46*2.48 HB/S/1284 RAD 1.74 F/L/BLUE IF 6.91*6.82*4.32

LAB DEPTH TABLE GIA 62.7 74 GIA GIA 69.4 64 GIA 67.4 72 GIA GIA 60.8 59 GIA 68 69 GIA 66.1 74 GIA 67.2 68 GIA 70 63 GIA 60.6 65 GIA 65.4 63 GIA 67.6 60 GIA 66.3 65 GIA 63.5 61 GIA 62 70 GIA 68.5 71 GIA 69.6 68 GIA 64.5 69 GIA 59.2 72 GIA 61.8 69 GIA 67.9 66 GIA 44.7 71 GIA 67.3 60 GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA

GIRDLE POL SYM FLOUR M-VTK VG G N VTC-EXT VTN-EXT

VG VG

G G

N MB

M-TK EX ETK VG VTK-XTK VG TK-XTK VG XTK VG ETN-ETK G ETK G VTK-ETK EX TKVTK EX M-VTK VG VTK VG ETN-VTK VG STK-VTK G XTK VG VTN-ETK G VTK-XTK G TN-VTK G STK-ETK VG STK-XTK VG

VG G G G VG VG G VG G G VG VG G VG G G G G G

F S N N F N N F S N N N N N N N S N N

G G

N N

69.9

VTK-ETK

38.4 63.4

70 60

TN-ETK VG VTK-ETK VG

PRICE

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Award Ceremony & Reception

2012 CATEGORIES 1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight. Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat. 2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian. 3. PEARLS: The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones. 4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used. 5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design element, will be judged on creativity

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107. For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact Melanie Seth at melanie@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6114. Entry deadline is July 7th, 2012, 5 p.m.

*Enter online as well at www.canadianjeweller.com

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ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION DESIGNER ’ S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS

CITY

PROVINCE

POSTAL CODE

PHONE

FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS