CJ March/April 2014 by Rive Gauche Media

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

MARCH/APRIL 2014

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Raffy’s fervour CJ INTERVIEW Pascal for watchmaking

DIGITAL DEALS Online shopping adds a new layer to retailing

BACK TO BASICS The hottest bridal trends for the season

EN FRANÇAIS Joolz – Bar à Bijoux: Pour un menu des marques les plus demandées

Joel, Eric+Lou

Lou Goldberg Jeweller Inc.

COUNTDOWN TO OUR

135th Anniversary Scan me to go to our website

The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows CMCA AUDITED

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CHOOSE • CHANGE • CREATE

Purple Collection

MARCH/APRIL 2014

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 135 / No. 03

Phyllis Richard OLI V IER FELICIO

Phyllis Richard joined Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) in April 1996 as Executive Director. JVC is a non-profit association to advance ethical practices, promote consumer protection, develop ethical industry guidelines, assist law enforcement agencies, provide crime prevention education and help level the playing field for the Canadian jewellery and watch industry. In her capacity as JVC’s Executive Director, Phyllis has overseen the establishment of industry guidelines, the development of a crime prevention program and acts as a lead liaison with government. She is the President of the Canadian Diamond Code Committee (CDCC) which administers the Voluntary Code for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims (the Code).

I R I N A LY T C H A K M AYA A K BAY GILLI A N SYCH ERIN BOOTH TA M A R A K E L LY CONTRIBUTORS

Editorial Intern / intern@gorgmgo.com Art Director / gillian@faith.ca Production Manager / production@rivegauchemedia.com Production Design Intern / intern.production@thergmgroup.net Maria Laura Barreto, Véronique Dubé, Christian Fleury, Sarah B. Hood, Parker, Michael Riley, Kuldip Rupra, Kavita Sabharwal, Sevan Titizian

SALES LUC Y HOLDEN

Associate Publisher tel: 416-203-7900 x6117 / email: lucy@thergmgroup.net

J EFF YA M AGUCHI

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6122 / email: jeff@thergmgroup.net

J A S O N C AW L E Y

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6134 / email: jason@thergmgroup.net

C I R C U L AT I O N Publication Partners 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A1

Editorial Board

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HEAD OFFICE

60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

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MELANIE SETH

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ER IN POR EDOS

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LOUISE CÔTÉ

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive

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Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

Credit Manager / louise@gorgmgo.com 2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

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CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com

Larry B. Johnson, Janet Lamont, John Lamont, Liza Marley, Duncan

GA RT H AT K INSON

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

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Departments

Contents

12 EDITOR’S LET TER

14 LET TER FROM THE BOARD 16 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES

90 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

18 PRODUCT SHOWCASE 22 STAR WATCH This season's red carpet roundup had the stars looking their most ethereal in exquisite dresses and majestic jewels.

by Maya Akbay

29 MINING NEWS How market-driven certification systems are emerging in the mining sector and why they can have a positive impact. by Maria Laura Barreto

30 CJ GALLERY David Yurman unleashes its glam upon Yorkdale; OMEGA rules Sochi 42 CJ INTERVIEW Pascal Raffy, owner of Bovet, approaches watchmaking with fervour and dedication. by Kavita Sabharwal

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

96 ST YLE COUNCIL When it comes to your customers' jewellery, pastels and florals set the tone for the season. 98 L AST WORD Into the blue

24 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

86 CELEBR ATING 135 YEARS

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CJ en français 51 LES NOUVELLES 54 JOOLZ - BAR À BIJOUX : POUR UN MENU DES MARQUES LES PLUS DEMANDÉES March/April 2014 cover photographed

^ Next issue cover spotlight:

by Christian Fleury

Maison Birks

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RaHul KadaKia. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise. Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day. GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 ADVERTISER: GIA

CanadianJeweller_FNL 2013.indd 1

PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

2/25/13 8:40 AM

Features & Columns

Contents

36 ON THE COVER: LOU GOLDBERG JEWELLERS With over 60 years in the business, it's no wonder this jeweller is one of the most trusted names in Montreal. byVeronique Dube

44 BASELWORLD 2014 PREVIEW Nothing short of spectacular.

by Maya Akbay

58 FEATURE: DIGITAL DEALS Online shopping adds a new layer to modern retailing. by Liza Marley

62 FEATURE: RING LEADER Standing out in a crowded bridal market.

34 GEMS+GEMMOLOGY Step into spring with colour.

by Sarah B. Hood

by Duncan Parker

64 SIHH 2014 COVER AGE In with the old.

72 JVC ANNUAL CRIME REPORT: PART 1 Summary of JVC's annual crime report.

by Maya Akbay

by Janet Lamont

68 COMPANY PROFILE GIA: The world's foremost authority on gems and jewellery.

74 JVC REPORT JVC's police coalitions: the road to mutual trust and respect.

by Irina Lytchak

by John Lamont

78 FEATURE: BACK TO BASICS The hottest bridal and engagement trends for the season.

76 KEEPING TIME What goes into a watch restoration?

by Maya Akbay

by Kuldip Rupra

82 DESIGNER PROFILE Shah Emily Noaman: A star in the making.

84 ON DISPL AY Maximizing profits by minimizing in-store organization issues.

by Michael Riley

by Larry B. Johnson

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A R C H /A P R I L 2 0 1 4 足足足

Celebrate spring in style

Editor's Letter

IRINA LYTCHAK, MANAGING EDITOR

WITH THE PROMISE OF WARMER DAYS AHEAD also comes the excitement of shows like Baselworld and JCK Las Vegas, making this one of my favourite seasons of the year. Having attended a number of trade shows over the past few years, I have met a wide variety of very different types of people. There are those who continue to take in the excitement of each exhibit every single year, as if being there for the first time, while many others have been jaded by the glitz and glamour after multiple years of attendance. I think that in order to keep the excitement alive for myself, I have to remember what my purpose is at these shows, especially when considering the fact that my responsibilities with the magazine and relationships with the rest of the industry are constantly evolving. Remembering this at every show I attend has in turn allowed me to foster a meaningful relationship with each and every one of you. To mark the start of the trade shows, we have included a striking review of the SIHH exhibit that took place in January as well as a comprehensive preview of the upcoming Baselworld show. (Be sure to read up on our Baselworld review in the May/June 2014 issue!) In the spirit of spring, a season during which so many lovebirds choose to tie the knot, we have included a feature on bridal and engagement trends called “Back to Basics” by Maya Akbay on page 78. In addition to that, you can also find a story on tips for retailers that cover how to stand out in a crowded bridal market; “Ring Leader” is written by Sarah B. Hood on page 62. With the undeniable rise of technology and its growing influence on the jewellery and watch industry, (which is also touched on by this issue’s editorial board member Sevan Titizian, general manager of Gem Corp International), it was important for us to include a piece by Liza Marley on the significance of online and in-store retailing techniques. You can find “Digital Deals” on page 58. For this issue’s columns, our Gems & Gemmology writer Duncan Parker covered the colour trends for the spring season on page 34 in “Step into spring with colour” and on page 76, you will find our regular Keeping Time column by Kuldip Rupra of TimeRevolution.com titled “What goes into a watch restoration?” Lastly, don’t forget to look through the very informative first part of the Jewellers Vigilance Canada 2013 Annual Crime Report on page 72 with the second portion to follow in the May/June 2014 issue. CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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marcH 27 – aPrIl 3 2014 BrIllIaNce meeTs

With more than 1,400 brands and exhibitors presenting their finest collections and their latest creations, Baselworld is the leading event on the global watch and jewellery sector’s calendar. For eight spring days, the city of Basel becomes the industry’s capital, and its spectacular exhibition hall – designed by world-renowned local architects Herzog & de Meuron – hosts over 150,000 specialists and show visitors.

We look forward to welcome you at Baselworld 2014 27 March to 3 April, Basel, Switzerland

B a se lw o r l d.c o m

bsw14_ad_229x276_e_jm.indd 1

28.01.14 13:35

Letter from the Board

Sevan Titizian General Manager, Gem Corp International

WHEN I WAS ASKED BY CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE to give my outlook on the future of jewellery, I was apprehensive to say the least. How do I know where things are headed in this unpredictable world of missing planes, civil uprisings, and inclement weather? However, one thing I was sure about is the ever-changing, ever-advancing tide of technology. With e-retailers like jewelmint.com providing the “getting to know you” retail relationship through a computer screen, it’s becoming even clearer that an online shopping experience for your clientele is necessary to not only thrive, but to survive in this competitive marketplace. And for those who think online shopping doesn’t concern high-end merchandise, think again. Luxury juggernauts like Tiffany & Co. and Birks offer online shopping for items ranging anywhere from $100 to $10,000. Besides, jewellery is not just about luxury anymore, it encompasses a variety of emotions and opinions. Although some consumers still perceive jewellery as a symbol of status and prestige, others view it as part of their sense of style and fashion choices, and still others believe it gives them a way to express their creativity and/or originality. Today’s jeweller must recognize which one of these clients their jewellery speaks to and use this information to enhance the shopping experience. No matter what, the way people shop is changing, and to continue to be a part of that, we must change along with it. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Languages, Logos, Fonts Laser Engrave everything you want

中文 Ελληνικά

55 Queen Street East, Suite 1210, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Tel: 416.368.8240 / 888.470.MARY Fax: 416.368.8057 / 888.248.MARY www.maryjewellery.com | info@maryjewellery.com

Maya Akbay

Currently serving as the Editorial Intern for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Maya is an emerging journalist who co-founded bLITs Magazine, a digital and print publication geared toward book lovers. While pursuing her Bachelor of Arts in Journalism at the University of Toronto, Maya dedicated her summer hours to interning at various film production and newspaper firms in her native Istanbul, Turkey. Back in Toronto, Maya has worked as a copy editor and reporter for the Toronto, Scarborough and East York Observer publications and she continues pursuing her dream of becoming a big-time editor some day. Maya wrote the very insightful feature on engagement and bridal trends for this spring season on page 78.

Larry B. Johnson

As the CEO of Larry Johnson Consulting Services, an international visual merchandising consulting group based in Colleyville, Texas, Larry speaks often at industry events around the world. He is the holder of multiple U.S. patents for displays and packaging products and the author of The Complete Guide to Effective Jewelry Display, the best-selling and most widely read text on jewellery merchandising ever written. For this issue, Larry wrote an excellent piece on perfecting your store’s displays on page 84.

Christian Fleury

Born in Sorel, Quebec, today Christian makes a living by taking pictures of people for magazines, companies, institutions and agencies. He bought his first camera at a Value Village in Victoria, B.C. in 1987, dipped his hands for the first time at a photo lab in Toronto in 1989 and by 1991, he was holding reflectors in Montreal. Christian’s style is a balance between finding the right shot and creating it. He prefers to offer his documentary approach but knows how to make clients happy with his troubleshooting experience and good coffee. Christian shot this issue’s cover and cover story on page 36.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes For our March/April issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, the stars of the cover story were Lou, Joel and Eric Goldberg of Lou Goldberg Jeweller Inc. The shoot took place at the Montreal location of the store, which has been situated in the chic area of Westmount for more than five decades. During the shoot, Lou Goldberg, founder of Lou Goldberg Jeweller Inc., and his two sons, Joel and Eric, were under the excellent direction of photographer Christian Fleury. Canadian Jeweller Magazine writer Véronique Dubé had the chance to sit down with the family to talk about the legacy that has been put forth by Lou when he started the business many years ago. Having the opportunity to collaborate with the Goldbergs for this issue’s cover story was instrumental in pursuing our publication’s efforts in building a solid relationship with all of our Canadian jewellers. CJ

Above photo: Joel and Lou Goldberg Right: Kathleen McCormick, watch repairs, with Lou Goldberg

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Product Showcase

Lotus Jewellery Limited Edition Kameleon Jewelry® Easter JewelPops™ arrive just in time for the Easter Bunny! Delightfully named “Easter Egg Sparkle,” “Spring Chick,” “Hoppy Easter,” and new for 2014, “Peepers!” These JewelPops™ are sure to make you smile! Retail price: ring $199; Easter JewelPops (promo price) $34.

Nova

The snow is melting, which means spring is just around the corner. Springtime is about new products, trends, and styles, and this season will feature an array of finger bracelets. Finger bracelets are the newest and hottest trend in Hollywood, which is why Nova Diamonds is excited to release the first design from our newest collection, set in 18k gold and featuring almost 4cts of white diamonds, retailing at $13,130. This collection will soon feature a variety of price points to satisfy various markets.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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ELLE Time and Jewelry ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offer a distinguished look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. Feminine and flirty, the ELLE “Calypso” Collection features bright agate stones with sterling silver tassels. Creating captivating movement, this look is sure to be an instant focal point of your outfit.

Stuller

As the largest distributor of CanadaMark™ diamonds in North America, Stuller provides the broadest choice in diamonds, all expertly cut and perfectly matched. With our proven track record of accurate grading standards, dependable delivery, and competitive pricing, Stuller is the only diamond supplier you’ll ever need to be a hero for your customers. Visit us online at www.stuller.com or call 800-877-7777 to learn more.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Product Showcase

Atlantic Engraving New from Atlantic Engraving, the Passion Noir Collection includes a gentlemen’s and ladies’ matching duo of a 10k white gold, 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015cts and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01cts diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

Mary Jewellery Photo engraving – capturing memories and wearing them close to your heart. Turn a simple dog tag into a masterpiece.

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Star Watch

Heavenly Creatures This season’s red carpet roundup had the stars looking their most ethereal in exquisite dresses and majestic jewels. Big Bang Star Kaley Cuoco had a big night at the 2014 People's Choice Awards at the Nokia Theatre in Los Angeles, CA. The Big Bang Theory star was a definite winner, nabbing the Favorite Comedic TV Actress award while sporting a beautiful cerulean skirt with a lattice-stitched floral pattern and a simple, black sleeveless top, all by Sachin+Babi. She paired the ensemble with cobalt blue suede Aperlaï Liberty sandals and a gorgeous Doves by Doron Paloma lapis and diamond ring and earrings ($3,068 and $3,127).

Shine Bright Like a Diamond Jaime King looked every bit like an angel wearing a Prabal Gurung white silk organza off-the-shoulder dress with a black silk crepe back from the Spring 2014 collection to The Weinstein Company & Netflix's 2014 Golden Globes After Party at The Beverly Hilton Hotel in California. The star elegantly coupled her outfit with a Jimmy Choo printed Sweetie clutch and a pair of dazzling Sethi Couture diamond chandelier earrings from the True Romance collection ($15,840).

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Divine Deity There’s no denying that Marisa Miller looked like a real goddess at the NBC and Time Inc. celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue at the Dolby Theatre in Hollywood. The stunning model wore a jaw-dropping AMEN gold tone sequined dress with long sleeves and a plunging neckline from the Italian label’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection. Miller also didn’t hold back when it came to accessories, sporting a pair of diamond earrings from Le Vian ($45,048) and nude Lady Peep pumps by Christian Louboutin.

For the Record

News/Trends/Events Alex and Ani launches in Canada Supporting their entry into Canada, Alex and Ani, the fastest growing American lifestyle brand, has chosen PR and social media agency, Lotus Leaf Communications as its Canadian agency of record to help introduce and build public awareness, and drive sales for the positive energy and lifestyle brand. “It was important for us to choose an agency that not only understands our core company beliefs but actively works to create positive synergies with our brand,” says Dr. Christian Kalweit, senior vice president of International Business Development. “We immediately felt a connection with the Lotus Leaf Communications team and were impressed by their strategic thinking, social media presence, and extensive media and influencer relationships.” Canadian sales and marketing agency Nouvo Mode Intl has been at the helm of the brand’s successful growth in the market – driving sales through key retail partnerships with iconic department store Hudson’s Bay and independent retailers across the country. Conceived, crafted and cemented in the brand’s Rhode Island roots, Alex and Ani products are designed and manufactured using sustainable materials that are made in America with love. Since the brand’s inception, Alex and Ani headquarters have remained nestled in the heart of Greater Providence, Rhode Island. Designer Carolyn Rafaelian, Founder and Creative Director of the company, believes in the power of positive energy, a core company principle. Alex and Ani pieces are made to adorn the body, enlighten the mind and empower the spirit. Rafaelian believes that every individual has a positive message to share with the world and by incorporating powerful symbolism and design into each piece, Alex and Ani provides a vehicle for the wearer to express their individuality in an organic, spiritual way. Rafaelian is deeply committed to creating a greener future for the planet and its inhabitants, which is why reusing and recycling materials in the creation of the jewellery is an integral part of the brand’s mission as an eco-conscious brand. The designer previously received the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur Of The Year New England 2012 award in the Consumer Products Category in addition to the company recognition on Inc. Magazine’s 2013 Inc. 500 list of the fastest-growing private companies in America, privately owned, ranking at #94. At the moment, Alex and Ani is most widely recognized for its signature and patented expandable wire charm bangles, which reflect meaningful, spiritual and universal charms that represent what is unique and authentic about the wearer. The company’s trend jewellery offerings have average price points that range from $28 individually and up to $188 for a set of bangles. The brand has expanded into other jewellery categories such as necklaces, earrings, rings, and precious metals and is currently branching out into other lifestyle product offerings such as home fragrance candles and beauty products. The brand will continue its product extension lines throughout 2014. In addition, Alex and Ani is one of the top 100 recognized job producers in the U.S. (growing from 23 employees in 2009 to over 1,000 employees in 2013), ranked by Inc. Magazine’s Hire Power Awards. Alex and Ani is currently available across Canada. The brand’s international presence also extends to Japan, U.K., Italy, Ireland, Spain, Portugal, Philippines, Kuwait, and several Caribbean Islands. Visit alexandani.com for more information.

Carolyn Rafaelian

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Umicore celebrates 100th anniversary

COLOUR CATALOGUE THE SYSTEM S |TB HU EYSW LM LE YS HA SSET T ET T SY A MSE HE H W T

LSE LH T

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SILVER SILVER JEWELLERY JEWELLERY

AT S E L W HT LS HE S UY Y TE M ST | B |SBYS EM UY T

Overnight’s new Rebate Program is designed for the purpose of rewarding retail jewellers for growing their business. Those who sign up for the program before the May 1 deadline and double their business from 2013 will receive a five per cent rebate cheque, and a 10 per cent cheque if they triple their business. “If a customer had done a thousand dollars in 2013 for business, and they took that to $2,000 in 2014, simply by ordering those necessities from Overnight or looking to Overnight first when they need things, they would receive a cheque back from us for five per cent of that full $2,000 purchase for 2014. If that same customer had ordered $2,000 in 2013 and brought that to $3,000 in 2014, they would receive a 10 per cent of that $3,000,” says VP of Overnight Mountings Matthew Roth. “It’s a pretty straightforward program.” Overnight is now offering custom models, loose diamonds, in-store sample programs, and a variety of specialty lines such as their silver fashion line and Monogram line. “Everybody’s looking to be smart with their money these days, and we thought what a great idea to reward our customers for sending that business our way. When they have a choice of where to purchase their five-stone channel bands or their solitaires, or their chains, or their loose diamonds, they now have an option,” says Roth. “If they order those from Overnight, they’ll receive the same very competitive pricing that we always provide, the excellent service that we always provide, and in addition to that, if they simply look to us more and they order from us more, they can earn discounts.” The company has done this once before in 2009, and had customers who went from a thousand to ten thousand, according to Roth. “[The program] is just a small token of our appreciation for our retail customer. They’ve continued to show us their support and we see this as an opportunity to give back,” says Jeff Adwar, president of Overnight. “If we can put some money into the hands of our customers and at the same time grow our business, then everybody wins.”

CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS PENDANTS RINGSB ANGLES PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES LOCKETS CUBICS... LOCKETS CUBICS...

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Overnight Mountings launches new Rebate Program

Umicore Precious Metals acquired Imperial Smelting & Refining Company of Canada in 2007 to expand in the jewellery market in North America, and now it celebrates 100 years in the business. Umicore is an environmentally responsibile company that manufactures plate, strip, wire, rings, tube, grain and fine bullion. The company is a major recycler of residues in precious metals including gold, silver, platinum and palladium. Umicore was ranked first in The Global 100 Most Sustainable Companies in the World in 2013, while being named one of Canada’s 50 Best Managed Companies by Deloitte Touche in the early 2000’s. A new Managing Director, Thelma Chuakay, has been appointed, who has worked with Umicore in the past.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

For the Record

Tresor Paris Canadian Ambassador Heather Moyse wins gold in Sochi Tresor Paris Canadian Ambassador Heather Moyse made Olympic history as she took gold along with Kaillie Humphries for the second time, becoming the first female duo to defend Olympic gold in Sochi. The defending gold medallists won the coveted gold medal with a combined time of 3:50.61. “Canada’s Moyse is the best of all time,” says Sportsnet of Moyse and The Globe and Mail writes, “Canadian bobsleigh duo Humphries and Moyse are ready to take on the world.” Moyse was chosen to represent her country as a flag-bearer at the closing ceremony at the Olympics. “Without a doubt, Heather Moyse not only excels as an Olympic athlete but also wears our brand very well,” says Hugh McKeon, Canadian director for Tresor Paris Canada. “She has proven that Tresor Paris jewellery can be worn at any occasion, especially while winning a second Olympic gold medal. We are honoured to have her as our Canadian Ambassador.” Moyse’s favourite pieces from the brand’s collection include the Ballant Blanc 10mm crystal drop earrings and the Melange 8mm frosted white crystal bracelet.

“Carters Jewellers have Rembrandt floor displays in two of our locations. We feel that having a full display for customers to choose from, rather than ordering from the catalogue, has increased our charm and charm bracelet sales greatly. Our customers notice and comment on the charm selection. We have also had an increase in repeat customers purchasing charms. All in all, we are very happy with the performance of our Rembrandt displays.” Judy Hay, General Manager Carters Jewellers, British Columbia

Carters Jewellers’ Rembrandt Charm Department .com Thousands of charms in gold and silver.

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11 Progress Ave., Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 • 24/7 fax 416.293.1227 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca

INSTORE Magazine

Top 15

Best-Performing Brand* *"The Big Survey", INSTORE - Oct. 2012

Queen dons brooch designed by Saskatchewan jeweller

Victorinox Swiss Army and Wenger join forces Victorinox Swiss Army and Wenger have joined forces in a merger effective January 1, 2014. Exhibiting under the Victorinox Swiss Army brand name together at the SHOT Show, the brand will introduce a line of 52 new Swiss Army Knives entitled The Delémont Collection, as well as a line of Swiss-made Wenger watches. “The culmination of the merger between Victorinox Swiss Army and Wenger means exciting things are on the horizon for both our brand and the industry as a whole,” says North American Victorinox Swiss Army President, René Stutz. “For a long time now, we’ve viewed our coming together as a necessary step that aids in clarity of brand differentiation, pooling of resources, acceleration of innovation, and enhancement of the product range.” Since Victorinox purchased 113-year-old Wenger of Delémont, Switzerland in 2005, both brands have evolved, including the addition of new product categories, as well as a host of significant knife product launches successfully introduced to world markets. The fact that both brands built their knife businesses on the same product heritage of the Swiss Army Knife meant that customers often couldn’t distinguish between the two brands. Now that they have combined knife assortments under the Victorinox Swiss Army brand, they are aiming to improve leverage growth potential and provide a coherent brand experience. The Delémont Collection is comprised of 52 new Swiss Army Knives of three different sizes of 65mm, 85mm and 130 mm. This includes seven new 65mm knives, 34 new 85mm knives and 11 new 130mm knives. For example, the Rangergrip 61 from the Delémont collection costs $70 and is a part of the Ranger series, which features locking blades that are capable of cutting more demanding and challenging projects down to size. Ergonomic handles improve the knives’ safety, performance and functionality. Rangergrip 61 Implements include a 3.9" one hand lock blade, can opener, small screwdriver, cap lifter with a large locking screwdriver, wire stripper, punch, reamer, corkscrew, key ring, tweezers, and toothpick. The Wenger watch collection features 25 new SKUs across five collections. The former Wenger factory in Delémont has continued production throughout the merger and is currently running at full tilt producing the new Delémont knife collection, as well as the line of Wenger timepieces at a separate facility.

Her Royal Majesty Queen Elizabeth II wore a brooch designed by Canadian jeweller Hillberg & Berk while attending church with Prince Philip on February 2 in England. Saskatchewan Lieutenant-Governor Vaughn Solomon Schofield presented her Majesty with the tourmaline, diamond and freshwater pearl brooch last October at Buckingham Palace. The Queen looked stunning in a beautifully coordinating outfit of pinks and soft grey that provided the perfect back drop for the delicate purple hues of the brooch. She also carried a bouquet of spring flowers as she greeted the children and families of Norfolk, England. The Regina-based design and retail business Hillberg & Berk has sold close to 40,000 items per year since 2007, with annual revenues between $2 million and $5 million. It also has TV appearances and an Oscar gifting lounge under its belt, prior to its commission from the Queen. "I know how much work goes into her wardrobe, so to see the Queen wearing the brooch only three months after receiving it was unexpected,” says Rachel Mielke, the CEO and head designer behind Hillberg & Berk. “Hearing the news and seeing the photos was a very special moment for me and my entire team.” Hillberg & Berk, named after Mielke’s grandmother and her dog Berkeley, has original collections that retail in about 40 stores across Canada, while carrying other lines like US-based Tacori in their boutique in Regina. The prices range from $65 to $800, with most falling around the $200 to $300 point. The one-of-a-kind brooch for the Queen has a contemporary floral design set in 18k white gold and features Madagascar tourmaline, a white freshwater pearl and 300 diamonds, valued at $15,000. Along with the rest of the tourmaline, Mielke has released a special-issue Legacy Collection “that any woman could own”, which retails for $310 to $12,950.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Rio Grande wins award for Ethics in Business

For the Record

From left to right: Alan Bell (president, Rio Grande), Molly Bell (executive V.P., Rio Grande) and Eddie Bell (V.P. of manufacturing, Rio Grande)

The Samaritan Counseling Centre awarded Rio Grande with a Rust Award for Excellence in Ethical Business Practice by a For-Profit Business at the 15th annual New Mexico Ethics in Business Awards. Rio Grande is among the three recipients of the award, along with Don Chalmers Ford and Heritage Home Healthcare & Hospice. The awards honour organizations and individuals who promote ethical business conduct for the benefit of the workplace, the marketplace, the environment and the community. Ethical business practice is determined by right organizational and individual behavior based on high standards and exemplary practices. One of the nation’s largest suppliers to the jewellery industry, Rio Grande was founded in 1944 by Saul Bell and purchased just over a year ago by Richline Group, a Berkshire Hathaway Company. To this day, Rio Grande continues to be led by second-generation Bell family Alan, Molly and Eddie Bell. “It is really an honour to receive this award, considering the investigative efforts put into this process! Everyone at Rio Grande is proud and humbled to have been recognized as a recipient of this award,” says Molly Bell, executive vice president of Rio Grande. The final 31 nominees for the awards were subject to a rigorous selection process, with Samaritan partnering up with the Anderson School of Business at the University of New Mexico to come up with an exhaustive report about each of the final nominees. After this, a final selection committee went over more than 800 pages of report to finally select the winners. Other winners are the Ronald McDonald House Charities of New Mexico for the Hopkins Award for Excellence in Ethical Practice by a Non-Profit Organization, Gary Tonjes for the PNM Award for Individual Excellence in Ethical Business Practice in honour of John Ackerman, and Jeff Diamond for the Bill Daniels Award for Ethical Entrepreneurship. The Samaritan Counseling Center has been hosting the New Mexico Ethics in Business Awards since 2000.

1-168 Konrad Crescent, Markham, ON L3R 9T9 PHONE: (866) 837 ELLE (3553) FAX: (866) 653 ELLE (3553) EMAIL: elle@paj.ca WEBSITE: www.ellejewelry.com

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Mining News

Beyond promises: In search of what is “good” How market-driven certification systems are emerging in the mining sector and why they can have a positive impact for consumers, producers and communities. by Maria Laura Barreto

MOST OF US SEEK TO BUY AND SELL the best possible products. But, as I have explored in previous columns, this simple, virtuous aspiration is becoming increasingly complex. Jewellery markets and related mining activities are becoming more intertwined for ethical reasons. That’s why I want to drill down (pun intended) into some of the topics concerning the quality of our jewellery and how its production can promote environmental protection and more healthy mining communities. In the 1980s, as a young lawyer in Brazil, I found myself in the middle of a debate about the potential use of voluntary initiatives instead of government regulations and enforcement. At the time, I didn’t think these kinds of solutions were effective in addressing the struggles of the mining sector. These initiatives only looked like a movement to just de-regulate a sector that, on the contrary, needed to have better rules around the access to and sharing of resources. It was only in middle of the 1990s that I came to understand that voluntary initiatives, in particular market-driven certification systems, could actually be complementary to laws and useful to us (as consumers, retailers and producers) in improving industry practices. While these schemes had already been applied to the agriculture and forestry industries, I started to realize that it might be possible for independent, third party certification to deliver performance standards that could promote leadership in the mining sector. I started to see the power of the market at work. Through certification, products could be differentiated; they could stand apart from similar products and create a genuine competitive advantage. The difference in the performances of social and environmental companies was being compared to that of the difference between a common diamond and one with a higher quality cut, polish or a colour. Certification has continued to evolve into an effective tool that helps create unique, valuable products and address various needs including those of emerging ethical markets. As a result, over the last three decades, we have seen a remarkable growth of these systems to the tune of over $30 billion last year. In the mining and jewellery sectors, however, certification is still is a new phenomenon and with this novelty comes a lot of questions about how and where this approach is most relevant and what its costs are. As we evaluate these benefits and expenses, it is important to understand that not all certifications systems are equal. A key indication of a high-quality system is that it distills a complex set of issues and choices into a simpler and more reliable decision about purchasing

a “good” product. It allows producers and consumers to use common shorthand that helps us navigate the choices around what cup of coffee we drink or what piece of jewellery we purchase for our loved ones or for ourselves. Clearly, certification can be a great tool, but it cannot be approached naively and still requires some due diligence in discerning between empty promises and those that represent genuine quality control systems. Fortunately, there are organizations like ISEAL (www.isealalliance.org) that have been established to help us understand, in more rigorous terms, what kind of practices we should look for in certification systems. In spite of the challenges and complexities, I believe these market-based initiatives are here to stay. The same consumers that ask questions about their food have learned to ask ethical questions about the other goods, especially those that have emotional symbolism attached to the product. I have come to believe so much in this approach that, over the last seven years, I have devoted a big part of my time to volunteer at an organization that works with certification of artisanal and small scale gold mining. Luckily for me, I recently had the chance to experience it on a very personal level and I would like to share this with you. When I turned 50, my husband gave me a small but exquisite gold pendant. It may not have been worth as much as some of the jewellery pieces I have bought and received throughout my life, but when I learned of the story behind it, it became irreplaceable to me. My husband didn’t know much about gold or jewellery but he found a very good local jeweller who was able to take my husband’s personal design ideas and turn them into a very lovely, unique piece. He decided that if he was going to create something really meaningful, the gold needed to be very special – not so much in terms of the karats or the colour of the gold (which were of very high quality) but in the sense of how and where it was produced. That’s why he chose certified gold and in doing so, he didn’t have any hesitation in paying a 10 per cent premium on the price of the raw material. My husband knew the premium would be returned to the miners who would be able to use it to invest in the development of their community. It was a small percentage of the total price but a large investment in the inherent virtue of the pendant. It was, if you will, a way of genuinely spreading the love and care of this unique gift. To come back to my earlier theme, it is encouraging to know that society is not only demanding more dreams, but is also starting to give us the tools that can help us realize them. CJ

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Store photos credit: photo © Jeffrey Totaro

CJ Gallery

DAVID YURMAN, a leading U.S. fine jewellery and luxury watch designer for men, women, and children, recently opened its first ever Toronto Boutique in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre. To mark the occasion, the brand hosted a special, in-store event for Toronto’s crème de la crème this past January. Guests were treated to showcases filled with the brand’s classic and innovative designs, including everything from wedding bands and custom pieces to pendants and David Yurman’s signature cable bracelets. Members of the brand’s team were also onsite to answer any questions. The new space, which is 1,837-square-feet, was conceptualized by renowned architectural firm Gabellini Sheppard Associates and is a perfect reflection of David Yurman’s luxurious yet relaxed aesthetic. “We’re proud to make a home for ourselves in Toronto,” says David Yurman’s President, Chief Commercial Officer, Carol Pennelli. “The decision to expand into this market was driven by a loyal and avid following of Canadian clients that have been shopping with us for years in the US. We’re thrilled to be a part of this diverse and vibrant community, and look forward to introducing our brand to an entirely new customer base.” CJ

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Event photos credit: photo © Ernesto Di Stefano/ WireImage

David Yurman unleashes its glam upon Yorkdale Second row, left to right: The night of the store opening in Yorkdale Mall; Danielle Loftus, brand director at David Yurman; Oliver Geddes, owner of The Fifth; Natasha Geddes, marketing director at The Fifth Inc.; Sisters Caillianne and Samantha Beckerman of Beckerman Bite Plate and label Beckerman; Joffrey Lupul of the Toronto Maple Leafs; Michelle Bilodeau, editorial director at FrontRowMag.com; Ivy Chen, founder and CEO of JOLIE

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OMEGA took Sochi

Top, clockwise: Stephen Urquhart and Jacques Rogge in front of the OMEGA’s Countdown Clock, Sochi; Inside OMEGA Pavilion in Sochi’s Olympic Park; Outside OMEGA Pavilion in Sochi’s Olympic Park; OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean “Sochi 2014” Limited Edition caseback; OMEGA’s Countdown Clock in Lausanne; OMEGA Pavilion in Sochi’s Olympic Park; Alexandre Bilodeau and Stephen Urquhart ride in the bobsleigh simulator at the OMEGA Pavilion

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SWISS LUXURY WATCHMAKER OMEGA has solidified a golden reputation for being the official timekeeping device of the Olympic Games. This year was no different as the brand descended upon Sochi for the 2014 Winter Olympics and marked its 26th time in the role of the Official Timekeeper since 1932. Prior to the start of the games, OMEGA President Stephen Urquhart joined International Olympic Committee President Jacques Rogge in front of the OMEGA’s Countdown Clock in Sochi to celebrate the unveiling of eight other OMEGA Countdown Clocks across Russia. In a separate occasion and with just days to go before the Opening Ceremony of the games, the brand celebrated the grand opening of its OMEGA Pavilion in Sochi’s Olympic Park. Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek, Stephen Urquhart, IOC President Thomas Bach and legendary swimmer and IOC member Alexander Popov were all on hand to pay homage to the special moment. During the course of the games, OMEGA welcomed two-time gold medalist Alexandre Bilodeau to its Pavilion. Back in 2010, the freestyle skier was presented with a Seamaster Planet Ocean watch by OMEGA Ambassador Michael Phelps during the Vancouver Olympic Games, for being the first male to win gold on home soil in Canada. In Sochi, Bilodeau won gold again, becoming the first athlete to win back-to-back Olympic gold medals in any freestyle skiing discipline. To commemmorate the brand’s participation in the games, OMEGA also created two special editions of its Seamaster Planet Ocean wristwatches. The watches were created in both ladies’ and gents’ versions, each in an edition of 2,014 pieces. CJ

Gems + Gemmology

Step into spring with colour With the warm days just around the corner and the various shades of spring bursting into play, what should the jewellery industry expect in terms of colour trends this season? by Duncan Parker

Amethyst ring featuring pink sapphires and green tsavorite garnets, sold in the Fall 2013 Dupuis auction for nearly four times its pre-auction estimate

Belle Epoque pair of aquamarine, pearl and diamond earrings, circa 1910, sold in the Fall 2013 Dupuis auction

AS WE HEAD INTO SPRING, our thoughts tend to wander to the warmer weather, the longer days, and the brighter colours. But for this particular column, I won’t spend time discussing the weather or the length of the days ahead. Instead, it’s colour that will be my main focus. Colour applies to so many different aspects of our lives – from the outfits we wear and the cars we drive, to our emotions (red for passion or green for envy) and the music we prefer – colour has always been very predominant. Every spring, we are introduced to a multitude of new fashion collections and accessories. While designers and trendsetters tend to use colours that are anticipated and that we are comfortable with, sometimes we also get a few surprises. We know that the soles of all Louboutin shoes will be red, but what about the shoe itself? The Tiffany & Co. box will continue to showcase its signature turquoise blue shade, but what gems will be cradled inside? The bright colours of spring, like those of the blooming crocuses and tulips, bring a sudden impulse of joy to the tired winter heart. We can look forward to the rich tones of passionate red rubies, sultry green emeralds, sober purple amethysts, but what else is out there? We can only be patient in waiting to see which colours will make a splash this season. During this time of year, the entire jewellery industry is gearing up for the upcoming trade shows, with the Tucson gem show being a starting point for many of us. The shows are essential because they will reveal new sources, recently discovered gem materials, as well as the fascinating and unusual colours and cuts that will set the tone for the rest of the year. Another factor that influences trends and colours for much of the industry

Coral and gold brooch sold in the Fall 2013 Dupuis auction

is the award show rundown, which reveals a lot of the year’s hottest jewellery collections and designers. This year, so far, we’ve seen the predictable, over-the-top diamond pieces, as well as a number of exceptionally colourful gemstones, opals, tourmalines, beryls, and vintage and antique jewels. Jewellery is essential for accenting any ensemble, and it really is imperative to have lots of choices to meet a diverse range of needs. This season, we have seen a really heavy push toward strong colours in some of the secondary gems showcased by various retailers. Tiffany has featured a blue sodalite while Paloma Picasso used blue-green amazonite in some of its jewels. These types of gems are able to deliver a punch of colour but keep the costs more reasonable. At auction, we don’t see very much brand new jewellery, but as my beloved aunt Bridget used to say, “Fashion is cyclical, and beautiful things will always endure.” Auctions provide a chance to catch hold of something that is beautifully made, is of fine quality, and may be the latest thing, but has already made its rounds. These vintage jewels are timeless and generally, to make it into an auction, they do need to be pretty fabulous. As a jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers, I don’t do any buying, except for specimens I use in teaching, but I do go to Tucson because the experience provides an opportunity to see the latest, newest, brightest gems and jewels. The trends help determine what might be of interest among auction bidders in upcoming sales, which is not that different from what will becomes of interest in the retail world. CJ All photography: Dupuis Auctioneers

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ADVERTORIAL

Baselworld 2014 – Brilliance Meets From March 27 to April 3, 2014, in Basel, Switzerland The greatest showcase, biggest marketplace and finest trend detector of the world’s watch and jewellery sector What was once regarded as a classical trade fair has developed over the course of the past ten years into the benchmark and most important platform for the watch and jewellery industry. The world's most significant watch and jewellery show has been skilfully moulded by MCH Group into the most important event for what is today a highly successful and globally operating industry. It is hardly doing this world event justice to still refer to it as a “trade fair”. Instead, Baselworld has developed into the sector’s trendsetting hub, and constitutes the most comprehensive show, the most significant trading arena and the most important trend barometer all in one.

Greatest showcase Every year, some 1,400 exhibitors meet up. They include the most innovative and the most successful players, the world brands of the watch and jewellery sector and representatives of the supplier industry and related sectors. The complete picture the industry presents of itself in Basel is unrivalled anywhere else in the world and is accompanied on every occasion by more than 100,000 visitors. Wherever the spotlight falls on luxury goods, brands and lifestyle, professional communication is growing increasingly important all the time in the international context. In line with this trend, more and more media are accredited at Baselworld every year. In 2013, more than 3,600 media representatives attended the event in Switzerland.

Biggest marketplace There is nowhere else in the world where it is possible to witness the latest products, trends and developments live in one single place and to be able to assess them. It is here that the watch and jewellery sector first presents its innovations to the market and assimilates reactions to its new products and collections. The interaction over these eight days between watch and jewellery companies, purchasers and media representatives is unique by international comparison. That makes Baselworld doubtlessly the most important date in the year for every watch and jewellery professional, wherever in the world they may practise their craft.

Finest trend detector It is not, however, only watch and jewellery professionals who attend Baselworld. Increasing numbers of designers, architects, artists and trend scouts are visiting what must surely be the most luxurious show in the watch and jewellery world. The meticulously and spectacularly designed multi-storey pavilions are transformed into settings for brand worlds, which bring the watches, jewellery items and accessories displayed to life, so that they can be experienced with all the senses. The innovations presented at Baselworld become the trend barometer for other luxury goods bought and sold throughout the world. The use of new materials and shapes and their innovative processing, for instance, thus sets the tone for the luxury articles of tomorrow. It is no wonder that specialists from all corners of the globe feel their hearts beating faster at Baselworld. Baselworld 2014 – BRILLIANCE MEETS DATE Thursday, March 27 to Thursday, April 3, 2014 VENUE Exhibition Center Basel (Messe Basel) OPENING HOURS Daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. On the final day from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. ADMISSION PRICES 1 day pass CHF 60.00 8 day pass CHF 150.00 ORGANISER MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd. INTERNET baselworld.com E-MAIL visitor@baselworld.com FACEBOOK facebook.com/baselworld WEIBO weibo.com/baselworld TWITTER twitter.com/baselworld Photos of Baselworld are available for downloading free of charge at: baselworld.com/photos.

Refinement Cover Story

Over the past 60 years, Lou Goldberg Jeweller Inc. had become one of the most trusted Canadian jewellers by pursuing the philosophy of providing jewellery of the highest quality at the best possible prices. by Véronique Dubé photography by Christian Fleury

best

TODAY, THE MONTRÉAL-BASED JEWELLER IS PROUD TO SAY that the grandchildren and great-grandchildren of customers that purchased from the store more than five decades ago are a part of its loyal and dedicated client base. The exclusive treasures found at Lou Goldberg are proudly made, offering an eclectic inventory of one-of-a-kind pieces and estate jewellery from around the world. From the minute you walk into Lou Goldberg Jeweller, you enter a fascinating universe; a world of magnificent pieces of jewellery, unique precious stones, top quality diamonds and an outstanding range of watches. The history of the store dates back to 1946, when a savvy salesman was traveling the streets of Montréal in hopes of selling the various pieces of jewellery he had in his pockets. Soon afterwards, he began his business as a wholesaler while working under consignment. Eventually, a loyal clientele base helped the man establish his very first store front. That man was Lou Goldberg.

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at its

The legacy

When asked about the philosophy behind the store’s success, Lou’s son Joel Goldberg says that it’s all about “passion and beauty with a promise of quality.” “When people buy a piece of jewellery at Lou Goldberg, we want them to wear it for years and be able to pass it down through the generations,” adds Joel. He has been in the business since 1981 and his brother Eric was brought in a few years ago. Today, Joel is responsible for coloured stones, watches and administration and Eric focuses on the store’s diamond selection. Daniel Goldberg, Lou’s grandson and son of Sheldon Goldberg, heads the recently opened Lou Goldberg location in Toronto’s Forest Hill neighborhood. Meanwhile, Joel’s daughter Keely is living and working in Bangkok where she designs jewellery pieces under the family name. “Offering simple and timeless pieces of jewellery is the key to meet changes in trends as well as to conform to new regulations,” says Joel.

Lou, Joel and Eric Goldberg

FEBRUARY 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 足足足

“Offering simple and timeless pieces of jewellery is the key to meet changes in trends as well as to conform to new regulations.” – Joel Goldberg Today’s younger generation of consumers are avid online shoppers, and this has pushed the jeweller to put forth a contemporary and practical website with high quality photographs of the jewellery pieces. “People are looking for specific styles,” explains Joel. “They want to customize their jewellery and they want to know what they buy.” While the website reflects the savoir-faire of the jeweller, it is also used as a very useful tool that complements the two existing Lou Goldberg storefronts. “Shopping at Lou Goldberg is first and foremost based on relationships,” says Joel. “And relationships are not built online.”

Buy well, sell well The team at Lou Goldberg believes that the buying process is the prime factor that determines the success of the store. Over the past ten years, the jewellery market has changed and due to the increase in the price of gold, many European manufacturers have been forced to end production, giving headway to a booming Asian market. Nowadays, it’s all about the value and brands. Many jewellers, who have to work in an industry where quality prevails over quantity, have been forced to adapt to this new reality. Similarly, Lou Goldberg was encouraged to make some changes of its own. Even though the stores have not offered silver products in the past, now one section of both locations is dedicated to emerging silver brands such as Pesavento, Charles Garnier and Andrew Hamilton Crawford. The significance behind this change was to help transform Lou Goldberg’s window shoppers into long-time clients, while providing private and one-on-one service at the same time.

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Eric Goldberg FEBRUARY 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 足足足

Pearls, stones… and people Over the past few years, Lou Goldberg’s sons have been able to carry on the legacy and the vision of their father, who has always been very passionate about his work, mainly as a result of his fascination with the products he sells. “Our dad is known for being one of the greatest South Sea pearl finders,” says Joel. “We carry an impressive collection of pearl necklaces; the black ones are from the Tahitian islands and the white ones, mainly from Australia.” Eric Goldberg says that he is also very fond of the opportunities he gets through being a part of the family business, which can be attributed to the open-mindedness of today’s market. “Young people ask us for engagement rings with coloured stones as the center stone,” explains Eric. As a result, the jewellers have adjusted their product range in order to fit the market requirements and now offer a variety of designs with coloured gems. “We truly believe that buying a piece of jewellery is all about feelings. Listening to the clients brings us constant creativity.” Today, Lou Goldberg attracts clients that love beautiful things, appreciate the finest quality and expect exceptional service. Whether the customer is looking to restore an old jewellery piece or a long-established patron is in search of a unique jewel, Lou Goldberg’s exclusive selection of jewellery, rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets and custom services have the ability to satisfy even the most demanding needs. This is exactly what Lou Goldberg set out to accomplish over 50 years ago. CJ

“We truly believe that buying a piece of jewellery is all about feelings. Listening to the clients brings us constant creativity.” – Eric Goldberg AT A GL A NCE NAME: Lou Goldberg – Joaillier à Montréal/Lou Goldberg – Montreal Jeweller (and Toronto Jeweller) OWNERS: Joel and Eric Goldberg LOCATIONS: 1215 Greene Avenue, Montreal (Westmount), Quebec and 446 Spadina Road, #206, Toronto, Ontario STORE SIZE: 1,800 square feet, including the mezzanine (Montreal) and around 700 square feet (Toronto) STAFF: 2 permanent employees and 3 part time employees plus Joel and Eric Goldberg (Montreal) and Daniel Goldberg (Toronto) KNOWN FOR: High-end jewellery, pearls, and fashion forward customers BRANDS: Watches: Concord, Ebel, Oris, Longines, TW Steel, Victorinox; Silver: Charles Garnier, Pesavento, Andrew Hamilton Crawford; Jewels: manufacturers for brands like Chanel and Tiffany & Co. (no branded jewellery or diamonds) COOL FACTOR: The beautiful art on the walls in the Montreal location

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FEBRUARY 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 足足足

CJ Interview

A passion for true luxury Pascal Raffy approaches watchmaking with fervour and dedication, making every piece by Bovet Fleurier a work of art.

Left: Pascal Raffy, Owner of Bovet Fleurier. Top right: Amadeo Fleurier Tourbillon Virtuoso III. Bottom right: Amadeo Fleurier 36 “Miss Audrey”

by Kavita Sabharwal

PASCAL RAFFY, OWNER OF BOVET FLEURIER, has a passion for watchmaking surpassed only by his love of family. After 15 years of working for the family pharmaceutical business, he was prompted to change industries when his eight-year-old daughter noted that she didn’t see much of her father. This forced Raffy to rethink his work schedule. “I was traveling a lot during those years,” he says. “And whatever your children tell you is the most important thing in life, because everything starts with family and everything ends with family.” Raffy found a way to stay close to home while still doing something that he loved. “When I discovered a wrist timepiece of Bovet, I have to tell you that I fell in love. It had a true identity, and for me, true luxury, not marketing or trends, but true luxury has a clear identity.”

A family tradition Raffy’s grandfather had a love of beautiful timepieces, introducing him to fine watch making from a young age and passing on the knowledge that helps him run the company today. But Raffy doesn’t consider people related by genetics to be his only family. “I have 145 children,” he explains. “I have three children from my blood, and 142 children, some even older than me,” he says. “I consider that being the owner of Bovet house, all the people giving the passion in our timepieces, they’re also my family. And that passion is there because an independent house has to be patient. When you develop art based on true feelings, it’s a really human relationship.” Raffy treats his artisans as family by keeping the pressure off of them to mass-produce items by inflicting production timeframes. “To do my timepieces, I don’t want my people having pressure. I don’t want my people to have a timeframe. I only ask them, whenever they deliver a timepiece, to commit that it has been made respecting our standards of excellence,” says Raffy. “This is a luxury I’m offering to myself, I’m offering to my collectors and to my partners.”

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A statement of originality To Raffy, luxury defined means to be a true original. His goal for Bovet does not include having thousands of people wearing his timepieces, since he sees that as globalization rather than true luxury based on tradition, fashion and art. Bovet Fleurier collectors are respected by the brand, due to their sensitivity to true luxury, according to Raffy. “Some of them thank us for not doing 40,000 or 100,000 timepieces. First of all, it’s impossible; I don’t want to have a house with 2,000 people. I love the human dimension of Bovet house,” he says. “What matters to me as a collector is a clear identity, handcrafted with more fine qualities. That makes you feel like you’re an important human being, you have one of 4,000 timepieces made a year. Yes, this is a club of true luxury.” In Raffy’s opinion, to be a retailer of Bovet’s fine timepieces, quality must be at the forefront of your mind, as with his Canadian retailer EBillion in Yorkville, Toronto. “If you come to me and tell me I can sell your watches, I’m not making watches. A watch gives you the time. Timepieces give you emotion,” he explains. “My partner, first of all has to be a beautiful human being, sharing my values. In Toronto, I’m very lucky to have a partner who’s very sensitive to art, detail, good taste, with a beautiful education and deep sense of family.” When Raffy first took over ownership of Bovet Fleurier, it was only present in one country with a team of four people. Raffy elevated the brand to its current presence in 43 countries and a team of 142 artisans. “This is the object of our house. I love to customize; I love requests from collectors,” he says. “I love to give myself headaches to find that beautiful harmony between technical obligations and aesthetics, as long as it’s made with sensitivity with good taste. These are the only two things that I ask.” Raffy is no stranger to the hard work involved in creating a masterpiece. “Beauty is in the timepiece, which has soul. This is the beautiful part of my everyday life. I don’t think it’s easy. But I love it because it’s not easy.” CJ

,s Ltd. Toll Free: 800-561-3214 | MontrĂŠal: 514-337-4455 | Toronto: 416-630-8429 info@wengersltd.com

short of spectacular

Baselworld

Baselworld 2014: Nothing short of spectacular The industry event of the year is almost here. Showcasing the most distinguished names in the watch and jewellery world, this year’s Baselworld exhibit is a whole new spectacle that can’t be missed. by Maya Akbay

Baselworld serves as the leading event of the industry where over 2,000 prestigious companies from the most renowned watch, jewellery and precious-stone markets come together in Basel, Switzerland to display their exclusive collections. And those who have had the opportunity to visit this stunning event know that each year just gets better and better. Star architect Herzog & de Meuron designed the opening of the halls for this year’s exhibition and from March 27 to April 3, top industry brands such as Rolex, Buccellati, Faberge, Shinola, Steinmeyer, Al Coro, Guerci Pallavidin, Zeades, Bremont, and many more will show off their latest creations. Organizers of Baselworld 2014 have invited Ulrich “Ueli” Maurer, member of the Swiss Federal Council and head of the Swiss Federal Department of Defence, Civil Protection and Sports, to open this year’s showcase, which will create a very exciting start to this edition of the show. It has also been revealed that BBC World News is the official TV partner for Baselworld 2014, which means that for the next few months, the Baselworld TV spot will be broadcasted worldwide on BBC World News, garnering much wider coverage than usual. CJ

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1. Fabergé Moodshot Spiral ruby, emerald, multi-coloured diamond pendants 2. Hamilton Flintridge Lady featuring seven diamonds, silver-coloured dial; limited edition of 999 pieces 3. Fabergé Moodshot Devotion Spinel, emerald, sapphire rings 4. Hamilton Pan Europe 42mm stainless steel case 5. Buccellati Orologio Antho gold cuff watch 6. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch with 44.6mm stainless steel case and CFB 1950.1 automatic caliber 7. Al Coro Gioia rings with 0.17cts diamonds and green kunzite/moonstone grey stones 8. Stephen Webster Albion Rose Magnipheasant Drop Earrings with Red Garnet and Amethyst 9. Rado HyperChrome Automatic small second in plasma high-tech ceramic 10. Al Coro Amalfi Collection bracelet in 18k rose gold with crystal clear white diamonds

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11. Glycine “Airman Airfighter” with three time zones and a revolutionary sliding mechanism for the chronograph actuator 12. Rado HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph in plasma high-tech ceramic 13. Stephen Webster diamond and gemstone collar from the Magnipheasant line of Albion Rose Couture Collection 14. Alex Ball Bunny Ball pendant 15. Ti Sento Milano La Bella Vita Collection rings 16. Montres Breguet SA watch, platinum version of Classique “Grande Complication” Tourbillon extra-thin automatic 17. Guerci Pallavidini ring in 18k white gold, white diamonds and blue sapphires from Colours of Iceland Collection 18. Omega Constellation “Pluma” featuring mother-of-pearl dial and eleven diamond indexes set in 18k gold holder

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19. Mira Watch International from Mark collection, C143, reinterprets the Skeleton Window Watch 20. Gustafsson & Sjogren Aurora the Goddess of Dawn limited edition watch 21. Stephen Webster earrings, Deco Fallen Stars Shoulder Dusters, 18k white gold with pave emeralds 22. GaGà Milano Manuale 48mm watch with 15cts of white diamonds 23. Buccellati 18k WG ‘Elio Milleluci’ watch with 12.36cts of diamonds 24. Guess watch, W0247G3

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CJ en français

Les Nouvelles

par Véronique Dubé

Vente des bijoux et des montres en hausse de 4% pour 2013 chez LVMH LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton a rapporté une croissance de 4% de ses revenus internes en 2013 pour la division Montres & Joailleries. Ses résultats seraient rendus possibles entre autres grâce à l’excellente performance de ses propres boutiques, particulièrement celles de Bulgari. LVMH souligne que son réseau continue son expansion à travers le monde alors que la présence de ses marques dans les magasins se veut de plus en plus sélective. Le total des ventes de LVMH a atteint 39,28 milliards, ce qui, selon le PDG Bernard Arnault, est une excellente performance malgré les taux de change qui ont eu un impact négatif sur les affaires et la lente croissance des marchés européens.

Hera, bague Raya, édition spéciale « Violet Mist », argent 925, or jaune 18 carats et diamants

Un diamant bleu de près de 30 carats est découvert en Afrique du Sud La compagnie minière Petra Diamonds Ltd. a extrait un diamant brut de 29,6 carats de sa mine Cullinan en Afrique du Sud. Petra a décrit la pierre comme étant d’une saturation, d’un ton et d’une clarté exceptionnelles. Depuis qu’elle a acquis la mine en 2008, quatre gros diamants bleus en ont été extraits, dont trois se sont vendus à plus de 8 millions de dollars. Le plus gros d’entre eux était de 25,5 carats et avait été acquis pour la somme de 16,9 millions de dollars l’an dernier.radieux et est portée tant chez les femmes que chez les hommes.

L’institut GIA dispose d’un nouveau format de rapport L’institut GIA (Gemological Institute of America) – leader en matière de recherche, de formation et d’élaboration d’éléments et d’instruments dans l’étude et l’identification des pierres précieuses – a présenté le 1er janvier dernier son nouveau format de rapport. Il est utilisé pour la classification des diamants et l’identification des pierres afin d’offrir des caractéristiques de sécurité et des progrès technologiques améliorés. Le nouveau rapport est imprimé sur du papier aux propriétés uniques et durables. De plus, grâce aux codes Quick Response (QR) permettant un accès direct aux rapports de l’institut GIA en ligne, les clients et les consommateurs peuvent confirmer l’authenticité de classification et d’identification des rapports avec leurs téléphones intelligents.

Jean Christophe Bédos

Raymond Weil

Le président et chef de la direction de Birks joint le comité de rédaction du magazine Canadian Jeweller

Raymond Weil est décédé à l’âge de 87 ans

C’est avec honneur que le magazine Canadian Jeweller annonçait en janvier dernier l’arrivée de Jean Christophe Bédos au sein de son comité de rédaction. Oeuvrant dans le domaine de la bijouterie depuis 1988, il a d’abord fait son entrée chez Cartier avant de devenir directeur général à l’international auprès du président de Richemont (2000 à 2002) et directeur général de Cartier France (2002 à 2004). Monsieur Bédos a ensuite joint Boucheron où il a été le président et chef de direction pendant sept ans. Son parcours académique et professionnel en fait un joueur reconnu pour son flair, son esprit visionnaire et sa capacité d’anticipation.

Le 26 janvier 2014, à Genève, est décédé M. Raymond Weil, entouré de sa famille. Fondateur et président de RAYMOND WEIL Genève, il a été un pionnier et un entrepreneur déterminant dans l’industrie. En 1976, M. Weil a fondé sa compagnie au moment où le marché avait besoin de renouveau. Désireux de créer une montre de qualité qui serait vue comme un accessoire à la fois de luxe et abordable, il a aussi orienté son entreprise selon une approche personnelle, professionnelle et amicale. Aujourd’hui, elle est gérée par son beau-fils, Olivier Bernheim, et ses deux petits-fils, Elie et Pierre Bernheim sont directeurs.

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Un diamant bleu de près de 30 carats est découvert en Afrique du Sud

Target ouvrira de nouveaux magasins au Canada en 2014, dont un Québec

La compagnie minière Petra Diamonds Ltd. a extrait un diamant brut de 29,6 carats de sa mine Cullinan en Afrique du Sud. Petra a décrit la pierre comme étant d’une saturation, d’un ton et d’une clarté exceptionnels. Depuis qu’elle a acquis la mine en 2008, quatre gros diamants bleus en ont été extraits, dont trois se sont vendus à plus de 8 millions de dollars. Le plus gros d’entre eux était de 25,5 carats et avait été acquis pour la somme de 16,9 millions de dollars l’an dernier.accessible et dynamique.

Au cours de l’année 2014, neuf nouveaux magasins Target verront le jour dans cinq provinces. Suivant l’ouverture de trois magasins à Toronto, Edmonton et Victoria au printemps, Target poursuivra ses activités lors de la saison estivale à Mississauga, Barrie et Candiac, puis à l’automne dans les villes de St. Laurent, Mississauga – pour une seconde fois en 2014 – et Winnipeg. Employant une moyenne de 150 personnes pour chacun de ces nouveaux magasins, environ 1350 nouveaux emplois seront ainsi créés. Cette annonce suivait la nouvelle selon laquelle le géant basé à Minneapolis prévoyait le licenciement de 475 travailleurs, principalement à son siège social, et qu’il laisserait 700 postes vacants. L’an dernier, Target a ouvert 124 magasins au Canada et incluant les ouvertures prévues cette année, ce nombre sera porté à 133.

Diamant bleu de 29,6 carats de la mine Cullinan

Swatch gagne sa cause contre Tiffany & Co. La cour des Pays-Bas a tranché en faveur du Groupe Swatch dans la bataille de plusieurs millions de dollars qui l’opposait à Tiffany & Co. Le Netherlands Arbitration Institute (NAI) a ordonné à Tiffany & Co. de payer 402 millions de francs suisses (449,5 millions de dollars) au groupe Swatch en dommages et intérêts ainsi qu’en frais de justice. En septembre 2011, le groupe Swatch annonçait publiquement qu’il mettait fin à son partenariat avec Tiffany & Co. pour « entraves systématiques qui bloquent et retardent le développement de l’entreprise ». Le groupe Swatch avait développé, fabriqué et distribué depuis décembre 2007 des montres de la marque Tiffany & Co. Ces montres étaient vendues en magasin et chez les détaillants indépendants partout dans le monde.

Les stylos Quincy Jones, nouveautés chez Montegrappa Montegrappa est fière d’annoncer la collection officielle autorisée des stylos honorant le musicien Quincy Jones. Légende vivante, Quincy Jones a participé depuis plus de 60 ans à une multitude de projets et a contribué à l’évolution de la musique populaire des années 50 jusqu’à notre époque. Le stylo édition limitée Quincy Jones de Montegrappa est adapté à un des artistes les plus influents des six dernières décennies et conçu pour vous inspirer à écrire, créer… et peut-être même à composer. Sur le dessus du capuchon, on trouve son logo personnel, un « Q » gravé et rehaussé de couleur. Le corps texturé est en carbone noir et accentué au centre et aux pointes d’anneaux de résine multicolores aux motifs de marbre. Le clip moderne et lisse est fabriqué de laiton et sur la pointe, une petite pièce ronde unique à Montegrappa facilite le mouvement quand on l’insère et le retire de la poche. Suivant le thème musical, le corps du stylo se termine en cône en forme de haut-parleur. Pour le stylo à bille et à encre, la signature de Quincy Jones est gravée sur le support de pointe, alors que sur le stylo à plume, la signature de l’artiste est gravée sur la plume. Montegrappa produira une édition limitée de 1933 stylos à plume, 1933 stylos à bille et 1933 stylos à encre, tous en fibre de carbone. Quincy Jones, et le stylo Montegrappa Quincy Jones édition limitée

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Thomas Sabo, collection Karma

Georgia May Jagger, ambassadrice de la saison printemps-été de Thomas Sabo Lors du lancement de la saison printemps-été 2014, Thomas Sabo, fondateur de la marque qui porte son nom, était accompagné de l’ambassadrice Georgia May Jagger, fille du très célèbre Mick Jagger. Pendant l’événement, qui avait lieu au London’s Café Royal Hotel, on a célébré la sortie de la collection Karma, des bijoux qui reflètent l’énergie positive, la joie de vivre et la fortune. THOMAS SABO Karma Beads propose une sélection de 72 breloques qui s’agencent aux collections Glam & Soul et Rebel at Heart. Ornés de motifs, de pierres et de perles, ces petits bijoux accompagnent la « roue du Karma », symbolisant la paix intérieure et l’équilibre. De plus, la compagnie a conçu de nouveaux colliers, bracelets et boucles d’oreille créoles qui offrent une multitude de possibilités. Disponibles depuis janvier, les collections printemps-été 2014 en argent sterling sauront ajouter une touche d’élégance et révéler la personnalité de ceux qui porteront les bijoux Thomas Sabo.

Georgia May Jagger et Thomas Sabo

Pantone, couleurs printemps 2014. Photo : Pantone

Les couleurs pastel ont la cote ce printemps Autre tendance à surveiller ce printemps : les tons pastel qui reviennent en force! Les trois couleurs à l’extrémité de la palette Pantone – Placid Blue, Violet Tulip et Hemlock – s’adaptent à tous les autres tons du spectre grâce à leur versatilité. Sand et Paloma, les neutres, viennent créer un équilibre. Cayenne ajoute une touche de piquant quand on l’agence aux neutres et augmente la vibrance quand il est mélangé avec Freesia. Inspiré des nuances des fleurs tropicales, Celosia Orange procure une teinte optimiste et spontanée. La palette se conclut avec Radiant Orchid, la couleur de l’année 2014 et Dazzling Blue, deux couleurs qui rehaussent les teintes Violet Tulip et Placid Blue. Ce mauve soutenu et ce bleu électrisant sont les parfaits compagnons des pastels et ajoutent une touche de confiance et de vivacité quand ils sont apposés à d’autres couleurs foncées. Alors, pourquoi ne pas les agencer en portant plusieurs bagues sur un même doigt!

Hera, bagues de la collection « Cocktail Stax », argent 925

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Joolz - Bar à Bijoux :

pour un menu des marques les plus demandées

Caressant l’idée d’offrir aux adeptes de la mode une adresse incontournable et de procurer une ambiance d’achat hors pair, c’est d’abord et avant tout l’envie de créer un concept unique à Montréal qui est venue animer Lydia Mamane dans le projet d’ouverture de sa bijouterie. Située au 4916, rue Sherbrooke Ouest, en plein cœur du village Victoria de Westmount, Joolz – Bar à Bijoux se veut un endroit pour découvrir des bijoux tendance dans une atmosphère somptueuse. par Véronique Dubé

photos : Avi Tanny

CJ en français

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Le nouveau consommateur Au cours des dernières années, Lydia Mamane a observé des changements dans le comportement des consommateurs, elle qui cumule près de 25 ans d’expérience chez Doucet Latendresse. L’accès à l’information, les envois de masse par courriel, les médias sociaux, etc. sont tous des phénomènes récents qui ont modifié la façon d’acheter des gens. « Lorsque les clients découvrent un commerce où le personnel est en mesure de les écouter, de bien cerner leurs besoins, de leur offrir des solutions qui dépassent leurs attentes, ils reviennent vous voir. Je veux me concentrer sur les dernières tendances et offrir à mes clients des produits qui leur ressemblent », dit Lydia. L’expérience d’achat est devenue le mot d’ordre qui allait la guider dans son aventure. De ce fait, il était important pour la propriétaire de concevoir une boutique attirante, sans toutefois effrayer les clients. « Je ne veux pas que les gens pensent que parce que l’endroit est trendy, c’est cher. L’idée derrière tout ça, c’est aussi de pouvoir s’offrir une petite gâterie sans culpabiliser. Nous vendons des articles qui coûtent 30$ – explique Lydia en pointant les bracelets Ops!, des bracelets tennis aux couleurs de l’arc-en-ciel ornés de zircons – tout comme des bagues à diamants et des montres. » Plus que jamais, la vente au détail est une affaire de séduction et de fidélisation où l’approche client a pris le dessus sur l’approche produit. On cherche davantage à établir une relation avec la clientèle.

L’ambiance L’atmosphère chic qui règne chez Joolz – Bar à Bijoux et le souci du détail accordé à la décoration témoignent du bon goût et de la personnalité de la propriétaire. « Quelle femme n’aime pas les imprimés animaux? les Christian Louboutin? Toutes les femmes ont ce petit côté coquet. Ici, elles entrent, font le tour des comptoirs, regardent les vitrines; elles s’assoient au bar, enlèvent leur manteau, déposent leur sac à main. Nous voulons qu’elles se sentent importantes. Elles peuvent prendre le temps de s’arrêter et de se faire plaisir. Et nous sommes là pour les assister », dit Lydia. Tout est pensé : vitrines somptueusement encadrées, luxueux revêtements muraux satinés et capitonnés, élégant foyer, imposant tableau d’une jeune fiancée, présentoirs originaux, appui-bras à imprimé félin et confortables bancs. Joolz – Bar à Bijoux reflète l’image des boutiques de Beverly Hills. « C’est jeune, c’est cool, et ça attire l’attention » soutient Patricia Rotschild, spécialiste en design et en marketing pour Joolz – Bar à Bijoux.

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Les produits Les marques ont pris du terrain et dominent maintenant le domaine de la bijouterie; un fait auquel doivent s’adapter les propriétaires de bijouteries pour répondre aux besoins de leurs clients. Souhaitant offrir à sa clientèle des marques connues comme Hugo Boss, Swarovski et Italgem, Lydia a aussi voulu faire une place aux collections émergentes de Honora, Ops!, Phillip Gavriel et Bcouture. « Chez Joolz, nous avons des bijoux qui font ressortir la beauté des pierres, des perles ou d’un style en particulier. C’est important pour moi que nos clients reviennent parce qu’ils savent que chez Joolz, ils trouveront la pièce parfaite, celle qui créée un « Wow! », que ce soit pour un cadeau ou pour eux-mêmes », souligne Lydia. Les bijoux de la boutique sont destinés aux fashionistas de tous les âges. Lors de l’ouverture de Joolz – Bar à Bijoux, qui a eu lieu le 5 décembre dernier, les invités ont été généreusement reçus aux cocktails, sushis et horsd’œuvre. Une portion des recettes a été remise à la fondation Giant Steps/À pas de géant Montréal pour les enfants autistes. Le fils de Lydia a fréquenté l’école de la fondation pendant dix ans. Christina Smith, la conseillère de l’arrondissement de Westmount, était présente ainsi que The Big Blue Hug, qui a exposé des pièces d’art inspirées par Ellis afin de venir en aide aux enfants autistes. Grâce au concept de sa boutique, qui se veut à la fois une expérience d’achat unique et un endroit pour venir découvrir les tendances en matière de bijoux, on n’oublie pas que le service à la clientèle est d’une importance capitale. Une approche relationnelle équilibrée, où on se concentre sur ce qui se passe dans la tête du client, dans la tête des fashionistas! CJ

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MyJewelryBox.com diamond heart pendant necklace 1/10 ctw in 10k white gold with chain

Feature

Digital deals

Online shopping adds a new layer to modern retailing. by Liza Marley

RETAIL HAS GONE TO THE NEXT LEVEL in a culture that has come to embrace online shopping. It’s not all about the brick-and-mortar store any more, it’s about reputation, trust and value. While there is still a strong market for the in-store experience, online retailing is enjoying mass acceptance. The Internet has matured, the shopper has become savvy, and a healthy play between online and brick-and-mortar retailing is the new norm. “This generation – the Millennials – they’re growing up with a smartphone in their pocket,” explains Mark Keeney, vice president of marketing for Ritani. com. “They don’t just want online shopping, they expect it.” And he’s right. It’s not just the Millennials though. Online shopping is gaining acceptance through the mainstream. Society has embraced the technology because it gives instant gratification; it has created a culture where answers are at our fingertips and time no longer imposes limitations. We don’t have to wait for stores to open. We don’t have to invest time visiting multiple locations to comparison shop and we certainly don’t have to inconvenience ourselves to enjoy shopping. “My customer could be shopping in pajamas at midnight – could be shopping 20 of my competitors,” says David Mamane, CEO of the online jewellery store MyJewelryBox.com. “Competition is ferocious. Competition, it’s a click away.” Online retailers have a variety of tools to get their website on a potential client’s screen. “Finding qualified shoppers and building brand recognition,” Keeney explains, is very important. The marketing strategy can be to utilize various websites, paid channels, PR and press releases, explains Brian Watkins, president of Ritani.com. And the path that leads to a website has a digital trail so that merchants can see where the traffic is coming from and fine-tune it to their benefit.

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But Mamane warns that what may work for a while has the potential to eventually stop. When Google changes its search algorithm, which is several hundred times per year, your website may stop coming up high in a search. A website that was once bringing in a lot of traffic may all of a sudden shut down and you would lose a great tool. Keeping consistency is tricky. Unlike a store at the mall that merchandises to a shopper as they pass by, creating website traffic can be difficult – or expensive – but is essential to achieving success. However, getting a shopper to the website is only half the battle. Retaining that client and converting them from browsing to buying takes a lot of work on the part of the online retailer. “You need a clean, fast site,” explains Mamane. “You need to be less expensive than brick-andmortar stores. You need trust and credibility.” Online retailers have to create a shopping experience that replaces the in-store experience of browsing, touching, and trying on of the product. This also includes the tactile involvement with the merchandise and the personal relationship with the sales person – the exchange of information, the questions being answered, and an education about the product. Mamane finds video to be an essential part of his website. Short videos that connect with the shopper, answer questions, and provide information empower the shopper to make the purchase.

Ritani diamond micropavé band engagement ring

MyJewelryBox.com premium wood diamond engagement ring box

But the purchase isn’t complete until the product is delivered and handled. The sale may be finished with a click of the enter button, but Mamane says the key to the success of online retailing is to remove the risk to the purchaser by offering an unconditional money back guarantee. If it’s not what the buyer expects, they can’t be stuck with the merchandise; otherwise it ruins their comfort level with making an online purchase. Mamane notes that MyJewelryBox.com has the unconditional return policy “plastered everywhere.” In developing the experience for shoppers who visit Ritani.com, the company found it beneficial to integrate the online and in-person experience, giving the option of the purchase to either be shipped to the home or to a local independent retailer. The same no-risk guarantee is in place – purchasers can walk away with a full refund if they’re not completely satisfied with their goods, whether they change their mind at the store when they’re picking it up or whether they want to ship it back from home. However, Watkins explains, because they’re picking up in store, if, for whatever reason, the customer doesn’t complete the purchase, the jeweller still has the opportunity to complete the sale with different merchandise. One area where the traditional stores simply can’t compete, explains Watkins, is the extensive amount of merchandise that can be offered on a website. “A lot of brick-and-mortar retailers simply can’t make a large enough investment to compete.” And with conflicting overhead, online retailers are able to achieve a much lower price point. While online shopping is certainly being embraced, it doesn’t come without risk. The online retailer has to remove as much of that risk from the purchaser as possible to make the purchaser comfortable. They also have to protect themselves from hackers, fraud and loss. “The privacy and security issues far exceed brick-and-mortar stores,” says Mamane. “Privacy and protection of credit card details, it doesn’t get more dangerous than that.” He explains that MyJewelryBox.com – as all online retailers – has to undergo PCI compliance annually. PCI – Payment Card Industry – Compliance is essentially data security. It ensures that when a purchaser hands over their personal information and online payment, that their information is safe and secure. According to the PCI Compliance Guide (pcicomplianceguide.org) it is a “set of requirements designed to ensure that ALL companies that process, store or transmit credit card information maintain a secure environment.” The fines for noncompliance are quite hefty.

Beyond secure purchase protocols, online retailers have to protect their clients against fraud. “We have to walk away from orders we are not comfortable with,” says Mamane. “It’s a straight loss to our bottom line, but it’s not an enormous factor.” And then there is mail fraud and theft. Mamane has seen people attempt to swap out the stones in a piece of jewellery and then try to return it. Utilizing a process of recording or having a third party to witness all parcels being sealed for shipping and all parcels being opened for returns is necessary. The online retailer hasn’t replaced brick-and-mortar stores. Although Mamane says that online retailers saw better sales than brick-and-mortar stores this past holiday season, it’s important to not forget about the browsers and those spontaneous purchases. There are a lot of people that feel connected to their jeweller – and some jewellers enjoy a stronghold within their community. While some people don’t know what they want until they try on a piece, others are looking for guidance. Watkins emphasizes the need for that trusted relationship. Building rapport, he explains, is important to seeing repeat business. While Ritani.com can provide that with their in-store merchandise pick-up, they also employ live chat and online operators that add the human element to the online experience. But for some, that lack of human element is exactly why they choose the online shopping experience. They don’t want any pressure or pitches, they know what they want and their only interest is in the best deal. They may have gone into a brick-and-mortar store to do their research, but then they decided to head online for a digital deal. It’s not just small purchases either – confidence is strong and Mamane sees moderate as well as high-priced items selling well. Essentially, explains Watkins, “retail is changing. People don’t think ‘online/ offline,’ they just think about buying.” CJ

MyJewelryBox.com 1ct princess cut diamond engagement ring and matching wedding band set in 10k white gold

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Ring leader

Feature

Standing out in the crowded bridal market. by Sarah B. Hood

THE LONGSTANDING TRADITION of purchasing engagement rings and wedding bands has changed. Once, either a man would surprise his fiancée with an engagement ring or a couple would pick out their favourite together, after trying on a few lovely things at their jeweller of choice. These days, couples do much of the shopping before they set foot in a store, and the jeweller who wants to be noticed in the bridal market needs to be on top of the new rules of ring-buying. Weddingbells magazine’s 2013 reader survey indicates that the average Canadian couple expects to spend $4,200 on an engagement ring and $2,585 on wedding bands, and they also plan to spend $525 on other jewellery, such as a special pair of earrings or a necklace for the bride and cufflinks or a watch for the groom. With engagement rings, Socrates Reppas, owner of Marquis Jewellers in Toronto (multiple Excellence in Design Award winner), is seeing a lot of demand for large centre stones surrounded by a halo of smaller stones. But the only constant in these trends is their changeability, he says. “A few years back it was marquis, in a big way; right now they’re not popular at all,” he says. “The last few years, the princess cut was very, very hot; now it’s the cushion cut.” According to The Knot’s annual survey of U.S. trends, in 2013, 55 per cent of engagement rings were round, followed by princess cut (28 per cent) and cushion cut (5 per cent), with the average centre diamond weighing in at 1.1 carats. As for choice of metals, “platinum has truly made a comeback,” says Maren Rosen, vice president of merchandising for bridal and jewellery at Stuller, Inc. “White gold has been popular, but I think that trendy girls are going for rose and yellow; I think they will be strong in bridal.” Beyond the trends of the moment, there are big changes in the way couples are buying their wedding jewellery. In the first place, they’re doing a lot of research before they ever approach a bricks-and-mortar shop. Much of it will be done on a mobile device (The Knot estimates 63 per cent) so any jeweller whose website isn’t easy to navigate on an iPhone is losing business without realizing it.

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Stuller 14k round-shape semi mount engagement ring, shown with 1.5 ct center (sold separately), $1,975

“You have to know what you’re talking about when people come in,” says Reppas. “You have to be educated about the product you’re going to sell, because right now the consumer is very knowledgeable. The consumer is asking a lot of questions, and if you’re not prepared to answer those questions, you’ve lost a sale.” More than ever, celebrity style is driving what customers are looking for. “They see what people wear on the red carpets, and they ask ‘Do you have something like that?” says Reppas. “And little do they know, that it’s about $200,000.” Weddingbells reports that about one quarter of Canadian couples included a DIY element in their plans in 2102; in 2013, the proportion had risen to about half, and ring design is one of the elements that couples are eager to tackle. To accommodate this market, Stuller now offers a custom design software program that makes it easy for couples to design their own rings. “Our retailers are buying it and putting it in-store to allow the retailer to design it on the spot with the consumer,” says Rosen. “The retailer is able to look like the hero because they can design this beautiful ring on the spot with the customers. It’s all virtual inventory; with a few ring sales, you pay off the program.” Finally, women have always had some say in choosing wedding jewellery (Weddingbells says 89 per cent of brides had some input in 2013), but now, “a lot of women choose their own rings, and their fiancé pays for it,” says Reppas. There will always be weddings, but no two are ever exactly alike. To stay ahead of the bridal market, Reppas says, “You have to have something different from anybody else.” “It’s about the Millennials coming in and being able to express themselves,” says Rosen. “We’re really trying to embrace new tools, designs and flexibilities, and I think that’s really critical for the future of bridal.” CJ

Stuller 14k pear-shaped, halo-styled engagement ring mounting, shown with diamonds and aquamarine (both sold separately), $653 (mounting only)

Marquis Jewellers engagement ring with 1.22ct yellow diamond and white diamonds totaling 0.82cts set in platinum; designed by Socrates Reppas, $16,500

Marquis Jewellers engagement ring with 2.05ct emerald-cut middle stone, two side stones totaling 0.75cts and small diamonds totaling 0.30cts set in platinum; designed by Socrates Reppas, $24,950

Stuller 14k cushion-shape semi-mount, 3/4 ct center 5x5mm) sold separately, $3,066

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Feature

2014 SIHH

In with the old by Maya Akbay

A new and exciting watch season kicked off with SIHH 2014 this past January in Geneva. Sixteen of the world’s most renowned and prestigious watch names were under pressure to outshine each other with their latest product in a span of only four days.

Since 1991, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) has established its status as a landmark event for fine watch enthusiasts. This has been the place where watchmakers, designers and admirers come together to share their love of fine watchmaking. This year’s event, which ran from January 20 to 24, 2014, took place in a decked out Palexpo Conference Centre with showcases from 16 brands, which mainly included players from the Richemont Group, like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, IWC and Montblanc. Some of the highlights were IWC’s revamp and relaunch of the Aquatimer diving watch line (with a display of suspended life-sized hammerhead

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sharks!), A. Lange & Sohne’s big reveal of the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna, Parmigiani’s Metrographe collection, and of course, Cartier’s Calibre Diver. Van Cleef & Arpels gave visitors a glimpse of the sky with the Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication timepiece, a miniature representation of the movement of all six planets around the sun and 396 separate parts to accurately depict their positioning. From Cartier to Lange & Sohne, there was an overall trend of reviving old, classic models with slight tweaks and new materials. SIHH 2014 raised the bar for what’s to come and showed, yet again, why these brands are the best at what they do. CJ

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” with solid bronze case, front & back view

Piaget Limelight Blooming Rose with 269 grain-set diamonds, powered by Piaget 56P movement

Greubel Forsey Platinum GMT, 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination against a platinum backdrop

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Feature

Richard Mille RM 07-01 Ladies in ATZ white ceramic and red gold

Richard Mille RM61-01 Yohan Blake A. Lange & S旦hne 1815 Tourbillon in platinum

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Richard Mille RM 50-01 Lotus F1 Team Romain Grosjean

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A diamond in the rough Company Profile

When it comes to the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, coloured stones, and pearls, GIA is definitely the name that comes to mind first. by Irina Lytchak

ESTABLISHED IN 1931, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is a nonprofit institute that has led the way as the go-to source for knowledge, standards, and education concerning gems and jewellery. Not only did the company establish the widely used 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading SystemTM in the 1950s, GIA also offers top quality education courses for students around the world who are interested in gemmology and jewellery design.

A valuable member

Bev Hori, GIA’s chief learning officer and vice president of education

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We spoke with Bev Hori, GIA’s chief learning officer and vice president of education, to learn more about GIA’s latest developments, new initiatives, and the Institute’s relationship with the Canadian market. “Canada is an important consumer market in the gem and jewellery industry,” says Hori. “And it’s a source of diamonds.” At the moment, GIA has active alumni chapters in regions throughout the country, including Ontario, Quebec and British Columbia. And most recently, a secondary diamond industry with cutting and polishing plants has even been set up in the Northwest Territories. When it comes to her role at GIA, Hori actually worked as an instructor for the Institute earlier in her career and returned to the Institute in 2010 to head its global education efforts. Prior to rejoining GIA, Hori spent nine years with the Seattle-based Ben Bridge Jewelers, most recently as vice president of education. There, she developed the Ben Bridge Knowledge Center and a learning management system with e-tools to train sales associates at more than 70 stores in 12 states. She was also involved in corporate social responsibility initiatives and served on the board of directors for a number of industry organizations. Coming back to GIA, she brought along with her a massive amount of new knowledge and expertise in the industry. “I enjoy working with students and staff from around the world who have a common passion for discovering the world inside gems and for the art of jewellery design and manufacturing,” she says. “At GIA, you really get a sense that people feel fulfilled by their work and are driven by our mission of serving the public. I also am lucky in that I meet and work with a diverse range of people each day, and face a new set of challenges and discoveries.” Today, GIA is responsible for protecting the public’s trust in the global gem and jewellery industry by serving as an unbiased, third-party evaluator of gemstone quality says Hori. “[GIA] helps ensure consumer trust in the industry, which in turn, benefits the trade,” she adds. “Throughout its 83-year history, the Institute’s mission to ensure the public trust in gems and jewellery has remained at the center of all its activities.”

Educational efforts While the Institute may hold a reputation of being one of the best educators in the global gems and jewellery industry, this status was a result of GIA’s efforts in observing the needs of its consumers. Over the past year, Hori says the Institute has continued to dedicate itself to further its mission of educating the public about the industry. These efforts include revamping the company’s website, which now allows both consumers and members of the trade to easily access information ranging from basic diamond buying tips to in-depth articles from Gems & Gemology, GIA’s peerreviewed quarterly scientific journal. Another development includes GemKids, an interactive site geared toward students ages nine to 12. The site aims to help the children learn about gemmology and geology in a fun and engaging way, according to Hori.

Global reach Apart from the digital world, GIA’s recent developments also include expanded beneficiation efforts on an international level. This comes as no surprise since the company employs more than 2,000 people throughout the world. Most recently, GIA made its mark in Africa as part of the seventh annual Africa Education Week in Johannesburg. The Institute introduced more than 1,000 African students to gem and jewellery education opportunities at the Career Indaba trade show. In addition to this, Hori says that GIA signed a Memo of Understanding (MoU) with The Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory at the Nelson Mandela Foundation to provide four elementary schools in South Africa with Mandela Day Libraries; two were dedicated in February. The focus behind this initiative is to bridge the gap in literacy and reading proficiency throughout schools in Africa.

Future initiatives Moving forward, the GIA team shows no sign of slowing down, especially when it comes to its mission of ensuring the public trust in gems and jewellery. Hori says that some of the plans in the near future include further development of GIA’s Jewelry Career Fairs around the world, expanded education offerings and a continued focus on gemmological research. This year, the Institute will join the heart of New York’s diamond district by relocating its laboratory and campus to the International Gem Tower on 47th Street. The laboratory in Mumbai is also under expansion, with plans to double its facilities and hire more staff to meet the growing demand for lab services. One thing is for sure, and that is the fact that GIA owes much of its success to the people that stand behind the name. “Our staff’s and students’ passion for gems and jewellery is evident as you walk through the Institute’s hallways each and every day,” says Hori. “From our researchers to our instructors to our museum curators, GIA’s staff devotes themselves to their work in a way that is both inspiring and appreciated.” CJ

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2/13/14 6:57 AM

2013 Annual Crime Report

Jewellers Vigilance Part 1

Report prepared by Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst (This is Part One of our summary of JVC’s annual crime report. Part Two will run in the May/June 2014 issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine.)

ALL LOSSES/EVENTS I. DOLLAR AMOUNT OF LOSSES AND NUMBER OF INCIDENTS Dollars 2013 2012 Dollars # incidents CATEGORY # incidents $470,251.00 9 Break & Enter 14 $1,743,575.00 $3,619,988.00 30 Robbery 35 $6,916,253.00 $1,142,147.71 61 Theft 79 $5,888,459.87 $5,232,386.71 100 Totals 128 $14,548,287.87 Available data on all crime categories indicates a 64.14 per cent decrease in dollar losses and a 21.88 per cent decrease in criminal events. II. INCIDENT PERCENTAGE BREAKDOWN

IN 2013, THE TOTAL DOLLAR LOSSES FROM CRIMES against jewellery firms in Canada, reported to JVC, decreased from $14.5 million in 2012 to $5.2 million, a decrease of 64.14 per cent. The total number of crimes that were reported to JVC decreased from 128 to 100, a decrease of 21.88 per cent. JVC does not capture internal theft numbers in its database. Criminologists and other learned individuals in Canada suggest internal crime contributes an additional 30 per cent to losses suffered by jewellers. Significant trends or changes in 2013 include: • The number of incidents of off-premises attacks, primarily against traveling salespersons, declined 50 per cent, the lowest total since the 1980s. Major reasons for the decline in off-premises attacks are a significant decrease in the number of salespersons on the road due to the economy and the number of salespersons using security services to move the product. • The number of on-premises robberies, primarily of retail jewellers, decreased by 10 per cent from the previous year and dollar losses decreased 60.8 per cent. However, although there is a decrease in the number of incidents, the percentage of violence and the use of guns have increased. An alarming trend. • There were 38 Grab and Run losses at retail jewellers in 2013. In 2012, JVC received reports of 47 Grab and Run incidents, a decrease of 19 per cent (Ontario and British Columbia were the most active provinces). JVC believes this number is probably higher as many jewellers do not report it to JVC or even the police. • There were 14 arrests in 2013 of suspects who committed crimes against the jewellery industry. • When loss prevention is working well it is almost invisible. JVC believes the significant decrease in jewellery crime is partly due to the increased awareness on the part of jewellers as well as a greater focus on jewellery crime on the part of police. A survey conducted by JVC indicated a number of jewellers are using JVC alerts, articles and manual to train staff. JVC, with the assistance of our partner Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. arranged for some law enforcement personal to attend jewellery security seminars and courses in an effort to increase focus on jewellery crime investigations.

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CATEGORY Robbery Break and Enter Theft

2012 27.34% 10.9% 61.7%

2013 30% 9% 61%

Robbery – Taking of property by use of force or fear. Break & Enter – Entering premises after closing with intent to commit a crime. Includes hiding in a jewellery location, taking product and breaking out after closing. Theft – Taking of property without force or fear. Includes crimes such as cheque and credit card fraud, distraction crimes, diamond switches, sneak thefts and shipping losses that present evidence of criminal activity. III. ROBBERY A. Number of Robbery Events The number of robberies in 2013 decreased by 14.2 per cent. There were 35 robberies reported to JVC in 2012 compared to 30 in 2013. B. Robbery Dollar Losses Robbery dollar losses deceased by 42.8 per cent percent compared to 2013. Losses for 2013 were $3.6 million compared to $6.9 million for 2012. C. Most Active Province/Robbery – 7 provinces reported Ontario British Columbia Alberta Quebec Saskatchewan Nova Scotia Manitoba

2012 19 8 7 1 0 0 0

2013 14 5 4 2 1 1 3

Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta have the most jewellery outlets. Quebec has a large number but very few are members of JVC.

D. Most Active Month/Robbery in 2013 Most active: January, February and October with 4 each. Least active: June, August and December with 1 each. January is always one of the most active months for robbery. E. Most Active Time of Day/Robbery In 2013 the greatest number of robberies occurred between 12:00pm and 10:00pm. The second most active time of the day for a robbery to occur was between 10:00am and 11:00am. This stat remains constant each year. F. Most Active Days of Week/Robbery The most active day for robberies during 2013 was Friday followed closely by Wednesday. The least active day was Saturday. Saturday is always one of the least active days for robbery. G. Percentage of Robbery Events with a Gun/Violence Robbery Events with violence: 2012 20%

2013 36.6%

2013 30%

IV. HOMICIDE There were no Homicides reported to JVC during 2012 and 2013. Near Fatal Violent Incidents INCIDENTS Someone shot (not fatal) Shots fired (no one hit)

On four occasions, the glass in the front door was smashed to gain entry to the premises. On two occasions, a stolen vehicle was used to smash through the mall entrance door and then drive through the jewellery store doors. On two occasions, the back door was the point of entry. On one occasion, a window in the store was smashed to gain entry. POINT OF ENTRY Glass in front door smashed Stolen vehicle driven through front door Back door Store window broken

# occasions 4 2 2 1

VI. THEFT: $1,142,147.71 IN LOSSES IN 2013 Frequent theft methods:

Robbery Events with a gun: 2012 20%

MOST FREQUENT POINTS OF ENTRY

2012 0 2

2013 0 1

These near fatal incidents had the potential of becoming homicides. In October 2012, during an armed robbery at Erin Mills Town Centre in Mississauga Ontario, shots were fired in the store. One round barely missed a salesperson. In another incident in 2012, a retail storeowner and a family member were badly beaten with a hammer. The police investigator described the incident as the most violent beating they had seen on video. In January 2013, during an armed robbery in Hamilton, Ontario, three store staff members were beaten with a handgun and had to be taken to the hospital for treatment. In December 2013, again in Hamilton, a store staff member was beaten with a handgun during a robbery. There were numerous incidents in 2013 of victims of robberies being pepper sprayed. V. BREAK AND ENTER LOSSES - $470,251.00 A. Dollar losses for this category have been decreasing over the last three years. In 2011, losses totaled $1.8 million. In 2012, losses were $1.7 million and in 2013, losses reported to JVC totaled $470,251.00. The decrease from 2012 to 2013 is 72 per cent. B. Break and Enter Synopsis. The province of British Columbia led with four entries reported followed by Ontario with three and the provinces of Alberta and Quebec with one each.

TYPE OF THEFT Shop Theft Distraction Grab and Run Smash and Grab Traveling Salesperson Diamond Switching Transit/Other

incidents 5 12 38 3 0 1 0

dollars $19,499.00 $277,768.71 $311,330.00 $528,950.00 $0.00 $4,600.00 $0.00

These theft numbers do not included robberies. Those are reported in the robbery section. The theft losses in 2013 have decreased by 81 per cent from 2012. DAY TIME MONTH # incidents # incidents # incidents Monday 8 to 9am January 0 6 1 Tuesday 9 to 10am February 1 2 5 Wednesday 10 to 11am March 0 5 2 Thursday 11 to 12 noon April 0 6 3 Friday 12 to 1pm May 2 5 4 Saturday 1 to 2pm June 3 7 3 Sunday 2 to 3pm July 2 5 0 3 to 4pm August 9 4 4 to 5pm September 4 4 5 to 6pm October 8 4 6 to 7pm November 3 7 7 to 8pm December 1 1 8 to 9pm 1

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JVC Report

JVC’s police coalitions: The road to mutual trust and respect

The law enforcement community in Canada has always been a tightly closed-door group and it is difficult for people or companies that are not part of it to cross that thin blue line. JVC learned that early on in their Crime Prevention Program. by John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention

JVC'S CRIME ANALYST JANET LAMONT, on many occasions, would try and contact officers in different parts of the country attempting to obtain information on jewellery crimes or to offer our assistance in circulating information to the industry. She would be met with cold responses such as, "I don't know you," or "I've never heard of your company," or on many occasions, would never receive a response at all. JVC quickly realized that this obstacle had to be conquered to build a community partnership with the police. In order to make a large number of police investigators aware of our Crime Prevention Program, we focused on a major police conference that is held every spring in Western Canada and every fall in Eastern Canada – the Canada Robbery Seminars. JVC contacted the officer responsible for setting up the seminars and offered to act as a sponsor in return for an opportunity to make a presentation to the 150 or so officers attending. We offered to outline our program and network and suggest how we can help in police investigations concerning jewellery crimes. After a few years, the police began approaching us instead in order for JVC to help sponsor the seminar and we continued to do so. We also started to receive requests to help out in various ways in their investigations. Once we had built this relationship with robbery investigators and, with the assistance of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company (JMIC), our board of directors approved a Police Appreciation Award for officers that went above and beyond the call of duty when investigating a major jewellery crime. This award proved very useful in building a stronger relationship with police and in our last two presentations to Waterloo Regional Police and Durham Regional Police, the awards were presented to the officers at their department police commission meetings. The meetings were attended not only by commission members but also by senior officers and news media and were a true display of recognition for the officers in front of their peers. JVC continued to build its police relationship, and with financial assistance from Jewelers Mutual, we made it possible for law enforcement officers from different parts of the country to attend jewellery-related seminars in Canada as well as in the U.S. This effort also resulted in Canadian police making personal contacts with law enforcement officials across the border. JVC next approached one of our strongest law enforcement supporters,

York Regional Police, and managed to get one of its investigators to act as an advisor to the JVC board of directors. Detective Doug Bedford has since participated in JVC board meetings and provided excellent advice. One of his excellent initiatives was to have JVC develop a police-only database, which contains jewellery crime information accessible exclusively to the police. The general public knows that the police have their own database and in fact they do, but jewellery crime is buried in with many other occurrences. As an example, jewellery robberies and thefts are combined in a category that encompasses all types of retail robberies and thefts. Nonetheless, Det. Bedford’s proposed database has been able to provide police with jewelleryrelated crime information only, proving to be valuable not only to investigators but to police crime analysts as well. This brought JVC to the next stage in its plan to build community partnerships with the police. At the end of October of 2013, JVC sent out an invitation to all of the major police departments in the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) inviting them to attend a Jewellery Crime Prevention Coalition. The response, to say the least, was fantastic. The departments accepted without any hesitation at all. In several cases, they sent more than one officer. The program has come a long way from the days when our crime analyst received indifferent remarks to who we were and what we were trying to do. We have now reached a point of mutual respect and trust. October 28, 2013, JVC's crime analyst, director of crime prevention, and head of security for a major jewellery chain, met with senior police investigators and police crime analysts to openly discuss jewellery crime in the GTA and JVC's Crime Prevention Program. This was the birth of The Southern Ontario Crime Prevention Coalition. It was interesting to note that during this conversation, members of the police agreed that JVC was the catalyst for this program as well as for the police-only database, which would not have survived if a police agency took it on instead. Today, we have two other coalitions in the works in Vancouver and Calgary respectively, and plan for many more. When our Crime Prevention Program first started, we were taking one step forward and two steps back. Now, we are moving ahead in leaps and bounds and building a program that will serve our industry well into the future. CJ

Note: JVC provides names of security companies as a service to its members but JVC does not endorse any products, manufacturers or services and assumes no liability for the use of products or services mentioned in his article.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Not Just Any Diamond in the Rough

JVC’s 18th Annual Golf Tournament, Dinner & Silent Auction Join us and play the south course, which tested some of the world’s finest golfers during the 2002 Bell Canadian Open.

Monday, June 16, 2014 at the Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, Ontario

For more information, contact: Carla Adams 416-368-4840 or info@jewellersvigilance.ca

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

So, what goes into the watch restoration process?

Keeping Time

What goes into a watch restoration?

Timepiece restoration continues to be a growing trend. Consumers are holding onto sentimental timepieces and using the online market to purchase and restore watches for a profit. The greatest challenge is providing the consumer with a one-stop shop for all restoration services related to this niche market.

1. External components may require re-plating or polishing. It is important to plate a valuable item at least 10 micrometers for longevity. Polishing works best on stainless steel, solid silver, or gold casing and bracelets. In order to truly restore external components, a watchmaker must dismantle each piece, including individual bracelet links. Once each piece is polished, it must be cleaned and reassembled with care. 2. Internal movements will require a complete overhaul or CTR (complete technical review) regardless of whether the watch is working or not. Servicing a watch is about care, accuracy and longevity. A watchmaker will completely disassemble all component parts that make up the internal movement, clean them, lubricate them and reassemble them to working condition. A complex movement can be made up of 300 to 400 parts and can take up to five or six hours to complete. 3. Perhaps the most difficult restoration process is the restoration of a watch dial. Dials are all manufactured and painted using a variety of different methods. Unfortunately, a single method for restoration does not exist. Instead, the watchmaker is required to make an individual assessment and decide the best course of action. a. Starting off with a clean canvas is the first step to restoring a dial with a painted background and numerical markers. The dial, usually a metal piece, is cleaned by removing the paint with a paint stripper or by sandblasting. It must then be assessed for any corrosion or pitting on the base, which requires a polishing before new paint is applied. Once this is done, the base or main colour is airbrushed or powder-coated back onto the dial. b. Now the challenging part. Before cleaning off the dial, it should be scanned into a computer. Using graphic design software, the dial detail is re-drawn as close as possible to the original factory specs to match numerical markers and text. Once complete, a die is created just like the original factory markings for printing using a laser machine. Once a die is created, the image is imprinted on the airbrushed dial ensuring there is no grease or fingerprints prior to applying the paint and markings. This must be done with the utmost care, especially when aligning the dial. Once complete, the watch must be reassembled. 4. Once a watch is restored and reassembled, the next step is to ensure it passes its original factory specs; timekeeping and water resistance. It is important that the watchmaker not only has the equipment to do this but also understands the historical value of the watch.

How to select a service centre: 1. Choose a service centre that repairs all brands of watches and employs watchmakers who specialize in modern day watch repair and antique mechanical watch repairs. This is usually the best indicator of their ability to overhaul any timepiece. 2. Inquire as to whether the entire restoration process will take place in-house. This will help you save on time and costs (less shipping between subcontractors). More importantly, there is less of a chance of an important component being lost. 3. Be sure to check if the service centre follows any environmentally friendly practices.

by Kuldip Rupra

When accepting a restoration project, client education is the most important component. Once the client understands the process and level of care that’s required, they will be more inclined to accept the estimate (at times this can seem like “a lot “ for the end user) and the time it takes for repair. CJ Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute.

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Back to basics Feature

Wondering what bridal trends spring holds in store? Or what the hottest engagement ring styles are for the new season? We spoke with some of the biggest names in the game and found out for you. by Maya Akbay

SPRINGTIME. IT’S THE SEASON of fresh, fragrant flowers, longer days, and higher temperatures. It’s also the season of love. And there is no better way to celebrate love than with a beautiful wedding. Planning for a wedding takes a lot of effort and one of the most important elements of this celebrated ritual is the process involving the selection of the engagement and nuptial rings for the beautiful bride. And it looks like for this season, the ladies are favouring the classics.

Set in stone When it comes to the setting of the ring, it’s the classic Tiffany Setting that remains one of the most popular engagement ring styles of all time. This design made its debut in 1886 and quickly gained a large following all over the world. It was the first ring design to lift the solitaire diamond off the band, holding it with six claws, also known as the Tiffany mount, and maximizing the stone's natural radiance. Having a single stone engagement ring may still be a very prevalent choice among brides or brides-to-be but many women are also all about the side stones. Having a ring with a large diamond set in the center calls for smaller diamonds on the sides or around the center stone. Trinity rings, or trilogy rings, are three-stone diamond rings with three matching diamonds set horizontally in a row with the larger stone in the center and are a favourite among the ladies. Tiffany & Co. Legacy diamond rings in platinum

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The colour game While the predominant look for an engagement ring has been and continues to be a clear diamond set in either gold or platinum, many women are also venturing outside of their comfort zone to explore coloured stones. A top player in the industry, Maison Birks has established its Birks Blue Collection, which includes a pendant and stunning solitaire diamond earrings with a hint of blue, as a classic must-have when it comes to bridal jewellery wear. Another top choice are yellow diamonds, especially when it comes to the solitaire cut or something like Tiffany & Co.’s white diamond necklace with yellow diamond accents. The radiant colour and intensity of a yellow diamond makes it highly valued, says Wendy Eagan, group vice president of Tiffany & Co., as they “unleash an electrifying sparkle that can strike a deep emotional chord – worthy of being worn on one's wedding day.” It’s also important to note that the yellow diamond has long been associated with the idea of elegance, after being famously worn by Aubrey Hepburn in the iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

Birks Blue Collection solitaire round brilliant-cut diamond earrings set in 18k white gold with matching pendant; available with Birks Canadian diamonds

Tiffany & Co. Colors of Wonder ring with a 15.04 ct oval fancy vivid yellow diamond and white diamonds in a platinum setting

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The shape of love

Birks Square Phillips Collection pavé diamond engagement ring with emerald-cut diamond set in platinum; exclusively available with Birks Canadian diamond centre stone

Seeking perfection What qualities make an engagement ring the “perfect” one? According to Tiffany, it all comes down to the 4 C’s: cut, clarity, colour, and carat weight. Cut is the precise shape and positioning of a diamond, clarity measures the flawlessness of a diamond, colour refers to the precise scale of a diamond from D to Z, and the carat determines the weight of the stone. The selection and purchase of an engagement ring celebrates one of life's most important moments, “reflecting the love and commitment a couple has for one another,” says Eagan. “It is not only important to select a ring and diamond based on the popular 4 C's, but on the ‘presence’ as well.” “The perfect ring should reflect your personality and lifestyle,” says Francis Guindon, public relations manager for Maison Birks. From the classic Birks Nordic Light to the extravagant Birks Pure Desire, the company is proud to offer conflict-free diamonds mined exclusively in Canada, and this year, more than 95 per cent of their center stones are certified Canadian. For Ready Mounts, what makes a perfect ring is in the fine details and the quality. “The finishing on a ring is the most important part,” says Myslicki. “We will re-do a piece if we aren’t happy with it.”

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Tiffany, which is still the go-to name for many couples set on tying the knot, offers white diamonds in fancy shapes like the emerald cut, sumptuous oval, romantic heart, and elegant pear. These forms have been Tiffany’s ‘tour de force’ for more than a century. Each ring draws on a rich heritage of cuts used by Tiffany at various times in history and allows for the bride to express her individual style. The pieces are often designed with or without side stones and each one has a devoted following, making it an absolute must-have for a bride-to-be or a serious Tiffany enthusiast. Another prime option among many couples has been the Birks 1879 engagement ring, along with its matching wedding band. This piece has been one of the most popular rings from Maison Birks for several years now; it was inspired by the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship. The Birks 1879 Collection of diamond engagement rings proudly features Canadian diamonds and several styles adorned with a bezel set diamond on the gallery. The brand is proud to say that they track these diamonds from the rough crystal to the finished gem, assuring the pedigree and provenance of each one. For Ready Mounts Inc., a Canadian jewellery manufacturer priding itself on providing the most personalized service, there’s been a high demand for the halo style ring with diamonds down the shank. Diamonds have always been popular among brides, but this year sees “less metal and more diamonds,” says Michael Myslicki, division manager, designer and rapid prototyping specialist for Ready Mounts.

The Tiffany & Co. Setting engagement ring with diamond in six prongs

Period-inspired pieces

Top: Ready Mounts Inc. large oval pearl ring with halo; Bottom: Ready Mounts Inc. Jen wedding earrings with alexandrite

Left: Tiffany & Co. The Jean Schlumberger Rope engagement ring in 18k gold and platinum Right: Ready Mounts Inc. U-shaped eternity band

Grecian-themed and “period drama”-inspired weddings are on the rise this spring, with headpieces and vintage attire added in to complete the final ensembles. Antique-style engagement rings have made a big comeback, as Ready Mounts makes a point to incorporate the really old with the new when working on a lot of their designs. Myslicki says that jewelled headpieces have been a lot of brides’ favourites this year for their special day, along with extravagant chandelier-style earrings. The earrings contain a larger coloured stone, and usually come with diamonds and intricate detailing . “The Jean Schlumberger Rope Engagement Ring [from Tiffany’s] would be an ideal style for a Grecian wedding, with its intricate metal-work reminiscent of the fluidity of Ancient Grecian dress,” says Eagan. “But it’s still as bold and empowering as the once dominant Roman Empire. This ring featuring yellow gold rather than platinum more aptly reflects precious metals popular at that time. As for period drama inspired ceremonies, the Tiffany Legacy ring is a good fit with its opulent and Edwardian design, featuring a cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut diamond, surrounded by a frame of bead-set diamonds. The ring offers a sense of romanticism that depicting this era needs. Another collection that pays tribute to an era from the past is the Birks Square Phillips Collection, which was created as a tribute to the Montreal landmark that has been home to Maison Birks since 1894. “The line of bridal rings was inspired by the Gothic Revival style of the Anglican cathedral found on Square Phillips opposing the Birks building,” says Guindon. “Drawing from architecture motifs from the late 1800s, this collection makes use of the Whimsical Gothic detailing made popular during that era.” Ready Mounts has numerous styles that serve the vintage flair spring brides are looking for, from halo-style rings accented with a vintage filigree under basket, to rose gold diamond eternity rings, often used as borders on each side of an engagement ring. Ready Mounts rings are often accented with mill graining and filigree designs along the shank and under basket. Rose gold is big this year, along with antique-influenced engagement rings with fine detail work and engraved designs, says Myslicki. The Art Deco look has also made a comeback to weddings. Whether the bride and groom decide to go Art Deco or with a Greek-inspired theme, this season’s weddings will be capturing a time in history that holds a lot of significance for the happy couple. As for the piece de resistance – the ring itself – the favourites this spring will be all about an elegant combination of the modern with the vintage, all the while paying homage to heritage. One thing’s for sure: the classics are here to stay. CJ

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Designer Profile

A star in the making Above left: Shah Emily Noaman’s work station; Candy Coated Generosity lariat by 3SHAHS Jewellery

Toronto-based jewellery designer ventures outside the box when it comes to her creations. by Michael Riley

SHAH EMILY NOAMAN IS ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS. Whether it pertains to her jewellery line, 3SHAHS Jewellery, or the philanthropic work she is admired for, Noaman is an example of someone who has found success by paying attention to the little things. Noaman and her family are originally from Shiraz, one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia, located in the southwest part of what is now modern-day Iran. Today, it’s clear where the designer got her talents from. Not only was she born in a city fuelled by poetry, literature, great food and drink and beautiful gardens, she also took after her father, who plays multiple musical instruments and is a talented visual artist. In addition to that, Noaman believes that her mother Shahin, whom she calls her "Philosopher Queen," is one of the most enlightened, kind, and spiritually advanced women she has ever known. All these great parental qualities no doubt influenced Noaman but she always had an innate creativity, intellectual curiosity and a fierce desire to succeed. By the time she was 12, Noaman was determined to become a dentist but as the years went by, she started to dabble with jewellery-making and was instantly hooked. While honing her skills through pieces she would create for family and friends, Noaman went on to study business at the University of Toronto. After graduating however, she decided to go full-force with her number one passion – jewellery design – and that’s how 3SHAHS came into fruition in 2000. “While opening my businesses and developing my 3SHAHS brand, I had to tell fear to take a backseat so I can be in action,” says Noaman. “It was also important to surround myself with supportive and positive people." People always wonder about the etymology of the 3SHAHS name. The “3” (and subsequently the “SHA”) represent Noaman’s family trinity, which includes her sister, mother, and herself. It’s also interesting to note that

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"Shah" is Persian for "King." Noaman's personal veneration for the idea of gender equality prompted the latter part of the moniker. With a meaningful name in place, the young designer’s business began to blossom, expanding in sales and contacts and becoming synonymous with craftsmanship, daring and unique creativity, and a way to give back to the community. Noaman crafts her designs from an array of materials, ranging from semiprecious stones to freshwater pearls and mixed metals. All of the material is bought locally, usually from wholesalers at the larger trade shows in Toronto during the months of January and August. The collection includes rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, lariats, and the signature Flank Fetter (a decorative chain that clips onto the belt loops of a pant). Noaman has also created a series of men's pieces called Monde/Maard as well as a specific line just for pets called SHAH's Paws, which is no surprise coming from an avid animal lover. "Travel and nature inspire me the most," says Noaman. “Ideas for new jewellery combinations often come to me in my dreams. When I wake up, I can't wait to get to my workshop and make my visions come to life. I create my designs with love and positive energy." Depending on the piece the designer is working on, the whole process can take from 20 minutes to a few weeks. But apart from creating pieces on her own, she also custom designs for a number of clients. "It's delicately striking handmade jewellery,” says Eva Redpath, a fitness trainer and businesswoman living in Toronto. “Her custom designs enable you to express your unique style in accessories, exactly how you envisioned it." Back in 2010, Noaman custom designed and created a number of pieces for the House of Nonie Charity Fashion Show (in support of the Red Cross Canada), held by Calgary-based designer Nina Rahal-Kharey. Every one of

Metallic Melody necklace

Cosmic Migration necklace

Noaman’s creations specifically matched the dresses that were presented at the fundraiser’s catwalk. To further her humanitarian work, Noaman started up a venture called Keeping it Local about five years ago, which employs local talent to help her create unique pieces specifically in Toronto. Keeping it Local has prevented precious capital and various jobs from moving overseas and has helped give young people coming right out of school a chance to gain valuable hands-on work experience in the jewellery field and networking opportunities. By 2012, Noaman’s jewellery creations captured the attention of some big names, including Hollywood heavyweights Adrian Grenier and Emily Hampshire, who wore 3SHAHS for the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), as well as celebrity clients like Black Eyed Peas' Fergie, Fashion Television's Jeanne Beker, singer/songwriter Anjulie, and the members of the band 98 Degrees. The following year, Noaman fully shifted gears to working within the nonprofit sector and focusing more on designing her jewellery, boosting online sales, and expanding distribution across North America. As of today, the future looks bright for Noaman, who is set on launching a new line called Pura Vida SS14 Resort Collection, targeting the online market as well as retailers around the greater Toronto area. When it comes to young entrepreneurs who are just beginning their journey, Noaman offers these words of wisdom: "Perseverance is definitely essential to be successful, as great things often do not occur overnight. Believing in yourself is the key to life and to true self-fulfillment. As human beings, we can experience doubt and fear. I am no exception. Never let fear stop you." CJ Royal Velvet necklace

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Momentum is key

Help your staff maximize their selling experience by making a few small but very crucial modifications within the organization of your store’s displays. by Larry B. Johnson

WHILE VISITING A CLIENT’S STORE recently, I noticed a recurring problem the sales staff were having that reminded me of an example I learned (many) years ago in a college physics class when we were studying the laws of momentum. The example the professor used that day asked us to imagine an apple traveling up and down in a glass elevator. To a casual viewer outside of the elevator, the apple was in motion. To a rider inside the elevator, it was at rest. The moral – perception of movement lies in one’s point of view. Going back to my store visit the other day, the sales clerks were hard at work, going about their business as usual, helping interested shoppers decide on what pieces of jewellery would suit them best. In that effort, however, there were multiple examples of times when the momentum of the sales presentation was being interrupted. The smooth flow of the purchasing/selling experience was being halted for a variety of reasons and sales were the resulting casualty. In one instance, I watched a salesperson walk a customer back and forth along the line of bridal showcases to show the prospect their entire selection of halo-style engagement rings. The case displays were arranged by vendor, which made sense to the storeowner but not at all to the customer. In order to see all the halos the store had, the customer had to go from vendor to vendor display and then back again to compare styles in a prior case. Watching them move was like watching a tennis match. Then, I saw a salesperson leave the customer alone for a few minutes at the bridal showcases again while he went in search of tweezers to handle a loose diamond. Upon his return, he left again to get a 4C’s chart. While he was away the second time, the customers talked among themselves, looked around, checked their watches and ultimately did not buy. Finally, I watched another customer ask if the store offered any financing plan. “Yes, we certainly do!” was the enthusiastic answer from the salesperson. The customer then asked what the approximate payment would be on a ring if she used the financing over 24 months. The salesman did not know but volunteered to call the financing company and ask, and promptly left the floor to use the telephone. The problem in each of these instances was that the salesperson had become accustomed to these “sales momentum interruptions” and honestly, didn’t even notice them any longer. The customer however, was looking from their own fresh perspective and these delays and inefficiencies were each a complicating nuisance. They silently undermined the image of the salesperson and the store.

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On Display

What does a storeowner do? Ask your salespeople for their input on things that impede the flow of the sale and take action to fix them. (Hope that they are not so used to the problems that they don’t see them.) Spend some time watching the flow of the sales presentations being made on your floor. Watch for wasted motion by your salespeople. Watch for negative body language evolving from your customers. Watch for similarities in customer interactions when sales are ultimately lost. Try to come to work one day with “fresh eyes” and really see what is happening in your cases and on your floor. At the store in question that day, we fixed the problems. We reorganized the bridal case by style, not by vendor. We got all the sales tools needed to sell a diamond and put them in a convenient place within easy reach. We placed small signs with the approximate monthly payments for financing of different price points in the case. We gathered all the merchandise featured in the current flyer and consolidated it in a single showcase with a copy of the flyer for reference. Two weeks later, the results were in. Sales were up. The sales staff loved the bridal display reorganization and the sales aid placement. The financing signs were a hit. Sales from the flyer were strong. I am embarrassed to admit that I don’t remember much from college physics. I was an economics major and the natural sciences in any form were something I tried to avoid. I am sure, however, there is a colour chart in the back of my old physics text somewhere that illustrates how momentum is a powerful force to be understood and utilized. Recognize its place in the selling experience and let it work for you. CJ

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Canadian Jeweller Magazine through the Ages 135th Year Retrospective

To mark our upcoming 135th anniversary, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is taking a look back at the remarkable changes in the magazine and the jewellery world in the past 135 years. In our last issue, we examined the 1960s; here, we look at the 1970s and 1980s… by Irina Lytchak and Maya Akbay

1970s

THE

In history: Immortalized by films like Saturday Night Fever, this decade is best known for unleashing the disco era and some of the biggest and boldest fashion trends. The 70s were influenced by glam rock stars like David Bowie and pushed for fashion that included denim studded with rhinestones and flashy, sequined disco-wear. It was all about showing off as much flash as possible. In the meantime, elements of enamel and florals were found on retroinspired watches and funky rings, paying homage to the Bohemian lifestyle made popular during this decade. Women opted for large drop earrings, chunky and colourful bangles, as well as chokers or necklaces adorned with animal-inspired pendants, peace symbols and opals. The Hippie movement meant that jewellery during this time was also very nature-inspired. Both men and women were all about homemade jewellery; puka shells, mood rings and Native American-influenced pieces that featured a lot of turquoise were all the rage. Drawing inspiration from the East, this era also featured rich-coloured diamonds that were most likely found as accents on caftans and flared trousers. In the watch world, the 70s saw the debut of a new, high-tech gadget – the first ever quartz timepiece. This creation revolutionized the watch industry by improving accuracy and shock resistance. The decade also welcomed the first digital electronic watch, a Pulsar LED prototype that was developed by Hamilton Watch Company and Electro-Data. The watch was created by John Bergey, the head of Hamilton’s Pulsar division, who was inspired by a digital clock that Hamilton had produced for the 1968 science fiction classic 2001: A Space Odyssey.

Above: Cover for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, May 1970

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In the magazine: During the 70s, Canadian Jeweller started looking more like the magazines we see today. Featuring a colour cover and a model sporting large and bold rings, the May 1970 issue was all about a special focus on ring design, diamond engagement rings, and men’s jewellery. The magazine also included full-page, colour advertisements, which were now photographed rather than illustrated.

Clockwise from top left: Cultured pearl, coral, diamond and gold suite, circa 1970 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $3,000-$4,000); Moonstone, cultured pearl, turquoise and 18k gold brooch by Karl Stittgen, circa 1970 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $1,000-$1,200); ‘Chinese Dog’ estate bracelet featuring onyx, diamonds and emeralds set in 18k yellow gold, circa 1973 (Van Cleef & Arpels, $95,000); Ladies’ diamond and 18k white gold wristwatch by Universal Geneve, circa 1970 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $2,000-$3,000); Bucherer table watch featuring white enamel dial and hand-wound movement with 17 jewels (Carl F. Bucherer); "Sardane" estate bracelet featuring coral, carved horn, and ivory set in 18k yellow gold, circa 1974 (Van Cleef & Arpels, $55,000)

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135th Year Retrospective

1980s

THE

In history: The 80s was the decade that brought costume jewellery to the forefront in terms of everyday wear. From icons like Madonna to the girl-next-door type, women opted for large, faux-gold pieces in order to make a loud and bold statement. From oversized hoop earrings and large beaded necklaces, to neon jelly bracelets and big brooches, everything in this era was large, bold and over-the-top. In the early ‘80s, digital watches with metal bands were found on most people’s wrists. They lost some of their status later as dial watches rose in popularity by mid-decade. Leather straps returned as an option. Movado’s Museum watch became a status symbol of modernity with a sleek design and its iconic single round mark at twelve o'clock. After a new revival, the Tank watch by Cartier took the top spot of fashion icon, frequently seen on Cartier print advertisements. Rolex watches gained popularity after being featured on the prevalent television show Miami Vice while in teen culture, it was the vibrant plastic Swatch watches that were all the rage. Swatch first made a splash in Europe and reached North America by the middle of the decade. In the magazine: The 80s presented a time for Canadian Jeweller to continue on a path of big, bright and bold jewellery pieces as well as print style. The January 1980 issue heavily focused on trade show happenings around the world, with a special spotlight on the Spring Jewellery Buying Show and the year’s gift shows. The month also marked the debut of our first Gemmology column! CJ

Above: Cover for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, January 1980

Left to right: Bucherer automatic stainless steel watch with gold-plated bezel with tachymeter and leather strap, circa 1980 (Carl F. Bucherer); Ladies’ gold ‘Oyster Perpetual DateJust’ wristwatch by Rolex, circa 1987 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $2,000-$3,000); Quartz watch, circa 1981 (Hamilton Watch Company)

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One-of-a-kind Ziba Ziba (“Beautiful” in Persian) necklace and earrings featuring rare pear-shaped rubies and marquise diamonds, circa 1986 (Le Vian)

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Marketplace A DV ERT ISING

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd. • 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

YOUR METALS DEALER LETPRECIOUS US EARN YOUR TRUST Web: www.xau.ca

Canada

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We info@xau.ca guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Order your copy of our 100th Anniversary Catalog today! Over 600 pages of Tools and Supplies. catalog100@gessweincanada.com

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

3 1 7 A t t w e l l D r i v e , To r o n t o O N , M 9 W 5 C 1 Phone: 1-800-263-0106 fax:1-888-269-0106

http://www.xau.ca

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Email: info@xau.ca

www.gessweincanada.com

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.ca and www.goldrefiner.ca

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Web:www.refinegold.ca

E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com

A.B. MACHINERY Plastic Injectors New & Used

Laser Welders Mettler Scales (Legal) ABM Gold Melters New and Used Machinery BUY – SELL – TRADE

www.abmachinery.com

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CNC Gold Refining Inc Toll Free: (888) 901-8888

Tel: (514) 737-1660 Dealers and Fax: (514) 737-9335 9999

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refiners of Precious Metal Scrap Email: sales@abmachinery.com

Classified

While You Wait-Immediate Settlements Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys Check Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices • PALLADIUM • PLATINUM At: www.goldrefining.ca

• GOLD • YELLOW • WHITE • SILVADIUM • PINK • S-STEEL • GREEN • PRESETS ALLOYCO • STERLING21 Dundas • MOLDS Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7 INTERNATIONAL INC. • BRONZE • ALLOYS

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine Tel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500 Toll Free: 877-465 3497 E-mail:info@goldrefining.ca Web: www.goldrefining.ca CALL TOLL FREE 1-888-475-5384 Phone: 514-845-5384 • alloyco@alloyco.com • www.alloyco.com 55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

A DV ERT ISING

FOR SALE

Help Wanted

Edmonton Jewellery and

Watch Supply – wholesale company for sale. Products include clock/watch movements, batteries, watch crystals, wax patterns, gemstones, findings, packaging (bags, boxes), and displays. For more information, phone: 780-399-3188, or efhouse@ hotmail.com. Located at 10083-166 Street, Edmonton, Alberta. T5P 4Y1.

Jewellery Sales Person for custom/ retail store in Victoria BC. The skills and qualifications for this position include: • Selling custom work and finished jewellery as well as taking in repairs. • Operating computerized POS terminal. • Send and answer emails, upload pictures ect. • Basic knowledge of gems and diamonds is necessary. • Good communication skills are essential. Please contact us by email at: t1000w@hotmail.com

edmontonjewelleryandwatchsupply.com M A R C H /A P R I L 2 0 1 4

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Spring into action GONE ARE THE DAYS of the bone-chilling temperatures – thank goodness! In their place are the uplifting shades of spring. When it comes to your customers’ wardrobe and jewellery, pastel hues and floral designs set the tone for the season. Help your client play up her spring style with shades of baby blues, pinks and lime greens. Take any outfit from casual chic to elegant or professional with a jewelled clutch, polished pumps and jewellery pieces that add a dose of shine and sophistication. So don’t be afraid to embrace the essence of spring this year by opting for pieces that are light and fun, while still retaining the sophistication and grace that jewellery is known for. CJ

Style Council

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1. Smythe jacket, $495, available at Holt Renfrew 2. Caravelle New York silver ladies watch with 96 crystals, 43L167, $95 3. Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry Patras aquamarine bead necklace in 18k white gold, $1,500 4. D-ID jeans, $205, available at Holt Renfrew 5. Pandora sterling silver bracelet with sterling silver pave charms and clips in assortment of colours, $675 (approximately) 6. Manolo Blahnik BB pumps, $595, available at Holt Renfrew 7. Mindham Fine Jewellery rose quartz polished briolette with diamonds, $3,900 8. Roger Vivier clutch, $1,630, available at Holt Renfrew

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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15 9. Alexander Wang Rocco stud-bottom satchel bag in Peppermint, $995, available at Holt Renfrew 10. RED Valentino dress, $995, available at Holt Renfrew 11. ELLE Time “NEW JETLAG" Collection watch with sunray silver dial with rose gold & white ceramic bracelet, $279 12. Hera ‘Theya’ small pendant in 925 silver with turquoise and Mother-of-Pearl with 18” chain, $395 13. Prada sunglasses, $390, available at Holt Renfrew 14. Zeghani 14k rose gold ring featuring 0.99ctw round white diamonds and a 19.23ct Goldstone (ZR819), $3,000 15. Hillberg & Berk earrings, 14SSED03, $85 16. Gianvito Rossi sandals, $790, available at Holt Renfrew

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Last Word

Into the blue by Maya Akbay

THIS ONE-OF-A-KIND, HAUTE COUTURE ‘GLACIER’ NECKLACE by French mastermind Lorenz Baumer will have you lose yourself in the depth of its mesmerizing blue. Influenced by the shapes of mountain glaciers, Baumer wanted to experiment with different forms of rock crystals in order to create this look. While the full ensemble takes your breath away, the pendant itself can be worn on its own for a different yet just as striking look. The 199-ct aquamarine pendant is accompanied by 9.3cts of diamonds and white gold, with three smaller aquamarine crystals of 14.29cts to finish off this elegant masterpiece. CJ (Retails for $632,549)

CANADIANJE WELLER.COM

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elle@paj.ca