th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879
NOVEMBER 2012
SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE
CMCA CMCA AUDITED
AUDITED
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
SPECIAL DISTRIBUTION AT BASELWORLD 2013
Special Feature: ECO-FRIENDLY PACKAGING
Transmettre
Passer le flambeau aux plus jeunes
See inside for details
Success Story David Frew, right, and son Michael of Star-Set Jewellers, Pembroke, Ontario
COLOUR CRAZE IN GEM STONES PLUS: ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
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24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company
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More than ever, our designs are not set in stone.
By offering you the ability to Choose, Change, and Create, we’re making it easier than ever to give your customers what they’re looking for. Just one more way Stuller is here for you. Call 800-877-7777, or go to stuller.com.
from a vast selection of items online or in our catalogs.
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one-of-a-kind jewellery with CounterSketch® Studio or Cad.
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Š 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.
CMYK
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A M O D E R N C L A S S I C
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FOLLOW THE BUZZ TO OUR WEBSITE BCOUTURE.CA 416-367-3236 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 21
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ESTABLISHED 1879 NOVEMBER 2012 • VOL. 133, NO. 7 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Mark Keast Editor | mark@gorgmgo.com Frank Shoniker Vice President, Operations EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol . 132, no. |1 frank@gorgmgo.com Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos| Creative Business Coordinator | erin@gorgmgo.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Joanne M. Brathwaite Web Content Editor | joanne@gorgmgo.com
CarolIrina besler Consulting Editor Coordinator | irina@gorgmgo.com Lytchak Editorial Paul aguirre AssociateJennifer Editor | Hopf paul@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern | intern@gorgmgo.com
scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Booth Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com
Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com Henry Fonseca Finance Administrator | henry@gorgmgo.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com
CONTRIBUTORS Brendan Burden, Veronique Dubé, Gord Henning, chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs Andrew Malabre, Cyndi Mills, Pierre Ostiguy, John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson, bonnie siegler.
Charlotte Percival-Gonzalez, Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler
SALES
salEs lucy holden
Jeff Yamaguchi
Karolann Cassman
Lucy Holden
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
AssociAte publisher TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117lucy@rivegauchemedia.com EMAIL email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Jeff Yamaguchi
ADVERTISING SALES
ADVertisiNG sAles TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 EMAIL jeff@rivegauchemedia.com email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product No.Media 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all Published by Agreement Rive Gauche ii inc. representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not
canada post canadian publications Mailof sales Agreement No.an 40678000. the publisher does not assume anyshall responsibility forthe theamount contentsofofthe anypublisher’s advertisement andfor anysuch and advertising. all the fault theproduct publisher and in such event the limit of the publisher’s liability not exceed charge No portion of this publication representations or warranties made advertising those of without the advertiser and notwritten of the publisher. the is notCanadian liable to any advertiser for anyismisprints inreview advertising not mayin besuch reproduced, inare all or part, the express permission ofpublisher the publisher. Jeweller magazine pleased to unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.
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Change of Address
email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735
canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide isor send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 by Rive Gauche Media II Inc. per subscription per year (canadaPublished only).
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January/February 2011
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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2 |
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
12/16/10 11:28:53 AM
12-11-01 3:42 PM
1-877-LILI-USA
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86
68 80
[FEATURES] NOVEMBER 2012 68. all in the family How David Frew and son, Michael, have grown Star-Set jewellers
74. 4 Ever Star Night Bash This night of style and music saw the jewellery industry’s heavy-hitters and some of Canada’s most prominent celebs mix it up
76. Ireland Inspires Irish jewellery offers a touchstone to the past and a vision for the future—something that interests a lot of Canadians
80. the colour wheel of fortune Bridal and fashion categories get a splash of colour as investors and consumers opt for coloured stones
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86. Passing the torch Younger generation jewellers learn the ropes from their parents 90. build your “green” business Retailers need to consider costs and aesthetics when it comes to eco-friendly packaging
CJ en français: 51. Les nouvelles 56. expo-prestige 60. transmettre entreprise et succÈs À la generation suivante 62. À la source du profit
www.canadianjeweller.com
12-10-29 10:40 AM
FINE STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
1.888.388.4736 WWW.ETHANSTARS.COM
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30
40 94
[DEPARTMENTS] NOVEMBER 2012 www.twitter.com/CJMag TM
18.
Letter from the editor
22.
Product Showcase
30. star watch
96. standard practice Setting standards that will benefit the jewellery trade and its future
32.
who’s news
98. Showcase/marketplace
36.
industry photos
106. Last word
40.
for the record
94. designer profile - bulova Architectural designing was the inspiration behind Tadashi Nakamura’s work on Bulova’s Precision Chronograph
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www.canadianjeweller.com
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The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands Seamless tubing blanks, diamond cut. Available in Sterling silver, 10K, 14K, 18K, 19K, & platinum. To have a rep visit you please call us! www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc.
atlantic_Ad-SinglePage-3.indd 1 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19
T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257
E: info@atlanticengraving.com 2012-10-10 9:25 AM 12-10-25 4:29 PM
letterfromtheeditor
Potential Canada-India free trade agreement I rarely talk about politics, or get involved at all. However there’s a present-day issue that could potentially impact the jewellery industry in Canada. It’s an issue we all need to get involved in. In July, the Harper government concluded the fi ft h round of negotiations for a Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) with India. CEPA negotiations are a key priority for the government and Canada is seeking to conclude the CEPA in 2013. The devil is always in the details. My worry is the lack of information on what the potential agreement will contain, and the parameters of it. There is very little pro-action in terms of communication from the government, regarding a potentially far-reaching agreement. As an industry, we need to get proactive, and educate ourselves about it. We will certainly be proactive in the pages of Canadian Jeweller magazine going forward, starting with our December issue, with content detailing some of the pros and cons of the potential agreement. You should also make your own inquiries, and get up to speed on the talks. The website for Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada has updates on the status of talks. That’s a good place to start. CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DISTRIBUTED AT BASELWORLD
Some exciting news! The April/May Baselworld issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine will be distributed directly at the Baselworld show, which runs from April 25-May 2, 2013. That’s a great opportunity to get your brand and message in front of the elite in the jewellery and watch industry worldwide. What a great opportunity to showcase our Canadian savoir faire. Get involved. Contact me directly.
SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE
Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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EMBIX - (800)361-6247, www.EMBIX.com CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19
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thecontributors
VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ
CHARLOTTE PERCIVAL-GONZALEZ
BONNIE SIEGLER
Véronique Dubé is a trilingual freelance copywriter, translator and proofreader living in the greater Montreal area. After many years working in the fascinating world of jewellery, she joined an advertising agency, where she realized that writing had always been her passion. Her university studies in French, English and Spanish copywriting and translation, and her private training in journalism, as well as her professional background have made Véronique a versatile contributor. She wrote about Lynn Blais' success on page 62.
Charlotte Percival-Gonzalez is a Yorkshire girl turned Torontonian who specializes in health and lifestyle journalism. Since moving to Canada in 2009, she has written true life crime features for national British women’s magazines and lifestyle features for Canadian publications including Toronto Sun, 24 Hours and iVillage.ca. Charlotte wrote about the emergence of colour in the bridal and fashion categories on page 76.
Los Angeles-based entertainment writer and Viva’s West Coast Entertainment Director Bonnie Siegler has been covering the celebrity circuit for more than a decade. Her resume includes two books combining her knowledge of celebrity living and entertaining, as well as contributing to InStyle, Redbook, Elle, Biography and Shape magazines to name a few. Bonnie profi led Bulova creative director, Tadashi Nakamura on page 86.
PAGE 76-80
PAGE 62-64 PAGE 86-87
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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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Best Bargains
CELEBRATING
YEARS
IN THE SHOW BUSINESS
Package 201: Genuine Gemstone and Fresh
Water Pearl Brooch set in base metal, available in a. Amethyst (shown), b. Peridot, c. White Topaz d. Tourmaline, e. Aquamarine, f. Turquoise, g. Black Onyx
Package 706: 10kt. W/Y Gold 3mm Earrings, set with all 12 month genuine gems.
Package 744: 14kt. Gold Freshwater Pearl Earrings: a, b: 8.5-9mm, c. 7.5-8mm d. 7-7.5mm, e. 5.5-6mm
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Please Visit us at the following Shows 2012
SHOW
DATE
1.Toronto
Jan 27-29/13
BOOTH #2309
Mode Show, Doubletree by Hilton, Dixon Rd.
2. Tuscon
Feb 05-10/13
TBA
Tucson Convention Center
3.New York
Feb 24-26/13
TBA
Jacob Javits Convention Center
2. Las Vegas
May 30-Jun 03/13
TBA
The Mandalay Bay Convention Center
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VENUE
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b.
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YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S. Please Add $20.00 for S&H, OR $50.00/ 1lb. FEDEX.
Best Bargains
21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626
For more Products visit our website at
www.bbjw.com info@bbjw.com 1-800-661-4871
12-10-25 4:30 PM
productshowcase
3 1
4
2
1. LILI JEwelry
3. Imperial Color diamonds
This 7.20ct Orchidea® ring, resembling the magnificent Orchid, features a
Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery
gently pointed tip at the end of each luminescent petal. This breathtaking
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shape is built of 61 facets, perfectly aligned to create brilliance and fire.
diamond necklaces. We are proud to offer an extensive collection of fine loose natural fancy colour diamonds (all certified G.I.A). Our high volume
2. Shiny Jewellers
allows us to be competitive and provide the lowest prices possible.
The Juliet is one of Bcouture’s most captivating pieces. It is an ageless, delicate 14k rose gold bracelet with two rows of alternating pink quartz and
4. Crescendo Jewellery Inc.
pink amethyst semi-precious gemstones, intricately handmade in Canada.
Stylish and Bold best describe our Sterling Silver & Gold Men’s Ring
The Juliet is so elegant and beautiful, it exudes romance and has stolen
Collection. Order from all of our collections online at www.crescendojewellery.
the hearts of everyone who has seen it.
com. Innovative design, high standard of quality and outstanding service continue to define Crescendo.
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www.canadianjeweller.com
12-11-01 3:47 PM
Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:
New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising 27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
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productshowcase
1 3
2 4
1. GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad
3. Lotus Jewellery
GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers
New from JewelPop Inc., GemDrops interchangeable pendant line allows the
in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used
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2. Nova
4. Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas Jewelry
Nova’s stunning, yet simplistic overlapping petal design ring is set with
We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast
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more information.
personality, style and taste of future brides. To see the full collection and our wedding bands, visit midasjewelryinc.ca.
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www.canadianjeweller.com
12-11-01 3:51 PM
Email: info@dimples.me website: www.dimples.me
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Call: 905-852-2050 Uxbridge, Ontario, Canada
12-10-25 5:12 PM
productshowcase
1
2
3 4
1. ELLE JEWELRY COLLECTION
3. Malo
ELLE Jewelry’s new “Micro Pave” Collection. Indulge yourself in simple
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2. Eliminate Holiday Stress with Stuller
4. Creation Le Grenier
During your busiest season, we want to let you know that Stuller is here
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resin finish, this necklace can be worn with a day ensemble or complete a
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the holidays, we’ve added yet another way to help make your season a success. Starting now until December 31, 2012, enjoy flat rate shipping of $29.99–with preferred carrier FedEx–on every package under 5lbs! That’s the beauty of it all.
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www.canadianjeweller.com
12-11-01 3:44 PM
Bijouterie / Je wellery
Specializing in:
Reverse colours available on all rings.
Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.
Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.
Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 • Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • info@legajeweller.com Quebec contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235
Proudly Canadian
Ontario Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065
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GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE
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12-10-25 5:00 PM
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1. jewelers mutual Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail
3. Best Bargains
Jewellery Businesses today! Jewellery thieves use trickery, sleight of hand,
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At the Critics Choice TV Awards, Emmy Rossum dazzled in Neil Lane designs. She chose a pair of earrings set with two pear-shaped rough cut diamonds surrounded by round brilliant diamonds (.81ct). The earrings were topped with fleur-de-lis set in 18k yellow gold ($15,000). She complemented her earrings with a fancy coloured rough diamond ring on an 18k rose gold mounting set with 22 round brilliant cuts (.55ct; $9,000).
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“Modern Family” star Sarah Hyland dazzled wearing Katerina Maxine’s 18k white gold diamond horseshoe bracelet ($16,400) and an 18k white gold diamond deco ring ($22,220). Also at this event, Emily Deschanel wore Baccarat’s “Les Sous Bois” Collection murmure yellow crystal earrings ($395) and a LeVian black onyx ring ($128.)
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who’snews
PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN OUR INDUSTRY
Juliette Harden
Howard Rubin, who passed away earlier this year. Fuller’s primary responsibility will be to represent NAJA at the Appraisal Foundation and the Industry Advisory Council and he will be attending all meetings and serve in an advisory capacity on other Appraisal Foundation committees.
Rembrandt Charms welcomes new president In memoriam: Juliette Harden Beloved mother, wife and founder of Harden’s Jewellers, Juliette Harden passed away in August at the age of 91. Juliette is remembered for having a profound love and passion for the jewellery industry, which was an integral part of her life for more than 40 years. Today, Juliette’s sons continue the legacy of her jewellery business. Brent Harden is the president of La Maison D’Or, a diamond jewellery retailer serving the Ottawa area for several decades now.
New appointments at Fossil Fossil has announced new positions within the company at their Dallas, Texas head-quarters. Tom Kennedy is the new executive vice president. He has acted as senior vice president in the retail division since 2009. Edward J. Robben has been appointed the senior vice president and chief information officer. Joanne Calabrese is now the new senior vice president of retail merchandising. She recently worked at JCR Consulting.
President of Belle Étoile retires Jim Grohn, president of Belle Étoile, announced his retirement via Facebook, adding that he is, “looking forward to some well-deserved down-
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time.” Grohn became president in November 2010 and previously acted as executive vice president at A. Jaffe and director of sales at Hearts on Fire. The company is not currently looking to fill the position.
CJA appoints new chairman of the Board of Directors The Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) has appointed Kim Markwart as chairman of the Board of Directors for 2012-2013. Kim is the owner and manager of Saskatchewan’s Markwart Jewellers Ltd., established in 1960 by her husband’s parents. Born and raised in Saskatchewan, Kim obtained a degree in economics and eventually purchased remaining shares in Markwart Jewellers Inc. with her husband. The company supports the community through the Northeast Health Care Initiative and TMSS Scholarship Fund.
Dr. Patrick W. Welch has been appointed the company president and chief operating officer of Rembrandt Charms. Dr. Welch has spent the past 32 years as the COO and partner of Adaco Services and has an extensive business background with more than 45 years of experience. “His business acumen and strong leadership will be a definite asset to our team,” says company CEO, Chris Lux. Dr. Welch, Sgt. USMC (ret), was awarded the prestigious Purple Heart for his service in Vietnam.
Martin Fuller named as NAJA’s national secretary The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) has announce that Martin D. Fuller, GG, Certified Senior Member, as NAJA’s National Secretary. Martin replaces the position held by
Dr. Patr ick W.
Welch
www.canadianjeweller.com
12-10-25 2:16 PM
Finished rings, semi-mounts and mounts
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12-10-29 9:18 AM
who’snews
PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN OUR INDUSTRY Michael Flaher ty
New Western Canada rep for Atlantic Engraving Atlantic Engraving Ltd. welcomed Doug Zmurchok of Doug Zmurchok Agencies as the new director of marketing for all of Western Canada. “By having Mr. Zmurchok represent us, it will solidify and promote our exclusively Canadian-made wedding bands,” says Freydi Neuwirth-Traurig, a gemologist at Atlantic Engraving. “With Mr. Zmurchok’s proven strengths and Atlantic Engraving’s superior design and quality, we are eager for all the opportunities this will bring, in keeping Atlantic Engraving at the head of the wedding band industry throughout Canada.”
Chamilia promotes executive to CEO Michael Flaherty has been promoted to CEO of the Minneapolis-based Chamilia. Flaherty has worked with Chamilia as executive vice president, chief development officer and as a member of the board for the past six years. He is most noted for helping Chamilia open international offices in the U.K. and Australia and partner up with Swarovski.
Pandora appoints new president Scott Burger will be replacing John White as Pandora’s new president for North America. White leaves after five years of developing the company into one of North America’s most recognized jewellery brands. Burger initially joined Pandora in 2007, and has since been successful in securing the Canadian market as the lead for the operations and finance functions in North America. “Scott is a strong leader with proven experience in the wholesale and retail operations,” says CEO Bjorn Gulden. “I am confident that Scott will prove to be a great asset to our team and he will work closely with me to continue to develop this growing market.”
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Citizen signs new brand ambassador Citizen has signed Victoria Azarenka as the new brand ambassador. Azarenka is currently the number one player on the WTA Tour and will be the face of Citizen’s newest Eco-Drive Unstoppable media campaign. “I am delighted to join the team of international Citizen Eco-Drive Brand Ambassadors,” she said of her partnership with Citizen. “I admire Citizen’s commitment to the international sport of tennis.”
Cohen, Citizen ka and Jeffrey Victor ia Azaren c. President In , ica ny of Amer Watch Compa
De Beers appoints new chair and announces ‘realignment’ De Beers is set on putting “the consumer at the beginning of the diamond pipeline” by changing the structure of its company. The new changes, which are still to be revealed, will include a renaming of the firm and the solidification of De Beers’ brand. “We have therefore begun a piece of work to start to realign our organization a little better to enable us to better translate your needs into a responsive production and sales strategy – so that together we can grow the value of diamonds for decades to come,” wrote Varda Shine, DTC CEO, in a statement to stakeholders.
The RJC welcomes new chairman, James Courage The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has welcomed James Courage as the new chairman, replacing Matt Runci. The change will take place January 1, 2013. Courage, whose appointment was unanimous, is currently the chief executive of Platinum Guild International. He has more than 30 years of experience in the jewellery industry. “I am fortunate to be assuming the chairman’s role of an organization exhibiting exceptional institutional health,” Courage said. “RJC is a vibrant and successful trade association with a rapidly growing international membership of more than 400 members throughout the jewellery supply chain.” Courage will be formally confirmed as chairman by the full RJC membership at the RJC’s Annual General Meeting (AGM) in May 2013. [CJ]
12-11-01 3:49 PM
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1. Hratch Ghanimian, Zaven Ghanimian and Leon DerBogosian of Zeghani 2. Steve Parker, Lillian Jensen of Creative Goldsmiths Ltd. and Olivier Felicio of Canadian Jeweller magazine 3. Grace Ng, Mary Milan, Melissa Abdul, Claire Vessot and Sohie Changof PAJ/ELLE 4. David Ritter, president and CEO of Canadian Jewellers Association 5. John Met, sales director at Embix Watch Importing Co. 6. Olivier Lesage, Suzanne Nazar and Robert Forget from Carmen & Co. and Olivier Vanbrandt from Ice-Watch, Belgium 7. Phyllis Richard, executive director of Jewellers Vigilance Canada
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Western Canada Jewellery Expo 1. Salpi Sayadian and Ani Hovanessian of Bcouture, Reg Shah, Olivier Felicio of Canadian Jeweller magazine and Tyson Roset 2. Martial DubĂŠ, vice president of sales at BFly and Adrielle Zmurchok, assistant for B.C. and Alberta BFly sales rep 3. Susan Cartwright-Coates of Digem, Grace Ng of PAJ/ELLE, Brian Coates and Mary Milan of PAJ/ ELLE 4. Katherine Bodoh, JMI director of industry relations & corporate events; Kathleen Morgan, The Jewelers Board of Trade regional manager; Sam Tassoul, JMI business analyst; Phyllis Richard, JVC executive director; Derek Roy, CJB Insurance services account executive; Jean Gammage, JVC volunteer-atlarge and Beth Saunders, CJG general manager 5. Rose Levy of Ottimo Creations 6. Roland Watier of Josef Elias 7. Olivier Felicio and Chris Iliopoulos, owner of Sothil 8. Olivier Felicio and Peter Fuhrer of Rodania Canada Inc. 9. Jason LeMaire, Mark Attales and Jessica Marks of Stuller Inc. with Olivier Felicio
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news | trends | events Imperial’s name change Umicore, a global materials technology group, has changed its name to Umicore Precious Metals Canada Inc. This year marks the fifth anniversary of the acquisition of Imperial Smelting and Refining Company of Canada Ltd. by Umicore and the name change will emphasize the integration of Imperial into Umicore’s Jewellery and Industrial Metals business unit. Umicore has also introduced a website under the new name, www. umicorepreciousmetals.com.
Jewelers For Children welcomes 10 new directors Jewelers For Children (JFC) — a non-profit organization in the jewellery industry that raises funds from companies in the industry to support children in need — has welcomed 10 new directors to the board. The newly appointed directors will serve on JFC
committees and help with fundraising and program developments for a three-year term. Some of the new appointments include Scott Berger from Pandora North America, David Bonaparte from Jewelers of America, Alan Chinich of Movado Group, David Cochran of Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America, Eddie Le Vian of Le Vian and Yancy Weinrich of JCK Events/Reed Expositions.
CJA & JVC revise anti-money laundering compliance kit The introduction of new Anti-Money Laundering and Anti-Terrorist Financing Regulations in December 2008 requires that many members of the jewellery industry have a Compliance Program/Regime in place in their business. FINTRAC has begun evaluations of compliance regimes within our industry and the second wave of letters were sent out this in September. CJA and JVC have revised the Anti-
Money Laundering/Anti-Terrorist Financing Kit to make it more user-friendly. This Compliance Kit is a tool to use to understand and develop the compliance program.
New tool helps businesses with supply chain transparency Jewelers of America, the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Association of America, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee and other leading jewelry associations and companies have joined forces to develop the Diamond Source Warranty Protocol, released in October. The objective of the Protocol is voluntary inventory management, designed to help businesses operate at a higher level of assurance, helping to exclude diamonds from questionable sources throughout their supply chains. The document will soon be available for download at www.jewelers.org, www.jvclegal. org, and www.dmia.net.
Rive Gauche Media and Lush Luxury Magazine Inc. merge The quarterly glossy magazine, Lush Luxury, has been added to Rive Gauche Media’s growing stable of luxury publications. Lush Luxury, based in Toronto, and launched in 2005, covers luxury lifestyle. RGM’s president, Olivier Felicio, says Lush Luxury fits perfectly with the company’s two other luxury titles, Canadian Jeweller Magazine and Ever Magazine. “There are wonderful synergies between all three titles,” he says. “The real uniqueness of Lush Luxury comes down to the quality of its readership, in terms of income, education, and overall experience. This is the cream of the luxury market in Canada.” Lush Luxury, which has won over 20 awards internationally for editorial excellence, is distributed to demographically rich Globe and Mail newspaper home subscribers across Canada, to affluent/business travelers via distribution into the Air Canada Maple Leaf lounges in all major airports across Canada, at major retail outlets like Chapters/Indigo, to Bay St. executive offices, as well as through boutique hotels and other channels. “Overall, with our expanding network of luxury properties, not many companies will be able to match our reach, this title brings the opportunity for high-end jewellery retailers to reach the most targeted luxury end user,” says Felicio. Rive Gauche Media President Olivier Felicio and Lush Luxury Magazine Publisher Mark Keast.
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La Swiss re-vamps Mississauga location La Swiss celebrated the grand re-opening of its store in Square One Mall in Mississauga in October, with the objective of creating even more of a luxury environment for shoppers. The revamped store, over 1,000 sq. ft. in size, features a completely new look, including the Breitling corner, dedicated to the Breitling and Breitling for Bentley collections. Look for similar relaunches of La Swiss locations across Canada in the near future.
Charm Diamond Centres opens flagship store Charm Diamond Centres opened its 70th store at Quinte Mall in Belleville, Ont., in October. The flagship store is the company’s largest to
date, at 2,500 sq. ft., and features a Swarovski store-in-store partner boutique. The opening coincides with the company’s 40th anniversary. “Belleville sets a new precedent for jewellery stores,” said Troy Calder, president of Charm Diamond Centres. Cathy Powers – a well-known face at the Quinte Mall, having been in the jewellery industry for nearly 30 years – is the new store manager. Charm Diamond Centres has been named one of Canada’s 50 Best Managed Companies five times.
Canadian economy sees boost in employment According to The Conference Board of Canada, the Canadian economy saw a significant increase in employment for the month of September, with the majority of positions, approximately 85 per cent, being full-time jobs. The economy added a total of 52,100 jobs last month, while the unemployment rate increased slightly to 7.4 per cent – the result of more people searching for work. Ontario added the most jobs for September, a total of 31,000, although most of them were part-time positions. The manufacturing industry saw its first gains in several months due to various manufacturing
categories expanding production. The retail market also experienced a 0.7 per cent growth as a result of increased sales in department stores, car dealerships, gas stations and furniture stores. The report has revealed that the metals and minerals commodity price index dropped to its lowest level in two years. Visit www. conferenceboard.ca for more details.
Study shows decline in firms entering industry According to statistics from the Jewelers Board of Trade (JBT), the overall size of the industry in the United States continues to decline. Fewer jewellery firms went out of business – that’s the good news – however the number of retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers entering the jewellery business in the U.S. in the third quarter is down a total of 17 per cent. The sharpest drop is in manufacturers – the number of new manufacturers fell from 10 to 4 in the third quarter. JBT president Dione Kenyon said the decline is the result of better business practices leading to improved industry health, overall. The people that are left are stronger, and less leveraged, she added. For more information on the study, for JBT members only, go to www. jewelersboard.com.
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo welcomes new owners The Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Ltd. (WCJE), along with Trish and Larry Ulliac, are pleased to introduce Geoff and Phil Payne as the new owners of WCJE. The WCJE trade show takes place every August at the Shaw Conference Centre in Edmonton. Larry Ulliac will continue to serve as past president of WCJE into 2013 and will help guide Phil and his son, Geoff, through the changeover process. Lilie Ford, a jewellery show professional with 20 years of exhibition experience, will continue on as WCJE event director. “With their considerable proficiency in marketing and extensive knowledge of the trade show industry, Geoff and Phil will most certainly take the Expo forward, while maintaining its status as Canada’s premier jewellery show,” says Ulliac, who will also continue to exhibit at the WCJE. Phil Payne, owner of AIM Capital Corp., has owned and operated businesses in Western Canada and the Pacific Northwest. He will be assisting Ford in managing the WCJE in Edmonton. Geoff Payne, an Edmonton-based computer systems manager, joins the WCJE with 18 years of business information and development experience. Trish and Larry Ulliac are commended on the 30 years they have dedicated to the industry. Visit www.wcjexpo. com for more information on next year’s show or contact Lilie Ford at lford_wcjexpo@bell.net. Lillie Ford and Geoff Payne
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www.canadianjeweller.com
12-11-01 3:59 PM
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U.S.-based retailer Nordstrom rumoured to open stores in Canada Nordstrom plans to open multiple stores in Canada in partnership with Canadian developer Cadillac Fairview, Women’s Wear Daily reported. President Blake Nordstrom told shareholders the company MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 was looking in Toronto and Vancouver, but that “finding the right locations is a challenge.”
Rio Tinto teams up with Reena Ahluwalia Rio Tinto has launched a jewellery line, Courageous Spirit, which was created using diamonds from their Bunder diamond mine in Madhya Pradesh, India. Reena Ahluwalia, a Toronto-based jewellery designer and a native of Madhya Pradesh, was commissioned to design the collection for Rio Tinto as a tribute to the women of Madhya Pradesh.
Movado and Coach team up for a cause October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and to commemorate, Movado has collaborated with Coach to create the 2012 Coach Andee Breast Cancer Awareness watch. Sold at Coach retail stores, coach.com, and select department stores, the watch will retail for $258. Twenty per cent of the proceeds will benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF).
MCD Pearl Imports A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 Email info@mcdpearls.com
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De Beers to spotlight Forevermark in national TV commercials De Beers is planning on running a series of commercials that will highlight its Forevermark brand. The advertisements are set to air on network and cable TV this fall season as well as appear in newspapers, magazines, online advertising outlets and on social media sites. The focus of the commercials will be Forevermark’s new “Center of My Universe” product concept, which is a twist on the Halo design.
www.canadianjeweller.com
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fortherecord De Beers trademarks slogan The United States Patent and Trademark Office granted De Beers a trademark for the phrase, “The World’s Most Carefully Selected Diamonds,” used in connection with the Forevermark brand. The phrase was first coined in commerce in December 2011 and it will be used on the company’s website and in select online advertising.
Rio Tinto’s sustainable jewellery
Diamond Industry of Canada signs with Gemme group Diamond Industry of Canada has joined the prestigious Gemme group. Gemme group is comprised of 32 jewellers and store owners from seven regions of southern Quebec and two cities outside of the province, Kingston, Ontario and Moncton, New Brunswick. “Maximum Brilliance by Diamond Industry is thrilled to become the latest member of the Gemme group,” says Robert Cheszes, president of Diamond Industry of Canada.
The Nature’s Beauty collection, Rio Tinto’s pilot project, is made of gold from Rio Tinto’s Kennecott Utah Copper mine, and white and Poppin’ for the Cure by Kameleon Jewelry champagne diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Kameleon Jewelry has announced the annual Mine in Australia. As the only miner certified Poppin’ for the Cure Campaign, encouraging by The Responsible Jewellery Council, Rio Tinto Kameleon retailers to host in-store events has been reforming the jewellery industry. throughout the month of October. Since their first “Today’s consumer is looking for assurance launch, Kameleon has donated a portion of the that the jewellery they buy has been produced proceeds from sales of its Pink Ribbon JewelPops to the highest ethical, social and environmental toward the fight against breast cancer, and this standards,” said Jean-Marc Lieberherr, Rio year, they will double the donation for every Tinto’sBlack Diamonds chief commercial [CJ] Ibrahim Ad Final:Ibrahim All Textofficer. 12/10/12 9:59 JewelPop AM Pagesold. 1
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Available Nov 2012 in PDF or hardcopy form. Contact us for more information! 55 Queen St. E. Suite 1302, Toronto, ON
1.800.668.4422 F: 416.368.0007
info@houseofjewellery.com
www.houseofjewellery.com
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Les Nouvelles Par Véronique Dubé
Les créations de Mélusine, l’éclectisme à son meilleur Émilie Boucher, une jeune créatrice de bijoux de 34 ans installée dans le Bas-Saint-Laurent, présente sa collection automne-hiver MarieMichelle. Mélusine existe depuis maintenant sept ans et conçoit des collections uniques pour la boutique Le Roi de Rivière-du-Loup, pour l’entreprise Premier Tech et est également vendue en ligne. Émilie s’inspire des femmes importantes de sa vie, de la mode et des designers, comme Massimo Giorgetti, qui lui permettent de voir au-delà du bijou et de saisir toute l’idée autour de la création. « J’ai une vision très « petite fille », une vision un peu naïve, dans le bon sens, si je peux m’exprimer ainsi… », me confiait-elle. La créatrice a un penchant pour les mélanges hétéroclites, les tons pastel et le glam rock. Bien qu’Émilie souhaite que ces créations se taillent une place de choix dans l’industrie du bijou et de la mode, Mélusine se démarque par son authenticité. Pour cette raison, la jeune femme tient à conserver l’esprit créateur, personnalisé et unique qui la caractérise. Mélusine, c’est un bijou simple, minutieusement confectionné et féminin à souhait. Pour de plus amples renseignements, visitez www. melusinebijoux.wordpress.com
Beverly Hills Jewellers : là où se fréquentent le classique et l’audace
Un avenir assuré pour le diamant en Orient
La vague romantique déferle sur les bijoux
C’est dans un décor raffiné que Beverly Hills Jewellers présentait, lors de l’événement ExpoPrestige, ses collections teintées de mystère et de romance où se côtoient diamants noirs, mélange de couleurs d’or, topazes multicolores et plusieurs articles arborant fièrement la promesse du diamant canadien. Le manufacturier canadien impressionne par son choix d’alliances d’une élégance remarquable et de styles variés, ses pierres semi-précieuses taillées avec précision et leurs couleurs inusitées. Inspirées des dernières tendances hollywoodiennes, Beverly Hills Jewellers propose également un large éventail de bijoux vintage en or rose, jaune et blanc.
Alors que le prix de l’or ne cesse d’augmenter et que sa demande diminue, le diamant est de plus en plus sollicité, notamment en Inde et en Chine. D’une part, l’expansion de la classe moyenne chinoise a entraîné l’éclosion d’un nouveau marché axé sur les produits de luxe. D’autre part, les Indiens sont de grands consommateurs de bijoux en or, mais la hausse des prix a découragé les acheteurs. Les joailliers sont donc contraints de réduire l’utilisation de l’or qu’ils compensent par les diamants ou les pierres précieuses. Il s’agit de la seule façon de convaincre les Indiens d’acheter un bijou présentant une pureté d’or moins élevée.
Si l’or rose, les camées, les broches et les parures imposantes avaient été relégués aux oubliettes dans les dernières années, ils font un retour en force en 2013. Les créateurs s’en donnent à cœur joie et les remettent au goût du jour. La tendance actuelle veut qu’on les introduise à une tenue toute simple ou qu’on les porte de manière ostentatoire, afin de détourner les codes de ces classiques de la joaillerie d’autrefois et de bien les mettre en évidence. On note un retour de l’opulence; non seulement les bijoux, mais aussi la fourrure, le cachemire et le cuir reprennent leur place sur les passerelles. www.canadianjeweller.com
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Soyez le bijoutier de demain Durant trois jours, la compagnie Stuller présente aux bijoutiers et aux acteurs importants de la joaillerie et de la bijouterie l’événement Bridge – Be Tomorrow’s Jeweler!. Développant une vision avant-gardiste de l’industrie de la bijouterie, Stuller s’appuie sur la mise en place de solutions innovatrices, telles les nouvelles technologies de vente en magasin, l’approvisionnement personnalisé en outillage et les inventaires virtuels. Ainsi, par l’utilisation de logiciels perfectionnés et sophistiqués fournis par Stuller, notamment CounterSketch®, il est désormais possible pour les bijoutiers de créer des bijoux personnalisés pour leur clientèle et de pouvoir les réaliser en un court laps de temps. Stuller honore sa promesse de changement en assurant l’expansion de ses clients en plus d’optimiser leurs profits. Très actif dans le marché québécois depuis le début de l’année 2012, Stuller a mis en place les effectifs nécessaires afin d’offrir ses services au-delà de la frontière américaine. Pour de plus amples renseignements, visitez http://bridge.stuller.com/ microsites/ou contactez directement Martial Dubé par courriel à l’adresse suivante martialdube@stuller.com
La collection Bflower prend son envol En mai dernier, à l’occasion du salon JCK Las Vegas, la compagnie Bfly lançait sa toute dernière collection Bflower, destinée aux jeunes demoiselles. Offrant les bagues, les pendentifs, les boucles d’oreilles, les chaînes et les bracelets, ces bijoux sont fabriqués en argent et recouverts d’une fine couche de rhodium. Des chaînes et bracelets sont également proposés en nylon. Depuis l’augmentation du prix de l’or, l’argent se taille une place de choix dans le marché nord-américain. Le bijou Bflower est destiné à inspirer chaque jeune fille qui le portera. Les différents articles de cette nouvelle collection sont disponibles en cinq couleurs, soit le violet pour le rêve, le blanc pour la confiance, le bleu pour l’action, le rose pour l’optimisme et le fuchsia pour la persévérance. Pour plus d’informations, visitez www.bfly.ca/fr
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Place aux bijoux de fantaisie haut de gamme de Very Sisters Lors du plus récent événement Bijorhca à Paris, le Salon international de la bijouterie précieuse et fantaisie, les « Very Sisters » ont conquis les visiteurs avec leurs nouvelles créations. Claire et Sophie, les deux sœurs propriétaires de l’entreprise, présentent une collection intemporelle de bijoux de fantaisie haut de gamme fabriqués en argent, en laiton, en plaqué or rose, jaune ou au rhodium noir. Elles puisent leurs inspirations en voyageant, suivent leurs instincts et exploitent avec brio les tendances mode minimalistes et glam rock. Chaque bijou est fabriqué à la main, ce qui le rend unique. La multitude de modèles qu’elles proposent saura plaire tant aux femmes qu’aux jeunes fi lles ou aux enfants. www.verysisters.com
Le diamant canadien et le « Code » Depuis plusieurs décennies, les critères de sélection des diamants, mieux connus comme les 4C – color, cut, clarity et carat weight - ont été utilisés comme un guide universel d’achat des diamants. Aujourd’hui, avec l’avènement du diamant canadien, il pourrait dorénavant exister un 5e C : country of origin. Établi par le Bureau de la concurrence et la Gendarmerie Royale du Canada, le Code de conduite volontaire pour l’authentification des indications « Diamant canadien » (le « Code ») a été mis sur pied grâce à de nombreux intervenants de l’industrie. Ce Code permet non seulement de retracer le chemin parcouru par un diamant canadien du détaillant en remontant jusqu’à la société minière, mais aussi d’off rir aux consommateurs un mécanisme d’authentification des diamants canadiens vendus par les signataires du Code.
La hausse des prix du diamant est profitable au Canada
Thousands of charms in silver and gold. RembrandtCharms.com/CJ
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En 2011, le prix des diamants bruts a grimpé d’environ 24%. D’après l’analyste Edward Sterck, de BMO Marché des capitaux, il devrait encore progresser de 9% en 2012. Toutefois, on estime que la demande pourrait, d’ici 2020, atteindre 247 millions de carats contre une off re de 175 millions. Il s’agit d’une excellente nouvelle pour le Canada puisqu’en 2010, le pays a extrait de ses quatre mines 11,8 millions de carats et a fourni 21,6% de la valeur de la production mondiale de diamants. Tandis que le prix de l’or est fi xé selon le cours officiel, celui des diamants est fi xé selon la qualité de chaque pierre. Comme les diamants canadiens sont reconnus pour leur grande pureté, le pays est favorablement positionné pour profiter de la hausse des prix. [CJ]
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
12-10-25 1:18 PM
Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8
Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with
RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113
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PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller
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Expo-Prestige
un incontournable du monde de la bijouterie Par VÉronique DubÉ
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soirée et en broche. Du côté bijoux pour enfants, Bfly présentait sa toute nouvelle collection en argent Bflower, qui a été chaudement accueillie par les bijoutiers. De plus, l’équipe de Bfly a remporté le prix du plus beau kiosque double.
D’abord, notons la présence des fabricants de bijoux en or Malo, Almar, Ital Can et Sindbad qui se démarquent pour leur impressionnant choix de chaînes, de bracelets, de bagues, de pendentifs et de parures classiques. De plus, les intemporelles perles font un retour en force. Chez Aréli, on les veut blanches ou noires, mais parfois aussi rosées ou corail. Elles se font tantôt discrètes et parfois très volumineuses. Des incontournables pour le temps des Fêtes, on les retrouve notamment en sautoir, en bagues de
Ensuite, en sillonnant les différentes avenues de l’exposition, vous remarquez un retour nostalgique à l’époque des années 70 et 80, où formes géométriques, serpents et montres en or ont la cote. Des créoles surdimensionnées aux bagues de phalange en passant par l’or électrique ou le rosé intense des montres, c’est tout un assortiment qui s’offre aux acheteurs. Également, serait-ce pour souligner l’année du dragon dans l’astrologie chinoise, l’animal est grandement apprivoisé par une multitude de fournisseurs. Il se décline, recouvert d’un pavé de pierres précieuses en boucles d’oreilles et en bague, où il s’enroule autour du doigt, en pendentif ou en collier, toujours aussi flamboyant, voulant repousser le mauvais œil.
u 26 au 28 août dernier avait lieu le salon Expo-Prestige au Palais des Congrès de Montréal. Organisé par la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec, l’événement qui réunissait près de 300 exposants a une fois de plus connu un immense succès. Les tendances pour 2013 en matière de bijoux se veulent audacieuses, opulentes et luxueuses, mais aussi classiques, sobres et romantiques. Dans ces allées recouvertes d’un vert luxuriant, le mélange de choix qui s’offrait aux visiteurs laissait sans voix.
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SPECIAL DISTRIBUTION OF CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE AT BASELWORLD 2013 THE WORLD WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW (APRIL 25-MAY 2)
Your opportunity to have your brand in front of the watch and jewellery industry elite
Advertise in this special edition: Olivier Felicio at 416.203.7900 ext. 6107 or olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
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De plus, après quelques années marquées par les teintes monochromes et le style épuré, on ne peut passer sous silence la popularité des bijoux aux couleurs de l’arc-en-ciel qui composent la bijouterie de fantaisie haut de gamme. On retrouve, chez Noor Group, une nouvelle collection importée d’Europe de 1900 pièces, toutes faites de soie colorée, de métaux précieux et de pierres. La flambée des prix de l’or aura eu cet effet sur le monde de la bijouterie; on n’hésite plus à mélanger l’or, l’argent et les gemmes aux matières nobles comme le cuir et les textiles ou à la céramique, par exemple. On voit maintenant, enfilées sur un joli et robuste cordon d’inox ou de cuir, une multitude de breloques toutes plus originales les unes que les autres. En effet, Five Star Gold présentait les nouveautés de la collection Amore & Baci, populaire pour ses bracelets et les perles qui les composent, pendant que le Groupe Ifrah nous en mettait plein la vue avec un choix inusité de bijoux des collections Thomas Sabo, Story, Misaki… Finalement, on dénote l’effet du courant romantique qui inspire les collections pour les saisons à venir. Des chaînes en or rose, des camées, des diamants portés en solitaire, des pavés étincelants, des alliances scintillantes et des manchettes dentelle pour un effet trompe-l’œil attirent le regard. On veut les bagues cocktail ornées d’imposantes pierres semiprécieuses et agrémentées de diamants, on aime aussi les bijoux qui, au cou ou aux oreilles, font l’effet des gouttes de la rosée du matin. Élégance, brillance, féminité et raffinement sont les mots d’ordre. Pour terminer, que vous soyez de type classique, que vous viviez avec le souvenir des dernières décennies du siècle passé, que vous arboriez un style funky ou que vous penchiez pour le glamour, Expo-Prestige nous aura une fois de plus démontré que le monde de la bijouterie sait s’adapter. Et malgré le contexte économique actuel encore frileux, on ose, on rêve et surtout, on laisse libre cours à la passion, la folie et la fantaisie. [CJ]
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Transmettre entreprise et succès à la génération suivante
La transmission d’une entreprise à la génération suivante est une expérience aussi complexe que délicate. Au Canada, le Québec est un terrain fertile pour les PME familiales où les propriétaires finissent souvent par passer le flambeau aux plus jeunes. Outre les aspects financiers, une telle transaction exige de tenir compte des aspirations de chacun et des relations existantes entre les membres de la famille • PAR PIERRE OSTIGUY 60
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ctuellement, environ le tiers des entreprises familiales québécoises passent de la première à la deuxième génération, et 10 % à une troisième. Dans la plupart des cas, parents et nouveau(x) propriétaire(s) commencent par travailler ensemble, mais cette union professionnelle n’est pas sans risque. Toutefois, il existe des moyens d’accorder les violons pour que la transition se déroule dans l’harmonie. Selon les données disponibles, à l’instar de la plupart des gens d’affaires, l’âge auquel un bijoutier professionnel commence à envisager la vente ou la transmission de son entreprise est 50 ans, de façon à ce que la passation des pouvoirs soit accomplie au moment où il franchira le cap des 55 ans environ. Il dispose donc de cinq années pour faire le bilan, vérifier les objectifs et les capacités de ses enfants et décider si le transfert de l’entreprise à la génération suivante est possible et souhaitable. La transmission étant très délicate, elle doit être préparée avec soin, et ce, par les deux parties concernées. La prévoyance et la communication sont les clefs de la réussite. En l’occurrence, elles s’inscrivent dans le cadre de la saine gestion d’une bijouterie.
À 20 ans, elle s’est sentie d’attaque. « Cela fait 7 ans que le processus est enclenché. Après de longues heures de discussion, nous avons consulté un notaire, un comptable et un fiscaliste. Puis, ensemble, nous avons suivi une formation spéciale en transmission d’entreprise. » dit Krystel. C’est que Yves, Andrée et leur fille avaient des objectifs bien définis. « Tout le monde doit y trouver son compte, chacun doit être heureux de sa situation et il n’est pas question que la bijouterie sème la discorde entre nous. La communication et la solidarité sont primordiales. » On a donc redistribué les titres de propriété, mais aussi les tâches. Yves est entré en jeu et s’occupe des aspects administratifs. Il dit vouloir quitter le commerce, pour de bon, dans 2 ou 3 ans. Il approchera alors de la soixantaine. Andrée, pour sa part, est encore très active : « Elle a la bijouterie dans la peau, dit Krystel. Maman parle de retraite dans sept ou huit ans, mais elle pourrait bien décider de rester plus longtemps. » Quant à Krystel, elle est visiblement heureuse dans ses fonctions de chef d’entreprise. UNE FORMATION EST NÉCESSAIRE
Il y a de nombreux motifs pour lesquels on désire passer le flambeau à ses enfants. Souvent, les fondateurs avouent que la satisfaction de transmettre l’entreprise aux enfants est aussi grande que celle qu’ils ont ressentie à la bâtir. De plus, certains sont poussés par l’intention de faire profiter la famille d’une affaire lucrative. Enfin, d’autres croient qu’ils ont une responsabilité envers leurs employés, leurs fournisseurs et leurs clients qui ont tous participé à leur succès. Ainsi, en gardant l’entreprise dans la famille, ils espèrent assurer, aux uns, un avenir et continuer d’off rir, aux autres, une collection de bijoux appréciée de la clientèle et un service d’excellente qualité. POUR BIEN CULTIVER LA « PERLE »
Pour Andrée et Yves Levasseur, copropriétaires de la bijouterie La Perle Rare, la joaillerie et l’horlogerie sont en partie une affaire de famille. En effet, les parents d’Andrée tenaient une bijouterie, à Trois-RivièresOuest. Toutefois, le couple a voulu lancer son propre commerce, au Capde-la-Madeleine, à l’extrémité opposée de l’agglomération trifluvienne. Après 30 ans, leur commerce compte 20 employés et off re une gamme complète de services. Leur fi lle Krystel a toujours su qu’elle prendrait la relève. Déjà toute petite, elle venait souvent au magasin. Adolescente, elle y a travaillé les weekends et l’été. Mais avant d’entrer dans le domaine, Krystel a fait ses études en marketing et entrepreneuriat, puis a aussi occupé des emplois ailleurs.
Le Conseil québécois du commerce de détail (CQCD) a à cœur de mettre à la disposition des propriétaires d’établissement de vente des futurs entrepreneurs instruits et compétents. Il participe donc à la mise sur pied de programmes d’études qui forment une main-d’œuvre qualifiée dans le domaine. Ceux-ci sont donnés dans une trentaine de cégeps répartis sur tout le territoire québécois. DEP EN VENTE-CONSEIL
Ce programme permet aux jeunes d’acquérir les compétences nécessaires pour la vente : communication avec la clientèle, conseil, techniques de vente, etc. AEC EN GESTION DE COMMERCES
Cette formation prépare des gestionnaires en devenir à assurer le fonctionnement d’un établissement de vente au détail. DEC EN GESTION DE COMMERCES
Ce programme prépare les élèves à gérer un commerce et à superviser une équipe dans un établissement commercial ou une entreprise. DEP : DIPLÔME D’ÉTUDES PROFESSIONNELLES
AEC : Attestation d’études collégiales DEC : Diplôme d’études collégiales [CJ] WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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Une relève qui vaut son pesant d’or En 1986, Lynn Blais achetait le commerce qui allait devenir la bijouterie Pierlyn. À cette époque, Annie Timbers était loin de se douter que 20 ans plus tard, elle rachèterait la bijouterie de Mme Blais. Aujourd’hui, Mme Timbers poursuit l’œuvre de sa mère ; voici donc le portrait d’une entrepreneure passionnée. Par VÉronique DubÉ
Portrait d’une jeune bijoutière | Annie Timbers
D’aussi loin que Mme Timbers se souvienne, la bijouterie a toujours fait partie de son quotidien. Dès son plus jeune âge, elle y admirait les joyaux qui brillaient dans les comptoirs. Plus tard, à l’adolescence, elle y a travaillé les week-ends et pendant le temps des Fêtes. Une fois rendue au cégep, elle poursuivit ses études en éducation à l’enfance. Toutefois, quelque temps après sa formation, elle se rendit compte que le domaine de la vente et le contact avec le public lui manquaient. Bien que le domaine de la bijouterie l’intéressait, elle savait que sa mère travaillait très dur pour maintenir le fort. De plus, préparer la relève du commerce signifiait en quelque sorte qu’elle allait reprendre son rôle. La jeune femme avait alors 22 ans et tout compte fait, elle était prête pour ce défi. C’est ainsi que Mme Blais lui transmit le flambeau. Respecter la culture de l’entreprise
Le domaine de la bijouterie traditionnelle est conservateur dans sa manière d’opérer. Mme Timbers n’avait pas l’intention de chambouler l’œuvre de sa mère. En premier lieu, pour la jeune bijoutière, poursuivre la tradition où le client occupe une place privilégiée était indispensable. « Dans la façon de faire les choses, je n’ai pas fait de grands changements. Ma mère vient encore donner un coup de main pendant le temps des Fêtes et mon père répare les bijoux. J’ai simplement mis la bijouterie à ma main. Je ne voulais
pas changer une formule gagnante… » me confiait-elle lors de notre entretien. Cependant, elle lui a apporté un vent de renouveau. D’abord, elle est à l’affût des nouvelles technologies dans le domaine, surtout en ce qui a trait aux réparations, aux modifications et à la personnalisation des bijoux. En effet, Mme Timbers participait en octobre dernier à l’événement Bridge organisé par la compagnie américaine Stuller, qui s’adresse aux propriétaires de bijouterie ayant le désir de devenir le bijoutier de demain. Ensuite, elle visite régulièrement les expositions de bijoux. En plus d’y prendre un réel plaisir, elle apprécie le fait de pouvoir comparer les différents produits offerts par les fournisseurs, et ce, sous un même toit. Finalement, Mme Timbers s’assure de toujours satisfaire ses fidèles clients en leur offrant différents services en magasin — la modification, le remodelage et la réparation de bijoux, la réparation de montres, la gravure, la soudure au laser et l’achat de vieil or — et en diversifiant le choix des bijoux offerts. Faire face aux défis
Bien entendu, lorsqu’un nouvel acheteur acquiert un commerce ayant appartenu pendant plusieurs années au même propriétaire, une période d’adaptation s’impose pour la clientèle. Même si l’entreprise avait appartenu à sa mère et que les clients connaissaient bien Mme Timbers, lorsqu’on a 25 ans et qu’on rachète une bijouterie, il faut rebâtir la confiance des clients.
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et ma présence dans la bijouterie a attiré de nouveaux clients. » disait-telle. Aujourd’hui, Mme Timbers est heureuse de pouvoir compter sur une clientèle diversifiée. La bijouterie Pierlyn est située dans la municipalité de Thurso, à environ 30 minutes de Gatineau. Pour contrer l’éloignement et afi n de fidéliser sa clientèle, Mme Timbers mise beaucoup sur la publicité dans les journaux locaux. Aussi, chaque année, à l’occasion des Fêtes, un catalogue est distribué aux portes des maisons des municipalités de la Petite-Nation. LA CLÉ DU SUCCÈS
« Quand les clients entrent dans une bijouterie et qu’ils voient des vendeurs de moins de 30 ans, il y en a qui font demi-tour. C’est dommage, mais on doit faire avec [sic]. Par contre, j’ai la chance de faire équipe avec Mado, qui est avec nous depuis maintenant 23 ans. Elle a sa clientèle bien à elle
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Pour Mme Timbers, le service à la clientèle demeure le secret de sa réussite. Au-delà de l’achat, chaque visite doit être mémorable. Ainsi, elle parle avec ses clients, elle leur off re de faire des emballages, de nettoyer leurs bijoux pendant qu’ils magasinent et elle ne laisse jamais un client partir dans le doute ou l’air insatisfait. D’ailleurs, Mme Timbers croit qu’une atmosphère où règne la transparence est fondamentale. Quand on lui parle de sa bijouterie, son enthousiasme est contagieux et sa passion pour son métier est flagrante. Nul doute qu’elle saura porter le flambeau pour encore plusieurs années. [CJ]
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Elegant “Trio” necklace with sophisticated workmanship design
European designed “duo” ring in 925 silver, with no sizing necessary
925 silver rhodium-finished cuff bracelet with silk rope string set with cubic zirconia
“Evil Eye” bracelet in sterling silver with cz set in pave style
Trendy hand crafted silk rope bracelet available in many different styles and colors
“Hamsa” necklace in a yellow bonded sterling silver
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coverstory
ALL IN THE
FAMILY A FOCUS ON EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE IS HOW DAVID FREW, WITH SON MICHAEL BY HIS SIDE, HAS BEEN ABLE TO GROW STAR-SET JEWELLERS
BY CYNDI MILLS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRENDAN BURDEN
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tumbling into the business world of gems and jewels has proven to be a successful venture for David Frew, taking the Ottawa Valley boy to new heights. Growing up in the small community of Deacon, Ontario, located on the shores of Golden Lake, Frew admits he had an entrepreneurial spirit at a young age. Entering the job market back in the late 1970s, he was looking for something more than a nine-to- five job, and more importantly a career that would allow him to stay in Renfrew County.
“I wanted to stay in the area to work, but finding a job wasn’t easy,” says David. He approached his cousin’s husband about becoming a watch repairman. Handing him a book on jewellery repair, that relative directed him to the world of jewellery. That was in 1977. Since then David hasn’t looked back. Entering the world of jewellery as a repairman, diamond appraiser and goldsmith, David set up shop in Foymount, Ontario, a small village located 125 kilometres west of Ottawa. Today the village could be considered a ghost town, as most of the industry has relocated or closed down over the years, a challenge David has had to overcome when it comes to growing his business in small towns located in Ontario’s largest county.
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“We started out with the philosophy of providing honest, trustworthy, quality work and we have never strayed from that,” explains David. Spending four years in Foymount, David relocated his repair business to the quaint community of Eganville in 1981, where he opened his first location of StarSet Jewellers. He went on to open his next location in Arnprior in 1988 and his third location in Renfrew in 1996, covering all the key markets in the county. Since entering the jewellery business, David has strived to provide excellent customer service to his customers and he is reaping the rewards over 30 years later. Not only does he continue to serve his original customers, but he and his helpful staff are now serving their children and grandchildren.
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“We started out with the philosophy of providing honest, trustworthy, quality work and we have never strayed from that.
”
“It’s a generation business,” explains David. “People that I have sold to when I first started in 1981, now their children, their teenage sons and daughters are coming in.” David’s oldest son, Michael, joined him in 1998. Having grown up in the business, Michael spent his teenage life working at the Eganville store. When it came time to pursue a career after high school, Michael made the decision to follow in his dad’s footsteps because he enjoyed the multitude of tasks that filled his day. To secure themselves in the local jewellery market, the men decided to relocate the flagship store in 2006 from Eganville to the City of Pembroke, a major shopping destination for residents living in the Upper Ottawa Valley, as well as western Quebec. Moving the store to Pembroke offered them the opportunity to retail their products to a larger demographic. They were also entering a market that had seven other jewellery stores. With approximately 75,000 potential customers, the market might have been considered over saturated. “In a market this size there should be only three stores,” admits Michael, but over the years StarSet Jewellers has thrived in Pembroke and in the Ottawa Valley, something the men credit to their one-hour, on-site express ring sizing and jewellery repair service. “This has proven to be very successful,” explains David. The men also credit their close ties to the
community. “Our customers are our friends,” Michael notes. Along with providing top-notch service for their customers, the men have also had numerous longstanding employees, with the majority of them having working for the company over 10 years. Their staff roster includes 15 employees, three of which are goldsmiths and one certified watch repairman. In a rare move, all Star-Set Jewellers locations are closed on Sundays, and if Christmas Eve happens to fall on Sunday, the employees have the day off. “While it may not be for everyone, it is important to us to have a day set aside from business,” explains Michael. According to David, the business philosophy behind Star-Set Jewellers is a straightforward one: “We expect our employees to serve each customer the way they would like to be served in terms of knowledge and courtesy, and most, importantly, in an honest manner.” Staff training covers two main areas: the handling of repairs and sales. In terms of repairs, Michael and David have 45 combined years of experience with every type of jewellery repair, and that level of knowledge is passed over to each of the staff. “We show them what to look for when taking in jobs for repair,” David says. All custom jewellery work is usually handled by Michael or David, on an appointment basis. Store managers take care of the sales training side of the business.
Interlocking watch with 37mm interlocking GG bezel and black, sun-brushed dial by Gucci
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On route to his Arnprior store back in 1997, David was sitting at a red light when he looked up and saw a plane preparing to land at the Arnprior Airport. He quickly noted to himself, “you can fly an airplane.” Right after work he drove to the airport to inquire about flight lessons. “I was hooked right then and there,” admits David. Six months later he had his pilot’s license. But he didn’t stop there. Over three years, and when he could fit in the time, David obtained his pilot’s license for single engine, single engine 1 FR, twin engine, twin engine 1 FR and commercial multi engine FR. “It is more than a business tool, it’s a passion,” explains David. His plane is parked at the Pembroke and Area Airport. When the time comes to travel to Toronto he flies to Toronto Island, located in the heart of Canada’s largest city.
“We are fortunate to have managers in each of the stores with many years of jewellery experience,” he says.
He notes his plane is easy to spot on the tarmac — it is the only one with a yellow Support Our Troops Ribbon on the tail, a demographic the Frew men have valued over the years at their Star-Set Jewellers Pembroke location. The store is situated mere kilometres from one of Canada’s largest military bases. The military was also the inspiration behind the men’s signature line of Ribbon Jewellery, which “has been a great success,” says David.
David admits it was an inconvenience because the stores are located over four hours from the epicenter of the Canadian jewellery world. In the early days of his business David made the long trek to Toronto in his vehicle. By happenstance David turned in the wear and tear on his vehicle (and nerves) and took to the skies, getting his pilot’s license.
Michael recounts how the men stumbled into the niche line a few years ago when the troops from CFB Petawawa were deployed to Afghanistan. A soldier’s girlfriend approached the jewellers to create a gold ribbon with the objective of supporting the troops. The jewellers jumped at the chance. That was the beginning of Ribbon Jewellery. Over the years the line grew from a single gold ribbon to include chains, charms, earrings, pendants, pins and rings, which are created in white, pink and yellow gold. And in an effort to support their local military community, the store donates $10 from every purchase to the Petawawa Military Family Resource Centre, an organization that supports military families.
“It is one of the best things I have done,” says David. “Instead of battling four and half hours of traffic I am back in Pembroke in one hour and five minutes.”
“To date we have donated over $5,000 from the sales of Ribbon Jewellery,” explains David. The foundation of the business has been their efforts in the sales and marketing sphere.
With the goal of staying in Eastern Ontario, David has faced his share of challenges, one being the long commute to Toronto to purchase jewellery, meet with jewellery producers, and make special orders.
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David notes: “As important as customer service and repairs are, sales of course drives the growth of the store. We have developed excellent working relationships with a number of companies in Toronto.” On top of quick and efficient service and their unique Ribbon Jewellery line, customers will also find the Beverly Hills Jewellers, ELLE Jewelry, PANDORA Jewellery and Gucci watch line at Star-Set Jewellers. The men keep up with the newest trends and latest technology by travelling to tradeshows in New York, Las Vegas and Italy. “You have to if you want to be current,” explains David. It was at a tradeshow where David witnessed the power of the laser-welding machine. He loved the product, the results and how simple and easy it was to operate. “I saw it on display,” recounts David. “The salesman had me weld four ball bearings, without burning my hands. I just realized then and there this technology allowed us to do better, safer work.” Since then the men have purchased two laser-welding machines, allowing them, “to complete our jobs faster, cleaner and with superior quality,” notes Michael. Before David embarked into the world of jewellery, he married Marlene back in 1976. The couple has three children — Michael, Heather and Ryan. David proudly admits Heather is a social worker and Ryan is a civil engineer.
Last year David became a grandfather for the first time, welcoming two grandchildren, and this year he will become a grandparent again. As for working together day in and day out, Michael notes he and his dad are more than a father-son team. “We are friends and that is rare,” he says. Although, they have had their share of differences, Michael explains they are able to work them out by talking through them. “We are in this together,” admits Michael. One might expect the men to live in a larger urban centre, but both men still call the small village of Deacon their home. Staying close to their roots is important to the duo. And although they run a successful jewellery business in Ontario’s largest county, both men call themselves, “good old valley boys.” “We enjoy hunting, fishing and playing hockey on the pond with our family,” says Michael. David admits he is happy to have Michael at his side and confides, “My hope is that someone in his family will get into the business.” A business both men love very much. [CJ]
AT A GLANCE Star-Set Jewellers Number of stores: 3 Products and Services: Diamonds, jewellery, watches, giftware, repairs, custom work, engraving, mounts Locations: Pembroke, Renfrew, Arnprior Staff: 12 Website: www.starsetjewellers.com Top-selling products/brands: Gucci, Pandora, Howard Miller, Citizen, ELLE Jewelry, Beverly Hills Jewellers
Pendant featuring pear-shaped citrine set with diamonds weighing 0.07ct. (Beverly Hills Jewellers)
Sterling silver “Perimeter” collection black and red agate toggle bracelet (ELLE Jewelry, $399)
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4 EVER
STAR NIGHT BASH Sponsored by Ever magazine, Movado and Canadian Ice, this night of style and music saw the jewellery industry’s heavy-hitters and some of Canada’s most prominent celebs mix it up at Tappo wine bar in Toronto’s Distillery District.
Antonio Cupo (star of Bomb Girls) with Olivier Felicio (Publisher & Editor-in-Chief of Canadian Jeweller and Ever magazines)
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Steve Reale (JSN/Canadian Ice SVP) with Shayne Corson (Owner of Tappo & former NHL player)
Tara Spencer-Nairn (star of Corner Gas) shows off her Movado watch
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cjevents Natalie Glebova (Miss Universe 2005 & Canadian Ice ambassador) with Brent Trepel (Ben Moss President & CEO)
Nick Greco (Movado) & John Cassini (star of The Bridge) Olivier Felicio (Publisher & Editor-in-Chief of Canadian Jeweller and Ever magazines) with Gabrielle Miller (star of Corner Gas)
Heather Wahlquist (star of The Notebook) & Olivier Felicio (Publisher & Editorin-Chief of Canadian Jeweller and Ever magazines)
Justyn Warner, Oluseyi Smith & Gavin Smellie (Canadian Olympic Relay Team)
Stacey McKenzie (supermodel) & Gabrielle Miller (star of Corner Gas) share a laugh www.canadianjeweller.com
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internationalmarketreview
Ireland inspires Irish jewellery offers a touchstone to the past and a vision for the future— something that interests a lot of Canadians • BY MARGUERITE BOURKE
D
espite the recent economic downturn, Irish craft and design is growing considerably; the craft sector in Ireland is worth €500 million to the Irish economy.
Currently, 25 per cent of Irish jewellery is exported; however, that figure is expected to rise as more designers focus on international markets, including Canada. Ross O’Colmain, SVP Enterprise Ireland, Canada, comments: “Enterprise Ireland has been working with leading Irish jewellery designers to accelerate their exposure in the Canadian market. We have had a very positive response from local Canadian buyers who embrace the story that Irish designers are conveying through their inherently distinctive pieces.”
TJH 14k white gold ring set with .60cts of Colombian emeralds and .50cts of diamonds
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AUTHENTIC AND UNIQUE
The global recession has caused consumers to become more discerning about their purchases; while they may be buying less, they want to invest in gifts that are authentic and unique, and that will last. Retailers and consumers alike are considering the story behind a product and asking if it has something modern and contemporary to say, as well as authenticity.
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internationalmarketreview In celebrating the unique provenance of Irish craft, the Crafts Council of Ireland developed a new consumer brand to encourage consumers to buy Irish craft: “Imagined, Designed, Made in Ireland.” As part of its drive to bring Irish craft and design to a global audience, 10 Irish jewellers recently participated at Inhorgenta, the major international trade fair in Munich, Germany under the “Imagined, Designed, Made in Ireland” brand. “Since the time of the Celts, Ireland has been internationally renowned for its quality jewellery making, and we are on a journey to recapture this reputation, traceability, authenticity,” says Brian McGee, Head of Market Development at the Crafts Council of Ireland. “And ultimately, communicating the story of Ireland and our heritage to consumers is a crucial factor to the selling process, and is all a part of this uniquely Irish brand.”
nature to produce intricate designs based on simple motifs, using gold, bronze and silver. Triskeles, spirals, animal motifs and later crosses were woven into Celtic knotwork designs in rings, torcs, bracelets, earrings, brooches and pendants. Craft jewellery in Ireland is mostly hand made in hallmarked sterling silver, though a recent trend of mixing materials has emerged: adding touches of gold to silver. Today Irish jewellery designers continue to be inspired by their Celtic roots and heritage, while embracing design and innovation. The Crafts Council of Ireland is the main champion of the craft sector and has been working with the Irish jewellery sector to promote the quality, authenticity and evolution of jewellery design, at home and overseas.
RICH TRADITIONS
When you consider Irish jewellery, and how it has evolved over time, one trait is consistent: virtually every piece has a meaning or story behind it. Ireland has a rich history of jewellery design, which can be traced to its Celtic roots. As far back as 2000 BC, Celtic craftsmen adapted ideas from
“There is no single design aesthetic in Ireland,” says McGee. “While Celtic designs are perhaps the best known, especially internationally, Irish art colleges have been producing extremely passionate and creative new designers who have brought a real sense of contemporary design and innovation to the sector.”
Jean Butler with her sterling silver jewellery
GETTING TO KNOW IRISH JEWELLERY DESIGNERS
Solvar’s “History of Ireland” is a collection of hand-crafted jewellery from Ireland. Each piece in the collection is engraved with panels that represent some of the most significant eras in Irish history. It begins with the Celtic swirl dating back to the Neolithic age, right through to the Partition of Ireland in 1920. Available in 14k gold and sterling silver, the collection includes rings, bracelets, pendants, earrings, cufflinks and brooches. TJH design wedding rings, hand-made in their Dublin workshop, in a combination of metals, including sterling silver, 10k, 14k, 18k and platinum. Their Eternal Celtic Wedding Band Collection sells very well in North America, and the rings denote an appreciation of Celtic heritage and design. JMH Manufacturing is a similar story: a family-run business in Dublin producing Irish classic jewellery, bearing the Irish Hallmark that you will find on every single piece. As is the case for Irish designers, the “Made in Ireland” stamp conveys the quality and workmanship that has been passed down through the generations.
Jean Butler is a well known Irish name. She’s famous for her leading role in the international Irish dancing phenomenon, Riverdance. She has designed jewellery called The Jean Butler Jewellery Collection, which captures her charm, grace and finesse perfectly, while subtly reminding the wearer of Irish heritage. The Jean Butler Collection observes and recognizes the many diverse aspects of Ireland’s character in a most unique and contemporary manner. Each piece is carefully crafted in sterling silver, complemented by gold toning. Ireland is leading the way with some of its newer, innovative designers inspired by Ireland’s past, yet moving toward more unique, edgier designs.
TJH wedding band, with yellow gold Celtic braided centre with polished gold rims
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Christina Brosnan, grew up in County Clare, a hotbed of craft, inspired by her mother, who made fine Irish lace. The wild Irish landscape has influenced her designs, and her collections feature threedimensional bead-weaving techniques. Christina has recently introduced her new collections, “Contour” and “Osseous.” Both collections use sterling silver or 14k rolled gold with semi-precious gemstone and bone. The pieces in this collection are dual purpose; they can be worn as a necklace or in your hair, for example. Christina explains, “This gives them a ‘transformer’ Christina Brosnan with her osseous tube type quality and makes necklace, bone and them playful pieces.” 14k gold fill
A former sculptor turned goldsmith, Martina Hamilton is one of Ireland’s leading producers of contemporary Irish jewellery. She takes a figurative, experimental approach to making jewellery, working mainly sterling silver with 18k gold accents. For more than 20 years, her distinct, award-winning international brands, including “Spirit of Ireland,” have been designed and handcrafted in her rural studio in the west of Ireland. Inspired by the poetry of Yeats and the beauty of her local landscape, Martina continues to design new jewellery collections, her latest being “Oyster Pearl” and “Full Moon.” Pearls catch the light, and reflect and contrast with either textured or polished metal surfaces in the Oyster Pearl collection. Full Moon, Ice Moon and Blue Moon pendants embellished with precious stones represent the seasonal moons. Maureen Lynch’s designs espouse elegant simplicity and high quality. Each piece is pared down and sculptural, eliminating all manner of fuss.
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“I fell in love with metal 20 years ago,” says Lynch. It has been an ongoing affair. “Simplicity is what I like. My pieces take their cue from the body itself. I always bear in mind the contours of the body when designing, so that the wearer feels comfortable and at ease.” Her signature oval perfume bottles on a silver chain come with a swatch of linen inside them that you can spritz with your favourite scent so that you and only you can smell it. You can also keep a lock of hair, a love poem or photograph inside. Lynch says, “I keep a child’s drawing in mine.” This collection has flourishes of gold in its silverwork, so people can mix and match it with their jewellery. Fiona Kerr’s “Celtic Chaos” collection is a modern mix of Celtic designs, coupled with the chaotic randomness of nature. Kerr explains, “The inspiration for Celtic Chaos came from a couple of different directions, I liked the idea of getting movement into my work, but without it looking too mechanical or over engineered. By having the silver balls rolling around inside, you get movement and sound, something to engage the wearer. The spiral design came from a combination of influences from Celtic art and the geometry in nature. When I look at this range, I often think about swirling galaxies.” The holes in the top layer of silver are all drilled individually, so no two items are the same. Using silver and 22k yellow gold for this design brings it to life, enhancing the three dimensional form. The polished gold surface on the inside almost makes it look as if there is a light inside. [CJ] Marguerite Bourke is VP, Consumer Retail, Enterprise Ireland, Canada, which is the Irish Government’s trade development board responsible for the acceleration of Irish businesses in global markets. Fiona Kerr Celtic Chaos silver and 22k yellow gold bi-metal
Martina Hamilton oyster pearl pendant, sterling silver with cultured freshwater pearl
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Sea Creature rings featuring tsavorites, rubies and a 17.77-carat helidor beryl centre stone (Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds, $6,000)
THE
COLOUR WHEEL OF FORTUNE Bridal and fashion categories get a splash of colour as investors and consumers opt for coloured stones By Charlotte Percival-Gonzalez
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igh market demand for new stars like tanzanite and tourmaline have started to convince jewellers that adding a touch of colour to their product mix will keep their inventory current and add a little spice to their showcases.
The colourful gem craze is dominated by high-end stones that don’t necessarily come with high-end prices. A high-end tanzanite offers a deep blue reminiscent of an expensive sapphire, and for a fraction of the cost. Other favourites include tsavorite and the aforementioned tourmaline, which offer a vibrant hue that some designers feel has the edge over more traditional stones like emeralds and rubies. The popularity of large stones also has designers upping their game. Recent trends include a hunger for large pieces incorporating various gemstones set together — colourful earrings, rings, pendants, bangles and bracelets.
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Fancy yellow 6.66-carat diamond stud earrings set in platinum (Julius Klein)
However, when it comes to colour, even these pieces are trumped by coloured diamonds. Coloured diamonds have more brilliance than coloured stones, says Michael Sapir of Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds, especially if they are accented by tiny white diamonds. They are more exclusive than many other centre stones, which is a real draw for consumers. BRIDAL TRENDS TAKE A TURN
When it comes to bridal offerings, celebrity endorsements for coloured stones have certainly helped build the trend and kept it going. Jessica Simpson’s Burmese 4 ct ruby and diamond ring, Penelope Cruz’s blue sapphire engagement ring, and Halle Berry’s 4 ct emerald, affirm that coloured gemstones are here to stay. While white diamonds make up the core of the bridal jewellery business, strong contenders in yellow and pink shades are breaking through, with people willing to pay top dollar for the perfect cushion-cut or radiant-cut yellow centre stone. Recent high prices for coloured diamonds and gemstones have introduced some exceptional jewels into the marketplace, including an $8 million vivid yellow super-saturated pear-shaped diamond weighing nearly 33 cts, at a recent Christie’s auction.
Other top sellers include a 7.04 ct Burmese ruby, which sold for $2.9 million in Hong Kong in 2010, and a 24.78 ct fancy intense pink diamond that went for $46 million in Geneva the same year. BETTER MARKETING NEEDED
Even though demand is rising for these gems, it’s not all sunshine and roses in the world of coloured gemstones. One disadvantage coloured gemstones — and coloured diamonds — have over their white diamond counterparts is the way they are marketed. Despite celebrities opting for brightly hued rocks, white diamonds still lead in the bridal stakes, with coloured diamonds occasionally creeping in, and gemstones hardly ever. “Marketing for coloured gemstones for the most part is only as fashion pieces,” says Sapir. Diamonds are marketed mainly for the engagement. That’s why diamonds have a big advantage over coloured gemstones. “I think the standard for the industry is that diamonds are particular for engagement,” he says. Eddie LeVian, CEO at Le Vian, says colour diamonds are “10,000 times” more rare than white diamonds and are usually underpriced because they are not understood.
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“Lately they have risen in price and have shown great investment potential,” he says. “We brand all of our gems with edible flavours of Le Vian, from Chocolate Diamonds to Cotton Candy Amethyst, and 75 more flavours.” LeVian explains that his brand tries to maximize the impact of colour when it comes to marketing their jewellery products. “Le Vian is all about colour,” he says. “We are masters of using the top five per cent of colour and have redefined the colour diamond and the colour gemstone industries with innovative combinations of colours and trend-setting designs.” Another consideration is the colour itself. While some colours may be extremely stylish for one season, that popularity can wane depending on the time of year and the occasion. “Blues are always hot,” says LeVian. “Nowadays, it’s all about neon as well – neon blues and neon tangerine. And yellow is also very big. But most of all, people like the down-to-earth yet passionate feel of the chocolate shade.” SLOW GROWTH
Others are more cautious about the impact of coloured gemstones on the industry. While yellow diamonds are big stars in Canada this year, only around one in 10 jewellers regularly stock them, with large pieces or higher carats bought to order. It’s simply too much of a risk to stock them year-round. This is true of coloured gemstones, too. Thanks to an uncertain world economy and slowdown in consumer spending, gem dealers are very cautious about keeping inventory, says Wolf Kuehn of the Canadian Institute of Gemmology.
Fancy yellow diamond drop earrings set in platinum and 18K yellow gold (Julius Kliein)
“Even lower quality gemstones of the type sold at discounters and eBay are not selling too well,” he says. “However, at the recent JCK Jewellery Show in Las Vegas, high-end and designer pieces sold quite briskly.”
“Instead of rubies,
people use pink tourmaline. It has a more vibrant colour. Rubies are duller.
”
Funky apple fashion ring featuring tsavorites, diamonds and rubies (Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds, $7,435)
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Camera. Clarity. Criminal. Caught. The Four C’s of the JVC Crime Alert.
JVC Crime Alerts provide timely information and photographs on jewellery crime in Canada that may help protect your store from fraud, diamond thefts or diamond switches. This valuable service is part of the JVC Crime Prevention Package, which also includes: • Crime Prevention Manual (CD format) • Access to JVC’s Security Library
• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures • Security Supplier directory
Visit www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536 to sign up for your 2012 JVC Crime Prevention Package.
Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS In partnership with
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productfocus Diamond line bracelet featuring 25 radiant cut diamonds weighing 50.97ct (Julius Klein)
A LUXURIOUS COMMODITY
For the most part, argues Michael Sapir, less than one per cent of people will buy gemstones over diamonds. “Diamonds are like a commodity, gemstones are not,” he points out. “They’re all over the place with pricing, whereas diamonds have a listed price and pretty much all over the world is one type of price.” That could make coloured diamonds a fairly strong investment, especially high-end stones with fewer inclusions and rich, intense colours, as noted by Christie’s last year, when it reported strong gains in per-carat prices for top quality coloured diamonds. Not everyone is against funneling their money into gemstones. Last year, bond guru Jeffrey Gundlach, of Double Line Capital, suggested squirreling away gemstones, pointing out that an investor could carry $25 million worth in their socks. His comments annoyed investor Marc Faber, who argued that following an economic collapse, gold would be in higher demand than gemstones. However, last year, some dealers reported that even gemstones of average quality were up 20 per cent, with high quality rubies doubling in two years and spinel rising swiftly.
While retailers continue to see the value in stocking diamonds, some stones have emerged on the scene as popular new contenders. Tsavorite, tourmaline, tanzanite and jadeite have managed to push some old favourites out of the limelight. “Instead of emeralds you can have tsavorite or green tourmaline, which is a very good substitute,” says Sapir. “Instead of rubies, people use pink tourmaline. It has a more vibrant colour, rubies are duller.” Some semi-precious stones like amethyst, citrine and blue topaz are also selling well. While there is ongoing demand for top quality gemstones, untreated rubies, emeralds and sapphires are extremely rare and costly, notes Kuehn. This has not been the case in the rest of the world. There has CJ n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 |
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A STEADY FUTURE
Wolf Kuehn does not anticipate much of a swing in consumer tastes this year, although the desire for something bigger, more spectacular and more affordable is always there. This often means settling for a treated stone, warns Kuehn, which must be disclosed to the consumer. Meanwhile, Michael Sapir believes morganite will gain recognition. “For some reason they have been used by bigger houses, like Gucci,” he says. “Also green aquamarine has been used in order to be a little bit more different and unique. Pricing, I think, is somewhere in the middle. That’s why other houses try to use it, because they can use larger pieces, not as expensive, but more unique. You can get more value for it.” Rest assured the colourful diamond and gemstone trends are here to stay, and retailers should keep that in mind when making purchases for the upcoming holiday season. [CJ] COLOURED STONE JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE
NEW SOURCES
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been a growing demand for emeralds in Asia and the Middle East, where they have religious and astrological connections, and carat prices have risen 1,000 per cent.
Best Bargains 413.214.2582 www.bbjw.com
La Pierre Precieuse 877.861.3595 www.lppgems.com
Ready Mounts 416.366.4046 www.readymounts.com
Creation Le Grenier 888.388.4736 www.ethanstars.com
Lotus Jewellery 877.593.0922 www.kameleonjewellery.ca
Rembrandt Charms 800.387.5238 www.rembrandtcharms.ca
Crescendo Jewellery 800.387.0111 www.siffari.com
Malo Creations Inc. 416.682.6561 www.maloinc.ca
Shiny Jewellers 416 367.0707 www.shinyjewellers.com
Imperial Gems & Jewels Ltd. 866. 211.7778 www.imperialgem.com
Mirage 877.BY MIRAGE www.miragecreations.com
Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com
Jeffrey Ross Jewellery & Dimples 905.852.2050 www.jeffreyrossjewellery.com
Noor Group International 514.321.3793 info@noorgroup.ca
Lili Jewelry 212.302.0166 www.lilijewelry.com
PAJ/Elle 905.752.2080 www.ellejewelry.com
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24 Gold Group Ltd., Gold Dealers & Refining Company was established in Canada and overseas by Mr. Kamel Hanna in 1987. Since then 24 Gold Group Ltd. has developed a valuable and trusting relationship with multiple customers involved in the jewellery business and also with individual clients. Services provided are precious metal refining on premises while you wait, purchase of precious metals, i.e. Gold, Silver, Platinum & Dental. Also we sell Bullion Gold bars, Silver and Platinum. All our prices are based on market value. We provide the same quality service to any size of business under the instruction and direction of Mr. Kamel Hanna. You can find more information on our web site, www.24gold.ca and live market prices or call us at 1-855-214 2442 for a special quote. Feel free to contact us for any questions you might have. Our staff will be glad to assist you.
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newgeneration
PASSING THE TORCH
Many younger generations of jewellers grew up with the opportunity to learn the ropes from their parents – so it’s only natural for them to take the reigns when the time is right
By Irina Lytchak Dedication yields result
Eric Lux, co-owner and director of operations at Rembrandt Charms, says that he grew up in the business, so it wasn’t a huge surprise when he eventually decided to pursue working with his father at the age of 19. “It’s kind of like a second home to me,” says the 25-year-old Lux. “As soon as I could walk, my dad threw a broom in my hand. This is where I spent a lot of my time as a young child and every vacation, every holiday from school, I was working here.”
4.
Rembrandt Charms, officially known to have the world’s largest charm collection, is based out of Buffalo and runs a factory in Toronto. Eric Lux recalls that his father, Chris, had a passion for giftware and the jewellery industry very early on and launched the brand about 43 years ago. “I think as he was exploring where he wanted to pursue his passion and what niche would be good for him, and that’s what really led him to terms,” explains Lux. His father apparently ran the first venture out of his parents’ chicken coop in the backyard of their family home, eventually expanding to the basement of the house and then renting his first building several years later. In 1980, Rembrandt Charms moved to their current location and have been enjoying years of expansion ever since. Pramedra Baid from La Pierre Precieuse Inc. (1), Lucy Stein from MCD Pearl Imports and Premier Diamonds (2), Steve Levy from Ottimo Creations (3), Eric Lux from Rembrandy Charms (4) 1.
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2.
3.
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EMBIX - (800)361-6247, www.EMBIX.com
EMBIX - (800)361-6247, www.EMBIX.com
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newgeneration
“I really like the design aspect of my job. It’s all about being inspired by new materials, going to shows, seeing interesting things and trying to incorporate that and experiment and make new pieces.
”
“I’m really fortunate to have the family that I have and the opportunities that they’ve allowed me to have,” says Lux. “At the same time, my parents have let me fail; they’ve given me all the tools to succeed, but when I wasn’t sure if something would work out, they definitely let me fall on my face a few times to understand how it happens.” About two years ago, Chris Lux developed a passion for the manufacturing aspect of the business and has been splitting his time between Buffalo and Toronto to oversee that process more. This has opened a door for his son to have more of a leadership role at the Buffalo location. “It’s been great experience and trying to figure out what are the best ways to improve our product and the current line we have,” says Eric Lux. “I find so many companies try to focus on change and how they can do things better on different fronts and beating new fashions and I think the most important thing is to focus on how you can make your current products better.” Admirable work ethic
MCD Pearl Imports and Premier Diamonds took root in Cape Town, South Africa when Lucy Stein’s grandfather worked in a factory polishing diamonds. Her father, Peter, eventually got into the same industry by working at his father’s factory, learning all of the steps of polishing before becoming a diamond dealer himself. Today, Lucy Stein is a designer specializing in diamonds, pearls and semi-precious stone jewellery at MCD pearl Imports. “I really like the design aspect of my job,” she says. “It’s all about being inspired by new materials, going to shows, seeing interesting things and trying to incorporate that and experiment and make new pieces.” It’s obvious that besides her passion for her job, Stein also holds her father in high regard. “[My father] takes a lot of pride in his work,” she explains. “He’s not happy with a piece until it’s perfect. And he’ always trying to educate the consumer rather than just working on selling them the most expensive thing.” Destined to be
Steve Levy is the second-generation CEO of Ottimo Creations. In 1960,
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Levy had just graduated from law school when he decided to switch gears and enter into the struggling family business. “I decided that I owed something to the company, so I decided not to pursue law, and went into the business instead. I used to work there during the summer – in the shipping department, so I guess it was sort of in my blood.” Levy recalls that his father gave him and his brother the opportunity to expand on their own terms, and today, Ottimo Creations is a flourishing Montreal-based jewellery importer and manufacturer that carries lines like TW Steel and Marc Cobelens. Levy’s daughter used to be part of the business, but had to leave due to a change in location. “I wish that my daughter would still be a part [of the business],” he says. “I would love for her to be running the whole thing – but we’ve been in the business for a long time and have obviously made some right choices.” Family legacy
Pramendra Baid says that official titles do not receive a lot of importance in his family’s business but that his role at La Pierre Précieuse Inc. spans everything from sales and marketing of the jewellery and loose stones to purchasing, financing and overseeing all of the manufacturing processes. It sounds like a lot but Baid assures that it’s a family effort. Like many other younger generations in the jewellery business, Baid recalls helping his parents out with their business from a very young age. “In high school, I remember accompanying my father on buying trips abroad,” he says. “I continued to help out regularly during vacations and in between classes while at university – I studied at Concordia for my Bachelor’s degree and McGill for my MBA.” Baid’s family has been involved in jewellery for over four generations in India, and when asked if there is anything else he would do if he wasn’t working for the family business, his response is a propos. “I really love this business,” he explains. “Jewellery is in my blood and it’s what I think about all the time.” [CJ]
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Advertise in EVER magazine I would like to have EVER in my store Contact Name: Company: Address: City: Postal Code: Province: Telephone: Email: Email your comments: info@evermagazine.com Mailing Address: EVER magazine 55 Bloor St., West, PO Box 19501, Toronto, ON., M4W 3T9 Fax Number: 416.703.6392 Or go to our website, www.evermagazine.ca “Like” us on
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eco-friendlyfeature
green “ ”
BUILD YOUR business
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eco-friendlyfeature
Retailers need to consider costs and aesthetics when it comes to eco-friendly packaging By Andrew Malabre
I
nvesting in eco-packaging can actually benefit your bottom line and keep you a step ahead of the competition. Environment Canada has estimated that over 60 per cent of Canadians are concerned about the impact of their purchases on the environment. With the consumer demand for eco-friendly practices on the rise, Canadian businesses have been faced with tough decisions on how to respond. Many have considered making significant changes, and some have already taken steps to change their packaging. In response to this shift, keen packaging manufacturers have started to invest in a whole new line of packaging for the Canadian market by incorporating materials from various plants, animals, silk and metal fibres. AN ECO-SHIFT
NEW LINES ON THE HORIZON
“We’re noticing a shift in our customer base, asking about environmentally friendly alternatives for packaging,” says Tony Geric of Vancouver-based Mayers Packaging. “Although it’s not a major demand as of yet, we certainly notice smaller businesses slowly incorporating a ‘going green’ mentality, and as a large manufacturer, we have to be aware of that.” In many cases, the packaging is just as important as the product itself. It defines and represents the business; it reflects the company’s quality and standards. Retailers with a concern for the environment need to consider cost and aesthetics when it comes to opting for eco-friendly packaging. Fortunately, major packaging suppliers have not overlooked this demand, and have begun making eco-friendly packaging available that is attractive and affordable.
Also incorporating eco-friendly measures for packaging is the Canadianbased manufacturer Noble Packaging. “Since 2009 we made a shift toward eco-friendly and sustainable practices in our company,” says Samuel Herzog, Vice President of Noble Packaging. “We noticed the demand was there and decided to give our customers the opportunity to go green with several of our new products.” With the ZeroTree logo adorning their new eco-lines, they have produced attractive packaging with the use of jute, hemp, bamboo and stone fibres. “We’ve made it very straightforward for our customers to shop [for eco-products] on our website,” says Herzog. “New lines such as our stunning Jutco, bamboo and Abaca fibre lines, have had great reviews from our customers that want to be environmentally friendly and different,” says Herzog. “And this is only the beginning. We’re continuing to alter our eco-friendly lines to make them even more sustainable for the future.” With no end in site, Noble Packaging sees the opportunity for smaller businesses to easily go green with their products.
FOR THE LOVE OF PACKAGING
Certain American-based packaging companies have slowly begun to incorporate eco-friendly materials within new lines of packaging for jewellers. The majority of the Canadian manufacturing sector has quickly jumped on eco-friendly alternatives and lines to keep up with the local competition. A great example of this new paradigm shift in manufacturing was introduced by Progress Luv2Pak International. The company went to the green extreme with their “Give Green” leaf symbol, an iconic representation of their eco-friendly products. Made with recycled and sustainable materials, the company’s packaging boasts biodegradable and carbon-neutral offsets that have been certified by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council). “It’s not always more expensive [to produce environmentally friendly packaging],” says Glorianne Naiman of Progress. “Take, for example, our paper bag collections. The majority of them had plastic lamination, but when we decided to go eco-friendly, we eliminated the lamination. It didn’t affect the product. It was now considered enviro-safe and it was less expensive to produce.” Progress is especially satisfied with its success in the Canadian market. “These lines are successful in Canada because of the social responsibility of companies to go green,” says Naiman.
DO NOT BREAK THE BANK
“Unfortunately, it does cost us more to manufacture eco-friendly packaging,” says Tony Geric. “That’s why [there is a] slightly higher price for these products.” However, the price is not as astronomical as one would expect. The difference does vary depending on the type of product, though, only by less than $10. Noble Packaging’s Herzog agrees with the slightly higher price tag but confidently adds a positive spin for the future. “Yes it is more expensive, but we’re continually trying to better our techniques to create these types of products at a lower cost,” he says. A BAN ON PLASTIC
Carrie Garper, manager of Creative Bag, a Toronto-based packaging company for over 25 years, understands just that. “We’re noticing more and more of our customers questioning their packaging due to external factors, such as the plastic bag ban,” says Garper, referring to the zerowww.canadianjeweller.com
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eco-friendlyfeature tolerance Toronto city bag ban due out January 1, 2013. “People are willing to accept these changes and do their part for the environment, even if it costs a little more off the top.” BECOME AN ECO-BUSINESS
Using eco-friendly packaging gives companies the opportunity to gain competitive positioning and increase their revenue through the effective “eco-friendly” marketing angle. While providing proof of environmental leadership and trust in their products and practices, businesses are able to use this designation to gain the support of their consumers. Retailers can demonstrate their commitment to the environment by purchasing eco-friendly packaging, even if it costs them a couple of extra dollars a month. It allows them to distinguish themselves from the rest as a proud eco-business. “Certain businesses want to stand out from the rest, and that’s just what these [packaging] products do. It allows [businesses] the opportunity to be unique in a very competitive field,” says Samuel Herzog. Standing out in the Canadian retail sector is not only important; it’s a tool for survival. A unique set of packaging provides the customer with something they can take with them when they leave the store – a souvenir to accompany their purchase that can enhance the customer’s satisfaction and shopping experience. Some retailers may choose to use their eco-
friendly packaging as a marketing tool, such as Birks’s Blue Box or Tiffany & Co.’s Little Blue Box. “Tiffany & Co. has been working to ensure that our iconic Tiffany Blue Box and blue bags are produced with sustainable materials and can report that all are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified,” says Andrea Hopson, VP of Tiffany & Co. Canada. “Further more than 89 per cent of the materials used to produce the Tiffany Blue Box originate from postconsumer recycled sources.” GETTING STARTED
Over the past few years, manufacturers in Canada have gone online to increase the ease of shopping for their products. Rob Grand, President of Grassroots, an eco-store founded in 1994, suggests to, “[have a talk with] your suppliers about replacing items with environmentally friendly alternatives. Instead of using brand new paper, ask them to use something reused. What retailers need to keep in mind is that packaging manufacturers are here for them and that their success depends on the feedback of their customers.” Turning a retail business into an eco-friendly one is do-able, although some might find it overwhelming. “It’s not necessary to do it all at once,” Grand says. “Start small.” Opting for eco-packaging is a step in the right direction. [CJ]
Please visit www.seikocan.com to view the NEW Daring collection & a full range of Seiko watches.
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designerprofile | tadashinakamura
A NATURAL INSPIRATION
The Bulova brand has truly redefined precision in timepieces, and the designer that can be credited for this transformation is Tadashi Nakamura of Japan BY BONNIE SIEGLER
P
recision is most commonly defined as, “used or intended for accurate or exact measurement.” It also refers to a precision tool or something, “made so as to vary minimally from a set standard,” in other words, precision components. Both definitions can be aptly applied to Bulova’s Precisionist Chronograph watch, which is debuting in the United States, Canada and Europe in October. Tadashi Nakamura, creative director at Bulova for the last three years, says, “Architectural designs were my thoughts and inspiration behind designing the Precisionist Chronograph.” Nakamura studied at Tokyo University of Art and Design, specializing in industrial design before solidifying his place among top watchmakers. Prior to joining the Bulova family, Nakamura was design manager for Citizen Japan for several years, laying claim to many OEM brands for Europe and Japan.
A STROKE OF GENIUS
Nakamura also headed the design team for Paul Smith watches, marketed in Japan. It was during those years that Nakamura honed his skills and passion for detail in the watch-making business, thus bringing the Chronograph to life. “We always begin with rough sketches by hand, as I do with all my designs,” says Nakamura. “Then I begin to design the features, ultimately with a 2D CGI (two dimensional computer generated image, which is created through the use of design software) interpretation,” he explains, as he continues this time-keeping journey. “Every little element and detail that goes into the watches makes them unique and superior.”
Tadashi Nakamura, creative director at Bulova
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tadashinakamura | designerprofile
ON BOARD WITH BULOVA
The inclusion of Nakamura into the Bulova brand happened rather seamlessly. “When Citizen Japan bought Bulova, they assigned a team of designers, which was headed by Mr. Nakamura,” explains James Chan, senior VP of merchandising and product development at Bulova. “We especially focused on Precisionist, which is our proprietary technology. This is a major reason we did not go outside of our company’s design team.”
“Every little element and detail that goes into the watches makes them unique and superior.” NATURE’S BEAUTY
The Chronograph is said to be the most accurate watch on the market today, with a continuously sweeping second hand that beats 16 times per second, compared to other standard quartz watches that beat only one time per second. Proud of their proprietary expertise, the Precisionist “P” logo is on the tail of every second hand, says Chan. The precision technology in this watch addresses temperature changes and vibration frequency, two important factors that can affect accuracy in quartz watches. “This watch has a multi-layered dial and the surface quality is excellent,” says Nakamura, when referring to the elements that also contribute to making the Precisionist Chronograph different from other timepieces. “There’s a bracelet, case and layered dial that other watches do not have.” Chan adds that, “the Champlain and Longwood bracelets are constructed by five individually milled links of various profiles. This gives a very clean line to each link on one hand, while having separate links will provide a crisp aesthetic appeal.”
When not perfecting his watch skills, Nakamura enjoys surfing, scuba diving and beach activities. “It takes 10 minutes to walk to the beach, which I do often,” says the creative designer who has his home in Kanagawa, right outside of Tokyo. “It’s some of nature’s beauty that gives me my inspirations for rough sketches. I put those life inspirations into watch-making and the process itself. It’s a definite concept. For example, the orbit of the stars in the night sky embodies the beautiful and precise stream of time.” It seems that Nakamura has breathed life into the Bulova line of watches with the Precisionist and has redefined the watch industry with a new sense of dynamism and excitement. Over 50 years ago, the company introduced its Accutron product line, which at the time was the most comprehensive and revolutionary watch of its era. Today, Nakamura says the Precisionist watch has given Bulova a superior presence. “It has balance, quality and gives one the pleasure of ownership. I’d describe this specific watch as high spec, high-quality and good design.” [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com
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jvcfeature
One of the great privileges of working with Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) for the last 16 years has been the opportunity to work alongside our industry leaders who have taken the position of JVC President. Each one willingly volunteered their time and expertise to make this industry a better place in which to do business. Duncan Parker has now taken the position and as you will read, he has been involved with JVC for many years. It is reassuring for the industry’s and JVC’s future to have someone of his calibre as JVC President. – Phyllis Richard, JVC Executive Director round 20 years ago, I was honoured to be asked by JVC to join a committee that was developing minimum acceptable standards for the description, marketing and sale of diamonds, gemstones and pearls. The work being done by this committee immediately struck me as being both important and entirely lacking in self-interest. No person or group on the committee was going to materially benefit from this new set of standards. It was just setting out to create written standards to make the industry a better place for the trade and for the consumer. LAYING THE FOUNDATION
What was to become of the Canadian Guidelines with Respect to the Sale and Marketing of Diamonds, Coloured Gemstones and Pearls was my introduction to JVC. This organization became an important part of my jewellery industry consciousness over the next few years, and part of my vocabulary almost immediately.
Standard PRACTICE
The new president discusses Jewellers Vigilance Canada’s dedication to setting standards that will benefit the jewellery trade and its future
Soon after, another committee was struck to discuss the need for a set of standards for appraisers in Canada. The objective was to set out the minimum standards for descriptive terminology to be used in the preparation of jewellery appraisals in Canada. JVC, and other industry members, had already recognized that there was a problem with inconsistencies in appraisals. The Government of Canada’s Department of Consumer and Corporate Affairs, the Insurance Bureau of Canada, The Canadian Jewellers Association, and The Canadian Gemmological Association, plus numerous individual industry members were also involved in the process of writing, editing, and tweaking these standards.
By Duncan Parker, JVC President 2012-2014
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jvcfeature
The fact that interested parties inside and outside of the trade were involved in these processes demonstrates how important such projects can be. JVC regularly participates in projects like this. Over the years, JVC has been involved with setting overall standards of practice, methodology, and terminology for the jewellery and ancillary trades. These guidelines are a small but important part of what JVC does in its daily operations. CRIME PREVENTION
JVC has been involved in anti-counterfeiting lobbying for many years, working with the Canadian Anti-Counterfeiting Network and other industry organizations, aimed at protecting copyright within our industry. Though crime is said to be decreasing in Canada right now, there have been changes in the types of crime being perpetrated. We are seeing crime against the jewellery industry shifting, and the trade really needs to be better informed about the types and the nature of crimes impacting our industry.
COME TOGETHER
JVC is an organization that is principally run by volunteers representing manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, Royal Canadian Mounted Police, refiners, insurers, appraisers, auctioneers, individuals and other trade organizations such as the Canadian Jewellers Association, Canadian Gemmological Association, among others. The work of Jewellers Vigilance Canada is crucial to ensuring a safe and secure working environment for those in the industry. It also ensures that consumers are served by a trade that is bound by established guidelines and standards of practice that follow ethical standards, serving consumer needs to the highest level. For 25 years JVC has focused on making sure that ethical and moral practices are adhered to within the industry. I am proud to have been involved in its work in my own small way for a good part of that time. [CJ] A formal commitment to crime prevention JVC and Jewelers Mutual Insurance have recently formalized their partnership. According to the new agreement, Jewellers Vigilance Canada will endorse Jewelers Mutual Insurance (JMI) products and in
Many years ago, JVC was able to start the crime prevention program. This program was designed to bring together all of the available statistics about crime affecting the jewellery industry.
turn, JMI will provide its clients with a comprehensive crime prevention
While police forces do their best to reduce crime, they are not always in direct communication with each other, but through the JVC Crime Prevention Package, jewellers are able to have a single source of information about theft, safety, security, and crime prevention.
are to crime prevention, education within our industry and to reinforcing
OPEN LINES OF COMMUNICATION
Part of JVC’s work is liaison and mediation between consumers and the jewellery trade. JVC takes no sides, and serves as an intermediary between the parties, working to resolve issues that are raised. The process allows for the best chance of a calm and satisfactory resolution to complaints or concerns.
package from JVC. The two companies have been working together since 2004 and are simply formalizing an already existing agreement. “[This agreement] shows the industry how committed JVC and Jewelers Mutual both commitments of this particular mandate,” says Phyllis Richard, JVC Executive Director. “All Jewelers Mutual policy holders are automatically enrolled in the JVC crime Prevention Program and they will continue to receive all of our crime alerts and have access to our newly revised crime prevention training manual, which has just been posted online in the member’s only section of our website.” David Sexton, CPCU and Vice President of Loss Prevention at JMI, noted that the JVC is a leading crimeprevention resource for jewellers in Canada. “Jewelers Mutual is proud to partner with this organization that has made such significant contributions to the war on jewellery crime,” he says.
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CMYK
A M O D E R N
© 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.
C L A S S I C
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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
FILENAME
CLIENT
Malo-CanJeweller_Spread.PDF
Malo Inc
MAGAZINE & INSERTION
AGENCY
Canadian Jeweller Magazine
Saro Creative
SIZE
CONTACT
18” x 10.875”
Kohar Ayvazian 213-596-7875 kohar@sarocreative.com
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A D V E R T I S I
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A D V E R T I S I N G
MCD Pearls S
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. Package 718: 10kt. Gold Earrings, set with 5x3mm a.Garnet, b.Aquamarine, c.Citrine, d. Peridot, e. Blue Topaz, f. Amethyst & g. Iolite. a.
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2011 – BUYERS’ GUIDE | www.canadianjeweller.com
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pure beauty has a name...
Exclusively available in Canada through
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Jewelry Sales Reps. Wanted Canadian Distributorship and Authorized Retail Locations Available
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A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
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Since 1996
CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING
PRINT, MILL & GROW
SERVICE GUARANTEE
• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around • Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days
Sam Salehi President
• Casting Provided • All jobs set under microscope • Our jobs guaranteed
410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976 info@prestigemfg.com • www.prestigemfg.ca
DYNAMIC GEMS GROUP INC. Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery www.venusgems.ca www.dynamicgems.com
27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010•(416) 306 0705 Fax: (416) 777 0021• Cell: (416) 566 5579 Email: ssalehi@live.com
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc. • Cutters of Rough Diamonds • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes • Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds 21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com
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C
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Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad
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3:11 PM
Page 1
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
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Armandor Enterprises Inc. New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: info@akbgold.com New Website: www.akbgold.com New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5
104
New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services
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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
Refine-All Metals Ltd.
Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.ca and www.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9
Web:www.refinegold.ca
E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com
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You’ve probably noticed a change in PLUS: EX CELLEN CE IN D ESIGN Canadian Jeweller covers the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of the top retailers in the industry. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you. MAIL 406780
27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010•(416) 306 0705 Fax: (416) 777 0021• Cell: (416) 566 5579 Email: ssalehi@live.com
DECE MB JANU ER 2011/ A RY 2 012
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Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery www.venusgems.ca www.dynamicgems.com
Calling
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Sam Salehi President
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To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send an email request to cj@gorgmgo.com
classified
A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
FOR SALE
CNC Gold Refining Inc
Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap
9999
While You Wait-Immediate Settlements Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys Check Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices At: www.goldrefining.ca
Jewellery manufacturing shop with a showroom area in the front for retail, set-up with display cases. Also optional for sale the 1500 sq. ft. industrial condominium unit. Shop equipped with manual and electronic casting machines, large gas burnout oven, 400 ton coining hydraulic press, 5 ton motorized blanking press, kick-presses, cutting tools, stamping dies, rubber moulds, Toudiamants diamond faceting machine, rolling mills and more. Located in the North-West of Toronto close to the new subway extension under construction. Owner wants to retire. For seriously interested inquiries only call 416-736-1063 or email sam@skelimited.ca.
BUSINESS FOR SALE
Well established goldsmith shop/jewellery store for sale in the rocky mountains in British Colombia. High traffic area, great recreation destination, time shares. Onsite goldsmiths. Fifteen years in business, owner retiring. Business and stock for sale. Owner willing to do some training. Contact jewellerintherockies@hotmail.com for more information.
Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7
Tel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500 Toll Free: 877-465 3497 E-mail:info@goldrefining.ca
Web: www.goldrefining.ca
www.canadianjeweller.com
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Queen of Diamonds An icon in its own right, Tiffany & Co. unveils the
Tiffany Noble Necklace as part of a celebration to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. This marvelous masterpiece features alternating round and marquise diamonds set in a sumptuous platinum chain. But the real star of this piece is the internally flawless, 18.44-carat centre diamond — a hallmark that makes anyone feel like royalty. Retails at $7,150,000.
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