Canadian Jeweller - November Issue 2011

fo r th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

NOVEMBER 2011

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LE COIN FRANÇAIS Expo Prestige, perles et plus encore

CUSTOM JEWELLERY Find your niche, build your brand

Better Together Beth Saunders, Canadian Jewellery Group

PLUS: GOLD RUSH PART 2 ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From melee to center stones, Stuller provides the broadest choice in diamonds, all expertly cut and perfectly matched. With our proven track record of accurate grading standards, dependable delivery, and competitive pricing, Stuller is the only diamond supplier you’ll ever need to be a hero for your customers. And as a DTC sightholder, our vast selection of top-quality diamonds is always close at hand and conflict-free. For a wealth of ideas, call our Toronto sales center at

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Established 18792011 NOVEMBER 2011 EstablishEd 1879 January/february • vol. 132, no . 1 • vol. 132, no. 7 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Lucy Holden| Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com lucy holden Associate Publisher lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com Carol besler Consulting Editor Weigle Editor | carlos@gorgmgo.com Paul aguirre Associate EditorCarlos | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Jessica Uniac Editorial Assistant | jessica@gorgmgo.com scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Irina Lytchak, Lorina Owen Editoral Interns | intern@gorgmgo.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator |Sarah production@rivegauchemedia.com Vincett Graphic Designer James & Shotton Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie seth Controller Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant erin@gorgmgo.com Leslie Witol | Finance Administrator | leslie@gorgmgo.com Matthew Pompey Multimedia Specialist | web@rivegauchemedia.com Marsha Miller Customer Service | customerservice@gorgmgo.com chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean

Claudine Baltazar, Terri Dean Dacquisto, Rob Hopkins, CONTRIBUTORS MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Lamont, Duncan Parker, Lise Petitpas, sanderson, bonnieJohn siegler.

Carmen Rivet, Bonnie Siegler, E.Z. Guler-Tuck

salEs lucy holden

AssociAtesales publisher (416) 203-7900 6117 publisher Lucy Holdenext.Associate email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com ADVertisiNG sAles tel . Jeff (416) 203-7900 ext.ADVERTISING 6122 Sales Yamaguchi email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 email karolann@gorgmgo.com PUBLICATION PARTNERS CIRCULATION Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 publicAtioN pArtNers Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1 345 Kingston road, suite toll101 free 1-877-547-2246 pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1cj@publicationpartners.com email toll free 1-877-547-2246 email cj@publicationpartners.com Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 60 bloor street West, suite 1106Ontario, M4W 3B8 Toronto, toronto, ontario, M4W tel3b8 . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507 555 chabanel street West, suite 1507 Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2 Montreal, Quebec, h2N tel2J2 . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 tel . (514) 381-5196 faxtoll (514) 381-6223 free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 tel .

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CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

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CJ

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CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1w1 w |w.wcwawn.ac da ni aa dni jaenwj eewlel lelr.e rc. oc omm January/February 2011

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Behind every “ Yes,” there’s a great jeweller.

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in the industry.

We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery and components as well as unique selling tools for customization. For a wealth of ideas, call our Toronto sales center at 866-815-5511, or visit us at stuller.com.

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 88

That’s the beauty of it all.

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[FEATURES]

42 48 NOVEMBER 2011

30. gold rush pt.2 lexis Minerals has high hopes for its Snow Lake, A Manitoba Mine.

70. design revolution CAD and CAM software are helping jewellers be more competitive and more imaginative at the same time.

34. in praise of appraising Determining the value of jewellery is an involved and multi-layered process.

42. Better together Beth Saunders believes the Canadian Jewellery Group can make a difference.

48. “Custom” Built to last Technology takes the venerable art of custom-made jewellery to a whole new level.

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SPÉCIAL : CJ en français 56.

lettre de l’editeur/contributEUrs

58. recyclage intelligent et crÉatif 60.

60 ans de prestige

62. tech emotion : une perle rare

www.canadianjeweller.com

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 88

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64 74

[DEPARTMENTS] NOVEMBER 2011 12.

Letter from the editor

14.

Product showcase

22. Who’s news

www.facebook.com/CJMag

TM

74. Beauty is in the details ELLE Jewelry’s sole designer, Claire Vessot, believes in finding something special in the smallest aspects of everyday life.

24. For the record 64. costly justice Police investigations advance yet the price tag of trails remains extremely high.

66. knowledge is golden Moniruz Zaman applied his international experience and turned The Bullion Mart into a thriving company.

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www.twitter.com/CJMag

78. Showcase/marketplace 88. Fax back 90.

Last word

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Gc is a registered trademark of GUESS?, Inc. Art Dir. Paul Marciano

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Diver Chic 32 Diamonds White ceramic Mother-of-pearl dial Sapphire crystal Swiss Made Gcwatches.com

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letterfromtheeditor

Canada’s first premium Fashion Jewellery magazine Great to take home 4 times per year Have EVER in-store to keep your customers inspired Yes, I would like to secure my 50 copies at no charge for my store at the address below:

Store name: Address:

Phone: Fax: Email: Contact name:

Fax to: 1-888-849-0155

LAST CHANCE TO SIGN UP!

A land of wonders Ours is truly a vast and generous country. So vast sometimes we lose sight of all the talent and initiative that can be found beyond the boundaries of our own provinces, sometimes even our own cities. Although it’s human nature to focus on the events and people that are closer to us, that quality also often prevents us from being inspired by everything our country has to offer.

organization on our cover (story on page 42). Or why we focused on Manitoba, where a company is revitalizing gold mining (page 30).

We must all look beyond our borders – there might be a new business opportunity just a few hours or a phone call away. By expanding our horizons we could discover a fantastic designer or a great idea that could help save us from financial hardship.

That appetite for everything Canadian also gets us excited every year, as we support the Excellence in Design Award, a competition that promotes talent across the country (by the way, keep your eyes peeled for the 2011 winners in our next issue).

Here at Canadian Jeweller we believe in doing our share and being a strong voice for our industry, nation-wide. That’s why, for instance, we’re including several pages (in French) reflecting the vitality of our industry in Quebec (page 56).

Thank you, Canada!

It’s the same reason that prompted us to feature the Canadian Jewellery Group – a truly national retailer

Carlos Weigle Editor

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J e w e l e r s M u t u a l i s e x c l u s i v e ly e n d o r s e d b y t h e c a n a d i a n J e w e l l e r s a s s o c i at i o n a n d e n c o u r a g e s p a r t i c i p at i o n i n t h e J e w e l e r s b o a r d o f t r a d e . l e a r n w h y y o u s h o u l d J o i n J b t at w w w. J e w e l e r s b o a r d . c o M .

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1. Altanus Watches

3. BLACK & WHITE FROM DI DONNA

Altanus watches distinguish themselves for their personality, which expresses

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a clear love for the details, the preciosity of materials, and still more, for the

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constant research of a strong and innovative design. The Altanus Revolution

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is an example from a firm founded in the past that turns its dynamic and

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4. ELLE TIME COLLECTION Appreciate Your Time, Define Your Style with our sleek and sophisticated

2. Meteor Cut速 Solitaire Ring

ELLE Stainless Steel Watch. This Rose Gold, Swarovski Crystal Oval Bracelet

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watch, translating function into style. For more information, write 143 on the

is one of the leading products of Lili Jewelry. It has a decagonal shape, and

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Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

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second, pricing possible. For more information, write 144 on the Free Info

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diamonds around the bezel, this new timepiece offers a truly luxurious touch of sparkle and elegance for the delight of fashion-conscious ladies everywhere.

2. READY MOUNTS INC.

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At Ready Mounts we are focusing on offering a variety of products and services to help save you time and money. We offer full CAD services, including milling

4. IMPERIAL COLOR DIAMONDS

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1. Importex

3. It’s All About Me!

Importex founded in 1967 has one of the largest selection of diamonds

Consumers want something personal, completely unique. Give them that option

(including GIA and Canadian), pearls, black diamonds, opal, coral,

with CounterSketch Studio from Stuller. This program lets your customers

semiprecious and synthetic stones, and findings in silver, platinum, 10k,

become involved in designing and building their very own exclusive piece. And

14k, 18k white ,yellow and pink gold in all of Canada all at budget-friendly

it’s backed by Stuller manufacturing, so you can expect a high–quality result

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4. How fast can your customers find you online?

2. Rembrandt Charms

Successful retailers know the importance of an online presence, and

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offering a vast selection of inventory for online shoppers is key. Polygon’s

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www.canadianjeweller.com

10/21/11 9:38:56 AM

E BR A K G IN N S EW

100%

Steve Reale, Director of Sales and Marketing

JSN is taking its passion for our diamonds to the next level by opening the first entirely Canadian diamond-cutting facility in Toronto • BY CARLOS WEIGLE SCAN ME TO GO TO THE VIDEO

Miri Shilon, Director of Product Development; Gila Shilon, Director of Inventory Management

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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NOVEMBER 2011

CJ

10/31/11 1:55:22 PM

EW S N IN G K A BR E

C

anadian diamonds are becoming a phenomenon around the world.

From Europe to Asia to the U.S., they are not only associated with great quality, they are perceived as an ethical product consumers can feel good about.

JSN has been an exceptional advocate for our gemstones, having a tremendously positive response to their Canadian Ice diamond collection. “We’ve had huge international success with our Canadian brands over the past few years,” says Steve Reale, the company’s director of sales and marketing. “Our world market is strengthening. Before, people thought of Canadian diamonds just as a novelty; now they’ve turned out to be a very viable source, as an ethical product and also in terms of customer appeal. Right now our brands are exploding around the world: we’re in Vietnam, Italy, Central Europe, we’re huge in the U.K. and the U.S. and, of course, in our domestic market here in Canada.”

That success story certainly gives JSN the confidence to go one step further, and to announce the production of 100 per cent Canadian diamonds, mined, cut and polished in our country. The company is taking that step because there was customer demand for that type of diamond yet also because they are passionate about our country and everything it represents. As Reale puts it, “we truly believe that the Canadian origin is where the appeal truly lies. Our philosophy has been ‘bring that ethical diamond to the world’ and they will respond. The retailers are responding and so are the consumers. This venture is for our domestic retailers that require a ‘product of’ or ‘made in Canada’ diamond, which was the only element missing from our arsenal, in terms of Canadian diamonds. We now cover ‘origin,’ ‘made’ and ‘product of Canada,’ to provide our domestic customers with their every need. We are in full control of our destiny, from rough diamond to finished jewellery. Adding the Canadian facility makes it a ‘one-stop shopping experience’ for our domestic customers.”

Other companies have tried to achieve that and eventually failed. JSN has some clear advantages over them. As Joseph Shilon, its president, points out: “With all the experience, knowledge and customer base that we have, we’re sure we can do it successfully. For some it’s not a viable venture because they’d have to cut the diamonds first and then find the customers.

We already have the customers and we know what they want.”

The new cutting facility will not only be located in our country, it will also employ Canadians exclusively. “A true 100 per cent product of Canada must start with Canadian workers. There is no sense of ‘Canadiana’ if you have foreign nationals cutting on Canadian soil. That’s why we will only employ Canadian citizens,” says Reale.

JSN will take advantage of their state-of-the-art facilities in Thailand and bring their expertise home. “We have the most sophisticated, advanced factory in Thailand,” says Shilon. “We have the best machinery and technology, some of which we developed ourselves. The easiest thing would CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 |

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Canada’s Ambassador to

Thailand, Ron Hoff mann,

at a JSN event.

be to bring the people to Canada and train them here. However, to provide them with the best experience and knowledge, I’ve decided to take this new generation of cutters, the one we’ll be training, to the big factory in Thailand, where they’d have everything at their disposal.”

JSN’s initiative aims to train Canadians so they can become masters and, in turn, pass that expertise on to future generations.

Shilon emphasizes he’s proud to be Canadian and, like many others who arrived here from other countries, wants to give back to Canada and share what it has to offer with the rest of the world. In fact, JSN has been doing that for years. “We are very strong in the world market,” says Reale. “We are probably one of the world leaders in terms of Canadian diamonds. We had an incredible last few years with our brand; we run approximately 16 private labels around the world, plus our direct Canadian Ice brand and Passionate Heart.” The effect Canadian diamonds have beyond our borders is palpable at events such as the one recently organized by Goldsmiths in London.

In the beginning, the Toronto facility will handle larger stones, half a carat and up. Yet, as Shilon highlights, “in the near future we hope to introduce much smaller diamonds.” That will be possible thanks to brand new technology JSN is developing along with their partners in Thailand and Israel.

The early stages of testing and production are scheduled for late January and actual production is expected by the end of 2012’s first quarter.

“We’re going to start with 10 people and the best robot machinery in the world,” states Reale. “The idea is to produce approximately 3,000 ct at first and take it to 7,500 and up to 10,000 within the next few years.”

A project such as this one doesn’t happen overnight. As a matter of fact, it took eight months for JSN to get to this point. Extensive planning and careful thought went into each step of the process. The excitement is now evident: it’s time to start working on our stones, right here at home, and produce some of the best diamonds in the world. [CJ]

Text the KEYWORD “JSN” to “54500” to access our exclusive video interview from this special annoucement.

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

10/31/11 1:55:54 PM

RM-AD_October 2011_Layout 1 11-10-05 6:08 PM Page 1

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who’snews

PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

York City. The Diamond Empowerment Fund has a long history of raising money to instill proper education protocols in various diamondproducing countries in Africa.

JA elects new chair and board directors Georgie Gleim, President of Gleim The Jeweler in Palo Alto, CA, has been elected as the new Board Chair by the Jewelers of America. The JA Board, a national trade association for businesses serving fi ne jewellery retailers, held a meeting in July during which they also elected William Farmer Jr. of Farmer’s Jewelry as Chair-Elect, and Ryan Berg, Scot Congress and Peter Engel as the new Vice Chairmen. Gleim succeeded Terry Burman, who was a former Signet Jewelers Limited CEO and Sterling Jewelers Inc. Chairman, as the new Chair.

Barbara Ryan

New gem at Stuller Stuller Inc. is pleased to announce Barbara Ryan as the new VP of Jewellery. Ryan began her role with the company on October 17. Ryan has been in the jewellery business for 20 years, displaying her knowledge and leadership etiquette in a variety of roles including former divisional VP at Helzberg Diamonds. As acting Jewellery VP for Stuller, Barbara will be responsible for discovering new trends while meeting customer expectations by foreseeing the execution of eyecatching and captivating new collections.

Diamond empowerment fund welcomes new members The Diamond Empowerment Fund, a fi rm focused on supporting education practices in Africa, has welcomed Nancy Orem Lyman and Phyllis Bergman as their new board members.

As the new executive director, Lyman previously served as the director of consumer confidence for the De Beers Group and as the education outreach director of the World Diamond Council. Bergman comes on as the board’s new president while also serving as the CEO Mercury Ring and chairman of the 24 Karat Club of New

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Tennis champ Djokovic joins Piguet Audemars Piguet has appointed tennis star Novak Djokovic as the luxury watchmaker’s newest ambassador during the U.S. Open fourth Grand Slam competition of 2011. Previous brand ambassadors for Piguet have included Michael Schumacher, Leo Messi, LeBron James and Sachin Tendulkar, among others. Djokovic has recently claimed the top spot in men’s tennis by winning his third Grand Slam title at Wimbledon this past July. He’s had a very successful year so far with nine wins, including the Australian Open and five Masters 1000. Piguet CEO Philippe Merk stated that the brand is honoured to welcome Djokovic, “a great champion,” as their new ambassador.

president, while Y. Y. Lawrence Ma was named the new president and W. S. Winston Chow as the new chairman. The three new ViceChairmen for the retail, import and wholesaling, and manufacturing divisions, are W. Y. Victor Yiu, L. H. River Si and C. K. Nelson Ho. The DFHK has recently announced that Hong Kong has imported an estimated 14.5 million carats in polished diamonds for the fi rst half of 2011, an increase from 13.6 million carats for the corresponding period of 2010.

Tim Bourne new head of watches for Sotheby’s Asia Sotheby’s Asia has appointed Tim Bourne as the new worldwide head of the watches department, which will entail him to supervise all of the Sotheby’s watch auctions in Asia, Geneva, New York and London, while working out of Hong Kong. Bourne comes from over 20 years of experience in the auction house business, being responsible for establishing Sotheby’s fi rst stand-alone watch auction in Asia in 1997.

He was previously in charge of the Sotheby’s Asia watch division from 1997 to 2002 and since then has had an active part in the fi rm’s consignment, business development, marketing and administration sectors. [CJ] Tim Bourne

DFHK announces new lineup The Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, a non-profit organization maintaining ethical business practices in the diamond market, has announced the new members of its executive committee, chosen for the next two years. Sik Wah Leung was welcomed as the honorary life

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10/26/11 4:24:28 PM

fortherecord

news | trends | events Branson for Bulova

Fresh, new design for Stuller.com

Last month Bulova Accutron celebrated the launch of the new Bulova Accutron watch that Sir Richard Branson (brand ambassador) co-designed. Only 500 of the Bulova Accutron Sir Richard Branson Limited Edition Watch will be available globally with hopes to bring 40 to 50 of the timeless pieces to Canada. Stephen Taylor, President of Bulova Canada, who played a large part in the decision to appoint Sir Richard Branson as company ambassador, says that New York was strictly about the brand and the face behind it. It provided a chance for high-end customers to meet the brand ambassador and truly understand why he was chosen to represent the company when he is normally opposed to brand endorsement. “A substantial person from a number of aspects. He’s got this boundless appetite for exploration and adventure, which is a great fit for the brand.”

Sir Richard Branson chose to endorse Bulova because of a shared belief to reach the global consumer by providing high-quality material at an entry-level Swiss price. The Bulova Accutron line consists of eight collections including a recent limited edition piece, the “Conquerer,” a replica of the watch awarded to Charles Lindberg upon crossing of the Atlantic. According to Taylor, the Canadian objective of the company is to have “100 high-end points of distribution, limiting the brand to those locations.” The stylish Bulova Accutron Sir Richard Branson Limited Edition Watch features a black dial representing the globe with dual time zones in correspondence to 24 global destinations. A key component as Sir Branson himself often awakens in a different time zone from where he fell asleep. The watch is set to hit the market in fall 2012 with an estimated retail price of $3,995.

Stuller, Inc. has announced the launch of its redesigned ecommerce website, Stuller.com.

The latest design features more colour and photography, an improved search field that allows jewellers to find what they need quicker, a “shopby-department” tool that can browse through various categories, and a new feature that enables consumers to find their local jewellers. “Our goal is to help customers find what they’re looking for in fewer clicks, making Stuller.com their first choice for ordering product for their stores,” says Chief Technology Officer, Carol Skarlat. Stuller. com generates around 30 per cent of the retailer’s total sales traffic and boasts over 200,000 jewellery and jewellery-related items.

Sir Richard Branson; Bulova’s Jay Cameron; Bijouterie Italienne’s Marco Miserendino

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Rapaport Corp. report reveals polished diamond prices dip 8.6 per cent The Rapaport Corp. has announced that the average prices for polished diamonds have decreased in the third quarter of 2011. The first half of the year had sales remaining at a steady pace. Third Quarter Jitters, a research report conducted by the Rapaport Corp., reveals that trading of polished diamonds is limited while demand is trying to be reached. Although overseas sales have dipped as a result of the European debt crisis and global recovery, China will drive the market with the country’s strong demand for diamonds. Chairman of the Rapaport Corp., Martin Rapaport says, “Diamonds are part of the real world and diamond prices go up and down.” The report shows prices for diamonds have decreased as follows; 1 ct diamonds fell 8.6 per cent, 0.5 ct dropped 7.5 per cent and 3 ct diamonds fell 5.8 per cent. According to Tehmasp Printer, managing director of IGI India, there is uncertainty for the diamond market as the holidays approach. However, he points out that, “those who have set aside a budget for diamond purchases would certainly buy diamonds. So, more or less, the demand would be there.”

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Signet high sales promise new stores Signet Jewelers Ltd., the world’s largest specialty jewellery retailer, has announced that the firm’s recent high sales numbers will likely result in 23 new store openings throughout the U.S. Signet sales for the first quarter of this year have risen by 11 per cent in the U.S. alone to reach an estimated $643 million and $797.6 million worldwide. The company has revealed plans to pay quarterly cash dividends of ten cents on its common shares starting in November 2011.

Signet also plans to boost sales by improving its U.S. websites and merging into the world of social media networking.

Kate Moss launches first jewellery line

Fiat “500 by Gucci”

Gucci and FIAT unveiled new car model Luxury brands Gucci and FIAT joined forces to debut the Fiat “500 by Gucci” limited edition auto at this year’s fall New York Fashion Week. The stylish Fiat 500 and 500 Cabrio were exclusively customized by Gucci creative director, Frida Giannini, and Fiat’s Centro Stile and were unveiled on September 8 at the Fashion’s Night Out event.

The models, inspired by neo-classic black and white film, appeared in a black or white shade, bearing the signature Gucci label stripe. This collaboration also marked Gucci’s 90th anniversary and the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

significant, sentimental purchases. Felicio’s appearance last month was part of the inaugural series of Bridge conferences, and Stuller will soon announce conference dates for 2012. Bridge is open to Stuller customers at no cost. Stuller pledges that attendees will learn methods for being better connected to consumers through technology, improving in-store sales with virtual inventory and generally reducing overhead while becoming more relevant in the marketplace. For more information regarding the Bridge conferences, visit CanadianJeweller.com.

British supermodel Kate Moss launches her first jewellery line in collaboration with LVMH luxury jeweller Fred. The new line consists of 22 glittery pieces, including bracelets, necklaces, earrings and pendants, representing variations of her own tattoos. Prices range from £300 ($470) to £30,000 ($47,000). The most expensive piece is a bright ruby necklace.

The 37-year-old model has designed clothing, handbag and makeup lines in the past. The line is now readily available at Fred stores in France, Tokyo and online.

Zale reports net losses Canadian Jeweller at Bridge conference Recently, Canadian Jeweller publisher Olivier Felicio travelled to South Louisiana along with more than 60 independent North American retail jewellers. Felicio delivered the keynote address to those jewellers assembled for Stuller’s Bridge conference hosted by the manufacturer at its global headquarters. Supporting the conference theme of using new methods to “be tomorrow’s jeweller,” Felicio presented his ideas on the changing consumer and the current luxury retail landscape. He justified the jeweller’s desire to interact more personally with customers through social networking tools. He also discussed the need consumers have to rely on jewellers for information and guidance in making their

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Zale Corp., a North American specialty jewellery retailer, has reported a nine per cent sales increase for the fourth quarter of 2011, which ended July 31, compared to the same period in 2010. The company’s total revenues grew to reach $377 million yet the net loss also increased from last year’s $29 million to $32.6 million for 2011. During the last quarter, Zale closed 10 fine jewellery stores and seven kiosks yet this was their third consecutive quarter of rising sales numbers.

Zale’s high net losses are largely credited to new price increases across their brands, implemented to accommodate the changing goods and services industry. In order to better serve its U.S. consumers, the firm plans to initiate a program that will provide alternative payment options.

Kate Moss at launch party in Paris.

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/20/11 2:08:51 PM

fortherecord

Hong Kong show generated AWE The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair has been a staple in the global jewellery trades events calendar. It gathers 3,300 exhibitors from 45 countries and regions, as well as 44,000 buyers from 135 countries and regions. Fifty per cent of the buyers who attended the event were from overseas, contributing to the exhibit’s status as “The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event.”

It is the largest fair ever in terms of exhibition space, in any industry, in Hong Kong. The fair in September occupied two top-notch venues, which expanded from eight to nine halls in Asia World-Expo, which took place from September 19 -23. The total exhibition space covered 60,000 square metres; this, paired with the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (September 2125), totalled 130,000 square metres of exhibition space. The event featured jewellery ranging from silver and gold to some of the world’s finest loose MCD Pearls In Ad2012, layoutthe1/20/11 PM Page 1 diamonds. fair will6:09 celebrate 30 years as a world-class jewellery event.

Sears Canada CEO plans company overhaul Calvin McDonald, the newly appointed Sears Canada CEO, has issued an internal memorandum to employees stating that the company will have to undergo an image overhaul in order to address its recent “identity crisis.” McDonald wrote that the company will have to embark of tackling stores cluttered with merchandise and ineffective marketing promotions as well as declining financial reports and increased pressures from rival stores like the Bay and Target Corp. “In a time-starved culture, our customers shouldn’t have to hunt for what they need,” wrote McDonald. “Our stores are too difficult to shop. In many cases, we don’t offer the right products in the right market.” Industry insiders say that the CEO has begun developing a three-year plan that will aim at reorganizing catalogue operations, renewing store presentations and investing in more customer research in order to spotlight their shoppers’ main needs.

Unique diamond sold for $6.5 million A spectacular Christie 32.77 ct yellow diamond auctioned off for $6.5 million at the Magnificent Jewel sale in New York on October 18. The diamond exceeded its original estimated auction price by $500,000. The large, pear-shaped Vivid Yellow is deemed one of the rarest gemstones in its class by the Gemological Institute of America, chiefly due to its intense yellow colouration. However, the diamond did not surpass its prior expectancy of exceeding the per-carat price of $203,000 that was achieved by the Golden Drop, an 18.49 ct yellow diamond sold by Christie’s London in 1990.

The Vivid Yellow diamond sold for $201,000 per-carat, which constitutes, according to Rahul Kadaki, head of jewellery for Christie’s Americas, “a sensational price.” The Vivid Yellow made several tour stops in London, Geneva, Hong Kong and finally New York, where it was auctioned. Kadaki called the stone “an extremely rare geological phenomenon.”

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fortherecord

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The stars align for Hamilton

Movado sales, net income soar

To show their committed enthusiasm for the film industry, Hamilton Watch Co. approached several Toronto Film School students about making a short film based on the concept of “Running Out of Time.” Hamilton supplied the students with specific watch models and $1,000 towards the development of the films. The three finalists chosen were Anagha Kulkarni, Robert Young and Suam Khashaei, who ended up taking home the grand prize. Khashaei’s win included a trip to L.A. for the premier of the upcoming Hollywood film Abduction, which features Taylor Lautner’s character sporting one of Hamilton’s iconic watches. Khashaei’s winning short film was also screened at the Toronto premier of Abduction on September 22. Hamilton also made headlines at the 21st Montreal fashion week in September, as the official sponsor of Dress to Kill magazine’s launch of their 2011 fall issue.

The magazine partnered with Montreal’s jewellery retailer Bijouterie Italienne for the special cinema edition featuring actors who are on the rise in Quebec’s film industry. Hamilton Watch Co. is also the Official Timekeeper and sponsor of the Webster Memorial Trophy Competition, celebrating top-of-the-class amateur Canadian pilots. Hamilton presented exclusive watches to the competition winners at the 2011 annual event in St. Hubert, Quebec.

The Movado Group, a Swiss luxury watchmaker, has reported a $4.4 million net income for the second quarter of 2011 due to an increase in sales.

The firm suffered a total net loss of $20.9 million in 2010 yet now finds that sales have since increased by 121 per cent to reach a total of $113.2 million. Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of Movado, stated that the improvement in the company’s sales is largely credited to strategic planning and solid execution, as well as strong consumer demand. According to Movado’s financial statement, the firm expects for the fiscal year of 2012 to bring in a net income between $15 million and $16.5 million.

Gold prices take a big dive Since the largest three-day dip gold prices experienced in decades on Sept. 26, the value has risen above the $1,600 an ounce mark reaching $1,651 on Oct. 18. Market analysts said the sudden and steep decline was price reflective of the belief that gold had been over-bought. The slow recovery of gold prices continues to display a negative sign for the metal’s value. Economist Dennis Gartman says, “very real damage has been done to the gold market.” Since 2010 the overall price of gold has increased by 29 per cent, maintaining a 10 per cent increase since Jan 1. The price of silver has also shown promise moving above the $30 per ounce mark, closing at $31.80 on October 18. A steady increase from the September low of $29.80 per ounce which had analysts eliminating any gains the metal had achieved so far in 2011

Ulysse Nardin reveres the art of dial enamelling Known for their long-standing tradition of skilful and luxurious dial enamelling, watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has acquired the entire stake of dial enameller Donzé Cadrans. Previously owned

by Francine and Michel Vermot, Donzé Cadrans’ has been sold to Nardin in hopes of continuing to reflect the watchmaker’s prestigious heritage of crafting watch dials of the highest quality.

To better exemplify the brand’s admiration for luxury dial enamels, Nardin has also released a new timepiece called the Classico Enamel Champlevé Dragon. The new design features a bright orange and yellow dragon that’s meant to symbolize success and prosperity.

Brick-and-mortar still drive sales Snapdeal.com, an online discount provider, is reporting that although Internet businesses are a great source for today’s cautious consumers, it’s the brick-and-mortar employees that comprise the majority of the power behind the scenes of the retail sales industry. Kunal Bahl, chief executive director for snapdeal.com, has stated that, “Core skills like product sourcing, warehousing and logistics are not available at Internet start-ups.”

Although the future of retailing lies in the success of both online and offline businesses, brick-andmortar professionals are also looking at options online “as there is a risk of being obsolete if you are only in one space,” according to the CEO of Times Internet, Rishi Khiani. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/25/11 2:09:20 PM

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10/26/11 4:22:37 PM

miningcolumn

GOLD RUSH Part 2

Alexis Minerals has high hopes for its Snow Lake, Man. mine

by Rob Hopkins, Alexis Minerals in collaboration with the CMMF — Canadian Mining and Metallurgical Foundation

A

lexis Minerals, one of Canada’s up-and-coming junior gold producers, is positioned to ramp up to commercial production at its newest property in Snow Lake, Manitoba. Alexis took over this former producing mine through the purchase of Garson Gold in April of 2010.

This historic mine was in operation from 1949 to 1958 and then from 1995 to 2005 with recorded production of over 1.44 million ounces. Since then, the project area has been expanded to cover almost 4,840 hectares. The mine hasn’t been in operation since 2005, yet Alexis is confident that the addition of this new property will change the production profile of the company based on recent feasibility study results.

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10/20/11 2:28:42 PM

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miningcolumn

Located in one of Canada’s richest mining regions — Val-d’Or & RouynNoranda, Que. — the Lac Herbin mine is another asset of Alexis Minerals.

80,000 oz of gold

The most current feasibility report for the area suggests that production from the Snow Lake mine could be over 80,000 oz of gold per year for five years. As of December 2010, current measured and indicated resources are approximately 728,000 oz of gold and inferred resources are 336,700 oz of gold. This makes the Snow Lake mine an important asset to Alexis and the company is committed to continue exploration in the area.

Of particular interest are the #3 Zone and the Main Mine Zone. Recent drill results from these areas suggest that there is additional mineralization between these zones which could potentially increase production output.

Alexis also plans to explore and drill many of the other nearby zones at the Snow Lake property, including Boundary, Kim, Caper and Birch. A new team has been mobilized to undertake a regional exploration effort which should lead to a better understanding of the potential in the area.

The infrastructure at the Snow Lake mine includes a fully-permitted 2,000 tonne per day modern mill and tailings facility, and associated plant, and equipment. The mill was built in 1995 by the Kinross/High River Gold joint venture as the New Britannia Mine and operated until 2005–the mill remains in excellent condition. The ore bodies continue to be accessible through the Main Mine shaft and the #3 Zone ramp. Alexis currently maintains all permits and environmental licenses.

The Snow Lake property is road accessible from Winnipeg. The major population centres in the region are Flin Flon to the west-southwest of Snow Lake and Thompson to the northeast.

Decentralized

In January of 2011, Alexis appointed a new President and CEO, François Perron. Perron was most recently the President and CEO of Golden Goose Resources. Following Perron’s appointment Alexis also appointed Gerald Thornton as Vice President, Operations (Manitoba) to oversee the Snow Lake operations in April of 2011. Alexis feels that using a decentralized approach to managing its properties will better position the efforts of the company.

Commenting on the Snow Lake mine, Perron said: “The Snow Lake project is now at the point of nearing the production decision; current efforts are centered on finalizing the project’s financing, building the team to deliver a mine as outlined in the feasibility study and the evaluation of several opportunities to further optimize our plans. These efforts, enriched by

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our operating experiences, should provide for a project that will unlock significant shareholder value.”

Not to be forgotten, Alexis also holds assets in some of Canada’s richest mining regions — Val-d’Or & Rouyn-Noranda, Quebec. Here, Alexis owns over 1,000 square kilometers of property, including a producing mine and production facilities at the Lac Herbin Mining Camp.

The Lac Herbin mine, led by Vice President of Quebec Operations Sylvain Lehoux, is a consistent contributor to the production profile of Alexis Minerals and with further exploration of the area, Alexis is looking to extend the life of the mine and identify new targets for production.

Commercial gold production is a priority as Alexis continues to target growth in production levels to reach 100,000 oz. of gold by the end of 2013. With the Snow Lake mine on the horizon and the mineral rich properties in western Quebec, Alexis will be the story to watch. [CJ]

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gemologyfeature

In praise

of appraising

Determining the value of jewellery is an involved, multi-layered process where passing judgement is frowned upon yet sometimes unavoidable

BY DUNCAN PARKER

E

very day appraisers evaluate jewellery. In addition to weights, colours, clarities and cut grades on gems, we examine and determine the elements of design, manufacturing, setting, finish and polish that contribute to the final value. The “evaluation” process involved in appraising is a very important aspect of the work we do.

In Australia, where I started appraising, the work I do is called “valuing,” and the worker a “valuer.” The “appraiser” in Canada does the same job, yet has a slightly different title. The name “valuer” does convey the impression of simply assessing a dollar amount that is to be applied to an item, while the name “appraiser” gives the impression that there is more than pure dollar value being determined: appraising the factors that contribute to value. In both cases, we really should be taking all aspects of the jewel into account.

In an indirect way, an appraiser will contribute an opinion as to the quality of an object being appraised or valued. The appraiser is expected to provide an accurate description of an item, which will usually not present jewellery in a pejorative way, like saying “this ring is a piece of rubbish” (or worse, though some may merit it), yet may include description that alerts the owner to the fact that there may be factors that need attention, or that are of inferior quality: “there is extensive pitting around the bezel,” for example. It is not critical out of spite, yet is descriptive.

It would be an act of judgment to criticize an item, yet describing the item is necessary. Just because I think so much lumpy, nuggetty and bark textured 1970’s jewellery is horrible, and I’m not upset that everyone’s melting the rubbish, I don’t usually write an appraisal expressing that opinion.

My daughters, when they were young, thought I went to work to “praise” jewellery. To them that was the nearest sounding familiar word to appraising.

It seemed to them that I was just a nice guy, and “praised“ jewellery: that certainly has a nice ring to it.

Even with such dreadful jewellery as the lumps produced when gold was cheap in the 1970’s, there was good and bad. There were extraordinary goldsmiths who created astoundingly well-made, ugly, lumpy 1970’s jewellery, even if it is not to my taste, or perhaps anyone else’s now. On the other hand, there were poorly made jewels in the same time period.

Despite the differences in title, the “appraiser” and the “valuer” do the same job. We don’t “praise” jewellery and we don’t criticize jewellery, yet we do assess all of the factors that contribute to the value of gems and jewellery.

We are describing the jewellery, judging it, while not usually criticizing it.

Often the cheap jewels are inspired by or derived from more costly originals.

Part of the skill of the appraiser is to recognize the difference between the original and the copy, the fine and the ordinary, the mass produced and the pieces that are truely one of a kind.

DESCRIPTIONS OR OPINIONS?

ADDED VALUE

The “praising” is, in effect, carried out anyway: The description accounts for the quality of work, the factors of design, the amount of time involved in making the item, and all of the factors beyond pure raw materials that finally contribute to the value of the jewellery.

We’re often asked whether we have allowed for the design, or the antique value or the custom work in things we appraise, and we must always be able to answer “yes.” We are not doing our job if we don’t account for design or custom work, or the value something may have due to its antiquity (if any).

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gemologyfeature

Jewellery made locally has high labour costs, yet we have seen numerous items cast and rhodium-plated to create the impression of yellow and white gold two-tone jewellery, with the cost of only a single casting and cleaning up, no soldering, and an area plated with rhodium.

This is done to keep costs down, all over the world. If there is no trademark, or an unknown trademark, it can be nearly impossible to identify and allocate a value based on origin.

So does it matter?

We have to recognize the elements that contribute to the final value. If you have an 18K yellow gold wedding band, that weighs 6.50 grams, is there only one possible value for it at a certain time on a certain day with the gold market at a certain level? No. The band might be a cast mass-produced ring from a large-scale manufacturer, with modest labour costs due to economics of manufacturing, or it might be a hand-made mokume-gane ring made from 26 layers of various colours of gold in a process that took several days of work. The labour on the mass-produced ring is minor and the labour on the hand-made ring is potentially the majority of the value of the ring.

One of a kind

The allowance for design is sometimes a little more difficult. When I was studying appraising in Australia, there was a couple who were both designers and goldsmiths in my class, and they argued effectively that cast items should be given due consideration if they are custom designed, and one-off. It is often up to the appraiser to glean information from the jeweller about pieces submitted for appraisal.

There are, however, some indicators of one-ofa-kind cast manufacturing. There might be no indications of a mould, particularly the fine line seen where the halves of the mould meet, when the wax is injected for jewellery made in more than single numbers.

Appraisers have to be able to recognize types of work, methods used and qualities of work.

We need to identify whether jewels are made by hand, assembled from manufactured parts, or cast in a single piece. If they are cast, are they cast from a unique model, or are they are cast on a mass-production basis.

From foreign lands

Jewellery made offshore used to be crafted by processes obviously distinct from local production. Changes in chains of supply have meant that it is pretty difficult to distinguish local from far-away production. There is some really excellent jewellery manufacturing in India, China, Thailand and other countries, and these countries are producing for the North American and European markets in karats of gold for the target market. Jewellery markets have embraced these jewels, and they are often difficult to distinguish from items of local production.

From top to bottom: porosity in ring; metalwork Mokume Heidi Schnabel; handmade versus cast manufactured piece.

Is there a reason for allocating a difference to value in Indian-made jewellery and Canadian-made jewellery? If the quality is equivalent, is it not appropriate to give the same value? The labour cost is not the same, and depending on the work involved, it might involve a small amount or a large amount of labour. In a simple item, the difference might be very little because the labour is a small part of the value, and gold is very expensive everywhere. In an item made in India or China with many hours of labour, the difference might be large because the precious metal component becomes much less than the value of the work to build the jewellery, so items made in Canada might merit higher values, if they’re identifiable as local.

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An appraisal is also a condition report of the item being examined. The appraiser is called on to describe jewellery in quality. Again, this is not “praise” or criticism, it is a report on the nature of the jewellery, it is an observation, noting damage, missing or damaged gems, observing, and creating documentary notation of jewellery as a condition report.

The appraiser must carefully examine and document the nature of jewellery. An appraisal is a record of a jewel, and as part of the record an estimate of value is provided. The documenting and estimate of value takes into consideration the methods of manufacture, design, labour, origins and condition, and while not “praising” as my kids used to call it, the document allows the reader (and insurance underwriter) to read between the lines and arrive at an opinion of the jewel.

So far, I haven’t yet said openly in an appraisal that the horrible thing should be crushed and melted, or conversely, that I covet the thing and don’t want to give it back. However, I suspect that the description may give it away. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823

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We wish to bring back profitability to your basic jewellery programs

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Polygon Report: polygonCJreport

Diamond Supply & Demand

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in September 2011. .

POLYGON/CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DIAMOND REPORT

Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.

SUPPLY & DEMAND Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends.

The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database.

Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a fourweek period in September 2011.

Most Popular: Carat

Most Popular: Cut

<0.30 .30-.37 .38-.45 .46-.49 .50-.69 .70-.79 .80-.89 .90-.99 1.00-1.25 1.26-1.49 1.50-1.99 2.00-2.99 3.00-3.99 4.00-4.99 5.00-5.99 >=6.00

1.40% 1.56% 1.90% 1.09% 7.10% 5.66% 4.05% 4.78% 22.64% 7.24% 17.12% 15.16% 5.85% 1.85% 1.54% 1.06%

2.82% 6.47% 5.21% 1.45% 12.54% 9.78% 2.82% 5.82% 25.36% 3.79% 9.91% 8.53% 2.97% 1.18% 0.85% 0.51%

Most Popular: Clarity

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat Asscher Baguette Cushion Emerald Half Moon Heart Marquise Old European Old Miner Oval Pear Princess Radiant Round Trapezoid Triangular

$1,791.27 $1,984.32 $2,089.40 $1,953.16 $2,473.51 $2,956.70 $3,123.08 $3,464.77 $4,483.73 $5,718.73 $6,353.64 $8,006.62 $12,268.46 $14,706.30 $18,464.94 $21,868.91

1.41% 0.01% 6.07% 4.16% 0.04% 0.56% 2.73% 0.51% 0.10% 3.61% 2.39% 14.80% 4.11% 59.01% 0.08% 0.39%

1.45% 0.14% 7.04% 4.93% 0.26% 1.58% 3.88% 0.43% 0.08% 4.02% 12.19% 5.03% 5.54% 52.19% 0.26% 0.79%

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

$6,147.61 $2,108.80 $4,864.40 $5,058.58 $1,859.36 $3,818.75 $2,877.33 $3,580.57 $3,005.79 $3,889.78 $3,404.51 $4,002.04 $5,282.81 $5,183.35 $2,171.42 $2,312.03

IF FL VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3

2.69% 2.27% 4.33% 5.28% 12.05% 20.56% 26.22% 17.78% 2.92% 4.98% 0.80% 0.11%

3.32% 0.02% 5.98% 8.05% 16.52% 18.55% 19.76% 18.16% 3.94% 4.54% 0.81% 0.13%

$8,621.20 $29,318.01 $5,805.55 $5,717.89 $5,368.80 $5,119.16 $4,245.11 $3,725.71 $2,350.96 $2,196.82 $1,584.70 $738.23

Most Popular: Overall

Most Popular: Colour Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

Shape

Carat

Colour

Clarity

Demand (%)

Supply (%)

Avg. Price per Carat

Shortage/ Surplus

SI1 1.00-1.25 $5,561.48 3.33% Round G 0.36% SI1 1.50-1.99 $7,509.36 G 2.49% Round 0.19% SI1 2.00-2.99 $9,298.61 G 2.06% Round 0.17% SI1 0.50-0.69 $2,148.73 H 1.12% Round 0.18% SI1 1.26-1.49 $6,321.33 G 1.10% Round 0.06% SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,094.82 Princess G 0.87% 0.06% SI1 0.70-0.79 0.74% $3.080.67 Round H 0.14% SI1 3.00-3.99 $10,324.89 0.65% Round H 0.05% SI1 0.90-0.99 $4,309.04 0.65% Round G 0.08% SI1 0.80-0.89 $3,676.99 0.57% Round G 0.05% SI1 1.50-1.99 $4,985.00 0.51% Princess G 0.02% SI1 2.00-2.99 $6.285.83 0.46% G Princess 0.02% VS2 1.50-1.99 $6,045.16 0.39% G Cushion 0.04% VS2 2.00-2.99 $8,635.97 0.35% G Cushion 0.06% SI1 0.70-0.79 $1,935.98 0.33% Princess H 0.01% SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,353.36 0.33% G Cushion 0.12% SI1 0.50-0.69 $1,381.04 0.32% H Princess 0.01% The Diamond Price report is provided by Polygon for the benefit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewelry professionals SI1 0.38-0.45 $1,600.78 0.30% G Round 0.06% dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond SI1 1.26-1.49 $2,971.60 0.29% Princess H 0.01% database, as of the date shown. Actual transaction prices are confidential lower.0.29% This matrix counts of SI1 4.00-4.99and may $13,354.03 Round H be somewhat 0.02% SI3 as I1 for purposes

D E F G H I J K+

8.76% 10.19% 15.92% 20.95% 19.87% 13.52% 5.77% 5.03%

10.88% 13.64% 15.41% 16.49% 14.11% 10.55% 6.17% 7.58%

$5,322.52 $4,787.53 $5,105.95 $5,061.58 $4,706.61 $4,355.97 $3,906.11 $2,270.55

p g averages. g g p , as will stones at the higher g g range. g The data represents p computing In g general,, finer makes will command higher prices, end of each weight the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information.

PRICING The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of October 1st, 2011. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages.

In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information

Polygon.net is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewellery 1/3Polygon CARAT has (0.30 - 0.49) 1/2 opportunities CARAT (0.50 that - 0.69) professionals. Since 1984, helped members gain invaluable knowledge and find unique trading have significantly impacted VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2Members SI1 benefit SI2 fromI1 IF socialVVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 online SI1 selection SI2 of estate I1 the yearIF over year growth of their business. best-in-class professional network tools and the largest pieces, high watches,2986 jewellery, loose2302 diamonds, coloured The high calibre of the4864 membership the active participation D 4061end3385 2706 1805 1633stones, 1256pearls, coinsDand more.

8426 6388 5203 4328 and 3618 2754 1664 ofEsome3322 of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade.

3106 2792 2494 2153 1724 1519 1198 E 6500 5380 4908 4468 3879 3216 2556 1648 F G H I J K

3241 2926 2772 2 2 2548 2379 1914

2917 2651 2606 2393 2209 1856

2563 2405 2258 22 8 2162 1938 1507

2278 2217 2018 1820 1674 1414

2055 1956 186 1867 1666 1421 1281

1638 1430 1155 F 5594 5096 4587 4367 3738 2880 2451 1555 1603 1411 1084 G 5171 4798 4349 3983 3336 2637 2109 1529 1 1523 23 1348 1033 H 4 4729 29 44 4455 4001 3320 30 3052 2 2460 199 1995 1 1518 18 1471 1300 943 I 4088 3902 3457 2924 2590 2157 1963 1448 1-800-221-4435 | info@polygon.net | www.polygon.net 1286 1197 842 J 3574 3352 3058 2756 2297 1921 1804 1287 ∙ Watches ∙ Gold2292 & Precious Metals ∙1746 Coins ∙ Estate and more!

1167Jewellery 1010∙ Diamonds 728 ∙ Coloured Stones K 2786 ∙ Pearls 2660 1895 1610Pieces 1514 1118

Find out how you can be part of one of the most exclusive groups of jewellery professionals.

D E F G H I J K

D E F G H I J K

D E F G H I J K

IF

VVSI

3/4 CARAT (0.70 - 0.89) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

SI2

3890 3667 3498 3366 3035 2698 2309 1839

2217 2158 2072 1961 1928 1915 1768 1459

IF

27008 18675 15725 12546 10684 8746 7275 6188

VVSI

19061 16309 13332 11689 10056 8384 7044 5880

1 CARAT (1 (1.00 00 - 1 1.49) 49) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

SI2

6652 6373 6012 5709 5508 5024 4513 3756

I1

3752 3489 3252 3067 2967 2773 2503 2257

IF

VVSI

2 CARAT (2.00 - 2.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

SI2

I1

11648 8276 7587 6983 6046 5036 4046 3114

51851 34059 30015 25046 18800 14372 12061 10214

8140 7247 6978 6024 5566 4698 3798 2905

39731 31878 27926 21751 17619 14007 11438 10022

7300 6603 6160 5648 4980 4383 3489 2637

6235 6053 5713 4998 4528 3929 2954 2465

5724 5242 4967 4561 4104 3713 2919 2184

16268 13506 11198 13388 11396 9739 11275 10615 8965 10516 8919 8194 8907 7978 7233 7439 6730 6417 6654 5902 5534 5427 5080 4756

33975 28963 24378 19227 16654 13309 11006 9365

27748 23567 20946 16718 14779 11808 9505 8395

20777 18056 17632 14644 12454 10573 8580 7654

4580 4398 4316 3975 3701 3163 2586 2030

8168 7384 7223 6866 6367 5664 4928 4108

15961 11416 14160 10547 12975 10456 11969 9879 10998 9387 9544 8552 7898 7242 6994 6059

I1

5537 5077 4318 4032 4016 3991 3589 3187

D E F G H I J K

D E F G H I J K

D E F G H I J K

IF

VVSI

9/10 CARAT (0.90 - 0.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2

SI1

SI2

IF

VVSI

1 1/2 CARAT (1 (1.50 50 - 1 1.99) 99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

SI2

13531 12598 10728 12461 11158 8940 10986 9881 7982 9213 8362 6760 7956 7087 6523 6677 6097 5583 5788 5067 4781 4376 4093 3665

33239 23402 20227 16313 13684 11319 9720 6913

IF

105149 69000 56233 45662 32179 24867 20036 15205

24477 20680 17520 14495 12551 10584 8822 6797

VVSI

77097 62218 50045 41656 30317 23768 17848 14904

21185 17458 15564 13303 11657 9732 8475 6687

8928 7473 7230 6519 5707 5004 4386 3141

17851 15774 13840 12131 10310 8940 7484 6174

7398 6953 6623 5940 5433 4703 3853 2867

15066 11202 13483 10304 11998 10251 10959 9418 9678 8459 8154 7248 6687 6018 5598 5020

3 CARAT (3.00 - 3.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 58942 51325 43007 33998 27860 22737 16921 12499

49786 40406 36154 29564 24754 19340 15405 11121

6269 5786 5654 5130 4827 4221 3644 2825

38835 32639 29547 24466 19357 16210 13515 11100

SI1

23884 20959 19667 17602 14468 12191 10653 9445

5244 4956 4778 4465 4168 3667 3248 2318

8786 8301 7944 7239 6826 6155 5377 4529

SI2

15572 15284 14119 13163 12068 10437 9429 8442

I1

2984 2893 2803 2510 2380 2336 2201 1914

I1

4624 3958 3597 3369 3318 3126 2619 2528

I1

7260 6455 5771 5360 4950 4813 4416 3352

Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones, pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's Polygon s community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email info@polygon.net for more information.

The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.

XX-XX.CJ_Polygon Charts.indd 40

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For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 88

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www.canadianjeweller.com

10/24/11 9:03:45 AM

BETTER

coverstory

Beth Saunders believes the Canadian Jewellery Group can give independent retailers a fighting chance.

By Carlos Weigle Photography by Rive Gauche Media

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| november 2011

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From left to right: Jennifer Scott (A Touch of Gold), Ralph Hess (Hess Jewellers), Rose Taylor (Taylor’s Jewellers), Wayne Fisher (Richardson’s Jewellers), Lou Alteen (L.J. Alteen Jewellers), John Halsall (JR Jewellers), Brian VandenDool (VandenDool Jewellers), Beth Saunders (CJG’s General Manager) Ernie Epp (Independent Jeweller), Missing from photo: Todd Wright (Wright’s Jewelry).

ife can be unpredictable sometimes. When seven jewellers in Northern Ontario decided to join efforts in 1977, they probably didn’t anticipate the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG) would become what it is now: Canada’s foremost group of independent jewellers: a thriving organization that includes 95 retailers and 114 stores, across Canada.

The same unpredictability rule could apply to Beth Saunders, who moved to Huntsville, Ont. twenty years ago, unaware she was to devote as many years to the CJG. “We had just moved here and I was looking for something to do once the kids were all in school,” says Saunders. “With a banking background I answered an ad for the Canadian Jewellery Group. I worked on their accounting for seven years and then became general manager in 1998.”

It’s fair to say that Saunders knows what the CJG is all about: “All of the members are independent retailers. We’re non-profit, in a sense, as all profits are divided among the shareholders. Every retail member owns a share in the company. They get rebates at the end of the year based on how much business they bring to the group.”

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Saunders keeps current through involvement in industry associations.

She is a director on the board of Jewellers Vigilance Canada, and served as President from 2008 to 2010; a past director of the Canadian Jewellers Association; and has been a member of the Jewellery Advisory Council for Georgian College since 2007. Saunders was one of five women invited to join the Canadian Jewellers 24 kt Club in 2007, a first for the previously all-male organization, and currently sits as the first woman on their board of directors.

Why Join?

One of the primary motivations for joining a buying group is that it allows members to get better prices on merchandise. One misconception is that

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/21/11 10:09:39 AM

Blouse; Phillip Lim, Skirt; J. Crew Styling by Terri Dacquisto, Makeup/Hair by Claudine Baltazar

coverstory

members will be forced to buy from certain suppliers or that the group will actually buy for them. According to Saunders, that isn’t the case: “Members are not restricted to buying from our suppliers. However, by supporting Group suppliers they benefit from the prenegotiated discounts and rebates. As well, payment terms are a minimum 30 days from statement date and can go as high as 60 days, far in excess of the industry standard of 10 to 15 days.”

Speaking of payment, another advantage the CJG offers their members is the ability to make one single monthly payment, which the group uses to

pay all the different suppliers on behalf of the retailer. “Some retailers think we buy for them, yet we don’t,” clarifies Saunders. “They’re independent store owners and independents don’t want anybody to buy for them, so we pay the suppliers for them and they pay us.”

For an independent retailer, who takes pride in succeeding by him or herself, to join a group may seem counterintuitive. While the answers to that question are varied, the truth of the matter is that it’s a very competitive market out there, and even the toughest contenders can, at times, use a little help. www.canadianjeweller.com

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| november 2011

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Dress; Elie Tahari.

Styling by Terri Dacquisto, Makeup/Hair by Claudine Baltazar

Staying competitive

Brian VandenDool, President of the CJG’s board of directors and co-owner of VandenDool Jewellers, tells what motivated him to join the group.

“Our store was located in downtown St. Catharines (southern Ontario) and there was a lot of competition to contend with,” he explains. “We were also looking to increase our market share and not just maintain what we were doing. Our parents – who owned the store then – were looking for a competitive advantage and found it in the CJG.” Wayne Fisher, also a CJG board member and owner of Richardson’s Jewellery in Lloydminster, Alta., tells his own story: “The store was doing fine yet we knew we could get better pricing and terms if we were part of a bigger group, and that spells profit! When you’re an independent, you feel you are on your own and have no one else to bounce ideas or concerns off of.” What qualifies a retailer as an “independent,” by the way? As far as the CJG is concerned, someone who has five or less stores.

Certainly sharing ideas is one of the most appealing aspects of belonging to a network. Yet, how does that work? Would you be sharing your best strategies with your direct competitors? One of the CJG’s goals is to ensure that doesn’t happen. As Saunders explains it, “we accept one retailer from

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each territory, especially if it’s a small town. In the larger centres we might have a few, depending on the market. For instance, we have three in Edmonton, three in Calgary and four in Winnipeg. We are the only buying group in Canada with members from coast to coast and this gives our members a unique opportunity to learn what works for jewellers in other provinces as well as their own.”

Aside from annual rebates (which amounted to $795,000 this year), simplified payments and networking, the CJG also offers its members the opportunity to buy from a variety of select manufacturers that they wouldn’t have access to otherwise. According to Ralph Hess, board member and owner of Hess Jewellers, Sault Ste. Marie, Ont., “it helps me get into different product lines that I wouldn’t normally have bought myself.”

Nowadays the group has relationships with sixty-eight vendors.

Even though a few are from the U.S., the majority are from Canada. “That’s what we’ve tried to do, support the Canadian manufacturers as much as we can,” says Saunders. Retailers and vendors have a chance to get together and find new business opportunities every August in Toronto during the CJG’s exclusive trade show. The event also serves as a perfect occasion to get together and reward the best supplier and retailers of the year.

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/21/11 10:12:21 AM

coverstory

Marketing is key

Marketing is another area where the CJG is focusing their efforts. Launched three years ago, the National Diamond Store is the group’s marketing program and a successful initiative so far. “About half of our retailers have already signed on to it,” explains Saunders. “We do in-store marketing for them, radio advertising, newspaper ads, you name it. It’s something we’re continuing to build on.”

Being in an organization such as the CJG gives its members a unique perspective of the industry’s many challenges. Ernest D. Epp, board member and owner of Independent Jewellers, in Winnipeg, lists some of them: “Suppliers becoming retailers and selling directly on the Internet, an aging population without a corresponding growth in the younger demographics, commoditization on many products…”

something that they’re very comfortable with,” she adds.

Even the ones with an online presence sometimes take the wrong approach.

As Saunders sees it, “some jewellers tend to have a lot of product on their website yet if they have just a little bit, to show the consumer what they offer and some pricing, it drives them into the store instead of having them spending hours on the Internet.”

The seemingly unstoppable price of gold and diamonds is also changing the way retailers do business. Consumers looking at the price of a gold bracelet are having second thoughts, causing retailers to increase their silver jewellery options. Retailers have also changed the way they buy. As Saunders points out, “they are a lot more cautious about what they carry in inventory.”

Yet even in uncertain times, there is always VandenDool adds a few more himself: Top: Beth Saunders with Ralph Hess from Hess Jewellers and cause for optimism. That oftentimes “Competition from chain stores and big Wayne Fisher from Richardson’s Jewellers.

Bottom: Beth Saunders with Jennifer Scott from A Touch of translates in giving back to the community. box stores, trying to have our customers Gold and Rose Taylor, Taylor’s Jewellers The CJG certainly believes in that. For 10 spend their disposable income on jewellery years participating members have sold the instead of electronics or vacations, having CJG Christmas Charity ornament and donated the funds to their local access to the proper lines of jewellery and buying at the best prices…” charities, raising over $250,000 to date. The Group as a whole has been On top of all that, VandenDool emphasizes what may be the biggest involved in another charitable organization – Mike’s Miracles – for the challenge of all, “trying to stay relevant in today’s retail marketplace is a last few years. “Unfortunately, one of our directors lost his son to cancer concern that every independent has.” so we’ve done fundraisers for Mike’s Miracles and donated the money to causes,” explains Saunders. “This year, for the first time, we held a silent Embrace the web auction and collected scrap gold and raised $17,600 for Ronald McDonald Staying relevant – and competitive – is no easy task. The Internet is Houses across Canada.” usually at the top of most people’s blame list. However, the CJG believes it’s a tool that can be put to work for you. “We have helped our members Life can be unpredictable, no doubt about it. Yet when it comes to business, set up Facebook pages and have a company that does websites for them. there are ways you can protect yourself. Getting together with your peers We also do e-marketing and create e-flyers,” says Saunders. “A number and fighting for your place in the sun is certainly a way to do so. [CJ] of our retailers are from an older generation and the Internet is not www.canadianjeweller.com

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“Custom” BUILT TO LAST Technology takes the venerable art of custom-made jewellery to a whole new level

Steve Kalm ring with fancy emerald and antique diamonds from The Goldworks Ltd.

by Irina Lytchak

C

ustom-made jewellery has always been a vital practice that helped retailers connect with their clients on a more personal level. With today’s technological advancements reaching new heights in the custom design sector of the jewellery industry, retailers have the ability to make the ties with their customers that much stronger by offering a faster manufacturing process, more detailed design options, and most importantly, impeccable service.

Technological Progression

Many of today’s top jewellery retailers and designers are testifying to the fact that technology has come a long way in the past few years when it comes to designing a piece of jewellery for a client. “The main thing in the way it’s changed is just the ability to create anything that I can come up with,” says Elliot Mereski, a jeweller specializing in custom design at family-owned The Goldworks Ltd. in Lethbridge, Alberta. “Thanks to technology, I can sit down with the customer and build absolutely anything that I can think of and what they want. So there are no limitations in the design process.

That’s a big change and it’s really helped improve the quality and just let our creativity come out in our pieces.”

The longstanding practice of jewellery design has always called on manufacturers to work with existing moulds or carve by hand, which is still done today depending on the intricacy of the piece. Yet now programs like CAD, a computer-based design and drafting technology, and more specifically,Gemvision Matrix, a type of CAD software that also allows the rendering images of custom orders that are sent to the client for approval, allow jewellery makers to use computer innovation for creating custom orders.

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Knar’s 18k white gold ladies diamond and ruby ring

Custom-designed piece created by Michelle Graff of National Jeweler

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Studio 1098’s 18k white gold and diamond bracelet

“Luckily, my dad likes to be on the cutting-edge of jewellery and so he had been looking at the CAD systems and laser welders and all of the really advanced tools,” says Mereski. “It’s really important to stay up-todate because somebody who’s carving by hand, would have a really hard time competing against somebody who can do a more accurate job on the computer.”

Bob Cox, chief sales and marketing officer at Stuller, adds that about four years ago, there were very few customization opportunities available to clients other than traditional trade shop work. Nowadays, companies like Stuller and DeBeers are adding new options such as ‘build-a-ring,” a feature that allows potential customers to use the Internet to enhance the design process by selecting all of the necessary elements they may prefer including the style of mounting, the shape, the size and the colour of a stone.

“In this industry, the usage of technology in customization will become more and more prevalent simply because the younger generation grew up with technology,” says Cox. “This is an expectation that they just bring in with them to the shopping experience. If they can design a running shoe, then they have every reason to expect that they ought to be able to come in and modify rings or jewellery in the same context.”

Turning old into new

A large portion of custom jewellery sales is generated from clients who bring in their old pieces and have them reworked into something completely new, or who choose to take certain elements like stones and use them to accent a new or a completely different piece. Most jewellers are experienced with reconstructing worn-out antique pieces and doing things like rebuilding shanks, building new setting heads and setting new gems. The central goal for many customers when they bring in an old piece of jewellery is rescuing its originality and making it more durable and stronger for the next generation to wear.

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Studio 1098’s 18k yellow gold earrings with diamonds and Swarovski crystals

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/20/11 11:57:33 AM

For details, write #123 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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10/20/11 11:31:20 AM 8/23/11 10:35:20 AM

productfocus “A lot of times, a customer has her grandmother’s ring yet she wants to take some design elements off of it, possibly build it in white gold and maybe change the stones around,” explains Mereski. “We try to take inspiration from whatever the customer’s drawn to and really emphasize on trying to build exactly what the customer wants.”

John Van de Kamer, manager of Knar Jewellery in Guelph, Ontario, says that working with antique and old jewellery pieces makes up for about 50 per cent of his total custom design sales. A lot of the customers who are looking into revising heirloom pieces also find themselves to be financially comfortable and are not afraid to splurge on getting a luxurious stone or setting added to their old piece.

“Oftentimes, people get those milestone ideas. For a lot of our clients, the kids are now looked after, the house is paid for and they want to treat themselves,” says Kamer. “A lot of our clients are professional women and they run their own show… because they’re working so hard, they want to be rewarded. They envision the possibilities.”

The Indefinite Shopper

One of the things that occurs quite commonly when a client comes into a store for custom work, is that they don’t have a solid idea of the kind of end product they’d like to see. However, many jewellers and manufacturers are all too familiar with this experience and feel comfortable and prepared to work with the client in order to take them through the creative process step-by-step. “A large number of our staff members are actually trained goldsmiths who are able to communicate in broad strokes about what people are interested in and can get down to the nitty gritty details of the design process. When it comes to gems, we have gemologists on staff that work with clients if they’re after a particularly interesting type,” says Kamer. “The challenge is that you’ve got to be able to convey to your staff the possibilities that are out there. If you can’t express that effectively, then they can’t talk to the clients in an intelligent way either.”

Paul Hofland, owner of Ph Design, is also very accustomed to helping clients during the design process, specifically by providing them with images of already-made pieces and then narrowing it down to precise details such as style, price, size, colour and texture.

“We can definitely modify whatever [the client] brings because we’re making it custom, we can make whatever somebody wants,” says Hofland.

“If they see something they like, it’s usually because there is a good trend going through the market and we can duplicate or mimic that trend.”

The connection that’s developed between the jeweller and their client is one of the factors that sets many jewellery designers apart from the rest.

Mereski says he actually prefers it when his clients have very little idea about what kind of piece they would like to create from scratch; it allows for way more possibilities and less reservation from a customer that doesn’t have their mind strictly set on one concept.

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Top: Custom-designed piece created by Peggy Jo Donahue of MJSA Middle: White gold lavender sapphire ring rendering from The Goldworks Ltd. Bottom: 14k white gold family pendant with genuine birthstones and diamonds from The Goldworks Ltd.

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/20/11 11:57:46 AM

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666 For details, write #124 on Free Info Page, page 88

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productfocus 14k yellow gold ‘Inspiration’ ring from Ph Design.

“I always tell people to look at jewellery and see what’s out there and just pick some ideas that your eyes are drawn to. Then I’ll be the one to sketch it and draw it out in a way that’s going to work with your hand and work with the material and stones that you envision,” says Mereski.

‘Custom’ in Customer Service

Like many of the other store owners and retailers, Mereski says the service his family-owned business is able to provide in their community is what makes them stand out.

“When I’m designing a ring with a customer, I’m really trying to put myself in their head and understand how important it is to them to have something made. It’s not an inexpensive process in general. It’s a luxury item and it’s something that they’re going to have forever and they’re going to look at it every day,” he says. “I think of it as getting a tattoo almost, or think of it similarly as far as how important it is to somebody. [The clients] want to know that we care about what we’re building and we really want to make sure that every customer leaves happy.”

Stuller’s Cox adds that “increasing customer service and expanding the interactive experience in the store” is a major selling point for most jewellers in the custom design industry. “Obviously, people don’t embrace change easily and that’s one of the areas where we’re focusing on giving training tips and training aid to customers to accelerate the learning curve.” Stuller’s floor staff are highly trained in being able at turn over customers, upsell, overcome objections and develop their own selling style. “When you try to introduce the customization conversation addressed to a specific piece of jewellery, it requires a new way of thinking, communicating and selling.” All the characteristics that Stuller associates are trained to ensure for each customer with the help of the firm’s training programs.

18k yellow ‘Eternity’ ring from Ph Design.

Knar’s Kamer agrees, “The ability to satisfy clients with custom work is not even an option these days. You have to be able to do it in order to stay in business.”

A Look Ahead

Many jewellers have an optimistic outlook on the future of the custom design industry, that it will continue to grow stronger through the years.

Recent market numbers have shown that the prices of various metals and other materials are on the rise as a result of which, jewellery retailers and manufacturers are slowly being forced to carry less and less inventory.

Combined with the fact that people have a lot of old jewellery they don’t want to wear yet would rather redesign into something different and new, the odds are promising for the custom jewellery sector.

With the holiday season fast approaching, jewellers are already on the lookout for clientele that are interested in starting the design process earlier, whether it’s a custom piece created for themselves or as a special gift for someone close. [CJ]

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Two-tone fancy pendant with garnet from The Goldworks Ltd.

CUSTOM JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE Best Bargains 416.214.2582 Gee ‘N Gee 604.684.1131 www.geengee.com Importex 514.845.2900 www.importex.ca

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Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com

Mirage 877.BY MIRAGE www.miragecreations.com

Tech Emotion 514.858.1000 www.joaillerielangevin.ca

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10/20/11 11:57:57 AM

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Canadian Jeweller EN FRANÇAIS Un magazine réellement national Étant moi-même francophone, il est essentiel que je m’assure que Canadian Jeweller soit la revue par excellence pour tout Canadien impliqué dans notre métier. Le seul élément qui jusqu’à présent manquait pour atteindre cet objectif était une section en français dans notre magazine. Et nos vœux sont maintenant exhaussés!

Le Québec est – et a toujours été – une des premières destinations en matière de bijouterie. Ses détaillants, designers et fabricants sont parmi les meilleurs au pays. Et cependant, la belle province est souvent omise par les médias spécialisés anglophones. Je compte bien changer cette tendance!

Je reviens tout juste de l’Expo Prestige à Montréal, et j’ai tout simplement été époustouflé par la créativité et l’esprit d’entrepreneuriat de l’industrie de la bijouterie du Québec. Sa voix doit être entendue dans tout le pays et il est donc tout naturel et à propos que je m’exprime ici dans sa langue. Ces pages, qui à l’origine ont été écrites en français, célèbrent le fabuleux talent que le Québec a à off rir.

Le contenu sera propre à l’industrie de la province et ne sera pas reproduit en anglais, tout comme le contenu anglais ne sera pas traduit en français sur nos pages. Maintenant, c’est à vous de jouer : nous comptons sur vous pour nous procurer une direction et des idées qui reflèteront l’aspect unique de notre marché.

Olivier Felicio

Olivier Felicio Rédacteur en chef

CONTRIBUTEURS

Lise Petitpas

Carmen Rivet

Jean Langevin

Lise Petitpas œuvre depuis près de 40 ans dans des postes administratifs et a à son actif de nombres réalisations dans le domaine de la gestion d’organismes publics et sans but lucratif. Elle a contribué au développement de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec (C.B.Q.) où elle travaille avec passion depuis 1985.

Carmen Rivet, gemmologiste diplômée du GIA, est propriétaire unique d’une magnifique bijouterie à Saint-Lambert. L’excellence de son travail lui vaut une réputation qui traverse les frontières du Québec. Elle est très impliquée dans divers comités de l’industrie et de sa communauté.

Jean Langevin est le président de la Joaillerie Jean Langevin depuis 1990 et le propriétaire de Tech Emotion, le distributeur exclusif des collections Jean Langevin, depuis 2006. Il est bijoutier horloger de métier depuis 1979 et détient une grande expérience en matière de création de bijoux.

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

10/24/11 2:52:13 PM

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime.

Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

For details, write #126 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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Recyclage intelligent et créatif Recyclez, créez, brillez!

Donnez une seconde vie à vos vieux bijoux Par Carmen Rivet, G.G.

C

ombien de femmes ont un collier traditionnel de perles blanches dans le fond d’un tiroir. On ne les porte plus aussi souvent qu’autrefois. Trop classique? Trop démodé? Trop sérieux? Trop petit alors que la mode est aux plus gros bijoux?

On ne veut cependant pas s’en défaire, préférant conserver le souvenir du moment où on a reçu ce collier en cadeau, ou encore le souvenir de celle qui l’a porté avant nous, que ce soit notre mère, notre grand-mère, notre belle-maman, une sœur ou une amie.

Quand tous les titres des revues de mode nous parlent de « rétro », « clin d’œil au classique », « nostalgie », « jeux d’hier » et « plaisirs d’autrefois », conjuguons toutes ces tendances pour rajeunir le look d’un ancien collier. Plusieurs possibilités s’offrent aux perles pour sortir de leur retraite mais je ne peux pas toutes vous les démontrer ici. Je vous donne donc notre truc le plus populaire auprès des dames, le caméléon à 72 pouces.

S’il s’agit d’un collier en chute (perles de grosseurs inégales), commencez par le désenfiler, nettoyez les perles avec une eau savonneuse douce et rincez à l’eau tiède. Épongez-les avec un chiffon doux. Remettez-les à plat dans le désordre.

Ajoutez-y des perles d’autres couleurs, des billes de pierres variées selon les couleurs préférées de votre cliente : améthyste, malachite, quartz rose, pierre de soleil, péridot, grenat, citrine, tourmaline, lapis lazuli et billes d’or ou d’argent, et variez les grosseurs. Ne vous retenez pas, vous pouvez mélanger les couleurs et il n’est pas nécessaire que le motif soit régulier.

Amenez la longueur à environ 70 ou 72 po. Installez le résultat sur un fil temporaire pour le montrer à votre cliente qui peut vous demander d’ajouter du jaune ou de retrancher du gris, et vous vérifiez ensemble la longueur. Réenfilez avec des nœuds entre chaque bille ou du moins, de chaque côté des perles. Le fermoir n’est pas utile.

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2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Nous avons trouvé une douzaine de façons de porter ce nouveau collier : Sur un rang simple, c’est long, accrochant, c’est pour faire la belle seulement. Les actrices qui vont chercher leur oscar peuvent se permettre d’avoir un collier qui leur tombe presque jusqu’aux genoux... (Photo 1). Au besoin, faites-y un nœud pour le raccourcir un peu. (Photo 2) Sur deux rangs, c’est déjà plus facile à porter. Les deux rangs peuvent être égaux, légèrement distants ou un étrangleur avec un très long. (Photos 3-4-5).

La grande tendance est de placer ces deux rangs rapprochés et d’y ajouter une broche près du cou; on l’appelle la cravate qui ajoute une touche très féminine à une tenue d’affaire. (Photo 6). Aucun homme n’en aura une aussi magnifique!

Sur trois rangs, il peut encore passer par-dessus la tête sans avoir recours à un fermoir. À quatre rangs, c’est un magnifique collier court qu’on peut porter dans le désordre - ou en torsade. Il faut l’attacher avec un raccourcisseur, un anneau en or qui s’ouvre ou une épingle perlée, ou encore avec une

broche centrée en avant. Dites à vos clientes de ressortir leur vieux camée, le mélange du vieux et du nouveau fait fureur. On peut aussi ajouter un pendentif sur bélière à ouverture en plaçant le raccourcisseur en avant.

Et finalement, le collier peut se transformer en bracelet volumineux lorsque placé à huit rangs. Plus on le torsade, plus on le raccourci, ce qui convient à toutes les dimensions de poignets. (Photo 7).

Et pourquoi pas en ceinture? Elle sera étroite, mais quel raffinement ajouté à une tenue qui se distingue. Pour tailles 36 ou moins. Rappelez-vous, plus vous torsadez, plus vous raccourcissez. (Photo 8).

Joe Dassin chantait « on va sortir la nouvelle vague du fond des vieux tiroirs ». Voici justement une façon originale et amusante d’utiliser un collier qui s’ennuyait au fond du vieux tiroir, et d’en faire un accessoire mode qui fera jaser. Et pour vous, des clientes qui feront votre publicité. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

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Aujourd’hui et hier : anciens présidents de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec. De gauche à droite : Maurice Corriveau, Claude Migneault, André Marchand (président actuel), Michel Plourde et André Roy. Absents : Pierre Tremblay et Bernard Gauthier.

60 ans de

Prestige Par Lise Petitpas

Expo Prestige fête ses membres et présidents, passés, présents et futurs.

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André Marchand décerne les prix de l’Expo Prestige de 2011. De gauche à droite : Plus beau stand double, Cameron Gillies (Libman & Company); Plus beau stand multiple, Anecha Raghubir (Beverly Hills Jewellers); Plus beau stand simple, Alain Marcoux (Équipement Boni).

L

’Expo Prestige 2011 a connu un grand succès malgré le prix élevé de l’or, la conjoncture économique incertaine et la visite inattendue de l’ouragan Irène.

La 41e édition de l’Expo a dépassé nos attentes et tous les intervenants de l’industrie ont apprécié les nouveautés qui y étaient présentées.

Le comité organisateur a travaillé d’arrache-pied pour faire en sorte que l’Expo Prestige soit à la hauteur des attentes des exposants et des bijoutiers détaillants visiteurs.

Nous sommes très fiers de la qualité des exposants qui, année après année, nous présentent des collections de bijoux extraordinaires et investissent des sommes gigantesques pour les mettre en valeur.

Les exposants rehaussent de plus en plus l’esthétique de leurs stands d’exposition, de telle sorte que l’Expo Prestige est considérée comme la plus belle exposition au Canada, et nous en sommes très fiers.

C’est avec satisfaction que nous entendons les représentants de l’industrie de la bijouterie nous dire que c’est le Salon de bijouterie par excellence au Canada.

Cette année, les activités présentées et les décors de l’exposition tournaient autour des 60 ans de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec (C.B.Q.). En effet, des bannières et des affiches placées à plusieurs endroits stratégiques de l’Expo, mentionnaient les noms de tous les présidents de la C.B.Q. depuis 1952.

Lors du cocktail dînatoire du dimanche offert gratuitement aux exposants et aux visiteurs, grâce à la générosité de Création Malo, Papillon Gemme et la C.B.Q., on a rendu hommage aux présidents toujours vivants de la C.B.Q. Ainsi, nous avons le grand bonheur d’y rencontrer messieurs Maurice Corriveau, André Roy, Claude Migneault, Pierre Tremblay, Michel Plourde et André Marchand, l’actuel président.

Nous avons ensuite remis une plaque honorifique aux bijoutiers de l’année Madame Marilyne Lemieux et monsieur Pascal Charron de la Bijouterie Jacques Charron & Fils, élus par les représentants de l’A.C.R.B.

André Marchand décerne les prix de l’Expo Prestige de 2011. Bijoutiers de l’année, Marilyne Lemieux et Pascal Charron (Bijouterie Jacques Charron); Vendeur de l’année, Kevin Gauvin (Timex Group Canada).

Puis, nous avons dévoilé les noms des représentants ex-æquo de l’année, élus par les bijoutiers membres de la C.B.Q. : messieurs Kevin Gauvin de Timex Group Canada Inc. et Michel Thibaudeau de Corona Jewellery Company.

Les prix des plus beaux stands ont été remis à Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd. pour le stand multiple, Libman & Company (Division of Martin Ross Group.) pour le stand double et Équipement Boni Inc. pour le stand simple.

Ce fut donc sans contredit, une exposition de qualité à la hauteur de l’Industrie de la bijouterie. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

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oaillerie Jean Langevin, avec à sa tête son président monsieur Jean Langevin, ne compte plus les années d’expérience à son actif en matière d’expertise et de création de bijoux. Bijoutier/horloger de métier depuis 1979, c’est en 1990 que monsieur Langevin ajoute à son tableau la joaillerie.

En 1995, monsieur Langevin reçoit une invitation de la présidente de l’école de Gemmologie de Montréal et de l’Association de la perle de culture de Tahiti à se joindre à une expédition organisée par la GIE afin de visiter les très sélectes fermes perlières de Tahiti. Il participe à une formation sur les perles de Tahiti et est invité par le fait même en tant qu’observateur à plusieurs ventes aux enchères encourues par les marchands mondiaux de la perle de culture des mers du Sud de Tahiti.

Son intérêt pour les perles est vivement attisé et il poursuit sur cette lancée en gratifiant de sa présence différentes expositions à travers le monde lui permettant de découvrir le fascinant monde de la perle. Les multiples variétés de formes, de taille et de couleurs l’inspirent dans son processus de création.

En 2006, monsieur Jean Langevin se porte acquéreur de Tech Emotion établie sur la rue Chabanel à Montréal depuis plusieurs décennies. Sous la haute direction de son chef d’atelier monsieur Simon Marcil, Tech Emotion devient le distributeur exclusif des Collections Jean Langevin.

Tech Emotion : une perle rare Avec Tech Emotion, Jean Langevin se fait distributeur et créateur international

Ils travaillent en étroite collaboration à l’élaboration, à la création et à la réalisation de nouveaux designs. Ils unissent leur passion commune pour les perles afin d’offrir des pièces uniques en or vert, rose, jaune ou blanc sertis de perles Noires de Tahiti, Jaune d’Australie, Grise des Philippines et même de perles couleur Lavande en provenance d’Orient.

En effet, d’infinies possibilités s’offrent à la création d’une pièce de joaillerie et c’est pourquoi monsieur Jean Langevin et Tech Emotion ne cessent de se renouveler afin d’offrir des créations uniques. Leurs designs originaux en or 10k, 14k, 18k, 19k, Platine, Perle, Diamant canadien, Pierres fines ou de couleur font gage de qualité et d’originalité.

Tech Emotion est également l’unique distributeur au Québec pour la ligne de bijoux mode Italienne Amore Baci. Perles, Charms et Cristaux composent votre bijou selon votre humeur. Il distribue au Canada Charizma. Des bijoux aux lignes épurées utilisant à la base l’argent 925 et l’acier, arrivés directement d’Allemagne.

En plus d’être distributeur, Tech Emotion s’est bâti une solide réputation en création de bijoux sur mesure et a élargi sa gamme de service en offrant la réparation de bijoux. Ce dernier volet de plus en plus en demande, fût un tel succès que 150 bijoutiers font maintenant appel à l’expertise de Tech Emotion.

Plus de 50 000 réparations sont effectuées chaque année.

Que ce soit pour un service de réparation professionnel, pour la création d’un bijou sur demande pour votre clientèle ou pour devenir détaillant de Amore Baci, Charrizma ou pour la Collection Jean Langevin, Tech Emotion a la solution! [CJ]

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info@ pierrelaurent.com For details, write #127 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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10/20/11 11:46:57 AM

JVC COLUMN

COSTLY

JUSTICE

Even though police investigations are becoming more effective, the high cost of trials is sometimes a roadblock on the path to justice

By John Lamont, JVC's Director of Crime Prevention

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JVC COLUMN

We all have watched countless police TV programs where the crime is solved by the use of DNA evidence. These programs have big budgets. In real life the costs of investigations and the trials of criminals can be prohibitive. John Lamont, JVC's Director of Crime Prevention, believes that DNA and networking have changed the way police solve crimes and bring criminals to justice. However, the costs of justice are still high. In the first of two columns, John explains the impact DNA has had on crime and the justice system and points to the work that still needs to be done.

— Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC).

I

n the past twenty years DNA (acronym for deoxyribonucleic acid) has been one of greatest advances in police investigations. DNA is advancing all the time and has proven to be a “slam dunk” on many cases. It has not only identified subjects involved in criminal activities, it has also been able to clear innocent people charged with some offences. When the DNA of a subject is found at the scene of a crime it can lessen the chances of taxpayers having to pay for a long drawn out trial in court.

On December 10th, 1983, the Toronto Star reported in an article written

by Denise Harrington, how a simple court case came to cost Ontario tax payers more than $500,000 and not including the cost of the investigation before it got to court.

The case involved the arrest of a gang of six men who had robbed three jewellery stores. There were blood samples left at the scene of one of the robberies yet DNA was not in existence at that time.

It took just over a year for the case to be resolved. Each accused had a lawyer and all had the opportunity to examine the testimony of the victims and witnesses and every aspect of the police investigation.

All were eventually found guilty.

In the second robbery, one of the bandits cut his arm as he reached through the broken showcase glass to steal the diamonds. A DNA profile was obtained which subsequently identified one of the subjects. One individual was arrested and his DNA was matched to the profile – an opened and closed case. That’s the value of DNA, yet what about the others involved?

Why have there been no other arrests? These two robberies took place in smaller communities. Could it be cost? Are police officers hands tied by budget restraints and lack of personnel? Can the cost of prosecution be too high? Could there be a degree of frustration on the part of police.

Repeat offenders

“Today a trial may

cost millions. Should courts look at plea bargaining to prevent such cost?

”

The subject charged with these two offences, despite the seriousness of the charges and the strength of the case (based on DNA), was released on bail. In August of this year it is alleged the same individual went to a flea market in St Catherines with another male. Armed with a handgun he tried to rob a jeweller who had a display at the market. A struggle ensued and the jeweller was shot. Fortunately, he was not killed. Bullet fragments also injured other customers. Citizens in the area jumped the subject and held him for police.

His accomplice got away.

A hefty bill

Today that trial may cost millions.

Should that be a factor? Should courts look at plea bargaining to prevent such cost even if it means a lighter sentence for the accused?

Earlier this year, two jewellery store robberies took place in Southern Ontario. They were violent robberies that involved several masked men, one armed with a handgun. Staff members were traumatized. In one situation, a security guard that had been hired by the store to prevent such robberies was forced to the floor and a gun pointed at his head. Video captured from the two locations assisted in connecting the two robberies together as the people responsible wore the same clothing.

There are many hardworking police officers all across Canada that dedicate themselves to protecting the public. They need our support and all the help we can give them through our networking and sharing of information. The courts are another issue. Perhaps we as an industry must be more vocal in some of these cases. Perhaps JVC's next focus should be towards educating crown attorneys about the complexity and organized crime element in many jewellery store robberies. By organized crime we not only mean the traditional groups (i.e. mafia), we also mean street gangs or where three or more people are involved in a crime. The Criminal Code has a specific section dedicated to being a member of an organized gang and therefore the penalties for being involved in an "organized gang" crime are generally greater. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

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companyprofile | thebullionmart

Knowledge is

golden Moniruz Zaman applied his international experience and turned The Bullion Mart into a thriving company

BY CARLOS WEIGLE

E

xperience i;s certainly at the core of any successful business venture.

Theories can be learned at business schools yet nothing compares to “getting your feet wet,” living the challenges and realities of an industry on a daily basis.

Moniruz Zaman had the opportunity to do just that and he embraced it.

He started learning about the bullion business at an early age with his elder brother, Baduiz Zaman, who was considered one of Singapore’s most respected and biggest bullion dealers. With the company’s expansion, Moniruz Zaman was able to apply that knowledge in places such as Dubai, London and New York. “Whenever my brother’s company expanded, I had a new opportunity to learn.

The lessons were well learned. So much so that he finally reached a point where he realized it was time to start his own business. He chose Canada to open The Bullion Mart. It was 2001 and his office consisted of no more than a desk and a wealth of experience accumulated throughout the years.

Moniruz Zaman at his office in downtown Toronto.

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10/21/11 1:44:34 PM

“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.”

-An c i e n t ch i n e se Pro v e rb

Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance canada has served as a source of support and education for jewellers throughout canada.

A non-profit overseen by leading industry professionals, we’ve made it our mission to provide our members with the education needed to prevent crime, serve as a key resource for government agencies, and set industry standards that aid in building consumer confidence in the jewellery products they buy.

Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca

or call 1-800-636-9536

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry. crime Prevention • resource Protection • sAFety AwAreness

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companyprofile | thebullionmart

A TOUCH OF BOLD

Experience is crucial, of course, yet you also need to be brave enough to venture into unchartered territories if you want to grow. That is how, aside from buying and selling gold and other precious metals, Zaman went into refining, an area his brother hadn’t explored. The move was certainly a successful one as refining now accounts for approximately 25 per cent of Zaman’s total revenue.

“Refining is not something I got into when I started my company; it actually took me a while to learn it,” he admits. In terms of trading, he comes from the banking and financial sector, so “I used what I learned there plus what my brother taught me.” He also stayed awake many a sleepless night to monitor the New York markets. Fortunately he doesn’t have to do that anymore, now that he is in its same time zone.

The entrepreneur considers himself a reliable analyst, often consulted about the volatile gold and precious metals markets. His company deals with small investors yet also provides large amounts of gold to industrial companies. In addition, customers rely on his secure facilities to keep millions of dollar’s worth of gold.

a few months ago, into a 3,000-sq. ft. one. Even though The Bullion Mart is still located in the same building where it started, in an area of downtown Toronto traditionally populated by the jewellery industry, it’s nothing like the original company. These days it houses 15 employees, as well as some impressive high-tech machinery. One of them is an XRF machine (a spectrometer), capable of analyzing any piece of metal in 60 seconds or so and lists every component in it.

SILVER OR GOLD?

Where is gold heading to? That’s probably one of the questions Zaman gets more often. “Some analysts predict it will reach $3,500, some even $5,000 an ounce. I know it’s going to hit $2,000 at any time now.”

The truth is, lately, changes in prices have been very sudden and drastic at the same time. “If you go back ten or even five years back, it would take years for the price of gold to fluctuate $100; nowadays it can go up and down that amount within one day,” he explains. “It’s very scary for the market, and that’s one of the reasons many small traders are getting kicked out and many big traders are coming into the business.”

Zaman believes that, in spite of recent price setbacks, gold will continue to be on the rise until the world economy gets back on track. In other words, it might take a while…

Gold melting at the Bullion Mart

Gold is a topic Zaman knows inside out. Yet the changes he’s seen in that market in the last ten years are nothing short of remarkable. “It was also a buying market back then, of course,” he says. “However, at that time the volume of transactions was at a level one; today I’d say it’s at a level nine,” he concludes.

That level of activity has obviously impacted his business and made it grow.

What started as a 200-square feet office turned into a 600–sq. ft. one and, just

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In the meantime, silver has been doing very well, thank you. Zaman sees its growing potential, especially when considering its industrial use. “China needs a lot of silver to build solar panels and, unlike gold, that silver is not coming back to the market,” he explains. “In today’s market, silver is at $32 yet it can reach $150 or $200 anytime. Within a five-year period, investors can get 140 per cent return with gold while getting 300 per cent with silver.”

Knowledge, experience, service and a touch of boldness are all great ingredients to create a thriving business venture. Moniruz Zaman and The Bullion Mart can check all those boxes and look ahead to years of growth. [CJ]

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

10/21/11 1:45:17 PM

12AJS021.pdf

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For details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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10/20/11 11:55:01 AM

computer-assisteddesign

R

design

evolution CAD and CAM software are helping jewellers be more competitive and more imaginative at the same time

BY E. Z. GULER-TUCK

F

rom the early days of casting and carving, straight through the mass production era of the Industrial Revolution, over the years, how we engineer things, from clothing to industrial buildings, has radically changed with the use of software technology. In the last two decades, jewellery design is one of the many sectors that has taken a 3D turn into the world of Computer â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Aided Design (CAD), as well as Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM), and many retailers are finding that this type of software is saving them time, money and hassle.

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computer-assisteddesign

“These days, as it is with many crafts, it is difficult to find hand jewellers that can work a piece of metal into a beautiful piece of jewellery. Even if one did have access to an experienced and good jeweller, the time required to make a piece of jewellery would not be acceptable to today’s buying clientele who needed their piece yesterday,” says Diana Metzen of 123 Proto, a full CAD/CAM-capable jewellery service bureau.

“Custom” is the name of the game and nowadays, clients want to be more engaged in the design process. With CAD, a photorealistic printout of their piece to sign off on helps avoid creative misunderstandings down the road.

This involvement also enhances the customer experience, increasing the emotional attachment to the jewellery, which the customer has helped design rather than just pick out. CAD/CAM allows for the rapid creation of these designs and their physical prototypes, which satisfies the customer’s need for “on-demand.”

CAD FOR KEEPS

“By creating virtual models of jewellery on the computer, jewellers can easily see the real appearance of their designs at a desired magnification. They can also resize and modify their designs as needed,” says John Schindler, M.Sc., P.Eng., President of Schindler Technologies Corporation - a provider of CAD/CAM systems, support, training and services.

The adoption of CAD to a retailer’s business model means a shift in gears toward the rapid production of unusual, one-of-a-kind pieces; easy adaptation to the most current fashion trends; lower shipping costs; neat and tidy stock rooms no longer overflowing with umpteen dozen different styles and models; less capital required to maintain a showroom; and no more heft y insurance premiums for all those pieces. It’s a win-win, where those who ride the technology wave prosper, while those who stick to their guns risk getting left behind.

COMPARE SOFTWARE

Jewellers recognize that there are various types of soft ware to consider when assessing what will work best for their business. Matrix, ArtCAM JewelSmith, Digital GoldSmith, 3Design Jewel, JewelCad, RhinoGold, RhinoJewel and CounterSketch are some of the top contenders in the market. “Years ago we started off with a program called Digital GoldSmith, where our client could bring in their ring, photograph it, add some stones to it and make a matching wedding ring,” explains Shele Letwin of GV Design Canada Inc., the Canadian authorized dealer for GemVision — the international CAD/CAM pioneer that launched the Matrix 3D soft ware

and provides training for the jewellery industry in North America. “We said ‘we want something specific to our industry.’ We decided to partner up with Rhino. It took us a year to develop Matrix,” Letwin continues.

McNeel North America manufactures Rhino, a free-form computer modeller that is used as the base for elaborate soft ware such as Matrix, RhinoGold and RhinoJewel.

“Rhino supplies the core and Matrix supplies the smarts [plug-ins] – they use our model and make it ‘speak jewellery.’

That’s important for jewellers because they’re not computer geeks. Matrix wraps it up and makes it simple,” notes Scott Davidson of McNeel North America. When asked why certain soft ware is favoured over others, Davidson answers, “Matrix is best for retailers who produce in large volumes.

RhinoGold is a little less sophisticated and efficient on findings, however allows for more flexibility in design.”

Speaking of affordable and easy-to-use, after developing Matrix with Rhino, GemVision launched CounterSketch for Stuller, a program that would help retailers “ease into CAD,” as Shele Letwin puts it. “CounterSketch is library-based, so the jeweller doesn’t have to create something from scratch. They can just pitch something from the library…size it to fit their hand, adjust to fit their stone sizes, render it, just like in Matrix, in the different

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hotholidaypicks hotholiday hot computer-assisteddesign holidaypicks holiday picks

metal colours, and it’ll do a quote right there on the spot,” Letwin explains.

As CAD soft ware continues to develop, the demands of the industry will no doubt lead to the development of more user-friendly plug-ins, features and affordable programs, allowing more time to “sell, sell, sell.” “CAD is going to be here for a long time and is one of the best steps for anyone who wants to help their business grow,” emphasizes Michael Myslicki, CAD/CAM Jewellery Designer and Division Manager at Ready Mounts, a provider of casting, semi-finished and finished mounts.

While the abundance of more easy-to-use software is definitely on the rise, there are still retailers that do not put the necessary time into training and setting up their in-house CAD/ CAM capabilities. “Retailers are purchasing the software and the prototyping machines only to have them gather dust in the corner somewhere. In reality, you need about three months of good exposure and usage of the software to [be]…able to use it with speed when you are working with a client sitting right next to you,” stresses Diana Metzen. That is why there are service bureaus that offer complete CAD/ CAM services to provide jewellers with peace-of-mind.

THE GOOD OLD DAYS

TRENDS FOR TOMORROW

Recent trends in CAD have brought a whole new meaning to custom design, “through the years we have seen popular features such as adding fingerprints of loved ones to designs. You could never do this by hand, which is why CAD is perfect for that. Also popular is to add your company’s trademark anywhere on the object,” details Michael Myslicki.

More designer-friendly plug-ins for Matrix seem to be prevalent with technologies such as T-Splines. “Designers have not gotten on board [with CAD], since their whole process of creating is sitting on the bench and carving a wax or drawing with a pencil. Incorporating T-Splines into the program [will make it] softer with more flowing things, more pieces of art, and that’s what jewellery is supposed to be,” Shele Letwin points out.

The replacement of actual jewellery pieces with their 3D model counterparts is projected to downsize the inventory of many showrooms. Diana Metzen foresees that, “instead of carrying an inventory of pieces, stores would carry an inventory of easily accessible 3D realistic renderings.” Today, companies such as Stuller and Ready Mounts already provide retailers with 3D prototypes to showcase in their stores.

In the end, when the final product is glistening in the showroom lights, the customer is beaming from ear-to-ear, and the jeweller is admiring that perfect little piece of heaven, each step that went into engineering this work-of-art continues to draw attention to, and demonstrate a passion for the jewellery industry, what it stands for, and the people who have brought it to where it is today. [CJ]

Now that retailers and even more designers have started to prefer using CAD software, whether it be to try different sizes and materials, or expand upon their original sketches, there is still a large school of artisans who believe that the beauty of each wearable work-of-art is determined by the time and creative imagination that goes into drawing, carving and setting each material and stone. While the industry is evolving through this techno-revolution, there is still a need for craftsmen to advance the trade. “When the models are still predominantly made by hand and taken off a rubber mold, you still need a guy who can carve out a wedding band in 20 minutes. The goldsmith out there is finally realizing that no one is losing their job if companies are buying [CAD software] and using it,” states Shele Letwin.

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Polygon Featured Member Meet Arthur Gordon.

Arthur Gordon, owner of JewelSmiths jewellery stores, with two locations in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, is a 3rd generation bench jeweller and custom designer. JewelSmiths features handmade jewellery expertise in original, classic or contemporary styling.

Specializing exclusively in platinum and gold, they are also known as the "Jeweller's Jeweller" for creating high-end custom jewellery which is sold in stores nationwide. Their award winning jewellery design team routinely creates custom jewellery made to order.

In addition to their custom pieces, JewelSmiths also features a wide range of luxury and designer jewellery and watches including Galatea, Simon G, Ashi and Ball watches.

"Polygon has become an invaluable part of the way I do business. I have been a member for over 16 years now and have watched the network evolve into what it has become today.

Polygon is an online community of people actively involved in the jewellery industry who have a keen interest in sharing and gaining knowledge that helps them in their day to day business activities and decisions.

Arthur comes from a long line of jewellers. His grandfather settled in Oklahoma before Oklahoma was even an official state, and other relatives of his were importing diamonds into the United States as early as 1878.

Visit JewelSmiths at: www.jewelsmiths.net Email: sales@jewelsmiths.net

I grew up in the jewellery trade. Business today is fast paced and requires different skills than it did in previous years. It is therefore a must that every jewellery business owner keep abreast of the trends, industry happenings and news, pricing and other information that can affect the business decisions we all make on a daily basis. I own two full service jewellery stores and cannot imagine running them without access to the knowledge I get from Polygon.

Polygon's Conclaves - held in different locations every year allow members to meet face to face and participate in seminars featuring speakers on the latest trends and topics that are ultra important in our industry. I would encourage all members to attend Conclaves.

For me, Polygon is all about jewellers helping jewellers and gaining insights from some very wise individuals that collectively have weaved the fabric of the jewellry industry today."

1-800-221-4435 | info@polygon.net | www.polygon.net Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more!

For details, write #131 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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10/20/11 11:57:06 AM

designerprofile | clairevessot

S

omeone bent down one day and whispered in her ear, “Stay close to beauty.” Since that day, the Montreal native, Claire Vessot has been inspired by that idea throughout her work, designing fashion and fine jewellery. Today, Vessot is the sole designer for ELLE Jewelry Collections, a jewellery line distributed worldwide through Brands 88 Inc., an affiliate of PAJ Group, one of the world’s largest sterling silver suppliers since 1976.

In 1995, Vessot formed her own company, which provided a design service to numerous clients, including Montreal-based Bijoux Continental. PAJ Group acquired Bijoux in 1998, and this was how she first met and joined the company.

Passion for silver

Revealing a fierce passion for sterling silver, with 18 Industry Design Awards behind her, Vessot’s designs begin with layers of sketching and often take her all the way to clay molding, when developing a sculptural ELLE theme of bold dimensions.

BEAUTY is in the details

ELLE Jewelry’s designer, Claire Vessot, believes in finding something special in the smallest aspects of everyday life

BY BONNIE SIEGLER

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“Until recently, silver seemed to take a back seat to other precious metals,” explains Vessot on her metal choice. “I have always believed in sterling silver and saw it as a way to create pieces with fierce passion and expression, jewellery that can carry a look and has value to back it up. Its properties allow me to extend fine treatments such as back plates, hidden connections, softer looks or knife edges, all with a flawless finish and a rich luxurious feel,” she says. “I love the way it takes on the feel of the wearer. Fine sterling has a look of its own. It’s very personal, and silver is an experience.” Based on the top trends from fashion forecasters, Vessot creates her collections each season, keeping textures, colours and silhouettes as her inspiration.

Staying close to beauty is a philosophy Vessot has been faithful to. Yet, what defines beauty in jewellery? “It’s more of a state of mind, it’s the beauty of the process,” she carefully explains.

“The peace and happiness during the creative process, some great music playing while sketching, that fantastic feeling when I’m onto something new – all these things that I hope translate somehow into the finished piece.” How can she tell when she actually attained beauty?

“It’s something that creates a good feeling.”

www.canadianjeweller.com

10/20/11 10:20:53 AM

COVER THE PULSE OF TIME

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For details, write #132 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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10/20/11 12:00:06 PM

designerprofile | clairevessot From left to right: Silver rhodium “leopard relief ” corset cuff featured in the all new “ELLE by Vessot” Limited Edition series.

“Harmony” gentle colour palette statement earrings with cascades of tonal pink shell and rose quartz to complement the pinched lozenge-like links of glossy sterling silver.

“Reflections” earrings. Detailed ‘kaleidoscope’ motif designed for highest sterling silver drama.

Add a little splash

Even though designers can display a wide range of styles in their work, they usually have one they’re drawn to and that somehow defines them.

“My personal taste is ever-changing, yet I do like a little splash mixed into something very simple,” admits Vessot. “Confident, sleek styling would describe it – that’s an irresistible combination for me.”

Each piece of ELLE jewellery has a genuine signature ruby trademark, which poignantly symbolizes a woman’s inner strength and beauty – something the colour red has displayed for centuries. “The mysterious location of this ruby in square motif changes with every piece,” says Vessot. “We could relate the stone meaning gathered from many different cultures and throughout history to discover a multitude of interpretations. What is important, however, is that a vivacious ruby-red colour is associated with fire, passion and luck. These are empowering sentiments. The importance of the ruby is beyond the stone itself.” Other gems such as quartz, opaques and semi-precious stones are also used in Vessot’s pieces.

While the exact meaning of the designer’s strategically placed ruby is richly abundant and open for interpretation with the wearer, she is quite clear on her evolving jewellery designs over the years: “My ELLE designs have become less geometric, while maintaining ease, softness and displaying a little more playfulness.”

For her “Latitude” cuff, for instance, Vessot had an “open feel” in mind “to address the evidence of lace being present as indicated with seasonal

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fabrics. I wanted a non-traditional approach, lightweight yet not delicate, so I created a weave and band approach to lace.” Admittedly, this cuff is one of Vessot’s ELLE favourites.

Inspiring travels

Vessot has designed pieces for both fine and fashion jewellery and says the major differences between the two kinds are in the details: “Fine or hidden connections, weights, settings and the degree of refinement possible – it’s all about details, not to mention price and lifespan. The similarities are the statements or the feeling being expressed.” A constant theme though is where she draws her inspiration from. “Often with travel,” she reveals. “I find a global perspective on what is important, much like viewing something obvious through a mirror and seeing it differently, as if for the first time.”

Vessot also works closely with ELLE Paris, which offers an extensive forecast of Europe’s fashions. “The design process is intangible, yet rich and true inspiration is a feeling that comes with impetus, evolves, and I just know I’m onto something good,” she explains.

For the winter and spring seasons, the designer says she features “darks with pops of pure light, translated into a very special collection entitled ‘ELLE by Vessot Limited Edition series’.” Regardless of seasonal trends, she hopes ELLE customers take advantage of her designs to express their own individuality.

“This woman is someone who is aware of herself and what she represents – an independent, style-conscious and value-savvy woman.” She also has a talent for finding beauty in the smallest things, just like Vessot. [CJ]

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A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in this section A ofDCanadian V Jeweller E Rmagazine T Iplease S contact: I NLucyGHolden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com A D V E R T I S I

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 or advertise e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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Best Bargains

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Looking for Affordability and Elegance? Why not try the new “Jewels by Anita” collection from Best Bargains? Products from this new mid-range line have been featured in Jewellery Business and Canadian Jeweller magazines.

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Package 893: 14kt. Gold gemstone briolette earrings: a. Green amethyst and tourmaline (4mm), b. Amethyst earrings, c. Black spinel and garnet (5mm), d. Quartz and Citrine (4mm). a.

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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Refine-All Metals Ltd.

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A D V E R T I S I N G

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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Sam Salehi President

Dynamic Gems Group Inc Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery www.dynamicgems.com

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While You Wait-Immediate Settlements Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys Check Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices At: www.goldrefining.ca

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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| September/OctOber 2011 – buyerS’ Guide

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A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

FOR SALE

Jewellery store for sale, retiring after 35 years. Turnkey store, low overhead, no percentage rents, 950 square feet, 33 store shopping center with or without stock. Tsawwassen, BC, suburb of Vancouver. Tel.: 604-943-4941

8/26/11 8:43:55 AM

FOR SALE

Prime Jewellery location for sale in a major Ontario city outside Toronto.

Great traffic location, lease, fixtures and leaseholds are for sale. Owner is retiring. Please inquire by email to: jewellstore@gmail.com

HELP WANTED

Paris Jewellers is looking for highly motivated and professional individuals who love people and love jewellery to join our sales and management team. Competitive commission and bonus structure. We are hiring for all locations across Canada. Email your resume to hr@parisjewellerscanada. com or fax (780) 930-1429

AGENTS/REPS WANTED

Are you looking for complementary lines?

“Ice-Watch”, number one colour fashion watch in Europe and “Lotus” watches from Spain is looking for salesman in the Greater Toronto area, North-West Ontario area as well as the Maritimes. Please send your resume to Robert Forget at rforget@ ccapcable.com

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| November 2011

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088

GET FREE INFORMATION!

on any product advertised in this issue

sectionhead

SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

1. See product you want info on

BY FAX OR MAIL CONNECT WITH…

2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

page

24 Gold Group Sapir Stuller Stuller Lili Diamonds Sequel Canada Jewelers Mutual Imperial Gems and Jewels 1010 Watches Ready Mounts E.R.L. Diamonds Fantastic Fine Jewellery Rodania Canada Fantastic Fine Jewellery Lega Jewellery Jewelers Mutual The Bullion Mart TIG Group TIG Group Importex Rembrandt Charms Muehle-Glashuette Canada Mirage Creations Gee N’ Gee Importers GIA

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Pierre Laurent Time Pieces Jewelers Vigilance Canada PH Design Hong Kong Trade Mediagrif Rodania Canada Embix Watch Importing Company Noble Gift Packaging Wengers Altanus Watches Lili Jewelry Di Donna Elle Jewelry Collection Gold, 24/7 Ready Mounts Inc. GC XL-S Imperial Color Diamonds Importex Rembrandt Charms Stuller Polygon Virtual Inventory Elle Jewelry Mirage

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Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8 88

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Wenger02Aug11(9x10.875in).pdf

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For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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lastword

Starry Night

This breathtaking 18k white gold, limited edition, pink diamond ring from the Royal Asscher line Stars of Africa simply radiates with elegance and femininity.

The cascading 1.20 ct pink brilliants free-flow inside a liquid dome illuminating a starry night surrounding a 0.83 ct brilliants set pave. Only 55 rings have been created in this limited edition line as a tribute to the royal Dutch family. Royal Asscher has captured the eye-of-thebeholder with this timeless ring, priced at $25,000 USD.

BY Lorina Owen

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CJ N o v e m b e r 2 0 1 1 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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For details, write #153 on Free Info Page, page 88

Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

For details, write #154 on Free Info Page, page 88

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10/20/11 10:27:14 AM