Ever Magazine Spring 2012 by Rive Gauche Media

Ca na daâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s n u m b e r 1 J e welle ry Mag a z i n e T h e E x pe r i e nce of Pe r s onal T r a n s f or mat ion an d I de n t i t y

PA S T E L 2012

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$ 1 4 . 9 9 D i s p l ay u n t i l AU G UST 2 0 1 2

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JEWELLERY

416-367-3236

F O R R E TA I L L O C AT I O N S V I S I T B C O U T U R E . C A

FINE

15/11/11 10:45 AM

CMYK

888.ZEGHANI | 888.934.4264 | www.zeghani.com

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INTRODUCING CERENA™ FOR HER WHITE CERAMIC AND STAINLESS STEEL WITH DIAMOND MARKERS. 36MM CASE. MOVADO.COM

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ÂŠ 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.

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A M O D E R N C L A S S I C

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* * * * P U B L I S H E R ’ S L E T _T E10R

Symbolic characters are beautiful splashes of graphic art that create mood and sensation—even though it is up to each of us to interpret them the way we like. We take inspiration from these characters to build a visual narrative about colours and how they feel to us. Each colour and shape relates to the blossoms and creative magic we’re seeing so much and want to reflect—in jewellery and watches. It’s just like a droplet of orange in an ocean of blue turning into a mirage of green... Or like the transformation of your personality when your jewellery adds the final touch to your look. This summer, big pieces are very much on trend, so mix colours and shapes, and your pieces will communicate to the beholder who you are. Colours mean different things to different people. We mix them into our own unique designs that you can interpret in whatever way feels right for you.

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OL I V I E R F E L ICIO

Founder and Editor-in-Chief

CMYK

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CONTRIBUTORS

CELEBRITY SPARKLE Hollywood stars glam it up

ROUGH CUTS From the runway to your way, style yourself for summer

PROPOSALS Personal stories from couples who put a ring on it

BRIDE & PREJUDICE Jewellery bridges the gap between commitment and temptation

WATCH MECCA 2012 Timepieces have never looked so wild and so fine

COLOUR THERAPY A colour scheme of emotions radiates through menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern watches

EMBRASSE MOI Exquisite, indulgent summer jewellery

DESIGNER PROFILE Giorgio Galli creates colourful Versace watches

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CANADIAN DESIGNER PROFILE Shelly Purdy is altruistic by nature

CON TEN TS

18 20

U.S. Women’s Open® Champion

UnstoppabLE Paula Creamer and her Citizen Eco-Drive. Fueled by light. Any light. A watch that never needs a battery. Be Precise. Be Powerful. Be UNSTOPPABLE.

Firenza 24 Diamonds

Learn about Eco-Drive

citizenwatch.com CitizenEcoDrive

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CON TEN TS

MOVEMENT OF THE PEOPLE Understanding the heart of your watch

ICE ICE BABY Sweet watches for cool summers

TRAVEL Warsaw: City of treasures, artists and amber

WEDDING TOAST ETIQUETTE Anna Post explains the rules on toasting

100

JEWELLERY INSURANCE Make your wedding rings worry-free

104

APPRAISALS Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your bridal jewellery worth?

108

ALL FOR LOVE Guys: Get expert advice on buying jewellery for your girlfriend

110

DIAMOND DIRECTORY Cut, clarity, colour and carats clarified

114

ON THE SCENE Pinball Clemons, Dean Brody, and top models step into the limelight

118

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LAST WORD Astonishing rings pay tribute to the force of love

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J E W E L L E R Y: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F O R M AT I O N & I D E N T I T Y SPR I N G/SU M M ER 2012 FOU N D ER/ED ITO R-I N-CH I EF

A D V E R T I S I N G I N F O R M AT I O N

Olivier Felicio Lynne Shuttleworth

Olivier Felicio 416-203-7900 x6107 Olivier@evermagazine.ca

A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R

N AT I O N A L A C C O U N T S A N D

M ANAGI N G EDITO R

E. Zeynep Guler-Tuck EDITO RIAL

Irina Lytchak FA S H I O N

Kelechi Achonu

SALES

Paul Sych

Jeff Yamaguchi 416-203-7900 x6122 Jyamaguchi@promediacommunications.com

LEAD DESIGNER

C R E AT I V E B U S I N E S S

EDITO RIAL I NTERN

Laurie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Handley ART DI REC TO R

Gillian Sych DESIGNER

Scott Jordan ART INTERN

Stacey Rosenblum P R O D U C T I O N C O O R D I N AT O R

Erin Booth CO NTRI BUTO RS

Gregory Aron Barbara Kingstone Tyler Krowiorz Duncan Parker Bonnie Siegler PHOTOGR APH ER

Babar Khan HAIR & MAKEUP

Michael Bonneville Makiko Nohara Kayla Arkarakas MODELS

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GROUP SALES MANAGER

Shane Stefurak 416-203-7900 x6134 Shane@evermagazine.ca

Sandra Michie Camille Jessica Lewis

C O O R D I N AT O R

Erin Poredos 416-203-7900 x6128 Erin@evermagazine.ca A D M I N I S T R AT I O N

Melanie Seth, Controller & Operations Henry Fonseca, Finance Administrator SUBSCRIPTION EMAIL

Subscriptions@ evermagazine.ca Send your cover label and new address to: Ever Magazine 55 Bloor St. West P.O. Box 19501 Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3T9

ON THE COVER: JESSIC A IS WEARING 5 R I N G S F R O M N O VA D I A M O N D S : 1 .1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 . 8 9 C T W H I T E D I A M O N DS W I T H 15.44C T P I N K TOU RM ALI N E CENTRE STO N E, $ 1 2 , 7 9 0 , 2 .1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 .1 3 C T W H ITE D I A M O N DS W ITH CO LO U R S T O N E S , T O TA L I N G 1 0 . 0 9 C T, $ 7, 2 3 0 , 3 .1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 .1 0 C T W H I T E D I A M O N D S W I T H 3 7. 7 9 C T C O L O U R E D S T O N E S , $ 1 0 , 0 45 , 4 .1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 .87C T W H I T E D I A M O N DS W I T H 4 0 . 42 C T S Q U A R E A M E T H Y S T, $ 9 , 9 2 5 , 5 .1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 0 . 3 2 C T W H I T E DIAMONDS WITH BLUE SAPPHIRES A N D B L U E T O PA Z C E N T R E S T O N E , $ 5 ,1 2 0 . P L U S : V I N TA G E C U F F, P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T, R I TA T E S O L I N , B R A S S A N D V I N TA G E C U F F, $ 49 5 , R I TA TESOLIN, 18K WHITE GOLD BANGLE, 13.90C T WH ITE DIAMON DS WITH 58C T A M E T H Y S T S , B L U E T O PA Z , G R E E N Q U A R T Z A N D C I T R I N E , $ 5 8 , 2 0 0 , N O VA D I A M O N DS, FLO R A L D R ESS, $214, DELL BY BCBG MAXAZRIA

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CON TR IBU TORS

* * * * C O N T R I B U T O_R18S

M ICH A E L BON N E V I L L E

Celebrity hair and makeup artist Michael Bonneville trained in London at Vidal Sassoon. He’s worked at the Toronto International Film Festival on celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Vanessa Williams and Annie Lennox. He’s also worked with supermodels such as Claudia Schiffer, Shalom Harlow and Carolyn Murphy. His editorial and advertising clients include Holt Renfrew, Flare, Fashion and American Vogue. He styled the models for our colour therapy feature on page 66.

BABAR KHAN

Babar Khan is known for his atmospheric photographs of Europe, filled with cityscapes and mysterious women. He has recently photographed projects in Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Athens and Vienna. Khan was also followed by a camera crew on photo shoots and interviewed for a Fashion Television profile that aired across the country. He has earned awards from Communication Arts and the International Photography Awards, and continues to create new advertising campaigns and editorials. His photos are featured throughout Ever and on the cover.

D U N C A N PA R K E R

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Duncan Parker works for Dupuis Auctioneers, and is one of Canada’s leading gemologists. For the past 11 years, he’s also served as President of the Canadian Gemological Association of Canada. And he’s the President of Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. With these qualifications, he’s the best person to explain jewellery appraisals, on page 112.

G R E G O RY A R O N

Born in Johannesburg, South Africa, Gregory Aron moved to Canada in 1985 and grew up in Toronto. After attending university, he apprenticed in the diamond industry in Antwerp, Belgium. He’s now back in Toronto buying, selling and trading vintage timepieces and estate jewels with his father, Maurice. That’s why he really knows what he’s talking about in his watch movements article on page 90.

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S TA R S G L A M I T U P AT AWA R D S H OW S BY

BON N IE SIEGLER

AWA R D S E A S O N revealed some chic and elegant jewellery designs for presenters, winners and others attending award shows and parties to celebrate the best of the best. Neil Lane’s jewellery adorned some of the most beautiful singers of this century:

TAYLOR SWIFT wore Lane’s diamond Navette shaped ring set with 34 cushion cut diamonds weighing 3.95ct platinum top and 18k ring signed by the famed jeweller ($24,000), plus diamond and 18k yellow gold earrings set with two natural rough diamonds equalling 3.51ct, further accented with 48 diamonds ($9,500).

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LADY ANTEBELLUM’s singer Hillary Scott was a winner in her Sutra blackened gold, pink sapphire and pink quartz earrings with diamonds (price on request).

R&B performer RIHANNA wore a snake ring set with polished and faceted fancy coloured diamonds of 1.52ct, also set with 55 diamonds and signed by Neil Lane ($12,000), a snake ring set with polished and faceted fancy coloured diamonds weighing .41ct and signed by Neil Lane ($12,000), as well as a natural rough diamond and 18k yellow gold ring set with 12 natural rough diamonds equalling .52ct signed by Neil Lane ($1,875). The star also chose a pair of 18k yellow gold earrings set with 74 diamonds, equalling .62ct ($5,800) and a diamond and gold bracelet ($39,000), plus a diamond, 18k yellow gold bangle set with 243 round cut diamonds equaling 5.30ct, further accented with hand piercing and engraving.

The new Jewels by Anita Spring Collection is Here!

Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable. For more information and a price list, contact Anita at anita@bbjw.com or visit our blog at www.jewelsbyanita.posterous.com

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JULIANNE HOUGH was seen with boyfriend Ryan Seacrest, wearing Vanessa Leu’s black, gold, diamond and quartz Marquis drop earrings (price on request).

At Sony Music Group’s Grammy reception held at Cecconi’s in West Hollywood, CARRIE UNDERWOOD wore Sutra’s 18k white gold kit shaped Jali earrings with rough diamonds (price on request).

evermagazine.ca

SANAA LATHAN attended Clive Davis and The Recording Academy’s Pre-Grammy Gala and Salute to Industry Icons, wearing a pair of Amrapali goldand sterling silver smoky quartz earrings ($2,760).

Thompson Square, nominated for Best Country Duo/Group Performance, captivated audiences, and singer SHAWNA THOMPSON captivated with jewellery accessories as well, choosing an Isharya metal icon XL cuff ($356), a Carrera y Carrera gold paisley ring ($2,750) and a Diamond in the Rough champagne bubbles earrings with 34 rough diamonds totaling 5.31ct in 18k gold (price on request).

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5 1 . I N T R A - M AT I C S TA I N L E S S S T E E L WAT C H F E AT U R I N G A N A U T O M AT I C M O V E M E N T, S A P P H I R E C R Y S TA L A N D AVA I L A B L E W I T H A B L A C K V I N TA G E L E AT H E R O R S T E E L B A N D . ( H A M I LT O N , $ 8 45 -$ 9 45) 2. COT TO N AN D SI LK PL AI D TI E W ITH A S I G N AT U R E B R A N D L I N I N G . ( P E R R Y E L L I S , $ 5 5) 3. 14K ROSE GOLD CUFFLINKS F E AT U R I N G W H I T E A N D B L A C K D I A M O N D S W E I G H I N G 2 . 2 8 C T. ( M I R A G E C R E AT I O N S , $ 7,1 0 0) 4. CH E VRON MON E Y CLI P I N STERLI NG S I LV E R A N D B L A C K A L U M I N U M . ( D AV I D Y U R M A N , $ 49 5) 5 . M E S H C O L L E C T I O N WAT C H F E AT U R I N G A S T E E L M E S H B A N D , Q U A R T Z M O V E M E N T, A L L-S TA I N L E S S STEEL SLIM PROFILE CASE AND AVA I L A B L E I N M AT T E O R S H I N Y F I N I S H . ( T O Y WAT C H , $ 2 6 0) R U N WAY: S A LVAT O R E F E R R A G A M O , SPRING 2012

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1. FROM THE ALBION COLLEC TION, B L A C K O N Y X A N D S T E R L I N G S I LV E R C U F F L I N K S F E AT U R I N G D I A M O N D B E Z E L S W E I G H I N G 0 . 6 6 C T. ( D AV I D Y U R M A N , $ 1 , 8 0 0) 2. A CLASSIC WEDDING BAND F E AT U R I N G S AT I N F I N I S H I N G A N D C H A N N E L S E T D I A M O N D S . AVA I L A B L E I N PA L L A D I U M , 1 4 K A N D 1 8 K G O L D A N D P L AT I N U M . ( R I TA N I , $ 1 , 6 1 0 - $ 4 , 8 3 0) 3. 8MM WHITE GOLD WEDDING BAND F E AT U R I N G A B R U S H E D F I N I S H A N D D I A M O N D S W E I G H I N G 0 . 4 0 C T. AVA I L A B L E I N 1 0 K A N D 1 8 K W H I T E G O L D A N D P L AT I N U M . ( M A L O , $ 4 , 6 4 0 - $ 6 , 3 5 0) 4 . F R O M T H E M E S H WAT C H C O L L E C T I O N , T H I S R E T R O T I M E P I E C E F E AT U R E S A B L A C K S T E E L M E S H B A N D , A S TA I N L E S S S T E E L C A S E A N D I S AVA I L A B L E I N A M AT T E O R G L O S S Y F I N I S H . ( T O Y WAT C H , $ 2 6 0) 5. TH E JA Z ZM A STER AUTOCH RO N O F E AT U R E S A N E W LY D E V E L O P E D H 2 1 M O V E M E N T, S TA I N L E S S S T E E L C A S I N G AND 60 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE. ( H A M I LT O N , $ 1 , 6 8 6 ) R U N WAY: V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D , SPRING 2012

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1. CHAIN NECKL ACE IN 18K ROSE G O L D F E AT U R I N G A P E N D A N T W I T H 0.07C T D I A M O N DS . ( PA N D O R A , $ 8 8 5) 2 . ‘ M A D A M B U T T E R F LY ’ R I N G FROM TH E ‘DAI NTREE R AI N FOREST C O L L E C T I O N ’ F E AT U R I N G 1 8 K Y ELLOW GO LD A N D D I A M O N D W H ITE O PA L F L O W E R P E TA L S A N D A 2 . 3 3 C T M A N D A R I N G A R N E T. H A N D - C A R V E D AND HANDMADE. ( K AT H E R I N E J E T T E R , $ 2 8 , 4 4 0) 3. E A R C LI PS I N 18K Y ELLOW GO LD, BEZEL SET WITH CUSHION CUT PERI DOTS. ( F O R T U N E S F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E ON REQUEST) 4 . ‘ L A D Y H A M I LT O N ’ C O C K TA I L WAT C H I N Y E L L O W G O L D F E AT U R I N G S A P P H I R E C R Y S TA L A N D Q U A R T Z . AVA I L A B L E I N S Q U A R E A N D O VA L SHAPED CASES, WITH AND WITHOUT DIAMONDS. ( H A M I LT O N , $ 5 45) 3 . R O S S E T T E B A N G L E F E AT U R I N G PA C I F I C O PA L , V I O L E T C R Y S TA L , A N D A G O L D - P L AT E D L O B S T E R C L A S P. ( S WA R O V S K I , $ 2 1 0) R U N WAY: J O H N G A L L I A N O , SPRING 2012

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1 . P L AT I N U M N E C K L A C E F E AT U R I N G A MEDLEY OF EMERALDS, T S AV O R I T E G A R N E T A N D G R E E N TO U R M A LI N E; SE T W ITH Y ELLOW AND WHITE DIAMONDS. ( F O R T U N E S F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E ON REQUEST) 2 . ‘A M B R O S I A’ S T E R L I N G S I LV E R DANGLE POST EARRI NGS F E AT U R I N G M A R Q U I S S K Y B L U E T O PA Z A N D A F R I C A N A M E T H Y S T. ( E L L E J E W E L R Y, $ 1 8 9) 3 . A S T U N N I N G P L AT I N U M R I N G F E AT U R I N G A N A Q U A M A R I N E S T O N E W E I G H I N G 1 4 . 3 2 C T. ( F O R T U N E S F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E ON REQUEST) 4 . ‘ T H E ‘ R O N D I R O ’ F E AT U R I N G A W H ITE M OTH ER-O F-PE ARL DIAL, A B EZEL OF 35 DIAMON DS AN D A S W I S S Q U A R T Z M O V E M E N T. ( M O VA D O , $ 1 , 9 9 5) 5 . ‘ H YA C I N T H PA S T E L’ I S A R H O D I U M - P L AT E D C O C K TA I L R I N G F E AT U R I N G A L I G H T A Z O R E M O O N L I G H T C R Y S TA L A N D E M B E L L I S H E D I N A PA S T E L A S S O R T M E N T O F C R Y S TA L PO I NTIAGE®. ( S WA R O V S K I , $ 2 6 0) R U N WAY: D O L C E & G A B B A N A , SPRING 2012

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NADIA DOLCE NADIADOLCE.COM

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1 . ‘ W I L D B U T T E R F LY ’ N E C K L A C E I N S T E R L I N G S I LV E R A N D R H O D I U M P L AT E D , F E AT U R I N G A F I L I G R E E C U T B U T T E R F LY P E N D A N T. ( E L L E J E W E L R Y, $ 1 49) 2 . ‘ WA N D A’ S G A R D E N ’ R I N G I N O X I D I Z E D S I LV E R A N D S E T W I T H A D A Z Z L I N G , P U R P L E A M E T H Y S T. ( PA N D O R A , $ 1 3 0) 3 . FA N C Y, 1 8 K G O L D R I N G S E T W I T H A P I N K SA P P H I R E W E I G H I N G 1 .70 C T AND A BAND OF 1.0CT DIAMONDS. ( M I R A G E C R E AT I O N S , $ 7, 8 7 5) 4. AM ETHYST AN D CITRI N E B R ACELET W I T H A N E XQ U I S I T E , G E M E N C R U S T E D PAV É C L A S P. (FORTU N ES FI N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 5 . S I LV E R C U F F W I T H 1 8 K G O L D A N D M AT T E F I N I S H A C C E N T S . ( H E R A , $ 1 , 49 5) R U N WAY: N I N A R I C C I , S P R I N G 2 0 1 2

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1 . FLO R A L D I A M O N D EN GAG EM EN T R I N G F E AT U R I N G A S C A L L O P E D H A L O W I T H A R O U N D C U T C E N T R E S T O N E . AVA I L A B L E I N PA L L A D I U M , 1 4 K A N D 1 8 K G O L D A N D P L AT I N U M . ( R I TA N I , $ 4 , 3 45) 2. L AU REL AN D VI N E M OTI F N ECKL ACE SET W I T H N AT U R A L , FA N C Y- I N T E N S E , Y E L L O W DIAMON DS I N 18K WH ITE GOLD. (FORTU N ES F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 3 . 1 8 K G O L D W E D D I N G B A N D F E AT U R I N G A 5.85C T DIAMON D BAGU ET TE. ( M I R A G E C R E AT I O N S , $ 1 9 , 7 2 5) 4. C AM ÉLIA E ARRI NGS I N 18K WH ITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS. (C H A N E L , P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 5 . FA N C Y Y E L L O W A N D W H I T E D I A M O N D B R A C E L E T. ( M I N D H A M F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, PRICE ON REQUEST)

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R U N WAY: O S C A R D E L A R E N TA , SPRING 2012

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1. 14K WHITE GOLD BR ACELET F E AT U R I N G R O U N D C U T W H I T E D I A M O N D S W E I G H I N G 0 . 6 9 C T. ( Z E G H A N I J E W E L R Y, $ 2 , 7 0 0) 2 . 1 4 K W H I T E G O L D P E N D A N T F E AT U R I N G ROUND CUT WHITE DIAMONDS WEIGHING 0.21CT AND PRINCESS CUT WHITE D I A M O N D S W E I G H I N G 0 .1 8 C T. ( Z E G H A N I J E W E L R Y, $ 1 , 3 8 8) 3. MASTERWORK DIAMOND E N G A G E M E N T R I N G F E AT U R I N G A CENTRE STO N E SU RROU N DED BY A M I C R O PAV E C U S H I O N H A L O . AVA I L A B L E I N PA L L A D I U M , 1 4 K A N D 1 8 K G O L D A N D P L AT I N U M . ( R I TA N I , $ 4 , 2 8 0 -$ 5 , 8 6 5) 4 . P L AT I N U M C O C K TA I L R I N G F E AT U R I N G A CUSH ION CUT MOZ AM BIQU E PI N K T O U R M A L I N E W I T H P E A R -S H A P E D DIAMOND SHOULDERS. ( M I N D H A M F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, PRICE ON REQUEST) 5. DROP EARRINGS IN 14K WHITE GOLD F E AT U R I N G D I A M O N D - E N C R U S T E D P E N D A N T S W E I G H I N G 0 . 5 6 C T. ( Z E G H A N I J E W E L R Y, $ 1 , 6 0 0) R U N WAY: M A R C H E S A , S P R I N G 2 0 1 2

1. DIAMOND NECKL ACE FROM THE BR ANCHES COLLEC TION IN 18K WH ITE GOLD. (M I N DHAM FI N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 2. CAMÉLIA EARRINGS IN 18K WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS. (C H A N E L , P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 3. A ROMANTIQUE COLLEC TION E T E R N I T Y B A N D F E AT U R I N G M I C R O PAV E A N D B E Z E L S E T DIAMONDS IN A HAND-CARVED L E A F M O T I F. AVA I L A B L E I N PA L L A D I U M , 1 4 K A N D 1 8 K G O L D A N D P L AT I N U M . ( R I TA N I , $ 4 , 6 4 0 -$ 6 , 3 5 0) 4. ART DECO DIAMON D B R ACELET I N 18K WH ITE GOLD. (M I N DHAM FI N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E O N R E Q U E S T ) 5. DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING I N 1 8 K G O L D F E AT U R I N G A 1 . 3 9 C T P E A R -S H A P E D C R Y S TA L . ( M I N D H A M F I N E J E W E L L E R Y, P R I C E ON REQUEST)

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STOR I ES _38

* * * * PROP OSA L

PU TTING A RING ON IT A M A R R I AG E P R O P O S A L M A K E S F O R O N E O F T H E F ON DE S T M E MOR I E S – A NO S TA L GI A OF ROM A NC E , S U R P R I S E A N D U T T E R J OY Getting married is one of the most memorable events in a couple’s life together. It can also be a very chaotic occasion, when you consider the amount of time and effort that goes into planning the wedding. But what about the event that led to the wedding—that special moment when one person got the courage to ask the other if they would consider spending the rest of their lives together…

“My now husband, Jason, and I had moved to London, England in 2008 to be closer to my family. I remember the day we visited St. Paul’s Cathedral – a gorgeous building and my favourite place in the city. We climbed the many stairs to the top until we reached the whispering gallery, and since Jason had never been witness to the wonders of this structure, he asked how it worked. I walked a short distance away from him, leaned to the wall and whispered “Hello.” I waited a few seconds for him to realize that it was my voice and just as I was about to turn around and see his reaction I heard something being whispered back to me. It took me a second to clue in that it was Jason, responding along the gallery wall with a whisper of his own, “Will you marry me?” It was incredible and unbelievable at the same time!” NICOLE WALKER, Event Manager

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“As a child, I always dreamed about my wedding proposal, and on January 14, 2005 my dream came true! I remember my boyfriend and I had made plans to go out with a group of friends, and after a lovely dinner, our server came around with a tray of tiny boxes. She explained that the restaurant was celebrating its anniversary and all the guests received a box of Bacci chocolates (my absolute favourite) as a token of appreciation. But when I received my box, it held a piece of paper instead of a chocolate inside. I quickly skimmed over the note thinking that perhaps I had won something until the phrase, “What do you say?” caught my eye. It was then that I truly read the letter and as the tears filled my eyes I turned to find the man of my dreams down on his knee! Not only asking me to marry him but if he could be the one and only to give me “bacci’s” for the rest of my life. “Bacci” in Italian means kisses!” MARYANNA QUINTIERI LAMANNA, Teacher

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STOR I ES _40

* * * * PROP OSA L

“John and I had been together for five years and endured a tidal wave of “are you ever going to get married or what?” when he finally got down on one knee in our little apartment in Leeds, England. We celebrated with Thai, a bout of tonsillitis (the least romantic part of the proposal), a gorgeous tanzanite ring and then immigrated to Canada (not to escape family interfering in the wedding, honest).” CHARLOTTE GONZALEZ, Freelance Writer

“My fiancé Harrison and I have been dating for about eight years; however, we met when we were both six years old. We grew up together but began dating only when I moved away (figures!) to go to university and have been together ever since. On our eight-year anniversary, my fiancé surprised me with a beautiful horse-drawn carriage waiting outside of my house. It took us to a spot where he first asked me out. He got down on his knee in the carriage and asked… What he said at that moment is still a big blur for me; I was just in shock and weeping like a baby!” AILEEN BARAN, Teacher

“Jeff and I had been dating for five and a half years, and he proposed to me after brunch on a snow-swept Saturday on December 21, 2008. I will always remember the fun of that day everything seemed so magical. It was as though life had been forced to pause and the outrageous amount of snow had given Christmas-crazed shoppers license to relax and play. We reached our car after helping yet another driver out of a snow jam, and Jeff turned on the engine to warm us up. He reached into his jacket and brought out a box. “Gracie, I love you so much. Will you be my wife?” he asked and opened the box. I was stunned as I looked at the ring: “Are you sure?” I asked. “Yes, I’m very sure,” he replied. “Yes, of course I will marry you!” I finally said. We both had tears in our eyes. The ring was so beautiful; I’ve never seen its equal. We got married on July 31, 2011.”

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GRACE BEZAIRE, Account Director

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BR IDE & PR EJ U DICE

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PHOTOGR APHY BY B A B A R K H A N FROM “CHOSEN” AGENCY TE XT BY E . Z . G U L E R-T U C K CRE ATIVE DI REC TOR O L I V I E R

F E L ICIO

E A R R I N G S , S I LV E R W I T H CUBIC ZIRCONIUM, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $ 3 6 0 . PEARL NECKL ACE, SIAM GALLERY CO., $1,250. B R A C E L E T, P I N K Q U A R T Z , G R A Z Y N A , $ 42 0 . P E A R L R I N G , S I LV E R WITH CUBIC ZIRCONIUM, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $ 1 9 5 . RI N G , PU RPLE STO N E W ITH GOLD SETTING DIAMOND SURROUND, Z EGH A N I , $2,375. C R Y S TA L R I N G , R I TA T E S O L I N , $ 3 7 5 . F R E S H WAT E R P E A R L A N D C R Y S TA L B R A C E L E T, R I TA T E S O L I N , $ 2 9 5 . DRESS, STYLE-PEONY BY M.L, STRAPLESS DRAPED BODICE HAND BUSTLED TRU M PET GOW N , $5,280.

Extending beyond the final “I do,” once sweethearts, you are now bound for life. A crystal clear day awaits you behind closed doors. Expose each mystery if you dare, one longing touch at a time.

& PR E J U DICE _44

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Eternity is suspended in an everlasting revolution. Spinning, careening, crashing down into pure bliss. Reality sets in with every statement of devotion. This is your shining moment, there is no turning back.

O N E - O F - A - K I N D C R Y S TA L E A R R I N G S , R I TA T E S O L I N , P R I C E AVA I L A B L E O N R E Q U E S T. N E C K L A C E , C R Y S TA L A N D P E A R L COLL AR, C AROLE TA N E N B A U M V I N TA G E BRI DAL COLLEC TION, $ 2 , 5 0 0 . R I N G , S I LV E R W I T H CUBIC ZIRCONIUM, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $ 1 9 5 . RING, WHITE AND BROWN CUBIC ZIRCONIUM, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $ 3 5 0 . BANGLE, BRASS AND CUBIC Z I R C O N I U M , FA S H I O N B Y SA KO, $1 ,060. B A N G L E , S I LV E R W I T H C U B I C Z I R C O N I U M , FA S H I O N B Y SA KO, $855. O N E- O F-AK I N D A U S T R I A N C R Y S TA L C U F F, R I TA T E S O L I N , $1,250. DRESS, STR APLESS P L E AT E D S AT I N - FA C E D O RGA N Z A , A-LI N E GOW N , M ARCH ESA , $6,995. SHO ES, M A N O LO B L A H N I K , $995.

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E A R R I N G S , C R Y S TA L , $125. N ECKL ACE, C A S A N O VA N E C K L A C E , HAND-CUT VENETIAN M I R R O R , S T E FA N O P O LE T TI , $795. R I N G , 14K SQUARE-CUT DIAMOND WITH CASCADING DIAMOND CIRCLES, ZEGHANI, $2,000. RING, 14K FLOW ER SE T TI N G WITH DIAMOND, ZEGHANI, $2,000. RING, CIRCLECUT WITH DIAMOND W E AV E , Z E G H A N I , $ 1 , 7 0 0 . B A N G L E , FA S H I O N B Y SA KO, B R A SS A N D C U B I C ZIRCON IUM, $1,060. BANGLE, SHERMAN V I N TA G E B A N G L E , $ 1 , 2 0 0 . C R Y S TA L B A N G L E , R I TA T E S O L I N , $ 1 45 . B R A C E L E T, V I N TA G E A U S T R I A N C R Y S TA L S , $115. DRESS, WHY TE COUTU RE, $3,800. SH O ES, M A N O LO B L A H N I K , $995. F L O W E R S , T E AT R O VERDE, TO RO NTO.

Draped across every thought, each flowing layer plunges into infinity. Passion strikes deep when eyes wander. In the midnight hour, entertain the bright and shiny hints of another fancy-free life.

E A R R I N G S , R O B E R TA CHIARELLA CH A N D ELI ER , $650. V I N TA G E C R Y S TA L N E C K L A C E , R I TA TESO LI N , $785. C R Y S TA L R I N G , R I TA TESO LI N , $375. B R A C E L E T, 1 9 2 0 D E C O , C A R O L E TA N E N B A U M V I N TA G E B R I D A L COLLEC TION , $3,500. B A N G L E , S I LV E R W I T H CUBIC ZIRCONIUM S T O N E S , FA S H I O N BY SA KO, $840. B R A C E L E T, S I LV E R R O S E - P L AT E D W I T H CUBIC ZIRCONIUM, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $595. R I N G , OX I D I Z E D S I LV E R , FA S H I O N B Y SA KO, $480. R I N G , SILK, SILICONE AND S WA R O V S K I C R Y S TA L S , T Z U R I G U E TA , $ 1 9 0 . DRESS, STYLE-EDEN, BEADED GOWN WITH CAP SLEEVE BY J . PA C K H A M , $ 4 , 45 0 .

The spoils of lawful matrimony play centre stage when lust dwindles and indecision lingers. Sparkling gems cascade to the ground like tear drops, weakening the ties of fidelity, flooding your darkest hours.

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E A R R I N G S , S I LV E R WITH CUBIC ZI RCO N I U M STO N ES, FA S H I O N B Y S A K O , $500. GL A SS P E A R L A N D C R Y S TA L N E C K L A C E , R I TA TESO LI N , $785. C R Y S TA L B R O O C H , R I TA T E S O L I N , $ 1 2 5 . B LO USE, W H Y TE COUTURE, $800. S K I R T, W H Y T E CO UTU R E, $1 ,400.

TEAM CREDITS: FA S H I O N : K E L E C H I A C H O N U FA S H I O N A S S I S TA N T: J A C K I E W H Y T E P H O T O G R A P H E R ’ S A S S I S TA N T: J A K U B M U L I K H A I R A N D M A K E- U P : M A K I KO N O H A R A MANICURE: ANNIE WU MODEL: CAMILLE C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R : O L I V I E R F E L I C I O

Confronted by the virtues of wedlock, reality is reflected in the present tense. “Forever” must prevail – keep your eye on the prize. Overlook temptation and let the memory of your love overrun your mind.

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* * * * WA T C H

E XC E P T I O N A L A R T I S T R Y

T H I S I S W H E R E I T A L L H A P P E N S â&#x20AC;&#x201D;T H E S T A N D O U T T I M E PI ECE S T H AT A PPE A R I N STOR E S AS A F E A S T F OR YOU R S E NS E S A R E F I R S T S HOWCA S E D A T T H I S WA T C H I N D U S T R Y M E G A- E V E N T

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Held in Basel, Switzerland every year, BaselWorld is the most important insider event of the international jewellery and watch industry. This year the artisans of BaselWorld 2012 managed to pull out all the stops by presenting the latest technology and most magnificent innovation in watchmaking from around the globe.

The Witness One Tourbillon Skeleton is a sight of wonder for the simple fact that it’s missing a dial, thus revealing the beautiful inner mechanics and movement of this radical timepiece. The finely sandblasted surfaces, bevelled and diamond-polished hands and black gold-treated bridges are exactly the kind of finishes that forge the character of MRC timepieces. Finally, the Tourbillon placed at 6:00 and marking off the seconds dominates the front, while the three-arm “octopus spring” operating the pull-out piece, click and lever governs the movement visible through the caseback. (price on request)

R O M A I N J E R O M E – B AC K T O T H E F U T U R E

OMEGA’s Spacemaster Z-33 is inspired by the iconic “Pilot Line” case shape and equipped with a brand new multifunction quartz movement. The calibre 5666 has been designed with modern pilots in mind, and artfully combines its predecessor’s legendary design with innovation. The Spacemaster Z-33’s case shape cannot be mistaken for that of any other timepiece, and in the tradition of OMEGA’s great pilots’ watches, it separates its day-to-day timekeeping from its professional functions ergonomically, using state-of-theart technology. The wearer of this particular timepiece is treated to self-programmable professional pilot functions that log up to 10 flights and visualise the logs with date-hour indications. $5,900

O M E G A – S PAC E M A S T E R Z -3 3

M A N U FAC T U R E R O D O L P H E CAT T I N – W I T N E S S ON E

Romain Jerome has broken the barrier between the video game universe and the fine art of watchmaking by teaming up with TAITO to create the limited edition “Space Invaders” series—a tribute to late-20th century pop culture. The Moon Invader 40 is equally as impressive as the latest addition to a line inspired by the Apollo 11. And finally, the Steampunk Chrono is a super retro-futuristic timepiece that honours the 100th anniversary of the Titanic by embodying the essence of the industrial revolution. $9,859 - $29,685

M E C C A 2 01 2 _ 52

A R T YA – S O N O F A G U N

* * * * WA T C H evermagazine.ca

ArtyA’s newest creation—Son of a Gun by Yvan Arpa—is a delight to any high-end collector or even a gun aficianado, for its dedication to craftsmanship and the kind of attention to detail that’s paid to a high-end firearm. This exceptional timepiece was initially ordered by a collector in order to marry the astonishing worlds of Swiss matchmaking and firearms. As the centrepiece feature of the watch, the dial contains six 6mm Flobert bullets, mimicking the barrel of an actual revolver. “Bite the Bullet: Guns don’t always kill people, time always does.” $14,000

One heart Three legends end

N AV I T I M E R

CHRONOMAT

TRANS OCE AN

With its Manufacture Caliber 01, Breitling has created the most reliable, accurate and top-performance of all selfwinding chronograph movements â&#x20AC;&#x201C; entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometercertified by the COSC. A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs.

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T E C H N O M A R I N E – T R E A S U R E AQ UA D I A M O N D

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No other name would be more fitting for this extravagant and alluring 18k pink gold timepiece than “treasure.” To celebrate 15 years of unconventional luxury, TechnoMarine takes us back to its iconoclastic marine roots in St. Tropez with the astonishing Treasure AquaDiamond. It features a dial engraved with a treasure map and studded with a colourful array of pink and blue sapphires, purple amethysts, green tsavorite, golden spessartite, diamonds and a ruby to mark the hidden treasure. US$38,000

H U B L O T – T U T T I F RU T T I T O U R B I L L O N

G AG A M I L A N O

Expanding on the concept of highly crafted and well-designed watch straps, Gaga Milano presents a bright, bold and colourful collection, aimed at blending the essence of retro with modern fashion. The newly developed Manual Wind 48mm, Chrono 48mm Quartz, Diving 48mm Automatic, Manual 40mm Diamond Quartz and the Napoleone Lady Quartz are all limited edition timepieces featuring carbon fibre, Kevlar and diamonds set in playfully shaped dials, to make the ultimate statement of creativity. (price on request).

Where does such power of seduction come from? Often considered the reigning complication in the world of Haute Horlogerie, the tourbillon movement is fascinating, captivating and enchanting—even just to see this tiny heart beating wildly. It’s a technical feat that has long been a closely guarded secret, usually seen in men’s watches, and nowadays still mainly aimed at wealthy, demanding and experienced connoisseurs and collectors. Hublot has made the Tutti Fruitt colourful, light, fun, happy… and feminine! And it’s the first time Hublot has offered a tourbillon watch for ladies. The Tutti Frutti Tourbillon, created in-house, is fitted with a movement comprising 153 components and a flying tourbillon visible on the dial side. US$149,000

M E C C A 2 01 2 _56

BR E I T L I NG â&#x20AC;&#x201C; T R A NSO C E A N C H RONOGR A PH U N I T I M E

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The innovative Transocean Chronograph Unitime model is highlighted with a system based on a patented mechanism that enables its user, when changing time zones, to adjust all the indications with a simple turn of the crown. The Transocean also boasts a calendar, a world time indication, a self-winding movement with 56 jewels and a steel or 18k red gold case. When it comes to the bracelet, you can choose from the options of steel, mesh, barenia leather or crocodile. $11,200

H HU UGBO L OBTO – S ST – UT BT L IAC F RU K T T I TOU R BI L LON

A R N O L D & S O N – H O R N E T WO R L D T I M E R S K E L E T O N

The Hornet World Timer Skeleton is a masterful blend of aesthetics and functionality. With six hands to give frequent travellers a wealth of practical information, this watch is a masterpiece of ingenuity. By removing much of the dial and skeletonizing many of the parts, its designers have blended function and form to create a watch whose complex mechanism is also its central design feature. The Hornet World Timer Skeleton is powered by the Arnold & Son A1766 calibre, and is housed in a stainless steel case with a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap. If you get your hands on one of these beauties, you’re lucky; only 50 limited edition watches were ever made. US$27,255

BOSS Black watches capture the “aviator” spirit through models reflecting a blend of nostalgic elegance and contemporary functionality. The latest addition to this range of aviation-inspired models is a watch that, in addition to the conventional central hour, minute and seconds hands, features a pointer-type display at 3:00 indicating the number of the current day of the month. The BOSS Black quartz-driven chronograph models provide readings accurate to within 1/10th of a second. All models are available in steel or rose-gold plated versions framing black, silver-toned or chestnut-brown dials and fitted with multi-link stainless steel bracelets or overstitched calfskin straps. Up, up and away with BOSS Black pilot’s timepieces. $250 - $475

M E C C A 2 01 2 _58

CHANEL – J12

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Chanel’s J12 is a luxurious tribute to the values handed down by Gabrielle Chanel. Available in a stunning assortment of colours and styles, the J12 is a reflection of Chanel’s class, audacity, innovation, purity and elegance. The J12 GMT White Ceramic, one of the collection’s highlights, features a self-winding mechanical movement and rhodium-plated numerals and hands. The J12 White Diamond-Set Slim Bezel is embellished with 54 dazzling diamonds weighing 1.4ct, while the J12 Chromatic Powder-Pink Dial model features titanium ceramic with rigidity comparable to that of a sapphire. The showstopper is the J12 Chromatic Baguette-Cut Cognac Sapphire watch, accentuated by an 18k white gold bezel, 36 baguette-cut sapphires and a silver-plated dial set with 12 diamond indicators. $5,250 - $46,800

T W STEEL - CA N TEEN

The latest Canteen watches take existing timepieces and evolve their look to continue to be “Big in Oversized Watches.” Building on the continued popularity of the TW10 Canteen model, the three new models, TW35, TW36 and TW37—available in 45mm only—inject a little more flare into the original design, while keeping its elegant appeal. The stand-out feature on the Canteen watches is the use of 56 Swarovski stones set on each bezel. White stones adorn the TW35, while TW36 and TW37 use pink and black Swarovski stones, respectively. $595 - $950

OM E GA – C ONS T E L L AT ION

One of the brightest new stars in OMEGA’s Constellation family is the Co-Axial 27mm in 18k red gold. It is not only uncompromisingly elegant but equipped with the brand’s proprietary Co-Axial calibre 8521, from OMEGA’s family of mechanical movements, widely considered to be among the world’s finest. The luxurious timepiece’s brushed case with polished claws is crafted from 18k red gold. The matching bracelet has brushed links and polished bars set with 144 full-cut diamonds totalling 0.54ct. The bezel is paved with 32 full-cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.50ct. The screw-in caseback features a sapphire crystal that reveals the perfection of the Co-Axial movement inside. The OMEGA Constellation Co-Axial 27 mm was designed for the woman who cares as much about the mechanical movement inside the case as she does about the breathtaking beauty of this watch. $25,200

38 $8

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38-014-101 $80

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U LY S S E N A R D I N M A R I N E C H R O N O B L U E /G O L D , $29,500

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Colour is your tribute to life. Evidence that, through thick and thin, you have come out on top, radiating strength of character and ferocious confidence. You are the palette of proof–what you are, who you are and where you have been rings through in each shade, tint and pigment. Your colour is contagious. PHOTOGR APHY BY

TE XT BY

E . Z . G U L E R-T U C K

B A B A R K H A N FROM “CHOSEN” AGENCY CRE ATIVE DI REC TOR O L I V I E R F E L I C I O

A ROUSE D

Seize the lustful moment when your hunger rages and desire errupts from within. You have to want it with your whole being and let it surge through your veins. The moment you reach that final climax, all the worldly pleasures are yours for the taking.

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PROU D

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With bold conviction, ignite your senses with the wild fires that lead you to the top. In the face of fear and uncertainty, the triumphs in your glory days will reign. Flaunt that face, your power and the searing taste of victory.

U LY S S E N A R D I N B L AC K S E A , $9,900

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BENTLEY GMT BRITISH G R EEN , $10,480

A M BI T IOUS

Chart your course, visualize success while you sink your teeth into each step of that ladder you climb. Cast aside the weak links and competition with vicious arrogance and fury. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a long time coming and there is no denying youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

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V E R SAT I L E

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In the infancy of your path, each unique spark has laid the foundation for what lies ahead. Sift through your vast colour spectrum and soar beyond the obstacle-bound track. Change defines you; your evolution is your strongest asset, defy the odds.

PO L ANTI TO RQU E, $1,995

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Versace One Cruise Co l l e c t i o n B l u e Dial Chronograph, $4,500

DIGN I F I E D

Stick to your gut. Recall the petty details that crumbled beneath your feet as you rose above. Untarnished are the rewards of every moment you persevered. You are the prize, you had the faith to succeed.

Team credits: D i g i ta l R e t o u c h i n g , D a n E s s e g e r n P h o t o g r a p h e r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s a s s i s ta n t, J a k u b M u l i k H a i r & m a k e u p, M i c h a e l B o n n e v i l l e H a i r & m a k e u p a s s i s ta n t, Va l e r i e H a r d e n M a n i c u r e , S a n d r a Ya n g Mod e l s , S a n d r a a n d M i c h i e

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* * * * BR I DE & PR E J U DICE _44

Your choice of jewellery for the summer season is like a trousseau for your jewellery box. It should have a range that promises “affordable luxury,” and is at the same time criminally desirable, extravagant, indulgent and exquisite. PHOTOGR APHY BY

BABAR KHAN

& PR E J U DICE _48

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P R E V I O U S PA G E S : E A R R I N G S , S I LV E R & 1 8 K Y E L L O W G O L D A C C E N T, $ 9 9 5 , H E R A , C H A I N T O P, $ 2 2 6 , B C B G M A X A Z R I A , N E C K L A C E S , S I LV E R C H A I N W ITH M I DN IGHT FI N ISH , $295, S I LV E R C H A I N W I T H 1 8 K Y E L L O W GOLD AND MIDNIGHT FINISH A C C E N T, $ 6 9 5 , S I LV E R L E A F O R B NECKL ACE, MIDNIGHT FINISH A N D 18K Y ELLOW GO LD, $1 ,095, ALL BY HER A , NECKL ACE, WHITE R E S I N , $ 3 9 , D E M A B I Z , C U F F, A C R Y L I C A N D S TA I N L E S S S T E E L , $ 2 7 9 , U L A Z U K O W S K A , C U F F, O N E- O F-A-K I N D, G EN U I N E P E A R L A N D R H I N E S T O N E , $ 4 6 5 , R I TA T E S O L I N , R I N G S , (0 1 0 5 1 2 1 0 7 0 2 -7 ) , $ 1 9 5 , A N D (0 1 0 3 1 1 1 0 1 3 0 -7 ) , $ 2 7 5 , ALL BY B ELLE ETO I LE, RI N GS, E V I L E Y E R I N G , S I LV E R W I T H MIDNIGHT AND MYSTIC FINISH, $ 49 5 , S I LV E R W I T H 1 8 K Y E L L O W GOLD AND MIDNIGHT FINISH, $ 6 9 5 , S I LV E R W I T H M I D N I G H T FINISH, $625, ALL BY HER A , S I LV E R D R E S S W O R N A S S K I R T, $ 5 6 5 , M A X M A R A , AVA I L A B L E AT FA S H I O N A B LY Y O U R S T H I S PA G E : EARRINGS, GENUINE COR AL AND C R Y S TA L , $ 2 2 5 , R I TA T E S O L I N , N E C K L A C E , D E V I L’ S T O W E R O R AN GE, $395, A SSAD M OU NSER , B R A T O P, $ 9 5 , V P L , AVA I L A B L E AT R A C B O U T I Q U E , S K U L L R I N G , $200, ALEX ANDER MCQUEEN, R I N G S , S I LV E R & 1 8 K Y E L L O W GOLD WITH MIDNIGHT FINISH, $ 9 5 0 , S I LV E R & 1 8 K Y E L L O W GOLD WITH MYSTIC FI N ISH , $850, S I LV E R & 1 8 K Y E L L O W G O L D WITH MYSTIC FI N ISH , $850, U N IT Y CROSS & GEMSTO N E RI N G , S I LV E R W I T H 1 8 K Y E L L O W G O L D A C C E N T, $ 9 9 5 , A L L B Y H E R A , C U F F B A N G L E S , S I LV E R W I T H 1 8 K Y ELLOW GO LD A N D M I D N I G HT F I N I S H A C C E N T, $ 1 ,1 9 5 , S I LV E R WITH MYSTIC FINISH ACCENTS, $ 8 2 5 , S I LV E R W I T H 1 8 K Y E L L O W GOLD AND MYSTIC FINISH, $ 1 , 49 5 , A L L B Y H E R A , C U F F, G O L D G E O M E T R I C , $ 245 , R I TA T E S O L I N , S K I R T, $ 6 9 5 , M A R N I , AVA I L A B L E AT FA S H I O N A B LY Y O U R S , S H O E S , $ 1 , 0 9 5 , S E R G I O R O S S I , AVA I L A B L E AT D AV I D S S H O E S T O R O N T O

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O P P O S I T E PA G E : PI N K B LO USE, $795, AQ U I L A N O R I M O N D I , AVA I L A B L E AT G E O R G E C , C U F F, G E N U I N E B R A N C H C O R A L A N D R H I N E S T O N E , $ 3 8 5 , R I TA T E S O L I N , C U F F, G E N U I N E C O R A L A N D M E TA L , $ 1 6 5 , R I TA T E S O L I N , RING, PYRITE QUARTZ DENDRITE, ROSE GOLD FILLED, $250, C L A U D E A B I T TA N , R I N G , P Y R I T E QUARTZ DENDRITE, ROSE GOLD F I L L E D , $ 8 5 0 , C L A U D E A B I T TA N , RING, PYRITE QUARTZ DENDRITE, ROSE GOLD FILLED, $1,200, C L A U D E A B I T TA N , R I N G , R U B Y R I N G W ITH GO LD, $550, C L AU D E A B I T TA N , R I N G , Y E L L O W G O L D , $250, LISA CORBO, RING, ROSE GOLD, $250, LISA CORBO, B R A C E L E T, G O L D - P L AT E D , $ 3 9 5 , N O R I TA M Y, R I N G , T W I S T E D W I R E FLOW ER , $210, ST Y LIST’S O W N , C U F F, A M A Z O N I T E , $ 45 0 , MANIA MANIA , EARRINGS, $260, B ELLE ETO I LE, N ECKL ACE, GO LD, D O U B L E -S T R A N D E D W I T H K N O T T E D C E N T R E A N D M U LT I C O L O U R E D S T R A N D , $ 1 9 5 , R I TA TESOLIN, NECKL ACE, ROSE GOLD, CHAI N LI N K , $395, LISA CO RBO, N E C K L A C E , L O N G , M U LT I - C H A I N , $795, LISA CO R BO, PI N K B LO USE, $795, AQ U I L A N O R I M O N D I

FLO R A L D R ESS, $214, D ELL BY BCBG MA X A ZRIA , NECKL ACE, O N E- O F-A-K I N D, AC RY L I C A N D G L A S S C H A R M S , $ 3 9 5 , R I TA TESO LI N , R I N G , 18K Y ELLOW GOLD, 0.09CT OF WHITE DIAMONDS, WITH CITRINE C E N T R E S T O N E , $ 4 , 2 9 5 , N O VA DIAMONDS, RING, 18K WHITE GOLD, 1.89C T WHITE DIAMONDS W IT H 15.44C T P I N K TO U R M A L I N E C EN TR E STO N E, $12, 790, N O VA D I A M O N D S , R I N G , 1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 .1 3 C T O F W H I T E D I A M O N DS W ITH CO LO U R S T O N E S , T O TA L I N G 1 0 . 0 9 C T, $ 7, 2 3 0 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , R I N G , 1 8 K W H I T E G O L D , 1 .1 0 C T OF WHITE DIAMONDS WITH 3 7. 7 9 C T O F C O L O U R S T O N E S , $ 1 0 , 0 45 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , R I N G , 18K W H I T E GO L D, 1 .87C T OF WHITE DIAMONDS WITH 4 0 . 42 C T S Q U A R E A M E T H Y S T, $ 9 , 9 2 5 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , RING, 18K WHITE GOLD, 1.84CT OF WHITE DIAMONDS, WITH AM ETHYST CENTRE STO N E, $ 8 , 76 5 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , RI NG, 18K WH ITE GOLD, 0.32C T OF WHITE DIAMONDS WITH BLUE SAPPHIRES AND BLUE T O PA Z C E N T R E S T O N E , $ 5 ,1 2 0 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , C U F F, L A R G E V I N TA G E P I E C E , P R I C E AVA I L A B L E O N R E Q U E S T, R I TA T E S O L I N , C U F F, B R A S S A N D V I N TA G E P I E C E , $ 49 5 , R I TA TESOLIN, BANGLE, 18K WHITE GOLD, 13.90C T WH ITE DIAMON DS, 5 8 C T A M E T H Y S T S , B L U E T O PA Z , GREEN QUARTZ AND CITRINE, $ 5 8 , 2 0 0 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , NECKL ACE, ACRYLIC AND GL ASS W I T H C H A R M S , $ 2 6 5 , R I TA TESOLIN

C U F F, $ 3 7 5 , J E S S I C A K A G A N CUSHMAN, EARRINGS, DIAMOND CHANDELIER, $ 5 3 ,1 2 5 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , R I N G , A G AT E , $ 2 3 0 , HEMMA DESIGN A PORTER, R I N G , M A M M O T H I V O R Y, $ 3 5 0 , N I C O L E T TA C E I , RING, BL ACK AND WHITE ( L F 8 -1 8 5 2 ) , $ 1 4 , 3 7 5 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , R I N G , D I A M O N D , $ 2 5 , 2 3 0 , N O VA DIAMONDS, RING, BL ACK A N D W H I T E D I A M O N D B O W, $ 1 6 , 7 1 0 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , B R A C E L E T, C H A I N , $ 42 5 , LISA CORBO, N ECKL ACE, 4 R O W, $ 49 5 , L I S A C O R B O , B R A C E L E T, B L A C K AND DIAMOND CHAIN, $ 2 7, 0 7 0 , N O VA D I A M O N D S , B R A C E L E T, B L A C K A N D D I A M O N D , $ 1 5 , 745 , N O VA DIAMONDS, RING, BRASS CO LO U R ED W ITH B L AC K J E W EL, $275, LISA CO R BO, D R E S S , $ 1 , 49 5 , G I L E S , AVA I L A B L E AT G E O R G E C .

TEAM CREDITS: FA S H I O N , K E L E C H I A C H O N U A S S I S TA N T, A N A S TA Z Y D I A N G O P H O T O G R A P H Y A S S I S TA N T S , D O R O TA PA N K O W S K A A N D M A R Y TAY L O R H A I R A N D M A K E U P, K AY L A A R K A R A K A S MODEL, JESSICA LEWIS

PROF I L E _78

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W H AT MAKES IGN E R V E R S A C EDG IEOSRG IO GA L L I EALS WA T C H E SRHEI SV PA SSION T I C K ?F O R G L A M O RO U S , C OLOU R F U L T I M E PI ECE S

BON N IE SIEGLER

L E AV E

I T T O V E R S AC E to make sure that even your wrist dazzles. And leave it to Italian-born Giorgio Galli to ensure the brand’s glamorous and sophisticated styles are still coveted by celebrities and worn at fashion shows all over the world. From his headquarters in Milan, Galli works closely with Donatella Versace, the company’s Vice President, chief designer and fashion creator. “Donatella is very influential,” says Galli about her impact on the brand. “All the inspiration comes from her in terms of shapes, material, colour…of course, we have to translate what she has in mind into a watch, so that’s our main goal.”

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E X PLOSIONS OF COLOU R

“ T H E Y I M M E DI AT E LY T E L L T H E S T ORY; T H E R E A R E S O M A N Y E L E M E N T S T H AT M A K E U P T H E V E R S AC E WOR L D. I T ’ S A L S O I M P OR TA N T T O H AV E A N E Y E F OR DE TA I L I N A V E RY P R E C I S E A N D S OP H I S T IC AT E D WAY.”

Looking ahead for this year, Galli forecasts a strong influence of colour. “Both in Versace fashion and watches, we have colours as a strong element in the design. The main point is really bright, primary sourced colours on everything from colour dials, colour straps…and we’ve been expanding the colour line. So we have yellow, fuchsia-toned pink, red – which is a very strong colour this year – light blue and, of course, white, which is still a very popular colour, especially in watches. Really, it’s almost every primary colour.” Versace watches are popular, with everyone from Angelina Jolie to Jessica Alba being seen at red carpet events wearing a Versace creation. “I know Donatella spends a lot of time with celebrities, and a lot of them are her friends, so I’ve seen celebrities wearing Versace watches, too,” Galli remarks. A graduate of the renowned Art Institute of Florence, the 49-yearold Galli lives in Italy with his wife and two children. He continues to design Versace watches and reign over the Timex Group, which took over licensing for Versace seven years ago.

N U M B E R O N E PA S S I O N “I’ve been with Timex as a consultant for 15 years,” says Galli from his offices at the Giorgio Galli Design Lab. Watches, however, have been his number one passion for decades, and over the past 20 years, he has developed unique expertise with many bestsellers for some of the biggest watch brands in the industry, such as Movado, Seiko, Citizen and Nautica. Galli admits that working up the timepiece ladder was a long process. “When I was 19, I did a project for LucasFilm in San Francisco, then was with Invetimenti Group for a few years, which was my first experience in watches – back in 1991,” he recalls. “So before I began with Versace, I had enough experience to bring my watch designs up to luxury.” His passion for the watchmaking craft, a niche that almost went into extinction back in the 1970s, comes from an early age. “It is something that grows inside,” he explains of his love of making luxury designs. “Watch consumption is one of the largest markets out there today and I used to buy a lot of them, even before I began working in the industry. I think it’s a real passion for men…we start to buy one, then the next and the next, so it grows. Watches are an incredible piece of art, and the design of some of the high end watches is just incredible.”

SK E TCH I NG I T OU T Galli begins working and conceptualizing with sketches or 3-D renderings. He plans each task in an extremely meticulous way, embracing a 360-degree vision of the project, defining the positioning, the strategy and the reasons for his design choices in direct relation to the brand. “I’ve been working with watches for 20 years, so I know what the proportions are,” Galli explains. “Sometimes I can even start directly with 3-D, which really represents what the watch is going to be. If we’re in a hurry, we go with sketches; otherwise we go directly to a 3-D rendering.”

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Galli is also keenly aware of competing with less expensive watches as he applies technology and creativity to the Versace brand. He claims he designs with a person in mind who is confident, strong, stylish and has the means to purchase a luxury timepiece.

“It also depends on the categories, of which we have several in the line….some are more sporty luxury watches, while others are more elegant, so each has a different spirit within the DNA of Versace,” he says. “I’m doing many brands with many price points, yet with Versace, it’s a completely different process. It doesn’t diminish other watches, because inspiration can come from anything, to be honest; life is full of revelations and creativity. So I do keep in mind the consumer. However, most of all with Versace, everything is driven by the inspiration we take from the Versace shows, fashion and designs. I think that brand has a very precise customer and is easy to identify.”

I M AG E T R A N S F O R M A T I O N When a man puts on a Versace silk shirt, it instantly transforms his image. Galli says the same happens with a Versace watch. “Again, the elements of Versace – the way we use the Medusa head, the Greek markings – the design elements reflect the image of Versace,” he says. “They immediately tell the story; there are so many elements that make up the Versace world. It’s also important to have an eye for detail in a very precise and sophisticated way.” So how would Galli describe a Versace watch in three words or less? “I would say glamorous,” he says. “That’s a perfect word to describe Versace. Creative is another element—and fun. Always fun.”

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“ I ’ V E B E E N WOR K I N G W I T H WAT C H E S F OR 20 Y E A R S , S O I K N OW W H AT T H E P ROP OR T IO N S A R E ”

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A LT RU I S T IC BY NAT U R E S H E L LY P U R DY G O E S B E YO N D T H E G L A M T O I N S P I R E C O N F I D E N C E A N D C H A R I TA B L E G I V I N G BY

BON N IE SIEGLER

During her first year at George Brown College, Toronto native Shelly Purdy designed a sterling silver ring with a pearl in a 3-dimensional style. In 1991, this unmistakable design morphed into her first collection of sterling silver animal rings featuring a cow, a lamb, a cat, a rabbit and a bull terrier. Now the mother of two teenagers, Purdy laughs at the thought of her confidence when she first visualized a children’s collection. “I managed to convince Birks in Toronto to carry them, so my first line got in there….not too bad,” she says.

I N TO A RT F ROM T H E S TA RT

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Having always shown an artistic flair, Purdy first envisioned a career in art, though she also wanted to be able to control her income and finances. “I wanted to have an artistic career that I could build a business around,” she says. And business for Purdy is booming, with her use of diamonds and precious stones set in gold, platinum and sterling silver. “I like working in sapphires because they are such a hard stone, right behind diamonds,” she says. Purdy has won the De Beers Diamonds Today Award, and last year, she received national press coverage for her Royals Collection inspired by William and Kate’s Royal Wedding. The line features symbols from the British monarchy, using Canadian diamonds in crown settings. “Maximum Brilliance Canadian diamonds were my sponsor last year, and I worked with them to create this whole Royals Collection,” Purdy says. “They’ve been my Canadian diamond supplier for a number of years.”

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ETHICAL DIAMONDS It was a trip in 2001 to the Ekati Diamond Mine in the Northwest Territories that changed the course of her career. Since then, the Canadian diamond has become her signature. “The ethical mining they do in Canada is very regulated, and they work within the communities,” Purdy says. “As far as quality is concerned, all diamonds are graded depending on their grade when they come out of the ground.” And how about this little bit of serendipity for a jeweller who wants to bring environmental awareness to her consumers and the world: “I was reading a book about the person who found the mine when the diamond mine people actually phoned me and wanted to show me their stones,” Purdy recalls. Besides her Royals Collection, Purdy is noted for her own personal favourite designs: “Achievement rings.” “I designed and developed these rings for all the women who used to come to see my jewellery at shows and look at my signature wedding bands and engagement rings and say, ‘When I find a man, I’m coming back here to get a ring,’” she says. “So I got to thinking that these women were accomplished and deserved a ring on their own terms. Jewellery is very emotional and symbolizes a lot of things for us, so the idea of having an achievement ring to stand as a trophy was my inspiration for these. You can stack these rings as precious trophies to celebrate your own accomplishments. I love that collection.”

“ I T ’ S J U S T A M A T T E R O F L O O K I N G A T T H O S E I D E A S A N D S E E I N G W H A T ’ S R E A L I S T I C , W H A T ’ S G O I N G T O WO R K . A T T H E B E G I N N I N G O F E AC H Y E A R , I L I K E T O C O M E U P W I T H N E W G OA L S A N D Q U I E T LY T AC K L E T H E M ,”

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HEARTS FOR HEARTS Another favourite of Purdy’s is her triple heart pendant for which she collaborated with Kingston General Hospital’s cardiac unit. “It’s to help raise funds for them,” she says. “The first heart is one that needs help; the second one has hands to symbolize the hands of a surgeon; the third heart has a brilliant stone in it. I designed it in tandem with a cardiac unit nurse.” Is this her way of paying it forward for her own success? “Yes, but it’s also fun. I think if you’re doing something as meaningful as jewellery, it’s not just about buying and selling – it’s about getting inspiration, working with people and hearing their stories. It’s getting involved and then designing.” Usually beginning with a sketch except when commissioned to make the Lord of the Rings ring for a premiere production in 2005 “that was done with a 3-D rendering,” Purdy puts into motion numerous daily ideas – some workable, some not. “It’s just a matter of looking at those ideas and seeing what’s realistic, what’s going to work. At the beginning of each year, I like to come up with new goals and quietly tackle them,” she explains. BEYOND THE GLITZ One of Purdy’s goals is to find a strategic partner who can work with her to help the environment by donating a portion of the proceeds. “I have a strong emotional sensitivity to helping the planet – not just Canada,” she explains. “It’s the oceans, animals, big game in Africa, Arctic happenings. After you get past the initial “let’s make jewellery,” you start to realize that there are other issues in the world. If you can pull them into your focus as you work, it makes everything more interesting. You need that fuel to go forward. I can’t just deck everybody out in glitzy diamonds and feel like I’ve done my job. It’s a lot more.” That could be what sets Shelly Purdy apart from other jewellery designers. However, the person on her wish list of clients is on many a wish list. “Oprah,” she says with a laugh. “She would be an awesome person to design a piece of jewellery for, and it would be an achievement ring. She has so many achievements, though, it would probably be one big ring.”

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A U T O W E I G H T B E A R I N G A S S E M B LY

CASING CLAMP SCREW

CASING CLAMP

CHRONOGR APH MECHANISM

R AT C H E T W H E E L S C R E W

CLICK R AT C H E T W H E E L

WINDING PINION

CLUTCH LE VER

MAINSPRING BARREL

CHRONOGRAPH PUSHER

YO K E COV ER DETENT D AT E P L AT E

STEM

D AT E W H E E L

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E B E L P R O P R I E TA R Y 1 3 7 CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT

MOV E M E N T OF THE PEOPLE T H E H E A RT OF YO U R WA T C H BY

G R E G O RY A R O N

EVER

H AV E YO U wondered what keeps your watch ticking? There are many different movements that keep you and your watch on the move. From the mechanical to the electronic, high-tech Quartz movements, they all work to keep you on time, in very different ways. The wristwatch was born as a functional military tool. Soldiers looked to replace their heavy, large pocket watches with something a little more practical for the battlefield; it was almost impossible to engage in battle with a pocket watch hanging on you. So they attached a heavy strap to their pocket watches and wore them on their wrists. It is said that as early as the 1880s, Gerrard-Perregaux, a master watchmaker, had introduced the wristwatch to the German Imperial Navy. In the early 1900s, ladies began to wear smaller watches on their wrists and call them “wristlets.” It wasn’t until World War I (1914-1918) that the wristwatch became well known and used. The first wristwatch movements were, of course, mechanical. They were and still are direct variations of the pocket watch mechanical movements. The mechanical movement in a wristwatch is very much smaller than that of a traditional pocket watch, and therefore required a higher level of skill and technology to make it work. Watchmakers replaced many of the metallic screws with rubies, which were harder and more durable. The mechanical movement is driven by a mainspring. This is manually wound by the person wearing it. It powers the balance wheel as the escapement slowly turns a series of wheels and cogs to eventually turn the hands around the dial displaying the time.

AU T O M A T I C As technology and skills advanced and the demand for a wristwatch not requiring manual winding became apparent, watchmakers invented the automatic mechanical watch movement. This was a simple variation of the manual movement. It used a weighted spinning rotor in the back of the watch. Every time you moved your wrist, it made the movement wind the movement automatically, eliminating the need to manually wind the watch. Brilliant! Rolex in the late 40’s and early ‘50’s was highly successful with its waterproof automatic wristwatch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. All mechanical movements—automatic and manual—are made with different functions and complications, from simple hours and minutes to the extremely complicated watches of the “haute horlogerie” that Patek Philippe uses in some of its very complicated minute repeater, annual calendars, tourbillon and celestial watches. These have sold for millions and are very complicated to produce, taking several years to complete—in some cases by master watchmakers. The tourbillon movement is designed to stop the effects of gravity. Its escapement and balance wheel are positioned in a rotating cage, which is usually visible on the face.

Q UA R T Z As technology advanced in the latter half of the 20th century, so did the demand for a more accurate and less expensive wristwatch. The Japanese company, Seiko, answered with the introduction of the electronic-quartz movement, first shown at the 1964 Tokyo Summer Olympics. Still, it wasn’t until 1967 that the first watch was released to the public, called the Seiko-35SQ ASTRON. This was the first wristwatch bearing a fully electronic quartz movement that became the standard and answered the call for a reliable, inexpensive wristwatch. Seiko never filed a patent for the Quartz movement, which allowed other watchmakers to produce wristwatches with this new technology. Quartz technology now, in some cases, has no moving parts. The technology uses the “Piezoelectric” effect in quartz crystals to power the movement. Piezoelectric charges are used in other technologies such as cigarette lighters and pushstart propane gas BBQ’s. All these quartz movements are powered by a small battery inside the watch. In the analogue watches, the movements are geared to mechanically drive analogue hands to display the time in a traditional manner. In other cases, the movement will use digital display to show the time and other functions. These movements have really proved to be reliable, functional and inexpensive to produce, making them the most common movement to date.

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* * * * WA T C H N E W P OW E R S O U R C E S Watchmakers wanted to move away from relying on a battery that needs to be replaced every couple of years. Seiko, again on the leading edge, introduced its “Kenetic” platform at the BaselWorld Jewellery and Watch show in 1986. Though it was only introduced commercially in 1988, the watch was the first movement to convert kinetic movement into electrical energy. This technology used a similar principle as the mechanical automatic movement: a rotor in the back of the watch powered a generator that charged a rechargeable battery. Citizen Watch Co. introduced in the late 1990s something similar, called “Eco-Drive,” which uses solar and in some cases thermal energy to charge the cell. Seiko also patented its “Spring-Drive” system, conceived by Yoshikazu Akahane in 1977, and presented at BaselWorld in 1998. These watches were made available for sale the following year. This system actually is very complicated, with Seiko’s high-end model, “Credor-Minute Repeater” in rose gold, priced at approximately US$400,000. It’s considered to be a “grand complication.” This technology uses mainspring, barrel, automatic winder and stem, just as in a mechanical movement, to store the energy. Instead of an escapement, the watch has what Seiko calls a Tri-Synchro Regulator to regulate the mainspring. It is really pretty complicated, using three different types of energy: electrical, mechanical/electrical and electromagnetic. This is a very special movement, being the only one in the world using a time-only loop. Purists and collectors tend to stick to the older mechanical movements, as they are hand made and assembled by master watchmakers over many years. Like art, they can appreciate in the collectors market over the years; however, if you want something accurate, reliable and affordable, look at some of the latest electronic quartz watches.

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T H E H I S T O R I C P O L I S H C A P I T A L DA Z Z L E S W I T H I T S R E S T O R E D O L D A R C H I T E C T U R E , B E AU T I F U L A M B E R J E W E L L E RY A N D L I V E LY N E W E A T E R I E S BY

BA R BA R A K INGSTON E

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A S A C I T Y F I L L E D W I T H B O U N D L E S S H I S T O R Y , Warsaw has captivated tourists for countless years by indulging them with an array of rich culture, with architecture being one of the leading features. Sightseers are treated to ancient castles and statuesque cathedrals, and have a chance to survey the still-standing constructions that were initially erected during the Communist regime. Whatever had been completely or partially destroyed during World War II has now been rebuilt. Much of the reconstruction was done from photographs in order for the renovations to be as close to the original buildings as possible. One case in point is the renowned Old Town Market Square. Only four buildings were left standing after the war; however, the existing restorations make it difficult to distinguish which of them are new and which structures date back hundreds of years.

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The raw, concrete leftovers that are still seen throughout the city contrast with the newer and more vibrant yellow, blue and green stucco buildings. Every inch of the square is seemingly filled with tourists, and while they have access to a myriad of typical souvenir stores, the attractive setting of the square also encompasses a variety of beautiful flower stalls, outdoor cafes, restaurants and high-quality boutiques. Every time I return to Warsaw, the culture of this city amazes me even more. As a tourist, no one should miss out on the delicious traditional dishes of the locals, including perogies and potato pancakes. Real food enthusiasts can have a great time exploring all the new eateries that have opened in the renovated and inviting parts of the city. And for those who are less adventurous when it comes to cuisine, Warsaw also offers a rich diversity of international fare. Another thing that I have learned about the Poles is that music is ingrained in their DNA. Not only will you constantly find melodies flowing out of city-street windows and filling up late-night jazz clubs, you can also treat yourself to a Frederic Chopin piano composition with only a press of a button found on some of the Warsaw street benches. As well, travellers can visit the iconic 20th century bronze statue of Chopin, one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heroes, in Warsawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest park.

S T O N E -AG E J E W E L L E R Y

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Historical records confirm that the first amber pendants were found as far back as 12,000 B.C. Amber artifacts started to appear in great abundance and began to take shape as beads and rings during the Neolithic Period and the beginning of the Iron Age. In the course of the Middle Ages, amber became a favoured raw material for an assortment of ornaments and jewellery pieces. Today, amber is a highly desirable commodity in Poland. One of the most renowned amber artifacts can be found in Krakow’s Wawel Cathedral, where an amber goblet, known as the “Goblet of Sigismund III Vasa” or a “hobble,” is on exhibit. Amber is created through a complex process, during which fossil resin goes through a series of transformations. Terms such as isomeric, polymerization and oxidization all play a part in this intricate and ancient development. Even modern researchers and professionals still find it difficult to define this particular formation.

Today, amber is no longer presented as just beads on a string, although it’s important to note that the creative use of polished and rough stones in a range of colours such as green, ivory, yellow, blue and black is becoming less prevalent.

W HER E TO BU Y A MBER If you’re fortunate enough to stay at the Mamaison Hotel “Le Regina” in Warsaw, which used to be the historic Mokrowski Palace, you will find a great assembly of amber pieces in the hotel lobby. Another excellent landmark to visit for some incredible amber creations is the renowned Bristol Hotel, where Nowinska Artistic Jewellery retails an exquisite selection of its own amber designs. Back at the Old Town Market Square, you will find the Metal Jewellery Boutique, appearing under an ancient façade, with a sleek and modern interior. The shop specializes in integrating brushed silver with rough, unpolished amber. At the Bozena Marki Gallery and Espresso Café, where Chopin was a regular for his daily cup of coffee, you will find the jewellery exhibits of a few young, new designers who tend to work with some of the highest quality amber. Their youthful takes on this ancient stone, such as black amber paired with leather, gives new definition to the more common use of amber. Enjoy Warsaw for everything it has to offer, from the incredible architecture and bountiful culture to the delectable foods and distinctive keepsakes. And when you’re hunting for that perfect piece of amber jewellery, just remember one rule of thumb about this stone: “If it floats, it’s the genuine thing. If it sinks, don’t dive for it.”

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WA R S AW ’ S O L D T O W N

F I N A L LY FA S H I O N A B L E As the economy in Poland steadily improves, there is also an increase in the general reverence for fashion, which has become more predominant throughout the streets of Warsaw. Nowadays, the Poles seem to be very aware of current trends – a welcoming change after many decades of fashion being thought of as an unnecessary frivolity. And while they’re not quite ready for the catwalks of Paris or Milan, Polish fashion designers are gradually making their move into the global fashion industry. However, with jewellery design, especially when it’s associated with amber, the Poles’ talent is tried and true. Amber is a stone that makes a frequent appearance throughout this and many of the other Baltic countries, where stores retailing the gem are omnipresent.

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P I A N O P L AY E R S Łazienki Park is situated in the middle of the city and features 76 hectares of lush, classically styled gardens from the 17th century. The park plays host every Sunday afternoon to an ongoing tradition where a well-known pianist plays for passersby under a white canopy, next to Chopin’s statue. After the impromptu concert, sightseers can walk down the park’s winding path to enjoy a view of a small lake, great flora and the estates that once belonged to aristocrats and the mistresses of various kings.

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T O T O A S T, OR NOT TO T OA S T BY

I R I N A LY T C H A K

ANNA POST

When it comes to etiquette of any kind, everyone has a different understanding of what is considered acceptable and what is offensive. can be applied to any one situation; it’s all very relative. Still, when it came to investigating the truth behind the most ideal practices of making wedding toasts, Ever didn’t hesitate to go straight to the top of the etiquette hierarchy. We wanted to set the record straight once and for all, and that’s why Anna Post seemed like the perfect source. After all, she is the great-great-granddaughter of the “Mistress of American Manners,” Emily Post.

T H E T OA S T M A S T E R

S TAY P O S I T I V E A N D R EMEMBER, SHORT E R IS B E T T E R , S AY S A N NA POST

For starters, tradition states that the main toast at the wedding reception is done by the host, and in most cases, this is the father of the bride. Along with this honour comes the responsibility of escorting his daughter down the aisle and having a reception dance together. In many cases, the couple is also toasted by the best man, who may also serve as the host of the event instead of the father of the bride. Besides that, the evolution of wedding practices has shown that toasts are not limited to these two figures anymore. “Usually at the reception, you keep it to the best man, the father of the bride and the maid of honour,” says Post. “But these days you often get a reciprocal toast from the groom’s father, and then sometimes you also get mothers involved, especially in the case of a mom who is not married to dad anymore. So it can certainly spiral out that way. You don’t tend to get friends, and siblings and all kinds of other people. If that’s going to happen, it happens at the rehearsal dinner.”

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M O R E R O O M T O P L AY Rehearsal dinner is extra convivial to toasts from other members of the family and close friends because it’s a more intimate event. And chances are, the audience will be smaller and comprised of people who are very close to the happy couple, and therefore, more interested in the toasts that are too informal for the wedding reception. “ will speak,” says Post. “It’s going to depend a little bit on the couple… Generally, [intimacy] is not a rule, though that tends to be how I’ve seen it happen. If you have your entire guest list of 200 people at your rehearsal dinner, you’re not going to do a lot of these speeches. However, if your 30 nearest and dearest are there, then yes, have five or six people stand up and say something throughout the course of the night… If you’re at all in doubt, you can always ask discretely if it’s all right to speak. “At one of my cousin’s weddings, my grandfather gave a toast at the rehearsal dinner. He didn’t do that at the reception. Actually, something came up, and he couldn’t go to the reception—normally, he would not have given a toast at the reception.”

DON’T T ICK OF F T H E GU E STS Timing is everything when it comes to giving a great toast at the wedding reception. Not only must the speaker be conscious of the start time of their toast; they also need to be aware of how long they are speaking for. “Sometimes people will do a toast after the initial reception, when all of the guests have arrived or have had a chance to mingle with the couple after the ceremony, if it’s in the same location,” says Post. “Sometimes there will be a champagne toast then, to celebrate very close to that moment of the vows. “And other times you will have a toast at some point during the meal,” she continues. “That could come at different times. Usually it’s after people have been eating a little bit, some time toward the end of dinner, beginning of dessert. However, that’s not ironclad, and it’s important to make that clear.” From what Post says about the length of a proper toast, it’s apparent that briefness definitely trumps longevity in this case. “You do want to err on the side of brevity,” she says. “I can’t give you a precise time limit, though on average I would say about 60 seconds and not more than that.” Post suggests that you practice your toast ahead of time, and time yourself to see if you’re going way over the suitable time limit. She also says that saying your toast in front of someone else prior to the reception will help you get some feedback and decide on whether it’s “really hitting the spot.” “Frankly, if you time yourself speaking, more than a minute or maybe two minutes is really a long time to ask someone to sit and just listen to you,” she says. “It’s good to practice ahead of time because if you’re going to be emotional, and you’re going to be in the moment, then it’s harder to gauge those things under those circumstances. “My take is generally, shorter is better. I’ve sat through some excruciatingly long toasts at weddings. And I’ve never once thought, Boy, that toast was too short. I’ve often thought, Boy, that toast was way too long.”

A CASE OF T H E J I T T E RS Public speaking, let alone giving a wedding toast, can be a frightening experience for some people. That’s why Post suggests that sometimes writing out what you’re going to say can be beneficial. “Some people find [writing your toast down] very helpful,” says Post. “Even if you’re not sure if you’ll need it, it’s not a bad idea to jot down a few key things you want to say. So if you get up there and find out you are a blank slate and didn’t think that would happen, you have [some notes] to reach to even if you don’t plan to use them. So that’s not a bad idea.” Does everyone need to have their toast memorized? Post says no: “If you’re a very nervous public speaker, if you’re very shy or you really don’t know what you want to say, then it’s perfectly OK to write it down and just read. That way you can save yourself the trouble of then adding spontaneity to your list of other worries.” And the bottom line, no matter what kind of public speaker you are: “You need to think about what feels good to you.”

As for the alcohol factor, Post warns: “I also wouldn’t have too many drinks before you get up there. Alcohol and nervousness and public speaking don’t tend to go well together, so have your drink afterwards in celebration of a job well done!”

S T AY I N G O N T O P I C Aside from the timing, the other crucial, and maybe even more important, element of the toast is the topic. “It’s very important to thank people for coming if you are the host,” explains Post. “And obviously you want to mention the couple and your happiness and your wishes for them for the future. This is pretty standard and you can say it in a million ways that are beautiful and personal.” Post also notes that there are several do’s and don’ts. One absolute must is to keep your toast positive; it’s clearly a very commonsense thing to do at such a joyous and celebratory event. “Do not talk about any past loves or relationships of either member of the couple,” says Post. “You can’t say things like, ‘Well, we’re so glad Sarah is not with that guy anymore.’ “And it’s okay to tell childhood stories. Try to have a point, though. A lot of people think that, ‘This is the time to tell everybody the funny, horrible, embarrassing story.’ That’s because every now and then, someone does it really well and then people think that’s what you do. However, people can really get into trouble when they try to tell that childhood story. That’s the place where I’ve just seen it go wrong so many times. “You should only retell childhood stories if they really make sense to the toast and if you have a point, because this isn’t about chronicling the person’s life, and it’s not about roasting them.”

ST ICK TO T H E POI N T Post recalls her experiences of not only sitting through some really long toasts but also through some “excruciatingly embarrassing and personal” ones that really had nothing to do with toasting the married couple. “It’s horribly embarrassing and it has no point! For example, bridesmaids – with the women wanting to compete in toasts and say something longer. You don’t want to put your guests through pain.” As for humour, Post adheres to the same principles just mentioned: “Humour should be positive rather than negative, it shouldn’t be embarrassing or hurtful. Remember that you’re not a stand-up comedian. You’re there to give the toast about how happy you are for someone and how many good things you wish for them for their future. Try to avoid the standard speech jokes; this isn’t really the time or the place.” For anyone who has been asked to or is planning on giving a toast at their next wedding event, remember that Post’s suggestions are mere guidelines, although she does speak from years and years of her own personal experience. And although being the great-great-granddaughter of the famous Emily Post “Queen of Etiquette” doesn’t hurt, Anna Post has written several books on the subject and continues to work as a source for topics ranging from green weddings and business etiquette, to politics and pop culture, for USA Today, the New York Times, the Associated Press and the Wall Street Journal to name just a few.

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SI NCE T H E Y’R E SO S M A L L A N D E A S I LY L O S T, YO U N E E D T O INSU R E T HEM

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T Y L E R K R OW I O R Z

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Of the many Canadian brides walking down the aisle in the coming months, very few imagine losing their rings shortly before or after their wedding day, especially given the emotional and financial investment couples have placed in their rings. However, accidents do happen. In fact, according to claims received by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, accidental loss has accounted for nearly one third of all jewellery claims in the past few years. “Some couples lose the ring far in advance of walking down the aisle,” says Mike Maley, vice president of Personal Lines at Jewelers Mutual. “A recently engaged woman was driving down Highway 5 in California with her hand out the window when her engagement ring slipped off her finger, never to be found again.” Finding the appropriate insurance for your wedding ring in advance will alleviate the distress and anxiety associated with even the most extreme cases of loss.

“Accidental loss is one of the leading jewellery claims reported by our clients,” says Maley. “However, standard non-scheduled homeowners’ or renters’ policies do not automatically include coverage for this type of loss. We also insure the cost to repair or replace damaged rings and gemstones, another area where insurance coverage can fall short.” Given how easily a loss may occur, coupled with the financial expense of replacing the piece, protecting your jewellery is crucial. According to Jewelers Mutual, damage and accidental loss can account for nearly 90 per cent of all claims in a single year. A common claim is “mysterious disappearance,” where someone is unsure whether his or her jewellery was stolen or lost. When pursuing jewellery insurance, a key thing to look for is whether the policy covers mysterious disappearance, as many do not.

I H AV E M Y R I N G , N OW W H A T S H O U L D I WA T C H F O R ? The most common jewellery insurance claims from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company reveal that jewellery loss or damage is an everyday occurrence that could easily happen to anyone. Many people mistakenly believe that as long as they keep their ring out of extraordinary situations, they won’t lose it. But no one intends to lose their expensive jewellery, and accidents happen all the time.

H E R E A R E T H E TOP SI X R E ASONS I N D I V I D UA L S R E P O R T C L A I M S T O J E W E L E R S M U T UA L : 1. Mysterious disappearance. This may mean anything from setting your ring down and forgetting where you placed it, to having it stolen without realizing it. 2. Lost at the beach or swimming pool. Water makes skin slippery, so if you keep your ring on your finger at the pool or beach, make sure you keep a careful eye on it. 3. Left it in a public washroom or flushed down the toilet. Double check that your ring is still on your finger before you exit any room, especially a public washroom. 4. Lost while travelling. Your normal routine is completely thrown off while you travel, and there are many ways to lose your ring. You could forget to pick it up after going through security, lose it at a hotel, or even have it slide off in a strange place without your knowledge. If you choose to remove your ring during travel, have a designated place in your hotel room to keep it, and give yourself constant reminders to pick it up. If you don’t feel comfortable leaving your ring with the front desk staff or keeping it in the safe in your room, consider leaving it safely behind at home. 5. Accidentally threw it in the garbage. Brides can accidentally throw away their rings when doing things as commonplace as drying their hands over the trash can or tossing out a lunch tray they’ve put their ring on. Do a check of your ring finger after every handful you throw in the garbage. 6. Chipped a stone when bumping something. All of your daily tasks will be different with your new rock, so decide in advance which activities may be dangerous for your ring. If you decide to remove it, designate a ring spot, and make sure you only set your ring there when removing it.

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J E W E L L E RY CA R E T I P S These jewellery care tips can help you maintain the shine and sparkle, and keep stones safely in their settings. Ring loss can be more prevalent among newly engaged brides because many have not yet had their ring correctly sized. While showing new bling off to friends and family is a fun and important rite of passage, getting the ring fitted specifically for you may be the best way to keep track of it. A ring that is too big can slide off without your even noticing it’s gone, and by then it will often be too late to locate it. Since your ring will now be a part of your everyday routine, pick a spot to always place it when you take it off. Some brides prefer to shower, sleep, wash dishes, apply lotion or bake without their ring. By having a small dish or a case near the areas where you remove your ring, you’ll always know where it is. As with car keys, if you don’t place jewellery in the same spot every day, you won’t know where to start looking when you can’t locate it. Remember to keep this ring holder away from any drains or dangerous spots.

INSUR E IT Think of all the things you own: maybe a car, electronics, possibly a home. If you recently got engaged, your ring may be one of your most valuable assets (especially if you don’t own a home). Since your car and electronics are most likely insured, it makes sense to get your valuable jewellery insured, as well. “Insurance costs approximately $1 to $3 per $100 of value, depending on the location where the jewellery will be kept, deductible, security, etc. It is a cost everyone should build into their budget for purchases of valuable jewellery items,” says Maley. Websites such as InsureYourJewellery.ca offer handy premium calculators online so you can easily get a quote quickly. While you’re at it, make sure your groom’s ring is insured as well. Often, couples overlook the emotional and monetary value that his wedding band holds because they focus on the diamond in her ring. Precious metals are important to protect too.

I N C R E A S I N G VA L U E

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Data from Jewelers Mutual reveals engagement ring values — which were increasing in price from 2005 to 2007 by about six per cent a year — hit a plateau in the years of the recession; however, average prices began to grow modestly from the middle of 2010 through 2011. Of those couples who insured their rings with Jewelers Mutual, the average engagement ring value has risen by more than two per cent since 2010. Because engagement rings are purchased months or even a year in advance of a wedding, couples who were feeling shaky about the economy might actually be in a spending mood again.

1. Get checkups. At least once a year, take your jewellery to a jeweller for inspection and cleaning. They’ll check for loose settings, faulty links, worn prongs and other potential problems. Ask for tips on how to clean your jewellery at home between visits. 2. Clean regularly. Clean your jewellery at home frequently to avoid dirt buildup that can increase wear. 3. Don’t wait. If you see a prong that’s loose, worn or catches on fabric, it could lead to a lost diamond. Take the piece to your jeweller and have it checked immediately. 4. Store jewellery gently. When you’re not wearing your jewellery, place each item in a separate soft compartment or container. Storing jewellery cluttered together can cause scratches. 5. Go easy. Diamonds are among the hardest materials on Earth, and yet they can chip if struck at the right angle. Don’t risk a damaged engagement ring. For any potentially highimpact activity, store your ring safely on the sidelines.

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You might have been offered an appraisal when you purchased your last piece of jewellery or when you acquired a diamond. Your insurer may have asked you to seek an appraisal for your cufflink or charm collection. To decide on the type of appraisal you need, you and your appraiser will need to determine its final use. Most appraisals are prepared for insuring the item to facilitate replacement. The process of appraising is pretty similar, regardless of the type of appraisal you seek. It’s the dollar amount at the end that may differ. The appraisal will be a custom-prepared, realtime assessment of a specific item, generally issued on paper. It will be thoroughly descriptive, and will provide enough detail that a third party would be able to decipher it in order to underwrite it for insurance, or to replace it in the case of loss.

Being real-time documents, appraisals reflect the value of an item at the time they are written. Values can go up or down, depending on many different factors no one can control. If you are insuring a diamond ring, your insurer will need to determine a “premium” (the fee charged annually) for insuring it. He or she is a specialist in insurance, so the underwriter at the insurance company, or your broker, will rely on a jewellery professional who is an appraisal expert to provide an opinion of value. The standard terminology for an insurance appraisal value is “replacement value.” This means the amount for which the item could be replaced, by the owner, in a conventional retail environment. It is also sometimes referred to as “insurance value,” or “retail value.”

R E TA I L E R S GA L OR E There are many retail environments. The local main-street jeweller, the mall jeweller, the big box store with a jewellery counter, the Internet retailer and others. So there are many different sources of retail jewellery, and many different price levels—meaning it can be somewhat difficult to arrive at a consistent, single level of value. In dealing with an appraiser, there are a few guidelines to follow. First, the appraiser should follow the “Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines” produced by a committee of jewellery industry watchdogs: Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), the Canadian Jewellers Association, the Insurance Bureau of Canada (IBC) and the Ministry of Consumer and Corporate Affairs, Competition Bureau.

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A R E T H E Y C E R T I F I E D? The appraiser you choose is important. He or she should be a gemologist, trained and certified by a gemological training organization such as the Canadian Gemmological Association (FCGmA), Gem-A (Britain)(FGA) or the Gemological Institute of America. The appraiser should also be trained in valuation science, through Master Valuer, International Society of Appraisers, American Society of Appraisers, École de gemmologie de Montréal, or the Canadian Gemmological Association, for example. The Canadian Jewellers Association certifies appraisers who have met stringent requirements for training, equipment, regular recertification examinations and maintaining clear ethical standards. These appraisers are “Certified Appraisal Professionals (CAP).” If you are having an appraisal written, check the credentials of the person writing the document.

OT HER T Y PES

W H Y T H E M ISM ATC H ?

What are the other appraisals for? Mostly sad things: probate of an estate, bankruptcy or liquidation (selling with urgency), divorce (not always sad), and for other things such as collateral for loans, fair market (the amount that a member of the public might realize in selling an item to another person or party, time not being of the essence). The document provides a description of the jewellery and gems in it, the nature of the metal work, and the age or provenance (documented history, if known and of importance to the value). There should be a photograph and a stated value with an explanation of whether taxes are included in the value stated. The currency in which the appraisal is presented is understood to be the local currency for the address of the named appraiser, unless otherwise stated.

Sometimes there are legitimate reasons for prices and appraised values not matching. The market these days is great for buyers, there is a lot of jewellery for sale and there are few buyers. There are genuine bargains, as dealers are buying at sales and auctions, and from consumers, who are selling their jewels for very low prices. There are wholesalers who are clearing out stock that isn’t moving, and the low prices may be passed on. As an appraiser, it is difficult to arrive at a deeply discounted value for insurance because that price may not be repeatable. All in all, it’s important to have an appraisal that is accurate, detailed and able to provide a value that is a true reflection of the price that would be paid in the market and conditions for which it is prepared. You’ll need to understand and explain to the appraiser what you actually need out of the appraisal. Appraisers can only work with the information they have.

E X PL A NAT ION N E E DE D

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Specialized terminology such as that used in description or grading should be quantified in the appraisal. For example, what does the appraiser mean by VS-2, G, 1.02 carat, anyway? What does “fair market value” mean? An appraisal that is twice or three times the selling price of something is bound to be a little confusing. How much is it “worth”? If it can be sold for $5,000 today and comes with an appraisal for $15,000, what’s up? Would you buy a car that was “worth” $45,000 for $15,000? Probably not. If you have an appraisal for two or three times the price you paid, then you may end up paying insurance premiums of two or three times the amount you really need to!

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& J E W E L L E RY _ 10 8

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A LL FOR L OV E A G U I D E T O B U Y I N G J E W E L L E RY F O R T H E WO M A N W H O’ S S T O L E N YO U R H E A R T BY

LY N N E S H U T T L E WO R T H

P E R H A P S B E C AU S E O F T H E WAY S O C I E T Y I S S E T U P, or because nature dictates that women take a bigger physical and emotional risk when they commit to a man, men may need to win over a woman’s affections as a relationship grows. And to win a woman, jewellery is still a fabulous idea. After all, have you ever heard a woman say, “I don’t like jewellery?” More likely, you’ve heard, “You can never have too much jewellery!” Once a blooming romance is looking serious, a woman will appreciate receiving a piece of jewellery from the dude she digs. (Of course, jewellery received from someone she’s not into will probably be returned.) The point to remember is that jewellery implies commitment. It means two people are serious about each other. Relationship and sexuality therapist Rebecca Rosenblat says this is a good rule to abide by: “No jewellery unless you’re exclusive and getting serious. The idea is to make sure that you don’t jump ahead of the stage you’re at.” She adds: “If you haven’t slept together just yet, hold off on jewellery—unless you’re waiting for marriage—since it’s very intimate.” As a relationship progresses, there are certain stages where it’s appropriate to give certain types of jewellery:

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S T AG E : SHE’S T HE O N E F O R YO U

S T AG E

S T AG E : B I G DAY S T O C E L E BR AT E Your relationship is growing and you’re exclusive. With her birthday coming up, you’d like to buy her some jewellery—though you’re not sure what to get. Rosenblat says that jewellery for special dates such as birthdays, graduation, promotion or holidays such as Christmas is fine as long as you’re in a committed relationship. “In the first year, stick to personalized jewellery, since it grabs sentiment more than anything else,” she suggests. “We’re talking about jewellery such as a bracelet with an engraving, or earrings or a necklace made out of the initial of their name.”

“ I F YO U R G I R L F R I E N D L I K E S S O M E T H I N G E L S E I N T H E S T O R E , J U S T S AY, ‘ M AY B E O N E DAY, B U T F O R R I G H T N OW I T ’ S A L I T T L E O U T O F M Y P R I C E R A N G E .’”

At this stage, which comes after a few months of dating, a couple realizes they’re no longer interested in anyone but each other. A man may wish to signify that with a symbol of his interest in becoming exclusive. A small item of jewellery such as earrings, a bracelet or a necklace would be appropriate. Definitely no rings should be given at this stage of the relationship. As “Jerry” who’s been married three times, points out, “Rings are loaded, so don’t buy them unless it’s an engagement ring.” Rosenblat agrees: “No rings at any stage, unless it’s clearly an engagement or a promise ring.” She also points out that diamonds would be a bad choice in the early stage of a relationship. “Don’t give diamonds in the first year unless you’re making a commitment,” she says. “Stick to semi-precious stones or no stones.” So how do you figure out what your girlfriend will like? It’s not as difficult as you may think. All it takes is a little observation. Pay attention to what she wears and what she likes. Does she wear earrings, bracelets and necklaces? What colours does she wear the most? Is her style classic or colourful? Does she like cutting-edge jewellery or a more old-fashioned style? Justin Stead, the CEO of Goldsmiths of London, advises: “Think about her first. It’s not about what you like. What does she like? What are her tastes? What is her elegance level? You need to really understand her and the things she likes to do.” Rosenblat comments that, “if you aren’t close enough to your girlfriend to know what she’ll like, you’re not close enough to buy jewellery for her.”

: T H IS IS LOOK I NG SE R IOUS

You’ve been together for more than a year and things are feeling great between you. You can’t imagine living without this woman, as she’s become part of your life. You spend weekends together, and talk daily. You feel close to her. Now would be a good time to buy your girlfriend something special, something that costs a little more money, something she won’t take for granted, and that she’ll cherish. Rosenblat emphasizes that at this stage, jewellery giving cannot be taken lightly. “No matter what he’s thinking, she’ll look upon it as a commitment if it’s really expensive,” she says. “If someone’s on a budget, making a sacrifice like that implies a huge level of commitment.”

S T AG E

: T I M E TO POP T H E QU E ST ION

Now you’ve arrived at the point where you need to make that big play, the request for marriage. Assuming your girlfriend is thinking along the same lines, you’ll be buying her an engagement ring. You can either make the ring a total surprise or let her know about it. If you decide to go the secretive route, you’ll need to find out what her ring size is, and understand her taste in jewellery. Again, if she likes simple, classic style, she won’t go for a flamboyant, avant-garde engagement ring. If you can trust her best friend to keep a secret (very difficult!) she might give you some insights. And of course, any good jeweller will be happy to consult with you. If you’re not confident enough to pop the big question and pull out a showstopper engagement ring at the same time, you’ll likely want to have your girlfriend choose her own ring. “It’s something she’ll wear for the rest of her life, so it’s better to let her have some input,” Rosenblat says. “Make sure you see your jeweller ahead of time and be clear on your limit, so you’re not shown more expensive rings than you can afford. The best way to do this is by making an appointment and having the jeweller pull out just a few items in your price range and show only those. “If your girlfriend likes something else in the store, just say, ‘Maybe one day, but for right now it’s a little out of my price range.’ Some women end up offering to put some cash into it, to get what they really want. If she wants to do that, don’t be offended—she’ll be thrilled to get exactly what she wants.”

BU Y I NG FOR A GU Y A woman who’s in love may also decide to give jewellery to her beau. This also should not be done unless things are serious, Rosenblat advises. “I wouldn’t do it in the first year, and the first item should be personalized,” she says, suggesting cufflinks, tie pins and watches. “And make sure he likes to wear those things before investing in anything.”

N E V E R E NOUGH A final note that comes after consultation with many wives: after you’re married, don’t stop buying her jewellery! All women agree that you can never own too much jewellery. Thinking that “she already has enough” won’t wash…That, however, is a whole other topic, which we’ll delve into in a later issue of Ever.

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D I R E C T O RY _ 1 10

* * * * DI A MON D

YOU R DI A MON D GU I DE

T H I N K I N G A B O U T B U Y I N G A D I A M O N D? I T ’ S T I M E T O L E A R N T H E F O U R “C ” S BY

D U N C A N PA R K E R

The time to make a decision about buying a diamond has arrived. It’s an exciting prospect: the opportunity to enter into a long-term relationship with a beautiful gem. It seems complicated, but it isn’t. What you need to know before buying a diamond is actually pretty basic. You should start with the four “C”s: carat, clarity, colour, and cut. Each of these is important in its own measure.

CA R AT Carat refers to the metric measured weight of a diamond. Diamonds are weighed before setting, and the measure should be the same, however they’ve weighed. • 1.00 carat = 200 milligrams, or 1 gram = 5 carats • 1 carat equals 100 “points” (like cents in a dollar). People often refer to weight in “points.” You might hear a diamond referred to as a “75 point diamond,” which means it weighs 0.75 carat. Certain weights are more desired, and prices escalate noticeably per carat.

CLARITY

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Clarity is based on an assessment of internal (inclusions) and surface features (scratches and blemishes) on the following criteria: • Size • Location of the inclusion • Colour of the inclusion • Number of inclusions • Contrast (visibility in their particular location)

Grading of the clarity of a diamond is based on 10X (magnified 10 times actual size) magnification in good lighting, using a trained eye, and standardized terms: • Flawless: Nothing internally or externally visible. • Internally Flawless: Nothing internally visible under 10X magnification, but may have very minor surface features, such as very small scratches. • VVS-1: Very Very Small inclusions, very difficult to find under 10X, usually not under the table (the large centre facet at the top). • VVS-2: Very Very Small inclusions, difficult to find under 10X, must be very small if under the table. • VS-1: Very Small inclusions, somewhat difficult to see under 10X, small if in the table. • VS-2: Very Small inclusions, seen under 10X with little difficulty. • SI-1: Small Inclusions: Might be seen with some ease under 10X magnification. • SI-2: Small inclusions: Can be seen easily under 10X magnification, might be eye visible to good eyes. Can often be seen from the underside (pavilion). • I-1: Included: Features can be seen with the naked eye, but the diamond retains its brilliance. • I-2: Very noticeably included, Features are easily seen with the naked eye., and the diamond may have reduced brilliance. • I-3: Extremely obvious inclusions, reduced brilliance, and possible danger of breaking due to large fractures or other inclusions.

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COLOU R Ideally graded in indirect north light or equivalent lamp. This ensures that you don’t have the sun shining directly on the gem. The colour is a grade of the body colour of the gem, not the sparkle or brilliance. Most diamonds are graded alphabetically, (for obscure reasons there is no “A”, “B”, or “C”), so colour grades start at “D “(completely colourless), and range through “Z” (noticeably coloured). Prices are highest for “D” colour and decrease as we go down the alphabet to “Z”. Colours more strongly coloured than Z have enough colour to be attractive, and the prices start to go up at this colour range. Colour: Fancy Yellow, brown, and grey diamonds more intense than “Z” are called fancy. Diamond is found in many different colours: • Red is the rarest and most costly • Blue is next • Purple • Pink • Orange • Green • Brown • Chameleon: Green in light and at room temperature, and changing to yellow if left in the dark or heated. • Grey • White • Black is very inexpensive and is opaque.

RADIANT CUT

ROUND CUT

PRINCESS CUT

PEAR CUT

MARQUISE CUT

O VA L C U T

EMERALD CUT

HEART CUT

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CUT Cut grade is a term relating to the elements that make a diamond brilliant, sparkly and lively to the viewer. Cut grade is based on a series of criteria, but there is not a single standard. The factors considered are generally the same for all: • Proportions • Symmetry • Polish • Light return/Light performance • Brilliance Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a word-based system: Excellent, very good, good, fair, and poor. This is simple to follow. The American Gem Society (AGS) uses a number based system. Cut grade can affect price more than 50 per cent, from ideal to poorly cut. The shape is separate from cut grade. Round brilliant cut is the most commonly seen standard cut type (as opposed to cut grade), princess cut (square or rectangular) is the one of the next most common cut types, and there are hundreds of other cut types available. The shape of a diamond will affect price. The round brilliant cut is the most costly, whereas princess cut diamonds are less expensive. One additional factor that we look at these days is the “F” word: fluorescence is a property of a glow (usually blue) that might be seen when a diamond is exposed to ultraviolet rays. Diamonds can have anywhere from no fluorescence to distinct fluorescence.

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PI N BA L L TAC K L E S SOCIAL ILLS

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The Michael “Pinball” Clemons Foundation (MPCF) hosted its annual gala, A Thousand Paper Cranes, in March. Billed as “an evening to make dreams come true,” the event raised $275,000, which will go toward helping local families and students succeed, and to help schools in developing countries. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y: S TA C E Y R O S E N B L U M

( L E F T T O R I G H T ) G R A E M E PA G E , PRESIDENT & CEO, GEORGE B R O W N C O L L E G E F O U N D AT I O N , HIS WIFE AND SHANE STEFURAK

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ALEXANDRA GUNN, LIFE & STYLE REPORTER, W E AT H E R S P E C I A L I S T, T O R O N T O S U N

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* * * * O N T H E S C_E1N16E

(LEF T TO RIGHT) SEGM ENT PRO DUCER J A N I N A PA L H A R E S A N D B R E A K FA S T T V H O S T J E N N I F E R VA L E N T Y N E

Country and western artist Dean Brody played an exclusive set of all-acoustic music at Fossil HQ to celebrate the release of his new album, Dirt. Ever dropped by to take in the tunes and mingle with local arts luminaries. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y: S TA C E Y R O S E N B L U M

D E A N B R O D Y E N T E R TA I N S

( L E F T T O R I G H T ) S H I VA N I K U M A R , E D I T O R I N C H I E F, Y Y Z , AND R ACHNA SETHI, EVOLUTION P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S

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(LEF T TO RIGHT) DESIGN ER ARTHUR MENDONCA AND TYLER HANSON

Aspiring models and other young women obsessed with fashion and beauty came out in droves to America’s Next Top Model Live during a May weekend in Toronto. Sponsored by PANDORA Jewellery, the Open Catwalk stage showcased beautiful summer clothes, designer fashions and unique jewellery creations.

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