Thursday, December 13, 2012 Page B1
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MARCELO PENA mixes latke batter in Leibman’s Delicatessen on Dec. 8, top left photo. CHEF PENA spoons the batter to form pancakes, photo at top right, and places the latkes in baking dishes filled with oil, photo at right. HEDY ADLER buys a latke from Eric Ramirez, photo at far right. LEIBMAN’S pairs its latkes with applesauce, photo below.
Liebman’s latkes sizzle every year during the holidays By Sarina Trangle strangle@riverdalepress.com
M
arcelo Pena says he’s flipped a million latkes during his 26 years at Leibman’s Delicatessen. Mr. Pena, 49, first encountered the fried potato pancakes traditionally served during Hanukkah when he started as a dishwasher there. Then, he worked his way up to the head chef position by learning from “the real old timers.” He mixes up the same latke batter the Riverdale restaurant debuted when it opened in 1953. Demand for Leibman’s bagelsized latkes soars during Hanukkah. The Jewish holiday commemorates a group of Israeli rebels’ triumph over a Syrian-Greek Emperor who outlawed Judaism in Israel around 168 B.C. After the victory, the Jews were eager to rededicate their temple, but only managed to scrounge up enough olive oil to light the synagogue for one night. Somehow, the flames lasted for eight days. Today, Jews remember this miracle by lighting menorahs and enjoying potato latkes fried in oil and topped
Photos by Marisol Díaz
with sour cream or applesauce. Mr. Pena flips 2,000 latkes a day during the holiday, Leibman’s meat grinder slices hundreds of cubed potatoes each morning and the deli delivers latkes from Washington Heights to Westchester, according to its manager Art Rabin. The crispy crust and dense, savory interior have made Leibman’s latkes a hit with Riverdalians as well. “They’re great,” said Hedy Adler, who is in her 80s and has been buying the $3.50 jumbo potato pancakes and $2 medium ones for decades. “A couple times of year, I get them –– when it’s time to pig out.” Leibman’s wouldn’t discuss its recipe in detail, but the deli divulged a few tips. Mr. Pena said caramelizing onions before mixing them into the batter helps give latkes a sweet flavor. He balances that with a pinch of pepper and sugar. Leibman’s has always fried the pancakes in the oven. Cooks can avoid getting splashed with sizzling oil by baking the latkes in a deep dish filled with oil. Mr. Rabin suggested testing the temperature by dropping a dollop
of batter in the oil. If it sputters slightly, spoon the batter into pancakes. If the oil is too hot, the latkes could burn; if it’s too cool; oil will saturate the pancakes and make them soggy. However tight-lipped Liebman’s may be, Press readers can turn to What’s Cooking author Danielle Rehfeld’s well-vetted potato latke and applesauce recipe: POTATO LATKES Makes 15 to 20 pancakes. 2 lbs., russet potatoes (about 5 small-medium sized) 1 yellow onion, peeled 1/2 lemon 1-1/2 tsps. kosher salt 1/4 Cup all purpose flour 1 large egg canola, grapeseed, or vegetable oil, as needed kosher salt Peel the potatoes and place in cold water. Squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl and on the smallest holes of a box grater, grate the onion into the lemon juice.
Next, dry off one potato and grate it on large holes into the bowl. Toss with the onion mix. Repeat with all the potatoes, working quickly and tossing with the onions. Add 1-1/2 tsps. salt. Mix and then wrap the potatoes in a cloth napkin and squeeze well to release all the liquid. Keep wrapped in an airtight ball until you’re ready to mix in the flour and egg. Toss the potatoes with flour and egg and form into small bite-sized patties. Flatten them slightly. In the meantime, heat a non-stick pan to medium heat. Add enough oil to fully coat the bottom of the pan. Add one latke to test the oil. It should sizzle and bubble a bit around the edges. If not, wait until the oil gets hotter. Once ready, add some latkes to the pan, leaving space between them. Do not overcrowd and adjust the heat as needed to ensure they fry without burning. When latkes become golden brown on the bottom side, flip them. Cook until brown and crisp on the other side. Taste to see if they’re done, and if the middles require more cooking, place in a 425-degree oven for 3 to 5 minutes.
from our home to yours,
Happy Holidays
Blot on a paper towel-lined plate and transfer immediately to a drying rack. Sprinkle with kosher salt and serve right away. APPLESAUCE 3 lbs. gala apples, peeled and cut into small chunks 1/4 Cup sugar, plus 2 Tbsps. 1/4 Cup water 3 Tbsps. lemon juice (about 1 lemon) Place water, 1/4-Cup sugar, lemon juice and apples in a large pot. Cover and turn the heat to mediumlow. Cook covered for 15 minutes. Remove cover and cook another 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until almost all the liquid has evaporated and the apples are tender. Add another 2 Tbsps. of sugar, more if necessary, and cook another minute. At this point you may leave the sauce chunky or puree in a food mill or processor. Serve immediately or cool down and serve cold or at room temperature.