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BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 7
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b TABLE o
Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Sarah Fenske
E D I T O R I A L Art Director Evan Sult Contributing Writers Cheryl Baehr, Daniel Hill, Jaime Lees, Doyle Murphy, Ellen Prinzi, Ben Westhoff, Danny Wicentowski Proofreader Paul Friswold Contributing Photographers Tom Hellauer, Mabel Suen, Monica Mileur, Theo Welling P R O D U C T I O N Production Manager Jack Beil M U LT I M E D I A A D V E R T I S I N G Sales Director Colin Bell Senior Account Executive Cathleen Criswell, Erica Kenney Account Managers Emily Fear, Jennifer Samuel Multimedia Account Executive Michael Gaines, Christine Knoll, Jackie Mundy Event Coordinator Grace Richards C I R C U L AT I O N Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers E U C L I D M E D I A G R O U P Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein Creative Director Tom Carlson www.euclidmediagroup.com N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G VMG Advertising 1-888-278-9866, vmgadvertising.com Riverfront Times 308 N. 21st Street, Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63103 www.riverfronttimes.com General information: 314-754-5966 Fax administrative: 314-754-5955 Fax editorial: 314-754-6416 Founded by Ray Hartmann in 1977
CONTENTS Introduction
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NEIGHBORHOODS
15
South City
16
Central/North City
28
St. Charles
34
South County
38
Mid-county
46
North County
54
SIDEBARS
63
STL Bars with Great Food
64
The World Cup (of Bars)
82
Head Start: Day Drinking 100
READERS CHOICE 109
The entire contents of Riverfront Times are copyright 2018 by Riverfront Times, LLC. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the expressed written permission of the Publisher, Riverfront Times, 308 N. 21st Street, Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63103. Please call the Riverfront Times office for back-issue information, 314-754-5966.
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Riverfront Times is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader. Additional copies of the current issue may be purchased for $1.00 plus postage, payable in advance at the Riverfront Times office. Riverfront Times may be distributed only by Riverfront Times authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Riverfront Times, take more than one copy of each Riverfront Times weekly issue.
ON t COVER
Photo by Theo Welling
Bartender Jordan York offers up a Hornitos Rose Petals and a "Muerte Oaxaca" at El Burro Loco.
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A SALUTE TO OUR FAVORITE BARS
W
e all know dive bars — those delightfully dirty drinking dens that keep us downing shot after shot, beer after beer after beer. We also know cocktail bars, which in recent years have elevated mixology to an art form, expanding our notions of what makes a good drink. But most nights, we’re neither looking to be challenged nor to get shitfaced. We simply want to have a draft and a plate of food, see a friend or two, and maybe feel a little bit less alone in the world. On nights like these, we’re looking for a good neighborhood bar. And, after months of research, we’re pleased to report that no one does these bars better than St. Louis. From Southampton to the North Riverfront, from St. Charles to south county, the metro area is
positively full of watering holes where the vibe is chill, the barkeeps friendly and the prices reasonable. Different neighborhoods have different options. In Shaw, the neighborhood bar is a wine bar; in the Central West End, it’s got a terrific whiskey selection. In deep south city, you’re more likely to get a can of Stag. But all are welcoming — whether or not you qualify as a literal neighbor. In addition to presenting our picks for the area’s best neighborhood bars, our crackerjack team of correspondents has rounded up the bars with the best food menus, the best bars for day drinking and bars to take you around the world. A salute to neighborhood bars doesn’t mean you have to stay in your neighborhood. It’s a big city out there; why not go exploring? —Sarah Fenske BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 11
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O’CONNELL’S PUB
THE HAVEN
Known as one of the darkest bars in town, O’Connell’s Pub (4652 Shaw Avenue, 314-773-6600) is best when you know how to work it. As soon as you slip past the green-glazed brick and into the place, you must get some food. Many food lovers swear the burgers are the best in town. Then once you’ve eaten, kick back and relax at the bar. Maybe order a whiskey; if you sit and sip silently, good things will surely come your way. The bar tends to be populated by older regulars and if you seem suitably cranky, they will invite you into their conversation and share all their hard-earned grumpy wisdom. If you need an opinion on anything, you can find it here. Complaining seems to be common — even encouraged — at this delightful bar for the moody and cantankerous. Old-school rules apply: Don’t be a sloppy drunk and respect your elders. They won’t have it any other way. 16
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The Haven (6625 Morganford Road, 314-352-4283) is straight-up south city. Set in the Boulevard Heights neighborhood across the street from St. Louis Fire Engine House 19, the brick corner bar fits right in with the neighboring bungalows. You’ll notice it only because it is a little bigger and has the added flourish of a gorgeous, vertical neon sign. Regulars roll in all afternoon for solid drinks and a comfort-food menu featuring plenty of Provel. There are fish dinners on Fridays, and it’s the kind of place that effortlessly accommodates families with kids even as a tipsy mix of bullshitters keeps things lively at the bar. It’s clean, the lighting is comfortably low without being too dark and a handful of TVs air the Cards game. Get there early in the evenings. It fills up fast.
TICK TOCK TAVERN The term “public house” has become so overused in the douchebag marketing of
bars that it barely registers at all. But Tick Tock Tavern (3459 Magnolia Avenue, no phone) is about the best example we know of the idea of local bar as community hub. The Tower Grove East spot fills up daily with neighbors out for a pint, local political party operatives strategizing new campaigns and those who simply appreciate the efficiency of drinking a beer under the owl-and-clock bric a brac while awaiting their dinner from the adjoining Steve’s Hot Dogs. It’s a place where less-than famous bands release their albums, charities hold fundraisers and the occasional market for music and movies sets up shop. It’s hard to believe that this revival of the long-shuttered space opened just four years ago, because the Tick Tock is absolutely embedded in the neighborhood.
THE ROYALE
The Royale (3132 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-772-3600) may well be the ultimate neighborhood bar. Conceived and designed as a place for those living near Tower Grove Park to gather together, this place will feed you, get you drunk, provide you with debate fodder or put you in a position to take a new friend home — pick your poison. The decidedly (and openly) lefty bar often hosts political rallies, debates and fundraisers in an effort to motivate neighbors to engage and be active in their community. The booze works as the perfect social lubricant, the patio is great, the cocktails are tasty and after a night at the Royale, you’re likely go home satisfied in one way or another. Or maybe you’ll get in a political debate and go home frustrated. In any case, you’ll be back soon enough. When it comes to a community gathering point like the Royale, none of the neighbors can stay away for long.
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THE HIDEAWAY
The Hideaway (5900 Arsenal Street, 314-645-8822) is unsinkable. The southcity bar survived the death of longtime owner Al Coco in 2015 with the help of a patron, who stepped in to captain the ship for nearly a year before Coco’s heir could complete its sale. It held onto its pack-aday crowd — and even added newcomers — when the city banned smoking. Not even the retirement this summer of Mark Dew, the scene-defining piano player, could capsize the Hideaway. After all the changes, the place retains the enduring kitsch of an old-school lounge. It’s cleaner, and the coasters are now more likely to be cardboard than crochet. But the drinks are still cheap, and the walls are still decorated with portraits of a mysterious brunette beauty who, like the Hideaway, continues to charm after all these years.
WHISKEY RING Cherokee Street is very much a musician's neighborhood, and the Whiskey Ring (2651 Cherokee Street, 314-669-5817) was established by musicians, so it's no surprise to find hardworking local luminaries either behind or bellied up to the bar. There is a huge wall of whiskey to choose from, of course, and the bartenders enjoy giving recommendations, but it's just as much a Stag-and-a-shot kind of joint. Weekends can get a little intense with destination drinkers, but if you're on the street during the week, and especially if you've just enjoyed a show at Foam or Off Broadway, Whiskey Ring is the place for knocking a few back and getting caught up on the local music scene's latest intrigues, straight from the horse's mouth.
NOVELLA WINE BAR Tucked inside a tiny storefront in Princeton Heights, Novella (5510 South B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 17
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Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-680-4226) is a cozy little wine bar that is perfect for all of your love life's needs. Whether you’re looking to set the mood for a romantic first date or just trying to remember the magic on your wedding anniversary, Novella has you covered. Drop in and enjoy top-notch suggestions from the attentive owner as you sample hard-to-find wines from across the world, including Romania’s earthy finest. It’s not a place to stop in to grab a glass on the way to your dinner reservation; it’s a place you’ll want to devote an evening to experiencing. The wide selection of quality tapas options will fill you up fast. These small plates? They’re not so small. Don’t forget to explore the enchanted garden out back. With its fountains and high fence, you’ll think you fell right into a romance novel. But this isn’t a work of fiction, it’s just a delightfully low-key wine bar that’s surely better than the one in your neighborhood. Enjoy.
SOHA BAR AND GRILL Though it opened in 2012, Southampton’s aptly named SOHA Bar and Grill (2605 Hampton Avenue, 314-802-7877) didn’t really catch on until recently. But these days, instead of being just another option on the edge of an area crowded with them, SOHA has become a destination bar — a place folks from other neighborhoods visit to experience. It’s almost like a more grown-up version of south-side institution Friendly’s. There are TVs on every wall and screens in every direction, but the chill atmosphere keeps them from overwhelming the action. The bar feels like it was designed for customers in their 30s: dark and generally more subdued than the average sports bar, it's the perfect place to catch the game while grabbing a decent bite to eat.
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RILEY’S PUB
Riley’s Pub (3458 Arsenal Street, 314-6647474) has all the good parts of an Irish pub — heavy wood, friendly bartenders and a solid whiskey selection — without all the leprechauns-and-shamrocks garbage that makes so many bars feel like an Irish Applebee’s. At heart, this Tower Grove East spot is just a good south-city bar with reasonable drinks, a mix of booths and bar seating and an inviting front patio. In the back room, you’ll find pinball and darts along with a small kitchen serving St. Louis-style pizza that you order from the bar. For the occasional fundraiser, Riley’s serves a weekend Irish brunch, and the bar often plays host to traditional Irish music. Have a Guinness — or a Schlafly. Either one feels authentic here.
MILO’S TAVERN Two things will always reign supreme in the Hill neighborhood: food and bocce ball. Milo’s Tavern (5201 Wilson Avenue, 314-776-0468) has both. With quick service and high turnout on both nights and weekends, Milo’s can easily become the rowdiest bar in an otherwise quiet neighborhood. Its prime location diagonal from St. Ambrose Church has made Milo’s an anchor for decades, hosting generations of the area’s Italian families. A sports bar with vastly above-average bar food, Milo’s main attraction still remains bocce ball. In the summer the courts are filled with old-timers who have been gathering in this neighborhood, in this exact spot, for their entire lives. On a hot summer night you can watch the clientele cycle from families eating dinner to groups of bocce-focused sportsmen to baseball-obsessed drinkers and on through the classic last-call rituals of “your place or mine” — all under one roof. B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 19
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THE SILVER LEAF
The Silver Leaf (3442 Hereford Street, 314-481-8040) is exactly what you want from your neighborhood bar. It’s small, drinks are cheap ($2.25 domestics — and you’ll save a quarter during happy hour) and the regulars are so reliable, the staff not only knows their names but even keeps their personal koozies behind the bar. The four high-tops are about as many as you could reasonably fit in this tiny watering hole, which feels lively with a crowd of ten. There was recently a bit of a shakeup in ownership when one of the partners bought out the other, leading to the following changes in one of the city’s oldest bars: a new paint job and a freshly mopped ceiling. Other than that, it’s the same old Leaf, decorated with firefighter memorabilia and a nearly life-size picture of Marilyn Monroe on the wall.
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THE GREY FOX This neighborhood bar is also a drag bar, which makes it one of the greatest neighborhood bars in the whole city. The Grey Fox (3503 South Spring Avenue, 314-772-2150) sits on a corner in Tower Grove South, with bright decorations outside and howling laughter inside that practically begs you to enter and check it out. But the neon-and-rainbow exterior only hints at the colorful scene indoors. The high-ceilinged bar area would be chic on its own, but here it serves as a mere gateway to the performance room — that’s where all the best stuff happens. The bar hosts live entertainment six nights a week, with amateur nights on Thursdays being a surprise hit. On this night, anybody who wants to try her hand at a performance is welcome to climb up on stage. The results are often astoundBBAARR GGUUIIDDEE 22001188 || RRIIVVEERRFFRROONNTT TTIIMMEESS 2211
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ing. But if you prefer your entertainment to be more of a sure thing, check out the Grey Fox on the weekends, when the seasoned pros show up and just kill it.
SOUTHTOWN PUB The drinks are strong and the food is good; what else does a neighborhood bar need? Southtown Pub (3707 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-833-3999) has that, but it also has more. Though it takes up prime real estate right across from the Starbucks on South Kingshighway, it’s usually full of people who can walk there. And why not? The bar offers a comfortable spot to grab dinner in or just drinks, with speedy and attentive table service. And a recent revamping of the huge back patio took things up a notch — it now has dedicated zones for outdoor games, grabbing shots at the outdoor bar or hiding out in the shaded and chill lounge section.
NADINE’S GIN JOINT Known as the friendliest bar in Soulard, Nadine’s Gin Joint (1931 South 12th Street, 314-436-3045) has something for everybody. This sprawling space is a favorite of locals, not just the drunken weekend tourists who flock to this picturesque neighborhood. Nadine’s is a restaurant during the day, but the open, tented patio turns into a huge dog-friendly beer garden at night. Staffers are kind and welcoming, taking great care to make sure each patron feels welcome and remembered. This bar can go from pumping music, pouring gin down your throat and getting you good and drunk on a Saturday night to nursing your hangover with coffee and eggs on Sunday morning. In that, it proves to be not only a smart business model, but also a great neighbor to have looking out for you. Thanks, Nadine’s.
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FRIENDLY’S SPORTS BAR AND GRILL
SUPER’S BUNGALOW
A king among its old south-city neighborhood bar brethren, Friendly’s Sports Bar and Grill (3503 Roger Place, 314-771-2040) fills up in the afternoon with shift workers in brightly colored construction T-shirts. The cheap drinks flow into the night when the younger crowd dominates the air hockey table, pop-a-shot hoop and pool tables. A vast menu offers your favorite fried foods practically for free, and the popcorn on offer is, indeed, entirely free. Friendly’s is a deceptively large place; you might need a couple of visits to appreciate it fully. Off the main barroom, you can go left for more seating or right into the buzzing, blinking game room with its many diversions and rows of TVs. Out back, you’ll find an L-shaped beer garden with a dual cornhole setup. Do what you want. They’re not fussy here.
TAMM AVENUE GRILL These days, Tamm Avenue Grill (1227 Tamm Avenue, 314-461-4902) is sometimes overshadowed by Mac’s Local Eats, the acclaimed burger spot embedded within its walls. But the bar itself has its charms. That is especially true in good weather, when its sprawling back patio is in full swing. It’s like a giant courtyard, with a couple of cinder-block stalls housing an outdoor bar and game room along the back edge. The main expanse is dotted by couches, umbrellas and pergolas, with the whole scene lit nicely by strands of lights draped overhead. Inside, you’ll find a U-shaped space with a bar in the middle and, of course, the Mac’s window, where hungry eaters wait to order what are arguably the city’s best burgers. The bar has a wide selection of craft beers, useful whether you’re in line for food or just hanging out to watch a game.
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Super’s Bungalow (5623 Leona Avenue, 314-481-8448) is an old farmhouse elevated more than eight decades ago to the higher purpose of neighborhood bar. The place not only has regulars; it has regulars whose parents and grandparents were regulars. A clean-up in 2016 did nothing to hurt its local status, although a serious upgrade in the food, courtesy of the in-house Stellar Hog barbecue operation, now attracts customers from far beyond the surrounding Bevo Mill and Holly Hills neighborhoods. The old timers don’t seem to mind. Maybe that’s because there’s plenty of room in the huge beer garden out back for everyone.
AMSTERDAM TAVERN There are plenty of reasons to visit Amsterdam Tavern (3175 Morganford Road, 314-772-8224), but one stands out above all: futball. As St. Louis’ premiere soccer bar, Amsterdam not only accommodates huge crowds for key games, but handles these rowdy fans with enormous reserves of patience. The large back patio comes in handy during crunch time, and food from next-door neighbor the Dam keeps the wild things tamed. Mostly. Here in North America, World Cup games start early in the morning, so it’s not uncommon to see an overly-celebratory football fan barfing — er, engaging in some zonal marking — outside around 10 a.m. once every four years or so. But it’s all in good fun at the Amsterdam. They live for this stuff.
SASHA’S ON SHAW Cozy in the winter, airy with plenty of patio space out front in the summer, Sasha’s on Shaw (4069 Shaw Boulevard, 314-771-7274) is the neighborhood wine bar for all seasons. Expect good service and a BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 25
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relaxed, stylish crowd. Sasha’s is roomy, but it is nicely laid out to create unofficial zones throughout: plush chairs around the back fireplace, small dining tables through main expanse and lots of seating along the long bar keep the feeling comfortably intimate. The wide patio similarly features room for groups or date-night couples. After just about ten years in the Shaw neighborhood, it’s a go-to spot for locals who walk and bike in for a drink after work or late-night happy hour.
33 WINE BAR Leave it to tony Lafayette Square to choose as its neighborhood bar not just a wine bar, but a wine bar with a list of interesting wines far beyond the usual roster of 2266
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merlots and pinot grigios. Then again, it’s hard to argue that 33 Wine Shop & Bar (1913 Park Avenue, 314-231-9463) doesn’t handle every function of a great neighborhood establishment, from the genuinely friendly hospitality to the marvelously chill patio tucked away in the back. The food menu is limited to a few cheese boards, and there’s not much in the way of non-alcoholic drinks, but that’s actually good incentive to head elsewhere in the neighborhood for dinner, and then come back — things can get rip-roaring here late at night, proving that even the city’s poshest neighborhood knows how to let go and have a good time. The shop also does a brisk to-go business, so if you like what you're drinking, why not get one for the road?
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ROSIE’S PLACE One of the truly great gin joints in the city, Rosie’s Place (4573 Laclede Avenue, 314-361-6423) has managed to weather not only great change in the Central West End but also the passage of the city’s smoking ban, an achievement that surely felt unfathomable back when it was one of the smokiest spots in the central city. But this no-frills bar isn’t just surviving, it’s thriving, with hordes of fun lovers packing its narrow confines and, generally, drinking with the kind of enthusiastic devotion associated with a bygone era. You don’t have to look far to figure out where the smokers went: Those big picnic tables just outside the front door fill up on warm nights, and you’ll have to shoulder your way past a literal cloud of nicotine to go home. Why not stay and have a piping hot TJ’s pizza and another beer instead?
JACK PATRICK’S Downtown’s chillest bar, Jack Patrick’s 28
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Bar & Grill (1000 Olive Street, 314-4368879) is a surprisingly spacious spot to have a bite and play a game (darts, shuffleboard, Golden Tee), or just watch one. There’s much to like about this low-lit spot, from the sign proclaiming Jägermeister the house wine to the cell phone booth that, we can only hope, shames people with business to conduct into doing it far, far from our whiskey. And did we mention the Clydesdales hanging in a glass globe over the shuffleboard table? They just don’t make bars like this anymore. A warning to those who like one-stop shopping: While you order your drinks at the long bar anchoring the back of the room, you’ll have to go to the little window to the left to take advantage of the food menu. It’s worth it; the roster of options is seriously huge.
BRENNAN’S It might seem a little too fancy to count as a true neighborhood bar, but Brennan’s
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SPEAKEASY Speakeasy (5532 West Florissant Avenue, no phone number) lives up to its name via its irregular hours (closed Sundays and Tuesdays) and lack of an exterior marker bearing its name ( just look for the old-school Budweiser sign). Inside, it’s not much to look at, with wood-paneled walls and a backbar that’s basically just bottles sitting on a table next to some chips. But the place has spirit. It hosts dart tournaments, boasts a kitchen serving everything from tacos to turkey burgers and plays music louder than any other bar we’ve visited. With a DJ spinning on a laptop on a recent Friday night, the decibel level was more akin to a nightclub. The patrons tended to be black women in their 30s, but everyone was getting in on the act. They put down their plastic shot glasses and belted out lyrics to an old-school Milira R&B jam: Why must I feel so lonely without you here? The bartender set down the knife she was using to cut limes and threw back her head:
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(4659 Maryland Avenue, 314-497-4449) is utterly at home within its cosmopolitan neighborhood — and for many denizens of the Central West End, this is indeed the place where everyone knows their name. Good enough for us. Kevin Brennan opened his storefront on Maryland fifteen years ago to sell wine, beer, liquor and cigars, but soon found the project morphing into a bar, one that also grew to include ping pong in the basement, a terrific assortment of sidewalk seating and a cigar club upstairs. Somehow, even with its enormous popularity and various expansions (a second outpost, a much different kind of project in Midtown involving coffee and coworking, is soon to open), Brennan’s has kept a cozy feel, personalized service and a sense of a humor (witness the always changing and always pithy phrases behind the rows of Scotch and whiskey). Visit just one time on a laid-back weeknight, and you might find yourself contemplating the kind of move that would allow Brennan’s to become your neighborhood bar, too.
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That’s why I wanna go outside in the rain. A couple who had been annoying each other by flirting with others set aside their differences to sing in unison: So no one, no one, no one, knows that I’m crying. Celebrating life’s sorrows together: That’s the Speakeasy way.
WALDORF LOUNGE Considering its broken front window has been repaired with duct tape, and considering that during off-hours the front door is padlocked from the outside, Waldorf’s Lounge (3963 Delmar Boulevard, no phone number) looks abandoned. But when it’s open — Thursday through Saturday nights — the place is often absolutely popping. Inside you’ll find mood lighting, exposed brick, a snazzy, updated bar area, and grown-n-sexy hip-hop (think Juvenile and 50 Cent).
Though it’s just down the block from the Freedom Place apartment building, which houses formerly homeless veterans, the clientele doesn’t tend toward down-on-their luck retired service men and women, but rather sharp-dressed African-Americans in their 30s and 40s. Even the drinks are well-adorned. When we were there a woman was selling, for $5 each, “drink covers”: small doilies with beads and a hole for your straw. Don’t let Waldorf’s glum exterior scare you. Inside, it’s got style to spare.
PALOMINO LOUNGE Fedora-wearing, ‘70s-Buick-driving, boxing-promoting St. Louis booster Steve Smith is best known for his South Kingshighway bar and restaurant the Royale. But while the Royale is something
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of a destination location — for political watch parties, sports viewing or community meetings — another establishment where Smith is a partner, Palomino Lounge (5876 Delmar Boulevard, 314-456-7890) is simply a classic neighborhood bar. Located at what might one day be described at the eastern end of the Loop (across from the Loop Trolley building), the 50-plus-year-old establishment was purchased by principal Rodney Smith (no relation), Steve Smith and two other partners about two years ago from its longtime proprietress, known simply as Miss Barbara. Hoping to unite North and South, black and white, the partners are certainly not the first St. Louisans with ambitions of creating city harmony, but if it’s going to happen, it might as well be at a stylish spot with solid drinks. The woodwork and light fixtures surrounding the bar are vintage and lovingly maintained, while the house cocktails tend to be fresh twists on old standards. Smith and Co. are not reinventing the wheel, and they may not bring about racial unification, but their preservation of a classic old spot feels like a victory in itself.
ZODIAC LOUNGE Zodiac Lounge (3517 North Grand Boulevard, 314-535-9800) has long had the coolest marquee in town — a mystical-looking circle chart of the astrological signs, including horoscope glyphs. Now it also has a cool owner, former mayor Freeman Bosley Jr. “Life’s a lot easier since politics,” St. Louis’ first black mayor tells us from behind the bar, adding that since he took over this spot not long ago they’ve repainted the interior (a cool, dark blue) but maintained the retro décor. There have been other upgrades as well; a customer shares that Zodiac is finally stocking
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olives, meaning he no longer has to bring his own from home for his nearly-all-vodka martinis, served with lots of ice in a rounded tumbler ($8). What hasn’t changed is the community feel. Even on a weekday afternoon the spot is jammed, and a desperate addict who arrives hoping to sell a discarded picture frame with the text “now I lay me down to sleep” somehow finds a buyer, a nurse in scrubs just off her shift who’s hoping to encourage her children to say their prayers at night. Word to the wise: If you want to drink here, you should be at least 35, and don’t expect to use the jukebox. “Who the fuck put this on?” asks beloved, despotic bartender Miss Shirley, as Frank Sinatra interrupts her string of Erykah Badu jams. Even with a mayor for a boss, she does things her way.
GREGG’S BAR & GRILL By the sweat of their brows. That’s how most of the people in the industrial north riverfront get by. But when they get to Gregg’s Bar and Grill (4400 North Broadway, 314-421-1152), the work stops, the dust on their boots settles and they’ll settle in to partake of the fruits of that labor — except, of course, they’re not ordering fruit at Gregg’s. This is a realm of beer and burgers, of generous fish sandwiches and perfect onion rings. It’s a place that attracts diverse characters and old friends, everyone from cops to construction workers to nearby neighborhood residents. Amid the area’s industrial sprawl, some call this place an oasis, but the warmth within doesn’t evoke a desert. There is a richness here, wealth measured in food and drink that remain consistent across years. It’s more like a garden, an Eden where temptation comes from a bottle of whiskey — but the only sin is failing to partake.
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Duchesne Bar and Grill. | K E V IN KOR IN E K
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out drunk and hungry.
Often called the Fast Eddie’s of St. Charles, Duchesne Bar and Grill (1001 South Duchesne Drive, St. Charles; 636-947-0920) knows how to party on this side of the river. This long-time neighborhood tavern has been a favorite watering hole for decades, offering just about everything you could want out for a memorable night out — pool tables, karaoke, Stranger Things-style Christmas lights strung above the bar, cheapo drinks, darts and a fully-stocked cigarette machine (for now, you can still smoke in St. Charles. Freedom!). The bar also hosts a steady stream of events, including themed bingo, Sunday fried chicken dinners and BB gun shoots. But the biggest draw is the large kitchen window, which pumps out cheap eats faster than a taco joint on a treadmill. Bar food that falls within the $5 price tag and midnight kitchen hours on the weekends mean never having to pass 33 44
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LINDENWOOD PUB
The bartender at Lindenwood Pub (138 North Kingshighway Street, St. Charles; 636-916-5100), an unassuming sports-centric bar in the middle of St. Charles, is on a first-name basis with every regular who walks in the door and stumbles out at closing time. “You’re the only person in this bar right now that I don’t know,” she tells us on our recent visit. Budweiser and Cardinals gear dominate the walls, and Shiner Bock and Golden Light take center stage on draft. This small space for locals offers a temporary respite from reality with cheap liquor, Keno and dart boards. Tuesdays bring more hard-working union crowds, with all-day $1 PBR, Natty Light and Stag, while home runs and slap shots bring trays of free jello shots stacked high. Why not begin your night before noon, with happy-hour drink specials that start as early as 11:30 a.m.?
LEO’S PUB & GRILL
Leo’s Pub & Grill (2198 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles; 636-757-3566) might seem like your run-of-the-mill, strip-mall-style corner bar, but this quiet neighborhood spot packs a punch during the week. Upstairs is a cozy, shotgun-style bar, where smokers can fuel up on buckets of Bud Light and cheap bar bites from the kitchen window. The space downstairs is three times as big, complete with leather sofas, pool tables, a double-sided bar and a massive stage. (In this room, smoking is not permitted.) The bar hosts karaoke four days a week and a free Texas Hold'Em poker game on Thursdays, but its biggest claim to fame is a monthly drag show called Dragote Ugly — yes, you read that right: a drag show in St. Charles. If that hasn’t piqued your interest, nothing will.
Leo's Pub & Grill. | K E V IN KOR IN E K
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MAGGIE O’BRIEN’S
Sunset Hills lucked out this year. With the newly opened Maggie O’Brien’s (3828 South Lindbergh, Sunset Hills; 314-8427678), it gained a faithful translation of the original Maggie O’s, which has long been a downtown St. Louis favorite. Nothing on the menu has been lost in the expansion: You’ve got your handmade chips, your corned beef and cabbage, and even “Fat Eddie’s Big Boys,” a selection of sandwiches for the seriously hungry. But this Maggie isn’t identical to her older sister: the main bar, which bends at three places to accommodate twenty stools, seems engineered perfectly for socializing and sports-related cheering and jeering. It’s like an Arthurian roundtable, but with fewer swords and a lot more Guinness. And sure, south county doesn’t lack for Irish bars — Helen Fitzgerald’s is just down the street — but Maggie O’Brien’s already shows the polish of a much older establishment, not to mention 38
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the patrons to appreciate it. This Maggie O’Brien’s knows exactly what it is, from its green walls to its dark red house beer. Some might call such quick success luck. Maggie would call it tradition.
DULANY’S GRILLE & PUB From the first sip from a frosted glass to the first perfect bite of a hexagonal toasted ravioli, Dulany’s Grille & Pub (9940 Kennerly Road, 314-849-1554) manages to elucidate perfectly the difference between “just some bar” and a true neighborhood staple. Dulany’s is perfectly positioned to be everyone’s favorite hangout. One half is a chummy sports bar, the other an expansive, restaurant-style area, with a restaurant’s daily food specials and a dependable stream of new entrees. It’s also got a 4 to 7 p.m. weekday happy hour with $6 specials on burgers, wings and personal pizzas. It’s then got an extra happy hour from 9 p.m. to close. And hey, it’s even
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Croc's Sports Bar. | DAN N Y W ICEN TOW S KI
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got homemade sangria for cryin’ out loud. You might be able to think of something Dulany’s doesn’t have — but just wait. One of these days you’ll turn around on your bar stool, and it’ll be right there.
Croc's Sports Bar. | DAN N Y W ICEN TOW S KI
JP’S CORNER BAR AND GRILL If a good bar is like a good album, then JP’s Corner Bar and Grill (11890 Gravois Road, 314-842-1996) is the one you'd keep in your car’s CD player all summer. And this would be no meager five-song EP, but a full concept album. The interior manages to feel like a dive bar ate a banquet hall. Its long bar covered in Cardinals banners sits next to an expansive seating area that could comfortably hold several softball teams, and beyond that are four full-sized pool tables and a stage that hosts local bands kicking out blues, rock and country favorites. The acreage is put to good use, hosting live music and karaoke four days a week, but it wouldn’t be much without food and drink; thankfully, JP’s is rocking a menu filled with sub-$10 items and domestic beer that comes $7 a pitcher during the daily 3 to 6 p.m. happy hour. That’s a melody anyone can sing along to.
HESSLER’S PUB & GRILL In south county, the traditional neighborhood bar found its home in the strip malls dotting the landscape of suburban sprawl. Hessler’s Pub & Grill (11804 Tesson Ferry Road, 314-842-4050) staked out its spot in 1983 and hasn’t let go since. Even with a change of ownership in 2009, the menu remains deep on choices, from barroom staples to a dish of 25 fried mini tacos (sharing optional). Many hungry eyes, however, alight on the house burger and never move past it ... and that works too. On the weekends, Hessler’s boasts
south county’s longest-running karaoke scene, and with its neon bar lights and wood-paneled walls, the place feels like your dad’s comfortably retro ‘70s basement, only with the addition of a full kitchen and happy hour with $2 bottles and $5 appetizers. Even better: Every month Hessler’s spreads some joy and pulls an all-day happy hour. That’s the kind of community spirit that should keep the place open at least another 35 years.
THE BLARNEY STONE A storefront-spanning, Kelly-green canopy is the first thing you’ll spot at the Blarney Stone Sports Bar and Grill (4331 Telegraph Road, 314-487-4235). The awning is hung with planters, a grandmotherly touch, and it puts a sort of garden moat around the eight-table patio. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, the patio hosts live music; otherwise, your soundtrack will be conversation, clinking glasses and the distinctive slap of a bean bag hitting a wooden target in the parking lot. The interior is no less hospitable, and it offers respite from the smokers congregating outside. Considering the mugginess of St. Louis weather, a climate-controlled barroom is never a bad idea, especially one stacked with TVs tuned to the game, cheap drinks delivered in buckets, St. Louis-style pizza ($9 for a large two-topping Mondays and Thursdays) and a full menu featuring meat from the butcher’s shop just down the street. Add to that the locals, the families, the sports fans rooting for the Cards to just win everything already — and it’s obvious Blarney’s isn’t merely a neighborhood bar. It’s a bar with a whole neighborhood crammed inside it.
CROC’S SPORTS BAR A crocodile with a somewhat dazed expression presides over Croc’s Sports
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PLEA SE ENJOY R E SP O N SI BLY. © 2018 L U X R O W D I STI L L E RS ™ , BARDSTOWN, KENTUCKY.
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and so you may find yourself at closing Bar (5591 Oakville Shopping Center, time suddenly confronted with that 314-894-0043), but that laidback reptile is singular barroom tragedy: your last probably just feeling the effects of bucket still has bottles tragically gorging at Crusoe’s, the sister restaurant next door. There are pages of sandwiches, undrunk. Panic not! This is not some fascist discotheque that forces you to burgers, wings, pizza, seafood, steak — at choose between chugging or abandoning the Croc’s/Crusoe’s complex it’s easy to let your eyes outgrow your stomach. (And your lawfully bought booze. Under Croc’s decade-plus policy, you can just return yes, it is a complex; the two share ownership and management, and you can any unopened drinks at closing time in have Crusoe’s menu items delivered right exchange for tokens that can be redeemed at a later visit. Now that’s a to your seat at the bar.) Croc’s interior bends around the bar, creating a spacious neighborly policy if we’ve ever encountered one. L that starts at the entrance, where a chalkboard proclaims the day’s absurdly cheap drink special (think $1 wells and SCHOTTZIE’S domestic drafts on Friday and Saturday They don’t make ‘em like Schottzie’s Bar night), and continues past a foosball and Grill (11428 Concord Village Avenue, table, an Aerosmith pinball machine, a 314-842-1728) any more — a one-room bar pair of dart boards and pool tables. that manages to be both totally bar and PLEA SE EN J O Y R E SP O N SI BLY. © 2018 L U X R O W D I STILLERS , BARDSTOWN, KENTUCKY. There’s plenty to do, and eat, and watch, also, during daylight hours, remarkably ™
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Schottzie's. | S A R A H F E N S K E
family-friendly. First opened in 1947, the place is nothing fancy, with a long bar running the length of a room positively stuffed with seat-yourself tables and the faint aftertaste of cigarette smoke years after going tobacco-free. While the regulars are mostly a bit older, on some nights you can also find three generations of families tucking into the pizza here, which is much-loved in a huge swath of south county. But why stop there? The menu is vast, and the truly adventurous will surely want to try the pork brain sandwich, a house specialty that summoned a visit from no less than Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern. “It’s got that crispy chicken-fried thing on the outside,” he reported to viewers. “It’s creamy, it’s not very gamy or organ-y.” High praise?
SAPPINGTON LOUNGE Cozy, friendly and cheap, Sappington Lounge (11569 Gravois Road, 314-8425316) is a dive bar that’s dispensed with the grunginess and gone all-in on blue collar charm. This is a lounge, after all. That means cheap beer ( just $2.75 for bottles), smoky air and bartenders who’ll remember your order on your second visit. They’ll likely also remember your personal drama, your vacation stories, your good luck and your bad. It’s the same for the regulars who occupy the choice bar seats, from the pair of tired construction workers to a flock of Cardinals fans grousing about this year’s bullpen. So pull up a seat. Treat yourself to the complimentary buffet on the weekends. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em. Because once the Sappington Lounge has got you, you’ll know you’re home.
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Seven great tasting and refreshing flavours – Bent Orange, Blue Bullet, Crooked Cream Soda, Pina Colada, Smashed Grape, Watermelon Head, and Wild Raspberry. Tons of flavor! Perfect for patios, golf courses, sporting events, music festivals and backyards everywhere!
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Hard Ice Vodka Freezies are available individually and in 6.8% alc./vol. 6 packs.
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THE FOX & HOUNDS
Step into the Fox & Hounds Tavern (6300 Clayton Road, Richmond Heights; 314-647-7300) inside the Cheshire Hotel, and you’ll feel immediately transported to a sitting room in the English countryside. The dark-and-moody interior, complete with a stone fireplace, makes it feel like a cozy winter’s day regardless of the season. On weekends, enjoy live music from either a jazz trio or a lone pianist. Along with your scotch, hearty ale or drink of choice (there is a proper cocktail list), you can find small plates and a limited number of large options if a hunger craving hits. The bar has long been a local favorite. The dim lighting makes it a perfect place for date-night drinks, the comfortable couches in the center of the room a great excuse to sit a little bit closer. The eclectic bar generally has a good crowd, and its central location make it an easy spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks. 46
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The Fox & Hounds. | TOM H E LL AU E R
SASHA’S ON DEMUN Everyone from desperate Clayton housewives to Wash U college students loves Sasha’s on DeMun (706 DeMun Avenue, Clayton; 314-863-7274). The half indoor/half outdoor space is in rotation for just about everyone’s happy hour, Tinder date or “let’s meet for a drink” spot. The vibe is consistently cute, cozy and crowded, regardless of the season, with a wine list that's eclectic and diverse in both price and variety. And with menus displayed on iPads, searching and reading about varietal choices is an educational experience, not just a game of eeny, meeny, miny, moe based on how much you want to spend. The food menu is suitable for light snacking or a full meal, with the pizzas and cheese plates being standouts. Regardless of the season, Sasha’s will always leave you with a warm glow — half wine buzz, half “this place is just so damn perfect.”
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THE CROW’S NEST
The Crow’s Nest (7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-781-0989) hits that sweet spot between neighborhood restaurant and dive bar. Its no-nonsense attitude is apparent from the start. The sign outside reads, “Come and see what everyone is complaining about.” And if a good beer selection, salty bartenders, long hours and pinball machines aren’t reason enough to rank the Crow’s Nest high on your list of watering holes — well, you might complain, but why should they care? The food offerings are not traditional frozen bar food, but elevated and craveable, while the back patio provides a semi-hidden, outdoor oasis for a laidback evening or an afternoon happy hour to enjoy the weekday drink specials. Check the bar's website before heading out; it features different theme events, including stand-up comedy, trivia, game nights and its famous weekend Metal Brunch. “Come in sober,” the Crow's Nest instructs. “Leave happy.” And we always manage to do just that.
THE VILLAGE BAR
The Village Bar (12247 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314-821-4532) opened all the way back in 1948 and has remained a staple ever since, an oasis in the middle of the strip malls, shopping malls and chain restaurants that now dominate the area. It was actually scheduled for demolition in 2016, but the voice of the people prevailed and the bar survived — a west county miracle. Don’t be fooled by its candy-cane-colored exterior: The Village Bar's interior is dimly lit and dark, which is perfect for drinking a cold beer and taking in a Blues or Cards game. This classic neighborhood spot is on the small side and as such can get pretty crowded for both dinner and lunch, although the back deck provides a handful of additional tables on nice days. The Village Bar also
offers plenty of TVs, a jukebox, shuffleboard and some really good burgers and onion rings.
SPORTSMAN’S PARK
Sportsman’s Park (9901 Clayton Road, Ladue; 314-991-3381) has been a go-to spot for watching sports and eating burgers since NFL Hall of Famer Jackie Smith opened it (with Norman Probstein) nearly 50 years ago. Everything about the bar oozes old St. Louis, and a nostalgia for time gone by greets you with every visit. The dark walls are adorned with St. Louis sports memorabilia (including a huge Jack Buck photo montage) and TVs, making it a classic, unpretentious spot to grab a beer or cocktail, which can be hard to find in the Ladue zip code. Besides being known for drawing an older, male, post-country-club crowd, Sportsman’s has earned a reputation for what are arguably St. Louis’ best chicken fingers. Grab an ice-cold Budweiser and some bar snacks, and watch the Redbirds as Jack Buck looks on.
KRUEGER’S
On any given night at Krueger’s (7347 Forsyth Boulevard, University City; 314-721-9965), you’ll find half the bar is full of post-work suits from nearby Clayton and the other half packed with your typical casual bar-goer (probably in a Cardinals or Blues shirt). The proximity to Wash U also means there will be a fair share of grad students and older undergrads. And hell, if you go late enough you might even see a chef or two; Krueger’s is well-loved by the industry crowd. Like most true neighborhood bars, this is not a spot for craft cocktails — unless your idea of a cocktail is a vodka soda or a Jack and Coke. Stick with the specialties: beer, burgers and baseball. Krueger’s also offers sidewalk dining and a menu
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consisting of the usual suspects of fried appetizers, sandwiches (both hot and cold) and salads. In addition to the burgers, the other standout is the kitchen’s famous chili, because who doesn’t love some late-night chili?
DOUBLE D KARAOKE You know the feeling. You’ve just spent way too much time and money at the St. Louis Galleria, and now you’re driving down Brentwood Boulevard, feeling like a chump. You spot a low-slung parking garage with a weird entrance ramp connected to a straight left turn off an intersection. Take that left and get thee to Double D Karaoke (1740 South Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood; 314-961-5646). Grab a $1 jello shot and a free bag of popcorn, and consider the temptations of grilled cheese bites. Our advice? Go for it. As long as it’s not Sunday, karaoke starts at 8 p.m., and at that point, you’ll start to
see why this gem of a bar attracts all comers — the after-hours office-partiers, the college students and everyone in between. At some point, someone will start crooning “Walking in Memphis.” Then somebody else will climb the vocal ladder that is “Rebel Yell” — and a pitch-perfect Frank Sinatra will follow up with a classic you never knew you needed in your life. Even if you don’t have a singer’s bone in your body, Double D’s will cure you of more than just shopping woes. It’ll get you hooked on a great feeling.
BILLY G’S Modern, massive and massively popular, Billy G’s (131 West Argonne Drive, Kirkwood; 314-984-8000) has become a hot spot not just for Kirkwood, but for its surrounding neighborhoods and fellow suburbs, since opening in 2013. In the family-dining mecca of Kirkwood, known for its kids’ menus and
Orbit Pinball Lounge. | TOM H E LL AU E R
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long-standing mom-and-pop establishments, Billy G’s is a magnet for happy hours, sports fans, live music and, on weekends, the after-dinner drinks crowd. The huge patio is a draw yearround, but especially in the summer, when it’s packed from happy hour to close almost every night. During the fall and warmer winter days, the heat lamps keep the party going. Inside, the large bar area is full of patrons wearing Vineyard Vines and Kirkwood regulars. Regardless of the time of year, the main dining room is family friendly and the large menu with large portions really does have something for everyone.
THE GEYER INN If you picked up a south-city dive bar and dumped it in Kirkwood, you’d have the Geyer Inn (220 South Geyer Road, Kirkwood; 314-814-9402). This old stone bar looks more like Grandma’s cottage than a dive bar. Inside, the cozy interior sports a loose hockey theme, with a mish-mash of Blues memorabilia, a hockey foosball game and a jukebox. Originally built as a gas station in 1904, the property was converted to a tavern in the 1930s and updated again in 2010. It offers a full bar, a handful of taps and a minimal beer selection dominated by AB
products. If you show up at this watering hole with more than three friends, you’ll feel as if you rented out the whole place. The crowd is all local and mainly in their 50s or older; eavesdroppers should expect to overhear plenty about their glory days at Kirkwood High.
ORBIT PINBALL LOUNGE Step inside the uber-cool Orbit Pinball Lounge (7401 Hazel Avenue, Maplewood; 314-769-9954) for vintage pinball and Skee-Ball and a bar with more to offer than just liquid libations. The bar is located in the front, with the game room just off to the side of the main area. Expect friendly bartenders and reasonably priced drinks; the beers range from Stag and Busch to local craft selections. The interior is dark with cool lighting and delivers a decidedly retro feel. Orbit is great for a different kind of night out — challenging friends or a date to a Skee-Ball tournament. The machines do require quarters, but you can get them behind the bar. Orbit routinely hosts Skee-Ball tournaments, so check its Facebook page if you are looking to drop in casually and play. Don’t expect many food options here, but you can bring in takeout from any of the great Maplewood restaurants within walking distance.
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Henke's Tavern. | TOM H E LL AU E R
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MIMI’S SUBWAY BAR & GRILL
When you pull into the parking lot for Mimi’s Subway Bar & Grill (46 North Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-6009), your first thought will most likely be, “Where is this place?” Though the tiny cinderblock building that sits in the corner of the lot is clearly marked with the bar’s name, it looks more like an old bricked-over locksmith shop than a place to grab a beer. In fact, even after you pull on the metal doors and head inside, nothing about Mimi’s says “open.” Those doors lead down a set of stairs that could be straight out of an abandoned sports arena, but those brave enough to reach the bottom and head through another set will be transported to Ferguson’s quintessential dive bar. Mimi’s used to be a bomb shelter, so the place is literally a bunker designed to make you blissfully unaware of what’s going on outside. In the case of nuclear holocaust, that’s a plus. In the case of a Friday night of 54
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imbibing, it can get dangerous very quickly, for it’s easy to lose track of time in a place with no windows and shockingly stiff drinks. Because it’s so hidden, Mimi’s is a regular’s bar, but they are always ready to welcome new friends, so long as those newbies are cool with the fact that the county’s half-assed smoking ban has yet to reach the place. With the way the world is going these days, a cigarette just might come in handy.
BJ’S BAR AND RESTAURANT Stroll past the corner of Washington and St. Ferdinand streets during Florissant’s annual Valley of the Flowers celebration, and you just might think BJ’s Bar and Restaurant (184 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-837-7783) is the epicenter of the festivities. That’s because BJ’s knows how to throw a party — but it’s not limited to once a year. This Florissant institution has been serving thirsty bar-goers since 1955, since a time when
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the vintage Stag sign that graces the building was shiny and new. If you’ve never been, the building might look abandoned from the outside (even the window has been boarded over), but don’t that fool you. Inside, BJ’s is a lively good time with cheap beer, stiff cocktails in un-ironic Mason jars and some of the best St. Louis-style pizza you can get. Now that’s something to celebrate all year long.
BLUENOTE SPORTS BAR & GRILLE Tom Branneky knows St. Louis’ reputation as a baseball town, but that hasn’t stopped him from creating a temple to hockey at Bluenote Sports Bar & Grille (3133 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Maryland Heights; 314-298-2583). Covered in Blues memorabilia from floor to ceiling, wall to wall, and throughout every nook and cranny, Bluenote is a hockey lover’s dream — a place to gather with fellow enthusiasts to watch the game, play Blues-themed trivia or just hang out and talk about the team. About a year and a half ago, Branneky transformed what had been a long-vacant space just south of Northwest Plaza into the Bluenote, and already, the bar has garnered a reputation as the place in town to watch hockey. And though it has plenty of local fans, the bar also welcomes hockey enthusiasts from across the city eager to bleed Blue amongst friends — or relieve themselves on a Blackhawks-themed urinal.
BUNKER’S TAVERN
Belly up to the bar at Bunker’s Tavern (297 St. Francois Street, Florissant; 314-8372601), and your bartender is likely to be a wealth of important information, dishing on everything from the old whorehouse that used to be across the street to the time of day you can get the freshest
doughnuts down the road at Old Town Donuts (apparently, the answer is around 2 a.m.) It’s personal touches like these that make Bunker’s such a perennial favorite of thirsty Old Town Florissant residents, who have been patronizing it for decades. Bunker’s has that quintessential old-school bar feel to it — the sort of place where you wouldn’t dare ask to see the craft beer selection. But what it lacks in frills, it makes up for in charm, including a nice open-air patio and a large three-season room complete with pool tables and an air purifier to suck up the smoke. The only thing better than a night spent sinking shots at this classic neighborhood pub is soaking up all the Bud Lights you consumed with a couple of hot, fresh doughnuts.
MARLEY’S BAR & GRILL If you want to restore your faith in humanity, head over to Marley’s Bar & Grill (500 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-3277) on a Friday night and soak in the scene. Black and white, young and old, working class and white-collar all gather under one roof in a city whose name has become shorthand for the disconnection and tumult of our age. There’s none of that in evidence at Marley’s. Instead, the bar shows what happens when a community comes together for the simple pleasure of hanging out with family and friends. Situated at the epicenter of Old Ferguson’s main drag, Marley’s is part bar, part restaurant, part karaoke and music venue. Sitting on a barstool, swaying to a soundtrack that includes the Steve Miller Band one moment and Al Green the next, you’ll swoon over the way Marley’s offers something for everyone.
HENKE’S TAVERN If you were a junior high kid at Sacred
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Eat locals. Drink locals. Jam to locals. 736 S Broadway • St. Louis, MO 63102 broadwayoysterbar.com • (314) 621-8811 B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 57
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Heart Catholic School in the 1960s, ‘70s or ‘80s, chances are you heard the one about the kids who snuck out of recess to eat burgers at Henke’s Tavern (901 North Lafayette Street, Florissant; 314-837-1371) and then snickered about how they ate lunch at a bar. Heck, maybe you were one of those kids. Even for adults, with the youthful thrills of playing hooky gone, the Florissant institution is no less thrilling, providing an old-fashioned hole-in-the-wall place to imbibe and shoot the breeze with the same folks you ran around with as a kid. Filled with regulars who seem to know each other from their kickball days, Henke’s has the look of a small-town tavern; even in the midst of a fairly populous north county suburb, the bar looks like it was plucked straight out of a single-stoplight town. That vibe might be one reason it’s widely considered the bar in Old Town. Those burgers and gravy-covered fries coming out of the restaurant in the back don’t hurt either.
KITTY’S KORNER Sure, you’ll find the game on one of the handful of screens at Kitty’s Korner (4105 North Highway 67, Florissant; 314-741-
9770), but you’re just as likely to find the channels tuned in to NBC Sports for the Mecum Auctions — and one of the bar’s regulars narrating the event like he’s calling plays in the ninth inning of Game Seven. Between him, the American Legion signs and the pirate ship made from old Budweiser cans that sits on a shelf behind the bar, Kitty’s Korner has a proud blue-collar feel to it. Fireball and Seagram’s 7 occupy a place of honor on the back bar and Skynyrd plays from the jukebox — would you expect anything less from a self-described hole-in the-wall on Florissant’s deep north side? What might surprise you, however, is the impressive trophy collection that surrounds the bar’s two pool tables. Apparently, the “Kitty Krushers,” the bar’s long reigning all-women’s pool team, comprised some serious sharks, and you can find numerous awards and photos occupying a place of honor, keeping a watchful eye over regulars in training hoping for a piece of that glory — or at least a clean shot and a cold one.
THE WAITING ROOM If you want to understand the fierce loyalty that regulars of the Waiting Room
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(10419 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann; 314-890-8333) feel toward their beloved bar, consider this: They love it so much, they paid for its signage when it first opened. That was 2008, the year that Jimmy and Shannon Nichols took a chance on a nondescript strip mall, converting a storefront into a blue-collarmeets-biker-meets-punk bar. Might sound like a no-brainer in south city, but in this airport-adjacent part of north county, it was a real roll of the dice. The Nichols’ gamble paid off, though: In the last ten years, the Waiting Room has become a fixture in its community. That’s why patrons were so worried when the Nichols announced earlier this year that they were looking to sell the place to focus on their daughter and other interests. Fortunately, they found the best possible buyers: Steve and Shelly Dachroeden of the Silver Ballroom. It’s a fitting transfer of power considering that one of the best things about the Waiting Room is its membership in the Silver Ballroom’s pinball league. The Waiting Room is still working out the details of that transition, but there is no doubt the Nichols are leaving their beloved bar in good hands. They would want no less for the patrons
who have become their family.
YESTERDAY’S BAR & GRILL If you happen to drive by Yesterday’s Bar & Grill (4412 Woodson Road, Woodson Terrace; 314-423-5677) the first Saturday of the month between April and October, don’t fret. You haven’t stepped into a time machine and ended up in a bygone era like Marty McFly in Back to the Future. Instead, you have simply stumbled upon Yesterday’s monthly Car Cruise. This throwback gathering of hot rods and vintage tunes is only part of Yesterday’s old-school charm. The Woodson Terrace bar has that classic, neighborhood feel, where regulars hold court and the bartenders ready their orders before they’ve even made it to the barstools. Black-and-white photos of old Hollywood stars line the wall above the mirror-backed bar that glistens with the twinkle of white-strung lights. It’s the kind of bar that existed before anyone called a cocktail “craft” and will stick around years after that modifier has been retired — not that anyone at Yesterday’s is paying attention to such things. They are too busy basking in the nostalgic charm never goes out of style.
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10 ST. LOUIS BARS w GREAT FOOD By SARAH FENSKE Bars aren’t just places to drink. Some of our favorites also boast food good enough to lure the most committed teetotaler. For this list, we limited ourselves to true bars, not restaurants that also have a great drinks program. (We also ruled out breweries; that’s a list for another day.) What were we left with? Ten terrific places to drink that double as inspired eateries. Stop by for a bite to soak up the booze or make a night of it; either way, you may find a new dining destination.
SOUTHTOWN PUB A lot of bars claim they serve good food — but can you think of any where the food is impressive enough to sustain a robust catering business on the side? Southtown Pub (3707 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-833-3999) is the only one we can think of, an achievement even more impressive in that this Northampton establishment isn’t a fancy cocktail bar with big ambitions or even a bar that’s lured a top chef to run the kitchen à la Tamm Avenue Grill or the Whiskey Ring. It’s simply a bar-bar that happens to serve great food. And we mean great. 64
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It’s not just that you can soak up the booze with “Hoosier Nachos” (basically nachos topped with barbecue) or “Southtown Atomic turds” (smoked jalapeño stuffed with chorizo and cream cheese). It’s that this noisy no-frills pub is also serving some of the best barbecue in a city that’s increasingly full of above-average options. A host of sandwiches and dinner platters offer creative ways to take down your smoked meats, and we can vouch for the fact that they hold up even when you’re sober. Now there’s a feat worthy of a visit... or maybe even a catering contract.
OLIO It’s no surprise that Ben Poremba’s Isreali-inflected wine bar, Olio (1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088) serves up great food. Poremba, after all, is one of the city’s most acclaimed chefs. What might be surprising to first-time visitors, though, is just how much it retains its bar feel, even though the menu items it’s serving are good enough to carry a restaurant. Located in a renovated Standard Oil filling station, the quarters are close, lending an intimate vibe. Some-
The Cut at Fortune Teller Bar | M AB EL S U EN
thing about the mood here makes us want to have another glass of wine and start spilling our intimate secrets — and isn’t that what all great wine bars should do? Poremba’s food isn’t cheap (we’re guessing no one else in St. Louis could get away with charging $14 for hummus), but the quality underpins the pricing (that hummus, we’ll have you know, is studded with almonds, pine nuts and even braised lamb shoulder). Grab a seat at the bar for “spritz hour” and tuck into a platter of mezze, and with or without libations, you’re sure to be feeling fine.
TAMM AVENUE GRILL A low-key bar in the heart of Dogtown, Tamm Avenue Grill (1227 Tamm Avenue, 314-461-4902) would be worth visiting even without the amazing burger joint embedded within. But with that? Total St. Louis destination. Via a window in the back of the bar, Mac’s Local Eats offers not only some of the tastiest burgers in the city, but some of the most humanely raised ones. Proprietor Chris McKenzie got his start championing local farmers
through the CSA Mac’s Local Buys, and he’s remained committed to its principles even though he’s now running the kitchen at a bar just as popular with south-city bros as consciously ethical eaters. But hey, what his customers don’t know can help them .... and take a few important steps towards healing the Earth too. Care only about taste, not doing good? You’ll still be thrilled with Mac’s perfectly seared beef and “Zip Fries,” which are coated in Red Hot Riplet dust for a truly inspired snack.
SUPER’S BUNGALOW
Is Super’s Bungalow (5623 Leona Street) a great bar that just so happens to host an amazing barbecue joint? Or is the Stellar Hog an amazing barbecue joint that happens to be embedded within a great bar? It’s hard to care when the outcome is as good as the operation here. When pitmaster Alex Cupp bought the nearly 90-year-old dive bar a few years back, regulars must have worried — but rather than change Super’s down-home vibe, Cupp’s Stellar Hog-branded barbecue has BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 65
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instead given us even more reason to visit. The Holly Hills institution still has the same old Budweiser Clydesdales trotting in a glass globe above the bar; the only difference is that now they’re joined by a pig motif too. Take a seat on the patio or in the surprisingly large dining area to the side of the bar and order up a plate of Cupp’s terrific barbecue. What could be better prep for a night of heavy drinking at one of St. Louis’ finest establishments?
DRESSEL’S PUBLIC HOUSE One of the city’s most charming pubs, Dressel’s Public House (419 North Euclid Avenue, 314-361-1060) also happens to be serving one of its tastiest food menus, as anyone who’s sampled the justifiably famous pretzel here can surely attest. (Dunked in the accompanying Welsh rarebit, it’s so good you simply won’t be able to stop until you’ve eaten the whole thing.) This place is a bit more up-market than, say, Southtown Pub or Super’s Bungalow, but it remains a bar at its core; you’ll be equally comfortable tucking into steak frites or getting your buzz on at the 70
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bar, something few restaurants can say. In the summer, you can enjoy the surprisingly large sidewalk seating area on Euclid. The winter, however, is when Dressel’s is at its best, as the cozy environs and two fireplaces provide a perfect backdrop to the stick-to-your-ribs farm-to-table fare. Unusually for a bar, the kids’ menu is also a good one.
THREE SIXTY
Three Sixty (1 South Broadway, 314-2418439) could easily get away with crappy food or snobby service. After all, when you’ve got a view this grand — as the name suggests, it’s 360 degrees of dazzling vistas, encompassing the river, downtown and beyond — you don’t need to provide much in the way of hospitality; the beautiful people will come regardless. And since when do beautiful people even eat? Fortunately, though, the team at LHM has been unwilling to relax their standards even when they could easily do so, and so every time we’ve visited, we’ve found ourselves struck not only by the friendly service but also by cuisine that
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Join us at Balaban’s!
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The original craft cocktail bar
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of Award Winning Cocktails
Rotating Seasonal Drink Menu Non Smoking 5213 CHIPPEWA ST SAINT LOUIS, MO 63109 (314) 832-2211 B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 73
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genuinely dazzles. Tuck into a tuna poke bowl or a plate of oysters at the bar on a summer night, and you’ll swear you’re in paradise. Vegetarians won’t suffer here, either; unusually for St. Louis, close to half the menu items are fair game even if you don’t believe in animals dying so you can eat.
CRAFTED Located in Tower Grove East, Crafted (3200 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-865-3345) is that rare establishment where the Bar Rescue pixie dust really worked — perhaps because it never needed that much rescuing in the first place. Jon Taffer’s 2016 visit transformed Van Goghz Martini Bar & Bistro into Crafted, a neighborhood favorite offering cocktails that are served in a French press. The gimmick is probably not necessary, but it is a lot of fun, and the combinations the bartenders have concocted are so tasty, we’d drink them out of a red Solo cup if that’s what Crafted was utilizing. In addition to that, Crafted offers a well-executed menu of bar food that’s much more creative than you normally see in south city — think edamame ravioli, flash-fried brussels sprouts and goat cheese balls. The place also serves an excellent brunch.
THE BLACK THORN PUB & PIZZA How good is the pizza at the Black Thorn Pub & Pizza (3735 Wyoming Street, 314-776-0534)? Would you believe it if we told you that famously impatient St. Louisans routinely wait more than an hour for it — or that people who don’t even like bars (yes, such people exist) have been queuing up at this dive bar for two decades just to eat it? Both things are true. Now, to like the food here, you need to like deep-dish pan pizza, which isn’t for everybody. But if that’s your jam, and you’re into some seriously heavy food, you
might as well join the club. Nine-tenths of St. Louis can’t be wrong, can it?
FORTUNE TELLER BAR
Cherokee Street’s Fortune Teller Bar (2635 Cherokee Street, 314-250-6007) previously experimented with hosting a sandwich shop inside, but it found its perfect complement when it opened its doors to Ari Jo Ellis’ sausage shop the Cut. A badass chef whose métier is whole-animal butchery, Ellis is serving some of the city’s best sausages out of a kitchen no bigger than a Ladue walk-in closet. You may find after a few beers that nothing tastes better than the bratwurst and meatballs that have become her calling card. If not, she’s generally also got a delicious special or two — using the whole animal means finding ways to prepare whatever comes into her possession.
THE GRAMOPHONE
When the Gramophone (4243 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-5700) announced in 2015 it was switching gears from being a music club to a “sandwich pub,” music fans were seriously bummed out — but they shouldn’t have been. After all, anyone can host live music. It takes real skill to make great sandwiches ... and the team beyond this bar has just that. The steadily increasing roster of options here are simply spectacular, with creative combinations of quality ingredients piled high. Add a side of loaded mashed potatoes or broccoli salad, and you’ve got a solid base to soak up no small amount of booze. Which is a good thing, since the vibe here remains distinctly conducive to drinking. Grab a seat on the patio or in one of the two large rooms facing Manchester and give in to the great selections of both food and drink. B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 75
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Tucker’s Place soulard HAPPY HOUR
(Happy Hour Specials in the bar area only) Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm
DRINK SPECIALS: • $2.00 Domestic Bottles and Select Drafts
FOOD SPECIALS •Half Priced Pizza & Appetizers 1 per person
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Tucker’s Place south HAPPY HOUR
Happy Hour Specials in the bar area only
DRINK SPECIALS: •Domestic Longnecks $2.75 •Domestic Draft Pints $2.25 Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm
FOOD SPECIALS •Half Priced Pizza & Selected Appetizers Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm •Half Priced Burgers Monday night only 6-10pm
PATIO OPEN! Voted #1 Steakhouse 21 years in a row! 1998-2018 RFT Readers Polls TUCKER’S PLACE SOUTH 314-845-2584 3939 UNION RD. E S T.
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Tucker’s Place West HAPPY HOUR
Happy Hour Specials in the bar area only
DRINK SPECIALS: •All Domestic Beer Bottles $2.50 •Bud Light & Killians Draft $2.50 glass or $6 pitcher •$1.00 off all other drafts •Rail Liquor drinks $4.00 •KJ Chardonnay & Sterling Cab both $5.00 glass Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm Mon & Wed 8pm-12am Tues & Thurs 9pm-12am Sun 9pm-11pm
FOOD SPECIALS •Half Priced Appetizers & Pizza Mon-Fri 3-6pm/Tues & Thurs 9-10pm •Half Priced Burgers & Pizza Mon & Wed 8-10pm
PATIO OPEN! Voted #1 Steakhouse 21 years in a row! 1998-2018 RFT Readers Polls WEST COUNTY • 636-227-8062 1 Blk. East of Hwy. 141 • 14282 MANCHESTER RD. E S T.
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g HAVE
g
DRINK,
WILL
TRAVEL
THESE 12 BARS WILL TAKE YOU AROUND THE WORLD, NO PASSPORTS NEEDED By CHERYL BAEHR With a stiff enough cocktail, an evening of imbibing can take you places you’ve never even dreamed of. A truly transportive experience, however? That is an art form, crafted by skilled bar owners who use everything from design to drinks to music to create a mood that takes you on a journey without leaving your barstool. The following bars do just that — they embody the spirit of another place in every last detail, taking their guests on a trip around the world. These are not caricatures, but authentic homages to the watering holes you’d find in the countries they represent. In fact, most of the bars listed below are owned by expats on a mission to create a nostalgic slice of home, no matter how far away that may be. From Brazil to South Korea, from Nigeria to the Netherlands, a trip overseas is closer than you think if you can slow down for a moment and allow yourself to get carried away. A few caipirinhas don’t hurt either.
Scotland
When Scotland native Alastair Nisbet opened the Scottish Arms (8 South Sarah Street, 314-535-0551) in 2005, he wanted to 82
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create a home away from home. More than a decade later, he hasn’t just succeeded in that goal — he’s made all of us feel like Scots in the process. As the area’s most authentic Scottish bar, Scottish Arms naturally has the city’s best Scotch selection. What’s more noteworthy, however, is what comes with that extensive list: warm ambience, a knowledgeable staff and genuine hospitality. And yes, you will most likely see some tartan and hear some bagpipes during your visit, but the Scottish Arms is not at all a cliche. If you see someone in a kilt, chances are it’s a true Scotsman who will be more than happy to spend as much time as you like talking about tasting notes. It might even be Nisbet himself, hanging out in his home away from home and helping you make it yours as well.
Brazil
Step into Brasilia (3212 South Grand Boulevard, 314-322-1034), and the hustle and bustle of South Grand give way to the soothing sounds of bossa nova, “the Girl from Ipanema” gently cooing from the speakers roughly every third track. Jorge Carvalho, who owns the restaurant and bar with his wife, Rachel, wanted to
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create a space that brought him back to his native Brazil — not the samba-inflected Rio de Janeiro that typifies the South American country to outsiders, but the tranquil, pastoral villages of his youth. In these places, he says, you can relax at a casual bar, tossing back caipirinhas as acoustic guitar and gentle percussion encourage you to laze away the day. He’s captured that scene perfectly some 4,600 miles from home, with a low-key vibe brought to life by palm tree murals, fresh citrus on the bar, and candlelight that dances from the windows and glassware. The scene makes you exhale just a little deeper when you sink into your seat — and transports you a million miles away.
South Korea
If you want to down shots of soju and make an idiot out of yourself singing “Baby One More Time” to a bar full of complete strangers, you can do that at Koreana (13457 Olive Boulevard, Chesterfield; 314-323-6610). However, if you prefer to bring out your inner songstress in the privacy of your own room, surrounded by
only close family and friends, the west county karaoke bar has you covered, too. Known for its private rooms, outfitted with comfy couches and big screen televisions, Koreana offers the sort of authentic karaoke experience you’d get at a lounge in Seoul. The songbook spans ten languages, and if you aren’t entertained by the music, you surely will be by the quirky videos that accompany the selections. The experience is like having friends over in the comfort of your own home — only with a full bar, wait staff and delicious potstickers for snacking. But don’t fret; if exhibitionism is part of karaoke’s allure for you, you can still get down at the bar. It just takes a little more liquid courage.
Mexico
No, it’s not the jumbo-sized margaritas playing tricks on you. Indeed, across the bar, that’s a black lava rock cauldron, bubbling over with chicken, shrimp, chorizo, steak and cactus that some lucky patron is tearing into as if his life depended on it. If there is an award for BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 83
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the craziest, most over-the-top bar food, Mi Lindo Michoacan (4534 Gravois Avenue; 314-224-5495) takes the prize for its molcajete, a traditional Mexican dish named for traditional stone dish it’s served out of, which keeps the contents piping hot. However, there is more to this Bevo Mill neighborhood watering hole than the food coming out of its kitchen. The massive, circular brick bar in the center of the space provides the ideal vantage point for taking in the live music that is a regular draw on the weekends — and of course, the lively patrons who, intoxicated by the tunes (or perhaps micheladas), hop off their stools and dance. Mi Lindo Michoacan is not a caricature of a Mexican bar, but rather a bar that’s authentic enough to garner support from the area’s growing Latin community — and a place not to be missed if you want a glimpse of the new Bevo.
Germany
There is a nasty rumor going around that the flip of a simple light switch cranks the
Bevo Mill into action. The suggestion makes sense, but if you’ve spent any amount of time at Das Bevo (4749 Gravois Avenue, 314-832-2251), anything short of a clan of lederhosen-clad Bavarians hand cranking the windmill while guzzling steins of doppelbock would seem anticlimactic. The iconic restaurant, event space, bar and biergarten was a spectacle even before its stunning rehab in 2017, but now it is bigger and better than ever, offering a nonstop German-inspired party that makes every day seem like Oktoberfest. Inside is a bierhall straight out of the old country — soaring ceilings, wooden rafters, a massive stone fireplace and enough antlers to make it seem like Gaston could walk through the doors any minute. The outdoor biergarten is equally impressive, providing a spot for throwing back liters of beer while listening to live music (and not necessarily an oompah band, either). It’s a raucous time, but don’t get too wild and climb aboard the vintage firetruck that’s parked on the patio. They don’t want you to get that crazy here — or do they? B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 87
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Bosnia
Don’t let the name — or the espresso machine slow-pouring shots of coffee at the crack of dawn — fool you. Vivid Café (6025 Gravois Avenue, 314-835-7573) is much more than a coffee shop. A watering hole for the Bosnians who have called the Bevo Mill neighborhood home since the 1990s, Vivid boasts a cohort of regulars who might raise an eyebrow when someone not known around the neighborhood (in other words, someone who’s not Bosnian) walks through the door. That, of course, assumes they can see you through the cloud of smoke that perpetually hangs in the air. It’s not that the bar is unwelcoming — it’s that it is so authentic and caters to the locals so well that you might feel as if you have stepped through a wormhole into Sarajevo. This may seem intimidating at first, the way it would be intimidating to walk into a bar in another country and order a drink. But in some ways, that’s precisely what Vivid Café is: a true Bosnian bar that happens to be in the middle of south city, no passport required.
The Netherlands
Every four years, we out-of-touch Americans feel compelled to get with the program and pretend to care about what we insist on calling “soccer.” If you head over to Amsterdam Tavern (3175 Morganford Road, 314-772-8224), however, you’d think the World Cup is every day. As St. Louis’ undisputed football bar, the raucous Amsterdam Tavern makes you feel as if you have stepped into the eponymous Dutch city — or any other European capital, for that matter — where all eyes are glued to matches lighting up the bar’s many television screens. Now in its tenth year, the Tower Grove South bar has made a name for itself not just as a
place to watch the game, but as the place for football fans to gather with a community of like-minded individuals — people willing to get up at the crack of dawn to cheer on their team either inside or on the bar’s massive outdoor patio. Forget baseball; from the screams, cheers, tears and general tomfoolery here, you just might be convinced that St. Louis is a soccer town after all.
Italy
Your status as a regular at Milo’s Tavern (5201 Wilson Avenue, 314-776-0468) boils down to one simple thing: Do you know how to pronounce the name of the game being bowled out back? Call it “botch-ee,” and the staff will smile politely with the knowledge that you are clearly a first-timer. Refer to the quintessential Italian pastime by its true pronunciation, “boe-chee,” and you’ll get a nod to proceed to the courts out back. They are serious about their bocce ball around these parts, not that you’d expect anything less from a lively watering hole smack-dab in the middle of the Hill. It’s not that Milo’s is simply a bar on the Hill — it’s the bar on the Hill, a drinking establishment that has been catering to the area’s Italian-American community for more than a century. It’s seen many changes over those years; in fact, the bocce courts weren’t even put in until the late ‘80s. But one thing has remained constant: Milo’s is a warm, neighborhood sort of place, a bar you visit not to get drunk, but to unwind amongst three generations of patrons — the sort of place where, even though they’ll notice, they don’t actually care if you mispronounce the game. They’re just happy you came.
Russia
Growing up in Moscow, Tatyana Telnikova was constantly inundated with BAR GUIDE 2018 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 91
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Propaganda. | FLICKR/PAU L S AB LEM AN
negative messaging about the West. After moving to St. Louis at the age of sixteen, she found the tables turned, her homeland vilified even after the Cold War came to a close. That push-and-pull of persuasive messaging inspires her Cherokee Street bar, Propaganda (2732 Cherokee Street, 314-769-9696), where Telnikova is on a mission to use drink to tear down those walls. Outfitted in nostalgic Russian-inflected décor — red walls, Soviet-era posters and artwork — Propaganda aims to be less a bar and more a communal drinking experience, an aspiration embodied in the group vodka toasts the bartenders facilitate every night at 10 p.m. Now that’s Russian interference we can get behind.
Nigeria (and Jamaica) African Palace (4005 Seven Hills Drive, Florissant; 314-921-4600) is not just north county’s bastion of authentic West African cuisine. On Friday and Saturday nights, the place is converted into a soundstage for Caribbean and African beats. Known for its regular “Reggae
Fridays,” African Palace hosts the area’s top reggae DJs — a must-visit for an enthusiast of the genre looking for the sort of club experience you’d get in Kingston. Saturdays are dedicated to Afrobeat, with a little hip-hop thrown into the mix, for a nod to owners Kike and Koffo Osun’s Nigerian heritage. Such an authentic slice of Africa may seem unexpected coming from a tucked-away spot in a Florissant strip mall, but once you step foot inside, the transportive experience will persuade you that you are, in fact, in one of the city’s most exciting international watering holes.
France
Close your eyes and picture what the finest drinking salon in the 7th arrondissement should look like: sumptuous, velveteen couches, luxe paintings in gilded frames, rich red walls, ornate candelabras and a chandelier that would make Marie Antoinette envious. Now imagine that the bar is not in the center of Paris, but on Wydown Boulevard, right in the middle of Clayton. Leave it to restauraB A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 95
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teur extraordinaire Zoe Robinson, whose penchant for design is rivaled only by her talented kitchen staff, to take a storefront in the middle of the heartland and turn it into an establishment more Parisian than Paris. Bar Les Freres (7637 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-725-8880) oozes elegance and sophistication, the undisputed place in St. Louis to stop for a Champagne nightcap if you are feeling especially sultry. Robinson once said her goal is to make Bar Les Freres a place where the evening will end in an amorous encounter for its patrons. If you get through your digestif without the tingle of anticipation, you should check your pulse.
Ireland
Bar Les Freres. | JE NN IFER SILV ER BE RG
Guinness is flowing, hands are clapping to the sound of the fiddle and the scent of corned beef fills the air. It’s an intoxicating scene, enough to make you wonder
whether you’ve hit your head and somehow woken up in Galway. In fact, you are in the middle of St. Louis’ quintessential Irish pub. For 40 years, John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden (1200 Russell Boulevard, 314-776-8309) has been giving local bar-goers an authentic taste of Ireland, even though it sits in the midst of St. Louis’ French quarter. Dimly lit and filled with exposed brick and dark wood, McGurk’s sprawling interior offers the preeminent place to experience a pint this side of the Emerald Isle — unless it’s a lovely autumn day, in which case you should enjoy that pint next to the fountain on McGurk’s stunning courtyard. It’s no wonder Esquire named this icon of the St. Louis bar scene one of the best bars in America. Plunk it down in the middle of Dublin, and we’d probably be calling it one of the best bars in Ireland.
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THESE 10 BARS WILL USHER YOU y MORNING GLORY By DANIEL HILL Whether you’re a third-shifter stumbling blearily into the sunlight or a committed drinker just looking to escape your day with a little hair of the dog, St. Louis has plenty of bars to get you lit well before noon. Here are our ten favorites.
THE TAVERN AT CLIFTON HEIGHTS Sophie’s Place may be no more, but the Tavern at Clifton Heights (2817 Watson Road, 314-645-4033), which recently opened in its lon gtime home, hasn’t altered much since the place changed hands two months ago: same bartenders and same pool tables, free on Sundays and Mondays. In fact, the new owners haven’t even swapped out the exterior sign ... the better for us to know where to go for early-morning drinks. Yes, the place still opens at 6 a.m. under its new management. And people still come out; a line of regulars is often waiting for the doors to open in the mornings. With the bar’s unfussy atmosphere and dirt cheap drinks, it’s easy to see why. Pro tip: If you’re still around at 11 a.m. when Adam’s Smokehouse, the barbecue spot next 100
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door, opens, get in there and have yourself a meal. You won’t regret it. The Tavern at Clifton Heights is open Monday through Saturday from 6 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to midnight.
RED’S EIGHTH INNING Being a firefighter seems like a really cool job, except for that whole “running directly into a burning building” thing — hard pass on that. But the part where you just hang around at the firehouse all day shooting the shit with firefighters? That part we can get into. And that’s a big reason Red’s Eighth Inning (6412 Michigan Avenue, 314-353-1084) is so great. Ostensibly a sports bar, this Carondelet watering hole is the go-to spot for many of St. Louis’ current and former firemen, with dozens of helmets, antique fire extinguishers and old fire hoses lining its walls. Get all the fun of hanging out with firefighters — who truly have the best stories — without any of the fire! And with a happy hour that starts at 6 a.m. and runs to 6 p.m., you don’t have to wait until the sun goes down to do it. Red’s Eighth Inning is open Monday
The Tavern at Clifton Heights. | DAN IEL H ILL
through Saturday from 6 a.m. until 1:30 a.m., and is closed on Sundays.
CHARLACK PUB Some who day-drink do so because they keep odd hours or work third shifts, relegating their R&R to the hours when the sun is up. Some, however, do it purely for the love of the game. That’s the case for many of the old north-county dive bars, often patronized in the morning hours by older drinkers who’ve earned the right to call themselves pros. Charlack Pub (8334 Lackland Road, Overland; 314-423-8119) is no different — its regulars just wake up earlier. At 6 a.m. the scene is considerably more serene than at night, when the rock bands take the stage and the motorcycles fill the parking lot, but you’ll still have good company in the form of an old-timer or three who decided to start early. Learn from them, and one day you may have what it takes to
become them. Charlack Pub is open from 6 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday and from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Monday. The bar is closed on Sundays — even professionals need their day of rest.
CALECO’S BAR & GRILL Located more or less in the shadow of the Arch, Caleco’s Bar & Grill (101 North Broadway, 314-421-0708) offers an unfussy yet refined drinking experience. This downtown spot offers a full menu in addition to its alcoholic options, including a delicious “St. Louis Breakfast Pizza” that counts egg among its toppings. Upon entry guests are greeted by a large golden eagle, and the expansive dining room, which encircles the bar itself, features two aquariums, plenty of TVs and even a large red, white and blue missile warning “don’t mess with the U.S.” The bar is at its busiest during baseball games, and you may have the B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 10 1
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place mostly to yourself in a.m. hours. Watch the sun rise over the Mississippi, then start your day with some cocktails. Caleco’s is open from 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. seven days a week.
HAMMERSTONE’S Even when the sun is beating down outside, Hammerstone’s (2028 South Ninth Street, 314-773-5565) maintains its darkened bar cool. That’s thanks to the shades on the windows, sure, but it’s also a testament to the Soulard watering hole’s relaxed atmosphere and blues-bar vibe. Hammerstone’s is the perfect place to put back a few cold ones and hide from the world, but with its friendly bartenders and amiable clientele, it’s a great place to strike up a conversation with a stranger as well. And with a sizable patio just out back, you can brighten your drinking experience with a little sunshine too, if that’s your thing. Hammerstone’s is open Monday through Friday from 6 a.m. to
1:30 a.m., Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to midnight.
1764 PUBLIC HOUSE With its marble bar top, high-backed leather barstools and smooth blues cuts playing on the stereo, 1764 Public House (39 North Euclid Avenue, 314-405-8221) is one of the swankier spots in St. Louis to get sloshed in the daytime — but it’s also one of the best. That’s especially considering the fact that the Central West End spot even has an early-morning happy hour to get you started right. From 7 to 10 a.m. Monday through Friday the bar offers half-price draft beer, $4 shots of Four Roses, half-price spritzes and $5 bloody marys. Showed up too late, or maybe money isn’t an object? Try the bar’s stellar Moscow Mule, made with Belvedere Vodka and priced at $10. Or go big and order the Mondo Mule at $105; at 168 ounces it is intended to serve several people, but with a little dedication you B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 10 3
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can surely polish it off alone. Just head to the patio, bask in the sunlight and get to work. 1764 Public House is open 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. on Saturday and 9 a.m. to midnight on Sunday.
KINGSIDE DINER Situated just across from the World Chess Hall of Fame, Kingside Diner (4651 Maryland Avenue, 314-454-3957) is for the strategic — especially those strategizing a plan to get stumbling drunk before the noon hour. A favored place for third-shift medical professionals working down the street at BJC, the Kingside Diner offers a full breakfast menu and drink specials for early-morning visitors: From 6 to 10 a.m. it serves up $2 Bud and Bud Light, $5 well drinks and house wines, and $6 bloody marys and mimosas. The eatery even has a deal where if you purchase nine drinks during happy hour you get the tenth on free. Frankly that seems like a challenge, but one the dedicated day drinker is surely up for — just make sure to strategize yourself a ride home. Kingside Diner is open Monday through Sunday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.
THE TROPHY ROOM Southwest Garden watering hole the Trophy Room (5099 Arsenal Street, 314-664-4810) is the stuff of legend, and no small part of its mythology is the fact that it’s open for 21 hours nearly every day. The storefront bar starts serving suds at 6 a.m. and also offers a pool table and Keno and Golden Tee and everything else that makes a dive bar great. Best of all, it’s a judgment-free zone: Whether you’re a third-shifter looking to unwind after a hard night’s work or just a dedicated alcoholic getting started early, the Trophy Room’s colorful regulars are more than happy to raise a pint with you.
The Trophy Room is open Monday through Saturday from 6 a.m. to 3 a.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m.
STAN’S BAR Sure, you could sit around your house in the early-morning hours watching the Game Show Network on the couch while putting back endless whiskey-and-cokes — but that would get kind of lonely, wouldn’t it? No worries, just head to Stan’s Bar (5007 Macklind Avenue, 314-481-9990). The Southampton watering hole boasts several TVs behind the bar, often employed to provide your daily Family Feud fix. In keeping with the dive-bar vibe, the prices are cheap and the locals are friendly, and with three pool tables and two dart boards, you just may find yourself a participant in some games rather than just a spectator. Stan’s Bar is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to midnight.
POP’S NIGHTCLUB Time has no meaning at Pop’s Nightclub (401 Monsanto Avenue, Sauget, Illinois; 618-274-6720). Lesser bars may concern themselves with things like “closing time” and “last call” — not Pop’s. Open 24 hours every day but Sunday, this Sauget spot is for day-drinkers and night-drinkers and everything-in-betweeners. Your favorite St. Louis bar closes at 3 a.m., but you’re still thirsty? Not a problem; just point your car east. Still got money in your pocket after the nearby strip clubs close? Pop’s will take it off your hands and replace it with something sudsy and cold. On Sundays the staff shoos people out at 10 a.m. and the doors don’t reopen until 11 p.m., but luckily St. Louis has plenty of bars that are open during those hours. Pop’s, meanwhile, will be there for you when those bars aren’t. B A R G U I D E 2 0 1 8 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 10 5
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We asked you to give us your picks for the best bars in 36 categories, and you didn’t let us down. Here are your choices for the best places in St. Louis for everything from getting laid to being left alone. BEST BAR IN SOUTH CITY (SOUTH OF I-44)
JOHN D. MCGURK’S 1200 Russell Boulevard | 314-776-8309
HESSLER’S PUB AND GRILL 11804 Tesson Ferry Road | 314-842-4050
BEST BAR IN WEST COUNTY 136 Hilltown Village Center, Chesterfield 636-537-1970
BJ’S BAR AND RESTAURANT 184 W. Washington Street, Florissant 314-837-7783
SHAMROCKS PUB AND GRILL 4177 Veterans Memorial Parkway, St. Peters 636-939-2000
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BEST BAR JUST OUTSIDE ST. LOUIS
FAST EDDIE’S BON AIR BEST BAR PATIO
GOOD TIMES SALOON
BEST BAR IN ST. CHARLES COUNTY
110
THE GRAMOPHONE
1530 E. 4th Street, Alton, Illinois 618-462-5532
BEST BAR IN NORTH COUNTY
200 N. Main Street, Dupo, Illinois 618-286-9693
BEST BAR IN THE CENTRAL CITY (NORTH OF 1-44, SOUTH OF DELMAR) 4243 Manchester Avenue | 314-531-5700
HARPO’S
GOOD TIMES SALOON
SHADY JACK’S 1432 N. Broadway | 314-241-4644
BEST BAR IN SOUTH COUNTY
BEST BAR IN METRO EAST
BEST BAR IN NORTH CITY (NORTH OF DELMAR)
200 N. Main Street, Dupo, Illinois 618-286-9693
BEST BAR TO BE LEFT ALONE
THE SCOTTISH ARMS 8 S. Sarah Street | 314-535-0551
BEST BAR TO BUY A ROUND OF SHOTS
FRIENDLY’S SPORTS BAR 3503 Roger Place | 314-771-2040
EAD RS H ICE
Fast Eddie’s Bon Air. | F LICK R /A IM É E K N IG H T
BEST BAR TO HANG OUT WITH BARTENDERS
BEST BAR TO DRINK ON A SUNDAY
DB COOPER’S SAFE HOUSE 6109 Gravois Avenue | 314-499-7119
BEST BAR TO PRETEND YOU’RE AT THE CLUB
PATRICK MCKEANE’S PUB 3152 Osceola Street | 314-351-2800
BEST BAR TO IMPRESS OUT-OF-TOWNERS
BROADWAY OYSTER BAR 736 S. Broadway | 314-621-8811
MANDARIN LOUNGE
BEST BAR TO MEET PEOPLE
44 Maryland Plaza | 314-367-4447
WESTPORT SOCIAL
BEST 3 A.M./ LATE NIGHT BAR
PATRICK McKEANE’S PUB 3152 Osceola Street | 314-351-2800
910 Westport Plaza Drive | 314-548-2876
BEST BAR TO PLAY GAMES
FRIENDLY’S SPORTS BAR
BEST BAR TO GET LAID
3503 Roger Place | 314-771-2040
HELEN FITZGERALD’S IRISH GRILL AND PUB
BEST BAR TO SPEND AN ENTIRE DAY IN
3650 S. Lindbergh Boulevard | 314-984-0026
FAST EDDIE’S BON AIR
BEST BAR FOOD
1530 E. 4th Street, Alton, Illinois 618-462-5532
DUKE’S 2001 Menard Street | 314-833-6686
BEST BAR WHEN YOU WANT TO SMOKE (LEGALLY)
BEST BAR FOR DAY DRINKING
FAST EDDIE’S BON AIR
PATRICK MCKEANE’S PUB
1530 E. 4th Street, Alton, Illinois 618-462-5532
3152 Osceola Street | 314-351-2800
EAD RS H ICE
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BEST DIVE BAR
BEST HOOKAH BAR
THE HIDEAWAY
SHISHA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
5900 Arsenal Street | 314-645-8822
4229 Manchester Avenue | 314-802-8773
BEST GAY BAR
JUST JOHN
BEST IRISH BAR
4112 Manchester Avenue | 314-371-1333
JOHN D. MCGURK’S 1200 Russell Boulevard | 314-776-8309
BEST BAR TO SING KARAOKE
DOUBLE D KARAOKE
BEST LIVE MUSIC
1740 S. Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood 314-961-5646
BROADWAY OYSTER BAR
BEST GENTLEMEN’S CLUB
LARRY FLYNT’S HUSTLER CLUB 5420 Bunkum Road, Washington Park, Illinois 618-874-9334
2001 Menard Street | 314-833-6686
1 S. Broadway | 314-241-8439
TRUEMAN’S SPORTS BAR 1818 Sidney Street | 314-865-5900
DUKE’S
DUKE’S
THREE SIXTY
BEST NEIGHBORHOOD BAR
BEST SPORTS BAR
BEST HAPPY HOUR
BEST HOTEL BAR
736 S. Broadway | 314-621-8811
2001 Menard Street | 314-833-6686
BEST WINE BAR
SASHA’S ON SHAW
4069 Shaw Boulevard | 314-771-7274
EAD RS H ICE
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