Short Orders

[SIDE DISH]

Juniper’s Dani Leiran

Cooks Without

Limits Written by CHERYL BAEHR

For Dani Leiran, cooking was always her refuge. As a teenager, she’d find herself in the kitchen any time she was overwhelmed or stressed, and it always made her feel better. However, it wasn’t until her high school guidance counselor intervened that she realized it could provide her with an answer to a question she’d been struggling with for some time.

“It was my senior year in high school, and I needed to decide on what I wanted to do with my life,” Leiran recalls. “It was April, and I was going to graduate in May, and I needed to come up with something, but nothing was catching me. My guidance counselor mentioned someone that was going to culinary school, and it just clicked. I was like, ‘Yes, that’s totally it. That’s what I want to do.’” Now sous chef at Juniper (4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696), Leiran’s career in the kitchen seems like it was always meant to be. However, as a kid growing up in northeast Iowa, cooking was never really a part of her upbringing, unless she was the one doing it. Still, when she looks back, she sees that although her mom was never really a big cook, she inspired Leiran with her work ethic. Leiran realized just how important this was the moment she began culinary school; though the work was hard and the days were long, she found herself thriving in the environment and living up to the pressure. Leiran’s culinary school, Kirkwood Community College in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, provided a great Dani Leiran is the sous chef at Juniper in the Central West End. | ANDY PAULISSEN

education for her, and she was able to hone her hospitality skills by working at its aɚliated hotel and restaurant. After graduation, she worked at a New Americanstyle restaurant and then a country club, but no matter where she was, there was a common thread. “The moment I came to it, I realized that I love pastry,” Leiran says. “I love decorating and the artistic side of it — shaping them, making them look pretty. Plus, they are the last thing people taste, so if they are the best part of the meal, that’s what people take away from the experience.”

Leiran was enjoying professional success in Cedar Rapids when a group of friends told her they were moving to St. Louis, and she decided to join them. She saw the move as a chance to live in a community that had a much larger independent restaurant scene, and she longed to be in a place where she could be more creative.

She found both of those qualities in Juniper the moment she walked in the door as a diner. Instantly, she was charmed by the feel of the place, and her opinions were confirmed when the food began to arrive. It seemed like the perfect place not just for dinner, but for her to launch her career in St. Louis; determined to land a job there, she inquired about staging and, following that, ended up being brought on full time.

“I never thought of Southern food as my favorite or something like that, but the people there care so much about putting out good food,” she says. “Everything is homemade; it’s a labor of love. People care, and that’s what I love.”

When Leiran started at Juniper three years ago, she was put in charge of the restaurant’s pastries and prides herself on expanding its offerings. Although she loved that side of the job, she had to give up the day-to-day pastry work when she was promoted to sous chef. Leiran admits it was hard to let it go, but like the restaurant, those changes are what keep things fresh.

“I love working here because it’s not stagnant; it’s always pushing and growing,” Leiran says. “It’s ever-evolving, which is cool. I love that.”

Leiran recently took a break from Juniper’s kitchen to share her thoughts on the St. Louis restaurant scene, her impressive hair-braiding skills and why in her kitchen, nothing is off limits.

What is one thing people don’t know about you that you wish they did?

I’m really good at braiding hair! Ha. And I can swim really well also.

What daily ritual is non-negotiable for you?

Getting to the gym between four and five days a week. It gives me one hour a day to myself, helps me clear my mind and makes me feel alive, which helps me be the best version of myself at work and in life.

If you could have any superpower, what would it be?

To touch anything hot without towels and/or protection. It would be so cool to reach into an oven and grab a hot tray without any repercussions.

What is the most positive thing in food, wine or cocktails that you’ve noticed in St. Louis over the past year?

The movement of N/A drinks. It’s more than just N/A Busch;, it’s craft cocktails that allow someone who is sober, taking the month off or unable to drink due to other reasons to not feel stuck or excluded. What is something missing in the local food, wine or cocktail scene that you’d like to see?

I feel a little uncultured with this answer. I haven’t traveled to Continued on pg 30

a coast recently to see what’s progressing and happening in that sense to know what I would like to see in St. Louis. I really enjoy the progress and passion I’ve seen happening in this city since moving here two and a half years ago. It’s full of potential.

Who is your St. Louis food crush? Indo is my food crush — the place as a whole. Everyone behind Indo is so young and driven and making some serious noise with the amazing food being created, which is rightfully deserved.

Who’s the one person to watch right now in the St. Louis dining scene?

Matt McGuire and the entire team at Louie, for me personally, is always on the watch. What they do at Louie seems to be timeless. It’s a place that has kept the same menu, for the most part, with seasonal changes since they’ve opened, and it’s consistently good every time. There’s something big to be said about that.

Which ingredient is most representative of your personality?

Salt! I love salt, especially when preparing desserts. It’s used in every cuisine, dish and has no limits. I try to not limit myself to one specific kind of cooking and love learning about every kind of food and becoming more knowledgeable.

If you weren’t working in the restaurant business, what would you be doing?

I would be a barber. Working with a sharp-edged razor seems to be something of a dying art and easily forgotten in busy lifestyles. Name an ingredient never allowed in your restaurant.

I can’t say I personally have an ingredient I hate and will never allow. There are things I don’t enjoy and love, but the goal is to make food for guests to enjoy and love that shouldn’t be limited by me in that sense.

What is your after-work hangout?

I work late nights, so I generally hang out at Juniper and have a drink or go home, but I love going to Small Change on Sundays after working brunch. That place is the best.

What’s your food or beverage guilty pleasure?

Domino’s. Damn, that pizza is good every single time!

What would be your last meal on Earth?

Kounter Kulture. Omu ramen for starters followed with a tofu bibimbap, but I will happily die after eating anything from there. n

[FOOD NEWS]

Affton Food-Truck Garden to Feature 30 Awesome Local Trucks

Written by LIZ MILLER

This spring, when the 9 Mile Garden (9375 Gravois Road, Affton) food-truck park debuts in Affton, it will feature some of the very best chefs working in the St. Louis area.

In November, we learned of initial plans for 9 Mile Garden, including its intent to feature some of the area’s top food trucks for lunch and dinner six days a week. Last month came news that the food-truck garden would include the Canteen, a “modern drafthouse” that will “serve as an anchor for the outdoor entertainment district.” Earlier this month, the names of the 30 partnering food trucks were announced.

Currently, the plan is for vendors to each be on-site two days a week as well as at special events in the evenings, according to a recent release. The press statement also notes that guest trucks will vend at the garden from time to time. The food-truck garden’s opening roster is set to include the following vendors: Balkan Treat Box, Farmtruk, Seoul Taco, Guerrilla Street Food, Doggie Mac’s, Sugarfire 64, Essentially Fries, Wok and Roll, The Saucy Iguana, Ukraft, Truckeria Del Valle, Burgers STL, Wayno’s, Blues Fired Pizza, Spud Shack, The Crooked Boot, Honest to Goodness, Sedara Sweets, Zia’s On The Hill, Super Smokers, CJ’s Deli, Tastebudz Express, Heavy Smoke BBQ, Fire & Ice Cream Truck, Truck Norris, Scoops & More, Poptimism, Graze, Smokey’s Q and Twisted Tacos.

“We’re both excited and honored to have such a stellar lineup of trucks at 9 Mile Garden,” the venture’s manage food-truck garden will oer a rotating selection of food trucks for lunch and dinner six days a week. | COURTESY 9 MILE GARDEN

ing partner Brian Hardesty said in the release. “We’re bringing the best of the local food truck scene to our visitors, as well as providing a dedicated place for trucks to serve their food and grow their businesses.”

Located in Affton Plaza, a shopping center owned and operated by Seneca Commercial Real Estate, 9 Mile Garden will be the first permanent location in the area to assemble such a broad and impressive lineup of food trucks. Upcoming vendors such as Samantha Mitchell of Farmtruk and Bryan Scott of Doggie Mac’s shared their excitement and enthusiasm for the project in the release.

“Farmtruk is proud to be part of this core group of trucks at 9 Mile Garden,” Mitchell said. “This is so exciting for our city because it will provide a stable place where people can go to find their favorite trucks. Major cities all have food truck parks like this; it’s a progressive move for St. Louis.”

“This is the future of food trucks in St. Louis,” Scott said. “It’s the kind of thing I

“ It’s the kind of

thing I envisioned when I opened my truck, and it’s what will drive the popularity of food trucks over the top in St. Louis.”

envisioned when I opened my truck, and it’s what will drive the popularity of food trucks over the top in St. Louis. We all enjoy having a variety of foods in one place, and when you add in the opportunity to socialize and gather as a community, it’s a game-changer for our city. There’s nothing like it here.”

In addition to queuing up “a daily rotation of St. Louis’ best and most beloved food trucks,” 9 Mile Garden aims to be a hub for entertainment of all types, from livestreams of sporting events to live performances. In addition to public events, the park will be available to rent for private events including weddings, corporate gatherings and fundraisers. The garden’s name is inspired by “the days before streets had names or road markers, where landmarks were named for their distance from the courthouse or city center.”

Located nine miles from the Old Courthouse in downtown St. Louis, 9 Mile Garden’s name is an homage to “a time in St. Louis history when farmers would drive their harvests to an open space and line up their trucks into a formation that allowed people to walk along and choose what items interested them most. These were called ‘truck gardens,’ and Affton was known for having a high concentration of them.” n

Fuego’s Pizza

Jumps into Feraro’s Old

Space Written by MONICA OBRADOVIC

It was a horror I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. Last month, when I pulled up to my favorite pizza joint, Feraro’s Jersey Style Pizza, a sign hung in the window offering terrible news.

“Sorry, we’re closed.” Perhaps on its own this wouldn’t have been such upsetting information, but judging by the environs inside the pizzeria, the sign meant that Feraro’s was closed for good.

It may as well have been a knife to my Jersey-style-pizza-loving gut. During my early college years, Feraro’s was a haven for me and my friends. The restaurant’s inexpensive slices made me a Jerseystyle pizza fan before I even knew what Jersey-style pizza meant. I’d go after school with friends, get a delectably greasy slice with pineapple on top (haters gonna hate) and eat it folded in half like a true wannabe New Yorker.

Fortunately for south-county ’za fans, a new pizza joint will Fuego’s Pizza will soon open at 11726 Baptist Church Road. | MONICA OBRADOVIC

soon take its place. The new spot, Fuego’s Pizza (11726 Baptist Church Road, Concord; 314- 270-4100), plans to open in early March inside the hole-in-the-wall where Feraro’s once operated between a Baskin-Robbins and convenience store off of Baptist Church Road.

As construction on the new concept began, Fuego’s co-owner Dominic Galaske says he frequently spotted hungry Feraro’s customers experiencing similar mixed emotions.

“I get the pain and loss,” Galaske says, “but we’re hoping people will give us a shot, too.”

Galaske and his business partner, Chris Barker, moved into the former Feraro’s space on January 2. The pizza place will serve St. Louisstyle pizza made with a mozzarella cheese blend instead of Provel.

Fuego’s will also serve sandwiches with house-baked bread and preservative-free meat. The pizzeria’s menu will be rounded out with nontraditional dishes such as nachos and homemade beignets.

“There’s a Southwestern hint to some of what we’re doing, but it’s not really a fusion,” Galaske says. Fuego’s will offer specialty pizzas as well, such as a street taco pizza topped with al pastor and poblano peppers. The shop will also offer signature sauces such as the Fuego made with Carolina Reaper peppers and an Asian barbecue-inspired sauce called Sweet Samma Jamma.

The partners have both previously worked in the restaurant business — Galaske opened restaurants through NPC International, a Kansas-based franchisee of Pizza Hut and Wendy’s, while Barker worked at Imo’s Pizza — but Fuego’s is the first spot they’ve

opened themselves.

They’ve both had their eyes on the Feraro’s south-county location for years, Galaske says. The space has housed pizzerias for more than 60 years, including the tenant before Feraro’s, That’sa Nice’a Pizza, which now operates an outpost in Arnold. When Galaske and Barker learned that the strip-mall space was available, they jumped at the chance to take over the lease.

The Feraro’s on Baptist Church Road was the local chain’s last operating location. Two pizzerias — one in Soulard and another in the Patch neighborhood — closed in 2013 and 2017, respectively.

Jon Feraro started the Jerseythemed pizza chain with his mother, Nancy, in 2005.

“Fifteen years is a good run,” Feraro says. “I wouldn’t trade the years I was with Feraro’s for anything in the world.” He tells the Riverfront Times that he hasn’t owned the local pizza chain since 2016 when he sold it to the brand’s current owner, Ben Abel.

After Feraro’s Patch location closed in 2017, Abel told the RFT that he planned on focusing on the south-county store and wanted to expand Feraro’s with additional locations west of Sappington.

Feraro declined to comment about the future of Feraro’s and referred the RFT to speak with Abel, who is currently abroad and couldn’t immediately be reached for comment.

In the meantime, I’ll be searching for my ne[t fi[ of 1ew -erseystyle pizza in the St. Louis area and eager to try Fuego’s take on St. Louis-style ’za next month. n

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After a Six-Month Hiatus, Wellspent Brewing Co. Reopens in Midtown

Written by KRISTEN FARRAH

On February 15, the doors at Wellspent Brewing Co. (2917 Olive Street, 314-328-0505) opened for the first time since early August. The brewery’s absence was certainly felt in the St. Louis beer community — and its return was just as heralded.

In the weeks before it reopened, Wellspent’s Instagram posts were flooded with excited comments and questions about the reopening from loyal customers. Fans of the previous iteration will be happy to hear from Wellspent founder and head brewer Kyle Kohlmorgen that the brewery has retained the same laidback feel and core lineup of beers.

“Any person should be able to walk in here and feel comfortable,” Kohlmorgen says. “That’s our number one thing.”

For those familiar with the original brewpub, not much inside has changed: It still features an open concept with rows

of long, polished wooden tables in the center of the room. Baskets overflowing with board games are pressed against one wall, while corn-hole boards rest against the other. (Although Kohlmorgen might let you play the yard game inside if you ask nicely, the outdoor patio is the preferred option.)

Just past the tables, you’ll spot the bar, which currently features fifteen beer taps flanked on either side by glasses hung upside down, waiting to report for duty. Wellspent currently features five of its signature house brews alongside five new ones.

“We brew a lot of beer and we can always switch things up,” Kohlmorgen says. “Since we’re brewing more beers, we can refine the recipes and processes that we do.”

Kohlmorgen said Wellspent brews around five to eight different beers each month; all the brewing takes place directly behind the bar. Literally. Take a stroll behind the draft beer pulls and you’ll bump into giant metal tanks. Beers are then transferred to wooden barrels stored just left of the taproom.

Kohlmorgen’s beers are made with a special house culture he likens to a sourdough starter and acts as the base for most of his brews. One of Wellspent’s new beers on offer is a blackberry sour made by aging fresh blackberry puree in a wheat beer. (Yes, I definitely snuck a few sips of it after I took pictures, and as Wellspent’s blackberry sour is part of the brewery’s “On the Bright Side” collection. | KRISTEN FARRAH

someone who had never tried a sour ale before, wow, was it delicious. Super refreshing and bright, the blackberry sour was a welcome distraction from a rainy,

cloudy day.)

Although Kohlmorgen likes to keep the entire Wellspent experience under one roof, the brewery does sell a few beers by the bottle, which are all packaged and labeled by hand. Bottles of Baq 2 Baq, a dark Belgian-style ale aged in wine and brandy barrels, get a helping of purple melted wax poured over top for a dramatic and eye-catching seal.

Kohlmorgen began brewing beer in college. What started out as a hobby bubbled into waiting for the right moment to transition it to a career. A lot of patience and ten years later, Kohlmorgen and his wife, Angela, opened Wellspent in 2018. The two ran the brewery until August 2019 when they were forced to shut it down due to financial troubles. Although the doors closed, ales kept aging in the dark, waiting for a new owner. Kohlmorgen found a former customer in late 2019 who believed in Wellspent and decided to invest in the company.

Kohlmorgen says he loves the sense of community in the local beer scene, and to that end, Wellspent’s menu pays homage to the other area brewers by featuring guest pours from around town. “I couldn’t be happier with where we’re at and having the friends we do in St. Louis,” Kohlmorgen says.

The brewery is open Wednesday through Sunday with hours that vary day to day; take a peek at Wellspent’s website to learn more.  n