CAFE
19
[REVIEW]
Rise and Shine Songbird is destined to be St. Louis’ go-to for outstanding breakfast fare Written by
CHERYL BAEHR Songbird 4476 Chouteau Avenue, 314-781-4344. Thurs.-Fri. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. and Sun.-Mon. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (Closed Saturdays for the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market; closed Wednesdays.)
C
hris Meyer and Mike Miller didn’t set out to make the perfect breakfast sandwich. Really, all they wanted to do was provide a little something for people to eat after noticing the popularity of breakfast items at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, where they ran their booth, Kitchen Kulture. When they first started doing the market there were already several vendors doing breakfast, and the market seemed saturated with good options, so they focused on their prepared-food business and left the morning fare to others. However, over the years, Meyer and Miller noticed breakfast vendors dropping off one by one. Figuring that they had the following and know-how to put something together, they set out to fill the market’s breakfast void, experimenting with different ideas and trying them out on their customers week in and week out. Over time, what developed was a crowd-sourced specimen of breakfast sandwich perfection called the Combo — flawlessly, buttery-griddled sourdough, a gooey egg, applewood smoked bacon, a sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of honey — that developed such a cult following it came to define their booth. The Combo is the cornerstone of the menu at Meyer and Miller’s new restaurant, Songbird, which opened this past November in the Grove. A sister eatery to their beloved Lindenwood Park spot,
Janie’s Mill rye biscuits with house-cured salmon, The Combo sandwich and sprouted grain English muffin with turkey sausage. | MABEL SUEN
Chris Meyer, co-owner of Songbird, helped expand on breakfast-sandwich perfection. | MABEL SUEN Kounter Kulture, Songbird came to be after the pair realized that they needed a daytime-focused business that would be not only a home for their breakfast sandwich, but also an opportunity for their staff to work together and seek out new opportunities within their restaurant family. Finding the right space solidi-
fied their vision. Thanks to a regular, pre-COVID catering gig with Square in Cortex, Meyer and Miller would regularly drive through the Grove and fell in love with the more residential area just north of Manchester’s main commercial drag. When the storefront at the corner of Chouteau and Taylor avenues came open, they knew they
riverfronttimes.com
had their spot and got to work on developing their ideas as well as the space. This included their daytime-focused offerings, as well as a partnership with their longtime friends at Sump to run the restaurant’s coffee program. The COVID-19 outbreak temporarily put their plans on hold, but it also allowed Meyer and Miller time to really think through what kind of restaurant they wanted Songbird to be. After months of planning and figuring out how to navigate running a food business during a pandemic, they opened their doors for curbside service on November 28, bringing to life a soulful spot that is sure to become the city’s go-to for outstanding breakfast fare. Songbird is so successful because it evokes the easy comfort of breakfast nostalgia while maintaining Meyer and Miller’s commitment to quality, local sourcing and thoughtful touches. Easily recognizable yet inspired, the menu builds upon the popular Combo with items like a Sprouted Grain English Muffin, another outstanding breakfast sandwich that pairs a Buttonwood
MAY 5-11, 2021
Continued on pg 20
RIVERFRONT TIMES
19
