FOOD & DRINK
BEST OF ST. LOUIS years take time to chitchat with the longtime GM as he bags up to-go orders and assures them the restaurant is making it on togo business. Any thoughts to the contrary would be too much to bear; it’s hard to imagine the St. Louis dining scene without this institution. CHERYL BAEHR
BEST INDIAN
Himalayan Yeti 3515 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-354-8338
In a former life, Dipak Prasai was working in a five star kitchen at a hotel in his native epal following his training at a prestigious culinary school in India. Fast forward several years, and he’s at the helm of the south-city restaurant Himalayan Yeti, where the digs may be much more humble, but the flavors are no less world class. rasai prepares both epalese and Indian dishes, showcasing the uni ue flavors of the two countries that influenced his culinary style. Both are a testament to his skillful hand; the chola (or chana, as it’s often called) masala is a revelatory dish with layers
of cinnamon, ginger, garlic, onion and clove that come together like a beautiful symphony. ven go-to dishes like chicken tikka masala are extraordinary; its freshly milled spices and tart tomato punch a beautiful counter to the overly creamy versions so often passed off as the real deal. Prasai may no longer be working in an officially five starred establishment, but the food that comes out of his kitchen is as elegant as it gets. CHERYL BAEHR
BEST MEXICAN
Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience 15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville; 636-220-8514
Tucked into an llisville strip mall, Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience is a beacon of Mexican food based on the old family recipes of matriarch Doña María Gutiérrez Molina. This intimate restaurant, with an equally small menu, offers a positively breathtaking experience that will take you on a journey through re-
gional Mexican cuisine with dishes like rich mole ozumbeño, a chorizo-topped huarache and a version of a chimichanga called a mestizo norteño that will change your perception of the typical Te e dish. aving named the restaurant after “La Malinche,” a complex historical figure who is seen as either a traitor or the mother of modern Mexico, owner Angel JimenezGutiérrez has proudly embraced her as a symbol that recognizes both the Spanish and indigenous influences on modern e ican cuisine. t’s a fitting name for a restaurant that stands as the ultimate representation of Mexican food in the St. Louis area. CHERYL BAEHR
BEST ITALIAN
Peno Soul Food 7600 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-899-9699
In early March, Peno Soul Food owner Pepe Kehm saw the writing on the wall. Watching the discomfort rise in the regular diners who patronized his Wydown restaurant, ehm was proactive in
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meeting the COVID-19 outbreak head-on. One of — if not the — first to double down on his takeout and delivery offerings, ehm showed a prescient understanding of where things were headed and has never looked back. es, his southern talian influenced offerings are wonderful; the Sicilian style layered eggplant alone makes this restaurant worth the visit. owever, what makes eno so special is how much of an innovator ehm has been throughout the pandemic. Whether it’s encouraging his bar manager to start a charity painting initiative that raised money for the restaurant’s employees or hosting an outdoor music and food festival to benefit local musicians, ehm is always asking the question, “What can I do to help out in such difficult times is innovative spirit shines bright where there is little light. CHERYL BAEHR
BEST THAI
Thai Table 7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-449-6916
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ouis is lucky to have some
OCTOBER 14-20, 2020
RIVERFRONT TIMES
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