Food & Drink

years take time to chitchat with the longtime GM as he bags up to-go orders and assures them the restaurant is making it on togo business. Any thoughts to the contrary would be too much to bear; it’s hard to imagine the St. Louis dining scene without this institution. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST INDIAN Himalayan Yeti

3515 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-354-8338

In a former life, Dipak Prasai was worin in a fivestar itchen at a hotel in his native epal ollowing his training at a prestigious culinary school in India. Fast forward several years, and hes at the helm of the south-city restaurant Himalayan Yeti, where the digs may be much more humble, but the flavors are no less world class. rasai prepares both epalese and Indian dishes, showcasin the uniue flavors o the two countries that influenced his culinary style. Both are a testament to his skillful hand; the chola (or chana, as it’s often called) masala is a revelatory dish with layers of cinnamon, ginger, garlic, onion and clove that come toether lie a beautiul symphony. ven go-to dishes like chicken tikka masala are extraordinary; its freshly milled spices and tart tomato punch a beautiful counter to the overly creamy versions so often passed off as the real deal. Prasai may no longer be working in an ocially fivestarred establishment, but the food that comes out of his kitchen is as elegant as it gets. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST MEXICAN Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience

15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville; 636-220-8514

uced into an llisville strip mall, Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience is a beacon of Mexican food based on the old family recipes of matriarch Doña María Gutiérrez Molina. This intimate restaurant, with an equally small menu, oers a positively breathtaking experience that will take you on a journey through re-

gional Mexican cuisine with dishes like rich mole ozumbeño, a chorizo-topped huarache and a version o a chimichana called a mestizo norteño that will change your perception of the typical ee dish. avin named the restaurant after “La Malinche,” a complex historical fiure who is seen as either a traitor or the mother of modern Mexico, owner Angel JimenezGutiérrez has proudly embraced her as a symbol that recognizes both the Spanish and indigenous influences on modern eican cuisine. ts a fittin name or a restaurant that stands as the ultimate representation of Mexican food in the St. Louis area. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST ITALIAN Peno Soul Food

7600 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-899-9699 In early March, Peno Soul Food owner Pepe Kehm saw the writing on the wall. Watching the discomfort rise in the regular diners who patronized his Wydown restaurant, ehm was proactive in

meeting the COVID-19 outbreak head-on. One of — if not the — first to double down on his taeout and delivery oerins, ehm showed a prescient understanding of where things were headed and has never looed bac. es, his southerntalian influenced offerings are wonderful; the Sicilian style layered eggplant alone makes this restaurant worth the visit. owever, what maes eno so special is how much of an innovator ehm has been throuhout the pandemic. Whether it’s encouraging his bar manager to start a charity paintin initiative that raised money for the restaurant’s employees or hosting an outdoor music and ood estival to benefit local musicians, ehm is always asking the question, “What can I do to help out in such dicult times” is innovative spirit shines briht where there is little light. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST THAI Thai Table

7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-449-6916 t. ouis is lucy to have some

outstanding choices for Thai, which is probably why Thai Table stands out so much: We didn’t even know what we were missing. Chef-owner Natthinee “Joy” Teerakawanid worked in multiple professional kitchens after immigrating to the United States eight years ago but spotted a niche for a more traditional take. She now turns out versions of familiar items such as pad Thai that eschew the sickly sweetness the dish has taken on in the U.S. But she’s also introduced stunningly good curries and showstoppers you might not recognize as readily, such as Teerakawanid’s nam to bee rilled flan stea tossed in a lime vinaigrette with green onions and cilantro. In a curbside world, it’s about as good as it gets. But if you’ve decided to start eating in restaurants again, Thai Table also offers a tantalizing option for chef’s table private dinners, limited to twelve people on Tuesday evenings to maintain as much safety as possible for eating out. DOYLE MURPHY

BEST OVERALL RESTAURANT Every Damn Restaurant

In good years, crowning a best restaurant feels like an impossible, apples-and-oranges exercise. This year, it feels pointless because of the complete duress that every last restaurant in the city — nay, the world — is currently operating under thanks to the maelstrom of doom that is COVID-19. It’s not that no one is doing a good job; it’s that everyone is doing the best goddamn job that they can under such trying circumstances, having been forced to completely rethink business models and adapt overnight. For some, that means transitioning to takeout and delivery; for others, it means converting their in-person dining spaces into the safest environment possible. For still others, it’s meant shutting down completely in the hopes that this storm will pass and they can reopen in the future. Every last owner, chef, server, bartender, busser, host, cook and dishwasher is doing their absolute best to survive while still trying to fiure out a way to provide hospitality to their guests, whatever that means during a pandemic. Here is to each and every one of you who make us realize just how much dining out means to us. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST COFFEEHOUSE Northwest Coffee Roasting Company

4251 Laclede Avenue, 314-371-4600

You fall in love with Northwest Coffee Roasting before you even reach the door. On the walk toward the low-slung, block building, you’ll wander through a vast courtyard shared with the neighboring wine bar. Tables set atop crushed rock make for a perfect outdoor hangout, semi-hidden in a quiet pocket of the Central West End. The interior is spare and functionally stylish with a small number of tables in front of glasspaned garage doors and a short distance from the roasting works at the back of the shop. Jason Wilson, who has owned the business since 2012, has created an engaging space where he occasionally hosts progressive politicians for discussions. One of the few Black roasters in the country, he has adopted a mission to not only succeed in business, but build a model that shows others the joy of thriving in stereotype-busting roles. He calls it controlling the narrative — the idea that you can shape your own story. He’s done that and he maes a firstclass cup of coffee. DOYLE MURPHY

BEST DOUGHNUTS Boogyz Donuts

6951 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-354-8553

t first, amil abbar thouht that bagels would be his calling card. Having fallen in love with the classic New York style of the genre, he learned how to make an authentic version and began selling them at his brother’s gas station. However, when he noticed people were much more interested in doughnuts, he pivoted his business plan, learned how to make doughnuts and never looked back. His University City storefront, Boogyz Donuts, is a bastion of doughnut perfection. Yeastier and less greasy than the typical doughnut, Boogyz’s has a unique style that stands out from the very ood, very crowded field we’re blessed to have in St. Louis. Now that he’s expanded his offerings to include wildly popular vegan options, he’s showing that, even in the midst of a pandemic, there can still be successes in the industry with a little innovation and grit. CHERYL BAEHR

Boogyz Donuts. | COURTESY JAMIL JABBAR

BEST DESSERTS La Patisserie Chouquette

1626 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-7935

n this dumpster fire o a year, it’s become necessary to embrace the things that can bring us joy. Perhaps nowhere in town is as capable of evoking such a feeling as La Patisserie Chouquette, the elegant French bakery owned by Simone Faure. The shockingly talented pastry chef has created a seamless online platform in order to get her delectable handiwork to her customers; its only glitch is that she sells out in a snap. It’s easy to understand why. Faure’s confections — jewel-toned macarons, indulgent cream puffs, tiramisu brownies, apple galettes — are positively world class, that rare mix of both beautiful and impossibly delicious. Just try the “Darkness” — a beautifully spiraled croissant made from chocolate douh, filled with huns o chocolate, covered in chocolate sauce and sprinkled with pink Himalayan sea salt — to see for yourself why La Patisserie Chouquette is the self-care we all need right now. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST PIZZA Elmwood

2704 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-261-4708

In regular times, we’d be talking about Elmwood in terms of one of the city’s best overall restaurants, not touting its takeout pizza. However, in these anything-but-normal days, Elmwood’s impressive pivot to the pizza business is a testament to its tenacity, innovation and unyielding commitment to hospitality. You’d expect nothing less from GM/owner Chris Kelling and chef/owner Adam Altnether, two industry veterans whose impressive finedinin resumes do not necessarily bespeak that of two guys running a carryout pizza and delivery spot. However, their commitment to doing whatever it takes to survive and continue to serve their guests has resulted in a truly outstanding pie. More than an afterthought, Elmwood’s pizzas embody all that’s wonderful about the restaurant: woodfired cooin and uality ingredients that elevate a simple form. Whether it’s the classic pepperoni that reminds you of what a pepperoni pie can be or a whimsical taco pizza, Elmwood’s new incarnation is a bright spot where there could’ve been darkness. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST FOOD TRUCK Guerilla Street Food

Usually at 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, Affton Among the awful developments of the past few months have been the closures of four Guerrilla Street Food locations scattered

Sleiman “Sam” Bathani of Al-Tarboush. | JEN WEST

across greater St. Louis, leaving a new spot in Webster Groves as the Filipino-inspired foodmakers’ sole brick-and-mortar restaurant. If there was any justice, GSF would be on its way to world domination with a restaurant close by, no matter where you were. But that’s not how 2020 has played out, so we’ll take solace in knowing the pioneers of the local food truck scene are still serving some of St. Louis’ best dishes out of a mobile kitchen. And they’re just as innovative as they were nine years ago when co-owners Brian Hardesty and oel respo first introduced us to the Flying Pig, a magic combo of slow-roasted pork, poached egg and a slightly sweet, slightly spicy sauce atop jasmine rice. Hardesty is now also a managing partner o the states first ood truck park, 9 Mile Garden, which means instead of chasing GSF’s food truck all over town, you can reliably find it amon its ellow street warriors in the spacious park. We’ll take that as a victory. DOYLE MURPHY

BEST BUTCHER SHOP Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

2810 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-647-2567

Back in the early days of COVID-19, when people were hoarding toilet paper and the news was filled with stories o meat shortages because of virus outbreaks in packing plants, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions stood as a reminder of why a commitment to ethical practices and small-scale sourcing has always been the way to go. For six years now, this Maplewood butcher shop has been doing things the right way, serving its customers the absolute best, locally sourced, pasture- and humanely raised meat you can get. In doing so, it has earned a reputation as the gold standard for meat counters. All of this focus on sourcing the best does not just result in better ethics, however. At Bolyard’s you will get the tastiest, highest-quality product you can find, cut to order by eperts in the field who tae the time to listen to what you want, answer questions and steer you in the right direction. Their passion and commitment to doing things the best way possible is unparalleled — and if you’ve ever had their thick-cut pork chop, you see that it results in some damn tasty meat, too. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST RESTAURANT SERVICE Stone Soup Cottage

5809 Highway N, Cottleville; 636-244-2233 When you think of the impact COVID-19 has had on the restaurant industry, no part of the business seems more negatively impacted than fine dinin. n these carryout and curbside times when interactions with restaurants have become almost entirely

transactional, the pomp and circumstance of dining over a white tablecloth with doting servers seems like it’s from another era. How to provide hospitality in such dicult circumstances is a question that the best in the business are beating their heads against the wall to answer. However, if there is a model of how to do things as elegantly as possible, it’s the Cottage to Carriage delivery service from Stone Soup Cottage. Leave it to Carl and Nancy McConnell, the pair behind the area’s best restaurant, period, to have fiured out how to give diners the most dignified taeout eperience possible. Not only do they pack up a meal that befits fine china they provide the china. And wine glasses. And cloth napkins rolled in gilded napkin rings. And a votive candle. With the Cottage to arriae eperience, you et the tone oup ottae eperience delivered to your doorstep, then piced up the net day lie room service. It’s as special as it gets in these fraught times. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST SEAFOOD Crawling Crab

6730 Page Avenue, 314-328-3421 Three years ago, Flavia Moore launched Crawling Crab out of her home kitchen as a way to earn some etra money to tae her daughter to Disney World. She thought she’d get some orders here and there; what she wasn’t prepared for was a response so overwhelming that she’d quit her day job and go all in as a restaurateur. Last August, Moore set up shop inside Pagedale’s 24:1 Café, using the daytime restaurant’s kitchen by night as both a commissary and storefront. Not long thereafter, she became so popular the 24:1 folks turned over the operation to her entirely, converting the breakfast and lunch spot into a seaood east fit or eptune himself. Moore is known for her massive platters of buttery shellfish, issed with herbs and arlic; crab, lobster and shrimp are served alongside potatoes, corn and sausage that’s akin to a Cajun seafood boil. If you want the full rawlin rab eperience, however, order the seafood mac and cheese, which is laden with crabmeat and si inds o cheese. his buttery custard which, lie all of Moore’s food, translates perectly to taeout is the comort we need these days. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST VEGAN/VEGETARIAN COMFORT FOOD SweetArt Bakeshop & Cafe

2203 South 39th Street, 314-771-4278

If anyone ever gets all up in their cups about how vegetarians are uptight, health-obsessed yuppies or some such total nonsense, the easiest way to set them straight forevermore is to chuckle at their folly, then call up SweetArt Bakeshop & Cafe and place an order. For many years now, this Black-owned restaurant has been serving up vegan soul food and scrumptious cupcakes that will satisfy any mouth, vegan or otherwise. How do they craft a housemade Audre Lorde’s Chikn Challenge sandwich to rival any meat-based version in the city? With “love + magic,” they say, and that’s as good an eplanation as youll need. hat sandwich has been raved about since it debuted a couple of years ago, but it faces stiff competition for best offering on their menu:

from Zora Neale Hurston’s Spicy Chikn Sandwich, say, or the Mackin Cheese, or the L+M Kale Salad, or the Southwest Burger topped with batter-dipped onion rings. And that doesn’t even count dessert, where their au stess” cupcakes and “Come Hither” carrot cake cupcakes steal the show with icings that are flatout superior to any dairy based pretenders. There’s much more to the menu those ried n breaded cauliflower bites are, ust, lie, but the point will have been made and won by then. This is food by real people for real people, and now you’ve got the grease stains to prove it. EVAN SULT

BEST RESTAURANT FOR VEGETARIANS AND OMNIVORES TO EAT TOGETHER Lona’s Lil Eats

2199 California Avenue, 314-925-8938

Anyone who thinks it’s hard to eat vegetarian in St. Louis hasn’t tried. Every neighborhood in the

Lona’s Lil Eats. | JENNIFER SILVERBERG

city has delicious options, either in all-vegetarian spots or with thoughtfully prepared dishes at omnivore places. You know the kind I mean: the ones that the staff would actually choose to eat themselves, rather than throwing together some halfassed wet-pepper portabello mess that doesn’t appeal to anyone, much less vegetarians who could cook circles around that stuff. That’s what makes Lona’s il ats such a pleasure you can tell that the vegetarian and vegan options are on equal footing with any of the other items. Their giant rice paper wraps are a wonder to behold and a joy to bite into, ull o flavor and teture lass noodles combine with tofu, crisp lettuce and really any of the sauces to put a feast in your fists. ise eaters now to order the spicy eggplant side dish as well, which arrives right on the paper lining and dark with a smoy flavor that will haunt your tastebuds until you come back for more. And when you’re done, you and your meateating friend can split a pineapple-coconut butter cookie. EVAN SULT

BEST SANDWICH The Pastrami Sandwich from Nomad

1221 Tamm Avenue, 314-696-2360

Once upon a time, Tommy Andrew was called “Tommy Salami” by his kitchen colleagues. However, if you’ve had the signature offering at his sandwich shop Nomad you’ll understand the only appropriate moniker is “Tommy Pastrami.” Andrew opened Nomad inside Bob Brazell’s Tamm Avenue Bar this past February, right before the world went to hell; as such, it’s been a tough go for the talented chef who finally realied his dream o opening a sandwich spot. However, if there is one shining light in the midst of this COVID-19 darkness, it’s his pastrami, a feat of sandwich-making so perfect it might make you rethink whether 2020 is actually a total bust. Andrew’s housemade pastrami is kissed with enough pepper to cut through the fatty meat, then piled onto marble rye bread with Swiss cheese and a creamy “special” sauce that adds to the decadence. It’s the sort of comforting sustenance you want to eat every day of the week now that you don’t have to worry about wearing pants that button. CHERYL BAEHR BEST STEAKS

LeGrand’s Market & Catering

4414 Donovan Avenue, 314-353-6128

In normal times, we’d likely be touting some swanky, highpriced steakhouse, complete with a la carte sides and shockingly expensive California cabs as the place to get your steak on. This year, however, we’ve embraced the joy of home cooking (like we had a choice) and have been able to recreate that experience, thanks to the amazing meat counter at LeGrand’s Market & Catering. This St. Louis Hills staple is known for its sandwiches, brats and that cool, oldschool Tom-Boy sign out front, but its true claim to fame are its fresh-cut steaks, which make you understand the importance of a great butcher that you can chat up across the counter. Two thickcut strips, a couple of large russets and a bunch of asparagus later and you’ll be in steakhouse heaven — only in stay-in-place times, you can have that fun in your jammies. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST SUSHI Nippon Tei

14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-386-8999

Nick Bognar came back to St. Louis on a mission to help his mom breathe new life into her longtime west-county restaurant Nippon Tei. A couple of James Beard Award nods, national acclaim and a celebrated restaurant of his own later, it’s safe to say that Bognar has helped out and then some. However, no matter how far he’s gone in the couple of years he’s been back in town, it all comes back to what he did for the sushi menu at Nippon Tei. Under his watch, the restaurant has come to be seen as the place in town to feast on fish, thans to his commitment to sourcing the absolute best of the best seafood and preparing it in a way that honors its flavor as opposed to covering it up as is so popular in American-style rolls. Though he’s now focused on his own place, Indo, his legacy remains intact at Nippon Tei as the unquestionable king of sushi in St. Louis, if not the Midwest.

CHERYL BAEHR

BEST PLACE TO FIND FOOD IN THE WILD Eckert’s Apple Orchards

Multiple locations including 951 South Green Mount Road, Belleville; 618-233-0513 Everyone loves apples, and the best tasting apple is always the one that you picked off of a tree yourself. The freshness just can’t be beat. The start of pick-your-own-apple season at Eckert’s usually draws lots of families looking to take the kids out on an adventure, but trips to the apple orchards are even more in demand now that parents are increasingly desperate to get their cooped-up children out of the house for some fresh air. Eckert’s has adjusted accordingly and not only instituted social distancing guidelines, but also switched their systems to allow for reservation-only booking to avoid overcrowding. They also installed partitions on their wagons and have placed handwashing stations throughout the grounds. Eckert’s currently of-

fers apple picking at three local locations including 951 South Green Mount Road in Belleville, 20995 Eckert Orchard Road in Grafton and 2719 Eckert Orchard Lane in Millstadt. JAIME LEES

BEST TACO La Tejana Taqueria

3149 North Lindbergh Boulevard,

Bridgeton; 314-291-8500

Part tienda, carniceria and taqueria, Bridgeton’s La Tejana is an authentic slice of Mexico in north county that serves an outstanding array of tacos that set the bar for casual Mexican dining in St. Louis. The digs may be simple, but the flavors are anything but; from steak, carnitas and chicken to tongue, pork skin or goat, owners Antonio and Brenda Garcia serve up dazzling dishes in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Tacos aren’t the Garcias’ only worthy offering — the taqueria offers tortas, soup, burritos and the occasional fajita special — but the tacos are the soul of the place. Paired with a six-pack from the adjacent liquor store, it’s some of the best takeout you can find. CHERYL BAEHR BEST WINE SELECTION

Parker’s Table

7118 Oakland Avenue, Richmond Heights; 314-645-2050

In the before times, we’d be telling you that you need to spend the day wandering around Parker’s Table, browsing the selection of cheeses, pasta and fresh-baked bread, grabbing a “Beddu Muffaletta” at the sandwich counter, exploring its many nooks and crannies (if you haven’t let your little one wander into the small toyfilled secret passaeway, you’re missing out) and chatting up Jonathan Parker about his favorite bottles. In the COVID times, that joyful experience has been taken away, though what’s replaced it is pretty good, too. Though Parker’s Table is closed for in-shop business, Parker has created an amazing takeout and delivery system that allows you to take the joy of the store home with you. Call in advance or stroll up to the outdoor counter, and you’ll be walked through the shop’s impressive wine offerings and have a selection picked out for you with the help of one of its resident experts. If you’re going to drown your sorrows, at least this gives you a bit of dignity. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST RESTAURANT TO CLOSE Local Chef Kitchen

15270 Manchester Road, Ballwin

The passing of chef Robert Uyemura in February was a devastating loss to the St. Louis food community. Beloved to all that encountered him, Uyemura was a trailblazer in the world of local, farm-to-table cooking, this philosophy infusing everything he touched well before it was en vogue. Though his wife Mitzi and loyal kitchen staff kept his westcounty restaurant Local Chef Kitchen going until June, doing so indefinitely proved too di ficult. iti decided to close the restaurant with a heavy heart, knowing that by saying goodbye to a place that was her husband, through and through, she was saying goodbye to him all over again. There will never be another place like this unassuming bastion of local cooking, because there will never be another Robert Uyemura.

CHERYL BAEHR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Little Fox

2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456 Once upon a time, Little Fox was on track to get one of the year’s most rave reviews after a series of visits that occurred over the week of March 8. That review never happened. Instead, the COVID-19 bomb went off, raining nuclear fallout through the restaurant industry the following week and making not only restaurant reviews a relic of the before times, but calling into question the future of dining itself. It’s a shame Little Fox did not get its moment to shine, for this Fox Park gem is truly magical. Envisioned by owners Mowgli and Craig Rivard as a modern neighborhood restaurant, Little Fox dazzles with dishes like ’nduja croquettes with sweetie drop pepper aioli; lime and coconut cured tuna crudo; and an outstanding marinated pork chop, all of which can be enjoyed for takeout, on the patio or across the street from the restaurant at the restaurant’s expanded outdoor space. In some ways, it’s sad that

Little Fox has come to stand as an example of what could have been in the St. Louis restaurant scene. In others, its tenacity and adaptability make it an example of all that can be — a perfect microcosm of the city’s dining community. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST REINVENTION Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria

9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill; 314-942-6555 and 14171 Clayton Road, Town & Country; 636-220-3238

Katie Collier has racked up a slew of awards and national acclaim for her famously good restaurants, but she was forced to scramble like everyone else when the pandemic hit. Aside from unparalleled food (her Fiori Arrabiata is the stuff of dreams), the service has always been warm and welcoming even as crowds swarmed to the doors. When eating in restaurants abruptly ended early in the pandemic, Collier and her husband Ted immediately shifted their team to developing a frozen pizza business on the fly. n seven wees, they had sold 40,000 locally. It was such a success they scaled up to shipping nationally through FedEx. Katie’s reopened patios at its Rock Hill and Town & Country locations in June and now takes reservations, but the pizzas continue to be a major part of the operation. Even more impressive than building a freezing, packaging and delivery business from the ground up during a pandemic has been the Colliers’ commitment to continue their charitable work. That includes Giveback Tuesdays, where they partner with local charities and donate all the profits or the day. And those frozen pizzas? For every one Katie’s sells, they donate one to local food banks. DOYLE MURPHY

BEST OUTDOOR

DINING EXPERIENCE

The Bellwether

1419 Carroll Street, 314-380-3086

The moment you step out onto one of the Bellwether’s patios, you feel as if you’ve wandered into some sort of fantasyland where dining out feels normal again. It’s not that they are downplaying the need for current protocols — it’s that they are so conscious of making the dining experience as safe as possible that, despite donning a mask, you can momentarily feel like all is well again. The Bellwether is blessed with both second- and thirdfloor patios pre, this was a nice amenity now, its become essential to ensure that the team can deliver to guests two different open-air dining experiences with more than enough space between tables to make you feel as comfortable as possible. This allows you to get lost in the beautifully appointed setting, with its sweeping sunset views and gentle breeze. Add to this the restaurant’s beautiful food and impeccable service, and dining out doesn’t get any better

in 2020. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST PLACE TO GET FRESH FOOD Farmers’ Markets

The freshest food is rarely found indoors, which is a fortunate coincidence since it’s also been best to try to stay outdoors for much of the year. And if you want your food so fresh that your lettuce comes with a little dirt on it and your tomatoes are still warm from the sun, the best place to

find it is at a armers maret. From the classic Saturday market in Soulard to newer spots in Kirkwood, Ferguson and Tower Grove Park, outdoor markets are still by far the best place to find resh ood. ou cant beat the prices, either. When you buy directly from the farmers, you’re cutting out the middleman — which will do wonders for your food budget, too. JAIME LEES

BEST BAR TO CLOSE IN 2020 All of Them

Normally we’d use this space to memorialie a specific waterin hole which has, for one reason or another, closed its doors in the last twelve months. But this is 2020, and nothing is normal anymore — especially for those in the bar industry. And so, this year, we’d like to take the time to recognize every bar that has closed in response to the pandemic, including the ones that have since reopened safely, the ones who remain closed as they try against the odds to ride it out and the ones that were forced to shutter altogether. Thank you or your sacrifice it isnt fair and it never was. A toast to you all, and a full-throated “fuck

Balkan Treat Box. | MABEL SUEN

you” to those who flouted the rules — and helped make sure this nightmare is an ongoing one for everyone — who shall remain nameless because they aren’t worth mentioning. DANIEL HILL

BEST REARRANGEMENT Central West End Open-Air Dining

When the pandemic hit, it hit restaurants the hardest. What is usually an impressive and thriving scene was decimated overnight, leaving our friends in the industry without jobs and leaving us locked out of our favorite places to eat. It took a while for health experts to determine what could pass as a reasonably safe dining experience, and as of now they’ve settled on dining al fresco. With many local restaurants on the brink of collapse, the Central West End organized a system wherein many of our favorite local eateries could take over some street space on the weekends to offer more tables and space to eat outside. It was the best possible pivot for both restaurants and their fans, and a forward-thinking move for the local economy, too. Cheers to the CWE. JAIME LEES

82020

BEST DRIVE-THRU Yolklore

8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538

When John and Mary Bogacki announced that a drive-thru would be part of their business plan for Yolklore when they opened back in 2016, there were more than a few eyebrows raised. Though there were a couple of other nonchain drive-thrus in town, the form was certainly associated with mass-produced fast food and not the type of thoughtful daytime fare the Bogackis were intending to do. Fast-forward to the COVID times, and their idea is now unquestionably genius. Instead of being relegated to prepackaged, warmed-up Mc-food, Yolklore gives guests amazing, locally sourced breakfast and lunch with both speed and hospitality. It may have been convenient before, but this way of eating is now essential, and Yolklore is best in class. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST CASUAL TAKEOUT Balkan Treat Box

8103 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-733-5700

Seeing as how Balkan Treat Box has already been lauded by just about every outlet conceivable since its humble beginnings in a food truck — in addition to the high marks it’s gotten from this publication, it’s been namechecked by Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, the Food Network, the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Sauce, Feast and probably more we’re missing — it only makes sense that, in this new age of increased carryout orders, it should get props as a takeout restaurant as well. The Bosnian cuisine pumped out of its amous woodfired oven by the husband-and-wife team of Loryn and Edo Nalic remains as delicious as it ever was — good lord, that pide — and its pandemic approach to contactless curbside dining is well thought out to match. The process is simple: First head to the restaurant’s website (balkantreatbox.com) and place an order. You will be given a time to pick up your food i you need a specific time, you can let them know during the ordering process) and when you arrive, your food will be waiting for you on a folding table in front of the restaurant, with your name prominently displayed in big block letters. And that’s it! Grab your goods and be on your way — no need to interact with a single human being during this time when doing so is a fraught concept. Just make sure, when this COVID-19 nonsense is all over, that you do poke your head in and give thanks to the staff for the incredible food and thoughtful pandemic protocols — lord knows they deserve it. DANIEL HILL

BEST FANCY TAKEOUT Peacemaker Lobster & Crab

1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858

Old pandemic pros — which all of us are now, sadly — know that any meal consumed at home is just a few simple steps away rom bein an uberclassy, fine dining affair. Some candles, dimmed lighting, a nice tablecloth (the sheet from your bed will do in a pinch), a shirt with a collar on it and voila! Your home is now the very definition o refined eleance. ow that your dining-room table (a pingpong table or whatever will do in a pinch) and its accompanying room in your home is elegant as hell, it’s time to make sure the food is top-notch to match. Enter Peacemaker Lobster & Crab. The beloved local purveyor of tasty sea bugs has adapted ably to our collective COVID reality, offering curbside pickup of its delicious wares. Orders can be placed online at peacemakerlobstercrab. com/st-louis-order, and upon your arrival staff will bring your food to your car and even pop it in the trunk for you. All you gotta do now is bring your meal home to your eleant and refined dining space, and you and your dining companion(s) will be the very picture of culinary sophistication. Just make sure to wear a bib (a trash bag will do in a pinch) — you wouldn’t want to ruin your only nice shirt. DANIEL HILL BEST KEPT SECRET Tiny Chef

4701 Morganford Road, 314-832-9223

Pre-COVID, word was starting to get out about Tiny Chef, an unlikely bastion of Korean cuisine inside Bevo Mill neighborhood pinball bar the Silver Ballroom. From a small takeout counter in the back of the bar, owner Melanie eyer was finally realiin her dream of connecting with her Korean heritage through food with delicious results, gradually building a group of loyalists who were eager to taste what she was cooking that day. When the pandemic hit and the bar shuttered, Meyer was crestfallen, worried that she was on the verge of los-

ing all that she’d worked for. However, she rallied, creating a robust takeout business that operates through a small, streetfacing window. She’s gotten creative with her offerings, running everything from her amazing tteokbokki special to a Koreanstyle seafood boil that has people begging for it to be a regular occurrence — one she’s inclined to keep going, like everything she does, as long as the people keep

Tiny Chef, aka Melanie Meyer. | ANDY PAULISSEN

coming. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST PLACE TO TRY NEW FLAVORS 9 Mile Garden

9375 Gravois Road, Affton; 314-390-2806

Instead of waiting around for food trucks to come to you, in St. Louis you can now go to them. Affton’s 9 Mile Garden opened this summer, and the outdoor food mall was sure to be a hit. A collaboration between Guerrilla Street Food co-owner Brian Hardesty and Seneca Commercial Real Estate (which owns the shopping center on Gravois Road where it’s located), the garden can host more than 25 food trucks on its property, making it the best place to sample a wide variety of food in just one quick visit. In an effort to protect staff and customers from COVID-19, the entire operation shut down for a bit earlier this year before reopening with new rules, sanitation and social distancing guidelines. But even though the pandemic has cost them some business, 9 Mile Garden remains one of the most popular places in town to stuff your face. Hot tip: You’re not going to be able to eat everything that you want to try at this place, so grab some items to go for a little treat at home later. JAIME LEES

BEST GAY BAR Just John

4112 Manchester Avenue, 314-371-1333 Always an excellent choice for a night (or afternoon) out, Just John used the pandemic-forced closure this spring and summer to do a $100,000 renovation to the club’s interior. The result, unveiled in an early October grand reopening, is a modernized open concept with the central island bar replaced by a sleek update, positioned at the side of an ex-

pansive dance floor. edone and epanded bathrooms oer welcome touchless eatures, and there is new floorin and lihtin throuhout. hat hasnt chaned is the community eel built over the past eleven years by coowners eromy uot and ohn rnold. heyve manaed to create that perect miture o a spot that can transition rom low ey to ullon party. nd while it loos lie it will be a while beore paced dance floors are a smart option aain, ust ohn still has one o the best patios in t. ouis. ts always been an outdoor oasis, and were especially thanul or it these days. DOYLE MURPHY

BEST BAR

(TIE) The Waiting Room

10419 St. Charles Rock Road, St Ann; 314-890-8333

The Silver Ballroom

4701 Morganford Road, 314-832-9223

he ilver allroom and its sister waterin hole, the aitin oom, are not ucin around when it comes to this shit. oth beloved punrocandpinball bars have been steadastly serious about adherin to health uidelines throuhout the pandemic that includes mass, distancin, reduced capacities and ivin you the stany boot riht out the door i you choose to act lie an ass about any o the above. ut eually comortin in this nihtmare o a year has been their enlihtened view reardin our societys ills, as evidenced by a post on social media rom the owners in late une displayin support in no uncertain terms or women, the lac ives atter movement and the community. hen were not busy spittin in the wind, our community spits in the ace o oppression,” the post reads. ur community believes in science. ur community stands up to bullies and tells ai uns to uc .” men to that and amen to those impossibly tasty ustralian meat pies behind the bar. youre not able or yet willin to step oot in a bar durin this pandemic, you should at least nab some halbaes o those delicious bad boys at thesilverballroom.suare.site and thewaitinroomstl.suare.site to help eep the lihts on. he ood people who own both bars definitely have your bac now would be a reat time or you to have theirs. DANIEL HILL

BEST BARTENDERS Natasha Bahrami & Michael Fricker, the Gin Room

3200 South Grand Boulevard, 314-771-3411

ut aside, or a moment, that the in oom has one o the best in collections in the world, that its a umpino point or a world class spirits platorm, inworld, and that the bar is located inside one o the citys best restaurants. ll o that maes or a reat waterin hole, but what maes the in oom so special is the love that ownerbartender atasha ahrami and bartender ichael ricer pour into every sinle thin they do. his is a true passion proect or the duo whose inectious oy or their proession, insatiable curiosity and constant push to row is truly lorious to bas in while you sip the best coctails around. CHERYL BAEHR

BEST MARGARITA Frozen To-Go Margaritas at Taco Buddha

7405 Pershing Avenue, University City; 314-502-9951 erhaps its overill to roll up to your riends socially distanced rontyard porch atherin with two allonsied pitchers o aco uddhas roen mararitas and a uadruple order o atch reen chile ueso. ut hell, we all need to drown our sorrows or this crapshow o a year, and theres no better way to do that than by chuin what basically amounts to a teuila slushie. ince the county started allowin restaurants to do too coc tails praise be, aco uddha has been churnin out these lorious, limeissed beauties lie they are oin out o style, and its no wonder why people have been clamorin or them. ell balanced, rereshin and the perect smooth teture, these roen mars have a topshel eel to them, when bottom o the rail would do. hans to them or ivin us a bit o delicious, roendrin dinity. CHERYL BAEHR

tacoweek official passport

Hacienda Mexican Restaurant

Chicken Mole A savory chicken mole taco in a corn tortilla, topped with fresh lettuce, Mexican cheese, and thinly sliced radishes, alongside a chicken tinga taco topped with fresh lettuce, Mexican cheese, and tomatoes. With a side of our traditional Spanish rice. 9748 Manchester Rd, St. Louis | haciendastl.com | (314) 962-7100

The Wood Shack Soulard

carnitas Pulled pork taco with Baja slaw, chimichurri, cotija cheese, pickled jalapeño 1862 S 10th St, St. Louis | thewoodshacksoulard.com | (314) 833-4770

The Blue Duck

Barbacoa pork taco With fried corn, chipotle crema, marinated cabbage, cotija, cilantro on corn tortillas. 2661 Sutton Blvd, Maplewood | blueduckstl.com | (314) 769-9940

El Toluco Taqueria & Grocery

Pick 2 for $5 Al Pastor pork - made with secret ingredients Carnitas pork - tender shredded pork Carne asada steak - served with our tasty tender mix of sirloin and ribeye 6 inch soft corn tortilla shell doubly wrapped with cilantro and onions 14234 Manchester Rd, Ballwin | eltolucotaqueria.com | (636) 686-5444

Red Knot Culinary

Duck Confit “Carnitas” taco With duck fat flour tortillas, lime crema, cotija, salsa verde, pickled red onions, radish, and cilantro 4127 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis | red-knot-culinary.square.site | (314)-201-3344

Bootleggin’ BBQ Tavern

Soft tacos With either smoked pulled pork or smoked chicken topped with bbq sauce, lettuce, tomato, onion, and cheese. Package deal! Get 4 plus a quart of margaritas for $25 1933 Washington Ave, St. Louis | bootlegginbbq.com | (314) 405-2020

Seoul Taco

Choice of 2 Tacos for $5 Protein options include chicken, spicy pork, bulgogi steak, and tofu. Tacos are made with sesame vinaigrette salad mix, green onions, crushed sesame seeds, Seoul sauce, and a wedge of lime. 6665 Delmar Blvd, St. Louis | (314) 863-1148, 46 Four Seasons Shopping Center, Chesterfield | (314) 548- 6868, 4099 Chouteau Ave, St. Louis | (314) 925-8101 | seoultaco.com

Pit Stop

Pork belly taco Pickled onion, bell peppers, sweet spicy sauce Tofu taco Crispy Tofu, purple cabbages, carrots, cashew cream Salmon taco Grilled salmon, tomato pico, green salsa 2130 Macklind Ave, St. Louis | pitstop-stl.com | (314) 696-2999

Carnivore La Bamba

FAJITA STEAK TACO Steak taco Grilled steak sautéed with peppers, onions, mushrooms, topped with cheddar, Made with corn tortilla, onion, and cilantro served with rice and beans. Housemade Salsa and sour cream 1101 Lucas Ave, St. Louis | elburroloco.net | (314) 833-3211 FRIED CHICKEN TACO Hand-breaded chicken, fried and topped with housemade pico, cheddar and our fresh Bobbo’s Tacos Food Truck Sriracha aioli Klassic K 5257 Shaw Ave, St. Louis | carnivore-stl.com | (314) 449-6328 Our signature taco bursting with nuanced flare. grilled flank steak topped with a carrot, cabbage, onion and mint slaw.

J. Smugs Gastro Pit Kung Fu

Philly Cheesesteak Our little vegan fighter looking for revenge from the carnivores who said they would Smoked brisket, bell peppers, onion, mushrooms, provel, sour cream “never.” grilled tofu, candied jackfruit, pickled carrots, and Bobbo’s green sauce. Alambre Taco bobbosstacos.com | (314) 285-8872 Shrimp, ground brisket, grilled jalapeños & onions, mozzarella, parmesan cheese Chipotle Chicken Tinga Smoked chicken with sautéed onions smothered in chipotle sauce, queso fresco OG Palmas Mushroom street taco 4916 Shaw Ave, St. Louis | jsmugsgastropit.com | (314) 499-7488 Cilantro, onion, seared cheese, roasted guajillo sauce 7356 Manchester Rd St. Louis | oglaspalmas.com | (314) 645-3364 Taco Circus Two taco combo One chicken thigh al carbon and one Al pastor both on corn or flour tortilla, cilantro, onion, Diablitos Cantina 2-taco plate with rice and beans. 2 tacos for 5.00 Guests can choose which tacos they’d like. Happy hour is 3-6 Tues-Friday featuring 1/2 4940 Southwest Ave, St. Louis | www.tacocircus.com | (314) 899-0061 price snacks and Margarita specials. 4198 Manchester Ave, St. Louis | diablitoscantina.com | (314) 535-9700 Taco Buddha Taco al Pastor Grilled chile & pineapple-marinated pork, grilled pineapple & red onion, slaw, cotija, Amigos Cantina White fish filet cilantro, and corn tortillas Seasoned with our own spicy rub, seared, topped with our zesty yogurt sauce Jackfruit Taco al Pastor 120 W Jefferson Ave, Kirkwood | amigoskirkwood.com | (314) 821-0877 Jackfruit braised in chiles and pineapple, grilled pineapple & red onion, slaw, cotija, cilantro, and corn tortillas 7405 Pershing Ave, University City | tacobuddha.com | (314) 502-9951 Taqueria Z Chicken or papas and poblano 2 tacos with rice and beans

BLT ‘s 109 E. Park St. Edwardsville | taqueriaz.com | (618)-307-5018 (Breakfast Lunch and Tacos) 2 BBQ chicken tacos Chicken, robust sweet hickory bbq sauce, sharp cheddar, cilantro, pico on flour tortillas Cantina Laredo Tacos al Pastor 2 Hipster Tacos Black beans, sweet potatoes, cotija cheese, avocado topped with lime aioli on corn tortilla (vegetarian or vegan without cheese and aioli) Both $5 dine-in and $5.50 carry-out 626 N 6th St, St. Louis | stlblts.com | (314) 925-8505 (2 tacos served with rice) Savory, spicy and a little bit sweet. Slow roasted pork seasoned with peppers, fruit juices and spices served on soft corn tortillas. Topped with a traditional mix of onions, cilantro, and pineapple and a lime wedge. Served with our cilantro lime rice. 7710 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton | cantinalaredo.com | (314) 725-2447 Alpha Brewing Company pork chili verde street tacos Made with in house pickled green tomato salsa 4310 Fyler Ave, St. Louis | alphabrewingcompany.com | (314) 621-2337 Alta Calle Fish taco Beer battered tilapia fish, served in a flour tortilla, topped with chipotle mayo, slaw, pico de gallo and homemade fresh cheese 3131 S Grand Blvd, St. Louis | altacallestl.com | (314) 282-0840 El Burro Loco Steak taco Made with corn tortilla, onion, and cilantro served with rice and beans. 313 N Euclid Ave, St. Louis | elburroloco.org | (314) 224-5371 The Taco & Ice Cream Joint Savory juicy pulled pork Cooked for 4 hours in manteca de puerco, with jalapenos, picked onions, and guac, on a corn tortilla served with an El Jimador Margarita

Sunny’s Cantina 2738 Cherokee St, St. Louis | facebook.com/tacoandicecreamjoint | (314) 224-5799

Sunny Pastor Braised pork, sweet and spicy pineapple pico, cumin crema, queso fresco, and green onions on a corn tortilla Presented by 6655 Manchester Ave, St. Louis | sunnyscantina.com | (314) 944-8226

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Goods & Services

Those businesses that fall under the Goods & Services subsection of our Best Of celebration may not have been the hardest hit in this god-awful pandemic — we’ll save that designation for the live entertainment industry, or perhaps the restaurant industry, or maybe bars, or … you know what? This whole thing has been an unstoppable bloodbath for just about anyone whose last name isn’t Bezos, so let’s not make a competition out of it.

The point is, our favorite have had it rough this year, but purveyors of goods and services they’ve been doing their damnedest to survive, just like everyone else. For many, that meant being forced to shutter temporarily early in the year, when only “essential” businesses were allowed to remain open. Then, even after getting the green light to open up again, they’ve had to deal with reduced capacities, mask mandates, belligerent asshole customers who don’t believe in masks (fuck those guys) and just the uncertainty that comes with trying to do business while a deadly virus stalks the streets.

But like so many, the industry has proven adaptable. From the STL Stylehouse’s wise decision to begin selling St. Louis-themed masks alongside its other apparel near the start of the pandemic, to Naturally Pure Salon’s extensive safety measures that allow you to stop looking terrible while still staying virus free, to the incredible amount of sanitization now employed by every one of these businesses just to keep their customers safe, St. Louis’ best have proven they have what it takes to weather the storm. Here are some of our favorites. DANIEL HILL

BEST CLOTHING BOUTIQUE STL Stylehouse

3159 Cherokee Street, 314-898-0001

Pre-2020, STL Stylehouse was best known as the city’s go-to spot for whimsical and civicprideful T-shirts and similar apparel. And while that’s still the case, Stylehouse has also become well-known for its entries into one of the year’s most booming new economies — the selling of face masks meant to slow the spread of COVID-19. The shop’s St. Louis-inspired masks have become favorites of the local citizenry and its government alike, with Mayor Lyda Krewson and numerous members of the Board of Aldermen counting themselves as customers. Designs include variations of the St. Louis fla, photos o the syline and other cityscapes, and, naturally, one that just reads “SAINT FUCKIN LOUIS.” Show your appreciation for the city you live in while keeping those around you safe from your germs — it’s the stylish fuckin’ thing to do. DANIEL HILL

BEST CAR REPAIR Everything Automotive

3430 Morgan Ford Road, 314-352-1682

One time, when a certain reporter brought his 1996 Toyota Camry into Everything Automotive for some repairs after an accident, said reporter was surprised a wee later to find that the ood people at the shop had spraypainted a wizard onto the hood of the vehicle — for free! Truly, in an age of lackluster service and shoddy workmanship, Everything Automotive stands head and shoulders above its competition, willing to go that extra mile to make sure its customers leave happy. And for those of you who, for some odd reason, would rather not have the image of a mystical being emblazoned on your vehicle (you prudes) there’s good news: They will also leave that service off, without you even asking — also for free! Aside from all of that, the shop’s small staff offers that rarest, most valuable thing in a car repair shop: honesty. You can bet that if you bring your vehicle to them you won’t get some bullshit upsell or unneeded repair tacked onto your bill. o nonsense, no refills on bliner fluid,” no hassle ust outstanding work at a fair price in a timely fashion. These days, that’s even more magical than the mighty Zanzabar the Great himself (yes, the wizard has a name). DANIEL HILL

BEST BOOKSTORE Left Bank Books

399 North Euclid Avenue, 314-367-6731

There are myriad fantastic reasons St. Louis’ literate love to support Left Bank Books. Their wide selection and friendly staff are two of the most obvious, or maybe to pay homage to the best bookstore cat there ever was, Spike (RIP). But one of the best may be its championing of trans rights. The owners of the shop recently changed the game in the book-buying business by helping to create an e-commerce system that doesn’t dead-name its customers, an endeavor near and dear to co-owner Jarek Steele’s heart. Steele, who transitioned sixteen years ago, says he was mortified when a riend who was transitioning ordered a book from the shop’s website and its ecommerce system failed to refer to that friend by her preferred name. Steele took his case to the American Booksellers Association, whose checkout system is used by many independent bookstores, but was told that remedying the matter would require too much coding. That led to a practice wherein, for years, the shop’s employees manually entered customers’ preferred names. But with the massive surge in online book sales that came with the COVID-19 crisis, that system became unsustainable. Steele petitioned the ABA again, and this time he was successful. As of September, the system now requires the entry of a preferred name during the ordering process, meaning all communications from Left Bank — and those bookstores across the nation who use the same system — will no longer inadvertently dead-name their customers. It’s a huge win for trans rights, and it only happened because the owners of the best bookstore in St. Louis cared enough to make it so. DANIEL HILL

BEST HARDWARE STORE Overland Hardware Co.

2520 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-427-1404 When did a trip to the hardware store transform into an hourslong quest through a labyrinthi-