Riverfront Times City Guide 2017

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Love It Like a Native

LIVE IN IT LIKE A TOURIST The RFT’s complete guide to all the best things in St. Louis

BY SARAH FENSKE

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elcome to our very favorite city. And if it’s your first time visiting St. Louis, even if you’ve only got 36 hours, we’re ready for you — with an utterly unscientific, completely idiosyncratic guide to seeing the very best the city has to offer in a very short period of time.

But we know one guide doesn’t work for everybody. Maybe you’ve only got a single day here, or maybe you’ve already seen the touristy stuff and are looking to experience St. Louis the way the locals do. Hell, maybe you yourself are a local — and since you’ve already gone up the Arch and done the City Museum more times than you can count, you want to dig a little deeper, to get out of your comfort zone. Whether that means leaving the suburbs or venturing to them, we’ve got you covered. Our mini-guides to the Central West End, the Loop, Overland, south St. Louis and downtown St. Charles each offer a 24-hour agenda packed to the gills with delicious things to eat and fun things to do.

And still there’s more. Among many other offerings, we’ve got a guide to the city’s abundant live music offerings, a roster of all the best places to see art, a rundown of both the area’s hottest restaurants and an appreciation of its longstanding classics, and even a roadmap to exploring a dozen of the city’s best donut shops. Oh, and did we mention we tracked down the best place to try each one of the city’s finest local foodstuffs? T-ravs and frozen custard, here we come!

You can’t go wrong if you follow one of these guides, all of these guides or some mish-mashed combination. After all, this is St. Louis: The drinks are cheap, the traffic is light and the possibility for adventure is everywhere.

We hope you’ll check out whatever strikes your fancy — and if you’re still going strong at midnight, we’ve got some suggestions on where to keep the party going, too. Happy traveling!

SEEING THE CITY..................................................................8 EATING IN THE CITY........................................................... 29 ARTS IN THE CITY............................................................... 43 SUCCEED IN THE CITY........................................................ 58 4 |

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Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Sarah Fenske E D I T O R I A L Art Director Kelly Glueck Contributors Cheryl Baehr, Eric Berger, Jenn DeRose, Paul Friswold, Daniel Hill, Kevin Korinek, Doyle Murphy, Elizabeth Semko, Alison Sieloff, Danny Wicentowski P R O D U C T I O N Production Manager Brittani Schlager M U LT I M E D I A A D V E R T I S I N G Sales Director Colin Bell Senior VP Sales & Marketing Mike Lipel Senior Account Executive Cathleen Criswell Multimedia Account Executive Erica Kenney Account Managers Emily Fear, Jennifer Samuel C I R C U L AT I O N Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers EUCLID MEDIA GROUP Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner Chief Financial Officer Brian Painley Human Resources Director Lisa Beilstein www.euclidmediagroup.com N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G VMG Advertising 1-888-278-9866, www.voicemediagroup.com S U B S C R I P T I O N S Send address changes to Riverfront Times, 6358 Delmar Blvd., Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63130. Domestic subscriptions may be purchased for $78/6 months (Missouri residents add $4.74 sales tax) and $156/year (Missouri residents add $9.48 sales tax) for first class.

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Bogart’s Smokehouse is part of the Pappy’s family. photo by jennifer silverberg

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36 Hours in St. Louis t. Louis today is on the rise. Household income is rising faster here than in the U.S. as a whole, and also faster than the neighboring suburbs (more importantly for bragging purposes!), while the poverty rate within city limits took a notable plunge in the last set of Census Bureau numbers. Increasingly, young families are choosing old neighborhoods to put down roots, and anyone smart enough to renovate a home in Lafayette Square, Shaw and the Grove is laughing all the way to the bank.

To show off the very best of the city to anyone visiting from outside the metro area, we created a packed itinerary that doesn’t so much as touch foot in the suburbs. Why drive to Clayton when there are great restaurants in Botanical Heights and Benton Park? And why risk a DUI when you could easily Uber from one hotspot to the next?

That said, even this chock-full agenda had to leave out some terrific options. The city itself is just 66 square miles, but that doesn’t mean seeing it all in a weekend is manageable. There’s simply way too much to do; tough choices must

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FRIDAY

4 p.m.

See a Must-See

BY SARAH FENSKE

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be made. Make sure to check out our mini-guides to the Central West End and south city for even more great options within the city’s borders.

Starting your time in St. Louis at the Gateway Arch is the obvious choice, but that doesn’t matter: It’s still the best one.

As of press time, the massive construction project designed to better connect the Gateway Arch to both downtown and the river was still underway — and so the trams that take visitors up to the Arch’s peak are closed, as is the museum at its base.

But you’d be a fool to use that as an excuse not to visit. The best part of the Arch has never been the tiny little egg-shaped cars or the slightly dusty museum at their foot. It’s the Arch itself, a 630-foothigh engineering marvel that you simply have to see to believe.

Start your visit at the Old Cathedral (209 Walnut Street, 314-231-3250), the first cathedral west of the Mississippi. The current building wasn’t built until 1834, but a Catholic church has been on site since 1764. After you admire the light-filled sanctuary with its magnificent Arch views, step outside to see the thing itself. Some major parts of the CityArchRiver renovations are now finished, and that means it’s an easy two-minute walk to the Arch and from there an easy walk down to the trails along the Mississippi River.

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6 p.m.

Cocktail Hour The cocktails at Planter’s House (1000 Mississippi Avenue, 314-696-2603) aren’t screwing around.

Unless you’re majoring in mixology, they’re likely to strike you as longish rosters of ingredients you’ve never heard of: liqueurs, tinctures, bitters and a vegetable garden’s worth of interesting herbs and plants. But there’s no reason to be intimidated. Taking its cue from co-owner Ted Kilgore, himself an acclaimed bartender with a low-key manner, the staff here is incredibly friendly and adept at figuring out what drink will work with your palate. Perch yourself on a bar stool and let this team work its magic.

8 p.m.

Fill ‘er Up Located in an old Standard Oil filling station, Olio (1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088) represents the best of St. Louis’ dining scene in 2017 — it’s a cozy space in a once-neglected neighborhood that’s now bustling with energy and genuinely good food (in this case, Middle Eastern-influenced small plates). Owner Ben Poremba’s “Famous Egg Salad” really is just that, and even better with the optional white anchovy on top.

10:30 p.m.

Sing the Blues St. Louis is a music city, and even more than that, a blues city — and there’s no better place to catch

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Forest Park is huge; plan accordingly. photo by carol lara/flickr

play “count the stroller” as you take the long way to Clementine’s Creamery (1637 S. 18th Street, 314-858-6100) for a cone. The city’s first self-described “micro-creamery,” Clementine’s boasts “naughty” flavors with alcohol infusions and “nice” ones, such as strawberry with balsamic and white pepper and manchego with truffles and honey.

3 p.m.

Visit the City Museum The Missouri Botanical Garden provides a lovely spot for a morning walk. photo by jim rhodes/flickr

the St. Louis shuffle than in the “Blues Triangle” on the edge of downtown. BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups (700 S. Broadway, 314-436-5222), Beale on Broadway (701 S. Broadway, 314-621-7880) and Broadway Oyster Bar (736 S. Broadway, 314621-8811) offer live music nightly. Check their websites for schedules and plan to join the party.

SATURDAY 8 a.m.

Up and at ‘Em

Start your day with one of the city’s best bloody marys at Rooster (3150 S. Grand Boulevard, 314-772-3447). The second (larger) outpost of restaurateur Dave Bailey’s popular breakfastand-lunch spot, Rooster offers big communal tables, a kid-friendly atmosphere and some terrific adult beverages, right in the heart of Tower Grove South.

10 a.m.

Take a Walk One of the loveliest walks anywhere in the country is on the grounds of the Missouri Botanical Garden (4344 Shaw Boulevard, 314-577-5100).

The nation’s oldest botanical garden in continuous operation, MoBOT spans 79 acres, all of them lovely.

Noon Dig into St. Louis Barbecue No trip to St. Louis would be complete with-

out a visit to Soulard. The historic French neighborhood just south of downtown is the North American home of Anheuser-Busch; on a good day you can smell the hops from miles away. The brewery tour is fun enough; if you’ve never taken one, go for it. But the neighborhood itself can be an equally fun spot to explore, with gorgeous red brick rowhouses and a host of party-hearty bars, many with large patios. If food is more your thing at this time of day, plan to stop by Bogart’s Smokehouse (1627 S. 9th Street, 314-6213107), which almost always has a line out the door but also includes a host of sidewalk-facing picnic tables perfect for sunny days. Tuck into pitmaster Skip Steele’s ribs, brisket or even prime rib sandwich, and we can guarantee you’ll leave happy.

1 p.m.

A Sweet Treat For dessert, head less than a mile west to Lafayette Square. One of the city’s oldest, and grandest, places to live, the neighborhood boasts huge three-story mansions that trace their origins to the years following the Civil War. After falling on hard times in the middle of the 20th century, today the homes that line its streets are filled with young families, and new homes are being constructed that perfectly blend with the old (tough historic district rules will do that). Ditch your car in the plentiful angle parking lining Lafayette Park (2023 Lafayette Avenue, 314-772-5724) and

No trip to St. Louis is complete without a pilgrimage to the City Museum (750 N. 16th Street, 314-2312489). Truly a St. Louis original, the brilliant sculptor Bob Cassilly acquired a former shoe factory on the edge of downtown and transformed it into a playground for adults and children alike. Climb up a giant slinky or walk through a larger-than-life treehouse; take a ten-story slide ride or explore a series of manmade caves. The roof has a Ferris wheel and a schoolbus dangling off the side — and yes, you can climb aboard. If it all sounds vaguely unsafe, the museum shop sells kneepads. There’s also a magnificent collection of detritus salvaged from old buildings.

7 p.m.

Fancy It Up For a romantic night out, there’s no better spot than Sidney Street Cafe (2000 Sidney Street, 314771-5777). Exposed brick walls and unpretentious service give the room a warmth belied by the white tablecloths and terrific wine list. Signature dishes include an incredible lobster-stuffed filet and a steak wasabi, but you needn’t stick to red meat; chef Kevin Nashan is also great with seafood, and the night’s appetizers, listed on a chalkboard presented tableside, are inventive and seasonable. Can’t get a rez? Try Nashan’s buzzy seafood spot just down the block, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. (1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858). There’s always intense competition for tables, but the invaluable NoWait app lets you time your arrival perfectly.

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10 p.m.

Get Funky Whether you go all-in at Sidney Street or keep things casual at Peacemaker, just down the street from dinner is Venice Cafe (1903 Pestalozzi, 314-772-5994), an only-in-St.-Louis spot offering some truly funky art, a great patio and some of the best mosaics outside the Cathedral Basilica.

Live music six nights a week keeps the place jumping.

SUNDAY

8 a.m.

Merrily We Row Along Finish your time in St. Louis with a trip to one of its most beloved treasures, Forest Park (5595 Grand Drive, 314-367-7275). It’s got everything — a free zoo and art museum, a giant amphitheatre that hosts Broadway-style musicals in the summer, running and biking trails, and even an ice-skating rink in the winter. The catch is that it’s huge; at 1,371 acres, it’s a full 500 acres bigger than Central Park. If your time here is finite, we recommend heading directly to the Boathouse (6101 Government Drive, 314-367-2224). Beginning at 10 a.m. Sundays, you can rent a paddle boat for $17 an hour. Even if water isn’t your thing, it’s a great embarkation point; just follow the trails to the Grand Basin for a beautiful view of Art Hill. That man on a horse staring down at you? He’s King Louis IX of France, and we took his name.

10 a.m.

Chow Down

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The Boathouse is also a solid choice for brunch, but if you’d rather up the ante, spend your last meal in St. Louis at Three Flags Tavern (4940 Southwest Avenue, 314-669-9222). Reservations are essential, but if you’re lucky enough to secure one, you can choose from the eggs benedict topped with crab, a chorizo- and avocado-topped torta or the city’s best French toast, topped with pecan molasses, whipped cream and berries. It would be wrong to leave town hungry.

WHERE TO STAY

6261 Delmar in the Loop PeacockLoopDiner.com

You can’t go wrong at the Chase Park Plaza (212 Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-633-3000), the grand dame of the city’s hotels. Located in the lovely, walkable Central West End, the Chase boasts an outdoor swimming pool, a great cocktail bar and some top-notch amenities, including an on-site movie theater. For a more contemporary experience, try Dwell 912 (912 Hickory Street, 314-599-3100), a bed-andbreakfast that’s a far cry from the fusty chintz you may be envisioning. A private apartment attached to a gorgeous old mansion in LaSalle Park, the stylish rooms let visitors come and go as they please even while including an expert host for all your St. Louis-related questions. There’s a lovely courtyard, but the neighborhood is not a great spot for walking; if that’s high on your priority list, you might instead look at Napoleon’s Retreat (1815 Lafayette, 314-772-6979), a more traditional B&B in the heart of Lafayette Square. A first-floor room off the garden is an option for those with trouble navigating stairs. Finally, travelers with kids intent on an indoor pool may opt for Hampton Inn & Suites at Forest Park (5650 Oakland Avenue, 314-655-3993). Bonus: It’s a quarter-mile from Forest Park and less than a mile from the Saint Louis Zoo entrance.

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The Cathedral Basilica has one of the world’s great mosaic collections. photo by elizabeth semko

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24 HOURS IN THE CENTRAL WEST END

BY ELIZABETH SEMKO

W

hen the world pictures St. Louis, they picture the Arch. The Cardinals. Toasted ravioli. People aren’t likely to imagine the world’s largest chess piece, top-notch shopping or clubs where you can salsa dance the night away, but we have that, too — and it’s all in a single, highly walkable neighborhood, the Central West End. The city’s most cosmopolitan district features both giant mansions and apartment living, so the streets have a good mix of visitors and residents, along with some of the cutest dogs you’ve ever seen. Ditch the car and join the street parade.

11 a.m.

Fuel Up

Start your stay with an early lunch at Dressel’s Public House (419 N. Euclid Avenue, 314-361-1060). The neighborhood pub is cozy in the winter and sunny in the summer, with a fireplace inside for warmth and, on nice days, an outside deck facing bustling Euclid for expanded sidewalk seating. Don’t miss the pretzel with rarebit — it’s one of the most beloved appetizers in town.

1 p.m.

Shop ’Til You Drop Start your stay in Central West End by window shopping — it won’t take long for you to find something that catches your

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Jeni’s provides a great place for a snack in the Central West End. photo by mabel suen

interest. Fashion gurus are sure to find all sorts of surprises in boutiques such as 10denza (44 Maryland Plaza, 314-3611010), Fauxgerty (228 N. Euclid Avenue) and Enchanting Embellishments (4732 McPherson Avenue, 314-361-5300). Closer to Dressel’s, artists will love strolling through Atrium Gallery (4814 Washington Avenue, 314-367-1076) and Duane Reed Gallery (4729 McPherson Avenue, 314-361-4100).

And if you’re a book nerd, be sure to make your way to Left Bank Books (399 N. Euclid Avenue, 314-367-6731), which is home to new and used books of all genres, work by local artists and even a store cat. No matter your shopping preferences, however, be sure to go next door to snack on one of the creative flavors of natural ice cream at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams (389 N. Euclid Avenue, 314-367-1700). Brambleberry crisp ice cream, anyone?

and in good weather you’ll also find chess boards ready for playing on sidewalk tables outside.

3 p.m.

Checkmate

7 p.m.

Dinner and Drinks

Burn off some calories with a short walk to the World Chess Hall of Fame (4652 Maryland Avenue, 314-367-9243). Roam the three floors of exhibits and take an Instagram-worthy photo with the world’s largest chess piece, then step across the street to play a game at the Chess Club and Scholastic Center of St. Louis (4657 Maryland Avenue, 314-361-2437). You can try your hand at chess for free at one of the club’s many boards on your first visit,

Take a cue from the French by dining in style at Brasserie by Niche (4580 Laclede Avenue, 314-454-0600), the brainchild of James Beard Award-winning chef Gerard Craft. Cap off dinner with drinks at Brennan’s (4659 Maryland Avenue, 314-497-4449), where you’ll find a bar, a cigar lounge and even ping pong in the basement. Don’t forget to snap a photo of the latest humorous signage behind the bar — it’s always a hoot.

5 p.m.

Say Your Prayers Once you’ve had enough strategizing for one day, walk a bit further down the street to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis (4431 Lindell Boulevard, 314-373-8200).

Catholic or not, you’ll be astounded by this magnificent domed church, one reason St. Louis was once known as “the Rome of the West.” You can simply take it all in on your own or arrange for a guided tour. It’s recommended that you call ahead either way, as visits have to work around mass and other events in the church (you don’t want to be a wedding crasher, after all). Call the tour office (314-373-8241) for details.

10 p.m.

Dancing Queen

Dance the night away either at Mandarin (44 Maryland Plaza, 314-367-4447), a chic rooftop lounge, or Club Viva (408 N. Euclid Avenue, 314-361-0322), where you can take a free salsa lesson and hone your Latin dance skills.

Midnight Nighty Night If you’re truly looking to room in style, no other hotel will give you the Central West End experience quite like the Chase Park Plaza (212 Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-633-3000). Completed in 1931, the gorgeous Art Deco hotel today includes a beautiful outdoor pool, restaurants, shops, fitness center, spa and even a movie theater.

And don’t let its age fool you: Rooms are nicely appointed and modern, and unlike lesser hotels, they even provide robes here.

10 a.m.

Rise and Shine For a morning bite, we recommend going to Scape American Bistro (48 Maryland Plaza, 314-361-7227) and ordering the farmers cheese pancakes (be sure ask for a table in the ivy-lined courtyard if the weather is nice, too!). Bring your stay to a sweet close with a stop at Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier (32 Maryland Plaza, 314-367-7750) to stock up on some delectable souvenirs. Trust us, you’ll be back for more before you know it.

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24 HOURS IN OVERLAND

1 p.m.

Lunch

BY DANIEL HILL

S

o you’re at Lambert International Airport with time to kill. Whether that’s because of a missed flight or an international incident, let’s say you’ve got 24 hours to spend and would rather not waste your money on pricey cab fare. Well, you’re already in St. Louis’ north county, a.k.a. the finest county in the metro area (quiet down, west county).

Why not make the best of it?

To that end, we recommend making the three-mile jaunt to Overland. While smaller than its better-known neighbors to the north, Florissant and Ferguson, the Overland area offers delights all its own, and even a little history. First settled as an overnight stopping point for frontiersmen heading west from St. Louis in the 1820s, Overland was once home to a one-room cabin built by no less than Daniel Boone.

Its first school was constructed in 1846; the town was officially incorporated in 1939.

Today Overland has a population of roughly 16,000. It is a working-class town through and through, with plenty of entertaining and inexpensive ways to while away the hours.

In true north-county style, we’re including several nearby tiny municipalities in our itinerary — borders are porous here, and seats of government a’plenty. But within a few square miles you’ll find a wealth of food and fun, plus dive bars galore.

10 a.m.

Erotica Grab one of those abundant airport taxis and head to Hustler Hollywood (9802 Natural Bridge Road, Berkeley; 314-428-5069). Tell the manager, Kevin, that RFT sent you. Then stock up on pornography.

11 a.m.

A Walk in the Park Smut secured, why not enjoy the natural beauty of nearby Endicott Park (2950 Endicott Avenue, St. John; 314-615-4386)?

With 24 acres of wooded land and an eighteen-hole frisbee golf course, you have all the excuse you need to take in the great outdoors.

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All that walking around has worked up an appetite — where to go? Mi Hungry BBQ (8660 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John; 314-427-3368) serves up authentic Jamaican cuisine including jerk chicken, curried goat and even snoot sandwiches. Alternatively, you could head to Chuck-A-Burger (9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John; 314-427-9524) for ‘50s-style diner fare (burgers and fries with Elvis on the jukebox) or Woofie’s Hot Dogs (1919 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-426-6291) for a Chicago-style “dog with dignity.”

2 p.m.

Day Drinking Woodson Road, which cuts through the heart of Overland, offers plenty of good times — especially if you have a thirst for alcohol. Prepare for the dive-bar crawl portion of our program. Just across from Woofie’s is 3 of a Kind Bar & Grill (1810 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-427-2611), which will sate your thirst and then some.

A block down the road is Judy’s Fireside Lounge (2128 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-429-0555) — Judy’s features a working fireplace during the winter months, so if you need a quick warm-up this is the spot.

A couple more blocks and you’ll hit Just Bill’s (2543 Woodson Road, Overland; 314427-2999), the cultural hub of all Overland life. Stay for a while; ask owner/bartender Robin Field to tell you some ghost stories.

The Crowbar (2811 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-942-6729) is next on the list, just across the intersection — challenge the locals to some pool, but be prepared to get your ass handed to you.

2 p.m.

The Teetotaler Option Not into bars? That’s OK! You’re still gonna spend some time on Woodson. Instead of the bar crawl, make your way from lunch to the St. Louis Car Museum (1575 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-993-7104).

With a plethora of classic cars, motorcycles and airplanes dating back as far as 1909, you’ll find plenty to drool over. Best of all, everything is on sale! Purchasing an airplane at this juncture would eliminate the need to spend any more time waiting around at Lambert ever again — something to consider. Next, head

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down Woodson to Null & Crossbones (9319 Midland Boulevard, Overland; 314-731-6855) — a Grateful Dead-loving couple’s store chock-full of all manner of Dead and skull memorabilia. Stock up on skulls, then make your way to Overlord Military Collectibles (3008 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-423-6644) for some authentic gas masks and army helmets.

Overlord has been in business for more than 40 years — its collection is impressive and stacked in huge piles throughout the crowded store.

7 p.m.

Chow Time Whether you chose bars or shopping, surely you are hungry again. There are two excellent options within easy walking distance of both Overlord and Crowbar. In the mood for some Tex-Mex and margaritas?

Backtracking a bit to Chimi’s Fresh-Mex (2435 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-9421038) is highly recommended. Pizza more of your thing? Nick & Elena’s Pizzeria (3007 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-427-6566) makes a St. Louis-style thin crust that gives Imo’s a serious run for its money.

9 p.m.

Strippers and Slumber It’s nighttime now, and your stomach is full but GASP! — you lost your pornography, either while drunkenly stumbling down Woodson or as part of your airplane purchase. No worries; Rhonda’s Place

( 3 g b t b R t f t n M W 6 i l

1 B

A y o a b D O o l f b o i t — c b

Woofie’s Hot Dogs serves “hot dogs with dignity.” photo by daniel hill

saloon - game room - hardshell cafe

FAMILY OWNED BAR AND GRILL specializing in gourmet Mak n Cheeses with an original take on traditional bar food.

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three great experiences

in one location!

the best in live

st. louis blues! live music everyday (10528 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-423-0633), one of the only gentlemen’s clubs (read: pastie bars) this side of the river, is just two miles away. Essentially a dive bar with a pole in the corner, Rhonda’s is the perfect spot to tie one on or simply meet some friendly locals before heading to an airport-area hotel for the night. Might we recommend the Motel 6 (4545 Woodson Road, Woodson Terrace; 314-4236770)? At less than $40 a night, it’s the cheapest place in town to lay your head.

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Regular appearances by: Fred Pierce & Co, Marsha Evans & The Coalition, Jason David Cooper Band, Soul Reunion, Steve Pecaro Band, Inner City Blues with Skeet Rogers, Patti & The Hitmen, Rick Green, The Catapults and Everett Dean & Lonesome Hearts.

10 a.m.

Breakfast Time After you awaken but before you catch your flight back out of town (or fire up your new airplane, as the case may be), be sure you head to George’s Diner (2539 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-428-1143) — one of the tiniest and friendliest little diners you’ve ever seen — for some delicious from-scratch biscuits and gravy. On your way out you’ll notice that Just Bill’s is right next door. You’ll try to resist, but you’ll be unable — the power of Overland compels you. One for the road, bartender!

Barrel Aged Sours Beers Poured Daily 1409 WASHINGTON AVE. • 314-621-BEER (2337) www.alphabrewingcompany.com CITY GUIDE 2017

| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 15

Ranoush offers excellent Middle Eastern cuisine. photo by Jennifer Silverberg

24 HOURS IN THE LOOP

BY SARAH FENSKE

O

nce considered bohemian and a bit edgy, the Delmar Loop showed its true colors last year, when the city fathers (and a phalanx of lawyers) expelled a sports bar featuring servers in pasties and body paint. Sure, you can still get your back tattooed or your nipple pierced here, but these days, the neighborhood is decidedly family-friendly, if a bit overrun with wealthy students from neighboring Washington University.

So named because it was situated at the end of the city’s trolley line (the trolley made a “loop” before returning east to St. Louis), the Loop proves what’s old is new this spring, as the once-familiar clangclang-clang of the trolley will again echo along its path — after a two-year construction project, a 2.2-mile line runs from the University City library to the Missouri History Museum. But whether the trolley is taking passengers during your visit or still in trial runs, the area is home to more than enough delights to keep you busy for a full day, all of them accessible by foot.

11 a.m.

Fuel Up Start your day a little less than a mile west of the trolley’s endpoint with brunch at Winslow’s Home (7213 Delmar Boulevard, 314-7257559). You could certainly drive (the parking lot is big), but the large patio is best enjoyed on sunny days, and if you’re lucky enough to get one, the restaurant is a pleasant walk from the heart of the Loop.

Order at the counter from a tightly curated menu of farm-to-table preparations of breakfast and lunch classics. After filling up, browse the selection of kitchen gear and cookbooks that lines the store — they’re all for sale.

Noon Spend Some Money Meander your way east down Delmar to the heart of the Loop. If you’ve got a car, ditch it in the large (free) public lot at Delmar and Kingsland: The central district is less than a mile long and filled with beckoning storefronts. Pitaya (6632 Delmar Boulevard, 314-7252233) is a great spot for women’s clothing, while Phoenix Rising (6331 Delmar Boulevard, 314-862-0609) will make you laugh out loud, with hilarious cards and gifts and beautiful jewelry to boot.

OSO: a style lab (6321 Delmar Boulevard, 314-467-0436) mixes high and low for of-the-moment fashion, while Sol and Blues (6317 Delmar Boulevard, 314-863-2121) offers denim from top brands and other apparel for women and men alike. Or browse the racks at Subterranean Books (6275 Delmar Boulevard, 314-862-6100), a terrific locally owned shop that’s thriving even while Amazon muscles out its competitors.

The bar on the rooftop of the Moonrise Hotel offers a great view ... and drinks ‘til 3 a.m. photo by CALLIE REED/FLICKR

3 p.m.

See Where the Smart Kids Learn The handsome campus of Washington University in St. Louis is just a five-minute walk from the Loop; why not give it a stroll? Walk down Skinker past Forest Park so you first access the grounds via Brookings Drive — it’s quite a grand entrance. You could easily spend an hour eyeing the lovely buildings, but if you’re more destination-oriented, the Mildred Lane Kemper Art Museum (1 Brookings Drive, 314-935Continued on pg 18 4523) is conveniently located at

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Winslow’s Home offers farmto-table cuisine and a wide array of kitchen products, too. photo by Jennifer Silverberg

THE LOOP

9 p.m.

Watch Something Cool

Continued from pg 16

Skinker and Forsyth. It’s also totally free.

5 p.m.

Happy Hour Beckons If the weather is nice, get a table on the sidewalk in front of Three Kings Public House (6307 Delmar Boulevard, 314721-3388). The friendly gastropub offers reasonably priced sandwiches, appetizers and salads, plus a host of craft beers. Try not to stuff yourself just yet; dinner is still ahead.

7 p.m.

Dinner Time Numerous spots for a meal are in walking distance. Barbecue lovers can’t go wrong at Salt + Smoke (6525 Delmar Boulevard, 314-727-0200), while those who want a taste of the Middle East would be wise to visit Ranoush (6501 Delmar Boulevard, 314726-6874). Opened by a Syrian immigrant in 2009, the place offers spectacular hummus and shawarma.

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By this point, smart travelers have already booked tickets to whatever’s playing at the Pageant or Delmar Hall, sister venues on the Loop’s eastern edge that offer an impeccably curated lineup of bands. If not, why not see what’s playing at the Tivoli Theatre (6350 Delmar Boulevard, 314-727-7271)? The three-screen theater was built in 1924 and is now part of Landmark Theatres, which means smart films and special programming.

Beer and wine are most definitely available.

Follow the movie with a treat at Snow Factory (6602 Delmar Boulevard), a jumpin’ late-night spot that features pan-fry ice cream rolls à la Thailand.

11:30 p.m.

Time for a Nightcap If you’re staying on the Loop, you’re likely staying at the Moonrise Hotel (6177 Delmar Boulevard, 314-721-1111), a modern boutique right next door to the Pageant. And if the weather’s nice, why not end the evening

| CITY GUIDE 2017

with a nightcap on the rooftop bar? Hell, make it two nightcaps — they serve all the way until 3 a.m.

8 a.m.

Get Moving Start your morning right with a jog through Forest Park (5595 Grand Drive) — it’s a quick three-fourths of a mile from the Moonrise to the corner of Skinker and Lindell, and from there your paths are many. At 1,371 acres, Forest Park dwarfs Central Park by 500 acres; plan wisely.

10 a.m.

Caffeinate Yourself

Finish your time in the Loop at Blueprint Coffee (6225 Delmar Boulevard, 314-266-6808). Yes, it’s often crowded, but there’s a reason for that: Everyone working at this locally owned java hub knows their stuff. Single origin beans and knowledgeable baristas mean you won’t be getting just any cup of joe. Breakfast is also available.

tour one of st. louis’ grand spaces -

Central Library

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CENTRAL LIBRARY 1301 Olive St. I St. Louis, MO 63103 314-241-2288 I slpl.org

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CITY GUIDE 2017

| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O2/8/17 M 4:45 | PM 19

24 HOURS IN ST. CHARLES

BY KEVIN KORINEK

I

f you’re looking for an exciting weekend at a relaxed pace, look to downtown St. Charles for some charming sights and good times, with lots to do to keep all your senses engaged. St. Charles has a long history as a starting point for some of history’s greatest explorers. Now it’s your turn.

9 a.m.

Get into Position St. Charles’ main thoroughfare, which happens to be named Main Street, is a charming little cobblestoned street. Get your day started with a yoga class at Bluebird Yoga (416 S. Main Street, 636493-9293), one of the highest-rated yoga studios this side of the Missouri River, but get there early — classes fill quickly.

If you prefer caffeine before your cat-cow pose, stop by Picasso’s Coffee (101 N. Main Street, 636-925-2911) for a quick pour-over. The baristas there know the local culture and are quick to chat about all things coffee. You’ll be a regular in no time.

11 a.m.

Art Comes Alive

Now you’re off to explore the Foundry Art Centre (520 N. Main Street, 636255-0270), a curated art space fashioned inside a renovated train car factory from the 1920s. The 36,000-square-foot center is dedicated to showcasing and supporting local artists. Peruse sculptures, paintings and mixed media from some of the best creative minds in the Midwest.

12:30 p.m.

Ride Along You should take a stroll through Frontier Park to admire scenic views of the river, but no visit to St. Charles would be complete without surveying the Katy Trail. Hop over to Bike Stop Cafe (701 S. Riverside Drive, 636-724-9900) for an easy bike rental and hit the ground riding.

Enjoy a light lunch at the cafe after you return your wheels.

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St. Charles was Missouri’s first capital.

Strolling down Main Street you can see historical buildings dating back to the early 1800s. photo by kevin korinek

2 p.m.

Vintage Vibes Spend some time perusing antiques and hip collectibles at Joy’s Collective Market (600 S. Main Street) or browse a well-curated collection of new fiction at Main Street Books (307 S. Main Street, 636-949-0105). Celebrate your new finds with a cold beer on the sunny patio at Old Mill Stream Inn (912 S. Main Street, 636-946-3287), a vintage basement bar and a favorite local watering hole.

4 p.m.

Sweet Spots To satisfy the typical late-afternoon sugar fix, hike up to Fifth Street and grab a few scratch-made sweets at SugarBot Sweet Shop (433 Jackson Street, 314-961-9104) or French-style pastries at Sucrose (700 S. 5th Street, 314-288-9176).

7 p.m.

Good Eats

Prepare for a Celtic-inspired dinner at Llywelyn’s Pub (100 N. Main Street, 636-7248520). Try the Welsh potato chips and their award-winning pub burger while you sample from some of the finest whiskeys and 32 taps of craft beer from across the country.

9 p.m.

All Night Long If the night doesn’t end for you after dinner, saunter down the street to any of the

| CITY GUIDE 2017

hotspots that stay open ‘til the wee hours of the morning, where there’s no shortage of cover bands, DJs, pool tables and drink specials. Quintessential (149 N. Main Street, 636-443-2211) has dancing on its covered roof, but if you’re looking for something a bit more demure, try Kubrick’s (218 N. Main Street, back entrance, 636-248-3397), where you can play classic video games and enjoy hand-crafted cocktails.

11 p.m.

Hit the Sheets While affordable Airbnbs are available in a few historic homes, skip the crowdsourced closet space for some serious 19th-centurystyle digs at Boone’s Colonial Inn (322 S. Main Street, 636-493-1077). Stay in one of the four rooms that recreate a period setting (the Thomas Jefferson Suite has a nice ring to it) with natural pine flooring, handmade furniture and veranda views that overlook the Missouri River and Frontier Park.

9 a.m.

The Perfect Brunch Close out your perfect weekender by brunching at Prasino (1520 S. 5th Street, 636-2770202), with mimosas, bloody marys and their famous “Paris eggs benedict” — a pretzel croissant served with ham, brie and truffle hollandaise. If Lewis and Clark had had this much fun, they might never have made it to the West Coast.

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CITY GUIDE 2017

| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 21

See the ruins in Tower Grove Park. photo by paul sableman

24 HOURS IN SOUTH CITY

choice of delicious proteins, savory, panAsian inspired sauces, veggies, and rice or stir-fried glass noodles (our favorite).

2 p.m.

Get Juiced Up

BY JENN DEROSE

S

outh St. Louis is home to a diverse population that makes the area one of the most interesting places to visit in the greater region; in its six-block business district, South Grand alone boasts of representing fourteen countries and five continents.

Out-of-towners, too, may be shocked at how far their dollar will go here. Both drinks and food tend to be extremely reasonable.

A word of common-sense caution for travelers, though: Like anywhere worth visiting, south city isn’t a sterile, suburban environment.

Don’t leave anything you care about in your car and stick to the main streets if you’re a tourist.

12 p.m.

Lunch For a unique culinary experience, start your trip with a visit to Lona’s Lil Eats (2199 California Avenue, 314-925-1888).

We insist that you try a rice-paper wrap.

We know, that sounds like we’re tricking you into eating a light, healthy lunch, but in reality these wraps are massive, Qdoba burrito-sized spring rolls, stuffed with your

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You have a long day of fun ahead of you, and you just ate a baby-sized rice-paper burrito, so you’re going to need fuel. Get a caffeinated kick in the teeth from Kitchen House Coffee (3149 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-732-0009), the most adorable neighborhood coffee shop in St. Louis. Kitchen House Coffee has upcycled wooden décor, shelves stocked with books on sustainability and beekeeping, backyard chickens behind the shop and its own urban farm right down the street.

3 p.m.

Buy Yourself Something Pretty

Flowers and Weeds (3201 Cherokee Street, 314-776-2887) is to south city what the Jewel Box is to Forest Park. The shop transformed this once-depressing corner of Cherokee Street into a magical, lightdrenched, glittering escape from the city.

Dozens of terrariums hang from silver beams that crisscross their skylights, while air plants, cacti, carnivorous plants, succulents, interesting ceramics and assorted oddities cover every available surface. Build a tiny terrarium of your own for a souvenir, or pick up an interesting accessory, like earrings made from the vertebra of a python.

| CITY GUIDE 2017

5 p.m.

Game On

Head down to the Silver Ballroom (4701 Morganford Road, 314-832-9223) before it gets too crowded and have your pick of the coolest collection of pinball games in the city. Afterwards, take a short stroll down Morganford past the historic Bevo Mill (soon to open as a beer garden/brunch spot called Das Bevo) to admire the Sebilj (5000 Gravois Avenue), a stone-and-wooden monument celebrating the mutually beneficial relationship St. Louis has enjoyed with the thousands of Bosnian refugees who immigrated here in the early ‘90s.

7 p.m.

Proper Pizza Playing pinball works up a serious appetite for some serious pizza. Ignore the urge to eat at a St. Louis-style chain and either dip into Soulard for dinner at Pizzeoli Wood Fired Pizza Napoletana (1928 S. 12th Street, 314-449-1111) for a pie with a perfect crust, or head to Cherokee and enjoy a cheesy, sweet-sauced slice of doughy deliciousness, made-to-order by Master Pieza (2846 Cherokee Street, 314-899-9939).

8 p.m.

Drink the Whiskey Drink

The Whiskey Ring (2651 Cherokee Street, 314-669-5817) has earned its place as a favorite on the Cherokee strip, offering fancy Continued on pg 24 whiskey drinks,

hodak’s

a taste of our menu 1/2 Golden Fried Chicken Dinner ........................................... 8.55 Wing Appetizers ............................................................................ 7.50 Freshly Breaded Mushrooms ................................................. 6.35 8 oz Pork Chop Dinner ............................................................... 7.35 Chicken FriedChicken Dinner ................................................. 7.95 Charbroiled Salmon Dinner ................................................ 11.95 Black Angus Chopped steak dinner ..................................... 7.25

weekday luncheon specals only $7

2100 GRAVOIS AVE • 314.776.7292 HODAKS.COM • OPEN 7 DAYS CITY GUIDE 2017

| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 23

SOUTH CITY Continued from pg 22

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9 p.m.

Ice Cream and a Show

Stop by La Vallesana (2801 Cherokee Street, 314-776-4223) and grab a strawberries ‘n’ cream ice cream bar to devour while walking either east towards Blank Space (2847 Cherokee Street, 314-3008831) or west towards Foam (3359 S. Jefferson Avenue, 314-7722100). In either case you’ll find live music, art exhibits and other interesting events just about every night of the week.

1:45 a.m.

Late Libations and South Side Flavor

After last call, head to South Grand and visit Mangia Italiano (3145 S. Grand Boulevard) for a nightcap. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a few songs from the Dave Stone Trio, which has had a late-night Friday residency on the premises for seventeen years. Be sure to admire the incredible artwork by local legends Wayne St. Wayne and Bob Reuter while you’re there. Get a snack from their diverse and delicious latenight menu, or shuffle off to the greasiest greasy spoon around, The Buttery (3659 S. Grand Boulevard, 314-771-4443), for some solid jukebox tunes and a bizarre, but thoroughly entertaining, late-night crowd.

4 a.m.

Donut Hour

The night isn’t over until you’ve made a stop at John Donut (1618 S. Broadway, 314-241-3360). The shop opens for business at 11 p.m.

The earlier in the morning you make it, the better the chances that the old-fashioned cake donuts will be hot and fresh out of the oven.

“

“

If you must get some shuteye (or even just a shower), you can book an Airbnb near Tower Grove Park for $65 to $70 per night. Or stay in the pricier but lovely Casa Magnolia (4171 Magnolia Avenue, 314664-8702), a historic bed-and-breakfast less than one block from the park.

H A N D T OA S S E D P I Z Z A • F R E S H PA S TA • H O M E M A D E T OA S T E D R AV I O L I AU T H E N T I C I TA L I A N & G R E E K S P E C I A L I T I E S C A R RY - O U T S • C AT E R I N G • P R I VAT E PA RT I E S • O P E N 1 1 A M - 10 P M M O N DAY - S AT U R DAY

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5 a.m.

Never Sleep

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9 a.m.

Get Ruined

Walk off your hangover and wander across the street into Tower Grove Park (4256 Magnolia Avenue, 314-771-2679) to see the ruins and fountain, made famous by countless wedding photo shoots.

The ruins are actual, really real ruins, built with limestone blocks that Henry Shaw picked out from the remains of the Lindell Hotel after its 1867 fire.

11 a.m.

Bitchin’ Brunch

It’s an easy walk from Tower Grove Park to Treehouse (3177 S. Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100), where you can get a satisfying vegetarian brunch. Try the Desayuno Latino, or go traditional with the biscuits and gravy, hash, eggs benedict, or a slinger — St. Louis’ finest food (next to Red Hot Riplets, of course). Accompany your meal with the unusual, but delicious, kimchi bloody mary or fresh-squeezed juice — you’ll need a nutrient boost to recover from 24 hours on the south side.

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| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 25

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CITY GUIDE 2017

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[

E AT I N G

I N

T H E

C I T Y

]

Right Here, Right Now

Público has been a James Beard semi-finalist. photo by mabel suen

When dining in St. Louis in 2017, try one of these 10 hotspots that have the city buzzing.

BY CHERYL BAEHR

F

rom James Beard Award-winning chefs serving inspired Mediterranean fare to humble takeout joints that redefine Asian fusion, St. Louis is blessed with an abundance of eclectic dining options. Here are the places that are currently creating the most buzz.

Sardella (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314773-7755) Gerard Craft’s flagship Niche may have garnered him national acclaim — including a James Beard Award, just two years ago — but he closed the restaurant last June because it no longer represented his vision. In its place, he opened Sardella, an upscale yet approachable spot that takes traditional comfort recipes and gives them a fresh spin for three meals a day. Though not explicitly Italian, Sardella takes its cues from the Mediterranean with dishes like uni risotto balls, miso and ricotta ravioli and stout-braised oxtail.

Feast on those delights, or just take a seat in the shockingly lovely dining room and gorge yourself on homemade dinner rolls with black garlic butter.

Vista Ramen (2609 Cherokee Street, 314-797-8250) Here’s a secret that the folks at Vista don’t utter aloud: It’s not actually a ramen restaurant.

Sure, you’ll find ramen on the menu — four different types, in fact. However, chef Chris Bork is not married to tradition. Instead of carefully mimicking the masters, he uses the Japanese noodle soup as a jumping-off point for his own creations, including beef ramen with short ribs, pumpkin and kimchi or his out-of-this-world riff on pozole. Bork’s Asian-inflected assortment of small plates are as much of a draw as the soups, anchored by his crab caramel-glazed pork ribs.

Delectable.

Nixta (1621 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-899-9000) James Beard Award-nominated chef and restaurateur Ben Poremba may have cut his teeth on Mediterranean fare at his three oth-

er restaurants, but Nixta proves that he is just as comfortable with the flavors of the Western hemisphere. His latest concept, Nixta, is a culinary collaboration between Poremba and his former chef de cuisine at the elegant Elaia, Tello Carreon. A native of Guanajuato, Mexico, Carreon has mastered the art of updating traditional Mexican recipes with modern flavors and techniques. Look for dishes like sturgeon fajitas, duck carnitas and charred octopus. Finish with a nightcap in the adjacent Bar Limon, where Poremba has created a sultry atmosphere in hopes that his guests will get up and dance.

Kounter Kulture (3825 Watson Road, 314-7814344) On first glance, this tiny, takeout-only spot may not look like a bastion of modern cuisine, but the folks behind Kounter Kulture want you to question your assumptions. Owned by longtime friends Christine Meyer and Michael Miller, this south-city gem serves some of the town’s most exciting cuisine. Don’t let the passé term “Asian fusion” turn you off — Kounter Kulture has found a way to make the seemingly dated genre modern again, with dishes like a catfish po’boy steam bun that whispers Asian but screams Mississippi delta.

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Olive + Oak is the critics’ pick for 2016’s best new restaurant. photo by mabel suen

HOT SPOTS Continued from pg 29

Público (6679 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-833-5780) Seeing arepas and tacos listed on Público’s menu might make you think you’re at a conventional Mexican restaurant. Then they arrive, the former crowned with liver mousse, fried sage and maple syrup, the latter stuffed with roasted duck, salsa and duck fat mayo, and you realize this is a place like no other. Run by the acclaimed and daring chef Mike Randolph, Público was thrust into the national spotlight last year when it was nominated for the Best New Restaurant award by the James Beard Foundation. One taste of Randolph’s food, and it’s easy to see why. At Público, he cooks exclusively over a wood fire, giving the place a feel of a South American post-sundown beachside barbecue.

Guerrilla Street Food (3559 Arsenal Street, 314-529-1328) Filipino food is the cuisine of the moment, and Guerrilla Street Food makes clear why. The casual south city eatery got its start as a food truck, garnering a loyal following for its modern riffs on Filipino fare, including the “Flying Pig,” a rice bowl topped with slow roasted pork asado, calamansi, hoisin, fried garlic, sriracha and a one-hour sous vide egg. Now that it has a brick-and-mortar spot in the bustling

Kounter Kulture offers killer takeout. photo by mabel suen

South Grand district, owners Brian Hardesty and Joel Crespo have expanded their offerings, including a pig roast every Saturday that turns this strip of South Grand into a festive kamayan.

Olive + Oak (102 W. Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-736-1370) St. Louis’ dining critics were unanimous in their verdict in 2016: Olive + Oak was the best new restaurant in the city. Led by

veteran restaurateur Mark Hinkle and chef Jesse Mendica, the Webster Groves eatery checks every box that makes a great restaurant: thoughtful and impeccably executed cuisine, a contemporary bar program, an inviting atmosphere and warm service. Whether you’re having cheese curds and a burger or blue crab gratin with a 32-ounce prime rib eye, this wonderful eatery will have you dazzled.

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PO’BOY AWARD WINNING SWEET POTATO FRIES

WAFFLE

ST. LOUIS’

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626 N. 6TH ST. 32 |

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VietNam Style brings the cuisine of modern Saigon to Delmar East. photo by mabel suen

HOT SPOTS Continued from pg 31

Retreat Gastropub is a stylish choice, complete with a patio, in the Central West End. photo by mabel suen

Retreat Gastropub (6 N. Sarah Street, 314-2614497) From the Edison lightbulbs to housemade shrubs for the cocktails, this hip spot is a virtual checklist of every contemporary dining must-have. However, the serious substance on display animates the trends thanks to the outstanding craft cocktail program and excellent cuisine, including beet carpaccio, feta mousse and one of the city’s best pork chops. An evening at Retreat ably demonstrates why this style of dining is so hot right now.

Private Kitchen (8106 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-989-0283) One of the city’s most sought-after reservations is a hidden gem in Chinatown.

Private Kitchen is unlike any Chinese restaurant you’ve ever experienced. When you make your reservation, you select your multi-course dinner for the evening, allowing chef Lawrence Chen to put together a customized affair grand enough to deserve a Michelin star or two. The mystique that comes from ordering slow-cooked pork knuckles, Peking duck or sea cucumber rice without ever stepping foot in the restaurant adds a level of intrigue to Chen’s fiercely authentic food.

VietNam Style (6100 Delmar Boulevard, 314405-8438) If your idea of Vietnamese food is limited to pho and bánh mì, you’re in for a treat with VietNam Style. This humble storefront on the eastern edge of the Delmar Loop is known for its sizzling steak, a searing hot

platter of filet, pâté, a sardine and various accoutrements that is exactly what you might order at a modern Saigon café. Even if you’re not hungry for lunch, stop in for one of owner Thao Trung’s avocado smoothies and prepare to fall in love.

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IT’S A GOOD TIME FOR

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$6.99 $8.99

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HOOKED ON CLASSICS Newer isn’t always better. Get to know these twelve St. Louis restaurants that have stood the test of time.

BY CHERYL BAEHR

G

one are the days when St. Louis cuisine meant a kitschy set of local favorites or a mountain of overcooked pasta. The local restaurant scene is white-hot, and these days you can get just about anything you want at just about any time of day, from great Korean barbecue to ramen to sushi to feijoada.

However, the trailblazers that put our city on the map continue to define the dining landscape, remaining relevant even in a business notorious for change. While they vary in both age and level of formality, these places all have two things in common: They’ve been good places to eat out for years, and they remain good today.

Sidney Street Cafe (2000 Sidney Street, 314-771-5777) Thirteen years ago, chef Kevin Nashan took over an established meat-andpotatoes bistro in Benton Park and turned it into a temple of modern cuisine. His gamble paid off, as Sidney Street Cafe has remained one of the city’s top dining spots even as other restaurants have risen and fallen, garnering Nashan several nods from the James Beard Foundation for his elegant cooking. With an impeccable repertoire of dishes ranging from smoked trout crudo to rabbit porchetta, Sidney Street makes it clear that Nashan is at the top of the St. Louis culinary scene — yesterday, today and beyond.

Frank and Helen’s (8111 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-0666) This momand-pop pizzeria opened its doors 56 years ago, feeding a generation of regulars who would pass on the Frank & Helen’s tradition.

Not much has changed as the decades have gone by: Frank & Helen’s is still the place in town to experience St. Louis-style pizza, though you’ll see just as many folks line up for the incredibly succulent broasted chicken. This family-friendly eatery is etched into the history of University City, and from the looks of its busy dining room, will be for quite some time.

Cafe Natasha’s is a classic spot for Persian dishes. photo by jennifer silverberg

Crown Candy Kitchen (1401 St. Louis Avenue, 314-621-9650) Since 1913, this Old North neighborhood candy shop has been serving much more than its signature chocolate figures. This old-fashioned soda fountain is also known for its outstanding malts and sundaes — but you may not have room for dessert after eating the “Heart Stopping BLT,” a monster stuffed with at least fourteen pieces of bacon and good enough to make you forget all about the warning contained in its name.

Café Natasha’s (3100 South Grand Boulevard, 314-771-3411) This beloved

Persian eatery traces its history back over 30 years to a little cafeteria in a downtown office building. There, Hamishe and Behshid Bahrami began sneaking little bits of Persian cuisine onto their American menu, engendering a loyal following that has followed them all the way to their current location on South Grand. If you get just one thing, make sure it’s the beef shish kabob, tender pieces of beef marinated in a heavenly nectar that you’ll dream of replicating in every other kabob you eat for the rest of your life.

Grbic (4071 Keokuk Street, 314-772Continued on pg 36 3100) The jewel

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Broadway Oyster Bar offers a taste of the bayou. photo by JON GITCHOFF

CLASSICS Continued from pg 35

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of St. Louis’ large Bosnian community, Grbic features authentic Eastern-European cuisine, making it a must-visit for anyone who loves traditional cevapi. The Grbic family takes mainstay dishes and infuses them with an air of sophistication expected at an upscale restaurant. Stop in for stuffed cabbage, cauliflower schnitzel or goulash and get to know this important side of St. Louis history.

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McGurk’s (1200 Russell Boulevard, 314-776-8309) It’s hard to pin down what precisely makes McGurk’s so special, because there’s just so much going for it: the historic location in the heart of Soulard, the excellent Irish cuisine, the traditional Celtic music often performed live, the charming outdoor courtyard complete with a waterfall.

After an evening spent at this quintessential Irish pub, it’s clear why Esquire chose it as one of the best bars in the country.

B T B a a e p

Goody Goody Diner (5900 Natural Bridge Avenue, 314383-3333) This historic north-city diner has been serving its famous chicken and waffles to hungry patrons since the 1940s, and from the look of it, not much has changed since those days. From omelets to catfish and eggs, Goody Goody offers one of the city’s best classic breakfast spots, making it a must-stop for celebrities and politicians who come through town.

The Crossing (7823 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314721-7375) The restaurant scene has seen its fair share of changes since Jim Fiala opened his Clayton eatery in 1998.

And though trends have come and gone, the Crossing has remained, thanks to its refined fusion of French and Italian cuisine. Just take a bite of the luscious egg ravioli and you’ll see why this elegant spot has such staying power.

Herbie’s (8100 Maryland Avenue, Clayton;

P T t S w r P y

G J L c f s s w t

Timeless luxury.

314-769-9595) In some ways, Herbie’s is a new restaurant: It’s got a slightly changed name (no more “Vintage 72”) and new digs. But its roots still go back to 1972. Herbie’s is really the third iteration of the beloved institution Balaban’s, one of the St. Louis restaurant scene’s foundational concepts, and that tradition, including its famous beef Wellington, is wellhonored at the new Clayton location.

Broadway Oyster Bar (736 South Broadway, 314-621-8811) This raucous Cajun shack has been bringing a little bit of the Bayou to St. Louis for more than three decades. The vibrant atmosphere and bluesy music alone are enough to guarantee a good time, but Broadway Oyster Bar’s casual, yet perfectly executed, Cajun cuisine puts an exclamation point on the party.

The Cheshire takes pride in their luxurious accommodations and ensures that each guest is handled with a personal touch.

Enjoy modern amenities with complimentary breakfast and afternoon tea. Delight in dinner and cocktails at one of four on-site dining spots. Whether a weekend jaunt, business stay or family vacation the Cheshire makes certain your stay is convenient and comfortable.

6300 Clayton Road | St. Louis, MO | 314.647.7300 | CheshireSTL.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse (3106 Olive Street, 314-535-4340) That St. Louis barbecue is part of the national conversation is all thanks to Mike Emerson and the folks at Pappy’s Smokehouse.

Since opening in 2008, Pappy’s has become synonymous with world-class barbecue, thanks to Emerson’s dry-rubbed smoked ribs. But don’t take our word for it — peruse the photos of Pappy’s celebrity devotees while you’re waiting in line, and you’ll understand just how special this place is.

Gioia’s Deli (1934 Macklind Avenue, 314-776-9410) The James Beard Foundation has finally figured out what St. Louisans have known for decades: Gioia’s Deli is an American classic. This May, the century-old Italian deli will receive the foundation’s honor, thrusting the eatery and its “hot salami” sandwich into the national spotlight. The “Salam di Testa,” a secret family recipe akin to pâté, is sliced to order and served warm on crusty Italian bread. If St. Louis Italian food has a taste, this is it.

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Try one of St. Louis’ staple desserts at Gooey Louie. photo by eric frazier

The Taste of the Town St. Louis has a cuisine all its own. Here’s where to sample the culinary canon.

BY CHERYL BAEHR

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I

f you’re visiting St. Louis for the first time, you may be surprised to learn that not only does the Gateway City have its own style of pizza, but it also has a host of other foodstuffs that you just won’t find outside the metro area. Toasted ravioli, gooey butter cake, even the St. Paul sandwich are all pretty much exclusively St. Louis things — and they’re all delicious.

Here are nine quintessential St. Louis foods, as well as the best place in town to enjoy each one. Happy eating!

Gooey Butter Cake Legend has it that gooey butter cake came about because a baker made the mistake of accidentally doubling the butter in a yellow cake recipe. It may have been unintentional, but the gooey result has become the defining dessert of St. Louis. Enjoy either the classic version or one of several different varieties (including chocolate chip and raspberry) at St. Louis’ temple to butter cake at Gooey Louie (6483 Chippewa Street; 314-352-2253).

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Beast Craft BBQ proves that the finest pork steak in St. Louis is actually in Illinois. photo by mabel suen

Toasted Ravioli It’s hard to understand why such a perfect finger food has failed to make a splash outside the Gateway City, but for now, toasted ravioli remains a St. Louis-centric dish. For the best version of the golden-fried, meat-filled pillows, head to a place where they make them from scratch, like Lombardo’s Trattoria (201 S. 20th Street; 314-6210266). At this classic St. Louis spot, the t-ravs are shaped like half-moons; they’re also among the best in town.

St. Louis-Style Pizza Unless you’re a native St. Louisan, you’re likely to greet the city’s beloved thin pizza with a raised eyebrow. Suspend your closed-minded certainty about what pizza should be and surrender to this molten, thin-crust beauty at a classic mom-andpop joint like Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria (8111 Olive Street Road, University City; 314-997-0666). At Frank & Helen’s, if you’re not ready to try it with the signature stick-to-the-roof-of-your-mouth processed cheese called Provel, you can get the training-wheels version with good old mozzarella.

Slinger A hamburger smothered with eggs, hash browns, chili and cheese may sound like a bad decision, but it’s tailor-made for the morning after. Head to the city’s quintessential greasy spoon Eat-Rite

Diner (622 Chouteau Avenue; 314-621-9621) at 3 a.m., and you won’t be the only bleary-eyed patron trying to soak up the booze with this hearty local favorite after a night of imbibing.

Concrete No, this delicacy has nothing to do with pavement. The frozen custard dessert gets its name from a texture that is so thick, you can turn it upside-down after it’s served, and not a drop will drip out — that is, if it’s done right. For that, visit the city’s very favorite ice cream spot, the iconic Ted Drewes Frozen Custard (6726 Chippewa Street; 314-481-2652). Yes, there will be a line. But you’ll be amazed by just how fast it moves.

Pork Steak A staple of south-city barbecues, this marbled cut of pork shoulder is the definition of St. Louis-style barbecue. The pork is smothered in tangy, tomato-based sauce that’s usually both beer-spiked and paired with a Bud Heavy. If you’re inclined to venture 30 minutes east of the city, check out Belleville’s top-notch smokehouse Beast Craft BBQ (20 S Belt W, Belleville, Illinois; 618-257-9000). Or stay this side of the river to home and stuff yourself with the massive “Joe’s Backyard Pork Steak” at Gamlin Whiskey House (236 N. Euclid Avenue, 314-875-9500) — that is, unless you can score an invite to a game of washers in someone’s backyard.

St. Paul Sandwich Don’t be fooled by the name: This simple egg sandwich is a St. Louis original, not one from the Twin Cities. Duck into one of the city’s holein-the-wall chop suey joints to try the simple sandwich: an egg foo young patty topped with pickles, white onion, iceberg lettuce and mayonnaise. If they serve it to you on anything fancier than white bread, you’re not having the original, though the Rice House (8438 N. Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-837-0711) makes a good case for more haute versions.

Mayfair Dressing Downtown’s famous Mayfair Hotel may have come and gone, but the salad dressing concocted at its five-star restaurant remains a St. Louis tradition. Enjoy this rich, anchovy-laden cousin to Caesar at the St. Louis food-themed Circa STL (1090 Old Des Peres Road, Des Peres; 314-3941196).

Gerber Sandwich What’s better than cheesy garlic bread? Cheesy garlic bread topped with ham, of course. This open-faced sandwich is a molten mess of buttery garlic bread, Provel cheese, ham and a paprika garnish. Pair it with a local craft beer at the Gramophone (4243 Manchester Avenue, 314-5315700) for a true taste of the Gateway City.

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PORK BELLY PHOTO BY ED ALLER

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[

A R T S

I N

T H E

C I T Y

No Tickets?

No Problem

]

Ju Ming’s statue is among the climbable art at Citygarden. photo by henskechristine/flickr

Here’s what to do when you can’t do what you really want to do.

BY PAU L F R I S W O L D

S

o you want to see the symphony, catch a Cards game, get into a tiny little tram car and see the world at 630 feet. The only problem is you didn’t get your tickets fast enough.

Sold-out events are a fact of life, and nobody likes to get all dressed up and then find themselves sitting in the car desperately searching for a plan B. Don’t cry into your Budweiser. We got your plan B right here, pal (thrusts hips, points down to the list below).

1. Instead of the Symphony The St. Louis Symphony is a world-renowned orchestra that presents a healthy season of fan favorites, lesser-known gems and a glittering array of guest musicians and conductors. That means shows can sell out. But even if they do, you don’t have to go without great music. Scattered around the city and greater metro region are a host of options for fans of classical music.

Cathedral Concerts at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis (www.cathedralconcerts.org) offer a mix of touring groups and local musicians such as Tallis Scholars, the Vienna Boys Choir and sacred organ music and collegiate choirs.

The Bach Society of Saint Louis (www.bachsociety.org) performs choral music from Mozart, Rachmaninoff, Rutter and of course, Bach — this year the city-wide Bach Festival is back after a long absence. If chamber music is more your thing, you have options. The Chamber Music Society of St. Louis (www.chambermusicstl.org) presents small ensemble selections by Beethoven, Rosetti, Ravel and Prokofiev, while Chamber Project St. Louis (www.chamberprojectstl.org) is all about eclectic and modern music.

Mixed in with your Stravinskys and Beethovens you’ll get contemporary chamber music interpretations of everybody from Langston Hughes to Elvis.

2. Instead of a Cardinals Game When they’re hot, St. Louis Cardinals tickets

go quickly. If you absolutely live and die by the fortunes of them Birds (and already paid the mortgage to park), walk around the stadium to Ballpark Village (www.stlballparkvillage.com) where you can see the game on any size screen in about a half-dozen restaurants, with food that promises to be more affordable, even with tip, than nine innings of stadium fare. If it don’t mean a thing unless you’re seeing baseball with your own eyes, a short drive across the bridge gets you to Sauget, Illinois, where the Gateway Grizzlies (www.gatewaygrizzlies.com) play minor league ball in a sweet little bandbox of a stadium. Tickets are family-friendly and the view is great from anywhere. For $7 you can take sit just outside the outfield on a grassy lawn, and for $45 to $55 the whole family can go VIP on the party porch — you get wait staff to bring you Pepsi products or select A-B brews, wine or margaritas. That’s all included in the ticket price, as is the all-you-can-eat buffet.

3. Instead of a Show at the Fox When a hot show comes to town (coughcough, Hamilton), tickets will be scarce. But you don’t have to call it an early night. At the south end of the same block as the Fabulous Fox is the Kranzberg Arts Center (kranzbergartscenter.org), which holds a black box theater (home to Upstream Theater and numerous local theater companies on a one-off basis) and a studio space that hosts jazz groups and experimental music performances. Two blocks east sits .ZACK (kranzbergartsfoundation.org/zack), an arts incubator with a 202-seat proscenium theater that’s home to local theater companies R-S Theatrics, Tessearact Theatre, Insight Theatre Company and the Ignite Theatre Company. If nothing there strikes your fancy (jeez, you’re picky), the Marcelle Theatre is right around the corner. And New Line Theatre Company (www.newlinetheatre.com), which calls the Marcelle home, does nothing but rock & roll musicals (think American Idiot, Heathers, Assassins).

Continued on pg 44

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Urban Chestnut offers a craft beer version of the A-B tour. photo by jennifer silverberg

FREEBEES Continued from pg 43

4. Instead of the Gateway Arch It’s big, silvery and shiny, and it has elevator rides to the top, where a heavy wind makes it sway. During the summer those lines back up quite a ways, and as of press time, renovations had closed the inside of the Arch and the museum beneath it to repairs. If you can’t wait (either in line or for renovations to be complete), head to the south leg of the Arch and see the skyline the old-fashioned way — on a one-hour cruise down the Mississippi and back in replica steamboats the Becky Thatcher and the Tom Sawyer (www.gatewayarch.com). Tickets are more affordable than you think ($10 for kids, $20 for adults). Trips run March through December and give you a sense of both the Arch’s scale and the river’s.

5. Instead of the Muny The Muny (www.muny.org) is a massive, historic outdoor theater in Forest Park that hosts nothing but musicals during the summer — so yes, there will be sell-outs. But you don’t have to go far to see the show, because every performance offers 1,450 free seats in the last nine rows. Many families indulge in the entire season, because why not? Expose kids to the great American art form on a regular basis and they’ll be fans for life.

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6. Instead of the Saint Louis Art Museum Its motto is “Dedicated to art and free for all,” and the Saint Louis Art Museum delivers. The entire museum is free year-round, and even ticketed shows are free on Friday. But sometimes, the kids get antsy, and you get tired of saying “Don’t run,” “Lower your voice!” and “Don’t touch.” If they’ve clearly had enough, you can rush ‘em out the door to Art Hill (www.slam.org). You can’t miss it — it’s the big hill just below the statue of St. Louis.

Kids can roll, run, play tag, blog, whatever their thing is. If you really want to overload ‘em, lead them behind the museum and down a smaller hill to the Saint Louis Zoo (www.stlzoo.org). Admission is free every day, and the world-class zoo has everything from spotted hyenas to sea lions.

7. Instead of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery Tour The big daddy of American brewing offers yearround tours of its facilities (www.budweisertours. com) so you can see how the beer gets made and taste a free sample, too. But maybe, for whatever reason, you’re not into Bud. The rapidly growing Urban Chestnut Brewing Company (urbanchestnut.com) in the Grove lets you take a self-guided tour of its German bierhall and brewing facilities during regular hours. If you want a free tasting at the end, you can opt for the self-guided tour + tasting (you get a limited edition glass and four, five-ounce samples) or the guided tour + tasting on Saturday. It ain’t a bad way to spend an afternoon.

| CITY GUIDE 2017

8. Instead of Grant’s Farm The sprawling Busch family estate is an eye-opener (www.grantsfarm.com). Admission is free, and you can take a guided tram ride of the entire 201 acres — also free. There are animal exhibits, a barn that houses livestock, a rather fascinating display of horse tack and those world-famous Clydesdales. But if you show up to park and find yourself out of luck, the Magic House (www. magichouse.org) isn’t far away. It offers hundreds of hands-on exhibits that foster learning, such as the static electricity ball, a giant kaleidoscope, model trains that kids can operate and a big wall that lets youngsters make three-dimensional impressions of their whole bodies.

9. Instead of the City Museum You ain’t seen nothing like the City Museum (www.citymuseum.org). The four-story house of wonders has secret tunnels, a series of fauxtrees you can climb on (and behind), a cave system that extends under the first floor and a massive replica whale — and that’s just part of the ground floor. But in the summertime, those lines can get long, especially in the morning. If you’re looking for something free and open to the public, Citygarden (www.citygardenstl.org) is a short drive east and has a beguiling selection of large public art sculptures. Kids can physically interact with many of ‘em. The most popular one might just be Warren T. Byrd Jr.’s three fountains, where kids splash around in the spray plaza whenever it gets hot.

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A MUSIC LOVER’S GUIDE TO ST. LOUIS Here’s where to go to hear the sounds of the city.

BY DANIEL HILL

S

t. Louis is a music city, through and through. Not the Music City, of course — Nashville has long ago staked that claim for itself, though

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it would be more accurate if it specified that the music it’s referring to is mostly pop-country or Christian. But St. Louis can boast a rich history of the blues (there’s a reason the National Blues Museum is headquartered here), rock & roll (thanks to the father of the form himself, Chuck Berry) and even that mix of bro-country and hiphop that Nelly helps peddle nowadays (they can’t all be winners). In fact, according to a 2016 report by consumer website WalletHub, St. Louis is tied with only Las Vegas for “most music venues per capita” out of the whole nation.

Indeed, on any given week in St. Louis, you have literally hundreds of options to choose from if you want to catch a show.

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Below you’ll find a list of 35 venues, sorted by neighborhood, at which to discover the wealth of music St. Louis has to offer.

While this roundup is not comprehensive — there are so many venues in town that no roundup ever will be — it should make it easier for you to get out of the house and find some music you love right in your own backyard.

DOWNTOWN AND SOULARD Downtown St. Louis offers a plethora of music options, especially of the blues variety. Many Soulard watering holes, such as Howards (2732 S. 13th Street, 314-3492850) and Hammerstone’s (2028 S. 9th Street; 314-773-5565), consistently serve

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Jazz at the Bistro. photo by mabel suen

Delmar Hall is a new venue on the edge of the Loop, perfect for seeing up-and-coming bands. photo by holly ravazzolo

MIDTOWN

up live music alongside cold drinks. The St. Louis blues triangle, consisting of BB’s Jazz Blues & Soups (700 S. Broadway, 314436-5222), Beale on Broadway (701 S. Broadway, 314-621-7880) and Broadway Oyster Bar (736 S. Broadway, 314-6218811), offers options for blues fans — if any one of the three isn’t hosting an act you like, it is a fair bet that one of the others is, in easy walking distance. Old Rock House (1200 S. 7th Street, 314-588-0505) hosts touring acts playing everything from rock to country to hip-hop, and Ballpark Village (601 Clark Avenue, 314-345-9481) warms up the winter with its Hot Country Nights series, as well as bringing big-name rock and country acts to town in the summer.

Especially around Grand Center, Midtown overflows with live music options. Powell Hall (718 N. Grand Boulevard, 314-534-1700) is the home of the St. Louis Symphony — go here to hear some of the country’s most talented musicians perform classical music under the direction of acclaimed conductor David Robertson. The Stage at KDHX (3524 Washington Avenue, 314-925-7556) hosts live music much like you might expect from the station — folk, rock, roots music, bluegrass, etc. Once the second largest theater in the whole country, the Fabulous Fox Theatre (527 N. Grand Boulevard, 314534-1111) features live music in addition to its many stage productions and standup comedians — standouts on the books this year include John Legend and Santana. Jazz at the Bistro (3536 Washington Avenue, 314571-6000), unsurprisingly, is headquarters for jazz fans in St. Louis. The Firebird (2706 Olive Street, 314-535-0353) regularly brings touring acts of the rock, hip-hop and metal varieties, as well as St. Louis’ popular An Under Cover Weekend series.

Fubar (3108 Locust Street, 314-289-9050) is primarily home to punk, hardcore and metal, with rock shows and hip-hop acts filling the calendar between the more hard-edged stuff. Schlafly Tap Room (2100 Locust Street, 314-241-2337) is a brewpub that regularly hosts three- and four-band

local bills of every genre from folk to noise — which is to say, pretty much every genre (best of all, shows are always free). .Zack (3224 Locust Street, 314-533-0367), the new multi-purpose space in the building where Plush once sat, will also feature live music once it is fully operational. Chaifetz Arena (1 S. Compton Avenue, 314-9775000), a 10,000-seat affair on the campus of Saint Louis University, brings in big names in every genre from rap to country to standup comedy.

CHEROKEE STREET Cherokee Street might contain the highest concentration of live music venues in town, with ten spots over the span of eleven blocks. Here are the highlights. Foam Coffee & Beer (3359 S. Jefferson Avenue, 314772-2100) provides live music every night of the week, from experimental music to garage-rock and everything in between. The Luminary (2701 Cherokee Street, 314-7731533) regularly hosts its LAB series of events focusing on boundary-pushing local artists, providing its space as a kind of blank canvas for local musicians to dress up in their art as they see fit. 2720 Cherokee Performing Arts Center (2720 Cherokee Street, 314875-0233) brings EDM acts, jam bands, hiphop and more (not to mention RKDE, an oldschool arcade/ bar concept that has proven very popular since debuting last year). Blank Space (2847 Cherokee Street, 314-3008831) is kind of tricky to describe — by its definition it is undefinable, serving as host to anything and anyone that comes along without much in the way of curation — but it frequently serves as a home for St. Louis’ underground hip-hop scene, with multiple monthly events Continued on pg 50

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RYSE Nightclub has drawn EDM stars including Steve Aoki. photo by kelly glueck

MUSIC GUIDE

THE GROVE

Continued from pg47

serving the genre. San Loo (3211 Cherokee Street, 314-696-2888) styles itself as a punk bar, but regularly features everything from rock to punk to roots music.

THE LOOP The Loop is home to one of St. Louis’ bestknown music venues, the Pageant (6161 Delmar Boulevard, 314-726-6161), which regularly tops lists of the best live music venues in the country. The Pageant largely brings bigger-name commercial acts that draw big crowds. Right next door is Delmar Hall (6133 Delmar Boulevard, 314-7266161), just opened last year by the Pageant’s owners as a kind of stepping stone between its larger neighbor and the smaller Duck Room at Blueberry Hill (6504 Delmar Boulevard, 314-727-4444). All three venues bring artists of the rock, punk, hip-hop, indierock and metal varieties, among others.

Cicero’s (6681 Delmar Boulevard, 314-8620009) has long been a home for local jam bands, as well as indie-rock and hip-hop.

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With the Gramophone no longer focusing on music and the shuttering of the Demo, the Grove is not as densely packed with live music as it was just a couple years ago, but the venues that remain are of the highest caliber. The Bootleg (4144 Manchester Avenue, 314-775-0775) is the venue portion of Atomic Cowboy (4140 Manchester Avenue, 314-775-0775), which has its own massive outdoor stage as well. Both feature rock, indie-rock and hip-hop from local and national artists. The Ready Room (4195 Manchester Avenue, 314-833-3929), with its capacity of 800, regularly books upand-coming and established acts that have outgrown the likes of the Firebird — hip-hop, rock, metal, punk, indie-rock and more are regularly represented.

SOUTH CITY (GENERAL) South city is filled with venues — many of them covered already in the Cherokee Street section. Just outside of that street, though, is Off Broadway (3509 Lemp Avenue, 314498-6989), a longtime home for folk, roots music, indie rock and more. Heavy Anchor (5226 Gravois Avenue, 314-352-5226) offers

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live music from local acts on the regular, as well as standup comedy and the occasional movie night. The Way Out Club (2525 Jefferson Avenue, 314-664-7638) has long been St. Louis’ home for the weird and wild; local acts can regularly be found here as well. The Sinkhole (7423 S Broadway, 314328-2309) aims to be a hub for St. Louis’ DIY scene, with punk and garage-rock artists, both national and local, regularly performing.

THE COUNTIES Some of the bigger venues in the St. Louis area that host big-name acts are found outside of city limits. Ameristar’s RYSE Nightclub (1 Ameristar Blvd., St. Charles; 636-946-7973), a new club that has already played host to some big-name EDM acts, including Steve Aoki, is open every Saturday in St. Charles.

Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre (14141 Riverport Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-2989944), better known to most longtime St. Louisans as “Riverport,” hosts huge concerts such as Warped Tour and Pointfest in the summer months. And Pop’s Nightclub (401 Monsanto Avenue, Sauget, Illinois; 618-2746720) is regularly home to metal, rock and rap acts both local and national.

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THANK YOU

Art recently on display at the Kemper Art Museum: Rosalyn Drexler (American, b. 1926), Self-Portrait, 1964.

Acrylic and paper collage on canvas, 40 x 30”. Collection of Beth Rudin DeWoody. © 2017 Rosalyn Drexler / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York.

St. Louis for Voting Us

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and For Your Support of Local & Independent Restaurants

Tues-Thurs & Sun: 11am-9pm • Fri & Sat 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Drive • 314.645.2835 • www.maileestl.com

The Art of It All An art lover’s guide to the best galleries and exhibit spots in St. Louis.

BY ALISON SIELOFF

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t a recent talk at the Bruno David Gallery, artist Leslie Laskey invited those assembled to consider two key questions: “Why do you come to see art? Why are you here?” Artist Jill Downen offered an answer during her portion of the talk. “Art is a form of communication,” she said, and people who view it are seeking a connection.

Downen couldn’t be more accurate: When we look at art, we’re not merely observers. We are having a dialogue with an artist’s vision, absorbing what we see and reacting to the work.

If you’re paying attention, you can have these kinds of conversations with art all over St. Louis. You’ll find creative expression on university campuses during student shows, at event spaces/galleries — including the Koken Art Factory, Third Degree Glass Factory, Mad Art Gallery and Event Space, and Blank Space — at art-focused eateries like the recently relocated Dark Room, at art fairs and craft fairs, and, of course, at local artists’ studios, which are dotted throughout the metropolitan area.

Entire streets and districts lend themselves to these exchanges as well.

A stroll down Cherokee Street offers the thrilling, unpredictable feel of an ever-evolving art project, a sense also being cultivated through the Granite City Art and Design District across the river. Less obvious St. Louis attractions also invite this conversation, from the fearlessly surrealistic City Museum to the eclectic World Chess Hall of Fame.

Though we’ve recently lost some forward-thinking spaces — RIP, Fort Gondo Compound for the Arts and White Flag Projects — more than enough places allow you to immerse yourself in art, whether you’re an art

ists from all over, while highlighting the work of local talents, too, through the Great Rivers Biennial Arts Award Program and events like the Open Studios STL tours.

Craft Alliance Center of Art + Design (6640 Delmar Boulevard, 314-725-1177 and 501 North Grand Boulevard, 314-534-7528) Expect to see beautifully imagined craft arts in varied media, with a bit of elevated quirk thrown in on occasion; if inspiration strikes, classes also are offered.

Des Lee Gallery (1627 Washington Avenue, 314621-8735) Home to Washington University student and faculty exhibits, this contemporary gallery also shows intriguing works by artists known the world over.

Duane Reed Gallery (4729 McPherson Avenue, 314-361-4100) Established in 1994, this contemporary gallery holds its own among its artsy neighbors along McPherson in the Central West End, presenting several eye-catching shows featuring artists working in various media each year.

Duet (3526 Washington Avenue, Suite 300; 314478-4776) Exhibitions here juxtapose differing viewpoints by pairing pieces by a St. Louis artist with ones by someone in another community.

Foundry Art Centre (520 N. Main Center, St. Charles; 636-255-0270) This train-car factory turned studio and event/exhibition space offers opportunities to both interact with working artists and check out themed juried shows.

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Insufficent Data, a piece recently on display at Craft Alliance.

Terry M. Boyd

liker, a lover or a collector, and whether you’re seeking inspiration or just something unexpected. Get out there.

Art Saint Louis (1223 Pine Street, 314-241-4810) The juried multimedia shows here highlight St. Louis-area artists and focus on various broad themes — think light, experiences and feelings.

Atrium Gallery (4814 Washington Avenue, 314-367-1076) This mainstay in the local gallery scene — operating for more than 30 years — specializes in exhibitions of contemporary large-scale sculptures and paintings by artists from all over.

Bruno David Gallery (7513 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-696-2377) Representing several cel-

ebrated local contemporary artists working in a variety of media, this gallery also has an additional exhibition space, Bruno David Projects (1245 South Vandeventer Avenue), open by appointment only.

Citygarden (801 Market Street, 314-241-3337) Locals killing time downtown during jury duty breaks and visitors to St. Louis enjoy exploring this manicured outdoor sculpture garden that includes works by Donald Baechler, Jim Dine, Laura Ford, Keith Haring, Julian Opie and more.

Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis (CAM) (3750 Washington Boulevard; 314-5354660) A neighbor to the Pulitzer Arts Foundation, this non-collecting, Brad Cloepfil-designed museum features exhibitions by significant art-

Gallery 210 (44 Arnold B. Grobman Drive on the campus of the University of Missouri-St. Louis, 314516-5976) Founded 45-plus years ago with the goal of bringing regional art to this university campus, this space aims to be reflective of the community as it addresses contemporary topics.

Hoffman LaChance Contemporary (2713 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-960-5322) What this gallery lacks in size, it makes up for in the quality of its frequently changing, thoughtful exhibits that feature both local and non-local artists.

Houska Gallery (4728 McPherson Avenue, 314496-1377) This pocket-size gallery, across the street from several others in the Central West End, offers works by its namesake, artist Charles Houska, along with shows and pieces by various established St. Louis artists.

International Photography Hall of Fame and Museum Continued on pg 54

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p r o f e s s i o na l p e r f o r m a n c e o r g a n i z a t i o n

U N D E R T H E A R T I ST I C D I R E C T I O N O F A S H L E Y L . TAT E blending modern, jazz, and contemporary training with urban street dance.

CHOREOGRAPHY • PERFORMANCES • CLASS INSTRUCTION WORKSHOPS • PRIVATE LESSONS ASHLEYLIANE.COM • 314-346-3187

Bulawsky Newspaper on display at Sheldon Art Galleries. lisa bulawsky

ART IN THE CITY Continued from pg 53

RAIN-A Tribute to the Beatles

w March 5

CABARET w March 7-19 MOTOWN THE MUSICAL w March 21-26 THE ILLUSIONISTS w March 31 – April 2 Disney’s THE LION KING w April 19-May 7 DIRTY DANCINGThe Classic Story On Stage w May 12-14 RENT w May 19-21 MAMMA MIA! w July 28-30 The Fox Theatre presents a wide variety of entertainment.

Visit FabulousFox.com for a full calendar.

MetroTix.com • 314-534-1111 527 North Grand, St. Louis 54 |

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(3415 Olive Street, 314-535-1999) With the work of more than 500 artists in its permanent collection, this museum presents rotating photographs through the ages, and equipment, too. For more photography, check out the May Gallery (8300 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-246-7673), located on the Webster University campus.

Jacoby Arts Center (627 East Broadway, Alton, Illinois; 618-462-5222) This community arts spot features exhibitions of local artists and community members alike, along with concerts, theater, classes and more.

Jill A. McGuire Gallery at the Regional Arts Commission (RAC) (6128 Delmar Boulevard, 314-863-5811) Locally driven and proud, this space highlights diverse voices and perspectives through community-centric, and sometimes non-traditional, shows.

Laumeier Sculpture Park (12580 Rott Road, Sunset Hills; 314-615-5278) An expansive outdoor sculpture park, with an indoor gallery, too, Laumeier showcases works by Mark di Suvero, Donald Judd, Sol LeWitt, Alexander Liberman, Ernest Trova and others, both in wide open spaces and tucked among the trees.

The Luminary (2701 Cherokee Street, 314-773-1533) A nimble, experimental artist-run space, the Luminary not only hosts various exhibitions and concerts throughout the year, but it also supports artists through a residency program and subsidized studios.

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Part of a recent show at the Sheldon: Frank Trankina, Dream Cabinet, 2010. Oil on linen, 62 x 48 inches. courtesy of the artist.

Mildred Lane Kemper Art Museum (1 Brookings Drive, 314-935-4523) One of the oldest teaching museums in the country, the Kemper was founded in 1881 and boasts an impressive modern art collection, vibrant exhibits and enriching supporting programs in a cool, Fumihiko Maki-designed space.

Millstone Gallery at the Center of Creative Arts (COCA) (524 Trinity Avenue, University City; 314-725-6555) Regional contemporary artists show here, surrounded by all sorts of creative expression, from dance to theater to song and more.

Museum of Contemporary Religious Art (MOCRA) (3700 West Pine Mall Boulevard, 314977-7170) Housed in a former chapel, this contemplative, interfaith museum on the campus of Saint Louis University exhibits art with themes that speak to the spiritual, without any proselytizing.

Philip Slein Gallery (4735 McPherson Avenue, 314-361-2617) This contemporary art gallery complements its neighbors in the Central West End, showcasing bold painters with an eye for color. projects+gallery (4733 McPherson Avenue, 314-

696-8678) Surrounded by contemporary art galleries, this space fits right in while introducing a bit of a twist, by focusing on other artistic endeavors, including remarkable fashion pieces, that often aren’t given the exhibition treatment.

media, and the recently added, David Chipperfield-designed wing for modern and contemporary art is home to various special ticketed exhibitions throughout the year.

Pulitzer Arts Foundation (3716 Washington Boulevard, 314-754-1850) The Tadao Ando-designed Pulitzer presents long-running exhibitions of works in varying media, from varying time periods and of varying themes, plus engaging poetry readings, classes and more. Free midday tours are offered in conjunction with its neighbor CAM.

Saint Louis University Museum of Art (3663 Lindell Boulevard, 314-977-6631) Check out the third floor of this historic building for a look into Jesuit mission life in the 1800s; wind through several small galleries on the second floor for modern and contemporary art, including pieces from Chihuly, Picasso, Warhol and others; and visit the first floor for exhibitions that span various media, styles and time periods.

St. Louis Artists’ Guild and Galleries (12 N. Jackson Avenue, Clayton; 314-727-6266) Founded in 1886, the guild has been a steadfast champion for regional artists, providing both classes and opportunities to show their work in frequently changing juried exhibits on a variety of themes.

Sheldon Art Galleries (3648 Washington Boulevard, 314-533-9900) Adjacent to the historic Sheldon Concert Hall, these six galleries focus on various diverse themes — music, photography and local art among them — and regularly present noteworthy exhibits.

Saint Louis Art Museum (1 Fine Arts Drive in Forest Park, 314-721-0072) It’s easy to spend an entire day exploring the comforting permanence of this city museum, founded in 1879 — the café and restaurant on site can provide sustenance.

The collection ranges from ancient art to new

William Shearburn Gallery (665 S. Skinker Boulevard; 314-367-8020) Showing well-known St. Louisans and internationally recognized artists too, this gallery offers few, but memorable, exhibitions throughout the year.

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Oh, the Places You’ll Go A dozen St. Louisans let us in on their favorite hidden gems. Why not use it to explore the city?

BY ERIC BERGER

H

ow many times can you take out-oftown guests to the City Museum? You can only go on so many first dates to Sasha’s Wine Bar before your companions start to notice that the whole staff knows you. And no matter how unfathomable it may seem, there is a point where your energetic children will get tired of running around in Forest Park.

For all those reasons and more, it is crucial that you find some new spots around town. To be sure, Tower Grove Park, the view into Busch Stadium from Three Sixty and the two free beers on the Anheuser-Busch Brewery tour are all very nice, but you don’t have to be Christopher Columbus to find them. We wanted to dig a little deeper.

We asked some of our smartest business owners, artists, musicians, restauranteurs and even the mayor to share their favorite hidden gems around St. Louis. Yeah, we know; now they won’t be so hidden any more. But if we can help just one person find a new favorite, we’ll consider our efforts worth it.

Responses have been edited for space and clarity.

“The Central Library downtown (1301 Olive Street, 314-241-2288) is a gem hiding in plain sight. Step inside under the stunning architecture outside and prepare to be awed by the ornate details and welcoming public spaces inside.

The $70 million renovation in 2012 is something every St. Louisan — and visitor — should make a point to see.” – Francis Slay, mayor of St. Louis “As a reporter, I am always on the hunt for the next big story — and my next cup of coffee. St. Louis has no shortage of incredible coffee shops.

I love each of them, but a new favorite combines great coffee with a great story. Silo Coffee +

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Get lost in the Central Library downtown , Mayor Slay’s pick .

PHOTO BY KELLY GLUECK

Goods (4818 Washington Avenue, 314-312-3497) is essentially a gourmet coffee cart housed inside the TechArtista co-working spot in the Central West End. You blink and you might miss their sign outside on Washington Boulevard. They serve excellent pour-overs and espresso drinks, and a portion of the sales fund clean water projects. Grab a spot at the bar facing the window and watch the many faces of the neighborhood go by. It’s a coffee shop that’s making an impact not just by fueling the community, but making a major impact across the globe.” – Alexis Zotos, general assignment reporter at KMOV (Channel 4) “Flowers & Weeds (3201 Cherokee Street, 314776-2887) has an outdoor garden that’s very nice to walk around in. Gooseberries (2754 Chippewa Street, 314-577-6363) on weekdays can be very quiet and chill. The preserves and spice aisles at Jay’s International Food Company (3172 S. Grand Boulevard, 314-772-2552) are very peaceful happy places where you can find a weird food item to try.” – Chris Baricevic, founder of Big Muddy Records

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“I’m in love with Gokul Indian Restaurant (6101 Delmar Boulevard, 314-721-1888). It’s 100 percent vegetarian with a lunch and dinner buffet Wednesday through Monday. Also, Monday night is their special vegan buffet night. I don’t consider myself a full-blown vegetarian, but the food is delicious and I’m there so much that if I miss a week, the staff playfully questions my absence. It’s easily overlooked as it’s on the Skinker-DeBaliviere side of the Loop. But Gokul has filled my belly in fifteen minutes or less, giving me an opportunity to get a meal when work has eaten most of my time. Also, John Donuts (1618 S. Broadway, 314-241-3360) has the best plain cake donuts — cause Syna So dislikes that fancy donut shit.” – Syrhea Conway is Syna So Pro, “a one-woman musical enigma” “A big part of what Big Shark does in the community is programming. One of the hardest aspects of planning and executing local events is finding venues — and this has led us to really explore the region and its network of parks and municipalities. On the top of our list as a hidden Continued on pg 60 gem is the River’s

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dolmades A Greek Classic. Grape leaves stuffed with a mixture of seasoned ground beed and rice. $11.99

shish kebob plate This is why we’re called a kebob house. Our special recipe shish kebob.

Marinated cubes of pork, chicken or lamb, served on a bed of rice pilaf and garnished with pita bread. Lamb $14.99/Chicken $13.99/Pork $12.99 moussaka Our version of Greece’s famous culinary delight. Tender slices of eggplant and potatoes, layered with seasoned ground beef, onions and tomatoes. Topped with grated cheese and Bechamel ( a light sauce made with butter, cheese, milk and eggs). $11.99 baklava The world famous aristocrat of pastry desserts. Chopped walnuts and spices layered with delicate leaves of filo pastry topped with a cinnamon flavored honey syrup. $4.99 galatobourako A delicate custard pastry topped with honey syrup, baked in a crisp crust of filo pastry leaves. Highly recommended! $4.99 kourambeathes Greek wedding cookies coated with powdered sugar.

So delicious they melt in your mouth. 4 for $4.99 rice pudding Creamy rice pudding sprinkled with cinnamon. $4.99

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around a little walkway near the historic wrought-iron bridge — the one you see wedding couples always taking their pictures on.”

– Tamara Keefe, owner of Clementine’s Creamery “My hidden gem is BB’s Jazz, Blues and Soups (700 S. Broadway, 314-436-5222). It offers a casual and unique atmosphere that’s perfect for listening to music, talking with friends and eating good food. My wife Apryll introduced me to BB’s, and it’s become our favorite date-night spot.” – Anthony Kiekow, public relations manager for the St. Louis Symphony

PLACES

Continued from pg 58 Edge Trail in Columbia Bottoms Conservation Area (801 Strodtman Road, 314-877-6014).

Located, literally, where the mighty Mississippi and Missouri rivers collide, the trail is about 3.5 miles long and is on the very edge of the Missouri River banks. Walking next to moving water is always powerful, and the trail is always dynamically changing. Eagles and shore birds abound, and it makes you recall the importance of the great rivers to the history of St. Louis.” – Mike Weiss, owner, Big Shark Bicycle Co. “It is inaccurate to call it hidden, but the American Bottom (theamericanbottom.org) as a concept has been invisible even to many of its occupants. Bracketed by the confluence of the Mississippi River and Missouri River to the east down to the Kaskaskia River, the region encompasses a series of complex sites, from cultural landmarks such as the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Midwest, at Cahokia Mounds (30 Ramey Street, Collinsville, Illinois, 618-346-5160), to Miles Davis’ childhood home (1701 Kansas Avenue, East St. Louis, Illinois, 618-213-8120), contemporary art interventions such as Granite City Art and De-

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“Guido’s Pizzeria & Tapas (5046 Shaw Avenue, 314-771-4900).

Disclaimer: You have to like St. Louis-style pizza. I cannot speak to anything on the menu other than their pizza, but that alone is more than enough. The ingredients are all fresh, and you can The Cahokia Mounds are James McAnally’s order a mix of Provel and moz“hidden gem” in the metro area. zarella cheese. My other favorite PHOTO BY MICHAEL DOLAN part of Guido’s is going and sitting on their patio in the spring. sign District (1800 block of State Street, Granite I can’t think of a better combination than good City, Illinois) or the oldest African-American pizza and beer enjoyed outside.” – Ellen Prinzi, incorporated town in the United States, in founder and CEO of Olio City, a city exploration app Brooklyn, Illinois. The Bottom makes our region’s history visible far beyond our city’s “The prairie restoration at Donald Danforth bricks and complicates our often limited view Plant Science Center (975 N. Warson Road, of our own place.” – James McAnally, founder 314-587-1000) is a demonstration of getting and co-director of nonprofit art gallery and organi- back to the native plants in our region that zation the Luminary support the natural ecosystem. It is also beautiful. It’s in its developmental stages at the mo“At first I was tempted not to tell, as I would ment, but it is coming along very nicely. They hate for it to no longer be hidden, but they de- have wonderful walking paths through it so serve a shout-out. When I’m not working in that people who love flowers or love critters the Grove, my favorite hang is hands-down can walk through it and enjoy what some of Tamm Avenue Grill (1227 Tamm Avenue, 314- the St. Louis area looked like before develop261-4902). The Cheers-style neighborhood vibe ment.” – Cindy Collins, owner and landscape deis quite comforting, and it’s one of the few signer at Hartke Nursery places you can go to escape the famed St. Louis question, ‘What high school did you go to?’ “I’m a huge fan of Gus’s World Famous Dogtown patio, bags, adult beverages and good Fried Chicken (7434 Manchester Road, Maplecompany on a nice warm day — you can’t beat wood; 314-899-9899). The best! Mouthwatering that in St. Louis!” – Drew Jameson, talent buyer spicy fried chicken that nothing else compares at the Atomic Cowboy and guitarist and harmonica to in the culinary world, plus that great sweet player in Grass Fed Mule tea and fried pickles. All they need are additional parking spaces!“ – Chris Conroy, assistant “My favorite hidden gem is of course in Lafay- athletic trainer, St. Louis Cardinals ette Park (2023 Lafayette Avenue). The grotto is not only super romantic and private, but serene and peaceful. It’s hidden from public view

| CITY GUIDE 2017

Maplewood * Creve Coeur Post 3 coming soon

GREAT STORIES HAPPEN HERE 2017 Festival Season May 20 – June 25 Madame Butterfly The Grapes of Wrath The Trial Titus (La clemenza di Tito)

Tickets on Sale Now

OperaStories.org CITY GUIDE 2017

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NIGHT OWLS, UNITE Not everyone in St. Louis goes to bed early. Here’s where to find good times and good grub after midnight.

BY DOYLE MURPHY

T Bringing world-class dance to the St. Louis region for more than 50 years.

314.534.6622 DANCESTLOUIS.ORG 62 |

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| CITY GUIDE 2017

he darkness comes for us all, so why not enjoy it?

Whether you’re stretching last call, peddling into the wee hours of the morning or hunting for some food to soak up the booze, St. Louis has plenty to offer after night falls. You just need to know where to go.

Start with the bars. Fun-killing liquor ordinances force most drinking establishments to close at 1:30 a.m., but there remain a healthy sprinkling of 3 a.m. spots that specialize in the nightcap. These stamina testers fill up in the final 90 minutes, but they are perfectly good for an earlier arrival, too.

Make a night of Mike Talayna’s Juke Box Restaurant (1115 Hampton Avenue, 314-647-7600). The Dogtown gem has all the charm of a tire shop from the outside, but that’s nothing

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want to check out PinUp Bowl (6191 Delmar Boulevard, 314-727-5555).

Roll until 2 a.m. surrounded by 1940s-era kitsch in the Delmar Loop bowling alley.

The kitchen closes at the same time as the lanes, and you’ll still have another hour to gather yourself in the bar before they throw you out.

Downtown’s Flamingo Bowl (1117 Washington Avenue, 314-436-6666) keeps the same hours for your bowling pleasure.

The classy “Ping Pong Parlor” in the basement at Brennan’s (4659 Maryland Avenue, 314-497-4449) combines one of the Central West End’s great bars with one of the world’s underappreciated athletic pursuits, elevating both.

The deep red tables are set cinematically against dark stone walls with a black-andwhite print of Muhammad Ali punching Joe Frazier in the mouth for inspiration. Closing time is 1 a.m., so be swift, be decisive, be victorious.

Eat-Rite Diner serves hungry But maybe you’re the type customers all night long. who likes actual, widelyphoto by theo welling recognized-as-exercise activities. Sign up for the more than the perfect disguise for the neon Moonlight Ramble (moonlightramble. insanity waiting inside. Dozens of disco balls com). Started in 1964 with just one rider, spray pink-purple light across a nightclub the annual bike ride now attracts thousands dance floor worthy of its spectacle-loving, of cyclists for a midnight cruise through city champion-jitterbug-dancing namesake, the streets. The route shifts year-to-year and is late Mike “Talayna” Faille. Sing karaoke, kept secret, adding to the intrigue. It is not dance and eat pizza until you stagger back a race — more like a bicycle love fest or a into the outside world wondering what the rolling costume party. Riders have until 3 a.m. to ramble either 10.5 or 18.5 miles. The hell happened.

For something a little less disco, join the sooner you finish, the sooner you can hit the regular procession of south siders to Mangia after-party.

Of course, there’s something to be said (3145 S. Grand Boulevard, 314-664-8585) in Tower Grove South. It’s a pretty solid Italian for sitting on your ass in front of a giant restaurant that stays up later than the other movie screen. Late Nite Grindhouse at South Grand eateries, morphing subtly Moolah Theatre and Lounge (3821 Lindell toward low-key party spot as the night goes Boulevard, 314-446-6806) shows classic on. There’s an extensive wine list, good (and not so classic) horror and slasher flicks draft beer selection and a wide range of live at midnight. The single-screen theater, a music. A bar menu runs until 3 a.m. There’s former Shriners temple near the edge of no shame in pounding a $5.50 Lo-Brow the Saint Louis University campus, is alone special (a Stag and a shot of Ten High) at worth a visit. General admission tickets for last call and then returning a few hours later $7, plus a bar with movie-themed drinks and a pre-show with vintage trailers, make it the for Sunday brunch.

Lovers of alcohol-fueled sports might perfect place to see The Return of the Living

Dead or My Bloody Valentine for the first or 27th time.

Alternatively, another of St. Louis’ great movie houses, the gorgeous Tivoli Theatre (6350 Delmar Boulevard, 314-727-7271), offers a spring run of late-night shows for film buffs. The eclectic lineup of the Reel Late series has in the past included cult favorite Rocky Horror Picture Show, David Bowie as the goblin king in Labyrinth and Pulp Fiction.

After you roll out of the theater, bar or wherever the night has drifted, the next move is food. Doughnuts are always a good choice, and John Donuts (1618 S. Broadway, 314-241-3360) serves some of the finest in the city. Located on a blue-collar stretch of union halls, warehouses and hardware stores just south of downtown, it’s extra convenient if you happen to find yourself over-served and underfed in Soulard. On the north side, there’s Old Town Donuts (508 N. New Florissant Road, Florissant; 314-831-0907).

It’s open 24 hours and hard to beat.

To truly make it a full day in St. Louis, you’re going to need to eat a slinger. EatRite Diner (622 Chouteau Avenue, 314621-9621) is a short walk under Interstate 64 from Busch Stadium and arguably the city’s best destination if you’re grading on a stories-per-square-foot curve. Generations of local celebs, politicians, cops and crooks have crowded into the thirteen-seat diner for more than four decades. You won’t be the first or the last, but the shit-talking staff will treat you right.

Any of the Courtesy Diner locations are also a fine choice, but for a more upscale coffee shop, hit the Benton Park Cafe (2901 Salena Street, 314-771-7200). Serving a tasty menu of American fare, the cafe stays open 24 hours on Friday and Saturday. So does Coffee Cartel (2 Maryland Plaza, 314454-000), and it’s a great place to watch the Central West End party crowd stumble on home.

Sober up as the sun rises, but if you just can’t bear to see the party end, there is always the East Side. The string of skin clubs and their “Ballet du Sauget” lure legions of bleary-eyed patrons across the river, but Pop’s Night Club and Concert Venue (401 Monsanto Avenue, Sauget, Illinois; 618-2746720) is the true destination for the endless night. The massive club holds the rare 24hour liquor license, hosting metal and hip hop shows, traveling DJs and juggalos.

This is your spot to hide from the day.

The crowds thin as the working world grinds forward outside, but hunker down. It will be night again soon.

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CITY GUIDE 2017

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GET AWAY WITH MURDER...

bissell mansion dinner theatre

Twelve doughnut shops and a hungry driver make for the perfect mini road trip.

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Ask for a starring role or just sit back & guess “whodunnit” while enjoying a 4-course meal to DIE for!

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A Day of Doughnuts

| CITY GUIDE 2017

t. Louis is a fantastic town for donuts, and the charm of the local shops is as varied and delectable as the pastries steaming atop their racks every morning. Why stick to the Dunkin’ Donuts or Krispy Kreme on your way to work when you could buy a much better donut for a lot less money?

We’ve created a twelve-stop donut pilgrimage that will take you from south city to downtown to Clayton to Maplewood, visiting the area’s gamut of independently owned donut shops along the way.

Keep in mind that several of the shops do close at noon, and some are closed altogether on Monday; completionists attempting to knock out the whole list should aim for a day other than Monday and should get on the road before 9 a.m. (Bonus: The earlier you leave, the fresher the donuts will be!) Bring cash, as not all the stores accept credit cards.

Hitting all twelve will require an early start and about four hours total — and the capacity for an incredible amount of fried dough and sugar. But we did it, and lived to tell the tale. So too can you.

You can start anywhere on this route (it comes full circle, sort of), but for simplicity’s sake we’ll start in south city at Eddie’s Southtown Donuts (4701 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-832-1200), where the smell of oven-hot treats starts wafting through the air before sunrise each day. Open from 5 a.m. to noon, the offerings at Eddie’s veer from the classics to more adventurous items such as cheese pockets and fruit pies.

From Eddie’s, set a course toward the industrial edge of Soulard and an establishment that doesn’t know the meaning of sleep. Open from 11 p.m. to noon, John Donut (1618 S. Broadway, 314-241-3360) is known for its odd hours, sumptuously soft donuts and an apple fritter that will make your soul briefly leave your body.

Let the Gateway Arch guide you to your next destination, to downtown favorite Pharaoh’s Donuts (200 N. Seventh Street, 314-351-0285).

Observe owner Amon Aziz or one of his staffers pull and cut dough on the counter. Take time to consider how something as simple as dough can be transformed into flawless glazed donuts.

Bid the Arch farewell, hop onto Interstate 44 — when pronounced with a mouth full of donuts, it really does sound like “farty four” — and get some cash ready for a stop at World’s Fair Doughnuts (1940 S. Vandeventer Avenue; 314-776-9975). More than 30 years of wisdom are baked into this beloved St. Louis institution, and that history is immediately apparent upon the first crumbly, flaky bite of a buttermilk cake donut. Bonus: The prices haven’t changed much in 30 years, so you’ll probably end up spending just a few bucks for a tasty haul.

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Only a few minutes down Vandeventer lies yet another member of St. Louis’ pantheon of old school, cash-only donut shops — and the pedigree is right in the name. O’Fashion Donuts (5120 Southwest Avenue, 314-772-0398) may not look like much from the outside, but behind the Elvis posters gracing the windows is a trove of time-honored favorites, where chocolate and vanilla long johns hold court with the customer favorite, plain glazed. Grab coffee in a Styrofoam cup and munch your donut stash on the drive to Clayton.

After a succession of classic donut dives, Vincent Van Doughnut (40 N. Central Avenue, Clayton; 314899-9500) will feel like walking into a modern art gallery. The unique creations will set you back three bucks a pop, and the dreadnought-sized donuts are so hefty that you’ll be tempted to share — but once you bite into that fluffy lemon lavender or cookies and cream, you’ll want to keep that distinctive ‘“squared circle” donut all to yourself.

From Clayton, cruise south, taking Brentwood Boulevard along Shaw Park until you arrive in the tidy Brentwood strip mall containing Ray’s Donuts (2542 Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood; 314-962-6210).

Open ‘til noon on weekdays and 1 p.m. on Sundays, Ray’s boasts more than 50 varieties of donuts, sorted into categories that include classics, cakes, Bismarcks, bars and twists.

After you get a few, say goodbye to Ray’s and hang a left onto Manchester Road. After a few minutes of southbound driving you’ll come to a closet-sized storefront in Maplewood known as Strange Donuts (2709 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-932-5851). Although you can get by with the $1 classics and $2 “creations” (like the to-die-for Gooey Butter), the truly adventurous will pony up for a $5 “Stranger,” the shop’s weekly special that combines foodstuffs you never knew belonged on a donut (think: meat, cheese, even veggies). There’s also good news for all you late-night munchers: The shop is open ‘til midnight Thursday through Saturday.

OK, you’ve made it to the final stretch; don’t bow out now. The next stop will take you back to south city and a traditional donut shop experience. Look for the distinctively retro sign for Donut Drive-In (6525 Chippewa Street, 314-645-7714). Closed on Mondays, the Drive-In is a cash-only donut dive that serves up homestyle favorites, but even the basic chocolate frosted and buttermilk will leave you panting for more. (Insomniacs take note: On Friday and Saturday, the doors stay open until midnight.)

From there, get on Hampton Avenue and chart a southernly course to the St. Louis Hills Donut Shop (6917 Hampton Avenue, 314-481-6050), a squat green building that is home to more than two de-

cades of doughnut excellence. The glazed donuts melt wonderfully in your mouth, but there’s more than enough variety to keep things interesting, including a turtle old fashioned with caramel and almonds.

There’s also the unique cheese flip, which is a fusion between Danish and a donut that may push your appetite to the breaking point.

Don’t give up! Get back on Hampton and take in the glorious sights (and smells) of the River des Peres, and then hang a left onto Morganford until you spot the distinctive purple cone that sits atop the Donut House (8500 Morganford Road, 314-638-5828). Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the shop is usually well-stocked with a variety of fluffy and light donuts. Rumor has it that most orders come with a handful of donut holes thrown in for good measure.

Finally! One last stop before you call it a donut day. Head south for ten minutes on Interstate 55, which should provide a sufficient breather before tackling the criminally delicious wares at Ex-Cop Donut Shop (4584 Telegraph Road). Note that the shop is closed Mondays, open only until noon Tuesday through Thursday and then until 2 p.m. on the weekends. But if the timing works out, and you’ve been holding back until now — as your attorneys, we advise you to plead guilty to consuming several bites of the shop’s infamous “Sweet Apple Wood Maple Bacon” donut. Donut justice will be served.

Waddle your way back to your car with a few long johns for the road, and make sure to thank your courageous stomach for the past hours of commendable service. Congratulate yourself on a day of donuts done right… and maybe think about taking a jog tomorrow.

Twelve stops will score you dozens of donuts, all in four hours. photo by danny wicentowski

CITY GUIDE 2017

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| CITY GUIDE 2017

Sparkling since 1946

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| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 69

experience the new jazz at the bistro!

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| CITY GUIDE 2017

Presenting Sponsor of the 2016-17 Jazz

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[

the

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]

HAVE YOU BEEN LIVING IN ST. LOUIS TOO LONG?

A

ny transplant could tell you: It takes a little time for St. Louis to feel like home. But how do you know when you’ve stayed so long that you’ve lost all sense of perspective — when you’ve become more St. Louis than the Barnes-born, highschool-proud St. Louis native?

We’ve compiled a handy list to help you understand whether you’ve made it or crossed the line. Give yourself one point for every statement that applies; then check your score at the end of the post.

1. You have a favorite Steak ‘n Shake, or at least a preferred White Castle.

2. You’ve eaten your weight in wedding mostaccioli just this year alone.

3. You’re surprised to learn that other cities’ zoos charge admission.

4. In your circle of friends you have one person who got divorced because of a night on the East Side and one person who got married because of night on the East Side. They’re not the same person.

5. You know how to correctly

pronounce Chouteau, Gratiot and Goethe. “Correctly” meaning “all fucked up anywhere but here.”

6. You know which high school you would have gone to if you’d lived here during your teenage years.

7. You have the skill, geographic knowledge and the confidence to drive home from the bar using almost entirely side streets and alleys after having one too many.

8. Your calendar has at least one trivia night a week from mid-January through the end of March. That’s in addition to

your regular, year-round trivia night.

9. You’ve already requested April 5 off from work.

10. You’ve bumped into Mayor Slay at least twice.

11. You’ve learned through dripping-wet experience that, though they mean well, our local meteorologists actually have no idea what’s actually about to go down.

12. You have been ticketed by the police in three or more north-county municipalities whose city halls are within two square miles of one another.

13. Thanks to the inescapable radio ads, you still remember the precise directions to the Shane Company’s Brentwood location, despite the fact it moved four years ago. (Bonus points if you’ve never actually bought any diamonds off of Shane, but you still consider him a “friend.”)

14. Seeing the name “Gregory F.X. Daly” makes you grumbly.

15. You know which guy’s dealership is in “beautiful downtown Ballwin.”

16. You have formed a perverse and stubborn attachment to one station’s 10 p.m. news team. Everybody else’s team is terrible, but your team knows what’s going on.

17. You instinctively know how many days after a snowfall it will be before you see the first plow on your side street. You also know which neighbors’ plastic chairs you can safely move to park in “their” spot in a pinch. (Zero. The answer is that zero neighbors are cool with you doing this.)

18. You find yourself speaking in “actuallys” when you talk to your snobby New York friends.

“St. Louis is actually pretty cool,” you say. Or, “We actually have a great bar scene.” Or even,”Back in the day, we actually hosted the Olympics.”

One bonus point if you also now refer to St. Louis as “we.”

19. Not only do you regularly curse Schoemehl pots, but you know exactly who’s responsible for them.

20. You now have the keen senses to determine which week between April and June is “spring.”

How many points did you score?

19 OR MORE

15-18

11-14

10 OR FEWER

Native Son (Honorary Edition).

You’re so St. Louis, you belong to a Mardi Gras crew. And Mardi Gras in St. Louis is actually pretty cool.

Sooo Close.

You’ve been in at least two local bands. You’re probably married to a St. Louisan.

But you still call it I-64. Will you ever belong?

Halfway There.

You’ve clearly voted in local elections, and you almost certainly pay property tax. But if you really want to prove your local prowess, maybe it’s time to explore beyond the Central West End.

You Still Stink of Jersey.

Have you even tried Imo’s?

CITY GUIDE 2017

| R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S . C O M | 71

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The choice of a lawyer is an important decision and should not be based solely upon advertisements. This disclosure is required by rule of the Supreme Court of Missoui.