Riviera Insider - July / August 2016 by Riviera Press

SAINT TROPEZ DREAMING The Côte d’Azur’s most illustrious postcode

RSVP ABROAD A social approach to travel by the BBC

GOURMET Renaissance of le bœuf

SUMMER ESCAPES Cool alternatives to hot days on the beach

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# 167 JulY / augusT 2016 4,90 € The

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E-boutique www.zeades.com Drugstore CafĂŠ de Paris Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco - Tel : 00 377 98 06 75 02

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EDITORIAL By PETRA HALL

As a journalist, I am in the business of news - whether the positive or the negative. In these troubled times, it feels like there’s almost no day that goes by without a tragedy. Riviera Insider always aims to keep our readers abreast of the current affairs and useful facts of the Côte d’Azur, but thankfully, we are privileged enough to be living in one of the most wonderful (and peaceful) regions of the world. It is poignant to think that my words may reflect some of the sentiments held by the us navy sailors who were stationed in Villefranche-sur-Mer in the 1950s and 60s. They made this little Mediterranean village their home away from home in the years while many of their compatriots were fighting the gruelling Vietnam War. I was lucky enough to spend some time with veterans of

the day and share in the memories of their sometimes happy, sometimes sad stories. you can read for yourselves their words from page 26, but I warn you, have plenty of tissues at the ready! It is but one of the many intriguing articles we bring you in this edition of Riviera Insider and I invite you to unwind in the words of these pages wherever you spend these warm, summer days.

THE TEAM

ELsA CARPEnTER

VInCEnT ARTus

KARInE BALAGny

AuRéLIE ALLAMAndI

JAMEs ROLLAnd

CAROLE HéBERT

dOMInIQuE FREuLOn

MICHEL GOMIZ

nearly 25 years ago, Petra Hall (Riviera Insider’s editor-in-chief) founded the newspaper Riviera Côte d’Azur Zeitung in German, which was followed by The Riviera Times in 2003. These titles have now blossomed under the names Riviera Insider and RivieraZeit into attractive, contemporary magazines. The goal from the beginning was to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights from the Mediterranean written by professional mother-tongue journalists. Petra Hall has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape.

Carole Hébert (Secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. Besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly.

Elsa Carpenter (Editor of Riviera Insider) joined the team this spring with fresh ideas and a modern vision for the magazine. Having worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years - some of you may recognise her name - she is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers.

Dominique Freulon (Communication & PR), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. she is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature.

James Rolland (Managing Director) is an experienced entrepreneur with an extensive career background in the us and France. The Parisian is excited to be joining Riviera Press because of our unique readership and potential. James is a passionate musician and amateur chef.

Aurélie Allamandi (Communication & PR) is fresh from her studies in marketing and communication. Born in nice, she is keen to put her knowledge into practice, get to know our readers and develop the futures of both our magazines.

Vincent Artus (Art Director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer.

Karine Balagny (Marketing) loves the international flair of the company. After several years of living in the usA, and thanks to her experience in sales and events, the native of normandy has found her dream position in our multi-cultural publishing house.

Michel Gomiz (Communication & PR) lives for his profession. For 23 years he has been working as a media consultant for fashion, jewellery and other luxury items between the Côte d’Azur and Paris. One of his hidden talents is playing the drums.

Over the past 140 years we have learned that behind every success story is a unique narrative. Our role is to listen to your stories, interpret them, apply financial expertise and guide you towards your desired outcomes. If your goal is to create enduring wealth, why not start by sharing your story with us?

www.cfm-indosuez.mc

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Issue #167 sEE MORE, dO MORE, KnOW MORE Cover photo © Barry Craske Female model: Manon Flokstra Hair: Sarah Palmer Make up: Linda Andersson Stylist: Dominic Shearer

conTenTs

The Hotlist Top news & trends

12 Success Story Carol drinkwater’s latest novel, olive farm in Provence & her work with unEsCO following the Olive Heritage Trail around the Mediterranean

18 Comment Photo DUANE HANSEN’S QUEENIE II, 1988 © The Estate of Duane Hansen, photography by Robert McKeever

Julian nundy takes us through his thoughts on the British Brexit vote

Report Riviera Insider meets RsVP Abroad host Julie Bensman

24 History The extraordinary & emotive tales from the us sixth Fleet of Villefranche-sur-Mer

26 Summer Escapes Alternatives to a typical summer on the beach

34 Gourmet Monaco’s Beefbar comes to Cannes

42 Style An interview with danish designer Isabell Kristensen

44 British brand Reiss arrives in the French Riviera

45 new addresses for your fashion diary

46 Business Riviera Insider speaks to easyJet’s sir stelios Haji-Ioannou

48 Language learning with likeminded people

51 Real Estate A paradise isle in the seychelles: Eden Island

Real Estate saint Tropez dreaming as Riviera Insider’s delves into the region’s finest properties

56 Festivals It’s one long summer of music, dance & celebration

60 Culture duane Hansen: not your typical Monaco residents

64 Events see more, do more, known more this July & August

70 Social Readers’ opinion corner: you tell us what you think about the shock Eu referendum result

80 Expat Focus Juliette Clarkin talks old family ties, her new business venture & the Mimosa charity

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Enter at the velvet rope As exclusive as it is engaging and as impressive as it is inspiring, this July will see the Grimaldi Forum’s prominent international art fair offer a raw insight into the complex world of fine and antique art with a remodelled vision and a brand new name. Point Art Monaco has boldly become the European Art Fair Monaco in the hopes of expanding its prominence as a leading cultural calendar date for collectors, investors and amateurs alike. despite being only in its sixth year, this fledgling exhibitor-based event has already built up a solid reputation in old and modern art, objets d’art and collectors’ items thanks to its prestigious connections. “The European Art Fair Monaco wants to promote the best of what humanity has created in the world of art - era notwithstanding,” say organisers, “and our show’s goal is to focus more than ever on an offer as selective as it is prestigious in an event overseen by the largest international collectors and museums.” Working with a handpicked list of exhibitors linked to leading art and cultural institutions across the globe - think Of the 50 of the Louvre Museum in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Museum of Modern Art of new york, and million Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera - the art fair and its exhibits enjoy a certain ‘international legitimacy’ as a worthy focus point of artistic excellence and diversity. millionaires in “Open to all art lovers, we seek to open up fresh perspectives on classified art: art that is museum-quality art in the world, the main genres of the fine and decorative arts from painting to sculpture, works on paper, period furniture and approximately designer jewellery,” says the organisers. “Like an imaginary museum of styles and periods, the European Art Fair Monaco is designed to be a walk amidst dreamlike and perfectly conserved objects, with a balanced offer of 600,000 invest traditional pieces.” as much as 10% This year will also see the European Art Fair Monaco pair up with Jewels of the World once again to host an of their secured extraordinary display of the finest designer and precious jewellery. This collaboration has become an immensely assets in art successful driver of the event’s success and distinction among similar shows through its ability to surprise and awe even the most knowledgeable of visitors. Among this year’s artistic exhibits are Andy Warhol’s ‘Marylin’ courtesy of the Galerie Adriano Ribolzi, Alvise Vivarini’s ‘Benediction of Christ’ from the Maison d’Art and Gaspare Vanvitelli’s ‘naples, a view of the Riviera di Chiaia’ thanks to the Cesare Lampronti Gallery. While many will come to simply admire the beauty and majesty of the works on show at the 2016 edition, there will no doubt be others looking among the exhibits for the ideal investment piece. since its inception, the fair has worked tirelessly to become a place to discover new and emerging market trends, and to facilitate communication between global dealers and their clients. “The Principality of Monaco, a coveted marketplace to say the least, perfectly reflects globalisation and the art market’s new potential in the 21st century,” says director of the event Renaud siegmann, a renowned art historian and critic. “There are nearly 50 million millionaires in the world, including approximately 600,000 buyers who invest an average of 10% of their long-term secured assets in art works, many of whom are resident in Monaco.” In 2015, the global art market was valued at over 50 billion euros - a figure that passed all previous benchmarks in the industry. According to siegmann: “Major private dealers, closely followed by the first-class auction houses, accounted for half the sales in figures. The presence of first-rate auction houses in Monaco, and the fact that others come here to hold their summer auctions, attests to the principality’s appeal as an area where [art] has always made news.” The European Art Fair Monaco will be held from 20th to 24th July at the Grimaldi Forum from 3pm until 9pm each day, with special late opening hours on 21st July until 10pm. The event coincides with current Francis Bacon exposé (on display until 4th september) and special combinations tickets for both exhibitions can be purchased for 16 euros.  grimaldiforum.com

FINE ART, ANTIQUES AND PRECIOUS JEWELLERY AT THE EUROPEAN ART FAIR MONACO

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#Marseille: a Netﬂix original A GRAPPLE FOR POWER, THE FILTH OF CORRUPTION AND A DESIRE FOR REDEMPTION

Fresh on the back of the vastly successful mixed language crime drama narcos comes online TV and film provider netflix’s first foray into an independent, original, foreign series: Marseille. The complex character of this troubled, but magnificent port city provides the background for a provocative eightepisode series by directors dan Franck and Florent Emilio-siri that falls somewhere between intense political thriller and vengeful drama. France’s cinematic icon Gérard depardieu takes the role of well-established Marseille mayor Robert Taro who, as the municipal elections near, prepares to push through the vote for the construction of a casino in the historic centre of the marina. But Taro’s misplaced faith and trust in the younger Lucas Barrès (Benoît Magimel), whose all-consuming thirst for power and disregard for loyalty to his mentor shocks the local political circle and city itself, comes with a costly price. From the city’s squalid, crime-ridden banlieues (suburbs) to its lavish, luxury estates, the bad and the ugly of the city join in a power struggle for the mayoral position that could tear not only Taro and his family apart, but the very social fabrics of Marseille. As Taro’s plans for the casino - aimed at pushing out the mob and allowing Marseille to achieve a stronger international status as a destination - implode around him, the race for the title of mayor becomes a vicious and clandestine competition that leaves you wondering, ‘Is there nothing they won’t do to win?’ “We’re proud to support French culture and are thrilled to be able to share Marseille with our global audience,” says netflix’s vice president of international original series Erik Barmack. Marseille is available in full on netflix and with English-language subtitles.  netflix.com

Pop-up e-innovation LEADING ELECTRIC VEHICLE MANUFACTURE R TESLA OPENS IN POLYGONE RIVIERA

As the automotive world begins to take significant steps towards a more electric-focused future, there’s one man at the forefront of the race. Hailed as the new steve Jobs, technological genius and multibillionaire Elon Musk has, in the last few years, devastated competition from other electrical vehicle manufacturers. His cool, collected and understated models place innovation, safety, creativity, beauty and personality at the heart of their design. Tesla has become increasingly popular in France in recent years - over 1,000 Model s’ had been sold at the start of 2016, and reservations for Model X and the imminent Model 3 are flooding in and the demand for new stores and sales representatives has grown significantly. The American brand has even caught the eye of French Minister for Energy ségolène Royal who reportedly suggested to Musk that he take a look at the Fessenheim nuclear facility in eastern France as a possible site for a Tesla factory on French soil. Tesla popularity in the south of France has led the dynamic designer and manufacturer to secure a prime position for its premium electric motors in Polygone Riviera’s designer Gallery amidst neighbours such as Printemps and British high fashion brand Reiss (read more on page 45). "This positioning on the Côte d’Azur is perfectly logical for our development in the region,” says Olivier Loedel, director France of Tesla Motors. “We have so far a sales manager for nice, Cannes and Monaco, but the closest point of sale is in Aix-en-Provence. now more than ever, we want to be closer to our customers.” The pop-up store will stay open for the next six months and allows clients to explore, configure and order the range.  teslamotors.com

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Seven Seas Explorer to receive royal send-oﬀ PRINCESS CHARLENE OF MONACO CHRISTENS THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS VESSEL

Already mother to her beautiful twins Jacques and Gabriella, Princess Charlene of Monaco is now set to take on the role of godmother to the world’s most luxurious vessel. On 13th July, the south African-born princess will christen the 750-guest liner with the traditional champagne launch in a prestigious gala-style event in Monaco. Italy’s famous vocalist Andrea Bocelli will join Princess Charlene and guests for a 40-minute performance. The internationally renowned tenor has, in fact, already entertained the princess, notably at her wedding to Prince Albert II in 2011. Operator Regent seven seas Cruises has described the 220+ metre seven seas Explorer – its most recent vessel, which has been built at the Fincantieri shipyard in Genoa, Italy – as having set a new benchmark for luxury in the cruise liner industry.

“seven seas Explorer® is spaciously intimate, breathlessly elegant and perfectly staffed to offer Regent seven seas Cruises’ special brand of all-inclusive luxury,” said a spokesperson for Regent seven seas Cruises. “The summer of 2016 will herald not only the launch of the most luxurious ship to sail the seven seas, but also the moment when you can experience the new standard in elegance and sophistication.” The ship will be home to eight fine dining restaurants, both inside and on deck, as well as a casino, theatre, relaxation and entertainment lounges, spa and treatment facilities, an upscale gym and fitness suites, outdoor running track, and a very lavish pool deck complete with whirlpools. Princess Charlene’s smashing of champagne against the hull of the vessel will mark its debut on the seven seas. From Monaco, seven seas Explorer will travel to some of the Mediterranean’s most celebrated (and celebrity!) places such as saint Tropez, Ibiza, Venice, Cinque Terre, Athens and Rome. Fares begin at around 4,000 euros per person for a one-week cruise.  rssc.com

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“I do-blop!” What a wonderful place the Riviera is for a wedding with its endless blue skies, a fragrant breeze and, of course, the glistening Mediterranean sea. But for some, near proximity to our azure waters just isn’t enough and if there’s anywhere that can cater to extraordinary desires, it’s Monaco. Just off the golden coast of the principality lies a unique dive site. While you might catch a glimpse of Monaco’s resident seahorse colony or flashes of its other vibrant marine life, you might also see the rare and unusual ‘bride beneath the waves’. At some 10 metres below the gentle waves of the Mediterranean and with light streaming down through the clear waters, a couple clasp hands around a pearly shell. Inside, the rings glint almost as much as the smiles of the soon-to-be-wed pair, albeit behind their masks. An altar of amphora and champagne complete the dream-like scene. Once the words have been spoken and a first (watery) kiss shared, the couple rise to the surface and head to the shores of the principality for a beachside celebration of their love. Monaco’s attraction to the seas is well-known, but the Hotel Metropole has taken this love affair a step further in the summer of 2016 by pairing up with internationally renowned free diver Pierre Frolla to launch an underwater wedding service. you can now propose to your loved one on bended knee from the sandy seabed and celebrate on the beach with champagne and petit fours by haute cuisine chef Joël Robuchon for 1,200 euros or take your nearest and dearest along for the aquatic wedding ceremony experience for 4,500 euros (includes four guests, gourmet cocktail celebrations on the beach with roses, and professionally shot photographs and video). For those longing to share the biggest moment of their lives in the presence of all their friends and family, the hotel has created an incredible 22-guest friendly package for 7,000 euros. Ceremonies will be conducted in the presence of qualified instructors and all reservations should be made directly with the hotel and specialist concierge team.  metropole.com

LOVE KNOWS NO BOUNDARIES

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The city awaits your arrival & so does your ‘Greeter’ Landing in a foreign place for the first time can be testing to say the least, but that’s not how nice wants its visitors to feel. The city’s tourism office has launched an innovative new concept - nice Greeters - that aims to pair newcomers to the capital of the French Riviera with impassioned locals who want to share their love for nice with its newest arrivals. The Greeters come from all walks of life and represent every age group the cosmopolitan city has to offer. In their free-time, they take visitors on tours of the old town’s honeycomb streets, the city centre’s wide boulevards, its beautiful open squares and, of course, its famous Promenade des Anglais. It is an opportunity to discover the hidden gems of the city found far beyond the tourist traps and paper map landmarks, all in the safe hands of a local who knows nice like the back of their hand - or comme sa poche! signing up to find your very own Greeter requires filling out a form on the website (available in English) at least a week in advance after which the tourism office will put you in touch with a suitable guide. All visits centre around a specific theme such as walks in the town, a bike ride, a tour of the city’s restaurants, a trip down its best shopping streets, visits of nice’s gardens and great architectural or historical landmarks, and explorations of the nearby areas or cultural escapades. some 45 Greeters have already signed up and speak nine different languages between them: French, English, Italian, spanish, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Chinese and dutch. since the concept was launched, as many as 300 tourists have benefited from the scheme with Americans (15%), Canadians (11%), Brits (9%) and scandinavians (7%) making up the majority. According to the newly launched site, these guided visits typically last two hours and no payment is required. The Greeters are happy to be ambassadors for their hometown! To become a Greeter, you must be a minimum of 18 years old, be sociable, motivated, available for at least half a day per month, and be comfortable managing a group of up to six.  nice-greeters.com

NICE LAUNCHES NEW TOURISM INITIATIVE

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Blue ﬂag winners A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PAVILLON BLEU BEACHES AND PORTS OF THE RIVIERA

A record number of France’s beaches and marinas have achieved the coveted Pavillon Bleu certification with over 400 plages across 170 communes and almost 100 ports being granted the eco label for 2016. The south of France has proved most successful in the country and here Riviera Insider presents all of the destinations on our coastline that been granted this status of cleanliness by the Foundation for Environmental Education as well as the many wonderful beaches and ports in the Italian region of Liguria that also have a beach flag.

BEACHES IN THE ALPESMARITIMES Cap d’Ail: Pissarelles nice: Bambou (Fabron Est),

Centenaire, Coco Beach, Poincaré, saint Hélène Antibes: Les Groules, Fontonne Est, Fontonne Ouest, square Gould, Pont dulys, Antibes-lesPins Est, Antibes-les-Pins Ouest, Garoupe Ouest, La salis, Grande Plage Juan-les-Pins, Gallice, Marineland, Fort Carré Vallauris: Midi Cannes: Bijou, Chantiers navals, Trou (Roubine), Font de Veyre,

Gare Marchandises, Gazagnaire, Île sainte Marguerite Est, Île sainte Marguerite Ouest, Midi, Moure Rouge, Rochers de la Bocca, saint Georges, sud Aviation

BEACHES IN THE VAR sainte Maxime: Garonnette, Plage des Eléphants, La Croisette, La nartelle, Plage du centre-ville La Croix Valmer: Gigaro, La douane Le Lavandou: Batailler (Poste de secours), Lavandou ville, saint Clair, Cavalière La Londe Les Maures: L’Argentière, Miramar, Tamaris Hyères: Almanarre nord, La Bergerie, Port Pothuau Le Pradet: Les Bonnettes, La Garonne, Le Monaco, Les Oursinières, Le Pin de Galle, Rayol Canadel sur Mer, Plage Rayol Ouest, Plage Canadel Est, Plage Canadel Ouest, Plage Rayol Est, Pramousquier Est Toulon-Anse-Mistral: Les Pins Centre, Lido, source Ouest La seyne-sur-Mer - new to the rankings: sablettes Centre, sablette Est saint Mandrier-sur-Mer: La Coudoulière, La Vieille, saintAsile, Touring Club, Le Canon six-Fours-Les-Plages: Bonnegrace Le Manuella, Bonnegrace Poste de secours, Plage du Cros, La Coudoulière, Le Rayolet, Les Charmettes saint Cyr-sur-Mer: Les Lecques saint, Come Ouest

BEACHES IN LIGURIA imperia Bordighera: Capo sant'Ampelio

Termini, Ratta Conigli Taggia: Arma di Taggia santo stefano al Mare: Baia Azzurra, Il Vascello san Lorenzo al Mare: u nostromu - Prima Punta, Baia delle Vele savona Ceriale

Borghetto santo spirito Loano: spiaggia Levante Porto, Zona Torrente nimbalto, Tombolo Perelli, Zona sottopasso Via Genova, Loc. sottopassaggio Pietra Ligure: Ponente Finale Ligure: spiaggia di Malpasso - Baia dei saraceni,

Finalmarina, Finalpia, spiaggia del Porto, Varigotti, Castelletto san donato noli: Capo noli-Zona VittoriaZona Anita-Chiariventi spotorno: Lido Bergeggi: Il Faro, Villaggio del sole savona: Fornaci Albissola Marina: Lido Albisola superiore: Lido Celle Ligure: Levante Varazze: Arrestra, Ponente Teiro, Levante Teiro, Piani d'Invrea genoa

santa Margherita Ligure: scogliera Pagana, Punta Pedale, Paraggi, Zona Milite Ignoto Chiavari: Zona Gli scogli Lavagna: Lungomare Moneglia: Centrale, La secca, Levante la spezia Framura: Fornaci Levanto: Levanto Ghiararo,

spiaggia Est La Pietra Lerici Venere Azzurra, Lido, san Giorgio, Eco del Mare, Fiascherino, Baia Blu, Colombo Ameglia: Fiumaretta

PORTS IN THE ALPESMARITIMES Port de Marina Baie des Anges, Villeneuve-Loubet Port Vauban, Antibes Port Camille Rayon, Golfe-Juan Port Pierre Canto, Cannes Port de La napoule, MandelieuLa-napoule

PORTS IN THE VAR Port de Plaisance de santa Lucia, saint Raphaël Vieux Port, saint Raphaël Port Fréjus, Fréjus

Port san Peïre des Issambres, san Peïre Port de Plaisance les Marines, Cogolin Port, Bormes les Mimosas Port, Lavandou Port, La Londe Port saint Pierre, Hyères Port de La Coudoulière, sanarysur-Mer Port de Plaisance, saint-Pierre des Embiez Port de Plaisance, Bandol Port de la Madrague, saint Cyrsur-Mer Vieux Port des Lecques, saint Cyr-sur-Mer nouveau Port des Lecques, saint Cyr-sur-Mer

PORTS IN LIGURIA Marina degli Aregai, san stefano al Mare Portosole, sanremo Marina, san Lorenzo al Mare Marina, Loano Cala Cravieu, Celle Ligure Vecchia darsena, savona Marina, Varazze Marina, Andora Marina, Alassio Marina, Chiavari Porto Turistico Internazionale Carlo Riva, Rapallo Porto, Portovenere Porto Lotti, La spezia Porto Mirabello, La spezia It is worth noting that becoming a Blue Flag beach requires a significant financial investment – something not all communes are able to commit to. so if you don’t see your favourite beach on the list, that certainly doesn’t mean it isn’t as clean or responsible as those featured here.  pavillonbleu.org

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riviera insider meets Carol Drinkwater in a small café in Le Cannet to talk about her new book - The Forgotten Summer - her olive farm in Provence and her work with UNeSCO around the Mediterranean.

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a sTorY ThaT bears fruiT Carol Drinkwater’s love aﬀair with the olive By ELSA CARPENTER

arol drinkwater will be a familiar face to fans of the British small screen in the 1970s and 80s thanks to her roles as Helen Herriot in All Creatures Great and small (which won the Irish-born actress a Variety Club Television Personality of the year award in 1985) and as Anne Winton in Father. The earlier days of her career also saw the actress grace the silver screen, notably in the eccentrically eclectic A Clockwork Orange (as nurse Feeley, 1971). But it is Carol’s lifelong passion for writing that has proved her defining art form. At the tender age of just 10 years old, Carol’s work was published for the first time. “It related an embarrassing experience at a dance in a girls’ magazine,” Carol muses. “For this, I received a five-shilling postal order. I was so overwhelmed when the letter arrived with the payment. I can still see myself staring proudly at that money order!” The now best-selling author continued her writing through her teenage years - “I kept copious diaries and notebooks, and I collected words and phrases that I liked the sound of in a big green book” - but her theatrical and acting career flourished, and it wouldn’t

be until 1985, at the end of Carol’s term with the television adaptation of the James Herriot’s All Creatures Great and small, that she would publish her first novel ,The Haunted school. The book was adapted into a mini TV series in the us and won an award at the Chicago Film Festival. “I went back to writing after I met my documentary filmmaker husband, Michel, on the set of Golden Pennies in sydney in the 1980s,” she says. “After we were married, he asked me one day if I had any unfulfilled dreams. I told him that I’d love to write a book. He supported my ambitions entirely.” What followed was three successful decades of research, writing and publishing. Today, Carol is most well-know for her trilogy based on her experiences owning an olive farm in Provence: The Olive Farm, The Olive season and The Olive Harvest. In 1985, Carol and her French-German husband bought their olive farm in the hills above Cannes. “It’s surprising that there are still these pockets of rural Provence here,” says Carol. “Our home has a Le Cannet post code, but we’re closest to Mougins. It took us years - 20 years, in fact - to get the farm to where we wanted it. now we’ve bought some neighbouring land and have set about adding it to our groves. We’ve cleared the first section and have planted some olive trees and a few fruit trees - that’s what I was doing last weekend!” It was extremely hard for the couple in the early days and, as Carol admits, they made plenty of mistakes: “At first, I planted different varieties of olives, but actually, that’s not allowed. We have an AOC (an appellation d'origine contrôlée that is granted to certain geographical areas in France) in place in the south of France so we could only grow the niçois olive, the cailletier.” When Carol and her husband first moved to the region some 30 years ago, she had just her A Level-standard of French, so in that first summer, she enrolled in an intensive language course at the university of nice. “My stepdaughters - Michel has a family from his first marriage - refused to speak to me at all in English, although their English was a lot better than my French. I was surprised when the university put me in a Grade 3 class, I thought I would have been Grade 1! The teacher found my range of vocabulary hilarious as it mostly involved the words I’d picked up when renovating our farm - words to do with hardware, joists and construction. I’d never had a swimming pool of my own either - I’d gone to the public baths as a girl - so everything to do with the piscine I’d learnt in France. I just didn’t know the translations in English!” Today, she is fluent, competent and confident in the French language. she says she is at home here: “Although nothing will ever take Ireland out of my heart.” The olive farm is productive and Carol remains as passionate about the bitter berries as she was when she first arrived. This love for olives led her to embark on a journey right around the Mediterranean in the search of the

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birthplace of the olive tree. she contacted unEsCO for support in her mission as the organisation had begun the Olive Heritage Trail - an initiative aimed at mapping the route of the sacred tree in an effort to bring the countries and cultures of the Mediterranean basin together - but, at the time, they weren’t interested. determined to follow her passion, Carol went ahead with her plan alone. Her editor at the time advised her to start in Provence and work her way backwards to the source, but the temptation to discover where the olive tree first began its journey was too much. Carol travelled to Iraq and later syria, where she would be for the 9/11 attacks in new york. It was an exhilarating and often dangerous voyage of discovery for the author, but it is one she is glad she took. “Against better advice, I decided to go straight to the start of the story and what a good idea it was too,” says Carol with no regrets. “Who could travel in these war zones today? There would be nothing left to see.” Following the publication of the first tome in what would become a two-part series, Carol sent a copy of The Olive Route to unEsCO and this time, their response was much more positive. “They called me immediately and invited me to fly out

CAROL DRINKWATER, SUCCESSFUL ACTRESS AND BEST-SELLING AUTHOR © Michel Noll

CAROL’s PAssIOns LEd HER TO EMBARK On A sOMETIMEs dAnGEROus JOuRnEy AROund THE MEdITERRAnEAn In THE sEARCH OF THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE OLIVE TREE

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to Cyprus the next day. I was introduced on the panel as the only ‘non-scientist’ involved,” she laughs. “yes, my knowledge of the terrain and ecology of the olive tree was nothing like the rest of the team’s, but I had actually been to these places - all of them - and from my own experiences growing and cultivating olives, I had a completely different insight.” Around the time that Carol entered the second phase of her investigations for follow-up book The Olive Tree, the governments of the uK and the us were contemplating the controversial war in Iraq. It was a difficult time for travellers in the Middle East and north Africa, but Carol pressed ahead, visiting countries in the western Mediterranean such as Morocco and Algeria, the latter of which had essentially been declared a nogo zone by the us. It was here that Carol uncovered a part of history that she had no real knowledge of at the time - the practice of winemaking and vineyards in Algeria - and it would later inspire her latest novel, The Forgotten summer. “I began seeing these huge, beautiful villas that had been completely abandoned and were crumbling away. I learnt that they had once belonged to the pieds noirs, the French colonists who had fled the country during and following Algeria’s war for independence against France. As most of the population that remained were a mix of Berbers and Arabs, mostly Muslim groups, there was no interest in the production of wine. some estates were looked after in the early post-war years by people who exported and sold the grapes to France, but it eventually petered out as fundamentalists got a stronger hold on the country.” Carol wrote the final chapter of The Forgotten summer, the only part of the book to be based in Algeria, before all of the others and sent it to her editor. “He wasn’t best pleased,” Carol explains. “He asked me, ‘Are you really writing a book about Algeria? I can’t sell Algeria.’ It paralysed my work for a while, but I was passionate about it. now, I wish I’d ignored him. In many all of the book’s reviews, readers say they wish they could have heard more about the country.” during her travels, Carol also experienced first hand the effects of over-cultivation and the onslaught of desertification, particularly in Andalucía, spain, which is home to 180 million olive trees. “I encountered both the past and the future of the industry,” she reflects. “In Algeria, I saw a vast mill that must have produced huge quantities of olive oil, but here it was, right in the middle of a desert. There was nothing there anymore. In Andalucía, I saw how careless cultivation was ruining the industry, the soil and the olive trees. It was then that I decided that our olive farm would take a different approach.” Their olive grove is wholly organic and Carol lets the land grow wild for much of the year. “since we stopped using products on our trees, the farm has completely changed. We have so many more butterflies and bees, and I let wild flowers and weeds grow among the trees, only cutting everything back once they have had time to re-seed for next year. It is totally organic, although we don’t have an organic

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certification and I don’t label our oil as organic either. The process of gaining certification is too complex and costly. 100 euros here, 500 euros there; it just doesn’t make sense. The cost of it drives businesses to bankruptcy.” Carol fits in time for her writing around farm life or perhaps vice versa. she is certainly a busy woman, with another novel on the way: “It’ll be my 21st or maybe my 22nd - I’ve lost count!” “My deadline for the next book, which is in a similar vein to The Forgotten summer with its political edge, was the end of July, but my editor has extended that until september. It has to be done by then to get published next year so I’m chained to my desk writing.”

CAROL FITs In TIME FOR HER WRITInG AROund FARM LIFE OR PERHAPs VICE VERsA. sHE Is CERTAInLy A Busy WOMAn, WITH AnOTHER nOVEL On THE WAy!

Her latest book is currently available in hardback and the paperback launches on 28th July. Almost all of her novels are also accessible in e-format on Amazon Carol writes novellas and short stories for the online corporation - although she held back on some of her early works. “To me, that’s what some of them are: early works. I didn’t feel comfortable putting them out there, but the other books I released years ago are still well-received.” We leave Carol for an afternoon’s writing - she’s 50,000 words in at the moment - and go home dreaming about that quintessential Provence of owning an olive grove in the south of France. A small tree on the terrace will have to suffice for now. 

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#reviews A lovely book packed with the sunshine, scents and savours of the south of France… Plenty of page-turning drama, but also mouthwatering descriptions of Paris and Provence.  The Daily Mail Set with a backdrop of Provençal vineyards and olive groves, with scents of the French countryside and sunshine to warm you, Carol will take you away as you become immersed in the unusual life of the Cambon family, where no one is quite who they first seemed to be.  French Village Diaries This is a wonderful, beautifully written book.

I couldn’t put it down and when I’d finished it, I wanted to start it again. From the first page, Provence is brought to life with its light, heat and interesting, colourful people. Excellent!  Reader Jane Cullen A beautiful, atmospheric story of loss, family drama and mystery.  Nicola Edwards from lovereading.co.uk An absorbing story that completely captivates you from the first word to the last. You can breathe the air, smell the fragrance that is Provence… Pictures are painted in your mind as you turn the pages, but

sTarT of a new chapTer there is also a most intriguing tale that draws you in and refuses to let go until you have finished the book. Even then you want more! Carol Drinkwater writes from her heart, passion pours from the pages. All of life is here. A stunning read.  Reader Mary Butler

carol DrinkwaTer’s laTesT novel midst the drama and destruction of the Algerian War of Independence that took place from 1954 to 1962 between the French army and the Algerian national Liberation Front, a pied noir family (literally meaning ‘black feet’ and used to describe the white French colonists in north Africa) attempt to flee the country for France. Only three of them make it out alive - mother Clarisse, her son and her sister-in-law. They start over in the south of France, buying a dilapidated vineyard in a fictional village in the east of the Var. One day, an Englishman looking to capitalise on the popularity of French wine in the uK knocks on the Cambons’ door. His five-year-old daughter, Jane, who visits the vineyard with

her father during the summers, falls for Luc, the son of the former colonist family. despite the seven year age gap, her infatuation grows over time, forever linking the families together. years later, as the Cambons prepare for their annual harvest, the very existence of the vineyard is threatened. Jane is forced to take the helm and, along the way, discovers that her longtime love may not be the man she fell in love with as a young girl. A dark secret is at the very heart of the vineyard, but it will be no easy task uncovering the truth. Flitting between the past and the present, and between Provence, Paris, London and the Cambons former home of Algeria, the intricate tale unwinds itself against the backdrop of tragedy, hidden histories and family secrets. caroldrinkwater.com

The English bookshop of Antibes By ELSA CARPENTER

There is, in my opinion, nothing better than curling up (or stretching out on the beach!) with a good book and while I am competent a French-speaker, I do still prefer a story in my mother-tongue. So I’d like to share with you my top destination in the south of France for finding just that. The English bookshop of Antibes, run by former actress and children’s writer Heidi Lee, has been something of an institution in the harbour town for many years, but in the last 12 months, the business has been in the capable hands of English expat Fenella Holt. “I moved to Antibes from Palma with my yacht photographer husband Ed and our children eight years ago. I spent the last three years working with Heidi at her shop, but she was wanting to retire so I decided to take the business on,” says Fenella. “We’ve recently moved to our new location at 13 Rue Georges Clemenceau, which has been brilliant! We have a lot more footfall here and we’re open seven days a week. Antibes Books has a smaller premises, but we have just a wide of a range. I took out some of the older books that we’d had for a few and replaced them with brand new stock. It’s great we’re very busy!” Inside her bookshelves, avid readers of all genres will almost certainly find something to tickle their fingertips, from fiction to non-fiction, autobiographies to historical works, travel guides to language aids, and, of course, a bright and colourful selection of children’s books. The staff are always cheerful and very helpful - if you’re looking for an insider tip, don’t hesitate to ask away! It’s Fenella’s goal to organise book signings by Anglophone authors in her store and so far has invited the likes of Carol Drinkwater, Calendar Girls actress and now author Celia Imrie, Stephen Clarke and Hugh Fraser. Keep an eye on her Facebook page Antibes Books for upcoming events! 13 Rue Georges Clemenceau, Antibes antibesbooks.com

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 FIsH, CHIPs And BREXIT By RIVIERA InsIdER’s POLITICAL COMMEnTATOR In PARIs, JULIAN NUNDY

europe reacts to british referendum ish and chips were served on a union Flag-festooned table when Marine Le Pen, the leader of France’s far-right national Front, celebrated the victory of Brexit, or the end to the united Kingdom’s 43-year membership of the European union, in its 23rd June referendum. In a week that had seen a populist Italian fringe party win the city halls of Rome and Turin, the British vote, by 52 to 48% in favour of the Leave camp, was a new and massive signal of ordinary citizens’ rejection of their political elites, a tendency that Le Pen hopes will take her into the second and final round of next

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It’s embarrassing... It is clear that both sides missed out on an excellent opportunity to educate and this is the truly upsetting thing.

year’s presidential election and perhaps even into the Elysée Palace itself. Le Pen, a fervent opponent of the Eu, used the occasion to press her regular calls for a similar referendum in France. Colleagues of far-right nationalist movements in the netherlands and Italy joined in. Before the final votes were counted in the uK, Asian stock markets wobbled, ahead of those in Europe and the rest of the world, and the pound sterling fell to a 31-year low against the us dollar after prereferendum warnings that a Brexit vote would bring financial chaos. The question was how long the turmoil would remain global, even as it seemed inevitable that the British economy at least would suffer far into the future. In the immediate hours following the release of the results, the leaders of the Brexit campaign began climbing down from earlier promises. no, it was not really true that Britain sent £350 million a week to Brussels and that this could now be freed up to inject into the health service, said nigel Farage, the leader of uKIP - the united Kingdom Independence

Party - who has an anti-Eu and antiimmigrant agenda resembling Le Pen’s. Cornwall, where 56.52% voted for Brexit, sent an urgent plea to London for assurances that the £60 million the Eu has sent it every year for the last decade would still roll in. It was not clear where Cornwall expected the replacement cash to be found. Prime Minister david Cameron, who offered the referendum in his campaign for reelection last year, said he would hand over to a successor in three months and the replacement would handle the negotiations to leave the Eu. no, responded Eu leaders, including Jean-Marc Ayrault, France’s foreign minister. The divorce must be handled immediately to stop Brexit becoming a longdrawn out affair that will poison Eu business for months or even years. Among problems to be resolved is the status of Britons resident in Eu countries, probably on a country-bycountry basis. The use of a referendum is extremely rare in Britain, with its centuries of parliamentary democracy. Many political analysts had warned that

hen I woke on Friday 24th June, it was with an uneasy feeling that would get progressively worst over the next few hours. “They voted to leave,” said my partner sadly, a new Zealander with a British passport and strong ties to the uK. This idea of ‘they’ – as opposed to ‘we’ – made me wince. I am Welsh and usually proud of it, but as I reached for my phone and pulled up Facebook, it was with horror that I saw my constituency had voted 60:40 to Leave. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been surprised (the same locale put uKIP in second place in last year’s General Election), but I also couldn’t help but recoil in shock to read that a place which has benefited hugely from millions of Eu investment in an almost countless number of areas jobs, culture, public facilities, technological and scientific development, roads, town centres, marinas and ports, railway stations, even under 20s rugby... - had rejected it. But, of course, the story is the same right across England and Wales in ‘working class’ towns such as my own in south Wales. As one reader I spoke to put it: “There seemed to be some dream of Britain becoming a strong sovereign state and leading a charge where all the other countries in the Eu will leave, but in fact, this is an idea that has no basis in reality. The tragedy is that the people who thought this are in the poorest areas of the uK and will be hit hardest by Brexit.” While it is a simplistic argument to say that Leave voters have had the wool

Cameron’s decision to hold a direct vote on such a many-faceted issue as Eu membership was risky, even rash. In scotland where, as in northern Ireland, the result was heavily in favour of staying in the Eu, nicola sturgeon, the scottish nationalist Party leader and first minister, said she wanted a new referendum on scottish independence, one that is likely to succeed unlike the last such vote in 2014. If so, the Brexit referendum will not only have damaged the Eu, but it will have caused the breakup of the united Kingdom itself. none of this stopped nigel Farage’s triumphalism after weeks of acrimony in which he and others took frequent liberties with the truth. Brexit, he boasted, had been won without a ‘shot being fired’. It had no doubt slipped his mind that a pro-Remain Labour MP had been shot and stabbed to death by an extreme-rightwing attacker near her yorkshire constituency office just eight days before. Jo Cox, 41, will be forever remembered as the tragic victim of an act of political brinkmanship. 

pulled over their eyes by their leaders – they would themselves could talk of Remain’s ‘Project Fear’ – I think that this disastrous result is largely down to miscommunication, a misuse of facts (sometimes outright lies), and a wide reaching mistrust of political superiors. In the aftermath of the results being announced, Google Trends showed how thousands of Brits were frantically googling ‘What is the Eu?’, ‘What does it mean to leave the Eu?’ and ‘What will happen now we’ve left the Eu?’ It’s embarrassing. It is clear that both sides missed out on an excellent opportunity to educate and this is the truly upsetting thing. There was, in my opinion, nothing wrong with the basic facts that the uK will face years of uncertainty outside of the Eu, but these seem to have been thrown to one side in preference for arrogance, ego and petty triumphs. If there’s one thing I hope that comes about because of Brexit, it will be that people of all ages, but most importantly those just starting out in adult life, get more involved in politics. While the result is one I far from wanted, I hope that this Brexit leads to a positive, social reform of the political stage and at the heart of this is a desperate need for better understanding and integration from people of all walks of life. Let’s not look backwards despairingly, but look forwards with collaborative strength. Everyone needs to be involved and aware of the implications if the uK is going to figure this out properly. 

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rsvp abroaD Hosting dinner parties in the four corners of the world

Finding a job you love - and live for - is often a hard-won triumph. For a lucky few determined to follow their ambitious, it is, although, a challenge worth taking. in the midst of Cannes Lions, riviera insider met with rSvP abroad presenter Julie Bensman to talk about how she turned her passion for travel into a profession. By ELSA CARPENTER

Photo JULIE BENSMAN TRAVELLED TO LIMA, PERU, FOR THE FIRST EPISODE OF RSVP ABROAD

hen we met in late June at Le Bouche à Oreille, a zany wine bar in the backstreets of Cannes, Julie Bensman immediately stands out from the crowds. Tall, blonde and tanned from her trips abroad, the new york native navigates the hustle and bustle with the impeccable ease you’d expect from a woman well-accustomed to the manic streets of Manhattan. At 32, Julie has reached a turning point in her career. Having worked in various media companies in the us, she is now an accomplished free

lance presenter, producer and writer with clients across the globe, including the BBC in London. That’s why she’s here in the south of France: to film the next instalment of her travel show, RsVP Abroad. The BBC Travel and BBC World news-sponsored slot sees former red carpet presenter Julie dropped off in a foreign city - “With nothing and no one to help me” - and just 48 hours to get together the ingredients, guests, décor and table for an authentic dinner party featuring the traditions of her new-found location. The crux of the show is that Julie must use social media traveller tips from the BBC Travel networks to pull it

off. she first came up with the concept following a last minute holiday to the Portuguese island of Madeira with her cameraman boyfriend at the time. “It was the cheapest flight out of Bristol,” Julie laughs. “We’d been staying in southwest England with my ex-boyfriend Will’s family and were looking for a quick getaway somewhere in Europe. I started having a look online at things we could do on the island, but there was barely any unique, insider information. As many of my previous jobs have involved social media, I thought I’d try that out and started tweeting

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at every @Madeira handle I could find: ‘Where should we stay? do we need a car? What should we see?’” Her modern-age approach worked and before long, Julie was in touch with a man called don, who was living on the island and was keen to share his knowledge of Madeira. “When we arrived, we met up with don to buy him a drink and say thank you for all his help. Will took his camera along and ended up filming most of our exchange. It was a lovely evening of chat, good food and wine. I came away from the island with the blossoming concept of a travel-meetssocial media show.” In the months running up to her direction-changing trip, Julie had applied through a friend for a deputy travel editor role at BBC Travel. she didn’t get the job - “The editor-inchief pointed out that while I had writing experience, I had never really done any travel journalism” - but she did make a great contact with her interviewer and they decided to stay in touch. “After we got back from Portugal and had talked through the idea, putting together the gorgeous raw footage we had from Madeira and inserting fake social media comments as suggestions, I called her up to arrange a meeting. I showed her our originally titled From Twitter to Table. Thankfully, she liked it.” Together, they worked in the concept of throwing a dinner party in 48 hours and RsVP Abroad was born. In February 2015, Julie and Will flew out to Lima, Peru, to film their pilot on a 10,000 us$ budget: An Epic dinner Party Quest in Lima. At least here Julie had a little help from a former roommate, Lisi, whose family owns Casa de Aliaga, the oldest house in south America. Reaching out to BBC Travel fans on Facebook and Twitter for their suggestions, Julie put together an

itinerary of places to visit such as the seafood Chorrillos district, the Bioferias market for fresh fruit and vegetables, and lively cocktail bar Ayahuasca for a Pisco sour. Qatar Airways came on board as sponsors for the flights and over the next few months, the pair travelled to Istanbul (The True Value of Turkish Hospitality), Athens (Eat, drink and Be Merry) and Venice (Where World Travellers Fall in Love) to film follow-up episodes of the four-minute show. Viewers watch Julie journey through the markets and honeycomb streets of the cities she visits, looking for fresh and traditional produce to use at her dinner parties. The people she encounters along the way are invited to the event on the final night. during her visit in Cannes, Julie has met up with Colgan’s Brewery founder Andy Colgan to taste his beers, stocked up on her groceries at the Marché Forville in the Le suquet neighbourhood of Cannes and plans to visit a cheesemaker in Valbonne. Our rendez-vous takes place on the eve of the dinner party and Julie is looking forward to what the night will entail - “Everyone we’ve met so far has been such a character!” Her next stop after the Côte d’Azur is an all-together different coastal destination: Belfast in northern Ireland. In the autumn, Julie and her team will be travelling to Asia to film four additional segments in Bangladesh, sri Lanka, the Philippines and singapore. The Cannes episode is due to be released in november, with the Irish trip expected to go out in december. “RsVP Abroad is a passion project for me,” she says. “It’s meant lots of late and sleepless nights, but it’s without doubt a highlight of my career!” All of the published episodes are available now on BBC Travel online. bbc.com/travel 

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Main photo THE USS SPRINGFIELD IN THE BAY OF VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER

Riviera Insider journeys back in time

liTTle america in villefranche By PETRA HALL

From 1956 to 1967, villefranche-sur-Mer was an american Navy homeport and during this time, some 230 US families lived in the little Mediterranean town. The legendary Mère Germaine, who opened the still popular restaurant in 1938, became an almost surrogate mother to the many sailors stationed here far from their hometowns. Her granddaughter, valérie Blouin, founded the non-proﬁt organisation Les américains et la 6ème Flotte à villefranche-sur-Mer to bring this unique era back into living memory.

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valérie blouin: a walk down memory lane Valérie has never met her grandmother and nor has her brother, Thierry, who is now in charge of the historic restaurant on the seafront, but they still feel close to ‘Mom Germaine’ - as the American sailors called her almost as if they had grown up around her. “When we were young, we heard so many stories about her that we decided to bring them back to life with our association Les Américains et la 6ème Flotte à Villefranche-sur-Mer. We founded it to keep alive the connection between the us, Villefranche and the La Mère Germaine restaurant,” she explains. “Our remarkable grandmother is still very must part of the present here, in our daily lives and family roots.” The non-profit organisation now counts a hundred members - both French and American - who all have their very own stories from the period. “It was a time that stood for peace, liberty and joy after World War II deprived people of many things,” Valérie and Thierry agree. “The Americans brought their way of life to Villefranche with music, chewing gums, clothes, chocolate, Coca Cola and ice cream. They let orphans take a look around their ship, joined the fun at local festivities like the Combat naval Fleuri and threw parties in the town’s streets. In the afternoon, they would bring their record players into the restaurants and - sure enough - start dancing rock’n’roll. They left their mark on the homes they rented by using marine paint to decorate the façades. Our club members still cherish those happy moments in their hearts.” Germaine Halap, as was their grandmother’s real name, came to Villefranche from the Loire-Atlantique region of France in 1925. 13 years later, she and her

Top photo THE LEGENDARY MOM GERMAINE SURROUNDED BY THE SAILORS OF THE US FLEET

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husband Louis Brau opened their restaurant in the little coastal town. “People still ask about her today and remember her compassion with tears in their eyes,” says Valérie, having a hard time hiding her own emotions. “After the war, people in Villefranche were very poor. she helped everyone as well as she could, but above all, she took care of the very young us sailors, who were so far away from home. On the wharf right in front of her restaurant, some sailors had to keep radio contact with the ships in the bay - in any wind and weather. sometimes she’d bring them a hot soup, sometimes a hearty breakfast, sometimes fresh water. she gave them a shoulder to cry on and handed out good advice to anyone, regardless of their military ranks - she also befriended artists like Jean Cocteau! The sailors passed on her name from ship to ship and the us navy even bestowed their honorary titles upon Mom Germaine. she died in 1959, but will never be forgotten in the memories of the many she helped.” The American sailors stationed in Villefranche-sur-Mer have moulded the town’s character, even more so than previously anticipated. On 20th January 2017, it will be 50 years since us sixth Fleet left her homeport for her new Mediterranean base in Gaeta, Italy. To mark the occasion, Les Américains et la 6ème Flotte à Villefranche-sur-Mer is planning a big ceremony and have invited many contemporary witnesses with the support from the municipality and in partnership with us navy League French Riviera-Monaco. 120 American veterans and their families have already confirmed that they will attend and the us sixth Fleet will also return to its former homeport.

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LEFT PHOTO FRENCH-BORN DAVID WITH HIS LONG-LOST FATHER JACK MCMULLIN

Jack mcmullin: The long-lost father They were very young when they fell head over heels in love in 1965 and if the Vietnam War hadn’t come between them, they might have still been together today. Auvergne-born Rolande souligoux moved to Villefranche-sur-Mer at the age of 18 to follow her dreams of becoming a chef. Jack McMullin was a smalltown boy, born and bred in Blair, nebraska, a town of around 8,000. When he was 18, he joined the us navy and served on the warship uss springfield, which until 1967, was stationed in Villefranche. This is where those two young souls from different continents met. Rolande was shy at first and rejected Jack’s advances, but in the end, the attraction between them became too strong. They fell in love, moved in together and enjoyed every moment they had. Jack wanted to stay there forever. But then everything happened in a flurry. In May 1966, Jack was ordered away from the Côte d’Azur to fight in Vietnam. He was distraught. Why? Just before the ship left the harbour, another sailor had kneeled down in front of Rolande and proposed to her in front of everyone. she took the ring - just to throw it in the water. Jack’s fellow sailor, who had seen the incident, told him of the proposal, which upset and angered Jack greatly. He left. shortly after Jack’s departure, Rolande found out she was pregnant. she tried to reach the Commander, the ship’s vicar and Jack’s family in puritan America. In a sad twist to the tale, they appear to never have shown the mum-to-be’s desperate letters to the young man, but Jack heard the rumours. He asked a friend in Villefranche to swing by at Rolande’s house and find out if she was really pregnant. This ‘good friend’ told him that it had all been

a misunderstanding and that Rolande was not pregnant after all. A blatant lie, as it turned out later. Rolande’s son david souligoux entered the world on 22nd september 1966. His dad, who was at this point stationed in Vietnam, was completely unaware of his birth. The small boy first started missing Jack when he went to school and the other children asked about his father. At a school party, he dressed up as a sailor. He wanted to be like his dad, who his mother had told him about. The desire to meet his father grew even stronger during david’s teenage and early adult years. After several professional experiences he became a policeman in 1992, shortly after he married his wife. david tried again and again to get in touch with his dad in the us, but only in the early 1990s as the internet made research all the more easier did real hope flare up. Feverishly, david collected all documents he could get his hands on and compiled a comprehensive file with the help of the American embassy in nice. Thanks to a website for American veterans, he discovered his father’s address, but his high hopes were crushed. The letter he sent came back: ‘Returned to sender’. Later, the reason would become clear: the address was that of Jack’s holiday house, where he only stayed from time to time. david was crestfallen, but refused to give up. Finding his father had become an obsession. In early 2009, he visited Ellis Island with his wife, who had always motivated and encouraged him to keep on searching. At new york’s former immigration gateway, they found the name McMullin on an immigration list. A hint of destiny? Then david discovered the Office for Veteran Affairs in saint Louis. Another trace! After three weeks of research, he held a piece of paper with his father’s current address in his hands. But fear started creeping up on him. Would anything come of it? Would his father be interested to learn of his first-born son? He looked for help to pen a letter in English: “I don’t want anything from you, but I just had to find you…” On 5th May 2009, he opened his mailbox and found a letter from America: ‘sender: McMullin'. “I couldn’t bring myself to open the envelope at first,” says david. “When I finally opened it, I only managed the last line: ‘do you want to stay in touch with me?’ Jack had enclosed a photograph of himself and his wife. That’s when I began to weep. My father wanted to get to know me! When he received my letter, he said he was close to fainting!” The age gap between the two men is 19 years. Both are policeman. Both have the same blood type, the same allergies. david looks like his grandfather. david’s son looks like Jack. Jack also has three more children, which means david has half-siblings he did not know of - just as they did not know of him. Emails started flying back and forth between France and the us. On 13th August 2009, the former navy sailor visited his long-lost son and his family in saintJeannet. It was a day to remember.

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The plane landed in nice at 10.45am. “My heart was throbbing so much, I thought everyone must be able to hear it,” david remembers. “Then he appeared. We looked at each other and fell into each other’s arms. Everyone cried. Immense joy filled the emptiness of the last decades. We kept on talking and going through photo albums for three weeks. My dad had taken French classes for three months before his trip. My mum was quite upset at first, she had never really forgiven him. now the two get along a lot better.” Ever since this first encounter, the families visit each other regularly. They have even organised a McMullin reunion of over 100 guests. Jack has officially recognised his son and now david is fighting for the right to call himself McMullin. When father and son visited Villefranche for the first time together, the old man broke out in tears: “I never thought I’d ever come back here!”

henrY baTchelDer: The navigator Left photo HENRY BATCHELDER AS A YOUNG MAN Right photo THE FORMER NAVIGATOR TODAY IN MONACO

When Bostonian Henry Batchelder heard about the us sixth Fleet flagship springfield at Officer Candidate school, he thought to himself, “I have to go!” It was a decision that would shape the rest of his life. “I thought they might need someone who speaks French,” says Henry now, who in younger years studied in dijon for a year as a Fulbright scholar. In July 1964 at the tender age of 23, he was assigned his first duty aboard the 185 meter long cruiser. He was later appointed to navigation where he eventually headed the 15 man team until springfield left the Mediterranean in 1967 - an important task, which left no room for mistakes. “In the navy, every officer has a primary duly and several side jobs. I, for example, had to take care of foreign claims. If one of our liberty boats bringing sailors ashore accidentally damaged a local fishing craft, for example, the us navy would cover the cost of repairs,” says Henry. “during these years, I shared a villa on Cap Ferrat overlooking the bay with a group of other officers - for 25 dollars a month each! It was a wonderful time. My wife, who comes from Monaco, tells people, ‘Batch did his Vietnam in Villefranche’.” “When entering a foreign port, we fired a 21 gun salute in honour of the host country at precisely 8am from a previously designated point outside the harbor,” he recalls. “I’ll also never forget the evening that Prince Rainier and Princess Grace dined aboard ship as guests of the Admiral.” “Whenever we returned to Villefranche from operations at sea, we were delighted. When we departed for the last time on 20th January 1967, everyone aboard felt incredibly sad. It was the end of an era. The quality of life here was priceless; it couldn’t have been any better. The crew’s love of Villefranche was truly touching.” Henry left the us navy after the ship’s return to Boston and eventually became an international banker. Today he lives in Monaco with his wife. “This wonderful area kept pulling me back.”

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whose mother ran the Les Hirondelles restaurant in saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, worked at the usO to improve her English. The young musician led a fine life on board: “We were around 30 musicians and every morning we played the American and the French anthem. Afterwards, we had two hours to ourselves to rehearse and then we were free. We could go on land and walk around in plain clothes, but we had to be ready and in uniform at 7am every morning. Many of us were renting hotel rooms and stored our clothes there. sometimes, on top of our instruments, we had to carry drunk band members back home,” he laughs. Lee and his colleagues played dance music at the usO’s club. They often struck a bargain with bar owners: free drinks for free music. sometimes they were called on deck to play at the Admiral’s private dinner parties or receptions. Their skills were also in demand when the sailors had to fill up the ship’s tank on sea, a task they considered extremely boring. “We played Glenn Miller and Count Basie, duke Ellington and marches. The atmosphere back then was incredible, almost the whole time felt like a holiday!” He finally married his Jeannine in the American Church in nice, a protestant, English-speaking church that has now become a French speaking protestant temple. in 1963. After two-and-a-half years aboard the springfield, he went back to the states with his wife, but they eventually returned to the south of France. The Indianaborn American did still not speak a single word of French and so he started from the bottom: peeling potatoes in his mother-in-law’s restaurant. “Bit by bit I learned the language, but the music suffered,” Lee says wistfully, but he has never regretted his decision to move back. 

HISTORICAL BACKDROP

lee crofTs : The musician “Try to get into the navy’s music programme,” his teacher told him in 1959 and soon after, Lee Crofts was accepted onto a one-year training programme in Washington dC. Back then, many ships had their own band on board and when the 20-year-old with the tuba was asked where he wanted to go, he opted for the Mediterranean. He would stay there forever. Once he had arrived in Villefranche, he went straight to the united service Organisation (usO) in nice, which was taking care of American sailors and their families abroad. “And I married the first person I met there,” Lee recounts with a smirk. Jeannine, a young French

Top photo LEE CROFTS IN HIS HEYDAY IN THE BAND Bottom photo LEE CROFTS TODAY

in 1949, as the Cold War was erupting, 12 member states formed the NaTO defence alliance. For strategic reasons, the american Navy made the Côte d’azur one of their Mediterranean naval bases. The US Sixth Fleet, which was founded in 1950 to carry out manoeuvres in the Mediterranean Sea, comprised 60 warshipss. it was stationed in Nice, Cannes, Golfe-Juan, Juan-les-Pins and Beaulieu-sur-Mer between 1956 and 1967. villefranche-sur-Mer became the base for its flagship USS Salem, later succeeded by the Desmoines, the Springfield and the Little rock. During the time, 230 officers’ families lived in the small town and shaped its life: american administration, mail services, schools bars and supermarkets were everywhere. Many French and americans also exchanged marital vows. as France withdrew from the NaTO, the US Sixth Fleet was called back from the Côte d’azur in 1967. Within two months, all US families left villefranche, which caused the town to suffer massively economically.

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Top left photo FROM LEFT: BERNARD D'ALESSANDRI, PIERRE CASIRAGHI, PRINCE ALBERT II AND MIKE HORN © Franck Terlin Top right photo MIKE HORN’S ONLY COMPANION: PANGEA © Mike Horn SARL Right photo THE 35M ICE-BREAKER KETCH ANCHORED OFF MONACO IN 2016 © YCM/C. Conterno

expeDiTion pole2pole Mike Horn weighs anchor from Monaco By CLAIRE LATHBURY

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year after his beloved wife, Cathy, lost her battle with breast cancer, south African-born adventurer Mike Horn cast off from Monaco in early May on an ambitious voyage the two of them planned years ago: a circumnavigation of the globe vertically from ‘Pole2Pole’ in a continuous expedition. Ahead of him lies some 42,000km of terrestrial adventure, supported by his 35m ice-breaker ketch Pangaea (the most recent supercontinent that broke apart some 200 million years ago) for the epic’s ocean legs. If all goes well he’ll be back in Monaco in two years’ time having, among other feats, been the first man to trek alone and unassisted across the entire 7,000km of Antarctica: “That should take four months,” he reckons. Alternating sailing, skiing, kayaking and an all-terrain 4x4, his first stop is Africa. From Monaco, he will sail down to namibia then starts his crossing of the namib desert in a 4x4 before following in the wake of elephants on foot - “They know where the water is.” From there, it will be on to the Okavango delta “Keeping an eye on the antelopes who avoid lions” with the African stage finishing in his birthplace of Cape Town. next stop is the Antarctica traverse pulling a 250kg sled of supplies before he takes on the Pacific, Pakistan, Himalayas and Japan. The expedition ends in Greenland with an 8,500km crossing in the north Pole region. The ultimate destination will then be the place he first cast off, Monaco, in 2018. One of the great modern-day explorers, this is the man who riverboarded on a hydrospeed down the entire length of the Amazon; circumnavigated the world at Latitude Zero alone and without motorised transport; and completed the first solo circumnavigation of the Arctic circle, also under his own steam. so what drives this conqueror of the impossible who turns 50 this year? A mixture of ambition, the fact that ‘real life is beyond the comfort zone’ and inspiring others to make their dreams a reality. Central to the research and educational aspect behind all his expeditions is the need to protect the environment, hence the connection with Monaco. Prince Albert II, President of the yacht Club de Monaco, which hosted Horn’s send-off, is a big fan and attended the conference organised at the Port

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Top photo MIKE ABOARD HIS VESSEL © Franck Terlin

Bottom left photo PRINCE ALBERT II WITH MIKE AND HIS TWO DAUGHTERS ANNIKA AND JESSICA © Franck Terlin

Hercule club where the explorer presented his project. Asked by Riviera Insider if he wishes he’d been born in another century, when an unmapped world was being discovered, there was no hesitation. “no,” said Mike firmly. “What appeals to me is the emphasis today on education. Thanks to modern communications, people can come with me, share my experiences and learn.” Actively involved in preparing for the voyage were his two daughters, Annika (23) and Jessica (22), for whom Horn, despite all his absences, remains ‘our father, our inspiration’. “Cathy always gave me the freedom to do what I wanted to do,” said the explorer in a moving tribute to his wife. “she was the one who dealt with all the partners, logistics, educated my daughters, everything. she is still with me today in Annika and Jessica.” 

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summer escapes

The wine of summer Le Lavandou’s Domaine de l’Anglade For three generations, the van Doren family has carefully cultivated their award-winning crop in the heart of the var.

DOMAINE DE L’ANGLADE’S WINES © Claire Hagopian

estled between lush vegetation, pine woods and Provence cane, just shy of the sparkling coastline, lies Le Lavandou’s only vineyard. This domaine of some 40 hectares - including 18 hectares dedicated to the grape - has been cared for heart and soul by the Van doren family for three generations. The vines are cultivated using traditional methods - the harvest is done completely by hand early in the morning in order to preserve the grapes’ nocturnal freshness and fine flavour - and without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilisers. Through their natural approach to the vineyard, the Van doren’s have achieved the highest distinctions for their wines under the quality label IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) Maures. Today, they are served in some of the finest restaurants and are recognised for their prowess as award-winning wines. Reflecting the heritage of the Côte d’Azur, much of the domaine de l’Anglade’s wine production is of the rosé variety with three prodigious bottles: Tradition, a fresh wine ideal for pairing with Provence cuisine; Rosé d’Anna, a

fine and elegant wine; and the limited edition La source, a sublime assemblage of merlot and grenache grapes. Bernard Van doren’s sole white wine, Le Blanc, has a surprisingly fresh and fruity taste, which has been well-appreciated on the competition stage and won the vineyard a Prix d’Excellence earlier this year. Two reds complete domaine de l’Anglade’s offerings: a single varietal wine that enjoys a long soaking and contact with the grape skins, Merlot; and Le Brocard, an exceptional wine of pure Cabernet-sauvignon. All of domaine de l’Anglade’s wines are managed 100% at the property, from first growth to the final sealing of the bottle. The vineyard’s wines can be purchased in caves across France and also online at the Van doren’s e-boutique, but if you are visiting the area and would like a truly authentic wine tasting experience, you can contact the vineyard directly and arrange a dégustation at the stonelined cellar. It’s a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the story of winemaking, with guided tours of the vineyard also available. domainedelanglade.fr 

WINES TO TRY THIS SUMMER Le Rosé d’Anna 2015 Gold medal winner at the Concours Général Agricole 2016 in Paris and a silver medal winner at the ELLE à Table competition organised by the fashion and lifestyle magazine Le Rosé Tradition 2015 Winner of a silver medal at Paris’ Vignerons Indépendants in 2016 and bequeathed a commendation at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2016 in London Le Blanc 2015 Winner of the Prix d’Excellence at the Vinalies Nationales 2016 competition as well as a bronze medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2016 in London La Source 2015 & Le Merlot 2013.

DINNER AT ZPLAGE © Didier Bouko

Dancing on waTer Summer at Zplage ake one dash of La Croisette glamour, one shot of clear waters, a sprig of gourmet cuisine, a sprinkling of golden sand and stir in some musical flair: the perfect cocktail for a summer of relaxation by day and dancing by night. now where to enjoy it? To that question, there’s but one answer. Zplage in Cannes. By day, the private beach of the five-star Martinez Hotel is a paradise of tranquility, cool vibes and the very best of international cuisine. Chef Christian sinicropi has created a mouthwatering array of Mediterranean flavours merged with dishes inspired by his exotic trips abroad such as the ceviche de la mer from Chile’s santiago and Tokyo’s mi-cuit tuna, which compliment the menu steeped in deep sea fish and meats cooked above a wood fire oven. A plat du jour and accompanying dessert costs 38 euros. Guests can take a refresher from the sunshine with healthy juices, smoothies and virgin cocktails freshly prepared to order or indulge in a signature Zplage cocktail from the mixologists on Bar La Rotonde from 15 euros. Zplage is open from 9.30am to 7pm during July and August and hiring a sun lounger on the soft, sandy beach starts at 32 euros with cotton towel included. By night, the beachside venue comes alive with music from resident dJ Maggy smiss and à la carte dining from 6pm throughout the summer season. ‘Fairy tale’ gala dinners have been organised for each night of the Festival Pyrotechnique de Cannes (reservations are recommended) and Zplage will also be screening all live uEFA Euro 2016 football matches at 6pm and 9pm. Other highlights of Z.nIGHTs include soul music evenings (6th, 23rd, 24th July and 20th August), performances by crooner Henrick solera (16th, 31st July and 14th, 27th August), upbeat and eclectic sets by The siani Band with Max Corfini (9th July and 5th August), and jazz by Ronnie Jones (28th August). cannesmartinez.grand.hyatt.com 

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summer escapes

fuTure face of anTiaging riviera insider meets creator and founder of this wellness and beauty retreat, ronit raphael, on the sun-kissed terrace of her Beauty Spa at Cannes’ Grand Hyatt Hôtel Martinez to explore the luxury brand’s latest treatments.

RONIT RAPHAEL - CEO

Retivalise your skin and soul at L.RAPHAEL Beauty Spa By ELSA CARPENTER

t’s a bright and blisteringly hot summer’s day when Riviera Insider arrives on the private rooftop terrace of this five-star beauty address, but Ronit Raphael - the owner and driver of inspiration behind L.RAPHAEL Beauty spa - is refreshed and relaxed in the scintillating sunshine. despite her fast-paced, international schedule that sees this impressive woman criss-cross the globe every month of the year, there’s not one sign of fatigue. Ronit’s fresh-faced and glowing appearance is a testimony to the innovative products and treatments her spas are renowned for on the luxury beauty circuit. Our rendez-vous at the eminent Martinez hotel coincides with the swiss beauty brand’s launch of its new ultra Power C Lift treatment, which combines ultrasound technology with an electrical pulse that uses a powerful melange of rejuvenating antioxidants. The follow-up product - Power C Cure - is a daily mask to be used over 30 days to target the effects of antiaging. The mask is applied to the face and left for 20 to 25 minutes for maximum effect. “The Power C Cure product can be used from home to continue the process,” says Ronit. “It soothes blemishes and discolouration of the skin using a cocktail of vitamins to neutralise the signs of anti-aging. Vitamin C is a natural wonder product!” L.RAPHAEL Beauty spa joined the Martinez hotel in 2012 and offers 900m2 of luxurious beauty and wellness space in the brand’s signature full orange colour coupled with a sumptuous décor and attention to detail. The main stage is accompanied by the gym, hairdressing and dining facilities as well as a beauty bar just off the foyer of the hotel’s entrance on La Croisette.

Facials begin at 170 euros for a 50 minute session and the brand’s signature dead sea body treatments, which offer tightening, detoxifying, toning and healing properties, start at 480 euros. There is an extensive range of massages available such as the warm volcanic stone massage with lavender oil for 180 euros or the anti jet lag and energy restoring full-body massage with aromatherapy oils for the same price. Premium treatments include the Power Oxy-Lift Caviar facial for 1,385 euros and L.RAPHAEL’s innovative diamond Oxy-Lift facial for 1,780 euros. The L.RAPHAEL Beauty spa brand - which has outlets in a number of highly-distinguished establishments around the world including new york’s Four seasons Hotel and Hotel Montage Beverly Hills as well as dedicated facilities in Geneva and Kazakhstan - is a world leader in skincare technology and an active pioneer in scientific research in the cosmetic and medical aesthetic industry. since a distressing skin-scarring incident in her late teenage years, Ronit has made it her goal to study the science of skincare and began working with dermatologists to create effective skincare treatments and high-performing products. “These have been developed by Professor Meir shinitzky, a world leading expert in cell membrane research, dr Raphael Gumener a former president of the swiss society of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic surgery, and myself,” she says. “It is because of my personal experience and my studies that I have become deeply convinced that beautiful skin for all ages is achievable. With this conviction, I founded L.RAPHAEL. I had never dreamed or planned to devote my life to a career in the aesthetic field!”  l-raphael.com

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escape To The counTrY Fairways to inﬁnity pool at golf and spa resort Terre Blanche By ELSA CARPENTER

Top photo THE DRAMATIC WATER FEATURES OF THE LE CHÂTEAU COURSE, COMBINED WITH ITS INTRICATE BUNKERS AND GREENS, CREATE A TESTING, BUT ALSO PLAYFUL ENVIRONMENT Right photo THE FIVE-STAR SPA RESORT AT TERRE BLANCHE PROVIDES ALLDAY LUXURY FOR GUESTS

s the beaches and coastal towns fill up with the usual throngs of tourists and holidaymakers, there’s one place where you can still enjoy the dawn till dusk sunshine and glorious views of the French Riviera undisturbed:

Terre Blanche. Tucked away in the hinterland of the Var, but still within a 30-minute drive from Cannes, this 750-acre, five-star golf, spa and hotel resort offers serenity and seclusion in lush abundance with all the authentic feel of traditional Provence.

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For golf players, there is the choice of two 18-hole championship golf courses, which were designed by dave Thomas. The ‘elaborate greens’ and steep fairways of the exclusive Le Roui course belie magnificent views out and over the Provence villages below, but golfers should be reminded to keep their head firmly in the game as this is a demanding course that requires strong and strategic play. The course is limited to club members and their guests as well as clients staying at the hotel. The dramatic water features of the Le Château course, combined with its intricate bunkers and greens, create a testing, but also playful environment. Its inclusive appeal is reflected in its prestigious status among the top 15 courses in continental Europe and as the location for the French Riviera Masters Championship. Guests and day visitors at Terre Blanche can enjoy the virility of the resort’s golfing venues with a number of choice packages. The driving range and lunch package (39 euros per person) allows players an entire day’s access to the resort’s driving range and a two course lunch at the club house’s Les Caroubiers restaurant. The green fee and lunch package (from 130 euros in low season) entreats guests to full day access to the 18-hole green, limitless access to the driving range if you feel like getting some precision practice in before the game, a golf cart with in-built GPs, and the two course lunch. Bringing together the two leisure strengths of this award-winning destination is the comprehensive golf and spa day package (starting from 260 euros per person from 1st september to 22nd October after which the price is reduced to 195 euros per person), which includes unlimited access to the driving range and 18-hole golf course with golf cart, access to the spa, its indoor pool and fitness facilities, and a 60minute massage. A healthy lunch at the spa’s Infusion eatery or at the club house is also offered at an additional, but very reasonable 29 euros per person for those indulging in the golf and spa package. While the diversity and beauty of the golf course is certainly something to be admired, Terre Blanche’s spa is a truly extraordinary haven of wellbeing and relaxation. From 1st september, guests can treat themselves to a day-long Journée détente with total access to all areas of the spa, vaulted indoor pool and fitness centre, as well as a nutritious two-course lunch from 99 euros per person. For 175 euros during the same period, guests can also enjoy an hour’s massage of choice by one of the spa’s excellent qualified masseuses as well as all other package benefits. From 515 euros a night for a deluxe suite at Terre Blanche, guests can revel in all of the luxuries of the resort: a buffet breakfast, one green fee with cart, access to the renowned Albatros Golf Performance Centre, unlimited access to the spa, one treatment or massage, and free accommodation for children under 12 – all a couple or family could need to share quality time and precious moments under the sun this summer.   terre-blanche.com

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summer escapes

an archipelago paraDise One of the purest natural reserves in the south of France, the Port Cros National Park has become an emblem marine and terrestrial conservation not only in France, but across europe.

sponsoreD bY

Exploring Port Cros National Park by land and sea By ELSA CARPENTER

s we board the ferry from the presqu’île of Giens, the islands of Port Cros, Porquerolles and Île du Levant rise lush green and unblemished on the horizon. A smooth 30-minute boat ride to our first stop on Porquerolles takes us over some of the clearest waters on the Mediterranean coast that hum with marine life and sea birds circle overhead. This has been a protected reserve - the first of its kind in Europe - since 1963 and it shows. Hundreds of aquatic creatures, algae and coral life have made this archipelago destination their home under the careful protection of the park. some 180 species of fish dart in and out of the rocky crevices of the islands, making the park an almost unrivalled diving spot in the region. Throughout the summer season, the park has laid on free snorkelling tours of Porquerolles’ coast and its impressive marine biodiversity, which are completely free and last up to an hour. Visitors to the scenic islands can also find out more about the protected animal and plant life of the islands, such as the resident reptiles and insects, migrating and seabirds, and its colony of bats. The next stop on the ferry is Port Cros, a place with an unusual and sometimes troubled history. It was

known to the Greeks as ‘Messea' and Roman graves, an aqueduct and several farm ruins discovered on the crossed-shaped island suggested an ancient colony may have been formed on its hills. Monks from Cannes’ Lerins islands also made this site their home in the fifth century, but would later be driven out by marauding Barbary pirates in the second half of the millennium. Port Cros would continue to change hands between France and England before a German garrison arrived at the end of WWII, leading to the Battle of Port Cros in 1944 against a league of American and Canadians commandos - the devil’s Brigade - who recaptured the island for the allies in August that year. The last owner of the island, Madame Henry, bequeathed the land to the French state in the 1960s on the promise that a national park would be formed. Aside from its pristine beaches and coastal walks, there are dozens of forts from across the ages waiting to be explored by the adventurous visitor. From the eastern fringes of Port Cros, the Île du Levant seems almost within touching distance. Ferries frequently visit this island too, although most prefer to enjoy its setting as nature made them. As much as 90% of the Île du Levant is off limits to the public - it has been a missile testing centre and military zone for almost seven decades - but the rest of the island is now a flourishing nudist colony! The island is yet to join the national park, but there are hopes that this haven could too come under the protection of the park in the future. The tiny islands of Ilôt de la Gabinière and Bagaud, close to Port Cros, are wild reserves and docking is completely forbidden as is anchoring along almost the entirety of their shores. The main islands of Port Cros and Porquerolles are also widely protected, with enforced regulations for anchoring and motor boat activity. daily ferries depart from Port de la Tour Fondue, Port d’Hyères and Port du Lavandou regularly throughout the summer. Return tickets to Porquerolles cost 19.50 euros for an adult. A return journey to Port Cros is 28.10 euros and a two island circuit (Port Cros and Île du Levant) pass costs 31.50 euros. dates and reservation details for all of the summer’s guided tours and underwater expeditions can be found on pages 70 and 71.   portcrosparcnational.fr

WE LCOM E ALTHOFF HOTEL VILLA BELROSE

« In the heart of the French Riviera, the Althoff Hotel Villa Belrose***** is now part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. In a unique location on the hill of Gassin, near Saint-Tropez, you will enjoy a spectacular view out over the bay, between Saint-Tropez to the right and Sainte-Maxime to the left. In addition to the outstanding situation, the Althoff Hotel Villa Belrose knows to impress through its 40 guestrooms and suites decorated in a contemporary and classic style, with a highly

personalized service. The hotel’s restaurant “Le Belrose”, presided over by Chef Pietro Volontè who was awarded a Michelin-star this earlier year, whose Mediterranean cuisine perfectly complements the beautiful sea views from the terrace. Benefit from the luxury of the hotel at the beauty center as well with treatments and products by Niance or at our heated swimming pool of 200 sqm overwhelming the Bay of Saint-Tropez.”

Q T HE

F IN E DIN IN G DE ST IN AT ION S

Althoff Hotel Villa Belrose Q Boulevard des Crêtes Q F-83580 Gassin

Phone + 33 (0)4 94 55 97 97

villa-belrose.com

info@villa-belrose.com

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summer escapes

skY high experiences

lanD, air & sea Escape the rush with smart summer travel The days of endless sunshine have ﬁnally arrived and the Mediterranean sea is a sultry 24°C. almost everyone welcomes the tropical temperatures of a French riviera summer, but as thousands descend daily on the coast during July and august, there’s another (more unwelcome) factor to add to the seasonal equation: bumper-to-bumper, gridlock traﬃc. very year seems to bring worsening jams to the roads of the region. This summer, Riviera Insider decided to break away from the clogged up boulevards and motorways of the south of France and try out some clever travel options that will take the pressure off your holidays. step away from the wheel and join us as we explore the low-cost, low-stress alternatives.

iTalY bounD If comfort, convenience and great coffee rank highly for you when planning a summer escape, Italian rail company Thello is the answer. Departing daily from towns and cities on the Côte d’Azur - Marseille, Toulon, Saint Raphaël, Cannes, Antibes, Nice and Monaco - Thello’s ‘new generation’ trains head into Liguria, hugging to coastline to Genoa, then turn north towards Milan. Climb aboard with your loved one for a romantic weekend away or take the family and furry companions (pets are accepted on all trains provided they meet legal standards) on a jaunt through the lush, rural countryside of Lombardy from as little as 15 euros one-way (a four-hour journey from Nice to Milan). As France’s first passenger train operator, Thello offers fuss-free travel with no changes to a dozen Italian destinations such as San Remo, Alassio, Finale Ligure, Voghera, Pavia and the capital of the north, Milan. The route was launched one Thello’s network some 18 months ago, joining the overnight link between Paris and Venice, and has gone from strength to strength in the last few months. There are now three daily connections between the south of France and Italy leaving in the morning, at lunchtime and later in the afternoon (departing from Nice at 8am, 2pm and 6pm). All trains boast dining carriages, first and second class seating with reclining chairs, baby-friendly services and modern amenities. Bookings can be made online and at Thello counters.  thello.com

Uber rose to prominence in France in 2015 as the country tried to clamp down on its (extremely) cheap taxi fares, but the American start-up fought back in its usual inventive manner with the launch of helicopter service UberCopter. From 160 euros per person per trip, the company picks its clients up from Nice airport in a chauffeured car and deposits them at the heliport for the seven-minute flight direct to Cannes’ city centre. Other than offering spectacular views of the French Riviera from the air, the service cuts travel time in four and promises a safe and comfortable flight between the region’s two, great cities.  uber.com

islanDhopping Love a fresh, salty breeze on your face and endless sea views? Perhaps Moby Lines’ recently launched Nice-Corsica ferry will appeal to you. Casting off from the port of Nice for a leisurely sail to the northern tip of the island, Bastia, this cheap and cheerful daily crossing takes seven and a half hours by day or a gentle nine hours at sea by night (prices starting at around 20 euros one-way). A long weekend in the coastal capital of the Bagnaja region, trapped between the rugged mountains and the clear Mediterranean sea, is ample time to explore its beaches on foot or by kayak and its cultural sights - we’d recommend a hike to the Glacieres de Cardo, a manmade collection of 16th century ‘refrigerators’ that were fed by the glacial waters coming off the surrounding mountains, for stunning, almost untouched views of the island. If you’d like to spend more time soaking up the culture, you can pick your way across Corsica to Bonifacio and jump on the 50-minute ferry for a day trip to Sardinia’s Santa Teresa di Gallura.  mobylines.com

Refined and gourmeet with a bistro-style menu featuring the ver y best of the seasons and produce of o the Mediterranean.. Live music everr y M Monday ondayy, Wednesday and a Friday Friday in JJuly uly and August.

2 EXCEPTIONAL SEA VIEWS, ONE AMBITION, E X C E L L E N C E . A rellaxed atmosphere with ser vicce from 12pm to 10pm. Follow the Route des Indes to the Villa Ker ylos and let Jasminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu take you on a journey ney far away away. y.

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renaissance of le bœuf

Beefbar arrives on La Croisette By ELSA CARPENTER

here’s something about a good piece of beef that makes it stand out from other meats. Cooking it perfectly requires exceptional skill, particularly when that ‘perfection’ is incredibly subjective and almost always differs according to personal taste. The French bred their cattle for power and a leaner meat while the British have historically yearned for a more tender, fatty and succulent cut. some love the earthy flavours of a grass-fed beast and others prefer the delicate tastes of beef raised on barley and rye. Aged 35 days or fresh from the butcher’s block, Riviera Insider challenges you to find another meat that can cause such a dinner table discussion or debate! Thankfully, among the French Riviera’s range of great restaurants, there’s one name that caters to the palettes of all self-respecting carnivores: Beefbar. The Grand Hôtel de Cannes flirted with the luxury Monaco beef brand during the Cannes Film Festival and, following a very healthy response, the prestigious establishment has decided to bring the Beefbar back to its private beach for July and August. Prepare yourselves for a true meat feast. From 10am to 8pm throughout the summer season, La Plage 45 is celebrating beef in all its finest forms with a contemporary, street food-style menu from the hotel’s head chef Thierry Paludetto and beach restaurant’s sylver simonet. Taking diners on a veritable voyage of discovery to the four corners of the world of beef, the menu invites you to sample the melt-in-the-mouth wares of Argentina, America, Australia and Japan. Choose from three menus - Gourmet Burger Bar for 20 euros, Menu Tagliata for 27 euros and the traditional French Bistro

THAnKFuLLy, AMOnG THE FREnCH RIVIERA’s RAnGE OF GREAT REsTAuRAnTs, THERE’s A nAME THAT CATERs TO THE PALETTEs OF ALL sELFREsPECTInG CARnIVOREs: BEEFBAR.

Menu for 21 euros - or give in to your desires and go for a mouthwatering à la carte experience. “Only at Beefbar do we use a dual cooking process,” says simonet. “First, our meat is seared in wood-fired oven, the charcoal embers give it a slightly smoked taste. After resting at room temperature, the meat is then seared for a second time at an extremely high temperature, in a patented oven, creating an instantaneous crust around the muscle.” discover central Argentina’s stunning grass-fed Rioplatense beef, which comes from young cattle smaller than most European breeds, but don’t let that put you off - this beef has an unusual yet satisfying fibrous texture, low fat levels and a delicate taste on the tongue. Australian beef from the rich farmlands of southern Queensland has grown in prominence in recent years and now exports its sweet, moist beef across the world including to La Croisette’s latest carnivorous address. It is well worth a taste if you’ve never tried it before. Or perhaps America’s prized Black Angus beef, a hormonefree beef reared on the nutrient-rich plains of the Mid West, is more your style - it has become a favourite worldwide for its lasting, sumptuous flavour. The last on the à la carte list is Japan’s revered Kobe beef. It has achieved a cult following among gourmands across the world for its exquisite tenderness, superior flavour and intricately marbled meat. despite its ‘fatty’ appearance, Kobe actually has more omega-3 and -6, and lower cholesterol than any other beef. Kobe is something of a new Age ‘discovery’ thanks to tight (and secretive) Japanese laws that have protected the prized animals from cross-breeding for centuries. There are reports that some farmers massage their cattle daily with beer to relax the muscles and even play the cows classical music to lull them to a calming sleep at night! subject to availability, two types of this luxurious beef can be ordered at La Plage 45: 120 euros per 100g (grade 6) and 140 euros per 100g (grade 9). It’s not for nothing that this rare and precious Japanese meat has become known as the finest beef in the world. For those a little more price-conscious, but still eager to taste the delectable delights of Kobe beef, Beefbar has created a street food-inspired taster menu featuring mini Kobe and Black Angus burgers (nine euros), baby Kobe tacos with a jalapeño salsa (12 euros), Kobe and Black Angus barbagiuan (12 euros) and a Kobe cecina (37 euros for 50g). Our tip is the Kobe short rib ravioli with kale and truffle for 36 euros. If beef isn’t really to your tastes (and you’re still reading), Cannes’ Beefbar also offers a delicious selection of seafood and vegetarian dishes such as the prawn ceviche with dashi bouillon and sweet potato and lime purée (17 euros), kale salad with avocado, parmesan and lemon zest (19 euros) or the devastatingly tasty Mediterranean red tuna tartare with avocado, wasabi and yuzu ponzu (22 euros). All can be enjoyed from the five-star luxury of La Plage 45’s sun loungers and Bali-style day beds with a glass of wine or a freshly-made cocktail from the bar. Reservations are recommended.  cannes.beefbar.com

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THE GOuRMET BIBLE 25 years of cuisine in Provence by Jacques Gantié

One night in Le Faventia Stars collide in the kitchen at Terre Blanche

wo Michelin-starred chefs are uniting this July at Terre Blanche for one exceptional evening of haute cuisine. Le Faventia restaurant’s head chef Philippe Jourdin welcomes back into his kitchen a fond, former student; stéphanie Le Quellec. The esteemed chefs – who have a Michelin star apiece – will work side-by-side on the night to create a menu true to the duo’s gastronomic excellence and experience. It’s been six years since stéphanie, a winner of France’s Top Chef competition, last worked the kitchens of the five-star Terre Blanche resort. now executive chef of the La scène restaurant at the Prince de Galles hotel in Paris, stéphanie is looking forward to the date when she can tie her apron strings once again next to her mentor Philippe. “Our work together is seamless,” says stéphanie of her former mentor at Terre Blanche. “We’ve reached that stage where we don’t even need to speak, it is complete harmony.” Head chef Philippe is equally complimentary of his culinary companion, saying, “she is the new generation of chefs incarnate... Those who hold high the colours of our profession, instinctive and sensitive.” Together, Philippe and stéphanie have created an exotic seven-course menu that features the flavours of faraway – Tahitian vanilla, fresh ginger, lime and Thai spice – as well as traditional French and Mediterranean ingredients, for which the pair share equal passion. For the dinner on 23rd July, guests can enjoy dishes such as caviar from the sologne region of France and a saint Jeannet foie gras in Muscat with a fresh fruit marmalade. There’s also freshly lined caught fish with buckwheat and Tahitian flavours, blue lobster roasted in Thai spice and served with a pineapple and pepper chutney, and pigeon with foie gras on a nutty base and irresistible cherry and blackberry jus. The dinner costs 195 euros per person excluding drinks and reservations can be made directly with the Terre Blanche hotel.  terre-blanche.com 

or a quarter of a century, journalist and food critic Jacques Gantié has been awarding his signature olive branches to the restaurants of the south of France. His gourmet bible to the region celebrated its momentous anniversary in the presence of the many chefs who have filled his pages at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel. He knows almost every chef of the Côte d’Azur and Provence personally. Gantié has followed the careers of each individual with genuine interest, critiquing their developments in the kitchen with his sound knowledge of what makes a great restaurant - and he should know, as a former winner of the national Prize for Best Gastronomic Criticism in print media in France. The Guide Gantié has been an indelible aid to gourmands of both the amateur and the connoisseur variety over the past two and a half decades, providing brief yet concise descriptions of the many hundreds of restaurants in the region. From the exemplary Michelin-star addresses of the French Riviera to quaint, backstreet bistros in the sleepy towns of the rural hinterland, Gantié caters to every wallet. At the launch of his 2016 edition, Gantié revelled in the company the chefs he has encountered over the years at a unique gathering in Monaco’s prestigious Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel. spatulas, aprons and toques were downed for the day in kitchens across the south of France and instead came together for a wonderful afternoon of sharing as Gantié’s subjects served up small samples of their skills. With sushi appetisers followed by a hog roast, there were certainly no empty bellies by the end of the night…  guidegantie.com 

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Left photo JACQUES GANTIÉ AS HE CELEBRATES THE LAUNCH OF THE 2016 EDITION OF HIS GUIDE Right photo PHILIPPE JOURDIN AND STÉPHANIE LE QUELLEC REUNITE AT LE FAVENTIA

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nighT’s skY anD morning sunshine Riviera Insider gets a sneak-peek at Isabell Kristensen’s summer collection. er beautiful catwalk models certainly fit the bill, but danish designer and Monaco resident Isabell Kristensen tops them all when it comes to charisma and attractiveness. In addition to her boutique in London, for many years the mother of four has also owned an exclusive fashion outlet featuring her collections in the prestigious Rocher quartier of Monaco, just a few minutes’ walk from the palace. The multi-talented designer first rose to prominence having designed a decadent dress for singer shirley Bassey. Among her other high-profile clients, Isabell has dressed leading ladies such as Princess Charlene of Monaco (who chose the dane as her Maid of Honour for her wedding to Prince Albert II), Kate Winslet, Helena Christensen, Jerry Hall, Ivana Trump, nicole Kidman and member of the British royal family sarah Ferguson. she has also turned her perfectly manicured hand to jewellery design, working with acclaimed silverware brand Georg Jensen. The present of this fashion house is now all about the future and Isabell is excited to push her self-titled brand forwards with her son Martin, a handsome 23year-old, who with his warm smile, approachable attitude and strong sense of professionalism is a true reflection of his charming mother. The last few years have seen the young man become ever more invested in the various branches of the company. It’s hardly a surprise considering he was born in London during a fashion show. “Martin pays a far better attention to detail than myself,” says a proud Isabell to which her son immediately counters, “But my mother does nearly everything!” Her inspiration seems endless: couture, prêt-à-porter,

Bottom right photo ISABELL KRISTENSEN WITH PRINCE ALBERT II

bridal wear… she’s even created seven bespoke fragrances and has begun working on her homeware line as well as her brand’s next collection. In sweden, her soft, Egyptian cotton and luxurious cashmere wool collection line for the home has already been met with great success. despite her decades of experience, the dane often finds it difficult getting to sleep with all of her ideas rushing through her mind - lace panels, delicate beading, faux fur in bright and playful colours - though not all reach the runway. Isabell unveiled her latest summer collection, Les Beautés de la Côte d’Azur, during a sophisticated evening at the Club des Résidents Etrangers de Monaco (CREM) in June. destined to adorn the bronzed bodies of the French Riviera, the collection combines luxe materials with a contemporary style. The colour palette: pale yellows, cream, violet and brocades in midnight blue. “I prefer the traditional look with a twist for my designs,” she says, “the finest materials with a modern edge.”  isabellkristensen.com

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#reiss Aﬄuent British brand breaks into France By ELSA CARPENTER

A reference to the coastal location

Top left photo REISS’ DYNAMIC COLLECTIONS HAVE FINALLY ARRIVED IN FRANCE Top right photo THE NEW STORE AT POLYGONE RIVIERA

he clean lines, insouciant design and slick, structured tailoring of this emblematic British brand would be well-suited to the voguish streets of Paris, but Reiss has pointedly side stepped the allure of the world’s undisputed fashion capital in favour of a hotter destination: the Côte d’Azur’s Polygone Riviera. The luxury designer Gallery at the northern point of Polygone Riviera is the setting of Reiss’ French flagship store - the only outlet for the brand in the country. It is a decidedly ‘sculptural’ location using a crisp architecture against foliage and driftwood. “A reference to the coastal location”, explains the architect, dorrien Hopley. “It’s a luxurious environment with a nod to nature. A design-led aesthetic is at the heart of the Reiss brand and that’s what we try to recreate within the stores. There is a certain continuity

to each of the interiors, with clean lines and a fresh overall aesthetic remaining prominent throughout, and this modern approach reflects that of both the men’s and women’s collections.” situated neatly mid-way between red carpet Cannes, photographic nice and the decadence of Monte Carlo, Polygone Riviera offers the brand access to not just one market, but to the entire French Riviera coastline. design-led, creative and insisting on quality in all areas, Reiss calls its style ‘modern and directional with an uncompromising commitment to delivering innovative and original products’. It offers sophisticated collections of prêt-à-porter fashion for men and women as well as accessories and footwear, allowing Reiss to occupy an almost unique positioning in the uK as a brand that is somewhere between designer and high street. The fashion label is currently undergoing a serious period of expansion. At the moment, it operates over 60 successful stores on the British high street and as many as 100 outlets overseas in 15 countries. The number is set to rise by an additional 40 addresses by the end of 2016, with recent launches in Toronto and Melbourne, and imminent openings on new york City’s Madison Avenue and in Miami, but until now, Reiss has been yet to earn its tricolor stripes in the uK’s closest neighbour. “We are very pleased to be opening in France this year,” says owner david Reiss, “and we are convinced that this market will welcome the beauty of our brand.” The decision to open on the French market follows a decade of welcoming countless British brands such as Topshop, superdry and Primark on the capital’s great boulevards and avenue, but the fashionistas of the Côte d’Azur can be pleased knowing that, for once, their streets have been chosen as the catwalk instead of Paris. 

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new aDresses for Your fashion DiarY

The Majestic line from Olivier desforges’ spring-summer 2016 collection.

#olivierDesforges Fine French linen at Polygone Riviera Renowned French linen brand Olivier Desforges has opened in Polygone Riviera’s Quartier des Arcades. The now international name remains deeply engrained in its heritage, using the softest, natural materials to offer linens for the bedroom, bathroom, beach and living room in a variety of contemporary and classic styles.  olivierdesforges.fr

It’ll be hard to resist hitting the shops instead of the beach with these exciting designer summer openings on the Côte d’Azur... By ELSA CARPENTER

#longchampmonaco An accessories heaven Famous French brand Longchamp has opened its first Monaco store on Avenue de la Costa, in the heart of Parc Palace. The two-floor boutique - spread over 100m2 features not only the brand’s entire retail collection, but also a number of products exclusively available to the Monte Carlo clientele. The store itself is luxe with a harmonious colour scheme of warm, light beiges and greys. Marble flooring and exotic, precious wooden accents such as ebony pair with leather to create a contemporary, but sophisticated feel. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7.30pm.  longchamp.com

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#bugaTTimonaco Luxury brand opens innovative lifestyle concept After Tokyo and Munich finally comes the Monaco launch of Bugatti’s latest boutique. The Fairmont Hotel store brings together the cars with the luxury French marque’s lifestyle collection in a unique setting that gives clients the opportunity to experience the allencompassing values of the brand: art, form, technique and flair. Hoping to create the perfect ambience for the opening, Bugatti brought in a brand blue Bugatti Chiron - the world’s most powerful and exclusive production ‘super sports car’ - for display in the new boutique. “Monaco is inseparably linked with the brand history of Bugatti. Louis Chiron, who gave his name to our new super sports car, was born here and became a legend when he won the Monaco Grand Prix in 1931,” said Dr. Stefan Brungs, Member of the Board of Management of Bugatti Automobiles S.A.S. responsible for Sales, Marketing, Customer Service and Brand Lifestyle, at the official inauguration. “Monaco is the focus of the international jet set, the harbour for the most luxurious yachts and the perfect location for the world’s fastest, most exclusive car.” The innovative location allows clients to configure their Bugatti in-house with all design elements and accessories controlled intuitively using tablets in the opulent lounge area, which features furnishings and home décor from the newly inaugurated Bugatti Home Collection. The lifestyle section of the store presents the Ettore Bugatti Collection as well as precious items from Bugatti’s finest timepiece partner Parmigiani Fleurier and writing implements from Montegrappa and glass art from Lalique. The store is open every day of the week from 10am to 7pm during the summer months as well as by appointment.  bugatti.com

#Diorcannes New lease of luxury on La Croisette As Cannes prepared for the launch of the Film Festival in early May, the team at Christian Dior Couture were also getting ready for the red carpet launch of the new Dior boutique on the Croisette. Entirely designed by architect Peter Marino, the new luxury venture occupies an domineering position at 7 Boulevard de la Croisette. Combining the brand’s signature prêt-à-porter wear, accessories, leather goods, horology, jewellery and footwear over three floors of glamour, the new location also included a selection of Russell Woodard’s sculptural furniture, lamps by Wouter Hoste, and an animated mural by Oyoram. In a hark back to Dior’s heritage on 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, the store has been designed with a classic, muted grey and white colour palette and neo-Louis XVI medallion-back chairs. Dior Cannes is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm.  dior.com

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business

a hearT of golD? Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou By ELSA CARPENTER

at the invitation of Monaco Press Club, riviera insider met with entrepreneur Sir Stelios Hajiioannou at the Yacht Club of Monaco for an interview about his work, his philanthropic endeavours and his life in ‘international’ Monaco. scion of a great Greek-Cypriot shipping family, stelios must have always known where his strengths would lie. After a spell under his father’s wing and a Masters degree in shipping, Trade & Finance, stelios went on to found easyJet in 1995 when he was just 28 years old. Although it wasn’t without help: “I asked my father for some money to start a business and he was crazy enough to give me the money to start an airline.” stelios’s start-up funds are reported to have been a whopping £30million, but while the financial support might have come easy to the self-titled ‘serial entrepreneur’, the mammoth responsibilities of launching and managing what rapidly became a highly successful business fell squarely on his shoulders. “In 2000, I made a very big decision to float the company on the stock market,” says stelios. “I figured I’d rather own a third of a much bigger company than 100% of a smaller one. It gave us the capital to grow without me having made that difficult decision, I don’t know where we’d be.” The more from private to public, from total ownership to a third, was an interesting one and unusual too, but it wasn’t quite as astonishing as the fact that prior to the sale of stocks and shares, stelios ensured that the brand was safely in his hands and his hands only. “I own the name easyJet. I kept the entire ownership of the ‘easy’ brand in my private company. Investors don’t often put money into a company that doesn’t own its name, but it’s allowed me to expand the brand. The next logical step after an airline is a hotel (we have around 21 at the moment), rental cars, buses, transport, gyms… you must have heard about the easyFood phenomenon. I opened a store in London and said ‘Everything’s going to be 25p’. The British media went mad. It got so much coverage and we had

Photo SIR STELIOS HAJIIOANNOU WAS SPEAKING AT A CONFERENCE HOSTED BY MONACO PRESS CLUB

people lining up outside the doors and down the street! The ‘easy’ name is my pension fund. easyJet pays my company easyGroup a quarter of yearly revenues. When I retire to Monaco, that’ll be my pension.” It’ll be some pension. Today, easyJet alone is one of the biggest companies listed on the London stock Exchange. It has 250 aircraft and around 70 million passengers a year: “Whatever number I give you will be out of date - the company is always growing.” With all this business savvy and success, it is all too easy to forget about stelio’s impassioned engagement with philanthropic and charitable causes, many of which the Athens-born magnate created himself. “When I’d made a bit of money from easyJet, I decided it was time I should be paying back,” he says. “I’m one of those people who believe that the wealthy have a debt to pay, an obligation, and that’s to society.” His primary efforts go into funding scholarships, supporting entrepreneurs, protecting the environment and providing food for the hungry in Greece: “I have a budget of around three million euros a year.” “10 years ago, I went back to the universities that I’d studied in - London school of Economics and the City of London university and promised them 10

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scholarships a year each. There are 200 students now who have benefited from one these scholarships and I’m getting all of them together in Monaco to try and encourage them to do the same, to give something back.” His work with entrepreneurs is dedicated to supporting disabled business owners achieve their dreams. severely disabled British sailor Geoff Holt is just one example. In 2010, wheelchair-bound Holt sailed across the Atlantic on his yacht Impossible dream and became the first ever quadriplegic to do so. In 2015, Holt applied for the stelios Award for disabled Entrepreneurs 2015 and won, having been handpicked by stelios for first place and a £50,000 prize fund. “Geoff now wants to sailor around the world,” says stelios, “Can you imagine the courage that would take? He has the complete support of the yacht Club of Monaco and myself. We want to see him circumnavigate the world.” stelios has also extended his entrepreneurship support scheme to Greece where he hopes to help and inspire young Greek people to start their own businesses. “It’s very hard there,” he says. “Greece is a very difficult country to start a business in and last year we only found seven people under 40 who were doing so.” The country of his birth and that of his family remain integral parts of stelios’ character. His parents were both born in Cyprus and moved to Athens shortly before stelios - the second of three children - was born and he still has strong ties with both nations. “Cyprus is a small island, but an unusual one. There are about one million people split into two groups: two thirds Greek-Cypriots and one third Turkish-Cypriots. They’ve been divided for 41 years and for the last eight, I have been providing financial help to get people talking, to bring people together.” stelios has already invested two million euros into the project that has seen the creation of ‘bi-communal’ cafés in which people can meet, talk, discuss and do business whilst feeling safe and comfortable. “I’m a realist,” he states, “but watch this space, I think something positive will change there in the next year or so. I will stay out of politics - it would be a disaster - but I support peace and lasting peace. I think I have a good compromise [in Cyprus]. I can help with supporting progress without being political.” Back on the mainland of Greece, stelios is also involved at community level. “Food from the Heart was inspired by France’s Restos du Cœur,” he tells Riviera Insider. “We distribute food parcels of traditional Greek food throughout the country to anyone who comes to our sites. There’s no discrimination against background, age, religion or race. We have 15,000 people coming to us every day it shows how troubled Greece really is.” “you see people in their 60s wearing good clothes standing in the line. They’ve worked all their lives, but have lost their pensions. It’s hard to see people going backwards.”

I am aware I am being very blunt, but in my opinion, there are two motivations for charitable giving: guilt and ego... I’m not adverse to being saddled with playing to either of these.

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Food from the Heart began on a small scale but, like most things this businessman touches, it rapidly outgrew the original idea and now they operate on an industrial level. “We’ve teamed up with the Greek Church too,” he explains. “They are very influential in Greece and we give them food to distribute through their own systems and channels.” At the heart of stelios’ philanthropy, however, is a dilemma: “If you give someone food, you help them live another day, but if you give them education, they can grow, start businesses and become their own person.” Thankfully, stelios finds himself in a place that is pretty good at raising funds for charitable causes. “I spend most of my time here in Monaco so it would be inconceivable for the principality not to be involved,” he says. “We’re lucky enough to have wealthy people here who are giving back; fundraisers in Monaco really do work. I hold an annual cocktail fundraiser for the WWF with Prince Albert II in Monaco - we raised over 190,000 euros in one night in 2015.” Of course, there have been no ‘humble beginnings’ for this shipping heir, but he is refreshingly frank. “In my opinion, and I am aware I am being very blunt, there are two motivations for charitable giving: guilt and ego. I’m not adverse to being saddled with playing to either of these.” “I don’t own a private jet. When I’m travelling in Europe, I fly easyJet and I pay my ticket like everyone else. At the start of the company, I’d fly alongside the passengers, introducing myself, asking what they thought, trying to deal with any complaints. now I can travel without being disturbed because we’ve got it right!” he says with a laugh. He is very content with his life in Monaco, noting the safety and security he feels here, the weather - “I was born in Greece in the warmth, I’m used to the water, these are things that make me who I am” - the cosmopolitan way of life and the openness to foreigners - “We’re all foreigners here so everyone is welcome” - and the quality of services available as his top four reasons for living here. “Of course, I haven’t mentioned the fiscal advantages of Monaco,” he says with a hint of mischief. “Many countries can offer that, but they don’t have the same advantages as Monaco. This is somewhere you live, it isn’t a ‘Panama P.O. box’, so I focus on the top four.” When it comes to making time for business, the relaxed lifestyle of the French Riviera and Monaco does seem to have had an effect on the tycoon. “I don’t keep a timesheet of my day, I barely know what time it is, but I’d say it’s roughly a three-way split: a third for easy business, a third for my charity work and philanthropy, and another third for my private business and investments. I own 12 properties in Monaco that I rent out and I can tell you that does take some time!” “I don’t really get involved in the day-to-day business of my companies anymore, but I have heard there is a flight from nice to Mykonos this summer!” 

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business

is a sociĂŠTĂŠ civile immobiliĂ¨re necessarY or noT ? as an owner of a property in France, you can choose to set up a SociĂŠtĂŠ Civile ImmobiliĂ¨re (SCi), but you need to consider carefully whether it is really necessary for you to use this structure or not.

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JEAN-PHILIPPE GIOANNI, TAX ADVISOR AND CONSULTANT IN CANNES ÂŠ Fabien Prauss

sCI is a French company that is constituted for the ownership and management of a property - it is a nontrading company. It must respect some obligations such as having a company bank account, preparations of a set of annual accounts, holding an annual general meeting... If there are several properties and/or owners, the sCI can be very useful for the management of your unfurnished properties when letting. It is important to know exactly what you want to do with your property too: keep it, sell it, use it or transfer it? The sCI allows management flexibility because it is the most suitable form of ownership for a family or a group of persons. For a couple who are neither married nor

in a civil partnership, it offers advantages in relation to French inheritance laws. The ownership is clearly divided, financial participation regulated, rental income correctly divided and periods of occupation can be stipulated. The articles of the company need to be carefully prepared to be clear. Another important reason to set up a sCI is the transfer of the property: ď ˝Gradual transfer of property to children - you can make tax-free gift transfers to children every 15 years (100,000 euros per child) and generally it is easier and cheaper to transfer shares of a property (particularly if there is a debt in the sCI); ď ˝Parents can choose a special ownership structure (nuepropriĂŠtĂŠ/usufruit);

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ď ˝The surviving partner is protected from potential loss of the property; and ď ˝If you are non-resident, you can use, through the sCI, the property as you wish and avoid French laws on inheritance rights. However, there are no tax advantages with a sCI. due to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fiscal transparencyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, owners of the sCI are taxed as individuals, like private individuals (revenus fonciers). If you rent out your property through a sCI, it is very important that the property must be unfurnished. On the contrary, the company is not considered any more as civile, but as a trading company and will be liable to corporate tax (Is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ImpĂ´t sur les sociĂŠtĂŠs). On the other hand, if you have an important rental income and pay a lot of taxes, being subjected to corporate tax could be a welcome solution. The advantage of this choice is that you can depreciate the property, but you have more obligations. To conclude, you should think about the creation of a sCI before the purchase of a property according to your needs and expectations. Management flexibility and transfer of the ownership seem to be the most important reasons to choose this French legal structure.

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language learning wiTh likeminDeD people At IS Aix-en-Provence

nyone who has ever attempted learning a second language will know what a daunting task it can be. Once you’ve got the basics under your linguistic belt and you’ve practised saying the words out loud until they’re practically burnt onto your tongue, the next (terrifying) step is heading into a foreign world to try out your well-honed sayings. More than once, a newbie French-speaker has come a cropper in these simple, day-to-day conversations. Maybe your pronunciation wasn’t quite as on point as you thought or perhaps your test subject has come back at you in fast and fluid French, leaving you baffled as to what to say next… Is Aix-en-Provence, an international institute aimed at adults of all ages, hopes to banish language learning fears with its intensive programmes that not only teach students the French skills they desperately want to master, but also inspire confidence in the class members and provide them with the courage and competence to try out their French in

realistic situations. With over 40 years experience in language training at the highest level - all professors are educated to Masters standard in Modern French Language - the school provides a range of courses for adults of 18 and over, but as Olivia Virfeu de Vautibault from the admissions department says, “There’s really no limit to who we’ll accept, we welcome everyone: English, Americans, Canadians, Australians, Germans, swiss and many scandinavians. Our founder was swedish and the current director of the school is of the same origin, but we’re an extremely international school with students of all nationalities. The majority of our students are between 40 and 60; we have a lot of mature students who are either retired or in the region on holiday.” And what a beautiful part of France to spend that time in. Is Aix-en-Provence has recently moved into a new building to allow them to welcome disabled students to its courses and is now just a 10 minute walk from the famous Cours Mirabeau of the picturesque town. “The school is located next to the Parc de la Torse

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so has a very green and natural environment,” explains Olivia. “On the first day of classes, our students are evaluated on their level of French and then staff members take them out in town for a quick tour to familiarise themselves while we allocate them classes. The maximum class size is 10, but our average is seven. We group together students of the same level of French and always ensure people are comfortable where they are. We want our students to be happy. Many of our students learn French for professional reasons, but others are just attracted by our fantastic location in the heart of Provence ,” says Olivia. “Our weekly optional activities programme offers numerous possibilities: excursions, cooking classes, painting classes, winetasting, social activities etc. They are a compliment to the subjects students cover in their classes. Our teachers don’t work out of a textbook; each class curriculum is unique and inspired by anything from the news and current affairs to stories about Aix-en Provence.” Courses are typically two weeks in length, but longer term courses are available on request. The standard course of 20 classes a week (15 teaching hours) costs 640 euros for the duration and there is a one-off induction fee of 75 euros, but this is valable for three years. “We find that many of our students want to come back and continue their studies with us,” Olivia says. “We’ve got one lady at the moment who is here for her third summer!” To make their stay at the school smooth and easy, the school can also organise accommodation for its students in homestay facilities with a famille d’accueil - “Where they can continue practising their French…” - in private residences, hotels, and even studios and apartments. According to Olivia, it’s a service that almost all students take them up on. The international school places quality at the core of its values, something its accreditors certainly believe it has achieved. since 2007, Is Aix-en-Provence has been certified with the national French Foreign Language Quality label (Label Qualité FLE), obtaining three stars on each of the five criteria audited (reception and services, premises and equipment, teaching staff, courses, and management). The school is also a member of GROuPEMEnT FLE, EAQuALs and IALC. Testimonials from students past and present can be read on the school’s website and are a glowing account of how this established institution can helped countless amateur and advanced French-speakers alike achieve their linguistic goals.  is-aix.com

riviera

business

luxurY neTworking

bank charges highesT

Club Vivanova pairs business with premium wine

IN PACA

BRADLEY MITTON

he high-flyers of the business world meet on the terrace of a luxury, five-star establishment in Monaco or is it Milan, saint Tropez, Cannes or Barcelona? With over 60 gourmet networking events held annually at some of Europe’s most prestigious addresses, Club Vivanova’s has become the region’s fastest growing international gourmet wine club. Almost every event is a sell-out. The niche concept and unique Club Vivanova proposition, created by Berlin’s Mitton International Wines founder Bradley Mitton (pictured above), pairs business networking at the highest level with a gourmet wine experience. Through partnerships with premium establishments and an innovative approach to events organisation, Bradley is able to attract a

fascinating list of names from the business and professional sphere to his Club Vivanova evenings. Becoming a member of this exclusive club costs 90 euros per year. Part of the offer is a selection of three premium wines hand picked by expert Bradley, free VIP entrance to selected international club networking events throughout the year, bespoke travel assistance, international hotel upgrades and concierge services. It also includes discounts and special offers from the club’s respected partners (such as the 10% discount on private wine purchases from Mitton International Wines) as well as a three month subscription to Riviera Insider. upcoming events in the Côte d’Azur include the White Party on the Hotel Martinez’s Z Plage in Cannes (50 euros per person including premium wine tasting and gourmet canapés) on Tuesday 5th July, the daval International Business Lunch at the Fairmont Monte Carlo (50 euros per person) on Thursday 7th July, the sunday Lunch event at nikki Beach in saint Tropez (150 euros per person) on sunday 17th July, and the Rosé Party on the Hotel Martinez’s Z Plage in Cannes (50 euros per person including premium wine tasting and gourmet canapés) on Tuesday 2nd August. All bookings can be made at booking@clubvivanova.com. clubvivanova.com 

EFrench advice site choisir-mabanque.com has revealed its findings into a study of nationwide bank charges and the ProvenceAlpes-Côte d’Azur region has come out at the priciest end of the spectrum. The online survey considered the annual tariffs and services provided by more than 100 banks across France. While there is little difference offered by the various banks, residents in the south of France pay on average 10 euros more per year than their counter parts in Aquitaine Limousin PoitouCharentes, where charges are the lowest. The average annual charges in PACA are 132.37 euros 8% higher than the cheapest region. Head of choisir-mabanque.com Romain Espinasse puts this down to ‘the stronger presence of regional banks that have the freedom to set their own tariffs’. The report also noted that annual account fees have almost doubled in the last four years, from 13 euros in 2012 to 24 euros at the start of 2016. “It’s important to consider other banks who may be more competitive including other regional banks that might be less expensive. It’s worth looking at online banking, which is typically cheaper than using a traditional bank.” choisir-ma-banque.com 

a work-from-home fuTure

MONACO MOVES TOWARDS TÉLÉTRAVAIL

booming economY A positive ﬁrst trimester for Monaco in 2016 he latest figures for Monaco’s fiscal performance in the first quarter have proved strong almost completely across the board. Total takings are up 2.1% to 352 million euros against the same period last year (345 million euros) and are 8 million euros higher than expected. Tax revenues are up 5.5% to 264 million euros against 2015’s first quarter of 250 million euros. Expenditure has reached 338 million euros - a 15.6 million euro hike - and are 4 million euros less than

predicted over the first four months of the year. Income related to state-owned products and services is down 9.6 million euros (a 11% fall), although the government has been quick to clarify that this is due to the changing of the dividend payment date for Monegasque companies of which the state is a stakeholder from February to May, falling outside of the first trimester. Privately owned companies have seen an increase of 2.8 million euros - 37.6% - over the same period. 

Monaco is quickly running out of space and with commercial rental rates soaring, the principality has been forced to improvise. Governmental advisor and Minister for social Affairs and Health stéphane Valeri believes that Monaco can increase its number of workers three-fold, but only if remote workers are able to benefit from the social security advantages of the country. “There is a serious lack of business and desk space in the principality and many companies are unable to afford the offices they need in the face of high Monegasque rental rates,” says the minister. He argues that télétravail - working from home could revolutionise Monaco’s workforce and bring 8,000

additional jobs to the area. Following four years of terse negotiations between France over how the new legislation would work (employees working ‘in’ Monaco would benefit from the Monegasque social security system), Valeri has high hopes that the laws will finally be adopted by Monaco’s Conseil national in July. Monaco has more than 35,000 residents, but every day sees its population swell by an extra 50,000 workers who come into the principality from France and Italy. As Valeri argues, telecommuting and remote work could help to significantly bring down the amount of traffic in the principality, but also improve Monaco’s economic stature with the creation of thousands of more jobs. 

monaco exchanges

SHARES WITH TF1 French television group TF1 has bought out the Principality of Monaco’s 20% stake in Télé Monte Carlo (TMC) as part of a shares exchange, which enables Monaco to gain a 1.1% equity interest in TF1. “The transaction has no effect on the way the channel, whose head officea and operations are based in Monaco, is currently run,” said TF1. “This deal represents a step in the TF1 group’s ongoing multi-channel strategy.” TMC is frequently referred to as the channel of choice for 25 to 49 years olds on France’s TnT network. It focuses on four main areas: films, current affairs and investigative documentaries, French drama and entertainment. It often broadcasts English and American shows dubbed in French. TF1 has claimed that in 2015, the channel attracted the highest evening viewing figures across all French freeview channels. TMC is one of Europe’s oldest private television channels and was launched by Prince Rainier III in 1954. Its first major broadcasts were the coverage of the prince’s marriage to American actress Grace Kelly and the 13th Monaco Grand Prix. In a statement, the Principality of Monaco called the exchange of shares ‘an opportunity to remain associated with the success and developments of the international audiovisual group’. 

riviera

crT côTe D’azur saYs The measure will bring more balance To The hospiTaliTY inDusTrY

TalenT, inspiraTion anD communiTY conTribuTion

Airbnb to collect taxe de sejour

Nomination season for the annual Riviera Business Club Business Person and Business Start-Up of the Year awards is in full swing. Riviera Insider caught up with Chair of the Jury Dorothy Foster to learn more about these prestigious awards and how entrepreneurs of the region can get involved.

rom the start of August, online rental service Airbnb will automatically collect the French taxe de sejour in nice, Antibes and Cannes. The regional tourism committee for the Côte d’Azur has fought for some years for the ruling, which it says will bring more of an economically equilibrium between the French Riviera’s hotel industry and Airbnb. “Following my repeated demands to the French government, I am happy to say that we have succeeded in ensuring that Airbnb, the world’s first online community platform that allows holidaymakers to rent a property directly from the owner, will automatically collect the taxe de sejour from 1st August 2016,” says Cannes Mayor david Lisnard, who, together with the Comité Régionale du Tourisme Côte d’Azur, has supported the changes in regulations since the start. “This is the first step in achieving a commercial balance between homeowners who rent out their properties using Airbnb and our hotels, which are subject to heavy administrative and fiscal restraints. I am not in any way against the [Airbnb] model, which complements the traditional method of finding a place to stay, but it is important that we fight against unfair competition and instead fight for an ethical, commercial market.” The taxe de sejour – tourist or occupancy tax in English – has existed in France since 1910 and affects areas of the country deemed touristic destinations. From five-star hotels to basic camping grounds and even some ports and marinas, almost all types of accommodation fall under the fiscal regulation, which must be paid by the visitor per person, per night: rates in the south of France for 2016 range between 0.70 and four euros subject to the type of accommodation.

business

Riviera Business Club awards

I’ve known the founder of the Riviera Business Club, George Kasiliyake, for about 20 years,” says dorothy. “Three years ago, he asked me if I’d like to get involved and chair the jury for the annual awards.” The sophisticated business woman has been living in the French Riviera since 1989 - “I’d say I’m definitely a local now!” - and has worked across a range of sectors, but her career has a steadfast international bias. “I’ve been a lecturer of economics and, in the 1990s, I was the director of the International school of nice. I’ve worked on a range of international projects and now in my role at skema Business school, I’m managing the executive MBA program. But I have also owned businesses, four in fact, which I have sold on - two in the uK and two in France - so I have a great admiration for anyone starting a business down here. you have to be very resilient to survive. Last year’s Business Person of the year was Paddy nolan, who created the Manolan’s pub chain in nice and now in Cannes. He’s an absolute inspiration and a smart businessman, but he’s also very humble. I was talking about him recently, saying how well he had handled the pressure from the British press following the football matches in nice,” she says.

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“We’ll be accepting nominations for this year’s awards until roughly the end of september and then we’ll be moving on to the interviewing stage. Our jury panel is made up of some very busy people so it takes a lot of planning. Last year, we had around 20 nominees!” The 2016 jury brings together business personalities from across a broad range of industries: Riviera Insider editor-in-chief Petra Hall, CCI director of Ports Franck dosne, marketing and publicity aficionado sylvan Rouget, and hotelier extraordinaire Barbara Kimmig. “Together, we have such a huge amount of business knowledge,” says dorothy, “whether that’s experience in the hospitality industry, a background in economics and the financial markets or advertising and press. We are all consummate professionals and try to make the awards as fair and transparent as possible. My role as chair is non-voting. Instead, I welcome the applicant and oversee the judging and scoring. none of the jury members know the votes of the others - I’m handed their scores privately not even George is aware of the winner until he opens the envelope and makes the announcement!” Almost all nominations come from clients and people who have worked with the companies they put forward and, year-after-year, the Riviera Business Club awards demonstrate themselves to be totally international, totally gender neutral. “We have a very strict criteria that we use to appraise each applicant,” explains dorothy. “It’s not about money and how much the business owner is making (although we do request to see their accounts and financial performance). We like to see people who have had to struggle to achieve their goals, people who have had to

DOROTHY FOSTER HEADS UP THE JURY AT THE RIVIERA BUSINESS CLUB AWARDS

overcome their difficulties and obstacles, and people who refuse to be defeated - that shows true test of character. We also consider how well they have analysed their market, how many employees they have and how they motivate their staff, their personal and corporate impact in the local community, and how environmentally aware they are. Of course, the winner receives their award and the attached accolades, but all of our nominees have a short biography/report created and Petra Hall writes a profile, which is included in the programme. We have so many great entrants and nominees that it is often very difficult to pick a winner - some years, we could have two or three - so I like that we are able to give those that miss out some extra publicity. It’s a kind of ‘scaffolding’ that takes place at the events. We have some very high profile business personalities in attendance so the awards are a wonderful place for networking. It’s not a sales pitch, but it’s a good opportunity to introduce yourself and your business!” you can place your nominations for an entrepreneur in the French Riviera directly with the Riviera Business Club and the awards ceremony will be taking place in early december (final date as yet to be announced). rivierabusinessclub.fr 

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real esTaTe

eDen islanD A paradise isle in the Seychelles Peace and quiet become hot commodities in a French riviera summer so when riviera insider heard of a place that oﬀers just that, we couldn’t wait to ﬁnd out more. By ELSA CARPENTER

mid the scintillating, cerulean waters of the Indian Ocean lie the seychelles archipelago, a haven of some 115 petite islands. Conservation and preservation are of great importance to this oceanic nation, and from the jungle forests to the pristine beaches, coral atolls and prosperous marine biodiversity, much of the former colony remains untouched by the hand of man. so when the seychelles’ government decided to embark on a land reclamation project on the republic’s eastern fringes in the late 1990s, every effort was made to protect the purity and natural beauty of the islands.

riviera

THE ESSENTIALS

Roughly 4km² was reclaimed from the sea during the decade-long scheme; 0.5km² of which would be set aside for the future Eden Island. “It was earmarked for an upmarket development and Craig Heeger, the chairman of the Eden Island development Company, created the concept of a residential and commercial marina development - the first in the seychelles,” says Eden Island’s Peter smith. Just 200m off the coast from capital island Mahé and enjoying excellent access to the seychelles’ International Airport (a few minutes down the coast), the chosen site was a dead coral reef that had been severely affected by the El nino effect of the late 1990s. But two years after the development began, Eden Island’s dive team discovered that not all of the coral had met such a final fate. “In 2007, we found that some coral outside of the dead flat had started to regenerate,” explains Peter. “As we needed to continue with more reclamation, we decided that rather than destroying the coral completely, we would use divers to remove and replant it in deeper water.” Today, the marine and aquatic life around Eden Island is flourishing and diving the surrounding waters has become a central activity for those living and renting on the island. designed by leading south African architects dennis Moss & Associates, Raymond Alexander and Vivid Architects’ Paolo Viotti, the inspiration for the aesthetics came from the vernacular architecture of the seychelles, which combines its sundry heritage of French, Arab and Asian ancestry, as well as hints from the British Victorian era (the British controlled the islands from 1794 to 1976, when the seychelles achieved its independence from the Commonwealth). The designers chose to style the properties inside and out with a conscientious palette that reflects the natural environment of the seychelles: sand, shell and rock for apartments and maisons, and coral, granite and pearl for villas.

There are 580 properties on eden island, 505 of which have already been sold apartment prices range from 455,000$ for a one bedroom to 875,000$ for a three bedroom Maison prices range from 1,250,000$ to 1,800,000$ villa prices range from 2,745,000$ to 5,300,000$ for a six bedroom villa residential properties are sold with a freehold title all homes come with a private mooring on a 99 year lease in favour of the owner There are no cars in the residential area so every home is provided with a buggy Leases in the commercial precinct last 99 years international ﬂights arrive daily to the airport The international Marina can hold super yachts up to 100m in length eden island enjoys a mild, tropical climate throughout the year and safe, cyclone-free conditions at sea

real esTaTe

“Our homes are fully fitted with air conditioning in each room, Miele kitchens and en suite bathrooms, all to a very high standard of finish,” Peter explains. “Furniture isn’t included in the selling price, but we have developed a broad range of carefully selected pieces that can be bought and installed by the developer ahead of a buyer’s arrival to their new home.” “Among our clients, we count over 40 nationalities from around the world. The major sources of our buyers come from south Africa, the uK, France, Italy, the Czech Republic and the uAE. There are about 200 homes occupied all year round; some are owners and some are tenants as there is a high demand for longterm rental in the seychelles. Eden Island has become very popular among expats working here and looking to rent. Of the 580 Eden Island properties, 505 have already been sold and there’s only one six bedroom villa left!” Creating that quintessential tranquil and care-free island atmosphere has been at the centre of the project since its inception and the developers placed social and family life at the heart of their considerations when mapping out the islet community. “As well as home, there are four beaches, a clubhouse - where owners and visitors can gather for social events - a tennis court, a fitness centre, swimming pools, and a commercial precinct that boasts a hotel, Eden Plaza shopping centre, a supermarket, a health and beauty spa, a variety of restaurants and cocktail bars, banks, boutiques, an aquarium and much more,” says Peter. “The International Marina hosts many charter boat businesses where owners can charter yachts for a day or longer. We can also facilitate super yachts up to 100m in length!” In line with the nationwide holistic approach to the ecology of the seychelles, the developers chose to install a desalination plant on the island, allowing Eden Island to generate most of its water requirements. “On the social responsibility side, some of our homeowners got together to for the Eden Island Villa Outreach Programme to collect funds for community projects,” Peter says. “One of our homeowners has also started an Anchors Aweigh initiative, which entails the installation of mooring blocks in the marine reserve so that leisure boats can tie up to the blocks rather than throw down anchors and drag and break the coral in some areas around the seychelles’ inner island.” Every home possesses the stunning sea views that first made the seychelles a jet-set destination in the 1970s. Islands pepper the horizon in almost every direction as the Indian Ocean stretches magnificently and seemingly eternally. The islands enjoy a balmy, exotic climate that ensures a planate 30°C almost every day of the year, with the rains falling mostly between december and February: “Precipitation, however, tends to appear in brief, heavy showers immediately followed by tropical sunshine… Many visitors find the sporadic rain that does fall during their stay refreshing!”  edenisland.sc

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real esTaTe

sainTTropez Dreaming Delve into the real estate world of the Riviera’s most illustrious postcode it’s the a-list address that, since the 1960s, has thrived as the coastal playground for the wealthy and the influential. The transition from humble fishing village to the luxury jewel of the Mediterranean has led to an almost insurmountable rise in its real estate prices and with peak season in full flow, riviera insider spoke to Michaël Zingraf Christie's real estate property broker eric raphaël to find out just what it is that has made Saint-Tropez a must-have postcode in the portfolios of the super rich.

aint-Tropez’s emergence as a luxury destination happened overnight, with Roger Vadim’s ‘And God Created Woman’ starring the young Brigitte Bardot almost single-handedly transforming the sleepy harbour town of barely a few thousand people forever in 1956. saintTropez was instantaneously elevated to cult status among the international jet-set and before long, house prices began to match the sizeable wallets of its new type of residents. “The real estate market of saint-Tropez started taking flight in the 1960s and 1970s,” says Eric Raphaël from Michaël Zingraf Christie's Real Estate, “but the majority of the clientele was still French. It wasn’t until the 1980s

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Taking into account the current economic climate, buying property for the mid-term in Saint Tropez represents a extremely comfortable investment, in which buyers are very likely to have a good return.

real esTaTe

that buyers became more international. Today, 85% of buyers in saint-Tropez are from abroad and are representative of every European country.” “Taking into account the current economic climate, buying property for the mid-term in saint-Tropez represents an extremely comfortable investment, in which buyers are very likely to have a good return,” explains Eric. “There are no ‘unfavourable’ areas, but there are certainly those that garner more attention such as Le Capon or Les Parcs de saint-Tropez. Quartiers close to the beaches of Pampelonne and the town centre are also highly regarded.” so what makes a property - apartment, home or villa - stand out from the crowd if almost everywhere is of interest to buyers? According to Eric: positioning, floor space, the quality of its finishes and interior, the view “Ideally a sea view” - and the land it comes on. “In many ways, saint-Tropez can be compared to the other luxury destinations of Cannes, Antibes, saintJean Cap Ferrat, but buyers are choosing saint-Tropez because they can escape urban living and truly enjoy their time away. saint-Tropez is a unique place on the Côte d’Azur; it has an authenticity about it. Those buying in saint-Tropez want, before anything else, a lifestyle where they can combine relaxation and the livelier side of life.” Among his affluent portfolio of properties, three ‘dream’ homes stand out for Eric - and his clients, where money is no object. The first is a 500sqm contemporary villa that occupies a rare location on the saint-Tropez peninsular: “This property offers a perfect example of modern architecture with an amazing sea view, eight ensuite bedrooms and gorgeous landscaped garden of almost 6,000sqm”. An 11-bedroom villa with a lavish pool and outdoor area in the prestigious Capon area is the second. The 7,500sqm of ‘park’-sized land dotted with palm trees and a tennis court is just a few minutes’ walk to the beach and is home to a guest house and staff accommodation on top of the main house. The third maison de rêve is a more modest four bedroom home in a typically provençal style. sitting on 20,400sqm of seafront land that slopes gently away to the water’s edge, the spacious rooms all open onto the lush gardens and bask in sunlight almost all day long. Prices for an apartment begin at around 500,000 euros and can reach 7,000,000 euros depending on the location and amenities. Villas and estates start at 2,000,000 euros, but there are some in the region that have fetched an astounding 50,000,000 euros (if not more). The coastal haven’s real estate market tends to be limited to saint-Tropez itself and the neighbouring communes of Ramatuelle and Gassin, both of which constitute the ‘presqu’île’ area,” explains Eric. “Outside of these places, the demand for high-end properties is lower and, of course, prices are noticeably lower.” “There’s no ‘right time to buy’ in saint-Tropez,” Eric says. “It’s more a question of what is available on the market and how much a client really wants that perfect property!”  michaelzingraf.com

riviera

lifesTYle

Turn your Mediterranean garden into a seaside dream Words and photos by TOBIAS C. ALBERT WILLE FROM GREEN PARROT GARDENS

Your beach paraDise

wning a beach house is the ultimate dream of living on the Côte d’Azur for many, but even those who have to settle for a sea view alternative a few kilometres inland can still inject the feeling of summer, sun and sand into their backyard with a special beach garden. If you are one of the lucky ones who own a real seaside garden, there are a few things you need to consider. The summer heat and dry soil can put a strain on foreign plants. Winter too can be a challenge as heavy storms and winds carrying salty air can make for difficult growing conditions. It is key to choose the right plants. Regardless of your garden’s location, however, beach gardens are particularly low-maintenance. Many aspects that make a conventional garden hard to cultivate are not a problem. Fruit trees, herbaceous borders and fruit and vegetables are generally not the right options if you’re living close to sea, but they do not make

for a beach garden feel anyway. sand and big chunks of driftwood are excellent materials for your beach paradise and so are large, warm-coloured rocks. Pierre rocaille is reminiscent of coral reefs and the Caribbean. The rustic and open-pore stones are not only an ideal eye catcher, you can also use them to wall off different areas, create water gardens or pile up and plant rocky outcrops, which can serve as your property line and give you a sense of privacy. Wooden planks in the look of a jetty or a beach walkway are perfect to frame your seaside garden pool. slightly skewed, low fences made out of rugged wood set highlights and help secure your property. A bit of spanned sailcloth here and there creates shading zones and is sturdier than traditional parasols. Along with rustic ropes or maybe even a little bar, it may well make you feel like you are on a Tahitian beach or necker Island! now your easy-care, open-air summer paradise is only missing

its plant life. What will be the perfect fit? Well, you have to make a basic style choice: do you want the rather barren CalifornianAustralian-Mediterranean look or the lusher Caribbean-CubanFloridian alternative with giant leaves and gaudy blossoms? For now, we’ll stick with the rather sparser, former option, as it is best compatible with the area’s native plants. Palm trees, of course, are essential or no Robinson Crusoe will want to get lost in your beachside garden. Phoenix canariensis, trachycarpus, washingtonia or maybe even coconut trees - they are all happy along the Côte d’Azur. Or how about chamaerops, sabal or areca? surrounded by some sand and decorative stones, they will all look stunning in your beach garden. By the way, new research shows that your palm trees can benefit from a beauveria bassiana fungus therapy, which serves as a vaccination against palm weevils and moths. Eucalyptus trees seem the natural choice for your garden, but watch out, they drain lots of water from your soil and some kinds litter their surroundings with leaves and bark. They go well with casuarinas or cupressus macrocarpa, should your garden be located on the high coast and you like the Californian

look. Pinus radiate and pinus torrerayana will only add to this ambiance. In terms of bushes, many dodonaea species serve as a great alternative to the more common oleander. Grevillen and callistemons are a good choice - not least for their style and their positive effect on bees. They are an all-year-round stunner and come in different shapes, forms and sizes - shrubby, natural or well-groomed. Hakeas are a good match and they also throw ample shade, mirroring the looming pine trees. Many kinds of melaleuca yield the same effect as callistemons. In particular, the melaleuca nesophia will become the centre of attention, when planted close to your bar. As a shrubby hedge along your property, the juniperus conferta is the perfect choice. It makes a great alternative to rosemary, which is also comfortable in seaside climates. Many other species will feel at home in your beach garden, though it should never be too crowded. It should be light and natural, and void of any symmetry. Large sandy areas are of the essence for shadows to play on them - and to leave enough space for a game of beach volleyball to warm up before a BBQ.

riviera

festival SUMMER 2016

By ELSA CARPENTER

fesTivals

Monte-Carlo Sporting Summer Festival

Jazz À Juan

> 2nd July to 20th August

> 14th July to 24th July

curtains up at the legendary la salle des étoiles Every summer for the past four decades, this iconic venue has welcomed the likes of Frank sinatra, Joe Cocker, Whitney Houston, stevie Wonder, shirley Bassey, Tina Turner, Elton John, Céline dion, Mariah Carey, Lionel Richie, Robert Plant, The Who, Rihanna, Alicia Keys, Pharrell Williams… It is a dizzying list of A-list names that reflects not only the prestigious character of this unique dancehall, but also its universal and catholic approach to musical genres. In 2016, the famous Monte-Carlo sporting summer Festival will once again seek to awe its audiences with ‘exceptional events and dinner shows’ that keep the traditions of the festival while innovating and keeping ‘in tune with the times’. Festival highlights include Rod stewart, who will launch the festival on 2nd July with his biggest hits from the 1970s through to his latest studio album Another Country, followed by American artist Gladys Knight on 8th July. Lana del Rey will perform at the high profile Monaco Red Cross Gala on 23rd July (tuxedo mandatory for male guests). seal, The Corrs and Jamie Cullum will play respectively on 25th, 26th and 27th July. Live performances can be expected from music industry titans Julio Iglesias (in Monaco for his world tour) on 29th July and Tom Jones the following evening. newcomer John newman and Enrique Iglesias are among the final acts on the programme on 4th and 13th August. Correct attire is requested at all events, with a jacket required at dinner shows. Tickets are available online. montecarlolive.com

a revolutionary festival concept: headline artists, fringe festivals and a coastal town alive with music

Nuits du Sud

> 7th July to 23rd July an eclectic and progressive programme of yesterday, today and tomorrow Vence’s nuits du sud is a festival that has truly come of age. now almost 20 years in the making, the nuits du sud continues to charm and inspire spectators of all ages who come together at this fantastic venue to revel and dance in an entire spectrum of culture and genre. Cock Robin and Zaz launch the two-week festival on 7th July followed by Massila sound system and other artists the next night. Imany and Cris Crab round up that weekend’s performances on 9th July. The multi-faceted quintet saodaj’ play on 14th July alongside the poetic Grand Corps Malade and Liverpool’s The Christians brothers. Other unique acts to play at the festival include söndörgo - pronounced Choendoergueu who are a serbian-Croat group playing traditional instruments in their signature lively manner, the Ivory Coast’s Alpha Blondy, French youTube duo AaROn, world famous dJ Bob sinclair (22nd July) and incredible acoustic artist Faada Freddy. Tickets are available online. nuitsdusud.com

The Côte d’Azur is used to VIP guests, but it is another all together to witness them on stage. Jazz À Juan is a unique fixture on the region’s event calendar as year after year, its revolutionary concept continues to attract some of the biggest names - not only in jazz, but in the music industry as a whole to its al fresco stage on the shores of the Mediterranean. This prestigious musical event began its history in the 1960s: there are stories of a love affair between Ray Charles and the festival’s exclusive pine grove arena, and a duet between Ella Fitzgerald and a resident cicada. It is a truly special festival, which is proved time again in its extraordinary line-up and voguish approach to the place of jazz in musical society. Highlights of this year’s event include Monaco’s Compagnie des Carabiniers du Prince, American soul and funk band Earth, Wind & Fire, living legend - and ‘best guitarist of all time’ according to Eric Clapton - Buddy Guy, lord of the saxophone Archie shepp, the beautiful voice of Gregory Porter, stylish and unconventional diana Krall, Grammy Award winner Marcus Miller, and the young Robin McKelle, who has all the power, strength and vocal ability of jazz’s finest mistresses. The Jazz Off fringe festival runs alongside the main stage event and will see 200 musicians in the streets and squares of Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, all offering their unique musical talents to the public. It is always a very joyous occasion! Tickets are available online. jazzajuan.com

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fesTivals

Nice Jazz Festival

> 16th July to 20th July it was nice, not america, that was the birthplace of the world’s first jazz festival

Festival d’art Pyrotechnique

> 14th July to 24th August an explosive celebration of international creativity and flare Each summer, the waters of the Baie de Cannes burn brightly under the Festival of Pyrotechnic Art. Welcoming illumination masters from across the world, the festival unites the finest in firework creativity and flare. On Thursday 14th July, the Mexican team will treat spectators at the free event to a show on the theme ‘Mexico through the ages’. Italy follows on Thursday 21st July with ‘Life is Beautiful’. ‘Conquering the rough northern seas’ will be masterfully put into fire by Finland on Friday 29th July with France’s équipe organising ‘Abracadabra, the magic’ on sunday 7th August. The final two displays will take place on Monday 15th August with a symphonic showing by Australia and the Czech Republic’s ‘straight to the heart’ on Wednesday 24th August. festival-pyrotechniquecannes.com

since 1948, nice has offered a stage to some of the world’s greatest jazz acts and musicians. It is almost 70 years since jazz titans such as Louis Armstrong and django Reinhardt helped launch what has become an institution for the jazz genre, but the mission and message of the festival remains much the same: to celebrate jazz music of ‘yesterday, today and tomorrow’, and to instil a love for the art in the heart’s of a new generation. This year, nice’s ethereal open air venues of Théâtre de Verdure and Place Masséna will welcome a medley of jazz stars from across the ages. HaitianAmerican Leyla McCalla will open the festival who precedes The James Hunter six and other acts on the saturday night. sunday will see exemplary performances by artists such as the emotive London Community Gospel Choir, contemporary Tiggs da Author and George Clinton - who holds the joint-title with James Brown as being the most sampled vocalist worldwide. The following night will see local niçois quartet Hyphen Hyphen play to a home crowd as well as saxophonist Géraldine Laurent. Visitors may be surprised to learn that the voice of Led Zeppelin, Robert Plant, will be performing at this traditionally jazz-themed festival on the Monday night too alongside his blues-gospel-Africans inspired group, the sensational space shifters. Tuesday’s headline acts are the indomitable Massive Attack and the much celebrated scottish group The Cinematic Orchestra. The festival’s closing night explores all facets of the genre with performances by quirky group deluxe, chic duo Brigitte, and jazz giant and human rights’ activist Abdullah Ibrahim AKA dollar Brand. Tickets are available online. nicejazzfestival.fr

L’Été Danse

> 21st July to 30th July Three innovative performances by les ballets de monte-carlo For the 2016 edition of the L’été danse programme, the ever theatrical and daring JeanChristophe Maillot, Choreographer director of Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo, decided to release his supple grip on the reins of his troupe and invite two young artists to try their hand at directing. At 8pm for four nights from 21st to 24th July, Belgian dancer Jeroen Verbruggen and Russian choreographer Vladimir Varnava will explore their creative and directive abilities as they host L’Enfant et les sortilèges and Le Baiser de la Fée respectively. Verbruggen will immerse his former classmates and his audience in an ‘offbeat wonderland’ while Varnava’s ‘unique choreographic vision will be embodied by the Ballets de MonteCarlo, showcasing the young artist as a rising star in the

world of dance’. Later in July, Maillot will reprise his role at the head of his dancers for a contemporary take on Roméo et Juliette. He assertively assumes his spectators are familiar with shakespeare’s most well-known tale and, ‘rather than retrace the rift between the Capulets and Montagues to its tragic denouement, [he] rewrites the play from an original perspective, plunging us into the depths of Friar Laurence's soul, a man whose good intentions ultimately provoke the demise of the two lovers’. There will be three performances of the ballet from 28th to 30th July, all at 8pm. Tickets are available online, at the Grimaldi Forum and at the Atrium of the Monte-Carlo Casino. balletsdemontecarlo.com

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festival SUMMER 2016

fesTivals

Les Nuits Guitares

Festival de Musique de Menton

> 21st July to 23rd July

> 29th July to 14th August

There aren’t many instruments that evoke as much raw energy and power as the guitar The serenity of the Jardin de l’Olivaie is about to get torn apart as Les nuits Guitares descend on sleepy Beaulieusur-Mer. The annual festival is an eclectic tribute to the endless appeal of the guitar and will this year see a healthy mix of gypsy-rock, electronic blues and poetic pop. The merry band of gypsy rock artists of Emir Kusturica and the no smoking Orchestra will launch the three-day event followed by Christophe the next night. With a career some five decades in the making, Christophe has never stopped evolving and innovating with his style, which is somewhere between blues, electro-rock and a light synth. Thomas dutronc will close the 2016 edition with work from his hugely successful third album éternels jusqu’à demain which was produced by John Kelly of Paul McCartney and Kate Bush fame. Tickets are available online and at the tourism office. lesnuitsguitares.com

classical music fans will reveal in this authentic display of international talent

Festival de Musique de Chambre de Saint-Paul-de-vence

> 22nd July to 31st July in a place as majestic as the medieval saint-paulde-vence, what could be more magical than the dramatic sounds of classic chamber music? since its inception in 2011, this festival has been as much as about sharing a passion for chamber music as it has been about discovering the different forms this ancient musical art can take. From solo recitals to duos, trios, quartets and quintets, over six magical nights of music, visitors will discover and rediscover the depths of classic chamber music. The piano is at the heart of this year’s programme and it occupies a dominating position in the line-up - centre stage in five out of six of the concerts. not to be missed is the event on 26th July, which will see Quebec pianists Hélène Mercier and Louis Lortie play the grand instrument side-by-side in the Place de la Courtine. Luxembourgian Francesco Tristano too will entrance spectators with his modern take on chamber music, full of drama and creativity, at the Fondation Maeght. All events will take place in the open air and setting sun, making the most of saint-Paulde-Vence’s impressive panoramic location on a hilltop crest above the Côte d’Azur. Tickets are available online and at the village’s tourism office. festivalsaintpauldevence.com

Known as the ‘pearl’ of France, Menton is the stunning setting of one of the Côte d’Azur’s greatest classical music festivals. From fabulous singers to violinists, pianists, orchestral performances, male choirs and flute recitals, this extensive programme has something to appease and delight every classical music fan. The festival takes place in a number of Menton’s public and private spaces such as Esplanade Francis-Palmero, Musée Jean Cocteau and the Parvis de la Basilique saintMichel Archange. Tickets are available online. festival-musique-menton.fr

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Concours international de Feux d’artiﬁce Pyromélodique

> 25th July to 13th August a fiery clash of music and light First introduced into the Principality of Monaco back in 1966, this free, international competition blends pyrotechnical talent with the ability to pair it with rhythm, melody and song. A powerful sound system is installed throughout the entire Port Hercule - extremely powerful as Riviera Insider knows well allowing spectators to reveal in the event wherever they are in the principality. There’s a beautiful spot on the cliffs about Monaco that is a wonderful place to take in the show if you don’t like crowds. On 25th July, Lithuania will entice the crowds with their colourful display followed by Portugal’s troupe on 30th July both at 10pm. Australia will kick start the fireworks activities of August on 6th and the united states will close the vibrant event on 13th August - both at 9.30pm. monaco-feuxdartifice.mc

Les Plages Électroniques

> 4th August to 6th August from the sands of the beach to the luxury of the balcony Celebrating modern sounds is music festival Les Plages électroniques. starting in the late afternoon from Thursday to saturday, the event will welcome as many as 14 different acts - each with their own unique electronic style on the beaches of Cannes and at the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès such as Birdy nam nam, Apollonia, systmB, de La swing, Andres Campo, Bella sarris, stereoclip and n’TO. Tickets are available online. plages-electroniques.com

Festival Pantiero

> 19th August to 20th August a delicate balance between headline artists and newcomers This is a festival that prides itself on being a pioneering place to spot and encourage new talent. “It’s an audacious and artistic set combining the chemistry between [newly] discovered and established artists from the international electronic and today’s music,” says artistic

director Jean-Marie sevain, who is from Cannes himself and has worked in the music industry for much of his career. This year’s event takes place over two nights: on the Friday, electroop group Grand Blanc, alternative rock songstress Jessica93 and electro-pop La Femme will play on the terrace of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. The following evening, electro débruit, electro group Africaine 808 and deep house duo st Germain complete the festival line-up. Tickets are available online and at the establishment’s La Croisette box office. festivalpantiero.com

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not your typical monaco residents

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Duane Hanson questions ‘Who is reality?’ By SARAH HYDE

hese sculptures define realism. When I told a friend I was writing about Hanson’s work her response was “Oh him, I tried to talk to one of those in Glasgow.” The curator of the show, Cristiano Raimondi, admitted that although now he is now used to the sculptures, unpacking the crates was a very strange experience. The verisimilitude is remarkable. Painstakingly produced, the sculptures have been styled, made up and positioned to gain exactly the effect that the artist wanted: there is something deeply uncanny about your first interaction with a Hanson figure. They are funny and so real that it takes a few moments to realise that the figures are not, in fact, very still and unblinking humans. Hanson was born in 1925 in Alexandria, Minnesota, and died in 1996 in Florida. His work in resin and fibre glass started in 1966 after which he lived in Manhattan briefly, at the insistence of his gallerist, in 1969. during this time, his practice evolved into what we now immediately recognise as Hanson works. Many of his seminal works, including supermarket shopper, were created during this time. However, he preferred Florida and, after his return in 1973, he would remain there for the rest of his life. In the artist’s own words, his purpose was ‘to communicate my ideas about the human condition at this point in time. Those of mostly ordinary people of the lower-class, working type who face the daily hardships life creates: a sense of alienation, forlornness, fatigue and frustration, which all of us have faced from time to time’. As we enter the exhibition, the artist discreetly greets us in self Portrait, seated at a table with one of his subjects drinking a Coca Cola. Hanson has insinuated himself into the installation with almost Hitchcockian aplomb. With a discreet nod of recognition, he invites us to join him and see the world through his eyes. A cowboy slouches against the wall gazing into the

EXHIBITION AVAILABLE until 28th august at villa Paloma 58 Boulevard du Jardin exotique 98000 Monaco +377 98 98 48 60 Open every day 11am – 7pm Tickets are 6 euros

Top left photo QUEENIE II, 1988 © The Estate of Duane Hansen, photography by Robert McKeever Bottom left photo THE HOUSEWIFE, 1970 © Astrup Fearnley Collection, Oslo, photography NMNM/François Fernandez Bottom right photo FLEA MARKET LADY, 1984 © Collection Gilbert Costes, photography Luke Hayes Top right photo SELF PORTRAIT WITH MODEL, 1979 © The Estate of Duane Hanson, photography NMNM/François Fernandez

middle distance, he must have been as out of place in Florida in 1998 as he is in Monaco today. An abandoned baby quickens your heart beat until you remind yourself, it’s only a sculpture. All of the pieces provoke a response and, once you relax and realise that these are sculptures, not people, it is impossible not to commit that cardinal sin. The one that goes against everything we have been taught about staring as we brazenly scrutinise the figures. The perfection and curiosity of Hanson’s work demands that we do. The subjects cannot move or change their expression, they are frozen in a moment, exactly as the artist conceived them. Hanson’s choices were intuitive, but the effect is powerful. When they were conceived as contemporary pieces, they made commentary on society. now that society has changed, they remain exactly as they are forever, outside of their own time. In the beautiful, sanitised white space of the gallery, their ordinariness is elevated to super ordinary, confronting the elegant viewer with their disappointment, bruises and sense of detachment. Hanson appears to be the master of the middle distance. The flea market lady selling books and pictures half price is a reminder that things are not exactly as they seem. This work was sold by Galerie Perratin to Gilbert Costes for his private collection. The estate of duane Hanson is now represented solely by Gagosian, which gives some indication of the perceived value of these everyday people. As Queenie saluts your departure and brushes you down the steps into the sunny Monegasque street, briefly, the world seems a different place and for a moment the invisible people are more apparent than ever. 

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Thrills for The whole familY Arlette Gruss Circus rolls into town he world-renowned Arlette Gruss Circus is taking it back to basics for 2016, placing the circus’ animals in the centre stage with jaw-dropping performances featuring magnificent elephants, lions and tigers, a troupe of spectacular horses and zebras, sea loins and even an albino kangaroo! Over the next two months, the

big top circus, complete with a live band at each show, will be touring the south of France: saint Tropez, Cabris, Hyères, Valbonne and Fréjus. At the helm of this family-run circus - now a rarity in France - is Gilbert Gruss who continues the impressive work of his mother and the founder of this massively popular show, Arlette Gruss. Gilbert’s sole goal is to surprise and

Photo PERFORMERS AT THE ARLETTE GRUSS CIRCUS HAVE AN EXCITING RANGE OF INTERNATIONAL BACKGROUNDS AND EXPERTISE

exhibiTion spoTlighT  PRInCEss GRACE AT GALERIE FERRERO ollowing the hugely successful Jackie Kennedy exhibition in spring earlier this year, the Galerie Ferrero in nice is placing a second influential woman once again in the spotlight and this time, it is even more personal. The lady of honour is Grace Kelly, the Hollywood actress of the 1950s who became the Princess of Monaco.

The photographic exhibition retraces the early years of Grace’s role as princess, from her first official meeting with Prince Rainier in 1955 through to 1969. 5th July - 31st August Entrance is 5 euros Monday to Thursday from 2pm to 7pm Friday to Saturday from 10am to 12pm and 2pm and 7pm Galerie Ferrero galerieferrero.com 

ignite a raw excitement in the hearts of spectators of all ages with the circus’ innovative mix of contemporary performances (prepare yourselves for the spinetingling acrobatics and a daredevil motorbike demonstration) and more traditional acts derived from over two centuries of expertise! More than 130 people from 13 countries around the world make

up the Arlette Gruss train and that’s not even counting the 60 well-cared for and respected animals, without whom ‘there would be no circus’, according to Gilbert. Entrance tickets start at 14 euros for children (tickets to the golden seating area are 33 euros for both adults and children) while adult tickets begin at 17 euros.  cirque-gruss.com

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arT from all The ages Indulge your creative passions

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The organisT of monaco Olivier Vernet: artistic director of the Festival International d’Orgue de Monaco he dramatic and intricate sounds of the organ transcend the ages and indeed cultures, spanning more than two millennia of musical arts. Today, the organ continues to occupy an important place on the cultural stage of Monaco and Riviera Insider caught up with the prinicipality’s titular organist of the cathedral and artistic director of the Festival International d’Orgue de Monaco, Olivier Vernet, to find out what the ever eager public can discover at arguably one of the region’s most theatrical events. “This year, the Festival International d’Orgue de Monaco pays homage to René saorgin who was one of the leading French organ players in the postwar period and also the titular organist of the Cathedral of Monaco between 1984 and 2005,” says Olivier, now the holder of this prestigious title. “saorgin had a long career as a musical studies professor at the Conservatoire de nice, teaching students from France and abroad, many of which became firm friends with this great man. The festival will feature many of the emblematic musical works of saorgin reinterpreted by former students, friends and admirers.” Every sunday from 5pm between 26th June and 21st August, artists from across Europe will perform a spectacular range of pieces on the organ of the cathedral, itself a magnificent structure that will awe spectators before they have even heard the first note. “All those performing are incredible artists,” says Olivier. “It would be almost impossible for me to single out just one to recommend, but, in particular, I continue to be impressed by the originality of Hans-Ola Ericsson (performing on the final night of the festival - 21st August) who will consecrate her entire performance to the works of female composers - it will certainly be an momentous part

rt lovers, rejoice! In amongst the countless cultural events and exhibitions of the summer are also three exceptional art fairs, which bring together the classic and the contemporary, and feature everything from period furniture to Renaissance masterpieces, silverware, jewellery, art deco creations, first edition books, ceramics, sculptural art, haute couture and photography. From 1st to 7th July, the peninsular of saint Jean Cap Ferrat will be transformed into a veritable treasure trove of art with an eclectic mix of pieces from private collections and exhibitors from across France. The salon des Antiquaires et d’Art Contemporain unites artwork in all its forms from antiquity through to the modern day to create an unusual and exciting ‘voyage through the ages’. With such a universal range of pieces - think Asiatic ceramics, Middle Eastern woven carpets and European Renaissance art and wide appeal of the fair, the salon des Antiquaires et d’Art Contemporain has arranged for a qualified art expert to be on hand throughout the event who can ‘authenticate and guarantee the quality of works on sale’. Open from 10am until 8pm with free entry every day, the organisers of the salon des Antiquaires et d’Art Contemporain are capitalising on the natural beauty of the presqu’île and its intimate atmosphere, placing installations and sections of the salon in not only the town centre, but also in various locations along the port such as the Terrasses de la Mer. A similar range of artistic pieces will also be on display from 23rd to 31st July and also 19th to 28th August in the Vieux Port of Cannes. These successful, successive events are back by popular public demand and are open each day from 10am to 8pm with special late opening hours until 10pm on saturdays. Entrance to The salon des Antiquaires et d’Art Contemporain de Cannes costs six euros (free for those under 14 years of age). 

of the festival. There will also be a concert by Englishman Wayne Marshall (3rd July), a well-known musical personality in the principality thanks to his work with the Philharmonic Orchestra of Monaco. Eric Lebrun and Vincent Warnier (24th July) present a collection of pieces by the late Maurice duruflé - this year is the 30th anniversary of the composer’s death.” now in its 11th year, the International Organ Festival of Monaco continues to grow, both musically and in attendance. “Our loyal audience comes from across the region,” says Olivier, “and the numbers remain very high, which encourages us to improve and develop with every edition. showing the artists on the big screen has been a huge success and a strong point of our festival - the public are always very impressed and astonished to discover how the organ is played by our artists, using both their hands and feet across the vast console of four keyboards.” “Among my principal roles on Monaco’s cultural scene are also the Ancient Music Concerts - the Concerts de Musique Ancienne which are organised annually by the direction des Affaires Culturelles,” says Olivier. “Two concerts centred around the celebration of the Immaculate Conception will be taking place on 6th and 9th december at the Chapelle de la Visitation. As always, the public are very welcome to join us in this astounding acoustical space.”

Top photo MONACO’S TITULAR ORGANIST OLIVIER VERNET Bottom photo THE MAGNIFICENT INSTRUMENT

A Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, Olivier is an extremely accomplished organist and musician in his own right in Monaco, in France and beyond. As well as teaching at the Académie de Musique Prince Rainier III, Olivier has also assumed the responsibilities of the man he honours at this summer’s organ festival through his position as titular organist of the Monaco cathedral. His name and his talents are now deeply intwined with the principality - Olivier even performed at Prince Albert II’s 2011 wedding to Princess Charlene. As such, he is a leading name in the cultural offerings of the nation and is an avid supporter of its international eminence. “The cultural environment of the principality is both generous and of the highest level with the Opera, the theatre, its Philharmonic Orchestra, the ballet, Printemps des Arts, countless conferences and roundtables…” he says. “Whether you are a lover of music or art, Monaco has something to satisfy every cultural desire. I’m without doubt that the principality’s neighbours are jealous of the extraordinary range of shows and events that Monaco offers!” festivalorguemonaco.com

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France Events until 31st August nice Princess Grace exhibition Galerie Ferrero puts the beautiful American actress and later Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, in the spotlight in a stunning exhibition featuring original, vintage photographs. Galerie Ferrero. Open Monday to Thursday from 2pm until 7pm and on Friday and saturday from 10am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm. Tickets are 5 euros. galerieferrero.com until 4th september monaco Francis Bacon exhibition Explore the works of this infamous artist in a unique exhibition curated by Martin Harrison. At the Grimaldi Forum. Open daily from 10am to 8pm. Tickets can be brought online for 5 euros. grimaldiforum.com until 25th september nice Jacques Henri Lartigue exhibition ‘un Monde Flottant’ at the Théâtre de la Photographie et de l’Image. nice.fr until 30th september monaco Taba Naba exhibition A three-part artistic expression of the themes oceans and waters, which features work from dozens of Australian Aboriginals and Oceanic peoples. At Musée Océanographique. Open from 9.30am to 8pm (in July and August). Tickets from 14 euros. oceano.mc until 2nd October cagnes-sur-mer New Zealand jewellery exhibition discover the masterful jewellery creations of Aotearoa - new Zealand by eight artists who feature in their work the natural aspects of the country and its Maori heritage. At the Espace solidor. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 2nd to 6pm. Free. until 30th October vallauris Contemporary and ceramic art Concours 2016 and Kim Joon at the Musée Magnelli, south Korea at the salle Eden, Made in netherlands at the Maison des Quartiers, Refugium by

Christin Johansoon at the salle Arias, Objets? … Objections! at the sales Jules Agard, and Bertozzi & Casoni at the Espace Grandjean. Tickets are 5 euros. vallauris-golfe-juan.fr

from the Conservatoire on Plage de Gigaro. starts at 4pm. Reservations are essential. Free. lacroixvalmertourisme@ gmail.com

until 31st October roQuebrune-cap-marTin Le Corbusier exhibition ‘Le Corbusier, mes années sauvages sur la Bassin 1926 - 1936’, an artistic exhibition, inaugurates the hangar at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. contact@capmoderne.com

14th - 24th July Juan-les-pins Jazz À Juan festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. jazzajuan.com

2nd July - 20th August monaco Monte Carlo Sporting Summer Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. montecarlolive.com 5th July porQuerolles Underwater expedition An opportunity to get below the protected waves of Porquerolles and explore the island’s biodiversity and marine habitats. starts at 10am. Reservations are essential and participants are advised to bring their own flippers, masks and snorkels. Free. portcrosparcnational.fr 5th July cannes Club Vivanova Join Club Vivanova on Cannes’ Martinez Z Plage for the White Party. starts at 7pm. Tickets are 50 euros. clubvivanova.com 7th July monaco Club Vivanova Join Club Vivanova for the daval International Business Lunch. At the Fairmont Monte Carlo. Tickets are 50 euros. clubvivanova.com 7th - 23rd July vence Nuits du Sud festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. nuitsdusud.com 10th July cannes Amis de l’Orgue A concert with Belgian Mithra Van Eenhooge at the Eglise notre-dame de Bon Voyage. starts at 6pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 12th July cap larDier Guided coastal walk Take a guided tour of the three kilometre long coast of Cap Lardier

14th July - 24th August cannes Firework festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. festival-pyrotechniquecannes.com 15th July monaco Meeting d'Athlétisme Herculis An international athletics meet of 17 events in the heart of Monaco at the stade Louis II. starts at 7pm. Tickets from 10 euros. herculis.com 16th - 20th July nice Nice Jazz festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. nicejazzfestival.fr 17th July cannes Amis de l’Orgue A concert with Olivier salandini at the Eglise notre-dame de Bon Voyage. starts at 6pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 19th July porQuerolles Underwater expedition An opportunity to get below the protected waves of Porquerolles and explore the island’s wonderful biodiversity and marine habitats. starts at 10am. Reservations are essential and participants are advised to bring their own flippers, masks and snorkels. Free. portcrosparcnational.fr 19th July - 14th August menTon Classical music festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. festival-musique-menton.com nICE 20th July Worcester College Chapel Choir The choir performs ‘A journey through English and Italian choral music’ with pieces from Tallis, Byrd, Batten,

Palestrina and Pitoni. Conductor: Thomas Allery. Eglise Holy Trinity. starts at 8.30pm. 20th - 23rd July casTellar Festival International de Mandoline The Mandoline de Castellar festival in the hinterlands of Menton celebrates the instrument of the mandoline, a local and culture icon of the area. Taking place at the Place de la Mairie and Eglise saint-Pierre. festivalmandoline.fr 20th - 24th July monaco European Art Fair View and purchase pieces of fine art, antiques and jewellery at the sixth edition of the Monaco European Air Fair (formerly Point Art Monaco. At the Grimaldi Forum. Every day from 3pm to 9am (extended viewings on 21st July until 10pm). dual tickets for the fair and Francis Bacon exhibition are 16 euros. eafmonaco.com 21st - 23rd July beaulieu-sur-mer Les Nuits Guitares Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. lesnuitsguitares.com 21st - 24th July monaco Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo Two creative performances each night at the salle Garnier of the Opéra de Monte-Carlo: L’Enfant et les sortilèges by Jeroen Verbruggen and Le Baiser de la Fée by Vladimir Varnava. starts at 8pm. Tickets start at 21 euros. balletsdemontecarlo.com 22nd - 31st July sainT-paul-De-vence Chamber musc festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. festivalsaintpauldevence.com 23rd - 25th July nice Pétanque competition Join the 3,000 expected ‘boulistes’ for a game of the famous French favourite pastime. On the Promenade des Anglais. europetanquedepartement06.fr 24th July sainT Tropez Club Vivanova Join Club Vivanova at nikki Beach for an amazing sunday lunch dining experience. Tickets are 150 euros. clubvivanova.com

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24th July cannes Amis de l’Orgue A concert with Karol Mossakowski at the Eglise notre-dame de Bon Voyage. starts at 6pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 25th July - 13th August monaco Firework festival Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. monaco-feuxdartifice.mc 26th July cap larDier Guided coastal walk Take a guided tour of the three kilometre long coast of Cap Lardier from the Conservatoire on Plage de Gigaro. starts at 4pm. Reservations are essential. Free. lacroixvalmertourisme@gmail.com 26th July porQuerolles Nature encounter Learn more about Porquerolles’ furry residents - the bats - with a nighttime meeting on the island. At the Maison de Parc de Porquerolles. starts at 9.30pm. Reservations are encouraged. Free. maisonparcprl.pnpc@portcrosparcnational.fr 28th - 30th July monaco Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo Jean-Christophe Maillot invites his audience to enjoy a fresh-faced version of Roméo et Juliette at the salle Garnier of the Opéra de Monte-Carlo. starts at 8pm. Tickets start at 21 euros. balletsdemontecarlo.com 31st cannes Amis de l’Orgue A concert with Jean-Baptiste Robin at the Eglise notre-dame de Bon Voyage. starts at 6pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 2nd August la croix-valmer Guided coastal walk Take a guided tour of Cap Lardier from the Conservatoire on Plage de Gigaro. starts at 4pm. Reservations are essential. Free. lacroixvalmertourisme@gmail.c om 2nd August cannes Club Vivanova Join Club Vivanova on Cannes’ Martinez Z Plage for the rosé party. starts at 7pm. Tickets are 50 euros. clubvivanova.com

4th - 6th August cannes Les Plages Électroniques Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. plages-electroniques.com

of the island’s coastline. starts at 10am. Reservations are encouraged and participants should bring good walking shoes and plenty of water. Free. parcnational.fr

4th - 7th August nice international Tango festival Vibrant, energetic and emotive - head to this international tango festival for an exciting display for tango talent. Events will be held across the city. Tickets are available online. verynicetangofestival.com

23rd - 27th August cannes Festival de l’Art Russe For the 19th edition of the Russian Art Festival, an eclectic and veritable panorama of Russian art and artistic expression is being displayed. At the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. Tickets from 12 euros. palaisdesfestivals.com

5th - 7th August grasse Jasmine festival A celebration of the jasmin flower, which is still cultivated in Grasse. Taking place on the Cours Honoré Cresp and throughout the old town. ville-grasse.fr 6th August nice Celtic Legends Traditional Celtic and Irish music, dancing and songs. At the Théâtre de Verdure. starts at 9pm. tdv-nice.org 11th - 14th August cannes Jazz à Domergue swing music takes altitude to celebrate this wonderful genre at the Villa domergue as legendary musicians and young prodigies of improvisation demonstrate that jazz, constantly inspired by both tradition and modernity remains a musical art more alive than ever. At the Villa domergue. Tickets from 12 euros. palaisdesfestivals.com 16th August cap larDier Guided coastal walk Take a guided tour of the three kilometre long coast of Cap Lardier from the Conservatoire on Plage de Gigaro. starts at 4pm. Reservations are essential. Free. lacroixvalmertourisme@ gmail.com

2nd - 4th september nice Salon Bionazur The 18th edition of the Côte d’Azur’s leading organic and wellbeing festival will take place on the Cours saleya. From the heart of the old town, Bionazur welcomes a number of handpicked exhibitors to present a large range of products and services specific to the industry. On the Cours saleya. From 10am to 8pm. bionazur.com 2nd - 4th september nice Ultra-Trail mega race dare you tempt the massive 145km walk from nice to saint-MartinVésubie? Or could you do it in a relay or partner effort? There are a number of different events at the ultra-Trial competition - just remember a good pair of walking boots! Various ticket and entry prices. ultratrail06.com 6th september cannes Club Vivanova Join Club Vivanova on Cannes’ Martinez Z Plage for the Red Party. starts at 7pm. Tickets are 50 euros. clubvivanova.com

19th - 20th August cannes Festival Pantiero Read about the Côte d’Azur’s summer and music festivals on pages 60 - 63. festivalpantiero.com

6th - 11th september cannes Yachting festival True to its reputation as a leading yachting festival, where visitors can discover the latest yachts from the world’s greatest shipyards and builders, the Cannes yachting Festival will once again host many international exhibitors. Taking place at the Port de Cannes. cannesyachtingfestival.com

23rd August porQuerolles Nature encounter Learn more about Porquerolles’ extensive plantlike with a guided tour

15th - 18th september monaco Monte-Carlo Polo Cup This edition of the Monte-Carlo Polo Cup offers its guests four wonderful

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days of competitive spring excellence, luxury and elegance in the spirit of Monaco’s traditional sporting and society events. Taking place at the domaine de VireVent. montecarlopoloclub.mc 18th - 25th september cannes Régates Royales Trophée Panerai An autumn highlight for Cannes, the Régates Royales Trophée Panerai bring together the finest classical and traditional yachts for a splendid display in the Bay of Cannes. Taking place off Cannes. regatesroyales.com 28th september - 1st October monaco 26th Monaco Yacht Show Widely recognised as the world’s greatest yachting festivals, the Monaco yacht show welcomes the big players of luxury yachting as well as a hundred super and mega yachts to Port Hercule. monacoyachtshow.com

Italy Events 19th July monTegrazie Worcester College Chapel Choir ‘A journey through English and Italian choral music’ with pieces from Tallis, Byrd, Batten, Palestrina and Pitoni. Conductor: Thomas Allery. santuario n.s. delle Grazie. starts at 9pm. 21st July borDighera Worcester College Chapel Choir The choir performs ‘A journey through English and Italian choral music’ with pieces from Tallis, Byrd, Batten, Palestrina and Pitoni. Conductor: Thomas Allery. Giardini Löwe. starts at 9pm. until 31st July genoa Body Worlds exhibition discover the secrets of the human body in this interesting, artistic exhibition by Gunter von Hagens. At Porto Antico, Magazzini del Cotone. 30th July - 8th August venTimiglia Public festival Medieval festival with markets, competitions, games and parades. In the old town and during the evenings. enteagostomedievale.it,

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look To The horizon France’s oldest three-mast barque to tour the French Riviera oday the sight of the gleaming white hulls of the über rich’s super yachts are the norm, but in a time not too far back in the history books, our stretch of the Mediterranean would have looked much different. Along with the hundreds of traditional fishing boats bobbing off the coastline, if you’d looked out to the horizon 100 years ago, there’s a strong chance you would have seen one of France’s great sailing ships or imperial cargo vessels. This summer will see the triumphant return to Mediterranean waters of France’s only surviving great sailboat of the 19th century – Belem. Built in nantes more than a century ago in 1896, the Belem is France’s oldest three-mast sailing vessel and was classified as a historic monument in 1984. In its heyday, Belem was a busy cargo ship that transported the goods of the new World - sugar from the West Indies and cocoa and coffee from Brazil and French Guiana - to the Old. It’s intriguing history recounts of how, in a story that sounds more sailor’s tale than reality, the Belem escaped the catastrophic eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902, barely five years after its first launch. On the fateful day, the French-owned island of Martinique was ringed by vessels of all sizes, leaving nowhere for the Belem to drop anchor. Frustrated by this and tired, no doubt, from the crew’s long voyage, Captain Julien Chauvelon was forced to anchor further down the coast. Thankfully, it was away from the horrific pyroclastic flows that killed an estimated 30,000 people. This explosion would later been recognised as the worst volcanic disaster of the 20th century.

70 years of international ﬂights at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport

Ajaccio Marseille En route vers le château d’If 29th - 31st August 550 euros

Marseille Saint Tropez Les calanques de Cassis 5th - 8th September 710 euros

Saint Tropez Nice Cap au large 12th - 16th September 880 euros

Nice Monaco Le retour du yacht 19th - 22nd September 710 euros

Monaco Sète Les splendeurs de la Côte d’Azur 26th - 29th September 710 euros

“The Belem is a magnificent sail ship,” says today’s Captain Aymeric Gibet. “It is at the spearhead of the historical preservation and conversation work. It has been a witness to so many eras and I often find myself sitting back and wondering about the many different people who have sailed her. Who were they? How did they live? The first time I stepped aboard was very emotional for me.” All throughout 2016, the ship and its 16-man crew will be celebrating its 120th birthday with a tour of France’s Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, and additional stop-offs on the Iberian peninsula. The public too is being welcomed aboard the 58 metre vessel for a unique sailing experience at the helm of France’s final 19th century treasure. Belem will reach the French Riviera in last August in a voyage from Corsica to Marseille. From there, the ship will be hoping for westerly winds to carry the crew and its visitors to saint Tropez, nice and finally Monaco. Each trip lasts between three and five days with full bed and board included, and you’ll be in the safe hands of Captain Aymeric Gibet and his sailors so no prior experience at sea is necessary. Bookings can be made online. fondationbelem.com 

inTernaTional connecTions n 1946, a dC-3 airplane fleet headed down the stockholm runway bound for an exciting new destination: nice. Former night mail pilot turned captain, Georg Lindow, was behind the controls of the airplane ‘Tranan’ for the historic flight, which would become the first international connection between the French Riviera’s new airport in nice and the rest of the world. The Côte d’Azur’s popularity with the upper echelons of the swedish classes grew significantly in

the 19th century, but until the advent of the ABA flight in spring 1946, many travelled the long distance between their northern scandinavian homes and the sunny Mediterranean coast by train. now part of the scandinavian Airlines systems (sAs) group, ABA’s route between the swedish capital and that of the French Riviera would have been revolutionary. Today, there three daily connections between nice, stockholm and Gothenburg. some 15,000 swedes have made the south of France their home and half a million swedish tourists visit the region every year. sas.se

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monaco bans singleuse plasTic bags

enD To colD calling Bloctel legally requires call centres to stop with the hassle

But it will be an up-hill ﬁght to achievement zero usage by 2017 rince Albert II has made the strong and commendable decision to ban the distribution of single-use plastic bags at points of sale in the Principality of Monaco in an effort to combat the alarming growth of plastic pollution in the Mediterranean, albeit under several conditions. From June 2016, Monaco-based shopkeepers are unable to distribute plastic bags fabricated using fossil fuels, containing oxofragmentable materials, with a thickness less than 50 microns or with a volume of less than 25 litres. If a bag fits into any of these categories, it cannot be used. However, plastic bags with a thickness of more than 50 microns, with a volume over 25 litres or made of biodegradable materials are still accepted. It is hoped that the ban will encourage residents and tourists to think again about the impact they and their habits have on the environment. The rules will be stepped up in January 2017 to include all singleuse bags, including those currently available for packing fruit and vegetables. In 2020, all throwaway, plastic utensils will be banned. The Monegasque government is expected to launch its Bag for Life (un sac pour la vie) campaign in the coming weeks, which will see a reusable, organic cotton bag delivered to each home in the principality.

Conﬂicting statistics & opinions

nsurance, hoovers, holidays, internet… And that’s just since the start of this year! Cold calls can be both annoying and timeconsuming, but thanks to government service Bloctel, there’s no need to put up with them any longer. French residents can sign up to the scheme for free online and bar commercial calls to mobile phones and landlines for up to three years

(after which you must renew your contract). All calls of a sales nature will stop within a month of registration following a new French law that requires call centres to update their contact directories at the end of each month and remove any people and numbers that are signed up with Bloctel. If you also receive spam sMs, you can text 33700 to put a halt to nuisance messages. bloctel.gouv.fr 

95% of Monegasque shopkeepers say that protecting the environment is important to them

71% hand out single-use carrier bags

96% of these bags are free

1.1 million single-use bags a year are given out by four businesses alone in the principality

73% of shopkeepers in Monaco believe too many throwaway plastic bags are being used From 2017, all single-use plastic bags will be banned at the point-of-sale

2020 All throw-away plastic items will be banned by 2020

no if’s or buTT’s Monaco stubs out cigarette pollution with portal ashtrays he Monaco Plage Propre incentive has returned for the seventh year to the principality’s Larvotto beach with the distribution of free portal ashtrays that hope to dissuade smokers from stubbing out their cigarettes in the sand. Every weekend until september and every day during the peak months of July and August, the coneshaped ashtrays will be freely

available from standards located at the various entrance points of Larvotto beach. In 2015, as many as 8,400 of the ashtrays were picked up by environmentallyconscious smokers and this summer, the townhall, tourism board and company responsible for the cleanliness of Monaco, hope to encourage more people to act sensibly and use the containers rather than the sands. 

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welcome To The new Terminal 1 Nice airport updates with sophisticated shopping and dining fter two long years of renovations and refurbishments that hope to bring the transport hub into line with other leading European airports, Terminal 1 of nice Côte d’Azur Aéroport has finally unveiled its new-look commercial centre. While both terminals at the international transport link have received structural and market-place improvements, Terminal 1 is virtually unrecognisable from its former shell following a complete image overhaul. The increase in retail outlets is perhaps the most noticeable change to the floor, which has been considerably expanded during the works to facilitate larger waiting areas for passengers. The new duty-free shop has been designed to be a multi-sensory experience with a ‘garden’ from perfume creator Fragonard, spa products by Eric Zemmour, and a veritable lightshow featuring the Champagne Chandelier collection. Luxury retail shopping has also been bolstered by the presence of a beautiful Hèrmes boutique, a new Versace outlet – the only shop by the brand in the south of France – and glassware giant Baccarat. Other brands of exception include Hour Passion with its extensive range of

jewellery and horology, apparel by Max Mara and accessories by Longchamp. The Fashion Palace, an almost department store-like space features the likes of Zadig & Voltaire, Boss, Pinko, Vilebrequin and Banana Moon. Adding ‘a little touch of the Côte d’Azur’ are saveurs de Provence and L’Occitane. Passengers also now have a vast selection of dining options from well-known brands such as starbucks, Pret à Manger, Joe & The Juice as well as more local alternatives like nice’s Chez Pipo and saint Tropez’s La Tarte Tropezienne. Travellers can enjoy Michelinstarred, French chef Thierry Marx’s cuisine at La Plage – a stunning and spacious restaurant that seems more al fresco than airport chic – and Pan Garni. The VIP lounges have been completely redesigned in both terminals: in Terminal 1, a velvety library-style space awaits and in Terminal 2, the luxe Cap Ferrat lounge features all of the finer things in Riviera life (due to open next year). “We are very proud of the work completed over the last two years,” said President of the Aéroports de la Côte d’Azur group dominique Thillaud, who manages nice airport as well as the Cannes Mandelieu and

Golfe de saint-Tropez airports. “The new terminal has been designed with the wants and needs of our passengers in mind. We want to offer our clients the best pre-flight experience in Europe and one that reflects the excellence of our region. Across all of our airports, we continue to innovate. now you’ll just wait until 2017 for the inauguration of the new Terminal 2!”

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nice airport is France’s second busiest – after Paris – with over 12 million passengers in 2015. The airport offers direct links to more than 100 destinations in almost 40 countries worldwide through its 61 resident airlines. Outside of Paris, it is the only airport in France that has daily links to new york City and dubai.  nice.aeroport.fr

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french bullDog club of monaco

a Dog is for life

The Riviera’s most exclusive four-pawed club

Not to be thrown out for summer

hen Anett-Patrice van york moved to Monaco two years ago with her now 10-year-old French Bulldog skye, she was not only keen to meet new people, but also fellow ‘Frenchie’ owners. “I couldn’t find anything here that helps French Bulldog owners to connect with each other, like in London or Berlin where i lived before,” she says. “I founded the club not for breeding purposes, but for social purposes because French Bulldogs can have a different way of playing with each other that other breeds don’t understand.” “We have membersonly meetings with the Frenchies each sunday in various locations around Monaco and we also have brunches and dinners. nonmembers are very well to get involved at our charity events to save French Bulldogs and other dogs around the globe in

collaboration with Rotary International and several dog rescue organisations including Rescue Boule. Other breeds are allowed to participate in playtime once a month!” Becoming a member costs 45 euros per year with a 50 euro initiation free. Anett-Patrice says that the founding mission of the club is to give French Bulldogs the opportunity to play with their own breed the way they like to without any restrictions from other ‘nonunderstanding breeds’ and to also provide owners of this popular breed the chance to talk and share their experiences. The club’s website is full of useful information for Frenchie owners and also shares links to companies across the Monaco and France that organise adoption, training, pet photography and provisions for your beloved furry friends! french-bulldog-club-monaco.com

Living on the h F French Riviera. Everything you need to know about living in, or moving to the French Riviera in English.

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very summer, some 60,000 household pets are e left at shelters, abandoned by their owners to the elements or thrown to the waste side in France. nice is taking action to reduce the number of

abandoned animals with an emotive summer awareness campaign. “Is she cute?” asks one poster of a tabby cat. “In six months, Chipie’s owners will throw her out into the wild.” Another, featuring a young mountain dog, says, “Is he cute? In three years, Rocky will finish his walk at the end of a rope.” As well as encouraging owners to take more responsibility for their pets and to organise their holidays with their furry friends in mind, the campaign will also seek to educate citizens about pet adoption. Animal or pet 

angloinfo.fren nchriviera @Ai_Riviera AngloInfo

Y our local, You l l fam f mily il bbutcher h VISIT US IN - STO ORE AT 1 0 RU UE DU MARCHÉ FORVIL LLE 0 6 4 0 0 CANNES 3 5 COURS MASSÉNA 0 6 6 0 0 ANTIBES OR ORDER ONL LINE AT WWW . FABR E . FR

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go furva A club right up your (adopted) street

The american Democrats abroad Celebration of independance he Riviera Chapter of democrats Abroad France, the official country committee for us democrats living in France, is celebrating their home nation’s Independence day with a social and political dinner in Antibes. On Wednesday 6th July, the group will be gathering at the La storia restaurant (1 Boulevard dugommier) in Antibes from 6.30pm for a relaxing and casual dinner in the company of likeminded people. All attendees are expected to order at least one food item from the menu and must RsVP to mffjcmf@ gmail.com prior to the event. The group will also be meeting on 7th september in nice - stay tuned for more information! democratsabroad.org

WIN TICKETS TO THE wiTh riviera insiDer in parTnership wiTh

hether you’re just moved to the area or are already well-acquainted with the goings-on of the Côte d’Azur, furva.com could be of interest to you. This newly launched and totally free online service allows users to search for, set up and get involved with clubs and associations aimed at expats across the world. From sports clubs to charitable associations, Furva is an online

portal that allows you to join with existing clubs or create your own. setting up your profile takes minutes and there are no costs involved. Once you are up and running - or raising funds for a good cause, for that matter - you can create forums for discussion, organise an events calendar, put in place an attendance log to help confirm numbers and promote your club to other members. furva.com

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reaDers’ opinion Brexit, the fallout and becoming French xpats across the south of France, and indeed Europe as a whole, awoke on Friday 24th June to the shocking news that the uK had voted to leave the Eu. What followed was an outcry of disbelief and worry, as Brits living abroad questioned (and not for the first time) what would happen next. But rather than the hypothetical question of ‘What will happen to expats and their rights?’, this time it was all too real. In the run-up to going to print in late June, Riviera Insider spoke to many expats in the south of France about the Brexit result and how they think it could affect not only those already living abroad, but all those who may now never have the same opportunities to live and work in the Eu’s 27 other countries. “It’s a tragic result - what were [those that voted Leave] thinking! Pound in free fall, share market plummeting, price rises imminent... What a bloody shambles!” said one particularly riled reader, Paul spicer.

“I hope there’s a way we can maintain free movement rights.” Claire Paul, a PR and digital media manager in Cannes, said, “I never dreamed that something like Brexit could happen. I'm heartbroken about it because I feel strongly that it will push the British economy to breaking point and into another recession. Jobs will be lost, the nHs is unlikely to survive and it means a very bleak future for millions of young British people. I am British, but for many reasons I raised my son in France, which is a country that I love. What is shocking to me is that Britain is now in a worse state than when my son was born 21 years ago. I want my son and his children to have a strong future and to be able to live and work in the European union so we will be applying for French passports, which we are entitled to, but never thought we would need.” It is a firm reaction, but also one that many will be considering now

the future is looking so unclear. "I don't think voters were armed with facts nor had any idea what leaving the Eu would do to an already battered economy,” she added. “They voted for personal reasons or because they thought they would somehow make Britain great again. Was it ever great? I'm not so sure. The arrogance and selfishness at play from the 75% of baby boomers who voted to leave is astonishing. young people have to pay at least £30,000 to go to university, they can't afford to buy houses and now they have lost the right to live and work in 27 countries. The people who voted leave are overwhelmingly the older generation and will be dead while the millennials and their children have been left a very broken and fractured Britain. "What I feel is a real tragedy is that there's an underlying and very pervasive feeling of fear, racism and a complete lack of education. I am genuinely ashamed to be British, I never thought I would say that, but what the country currently stands for is against everything I have ever believed in. The future is about working together to solve

our problems, but Britain seems determined to go backwards not forwards.” she’s not the only one to be critical of Leave voters’ decisions: “It’s like a small child making a mistake while the big guys are watching, shaking their heads and saying, ‘no! don’t do it!’” said British chef Leigh Wright. Others were shorter in their comments. “I’m so ashamed of my bigoted country,” said Patrick Thornely, a former British expat in nice so has returned to the uK to study. “Gutted, ashamed, disappointed and embarrassed,” said a British mother to two children, both born in France. “you had me in tears this morning, Britain,” one reader from sweden, sofia Grön, who recently moved to London from nice. “That’s a middle finger to progress and the future,” summed up one British commentator on social media.  Riviera Insider loves hearing from its readers and you can reach out to us with your opinions via social media Facebook.com/rivierainsidermaga zine - or by email – rivierainsider@riviera-press.fr. riviera-press.fr/insider

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become a reaDer Where to ﬁnd Riviera Insider iviera Insider is a longestablished publication, formerly The Riviera Times, which reports current affairs and covers lifestyle topics across the Côte d’Azur and Italian Riviera. Our magazine is published bi-monthly throughout the region. Available at all newsstands between saint Tropez and san Remo that sell international press, we bring you the latest news, features and trends direct to your door, as well as online and on our App – Riviera Press. since 2002, our passion has been to give you the inside knowledge on the region’s glamourous destinations and addresses, hotly tipped restaurants, high profile events, artistic and cultural endeavours, business and financial developments, and, of course, breaking news. Our ethos is simple: see more, do more, know more. We update our website daily with news from across the south of France and Liguria, and have

recently launched our own mobile App, allowing readers to stay up-todate with the latest stories wherever they are in the world. We are present on Facebook (search: Riviera Insider) and Instagram (@riviera.insider). We pride ourselves on our knowledge of the region and have created every Anglophones’ perfect ‘little black book’ of essential information from English-speaking doctors and medical practitioners to schools and higher education establishments, and from consulates and embassies to associations and community groups – all of which you can find on our website. Join us today and get the most out of the Riviera by picking up your copy in a newsstand, becoming a subscriber, heading online to visit our website and social media pages, and by downloading our App. riviera-press.fr/insider #rivierainsider

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JulieTTe clarkin

Publishing Director sEBAsTIEn FRAIssE s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr

bold step for one so career orientated and structured! When we first arrived, a few things came to light that made us realise that we were meant to come back - my maternal grandmother was from nice and I discovered that my maternal great grandfather once owned the Villa Eilen Roc on the Cap d’Antibes and was running to be mayor in the 1920s. so there are some ancient family ties.

Mimosa is one of the most prominent and successful charities on the Côte d’Azur. Run by a powerful group of expat women from around the world, including this edition’s expat in focus Juliette Clarkin, the charity raises money for local cancer association La Ligue contre le Cancer 06 and provides essential support to those suﬀering from this traumatic disease. Riviera Insider spoke to Juliette to discover more about this wonderful association as well as her new marketing venture and her surprising family ties to the region she now calls home. hat first brought you to w the French Riviera? Although Irish born and bred, I am actually half French on my mother’s side. It was following the death of my maternal grandfather four years ago that I felt a real need to reconnect with France. The culmination of this and quite a few family losses to cancer in recent years made me realise that it was time for a change from the hustle and bustle of corporate marketing, red eye flights and most importantly never seeing my children and husband. under the new chapter of ‘life is too short’, we sought out the sun and new adventures in the south France. A

How did you become involved with the Mimosa charity? Mimosa was set up nearly three years ago when the brother of one of our committee members was diagnosed with cancer. He was young, fit and it came out of the blue and was a shock to us all. We have all on the Mimosa committee been affected by cancer and this was the pinnacle of a mountain of devastating stories. One of us suggested we hold a fundraiser, which ultimately became the first Mimosa Ball in 2014 in Royal Mougins Golf Resort and has since gained momentum. Our more recent Mimosa Cocktail event in May has also raised funds for the Paediatric Oncology Ward in L’Archet Hospital in nice, providing them with entertainment and equipment that will hopefully help to distract and put some smiles on some very brave little people’s faces as they undergo treatment. I feel so honoured to be part of Mimosa with my fellow members; Gemma Bishop, Ellie Goblet d’Alviella, sophie James, Marilen Kenington, Emma nyman, sara Parks, Anissa Perkins and Camilla Trevelyan-daley. We all believe in the importance of leaving a positive imprint wherever you go and we believe that Mimosa allows

Managing Director JAMEs ROLLAnd j.rolland@riviera-press.fr Editor in chief PETRA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr Editor ELsA CARPEnTER rivierainsider@riviera-press.fr Creative Director VInCEnT ARTus vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr

many in the expat community to do just that in the south of France. You recently launched your own marketing company. Can you tell Riviera Insider about it? I set up Mirador Marketing solutions a few months ago. The wonderful work that we had done with Mimosa over the last few years had presented me to numerous expat businesses down here who, as it turned out, were seeking support and advice in the field of marketing. The collision of my passion for Mimosa and charity work collided with my years of experience in marketing and led to the creation of Mirador Marketing solutions. My clients to date are local businesses who are either starting out or want to rebrand and expand their business, but do not have the time or headspace to dedicate to this area, as they run their daily business. Mirador is a second pair of hands to get a marketing project off the ground or indeed take it over for a while. I am privileged that I have a good network of service providers both here and abroad that can step in and support my clients too. A virtual extended marketing department as it were! Where’s your favourite place to enjoy the summer days of the south of France? Oh dear, where to start! Early morning walks around the Cap d’Antibes with the dogs and kids stopping for a quick dip along the way. My favourite ‘special treat’ beach days are in Cannes at Vega Luna or at Provencal Beach in Juan les Pins. you can’t beat a jambon beurre baguette on the Plage salis in Antibes though, followed by an evening of a pichet of rose, gherkins and olives with friends in Biot!

Account Manager KARInE BALAGny Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 29 marketing@riviera-press.fr Customer Relationship Manager dOMInIQuE FREuLOn Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 d.freulon@riviera-press.fr Contributors Claire Lathbury, sarah Hyde, Julian nundy, Tobias Albert Wille, Malte Rohwer-Kahlmann Secretary CAROLE HEBERT contact@riviera-press.fr Distribution suPERyACHT dIsTRIBuTIOn Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. Articles do not represent the opinion of the Editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct contents of ads. © 2016 - by Riviera Press s.a.r.l.

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