Riviera Insider - July/August 2018 by Riviera Press

GOURMET A gastronomic guide to the Côte d’Azur & Liguria

MONACO Pelagos & the principality: the state of the sea

ART & CULTURE Egypt at the Grimaldi Forum: the Gold of the Pharaohs

SUMMER Blue Flag beaches & seasonal events

riviera see more, do more, know more

# 179 JulY / augusT 2018 4,90 € The

english-language

magazine

for

The

french

riviera

monaco

since

2002

Marie-Christine,

In Provence • www.aumerade.com Please drink responsibly. Consume in moderation.

The true nature of rosé

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Editorial By PETRA HALL

Since the beginning of my career, I always thought I would end my days in front of the computer. But now I have changed my mind. An unexpected craving for freedom and slowing down has caught up with me. For 26 years, our magazines have determined my life. They have shaped my personality and given me infinite exciting experiences. Moments full of happiness, but also difficult periods. Yes, my fires have been burning for RivieraZeit and Riviera Insider (formerly Riviera-Côte d’Azur Zeitung and The Riviera Times, read more on pages 6 and 7). But the blaze has not been extinguished and probably never will be. You will continue to see me in the future at events, such as the Monaco Yacht Show, and other occasions, where I will represent the publishing house Riviera Press. I will also be by the side of

THE TEAM

ELSA CARPENTER

CAROLE HéBERT

FRANÇOISE MULLER

BICH LECOURT

26 years ago, Petra Hall (Riviera Press’ editor-inchief) founded the newspaper Riviera-Côte d’Azur Zeitung in German, which was followed by The Riviera Times in 2003. These titles have now blossomed under the names RivieraZeit and Riviera Insider into attractive, contemporary magazines. The goal from the beginning was to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights from the Mediterranean written by professional mother-tongue journalists. Petra Hall has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape.

VINCENT ARTUS

Elsa Carpenter (editor) has worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years, and brings her modern vision for the media to our magazines. She is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur, and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers.

DOMINIQUE FREULON

Bich Lecourt (managing director) was born in Antibes. Since completing her PhD in Economics, she has worked in Sophia Antipolis so is well-acquainted with the business ecosystem and atmosphere of the French Riviera. From architecture to interior design and décor, Bich likes discovering new parts of the region and enjoying the quintessential Côte d’Azur lifestyle. Carole Hébert (secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. Besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly.

PATRICE SAINT-LEGER

DANIEL NARO

our editorial teams when we go to print. Obviously I can’t resign completely… But, as I said, the lust for a new life is just too powerful. Please let me at this point thank all readers, partners and colleagues for their fidelity and trust during the last decades! Our common path has been an incredible adventure full of emotions! Now Elsa Carpenter takes the sceptre. I leave Riviera Insider in good hands. I have been working with this Welsh girl for nearly eight years, so I have had plenty of time to appreciate her competences and reliability. Good luck Elsa, good luck Riviera Insider!

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The Niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer. Françoise Muller (sales & marketing) is originally from Dijon, but has been living and working on the Côte d'Azur since 1993. For 14 years, she has thrived on her work in the communications and marketing industry, and is now an enthusiastic member of our team. Her hobbies include literature and sports. Dominique Freulon (events & distribution), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. She is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature. Patrice Saint-Léger (sales & marketing) has been working in the communications sector for more than ten years. After studying business administration and entrepreneurship, our Cannes-born publicist discovered his passion in the advertising business – for its creativity and aesthetics. During his free time, his interests lie in sports and nature. Daniel Naro (sales & marketing) nearly became a professional footballer in his northern French home of Metz. Plan B was the insurance industry, but 25 years later, he sought the sun and found it on the Côte d'Azur. After re-launching his career in the media, he recently joined the professional and collaborative Riviera Press team. JulY / augusT 2018

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au revoir,

after more than 25 years at the helm of our publications, riviera Press editor-in-chief Petra Hall is starting a new life.

She has held her course

By ROLF LIFFERS

t has taken an unbelievably strong and determined woman to give a voice to the many thousands of expats – Anglophones and German-speakers alike – on the Côte d’Azur and Italian Riviera. Ever since founding RivieraZeit (formerly known as Riviera-Côte d’Azur Zeitung) in 1992 and Riviera Insider (previously The Riviera Times) in 2002, Petra Hall has helped foreigners adapt to life in a new land. She has tirelessly shown newcomers to the region the social and practical skills needed to understand, navigate and master the rules of an unfamiliar place, and has taught them to be respectful and confident – but never arrogant – when dealing with its natives and authorities. She has also demonstrated how conflicts can be calmly resolved among people of different nationalities. And all this through tools she created herself: the only dedicated foreign-language publications in the south of France and Liguria.

To a life of freedom She can look back on an enormous number of achievements and is a beacon of mutual respect. Now she passes down an outstanding journalistic legacy that is for others to continue. Following this final issue, Petra will retreat to, in her own words, a ‘more laidback life’. Never in the history of 309 and 179 editions of RivieraZeit and Riviera Insider respectively has she been absent from these pages. “I’m really looking forward to a life of freedom, of being able to do exactly what I want,”

she says, refusing to dwell in nostalgic pathos. We’re of course happy for her, albeit with a tear in the eye. Even those who have worked alongside her in these past decades can only have a superficial understanding of the work and effort she has poured into the magazines. We love her and will certainly miss her, but rejoice – if grudgingly – with her that she will finally get some time to herself. Writing words of praise, that’s the hardest task for every journalist. So it really struck me to have been selected to come up with ‘a few worthy parting words’. Let me tell you, there’s just nothing bad to say about this woman. How annoying! When you’re writing an obituary, you can at least be sure your protagonist won’t complain afterwards. But our editor-in-chief is as alive as ever, and there’s a good chance she will find something to nag about. She doesn’t fit any cliché The safest thing to do is simply to quote others, including the chief editors of Die Zeit, the renowned German national weekly newspaper published in Petra’s hometown of Hamburg: “Self-assertive and contemplative”... “Particular and exacting yet supple”... “Traditional but also innovative”... “Worldly and down to earth”... She doesn’t fit any cliché. Far more than just her German origins, Petra is an Anglo-, Franco- and Italo-phile. Thoroughly individualist, she can be a bit unpredictable, but that’s great if you like surprises and you’ll never get bored in her company. From the very start, the positive reactions of her readers were proof that she had reco-

prince alBert oF Monaco & petra hall know each other well: they are pictured here in the palace gardens

JulY / augusT 2018

gnised a real gap in the expat and foreign visitor market. It was harder, however, to convince the region’s ‘institutions’ (as she describes them) of the power her German and English-language publications held. “It took years for the various decision makers to finally understand what we had become,” she reflects, “an influential source of news and information.” But neither this nor times of economic hardship dulled her passion and ambition for the magazines: “The more difficult things became, the thicker my skin got.” During her tenure, Petra has seen numerous other foreign language newspapers and publications come – and go. She, however, has kept her course even in the stormiest seas of the press world and has stood solidly by her principles. The most overriding of these pertain to quality. To this end, she has built around herself a team of experienced, native-speaker journalists who understand and know the area well. They conduct independent research to report on verifiable information. A rock of international culture Another of her principles was to share knowledge on a broad range of topics. She has tackled everything from environmental reporting to crime, culture, business and gastronomy. The reputation of her magazines has drawn interest from specialist contributors from the fields of tax and the law, to name just a few. She defied lobbyists and uncovered the man-made causes behind algae and oil pests as well as plagues of insects. She denounced arsonists, reckless

aMBassador wasuM-rainer distinguishes petra hall For her services to gerMan-French relations

Backstage in nice with scorpions singer klaus Meine

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peTra hall! INTRODUCING

in the stormiest of seas road hogs and robbers. The topics she covered showed how courageous a woman she is. Today RivieraZeit and Riviera Insider stand alone as the only dedicated foreign-language publications on the Côte d’Azur. Together they reach an estimated 100,000 readers. It must be said that Petra has not only distinguished herself as a journalist, editor-in-chief and publisher, but also as a rock of international culture in the heart of the Mediterranean.

a biography Petra Hall was born in Hamburg to a father from Denmark and a mother from Westphalia, a region in northwestern Germany. She lived in the city for 20 years before she headed south: “German blood still flows in my veins, but Nice is where I plan to stay.” At the age of 17, Petra embarked on her first visit to France. Her inaugural experience of the French Riviera was a trip to Fréjus with a stamp collectors club. “The way of life, the climate, the food, the palm trees and the charm of the Côte d’Azur captured my imagination,” she says. “They never left me.” Six years later, at 23, Petra headed for the Mediterranean coast once more, fell in love and by 25 was married to a Ligurian native. She is a teacher by training and taught in both Germany and Italy, but her real vocation took some time to reveal itself. Her early steps into journalism were as a freelancer for the renowned Süddeutsche Zeitung, Die Welt (a German national daily newspaper) and Merian (a travel magazine). She founded the German-language Riviera-Côte d'Azur Zei-

tung in 1992, a project she wholeheartedly committed to. The Riviera Times came a decade later and the Italian-language Corriere della Costa Azzurra the following year in 2003. Things changed in 2015 when the two first titles were relaunched as part of a publishing house, Riviera Press, owned by the young French entrepreneur Sebastien Fraisse. Riviera-Côte d'Azur Zeitung became RivieraZeit and The Riviera Times was rebranded as Riviera Insider. The changes were in more than just name: the now bi-monthly magazines contain twice as much editorial content and offer a greater scope for professional journalism. Things are moving in a direction Petra is happy with and she will leave her post at the head of the magazines feeling content. But what will change for her personally? It’s time to live now, so she won’t suffer the fate of poet Colette, who only realised very late: “What a wonderful life I’ve had. I only wish I would have noticed it earlier.” “I’ll read, travel, cook and wander more,” she says. “I’ll listen to more music: Mozart, Puccini, the Beatles, Johnny Cash. And I will finally have more time for my daughters and grandchildren in Liguria and America.” She’ll also be able to reflect on the many memorable encounters – Prince Albert II of Monaco, Brigitte Bardot, the Scorpions, Sir Cliff Richard... – she has had over the last 26 years as editor-in-chief. As for the team she leaves behind, we hope she visits often and continues to share her indelible passion for print journalism, the media and the Riviera. 

About Rolf Liffers: our chief freelance reporter himself has a long career as a journalist. at 21, he became the youngest ever editor of the Westfälische rundschau. He has subsequently worked for WaZ (Westdeutsche allgemeine Zeitung), the Westdeutscher rundfunk and the dPa. rolf liffers has a great affinity for the south of France and spends much of his time at his home in Bormes-les-Mimosas.

Riviera Insider editor Elsa Carpenter When i moved to France in august 2011, i had no idea that one year abroad for my French and Public relations degree would be extended beyond those 12 months, let alone into seven years. Needless to say, that year changed my life. During my first taste of the south, i spent a semester at a business school in the heart of Nice before discovering Riviera Insider (then The Riviera Times). i sent the editor an email. She didn’t have any space for me on her team, but agreed to a fortnight’s internship. it grew first to a month, then to two. When i packed up my apartment at the end of the summer to return to Liverpool for my final year of university, i was still working there. a couple of months later, i was back in the Côte d’azur and at my old desk. Following a brief stint in yacht marketing – an almost unavoidable industry for any expat here - i was drawn back to writing and journalism, and re-joined Riviera Insider as its editor in spring 2016. Now with our editor-in-chief Petra Hall leaving for her well-deserved retirement, 2018 represents another stage at the magazine for me. There is no other way to describe my time at Riviera Insider other than the very best immersive experience for a girl from the Welsh valleys. i know the names, characteristics and sights to see of almost every village, town and city in the region, and am full of recommendations on where to eat, drink and take all those guests who come to visit. in many ways, i am the reader as well as the writer: always on the hunt of something new to see, do and learn. if you have any suggestions, please let me know! e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr

there have Been no shortage oF exciting events - such as the JulY / augusT 2018

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Issue #179 SEE MORE, DO MORE, kNOW MORE Cover photo restaurant la pergola at le Mas candille in Mougins © Christophe Pozzo di Borgo

conTenTs

The Hotlist News from the region

10 Gourmet A 20-page gastronomic guide to the Côte d’Azur & Monaco

16 Beaches Blue Flag swimming spots

36 Liguria From jungle to organic oasis: biodynamic agriculture at La Rutabaga

38 Menton, Riviera & Merveilles Mer & montagne: communes in the east of the Alpes-Maritimes unite

42 Below photo roqueBrune-cap-Martin: in a special Feature, riviera insider explores the recently Founded intercoMMunity oF Menton, riviera & Merveilles © DR

A focus on RoquebruneCap-Martin

Monaco Pelagos & the principality: the state of the sea

46 Art & Culture The Gold of the Pharaohs at the Grimaldi Forum

52 Yves klein & his IkB

56 Art & nature by Armand Scholtès at the International Perfume Museum

Yachting Reporting from the Yacht Club de Monaco: Solar & Energy Boat Challenge

70 Lifestyle L. Raphael launches skin programme for young adults

72 Ritz-Carlton launches luxury cruise

62 Eco Sport Teeing off on the Côte d’Azur: Saint Endréol

A new national park for France: Sainte-Baume

66 No more snow: the story of one mountain town & its drive for alternatives

Business & Finance Double success for Compagnie Monégasque de Banque

77 Riviera Press Spring Rendezvous at Le Mas Candille

78 Events What’s on the agenda?

84 Community Riviera Insider on tour

88 Expat Focus: perfumer Jessica Buchanan from Canada

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All about ETIAS Ever since the fateful vote in June 2016, questions have been asked about how Brexit will impact British citiBy ELSA CARPENTER zens travelling to Europe. Now the European Commission has revealed the likely future: citizens will have to apply for special travel authorisation via the ETIAS or European Travel Information & Authorisation System scheme. Over 60 countries around the world – notably the US, Canada, much of South America, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, UAE, Japan, and parts of Southeast Asia – are currently granted visa-free access to the Schengen states for 90 days in any 180-day period. Until March 2019, British citizens will benefit from unlimited access, but once the Uk exits the European Union, the most likely scenario is that the British will join this list of ‘third country’ nations that enjoy visaexemption and liberalisation status. “We need to know who is crossing our borders,” said Jean-Claude Juncker, the president of the European Commission, during a State of the Union address three months after the Brexit vote. “By November, we will propose an automated system to determine who will be allowed to travel in Europe. We will know who is travelling to Europe before they even get here.” The Commission delivered the first drafts of ETIAS on time. A year later, a political agreement on its formation was reached among co-legislators. In April 2018, when the final approval was given, First Vice-President Frans Timmermans, Commissioner for Migration, Home Affairs and Citizenship Dimitris Avramopoulos and Commissioner for the Security Union Julian king said in a joint statement, “ETIAS is an important step towards building a safer and more secure Europe. This new system will carry out pretravel screening for security and migration risks of travellers benefiting from visa-free access to the Schengen area. By cross-checking visa-exempt travellers against our information systems for borders, security and migration, ETIAS will help us identify anyone who may pose a security or migration risk before he or she even reaches the EU border.” It is clear that improving internal security and ‘reinforcing the fight against crime and terrorism’ have ranked high on the objectives for the newly approved scheme. Indeed ETIAS has come on the back of a

the Future oF european travel

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“ETIAS IS AN IMPORTANT STEP TOWARDS BUILDING A SAFER AND MORE SECURE EUROPE.”

wave of other security measures: the adoption ofthe European Agenda on Security (April 2015); an Action Plan on Firearms and Explosives (December 2015); an Action Plan on Terrorist Financing (February 2016); and the launch of the European Border and Coast Guard system (October 2016). Migration and Home Affairs Commissioner Avramopoulos has previously described ETIAS as the missing link in border management, arguing, “Europe’s openness does not come at the cost of its security.” His views have been supported by his commissioner colleague king: “Terrorists and criminals don’t care much for national borders. The only way to defeat them is by working together effectively. ETIAS will help do that by spotting problem individuals and stopping them from coming [to Europe].” The European Commission, meanwhile, has stated that the ETIAS application process will be ‘affordable, simple, fast and carried out in full respect of fundamental rights and EU data protection rules’.

key figures €7 the cost of an application

95% of all applications to be approved within minutes

€212 million the estimated cost of setting up ETIAS

2021 the year the system goes operational

60+ countries around the world currently enjoy visa-exempt status for their residents when travelling within the EU

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the etias systeM will Be put in place FroM 2021 © Ab Elena

The organisation has also been keen to stress that the ETIAS is not a visa, but ‘a lighter and more visitorfriendly regime’ and a complement to the EU’s visa liberalisation policy. It should be noted that ETIAS is not a reaction to Brexit – the EU had been working to strengthen its external borders long before 52% of the British people voted to leave the community – but it does provide a feasible solution for concerns about travel rights that the British government has, so far, been unable to sufficiently calm.

The application & validation process

rom 2021, visa-exempt non-EU citizens will have to fill out a 10-minute ETIAS application form online and pay a €7 up-front fee (for those between 18 and 70 years of age). The application will then be forwarded for automatic processing where the

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data requested during the application (residency information and criminal record, for example) will be checked against databases belonging to organisations such as Interpol. If something is flagged, the application will then be handled manually. It is, however, estimated that 95% of all cases will be given automated approval and ‘communicated within minutes of payment’. Positive responses will be received within 96 hours and authorisation to travel in the Schengen zone will be accorded for three years or until the expiry of the travel document (passport or equivalent) provided during the application process – whichever comes first! In the case of a refusal, the applicant retains the right to appeal. Those holding authorisations will be expected to provide proof prior to boarding (by air, land or sea) in addition to their formal identification. Authorisation may be revoked if it is found that ETIAS conditions are no longer met, if it was ‘fraudulently obtained’, if the holder has been refused entry to an EU member state or if the document has been reported lost or stolen. www.europa.eu JulY / augusT 2018

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An interesting alternative

riviera airport in alBenga

At just 20 mins by helicopter and less than an hour by car from the Principality of Monaco, the currently under-development Riviera Airport in Liguria could soon be an interesting alternative to the over-crowded airports of the Côte d’Azur. The airfield, which has a 1.5-kilometre runway and will cater to private jets and planes up to 60 tonnes at take-off, has existed in rough form for almost a century. Founded in 1922 by Italian fighter pilot Clemente Panero, it has previously been used for military and industrial aviation. Riviera Airport recently entered into a partnership with HADID International, a 35-year-old aviation logistics company. The result is Riviera Executive Aviation, an entity dedicated to the smooth handling

of all services for passengers and aircraft. “This is a unique venture we are very excited to be part of,” says company chairman Mohamad Hadid. “Riviera Airport has significant potential to become the foremost General Aviation airport in the region.” Clemens Toussaint, the chairman of Riviera Airport, adds, “We are delighted to develop this beautiful airport on the Italian coastline together with our new partner. HADID, a leader in private aviation services, will provide all future guest services and be the cornerstone [of making] Riviera Airport a success”. In the near future, an ultramodern airport – the first and only airport for privatised general aviation in Italy – will be built in Villanova d'Albenga. A modernised terminal, extended runaway and automatic navigation system are among just some of the planned projects.  www.riviera-airport.it

Ligne 2 gets going First section oF the new traM opened

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Since the end of June, trams have been active on the first section of Nice’s Ligne 2 tramway to be opened between the CADAM Centre Administratif and the Magnan station near Hôpital Lenval. The entire length, which will eventually stretch from the port to the airport to cover 11.3 kilometres, is expected to be completed in September 2019. In total, the full journey will take 26 minutes. When finished, the city hopes to take 600 buses off its busy streets. A third tramline is already in the works for the Eco Vallée area to the north of the Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. This will link the CADAM with the Allianz Riviera stadium as well as the future IkEA furniture store.  www.tramway.nice.fr

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Getting to know Antibes This summer, rediscover the muchvisited and photographed port city of antibes with two new bilingual guides: the tourism oﬃce’s antibes Juan-lesPins Couleurs d’Azur guide and one resident’s Free Walking Tours.

official guide book All you need to know about Antibes and its neighbour Juan-les-Pins in one book! Created by the Office of Tourism and Congress, this illustrated 96-page guide is full of practical and interesting information on everything from cultural to sports, history and leisure activities. The book is available in both French and English, and costs €5. It can be bought at the tourism offices on 42 Avenue Robert Soleau and 60 Chemin des Sables. www.antibesjuanlespins.com

Walking tours Since spring, Antibes resident Cedric Pages has been offering free guided tours to his beloved city every week from Tuesday to Saturday. Each session lasts around two hours and typically start on Place du Général de Gaulle before visiting the Provençal market, travel through the commune libre of Safranier to the remparts, Grimaldi castle and Picasso Museum. Even if you’ve lived in Antibes for many years, English-speaking Cedric will almost certainly have a fact or anecdote to share that you’ll never have heard before! Cedric, who has travelled around the world, says he was inspired to start the tip-based tours after becoming a father. “It gave me a fresh perspective on life,” he says, “and led me to a new endeavour to create a life where I am more available for my beautiful little girl and kiwi wife.” He also organises private, paid tours and hopes to soon host evening visits of Antibes. www.antibesfreewalkingtours.com

JulY / augusT 2018

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Small towns, big investments

project: action cœur de ville

More than 220 small to medium-sized towns across France are to receive a total of five billion euros in state investments over the next five years under a project known as Action Cœur de Ville. From the creation of jobs to improving public transport as well as educational, sport and cultural facilities, the project hopes to breathe new life and modernity into the town centres chosen. At the launch of the project in spring 2018, Minister for Territorial Cohesion Jacques

Mézard said, “Medium-sized towns and cities are essential in the development of our country. They account for 23% of the French population and 26% of employment. Their vitality is important because it benefits the entire area, including surrounding urban and suburban areas. The heart of the town is where social and economic aspects of life come together.” Among those selected for investment: Grasse and Vallauris (AlpesMaritimes); Draguignan and Brignoles (Var); Arles and Tarascon (Bouches-du-Phône); Cavaillon, Avignon and Carpentras (Vaucluse); Manosque and Digne-les-Bains (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence); and Gap and Briançon (Hautes-Alpes, pictured). 

Slow down! From 1st July, the speed limit on country roads has been reduced from 90km/h to 80km/h as the government tries to cut down the number of deaths of France roads each year. It is estimated that 400,000km of tarmac across the country has been affected as the rule applies to all roads on which the two carriageways are not separated by a physical barrier. According to Prime Minister Edouard Philippe, the reduction will save between 350 and 400 lives a year. The change – and whether or not it has had any impact – will reportedly be reviewed in two years’ time. Currently more

speed liMit reduced FroM 90 to 8okM/h

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people die on French roads each year than anywhere else in Western Europe (54 per 1,000,000 citizens). The figure is also higher than the EU average of 51 deaths per million in 2016. Indeed after falling for 12 years, the number of annual deaths increased in 2014. During the last two years, there has been an average of nine deaths and 65 injuries on France’s roads each day! At the start of 2018, the French government’s committee for road safety revealed that excessive speed was the leading killer (31%) followed by alcohol and substance abuse (19% and 9%). The Comité Interministériel de la Sécurité Routière also acknowledged that fatal accidents are most likely to happen on roads such as those affected by the change in law: double direction roads with no central barrier. 

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GOURMET

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GOURMET

Contents a family aﬀair at Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit

18 editor’s experience: Le Pinocchio

Summer dining

dossier

gourmeT

By ELSA CARPENTER

What would summer in the south of France be without fresh Mediterranean cuisine on a beautiful al fresco terrace? For this edition, riviera insider’s editorial team visited restaurants, bistros and boutiques across the region – not forgetting a dedicated food truck festival – as we searched for the perfect place in which to enjoy one of the ﬁner sides of Côte d’azur living...

Villa Belrose: the real star of Saint Tropez

21 Il Pane di Simona

22 Zucchero & Farina

23 Stars & other symbols

24 idyllic Provence lives on at the Mas de Pierre

25 Jérôme Héraud of the Cantemerle: a man of many talents

26 a Midsummer Night’s Dream at Le Mas Candille

28 La Gaudinade: “an old Provençal word for a party, a feast…”

29 Food trucks

30 Lunch at La Langouste

32 southern suMMers on a plate at la villa Belrose in saint tropeZ © Aline Gerard

amuse-bouches

33 JulY / augusT 2018

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GOURMET

a family aﬀair LE FIGUIER DE SAINT-ESPRIT

it isn’t often that you come across a whole family working beneath one roof anymore, let alone in a Michelin-starred restaurant. Yet Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit in antibes has just that: the doting father, a welcoming wife and two talented sons, including one who put his travelling days behind him to return to the paternal kitchen. By ELSA CARPENTER Photos christian Morisset & his restaurant in the heart oF old antiBes © D.R.

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hristian Morisset knew he wanted to be a chef from the tender age of five. It’s been a life-long passion that he’s now transferred to his two adult sons, Jordan and Matthias, who work alongside him in the restaurant’s kitchen. “Tout seul, on n’y arrive pas,” says the chef. “Alone we achieve nothing.” In the circle of life that is Le Figuier de SaintEsprit, his boys have in turn inspired their father: to create two of his most celebrated dishes and to open his own restaurant after many years as the executive chef of Hôtel Juana in Juan-les-Pins, which had previously been run by Alain Ducasse. Christian, who is easily recognisable by his famous moustache, bought La Jarre in 2007, changed its name to honour the site’s 50-year-old fig tree, and won a Michelin star for Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit in 2010. The birth of his eldest son Jordan – who has recently come back to the family restaurant after several years working as a chef in New York, Singapore, Corsica, Switzerland and Melbourne – in 1988 led him to imagine the first of Les Incontournables. For €75, guests are treated to the visual delight of a saddle of lamb baked in clay from Vallauris and served with truffle gnocchi, seasonal vegetables and a thyme flower jus. Over 29,000 have been served in the past three decades and each is presented with a plaque for the diner to take away. When Matthias was born in 1991, Christian was compelled to create a new signature plat. This time it would feature squid ink cannelloni with supions and small clams (€55). “There are people who come to Le Figuier and don’t even want to see the menu,” says the restaurant’s young and multi-lingual sommelier Nicolas Vieilleville. “They’ll have known Chris-

tian for years and have already decided they want the lamb or the pasta!” Just as we order, an American guest at the table next to us receives the lamb saddle. It’s the 29,878th. “Perhaps we’ll break 30,000 this year,” laughs the wine connoisseur. Much of Le Figuier’s ingredients come from the open-air Marché Forville in Cannes, which Christian visits every morning. He knows his suppliers well and likes to taste the produce before it reaches his kitchen. He also only buys freshly caught fish, never farmed. Quality is everything to this chef and he proudly tells Riviera Insider that his bread comes from a fourth generation baker in Antibes, Jean Paul Véziano, who produced the bread that was served at Prince Albert II’s wedding in 2011. Every budget will feel at ease here: the twocourse lunch menu costs €42; the Le Figuier menu is €89 (during the off-peak season, one guest dines for free); and the seven-course tasting menu is available from €138 (an accompanying wine experience is offered for an additional €60). If wine is something that piques your interest, the 35-page carte à vin should be enough reading for one evening. For further entertainment, guests can watch Christian and his lively team preparing every dish from the comfort of their seat via a live streaming screen: “I’ve got nothing to hide,” he jokes. The roof above the courtyard can be closed entirely in winter months, when a cold wind comes in from the nearby sea, but whether for privacy or romance in the sunshine or under a cloudy sky, the dappled shade of the fig tree creates a truly magical atmosphere. “People go out to a restaurant for an escape,” says Christian. “I hope we provide that here.” restaurant-figuier-saint-esprit.com 

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ediTor’s experience Le Pinocchio By ELSA CARPENTER

“QUITE SIMPLY WAS ONE OF THE FINEST PASTA DISHES I HAVE EVER EATEN.”

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bandon preconceptions that restaurants on the Rock of Monaco are nothing but expensive tourist traps. True, there are plenty of cafés serving overpriced crêpes and Croque Monsieurs, but Le Pinocchio on Rue Comte Félix Gastaldi doesn’t play to that crowd. Born in Romania, Liviu Iove has been the owner of the restaurant for two and a half years. He says he was inspired to join the hospitality industry by his father, who ran the royal palaces of Bucharest during his son’s childhood. Prior to moving to the principality – “Long a dream of my wife and myself…” – Liviu studied at the HTMi Hotel & Tourism Management Institute in Switzerland then spent 10 years in Paris, where he managed a number of restaurants belonging to the Rothschild family. “I knew I was buying a Monegasque institution when I purchased Le Pinocchio,” he says, “and that I would be catering to a certain prestigious clientele.” During the week-day lunches, Liviu’s guests could include government personnel, civil servants from the nearby mairie, teachers from the Albert 1er de Monaco and François d'Assise Nicolas Barré schools, and tourists of any number of nationalities (Liviu himself is impressively multi-lingual). By night and at the weekends, his team welcomes celebrity faces and VIPs from the world over. “The Société des Bains de Mer sends many of its best contacts my way,” he says with a smile. “Prince Albert has been coming here for years and it’s always a pleasure to serve him and the great families of Monaco.” Liviu’s family roots are in Italy, a heritage reflected in his passion for its authentic cuisine and respect for its chefs; his entire kitchen team is Italian. Once a month, Sardinian head chef Gabriele Piga comes to the restaurant to train its staff in the workings of the menu, which changes regularly. Everything is fait maison and fresh. When we visit in May, the antipasti include roast octopus with beetroot bavarois, pepper and olive oil (€19) and burrata di bufala with capers, olives and sundried tomatoes (€18). The restaurant is particularly well-known for its handmade pasta: lasagna aperta or open lasagne with seabream, topinambour, asparagus and salmon caviar (€21) and tagliolini with garlic, chilli and Gambero Rosso di Mazara (€19). The crowning glory of the menu – and a creation of Liviu’s – is the Fata Turchina risotto or tagliatelle (€29). This is what I choose, but the performance that follows is certainly not what I expected. A wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano DOP aged for 24 months is brought out to our table on the Piaceta François Bosio. Liviu pours a generous portion of Cointreau 1849 into an inch-deep hollow of the cheese and lights it. He gently scoops at the softened parmesan before

flambéing fresh pasta with mascarpone, pear and pistachio. There are no tall tales or growing noses here: it’s exquisite and quite simply one of the finest pasta dishes I have ever eaten. “That balance between sucré and salé is just… Perfect!” says the boss, who clearly likes to get involved in the preparation and presentation of his restaurant’s dishes. To accompany our meal in the intimacy of the little square, with its flower-covered well and fresco walls, Liviu serves Pratello, an organic Pinot Grigio from Lombardy. In this peaceful enclave, it’s hard to believe that we’re just metres away from the tourist-dominated Place du Palais. “From our food to our wine, and our style of service to our quirky tableware,” he says, gesturing to the 90° folded plates on which the desserts arrive, “I genuinely enjoy giving our guests new experiences. I know that parking, for example, can be complicated on the Rock so we offer a navette, which guests can reserve two to three hours in advance from anywhere in the principality.” Our lunch is concluded with two delicate sweets – a cheese mousse with lemon jelly, strawberry salad, honey and basil (€14) and zabaione with red fruits and tomato jam (€12) – and a small glass of Liviu’s preferred dessert wine, Antinori Muffato della Sala. The restaurant is open all year round and seven days a week, which is unusual on Le Rocher. The pretty outdoor terrace will be open all summer long and until the end of October – perhaps even longer depending on the weather.  www.lepinocchiomonaco.com

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cheF pietro volonté © Aline Gerard

The real star of Saint Tropez SUMMER AT LA VILLA BELROSE

t has long been touted that this five-star member of the Althoff Hotel Collection owns the finest view in Saint Tropez, with a breath-taking panorama of the bay. But let’s not forget the other reason to visit this luxury address, which can also be enjoyed from the terrace. Since 2016, chef Pietro Volonté, a man whose name feels as good on the tongue as his gastronomic creations, has held a Michelin star here. You could say that his famous town has enough of the celebrity and culinary kind already, but it is well-deserved by Volonté. Whether served on the famous outdoor setting of Le Belrose, whose spacious terrace was made for the vista it offers, or by the scintillating pool at Petit Belrose, the chef’s Italian-influenced and Mediterranean cuisine are inspired by the richness of the summer season in the region. Three menus are offered – Campania for €129, seafood for €135 and an eight-course tasting menu for €155 – in addition to a plethora of seductive à la carte dishes: sea bream carpaccio with basil tagliolini (€42); pan-fried scallops, Pigna beans and a crusta-

cean sauce (€57); Vialone Nano risotto with aubergine caviar, cuttlefish, oregano and grapefruit zest (€41); terrine of foie gras and ox tail with wild garlic and honey-marinated mushrooms (€51); monkfish with asparagus, Baeri caviar and red pepper (€64); John Dory with spiced guacamole, poached oyster, lime and chorizo (€64); roast lamb with apricot, rosemary, aubergine, lemon and thyme (€59);

and beef fillet from Piedmont with a millefeuille of potatoes and Caprino, black garlic puree and rosemary sauce (€61). The desserts are just as intriguing: confit Pastiera Napoletana fruits, ewe ricotta ice cream, chilled orange soup and a limoncello emulsion (€21); candied apple terrine with coriander (€25); an orange blossom biscuit, almond mousse, citrus heart dark cherry sorbet and purple shiso (€25); or rhubarb with rose, white chocolate mousse and coconut-litchi sorbet (€25). Petit Belrose serves lighter dishes, such as Gambas Rosso di Mazara with tomato and chile sauce, pizza al bianco with summer truffles or octopus al rosto with, creamy polenta, green olives and a red wine sauce. The restaurant by the pool is open from 12pm till 5pm every day. The all-round experience offered by the Villa Belrose – elegant, relaxing, and with a dreamlike view and top-quality gastronomy – makes it one place that will draw you back, summer after summer. www.villa-belrose.com 

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Like the bread of olden days AT IL PANE DI SIMONA IN PIETRA LIGURE, EVERY BITE IS ExqUISITE

When making her bread, Simona Taddeo follows her own personal recipes that are full of passion and energy. She is part of a new generation in Liguria; one that wants to stand on its own two feet despite the many hurdles.

riviera insider: Your bread, pizza and focaccia are simply delicious! They taste just like they used to in a bygone time. How have you achieved this? simona taddeo: I only use stone-milled Italian grains of organic origin with Lievito Madre, an Italian sourdough that contains flour, water, olive oil and honey. It can be used for light bread and bun dough as well as pizza, sweet yeast and darker bread dough. Many of the cereals I use today had been ‘forgotten’. It was a great pleasure to rediscover them. Where did the concept for your bakery, with its organic appetisers and snacks, come from? It has always been my passion to bake special bread. Here in this area, there are hardly any organic baked goods made from quality cereals. The flour options available can ultimately cause health problems. When I was preparing to open the bakery, I attended courses all over Italy to deepen my research... I came across so many different and ancient cereals. There are 52 of them in Sicily alone! I also always offer gluten-free and vegan products. I do not use greasy fats in my baking either: I make bread with figs, apricots, squash and nuts.

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Your shop on the Via Aurelia in Pietra Ligure is open every day from June to September. You do all the purchasing, dough preparation, baking, and stand in the shop and sell! How can one person manage all that alone? It is indeed very hard work, but I try to organise myself as well as possible. I also try to avoid night shifts! It is important to me to dedicate myself to the customer and to act as advisor. For example, if you keep it in a dry kitchen towel, my bread will last for over a week. Some customers are interested to learn that I use other cereals daily such as quinoa, amaranth, linseed, millet, spelt and buckwheat, which they can also buy in part from me. What do your customers value most? That my products are gut-friendly and that inflammation and irritations of the digestive system are prevented, even if they are consumed regularly! You can also order your favourite bread via my Facebook page: @ilpanedisimonaanticoforno. 

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every aspect oF rosalBa’s cakes, even the sMallest details, are handMade

Courage? No, passion! NEWLY OPENED IN LOANO: ZUCCHERO & FARINA

l-r: nadia ZuFFo & rosalBa poggi at the launch oF Zucchero & Farina

rosalba and Nadia take their ﬁrst steps into entrepreneurship with their gastronomia.

hey both had solid jobs in the tourism industry for many years so had little to no experience of going it along without the security of a regular pay cheque. Still, the two colleagues had dreams beyond their desks. Rosalba Poggi (55) wanted nothing more than to spend her days baking and not just simple cakes, but beautiful Black Forest cherry delights, delicate macarons and unique, designer creations. Nadia Zuffo (48), on the other hand, had been passionately cooking her grandmother's recipes since childhood: handmade ravioli, vegetable pies, stuffed courgettes, onions and peppers, pasta sauces, Italian salad and much more. “One day, we realised that we actually complement each other perfectly,” say the two women. After that, everything started moving rather quickly: they quit their long-term jobs, rented a shop with a kitchen attached in a good location in Loano (Via dei Gazzi 45), and started tackling the mountain of bureaucratic obstacles. Before they knew it, they were stood in Zucchero & Farina, their very own gastronomia. The term can be loosely translated to deli-catessen. In the case of Rosalba and Nadia, only the finest ingredients of largely organic origin are used to cook or bake their products. Even in Ligu-

ria, which remains relatively traditional, the will to produce dinner from scratch every night is slipping in the population so the Zucchero & Farina range is the ideal solution for those who don’t have the time to spend hours at the stove, but want to enjoy quality, handmade meals. The pair doesn’t serve any of their food on site and instead offer flexible opening hours (until 8.30pm). If you haven’t had time to get to the supermarket, there’s no need to worry! Back to Rosalba and her love of baking, which was particularly awakened during a trip to Scotland. She took recipes she discovered there with her back to Loano and was soon producing cakes of all kinds that even some professional confectioners can’t match. With her innate patience and intuition, she creates genuine marvels for every occasion as well as the customers who come into her store each day. They opened Zucchero & Farina in late May in the presence of many guests and hopefully future customers. Being such humble women, it seemed as though they were still yet to realise that their dream had come true. So did they fear this step into the unknown? “Yes,” they say at once, “but our passion was stronger!” 

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diamond To dusT An end to the Monegasque rankings uring the 1940s in Monaco, government officials sought to find a way of encouraging restaurateurs to provide a minimum level of service that corresponded to what a customer was ‘entitled to expect’ from a Monegasque establishment. The Losanges ratings system was the result. What began with three diamonds (the translation of losanges) was extended to five in 2011 – an attempt to differentiate the ranking from other gastronomic guides, such as the famous Michelin production. “The ratings were based on objective criteria related to the organisation of the restaurant – its setting, the presentation of the tables, the service from waiting and kitchen staff, the menu – but not its gastronomy. Only industry professionals are able to provide that type of insight,” says André Vatrican of the principality’s Direction de la Communication. Following advice from the Association Indépendante des Hôteliers de Monaco (AIHM), the Monegasque government met in early 2018 to discuss the system. It was decided that among all of the other review and ratings sources – official restaurant guides, sites like TripAdvisor and social

the Michelin-starred cuisine oF pietro volonté, the head cheF oF la villa Belrose in saint tropeZ © Aline Gerard

networks – ‘the information provided by the Losanges was no longer required by customers’. “People don’t expect a government to provide such information anymore,” summarises Vatrican. “The government thus chose to end the Losanges system in April.” So it’s the end of the diamonds, but maybe not all forms of classification. “A study is underway regarding the possible

creation of a new label that could be similar to the Maître-Restaurateur status in France, and would set out higher requirements for restaurants with verification done by accredited inspection bodies.” As a base, the principality’s future rankings’ criteria are: cuisine prepared in-house, menu composition, qualified waiting staff, quality of service, and the restaurant’s reputation. The new system is likely to be launched in 2019. 

sTars & oTher sYmbols A guide to the Michelin system hat is on the plate is all that matters when it comes to winning a Michelin star (or more). Inspectors look right past decorative table setting, flowers and other ‘fuss’ to focus on their five essential criteria: the quality of ingredients, mastery of flavour and cooking techniques, the presence of the chef’s personality in their cuisine, value for money, and consistency between visits. Whether or not you get good service, the attitude of the waiter is irrelevant to a Michelin inspector even if it leaves a bad taste in your mouth. One star defines a restaurant as being ‘very good in its category’, two stands for ‘excellent cooking that’s worth a detour’ and the pinnacle of three stars means that an establishment offers ‘exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey’. The gourmet Michelin Guide as we know it dates back to 1920, when it was conceived by Clermont-Ferrand brothers André and édouard Mi-

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chelin as a way of encouraging motorists to travel more in their cars. Early inclusions of the little red book were travel maps, information on how to change a tyre and other driving-related issues, directions to petrol stations, lists of hotels and restaurant tips. By 1930s, the three-star tier ranking system has been established. The guide grew in popularity and the brother recruited a number of inspectors to visit and review France’s restaurants. To control and maintain the integrity of the guide, stars are awarded following several visits by different inspectors: “[Awards] are never just the result of one person’s judgement; they are formed by a collective decision, which is the result of a long process,” say officials. “Our inspectors are real experts in the catering and hospitality industries… but are above all customers like any other.” As such, visits are conducted anonymously.

In addition to the stars, keen gourmands may have noticed a few other Michelin symbols adorning the plaques of restaurants. A vistastyle symbol denotes a ‘magnificent view’ while a bunch of grapes, cocktail glasses or sake set indicates a ‘notable’ in-house selection. But there is far more to the guide than stars and other symbols. Since 1955, the Bib Gourmand category has promoted restaurants offering high quality food for moderate prices (a three-course menu for under €37.5). There are around 40 in the south of France, including: Fine Gueule and La Merenda in Nice, Café de la Fontaine in La Turbie, Bistro du Clos in Le Rouret, L'Amandier in Mougins, Bistrot des Anges in Le Cannet, Le Bistrot de l'Oasis in Mandelieu-La Napoule, and Bello Visto and La Verdoyante in Gassin. If you’re looking for somewhere new to try this summer, we recommend you start with one of these! 

riviera

Where The soul of The souTh Thrives

Idyllic Provence lives on at the Mas de Pierre By PETRA HALL

The restaurant of this luxurious address hosts an evening garden party with BBQ & live music every Thursday.

GOURMET

building. Today that site houses the Junior and Prestige suites. Since that time, six more properties have been added in keeping with the same style, but with a more contemporary touch. In total, there are 45 rooms, suites and apartments with various balconies and terraces that were all restored in 2017. the chef & his cuisine Emmanuel Lehrer is from Alsace, but made his way to the French Riviera via Switzerland and Dubai. He spent five years working for Michel Rostang before he retired (in his own words) to the countryside in 2009 to develop his own style at the Mas de Pierre. “I want to put the sun on the plate,” Emmanuel says. “If I was to open a restaurant in Alsace, it would be Provençal, even if you only get the true wealth of Mediterranean products here.” But he rarely cooks when at home in his native region... His mother doesn’t let him near the stove and instead spoils him with goulash, spätzle and wiener schnitzel. We taste his pissaladière with sardines in the garden; never has this onion-based dish been more enjoyed. The barley risotto with cod is also a wonderful experience. He finds real value in the local and season-driven market for fruit, vegetables, fish, meat and cheese here, and personally chooses his farmers and suppliers. Emmanuel’s ambition is to get a Michelin star, but after sampling just a few of his imaginative dishes, we have to wonder what the adjudicators of the famous guide are waiting for! With its natural setting and original menu, the Mas de Pierre is a rewarding destination to visit, especially in the summer months. If you’re yet to try it, a garden party with a BBQ, buffet and live music is held every Thursday from 7.30pm until September (€65 per person, excluding drinks). www.lemasdepierre.com

t’s 2,320 metres from Saint Paul de Vence to the five-star Mas de Pierre. No, we haven’t measured it. Rather 2320 is the property number for the exceptional domaine on Route des Serres (translation: the Street of Greenhouses). Long ago, when this area was still exclusively dedicated to horticulture, addresses were assigned according to the distance from the village. This might be a thing of the past now, but in the Mas de Pierre – a hotel consisting of seven authentic bastides – the charm of yesteryear is still present. Guests, including ourselves, can’t help but be beguiled by the place on walks through its three hectares of gardens, with the century-old olive trees, aviary, orchid house, vegetable patches and fragrant herbal paths. Two heated swimming pools (one is reserved for adults only) as well as a spa, gym and sauna add the touch of modernity expected at such an esteemed establishment. During the 19th century, the Mas de Pierre was just one

Top photo the view FroM the Mas de pierre’s charMing restaurant terrace © D.R. Right photo cheF eMManuel lehrer has Been totally seduced By the Mediterranean & its produce © D.R.

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a man of many talents JéRôME HéRAUD: THE CANTEMERLE’S CHEF & HOTEL DIRECTOR By ELSA CARPENTER

érôme Héraud wears any number of hats during his working day: a toque blanche, that of director, as a friend and confidant of his staff, and perhaps even humanitarian. He’s a rare character, and despite having only got to bed at 4am, is bright and open when we met just before lunch service at the Hôtel Cantemerle in Vence. “I don’t always work into the early hours,” he says with a husky voice that, rather from shouting in the kitchen, is more likely due to staying up chatting after he’d usually be in bed. “We had a party for the Japanese brand Shiseido last night and I like to put all my efforts into ensuring our events are a success.” The hotel in the hills has had many a highprofile guest here in recent weeks, including the owner of fellow fashion house Louis Vuitton in May. But even if there isn’t an important soirée on the agenda, the days are often long for this head chef and general director: he never runs out of tasks to do or projects to work on. Since joining the Cantemerle, which was built

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in the early 80s, in 2008, it’s been Héraud’s mission to transform the four-star establishment into the ‘hotel of tomorrow’. By his own definition, he wants it to become a place that provides a depth of experiences for its clientele that go far beyond a comfy bed for the night and good breakfast in the morning. He laughs as he explains he’s on his fourteenth version of updates, but there seems to be plenty going on as we tour the property. For one, an entirely new building will be added by spring next year – the Bastide aux Agrumes – that will serve as a space for private events such as conferences, seminars and even marriages. In addition to a generous heated outdoor pool, the 27-room hotel also has a spa suite. Héraud reveals he has plans to extend its beautifully tiled emerald indoor pool to take full advantage of its richly green and natural setting. Work won’t begin until 2019 at least; he has his hands full deciding what to do with the neighbouring château that the Cantemerle bought some years ago. In the hotel’s kitchens, the team isn’t showing any signs of fatigue after last night’s event, but it’s left its mark in other ways. Magnificent arrangements of flowers and seasonal vegetables that fill all available counter space are being delicately dismantled and separated into various crates. Some of the produce will be turned into lunch and dinner, the rest will be sent to the Red Cross to distribute. Héraud isn’t someone to tolerate waste and inconsiderateness. “Every action has importance,” he explains of his philosophy, “long-term benefits can be achieved with just a little thought.” He demonstrates this almost holistic approach in many ways, from the obvious strength of the relationships he holds with his staff members to the vegetable plot that encircles the Table du Cantemerle’s terrace. As well as growing a range of produce – inclu-

ding some kumquats you’ll find in a variety of ways on his menu – the potager provides 100% of the herbs used in the restaurant’s dishes. He’d like for more of his supply to come from the grounds, but admits: “Even in the Mediterranean, we can’t bank on the success of organic produce...” Héraud’s an intelligent man with a keen interest in food science and history. After a curious conversation about the Egyptians inventing foie gras – not something a French person is ever likely to admit, let alone a French chef – talk turns to innovation and his particular passion for the humble pain. “Bread is life,” he says simply. “Battles have been waged, won and lost over it. It was crucial to me that we focus on this product in particular, and we work with a very special organic and independent producer in Cucugnan called Les Maîtres de Mon Moulin. The founder’s an agricultural engineer who became a baker: his work is profound with understanding and respect for the grain. These values, I hope, reflect my own.” 

LA TABLE DU CANTEMERLE The restaurant is open every day for lunches and dinners except Mondays and Sunday evenings, with menus available from €27 (a two-course weekday lunch, €39 for a two-course weekend lunch and weekend meals) to €57 (for a four-course meal). Live music is laid on every Thursday evening during the summer months and a seafood buﬀet à volonté takes place every Friday from €59. For €129 from Tuesday to Friday or €149 at the weekend, enjoy a three-course lunch, access to the spa and pool and a one-hour treatment of your choice. a three-course lunch with access to the pool and spa suite is also available from €45 (Tuesday to Friday) and €65 (weekend). reservations are recommended.

www.cantemerle-hotel-vence.com

GOURMANDISES CHARME

JA R D I N S AU X H E R B E S B I O S AV E U R S

TERRASSE D’EXCEPTION

D É C O N T R AC T É

CHIC S PA

BIEN-ÊTRE

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info@hotelcantemerle.com

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a midsummer nighT’s dream New chef & status for Le Mas Candille

The ﬁrst act of the year was to welcome chef Xavier Burelle to the team. Since then, Le Mas Candille has joined the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. What’s on the menu at this ﬁve-star Mougins address for Part Two of 2018? By ELSA CARPENTER

ven for a five-star hotel, the setting of Le Mas Candille is spectacular. Minutes from Mougins’ charming old town, guests enjoy almost five hectares of immaculate grounds that lie around an 18th century farmhouse, 45 rooms and suites, and a vast panorama from the perfume city of Grasse to the dramatic mountains of the lower Alps. With two restaurants – including the Michelin-starred Le Candille, now headed by Xavier Burelle – and a renowned spa, the establishment is a veritable byword for ‘boutique hotel done well’. The hotel is run by Yorkshire-born director Mark Silver, who took over in 2002. Just recently in June, he announced that Le Mas Candille had decided to leave behind the notable Relais & Châteaux brand and instead join the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, a collection of 520 independent hotels in 80 countries. Bigger isn’t always better according to the group, which prefers to champion excellence and individuality.

Main photo BouillaBaisse inspired By Marseille © Marie-France Nelaton

Left photo new cheF xavier Burelle © Marie-France Nelaton

Right photo the terrace oF le candille © Nicolas Dubreuil

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One of Le Mas Candille’s strengths is its position between the glamour of the Côte d’Azur and the rural beauty of Provence. These two often parallel worlds are both represented in the hotel’s gastronomy. the Michelin-starred cuisine of le candille Authentic Mediterranean ingredients are honoured – even elevated – in Burelle’s cuisine at Le Candille: a bouillabaisse inspired by the chef’s memories of his time in Marseille (€32); red mullet with a traditional Provençal onion and anchovy pissaladière (€48); langoustine served in open ravioli with strawberries and fresh goat's cheese from nearby Mouans-Sartoux (€58); veal shoulder slow-cooked for 17 hours with petits pois, French black pudding and lemon confit (€98, on the Candille Discovery menu); and roast beef fillet with herbes de Provence, courgette flower stuffed with beef cheek, anchoïade and caviar from Maison Petrossian (€135, on the Signature menu). The restaurant offers an indoor dining room and al fresco option on the shaded terrace. It is open for both lunches and dinners every day throughout the summer (closed on Mondays and Tuesday from September). poolside dining at la pergola Burelle, who has worked alongside many a famous name – Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athéné and Philippe Legendre at Georges V in Paris as well as Arnaud Poette of Cap Eden Roc on the Cap d’Antibes and Michel Del Burgo of the Hôtel Negresco in Nice – showcases a more casual approach at the splendid pool-side restaurant of La Pergola. Guests can choose from two menus or go à la carte. The Menu Fraîcheur for €29 includes a glass of wine, mineral water and a salad: the quintessential Niçoise; the Mediterranean with octopus; or the Pergola with bacon and a poached egg. On the €39 menu: marinated salmon gravelax with fennel salad (€20); gazpacho (€18); heritage tomatoes with burrata and basil oil (€20); gambas à la plancha with focaccia and sauce vierge (€34); pan-fried sea bream fillet (€28); Di Gragnano linguine or casrecce with a choice of fresh sauces (€21); handmade macaroons; and strawberry and verbena soup (desserts all €12). La Pergola is open throughout the summer for lunches and dinners, with live music every Tuesday and Thursday. Two themed soirées will take place this summer: aquatic ballet Fluo Show on 20th July and International Cruising on 27th August. www.lemascandille.com

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À l’écouTe “an old Provençal word for a party, a feast… On a fait une sacrée gaudinade!”

Top photo sea Bass with sauce vierge © D.R. Right photo the décor inside the restaurant © D.R.

La Gaudinade By ELSA CARPENTER f you follow the main road of old town Mougins on its gentle upward curve from Gabriël Sterk's bust of Picasso on the Place des Patriotes, you will soon come to find yourself outside La Gaudinade on Rue de l’Eglise. The restaurant’s terrace, which faces the mairie, is slightly elevated from street level so is the perfect people-watching platform on sunny days. When we visit in May, however, our thoughts are firmly on the food and our attention held by charming restaurateurs Thierry and Maria de Fátima Caidominici. The couple lived in Maria’s native Portugal for 25 years – their children grew up there and both still have a clear affection for the country – before moving back to the south of France in 2005. Prior to buying the restaurant five years ago this July, La Gaudinade was known as the Edmond and was a place popular with the international expat community. Today that clientele remains: “At least 60% of our clients are foreigners,” says Maria. The husband and wife team runs the restaurant with professionalism and passion, but prior to 2013, had virtually no experience in the restaurant business. “Blame my mother,” laughs Thierry. Having grown up in nearby Pégomas eating good food made with quality ingredients, he says he was dissatisfied with many of the restaurants in the area and decided that he could ‘do better’. “Nothing comes out of the kitchen that I haven’t

GOURMET

personally approved,” he says before joking that guests will never ever find cinnamon in his dishes... He hates it. “We receive fresh produce every morning from our suppliers – such as our fruit and vegetables from a farm in Castellaras – so our suggestions change almost daily. I like to adapt the menu often too, but if there’s something our regulars really love, I’m à l’écoute!” Proud as he is of La Gaudinade’s ‘honest’ cuisine and chef (who knew the couple from Portugal), Thierry freely admits that his aspirations for the restaurant are modest: “There’s no pretention here. We’re not aiming for Michelin stars. Our style is méridional – of the south – but we don’t lay claim to any other labels.” The name of the restaurant is equally tied to the region he explains: “Gaudinade is an old Provençal word for a party, a feast… One would say: On a fait une sacrée gaudinade!” The carte is comfortably varied, with a range of seafood and meat dishes. Starters begin at €14 and mains are typically €18 to €24. We opt for the €31 menu: tender asparagus with a perfectly poached egg and truffle followed by sea bass with a wonderfully Mediterranean sauce vierge of herbs, olive oil, capers, lemon and tomato. Dessert is a generous lemon crumble, but Thierry can’t help himself from offering us a taste of pastéis de nata, a light pastry tart that is traditionally eaten and enjoyed in Lisbon. “We’re not trying to be the best,” he says, “but in a town like Mougins that is well-known for its gastronomy, we have to be good!” www.lagaudinade.com

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riviera

GOURMET

LEWIS LONGMAN

Originally from sleepy Suﬀolk, Lewis Longman moved to Cannes three years ago in the search of something meaningful to ﬁll the predictable void of post-graduate life. Between the ubiquitous palm trees of the sunsoaked Côte d’azur and the terraces of its numerous restaurants, he thinks he has found that something...

JulY / augusT 2018

fesTival food Truck A new menu for Château de Berne cold rain patters down on the van’s roof as Wendy in her grey apron slowly flips over a frozen patty. She squeezes an apathetic dose of mayonnaise onto a bun then hands it over to the sound of cars whizzing past. “£4.50 please, love.” It will be a familiar memory who anyone who’s pulled over on a damp and depressing motorway for a quick, over-oily snack, but today the world of food trucks is changing. In the last few years, the humble mobile café has made a sudden leap in its evolution to offer something fresh, clever and innovative. The food truck’s culinary shift has even reached the south of France and the beautiful vineyard of Château de Berne in Lorgues. In May, the renowned winemaker hosted the Festival Food Truck at its award-winning property. Considering it is home to Michelin star restaurant Le Jardin de Benjamin, it was quite a sight to see a collection of trucks and vans parked in the grounds, but the rosé flowed in abundance and it turned out to be the perfect place in which to sample this popular foodie

trend. Gourmet burgers, fresh and handmade pasta, Asian soups and... Beaver tails?! The eclectic event had an impressive array of food on offer; a diverse menu owing to the numerous food trucks. There were just over a dozen in total and the regeneration of the food truck was plain to see. Gone were the drab and dated vehicles serving up greasy fish and chips or beige burgers. In their place were renovated vintage wagons and quirky rigs bursting with colours and glorious smells. Visitors were asked to vote on them at the end of the day. One red trailer, Tita from Aix-en-Provence, served ‘not only falafel’ as its slogan states, but also schnitzel, hummus, and pita sandwiches. Queues de Castors, which translates to ‘beaver tails’, was cooking up Québecois cuisine. We were unexpectedly drawn to a delicacy called poutine, which is basically cheesy chips soaked in gravy. It is the sort of snack you would expect from a bowling alley in Great Yarmouth, but was surprisingly tasty. The truck’s famous tails (which thankfully do not belong to any type of furry mammal) were great: essentially donuts squished flat into the shape of – you guessed it – a beaver tail then topped with whatever takes your fancy. The cinnamon and lemon topping was ‘damn good’. With the spring sun setting behind the rolling vineyards, the organisers took to a podium in the middle of the pond to announce which bistro on wheels was the public favourite. Fresh pasta with a variety of sauces from the Lou Patois food truck won the visitors’ vote. Château de Berne’s festival represented just a small contingent of an ever-growing trend. An abundance of trucks are popping up along the French Riviera where they cater to weddings and many other parties, events and roadsides. Next time you drive past one, pull over. You may be pleasantly surprised.  The next edition of Festival Food Truck will be taking place on 14th October at Château de Berne. Entry is free!

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geTTing going WiTh pura vida hile it may seem that new and exciting food trucks are increasingly ubiquitous, being able to navigate through the incessant red tape and actually start the venture is rather hard work. Friends Aude Declerq and Alexandra Weitten have been working relentlessly to put the wheels in motion for their new business, Pura Vida. From their 1980 Renault Estafette, the duo will be serving up Buddha Bowls, which Aude describes as ‘a nourishing meal that's just a little bit of everything: a mix of grains, a smattering of protein, and an assortment of vegetables’. Unlike most food trucks, Pura Vida will be serving up exclusively cold

dishes: “All our ingredients will be fresh, local and organic wherever possible.” While Pura Vida opened its doors – or is that windows? – on 6th June in Antibes’ Port Vauban, the journey to get there was anything but smooth. “The French administration is quite difficult,” says Aude, with a telling emphasis on ‘quite’. “They need documents for everything: car registration, food hygiene, alcohol licence and much more.” The pair also had to attend a week of training to earn their selfemployed status. “We had to cancel events,” she laments. “Everything took so long!” But despite the exasperating experience to get Pura Vida on the road, the concept of healthy and

fresh food on the move seems to be going down well. “We have been lucky so far,” says Aude. “Bookings are filling up quickly for private events and weddings, and we went to the

Vintage Festival in La Colle sur Loup in mid-June.” The great adventure has begun. You can follow Pura Vida via Facebook @puravidacafefoodtruck!

Top picks Name: ramen Ta faim Location: carros, biot & sophia Good for: ramen Since June 2017, two self-declared Manga and Japanese food enthusiasts, Magali and Christophe, have been serving up their signature ramen to customers across the Côte d’Azur. Ramen is a simple yet exciting dish with a big scope for variation. Add tofu, freshly battered prawns, pork gyozas, bamboo shoots... Whatever piques your interest! Ramen Ta Faim (a play on words of ‘Bring your hunger’ in French) isn’t just a food truck, it is an Asian pick-n-mix for adults!

Name: l’ardoise des frères Toqués Location: cannes Good for: pulled pork sandwiches Yannick and Sébastien started their food truck in April 2013 and have been serving up mouth-watering grub ever since. Having spent 12 years as a chef in the USA (even becoming a citizen), Sébastien certainly has experience when it comes to All American cuisine. The brothers’ menu – Yannick is also a former chef – encompasses a wide range of burgers (Roquefort, Mexican, barbecue ribs...) as well as tortillas and quesadillas. The standout performer, however, is the melt-inthe-mouth pulled pork sandwich that is served with roasted red peppers.

Name: les farcis de sophie Location: antibes Good for: stuffed vegetables Powered by solar panels and selling Niçoise cuisine, Les Farcis de Sophie is a food truck like no other. Open for nearly two years, Sophie is insistent on not selling snacks, but authentic Provençale food. That said, Les Farcis de Sophie is not restricted to the traditional and has actually re-invented this style of food. The tartiflette, Italian and even the Oriental farcis are just some of the popular dishes available, each stuffed full with flavour and originality.

JulY / augusT 2018

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lunch aT la langousTe Sophisticated Mediterranean cuisine By ELSA CARPENTER

Top photo nice-Born head cheF séBastien lopeZ © D.R. Right photo the elegant veranda © D.R.

LA LANGOUSTE La Langouste is open every day, all year round except Sunday for lunches & dinners. The restaurant can be entirely or partially privatised for events. 7 avenue Georges Clemenceau, Nice

JulY / augusT 2018

he gourmet food scene in Nice is perhaps the most exciting on the Côte d’Azur. No longer can restaurants rely on a historic name or excellent address to get guests through their doors (although many great examples still remain). The city is being opened up for opportunity, and the owners of La Langouste saw just that when this vast restaurant space became available little over two years ago. True, it owns a prime location mere minutes from Place Masséna and even less from the shops of Jean Médécin, but is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre on the peaceful Avenue Georges Clemenceau. In addition to the stylish main dining room, there is also a light-filled veranda that can be privatised for events of up to 30 people and an enclosed garden area. “We can manage 70 covers inside and 70 outside simultaneously,” explains Sébastien Lopez, La Langouste’s young head chef, who joined the energetic team in September 2017. “That’s one of the reasons that we aren’t focusing on getting a Michelin star just yet. We’d need a whole extra team to handle it!” The high level of service is immediately noticeable. It’s clearly not something La Langouste is willing to sacrifice to get ahead. Even if it was to, the restaurant hardly seems to need the extra renown that an étoile could bring. When we visit in early June, the weather is uncharacteristically

poor and the streets of central Nice are near empty. But behind the elegant grey entrance, La Langouste is brimming with activity. Almost all of the tables are taken so we are thrilled to find we’ve been seated in a prime position on the veranda. Sébastien, like much of the staff, is a proud Niçois who has remained in the region throughout his career. Preferring to stay close to his roots – rather than travel to Paris, London or still further afield like many budding chefs – has allowed him to work with some of the region’s most accomplished culinary personalities, such as Philippe Joannès, the current executive chef of the Fairmont Monte Carlo, and Alain Llorca. He has come into his own at La Langouste: “I’m largely free to do what I want.” a sophisticated Mediterranean menu Langoustes are, of course, a principal part of the restaurant’s proposition and can be handpicked from the tank in the main room that the impressive creatures share with lobsters. Sébastien prefers the restaurant’s name sake – “The flesh is more subtle and refined...” – which is available from €119. The seafood comes grilled, served with linguine and sautéed vegetables, and in two sizes to be enjoyed by one or between two. The most popular choice during the daytime is the generous lunch menu: an entrée and main (or main and dessert) for €19 or €24 for the very affordable three course carte. We choose a mushroom velouté with hazelnut oil, seabream with crushed dill potatoes and butter infused with orange blossom, and strawberry biscuit with lemony cream. Other options include a sardine pissaladière, lamb cutlets with herby semolina and thyme jus, and a melon gazpacho. The menu changes daily. The menu has equally seductive dishes: an artichoke salad with fresh parmesan and citron oil (€16); foie gras terrine, port jelly and homemade bread (€19); John Dory with black venere rice and champagne emulsion (€30); octopus, soft potato, artichokes and smoked bacon powder (€25); creamy risotto and scallops (€30); rack of lamb in a dried fruits crust, semolina and spices (€32); and beef tagliata, button mushrooms and parmesan shavings (€24). Sébastien’s cuisine is varied and inclusive. There are several vegetarian plats and he’s not a chef to shy away from gluten-free diners. For him, it is about providing pleasure for each and every guest. www.lalangouste.fr

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les amuse-bouches New addresses & recommended restaurants on the Côte d’Azur

l’aTelier t his ‘workshop’ in the heart of Nice, chef Stéphane Chenneveau crafts an imaginative and creative cuisine before his guests in the open kitchen. Although the menu includes a fine array of classic French bistro dishes – bouillabaisse, braised beef ravioli, pigeon with foie gras and grilled fillets of fresh fish – its speciality lies in the socca revisitée. For €16, discover this Niçois favourite in a whole new (almost pizza-like) way with a range of toppings: bresaola and mozzarella di buffala; lightly fried veal tartare; red mullet, fennel and clams; octopus with a fried egg; burrata and truffle gouda; cuttlefish and prawns... If you’re a fan of the chickpea dish then you’re truly in for a treat. The self-styled res-

essTra taurant à vin manages 25 covers inside as well as a number of tables outside on the terrace. L’Atelier (17 Rue Gioffredo, Nice) serves lunches and dinners every day except Mondays and Sundays. www.l-atelier-restaurant-nice.com

he motto at Esstra in Nice is simple: only extraordinary organic products from the ProvenceAlpes-Côte d’Azur are welcome here. Couple Alexandra Adlerkreuz and Mathieu Pomero – one a trained gemmologist and the other a former nurse turned chef – know the exact origins of all that goes before their guests, be it the vegetables, wine, meat, fish or pasta. Although their free time is limited (the restaurant opened a year ago and is often fully booked) they still like to visit their producers across the south of France on their motorbike. Provenance is everything. The menu is constantly changing, but always consists of two starters, two mains and two desserts. A sample of the early summer offering: beetroot gazpacho with coriander and mint (€6); oysters from the Camargue (€7.50); lamb ragout (€8.50); and a salad printanière (€6). Esstra (22 Avenue du Maréchal Foch, Nice) is open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10am to 8pm, and from 10am to 11pm on Thursdays and Fridays. www.esstra.bio

Their creations are deliciously decadent: handmade cones and specially crafted ice creams and sorbets that feature an exceptional range of products. Expect fresh ingredients like bountiful strawberries, crunchy carrots, locally grown lemons and melons as well as Tahitian vanilla, Michel Cluizel 85% chocolate and pistachios from Iran. You might have already seen the name Néron Glacier around... The couple has spent the last few months touring private events and parties in the south of France with their exquisite ice cream cart in tow – including at Riviera Press’ soirées at Le Mas Candille in Mougins and the Observatoire de Nice! 

néron glacier fter the Ritz and Fauchon in Paris as well as working under Pierre Gagnaire at the Sketch in London as his pastry chef, new opportunities were calling Louis Dubois. Following a successful restaurant venture on Rue Delille in Nice – Pastry Pleasures – the pâtissier extraordinaire and his partner, Aurore Parrant, have now opened a unique concept in the heart of the old town. From the start of July, Néron Glacier can be founded on the well-frequented Place Saint François.

PROVENÇAL & HOMEMADE CUISINE Fresh local products of the season

7-9 RUE DE L’EGLISE 06250 MOUGINS TÉL.+33(0) 4 92 98 07 83 PORT.+33(0) 6 08 11 61 88

JulY / augusT 2018

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GOURMET

la chèvre d'or erched high above the sea, the five-star La Chèvre d'Or in Eze offers several restaurants worth a visit. For lunches there is Les Remparts with its unbelievable coastal view. By night, guests can choose between Le Stagioni (newly opened in the spring and serving an Italian cuisine with menus from €98) or the incomparable La Chèvre d'Or with its two Michelin stars. Both restaurants have floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea and Cap Ferrat below. www.chevredor.com

ac marrioTT hoTel urely one of Nice’s most beautiful rooftops, the AC Marriott Hotel has launched a new Parisian concept this summer: Farago on the Roof. New furniture and décor has been installed around the sky-high pool as well as a gin bar and delicious tapas menu. Open every day from 12pm to 10.30pm.  www.faragoontheroof.com

baY sTar café he fresh and inventive cuisine of this seafront establishment in Saint Laurent du Var is ideal for relaxed lunches or evenings with friends. Chef Anthony Martel and his team have combined their creativity and originality to produce a colourful menu. It suits the contemporary setting of the restaurant, which has styled itself as a modern French bistro with quality wine bar and welcoming atmosphere. Highly recommended is the chef’s daily suggestion – freshly caught fish and seafood from the fishermen of Cros de Cagnes or produce from the local market – as well as the formule tapas as an entrée or accompaniment to an aperitif enjoyed with your toes in the sand! When it comes to wine, the Bay Star Café offers a varied choice of AOC and Grand Crus. If you’re a fan of dining on the beach, then this is one address to keep in mind during the summer: excellent views, a warm vibe, attentive service, seasonal produce, and a great price-to-quality ratio! The Bay Star Café (167 Promenade des Flots Bleus, Saint Laurent du Var) is open every day of the year at lunch and in the evening until midnight. www.baystarcafe-restaurant.com

JulY / augusT 2018

riviera

la réserve de beaulieu

hoTel roYal riviera

e had a promising career as a footballer ahead of him when, at 16, Yannick Franques decided he was going to become a chef! He recently joined La Réserve de Beaulieu at the express request of Jean-Claude Delion, the owner of this five-star hotel and spa, having worked at some of the region’s most prestigious addresses (Mirabeau in Monaco and Château Saint-Martin in Vence and Terre Blanche in the Var). Franques’ menu focuses largely on produce from Mediterranean – fish, seafood and the very best olive oil – and menus are available from €105. The two men are now working together to recapture the Restaurant des Rois’ two Michelin stars. It won’t be long before the name of this stunning establishment is once again honoured in culinary circles... The restaurant is open from 7.30pm to 9.30pm every evening and a smart-casual dress code is in place: absolutely no flipflops! www.reservebeaulieu.com

Bordering VERDON in GREOUX LES BAINS

GOURMET

new setting, a new experience! The Jasmin Grill & Lounge, with its classical Riviera view of the Baie des Fourmis and Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, has opened for summer with a brand new à la carte menu (every day from 12.30pm to 7pm) and tapas experience (7pm to 10pm). Expect: healthy Buddha bowls from €24; dishes from the onsite tandoori oven; and a tempting selection of the fresh fish and international meats. For lovers of live music, DJ Mr Jaz of Afroman Radio will be performing every Thursday from 7pm to 10pm until the end of August. www.royal-riviera.com

LANDSCAPED GARDEN WITH HEATED POOL SPA WITH BENEFICIAL TARIFFS LIGHT LUNCHTIME GASTRONOMY INSIDE OR ON THE TERRACE EVENING CUISINE AT LA TABLE DE PAULINE Av.des Thermes / 04800 Gréoux-Les-Bains Tel: 04 92 78 00 91 / villa.borghese@orange.fr www.hotel-villaborghese.com

HANDMADE ITALIAN SPECIALITIES

L’atelier

restaurant à vin

Stéphane Chenneveau Artisan chef Member of the Collège Culinaire de France 17 rue Gioﬀredo - 06000 Nice - 04 93 85 50 74 - 06 67 54 30 10

EXTENSIVE RANGE OF FRESH PASTA WARM & WELCOMING SERVICE OPEN FOR LUNCHES & DINNERS Less than a minute from the Princely Palace of Monaco With an outdoor setting on Piaceta François Bosio

Restaurant Le Pinocchio • Tel. +377 93 30 96 20 30 Rue Comte Felix Gastaldi • 98000 Monaco JulY / augusT 2018

riviera

beaches

pavillon bleu A third of all rated ports found in the south

cross France, just shy of 400 beaches in 186 communes have been awarded a Blue Flag or Pavillon Bleu for 2018. The Alpes-Maritimes has lost five beaches from the scheme (Bijou in Cannes, Pont Dulys, Garoupe Ouest, Grande Plage Juan-lesPins and Gallice in Antibes, and Mala in Cap d'Ail), but added one: Carras in Nice. The Var has remained stable with 45. 107 French ports (29 of which can be found in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region) have also received certification. Efforts to efficiently monitor certiFied Beach on ile and manage water consumption in one of the newly the saint Marguerite accredited yachting sites, Port de Bouc to the west © Mairie de CannesAxis Drone of Marseille, have been highlighted by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) that has been responsible for the Blue Flag initiative for over 30 years. The health and status of the marina’s 26 water meters are independently checked each evening, allowing management to intervene within a reasonable timeframe if there is a problem, such as with the sluice systems or a leak, and thus limit wastage. Further along the Mediterranean coast in the Gard département, the Port Camargue du Grau-du-Roi provides boats with free access to waste water collection (grey and black) via a pump system and a barge. This eco-friendly vessel also scoops out manmade pollutants from the harbour, such as plastic bags and bottles.

BEACHES IN THE ALPES-MARITIMES antibes: Antibes-les-Pins Est, Antibesles-Pins Ouest, Fontonne Est, Fontonne Ouest, Fort Carré, La Salis, Les Groules, Marineland | cannes: Chantiers navals, Font de Veyre, Gare Marchandises, Gazagnaire, Ile Sainte Marguerite Est, Ile Sainte Marguerite Ouest, Midi, Moure Rouge, Riou/Plage de la Nadine, Rochers de la Bocca, Saint Georges, Sud Aviation, Trou/Roubine | cap d’ail: Pissarelles | mandelieu-la napoule: Plage du Sable d’Or | nice: Carras, Centenaire, Coco Beach, Magnan, Saint Hélène

BEACHES IN THE VAR hyères: Almanarre Nord, Ceinturon Est, La Bergerie, Port Pothuau | la croixvalmer: Gigaro, La Douane | la londe-les-maures : L’Argentière, Miramar, Tamaris | la-seyne-sur-mer: Sablettes Centre, Sablette Est | le lavandou: Aiguebelle, Anglade, Cavalière, la Fossette, Lavandou ville, Pramousquier, Saint Clair | le pradet: La Garonne, Le Monaco, Le Pin de Galle, Les Bonnettes, Les Oursinières | rayolcanadel-sur-mer: Plage Canadel, Plage Pramousquier Est, Plage Rayol | saint-cyr-sur-mer: Les Lecques JulY / augusT 2018

Saint-Come Ouest | Saint-Mandrier-surMer: La Coudoulière, La Vieille, Saint-Asile, Touring Club, Le Canon | sainte-maxime: Plage du centre-ville, Plage Garonnette, Plage La Croisette, Plage La Nartelle | six-fours-lesplages: Bonnegrace Anse B, Bonnegrace Anse D, La Coudoulière, Les Roches Brunes, Plage du Cros | Toulon: Anse Mistral, Les Pins Centre, Lido, Source Ouest

PORTS IN THE ALPES-MARITIMES Port de La Napoule | Port Pierre Canto | Port Camille Rayon | Port Vauban | Port de Plaisance

bandiera blu Liguria again Italy’s undisputed winner With a total of 64 environmental Blue Flags, the FEE has crowned Liguria the king of Clean Beaches in Italy. Since 1987, the famous flags have been hoisted on beaches where certain environmental and eco-friendly as well as waste management and public safety conditions have been met. The campaign covers beaches, marinas and lakes. Following Liguria in 2018 is the Tuscan region and – surprise, surprise – Campania in southwestern Italy.

BEACHES IN THE PROVINCE OF IMPERIA bordighera: Capo Sant’Ampelio | Taggia: Arma di Taggia | santo stefano al mare: Baia Azzurra, Il Vascello | san lorenzo al mare: U Nostromu - Prima Punta, Baia delle Vele

BEACHES IN THE PROVINCE OF GENOA camogli: Camogli Centro – Levante, San Fruttuoso | santa margherita ligure: Scogliera Pagana, Punta Pedale, Paraggi, Milite Ignoto | chiavari: Gli Scogli | lavagna: Lungomare | moneglia: Centrale, La Secca, Levante

BEACHES IN THE PROVINCE OF LA SPEZIA framura: Fornaci | bonassola: East, West | levanto: Ghiararo, Spiaggia Est La Pietra | lerici: Venere Azzurra, Lido, San Giorgio, Eco del Mare, Fiascherino, Baia Blu, Colombo | ameglia: Fiumaretta

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liguria

riviera

from Jungle To organic oasis Biodynamic agriculture at La Rutabaga

s it so often happens, it only takes one moment to change a life. Couple katrin Mamberto, an interior designer, and experienced construction developer Paolo Frea had been looking for a piece of land on which to build their dream home for some time, but sites were either way beyond their means or deep in the Ligurian hinterland, up to 30 kilometres from the coast. One day in 2014, while walking their dogs in the near forgotten Bottassano Valley, which is nestled between the towns of Finale Ligure, Borgio Verezzi and Tovo San Giacomo, they spotted a sign scrawled with the word VENDESI (translation: for sale). The plot was barely visible, hidden in amongst the shrubs, as if the owner would rather keep it. katrin and Paolo were curious. They called the number and a few days later, the owners showed them the land in all its unkempt glory. It was totally overgrown and had been untouched for decades by humankind, but the couple was enchanted. “It was like immersing ourselves in another world,” they recall today. Caught up in the raw beauty of the site, they didn’t immediately see the gorgeous, pastel-coloured house in the background. With bated breath they asked, “And that?” “Oh, that’s a part of it too,” came the answer, as if the property was nothing more than an annoying appendage. For katrin and Paolo, fate was sealed. They fell madly in love with the jungle just minutes from the sea. That was the moment. There were other interested parties, but the proprietor,

liguria

The italian farmers' organisation Coldiretti calls it an ‘epochal change’ in society that has not taken place since the 19th century. in the year 2016/17, almost 30,000 people submitted an application to become farmers in italy. Two among them, Katrin Mamberto and Paolo Frea, share their story with riviera insider. By PETRA HALL

 Photo 1

BeFore: this is how the property in Bottassano valley looked when katrin and paolo First discovered it © D.R.  Photo 2

aFter: Following Four years oF hard work, they have created an oasis just a Few Minutes FroM the sea © D.R.

whose aunt had owned the nearly three-hectare paradise, was keen that it went to loving hands. Owner Maria* had spent her childhood here and had watched her aunt pack a donkey-pulled cart high with fragrant peaches for sale at the market. So it was for emotional reasons that katrin and Paolo were awarded the sale. The designer and developer were in seventh heaven, but reality would soon catch up. They had to get the funding together, with help from family and friends, before the sale was notarised after many hurdles. One such complication was waiting to see if any of the 18 people whose land bordered theirs would enact their presale rights. The main building had been built in 1930 and was solid, the roof good and walls dry, but there were obvious renovations to do. It wasn’t connected to either water or electrical mains. The couple had originally thought of starting a bed and breakfast (the idea of organic farming would come later) so the ivy-strewn barn they also discovered on the plot would be ideal for holiday rentals. Over time, the concept of biodynamic agriculture at La Rutabaga – the name of their new home – began to develop. With little to no experience in biodynamics, a rigorous form of organic agriculture rooted in the work of Austrian philosopher and educator Rudolf Steiner, katrin and Paolo contacted Piedmont-based agriculturalist Patrizio Michelis. When Michelis visited La Rutabaga for the first time, he told the two enthusiastically, “This land is so pristine and full of positive energy! It’s as if it was made for biodynamic cultivation... It would be a shame not to take advantage of this opportunity.” JulY / augusT 2018

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They set about learning the basics of biodynamics, which remains a niche type of farming in Liguria and is poorly represented among the agricultural community. One of their first tasks was to resolve the water problem. A dowser (someone who uses a divining rod to find underground water) located a spot where they could drill. Following a lengthy and costly process, laboratory tests confirmed that good quality water could be found at a depth of 54 metres. It wasn’t until 2017 that Paolo was finally able to free the plot of its jungle state and expose centuries-old dry stone walls and terraces. Heavily scented lilac, sun-yellow mimosa, violet, thyme and rosemary settled in the place of the brambles. Vegetable beds were created, an irrigation system installed and an electric fence erected around much of the estate in an attempt to keep the deer out (not always possible as they can jump up to two metres). The organic oasis soon attracted the attention of other animals, among them rare eagles and birds of prey. Then they had to sow and plant seeds, always according to the rules of biodynamics and respecting the laws of nature. Pesticides and artificial fertilisers are frowned JulY / augusT 2018

 Photo 3 Bold new FarMers: katrin & paolo © D.R.  Photo 4

growing BiodynaMic vegetaBles in style © D.R.

upon so they use the manure produced by organicallyraised animals. For katrin and Paolo, it seemed like a miracle. Suddenly an array of fruit and vegetables burst out of the soil: carrots, potatoes, parsley, melons, courgettes, tomatoes, aubergines, beans, peppers... All the Mediterranean produce under the sun thrived in the altitude of La Rutabaga. Last summer, they harvested a staggering 4,500 kilos. It was as if the earth they had awakened wanted to honour them. Thanks to social media, the news that biodynamically grown produce was available in Bottasano spread like wildfire. Health-conscious customers came from far away and restaurants, organic stores and hotels were also interested. In her crates of vegetables, katrin was able to express her creativity. Lain with tulle or adorned with a ribbon, her lovingly added extras are well-removed from the anonymity of vegetables bought in the supermarket. So how can the government better support newcomer farmers such as themselves? “Less bureaucracy and subsidies as an incentive to re-

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 Photo

the view to the neighBours’ property © D.R.

“THIS LAND IS SO PRISTINE AND FULL OF POSITIVE ENERGY! IT’S AS IF IT WAS MADE FOR BIODYNAMIC CULTIVATION.”

claim abandoned land,” is their suggestion. They have both experienced this change in their way of life differently. katrin loves the sowing of seeds and watches her tender plants sprouting: “It’s always a wonder to see, each has its own rhythm.” For Paolo, it is the cycle of nature that impresses him the most and he feels a need to protect and preserve this piece of land. Both, however, have had to address the frustrations of following Mother Nature’s rules. If the weather isn’t on your side, then little can be done. Soon the renovations to their home and barn will be complete. The couple hope to organise special holiday rentals with organic breakfasts and picnics, aperitifs out in the fields and small events with live music under the stars. They also plan to plant a fruit and herb garden as well as a botanical path. It’s a life’s work that requires plenty of love, dedication and self-belief. Good luck, you two! www.larutabaga.it

BACK TO EARTH Not since the two industrial revolutions of the 19th century has italy’s agricultural industry seen such social change. 61% of the approximately 30,000 people who want to become self-employed as farmers live in the south, the rest in the north of the country, according to the Coldiretti farmer’s association and its recent study, Ritorno alla Terra (Back to earth). Coldiretti President roberto Moncalvo says, “The farming profession has regained prestige and is regarded as promising and attractive for a welleducated generation with the will to roll up their sleeves. We are dealing with an epochal event.” Sicily, with 4,700 applicants, is the region at the top of the budding young farmers’ movement. Liguria has 445. One of the major hurdles is the high price for fertile, farming land. The average cost for one hectare is around €40,000. in Liguria, it is €108,000 – the highest in europe. added to this is the extremely convoluted italian bureaucracy. instead of promoting budding farmers, there are hurdles every step of the way. according to Coldiretti, a farmer is engaged in administrative tasks for a hundred days of the year. For organic and biodynamic cultivation, it gets even more complicated. Those who wish to beneﬁt from eU funds should probably think of hiring an expert, which is virtually impossible considering the ﬁnancial struggles faced by so many young farmers.

*Name changed for privacy JulY / augusT 2018

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JulY / augusT 2018

MENTON, RIVIERA & MERVEILLES

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MENTON, RIVIERA & MERVEILLES

mer & monTagne Communes in the east of the Alpes-Maritimes unite By ELSA CARPENTER

ollowing the enactment of the Loi NOTre (Nouvelle Organisation Territoriale de la République), in the summer of 2015, a whole raft of powers was decentralised from the French state and transferred to its départements. Among these new responsibilities was the possibility for communes in a geographical area to unite under one banner – an intercommunalité or cooperation between municipalities – such as the Pays de Grasse for the towns that surround the famous perfume city, the wider Communauté d'Agglomération de Sophia Antipolis that tracks back from Antibes to the technology hub and beyond or the Métropole Nice Côte d'Azur. At the start of 2017, 15 communes* in the east of the Alpes-Maritimes came together as Menton, Riviera & Merveilles. “Menton is, of course, the motor of the machine,” says Pierre Dabout, the general director of the Menton, Riviera & Merveilles tourism office. “It’s the biggest of all the communes with around 30,000 inhabitants (compared to a combined 42,000 in the other towns) and by far the strongest tourism industry.” According to 2017 statistics, Brits represent 16% of hotel guests in the city, coming second only to the French in terms of numbers (59%). In third place are the Italians, followed by German tourists and then Americans. “Anglophones in particular have close ties with Menton,” he says, “and our special micro-climate that first attracted European ‘high society’ here over a century ago continues to be a draw.” Perhaps the most touted fact about Menton is its unusually old population: more centenarians live here than anywhere else in France. “Our city is calmer and in many ways offers more serenity than the other large cities on the Côte d’Azur,” Dabout continues. “After Nice, Cannes and Antibes, Menton is often viewed as the fourth city of the French Riviera and I would say that the tourists who come here have a special affinity with the place. They haven’t ended up in Menton par hasard...” He describes the Menton, Riviera & Merveilles target audience as a ‘niche clientele’, arguing that rather than aim to attract masses of people to the area purely in the name of profit, he wants to establish the public image of a destination de qualité. “We hold all the cards in our hands. No matter how long they have been coming here, there is a great number of tourists who still don’t know about the beauty and di-

Menton: the headquarters oF the new tourisM Bureau © SF JulY / augusT 2018

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First photo the hilltop town oF sainte agnes © D.R. Second photo the trophée d’auguste in la turBie © D.R. Third photo saorge in the roya valley © D.R.

versity of our mountain communes,” says the tourism director, who moved to Menton in July last year from a post as Directeur de l'Agence de Développement Touristique his native Alpes de Haute-Provence. “We want to make discovering these amazing places much easier for them.” But with barely a thousand people living in some of the towns, such as Gorbio and Sainte Agnès, are these rural resorts even equipped to welcome more visitors? “We do have to look at the hospitality sector,” admits Dabout. “For example, there are no luxury five-star hotels in our mountains (although two new projects are underway on the coast: a new site in Menton and the redevelopment of Vista Palace in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin) and even camp sites are few and far between. The biggest hotel is a three-star in Castérino to the west of Tende.” Getting people into the mountains should, at least, be easier now. After several months of works on the Train des Merveilles track, the rail link will fully reopen this summer. The train departs from Nice and travels via villages including Peille and L'Escarène before reaching the Menton, Riviera & Merveilles ‘border’ at Sospel. From there, the route continues north through stunning valJulY / augusT 2018

“THE COAST AND OUR BEACHES ARE ALWAYS GOING TO BE POPULAR, BUT WHY NOT ALSO THE VALLéE DES MERVEILLES AND PROVINCIAL TOWNS?”

leys and along cliff edges to Tende. Connections are also available on the Ventimiglia-Cuneo line. “We need to establish better links between mer et montagne,” says Dabout, “so that our visitors can better experience the region. The coast and our beaches are always going to be popular, but why not also the Vallée des Merveilles and provincial towns?” Each of the municipalities involved in the new communauté d'agglomération is very different, but Dabout is keen to point out their shared history and similarities. “There is the Genoese-Grimaldi link, a part of the region’s heritage that gave rise to the many fortifications of the area,” he explains of former rulers and kingdoms in the east of the Alpes-Maritimes. “The Baroque era has also had a marked impact on its architecture and culture; there are some beautiful sites to be discovered. Sport is a common theme too with a whole range of activities – canyoning in Breil-sur-Roya, which has some of the best canyons in the Europe, cycling, hiking... And we can’t forget agriculture! People have been growing lemons and olives, for example, for thousands of years in these lands and we continue to celebrate these products today with events such as the famous Fête du Citron in Menton. Finally there are the many incredible gardens that will inspire botanists and the average visitor alike, from the Maria Serena, Val Rahmeh and Fontana Rosa on the coast to the magnificent Monastère de Saorge in the north.” The area has within it numerous important historical sites, such as the Trophée d'Auguste in La Turbie that was built in 6BC to celebrate Roman Emperor Augustus’ victory over the Alpine tribes. Two UNESCO applications have been submitted for the region: one for the historically and geologically important Vallée des Merveilles and another (accepted to the World Heritage List) for Le Corbusier’s Cabanon in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Other ongoing projects include the building of eco-friendly hikers’ refuges in the Castérino area and the development of electric-powered 4X4 excursions. Considering the complex refugee crisis on the FrancoItalian border, Menton has done well to protect its positive image in the press. “Despite what the newspapers say about people crossing over into Menton, we’ve been no more affected than any of France’s other cities,” says Dabout. “Tourism is up and we are feeling very positive about the future as the new entity. Physically there have been almost no changes – we still have the same people in the same towns in the same roles – but what’s different is the way we function and the way we think about promoting tourism in this area. The creation of Menton, Riviera & Merveilles aimed to unite our strengths – be it in action sports, history or, in the case of Menton, great beaches and city life – and to bring the communes closer together. There shouldn’t be any fears about sites losing their unique identities: these are what we want to protect, promote and enhance.”  * Menton (headquarters), Beausoleil, Breil-sur-Roya, La Brigue, Castellar, Castillon, Fontan, Gorbio, Moulinet, Roquebrune-CapMartin, Sainte-Agnès, Saorge, Sospel, Tende & La Turbie

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A focus on

roquebrunecap-marTin By ELSA CARPENTER

uring the 10th century, the Château Grimaldi was built by a Count of Ventimiglia to protect the burgeoning community against the Saracens. The castle, which is one of France’s oldest existing battlements, still stands, as does the town’s famous olive tree. It was already more than 1,000 years old when the fortress was first erected, but is dwarfed in terms of history by the sabretooth tiger teeth and stone tools that were discovered in the town’s Vallonnet Cave. These date back one million years. For five centuries (1355-1848), the citizens of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin lived under the rule of its powerful neighbour: Monaco. All this came to an end, however, with the Italian Risorgimento or Unification. The town became a free city under the protection of the County of Savoy, but this too changed in 1860 when Roquebrune’s 210 eligible voters (the population was 886 then compared to 13,000 now) voted on whether to join France. 194 cast the ballot in favour and Roquebrune was officially purchased the following year by Napoleon III for four million francs. “If the roquebrunois had voted against [the move], we would all be Monegasque today,” says the City Council’s cultural representative, Jean-Louis Dedieu.

Top photo a view to Monaco FroM the heights oF roqueBrune-cap-Martin © D.R. Right photo the olivier Millénaire is around 2,000 years old © D.R.

The town, whose name comes from the brown rocks that surround it, nevertheless benefited from its historic affiliation with the principality. “Roquebrune developed in step with Monaco,” explains Dedieu, who also has close ties with the enclave via his many years as a clarinettist in the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra. He still conducts the Solistes de Monte-Carlo today alongside his role on the Roquebrune Council. When the Casino opened in the Carré d’Or quartier in 1866 (and the Opéra Garnier a decade later), it created untold splendour and an image of glamour for this stretch of coast that otherwise wouldn’t have existed. The transport links the principality helped provide – the extension of the railway in 1869 and the completion of the Basse Corniche between Nice and Monaco in 1881 – also had a lasting effect. “Without Monaco, Roquebrune couldn’t have become what it is today,” he summarises. At the turn of the 19th century, Roquebrune had evolved into an upper class retreat for Europe’s aristocracy and celebrities. The princes of Monaco hunted in its forests and the Grand Hôtel du Cap-Martin was finished in 1890. Danish architect Hans-Georg Tersling was the man responsible for its elegant design as well as that of the numerous private properties that sprung up on the peninsular during that period. Tersling was an acquaintance of Charles Garnier and is believed to have first come to the region at his request. The town got its name in 1911, as Dedieu explains: “Although the rumours go that it was to distinguish Roquebrune from Roquebrune-sur-Argens in the Var, the townspeople actually wanted to make a point to the population in Menton: ‘Ha! Cap Martin is ours!’” This area in particular attracted many artists and prominent people: Eileen Gray who built her still celebrated E-1027 property here; architect Le Corbusier; Romain Gary, one of France's most popular and prolific writers of the 20th century; publisher and collector Emery Reves; surrealist Salvador Dalí; singer-songwriter Jacques Brel; Empress Sisi of Austria and her husband, the Emperor Franz Joseph I; the artist Monet, who painted at least two works featuring Roquebrune... What was it that brought them here? “The peace and privacy,” Dedieu suggests. Indeed, there are so many luxury homes and estates on the Cap that the public is fairly limited in its exploration. At least there is the coastal path. Not far from Coco Chanel’s Villa La Pausa, which was recently rebought by the Chanel brand, stands Roquebrune’s most enduring resident: its Olivier Millénaire. Gabriel Hanotaux, a former French Minister of Foreign Affairs who is often accredited with developing the identity of the commune, happened across the olive tree in 1931. When he learned that the owners of the land wanted to cut it down, he was so incensed that he bought the terrain to protect the extraordinary specimen. The tree is between 1,800 and 2,200 years old and has a total circumference of 23.5 metres. It still produces the region’s famous black olives.  JulY / augusT 2018

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pelagos & The principaliTY The state of the sea Beyond the speedboats and motor yachts, the waters oﬀ the coast of Monaco are home to a rich marine ecosystem in which many thousands of dolphins, whales and tuna ﬂourish. at least they do today: 30 years ago they had all but left and by 2050, experts warn that our seas could be void of life. By ELSA CARPENTER

hat a life it must be to have the sea as your office, the helm as your desk! At 28 years of age, David Gamba is one of the lucky few to have found early on a truly fulfilling career. Working for the Yacht Club de Monaco, David splits his time between managing the organisation’s whale watching excursions and the Fédération de Pêche en Mer that he founded last year.

Monegasque by birth, David grew up in the principality, but spent many of his childhood summers in Spain, fishing off the coast of Galicia with his maternal cousins: “Fishing is one of the best ways to understand the environment and to learn how to respect the sea.” He considers himself to be lucky to live in Monaco, a nation so culturally and historically connected to the sea. The principality is also part of a large marine reserve, the 87,500km² Pelagos Sanctuary, that has been under the protection of France, Italy and Monaco for more than 15 years. It represents 3% of the Mediterranean Sea and stretches from the Giens peninsula near Hyères in the Var to the north of Sardinia and Fosso Chiarone near Tuscany on the west coast of Italy. Around 8,500 species live in its waters, which equates to between four and

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AROUND 8,500 SPECIES LIVE IN THE PELAGOS SANCTUARY WATERS, WHICH EQUATES TO BETWEEN FOUR AND 18% OF THE WORLD’S kNOWN SPECIES, EVEN THOUGH THE MED AS A WHOLE ONLY REPRESENTS 1% OF THE OCEANS’ SURFACE.

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Sperm, fin and pilot whales have all been spotted during these trips out, often 25 to 50 kilometres from the coast, but they can be seen even closer on rare occasions: “I once witnessed a whale surfacing just 600m from the port in Monaco.” Orcas have been seen in the Pelagos Sanctuary, near Cinqueterre, as well as Cuvier’s beaked whales just off Genoa, but not by David himself. Other familiar creatures include striped and bottlenose dolphins as well as sea turtles, mobular rays, a range of tuna and 75 shark species. It’s estimated that there are 30,000 striped dolphins alone in the Pelagos Sanctuary and 300,000 in the Mediterranean, making it one of the most prolific species. In 2017, David recorded 63 sightings of fin whales and 14 sperm whales. The numbers match well with population counts: Pelagos is believed to be the home of 900 fin whales, but only 300 sperm whales. He knows many of the animals well and can identify them by sight, such as Flucker, a male fin whale who is missing half of his caudal fin: “I saw him three times last year alone, but we still don’t know what happened to his fin.” His species are the second biggest whales (and animals) in the world after the blue whale. They can live for more than 100 years, grow to over 20 metres in length and often reach weights of 48 tonnes. “Unlike sperm whales, which can dive for up to two hours and go to depths of 1,00 metres, fin whales stay underwater for 20 minutes at most before they need to breathe,” explains David. While the sperm whale feeds

 Left photo

david gaMBa on his recent expedition to antarctica © D.R.

18% of the world’s known species even though the Mediterranean Sea as a whole only represents 1% of the oceans’ surface. When David told his school teachers he wanted to be a fisherman after school they were understandably sceptical. It goes without saying that it’s a dwindling industry unless you’re willing to join a fleet of commercial fishing vessels. He trained in the field of luxury hospitality before listening to his heart and pursuing his dream at the age of 21. Now a fully-fledged captain, he mans the 12-metre Narwhal, which he uses for the Yacht Club de Monaco’s whale watching excursions.

predominately on squid in the Mediterranean (it’s the largest toothed animal on earth), the fin whales searches out krill between the surface and 200 metres. “Another distinguishing feature is their blow. For sperm whales, it’s more of a cloud that comes out at 45°. The fin whale shoots upwards.” The best time to see these mammals is between May and September, as from October to April, the larger cetaceans head south to southern Italy, Greece, Malta and the North African coast. Even now, sightings are far from promised and David can’t predict what animals are out there: “I never know what I’m going to see.” He doesn’t use any hi-tech equipment to track the creatures down, preferring to rely on more traditional methods. JulY / augusT 2018

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“A fin whale needs between 300 and 1,000kg of krill a day so looking for food sources is one way,” he explains. Congregations of sea birds or even dolphins and schools of fish suggest food is in the water so I use them as an indicator. That said, you can think you’re in the middle of a dead zone, with no life or activity, then boom! There are whales and dolphins and tuna everywhere!” 28-year-old David has been working with the Pelagos Sanctuary, which has its headquarters in the principality, for around five years now so has built up a great understanding of its environment and challenges. learning from mistakes “Humans are a great source of trouble,” he admits. “So many cetacean deaths are caused by cruise liners and freighting vessels. At best, it’s two a year in the Pelagos Sanctuary, but more pessimistic figures are 20. Two of the busiest shipping routes in the Mediterranean cut through the Pelagos Sanctuary, but it would be impossible to ban all commercial shipping. We can, however, teach these boats and their crews how to be more responsible.” The data David records during his excursions is sent directly to the REPCET (Real Time Plotting of Cetaceans) software system. Once a whale or other sizeable marine animal is spotted, the user identifies it using the App and notes its exact location. That information is then sent out to commercial vessels such as ferries and tankers so that they can try to avoid a collision. “The bigger boats aren’t always able to change their course at the last minute so this information can help them prepare in other ways, such as slowing down if there are numerous animals in the water,” David explains. “Ideally, boats should never cut in front of or behind a cetacean, but travel at a parallel distance of at least 100m and a maximum speed of five knots.” Private vessels, such as yachts and scientific boats, don’t receive the live locations of the creatures so as to avoid big numbers of craft showing up and disturbing them. “Plastic is the biggest problem the sea and its inhabitants are facing,” he says sadly. “We’re in the process of suffocating – of killing even – our planet. Anyone who

says otherwise is simply uniformed.” The worst offenders? Balloons, according to David. “I thought we’d spotted a turtle on a recent trip,” he continues, “but as we approached, I realised it was a turtle-shaped balloon. The irony is all too present. We have to find a way of reducing our reliance on plastic. It’s too late to reverse the damage already done, but we need to be thinking about the future. By 2050, UN scientists have predicted that all life outside of heavily protected zones will be gone. Other experts have warned that within the next 20 years, there’ll be more plastic in the world’s oceans – in terms of weight – than fish.” David’s portrayal of the state of the sea is frank, but not cynical and he admits that there are some developments in the Pelagos Sanctuary to be optimistic about. “30 years ago, there were no tuna left in these waters,” he explains. “The fishermen had taken everything. Now we are seeing baby tuna in this part of the Mediterranean, which means they have established breeding grounds somewhere on the Ligurian coast. In 2017, I saw three fin whales calves. The mothers of these infants obviously think the water is clean enough and plentiful enough in which to raise young.” David recently returned from an expedition to the Antarctic with the Yacht Club de Monaco and says we have things to learn from the world 60° South: “You can’t throw anything overboard or put anything into the waters, and they’re pristine as a result! It should be like that everywhere.” 

WHALE WATCHING WITH THE YACHT CLUB DE MONACO  Five-hours excursions departing from the Yacht Club de Monaco 

From May to the end of September



Prices: €120 for adults, €80 for 11 to 16 years & €40 for six to 10 years



Breakfast & lunch included

 Family packages available www.yacht-club-monaco.mc

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david gaMBa tags a tuna in the pelagos sanctuary © D.R.

federaTing fishing An association of artisan & amateur anglers By ELSA CARPENTER

THE MONACO CATCH David Gamba and his friends at the Fédération are currently working on an informative guide to good fishing practises in this part of the Mediterranean. it is likely to include the strict guidelines that determine whether or not a catch can be landed or put back – live – into the sea as well as information regarding the times of year when certain species can be responsibly caught. Depending on the time of year, fishermen in the area are likely to find the following species on the end of their hook: sea bream (dorade), seabass (loup), mackerel (maquereau), red mullet (rouget), anchovies (anchois), sardines, swordfish (espadon), tuna (thon), monkfish (lotte) and sole.

When describing the principality, most young people will talk about the casinos, the cars, the yachts and the palace,” says David Gamba. “Barely anyone will mention the sea, other than it being something for the boats to float on!” For this passionate, young fisherman, it’s something of a travesty: “Somewhere along the way, we’ve lost a huge amount of our maritime heritage.” 28-year-old David grew up on the port and has fond memories of watching the ‘old boys’ fishing with their rod and line from the harbour walls. How many do that today? Not many. According to David, Monaco has just one professional fisherman left, a guy called Eric. In 2017, David and his friends founded the Fédération de Pêche en Mer for amateur and artisan fishermen and women who have respect for the sea and its bounty. Today it has around 30 members. “Over the last decade or so, fishing has been given a bad reputation as an activity that plunders the oceans and strips them bare of all fish,” he says, “but that’s simply not what proper fishing is about. A good fisherman would never take all he could catch because then there would be nothing left for the next year!” It makes perfect sense. Why are fishermen tarred

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with this brush while mass commercial and industrial fishing vessels continue to go about their work? “Lobbyists and politicians,” says David. He describes himself as someone committed to nature, its protection and nurturing: “Fishermen like myself can be on the front line, noticing if stocks of a certain fish are low or even if there are vessels in the area that are dumping waste or sewage into the sea.” Fishing is banned everywhere in the principality apart from the seawall of Port Hercules. David understands why. Monaco is small and thus stocks are limited: “There are so many grouper in Monaco that octopus numbers are falling, but if we allow the fishing of grouper, then they’ll be none of them left! Sometimes it’s best to leave nature to manage itself. As a federation, we want to share good fishing practises. To fish properly, you have to understand the fish, what it’s doing and what it’s eating. There’s a science behind it! For example, we get thousands of baby mahimahi streaming passed Monaco, but these are fish that can grow up to 15kg and feed several families. Why would you catch them as 20cm babies?” He also argues that officials should be looking at the bigger picture – geographically: “Local people should be the ones making the decisions, not some centralised bureau far from the sea.” One fine example of positive local decision-making is the 2006 move by the Monegasque government to encourage restaurants and hotels in the principality to stop putting bluefin tuna on their menus. There was no official ban, just an acceptance of the fact that the delicious fish was struggling to maintain its numbers in the face of modern commercial fishing. The federation regularly takes part in tagging operations for a range of species, including the largest tuna in the Mediterranean, the red tuna, which can grow up to 600kg. After years of falling stocks, David says the numbers of bluefin are increasing. “If we can prove that tuna stocks in the Pelagos Sanctuary have improved,” he says, “then perhaps we can allow artisan line and sport fishing again.” He hopes that the federation will continue to grow in size and importance: “If you truly want to change things, the principality – with its influential residents and fast-moving legislative system – is the place to do it.”  www.fpmmonaco.com

JulY / augusT 2018

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explorer prince The adventures of Albert I s a young boy, Prince Albert I of Monaco (1848-1922) stared out across the waters below the Palais Princier and dreamed of the days he would sail out of Port Hercules to explore new lands and seas. When he ascended to the Monegasque throne in his early 40s, the prince already had decades of experience out on the water from his days in both the Spanish and French navies and later aboard his faithful two-masted schooner, the Hirondelle, as well as several other high-performing vessels for the age. He led 28 scientific expeditions – in the Mediterranean, to the Azores and up to the Arctic – and devoted much of his life to the then-relaticover oF alBert ier vely young field of oceanode Monaco: le prince graphy. explorateur The great-great-grandfather

the launch oF the coMic Book at the oceanographic MuseuM in the presence oF prince alBert ii

of Monaco’s current sovereign, Prince Albert II, also played a role in some major scientific discoveries such as: the Princess Alice Bank in 1896; two skeletons dubbed Grimaldi Man that were found in the Balzi Rossi cliffs near Ventimiglia in 1901; and anaphylaxis (collaborator Charles Richet was awarded the Nobel Prize of Medicine for his work in 1913), as well as several new marine species. One of his most memorable achievements was the founding of the Oceanographic Institute in 1906, which is today represented by the famous Oceano-

graphic Museum in Monaco and the Ocean House in Paris. Over 54 wonderful pages, the Glénat publishing house recounts 30 years of Prince Albert’s adventures in a comic book called Albert Ier de Monaco: Le Prince Explorateur that was created by author Philippe Thirault and illustrator Sandro. It is part of the Explora Collection headed by Christian Clot, which includes other epic adventurers and scientists like Magellan, Marco Polo, Darwin and Fawcett. It is available to purchase from the Musée Océanographique for €14.95. 

a good year

previous year) and SBM’s operational deficit has been reduced by 5.7 million euros in the 12 months from April 2017 to March 2018. One of the key improvements Biamonti announced was stability in the gaming and gambling sector to represent just over 200 million euros of revenue in 2017/18. Particular advances were made on the game tables of the Casino de Monte-Carlo, which saw a huge 21% increase in turnover. This, however, compensated for a fall on those of the Café de Paris and Sun Casino. Another high point was the 7% reported growth for the group’s hotels, which garnered the company 234.7 million euros in revenue. The establishments to thank are the MonteCarlo Bay Hotel & Resort, Méridien Beach Plaza and the iconic Hôtel de Paris. The rental sector for boutiques and office space – predominately in Monte-Carlo Bay, Balmoral and the new Sporting facilities – experienced a 4% rise in activity to 40.9 million euros. Biamonti concluded the conference by announcing a positive outlook for the coming year: since April, there has been an increase on last year’s figures. 

SBM announces 2017/18 annual results

here was reason for JeanLuc Biamonti, the President of Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, to be smiling as he presented the company’s 2017/18 annual results at the end of June. Turnover is up (to 474.6 million euros compared to 458.8 million euros the

the president oF Monte-carlo société des Bains de Mer, jean-luc BiaMonti, at the annual results conFerence

JulY / augusT 2018

Nettoyage et désinfection de climatisations

PALAIS ARMIDA,1 BD DE SUISSE / 98000 MONACO / TÉL: +377 99 90 28 86 www.accleaner.mc

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The gold of The pharaohs 1

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2,500 years of the goldsmith’s art at the Grimaldi Forum Gold and ancient egypt: both together and apart, these are two subjects that have long beguilded people around the world. Ten years after the Queens of egypt exhibition, one of the Grimaldi Forum’s most successful ever events, the cultural centre has returned to this fascinating theme. By ELSA CARPENTER

 Photo 1

the silver sarcophagus oF psusennes i oF the 21st dynasty, which was unearthed with the treasures oF tanis © Laboratoriorosso SRL

n the Gold of the Pharaohs curator Christiane Ziegler explores 2,500 years of the goldsmith’s art. “I didn’t want to just do an exhibition merely about beautiful objects,” says the Honorary Director of the Egyptian Antiquities Department of the Louvre Museum and Publication Director of the Ar-

 Photo 2

the ancient Burial ground oF saqqara © Nathalie Varley)  Photo 3 a gold Bracelet FroM the 21st dynasty Featuring the syMBolic scaraB © Egyptian Museum in Cairo

chaeological Mission of the Louvre Museum in Saqqara. “Egypt was the original Land of Gold and the Ancient Egyptians were the first modern humans to really work the metal. I wanted to investigate the techniques and the different ages of gold, from the Early Dynastic Period to the treasures of Tanis, which were undiscovered until 1939.” The exhibition, which runs from 7th July to 9th September, contains nearly 200 unique pieces. Some have never been seen before outside of Egypt. The timing of the event has worked to Ziegler and the Grimaldi Forum’s favour: at the end of 2018, the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum will open in the shade of the Giza pyramids. It will be the biggest museum of its kind in the world at over 100,000m². In the course of preparing the new site, a number of ‘forgotten’ wonders have resurfaced and been exclusively loaned to the principality. These include: the death masks of Amenhotep III (reigned 1388 to 1351BC) and Psusennes I (ruled 1047 to 1001BC) as well as the latter’s stunning silver sarcophagus and that of Shoshenq II (pharaoh from 887 to 885BC); rings, pendants and bracelets, such as one early piece from over 5,000 years ago; statues; furniture and decorative pieces. Alongside the ‘beautiful objects’, Ziegler has coordinated a series of authentic papyrus that scribes used to document the gold industry. It would certainly have been a major operation across the entire territory that involved many thousands of slaves and workers at all levels. JulY / augusT 2018

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The exhibition also details the prospection of gold in the desert. The areas around the Nile and the Red Sea were the traditional hot spots for finding gold, but North Sudan also emerged as a rich site during the Middle kingdom (roughly 2050 to 1710BC). Other favoured materials were sourced further afield, such as the deep-blue gemstone of lapis lazuli, which would have been mined in Afghanistan. If gold had links to the divine for the Ancient Egyptians, the reds of carnelian and jasper stood for the blood that coursed in their veins while turquoise represented the vegetation and natural health on which their daily lives depended. “Each piece of jewellery or décor would have held symbolic value,” says Ziegler. a budget of 2.5 million euros The primitive papers reveal a side of Ancient Egypt that is unfortunately not far from our own. Corruption and robberies were common occurrences, and Ziegler has dedicated an entire part of the exhibition to recounting stories of tomb robbers and their pillages: “These writings indicate just how much of the gold is missing and thus how important the remaining pieces are.” Very precious indeed. The Grimaldi Forum has allocated a budget of around 2.5 million euros to the exhibition, a large portion of which will go towards the delicate transportation of the works and their insurance. Security personnel will also be present day and night during the length of the event. “It was very difficult to select which pieces would go on display,” says the centre’s Nathalie Varley, who spent two weeks touring Egypt and its leading museums with Ziegler at the start of the year. “More items and histories are being uncovered every day, which adds to the fascination with Egypt. The number of sites that are currently being excavated is astounding.” Ziegler counts herself among those archaeologists lucky enough to have made a discovery. Two decades ago, while on an expedition in Saqqara, she found a grave that dated back over 3,000 years. 1

 Photo 1 a gold and lapis laZuli Bracelet FroM the reign oF raMesses ii © Jurgen Liepe)  Photo 2 exhiBition curator christiane Ziegler in Front oF the cairo MuseuM © D.R.  Photo 3 the sarcophagus oF shoshenq ii oF the 21st dynasty © Laboratoriorosso SRL

“An archaeologist never finds what they’re looking for,” she jokes, “it’s always something else.” Ancient Egypt is Ziegler’s life work. Today she splits her time between Paris, Provence (her family has a holiday home in the hills above Saint Raphaël) and Egypt, where she spends up to three months a year. In addition to her roles at the Louvre, Ziegler is also the President of the Archaeology Centre in Memphis and admits: “A lot of my time these days is taken up applying for permits and getting authorisations.” Still, a visit to Egypt is something she highly recommends. “Tourism in the region has dipped, drastically even, in the last few years, but the levels of security for the public are excellent. Now is a wonderful time to visit as you can tour many of the principle sites in relative tranquillity. Plus,” she adds as a side note, “once the pieces we have on display go back to Egypt, they’ll almost certainly never leave again.” 

THE EXHIBITION The Gold of the Pharaohs: 2,500 Years of the Goldsmith’s Art Grimaldi Forum, Monaco 7th July to 9th September Open from 10am to 8pm (until 10pm on Thursdays) admission €11 www.grimaldiforum.com

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ikb Yves Klein: a colour visionary

By SARAH HYDE

2018 marks the 90th anniversary of the birth of Nice-born artist Yves Klein, one of the region’s favourite and most famous sons. in an interview with alexandre Devals, the venet Foundation’s director and curator of its current Klein exhibition Pigment Pur, riviera insider learns more about the venerated colour visionary and creator of a timeless deep blue hue.

 Photo 1 the pigMent used at pigMent pur, the venet exhiBition © D.R.  Photo 2 psrt oF the virtual reality experience oF the yves klein exhiBition at nicetoile this suMMer © D.R.  Photo 3 yves klein, galerie one, londres 1957 © D.R.

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riviera insider: IKB (or International Klein Blue) is found throughout the exhibition. What is so special about the pigment? alexandre devals: To be precise, this is not the IkB that Yves klein patented in 1960, but the pigment he first used in 1957. For our installation, we show the blue pigment that klein discovered at Edouard Adam’s shop in Paris, his purveyor of paints. He was fascinated by the purity of the colour and its lightness as well as the fact that it was so light and soft. We received the pigment from the Yves klein Archives. In total, 600 kilos of the pigment were used. In 1957, klein decided to exhibit the pigment at the prominent avant-garde gallery, Colette Allendy, in Paris. It was both important to him and the art scene. Even

though the exhibition showed many other artworks, it was this one that gave its title to the show: Pigments Purs (translation: Pure Pigments). Why does Klein continue to carry so much importance in the art world? His body of work is very impressive: he was a major creator and one of the inventors of dematerialisation as well as being a wonderful colourist. klein was absolutely right to underline the power of the colour. He died very

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4  Photo 4 yves klein, anthropoMetries sans titre, ant 84, 1960, MaMac nice © Archives Yves Klein

young (at 34 in 1962) and he would be 90 years old this year. We can only imagine what he could have achieved had he lived until now. His tragic and early death contributed to making him the mythical figure he is today. Klein can be challenging for the spectator to really understand. When he spoke of ‘the void’, what did he mean? ‘The void’ refers to an exhibition klein made in 1958 at the Iris Clert gallery in Paris. The original title was more complex: La Spécialisation de la Sensibilité à l’état Matière Première en Sensibilité Picturale Stabilisée (translation : The Specialisation of Sensibility in the Raw Material State into Stabilized Pictorial Sensibility). The gallery was entirely empty. The window was painted blue, but the room was all white. In 1961, at the Haus Lange Museum, he created another empty space. This one was called Zone de Sensibilité Picturale Immatérielle. It focused on what is left when there is nothing or seemingly nothing. The result, which can still be seen at the museum in krefeld, is stunning. Here lies the answer to your answer. In a few words, it would be the conscience of someone in a space or only that which is essential. For klein, it’s also linked to the cosmos and the metaphysical. The artist is often remembered for his work Anthropométrie de l'époque Bleue (translation: Anthropometry of the Blue Age), in which he applied his blue paint directly to the naked bodies of beautiful women.

Was this a serious artist reconsidering the processes of creating art or a man making the most of his position? He was certainly viewed as an enfant terrible at the time... I can’t say I’ve ever thought about this body of work in that way! However, it’s true that one of the major creative revolutions initiated by klein was to find new ways of ‘creating art’. He imposed monochromatic works on a very doubtful audience. For the generation that preceded klein’s naked art, women were traditionally passive models used for drawing exercises. With klein, the body became an active part of the artistic process. During video footage taken during the creation of some of these works, klein is shown to be distant from the ‘nakedness’ and respectful, acting like a conductor of a musical piece. 

REGIONAL EXHIBITIONS FEATURING YVES KLEIN Or Musée des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée, Marseille Until 10th September 2018 Yves Klein : Pigment Pur Venet Foundation, Le Muy Until 15th September 2018 Cosmogonies, Au Gré des Elements Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain, Nice Until 16th September 2018 LEXPO Augmentée Yves Klein... La Vibration de la Couleur NICETOILE shopping centre, Nice From 6th July to 30th September 2018 JulY / augusT 2018

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rue(z) & Vous

summer agenda

What? The highlight of Valbonne’s summer season is the Rue(z) & Vous festival for street artists (4th to 8th July). Expect classic comedic acts from mimes and clowns, theatrical productions, poets and painters, artistic cyclist Jessica Arpin

all the way from Brazil, dance pieces and a very unusual football match from Moroccan troupe Colokolo. Other interesting events in the picturesque village include: English-language concerts and film projections at the Hôtel de Ville (21st and 28th July, 5th August); the Best of Quincy Jones by Nice’s Azur Big Band (3rd August); the Fête de la Saint Roch (14th to 16th August); and a whole range of art exhibitions at the Salle Saint Esprit and Ancienne Mairie. Don’t

forget the Art Shopping Festival from 8th to 16th September, which combines modern and contemporary art sales with countless artistic performances, as well as the weekly Provençal market on Fridays and flea market on Sundays.

When? All summer long

Where? Valbonne

www.valbonne.fr

Music, art & sport

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MontE-Carlo SPorting SuMMEr What? Headline acts including: Ringo Starr & his All Starr band (6th July); Seal (27th July); Tom Jones (28th July); Il Volo (31st July); Santana (5th August); and Grace Jones (6th August). When? 6th July to 6th August Where? Salle des étoiles, Monaco www.montecarlolive.com..

JaZZ à Juan What? Jazz in all its forms: Nile Rogers with Earth, Wind & Fire (16th July); Marcus Miller (19th July); and Norah Jones (21st July). When? 12th to 22nd July Where? Pinède Gould, Juanles-Pins www.jazzajuan.com..

niCE JaZZ FEStiVal What? Gregory Porter, Massive Attack and Deva Mahal are among the 30 internationally known musicians and bands performing this year. When? 16th to 21st July Where? Two stages: Place Masséna & the Théâtre de Verdure, Nice www.nicejazzfestival.fr..

lES griMaldinES What? Imany, Sinclair, Jehro and Michel Fugain are the stars of the summer. Every Tuesday at 10]pm, the concerts take place in the castle, starting at 7pm. Entrance is free! When? 17th July to 7th August Where? Château de Grimaud, Grimaud www.les-grimaldines.com..

nuitS du Sud What? An eclectic open air music festival featuring an array of genres and international acts. When? 19th July to 3rd August Where? Place du Grand Jardin, Vence www.nuitsdusud.com..

lunallEna What? New to the AlpesMaritimes, bands playing at this weekend event including Uk legends The Chemical Brothers When? 26th & 27th July Where? Pinède Gould, Juanles-Pins www.lunallena-festival.com..

lES nuitS guitarES What? Revel in the power of the guitar at three distinct evenings: Morcheeba, kool & the Gang; and Catherine Ringer. When? 26th to 28th July Where? Jardin de l'Olivaie, Beaulieu-sur-Mer www.lesnuitsguitares.com ..

FEStiVal dE MEnton What? Classical music performances by: countertenor Philippe Jaroussky, soprano Emöke Baràth and the Ensemble Artaserse (28th July); Bertrand Chamayou on piano (30th July); Les Talents Lyriques (31st July); cellist Daniel Müller-Schott and pianist Nicholas Angelich (2nd August); pianist Piotr Anderszewski (3rd August); violinist Janine Jansen and pianist Alexander Gavrylyuk (4th August); the Yaron Herman Trio (6th August); Isabelle Faust and friends (8th August); chamber music (10th August); and a night of Beethoven (11th August). Fringe events will be taking place under the Concerts au Musée and Festival Off banners. When? 28th July to 11th August Where? Saint Michel Archange Basilica, Musée Jean Cocteau & Esplanade Francis-Palmero www.festival-musiquementon.fr ..

lES aoûtiEnnES What? A fully French event with: Marina, kaye, Lost Frequencies and MC Solaar. When? 9th to 11th August Where? Stade Deferrari, Bandol www.lesaoutiennes.com

lES PlagES ÉlECtroniquES What? Dance until the early hours to 40 artists on four stages, including: Sven Väth, The Avener, Solstice and Top-Act kygo. When? 10th to 12th August Where? Beach by the Palais des Festivals, Cannes www.plages-electroniques.com

hugh coltMan © D.R.

a focus ON JaZZ à raMatuEllE Open air concerts in a setting by the sea... If that hasn’t sold you on a trip to Ramatuelle, the line-up for the 33rd edition of this excellent coastal jazz festival just might! Opening the festival on 16th August will be five musicians: Emile Parisien (saxophone), Vincent Peirani (accordion), Michel Portal (clarinet), Bojan Z (piano) and Andreas Schaerer (vocals). Parisien and Peirani should be recognisable names to regulars in the Ramatuelle audience, but vocalist Schaerer is new to the scene. He’ is a veritable one-man orchestra! The following night is a tribute to Joe Zawinul, the ‘wizard of the electric piano, co-leader of Weather Report and father figure of jazzrock’. Numerous musicians will come together to reinvent the great man’s hits in a brand new way. On 18th August, Sly Johnson – a favourite of the festival since the 1990s – returns to the beach town for a new project with Andre Ceccarelli (keyboards), Laurent de Wilde (keyboards) and Fifi Chayeb (bass). “This group’s improvisation and their irresistible mix of soul, funk and hip-hop will have you on your feet and dancing in the aisles,” say organisers. The Fred Hersch Trio will perform on 19th August. Described as a ‘byword for jazz piano [whose] ability to instantly switch into improvisation represents the essence of jazz’, main man Fred and his troupe, John Hebert (bass) and Eric McPherson (percussion), have septn the last few years appearing at top venues and festivals around the world. Ramatuelle is next! And rounding off the festival is Hugh Coltman, who was voted Vocalist of the Year at the Victoires du Jazz Awards 2017. Along with a stellar cast of musicians, this summer Coltman will pay homage to Nat king Cole with Who’s Happy. “He brings his smoky voice and sharp lyrics together with Louisiana fanfares in a generous brew, blending jazz, blues and soul with the flavours of the Deep South. Come and hear him - no holds barred!” say organisers. A pass for all five nights at the Théâtre de Verdure costs €150, single passes cost €40. VIP tickets are also available at €110 and include a dinner follows the selected concert. For more information and the full programme for the fringe Festival Off programme: www.jazzaramatuelle.com JulY / augusT 2018

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What? Big, bright and designed to beat the competition! For six consecutive Saturdays from 14th July to 24th August and at 10pm, the nations of Poland, France, Argentina, Finland and the Philippines will battle

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in Cannes...

for the title of Master Firework Display in the Baie de Cannes.

festival-pyrotechnique-cannes.com

Soirées at the Villa Ephrussi © Eric Devaux

What? To celebrate France’s National Day, firework displays will be taking place from Plage Salis on 13th July and the Bay of Juan-les-Pins on 14th July. The Festival Pyromélodique has four dates: 2nd, 9th and 16th August (Juan-les-Pins) and 24th August (on the

in antibes...

coastal road between the Fort Carré and Brague river). The times hadn’t been confirmed as we went to print!

What? Every Monday and Tuesday during July and August, the beautiful Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is opening its doors from 7.30pm till midnight – what better time to experience the wonder of this estate’s exceptional gardens and privileged location?

www.antibesjuanlespins.com

What? One of the finest firework events in the world is happening once again in Port Hercules on 21st and 28th July at 10pm and 4th and 8th August at 9.30pm.

in Monaco...

www.monaco-feuxdartiﬁce.mc

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Each Monday, a jazz performance will be held on the patio. On Tuesday, the guitar has the place of honour. The restaurant is open until 10.30pm, the bar until 11pm. Tickets are €18 (or €15 if reserving in advance). Another date to keep in mind is 6th July for the costumed Bal de la Baronne Béatrice! The theme for this year’s event is 18th century garden parties. Individual tickets cost €650 and unless

www.villa-ephrussi.com

you have a wardrobe stocked with outfits from the era, you’ll probably want to rent something suitably glamourous from Fiesta Folies in Nice or Un Air de Fêtes in Cannes!

When? July & August

Where? Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

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What? 20 events, 133 races, 50,000 spectators... It’s going to be one busy summer for the horses and riders at this Cagnes-sur-Mer racetrack! The calendar kicks off at 7pm on 13th July with a free event organised in conjunction with Villeneuve-Loubet. Races continue throughout the summer for horses and riders of all ages and abilities as well as an exciting selection of sideline attractions: the Grande Soirée de l’élégance on 18th July (free entrance for women in hats and a Rolls Royce exhibition); Grand Prix de Roquefort les Pins (20th July); an evening promoting the artists of the region alongside a 2,150-metre race (23rd July); acrobatic performances and fireworks following the Prix de la Ville de Cagnes-sur-Mer (free, 25th July); the Prix Roger Leyraud with its almost quarter of a million euros prize for first place (30th July); the Trot Top Tour for children (8th August); and much more. The Hippodrome, France’s se-

For seven generations, the Arlette Gruss Circus has toured the country, delighting spectators of all ages, through the ages. In 2018, this legendary entourage is celebrating 250 years of the circus art with new and daring performances: the luminous Neon Dance Show; the Rocket Man; the Infernal Wheel; and an exhilarating parade of vehicles – trial bikes, quads, pocket monster trucks... – with the Motorshow. The Gruss family is fiercly proud of its heritage, but isn’t one to shy away from innovation. The motto of this year’s tour: To Dare! Adult tickets begin at €17.

16/20 AOÛT 2018

À RAMATUELLE

Meeting d’Été cond leading location of its kind and a five-minute drive from the Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, is also an experienced events host for corporate clients. It offers a range of spaces that can be privatised according to tailor-made specifications for VIP events, seminars, conferences and conventions: a 3,500m² grand hall, a 12,400m² forecourt, a 3,300m² pavilion and a 3,100m² paddock. Events can be booked during or outside of race dates!

When?

THÉÂTRE DE VERDURE 18H30 / Festival OFF 21H / Concert

JE 16

> 21H00 - Théâtre de Verdure Émile PARISIEN, Vincent PEIRANI & Friends

VE 17

> 21H00 - Théâtre de Verdure FILE UNDER ZAWINUL

SA 18

> 21H00 - Théâtre de Verdure WE ARE 4

DI 19

> 21H00 - Théâtre de Verdure Fred HERSCH TRIO

LU 20

> 21H00 - Théâtre de Verdure Hugh COLTMAN Who’s Happy

13th July to 25th August

Emile Parisien saxophone, Vincent Peirani accordéon, Michel Portal clarinette, Bojan Z clavier, Andréas Schaerer voix

Emile Parisien saxophone soprano, Vincent Peirani accordéon, Manu Codjia guitare, Paco Séry batterie, Linley Marthe basse, Mino Cinelu percussions, Aziz Sahmaoui voix-percussions, Tony Paeleman Fender Rhodes

Where? Hippodrome de la Côte d’Azur, Cagnes-sur-Mer

www.hippodrome-cotedazur.fr

What?

14:30

ème

fest3 ival

14/06/2018

arlette gruss Circus

Child rates apply for those under 12. Children up to three years old go free.

When and where Gassin from 16th to 22nd July, Cabris from 25th to 29th July, Hyères from 1st to 8th August, Valbonne from 11th to 22nd August & Fréjus from 25th to 30th August

Feat. Sly Johnson voix, André Cecarrelli batterie, Laurent de Wilde claviers, Fifi Chayeb basse

Fred Hersch piano, John Hebert contrebasse, Eric McPherson batterie

Hugh Coltman Voix, Jérôme Etcheberry trompette, Frédéric Couderc clarinette et baryton, Jerry Edwards trombone, Didier Havet soubassophone, Freddy Koella guitare, Gael Rakotondrabe piano, Raphael Chassin batterie

04 94 79 10 29 www.jazzaramatuelle.com

www.cirque-gruss.com

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naTure of form

not have become the world’s perfume capital as it is today,” says the museum director and exhibition’s curator, Olivier Quiquempois. For the MIP gardens in Mouans-Sartoux, the artist and the director have condensed a mini version of this inspirational scenery. At Quiquempois’ invitation, Scholtès has created a transitional installation of geometric shapes that interact with the location’s diverse collection of Mediterranean plants. The museum in old town Grasse features a vibrant range of multi-medium works alongside its permanent exhibitions that retell the history of perfumery. 

Armand Scholtès: a gardener of shapes

Photo 1 arMand scholtès perFects the prototype oF his installation called epheMeral uninhaBitaBle architectures For the Mip gardens in Mouanssartoux Photo 2 Metaphysics according to pink: the BeautiFul and the world, 2005, watercolour Photo 3 the Multi-coloured Breath oF Beginning, 2017, oil on paper

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The international Perfume Museum presents one man’s creative confrontations with the landscape in the south of France.

ature takes centre stage in the work of Armand Scholtès. This summer, a double exhibition – in both the main International Perfume Museum site in Grasse and at the establishment’s gardens in Mouans-Sartoux – has been dedicated to the French artist. The 82-year-old (who is originally from Lorraine, but has been a resident of Nice since the 1980s) is described as a ‘gardener of forms’. His more than three decades on the Côte d’Azur have naturally influenced his works, which are best summarised as minimal and modern with touches of naïve and primitive art along with Arte Povera. In this unique style, the pieces depict Scholtès’ explorations of the region. “Without the landscape of the Côte d’Azur, Grasse could

JARDINIER DES FORMES The exhibition runs until 30th September in two sites: the MiP in Grasse (open every day from 10am to 7pm until the end of September) and the MiP Gardens in Mouans-Sartoux (open every day from 10am to 7pm until the end of august then 5.30pm until the end of September). admission is €4 to the independent locations or €6 on a joint pass. Guided tours are available from €2 and audio guides for €1. www.museesdegrasse.com

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On the agenda

Manolo valdés, Mariposas aZules, 2016 © D.R.

Where arT Thou? Current & upcoming events in the region By SARAH HYDE

he first event of note is a little distance away, but certainly worth the trip: les rencontres d'arles is the must-see date of the summer for all serious lovers of photography. It opens on 2nd July with over 30 exhibitions by established names, such as Robert Frank, Paul Graham, Philippe Parreno, Raymond Depardon, Paul Fusco and William Wegman. The festival will also showcase emerging new talents: Laura Henno, Feng Li and Aurore Valade. The various exhibition sites are located across this beautiful and historic town, making the whole experience something of a tasting menu for the very best in the art. It will continue until 23rd September. If you are enjoying your time in the west of the south, the Festival d'aix will be in full swing in July. The close-by château la coste in Le Puy, a place that loves both wine and art, should also be on your itinerary. From 2nd July, a fascinating – if challenging – sophie calle exhibition will be on display. Dead End, which includes her landmark piece douleur exquise, maybe isn’t one for the children, but will add some gothic delight to your summer days. A cy twombly show will be held in the same location from 27th August. The grimaldi Forum in Monaco is playing the family card with an exhibition that will interest and enthral all ages: the gold of

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the pharaohs (full coverage of the event can be found on pages 52-54). This year’s jazz à juan is something of a vintage edition, with both Nile Rogers and Earth, Wind and Fire playing. The programme runs from 12th to 22nd July and as music fills the skies under the famous palm trees, there’s little that can match a night in the Pinède Gould in terms of atmosphere. Nearby, the exhibition Picasso, les années vallauris will be on show at the town’s Musée national pablo picasso until 22nd October. The maestro lived at the Villa La Galloise from 1947 to 1955, where he left Vallauris for Cannes. Another exhibition on the Spanish artist is taking place at the Musée Matisse in Nice: Matisse et picasso, la comédie du Modèle. The two men were probably best described as ‘frenemies’ with a huge mutual respect although there are stories of Matisse proclaiming how he would not see Picasso because he always stole ideas. The exhibition runs until 29th September. Picasso will shine again at the end of the summer. From 28th September until 13th January 2019 at the picasso Museum in Antibes, an exhibition that will explore the many years he spent in the marina town and its surroundings (1920-1946). We hope there’s at least one mention of how he craftily accommodated both his wife and mistresses in one post code in les vacances de Monsieur pablo... The balmy temperatures of summer nights make nocturnal hours just as important as sun-filled days on the Côte d’Azur. One can just picture the stories of Hemmingway and Fitzgerald finding their inspiration in the moonlight. hotel du cap-eden-roc’s Bubbles of the roof soirées (every Thursday until 13th September) marry culture with that classic French Riviera sophistication, and to make the very most of the experience, the full moon will be out on 27th July and 26th August. Tender is the night, after all... 

CoSMoGoNIeS MAMAC, Nice Until 16th September 2018 Featuring work from Marina abramovic, John Cage & Yves Klein www.mamac-nice.org CouRBeT, DeGAS, CézANNe... Musée Cantini, Marseille Until 23rd September 2018 For lovers of impressionism, this is a rare opportunity to see some magniﬁcent works from the Burrell collection www.culture.marseille.fr 10Th ANNIveRSARY Opera Gallery, Monaco 13th July to 31st august 2018 The Monaco Masters celebratory exhibition includes glorious works by valdés and Chagall among many other www.operagallery.com/monaco L’IMAGINATIoN eN Jeu Malmaison, Cannes 13th July to 28th October 2018 Discover the spirit of Max ernst, an important surrealist who spent time in the south of France with his wife Peggy Guggenheim while waiting for passage to america at the outbreak of WWii www.cannes.com INSPIRANTeS INSPIRATRICeS Musée Bonnard, Le Cannet 7th July to 4th November 2018 a fascinating exhibition exploring the role of the muse in her presence and absence www.museebonnard.fr MY NATIoN: IMAGINATIoN Fondation Maeght, Saint Paul de Vence Until 11th November 2018 Belgian artist and choreographer Jan Fabre creates site-speciﬁc surrealist works of a medicinal nature at the foundation, which recently hosted the Louis vuitton Cruise 2019 Fashion Show www.fondation-maeght.com The PRoMISe oF hAPPINeSS Villa Paloma (NMNM), Monaco Until 6th January 2019 The principality presents Tom Wesselmann and his pop art portrayal of women www.nmnm.mc

¥ NNN í ¥ §å

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OUR GOLF CORRESPONDENT MICHAEL MOLLOY

Teeing oﬀ on the Côte d’azur

an irish iT professional who spent several years working in Sophia antipolis, Michael learned his French at the local rugby club and got his golfing fix by joining the office golf society. During his time in the region, he has played many of southern France’s finest courses.

LES DOMAINES DE SAINT ENDRÉOL

sainT endréol

ny golfer passing along the A8 motorway should know – and make a stop at – Saint Endréol. It’s been described as one of France’s flagship courses and was designed by Michel Gayon, who is responsible for dozens of excellent sites developed in the last 30 years. Close to Le Muy, the 18-hole course is beautifully laid out on a naturally wooded and hilly terrain. As there are occasional long walks between holes, a buggy is advisable. The often-photographed second hole is fabulously strategic, with a blind tee shot requiring a hybrid or iron if you're visiting for the first time, followed by a dangerous approach across the lake. If you're playing the course for the second time, you'll undoubtedly want to 'have a go' at driving the 12th. A big sliced

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or faded drive can bring the green into range on this short, but severe and blind dogleg. All you have to do is find the right part of the slope... Eagles and quadruple bogeys are both common here! There is then a bit of a trek to the fantastic 13th. One of the best Par 3s in the region, it features an elevated tee shot to a green surrounded by water on three sides. Finding the extensive sand trap here will be a relief to many. The homeward route is less spectacular from there, although no less challenging. The river continues to represent an out-of-bounds challenge along the 14th, 15th and 16th, while the left is bordered by a steep incline. The intimidating 17th is a very tough hole. This Index 1 Par 4 was, once upon a time, a Par 5. Trust me when I say: this hole is uphill, mentally and

physically. I'm impressed with anybody who can make a bogey here, and you will need to sit down when you eventually reach the green. The facility includes a downhill driving range and a nice short game area as well as a comprehensive spa centre with its impressive 370 acres. Competitive green fee offers and a great course layout all make Saint Endréol well worth a look the next time you head up the autoroute. Saint Endréol is also the former home of Youtube's bilingual golf instruction legend, Franck Mazzarese, who currently runs a popular restaurant in the Valmasque. If you’ve spent any time watching his online clips, you’ll certainly have seen some of the course. Whether it’ll play to your advantage, only a round will tell. 

4300 Route de Bagnols en Forêt 83920 La Motte www.st-endreol.com

The course 18 hole Par 72 6,169 metre Driving range & putting-chipping green Clubhouse, restaurant, terrace, Proshop, changing rooms & sanitary facilities for guests High season green fee: €78 Low season green fee: €68 end of the day green fee: €56 Golf cart: €38

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no more snoW Marion luigi & philippe vallini on an e-Bike tour © D.R.

The story of one mountain town & its drive for alternatives When temperatures on the coast and in the cities soar, we can always ﬁnd freshness in the lower alps. For communities like Caille, however, changes in the climate are making the step from winter destination to summer something much more permanent. By AILA STöCKMANN

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he chairlift is still at the service of the skiers in winter, but during the increasingly long temperate season, it serves a whole armada of other sporting activities. A high ropes course with zip lines at Arbre & Aventure, a caving system 45 metres below the ground at the Via Souterrata, mountain bike and e-bike trails, karting from the top to bottom of the lift with Runix, a tepee village for overnight stays... All are grouped around the Parc de la Moulière and the lift station. Mayor Yves Funel has been in charge here for 23 years, but has spent his whole life in Caille, which is around 45 minutes from Grasse. Everyone knows everyone: there are just 450 year-round residents. Up here, 1,200 metres above sea level and far removed from the bling of the coast, life is obviously pretty good. The weather can be rough, but the strength of the community is no doubt thanks – in part – to the harshest of the climate. Caille lies at the foot of the Baou Roux and overlooks a vast grassy plain. Surrounded by hills of the Préalpes d'Azur nature reserve, cows graze in summer and sheep in the autumn after returning from the higher peaks. In good winters (for sport), the snow can be several metres deep: perfect for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and even dog sledding. The plateau isn’t strictly suitable for agriculture. Following heavy rains, a considerable part is

under water and sometimes for weeks. Only very gradually does the ‘lake’ seep away into the karstic rock. With tourists arriving every day, there’s some one who works in tourism in almost every family. Funel says the town averages 15,000 visitors during the summer season. In Caille they will find a lively community. Unlike many places in rural France, there aren’t waves of people upping sticks and moving to the city. On the contrary, the residents count many people from the coast among them, including expats, who have come here for the affordable property and natural setting. The former washhouse or lavoir, the public bread-baking oven and an old castle have all been well-preserved. Caille is particularly proud of a 625-kilo meteorite that landed within its borders 140,000 years ago. Made of iron and nickel, and hailing from the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, the original was hauled off to the Natural History Museum in Paris at the start of the 19th century, but a copy is presented in the town hall. “How green it is this year!” exclaims Marion Luigi during our visit. As the head of the Syndicat Mixte of the two ski zones of Gréolièreles-Neiges and L'Audibergue-La Moulière, she’s responsible for a range of operations that would be the tasks of entire departments in larger municipalities, from managing the cable car employees to public relations. Like the mayor, Marion was also born and

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First photo discover a range oF Mountain Bike trails & oBstacles in la Moulière © D.R. Second photo when the weather is good, the view goes all the way to the Mediterranean © A.S. Third photo the outstanding natural Beauty oF the plaine de caille © A.S.

bred in the area. Together with bike tour guide Philippe Vallini, who she’s known since childhood, Marion joins us on an e-bike experience from Caille across the plain to Andon, up to L’Audibergue then through the rock-strewn forest to the Parc de la Moulière and back to Caille. Cycle routes such as this have been building as tourist attractions over the last few years. Philippe knows the region like the back of his hand – and the advantages of electrically-assisted bikes: “You pedal the same as normal, but your power is amplified and multiplied by the battery.” Skis, bikes, karts... It’s all fun, but you don’t

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need ‘equipment’ to experience the natural beauty of the area. Numerous hiking trails lead through the landscape and for people for all abilities. One of the most beautiful takes four hours over the Crêtes du Bauroux, from Séranon to Caille and back. With all this activity, you’ll be in need of some replenishment! If you’re looking for refined Mediterranean cuisine then you’re likely to be disappointed, but that’s not to say there isn’t plenty of choice. All roads lead to Le Christina, better known as Chez Huguette. In the 1960s, when L’Audibergue was developed into a winter sports centre, Huguette was smart enough to recognise a good location when she saw one: at the bottom of the slopes. Since then, she’s fed 150 hungry skiers a day during the season, but the restaurant is often full in the summer too. Today – as every one that’s gone before – the chef serves croutons d'ail as an amuse bouche. Then comes hearty mountain food: lamb, beef and vegetables with lots of butter. It’s all prepared by Huguette, now a great-grandmother. The menu costs €26 and a reservation is strongly recommended. There’s also a good range of accommodation, from charming private chambres d'hôtes to hostels and other original concepts. These include: La Godille at the foot of the piste in L'Audibergue, a small inn run by the Grun family who work with local producers and experts to host events on wild herbs and medicinal plants, for example; the Lou Païs tepee camp in La Moulière, which features eight large tents for up eight people; the Cabanes de la Moulière treehouses run by Sophie Wetzel; and the Bastide Napoleon by the Madre family, which owns an open roof over the bed with a clear view of the starry sky. Funel explains that many have been created by mothers looking to create an income while their children are at school. “La mayonnaise commence à prendre,” says mayor, “we are on the right path with all our efforts in the field of tourism.”  www.stations-greolieres-audibergue.com JulY / augusT 2018

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YachTing

Reporting from the

YachT club de monaco 1

an institution in the principality since its founding in 1953, the YCM unites over 2,000 prestigious members of 66 nationalities in their love of sailing and the oceans.

 Photos 1 & 2 the goal oF the event is to encourage innovation in the Field oF clean technology and energy sources © Mesi / YCM  Photo 3 l-r: solar iMpulse’s Bertrand piccard with ycM general secretary Bernard d’alessandri © Mesi / YCM

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a clean fuTure for propulsion The fifth edition of the Solar & Energy Boat Challenge is to take place in the waters before the famous Yacht Club de Monaco from 12th to 14th July. A unique event sponsored by the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, Hydros Foundation and International Powerboating Federation (UIM), the challenge gives young engineers an opportunity to reinvent boating to meet future energy and environmental imperatives. “It is part of the principality’s commitment to the environment led by [the Yacht Club’s] president, Prince Albert II,” says YCM General Secretary, Bernard d’Alessandri. “If we want to position Monaco as the Capital of Yachting, we need to play a part in these technologies.” This year, the endurance fleet race and timed one-on-one slalom duels are being sponsored by Bertrand Piccard, the Swiss aeronaut behind Solar Impulse. “When I saw what they can do with foiling solar or hydrogen powered boats, which lift off the water producing some tense races, and all this without noise or pollution, I thought this is something that needs to be encouraged,” he said of the 2017 edition. For this year’s competition, the YCM has in-

troduced a brand new concept with the Monaco Energy Class. Engineering students have been given a one-design catamaran hull for which the challenge is to build a cockpit, and design the most powerful and durable propulsion system possible from a given amount of energy. Bio fuel, battery, hydrogen, compressed air, LNG... The choice is wide, but it must be a clean source. “The aim is to highlight the enormous potential of our young engineers supported by the shipyards,” explains Marco Casiraghi, himself an engineer and the man behind the project. “We have a common goal, which is to work together to build the leisure boats of tomorrow.” 

THE PROGRAMME Trials will take place from 3.30pm on Thursday 12th, followed by tech talks at 5pm and an invitation-only cocktail event at 8pm. after the morning drivers’ briefing: the Monaco-ventimigliaMonaco endurance race (energy Class) will start at 10am on Friday 13th; a parade lap at 3pm; the speed record attempt at 3.30pm; and tech talks from 5pm. On Saturday 14th: one-on-one slalom qualifiers (energy Class) and the start of the Monaco-ventimiglia-Monaco endurance race (Offshore Class) at 10am; one-on-one slalom qualifiers (Solar and Offshore Class) at 10.30am; slalom finals from 2pm; and the closing dinner at 8pm. The paddock will be open to the public from 8.30am to 8pm every day.

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lifesTYle

compassion & innovaTion L. Raphael launches skin programme for young adults By ELSA CARPENTER

sraeli beauty entrepreneur Ronit Raphael has been at the forefront of innovation in her industry for more than 30 years. She was to be a dancer, but her plans changed course at 18 when, in an effort to treat her acne, she suffered second-degree burns following an ill-informed chemical peel. During the years that followed, Ronit consulted with leading dermatologists around the world and ultimately created her own brand today known as L. Raphael. Although her work has typically been directed towards her adult clients – L. Raphael is a pioneer in state-of-the-art treatments such as its Oxy-technologies and patented LEC 40 lipid complex – in 2018, she has returned to the roots of her experience by launching the Young Program for teenagers. “I specifically designed the Program to provide solutions to many of the common concerns young people have today,” she says from the rooftop terrace of her 900m² spa at the Hôtel

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Martinez in Cannes, “including acne and skin complaints, weight and issues linked to nutrition, and excessive body hair.” As a mother of three and a former sufferer of bad skin, Ronit is more than familiar with the blows these problems can inflict on self-confidence: “Watching my children come face-toface with similar challenges drives me to develop more and more effective solutions that can help them and other teenagers around the world.” The Young Program is available at all L. Raphael locations (Cannes, Geneva, Verbier, kazakhstan, New York and Beverly Hills) and takes the form of individual and group sessions to help build body-confidence: “True beauty radiates from the inside out and can have a major effect on a teenager’s self-esteem at an important growth phase of their lives.” When Riviera Insider met with Ronit during the Film Festival in May, she was also in the process of unveiling a new range for the over 30s: CollaJet. This ‘youth boosting’, multi-step treatment employs a pure oxygen jet technology and ampules containing the Argireline anti-wrinkle peptide and collagen. “The results can be noticed immediately after completing the treatment,” she says, “with clients telling us about the improved radiance, even tone and elasticity of their skin as well as a reduction of wrinkles and restored volume in their face, neck, décolleté and arms.”  www.l-raphael.com

Modern hub launches in Sophia Antipolis It’s taken so long for summer to finally get going that it hardly seems right for the shopping sales to be starting now! The bi-annual discount bonanza has already begun in the Var (and continues until 7th August) and will take place in the Alpes-Maritimes from 4th July to 14th August. The dates for the Monaco sales had not been announced by the government as we went to print. 

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lYlis côTe d'azur A new centre for cleansing & rejuvenation

lifesTYle

luxurY on The seven seas Cruises by the Ritz-Carlton itz-Carlton: two names that are synonymous with luxury and the highest levels of hospitality. As of 2020, the legendary hotel brand will be branching out into the world of the cruise with three custom-built megayachts designed to accommodate less than 300 guests. Destinations aboard the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection include the Caribbean, Northern Europe and the Baltic regions, Canada and New England, and crossing voyages, such as the two trips planned for the inaugural year: Bridgetown in Barbados to Portgual’s Lisbon (March) Reykjavík in Iceland to Halifax in Nova Scotia (September). The Mediterranean, of course, features on the annual itinerary and ports in Antibes, Cannes, Saint Tropez, Monaco and Corsica should all anticipate a visit from these splendid vessels. Each yacht will reportedly feature 149 suites, all with their own private terrace and dedicated assistant. A number of different dining and entertainment facilities have already been announced, such as a restaurant designed by chef Sven Elverfeld of Aqua, the three Michelin-starred restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Wolfsburg, Germany, and a champagne-caviar bar. Reservations are now open. www.ritzcarltonyachtcollection.com

he newly launched Lylis Côte d’Azur wellness centre focuses on providing its clients with the strength and energy to meet the growing demands of the modern day. The centre embraces a holistic approach to offer not only regeneration of the self, but also the tools to better understand the natural energy sources from which you can draw power.

Humans’ innate sensory abilities are the centre of this training facility’s curriculum. According to its founder Magali Mazzei, exploring and enhancing them to gain new knowledge will encourage rejuvenation in all aspects of your life: “Learn to harness the power of nature with a scientific approach.”  www.lylis.eu

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eco

nesTing Monaco seeks to attract new inhabitants hey won’t be coming with big bank balances or business empires, but Monaco is nevertheless keen to attract a new type of resident to the principality: the avians. In an area as built-up and urban as the Monegasque territory, it can be difficult for birds to find comfortable places to nest. To encourage in a variety of species – but in particular the Scops owl and kestrel – the Department of the Environment is installing a number of artificial nesting boxes in the parks and gardens of the principality. The project hopes to: encourage small insectivores to nest and provide natural pest control; raise awareness among citizens and young people of protecting biodiversity

as well as develop a general interest in nature conservation; and allow for increased studies and monitoring of bird populations for scientific purposes. 

a neW naTional park Parc Naturel Régional de la Sainte-Baume

a World firsT Monaco launches eco hot air balloon By ELSA CARPENTER

he Parc Naturel Régional de la Sainte-Baume was officially opened at the start of June. Spread across the greenery of 26 communes in the Var and Bouches-du-Rhône, it is France’s newest national park (there are now 52 in the country) and is situated between Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Toulon, the Calanques, Sainte-Victoire, the Massif des Maures, Verdon and Port-Cros. Its 81,000 hectares are home to nearly 60,000 people as well as a spectacularly rich biodiversity of more than 2,350 types of plants and animals. Over 200 protected species flourish here, such as: the Styrax Officinalis (a type of storax or snowbell that only grows wild in France in the Vallée du Gapeau); Bonelli’s eagle of which just 30 breeding couples remain in the country; the freshwater European pond turtle, indigenous to Provence; and the continent’s largest lizard, the ocellated lizard. The regional natural park of Sainte-Baume is also a place of outstanding geological beauty and diversity. Some of its most impressive locations include the Fontfrège glaciers, the Bauxite mines in Mazaugues, the Vallon de l'Infernet and Le Signal des Béguines (1,148m). The subterranean world is just as interesting as that above ground. The Petit Saint-Cassien, for example, is an eight-kilometre-long network of underground rivers, while the area’s deepest caves can be found on the Plateau de SiouBlanc (Cyclopibus at -370m and the Aven du Sarcophage at -340m). The unique topography of this landscape is something to be explored in all months of the year if you are to experience the best of its seasonal charms. 

fter 10 years of tentative tests, the world’s first environmentallyfriendly hot air balloon has successfully taken off from the Place du Palais on the Rock of Monaco in the presence of Prince Albert II – and landed safely in the town of Saluzzo in Piedmont, Italy. Pilots Alain Cruteanschii and Guy Bouckaert led the three-hour flight, which required a third of the usual 60kg of

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propane per 60 minutes. The balloon featured a ‘double jacket’ to reduce energy loss and was fitted with the same transponder used aboard Boeing 747s, which allowed it to be monitored by control towers and detected by nearby airplanes. Part of the Next Generation Project by the Aéronautes de Monaco society, the balloon can reach heights of 5,700 metres above ground (where temperatures can be -30°C). 

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business

belgravia celebraTes 1sT anniversarY Real estate in the heart of Nice lexandre Mamelli moved to the south of France from Paris, where he managed real estate transactions in the eighth arrondissement, just under a decade ago. In 2017, he launched his ‘warm and contemporary’ agency in the centre of Nice and is now pleased to be celebrating one year of successfully serving the immobilier needs of his international clientele. His years of experience have taught Alexandre the importance of listening to his clients and providing the very best in customer support. The Belgravia agency facilitates a range of real estate services – from buying to selling and professional expertise (contact with notaries, architects and trades) – as well as offering bespoke property searches for clients from outside of the region, whether that be the French

two apartMents oF 120M2 and 80M2 linked By an 80M2 terrace and 60M2 solariuM on the cours saleya: €3,450,000

capital or abroad. Alexandre’s dynamic and bi-lingual team aims to be that key support in the quest for the perfect pied à terre in the French Riviera. “Through our good reputation and special relationships with our clients, we have been able to achieve numerous sales with confidence and confidentiality over the past 12 months,” he says. “This has allowed us to greatly differentiate ourselves from other agencies in the area.” The Belgravia agency can be found in the city centre (54 Rue Gioffredo, 06000 Nice),

just 150 metres from Place Masséna. It specialises in property in Nice as well as the wider Côte d’Azur region and Paris.  www.belgravia.fr

hoW To be complianT WiTh immigraTion, Taxes & inTernaTional emploYmenT laW Advice from Riviera Insider’s legal partner Zoubaïda Bouzou ith immigration laws differing between nations, it can be difficult to keep up with those of your home and adopted country! Are you coming for studies, family or professional purposes? No matter if for a holiday or a business trip, you may need to deal with entry authorisations, track expiry dates and be prepared for renewal eventualities. In France, the Code for Entry and Residence of Foreigners and Right of Asylum (CESEDA or Code de l'Entrée et du Séjour des étrangers et du Droit d'Asile) is the main immigration law. Visas can be grouped into four categories: uniform visas for the Schengen area, short-stay visas allowing for establishment in France, mixed visas and long-stay visas. Different conditions apply for European and non-European citizens. For example, citizens of the European Union, European Economic Area, Switzerland, Andorra, Monaco, San Marino and

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the Vatican may stay in the European territory of France without a visa for longer than 90 days, which may not be the case for those from outside of these nations. Each status requires specific formalities and administrative procedures. It means that, for some, any stay in France exceeding 90 days will require an advance visa application. For a long-stay visa, the duration of your stay must be between three months and one year. In order to extend your stay beyond the period of validity of your visa, you must apply for a residence permit at your local préfecture. Specific categories are provided for scientists performing research work, artists, university lecturers and other teachers of higher learning, researchers, student interns, and students requesting the right to work (during a determined period). For example: if you come to France for business or work, you will have to complete all the

formalities allowing you to carry out your professional activity in France. Also, special provision is provided when a person is sent to France to open a representative office of a foreign company. It is the same for work authorisation and, by extent, just as immigration laws differ between nations, so too do tax laws. It is important to know how to navigate the shifting sands of international law and this often requires professional insight. In any situations, our law firm can assist you if you are planning to reside, work or invest in France and also if you represent a foreign company wishing to establish a base in France. Please don’t hesitate to contact us. 

 zoubaïda bouzou 12 avenue Malausséna 06000 nice tel.: +33(0)9 83 57 28 00 isegoria.conseils@gmail.com

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business

quesTion: are There anY bookkeeping obligaTions for a sociéTé civile immobilière?

ociété Civile Immobilière, also known as a SCI, is a special type of French company that is constituted for the ownership and management of real estate properties. This non-commercial company is usually set up to purchase a private home or to hold properties to let. The main reasons to choose a SCI are: - That it allows several shareholders to purchase the same property, - That it can facilitate the transfer and ownership of property,

- Its provisions for stability and continuity in the ownership and management of family property, - It can protect the family home from business creditors, - It creates tax advantages, - And avoids the constraints of French inheritance laws. Because of those potentials advantages, a lot of professional advisors consider it worthwhile to set up such a company, but many forget to advise you how to run this company effectively. There are a number of accounting, taxation and legal formalities to regularly fulfil and respect. Except in some special cases, no law currently exists in France that requires SCI to bookkeep. That said, efficient bookkeeping can be more than useful for shareholders. It allows a global vision about the financial situation of the company. The law authorises shareholders to be informed each year by the

double success for cmb Compagnie Monégasque de Banque wins banking awards or the second consecutive year, Compagnie Monégasque de Banque (CMB) has been named Best Customer Service Private Bank and Banking Ambassador in Monaco by international magazine The European. In collaboration with Thomson Reuters Group, the publication organises the annual European Global Banking & Finance Awards, where they honour different organisations – including financial institutions – that ‘stand out from the crowd and are consequently moving their industries forward’. Good governance, capacity to innovate, knowhow and quality of service are all major considerations. According to the organisers, the awards provide a comprehensive analysis of the ‘very best in all major market sectors globally’. “We are particularly proud and delighted to have been granted [the] awards,” says CMB CEO Werner Peyer. “CMB was awarded Best Private Bank and Banking Ambassador in Monaco by The European in 2017. Today we are once again being recognised for the exceptional quality of our customer services as well as being a private bank that upholds the values of the principality.”

director (gérant) of the SCI about the management, the income or the losses of the SCI. Such information has to be provided by the gérant of the SCI, but this is only possible if the bookkeeping is correctly done. If this is not the case, there is a risk that the French tax authorities will not accept the company as a proper legal entity. To avoid this risk, you have to prepare a set of annual accounts, hold an annual general meeting, maintain a company bank account and submit an annual tax return (declaration N°2072). Proper bookkeeping also enables shareholders to justify to the tax administration the amounts due by the company to its shareholders: these are the shareholders’ current accounts. In case of transfer of shares, the registration fees are calculated on the real value of the building, reduced by the debts, including

current accounts dues of the associates. Getting advice from a professional accountant for the incorporation and during the life of the SCI will help you to make better informed decisions. The challenges of the transmission are so important that the annual costs of this service will be quickly forgotten when the moment comes...

Jean-philippe gioanni Chartered Accountant - Legal Auditor 1 rue Montaigne, Cannes +33 (0)4 93 06 63 06 www.concertae.com

CMB has been a firm fixture on the region’s banking scene since 1976 and specialises in investment advice. It also offers a diversified range of tailor-made products and services, such as asset and wealth management, and financing adapted to the specific needs of each investor. “Because of the long-term relationships with its clients and a highly skilled workforce, but foremost thanks to the trust clients place in CMB, the bank has been able to reach 12 billion euros of assets under management to date,” says a company spokesperson.  www.cmb.mc

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Riviera Press’

spring rendezvous aT The mas candille

We asked for sun on 17th April and that is what we got! It was the first mild day of the year so the perfect opportunity to celebrate the spring. Riviera Press welcomed 150 guests of different nationalities to the fabulous Le Mas Candille, a five-star hotel, spa and restaurant in Mougins. Tesla’s innovative range of cars provided a special welcome to the resort and our guests gathered around the swimming pool to chat well into the evening. A pass for a spa day at Le Mas Candille was one of the top prizes to be given away along with a handbag by NUE 19.04, a watch from Zeades and an annual subscription to the Fitlane gym network. Of course, our wonderful partners also helped contribute to the success of the evening and many a glass was raised: Are Mineral Water, Blue Coast Brewing Company, Château de l'Aumerade, Comptoir du Caviar, Néron Glacier, Shake Your Events and our hosts, the team at Le Mas Candille!

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(1) The ice cream of Louis and Carolina Dubois from Néron Glacier proved very popular (2) Beer on tap by the Blue Coast Brewing Company (3) Long-standing friends of RivieraZeit: Marina and Hans-Jürgen Bäumler (4) Magali Mazzei of Anahataflow in Grasse with her guard dog (5) L-R: Hans-Jürgen Bäumler; kathrin Weihnacht from the Austrian Consulate in Monaco; Jürgen kempf from the AFA Board; Petra Hall, Editor-in-Chief of Riviera Press; and Michael kurtz (6) L-R: Bich Lecourt, Managing Director of Riviera Press; Nicola Fagiuoli of Dermaceutic Laboratoire; and Audrey Talayrach from Eneomey (7) Petra Hall & Hanno klausmeier, CEO of SAP Labs France (8) L-R: Beathe-Jeanette Lunde, President of the American Club of the Riviera; Elsa Carpenter, Editor of Riviera Insider; and Orchestral Conductor Cindy Egolf

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(9) Jeanine Biache of Air France and her husband (10) L-R: Thomas Mund Hoym with his wife, a guest and Hanno klausmeier (11) Jean-Philippe Gioanni from Concertae Cannes (12) Matthias Waechter, the German Honorary Consul in Nice and his wife (13) Prize winners of the lottery (L-R): Audrey Talayrach of Eneomey; Hélène Simon Le Bihan from Héline First; and Nicola Fagiuoli, Dermaceutic Laboratoire (14) Evelin kratofiel from Carlton International (15) Corinne Le Gall of the Carita Institute and her husband (16) L-R: Nathalie Ludwig of Ludwig Interior Mougins and Elena Minello from Temps & Passions Monaco (17) The delicious wines of the Château de l'Aumerade vineyard and the crystal clear waters of Are were very well-received

JulY / augusT 2018

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french riviera & monaco

Events ALL SUMMER LONG ALPES-MARITIMES les soirées esTivales Organised and funded by the Alpes-Maritimes, an extensive range of free cultural events from concerts to theatre, cinema, dance and poetry www.soireesestivales.departement06.fr

30TH JUNE TO 7TH JULY SOSPEL les baroquiales A week-long festival in honour of the rich Baroque past of the Roya and Bévéra valleys, with concerts, theatre, exhibitions, lectures and much more www.sospel.fr

1ST JULY ESCRAGNOLLES donkeY fesTival This village on the Route Napoléon celebrates its annual Fête aux Ânes with donkeys, market stalls and children’s activity in the town square www.escragnolles.fr

2ND JULY TO 4TH AUGUST CÔTE D'AZUR & PROVENCE music fesTival The 14th edition of the Festival Provençal des Jeunes Orchestras featuring young musicians offers 30 free concerts in various venues www.provencalfestival.com

7TH JULY LORGUES fesTival voix en vigne Château Roubine celebrates the 10th anniversary of the music festival within its grounds from 9pm www.chateauroubine.com

7TH JULY TO 25TH AUGUST SAINTE-MAXIME summer dJ’s parTY Al fresco DJ sets with all the trapping at the Théâtre de la Mer from 9.30pm to 1am www.sainte-maxime.com

8TH & 29TH JULY LA COLMIANE les folies des lacs Concerts on the shores of a Mercantour lake with classical music, jazz and blues from 2.30pm www.colmiane.com

8TH JULY TO 19TH AUGUST MONACO 13Th fesTival inTernaTional d'orgue Various dates for the renowned international organ festival at the Cathedral of Monaco www.festivalorguemonaco.com

10TH JULY CANNES sTing Former frontman of Police and legendary solo artist Sting performs with Shaggy at the Palais des Festivals from 9pm www.palaisdesfestivals.com

12TH JULY GOLFE-JUAN big reggae fesTival Damian Marley, Naâman and Andrew Tosh play at the Théâtre de la Mer from 7pm www.bigreggaefestival.com

12TH TO 14TH JULY L'été Danse parT of The monaco dance forum is dedicated to the memory of Ingmar Bergman: Thoughts on Bergman by Alexander Ekman, 4 karin by Johan Inger and Memory by Mats Ek & Ana Laguna (all from 8pm at the Salle Garnier) www.balletsdemontecarlo.com

12TH TO 22ND OF JULY

27TH JULY

JUAN-LES-PINS Jazz À Juan One of the biggest musical events of the summer at the Pinède Gould www.jazzajuan.com

MONACO red cross gala A gala in aid of the charity association with a performance by Seal at the Salle des Etoiles www.montecarlolive.com

12TH JULY TO 5TH AUGUST MONACO monTe-carlo philharmonic orchesTra A stunning series of concerts will take place in the Cour d'Honneur of the Palais Princier www.opmc.mc

14TH TO 18TH JULY CAGNES-SUR-MER un soir chez renoir Four evenings of free concerts under the ancient olive trees around the Renoir Museum... Bring blankets and pillows! www.cagnes-tourisme.com

16TH TO 21ST JULY NICE nice Jazz fesTival Headliners include Gregory Porter, Massive Attack and Deva Mahal at the Place Masséna and Théâtre de Verdure www.nicejazzfestival.fr

19TH JULY TO 16TH AUGUST SAINT RAPHAEL les Jeudis live Each Thursday night, enjoy concerts at the Palais des Congrès: Jonasz Quartet, kool & The Gang, Anne Roumanoff, Julien Clerc, Piaf le Spectacle www.directoproductions.com

20TH JULY MONACO meeTing inTernaTional d'aThléTisme herculis The world’s greatest athletes compete at the Louis II stadium info@herculis.com

21ST TO 28TH JULY LE THORONET concerT series The Cistercian monastery of Le Thoronet hosts the International Classical Music Festival www.musique-medievale.fr

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27TH JULY TO 11TH AUGUST MENTON fesTival de musique de menTon Classical music in a magical place: the medieval Saint Michel Archange Basilica www.menton.fr

31ST JULY CANNES beTh diTTo Beth Ditto performs at 9pm at the Palais des Festivals www.palaisdesfestivals.com

8TH TO 11TH AUGUST SAINT JEAN CAP FERRAT fesTival sainT Jazz cap ferraT Jazz and blues in the Jardin de la Paix from 9pm www.saintjeancapferrattourisme.fr

21ST TO 26TH AUGUST MONACO palermo-monTe carlo A sailing regatta organised by the Yacht Club de Monaco www.yacht-club-monaco.mc

23RD TO 27TH AUGUST CANNES fesTival de l'arT russe Travel Russia’s cultural landscape at the Palais des Festivals www.palaisdesfestivals.com

Exhibitions UNTIL 31ST OF AUGUST ANTIBES concours annuel du meilleur Photographe de la Nature A series award-winning nature photographs are displayed in Marineland Antibes after being previously hosted at the Natural History Museum in London www.marineland.fr

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21st & 28th July – 4th & 11th August 2018

PORT DE MONACO

Concerts at 8.30pm and 10.20pm in July, and 8pm and 9.50pm in August

ITALY

SPAIN

PORTUGAL

BULGARIA

21st July at 10pm

28th July at 10pm

4th August at 9.30pm

11th August at 9.30pm

Find the programme and vote for your favourite at:

www.monaco-feuxdartifice.mc

Until mid-October 2018, discover the history and heritage of the Menton, Riviera & Merveilles’ coastal and alpine villages. From €49 per adult and per trip (€15 for under 12s), eight day-long excursions and a number of evening experiences are available every week from Tuesday to Thursday, and leaving from the Menton Tourism Oﬃce (conﬁrmed departure from 10 reservations).

CIRCUIT 1 The Hilltop Villages: SainteAgnès, Gorbio & Roquebrune village

CIRCUIT 3 Ancient Monuments & Medieval Vestiges in La Turbie, Roquebrune & Gorbio

CIRCUIT 5 Artistic Heritage & Cultural Traditions in the Roya Valley (Tende & La Brigue)

CIRCUIT 7 The Great Sites of the Maginot Line (Sospel, Sainte-Agnès & Cap-Martin)

CIRCUIT 2 The Religious Heritage of Sospel & Castellar

CIRCUIT 4 The Upper Roya Valley (Breil, Fontan & Saorge)

CIRCUIT 6 Nature & History in the Bevera Valley (Sospel, L’Authion & Moulinet)

TOUR Discover Menton

EVENING EXPERIENCES

EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS THIS SUMMER

Fête de la Saint-Eloi in Tende, 7th July

Festival de Flamenco in Gorbio, 17th August

Cinematic projection at the Trophée d’Auguste in La Turbie, 27th July

Saﬀron Harvest in Sospel, 18th October

Festival des Mandolines in Castellar, 18th July

Fête de l’Orme in Gorbio, 9th September

The Truﬄe Market in Beausoleil 15th September

Fo r m o re i n fo r m a t i o n & re s e r va t i o n s : www.exc u r s i o n s - r i v i e ra .f r

JulY / augusT 2018

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7TH JULY TO 9TH SEPTEMBER

UNTIL 23RD SEPTEMBER

UNTIL 6TH JANUARY 2019

monaco The Gold of the Pharaohs 2,500 years of the goldsmith’s art at the Grimaldi Forum www.grimaldiforum.com

GRASSE parfums d’inTerdiT Daring artwork and Provençal lingerie from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century at the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard and Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou www.museesdegrasse.com

MONACO Tom Wesselmann The Villa Paloma of the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco presents this unique artist www.nmnm.mc

UNTIL 16TH SEPTEMBER NICE sporTY bodY More than 150 artistic works focusing on the athletic body at the Musée National du Sport www.museedusport.fr

UNTIL 30TH SEPTEMBER

UNTIL 17TH SEPTEMBER BIOT vis-a-vis : maTisse To francis bacon The exhibition explores the friendship and artistic exchange between Fernand Léger and the artists of his time www.musees-nationauxalpesmaritimes.fr

liguria

Events ALL SUMMER LONG

GRASSE & MOUANS-SARTOUX armand scholTès: Jardinier des formes Landscapes of the well-known contemporary French artist are displayed at the International Perfumery Museum and its Gardens www.museesdegrasse.com

GENOA porTo anTico esTaTespeTTacolo A rich and internationally-flavoured summer programme of cinema, music, dance and theatre at the Piazza delle Feste and Arena del Mare www.visitgenoa.it

UNTIL 15TH OCTOBER

1ST TO 31ST JULY

NICE delachapelleaumusée,la créaTiondumessagebiblique The development of biblical influences in the work of Marc Chagall www.musee-chagall.fr

GENOA goa boa music fesTival A variety of concerts in the Arena del Mare of Porto Antico www.goaboa.it

5TH JULY TO 30TH AUGUST DOLCEACQUA apericasTello Guided tour of the Doria Castle every Thursday from 6pm followed by a Rossese wine tasting and a specialty tasting www.dolceacqua.it

6TH JULY & 3RD AUGUST

2018

CERVO guided Tour Discover the magic of Cervo with these free guided walks from 6pm (meeting point: bus stop at the base of the old town) www.rivieraeventi.it

Maarché c és

6TH TO 8TH JULY

expositio ions estivales esti l

SUMM MER M R SE SEA EASON A ON N 20 18 #summervalbonnee

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www.vaalbonne.fr

GARLENDA fiaT 500 meeT 35th International FIAT 500 Meeting at the Parco Villafranca and Parco Serre www.500clubitalia.it

7TH & 28TH JULY & 4TH, 8TH, 18TH & 24TH AUGUST DIANO MARINA esTaTe musicale dianese Opera and operetta concert series at Villa Scarsella www.dianomarina.gov.it

7TH JULY TO 19TH AUGUST BORGIO VEREZZI fesTival TeaTrale Open-air theatre at the Piazza Sant'Agostino www.festivalverezzi.it

11TH JULY TO 22ND AUGUST ALASSIO riviera music fesTival A concert series in the Luca Ferrari marina www.alassio.riviera-musicfestival.it

12TH TO 14TH JULY FINALE LIGURE pesTo d’amare Everything pesto! www.turismo.comunefinaleligu re.it

12TH & 26TH JULY & 2ND, 9TH & 23RD AUGUST SANREMO sYmphonY orchesTra Concerts at the Parco di Villa Ormond www.sinfonicasanremo.it

14TH JULY TO 29TH AUGUST CERVO fesTival inTernazionale di musica da camera Traditional chamber music festival with high-calibre musicians in the square in front of the Corallini Church, Oratorio Santa Caterina and Parco del Ciapà www.cervofestival.com

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SUMM MER NI GHTS

Photos : Istock

F R O M J U LY 1 3 T H T O A U G U S T 2 5 T H

ENTRA ANCE

4.50 € FREE ADMISSION UNDER 18

hippodr ome-co t edazur. com

T R O T R A C E S • S H O W S & F I R E W O R K S • F R E E A C T I V I T I E S F O R C H I L D R E N • PA N O R A M I C R E S TA U R A N T S • F R E E PA R K I N G

JulY / augusT 2018

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a sensaTional summer

his summer, Europe’s leading business networking and premium gourmet wine club is toasting 15 years of success in servicing a wide selection of international partners. Based in the Principality of Monaco, Club Vivanova brings together a stimulating group of dynamic professionals and international entrepreneurs at unique locations for the enjoyment of the finer essences of life whilst building new business opportunities. www.clubvivanova.com

upcoming evenTs

With Club vivanova

eden mill launch party

Join The club CLUB VIVANOVA is the region’s fastest growing expat club and offers a range of exciting gourmet and cultural events across the Côte d’Azur and abroad. If you are not a Club Vivanova member, but are interested in joining, membership is €120 and runs for 365 days from the day you join. New members receive three bottles of premium New World wines by courier as a complimentary gift as well as numerous other benefits listed on the website, such as a free edition of Riviera Insider and VIP entrance to member-only events throughout the year.

Onshore Cellars, Antibes Friday 13th July

café du Jardin rosé magnum party Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Èze Thursday 19th July

monaco better World forum gala Yacht Club de Monaco, Monaco Saturday 22nd September

barolo Wine & Truffle Weekend Monforte d’Alba & Barolo, Italy Saturday 10th & Sunday 11th November For the calendar & more information: www.clubvivanova.com/events

Photo 1 MAY DAY AT THE CHâTEAU DE LA CHèVRE D’OR Photo 2 2018 LUxURY LIFESTYLE GALA AT THE FAIRMONT MONTE CARLO Photo 3 VODKA23 LAUNCH AT WINE PALACE MONTE-CARLO Photo 4 CHâTEAU DE POMMARD LAUNCH AT THE FAIRMONT MONTE CARLO

JulY / augusT 2018

free entrance

LATE OPENING July & August:

Until September:

Open Monday to Saturday from 5pm to 1.30am Open Sunday from 3pm to 1.30am

Open every day from 8pm to 1am azurpark.fr

ON THE RN7, CLOSE TO MARINELAND

antibesland.fr

Discover promotional offers & discount from our partners:

n er to ee b ts tw em ke ! be ept tic how e ib -S ee S cr id fr ht bs d m wo ac Su an e t co Y ly eiv a Ju rec Mon d e an th

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Bank transfer & direct debit information: caisse d’epargne côte d’azur iBan: Fr76 1831 5100 0008 0067 1222 415 swiFt/Bic: cepaFrpp831

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helping reTired expaTs across The region Riviera Lifeline By NICOLE RUSKELL

arm weather, brilliant sunshine and the aroma of wisteria welcomed the local Anglo community to the Grange in Mouans-Sartoux for the launch of Riviera Lifeline at the end of April. As guests enjoyed generous hors d’oeuvres and free-flowing refreshments, president of the organisation Deborah Corley spoke about its mission. Previously part of Sunny Bank, a charity that has been helping Anglophone residents of the Côte d’Azur since the 19th century, Riviera Lifeline has now set out on its own, differentiating the services they provide. While Sunny Bank offers in-house assisted living, Riviera Lifeline provides assistance to seniors in their homes, working to ensure they stay active, healthy and independent. According to Deborah, the goal of the launch was to get the word out about the services they offer the community and to gain support through increased membership and volunteers. “Old people aren’t sexy,” she said to Riviera Insider in a reference to the fact that talking about senior’s needs often doesn’t get the attention it should. The organisation has plenty of funds to help people, but they need more volunteers to offer their time and expertise, she continued to explain. Riviera Lifeline covers an

the riviera liFeline coMMittee (l-r): carolyn clark-whittaker, richard henField, shirley wrigglesworth, deBorah cortey, Martin Bagshaw and catherine wright © Michael Kenington

area from the Var to the Italian border, and can usually respond to requests within a day. It offers a wide range of assistance, from helping with food shopping to walking a dog after an injury or financial assistance in buying a hearing aid. The organisation also helps with more involved issues like negotiating with landlords to refit a bathroom for mobility issues. Some of the cases can require complicated legal assistance for surviving spouses, and Riviera Lifeline can be there to provide language assistance with French paperwork and help retirees know their rights regarding French and Uk pensions. Sometimes someone may simply need a little support to stretch their fixed monthly budget: “You’d be surprised the number of people we pay €30

per month to help with their electric bill.” Deborah was clear to emphasise that their support is non-denominational, non-judgmental and though they focus on Anglophones 60 years and over, they will assist any nationality in need: “We will help anybody.” Riviera Lifeline is always looking for more volunteers, especially those who would like to call and have chat with a lonely senior. Deborah pointed out that loneliness is the biggest problem in old age, and a simple phone call can make a great difference in someone’s life. If you would like to volunteer, or know someone who needs assistance, visit the website for more information.  www.rivieralifeline.org

riviera insider on Tour

aFter a lovely lunch at la gaudinade in Mougins, riviera insider editor elsa carpenter, Françoise Muller FroM our advertising teaM and rivieraZeit editor aila stöckMann stopped For a quick photo with gaBriël sterk's Bust oF picasso on the place des patriotes JulY / augusT 2018

Mille Mercis to christian Morisset oF le Figuier de saint-esprit For treating rivieraZeit editor aila stöckMann and riviera insider editor elsa carpenter to a truly wonderFul lunch under the shade oF his Fig tree in old antiBes

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Women of The Year Monte-Carlo award celebrates sporting personalities n mid-May, the Prix MonteCarlo Femme de l’Année honoured its winners for 2018 under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco and the ceremony’s honorary president Princess Charlene. The theme for this year’s event, which took place in the elegant Salle d’Or of the Fairmont Monte-Carlo, was Women and Sport. Frenchwoman and adventure rally driver Géraldine Rey was crowned Woman of the Year for her ‘contribution to facilitating the development of women in auto sports’ as well as her positive efforts to help the disadvantaged around the world. Russian pole-vaulter and Olympic gold medallist Yelena Isinbaeva received MonteCarlo Woman of the Year for using her fame to help children in need and support others in discovering their sporting talents. She has also launched her own charitable foundation and is

l-r: yelena isinBaeva, julie gautier, cinZia sgaMBati-colMan, prince alBert, ornella Barra and géraldine rey. © Axel Bastello / PalaisPrincier

a Champion of Peace for the Monaco-based Peace and Sport Foundation. Swiss woman Isabelle Henchoz was given the Special Award for Woman of the Year, for dedicating her life to helping others, and facilitating the practice of sports for disabled people. Following the ceremony, Prince Albert received

the winning ladies at the Palais Princier in the presence of Cinzia Sgambati-Colman, award president, and Ornella Barra, the co-COO of Walgreens Boots Alliance, Inc., which sponsors the Prix. A theme has already been set for the 2019 edition: Women of Art and Science.  www.prixmontecarlofda.com

Top class deliverY HDS Limousine rom this summer, clients travelling in HDS Limousine’s fleet of luxury vehicles will now be able to browse our magazines – Riviera Insider in English, RivieraZeit in German and Palaces in English and French – at their leisure. Located in Cannes, the chauffeured car company operates across the French Riviera, from Saint Tropez to San Remo via Monaco. Need a collection from the Nice Côte d’Azur Airport or transfer to your hotel or place of business? The Mercedes S Class or E Class will provide the comfort and class to suit your destination. Maybe the whole team has flown down to the south of France for a conference, seminar or event. Then you’ll need the spacious Mercedes V Class or Volkswagen Transporter T6! It is worth noting that HDS Limousine is also well-versed in the changeable demands of the yachting industry and regularly works with vessels owners and brokers to provide a fluid service. Ever keen to provide the highest quality of service, add-ons offered by HDS Limousine director Harry Amar and his team include: bilingual drivers; a VIP service with clients’ pre-determined preference of drinks, newspapers and amenities such as refreshing towels; and guided tours of the region.  www.hds-limousine.com

JulY / augusT 2018

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riviera

expaT focus: Jessica buchanan hat first brought you to W the french riviera? I first arrived in January 2007 to attend the exclusive Grasse Institute of Perfumery for one year – it only takes 12 students per annum! I had never been to France before and the whole thing seemed like a dream. I chose the school mostly because the region is so well-known for its production of natural raw materials. With my background in essential oils and clinical aromatherapy in Canada, this was important for me. The Mediterranean climate was also very appealing... can you tell us about your company 1000 flowers? I studied essential oil therapy with the American College of Health Sciences and launched my company in Canada in 2000 with a collection of natural body care products that I had created. This eventually led me to natural perfumery, and in 2005, I launched four perfumes. It seemed good business strategy to go to France to study formally in the field of perfumery so I made the huge decision to sell my house in JulY / augusT 2018

Canada to make it happen. I don't think I really understood what I was getting myself in to – as one doesn't when planning to make a massive change – but the idea seemed logical at the time! After a year of intensive training, I stayed on for an internship at Mane et Fils in Bar-sur-Loup. I then applied to a business incubator in Grasse and was accepted. This was how I was able to apply for a visa and continue my project in France. It made more sense to be based in Grasse than in Canada, which doesn’t have an active perfume industry and certainly doesn't have the pedigree that Grasse has. Last November, after 10 years in my private lab, I finally opened the first bricks-and-mortar 1000 Flowers Perfumer boutique and atelier on Place aux Aires in Grasse. This has been a real joy for me: to work more publicly and to meet people from all over the world who come to Grasse to find perfume. perfume continues to be big business in grasse: how is the industry doing and what do you see happening in the future? Grasse has actually been known

for its unique quality of floral botanical products for hundreds of years. The fragrance houses like Chanel have always sourced here, especially their rose and jasmine. That hasn’t changed since the launch of Chanel No.5 in 1921. Even during WWII, when the production of the fragrance moved to the US, the story goes that they found a way to import the raw materials from Grasse. Now, other big brands are returning to Grasse too. The quality of the absolutes from the roses, jasmine, tuberose and iris that are grown here, for example, are unique in their fragrance profile. That is the magic of botanical raw materials: they are formed by their environment, the soil, the water, the particular elements they are grown in... Grasse has a unique micro-climate that influences the plants grown here. This is also why the Grasse application for candidature is being considered by UNESCO. The final vote regarding whether the city is accepted onto the list of Intangible Heritage will be this autumn. And all of that is why I stayed. I knew as an artist – a scent artist – that this is the mecca in which to learn and grow, and to develop. For the future in Grasse, it will be nice to see more artisan and independent perfumers coming here to hone their craft and for the flower fields to become more numerous and not so monopolised by the big brands. There is so much potential in Grasse, and so much expertise and wisdom. It's such an honour to be part of it! When you’re away from your desk, where do you like to spend time in the region? Of course, life here is not all work in the lab or in front of the perfumer's organ. When I can, I like to see the wild lavender that grows up in the mountains near Gréolières or to Tanneron to see the mimosa blooming. Even just having a picnic lunch in a shady corner of the Jardins du Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie in Mouans-Sartoux! Being a perfumer means that we're pretty much always tuned in to scent so that means always choosing activities that are pleasant for the nose. Luckily, in the Pays de Grasse, there are always flowers in season and things to do that smell good! As a perfumer, it makes sense to make my life here. As an expat? It's not easy, of course, but it's a good challenge, and that's what life is for right?!

publishing director SEBASTIEN FRAISSE s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr Managing director BICH LECOURT b.lecourt@riviera-press.fr editor-in-chief PETRA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr editor ELSA CARPENTER e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr contributors Aila Stöckmann, Lewis Longman, Sarah Hyde, Michael Molloy, Nicole Ruskell, Rolf Liffers & Malte Rohwer-kahlmann creative director VINCENT ARTUS vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr advertising & pr FRANCOISE MULLER Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 29 f.muller@riviera-press.fr PATRICE SAINT-LEGER Tel: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 p.saintleger@riviera-press.fr DANIEL NARO Tel: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 d.naro@riviera-press.fr distribution DOMINIQUE FREULON Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 d.freulon@riviera-press.fr secretary CAROLE HEBERT contact@riviera-press.fr Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. Articles do not represent the opinion of the Editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct contents of ads. © 2018 by Riviera Press s.a.r.l.

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