Riviera Insider - March/April 2018

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GOURMET A Michelin star guide to the Côte d'Azur

MONACO 3d-printed coral reefs & prince Albert’s 60th

TRAVEL New Age camping in the south of France & italy

COMMUNITY ANZAC day: Antibes honours the fallen

riviera see more, do more, know more

REAL ESTATE SPECIAL

A 28-pAge dossier:

Where is best to invest?

# 177 march / aPril 2018 4,90 € The

english-language

magazine

for

The

french

riviera

&

monaco

since

2002



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EDITORIAL By PETRA HALL

There have been many among our readers who have complained about the unpleasant weather and the lack of sunshine in the Uk over the last few months. indeed, the winter of 2017/2018 has been one of the darkest and snowiest in recent decades thanks to La Niña. in certain regions, there were as little as five sunny hours registered during one month… it is unbelievable for lucky us living in the south! Here, two or three rainy days are already enough to put people in a bad mood and that’s without even mentioning the traffic chaos that ensues each time the clouds hang heavy. it’s a well-known fact that too little sun can cause sadness and depression. The latest scientific research suggests that the lack of sunshine not only triggers undersupply of vitamin d, but seems also to increase the risk of osteoporosis, cancer, cardiovascular diseases, infections and Alzheimer’s.

but it’s not my intention to instill fear in you, dear readers. You needn’t worry anyway… it only takes a couple of hours to reach the Côte d’Azur or, even better, you make the French riviera your place of residence. Take a look at our real estate special from pages 12 to 39 and you will find plenty of good advice for doing just that. sure, we can’t guarantee nice weather all the time, but the dark clouds don’t usually stay for a long time. With this hope, we wish you a happy, sunny easter!

THE TEAM

eLsA CArpeNTer

AiLA sTöCkMANN

CAroLe HéberT

doMiNiQUe FreULoN

biCH LeCoUrT

ViNCeNT ArTUs

FrANÇoise MULLer

pATriCe sAiNT-Leger

25 years ago, Petra Hall (Riviera Insider’s editor-inchief) founded the newspaper riviera Côte d’Azur Zeitung in german, which was followed by The riviera Times in 2003. These titles have now blossomed under the names riviera insider and rivieraZeit into attractive, contemporary magazines. The goal from the beginning was to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights from the Mediterranean written by professional mother-tongue journalists. petra Hall has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape. Elsa Carpenter (managing director) joined the team in spring 2016 with fresh ideas and a modern vision for the magazine. Having worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years - some of you may recognise her name - she is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers. Bich Lecourt (managing director) was born in Antibes. since completing her phd in economics, she has worked in sophia Antipolis so is well-acquainted with the business ecosystem and atmosphere of the French riviera. From architecture to interior design and décor, bich likes discovering new parts of the region and enjoying the quintessential Côte d’Azur lifestyle. Aila Stöckmann (editor of RivieraZeit) has been divulging her passion for and her knowledge of the Côte d’Azur with our readers for more than ten years. The german born mother-of-two loves the region, the sun, the beautiful landscape and – obviously – the german language magazine rivieraZeit.

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The Niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer. Carole Hébert (secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly. Françoise Muller (sales & marketing) is originally from dijon, but has been living and working on the Côte d'Azur since 1993. For 14 years, she has thrived on her work in the communications and marketing industry, and is now a new and enthusiastic member of our team. Her hobbies include literature and sports. Dominique Freulon (events & distribution), who was born in paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. she is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature. Patrice Saint-Léger (sales & marketing) has been working in the communications sector for more than ten years. After studying business administration and entrepreneurship, our Cannes-born publicist discovered his passion in the advertising business – for its creativity and aesthetics. during his free time, his interests lie in sports and nature. march / aPril 2018


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Issue #177 see More, do More, kNoW More

Culture spring/summer agenda: art & culture in the principality of Monaco

The Hotlist Top news & trends

Cover photo A HISTORIC PROPERTY IN CAP D’AIL © Engel & Völkers

6 Real Estate A 28-page dossier

12 Monaco Unknown Monaco: The principality reforms its underwater landscape with 3d printed reefs

40 prince Albert turns 60

44 below photo ONE OF SIX 3D PRINTED REEFS IS LOWERED INTO MONEGASQUE WATERS © J. M. Mille / AMPN

reporting from the Yacht Club de Monaco: the latest news & events

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48 Where art thou? A review of current & upcoming events

50 Sport Allez, c’est parti at soccer park Antibes

52 The magic of the rolex Monte-Carlo Masters

54 extreme appeal of Liguria: how Finale Ligure became a global sporting destination

56 golf de Valescure: where golf has been played for over 100 years

58

Travel New Age camping in the south of France & italy

62 Gourmet gastronomic excellence: a Michelin star guide to the French riviera

68 reader tips: all Cannes has to offer

69 old town charm in Le Cannet’s bistro saint saveur

70 Yachting YCM’s 10th business symposium: emerging markets & future generations of owners

72 Events see more, do more, known more this spring

74 Riviera Press soirée at the Marriott AC Hotel Nice

76 Community ANZAC day: Antibes honours the fallen

80 Expat Focus photographer paul oatway

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Art goes underground CARRIèRES DE LUMIèRES CELEBRATES THE SPANISH MASTERS

in the depths of the Les grand Fonds quarry (now known as the Carrières de Lumières) at the foot of Les baux-deprovence, a new exhibition entitled picasso & les Maitres espagnols will open on 2nd March. Until January 2019, visitors can walk the towering underground halls of the site, which was first opened as a quarry in the 19th century, and enjoy the colourful artworks of some of spain’s most celebrated artists. The first section of the exhibition presents portraits and everyday scenes painted by goya, rusiñol, Zuloaga, and sorolla. The second portion is dedicated exclusively to picasso, as one of the most important artists of the 20th. The exhibition has been designed as an immersive experience of iberian art from picasso’s era and the pieces have been brought into the digital age thanks to cutting edge AMieX® technical equipment, which uses hundreds of projectors to create moving images of digitised works on the quarry’s interior walls. The venue is now in its seventh season as a gallery space, but has already welcomed some three million visitors for prior events featuring the likes of Chagall, gauguin, van gogh and the italian renaissance artists.  www.carrieres-lumieres.com PABLO PICASSO, LES DEMOISELLES D’AVIGNON, 1907, HUILE SUR TOILE, MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORk © SUCCESSION PICASSO 2018 © Bridgeman Images

THE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE OF LES BAUX-ENPROVENCE

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Nice Ultimed From 25th April to 6th May, Nice will host a major sailing event unlike any the city – or the Mediterranean – has experienced before. billed as an XXL boat race featuring the largest racing boats in the world alongside the sport’s finest skippers, Nice Ultimed is inviting ultimate-class trimarans to the shores of the Côte d’Azur. Following an ‘off-shore sprint’ format, the courses will combine off-shore racing with that of a nautical stadium. “The aim of this event is to give fans in the Mediterranean area the opportunity to enjoy the amazing spectacle of these mind-boggling big boats,” says the event’s director, Jean-baptiste durier. “They are longer than a basketball court, have a height of 35 metres – equivalent to a 10-storey building – and derive their power from their sails, which have a surface area equal to that of 2.5 tennis courts!” racing will begin in the baie des Anges before the yachts set off to Corsica, sardinia and the balearic islands, later returning to the coastline of the south of France. in the run-up to the main event, on 27th April, the sail boats will depart from Marseille on a cruise along the Côte d’Azur – an excellent opportunity for some casual spectating from the shore. “We have never seen anything like this in the Mediterranean,” says Mayor of Nice Christian estrosi. “it is a wonderful opportunity for Nice to reach a new milestone in its ambition to consolidate its great nautical traditions.” proud of his city and its accomplishments, during the planning of the event, estrosi insisted that local Niçois skipper Jean-pierre dick be its patron: “He is a great skipper, an authentic champion and a magnificent ambassador for sailing in Nice.” recently crowned winner of the Transat Jacques Vabre, dick says, “The latest gems of ocean racing are coming to Nice. it’s an outstanding event that should not be missed!” www.niceultimed.com

THE BIGGEST BOATS, THE GREATEST SkIPPERS

The sea & you The French Ministry for an ecological and inclusive Transition (most often referred to as the Ministry of ecology) is asking for public assistance with strategies for the protection and conservation of the country’s coastline and waters. Focusing on four zones – the Mediterranean, the North sea and the eastern half of the Channel, the western half of the Channel and the northern section of Atlantic coast, and the southern part of the Atlantic coast – a dedicated website forum poses questions such as: What do you think are the major ecological challenges? Which areas should be reserved for renewable energy developments, fishing and/or yachting? How can we improve the management of maritime activities in your area? You have until 25th March to contribute your ideas and opinions via www.merlittoral2030.gouv.fr. march / aPril 2018


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More sand, please The winter months were almost as busy as those of summer for Cannes’ shoreline as 80,000 cubic metres of sand were transported onto the already artificial beach. since the 1960s, when the first major widening operation took place, not much has been done to maintain the 1.4 kilometrelong plage. The engraissement operation will increase the width of the beach up to 40 metres in places from the current 25 to 30 metres. it is hoped that this extra room for manoeuvring will reduced the likelihood of flooding for establishments operating on the beach. Like in many other coastal towns and cities in the French riviera, several restaurants and bars on the beach were closed in Cannes after the 2017 summer season. some will reopen – legally this time – for the summer, but there will be less than before, meaning more free public space. in the near future, the famous Croisette will also receive attention with the construction of a new bikeway and revamped surfaces. 

OPERATION ENGRAISSEMENT

The new Silk Road EU-CHINESE FASHION VENTURE IN MARSEILLE

From Chinese fabric to italian leather, the newly inaugurated MiF 68 fashion centre in Marseille hopes to establish the city and its port Fos as one of the Mediterranean’s biggest wholesale centres. set over 60,000 square metres, the centre will serve as a platform for exchange in the textile industry. it will also facilitate the import of global goods and export of French brands. designed by Mathieu Cherel, the centre consists of hundreds of old shipping containers – mostly in black with the occasional colour accent – stacked and positioned to create 68 boutiques and showrooms spaces. The site is strategically located opposite the grand Littoral shopping centre, just two minutes from the marina and a 20-minute drive from the Marseille-provence Airport. Clients will include Chinese and Asian textile importers, manufacturers and agents as well as their european counterparts. While access is currently limited to professionals and traders, it may one day be available to the public. in the meantime, local residents will be pleased with several hundred job openings! 

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Built in the 1970s by celebrated architect André Minangoy, La Vague de Saint-Paul – with its refined style and contemporary décor – invites you into a world of modernity and classic Provence. The hotel’s design elements and artistic architecture make it a unique address. Nestled into the heart of the Vençoises hills just 2km from the medieval village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, La Vague promises moments of pure relaxation and tranquillity within its 50 rooms, gourmet eateries, terraces and spa. Its green spaces, dotted with the quintessential olive trees of the region, will spirit you away to a haven of peace while the outdoor pool and Pétanque and tennis courts provide an outlet for energy. At new restaurant Au Jardin de La Vague, chef Akhara Chay proposes lunch and dinner from a creative Mediterranean menu, both inside and outside on the terrace with a pool view. The young chef, who trained under Ghislaine Arabian, Alain Ducasse and mentor Éric Provost, has previously worked at the esteemed establishments of Mas Candille, Mas des Herbes Blanches and Château Valmer before joining La Vague de Saint Paul.

Celebrate easter at la Vague with

OUR SPECIAL PACKAGE FOR TWO: Welcome gift Dinner for two at the restaurant and following the Easter menu (excluding drinks) One night in a double room Buffet Breakfast in the restaurant Access to the spa ( jacuzzi, sauna, hammam, sensory shower and fitness)

From

€286

a night Offer valid between 31 s t March and 1st April 2018, excluding the city tax Easter menu available on the website

Chemin des Salettes / 06570, Saint Paul de Vence / +33 (0)4 92 11 20 00

reservation@vaguesaintpaul.com / www.vaguesaintpaul.com


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The Circle of Life

© Mairie de Monaco

10 YEARS OF 1 NAISSANCE = 1 ARBRE

The Mairie de Monaco has released its 2017 statistics on the number of births, deaths, marriages and divorces in the principality… And it was an overwhelmingly happy year! The birth rate outweighs that of mortality by almost 2 to 1 and there were more than double the number of marriages than divorces, including four marriages between exclusively Monegasque citizens. Last year, 958 births were registered in Monaco compared to 938 the previous year. 498 of newborns were young boys and 460 were little girls. The parents of 700 babies born during 2017 are non-residents (although almost 500 have parents hailing from the principality’s immediately neighbouring French towns, such as beausoleil, Cap d’Ail

and roquebrune-Cap-Martin). Among the girls born, the most popular baby names given were: Victoria, Alice, Léa, sofia, emma and giulia. For baby boys: Nolan, ethan, Lucas, Hugo, Lorenzo and raphaël. Quite a mix of english and italain! on 25th January, the families of the newborns were invited by the Mairie de Monaco to La route de la Turbie, where saplings were planted in their honour. it marked the 10th year of the 1 Naissance = 1 Arbe initiative, which has seen almost 10,000 trees planted in the region since it began in 2008. separately, a total of 490 deaths were recorded: 242 men and 248 women. While 69 divorces took place within the principality – down from 89 in 2016 – a happy 206 marriages were celebrated! Among these, four marriages involved exclusively Monegasques couples, 38 Monegasque men married wives of a different nationality and 47 Monegasque women wedded foreign husbands. 

Rising costs of travel TOLLS & TRAINS INCREASE THEIR PRICES

march / aPril 2018

since 1st February, motorway operator escota has increased toll prices in the south of France. Not all péage stations have been affected, with Nice-saint-isidore remaining unchanged (as it has since 2010) and the Nice-Les Adrets stretch staying at €4.40. For the Antibes exit, however, the price has raised by 10 cents to €1.60. For the stretch between Nice and Aix-en-provence, drivers should now prepare €17.60 instead of €17.50. The Fréjus exit has also increased by 10 cents to €2.80. prices have been stable on the Ter trains of the French riviera for the last three years, but passengers will now pay an average of 3.5% more. For example, a single ticket between Nice and saint raphaël will now cost €12.80 instead of €12.35. it is estimated that the additional revenue will translate into €2 million – a drop in the ocean given the network’s €300 million annual operating costs!The increases only affect one-off travel tickets, such as a standard ticket bought on the day. Monthly and subsidised passes will remain the same price.



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dossier

2018 real esTaTe

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Contents Living in the south of France

The French market with a focus on the alpes-Maritimes & var

By ELSA CARPENTER

14-15 How to choose your agent

f the French riviera inspired the great artists of the 20th century, it almost certainly had the same influence on the architects commissioned to build the magnificent belle époque villas and palatial estates of the era. Today too, the clean lines and brilliant white façades of ultra-modern homes and high-rise apartments sparkle under the same light of the Mediterranean sun. in the Côte d’Azur, and particularly in the luxury sector, property is a thriving and lucrative business. The market is stable and, despite the approaching brexit, agencies say there has been no dip in investment interest among their Anglophone clients. Life in the south of France remains a popular, collective dream for many. For our 2018 real estate dossier, riviera insider spoke to professionals across the region, asking them to share with us and our readers their extensive knowledge and expertise. From advice for sellers on how to select an agent to the realms of virtual reality and home automation, we bring you the latest news and industry trends. 

I

16-17 real estate in Monaco

18 investing on the Côte

20-21 MiPiM: the world’s leading property event returns to Cannes

22-23 Saving with the help of a courtier

24 virtual reality: transforming the real estate experience

26 villa eilenroc, a history

30-32 iHome & smart living

34 The art of home staging

36-37 The great outdoors: improving the value of your property & your standard of living

38-39 photo A HISTORIC PROPERTY IN CAP D’AIL © Engel & Völkers

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The real esTaTe markeT A focus on the Alpes-Maritimes & Var By ELSA CARPENTER

march / aPril 2018

fter almost a decade of decline following the economic crisis of 2008, the national real estate market has finally returned to 2007 levels. Nearly one million homes were sold in France during 2017 – 16% more than the previous year – and the industry in the south of France has performed particularly well. The three largest départements in provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur were among the most successful regions in France with regards to the total value of sales. Following paris with just over €25 billion and Hauts-de-seine at €13 billion, the Alpes-Maritimes came in at third (€8.48 billion), the bouches-du-rhône was next in fourth (€8.02) and the Var achieved eighth position (€7 billion). in 2017, according to the Fédération Nationale de l'immobilier (FNAiM), 4% of all existing properties in the Alpes-Maritimes were sold (a volume increase of 9% on the year before). in the Var, 3.1% of all properties found

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dropped for the third consecutive year to €2,454 while apartments prices per square metre continued to hover around €2,090, another three-year-long trend. prices (for resold apartments) in the four major cities of the Alpes-Maritimes – Nice, Cannes, Antibes and Menton – rose by 3.7% during 2017. data collected by the FNAiM Côte d’Azur shows that Cannes is the most expensive of the four at €4,971 per square metre while in Nice, the departmental capital, the average price is €4,289. The number of sales also increased for the big Four: 12% in Nice and Antibes, and 9% in Cannes and Menton. The equivalent statistics for houses was unavailable at the time of going to print.

interest rates & investment

“THe CôTe d’AZUr reMAiNs A ‘pLACe To bUY’ AFTer THe MAJor CiTies sUCH As LoNdoN ANd pAris. THere reALLY is A sTroNg deMANd For reAL esTATe Here ANd oWNers CAN be reLATiVeLY CoNFideNT THAT THere WiLL ALWAYs be A MArkeT.”

new owners, equating to over 29,000 sales (up 14.4% on 2016 statistics).

Prices per square metre right across the country, prices per square metre rose by 4.2% to €2,550 (in 2016, the increase had been more subtle at 1.5%). The average price for an apartment now stands at €3,385 per square metre and €2,143 per square metre for a house. in the Var, prices varied greatly between different locations and property types. in the glamourous seaside resort of saint Tropez, over 1,000 houses were sold for an average price per square metre of €4,725 and 104 apartments were sold for €6,598. in Toulon, more than 2,000 houses and nearly 9,000 apartment sales took place (at €3,249 and €2,392 per square metre respectively). in nearby Hyères, the price per square metre for a house stands at €3,638 and €3,030 for apartments. Further inland in draguignan, house prices

interest and lending rates are at a historical low in France. between the end of october in 2016 and the end of october in 2017, €250 billion of real estate loans and mortgages were granted – more than double the amount of the previous 12 months. 29% of the total credit was obtained by first-time buyers. “in 2017, public confidence in France’s economic situation grew significantly,” says the president of the FNAiM Côte d’Azur, Frédéric pelou. “This, along with borrowing and employment rates, will continue to be market indicators in 2018, during which we expect prices to rise by 2%.” A June 2017 study by ifop into public opinion on buying a property with the goal of renting it out revealed that the motivations of 30% of people are linked to immediately increasing income, 20% are for increasing income during retirement; 15% of investors do so to increase the inheritance they will pass on; 13% feel more comfortable investing in property rather than traditional banking products like life insurance and savings bonds; 12% do so for tax reasons; and 5% hope to use money generated through investments to pay for things such as the education of their children. despite this, pelou argues that there is a pervasive notion in France that investment in real estate is ‘economically unproductive’ for the country. “We must fight against this,” he says. “investment is a factor in the creation of wealth.” Marie-Claire sangouard from engel & Völkers, who has extensive experience in luxury real estate in the region, has noticed a positive development in public opinion: “The French are investing more and more in stone, which [they consider to be] the most secure place to invest. owning real estate remains an important goal for many. We have the sea and the mountains, and benefit from a wonderful climate. The region is also well set-up for professional life: after paris, Nice has the biggest international airport in the country. Whether a primary residence or a pied à terre, the diversity of the south of France continues to be attractive to international buyers.” For Angie delattre of Michaël Zingraf real estate Christie’s, “The Côte d’Azur remains a ‘place to buy’ after the major cities such as London and paris. There really is a strong demand for real estate here and owners can be relatively confident that there will always be a market.”  march / aPril 2018


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how To choose your agenT By ELSA CARPENTER

The questions to ask & the skills to look for

MARIE-CLAIRE SANGOUARD eNgeL & VöLkers

what questions should i be asking a potential agent? Firstly, ask for their professional real estate card (carte professionnelle agent immobilier). All engel & Völkers agents hold this card, which is issued under strict conditions, such as experience and qualifications, and must be renewed every three years. An agent must also have a carte blanche or attestation de collaborateur immobilier and undertake regular training. The professional is highly regulated! Confirm their knowledge of the neighbourhood. our agents work in areas called ‘Farming’ and have a perfect awareness of their defined zone: the residents, local businesses and its various communities. You should also enquire about their marketing strategy – the more precise the agent is and the amount level of information they request will give an indicator of how professional they will be. The time they spend exploring the property and you, as the client, can help you gauge their professionalism.

how do i know i can place my confidence in them? engel & Völkers understand that the notion of trust is paramount for the customer. buyers and sellers entrust us with important parts of their lives: memories, dreams and also their savings. This is why we attach so much importance to the clarity and coherence of an agent’s rhetoric. They must be able to answer all questions pertaining to the property.

how can i trust their price valuation? The sale of a property is, above all, a story of common purpose and trust. The valuations must be based on concrete facts: the supply and demand, march / aPril 2018

“bUYers ANd seLLers eNTrUsT Us WiTH iMporTANT pArTs oF THeir LiVes: MeMories, dreAMs ANd ALso THeir sAViNgs.” - MArie-CLAire sANgoUArd, eNgeL & VöLkers

market trends, and sales history going back at least three months on comparable properties. There are many basic criteria to consider too: the location of the property, the profile of the potential buyer, and the strengths or weaknesses of the property. A professional will have no interest in giving away or overvaluing a property. our role is to regulate the market, and to provide the correct advice and information regarding price so that the property is sold under the best circumstances. The evaluation must be given in writing!

is it better to choose a large and reputable agency rather than an independent agent? Applying to an internationally renowned agency brings many guarantees: the expertise of agents and [therefore the] knowledge of market trends, their proximity to the market, the agency’s administrative management, and ability to provide sound legal and financial advice. engel & Völkers, for example, has more than 10,000 employees present in 34 countries and has more than 800 locations around the world. 30% of our clients come to us via our international network. This provides the seller with a bigger potential pool of buyers [than with an independent agent].

how should i approach discussions about commission? since 1987, honoraires or commission have been unregulated, but the average is between 6 and 8%. Commission is calculated in % according to the sale price, meaning that the final amount is often different from that given at the start. it is rare to sell a property for the asking price! 


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in early 2018, if you typed comment devenir into the search bar google.fr, the first suggestion would be riche. The second? Comment devenir agent immobilier. The two are, perhaps, linked. suddenly having plenty of money would certainly be a welcome quick fix for the worries of many and a job that has no cap on the amount of commission you can charge will have its appeal to

what is the best way of getting in touch with an agent? initial contact is usually made via an internet request or recommendation by email, then a telephone conversation, an appointment and then a meeting on site. some clients we meet spontaneously, for example, someone who might be in the region on holiday sees a property in the shop window and comes in to speak with us straight away!

FoUr seAsoNs properTies

be sure that the agent or broker has been approved for real estate sales in France, for example, by owning the professional card! For an initial overview, it is useful to study the websites of various brokers. Are the properties for sale presented in an attractive and appealing way? is the listing available in several languages? does the agency have a multilingual team?

how can i tell if an agent knows what they are talking about? Ask how long they have been working in the field! You can also tell a lot about an agent from their selling style. The agent should highlight the essential features of the property, but also give the client the opportunity to experience the villa themselves. Talking too much is rarely good, something many agents – and sellers – do not seem to know.

should i look for an agency in the neighbourhood or immediate vicinity of the place i am looking for? Yes, although the size of that vicinity can depend on the type of property you are looking for. When buying a second or holiday home, clients are often more open to looking further afield and many do not actually know where they would like to buy. some will be familiar with the area, but not know about the distinctions between different places. in cases such as these, it is good to listen to the agent who, if they are well-trained, will be able to make recommendations according to the ‘wish list’ of a client and help advise on the subtle differences of each property. To achieve this, the agent will have a very good knowledge of the area – no more than 30 to 40 minutes’ drive from the agency.

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some, but should making money be the sole goal of a real estate agent? The answer is – hopefully – ‘no’. so how can you tell if you’re working with someone who has your best interests at heart? The right person who respects you and understands the market? riviera insider speaks to two leading agencies in the Côte d’Azur and Monaco.

BEATRIX EIKEL

what are the first things i should be looking for when choosing an agent or agency?

real esTaTe

“TALkiNg Too MUCH is rAreLY good, soMeTHiNg MANY AgeNTs – ANd seLLers – do NoT seeM To kNoW...” - BEATRIX EIKEL, FOUR SEASONS PROPERTIES

who sets the prices: the seller or the agent? often, the sellers have a price, but still want an assessment by the agent, who should be able to give a fair market valuation and set a realistic price at which the property can be sold in the foreseeable future. This is one of the most important tasks of an agent. if a property is already on the market, the price is fixed. if it was set too high in the past, it can be difficult to encourage the seller to lower the valuation. Convincing the seller that their experience and market knowledge is sound will test the persuasiveness of any agent. A good and experienced agent will not accept every property at any price into their portfolio.

how much negotiation space is there for the buyer? There is a negotiable margin in most cases as the amount cannot simply be quantified; it depends entirely on the property. if the location and quality of the property are good, you have less negotiating space than with a renovation property in a mediocre location. The length of time a property has been on the market and the level of motivation by the seller to sell is also similarly decisive. in the past, many properties were totally overpriced. sellers still dreamed of 2006 and 2007 prices, and there were sometimes 10 to 30% negotiation margins. Today, the market has calmed down. The sellers whose properties have been on the market for some time have cut prices significantly – now is a good time to buy a property on the Côte d'Azur. An experienced agent should hold all the arguments for a sound margin. 

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Buying luxury From Saint Tropez to Monaco The French riviera is home to some of the world’s most expensive – and beautiful – real estate. in Monaco alone, in 2016, the value of transactions totalled a staggering €2.7 billion, and the region’s luxury sector is confident that last year’s final figures will be even better. By ELSA CARPENTER

gents often speak of pre-2008 prices, yet they are hardly comparable with those of 2016. While the number of sales has been relatively stable, particularly in the last four years at an annual average of 500, the value of transactions has soared. in 2007, 420 sales were completed for just over €1.1 billion. A quarter of properties sold in Monaco during 2016 cost more than €5 million, with just under half of these selling for over €10 million. The total value of transactions was a staggering €2.7 billion. A decade ago, just 7% of properties were worth over €5 million. The Monte-Carlo quartier was by far the best performing neighbourhood in 2016, with 150 sales totalling €756 million. La rousse is the northeast of the principality came in second with 141 sales totalling €459 million. The famous rocher, the site of the palais princier, represented just 0.9% of sales: 13 properties with a value of €21 million. “people come to Monaco for security and lifestyle,” says Christophe Aversano of rosengart Luxury real estate

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“eVeN iF THe AVerAge is €40,000, priCes per sQUAre MeTre CAN sUrpAss €100,000 iN MoNACo”

Monaco, “not for calm and tranquillity. Monaco is a hyperactive place and this is reflected in its real estate.” due to the exorbitant prices per square metre (reaching €41,420 in 2016 from €20,066 in 2007), properties in Monaco is, by definition, luxury. “even if the average is €40,000, prices per square metre can surpass €100,000,” continues Aversano. “The number of sales is expected to have decreased slightly in 2017. Two bedroom places were in demand the most, and can perform very well in the rental sector. More and more Monaco residents are looking for somewhere to rent before they buy now.” perhaps Monaco is running out of properties to sell? “There are nine new construction projects expected to be completed in 2018 and 2019,” Aversano adds, “and the Tour odéon has several apartments for sale on different floors.” still, the principality is far from the only place on this stretch of coast that fetches incredible prices. “The second home market in the south of France, particularly in the upper echelons, has been very stable in recent years, and right across the coast,” says Aversano. “The demand is there as well as a willingness to invest.” Angie delattre from Michaël Zingraf real estate Christie’s says that 2017 was the ‘best year on record’ for the international agency’s branches in the south of France: “We had a higher turn-over than the year before with a higher value of transactions.” it’s a similar story for engel & Völkers, which reveals that, during the first few months of 2018, interest has been higher for luxury properties than it was in 2017. “The market has changed from a seller’s market – with high to too high prices – to a buyer’s market,” concludes Aversano. “The stories of prices reduced by up to 30% are fairy tales. real estate today is being sold at more realistic prices – how much room there is for negotiation depends on the property. You just can’t compare a €3 million villa with a €15 million estate!”  2017 statistics for Monaco will be made available by iMsee in spring.


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invesTing on The côTe Privacy, proximity or both?

Work-life balance VALBONNE & SOPHIA ANTIPOLIS estled in the verdure of forests and rolling hills, the sophia Antipolis business park is the heart of advanced technology in the south of France. stretching over 2,400 hectares, it is home to well over 2,000 companies and 36,000 employees – a number that grows by around 800 people a year. since its founding in 1969, it has become a world reference for innovation and international collaboration, but in addition to its economic and technological successes, sophia Antipolis has also had an important effect on its surrounding populations. one town in particular stands out: Valbonne. At the end of 2017, the Fédération Nationale de l’immobilier (FNAiM) for the Côte d’Azur published the results of a self-commissioned study that asked where in the Alpes-Maritimes, from Menton in the east to Mandelieu-La Napoule in the west, is the best place to live. pulling on sources from iNsee and Jestimo, a professional real estate evaluation tool, the bureau imposed 12 criteria on 31 of the largest towns and cities in the region: access to public services and amenities; culture, sport and leisure; education; income; employment and prospects; environment and ecology; the balance between professional and private life; accommodation; property taxation; safety and security; health; and transport. Valbonne, which controls 60% of the sophia Antipolis territory, led the rankings with an overall score of 7.5/10. it achieved a solid 10/10 in five areas: public services, education, income, employment, and property taxation (based on taxe d’habitation and taxe

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IN THE NEXT EDITION… For our May-June edition, riviera insider will be heading to valbonne to explore the history, culture, gourmet scene and much more. as one of the most popular towns on the Côte d’azur among expats, both resident and visiting, we’d like to hear about your favourite places. You can get in touch at rivierainsider@riviera-press.fr! march / aPril 2018

photos MORE THAN ONE IN TEN RESIDENTS OF THE PICTURESQUE TOWN OF VALBONNE IS AN EXPAT © Palomba Robert

fonciere contributions). it also scored highly for sport and culture, public health and the work-life balance of its residents. The population of Valbonne has been steadily growing over the last 20 years, from 10,762 in 1999 to around 13,190 in 2014 (the recent census concluded on 24th February 2018). Almost 20% of the working population holds a managerial or professional post (cadres et professions intellectuelles supérieures) and more than 10% is foreign, primarily Anglophone or Anglosaxon. “Valbonne has clearly been a very successful town for many years,” says the director of the real estate department for the Caisse d’epargne Côte d’Azur, Jean-Marc Casalati. “it has a huge appeal to investors and residents due to its proximity to sophia Antipolis, where numerous foreign and international businesses have found a base. Many people choose to move to Valbonne for its closeness to their workplace and there’s an important population of expats in the area – particularly Anglophones – as well in the ‘golden triangle’ of nearby Le rouret and opio.” The towns of beaulieu-sur-Mer, biot, Mouans-sartoux, Antibes, saint-Laurent-du-Var, Mougins, Cannes, Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cagnes-sur-Mer make up the rest of the FNAiM study’s Top 10. 


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Whether you’re buying a place to live or hoping to make a reliable real estate investment, riviera insider asks the experts: where is best?

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cannes “Unlike the somewhat seasonal places such as saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Cap d’Antibes and saint Tropez, Cannes is busy all year thanks to exciting events and seminars. it also has good proximity to the other major towns and cities on the Côte d’Azur, making it an excellent base,” says Michaël Zingraf real estate Christie’s Angie delattre from the Cannes Croisette agency. Christoph Aversano of rosengart Luxury real estate agrees, “Cannes is without doubt a reliable place in which to invest, with its glamourous reputation, festival and Croisette.”

Aversano says that Villefranche to Cap d’Ail – from the bord de Mer up to the mountains behind – continues to be a safe investment due to the nearness of Monaco. on the other side of the principality: “Locations close to Monaco, such as Cap Ferrat, Cap d'Ail, roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Menton will make stable investments,” says Marie-Claire sangouard of engel & Völkers, “for their tranquillity and proximity to the beaches and points of interest of the French riviera. roquebrune-Cap-Martin is one of the most sought-after locations, with rocky peaks rising up to 500m, peaceful bays, and a Mediterranean climate.”

photo 1 THIS 625M², NINE-BEDROOM PROPERTY IS FOUND IN THE HEART OF A PRIVATE, LANDSCAPED GARDEN MEASURING 4,100SQM IN THE CALIFORNIE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF CANNES. OVERLOOkING THE BAY AND THE ESTéREL MOUNTAIN RANGE, IT OFFERS A SUBLIME BLEND OF CITY LIVING AND RURAL RETREAT. IT IS LISTED BY MICHAëL ZINGRAF AT €13,500,000. © Michaël Zingraf

photo 3 jUST 10 MINUTES FROM MONACO, THIS UNIQUE BELLE éPOQUE PROPERTY IN ROQUEBRUNE CAP MARTIN HAS A MAIN VILLA PLUS TWO SPACIOUS GUEST HOUSES, TWO STAFF APARTMENTS AND TWO SPAS! THE ELEVATED PLOT, WHICH OFFERS ENGAGING VIEWS OF THE PRINCIPALITY, EXTENDS OVER 5,000M². LISTED EXCLUSIVELY BY ENGEL & VöLkERS, THE PRICE IS ON REQUEST. © Engel & Völkers

photo 2 WITH AN INCREDIBLE 2.5 ACRES OF LAND, FOREST AND 6,000 VINES (THAT PRODUCE 10,000 BOTTLES OF WINE A YEAR), THIS MAjESTIC 700M² PROPERTY IN MOUGINS IS A PROVENçAL DREAM. THE GARDENS ARE A WORTHY INVESTMENT IN THEMSELVES; THEY WERE DESIGNED BY THE GREAT jEAN MUS. LISTED MICHAëL ZINGRAF, THE PRICE IS ON REQUEST. © Michaël Zingraf

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mougins, valbonne & antibes “The proximity to the airports and the motorway, the development of the sophia Antipolis area and its new businesses in the industries of tomorrow are really boosting this sector’s real estate market,” explains sangouard. “Mougins is an excellent choice for investment,” says Aversano. “it’s close to Cannes and has a unique art de vivre and ambiance. provence on the Côte d’Azur!”

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miPim 2018 The world’s leading commercial property event returns to the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès in Cannes. almost 25,000 visitors and real estate professionals are expected between 13th and 16th March, including 370 political leaders from around the world at €1,995 a ticket!

© D.R.

Sport in the UK Project: North Star, Swindon snow in swindon? While there was perhaps more than usual last winter, the city will soon (2021) be able to enjoy winter sports all year round thanks to this €307 million project to create a regional leisure centre. Complete with 2,000sqm snow and ski facilities – the largest in the Uk – 130-bed hotel, 14-screen iMAX cinema, bowling alley, trampolining, climbing, restaurants, and retail outlets, it is hoped that North star will have a ‘transformational impact’ on the city. stand: C19.C

Green travel in Canada Project: Solar Uniquartier, Montreal A vast green and transport-orientated development in brossard, solar Uniquartier will focus on a ‘light rail transit system that will enable residents to reach downtown Montreal in 15 minutes’. over €850 million has been invested in the large-scale project, which is made up of three core entities: residential, offices and retail. it will be presented by Fonds immobilier de solidarité FTQ. stand: p-1.k2

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© Leandro Justen/BFA.com

Luxury retail in the US Project: Brookfield Place, New York City everything is bigger in America, even the panes of glass! brookfield property planners will be in Cannes to present the already-opened brookfield place as part of efforts to promote New York’s ‘next great neighbourhood’. At 33,450sqm, this ‘premier downtown destination for fashion, food and the arts’ is located on the Hudson river in Lower Manhattan. As well as shops and art exhibitions, it also houses a Michelin-starred restaurant, Le district. in 2016, it won the Urban Land institute New York Award for excellence in development. stand: Visitors © D.R.


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how does The younger generaTion see Tomorrow’s ciTies? Author of What Adults Can Learn From kids, Adora svitak, a 20-year-old American writer and lecturer, will be hosting one of the most interesting – and insightful – discussions held at MipiM 2018. Challenging property professionals on ‘tomorrow’s cities and urging them to pay attention to the expectations of the younger generation’, the veritable child prodigy, who published her first book at the age of eight, refuses to accept the reputation of her age group as all about ‘me, me, me’. As part of her talk, which will take place during the opening conference on 13th March at 2pm, svitak is expected to present her notion of ‘the strong sense of community among young people who aspire to more humane, sustainable and smarter urban spaces’. “it’s up to you to work more like an organism and less like an organisation,” she argues. “be a living, breathing, changing, responsive place, so that those who join you are not there to work up through a structure, but immediately be part of a living system.”

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© S. D. Halloy

in support of her creed, ronan Vaspart, head of MipiM markets, says, “boldness and imagination are our keywords for MipiM 2018. We want to shake up things by giving the floor this year to a representative of the younger generation who can provoke property professionals and make them think. i hope that this will start a dialogue between the people who build today’s and tomorrow’s cities and those who live in them.” 

© Valentin Desjardins

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The complete package By ELSA CARPENTER

Saving with the help of a courtier

ou’ve agreed a price with the agent and appeased the owner, but now you need to secure financing. Not an easy task living in a foreign country with different ways of doing things. in France, it can mean knocking on the doors of countless banks and partaking in complex negotiations. if it all sounds very complicated and long-winded, that’s because it usually is. A courtier or broker can offer the solution: their expertise and relationships with the country’s banks will help you save time and money. obviously their services don’t come for free – most courtiers will charge around €1,000 or 1% of the amount borrowed – but they can deliver results and rates that an ordinary person simply wouldn’t be able to achieve. According to consumer association 60 Millions de Consommateurs, savings are €12,000 on average. A good broker will offer an all-round package that, following client consultations, will propose a strategy that makes sense both financially and legally. “We act as the client’s solicitor with the bank,” explains Amandine rophé, Managing director of Abba Courtage, an independent loan brokerage office located in Le Cannet, “and guarantee to negotiate more attractive mortgage terms that would have been possible if they’d visited the bank themselves as well as terms that best suit the client’s individual situation.” An ifop study in october 2017 revealed that a third of mortgages in France are now negotiated by courtiers (in 2000, 15% of mortgages

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were negotiated by a broker) while figures published later that year by economic firms iHs global insight and Xerfi suggested that the market share is expected to grow to 50% in the next five years. An interbanque institute study, which interviewed 2,300 borrowers who had used a courtier, released at the same time noted the principal reasons for using a broker: preferential rate, expertise and time savings. 35% of respondents said the nominal rate of the mortgage put forward by their courtier was the decisive factor in using their services. 33% pointed to a broker’s professional expertise as the second main reason, citing the complexities of credit and its procurement if handled by a layperson. in the afore-mentioned ifop study, 88% of respondents said they thought a courtier could save them time and 71% stated that they believed a broker would help them save money. rophé says that her team, which is bilingual (english and French) and specialises in an international clientele, manages and explains every step of the credit process until the loan is signed and secured. part of the job is being up-to-date with relevant tax legislation in France and europe, and a reputable courtier should also have knowledge of state funding opportunities, credit insurance and the various forms of credit available to a diverse market. Their role is unique. “The courtier doesn’t represent the banks,” explains president of ApiC (the Association professionnelle des intermédiaires en Crédits that was set up in 2010 that represents around 60% of all qualified courtiers) philippe Taboret, “the courtier is mandated by the client and works in their interest with a duty to advise.” 

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virTual realiTy A hi-tech transformation of the real estate experience By ELSA CARPENTER at the start of the year, real estate giant Coldwell Banker released the findings of a US poll. 77% of participants stated they would prefer to take a virtual reality tour of a property before viewing it in person. in the luxury sector, where transactions are often done on a global scale, vr is becoming an attractive tool for buyers and agents alike. irtual reality uses a computergenerated scenario to create a life-like experience for the user, who can explore the artificial world the scenario presents and even interact with certain items. For real estate, Vr can build up a realistic picture of the interior and exterior of a property that a potential buyer can move around it and discover for themselves. Advocates say it is almost as convincing as the real thing.

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As the Coldwell banker study interviewed American nationals rather than French or european, it would be easy to argue that the results would be different in France or even Monaco – countries that are only now embracing geoanalysis tools like Cityscan for an improved real estate experience. However, the overwhelming support for Vr revealed in the 2018 survey conducted by Harris poll in the Us is impressive. Nearly four out of five respondents said they would appreciate being able to take a Vr tour of a property before a physical visit; 68% would like to use the technology to see what their furniture would look like in a prospective home; and 62% said they would be more likely to choose an agent who offered Vr tours as a service for potential buyers than one who did not. Within the luxury real estate industry, sotheby’s has led the way in moving towards Vr technology. The international agency incidentally also commissioned 360° and 3d experiences of four of the greatest surrealist paintings in 2017, allowing gallery visitors to explore works such as salvador dalí’s Moment de Transition as if they were real and even look ‘beyond’ the paint to discover imagined elements. it began experimenting with Vr technology in real estate three years ago in the Us, but is yet to roll out the service across its portfolio. even for the most luxurious – and expensive – properties in the south of France, it is difficult to find an agency that has embraced Vr. in Cagnes-sur-Mer’s polygone riviera shopping centre, however, the recently launched Maison k has begun integrating Vr into its exclusive mandate packages. “We’ve been using Vr since we opened six months ago,” says kristina krupska, the owner of Maison k, which also includes professional photography, homestaging and full marketing support if the agency is given exclusivity. More and more of her high-end clients are foreign or based outside of the region: ‘long-distance clients’. she uses modern visual tools such as Vr to put together a very precise and relevant selection of properties according to their needs so that when they arrive at her agency, no time is wasted with more travelling. “Virtual tours and visits save time for both the client and the agent… it allows us to capture every corner of the property and view it from the agency or even the client’s home. We’re able to take a property to the client – rather than vice versa,” she explains. “it changes the real estate experience because clients are able to project themselves onto a potential buy, which speeds up the decision-making process. The strength of Vr is that it often increases a client’s passion for a property. Compared to standard photographs and videos, with Vr, you experience a property as if you were really there!” 


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Planning a luxury ProPerTy ProjecT? Let the Caisse d’Epargne Côte d’Azur assist s part of France’s second largest banking group, the bpCe group, Caisse d’epargne Côte d’Azur (CeCAZ) works with a range of clients – individuals, property developers, building contractors, planners, investors, real estate’s agents and decision makers in the regional economy – through its Luxury properties branch, accompanying them in the financing of high-end properties. The expertise of the CeCAZ, thanks to its heritage as part of a large international group, allows it to offer a unique and highly effective scope of services, financial solutions and guidance as well as actively supporting the economy of the region.

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For future property owners, the CECAZ can assist in the development of a ‘project that matches your vision’. “our international experts speak many languages and, with extensive multicultural experience, can meet the expectations and requirements of clients from the world over,” says Hélène da Costa, director of the Luxury properties business Centre. “The Luxury properties branch provides all the expertise you need to successfully carry out your project: bespoke financing packages; personalised mortgages (1) adapted to your situation and your objectives; and tailor-made investments in partnership with the group’s subsidiary Natixis bank in Luxembourg. our support is round-the-clock, with progressive online banking services that allow you to monitor and manage your accounts at all hours of the day.” With the Visa infinite card provided, clients also have access to a 24/7 personal concierge (2) service. other highlevel banking services include: high withdrawal and payment limits; insurance (3) guarantees and optimal assistance (4); and access to Vip invitations and exclusive events. With regards to non-banking services, Luxury properties can provide you with a range of partners, such as lawyers, tax experts, notaries/solicitors, urban planning advisors, and interior designers etc., to advise you on those specific needs related to a luxury property. For property professionals, the CECAZ’s service is equally bespoke. “our financing options are adapted to activities in property building and renovation, and to professional investors and property companies,” says Hélène da Costa. “our guarantees can help secure your operations and limit or delay disbursement of funds.” day-to-day services include an online banking service to secure the management of cash flow. “Luxury properties provides solutions for all property professionals specialising in luxury properties,” continues Hélène da Costa. “With the bpCe group’s support, we can be involved not only at a local level, but also across our national branches. regarding equity (5), CeCAZ, through its dedicated branch, can take an active role in the progress of your projects by having an equity stake in the legal structure of your property programme.” www.luxuryproperties-caisse-epargne.com (1) regarding the mortgage, the borrower is entitled to a 10 day reflection period. The sale is subject to the buyer obtaining the mortgage, if this is not obtained, the vendor shall reimburse the sum already paid. (2) Concierge service, 116 bis, avenue des Champs elysées, 75008 paris, sAs au capital de 137 456,70 €, rCs de paris 485281232. (3) The insurance guarantees of the Visa infinite card is an AXA France iArd and AXA France Vie contract, a company governed by the French insurance Code, underwritten by Visa europe France, distributed by the Caisse d’epargne insurance intermediary. (4) The assistance guarantees of the Visa infinite card is a europ Assistance contract, underwritten by Visa europe France, distributed by your Caisse d’epargne assistance intermediary. (5) After assessment of your project and subject to your application being accepted by the Caisse d’epargne Côte d’Azur. Ask your Caisse d’epargne Côte d’Azur advisor for terms and conditions. Caisse d’epargne et de prévoyance Côte d’Azur is a French société anonyme coopérative with a board of directors and a supervisory board, governed by articles L.512-85 et seq. of the French Monetary and Financial Code – social capital 395.033.520 euros – 455, promenade des Anglais, 06200 Nice – 384 402 871 rCs NiCe – insurance intermediary, registered with the oriAs under the n° 07 002 199. Holder of the professional Licence for Transactions on property and business premises, without effects or objects of value, n° Cpi 0605 2017 000 019 152 delivered by the CCi Nice-Côte d’Azur, guaranteed by the Compagnie européenne de garanties et Cautions, 16 rue Hoche, Tour kUpkA b, TsA 39999, 92919 LA deFeNse Cedex.

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Tax & finance

Getting to know your neighbourhood

photo JEAN-PHILIPPE GIOANNI, CANNES © D.R.

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n the Uk, dedicated property portals such as Zoopla, rightMove and onTheMarket have been helping clients find new homes to buy or rent for more than a decade. Users can look at market trends, discover houses prices according to postcode, search for commercial or overseas properties, and compare potential addresses according to their strengths and weaknesses. it was not until last year that France welcomed the first similar service. Cityscan says it can evaluate any given property in the country on the bias of some 70 criteria. A snapshot of the indicators: Transport: What is the access to public transport like? Digital: What are internet and phone signals like in the area? Noise: Is there traffic in the area? Education: Can your children get to school on

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income deducTions aT source france to delay withholding tax system

ntended to modernise the collection of the income tax without changing the rules of calculation, the planned withholding tax system in France (prélèvement à la source de

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foot or by bike? Does the local school suit their needs? Amenities: Where is the closest boulangerie? How far is it to the hospital or police station? A property is ranked out of 100 for each criteria and given an overall score. Using the App (available for Android and Apple) or the website, users can obtain a basic evaluation of a property for free or opt for Cityscan premium and pay €15 per address (reduced prices available in package form) for a complete and complex review. A quick – and free – search of a street in old Antibes address throws up a score of 68/100 (a b). strengths include facilities and services, public transport links, good employment in the area. Weaknesses are noise, a likelihood of traffic and a lack of parking. Agreed! The technology is only useful for individuals and families looking for a new home, but also for real estate agents and investors, who want to better understanding the neighbourhood. EC

l'impôt sur le revenue) will be effective on 1st January 2019 instead of 1st January 2018 as initially expected. These additional 12 months will allow the government to finalise the new tax system and help the taxpayers and companies to get a better understanding of what they should expect next year as well as begin adapting to this change. Taxpayers will be informed for the first time about their future tax rate when they submit their next income tax declaration on line, which means in spring 2018. Those still using the paper format of the declaration will only be informed when they receive their tax returns during summer 2018. Taxpayers will then be able to get more familiar with this new system thanks to simulations that can be done on their pay rolls at the end of the year 2018 using the real tax rates. by this way, they will know in advance the amount that will be deducted from their salary in January 2019. There should also be some arrangements for companies to

reduce their workloads and they should be in line to recover the tax rates of their employees earlier. This will help avoid using the neutral tax rate for everybody. This neutral rate can be used for people who do not want to communicate their real tax rate to their employer. Also, the penalties in case of a problem to issue the declaration should be reduced. during 2018, all companies should receive an explanation guide to the different steps in this new process.

jean-Philippe gioanni Chartered Accountant - Legal Auditor 1 rue Montaigne, Cannes +33 (0)4 93 06 63 06 www.concertae.com


BENJAMIN A. KERGUENO AVOCAT LL.M The new French wealth tax Understanding the perimeters of the Impôt sur la Fortune Immobilière

CONNECTING LEGAL CULTURES

attorney-counsel.com Riviera Office 28 rue Gioffredo 06000 Nice T : +33 (0)4 93 13 33 66

London Office 88 Kingsway WC2B 6AA London T: +44 0203 755 5316 benjamin.kergueno@attorney-counsel.com

Since 1st January 2018, the ISF (Impôt de Solidarité sur la Fortune) has been replaced by the new annual real estate wealth tax, known as IFI (Impôt sur la Fortune Immobilière), which is a tax on immovable property whose taxable base is limited to non-business related real estate assets. Therefore, securities, banking and financial investments, cash, jewels, furniture, shares, fine wines and other valuables are excluded. The premises used for the taxpayer’s main professional activity and property used for furnished rental activity (provided the landlord is a registered professional landlord) are also exempt from the new wealth tax. IFI is based on the wealth of the household, including spouse and children. Unmarried couples living together are treated as one household for wealth tax purposes. If you are French resident, there is also a 30% allowance against the value of your principal home.This does not apply to second homes and/or in relation to a property held through a Société Civile Immobilière (SCI). Non-residents will only be liable for this tax based on real estate located in France. The tax threshold remains the same in 2018: €1.3 million (net asset value). We would like to draw your attention to the following deductible liabilities: Credit in Fine (repayable in one single payment at the end of the contract, allowing the deductibility of fixed-rate debt for the duration of the loan): an amortisation element will be introduced and the deductible amount will reduce annually taking into account the years passed since the subscription of the loan to the entire loan period. For example: this year, you take a loan in fine of €3 million for five years. Every year, the percentage of deductibility of the loan will decrease by 100/5 = 20% of the initial amount lent, which is €600,000 less annually. Thus: 2019 = € 2.4 million only (80% of the amount lent), 2020 = €1.8 million, 2021= € 1.2 million, 2020 = €600,000 and, starting from 2023, no further deduction will be allowed. High value assets (>€5 million): the amount of debts admitted as deductible exceeds 60% of this value, the debt’s excess will be deductible for 50%. For example: this year, you purchase a property for €5 million, fully financed by a loan, therefore the loan’s capital deductibility will be €4 million. Thus the amount of €3 million (the debt not exceeding 60%) is completely deductible. The remaining amount of €2 million (debt’s excess of 60%) remain deductible for €1 million (50%). Our law firm is here to assist you in choosing the best strategy for fiscal follow-up of your French assets as well for any real estate project in France.


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villa eilenroc appears like an apparition straight from a F. Scott Fitzgerald novel as you take the Sentier Littoral from Plage de la Garoupe to the Baie des Milliardaires. Built over 150 years ago as a luxurious winter retreat, the property is now owned and protected by the ville d’antibes.

villa eilenroc Eternal elegance on the Cap d’Antibes By SARAH HYDE

ccupying perhaps the most privileged site on the Cap d’Antibes, the columned portico and gardens of Villa eilenroc face a near flawless view of the azure Mediterranean sea and Lérins islands. it has been largely uninhabited since the end of WWii, but its presence is so strong that you can almost hear the sounds of jazz records, the tinkle of chandeliers in the breeze, the clinking of champagne flutes on the terrace, and the shrieks of laughter of bobbed and beautiful women. before the eruption of the war in 1939, Villa eilenroc was one of the grandest homes in the French riviera. guests included the Valentinos, greta garbo, european royalty and kings of industry. should you receive an invitation to a dinner party, you might have found yourself taking

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photo THE VILLA EILENROC AS SEEN FROM THE SENTIER LITTORAL © Direction de la Communication / Ville d’Antibes Juan-les-Pins

a seat between begum Aga khan and Florence gould, and facing the Fitzgeralds and duke and duchess of Windsor, who often stayed in the neighbouring property that now belongs to roman Abramovich. if the jewellery collection of pre-WWii era owner Helene beaumont (which was sold as a single owner collection in geneva in 1994) is anything to go buy, the parties held here must have glittered in glamour. The property began its days in the 1860s when the land was purchased by Hugh-Hope Loudon. At the time, the Cap d’Antibes was little more than a rocky outcrop dotted with small farms and stone houses. Considerable work and the transportation of massive amounts of soil would have been needed to develop the gardens in line with his vision. it is interesting to speculate whether Loudon had a sense that there was something very special about this headland. Was it ‘what dreams are made of’ for the rich dutchman as it is today for many? The house was completed in 1867. Whether it was designed by the famous architect behind the opera houses of paris and Monte-Carlo, Charles garnier, is an urban myth. despite it being touted as a fact, the local archivist for the Ville d’Antibes’ archives admits that there are no physical documents to support this generally believed attribution. At the time, the Cap d’Antibes was beginning to establish itself as a winter destination for europe’s aristocrats and perhaps Loudon wanted to create a place for a happy retirement at the end of a highly lucrative career. The long and gentle gradual incline of the driveway was built for horse-drawn transport rather than cars. Lit up at night by gas lamps, the house would have looked spectacular in their warm, illuminated glow as the carriages arrived on the final sweep. When the property march / aPril 2018


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was built, the Cap would have been much more remote than today, only adding to the romance of the experience. it surely was a peaceful place. given the splendour and comfort, it is hard to imagine what went wrong for Loudon and his wife, Cornélie, for whom the house is named in anagram form. despite the sumptuous of their long-lasting surroundings, their marriage did not survive and the couple quickly divorced after it was completed. eilenroc was sold at a fraction of the cost. subsequent owners included scotsman James Wyllie and Coleridge kennard. The villa eventually came into the hands of Louis dudley beaumont in 1927. An American of considerable fortune, who was a major shareholder in the May department stores Company, he moved into the house with his stunning second wife, Helene, an opera singer from London. Fortunately, the beaumont wealth was substantial enough to last the Wall street Crash of 1929 and, around this time, Villa eilenroc entered its heyday. The couple employed the very finest American interior designers, such as Welles bosworth, who was involved in the restoration of the palace of Versailles. He integrated many elements of the famous estate into the new design of eilenroc, particularly in its entrance hall. Willy baumgarten, a wizard of pastel-coloured Aubusson carpets who had previously decorated rooms at the plaza Hotel in New York as well as the Vanderbilt home, was also called in. The furniture was mostly French and 18th century. The contents of the house were so numerous that their highly-anticipated sale in Monaco in december 1992 march / aPril 2018

photo WHAT WOULD THIS SLICE OF PARADISE AND PRIME REAL ESTATE LOOk LIkE IF IT HAD BEEN SOLD AFTER THE DEATH OF MADAME BEAUMONT? © DR

PUBLIC VISITS every Wednesday from 2pm to 5pm First and third Saturday of the month from 2pm to 5pm entrance is €2 (free between 1st October and 31st March) antibesjuanlespins.com

lasted three days. The remaining fixed pieces, like the magnificent marble staircase, elegant bathrooms and – a true prize to see if you are lucky enough – Madame beaumont’s incredible marble bathtub, make it clear that no expense was spared on the part of the designers and owners. The conservatory is conspicuously different from the historic style of the rest of the house; modern by comparison. its fragile, silvered walls were created to reflect the winter sunshine and the wonderful portico visible from the coastal footpath shades a terrace were visitors can now sit and take in the incredible view. Louis died in America in 1942. Helene, who was considerably younger, chose to forgo eilenroc and instead resided in Monte-Carlo until her death in 1988. This tangible sense of abandonment enhances the property’s mystique and poignancy. she rarely visited after WWii, which begs the question: Why? still, she made a considerable philanthropic contribution to the area and left Villa eilenroc to the municipality of Antibes. The estate has been preserved in its state by the Ville, which is no doubt aware of its immense value if it were ever to have been sold. What would this slice of paradise and prime real estate look like if that would have happened? Today it has been opened to the public and what makes a visit to eilenroc so remarkable is how low-key it is, despite the obvious elegance of the place. For an idea of how the house and grounds would have looked – or could – in private hands, a trip to the nearby Hôtel du Cap-eden-roc gives a fair estimation of how luxurious and sophisticated they might have been. 


Romuald Founder of Maison K

Kristina Founder of Maison K

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Welcome to our new, modern and prestigious agency at Polygone Riviera, with its multilingual team and extensive experience and expertise in the luxury sector. As we understand that each project is unique and deserves the best attention, Maison K offers a bespoke and highly personalised service on a human scale and with goals of commitment and success. WHAT OUR CLIENTS SAY: Why did you choose to sell your property with Maison K? “The agency is completely different from the others: very modern and with a friendly atmosphere and excellent hospitality.” Why is Maison K different? “It's a young company, with a very motivated, dynamic and experienced team. They really know how to add value to our property with modern means: virtual tour, HDR photos... Also, Kristina is trilingual (French, English and Russian)!”

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Mobile phones are no longer just for making calls. Now we can use our smart phones, tablets or personal computers as a remote control for many aspects of home life.

ihome The house that thinks in sync

By AILA STöCkMANN

ith a few simple clicks, the user can unlock the door, open the garage, turn on the lights, regulate heaters or control of the volume – and genre – of music in one room to the next. electrical and water consumption can be monitored as can any suspicious movements in or around the property. if it all sounds too complicated, you can programme the network system to recognise your voice commands or even a snap of the fingers. The house will automatically know how to react. For all this – and much more – to work, your abode must be set-up. once done, the smart Home (domotique in French) can help lower expenditure, ensure the safety of your family, and save time and energy. “First and foremost, it’s about making everyday life more comfortable,” sums up Marc Marin, the co-founder of Your smart Home design on the Côte d’Azur and a specialist in transforming ordinary properties into smart living spaces. A few simple examples: you can enter a room and the lights automatically come on or, with one gesture, the house gets up with you in the morning (lighting, heating in the bathroom, coffee machine). The lamps or TV will turn off if you are out of the room for an extended period. Your exterior gate can also be primed: if your car is equipped with a geo-tracker, the gate will open automatically as you near the entrance. The second argument in favour of adapting your home with smart technology is,

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WITH A TAP ON A SCREEN OR A CLICk OF THE FINGER, THE SMART HOME WILL AUTOMATICALLY kNOW HOW TO REACT

according to Marin, the energy saving factor. electricity, gas and water use can all be recorded automatically and the live data retrieved whenever required. even if you’re away from your property, issues such as a water pipe leak can be signalled immediately via your phone and, should the rains come, you can stop your garden irrigation system at one click. benefit number three is safety. There are innumerous applications for monitoring your property from a distance and thus, also a range of smart security solutions: motion detectors, surveillance cameras, fire detectors, humidity and water sensors… intelligent cameras, explains Marin, can notify the homeowner in an instant of any abnormal activity. “it’s especially useful for people who travel a lot,” Marin emphasises. “They can not only see what is going on in their absence, but also control all manner of functions, for example, switching on the heating so that the house is warm and welcoming on their return.” on one hand, smart home technology automates everyday tasks while on the

other, device settings – heating, lights and loudspeakers, for example – can be easily adapted to the personal needs of the user via their smartphone or computer. prices for a basic network system start at a few thousand euros: “depending on the number of rooms,” explains Marin. The costs are set according to the brand and requirements of the system. even though many new buildings and developments are integrating more and more of this technology into their plans, the smart Home is still a long way from being considered a living standard. “The mass market is still growing,” notes Marin. The reasons, perhaps: price, fear of technical complexity, and last but not least, the concern about data security. For Marin, however, the advantages clearly outweigh the negatives. As far as data security is concerned, he works with exclusively high-quality brands. “good systems are safe,” he says, “but you don’t have to automate everything – just as much as you are comfortable with! The overall goal is that it’s easy and intuitive – otherwise what’s the point!” 


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The art of home staging The interior designer presents her favourite, current pieces that will add a chic and tasteful element to the design and décor of your home.

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1 / Mirror by reflection Copenhagen dimensions : 132cm x 80cm. €1,015. 4

2 / eucalyptus light by porta romana dimensions: 52.5cm x 40.6cm. €1,218. 3 / Chair by bilou bilou design: romeo sozzi. dimensions: 45cm x 54.5cm x 93.5cm. Completely covered in red velvet.

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4 / dining table by bassano design: romeo sozzi. dimensions: 180cm x 74cm. bronze base with silver-brushed ancient oak. 5 / Lamp by baobab Chalk from porta romana dimensions: 67.8cm x 40.6cm. €1,238.40. 6 / Cabinet by berhardt dimensions: 183cm x 48cm x 86cm. Composed of nickel, copper and zinc. €10,450.


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curTains uP Nathalie Ludwig Exclusive Interiors launches showroom in Mougins odern yet timeless – “With a touch of Art deco… ” – is how trilingual interior designer Nathalie Ludwig describes her style. For the last five years, she has been realising dream homes for her clients on the Côte d'Azur and internationally, working to renovate existing properties or collaborating with developers and owners to create an entirely new space. As part of her unique proposition, Nathalie will project management the whole process: an invaluable service for her many clients who live overseas. At the beginning of 2018,  photo NATHALIE LUDWIG Nathalie expanded into Mougins with a showroom in which her team can better welcome clients and display a wider range of décor and home accessories. “in addition to my fivemember team of architects and decorators, i now have a structural engineer right here in my office,” adds the interior designer, who lives in grasse. in addition to a meeting room, the showroom includes two material zones: one of luxurious fabric samples and the other for tiles, window and door frames, fittings and light switches (as well as many more fixed pieces). “in both areas, we can showcase new trends and materials,” she explains. “Through visiting events such as the Maison & objet in paris recently, i discover exciting ideas and pieces. in this case, mirrors, antiques and one-off furniture productions!” 

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799 Avenue de Tournamy, 06250 Mougins +33 (0)4 92 98 13 20 info@nathalieludwig.com www.nathalieludwig.com

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The greaT ouTdoors Improving the value of your property & your standard of living

With 300 days of sunshine a year, the French riviera lifestyle is all about outdoor living. Whether you have hectares of space or a small, urban terrace, even a few simple touches can drastically improve the quality of a garden – and the value of your home. By ELSA CARPENTER

march / aPril 2018

t the end of the property tour, as the owner opened the French doors, the deal is decided. beyond a terracottatiled patio framed by oleander, a grassy slope studded with olive trees and young, silvery pines extended down to a little brook. The lawn was in a poor state and a pomegranate tree in the far corner was bare of fruit or leaves, but the desire to rush out into the garden was immediate and overwhelming. in the words of renowned French garden designer and architect, Jean Mus, the perfect garden should ‘excite emotion and arouse all five senses’. it should bring pleasure – the tangible and intangible – and inspire. James Hartley of the english garden, which he founded two decades ago with his brother William while they were in their early 20s, believes that the outside spaces of a property are just as important as those inside – if not more – and should be treated with equal attention if they are to achieve their potential. “Thanks to the climate of where we live, we spend much of our time outdoors,” says the 42-year-old, who studied horticulture at imperial College London prior to starting his now well-respected business. “our company philosophy is not to sell plants or even gardens, but to sell the concept of outdoor living. A well-designed garden can dramatically change the ambiance of a property and the experiences you have. if you feel nice in a place then you’re going to enjoy living there.” depending on the agent or agency you ask, estimations of how much value a tastefully landscaped can add to a property range from 5 to 40%. it is a similar prognosis

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for how much you should budget for a garden project. “Typically, people should be looking to invest 5 to 10% of the overall property value in the garden,” says Hartley, “but the cost should really be about balance and finding a comfortable figure for the client. on average, spend is between €100 and €200 per square metre, but this can go either way. We worked with one client who spent €250,000 on a 125sqm balcony in Cannes!” it is relatively straight forward to quote the cost of a lawn space or the individual price of plants, for example, but the final total is harder to quantify in the early stages. does the land need landscaping or soil? Are there hidden obstacles that could slow down the works? As with every construction or development, there may be unforeseen issues and challenges that will need to be overcome. Creating the perfect garden is a labour of love. “even at the end of a project, defining the value is almost impossible,” Hartley continues. “some gardens will continue improving over the years, while others decline. it’s very important to have a good and reliable gardener who understands the space and its needs. That said, it can be very difficult to find the right person in the south of France!” Mus – with humour – concurs, “20% are good gardeners and 80% are amateurs who deliver banal results – just like kitchen planners! despite this, you can always improve your garden. it depends on the budget you are willing to invest, but sensitivity in design is essential above all else. As with the preparation of a gourmet meal, it is less a matter of money and more of composition. even


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with humble ingredients, delicious dishes can be created.” still, both men recommend consulting a professional gardener or landscape architect before embarking on a project. “The mistake many people make is focusing too much on the small details,” says Hartley. “You have to consider the garden in the same way as a living space. Think of it as a scene and look for the lines of sight. You wouldn’t paint all four walls of a room a different colour so why would you do the same in the garden? keep it simple and be rigorous with the colour palette.” The english garden recently completed a project in the region that was designed to echo the natural landscape of the hinterland of Nice by using plants such as santolina, polygonum, thym and wild daisies tinged with pink along with traditional olive trees. Hartley’s advice: if you’re planning to manage the project and maintenance yourself, you should do your research ahead of any planting to ensure you have the right selection of plants for your soil and the climate. “There’s an imaginary line that splits the region,” he explains from the english garden offices and nursery between Valbonne and roquefort-les-pins. “The coast back to Mougins is relatively fuss-free and you can grow the quintessential plants of the Mediterranean quite happily. As you get closer to the mountains, night-time temperatures drop so hardier plants are needed.” The soils in the south of France are calcium-rich with an average of pH 7.4, he explains, meaning that acid-lo-

Far left photo “THINk OF IT AS A SCENE... kEEPT IT SIMPLE & BE RIGOROUS WITH THE COLOUR PALETTE” © English Garden Centre photos A RECENT PROjECT BY ENGLISH GARDEN DESIGNED TO REPLICATE THE HINTERLAND OF NICE © English Garden right photo WILLIAM & jAMES HARTLEY, FOUNDERS & OWNERS OF ENGLISH GARDEN © English Garden

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ving plants that you would recognise from typical english gardens in dorset or other parts southern england – like rhododendron or camellia – will struggle to grow here. palm trees might be the signature plant of French riviera (just think of the iconic palme d’or of the Cannes Film Festival or the tree-lined promenade des Anglais in Nice), but they may one day be gone from the region completely due to the threat posed by the red palm weevil. Larvae of the invasive species, which originates from southeast Asia, feed on the soft fibres of the trunk before moving towards the interior of the palm making tunnels and large cavities. by the time the damage is visible, the attack has normally been so serious that the tree will ultimately die. Cases number in their thousands across the south of France. “The nursery used to be a lot more exotic, but in recent years, we’ve moved towards more naturalised plants that are simpler and easier to grow, but can also provide some interesting shapes,” Hartley continues. “There are basically no palms left in our nursery and we wouldn’t encourage anyone to buy them now.” You can add value to the garden by making strategic and lasting changes – subtly and creatively shielding a space from overlooking neighbours or enhancing the beauty of a view by framing it with beautiful foliage. Lighting is important too if you want your garden to flourish by night as it does by day. “The sun and moon should be the main sources of light,” says Mus. “The moon can act like a candle and create a very special atmosphere, but if that is not enough, you should set your lighting to enhance the natural elements.” Numerous yet inconspicuous lights will help create a more sophisticated setting and elevate your garden to a desirable alternative to your indoor dining room or lounge. “The amount of the budget that we allocate for lighting is often something that surprises clients,” says Hartley. “it is probably the item in the garden that has the biggest price range – from €20 to €200 for a quality product.” All that remains is patience. No matter what the budget or space, a garden will take time to settle in and reveal its true character. A garden will maybe never be perfect – as is the nature of all living, breathing things – but we will start the journey by reseeding the lawn!  march / aPril 2018


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UNKNOWN MONACO

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3d PrinTed reefs Monaco reforms its underwater landscape By ELSA CARPENTER


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rich in life, but delicate in balance: coral reefs cover just 0.2% of our oceans yet support 30% of all marine species known to date. They are also increasingly under threat. if the natural can’t survive, could science and technology provide a solution?

t the UN ocean Conference in June 2017, Monaco’s prince Albert ii called on those present to sign the Coral reef Life declaration, saying, “Life above water depends upon the health of life below water.” some months later at the our ocean conference held in Malta, the principality was joined as a signatory by the nations of Australia, Cook islands, Fiji, France, French polynesia, grenada, indonesia, Mexico, Niue, palau, and the seychelles. but coral reefs are not exclusive to the world’s tropical seas as it would seem by the names of countries supportive of prince Albert ii’s declaration. They can be found all over the world, including in the temperate Mediterranean and, locally, off the coast of Monaco. A quarter of coral reefs worldwide are already considered ‘damaged beyond repair’ and another two thirds under serious threat, according to the World Wildlife Fund. As with countless sites around the world, Monaco’s own reefs are also sensitive to climatic change, pollution and destructive fishing (among other threats). if prince Albert is a well-known international activist, the health of coral is as much a domestic concern as it is global.

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early experiments in the mid to late 1970s, Monaco became one of the first coastal sites in europe to experiment with artificial reefs. From concrete blocks, caves and stacked pyramids to an intentionally sunken wooden boat, the prin-

Main photo ONE OF THE SIX SUBMERGED REEFS © J. M. Mille / AMPN Above photo NUMEROUS TEAMS & ORGANISATIONS TOOk PART IN THE PROjECT, INCLUDING AMPN, WHO PROVIDED THE LOGISTICS © J. M. Mille / AMPN

“LiFe AboVe WATer depeNds UpoN THe HeALTH oF LiFe beLoW WATer.” - priNCe ALberT ii oF MoNACo

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cipality’s early efforts were varied – each a precursor to the latest underwater innovation – and carried a special goal. “Artificial reefs have several functions,” explains Jacqueline gautier-debernardi, the director of the Association Monégasque pour la protection de la Nature (AMpN). “some are immersed to prevent trawling, others create more attractive diving sites, and some help increase fish stocks.” in Monaco, however, the artificial reefs were specifically designed to restore habitats damaged by human activity. Around the same time as these installations, prince rainier iii created the first of two marine reserves along Monaco’s 3.8km of coast. La réserve du Larvotto, in the east of the principality, measures 33.6 hectares and was established in 1975. it shelters some 140,000 square metres of posidonia oceanica, a Mediterranean seagrass that forms meadows below the Monegasque waves at a depth of eight to 25 metres. it also recently became home to a 30-strong community of pinna nobilis – the noble pen shell or giant fan mussel – that was replanted in the protected zone ahead of dredging for the new land extension. on the western side of the development lies the Tombant des spélugues, a smaller reserve of 1.9 hectares that was founded in 1986. despite its close proximity to port Hercule, the aire marine is populated by numerous types of coral, such as corallium rubrum (also known as precious coral for its uses in jewellery making since Antiquity) and sponges as well as large rockfish. “Artificial reefs were laid in Larvotto between 1977 and 1992,” explains philippe Mondielli, the scientific director of the Fondation prince Albert ii (FpA2). “The most successful for fauna were giant slabs of concrete weighing up to 12 tonnes. There are as many as 600 and were organised into various forms: towers with a central ‘well’ or random piles and labyrinth-type shapes. They were relatively cheap to produce and popular with benthic organisms [starfish, oysters, clams and sea anemones].” other experiments, such as the Thalamé reefs of 1990, shaped like a turtle’s shell, were better suited to small coastal fish looking for somewhere to escape from conger and moray eels. rocky blocks deposited at a depth of 30 metres provided reliable – and more natural – surfaces for a whole community of creatures, including algae and shellfish. “The Larvotto reserve has ten times the number of animals as the area surrounding it, with a biomass 100 times as big,” says Mondielli. “The protection of the zone, the seagrass and the implantation of artificial reefs have, over the last few decades, brought back a number of emblematic species to our coastline: the brown meagre or corb, the red scorpionfish, gilt-headed bream or dorade royale, and the Mediterranean lobster.” despite their notable successes, the early attempts in Monaco – and around the world – were built out of concrete and experts now say they were just ‘too simple’ in their design. “They have been unable to imitate the intricacies of the natural world or adapt to different sites,” says Mondielli. march / aPril 2018


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an idea emerges during an official visit to the Netherlands in 2014, prince Albert and the vice-president of his foundation, bernard Fautrier, attended an event during which boskalis (a company that manages construction projects and the maintenance of maritime infrastructure around the world) presented a unique concept: 3d printed reefs. “on one hand, boskalis was looking for a good, 3d printed reef pilot project to increase its knowledge about and experience with the designing, production, placement monitoring, and performance of 3d printed reefs,” says boskalis engineer Jamie Lescinski, who would later lead the project in Monaco. “on the other, the FpA2 had been looking to create more artificial reefs within Monaco’s waters to continue to improve the ecological health of the Monegasque marine system. Together with the AMpN, the foundation also [saw] this as a unique opportunity to be at the forefront of artificial reef technology and design.” several years earlier, italian civil engineer enrico dini – a pioneer of 3d printing – had met sydney architect James gardiner at a conference in Chicago. After introducing gardiner to his work and experiments with 3d printing, which included designs for aquarium installation, the pair decided to make something for the sea. “James came to stay with me at my facilities in buti, pisa, for four months,” says dini. “He designed the first printed piece i put into the water near porto santo stefano, which was incidentally found and stolen by divers. The next experiment was a 3d printed ring that i observed over several months to monitor the dissolution of the material and the growth of organic matter.” in 2012, the duo joined forces with david Lennon of the reef design Lab, a leader in advanced and sustainable march / aPril 2018

Left photo ENRICO DINI, PICTURED WITH SOME OF HIS CREATIONS, IS A PIONEER IN THE FIELD OF 3D PRINTING © DR right photo HIS D-SHAPE PRINTER WAS USED TO CREATE THE ARTIFICIAL REEFS © DR

artificial reef and aquatic habitat design, to create the world’s first 3d printed reef for reef Arabia in bahraini waters. shortly after, dini was contacted by boskalis. He would provide the equipment (he gave the international company a printer that had previously been used by the italian military to build shelters for soldiers) and expertise; boskalis would provide the commercial power and clout; the AMpN would provide logistical support; and the FpA2 would provide the access.

3d printing developed in the 1980s at the Massachusetts institute of Technology, the technology of 3d printing was significantly advanced by dini, known in the tech community as The Man Who prints Houses for his development of the world’s first 3d printer capable of printing construction-scale structures. The italian is, however, a very modest man and insists he merely ‘cleaned up the process’. Today he is working towards the production of a printer able to create structures up to 36 cubic metres in size. Monaco’s latest artificial reefs were produced using dolomite, volcanic ash and a mysterious binder. dini says that if a geologist looked at the final product, they would agree it was like solid rock. “Arriving at the perfect formula was part luck and part mistake,” laughs dini, who explains that the binder used is ‘basically concentrated seawater’. The process begins with a 3d object created using a computer-aided design model that is then split into hundreds or even thousands of slices. dolomite that has been ground into a powdery form is spread out in thin layers of 5mm and the binder is applied to only the exact areas identified in that slice. “The key aspect of the printing technology is that it en-


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Time for immersion

ables the reproduction of not only the outer, but also the inner shape of natural reefs,” says a spokesperson for boskalis. “A scientific study has revealed that the water flow characteristics through the reef contribute greatly to the health of an artificial reef.” printing each reef took over 12 hours – not including the amount of time it took to dig out each piece and clear away the aggregate from its interior holes and spaces. “While dolomite isn’t traditionally used for maritime purposes, the calcium magnesium carbonate is essentially the seafloor,” explains dini. “There’s a poetry in returning it to that environment! it gives a very homogeneous finish in a beautiful creamy pink colour, and the pH of dolomite is also ideal for the reefs as it is close to the natural pH of coral. it provides a much friendlier home to species than concrete, which has a basic pH of 13 and can contaminate the organisms that make their home on the reef.”

Top left photo THE REEFS ARE PREPARED FOR IMMERSION © J. M. Mille Left photo THE BOSkALIS TEAM DIGS A REEF OUT OF THE LEFTOVER AGGREGATE © Rene Van Der Kloet / Boskalis Top right photo A REEF IS POSITIONED ABOVE THE LARVOTTO RESERVE © P. Francour ECOMERS / Boskalis

Three years after prince Albert first heard about boskalis’ project, the reefs were finally immersed off the coast of Monaco at a depth of 27 metres in November 2017. in total, six large reefs measuring 1.95m in diameter and 1.25m in height (and weighing 2.5 tonnes each) were sunk in a triangle shape, with two at each point, several metres from the reserve’s seagrass fields on the silty seabed. At the centre of the triangle, a mini-village of reefs a quarter of the size was planted. “This specific set-up, in a place where there are little natural habitats, will increase the likelihood of colonisation by different species,” explains AMpN’s gautierdebernardi, “and allow us to develop an index by which to measure their structural complexity that we can compare with natural habitats.” As previously mentioned, recent scientific studies have suggested that the increase in the complexity of a structure leads to an increase of biological diversity. “These 3d printed structures are the first step in imagining reefs designed to draw in certain species: the dusky grouper, octopus, langoustine, and juveniles, for example,” continues gautier-debernardi. “The reefs feature cavities and holes of different sizes; they are welladapted for a range of animals.” over the next two years, the reefs will be closely monitored by divers and students from the eCoMers laboratory of the University of Nice, and AMpN will inspect the units on a frequent basis. “They will be looking at the behaviour of the fish and crustaceans, as well as the colonisation of the reef by taking samples of the biofilm where the growth of algae and bacteria is evident,” explains a spokesperson from boskalis, which hopes to extend the project if it proves successful. “The results will then be compared with other artificial and natural reefs in the Larvotto reserve and surrounding research sites.” dini too will be keeping a close eye on the Monegasque reefs: “This kind of work is so very interesting and it is huge news for Monaco and the Mediterranean. i have been diving and snorkeling since my childhood and would ever say that seawater is in my blood. in these dangerous times of global warming and depleted fish stocks, i am proud to be fighting for marine populations – building for another form of life is not a matter of business, but a passion borne out of love. You can create almost anything imaginable with 3d printing; it is a beautiful and unique art.”  march / aPril 2018


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TogeTher They are 100 Two landmark birthdays for the House of Grimaldi On 14th March, Prince albert ii will enter his 60th year. a few weeks earlier, Princess Charlene celebrated her 40th birthday on 25th January. By PETRA HALL

© Eric Mathon/ Palais Princier

rince Albert is turning 60? That cannot be! And yet, on 14th March 1958, princess grazia patrizia – formerly known as American actress grace kelly – gave birth to her second child in the palais princier. The future sovereign, Hereditary prince Albert Alexandre Louis pierre Marquis de baux, was born! He had an elder sister (by little over a year) in princess Caroline, but to this day, the Monegasque constitution provides that a boy is first in line. More than half a century has passed since the principality fired 101 cannon shots in celebration and the population rejoiced in an important event for the future of the small country. in all those years, heavy blows of fate and moments of pure happiness have marked the life of the prince. Albert spent his childhood with his siblings and family, particularly in the loving care of his warm-hearted and charismatic mother. it would have been she who instilled in him his openness to others and his remarkable empathy. Today he has worked his way towards the

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status of an ever popular and highly respected regent, with a well-rounded human intelligence and commendable sensitivity to all areas of public life. but back to the early days… Like many other Monegasque children, the young prince graduated from the Lycée Albert ier on the rock in 1976. over a lunch, he once told me – laughing in memory – of how he suffered under his strict german teacher, Armand Zwiller. Then, from 1977 to 1981, he studied political science, economics, psychology and other subjects in his mother’s homeland at the Amherst College. 1982 brought the first major shock. When he was 24, his beloved mother tragically died. “it took me years to get over it,” he later said in an interview. His father, prince rainier iii, slowly trained the son in the official business of a sovereign, but it would take more than 20 years for prince Albert to ascend to the throne. on 6th April 2005, the patriarch died, and on 12th July of that year, prince Albert was crowned. While prince rainier iii went down in Monegasque history as the builder, his son has forged his own identity as a consummate fighter for the future of our planet. Thanks to his commitment to the environment and the establishing of a foundation in his name – the Fondation prince Albert ii de Monaco – the world no longer perceives the principality as just a wealthy and privileged nation. it has become a symbol of sustainability. The year after his coronation, the prince followed in the footsteps of his great-great-grandfather, Albert i, to become the first head of state to undertake an expedition to reach the North pole. Three years later, a trip to the Antarctic. since then, he has won numerous international awards for his conservation and protection efforts, but his boyish modesty has not changed. Transparency has been a leitmotif of his reign. in the past, Monaco was blacklisted as a tax haven. While the prince cares deeply about the economic development of his country, it is not at any price. With countless new decrees, he has created a more modern – and more open – state. Finally, in 2011, wedding bells, long-awaited by the Monegasque people, rang. prince Albert and princess Charlene were married on 1st July. Ahead of their marriage, the prince officially recognised his two children from previous relationships; this too belonged to his principles of transparency. on 10th december 2014, prince Albert and princess Charlene welcomed the birth of twins Jacques and gabriella. The principality once again revelled in the happy news; the future was assured. They have been 60 well-filled and well-used years. Congratulations, Monseigneur, and bon anniversaire, prince Albert! 



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rePorTing from The yachT cluB de monaco

anTarcTic Blanc exPediTion The 12 sailors of the Antarctic blanc expedition, of which the YCM is a partner, will now have hopefully completed their two-week mission through one of the most dangerous maritime routes in the world – drake’s passage – aboard a 22m sailing yacht. david gamba, who runs the YCM’s whale watching programme in the pelagos sanctuary, was commissioned to represent the principality during the expedition. He was tasked with observing cetaceans in their wild state and collecting data for a scientific team. The project’s goal is ‘to pay tribute to all explorers and sailors who risk their lives crossing the Antarctic and contribute to a general awareness of the beauty and importance of protecting our planet’s remotest areas’. 

an institution in the principality since its founding in 1953, the YCM unites over 2,000 prestigious members of 66 nationalities in their love of sailing and the oceans. By CLAIRE LATHBURY

L-R: YCM SPORTING DIRECTOR PAOLO GHIONE; METEOROLOGY OFFICER AND ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES COORDINATOR DR. BENON Z. jANOS; DAVID GAMBA, WHO RUNS THE YCM’S WHALE WATCHING PROGRAMME IN THE PELAGOS SANCTUARY; GERD O. ZIEGENFEUTER, REPRESENTING THE DIRECTORS COMMITTEE OF THE YCM; AND jOCHEN WERNE, COFOUNDER OF GOST (GLOBAL OFFSHORE SAILING TEAM), WHO ORGANISED THE ANTARCTIC BLANC PROjECT. © YACHt CLuB DE MONACO

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1sT monaco gloBal series From 1st to 8th June, a dozen teams will be participating in the first ever Monaco global series, a 1,400 nautical mile-long course and the first part of the now-renamed iMoCA 2018-2020 championship. over the four days and three nights of racing, the double-hander offshore race will: depart from the principality on 3rd June (after two days of sporting and social events), follow the west coast of Corsica before making for the Aeolian islands, tacking in front of stromboli. palermo is the last italian stop, and then it’s on to the balearics and finally Monaco for the prize giving ceremony. “Following our participation in the rolex Fastnet race 2018, we were keen to host these 60’ mono-hulls for the first time in Monaco [on a] course that showcases the beauty of the Mediterranean and its enormous potential for sailing,” says YCM Vice-president pierre Casiraghi. 

THE MALIZIA II, THE YCM’S OFFSHORE FLAGSHIP, IS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE BEST MONO-HULLS IN THE CLASS © Mesi

naTions TroPhy mediTerranean league

PARTICIPANTS ARE CHALLENGED TO DESIGN AND BUILD PROPULSION SYSTEMS THAT DERIVE THEIR POWER FROM CLEAN ENERGY SOURCES © Mesi

From 27th to 31st March, the YCM will host the official opening of the 2018 Nations Trophy Mediterranean League for the swan one design classes (Clubswan 50, Clubswan 42 and swan 45). A new circuit in one-design racing – where all yachts are the same – the event is all about ‘strategy, tactics, crew work and sailing technique’. describing the swan series as ‘a subtle essence of elegance and performance’, YCM general secretary bernard d’Alessandri says, “The YCM is pleased to open its door to this prestigious class.” “The Nations Trophy Med league couldn’t have a better christening,” says Nautor’s swan group executive Chairman Leonardo Ferragamo. “We are very glad to have such an important partner.”

solar & energy BoaT challenge between 12th and 14th July, the YCM is expanding its ecological boat Challenge to embrace all clean energy sources. Traditionally a solarpowered event since 2014 under the patronage of solar impulse mind bertrand piccard, the goal is now to promote optimised propulsion systems that derive their power from renewable energies. it is the only event of its kind in the world and comes with the support of the Fondation prince Albert ii, the Hydros Foundation and the international powerboating Federation. “our wish is to bring together a new generation of engineers to imagine and build the motorboats of tomorrow,” says YCM general secretary bernard d’Alessandri. “it is an integral part of the principality’s commitment to the environment… if we want to position Monaco as the capital of yachting, we are duty-bound to play our part in these technical advances. These students are reinventing motorboating. How can we not support them?” Aside from the main event, entrants are to be given a one-design catamaran hull from the Monaco energy Class. Their task is to build a cockpit and design ‘the most powerful and durable propulsion system possible, all from a given amount of energy’. 

MONACO HAS BEEN CHOSEN TO LAUNCH THE 2018 NATIONS TROPHY MEDITERRANEAN LEAGUE FOR SWAN ONE DESIGN CLASSES © Ettore Mattiello march / aPril 2018


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www.printempsdesarts.com

What? This leading cultural event unites musicians from around the world for a series of concerts, conferences, operas and workshops. Themes for the 2018 edition include American music, Mozart, young and emerging artists, the clarinet, contemporary opera and dance. The opening concert will take place at 8.30pm in the grimaldi Forum with a performance of Leonard bernstein and Charles ives works by the orchestre National de France (directed by Yutaka sado, as seen below).

© Yuji Hori

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Printemps des Arts de MonteCarlo

When? 16th March to 29th April

Where? esteemed locations in and around the principality: grimaldi Forum, Yacht Club de Monaco, Académie rainier iii, Auditorium rainier iii, Musée océanographique, opéra garnier, Théâtre des Variétés, Tunnel riva, Conseil National and Menton’s basilic saint-Michel

sPring/summer agenda

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art & culture in the Principality of Monaco

© Alice Blangero

www.balletsdemontecarlo.com

What? guided by the awardwinning Jean-Christophe Maillot, the ballets de MonteCarlo offers a rich and diverse programme for the first half of 2018, including a collaboration with the printemps des Arts festival at the end of April. season highlights: imprévus in partnership with the ecole supérieure d’Arts plastiques de Monaco from 9th to 11th May; the Académie princesse grace’s gala on 23rd and 24th June; three exceptional soirées for the Festival du Monaco dance Forum from 12th to 14th July; and Joseph Hernandez’s

Ballets de Monte-Carlo

White darkness with choreography by Nacho duato from 26th to 29th July.

When? The end of April until the end of July

Where? grimaldi Forum and the salle garnier of the opéra de MonteCarlo


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pharaohs & financing A golden year at the Grimaldi Forum

© Alice Blangero

www.grimaldiforum.com

What? Now in its third year, artmonte-carlo has invited 40 international galleries to exhibit alongside a dozen special exhibitions from major institutional and private collections. The event’s concept is of a quality artistic platform that ‘meets the demand of collectors from the Côte d'Azur… and contributes to the cultural development of the region’.

artmontecarlo

When? 28th and 29th April

Where? grimaldi Forum

fter the success of the 2017 major summer exhibition, La Cité interdite (beijing’s Forbidden City), which attracted a record 47,000 visitors, the grimaldi Forum announced this year’s offering at a special press event in mid-January. entitled The golden Treasures of the pharaohs: 2,500 Years of the goldsmith’s Art in Ancient egypt, the large-scale exhibition – that includes pieces never seen before outside of egypt – will take place from 7th July to 9th september. The occasion was also an opportunity for renowned private bank in Monaco, Compagnie Monégasque de banque, to announce the renewal of its support for the principality’s leading cultural institution for the 12th time since 2005. As the

A

official document was signed, direction of communications for the grimaldi Forum, Hervé Zorgniotti, thanked the bank’s general director, etienne Franzi, for CMb’s ‘precious support’. other culture and event highlights in 2018 include: the annual printemps des Art festival, which will open with a nod to Us musical masters (16th March to 29th April); the eVer renewable energies and ecological vehicles forum (10th to 12th April); a tribute to Maria Callas (10th to 15th April); the next generation of magicians with The illusionists (11th to 14th April); Top Marques (19th to 22nd April); artmonte-carlo (28th and 29th April); a collector cars auction by rM sotheby’s (12th May); the Festival de Télévision de MonteCarlo (15th to 19th June); and the Fondation prince Albert ii awards (22nd June).  www.grimaldiforum.com march / aPril 2018


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where arT Thou? Exciting events & groundbreaking exhibitions in the region By SARAH HYDE

RECOMMENDATIONS riviera insider is always interested to find out about stimulating cultural events and artistic exhibitions in the south of France. You can get in touch with your recommendations at: rivierainsider@rivierapress.fr!

 Left photo

jULIEN MONFORT’S MOA IN SAINT-CYR-SUR-MER (20012003) © Philippe Ruault  right photo

PEZO VON ELLRICHSHAUSEN’S SOLO HOUSE IN SPAIN (2009-2013) © Pezo von Ellrichshausen

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ith spring arriving on the French riviera, the art scene is bursting with renewed potential and there is plenty to do and see. For those who love design and style, there is an incredible domestic pools exhibition at the Villa Noailles, which takes us on a journey through swimming pool design and architecture, from the unusual to positively space Age. The exhibition is open until 18th March, but the venue is well-worth the effort of travelling to Hyères even if only to see its own pool. in saint-paul-de-Vence, the Fondation Maeght never ceases to inspire. The current show, est-ce ainsi que les hommes vivent ? (is this how men live?), draws on the impressive permanent collection. it includes a particularly fascinating image of Nureyev from the studio of Francis bacon. Was the curator perhaps anticipating the upcoming film on the russian ballet dancer’s life, The White Crow, directed by ralph Fiennes? Another outstanding piece is the stunning Jean Miro 1972 L’oiseau au plumage rouge. Art lovers should be prepared to give in to temptation at the nearby gallery bookstore basse Fontaine in Vence, which has several copies of beyond the Mirror as well as an exhibition space displaying the silk scarves the Maeght gives to its clients each year and a wide selection of the Christmas cards produced by Matisse. if photography is your passion, there is a wonderful new exhibition at the Musée de la Photographie Charles Nègre in Nice: A History of photography through the Collection of Lola garrido (until 13th May).

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Monaco’s Villa Sauber, the location of some of the most interesting contemporary shows in the region, has recently become an artistic laboratory with LAb#2. “LAb is about turning the museum into a laboratory,” says the museum. “With this second edition, LAb#2 wants to continue the redefinition of what a museum really is… or, rather, it wants to do away with definitions.” As such, the establishment, which is part of the Nouveau Musée Nationale de Monaco, has invited a number of artists, including two linked to the principality – Michel blazy and Félix dol Maillot – to consider what the museum of tomorrow will look like. For those who are prepared to travel a bit further afield for their love of art, Valentine’s day marked the beginning of Quel Amour! in Marseille and provence. From now until the start of september, some 450 events, festivals and exhibitions will be taking place as part of Mp2018 (www.mp2018.com). Another huge picasso show is on the programme, but is almost certainly eclipsed by news out of Aix-en-provence about the Musée jacqueline et Pablo Picasso. The venue is still in its planning stages, but will doubtless add further cultural depth to the already impressive city. back in Monaco, there are two events to look forward to in the coming months: artmonaco and its glittering society events, and NoMAd, which was well-received last year. several local galleries in the principality have also banded together for Monaco Art Week. The end of April will be a very exciting time. in the meantime, Mougins will be the site of The past is Now at the Musee d'Art Classique. opening on 16th March, the exhibition will feature the works of Leo Caillard and is part of a larger programme from king’s College London. 


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more Than fooTBall Hi-tech football at Soccer Park Antibes Centre director Loïc viallon takes riviera insider on a tour of the region’s leading five-a-side facility.

photo 1 IT’S LIGHT-HEARTED AND A LITTLE ROUGH-ANDTUMBLE!” © D.R.

photo 2 LOïC VIALLON, THE CENTRE DIRECTOR OF SOCCER PARk ANTIBES. © D.R.

By ELSA CARPENTER 2

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ven though we visit in mid-January, it’s warm enough to watch two teams from sophia Antipolis play off against each other on one of the outdoor pitches at lunchtime. Under the winter sun, they swiftly canvas the 26-metre by 16-metre terrain before a player strikes gold with the deciding goal: 19-18. Five-a-side is quicker than a standard football game – between 45 and 60 minutes on average – and the score board often runs much higher. The grass underfoot is artificial, but features fine fibres and a softness that mimics natural conditions. soccer park Antibes has three indoor pitches and two outside the main building to offer an all-year, allweather service. The centre opened in 2010 as the first designated soccer park. in 2016, two five-a-side companies (Le Five and soccer park) merged to become groupe Le Five, whose network now counts 40 different sites across the country. Antibes is the dominant facility

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in the south of France – conveniently placed between Cannes, Nice and Monaco with its closest neighbours being in Manosque and Vitrolles near Marseille – but the group is opening an average of six new locations a year so others could be on the horizon soon. From the spectator zone outside, centre director Loïc Viallon explains the soccer park concept: fun sporting facilities that combine exercise and team spirit with the very latest in technology. The two outdoor pitches are equipped with hi-tech cameras that record the movements of each player. The equipment enables players to watch back on key moments of the game as well as track their personal statistics: the number of goals scored and their rankings among other soccer park players. “We’re also in the test phase of another new technology,” he explains. “players can place a chip behind the knee that records the speed and force of a kick, and how many kilometres they have run. it adds another dimension to play, and users will be able to keep a track of their performances over


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time to see where they’re improving. We’re open from 10.30am till midnight on weekdays and 10am till 10pm at the weekends, and are working to build up activity during les heures creuses (off peak hours). play during the day and at the weekend is €7 a player, and €9 after 6pm on weekdays. Whatever the time of day, players should reserve their game on our website.” The corporate crowd is one Loïc and his team are keen to attract. A group is just finishing up a postgame pizza in the sports bar before heading back up the hill to the business park. one method soccer park Antibes is using is a ‘lunchtime league’. The corporate service invites businessmen and women to come along for two hours of play during their lunch break, working off any stresses that might have built up during the day. The centre already runs four leagues, which take place over three to four months and currently include 37 local teams. in total, they represent around 20% of the soccer park’s turnover so are an important strategy for the facility. but soccer park Antibes isn’t just for amateur fivea-siders; it’s attracted several well-known professional footballers too. irish defender richard dunne, who has made more than 430 premier League appearances (including +250 for Manchester City), is a regular at the facility along with a group of Anglophone expats. Former French players like Louis saha – who spent much of his professional career in the british premier League at Fulham FC, Manchester United and everton – Lassana diarra (Chelsea, Arsenal and real Madrid), Cannes-native and international player Johan Micoud, and sylvain distin, who played sixteen consecutive seasons in the premier League between 2001 and 2016, have all tried out the Antibes pitches as well as portuguese ricardo Carvalho, who most recently played for As Monaco before moving to shanghai sipg last year. big names, big brands. The centre also maintains an exclusive partnership with Adidas, who supplies the 68 youngsters in the Adidas Five Academie5 programme with uniform and the proshop with footwear from its specialist indoor range: “Lighter and more stable for indoor terrain than traditional boots,” says Loïc. soccer park Antibes also works closely with Nissan, a major sponsor of the UeFA Champions League. The director and his team recently organised a large-scale teambuilding event at the Antibes facility for the vehicle manufacturer, which included a bubble Foot experience. Available from €200 for the hour and for eight to 15 players, bubble Foot follows much of the same, simple rules as five-a-side, only players and their arms are encased in an inflated bubble. it’s light-hearted and a little rough-and-tumble, but Loïc says it’s been a hit with visitors of all ages and genders; particularly the female members of Nissan’s équipe.” 

“soCCer pArk ANTibes isN’T JUsT For AMATeUr FiVe-Asiders… iT’s ATTrACTed seVerAL WeLLkNoWN proFessioNAL FooTbALLers Too: riCHArd dUNNe, LoUis sAHA, LAssANA diArrA, JoHAN MiCoUd, sYLVAiN disTiN ANd riCArdo CArVALHo”

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TEAMBUILDING & BIRTHDAYS Five-a-side matches Bubble5

Bespoke & corporate rates available rental of sports bar

anniv’ Foot5 package from €150 (an hour and a half of five-a-side plus 30 minutes in the sports bar)

anniv’ Bubble5 package from €250 (an hour of Bubble5, 30 minutes of five-a-side plus 30 minutes in the sports bar)

ADIDAS FIVE ACADEMIE5

For children aged six to 12 €249 a season

34 five-a-side sessions over the year Coaching by full qualified staff adidas kit

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Three indoor & two outdoor pitches ProShop & sports bar

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Outdoor area for BBQs & events during warmer months Pétanque court ample parking

march / aPril 2018


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 Main photo THE SPECTACULAR SETTING ON THE MONTE-CARLO COUNTRY CLUB © P.H.Sébastien Darrasse

The magic of monaco PRETOURNAMENT EVENTS Friday 13th April Drawing of the matches at 6.30pm in the atrium of the Monte-Carlo Casino; spectators outside might catch a glimpse of their favourite players! Saturday 14th April a show match featuring the top players of the tournament, with proceeds going towards the Fondation Prince albert ii de Monaco association

TIE BREAK PACKAGE Get up close and personal with the players with one overnight stay for two at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & resort, a few steps from the stadium, from €1,535 euros (including Prestige tickets, access to the viP village, and lunch in the MonteCarlo Country Club) march / aPril 2018

From 14th to 22nd april, one of the most important events on the international tennis circuit, the rolex Monte-Carlo Masters, invites you to the Country Club. By AILA STöCkMANN

n April, Monaco hosts not only one of the oldest tennis tournaments ever – it celebrates its 112th edition in 2018 – but also an important sporting and social event on the calendar of the principality. once you're there, you'll understand the magic of the rolex Monte-Carlo Masters, where world-class sport is played against the unprecedented backdrop and intimate atmosphere of the Monte-Carlo Country Club. it’s no wonder that the players are also enthusiastic about the tournament. Last year, 17 of the 20 best male tennis stars in the world were among them, including spaniard rafael Nadal, the clay court king par excellence. The latter only won the title for an unbelievable 10th time in Monaco. rarely can spectators get as close to the players as they do in the principality. Countless autographs are signed at the edges of the courts and you will often come across them training or in the corridors of the venue. The event draws more fans every year and in 2017, all seven tournament days sold out ahead of the competition. The final roll-call of players will be announced on 19th March – the deadline for the world’s 45 best players. Tournament director Zeljko Franulovic expects rafael

I

Nadal, Novak djokovic and Marin Cilic as well as the ‘young, wild ones’ like german Alexander Zverev and Austrian dominic Thiem. “but one or the other – just like Nadal and djikovic – is struggling with injuries,” says Franulovic, before adding with a wink, “the only usual title contender who’s currently in top shape is roger Federer, the youngest of them all...” Hopes are running high that the 36-year-old swiss player, who is widely considered to be the best of all time, will return to Monaco after a break last year. “i’m in close contact with his family,” says the tournament director, “and am therefore confident that he will come!” Could Nadal secure an 11th win at the first major tournament of the year in europe? Franulovic says a ‘youngster’ might be in with a chance, perhaps Zverev or Thiem, who are ranked fifth and sixth respectively in the world at the moment. even without a win, Nadal will still be honoured: the Monte-Carlo bay Hotel & resort, the five-star headquarters of the players, a ball’s throw away from the complex, recently named a suite after him!  www.rolexmontecarlomasters.mc


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exTreme aPPeal of liguria

How a small piece of Liguria became a magnet for athletes from the world over

Free climbing, mountain biking, treks, a vegan community… The area around Finale Ligure in the Province of Savona has experienced a rapid image change in recent years from a sleepy seaside town to a region abuzz with a new generation of extreme sports athletes every month in the calendar. By PETRA HALL & ELSA CARPENTER THE HILLS ABOVE FINALE LIGURE CONTAIN MORE THAN 3,500 CLIMBING TRAILS OF VARYING DIFFICULTY © DR

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nly a few decades ago, the Finalborgo neighbourhood was considered run-down, dark, dirty and even dangerous. Today, the historic centre is known as one of Liguria’s most beautiful villages and has won the i più bei borghi d’italia award. This incredible redevelopment is in large part thanks to visionaries who recognised the potential of the heritage and unique landscape of Finale Ligure as well as its capacity to move beyond beach-limited, summeronly tourism. european Union funds did the rest. All year round, thousands of bikers, climbers and walkers come to Finale. There are organised events here too, such as the famous enduro World series cycling race that finds its crowning glory in the Finalesian hills after stops in Australia and Colorado. europe’s biggest 24-hour mountain bike championship, the WeMbo World solo, is also hosted here. 500 kilometres of tracks wind through the Mediterranean scrub, descending on steep trails from the mountains to the beach, and have helped make Finale Ligure – split into Finalmarina, Finalborgo, Finalpia and Varigotti – one of the world capitals of the mountain bike movement. This applies to free climbing too. The region has one of the most extensive karst areas in italy – its calcareous rocks are characterised by natural holes and handles that are ideal for the brave climbers who visit. in Finalborgo, there is also an artificial training centre available. The territory around Finale Ligure offers 192 separate climbing walls, comprising 3,500 routes of varying difficulty, but all set in breath-taking scenery. The first routes were opened as far back as 1968, but it has taken decades for the ‘big boom’ of interest to occur. perhaps it is this decelerated and relaxed way of life that is part of what makes Liguria so desirable as a destination. in 2015, the five municipalities of Finale Ligure, Calice Ligure, orco Feglino, Vezzi portio and rialto came together to launch the Finale outdoor resort initiative. The result is a trademark and brand that clearly defines the unique identity – both historical and cultural – of this area as well as its rich, natural landscape. The villages have retained their medieval charms, but the impact of the colourful community of sportsmen and women – professionals and amateurs alike – is unmistakable. specialised shops, cosy bars, repair workshops and bicycle stands are aplenty. outside a bakery that is nearly 100 years old, a sign denotes its vegan qualities. restaurant owners and the pizzerias have welcomed the influx of tourists, and have had their hands full adapting to the tastes and preferences of their growing clientele; Finale Ligure lays claim to being italy’s first ‘vegan-friendly comune’. giulia riggio and her husband gigi have run sbuc-

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cia, an artsy café on the Via Nicotera of Finalborgo, for the past six years. smoothies and vegetarian cuisine are on the menu, and the small but welcoming room is often packed. The couple is delighted with the new customers. “it is truly wonderful how international our guests are,” says giulia from the midst of baking pies and making fragrant cappuccino. “The city has to move and be flexible, doing more so that Finale does not lose its newfound appeal.” Another popular place for tired athletes to rest their limbs and recuperate is the bar Centrale, also in Finalborgo, which has been owned by renate Heckgrosso, a german expat, and her husband giuseppe for nearly 60 years. They are well-known for their delicious, homemade ice creams. renate too feels very positive about the growth in tourism. “What i particularly like about our visitors is that they bring work for the whole community. Local shops, restaurants, hotels and apartment rentals are all equally satisfied – and it is almost yearround! it is also nice that people come back! We have not raised our prices. it is important to welcome them in a friendly way,” she says from the bar before heading out into the garden to pick tangerines for the natural gelato. bed & breakfast accommodation as well as a whole range of agriturismos are embracing the booming industry, with many now able to stay open during the winter months – something many of their Ligurian neighbours, who are typically summer-focused, will be envious of. “i am convinced that this type of tourism can lead to year-round, full employment,” says mayor Ugo

“FiNALe is diFFereNT FroM pUrpose-bUiLT bike pArks ANd ALpiNe resorTs, iN THAT is HAs AN eLeMeNT oF reAL iTALiAN CULTUre To iT. iT’s A FUNCTioNiNg ToWN WiTH HisTorY THAT HAsN’T beeN THroWN Up For THe sAke oF ToUrisM.”

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Franscherelli. “of course, most visitors will continue to come here in the summer because of our beaches and the excellent water quality, but more and more people are choosing Finale in the autumn, winter and spring for climbing, mountain bike riding, horseback riding, hiking, sailing and surfing. This development of outdoor tourism is becoming more and more important not only for Finale Ligure, but also for the whole region. in the world of free climbers and mountain bikers, Finale is the epitome of single-track and technical climbing walls, and of freedom and adventure. it has everything that outdoor fans love and has established itself as an international trademark of extreme sports.” british expat James Mcknight, who lives near Annecy in the Alps but frequently heads down to Finale and the italian coast, says, “it is quite bonkers how the bike scene, number of shops, shuttle companies and other businesses have multiplied over the last few years in Finale: partly due to the enduro World series events and in part thanks to an expanding and more official trail network, mapping and structure in town. Finale is different from purpose-built bike parks and Alpine resorts, in that is has an element of real italian culture to it. it’s a functioning town with history that hasn’t been thrown up for the sake of tourism. This element makes it all the better for a bike trip with more than just great trails – of which Finale has many. i prefer the feeling of exploring a place not just for its trails, but also its history and culture. i think a lot of experienced mountain bikers feel the same way and the food is, of course, to die for!” 

insider TiPs Mountain biker James McKnight tells Riviera Insider where the best trails are for riders of all abilities in Finale, the best-known and most-photographed trails are near Le Manie – they are picturesque above the shimmering Mediterranean. However, those trails are dry and very rocky, and in fact the most fun trails are behind Finalborgo in the hills around orco Feglino and Calice Ligure… Nice, earthy singletrack with trails for most levels of rider. in punta Ala – another up-and-coming resort further south in Tuscany – there are great trails for all riders directly from the beach resort at punta Ala Trail Center. it’s a different experience from Finale; a quiet experience on the shores of some of the best beaches in italy. Also highly recommended!” 

© Ben Winder

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golf

Teeing off on the Côte d’azur: valescure

where golf has Been Played for 120 years Golf de valescure is a time-honoured place founded by a group of english aristocrats who, appreciative of the mild climate in the French riviera, began playing here as far back as 1895. Some years later, in around 1910, the course was extended to 18 holes by the famous and acclaimed golf course architect Harry Shapland Colt. valescure can’t claim to be the oldest in France – that’s in Pau, Pyrénées-atlantiques, and opened in 1856 – but it has certainly welcomed many generations of golfers on to its lawns and is the longest established in the var.

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he course is one of the shortest on the Côte d’Azur, with around 5,000 metres of yellow in an oasis of calm between saint raphaël and Fréjus. A flat terrain, it’s surrounded by hundreds of pinus pinea, stone or parasol pines, and is a very pleasant course to play without the need for a golf cart, even in the summer. You’re in the right place if you’re a relaxed type of golfer; one who doesn’t want to spend the whole day out on the course. As long as it’s not too busy, the 18-hole par 68 course can be played in three hours – subject to your skill. it’s nestled so nicely into the landscape; one is very aware that even a century ago, there were people who knew how to design and build beautiful golf courses.

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The longest and most complex hole is the third: a par 5 over 432 metres. of the dozen par 4 holes, there are five over 300 metres in length. good results are possible on these, but you should be aware of the seemingly easy par 3 holes. The 11th, a long par 3 of 191 metres, leaves plenty of room to play. other shorter ones, from 90 to 140 metres, require a precise tee directly onto – or at least close to – the green. Tight spots, water obstacles, and difficult and rough bunkers are skilfully distributed over the relatively small area of Valescure. As it says on the website: “it is necessary to know how to sacrifice length for precision.” A real eye-catcher is the imposing english-style clubhouse, which was built a long time ago and is showing its age.

Much should be done to protect this impressive structure; it would be a pity if it fell into decay or was knocked down and replaced by a modern building. The toilets and hygiene facilities require urgent attention too – they are verging on a disgrace for the players. All in all, i like to play in Valescure, in large part due to the nice staff and the good service in the pro shop and restaurant. At the moment, large banners adorn parts of the square with impressive black and white images from the past 100 years, letting visitors immerse themselves in the history of the club. We must pay homage to the men who founded it, and to Harry Colt for its development. i always look forward to playing in the shade and security of the old parasol pines. 

GOLF CORRESPONDENT RAIMUND THEOBALD

Born in 1956 and a passionate golfer since 1992, raimund is a lover of France in all its forms: the people, the food and wine, the culture, and most importantly Provence and Côte d'azur.

GOLF DE VALESCURE 725 Avenue des Golfs 83700 Saint Raphaël +33 (0)4 94 82 41 42 golfdevalescure@wanadoo.fr www.golfdevalescure.com

The course 18 holes Par 68 Lengths of the different tees: 5,019m white/Slope 135 4,732m yellow/Slope 131 4,495m blue/Slope 136 4,298m red/Slope 129 Driving range, putting and chipping greens Clubhouse with restaurant and beautiful terrace as well as a well-stocked pro shop. Green fee for 18 holes: €78 The course is open all year



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PrivaTe Travel Experience the difference

L-r: Ceo gregorY esCAiCH & sALes direCTor JULieN ViVAreLLi

at its founding in 2012, Premium Monaco was the first dedicated private jet charter company in the principality. Today the team, headed by CeO Gregory escaich and Sales Director Julien vivarelli, transports clients around the world within as little as two hours of notice. By ELSA CARPENTER t first glance, flying in a private jet seems like the ultimate luxury travel option reserved for the rich. However, the industry – and the client base it attracts – has evolved significantly in recent years to become an increasingly viable alternative to stressful commercial flights. in the words of premium Monaco’s sales director, Julien Vivarelli: “When you compare the costs of flying privately to those of last minute commercial travel, a private jet can offer a very different experience for not much of an up in price.” Vivarelli argues that flying in a private jet has become more accessible in the last decade, with many in the industry presenting it as a flexible solution rather than a privilege for the few. There’s no denying that it comes at a higher price, but he says there are people from all backgrounds willing to pay more in order to avoid the trials of flying commercial, namely long-winded connections and hours of queuing at the airport. “premium Monaco uses innovative technology that allows us to find the best aircraft at the best price in real time,” he continues. “The system helps us locate jets closest to the client, so that they avoid waiting times as well as reposition fees. We also have access to a

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fleet of around 7,000 private jets and helicopters in europe, from the four-seat Cessna Citation Mustang to the 16-seat bombardier global express. The Mustang is a very light and economical business jet for shorter flights such as a Nice-London connection, prices for which start at around €7,000 depending on the time of year. The larger global express is a more luxurious option for long haul that we’ve used to fly clients out to destinations like Tokyo, New York, dubai and Thailand. For Nice to Courchevel or geneva, the price of a one-hour helicopter ride for six people is around €3,600.” The company is proud of its ability to organise a take-off anywhere in europe within two hours and within five hours for the rest of the world. in the summer, the most highly requested destinations are in greece, such as the island of Mykonos, the balearics and italy. The south of France is popular throughout the year thanks to events like the Cannes Film Festival, Monaco grand prix and – in 2018 – the Castellet grand prix. Vivarelli says that premium Monaco greets all of its clients in the region at the airport, whether that of Nice, Monaco’s heliport, Cannes or saint Tropez. The team is young, dynamic and can be available around the clock via Whatsapp. “our client base is extremely varied, from nationality to reasons for flying privately,” says

Vivarelli. “We might be working with a busy Ceo who has meetings in four different locations within 24 hours on one day, a family who wants to fly up to the Alps for a skiing holiday the next, and an athlete or celebrity travelling to an event the following day. We’ve even transported pets to their owners on holiday, provided the location for an on-board marriage proposal and assisted a film team with a shoot. one family booked a jet because they wanted their baby’s first flight to be private!” There’s no denying that there’s still a fanciful element to private flight, but it can also be practical. For businessmen and women, a private jet can be the ultimate office environment: discreet and intimate for talks or negotiations that need to be held in a safe, secure space. Having both worked at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, Vivarelli, who holds a degree in Aeronautical science and Management, and company Ceo gregory escaich have amassed a great deal of contacts in the region, and are primed to assist clients with all aspects of travel, from a chauffeur at the airport to a yacht waiting for them in the port. They also assist clients in the purchase of private jets thanks to their connections in the world of ‘off-market’ planes. “premium Monaco offers a totally personalisable service,” concludes Vivarelli. “Flying privately might appear to be a luxury, but it’s an experience you must try. particularly seeing as a helicopter ride to Monaco from Nice can cost just €160 a seat!” info@premium.mc Julien Vivarelli: +33 (0)6 40 62 09 43 www.premium.mc


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flourish wiTh The sPring ANAHAtAFLOW’s Ayurvedic Guideline By MAGALI MAZZEI

e collect toxins in the mind and body when our life experiences are not fully processed. our physical-emotional digestive system needs to be strong and healthy so we can get the best possible nutrition from our environment. once we have recognised them, we can start removing these accumulated impurities from the mind and soul with gentle cleansing and balancing mechanisms. Harmonising our inner rhythms with those of the environment ensures that we get the best possible nutrition, with as little stress as possible. We should be at one with the universal rhythm of nature. our biological functions, like the tides in nature, are subject to ebb and flow as we are in everlasting exchange of energy and information with the universe around us. The entire body system is part of this rhythm, with periods of dynamic activity alternating with periods of rest. When our inner rhythms are tuned to the rhythm of nature, we experience liveliness and joy. When we get out of rhythm, we experience emotional and physical stress and a sense of separateness sets in. These rhythms can be understood as: the day rhythm of 24 hours, created by the rotation of the earth around its axis; the seasonal rhythm

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of the 12-month cycle, caused by the rotation of the earth around the sun; the Moon rhythm, a monthly cycle of the moon revolving around the earth; and the Tidal rhythm, the attraction of the moon to the waters of our earth. These cycles of nature affect our mental, emotional and physical wellbeing on many levels. by paying attention to the signs of our internal and external environment, we can recognise and react accordingly to these indications. during the dry, cold and windy autumn months, we opt for warmer and heavier foods that soothe the Vata, e.g. hearty soups, stews and casseroles. in summer, when the pitta dominates, we choose food, clothing and activities that keep us cool. during the wet, cold spring months, we switch to lighter, warmer foods and spices that balance the kapha. We dress so that we stay warm and dry. Times of transformation – whether manifesting as life-changing transitions or changing seasons – easily lead to an imbalance in our mental and physical condition. during these times of change, it is especially important to pay attention to the basics of healthy living: meditation, regular exercise, nourishment for the senses and emotional healing. 

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LET MAISON DE BEAUTÉ CARITA TAKE CARE OF YOU THE ESSENCE OF BEAUTY AND WELLBEING UNITES IN A STYLISH SALON IN ANTIBES

Founded by Corinne Le Gall in 2005, La Maison de Beauté CARITA has worked with esteemed brands Carita – for its luxurious beauty range – and Leonor Greyl – for natural hair products without parabens and sulphates – for the last four years. Safe in the caring hands of the salon’s professional stylists, enhance your hairstyle or change your look entirely. The specialist team can also advise on balayage and colour (Schwarzkopf, L'Oréal…), and get you red carpet ready for an event or marriage. For the face and body, the institute uses a new technology: Carita-patented CINETIC. Its benefits include:  The diffusion of physiological micro currents The improved penetration of serums and products The stimulation of muscles The firming of the contours of the face Then it’s on to the pampering! Corinne’s wonderful beauticians will take care of all your beauty concerns, from manicures and pedicures to waxing and make-up sessions.

The team awaits your visit… Open Tuesday to Friday from 9am to 7pm and Saturday f rom 9am to 6pm non-stop.

ToP marques 15 years of supercars at the Grimaldi Forum rom 19th to 22nd April, the grimaldi Forum will host the 15th edition of Top Marques. The event displays luxury in a variety of ways with some of the most expensive and exclusive cars on the market, watches, jewellery and even ‘superboats’. Car fanatics can even try out a range of vehicles on a specially

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MaIsOn de BeauTé CarITa 27 Boulevard robert soleau, 06600 antibes Tel : +33 (0)4 93 34 87 00

prepared track. The event is open daily from 10am to 8pm (until 7.30pm on the sunday). Admission is €39, but riviera insider has a number of tickets to give away! To be in with a chance of winning, please email secretariat@riviera-press.fr with the heading Top Marques and your complete postal address before 5th April. good luck!  march / aPril 2018


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Travel

Time ouT New Age camping By AILA STöCkMANN & PETRA HALL

What better way to escape from everyday life on the coast than to head into the mountains? Whether it’s a weekend high up in a treehouse, a retreat by the river or a night under a starry sky, adventure awaits at these original locations…

Bubbles in the Alpes-Maritimes 44.09°n, 6.98°e s if sleeping in the open air, but protected in warmth from the chill of an early spring night, Le Cians on the edge of the Mercantour National park is home to two bubble tents. The site is very close to the Valberg ski resort so there might still be snow in March or even April, but the bulles are winterproof! An overnight stay for two with champagne and breakfast costs €179 in winter and €149 in summer. on request: spa treatments, relaxation in the Nordic bath and quad excursions.  ➔ www.camping-le-cians.fr

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43.72°n, 6.99°e t the base of gourdon, not far from the gorges du Loup, estelle dallo Amavet offers four themed spheres. “When the rain is lightly drumming on the roof of the ball, it’s almost more romantic than a starry night,” she says. in the morning, you’ll be woken by birdsong and watch the sunrise over the pic de Courmettes from your bed. For breakfast, there’s freshly squeezed fruit juice and home-baked bread. on request: massages and a gourmet dinner.  ➔ www.dreamsbubble.com

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Treehouses in the forests

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43.69°n, 7.12°e voking childhood memories of days spent building forts and climbing trees, the dream comes true in adult life at b&b orion near Vence. You don’t need for forgo luxury here: the rooms are lovingly furnished and everything feels assuredly solid. The smell of wood is simply wonderful. over breakfast, guests enjoy the forest from a squirrel’s perspective: the views of saint paul de Vence are breath-taking. There are four treehouses of different sizes, including the king Louis, which comes with a smaller treehouse just for children. on site, there is also a beautiful natural swimming pool and rustic sauna. Various packages and prices (according to the season) can be found on the website.  ➔ www.orionbb.com

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44.28°n, 7.90°e ouple ileana and davide gave up their jobs in Turin to realise a life in symbiosis with the trees. in La Quiete, in the middle of a historically rich landscape, they have created an oasis of peace and relaxation. For the construction of their comfortable treehouses, which measure an average of 40sqm, the creative pair used red cedar wood from Canada; it blends harmoniously into the beautiful setting. For the baths and interior decoration: italian stone pine and ash. breakfast on the terrace, from which guests can soak up stunning views of the surrounding hills and a unique sunset, comes highly recommended. Treehouses accommodating two to four people cost €135 a night.  ➔ www.laquietepamparato.it

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Photos CLARA CEPPA

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true haven for modern nomads, this internet-free retreat in Tiglieto is elegant and luxurious in the purest definition of the word. Couple roberto and renata have created a scene of serenity with this 25sqm tent, which is surrounded by luscious greenery. The icing on the cake is a big, white bath tub that is fed directly from the icy river that runs alongside the site, then warmed with firewood. roberto bought the land 13 years ago and, for the last three of them, has shared his corner of paradise with the rest of the world via Airbnb. Alongside the tent is an old watermill with a small kitchen for necessary amenities. “We’re trying to build a larger project here,” he says, “something embedded in the nature that takes us away from our plastic and digital age.” The site is located on the fringes of the beigua geo park, which covers almost 40 hectares about one hour northwest of genoa. in 2015, the nature reserve was added to the newly created UNesCo global geoparks list due to its rich geological treasures. one night for two people costs €115 (minimum two nights’ stay) and is bookable on Airbnb. Just search for Tiglieto! 

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A tent by the river 44.50°n, 8.61°e

Photos THOMAS kRUEGER

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a michelin sTar guide in 2018, Le Castellet will celebrate not only the return of the Formula 1 Grand Prix after a decade of absence, but also the three Michelin stars of Christophe Bacquié’s restaurant; the highest privilege in the world of fine dining. By ELSA CARPENTER ith the release of the 2018 Michelin guide, the tally of restaurants owning three Michelin stars in the south of France has risen to four: Alain ducasse's Louis XV in Monaco, gérald passédat’s petit Nice in Marseille, Arnaud donckele with La Vague d'or in saintTropez, and the latest addition of Christophe bacquié’s restaurant in Le Castellet. Across the country, 27 restaurants have received or retained this pinnacle of gastronomic commendation. Winning his third star is the latest acclaim for 45-year-old bacquié, a native of Corsica. in 2017, he won best Hotel restaurant (Hotel du Castellet, a five-star establishment run by his wife, Alexandra, that is less than five minutes’ drive from the famous Circuit paul ricard) at the Villégiature Awards. The year previously, he was crowned Chef of the Year at the Trophées de la gastronomie et des Vins. in the future? “one day, i will be one of the Meilleurs ouvriers de France.” Menus at the restaurant range from the three-course Au Fil de la saison (choices include butternut langoustine or milk-fed veal with grand Cru Arabic and soufflées potatoes) at €135 to the eight-course promenade en Mer for €240 (an exquisite range of fish, shellfish and crustaceans from the Mediterranean sea). Two fine dining institutions in the AlpesMaritimes have been awarded a second star: Hostellerie Jérôme by bruno Cirino in La Turbie, and Flaveur in Nice, which is run by Niçois brothers gaël and Mickaël Tourteaux. They join an esteemed list of establishments who have already achieved la double, among them: Jean-Luc rabanel's L'Atelier in Arles, Villa Madie in Cassis, La Chèvre d'or in eze, L'oasis by Mandelieu-La Napoule, and Villa Archange in Le Cannet. Four restaurants in the region have earned their first star: Lou Cigalon by Christophe Martin in Valbonne, Le relais des Moines in Les Arcs, Matthieu dupuis baumal’s Table de Manville in Les baux-de-provence, and

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Louison by gérald passédat in the Château La Coste vineyard and art centre to the north of Aix-en-provence. At the same time, two establishments on the Côte d’Azur have lost their only star: Au Fil du Temps in grasse and bacon on the Cap d’Antibes.  www.restaurant.michelin.fr

michelin-starred restaurants in the alpes-maritimes: ANTIBES Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit * La Passagère * Les Pêcheurs * BEAULIEU-SUR-MER Le Restaurant des Rois * BIOT Restaurant Les Terraillers * CANNES La Palme d'Or ** Le Park 45 * èZE La Chèvre d'Or ** La Table de Patrick Raingeard * GRASSE La Bastide St-Antoine * LA COLLE-SUR-LOUP Alain Llorca * LA TURBIE Hostellerie Jérôme ** LE CANNET Villa Archange ** LE ROURET Le Clos St Pierre * MANDELIEU-LA NAOUPLE L'Oasis ** MENTON Mirazur ** MOUGINS Paloma ** Le Candille * NICE Chantecler ** Restaurant JAN * L'Aromate * Flaveur ** SAINT-jEAN-CAP-FERRAT Le Cap * TOURRETTES-SUR-LOUP Clovis * VENCE Le Saint-Martin * Les Bacchanales * VALBONNE Le Lou Cigalon-Maison Martin * michelin-starred restaurants in monaco: Le Louis XV *** Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo ** Elsa * Blue Bay * Yoshi * Le Vistamar * michelin-starred restaurants in the var: BORMES-LES-MIMOSAS La Rastègue * CALLAS Hostellerie Les Gorges de Pennafort * FAYENCE Le Castellaras * GASSIN Le Belrose * HYèRES Le Mas du Langoustier * LA-CADIERE-D’AZUR Hostellerie Bérard * LA CELLE Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de la Celle * LA CROIX-VALMER La Palmeraie * LE CASTELLET Christophe Bacquié *** LES ARCS Le Relais des Moines * LORGUES Bruno * Le Jardin de Benjamin * RAMATUELLE La Voile * SAINT-TROPEZ La Vague d'Or *** L'Olivier * TOURRETTES Faventia * TOURTOUR Les Chênes Verts * Top photo THREE STARS FOR CHEF CHRISTOPHE BACQUIé OF THE HOTEL DU CASTELLET © Anne-Emmanuelle thion bottom photo BACQUIé’S AïOLI MODERNE WITH OCTOPUS AND LOCAL PRODUCE © Anne-Emmanuelle thion


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Reader tips enjoying good cuisine, quality wines and excellent company… What could be more south of France? riviera insider asks you, our readers, for your finest recommendations.

Dates & romance

Charlotte Minell

i like low-key places such as Tredici, a new place in Le suquet, which opened in 2017. They use products from the local market and offer good food and service. i’d recommend reserving! La Môme is a super stylish restaurant run by twins and has been the go-to place since it opened in 2016.

Evening drinks

i’m originally from sweden and after bouncing between paris, London and stockholm, my current job as a Meeting & incentive project Manager for an event agency brought me to Cannes a little over three years ago. i’m always searching for good places to use for events… plus i’m a big foodie! Casual lunch with friends rue Hoche is a great, pedestrianised street in the centre of Cannes – in the daytime as well as evening – and all the restaurants have terraces. My favourite places are san Telmo for its generous portions with quality ingredients (in my opinion, the best italian in Cannes) and ristorante Federal. The latter opened in mid-2017 and has amazing, fresh food like ceviche, bruschetta and quinoa salads in the summer time. For fall, they have super tasty soups and dishes from the south America.

depending on the vibe, i love to go to either raw bar (the cocktail bar belonging to La Môme, pictured above) or, if it’s going to be more relaxed, one of Cannes’ many wine bars: Le bar à Vin next to Marché gambetta or posto pubblico by the Carré d’or.

A G O U R M E T E S TA B L I S H M E N T P E R C H E D O N T H E H I L LT O P O F È Z E

15 MINUTES FROM NICE AND MONACO OUTDOOR

1951 Avenue des Diables Bleus | 06360 Èze Tel: +33 (0)4 93 17 31 00 www.restaurant-le-v.com

FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL PRODUCE

TERRACE AND LUXURIOUS GARDEN

Warm welcome Open all year

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LEWIS LONGMAN

Originally from sleepy Suffolk, Lewis Longman moved to Cannes three years ago in the search of something meaningful to fill the predictable void of post-graduate life. Between the ubiquitous palm trees of the sunsoaked Côte d’azur and the terraces of its numerous restaurants, he thinks he has found that something...

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old Town charm Le Cannet serves up an ode to the culinary gods ccording to Cannes’ TripAdvisor, the city has some 660 restaurants, which can sometimes make the challenge of deciding where to eat somewhat difficult. The solution? The old town of Le Cannet, a picturesque and secret suburb five minutes from Cannes. it’s a hidden gourmet gem. We decided to dine at the bistrot saint saveur, No. 1 out of Le Cannet’s 54 restaurants, according to TripAdvisor at least. The restaurant is exactly what it says it is: a bistro oozing charm and class, and above all, seriousness. Two waiters clad in suits welcomed us into the small but comfortable restaurant. Lined with long ceiling height curtains, the décor, while very nice, felt as if it were chosen by the late Hugh Heffner, but then again, i never have been one for fancy things… You know it's a good restaurant when they frivolously give away freshly sliced parma ham. All the diners are lavished with the stuff, sliced onsite by a rustic slicing machine that is bizarrely plopped amongst the many tables. We were eating this ham long before we even opened the menus, but that’s not to say we were served the meat quickly. rather, we just had to wait some time before the waiter realised we would need a menu so as to order our food. This considerable wait for the

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menus was the only downside to an otherwise exceptional evening. We went for the €36 formule, which consisted of three courses from the perfectly crafted menu. each dish was an ode to the culinary gods; a tribute to French cuisine mixed with the comfort of grandma’s cooking, assuming your grandmother’s French, of course. beef cheek with mashed potatoes, roast chicken with a tarragon jus, and Andouillette sausage and chips are just some of the homely dishes on the menu. To start, i had a risotto with veal jus and foie gras – could those latter ingredients be any more French? The wine list was as long as donald Trump’s hairpiece flapping in an inconvenient winter’s wind. prices ranged from the low two figures to high three. We went for a 2014 Chateau godard for €24 – the bottle of red was great value for money and a perfect complement to my beef. To finish: chocolate soup. A bowl of sugary debauchery with pieces of banana and orange zest swimming around in ecstasy. Mu grin increased with each mouthful. simply put, dessert was ludicrously good. Towards the end of the evening, when we and the remaining diners had finished our meals, one of the two servers stood behind the counter polishing wine glasses, staring and smirking at us all, the perfect caricature of a French waiter. The constant buzz of the small restaurant was hushed as the head chef clad in lime green ‘whites’ stepped proudly into the room. He went round all the tables and shook everyone’s hands in a slightly strange yet equally nice ceremony. When he learned that we were from england, refreshingly he did not mention brexit and raise his eyebrows as is the now usual custom, but instead made a comment about fog. once the chef had spoken with all the happy diners, we paid our bill and left, but come rain, wind or shine – or fog! – i will be back. bistrot saint saveur is far too good to only sample once. i urge you: go there and go there now. 


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Saturday 10th March at the Fairmont Monte Carlo

founder of Club Vivanova

We only achieve great things in life by giving back. Our gala is being organised to appreciate the best things in life and offer attendees the chance to donate to worthy, local and lifechanging charities.

gourmeT

lub Vivanova’s Luxury Lifestyle gala is returning to the Fairmont Monte Carlo on saturday 10th March for its fourth and much-awaited annual edition. over 400 guests – including Vip partners such as riviera insider, club members, ambassadors, and distinguished, international business leaders – are expected at the salle d’or ballroom, with proceeds from the event, which has a strict black Tie formal dress code, being donated to the Fondation prince Albert ii of Monaco, Chances for Children and The Animal Fund (TAF). The evening will pair fine wines and a four-course gourmet meal prepared by Meilleur ouvrier de France and executive chef of the four-star resort, philippe Joannès, with a haute couture fashion show, contemporary art exhibition and live entertainment. on the menu: a champagne aperitif of galerie Cristal followed by yuzu-marinated salmon, cabbage flower and quinoa popcorn with 2016 sliding Hill sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. The main course features a 2012 Mozaik syrah from the izmir vineyard in Turkey paired with roasted beef fillet, mushrooms, asparagus tips and truffle potato cromesquis. A brie cheese platter with basil, tomato chutney and sweet spices will follow with a 2012 Château pomeaux from pomerol in France before the meal is rounded off with a citrus dessert, speculoos crumble, coffee or tea, and petits Fours. Tickets can be purchased online or by telephone (+377 99 99 45 66) and are priced at €165 per person.  www.clubvivanova-luxurygala.com

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2018 luxury lifesTyle gala

JOIN CLUB VIVANOVA Club vivanova is the region’s fastest growing expat club and offers a wide range of exciting gourmet and cultural events across the Côte d’azur and abroad. Membership is €120 per year and includes viP invitations to special member-only events, a free edition of riviera insider, a complimentary pack of three premium New World wines delivered to your door and many other benefits, such as free hotel room nights. all Club vivanova members in attendance at the gala will receive a complimentary voucher for a luxurious overnight stay at La vague de Saint Paul on the French riviera! www.clubvivanova.com

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environmenT & yachTing

modern yachTing

12 months. discussions ranged from how to unite in combatting ‘the public and media’s obsession with 100m+ yachts when there are so many other wonderful options’ to questioning why 97% of HNWis do not own a yacht. How to attract millennials, whose ‘consumer patterns are completely different’ from their elders, was also a major debate of the night. Through his extensive experience as a yacht designer, espen oeino was well-placed to comment on changing client tastes. “A private jet is about spending the least amount of time you can getting from A to b, whereas a yacht is where you want to spend as much time as you can,” said oeino. “in the last five to ten

years, there’s been a move towards simplicity in the interior design like steve Jobs’ yacht Venus. We will continue to see these yachts – more Land rover than range rover – as people realise that you don’t need opulence to enjoy nature. They are looking for space, particularly outside living areas, which also helps reduce the build price.” He explained that this change could hold ‘a very promising future for yachts with a scientific vocation such as expedition yachts’: “The philanthropic concept is very important,” he told the room. roberto giorgi, Ceo of Fraser Yachts, compared the expedition yacht market to the luxury cruise market, citing shipbuilder damen who is developing a small cruise yacht for this purpose. He noted a growing tendency for buyers to go for boats with the comforts of a superyacht, but able to do an expedition cruise to the galapagos or Antarctic. As for the long-awaited Chinese market, patience is needed. “They say the Chinese have no yachting culture,” Laurent debart, Ceo of Ypi Monaco, told fellow guests, “but we said the same thing 30 years ago about the russians and emirates. it took 20 years to persuade the Chinese to go on a cruise ship; we need to let the yachting culture develop by adapting our offer to their desires.” All agreed the Chinese today are learning how to sail, being initiated into yachting etiquette, and marinas are being built. it is why the YCM has been supporting yacht clubs in Asia under its label La belle Classe destinations and through its La belle Classe Academy training centre for several years now. 

many people as possible from all walks of life and, as such, various fringe events will be open to all, including plastic pollution workshops, a Corail (coral) exhibition , and a presentation of the biohuts – artificial nurseries for fish and marine animals – that have been installed in Monaco’s

ports. As part of the Monaco blue initiative, the city of edinburgh will also play a part, hosting string of conferences and debates involving local and international experts and the scientific community on 9th April. www.monacooceanweek.org

By CLAIRE LATHBURY

Industry leaders meet in Monaco for the YCM’s 10th Business Symposium encouraging figures for 2017 offer good prospects for growth, but the big challenge for the yachting industry is to innovate and adapt to the needs of emerging markets and future generations of owners. hat was the message from the 10th business symposium, held under the aegis of the Yacht Club de Monaco’s La belle Classe superyachts label and attended by 80 professionals from across the sector. As bernard d’Alessandri, YCM general secretary and president of the Cluster Yachting Monaco, said in his introduction, “it is a privilege to be in a position to welcome owners and yachting professionals round the same table to freely discuss what is happening in our industry.” The annual dinner-debate takes stock of the past year’s global market and looks forward to the next

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monaco ocean week “Oceans are precious, we must protect them” he second edition of Monaco ocean Week will be taking place from 8th to 14th April. The event aims to ‘develop efficient marine conservation actions’ and in particular those generated to battle against climate change and its dangers. An array of conferences, workshops, symposiums, seminars, award ceremonies, exhibitions and screenings will be held at the Musée océanographique, the science Centre, Yacht Club de Monaco and stars’N’bars. Topics on the agenda: monk seal conservation (pictured); the effects of climate change on the oceans; the fight against plastic pollution; and the sustainable consumption of seafood. organisers hope to involve as

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EXHBITIONS UNTiL 7TH MArCH MeNToN 85Th lemon fesTival This year’s theme for the famous lemon and citrus festival festival is bollywood fete-du-citron.com

UNTiL 10TH MArCH MoNACo BugaTTi exhiBiTion discover a range of rare and emblematic bugattis along with prince Albert’s private car collection at the Terrasses de Fontvieille mtcc.mc

UNTiL 11TH MArCH NiCe un monde secreT Watercolour art by Chinese artist Chen Jian at the Musée des Arts Asiatiques arts-asiatiques.com

UNTiL 11TH MArCH sAiNT pAUL de VeNCe esT-ce ainsi que les hommes vivenT? The Fondation Maeght presents an extraordinary ensemble of modern and contemporary works of art fondation-maeght.com

UNTiL 11TH MArCH MoNACo oPen air ice skaTing stade Nautique rainier iii visitmonaco.com

UNTiL 11TH MArCH NiCe jouez! The Musée National du sport consecrates a new temporary exhibition to childhood games and toys museedusport.fr

UNTiL 29TH ApriL CANNes Picasso, la suiTe vollard Center d'Art la Malmaison hosts an exhibition featuring pablo picasso’s sketchings and engravings www.cannes.com

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UNTiL 13TH MAY

13TH To 16TH MArCH

17TH MArCH

NiCe liz magor A retrospective of Canadian artist Liz Magor, the nation’s most influential sculpture of the last 30 years, at the MAMAC mamac-nice.org

CANNes miPim The world’s leading real estate event for industry professionals mipim.com

geNoA PesTo world chamPionshiP For professionals, amateurs and other kitchen talents: who prepares the best pesto genovese? You have to use the mortar! in palazzo ducale all day pestochampionship.it

UNTiL 17TH JUNe Le CANNeT Pierre lesieur: inTérieurs The Musée bonnard welcomes 40 works of pierre Lesieur in a range of formats www.museebonnard.fr

EVENTS 4TH To 11TH MArCH NiCe Paris-nice cycling race one of the most important cycling events in europe, also known as the sun race, will depart from the centre of Nice and return to the Quai des états-Unis paris-nice.fr

9TH To 11TH MArCH geNoA irish fesTival The music, culture and gastronomy of ireland comes to genoa fiera.ge.it

11TH MArCH MoNACo monaco run Three different courses: MonteCarlo 10km, Herculis relay 3x7km, and the 5km walk fma.mc

11TH MArCH sANreMo sanremo in fiore A large floral parade through the streets – it’s carnival time! starting from 10am in the town centre carnevalesanremo.it

15TH & 16TH oF MArCH MoNACo renconTres inTernaTionales Monaco et la Méditerranée Writers, philosophers, sociologists, journalists and political scientists as well as international researchers and experts discuss. Musée océanographique de Monaco rimm-mc.org

opio journées du Bien-ÊTre au féminin Women’s health and well-being mairie-opio.fr

16TH To 17TH MArCH

CANNes cuisine cannoise en fÊTe Food festival cannes.com

sAiNT rApHAeL swimrun esTérel agaThos 18km of trail running and a 5km swim to finish things off between saint raphaël and Agay! swimrun.esterelcotedazur.com

16TH To 18TH MArCH MANdeLieU-LA NApoULe salon du Bien ÊTre, Bio & ThéraPies Nearly 200 exhibitors from the health and well-being world are expected to attend salonbienetremandelieu.com

16TH MArCH To 29TH ApriL MoNACo PrinTemPs des arTs de monTe-carlo A cultural festival offering an array of musical genres from the 11th to 21st century printempsdesarts.com

17TH MArCH sANreMo milano-sanremo World-famous international professional road race: 293 kilometers from Milan to sanremo with an arrival on the Lungomare Calvino beach promenade in the afternoon milanosanremo.it

17TH To 18TH MArCH

17TH To 24TH MArCH

25TH MArCH sAiNT TropeZ golfe de sainT TroPez maraThon A route of nearly 43km through: sainte Maxime, Cogolin, saint Tropez, ramatuelle and Cavalaire-sur-Mer marathondugolfedesainttropez.com

31sT MArCH JUAN-Les-piNs classic à juan directed by Mihhail gerts, pianist philippe bianconi performs Mozart, saint-saëns and schubert at the palais des Congrès orchestre-cannes.com

UNTiL 4TH ApriL sAiNT TropeZ alain PaTrini discover his painted works at the Lavoir Vasserot golfe-saint-tropezinformation.com

4TH To 11TH ApriL CANNes cannes inTernaTional series fesTival An event at the palais des Festivals that aims to highlight series from all over the world and give an international voice to this increasingly popular and fiercely creative new art form canneseries.com


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5TH ApriL

19TH To 22Nd ApriL

CANNes symPhonie du nouveau monde samuel Jean directs cellist sonia Wieder-Atherton as she performs penard and dvorak at the Théâtre Croisette orchestre-cannes.com

MoNACo ToP marques A unique gathering of the world’s most expensive and outlandish vehicles, with a focus on haute couture jewellery and watches topmarquesmonaco.com

6TH To 8TH ApriL

19TH To 23rd ApriL

27TH To 29TH ApriL

MANdeLieU-LA NApoULe salon des vins des vignerons indéPendanTs Meet independent growers and wine producers from across the country mandelieu.fr

MANdeLieU LA NApoULe nouvelles vagues de nauTisme 28th second-hand boat show cotedazur-tourisme.com

9TH To 12TH ApriL

CANNes red Bull air race it’s the first time that red bull has brought this incredible air show to the south of France airrace.redbull.com

CANNes Polar cannes inTernaTional TriaThlon An exceptional city centre sporting event with a packed programme: 2km swim, 107km bike ride, 16km run cannes-internationaltriathlon.com

CANNes miPTv The global TV and digital content market for all genres and all screens miptv.com

10TH ApriL CANNes auTour du hauTBois eT du cor anglais The orchestre de Cannes honours the oboe and the english horn at the Théâtre Alexandre iii orchestre-cannes.com

20TH To 22Nd ApriL

21sT ApriL To 8TH MAY ANTibes salon anTiBes arT fair Antiques and modern art on the pré des pêcheurs salon-antiquairesantibes.com

21sT ApriL To 6TH MAY

14TH To 15TH ApriL MANdeLieU-LA NApoULe Trail des Balcons d'azur Mandelieu-La Napoule and the estérel mountains are the background for this awesome trail running challenge. traildazur.com

geNoA euro flora An international flower and ornamental plant show that only takes place once every five years… This time in the parchi di Nervi euroflora2018.it

25TH ApriL 14TH To 22Nd ApriL MoNACo monTe-carlo rolex masTers Unless you’re a tennis master, this event is more for spectating than participating. expect some of tennis’ greatest current stars to take to the court! montecarlotennismasters.com

geNoA BoB dylan The musical legend is in concert at the rds stadium from 9pm bobdylan.com

26TH To 29TH ApriL MoNACo aBsTracT/life The ballets de Monte-Carlo perform Jean-Christophe Maillot’s Abstract/Life alongside a performance by violinist george balanchine balletsdemontecarlo.com

26TH ApriL To 1sT MAY MANdeLieU-LA NApoULe salon du couPé, caBrioleT eT du suv The fourth edition of a diverse car show that last year attracted 25,000 visitors mandelieu.fr

28TH ApriL To 1sT MAY diANo MAriNA aromaTica A bi-annual event celebrating basil and other herbs and aromatic plants of Liguria with a market, conferences, cooking demonstrations and much more – it takes over the whole town between 9am and 11pm!

7TH To 13TH MAY CAgNes-sUr-Mer oPen de cagnes French and international female tennis stars battle it out beneath the spring sun opendecagnes.com

8TH To 19TH MAY CANNes cannes film fesTival Walk the red carpet alongside the world’s greatest film stars, producers and directors festival-cannes.com

10TH To 13TH MAY grAsse exPo rose The city honours rose growers and the flower, transforming into a veritable garden of over 45,000 roses ville-grasse.fr

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11TH To 13TH MAY MoNACo grand Prix de monaco hisTorique A glorious biannual event featuring some of the finest vintage motorcars acm.mc

24TH To 27TH MAY MoNACo monaco formula 1 grand Prix The ultimate event for motorheads formula1.com

30TH MAY To 3rd JUNe ANTibes les voiles d’anTiBes The first regatta on the panerai Classic Yachts Challenge calendar, this event offers an incredible sailing experience for crew and spectators from port Vauban, the Cap d'Antibes and Juan-les-pins voilesdantibes.com

2Nd To 3rd JUNe MoUgiNs les eToiles de mougins A world renowned food festival uniting chefs from around the world... Many of the cooking demonstrations and workshops are free lesetoilesdemougins.com

5TH To 8TH JUNe CANNes midem Music industry giants attend conferences, competitions and networking events - there are plenty of fringe events to get involved in midem.com

18TH To 22Nd JUNe CANNes cannes lions fesTival Championing creativity since 1954, Cannes Lions hosts the world’s leading creative thinkers and award ceremony for ground-breaking individuals and companies canneslions.com

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RIVIERA PRESS

welcomes

in 2018

To mark the New Year and thank our loyal partners and readers for their continued support as we enter 2018, riviera Press held our first soirée of the year at the Marriott aC Hotel Nice in January. Beneath Sosno’s 28-metre high bronze and granite sculpture – one of two voluptuous figures that adorn the four-star hotel’s exterior – guests were invited to discover two of aston Martin’s emblematic models: the DB11 and v12 vintage S. it was quite the entrance! inside, guests mingled and caught up with our team over a glass of Domaine rabiega wine, Blue Coast Brewing Company beer, award-winning are Water or luxurious sample from Cannes’ Comptoir du Caviar. Whatever their preference, the conversation flowed in every corner of the room! We would like to extend our best wishes for the rest of the year and to thank the hotel’s commercial director, Daniela Simone, for being such a wonderful host at an excellent location. RIVIERA PRESS wILL BE HOSTING OUR NEXT EVENT AT THE MAS CANDILLE IN MOUGINS ON 17TH APRIL. IF YOU’D LIkE TO JOIN US, PLEASE SEND US AN EMAIL TO: RIVIERAINSIDER@RIVIERA-PRESS.FR.

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(1) event partner Aston Martin and the emblematic models of the db11 and V12 (2) The team from the blue Coast brewing Company (3) bernard Van de kerckhove, editor-in-chief of palaces, and friend (4) Audrey Le gall of engel & Völkers and friend (5) Lauren and philip Weiser of the Carlton international real estate agency (6) bjarni breidfjord of Luxoria design and friend (7) Chloé peres and Nicolas Hesse, the director of the salon international de l’Automobile de Monaco (8) The Aston Martin team from the Le Cannet branch (9) beatrix eikel and Joachim Halberstadt of Four seasons properties (10) olivia edwards of Alpine renaul with friend (11) Legal specialist Michaela schreyer (12) katia Limoge Walicki of My school Montessori (13) readers pia parolin (l) and Marie-Theres Michel (14) bradley Mitton of Club Vivanova with graphic designer Vivi Anderson (15) simona ruggia (l) and stefanie brandt of Cefoliac (16) Corinne Le gall of Maison de beauté Carità with her husband (17) iuliia kruk, a benjamin kergueno Associate, with philippe soete of Nice Airport (18) Marc Marin of Your smart Home design and friend march / aPril 2018


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Your feedback and opinion is highly appreciated grateful if you by our team and could take the we would be time to comp participate, you lete this Reade can either fill rs’ Survey. To out the form below (Riviera Press, and send it to Immeuble Thalès Riviera Insider A, 2000 Route our website and des Lucioles, 06410 head to the Reade Biot) or visit rs’ Survey sectio To thank you for n*. your time and support, all partic contact inform ipants who provid ation will be entere e complete d into a draw for star Hôtel Majes a weekend’s stay tic in Cannes in the fiveas well as dinne restaurant on r for two in the Côte d’Azu an exquisite r. The closing date is Friday 16th March 2018.

2018 readers survey

2018

s the only independent english-language print publication for the region, we want to know how we can improve our service, and find out what you think of our magazine and how you read it. What would you like to read more of? Are you a regular print reader or did you discover us on Facebook? do you pay for online news? Your opinion and feedback is highly appreciated by our team and we would be very grateful if you could take the time to complete our 2018 readers survey, which you can find on our website. To thank you for your time and support, all participants who provide complete contact information will be entered into a draw for a weekend’s stay at the Hôtel Majestic in Cannes complete with a dinner for two at an exquisite restaurant on the Côte d’Azur. The deadline is Friday 16th March 2018! www.riviera-press.fr/insider

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anzac day Antibes honours the fallen By ELSA CARPENTER

The Gallipoli Campaign of 1915 was one of the bloodiest events of World War i. For the young states of australia and New Zealand, it was their first engagement in any major overseas conflict and a tragedy: over 11,000 lost their lives. Yet amid the trauma and terrible loss of life, the battle helped bring about the birth of a national consciousness and sense of pride that still reverberates more than a century later. n the early hours of 25th April 1915, the first waves of the Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) landed on beaches midway up the gallipoli peninsular. over the next eight months, more than 11,000 of these men were killed and nearly 25,000 were injured. The british, French, indian and Newfoundland forces, as well as those of the ottoman empire, suffered awful losses, but the gallipoli Campaign was particularly devastating for the nations of Australia and New Zealand. Not only were thousands of young soldiers dead, but the first foray of the fledgling

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states into international warfare had been a disaster. gallipoli had a deep effect on the population at home. There was sadness and no doubt anger, but the battle also gave rise to a national consciousness and sense of identity. Having been dominions of the british empire for 13 and seven years respectively when war broke out in 1914, Australia and New Zealand were now, in their own name, bravely playing a part on the world stage. A year after the conflict, the first ANZAC day commemorations were held on 25th April 1916. in 2012, royal Australian Navy veteran steve Wright was working as a chief engineering officer on board a yacht in the port of Antibes. Unable to be in Australia for the memorial, he decided to travel to bullecourt in Northern France to attend its ANZAC ceremony. during the battle of Arras in spring 1917, bullecourt to the south of the city was the site of another tragedy for the Australian nation: up to 10,000 soldiers were killed or wounded, many among them survivors of gallipoli two years earlier. “despite terrible windy, wet winter conditions, there was an incredibly moving turnout not only of Antipodeans from far and wide, but also from the locals and many elderly who came to pay their respects to our honoured (French, Australian and New Zealander) dead,” says steve, who, following the ceremony, headed into the town with newfound english, irish and American friends. “The suggestion to organise ANZAC services in Antibes came about over some beers. ANZAC day is not just about Australia and New Zealand, but for Aussies and kiwis, it is the one day of the year where we remember our nations’ heritage, the legacy of our forebears, where we come from, why we are different from other nations, and the reason why we are damn good at what we do when we put our minds to task.” The dawn service, which will be held at 5.30am on Wednesday 25th April at the foot of the poilu statue (the in-


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PUBLIC CEREMONIES Wednesday 25th april Dawn service at 5.30am Main Service at 11am Beneath the Poilu statue at the Fort Carré www.anzac-antibes.com

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formal term for a French WWi infantryman) of the Fort Carré, is a traditionally intimate affair. “it is a time to think and reflect,” says shelley Ward, a british expat who has lived in saint paul de Vence for the last 30 years and has been a part of the team of volunteers who have organised the annual ANZAC day in Antibes since 2013. “it is a very special moment as we watch the sunrise over the Mediterranean. We have had tremendous support from the mairie of Antibes, with a team getting up at 4am to help us prepare for the dawn service. ANZAC day is now an official date on the city’s calendar, which shows a great deal of respect for something that wasn’t started by a local French group.” if ANZAC day pays testament to the mateship and bonding demonstrated by the Australian and New Zealander personnel, this certainly shines through in the involvement of local French veterans’ associations and dignita-

photo 1 THE EVENT IS WELLATTENDED BY OFFICIALS AND REPRESENTATIVES FOR THE Uk, IRELAND, FRANCE, AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND © Michel tolosano photo 2 ONE OF THE GREATEST WAR POEMS WAS WRITTEN ON A CLIFFTOP IN CORNWALL © Shelley Ward photo 3 MISTRESS OF CEREMONIES SHELLEY WARD WITH kIERAN AND WILLIAM HANSEN © Michel tolosano photo 4 STEVE WRIGHT AND jEAN PASCAL DEY LAY A WREATH © Michel tolosano

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ries from across the south of France. in 2017, these included: Lieutenant Colonel gerald Lacoste, representing the Mayor’s office of Antibes Juan-les-pins; Christian giampetri, the president of the Anciens Combattants association; daniel ratoret, the regional president of Combattants Volontaires; and Jean pascal dey, the president of the Fédération Nationale des Anciens des Missions extérieures for the Alpes-Maritimes and also a representative for the United Nations’ soldiers of peace international Association. other key participants include: event founder steve Wright in his role of representative for Australian peacekeeping and the peacemaker Veterans Association; royal british Legion representative and Commander of the royal Navy simon Jackson; and New Zealand defence Forces representative Lance Corporal Cameron Hansen. The Main service also takes place at the Fort Carré, but at 11am, and is well-attended – an estimated 150 people participated last year compared to 30 during the first edition. “i’m always impressed by the willingness of young people of join in,” continues shelley, who acts as Mistress of Ceremonies. “i was extremely touched during last year’s ceremony when two little boys – kieran and William Hansen – joined me on stage wearing their grandfather’s medals and delivered a speech that questioned war and its reasons… To hear something like that out of the ‘mouths of babes’ was very poignant. This year coming, we’ll be joined at the ceremony by a class of schoolchildren from New Zealand, who are visiting Nice on an exchange!” The order of service is formal and according to the elements set out by the first ANZAC day commemorations in 1916. in addition to poems and letters read aloud by family members of soldiers who fought in military operations during and after WWi, there’s a wreath-laying ceremony by officials and members of the public, and one minute of silence is observed. Those attending often wear a sprig of rosemary, which was growing wild on the gallipoli headland, and enjoy ANZAC biscuits made of oats and syrup, a souvenir recipe of those sent to the front by family members back in the homeland. “The ode – Laurence binyon’s 1914 For the Fallen – is read by our treasurer simon Jackson,” says shelley, who recently discovered that the poem was written by its author on a clifftop in Cornwall she visited every summer as a child. “Then steve plays The Last post on the trumpet.” The flags are raised to The rouse and the five national anthems of France, Australia, Uk, ireland and New Zealand are sung ahead of a closing speech and a bagpipe rendition of The Water is Wide. “The strength of national identity that comes through during the ceremony is admirable, even enviable,” says shelley, who recently returned from a visit to the Australian embassy in paris with her fellow volunteers. “There is an immense feeling of goodwill among all who attend, which highlights the positives that came out of gallipoli – the good that was born out of the bad. The legacy of characteristics such as courage, endurance, mateship and good humour are very much in the national fibres of Australia and New Zealand.”  march / aPril 2018


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Publishing Director sebAsTieN FrAisse s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr Managing Director biCH LeCoUrT b.lecourt@riviera-press.fr Editor-in-chief peTrA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr Editor eLsA CArpeNTer e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr Contributors Aila stöckmann, Lewis Longman, Claire Lathbury, sarah Hyde & raimund Theobald Creative Director ViNCeNT ArTUs vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr Advertising & pr FrANCoise MULLer Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 29 f.muller@riviera-press.fr

exPaT focus: Paul oatway

 FoLLoWiNg pAUL oATWAY’s AssisTANCe AT oUr reCeNT soirée eVeNT iN NiCe, riVierA iNsider CAUgHT Up WiTH THe pHoTogrApHer To FiNd oUT More AboUT His soUrCes oF iNspirATioN As WeLL As His dreAM sUbJeCTs iN THe soUTH oF FrANCe ANd MoNACo.

hat first brought you to the french riviera? in 2007, ryan Air had return flights from dublin for €20 so i started flying down for long weekends. i could depart dublin at 7am and be on the beach or in a restaurant by midday. How lovely to get away from grey ireland and be in the sunshine!

w

how would you describe your photographic work and style? people. Most of my photography is of people, from corporate portraits march / aPril 2018

and family groups to media events. My photographic training was in fashion and beauty, but the demand for that here is not great, so i have adapted happily to shooting events, yachts and property photography. living in such a beautiful place, inspiration must be aplenty… Living in Cannes makes it possible for me to turn either west for spain or east for italy. i get to shoot in Monaco for corporate events, italy for wine producers and the huge

mobile world congress in barcelona. i get great inspiration from all of these places and the wonderful people i meet. The south of france is full of fascinating people – celebrity and otherwise. if you could photo any current or former residents of the côte d’azur, who would they be and why? gosh, that's a tricky one. Yes, there are some amazing characters down here. one person i would very much like to meet is June Newton (pseudonym Alice springs), the wife of the great, late photographer Helmut Newton. she lives in Monaco and i bet she has a few stories to tell! do you have any upcoming events/exhibitions? because of the amazing 'characters' on the streets, i have started a photo project entitled CANNeTAsTiC. it's simply street photography capturing people: ladies and their dogs, men and their cars, etc. i’m looking for a place at the moment to have an exhibition in Cannes and also sponsorship. when you’re not at work, where do you like to spend your time in the region? i love road trips so for me jumping on my Triumph, taking the coast road and heading into italy is perfect relaxation. Vivi (of ouiCannes design) and i adore sunday lunch anywhere so finding somewhere new is always an adventure. oatwayphoto.carbonmade.com

Advertising & pr pATriCe sAiNT-Leger Tel: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 p.saintleger@riviera-press.fr distribution doMiNiQUe FreULoN Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 d.freulon@riviera-press.fr Secretary CAroLe HeberT contact@riviera-press.fr Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. Articles do not represent the opinion of the editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct contents of ads. © 2018 - by riviera press s.a.r.l.

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Les Algorithmes immeuble «Thales A» 2000 route des Lucioles 06410 biot-sophia-Antipolis info@riviera-press.fr www.riviera-press.fr/insider riviera press s.a.r.l. au capital de € 10 000 r.C.s. Antibes 812 415 552 sireT 812 415 552 000 15 N° issN 2495-9839 dépôt Légal à parution printed by: rotimpress, C/pla de l'estany s/N, poligon, Casa Nova, e-17181 riviera insider is printed on recycled paper




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