Riviera Insider - November/ December 2016 by Riviera Press

HERITAGE Presenting Grasse

INSURANCE Driving on the right side of the law

GOLF Teeing off on the Côte d’Azur

GOURMET Festivals, fêtes & festivities

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# 169 novemBer / DecemBer 2016 4,90 € The

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EDITORIAL By PETRA HALL

Don’t worry, riviera Insider will always remain true to its foundation as an informative magazine for the region, but that’s not say that we can’t also incorporate topics such as fashion, jewellery, watches and style into our pages! For some time now, our team has been discussing whether or not this is something our readers want. The question of ‘What really is luxury?’ is one that divides opinion. For some of us, it is the exclusive material goods that can only be attained by the happy few. For others - and I count myself in this category - the definition is much broader. In first place is love. staying true to yourself is on the list as are real friends and the freedom to indulge in personal interests. but luxury can also be when beauty and sensuality meet with awareness and deeper meaning.

you can discover this for yourself on pages 66 and 67 where we report on two women of very different origins whose shared passion for the rare and extraordinary has led to the achievement of a long-held dream. Whatever luxury means to you, the main thing is that it brings you happiness. We’ll speak again next year, but until then, the riviera Insider team wishes you many luxurious moments over the festive season.

THE TEAM

ELsA CArPEnTEr

VInCEnT ArTus

KArInE bALAGny

AuréLIE ALLAMAnDI

JAMEs rOLLAnD

CArOLE HébErT

DOMInIQuE FrEuLOn

MICHEL GOMIZ

nearly 25 years ago, Petra Hall (Riviera Insider’s editor-in-chief) founded the newspaper riviera Côte d’Azur Zeitung in German, which was followed by The riviera Times in 2003. These titles have now blossomed under the names riviera Insider and rivieraZeit into attractive, contemporary magazines. The goal from the beginning was to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights from the Mediterranean written by professional mother-tongue journalists. Petra Hall has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape.

Carole Hébert (secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly.

Elsa Carpenter (editor of Riviera Insider) joined the team this spring with fresh ideas and a modern vision for the magazine. Having worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years - some of you may recognise her name - she is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers.

Dominique Freulon (communication & PR), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. she is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature.

James Rolland (Managing Director) is an experienced entrepreneur with an extensive career background in the us and France. The Parisian is excited to be joining riviera Press and become acquainted with our unique leadership. James is a passionate musician and amateur chef.

Aurélie Allamandi (Communication & PR), is fresh from her studies in marketing and communication. born in nice, she is keen to put her knowledge into practice, get to know our readers and development the futures of our magazines.

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer.

Karine Balagny (marketing) loves the international flair of the company. After several years of living in the usA, and thanks to her experience in sales and events, the native of normandy has found her dream position in our multi-cultural publishing house.

Michel Gomiz (communication & PR) lives for his profession. For 23 years he has been working as a media consultant for fashion, jewellery and other luxury items between the Côte d’Azur and Paris. One of his hidden talents is playing the drums.

Over the past 140 years we have learned that behind every success story is a unique narrative. Our role is to listen to your stories, interpret them, apply financial expertise and guide you towards your desired outcomes. If your goal is to create enduring wealth, why not start by sharing your story with us?

www.cfm-indosuez.mc

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Issue #169 sEE MOrE, DO MOrE, KnOW MOrE

conTenTs

The Hotlist Top news & trends

10 Heritage

Cover photo Louis Vuitton MaLLetier © Thomas Lohr

Presenting Grasse

10 years of the Prince Albert II Foundation

16 Jérôme Viaud: Grasse’s young and dynamic mayor

20 From flower to flacon: Les Fontaines Parfumées

22 Photo Hind rafiq Hariri: obsessed by a passion to create syMboLic jeweLLery - read More on paGe 66

Success Story

A natural step: an interview with Louis Vuitton and Dior’s master perfumers

Golf riviera Insider’s golf correspondent explores the Opio-Valbonne course

56 Monaco Quo vadis, Monaco?

26 Monaco yacht show in 2016

30 Insurance Driving on the right side of the law: the rules of insuring an imported vehicle

Gourmet Fernando Pensato: from Provence to Puglia and back again

58 La Langouste: nice’s hotly tipped new restaurant

61 upcoming food festivals in the region

38 Style Real Estate Winter wonderlands

44 Eileen Gray’s E-1027

46 Property industry experiences a boom in the Alpes Maritimes

48 Culture Designing dreams: a celebration of Léon bakst

HrH: dreams of golden threads

66 The latest fashion and jewellery collections from across the Côte d’Azur

68 Events see more, do more, known more this november & December

50 Les ballets de Monte Carlo: sleeping beauty

51 Lifestyle beat the winter blues

Nice Memorial ceremony following bastille Day attack

78 Promenade des Anglais security to be increased

79 Expat Focus sarah Hyde: meet riviera Insider’s art and culture writer

OUR WORLD REVOLVES AROUND YOU WELCOME TO OUR BUSINESS CLASS, WHERE YOUR COMFORT IS OUR PRIORITY. Our new business cabins have been designed to ensure comfort and well-being throughout your flight. The French art of hospitality was our inspiration. From now on your Air France seat serves as an office, restaurant, entertainment lounge and bedroom. You decide how to use the cabin to meet your needs. The attentive staff will be there to relax and pamper you with a warm welcome, quality service and little details throughout your flight.

Award winning chefs in flight France is about gastronomy and fine wines. Our rotating team of the finest French chefs will keep you delighted with great classics from every region of France and a wide variety of wine and Champagne.

Your business seat transforms into a full bed to ensure a good nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rest. Zen Air France lounges The spirit of Air France extends to our lounges, The surrounding space is uniquely designed to keep your personal effects close at where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll receive a warm welcome in a calming hand while providing privacy and direct aisle access. A variety of custom enatmosphere. Per use a wide variety of international tertainment programming is updated monthly on 16-inch HD touchscreens. publications and enjoy a snack while you wait. For those departing from Paris, relaxing Clarins spa treatments await. SkyPriority, enjoy priority at the airport Direct access ensuring priority at every step of your journey: Priority check-in, boarding, departure and luggage access. Rendez-vous in Paris Before you set out again on one of a thousand possible destinations with our SkyTeam partners, why not make the most of your stopover in Paris? Monuments, museums and gardens. All of France is here for your enjoyment!

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Monochrome glamour studio Harcourt at tHe HoteL de paris

The studio Harcourt, a prestigious house of photography established during the Parisian 1930s, is collaborating with Monaco hospitality giant sbM (société des bains de Mer) to offer its legendary photographic experience within the walls of the principality’s esteemed Hôtel de Paris. Having photographed the faces of the great figures of the 20th and 21st centuries - including Prince rainier III of Monaco and

Princess Grace - studio Harcourt is famed for its unique works. There are two special options available until 21st January 2017. The une nuit, une photo offer includes a night’s stay at the Hôtel de Paris with breakfast, a couple’s shoot with a photographer, hairstylist and make-up artist, and a champagne reception with canapés in the studio’s signature black and white theme for 3,450€ (excluding peak events). Muses could also opt for the über luxe package that offers a 20-photo album with a three nights’ stay, champagne and canapé welcome, and a half-day professional shoot for 22,435€. between 22nd and 31st January 2017, studio Harcourt will also be hosting sessions for couples, families and solo models. A solo photograph shoot costs 1,680€, a duo’s 1,920€ and for families 3,000€. 

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Monte Carlo Jazz Festival internationaL acts at tHe saLLe Garnier

Jazz lovers won’t want to miss out on the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival. under the high patronage of Prince Albert II, a programme of the finest international jazz artists has been lined up for this year’s event, which is taking place at the magnificent salle Garnier of the Casino de Monte© Petra Richterova Carlo from 24th november to 3rd December. Manu Katché, richard bona, Ibrahim Maalouf, Al Jarreau and the nDr bigband, and Wayne shorter with his quartet are just some of the headline acts due to appear on the historic stage. As always, the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival is an opportunity to discover great, up-and-coming jazz artists with performances from trumpeter Airelle besson, sarah Lancman, the Malia/André Manoukian duo, and the Alune Wade and Harold López-nussa quartet around their Havana-Paris-Dakar project. A special evening will be dedicated to robert Charlebois who will be celebrating 50 years of song at the Opéra Garnier Monte Carlo. Madeleine Peyroux will also be sharing the billing with a presentation of her new album secular Hymns. As the festival is celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2016, the festival is spreading into the casino and other société des bains de Mer establishments with the Funk Off fanfare, Mike sanchez and many other exciting performances. 

European music in the 17th & 18th centuries The magnificent Ensemble baroque de nice is entering a new, musical season; this time under the title Airs de Famille. During the baroque era, artists’ rights had not yet been protected - each inspired the works of the other and plagiarism was not yet something scorned. For 2016/17, nice’s Ensemble baroque has traced how musical themes and trends circulated in Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries. The programme includes artists such as Vivaldi, who worked extensively in Amsterdam, Handel, who lived temporarily in Italy and ended his career in London, and Johann sebastian bach. From the Chapelle du saint-suaire in the city, the 400th birthday of perhaps history’s most famous writer shakespeare with shakespeare et la musique on 18th november at 8.30 pm and 20th november at 4.30 pm. In December, the last concerts of the year (9th and 11th December at 8.30pm and 4.30 pm respectively in the Chapelle du saint-suaire) follow with Corelli's sonata da Chiesa op.V. ensemblebaroquedenice.com 

tHe enseMbLe baroque de nice

A world of sound & song riviera Insider has three exciting prizes up for grabs thanks to our very talented friends at the Orchestre régional de Cannes, which will enchant any who love the immortal sounds of piano and percussion. First up, we have two sets of front row tickets (for two) worth 60€ each for the David Kadouch concert on 27th november. Kadouch is an impassioned, young French pianist who began his musical days at the Conservatoire de nice before heading to Paris’ esteemed Conservatoire national supérieur de Musique. At the tender age of 13, Kadouch was playing at new york’s Met Opera and the following year, he played Carnegie Hall. For this concert (4.30pm at the Théâtre Croisette), Kadouch will play Piano Concerto no.1 and Totentanz by Liszt. Quentin Hindley, will also lead his musicians in beethoven’s symphony no.2, which was written while the composer struggled with depression and suicidal thoughts, but remains one of his most cheerful and spirited. Our second prize is three lots of tickets for two worth 60€ each for the sympho new Percussions concert on 18th December at 4.30pm in the Théâtre Debussy in Cannes’ Palais des Festivals. It is a bespoke concert that aims to open the eyes of spectators to the often misunderstood and lesser respected art of percussion. Expect instruments of all shapes, sizes and sounds! And to provide the background to your festive season, we are also giving away the latest recordings of the orchestra - Mozart on the beach, Lanner and Auber - in CD format. Head to the competitions section of our website to find out how to get your name in the hat! 

orcHestre réGionaL de cannes

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Carbon neutral status nice Leads france’s airports to a Greener future

nice Côte d’Azur Aéroport has become France’s first and the world’s 25th airport to achieve a carbon neutral status and the Level 3+ Carbon Accreditation two years ahead of its goal. since 2011, the Aéroports de la Côte d’Azur group - comprised of the main nice airport and the Cannes Mandelieu and Golfe de saint Tropez airports - has been taking steps towards reducing CO2 emissions and their carbon footprint as well as implementing a number of energy efficient strategies. Leading the way has been nice’s two-terminal airport, which has made an impressive switch to 100% renewable energy in recent years. It has also cut its kilograms of CO2 per passenger by 75%, a success made possible thanks to a partnership with Electricité de France (EDF) and the signature of a contract for the purchase of 100% French hydroelectric power. While the Cannes Mandelieu and Golfe de saint Tropez airports have both achieved a commendable Level 3 accreditation for their dedication to the stringent Airport Carbon Accreditation scheme (an independent programme developed by ACI EurOPE and ACI WOrLD), nice has received the platinum 3+ award. According to the scheme: “Level 3+ means that the airport management has committed, after several years of reducing its emissions, to continue those efforts and offset any residual emissions to allow all operations under the airport's control to become carbon neutral.” CEO of Aéroports de la Côte d’Azur Dominique Thillaud said of the news, "Our group is committed to making the necessary reductions in the carbon emissions of its day-to-day activities. We are proud to declare that nice is the first airport in France to have been able to cut its emissions and offset the remainder, whilst at the same time increasing its capacity to cope with a rise in passenger numbers. becoming carbon neutral two years ahead of target is a mark of the strong commitment that can be seen across the ACA Group, including Cannes Mandelieu and Golfe de saint Tropez airports. In 2016, we therefore find ourselves excellently positioned to achieve the targets we set ourselves following COP21, whilst joining the other major European airports who have already achieved Level 3+ in their success". 

Underwater works begin Monaco’s Land recLaMation project

Land reclamation has long been a hot topic in Monaco, but after a decade of plans and negotiations, the latest extension has finally begun. underwater research and studies into the effect the proposed 60,000 m² could have on Monaco’s delicate marine life have officially been launched and a provisional deadline of 2025 has been set for the final competition of all construction. Mathieu Carré from bouygues Construction, the corporation that owns s.A.M. Anse du Portier/ bouygues Travaux Publics (itself the Monaco-based subsidiary charged with the completion of the project), told riviera Insider, “We have entered the preparation phrase and will be taking measures to protect the marine environment. Construction works will begin at a later date and will be managed almost entirely at sea.” The offshore ‘urban extension’ plans will add six hectares to Monaco’s current 2km². The vast majority of the space will become living accommodation, but within the eco-district there will also be public facilities, an extension of the Grimaldi Forum event and exhibition space, a public car park, a small marina, a landscaped park and a seafront promenade. The maritime infrastructure works alone are estimated to cost one billion euros. 

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Riviera Insider teams up with Fitlane win an annuaL subscription wortH 725€

riviera Insider has teamed up with Côte d’Azur sport and fitness giant Fitlane to offer a lucky few of our subscribers the chance to win a free, annual pass to all centres in the French riviera. Worth 725€, the yearly subscription provides users with unlimited access to all Fitlane clubs seven days’ a week. Cardiotraining and muscle-building facilities are also included, as are over 900 different classes from spinning to zumba, body Combat and body Pump. Pass holders are also welcome to use the sauna and hammam areas, try their hand at squash, get expert assistance and advice in the Coaching Zone, and benefit from a range of Fitlane partnerships with companies including the nike store (15% discount), yves rocher and osteopaths in the region. Fitlane currently has more than 20 fitness centres across the region, with new sites opening all the time such as the recently launched Mougins address. Visit the competitions section of our website for your chance to win. All entrants must be a riviera Insider subscriber. riviera-press.fr/insider 

The hoTlisT

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Monaco Gourmand Club Vivanova founder bradley MitsiGnature ton has come together with author disHes of tHe of Living in Monaco Zsolt szeprincipaLity merszky to start the Monaco Gourmand project. The dynamic duo will of Monaco imminently be publishing a unique witH wine guide to the culinary heritage of the pairinG Guide principality - signature Dishes of the Principality of Monaco with Wine Pairing Guide - which features 10 of the nation’s finest restaurants as well as recipes from the institutions’ head chefs. As such, the book is set to offer a rare insight into the gastronomic pleasures of this world-class setting. Premium wine expert bradley is perhaps most well-known in the region for his popular Club Vivanova events, but he also has an extremely well-established career sourcing fine wines from around the world. “I am delighted to be part of such a historical and cutting-edge publication where the Principality of Monaco is showcased by the chefs and sommeliers who dedicate and commit themselves to gastronomical excellence,” said bradley of the Monaco Gourmand project. “We have carefully selected 10 of the finest restaurants of Monaco and have reached out to their executive chefs - who together have over 50 Michelin stars - asking them to share a recipe of one of their signature dishes. This offers a special experience to our readers, allowing them to recreate these signature dishes.” using his own expertise of the wine industry, bradley has also hosted exclusive interviews with Monaco’s leading sommeliers to provide wine pairing for each of the featured recipes. The book is due to be published in november and launched in Monaco on 14th December 2016: monaco-gourmand.com. 

Beauty in wine cHâteau roubine LauncHes wine-based cosMetics Line

saint Tropez native and the owner of Château roubine Valérie rousselle knew she was on to something when she purchased the exceptional estate in 1994. but after many years of producing world-class rosés and a great number of award-winning wines, she began to wonder whether there was something special in her soil and vines. Inspired by a thalassotherapy experience in Deauville, Valérie started looking at the health benefits of many of the ancestral products of Provence. If olive oil, lavender, honey and garrigue are the basis of many a beauty trend… Why not wine? With the help of close friend Cécile Destaing, a pharmaceutical doctor based in Grasse, Valérie’s dream of creating a beauty and wellbeing collection was born: sens en Provence. The range includes day and night creams, exfoliators for the face and body, youth-reviving serums and a shower gel. 

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Mission Promenade unesco caMpaiGn for tHe proMenade des anGLais

The city of nice is campaigning to have its famous Promenade des Anglais enshrined on the unEsCO World Heritage list. It is a project that has been in motion since summer 2014, but following the horrific attacks that took place on the Promenade in July, it appears to have picked up new momentum with the launch of a new website: missionpromenade.fr. The site allows visitors to embark on an interactive, virtual tour of the Promenade’s greatest sites and monuments. Photographer Olivier Monge was central to this part of the project and photographed every section between the airport and rauba Capèu in a bid to capture the uniqueness and legacy of the unique site. Head to the Panorma area of the site and explore the city front by sliding across left or right. Dark blue magnifying points allow visitors to see additional photographs from the 18th to 21st century while the lighter blue markers provide historical and educational information. The site and the team running the application project are also asking residents and those with a connection to the Promenade des Anglais to get involved and bring any personal or historical documents they have to the offices on 75 Quai des Etats-unis to have digital copies to be taken. These documents in turn will be integrated into the Panorama to allow others to share in their stories. Those interesting in getting behind nice’s application can also pledge their support online under the support the Application tab. missionpromenade.fr 

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PresenTing grasse Grasse is renowned worldwide for perfecting the art of haute perfumery, but there are many other chapters in the book of this ancient city. Let us start at the beginning as Riviera Insider lifts the cover on its story with a private tour by Laurent Pouppeville.

By ELSA CARPENTER

hile the first authenticated mention of the city that became Grasse wouldn’t appear until the 11th century - a Middle Age text describes an agglomeration around a hill called Le Puy - its history can be traced back to the roman era. The ancient Latin term podium grassum would come to denominate the city that is now home to 52,000 people: podium being the root of Le Puy or ‘hill’ and grassum, which later became grand through the medieval language of the area. Grasse & Le puy seated on a volcanic hill - although not actually a volcano as some books may have you believe Grasse was a small, agricultural village that first began to grow thanks to its commercial exchanges with Genoa and Pisa in the early 12th century.

In 1155, Grasse evolved into an independent city free from feudal ownership and from 1227, it fell under the authority of the Count of Provence. During this period, all activity was centred around Le Puy, which was enclosed by defensive walls (you can still find traces of its importance to the city in the names of squares and streets: La Place du Grand Puy and La Place du Petit Puy). A small settlement sprang up on the northern side of Le Puy around what it today Place Etienne roustan in the 12th century and another urban nucleus was built around the Chapelle de l’Oratoire (formerly a priory belonging to the powerful Abbaye de Lérins). A tower was erected straight from the earth at the summit of the hill in the late 12th or early 13th century, built using native tuff rock as both its base and building materials. It would have been one of the defensive strategies of the emerging ville - from the

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top, you can see all the way to the Mediterranean sea - along with the stone walls that already encircled the hill. Today the tower houses the mayoral offices and the public is able to explore its five floors during the Journées du Patrimoine held each year. Over the next 100 years, increasing trade networks allowed the town to flourish and the episcopal seat of Antibes was transferred to Grasse by a papal decree issued by Innocent 4th. The neighbouring cathedral - notre Dame du Puy was built soon after the tower, although no documents have survived from the time that can give us a precise date of its construction. This time however, rather than using the igneous, volcanic rock of the area, the cathedral was built using the white, chalk stone of La Turbie. Gothic, but simple when compared to other great religious monuments built around the same time, the cathedral was strongly

In 1155, GrAssE EVOLVED InTO An InDEPEnDEnT CITy FrEE FrOM FEuDAL OWnErsHIP AnD FrOM 1227, IT FELL unDEr THE AuTHOrITy OF THE COunT OF PrOVEnCE.

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influenced by the Lombardic style and was certainly built to last. supported by 12 enormous pillars and with walls 1.7 metres thick, it would seem that function was prized over form. If it is perhaps difficult to admire notre Dame du Puy for its beauty, there is no such trouble when it comes to commending its solidity and strength. The cathedral has been modified over time to accommodate a chancel and balconies (both in the late 1600s), and a crypt was installed along with the small, gold-gilded chapel to the east of the building on the demands of the saint sacrement brotherhood in the first half of the 18th century. Artistic touches have been added to the interior: three paintings by rubens adorn the walls (The Thorn Coronation, sainte Hélène and The Foundation of the Cross) as does The Washing of the Feet by Jean Honoré Fragonard, who was born in the city in 1732 to a glovemaker and his wife. Our guide Laurent Pouppeville explains that all in all, there has been very little damage to notre Dame du Puy since the final stone was laid save a cannon ball blasting the upper righthand side of the front of the building in 1589. A misguided fire also blemished the pillars during the French revolution when the cathedral was used as an animal fodder storehouse. If that French revolution of 1789 had little effect on the lives of many living in Provençal Grasse, it did fall heavily on the religious groups and establishments. In addition to the confiscation and use of the cathedral as a place to store hay, a number of the convents were also taken by the revolutionaries and later converted into the first perfume factories. the progression of industry The tanning and leather industry is believed to have become the backbone of Grasse’s economy during the 12th century and over the next few hundred years, Grasse quickly outgrew its rampart-protected enclave. The city walls were pushed back and rebuilt for the first of three expansions during the 13th century. Leather came to represent the biggest industry in Grasse, but no place saw this kind of activity more than the Place aux Aires. If you stand in Place aux Aires today, it is the picture of a normal square in Provence. restaurants, bistros, café and shops line its walls and tourists take photographs of its balconies and mossy fountain. but if you take a closer look, there are still many of the authentic features from the tanning era. The archways that now enclose shopfronts would have once been home to the workshops of the tanners; the dip in the road would have been running with the foul smelling waters that washed clean their animal hides. In his novel Perfume - a book that provides an incredibly accurate description of Place aux Aires and Grasse during the 18th century according to our guide - Patrick süskind describes a square ‘divided lengthways by a brook where tanners washed their hides and afterwards spread them out to dry. The odour was so pungent that many a guest lost his

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appetite for his meal… That region of stench. It was unbelievably filthy despite - or perhaps because of all the water that gushed from springs and walls, gurgling down through the town in unchannelled rivulets and brooks, undermining the streets or flooding them with muck.’ The La Foux natural spring, the largest in Grasse and still flowing today, was as much a part of the city’s growing economy as its leather and agriculture. It provided the power to turn mills, the nutrients to fertilise the soil and the water used to create the steam needed in rudimentary perfume production. since the 14th century, shrubs such as myrtle and other nearby natural resources like oak and mastic trees were used to mask the heady smells of leather. Leaves, flowers and wood would be ground up into a powder then mixed with olive oil - also a product made within Grasse - or animal fats then smoothed directly on to the leather. It was by no means a

In 1905, 600 TOnnEs OF FLOWErs WErE HArVEsTED; by 1940, IT WAs 5,000 TOnnEs. AT THE Turn OF THE MILLEnnIuM, JusT 30 TOnnEs WErE bEInG HArVEsTED EACH yEAr.

Grasse invention. In fact, it had likely been first used by the beauty-conscious Ancient Egyptians. Grasse’s leather industry reached a turning point in the 17th century. The glovemakers - large consumers of the leather goods produced - began to look to other avenues of income after taxes on leathers became too high. They ultimately turned to perfumery. birthplace of perfumery Perfumery became a somewhat professional art during the 18th century - the first maître parfumeur is recorded in 1712 - but the methods used were still primitive and dangerous. All industry took place within the town walls and with six to eight machines per dingy workshop - each with fires and copious amounts of burning, hot steam - and dozens upon dozens of workshops active at any one time, the threat of danger was always present. unlike the Egyptian methods of transferring scent to material, enfleurage was something developed and perfected in Grasse around 1750. Flowers of all kinds from the fields around the city had their scents immortalised in vats of animal fats, which were then purified, combined with alcohol and rigorously distilled into essential essences. It allowed even the most delicate and fragile of flowers - orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose - to undergo fragrance extraction. some artisans continued to produce their essences inside the town, such as the fictional workshop on rue de la Louvre owned by Madame Arnulfi in süskind’s tale, but others looked to capitalise on the success of their wares. It was time for expansion. As with the progression of any industry, innovation and change was necessary. by the 19th century, artisanat became industrie and producers began to move out from behind Grasse’s restrictive walls and into more suitable locations surrounding the city. This, in turn, pushed back the agriculture and necessitated changes to the landscape to build irrigation canals. The vineyards and olive groves that had grown on the slopes of Grasse for hundreds - if not thousands - of years were uprooted to make way for the more profitable flower industry. To produce large quantities of the essential essences needed for the prosperous perfume industry, they needed factories and warehouses (initially, the early perfume factories within the city were established in convents abandoned since the French revolution). They need access to a reservoir of water to feed their new machines. step by step, larger production called for a larger workforce, which again increased output. Modernisation was paying off for those who had invested in it. While perfumery became a veritable art form and a profession highly respected by the aristocracy, almost all perfumers of Grasse came from working class backgrounds. True, their wealth and prosperity allowed them to access a different class - many would come to represent the bourgeois - but they undoubtably worked hard for their successes. Today,

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the French language uses the term travail industriel to depict industrial labour, which is what perfume had become, but 19th century Grasse preferred travail industrieux: industrious labour. The great families of the Grasse perfume world aren’t ones that many will recognise. The Fragonards, Molinards and Galimards were the creators of some of the finest perfumes of the époque, but if it wasn’t for those who actually transformed the raw materials - flowers - into their purest olfactory essence, they would have never achieved such acclaim. The collection of producers and innovators of the 19th and 20th century include Chiris (who later moved to north Africa on the back of his successes and established an international production line), Lautier (who voyaged to Lebanon for roses), roure, Tombarel, Hugues, Chariot, Pellissier (a name readers of Patrick süskind’s Perfume will recognise albeit not geographically correct) and bérenger. The names and achievements of these men are written in stone around Grasse, from the terraced houses they built for their workers on the outskirts of the city to their ateliers that have become museums. They built fabulous hotels and monuments, such as the Maison Chiris in 1899, which is now a spectacular location for market trading, and the Château saint Georges, which was also built by the great fabricant. Their families too left their mark: Chiris’ wife has a street dedicated to her memory: rue des Tous Petits. It was there that she founded a nursery for the workers’ children. Other streets tell different stories: in Grasse, a depilated alley is not to be ignored, but to be explored. Our guide encourages us to press our noses up against the open, iron barred window at the northern end of rue du barri just before the passage to rue Jean Ossola. The sweet fragrance of magnolia and hyacinths from an atelier long since deserted await. rue Jean Ossola itself marks the start - or perhaps the end - of another anecdote. This street was once the main road through Grasse; it passes from the western gates of the old walled city, which were dismantled shortly after napoleon’s landing in Golfe Juan on the coast in 1815, to the eastern gates that protected inhabitants from both invaders and disease. not so long ago, it was called the rue Droite. you would be forgiven for taking the modern French translation literally - droit means right, tout droit means straight on or straight ahead - but the name originally stems from Via Derreta, meaning direct. rue Droite has now been broken up into rue Jean Ossola, home to upmarket boutiques and small eateries, and rue Marcel Journet. rue Droite returns only for the final, eastern section. As you walk the streets of inner Grasse, you will come across many grand buildings. Almost all were built using the proceeds of the booming perfume industry. Whether private homes or hôtels particuliers, the properties demonstrate the vast wealth that poured into Grasse thanks to its status as the ‘rome of scents’. Many have been transformed

Discover Grasse On a guided tour The ville de Grasse organises many guided tours of the city and riviera insider would certainly recommend the experience following our wonderful visit with the city’s Laurent Pouppeville. For large groups of up to 50 people, a visit can be made in english, German, Spanish, italian or French for 80€. Tours last around an hour and a half, although bespoke packages for extended periods of time can be requested. each guide has a theme: discovering the history of Grasse on a tour of its streets and great monuments (a visite Découverte); following in the footsteps of Patrick Süskind’s 18th century character JeanBaptiste Grenouille; or an olfactory experience via the gardens and fountains of the city. individual tours take place every second Saturday of the month all year long for 4€ (1€ for those living in Grasse and its suburban areas) and depart from the Oﬃce de Tourisme at 3pm. During school holidays and the peak summer months of July and august, visite Découvertes occur every Monday at 3pm and other themed visits take place on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 3pm. ville-grasse.fr

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into museums dedicated to the legacy of the industry - restored to varying degrees of authenticity. Grasse in the modern age The city’s international renown and the industrial revolution helped establish Grasse as a destination for the European elite and aristocracy during the 20th century. The economy was growing still and thousands of migrants moved in, keen to become a part of the world of perfumery. The luxury maisons of perfume all created perfumes using the raw materials of Grasse and for many, the city was their source of inspiration. In 1905, 600 tonnes of flowers were harvested. by 1940, 5,000 tonnes were being harvested each year. Over the following two decades, Grasse continued to profit, but ultimately it had reached a peak. Globalisation led to many perfume masters seeking their flowers from other (cheaper) locations and many quit the city for more economical destinations. by 1970, many of the great factories and laboratories were deserted and Grasse was forced to come to terms with the fact that while it was the birthplace of perfume, it no longer had the appeal it once had. That said, our story of Grasse is far from over. While today the amount of flowers harvested is much decreased - just 30 tonnes a year at the turn of the millennium - investment in Grasse’s heritage, such as the innumerous museums and restored factories, has seen the city reclaim a large part of its prestige. The perfume industry continues to employ 2,700 workers and has an annual turnover of 600,000,000€. Its historic status and innate savoir-faire is something that cannot be lost and occupies a welldeserved place on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage for France. There are many who believe that this doesn’t go far enough and an application has recently been submitted for the unEsCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. If the last 40 years have seen something of a downturn for the economy of Grasse, the next 40 years are looking incredibly bright. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton sE announced this year that its maisons of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior would be returning to Grasse, as riviera Insider reported in our september-October edition. These olfactory doyennes have poured millions of euros of investment into building a high-tech laboratory and creative workshop in the heart of Grasse at the historic Fontaines Parfumées site. The masterminds (and natives of Grasse) behind the brands’ most successful perfumes of the 20th and 21st centuries will work side-by-side to create future fragrances. LVMH has also restored Christian Dior’s former home - Le Château de la Colle noire - to its former glory as an events centre. Exclusive partnerships have been signed with local producers to ensure that Grasse’s once flourishing agricultural industry will once again provide the flowers and raw materials for the global perfume trade. This is, perhaps, only the start of another golden age and the next chapter in the story of Grasse. 

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Jérôme viauD Riviera Insider speaks to Grasse’s young and dynamic mayor By ELSA CARPENTER

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When riviera insider headed into the hinterland of the Côte d’azur on a mission to rediscover the ancient city of Grasse, it was at the invitation of Jérôme viaud. We met at the beautiful villa Fragonard, just a stone’s throw from the Musée international de la Parfumerie, where Jérôme talked passionately and enthusiastically about the future of his native Grasse in a historic setting so closely linked with its past.

érôme Viaud has already achieved a great deal in his two and half years as the mayor of Grasse. He is a true man of the town and has placed the concerns of his constituents at the heart of his efforts to improve dayto-day life, but above all, this young and dynamic politician is proving day-in and day-out his desires to restore this historic city to the prestige it once held. Half way through his first mandate, 38-year-old Jérôme has wasted no time in setting about making positive changes for the city. Working directly with the city’s residents to progress, develop and inspire, Jérôme has spent long days (and nights) increasing employment opportunities, improving security, public transport, traffic, infrastructure and events. He has created new initiatives to pull Grasse out of its lull in terms of commerce and tourism, and has taken brave decisions to preserve the ancestral agricultural industry of the city and its surroundings. He has drastically reduced the debts of the city and has refused to give in to pressures that have, up to this point, put constraints on Grasse’s desperate need to build more social housing and motioned to move away from Paris-driven directives. but, more than anything else, Jérôme has expressed his will to lift Grasse out of the ‘dark ages’ and place it firmly in the 21st century. “breathing life back into the town centre is a matter of urgency,” he says. “Cœur de ville, cœur de vie is more than just a slogan. In Grasse, this is something we are all concerned with because we are all potential players in the revitalisation of our town centre. It falls on the citizens themselves just as much as the council.” some of the initiatives designed to tackle Grasse’s ‘fall from grace’ have already begun, others are on the verge of launching. From the restoration of crumbling and defaced housing blocks to large scale public projects such as the high-tech library linked to a university campus and the building of the Martelly commercial zone, each show a wish to redevelop without losing the spirit of this historic place. “since my election in 2014, I have endeavoured to give back to my fellow grassois a sense of belonging,” says Jérome, “to give them a new burst of life and a collective project that will make them proud of their

Since my election, I have endeavoured to give back to my fellow grassois a sense of belonging, to give them a new burst of life and a collective project that will make them proud of their heritage and roots.

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heritage and roots. It’s something that demands courages, determination and enthusiasm from all.” At this half way point, Jérôme is happy with the progress Grasse has made in terms of new investors Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy returning to the city is certainly something to be proud of - but as he concedes: “I wanted things to move quicker.” Admittedly, the city did run into a spot of bad luck in 2015 when two buildings collapsed in the town centre and, separately, Jérôme says he has to readdress a very constricting budget. but he is optimistic and believes Grasse has entered an economic ‘virtuous circle’ that has left him feeling very positive at the midway mark. “since March 2014, not a day has gone by in which the Martelly project hasn’t been mentioned. It is vital for the redynamisation of the town centre and will bring in national brands, a cinema complex, green public spaces, restaurants, parking, accommodation… It covers 2.2 hectares in the heart of Grasse and constitutes a major part of the city’s development. It represents everything we want Grasse to be known for once again: creativity, innovation, culture, style. Grasse is at a turning point in its history. The challenges are immense and we must work together to achieve the vision of a modern city that is respectful of the past and also looks to the future.” Traffic and parking in Grasse, a longtime headache for residents and tourists alike, is another subject Jérôme is keen to tackle. “At peak times, we do have problems. The topography is complex and we must protect the countryside. Everybody wants to solve the problem, but not everyone is willing to give up their car. several dossiers are with the Conseil Départemental regarding solutions: the extension of the Pénétrante, a new exit between Mouans-sartoux and Grasse, the possibility of another at saint Jacques… And we have recently renovated parking at La roque.” The biggest news in Grasse at the moment is the return of the great maisons of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, and the culture they inspire. “It’s an honour and recognition of our savoir-faire,” says Jérôme. “I am very proud. In choosing to reestablish LVMH in Grasse, the group has reinforced the international reputation of the city and support the local area. Louis Vuitton and Dior have already signed many partnerships with young farmers. The maisons will acquire all of their products at a good price for producers that will also allow for investment. They will also work with manufacturing sites to promote innovation by financing the latest equipment. Grasse is associated with perfume in the same way Cannes is with film. It is - and will remain - the world capital of perfume, the birthplace of contemporary perfumery. Agriculture is at the heart of Grasse’s identity: it creates both a beautiful landscape and economic benefits such as jobs. It is an essential part of Grasse that must be preserved through strong protection of the land in the face of urban pressures and renewed urban planning will protect 70 hectares of our most fertile land for the longterm.” 

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LVMH establishes unique creative partnership

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from flower To flacon By ELSA CARPENTER

ince June 2016, two of the finest noses in the perfume industry have been at work in the Fontaines Parfumées of Grasse. The men who own them share many similarities, not least a birthplace and the ability to set scent trends worldwide. Louis Vuitton’s master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-belletrud and François Demachy, perfumer-creator at Christian Dior, were both among the first to learn of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy’s restoration in the city of Grasse. The historic site of the Fontaines Parfumées, which dates back to 1640, was chosen by the group as the focus of its investment. Following four years of historical research and one year of renovations that brought together 200 artisans - 80% from Grasse itself

Top left photo Les fontaines parfuMées HaVe been restored to forMer GLory © Christian Dior Parfums, photographer: Tina Hilier Top right photo tHe perfuMed waters tHat GiVe tHe site its naMe run once aGain © Christian Dior Parfums, photographer: Tina Hilier bottom right photo tHe HiGH-tecH creatiVe worksHop © Christian Dior Parfums, photographer: Tina Hilier

- the establishment was formally inaugurated in september and is now home to Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior’s creative headquarters for their respective perfume branches. The estate itself has been faithfully restored using traditional techniques and materials, which can be seen in elements such as the Génoises, rows of tiles under the eaves that are typical of provençal architecture and required input from specialist stonemasons and ironworkers. The fountain that lends its name and renown to the building has also been treated with respectful care to flow once more with naturally scent-imbued waters: mimosa for the winter months, violet in February, fleur d’oranger in April, the celebrated May and centifolia roses in spring and jasmine until the end of the autumn harvest. The building now houses a cutting-edge, scientific laboratory and creative workshops for the heads of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior’s perfumers. It is hoped that there, amid the scents and smells of authentic Grasse produce, that they will create a new generation of world-class perfumes. Through exclusive partnerships with producers of the region, LVMH has pledged to support and protect the legacy of Grasse and its perfume industry. The Fontaines Parfumées are, critically, the only place in the world where experts from the entire perfume process - growers, artisans and perfumers - will be able to realise their work ‘in constant dialogue’ and harmony. For the garden they once played in as boys, Cavallierbelletrud and Demachy entrusted Grasse-based landscape architect Jean Mus with the task to restoring this fragrant paradise. returning the garden of the Fontaines Parfumées to its former glory was an integral part of the overall project as it will ultimately be a source of inspiration of the grassois extraordinaires. roses, tuberoses, citrus trees and mint all now flourish among some 350 other essences in a garden that took four years to bring to fruition. Mus has created a space in which the two maîtres parfumeurs need only pause for a moment to regain a sense of endemic Grasse fragrance. It is a garden matching the complex and sensual structure of a classic perfume; a celebration of the great flowers that made this city the olfactory capital of the world. revelling in LVMH’s achievement in creating such a unique, creative space is something the global corporation hopes to share. A discovery workshop has been established alongside the high-tech laboratory so that guests can experience the raw materials cultivated in Grasse as well as learn the art of a perfume’s exquisite composition. Plans are already being laid for more serious educational offerings as, in addition to courses offered in institutions across the Côte d’Azur, students and perfume apprentices will be welcomed into the fold at the Fontaines Parfumées to train alongside the group’s master perfumers: ‘in so doing, they maintain the transfer of knowledge from master to disciple, a tradition from which they themselves were beneficiaries’. 

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a naTural sTeP Master perfumers and Grasse natives François Demachy and Jacques Cavallier Belletrud discuss returning to Grasse and what it means to once again be working in their homeland.

hat does this new base in Grasse represent for you? François Demachy,: I grew up in Grasse. If I had not grown up here, I would not be who I am. you learn from a place – perfumery is not something you learn from books, it’s a living initiation that takes place through contact with others. Grasse is home for perfume creation, its excellence and its future. Jacques Cavallier belletrud: It’s through living in this shared culture and speaking daily with those who work in all aspects of the industry that one achieves excellence. We are in constant dialogue with growers, artisans and the factories. Perfume is universal, but

Photo Louis Vuitton Master perfuMer jacques caVaLLier beLLetrud (Left) and cHristian dior perfuMer-creator françois deMacHy © Louis Vuitton Malletier, photographer: Oskar

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the meeting point for that universality is in Grasse. Will Les Fontaines Parfumées renew your approach to creation? F.D.: yes, just like anything that sparks emotion. I played in this garden when I was little; both of us got our start in a factory that’s just 300 metres downhill from here. It’s a unique site – I never would have dreamed of being here one day, and yet today it seems obvious. J.C-b.: I’m a perfumer through and through, and Grasse is a unique source of inspiration: there’s the magic of jasmine at dawn, the light. Contemplation is what drives creation, as the painters who flocked here well knew. What does your arrival here bring to the city? F.D.: The city has a worldwide resonance that the inhabitants of Grasse don’t really realise, lots of people imagine it like a city amid fields of flowers. It ’s important to help the people of Grasse reclaim their heritage – it’s full of promise and the future is bright. J.C-b.: It’s a sign of support and a strong commitment on the part of the LVMH group toward all the local growers, artisans and businesses. I remember seeing perfume factories close when I was a child. Today, we’re seeing a surge of new momentum and we want to be a part of it – we’re looking at the long term. Will you compose perfumes together? F.D.: no, each maison has its own signature and universe. We have always shared things, but with the utmost respect and without ever interfering with the other’s creative process. 

“I PLAyED In THIs GArDEn WHEn I WAs LITTLE; bOTH OF us GOT Our sTArT In A FACTOry THAT’s JusT 300 METrEs DOWnHILL FrOM HErE.” FrAnçOIs DEMACHy

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it is Prince albert’s life task: a committed struggle for our planet and its future. as he says himself, “i simply had to act!”

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a lifeTime ProJecT By PETRA HALL & ELSA CARPENTER

10 years of the Prince Albert II de Monaco foundation

f Prince Albert I, the great grandfather of Monaco’s reigning sovereign, was known as the seafarer and his father, Prince rainier III, was the builder, then today’s Prince Albert II is certainly the environmentalist. Despite being separated in birth by over 100 years, the two Alberts have each dedicated much of their lives to oceanography: Prince Albert I, a man of discovery and exploratory expeditions; and Prince Albert II, a protector and preservationist.

right photo durinG tHe recent Monaco yacHt sHow, GeneraL director GaëLLe taLLarida and ceo of inforMa Group stepHen carter presented tHe prince witH a cHeque for 47,000€ to Go towards tHe foundation’s work aGainst deforestation. © Palais Princier Top photo prince aLbert witH one of tHe bearded VuLtures He reLeased into tHe Mercantour nationaL park © Fondation Prince Albert II Far right photo tHe kinG penGuin is one of Many aniMaLs to receiVe tHe attention of tHe prince © Fondation Prince Albert II

It was 10 years ago, in 2006, that the latter founded the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco once year after his ascension to the throne. Increasing environmental concerns and the threats they pose to the planet were weighing down heavily on Prince Albert - he simply had to act! “I decided to set up a foundation whose purpose is to protect the environment and to encourage sustainable development,” says the prince. “by definition, this is a common global challenge that requires urgent and concrete action in response to three major environmental issues: climate change and renewable energy development; combating the loss of biodiversity; and water management (improving universal access to clean water). I am, as you know, a strong conservationist. This forms part of a tradition marked by my ancestors who illustrated this tradition by their numerous actions… Monaco must be a model country that respects nature.” The creation of the foundation was, in part, inspired by Monaco’s first Albert, who would never meet his great grandson, but would forever affect his life. In 1906, pioneering Prince Albert I set off on an expedition to the unknown regions of spitsbergen at the northern tip of norway. The prince and his team battled bleak and freezing conditions to study the marine life of the area, to investigate the great slabs of sea ice and to photograph its glaciers. In the summer of 2005, Prince Albert II retraced the steps of his ancestor through the harsh landscape to visit the Monacobreen and Lilliehöökbreen glaciers. He was shocked to discover that the ice giants he had grown up looking at in old family photographs had retreated by at least six kilometres. The following year, inspired by his travels, the prince - who by then was already in his late 40s - set off on an Arctic voyage and reached the north Pole in April 2016. During these two consecutive expeditions, the true and devastating affects of global warming were brought home to Prince Albert. On his return to the principality, he established the foundation. Prince Albert is actually the only incumbent head of state and a member of the very small

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community of explorers to have visited both poles following a trip to Antarctica during 2009. The Prince Albert II foundation campaigns both globally and at home: its efforts are focused on the ‘priority geographic areas’ of the polar regions, under developed countries as defined by the united nations and on the Mediterranean basin. “since 2006, we have initiated or supported some 370 projects,” says the prince. “For anyone unfamiliar with our work, that number might seem unremarkable, but anyone who has experienced from the inside what each project represents will realise the extent of our efforts and the importance of the progress made. Every one of these projects answers a local need or addresses a global issue. Every one attempts to help threatened populations or vulnerable ecosystems. Every one endeavours to further our knowledge of the environment and anticipate how it will change. Every one helps bring to light new solutions, to find new ways to reconcile the needs of humanity and our planet’s imperatives. And above all, every one offers new opportunities for cooperation, networking and exchange, whether with stakeholders on the ground or with research centres.” biodiversity and the protection of endangered species is something that has long occupied the 58-year-old prince. Among the foundation’s many projects, animals such as the King penguin, basking shark, sea turtle, Javan rhinoceros, Amur tiger, monk seal and bonelli’s eagle have all received the attention of the prince. The release and reintroduction of a pair of bearded vultures into the Alpes Maritimes in 2007 (pictured), following a 100-year disappearance in the region of Europe’s largest bird of prey and the eighth most endangered species on the continent, was led by the prince. He has also campaigned tirelessly since 2008 for the Mediterranean’s bluefin tuna to be classed as an endangered species under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered species (CITEs). The fight continues, but if the prince’s proposal is accepted in the future, it will effectively put a ban on the international trade of the fish. In the meantime, Monaco stands resolute in its stance: you will find no bluefin tuna on the restaurant menus of the principality. When riviera Insider asked the prince what he most wanted for the future of his twins shortly after they were born in December 2014, he said without thinking, "I want them to live on a healthy planet.” Prince Albert continues to look ahead to the years to come and how he, his supporters and the rest of the global community can leave their own positive impact on the world: “Each of us now needs to demonstrate joint ecological ethics in our behaviour in order to preserve the earth’s richness and natural resources. This is the major challenge of our time. new social responsibility needs to enter the arena in order to address this ecological, economic and societal imperative. The huge progress made must encourage us to pursue and step up our efforts. This is the goal I want to set for the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation for the next few years.” 

Since 2006, we have initiated or supported some 370 projects

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He’s known all over town in the principality and not just because of his large moustache. Daniel Boeri takes part in politics, knows about art and doesn’t care if he makes people uncomfortable. He says, “Monaco va bien,” but at the same time, there is much that he wants to change in his native land.

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Quo vaDis, monaco? Daniel Boeri: portrait of a Monegasque original By AILA STÖCKMANN

f anyone can be called a jack-ofall-trades, it is certainly he. For many years, the graduate in economics and sociology has earned his living as a consultant to companies around the globe. Daniel boeri also teaches at various universities, is a co-founder of the Paris-based Ecole des Affaires, has written numerous books, runs a Monaco blog, opened a gallery six years ago and is even involved in politics. Three years ago, he was elected to the Conseil national (the Monegasque parliament) following his return to Monaco after many years of living abroad in France and elsewhere. “Monaco is doing fine,” he says, “but we live in an uncertain world.” Even in a country such as the principality, Daniel is aware that it is important to ‘look ahead in order to remain competitive, follow a vision and not rest on your laurels’. He has already filled two books with his ideas, the most recent one titled Monaco – quoi faire? “We have a constitutional monarchy here,” he explains, “and Europe doesn’t really understand that. Europe would prefer a parliamentary monarchy.” The primary difference between them is that Monaco’s prince is involved in state business and can dismiss the government, while in a parliamentary monarchy he would not have this right and would largely perform representational duties. It’s always necessary to remind yourself of the following figures in order to understand Monaco, Daniel adds. There are around 9,000 Monegasque natives, about 35,000 residents and 50,000 workers

in Monaco. These are figures that completely turn conventional ratios on their head. Daniel is a man who has always been interested in politics. He was once part of the election campaign team for Jacques Chirac. In Monaco, he is currently responsible for the Department of Culture and Cultural Heritage. His main concern is to ensure that Monaco will continue to attract people in 20 years’ time. He supports the move towards télétravail, which could allow more flexibility during periods when the journey by car from nice can take two hours. “People could take it in turns - one week one person works from home, the next week their colleague does.” Jobs in industry currently account for 9% of employment in the principality and will eventually disappear, predicts the economist. “What’s the smartest way to replace these jobs?” he asks. For Daniel, this is one of the burning issues of today. but it is far from the only one and right now Daniel is protesting against the extension of land in the principality. Protesting is something he enjoys and his passions are what continue to drive him. “I am passionate about doing something for my country,” says the Monegasque, who has long since passed the age of retirement. He provides something of a mixed message on the planned expansion of land in Monaco. One minute he argues that he would probably be the only representative in the national Assembly to oppose this plan, only to back down a moment later. "I'm not totally against it, but the project as it currently stands has no regard for Monaco’s soul I see it as my duty to take a position here!”

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Talks have been going on for years about reclaiming land from the sea to create a new district between the port and the Grimaldi Forum. The original plans have already been toned down due to costs and the discussions are now focusing on creating six hectares of above sea level land. One of the difficulties is the underwater terrain, where the seabed quickly falls to 40 metres. Daniel is primarily concerned about the social consequences of the plan: “It would create a neighbourhood that would be purely for the rich,” he argues, a move that would destroy at a single stroke the things that make Monaco what it is today. “A colourful mix of nationalities lives here. There are luxury apartments and completely normal housing. Commercial, office and residential space are all mixed together. What is planned here goes against Monaco’s nature.” Continuing in the same vein, Daniel also suggests

Photo danieL boeri in His LiVinG rooM, wHicH cLoseLy reseMbLes a wareHouse of Modern art. © AS

Monaco must become more modern! DANIEL BOERI

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that the principality needs to be a more vibrant place and not only at weekends. Keeping up with local competition is a major factor here. For example, the two shopping centres need to pull their weight if they are to avoid losing customers to the Polygone riviera in Cagnes-sur-Mer. Essentially, some far-reaching visions are required for his country. Merely planning from one year to the next is not enough and this also applies to his own area of responsibility: culture. “We need to ask the question: what needs to be done so that our children still want to live here in two decades’ time? We must become more modern!” The nuit blanche that took place for the first time this spring was a start: contemporary art in all its forms - visual arts, performances, film, music, dance - throughout the night in the open air and free of charge. Art and culture have always been a labour of love for the 72-year-old. six years ago. he founded a gallery in Monaco - the Entrepôt (warehouse) on rue de Millo between Place d'Armes and the port. It provides emerging artists with a place to exhibit and often demonstrates some good instincts too. Everyone benefits from this idea: the artist gains access to a platform in an affluent market while buyers can obtain paintings and sculptures at affordable prices. Daniel benefits too, of course: every artist leaves him a piece of work in exchange for the opportunity to exhibit. Thus his living room has long resembled a warehouse with art in every corner. Daniel called his gallery the Entrepôt for a different reason, however. His parents were clothing manufacturers and had previously owned the hall in the La Condamine district for storing their goods. "I just kept the space so I could use it for something one day,” explains the art enthusiast. Around every two months, he shows the latest work by a new artist and Daniel has travelled the world in order to find suitable candidates. While he wants to be known primarily as a supporter of young talent, he has also presented work from leading artists such as Christo. As a true Monegasque, Daniel is, of course, personally acquainted with Prince Albert II. A photo in his living room proves how well he also knew the prince’s parents: it shows him together with Prince rainier III and Princess Grace at the Olympic Games in rome in 1960. At this point, Daniel comes to a halt for the first and only time during our conversation. How well is Prince Albert doing his job, riviera Insider wants to know. “you cannot compare him with his parents because they lived at a different time with different challenges,” he finally answers. "We have a prince in today’s world and this is not an easy...” He finally concludes: “We are doing well. The state has no debt. so we can take the time we need for the development and implementation of our visions." 

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monaco

fêTe naTionale  19TH nOVEMbEr In MOnACO

us emBassY celeBraTes  10 yEArs In WAsHInGTOn D.C.

ince 2006, the Monaco embassy in Washington D.C. has been working to promote the warm friendship shared between the u.s. and the principality, and this year, the union celebrates a decade of collaboration. “Our American friends share our values and ideas,” Prince Albert II told those who had gathered diplomatics, politicians, civil servants, social and charitable organisations, businessmen and women, and the press - at the home of ambassador Maguy Maccario Doyle for the celebratory event in september. “They understand our determination to work together on subjects of mutual importance… They will always be warmly welcomed in Monaco.” Exiting president barack Obama, who could not be present at the event, sent a message of congratulations that unlined the close ties between his nation and that of Prince Albert, which go back more than 150 years. Ambassador for Monaco Maguy Maccario Doyle thanked her dynamic team at the embassy, which is one of the newest diplomatic establishments in the American capital, for their work over the last decade. “We share the same beliefs and worries,” she said during her speech, “we join together with the rest of the international community to tackle the great challenges of our time.” 

uring the reign of Prince Albert II, the national Day is held on 19th november, which is also saint-rainier day. This joyful day starts with a Te Deum and mass in the Cathédrale notreDame-Immaculée attended by the Grimaldi family, Monegasque officials and residents. The traditional nabucco opera will be hosted at the Grimaldi Forum and will be attended by the entire Grimaldi family (exclusively invite only). Festivities are organised throughout the town, including a magnificent fireworks display (taking place the previous evening at 8.30pm over the Port Hercules), concerts, parades on the Place du Palais and ceremonies. Down in the port, the fun fair will provide entertainment for children and adults alike. 

prince aLbert ii of Monaco witH Monaco’s aMbassador MaGuy Maccario doyLe. © Palais Princier/G.Luci

Top photo tHe catHédraLe notre-daMe-iMMacuLée durinG tHe 2015 fête nationaLe. © Charly Gallo Top photo prince aLbert, princess cHarLene and tHeir cHiLdren pictured on tHe baLcony of tHe paLais princier in 2015. © Charly Gallo

prince aLbert, princess cHarLene and tHeir younG son prince jacques are pictured at tHe annuaL u caVaGnëtu picnic, a ceLebration of MoneGasque tradition and HeritaGe for tHe LocaL coMMunity. entertainMent was proVided by tHe u cantin d’a roca cHoir and tHe dancers of tHe paLLadienne. © Palais Princier

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monseigneur, lifT Your glass! Prince Albert celebrates Oktoberfest with more than 500 guests at the Café de Paris Monaco’s Oktoberfest at the Café de Paris is one of the highlights of the season. The 11th edition was opened by Prince Albert II with the traditional tapping of the ﬁrst barrel of Weihenstephan beer in the presence of some 500 guests in mid-October. Many of those attending wore Bavarian dresses while the prince was in an authentic jacket. t’s easy to see how much Prince Albert loves this kind of down-to-earth festival. but the idea of hosting an authentic Oktoberfest with tasty tidbits and, of course, the original beer didn’t come exclusively from him. Tonio Arcaini, the founder and owner of TA Distribution, was complaining one day about the unpalatable beer at the Café de Paris when a close friend of the prince overheard him and decided to introduce the two. When Prince

Albert invited Arcaini along to the Oktoberfest in Munich one year, the beer connoisseur couldn’t help but say, “Monseigneur, why don’t we hold an Oktoberfest at the Café de Paris?” Monaco’s sovereign was thus at the cradle of today’s popular event that Italian businessman Arcaini has organised for the past 11 years with partners société des bains de Mer and the oldest brewery in the world, Weihenstephan. He’s done particularly well with the

band Echt Guat who play each year and never fail to get the festival’s guests up to sing and dance. An incredible atmosphere! When bandleader Hansi schitter from salzburg shouts down the microphone, “Monseigneur, levez votre verre!” the prince follows his words along with the guests. no one wanted to go home that evening, especially Prince Albert who did a duet on stage at 1am

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with the band! The specialties on offer such as the bread plate with radish, ham and lard, char, bavarian wedding soup, suckling pig with potato dumplings and apple swirl desserts came very close to the typical cuisine of the bavarian region. Even the weather was almost identical to the opening day of the Munich Oktoberfest: it was pouring. 

Photo director of tHe café de paris stefano brancato (Left) and tonio arcaini of ta distribution weLcoMe prince aLbert ii © Philippe Fitte, TA Distribution SAM

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in the exciting world of megayachts, there is a date in the yearly calendar that no one dare miss. That’s Monaco Yacht Show.

mYs A yacht show with no rivals By ELSA CARPENTER

he atmosphere down at Port Hercules for the Monaco yacht show swings from laid-back to tailback. Thousands take the blue carpet around the harbour: some walking hurriedly while simultaneously talking on their phones and checking their watch, others take in the splendour of the luxury yachts moored in the port and enjoy a coffee or flute of champagne in the sun. Meetings are made, business cards

exchanged, hands shook, glasses clinked… It’s business as usual for the world’s most prestigious yachting event. There’s good reason for it too. The industry is doing well and new clients continue to flood into the market from around the globe. The size and number of the yachts on exhibit aren’t showing any sign of crisis either as was feared a few years ago. In fact, the number of smaller vessels is growing: in neighbouring Italy, for example, the amount of new yachts being commissioned and built has swelled by 25%. It’s harder to tell for the megayachts of up to 200 metres in length, with each project can take up to seven or eight years as standard from first dream to first sail, but the shipyards seem optimistic. All in all, some 125 world-class vessels found their way to the king of all boating shows in late september. One thing is for sure, however: if you’re not at Monaco yacht show, you’ve already been forgotten. 

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monaco

a musT-aTTenD DesTinaTion for angloPhone enTrePrise For well-known brands and newcomers By ELSA CARPENTER

uth Douglas the general manager of british fine linens brand Heirlooms has been coming to Monaco yacht show for the last 15 years. “As we don’t have a retail site, attending shows like Monaco yacht show are a real ‘shop window’ for customers. It can be difficult to gauge the effectiveness of trade shows, but we’ve been coming to Monaco for 15 years now and we invest in our presence here.” A holder of british royal Warrants granted by Queen Elizabeth II and the Prince of Wales, the West sussex linens brand had some exciting news as riviera Insider passed the stand: one client is waiting to sign off on the sale of a superyacht at the show. Once the sale is concluded, ruth and her team will board the vessel,

IF yOu’rE nOT AT MOnACO yACHT sHOW, yOu’VE ALrEADy bEEn FOrGOTTEn

tour the interior and being putting together the project. It pays to be at Monaco yacht show. A more recently addition to the exhibitors map is yacht needs, a Monaco-based app for the yachting community at large that was created and launched a little over a year ago by new Zealander Tony stout. “This is the first year that we’ve actually been at the show with a stand,” Tony says, “and I definitely think yacht needs will be back again in 2017.” The show has been a chance for Tony and his 17-strong team to connect with their broad range of users - yacht owners, charter guests, crew, suppliers - and to self-promote in a ideal setting that brings together the entire audience. For u.s. company naiad Dynamics, a specialist in stabilisation of boats between 20 and 250 metres in length - the Monaco yacht show meet is a social endeavour. “For us, the Mys is the most important fair of the year among the 15 we participate in. The time between september and December is the busiest time in the industry. usually, we have to travel all over the world to meet our customers, but here in Monaco, you can meet them all in one place. Contracts might not be signed here, but it is preparation. We also need to see what the shipyards are putting out so that we can be ready.” 

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1 Monaco’s former interior minister, current advisor to the president of As Monaco and vice president of the As Monaco basket Paul Masseron and his wife 2 Managing Director of CMb Monaco bank Werner Peyer and his wife stopped by to say ‘Hello’ 3 norwegian couple and riviera Press readers Kirsten and Arne Graee, who live in Monaco, visited our stand 4 Kira roeloffs and Andrew Court from Meta art, jewellery and design gallery in Monaco 5 Head of admissions Angela Godfrey from the International school of Monaco

6 Prince Albert steps out of the ultra luxe bell helicopter

©Palais Princier

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©Palais Princier

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7 Patron of Mys Prince Albert II steps aboard a luxury vessel for a private viewing 8 Musician James rubens from Chicago 9 General director of Mys Gaëlle Tallarida with Prince Albert and other Monegasque dignitaries 10 riviera Insider editor Elsa Carpenter with Club Vivanova founder bradley Mitton 11 nicolas Hesse is one of the organisers of the salon International de l'Automobile de Monaco, which will take place in February 2017 11

12 riviera Insider’s Aurélie Allamandi with the sixinch Marine team 12

9 10

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Business

#cotedazurnow Tourism industry feels the chill, but campaigns to reconquer public conﬁdence s 2016 reached the halfway mark, the Côte d’Azur was stable. revenue was up 1% on the previous year and exports were improving (2%) as revealed by Jean-Pierre savarino, the vice president of the region’s Chamber of Commerce and Industry - CCI. Even unemployment rates were showing slight signs of improvement (down 0.5% between January and June, and down 1% in the hospitality trade), but it was sadly not to last. Following the shocking attack on the Promenade des Anglais on 14th July, which left 86 dead and hundreds injured, the tourism industry stalled and businesses began to feel a chill of confidence in the air. At a september press conference at the CCI’s headquarters in nice, savarino conceded that while the region’s Café-Hotel-restaurant industry - HCr - had been doing well in the first half of the year, confident and optimism among

those in the management bracket fell 15% in the two short months following the tragic event. With the summer coming slowly to a close, hotel reservations were down on the previous year. At the end of August, 54% of hotel rooms had been reserved for september (down six points) and 35% for October (down three points). The drop may not appear significant, but as Jean-François Agostini, the director of regional and business support for the CCI, noted, “The deterioration of confidence risks stopping the dynamism seen in previous months… Difficulties related to businesses’ cash flow could manifest this winter for the smaller companies.” Agostini is deeply involved in the newly created Guichet unique Post Attentat, a government plan aimed at assisting business owners in the management of their finances and securities (urssAF, DDFIP, rsI, DIrECCTE, bPIfrance and banks) following

the attack. Over 100 businesses have signed up to the scheme. 74% are based in nice and among them 26% are restaurant establishments and 14% are hotels. More than 1,000 local businesses in the Côte d’Azur were interviewed for the special report released at the press event, which shines a light on regional concerns for a post-bastille Day attack future: 60% of business owners noted a decrease in activity following the terrorist act (73% in the nice area). Despite the overall positive start to the year and the first few weeks of summer sales, 61% of retail traders told the CCI they were unsatisfied with results and 66% reported less visitors to their stores and boutiques than during the sales of the previous year. As always, a crisis can prove decisive and there are those who flee and those who fight: 24% said they are considering investing in their business. And fight is what the Côte d’Azur, France’s second most popular destination for tourists, has vowed to do. Mayor of Cannes and president of the Comité régional du Tourisme (CrT) for the Côte d’Azur David Lisnard is one of a number of prominent politicians from the

riviera Business cluB awarDs Championing talent on the Côte d’Azur he annual riviera business Club Awards, a celebration of entrepreneurial spirit and success on the Côte d’Azur, are to be held at the radisson bleu in Cannes on 2nd December. The prestigious awards will be given to the winners of the two categories: business Person of the year Award and start-up of the year Award. To win the business Person of the year Award, those shortlisted will be owners of a company registered

in the PACA region or the Principality of Monaco and been in business for a minimum of five years as at 1st september 2016. For the start-up award, individuals must have recently founded a company in the same regions and have been in business for a minimum of one year as at 1st september 2016. nominations can no longer be filled for the two prestigious awards. All reservations can be made at  rivierabusinessclub.fr.

 rIVIErA InsIDEr AnnOunCEs THE nOMInEEs

for This Year’s riviera Business cluB awarDs

area who helped secure the 1,000,000€ revival campaign #cotedazurnow: a sum that was collected from several avenues including from the department itself, the PACA region and the French state. The campaign, which is largely being played out via social media and targeted marketing messages, encourages internet users to share photographs and images of the Côte d’Azur online and on apps such as Instagram using the hashtag. since the campaign was launched in the weeks after the attack, the public has responded with more than 31,300 posts. Lisnard and the team behind #cotedazurnow estimate that the campaign reaches around 12.6 million people per week. It has so far received excellent support from local businesses and sporting events such as the régates royales in Cannes, ultra-Trail and the OGC nice football club, which each bring thousands of external visitors to the region. Over the next few months, the CrT Côte d’Azur is planning to expand its presence on the tourism networking stage to attend various international exhibitions like the French Affairs new york, Imex America and the Provence Travel Convention.

Business Person of the Year Isabelle Pieterman, Doggy's Cool doggyscool@outlook.com isapieterman@yahoo.fr www.education-canine.org Tracy Leonetti, Lbs tracyleonetti@language-businessservices.com Kerry bracken and Jennifer rocher, Lavender & rose contact@lavenderandrose.fr Start-Up of the Year Andy Colgan, Colgan's brewery apwcolgan@hotmail.co.uk Celine Epeirier, Mama baker bonjour@mamabaker.fr ryan Frost, Harrison brook doriane.masson@harrisonbrook.co.uk

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cefoliac Tailor-made French language learning earning a second (or third) language no longer needs to be about arduously memorising vocabulary lists and endlessly repeating grammar points before a strict, unforgiving teacher. beaulieu-sur-Mer-based school CeFoLiAc (Centre de Formations Linguistiques Actionnelles) and its founder Dr stefanie brandt take language learning to task with highly successful, bespoke classes, but you’ll find no stuffiness here. Playfulness and pleasure in learning have been at the core of stefanie’s business ethos since she launched the school in 2009. Whether you’re a newcomer to the Côte d’Azur and moved here for work or family, are an interested traveller passing through and hoping to pick up the local lingo, or have been living here for many years, but are yet to master the art of French conversation, CeFoLiAc tailors its classes to your goals and aspirations. “It’s about being able to successfully communicate in different situations,” stefanie explains, “you could be going shopping or to the market, or even trying to read a user manual in French.” And to that end, it’s out with dusty, old textbooks and in with up-to-date magazine and newspaper articles, video clips and commercials. “The aim is to end up accomplishing tasks in a foreign language and immersing yourself in the culture.” Classes are small and limited to adults, although stefanie does allow for some exceptions. Perhaps surprisingly, neither stefanie nor her colleagues and employees are native French speakers. Instead they come from a range of international backgrounds. “We see that as an advantage,” she tells riviera Insider, “because we understand better what is missing in the language learning process.” In addition to French, CeFoLiAc also offers classes in English, German, Italian, spanish and russian. The duration of courses differs according to the curriculum and are taught at the language centre and other venues across the Côte d’Azur. The institute’s largest clients are, as to be expected, expats living in the French riviera, but stefanie and her team also teach many students in a corporate environment. All students are educated in accordance with the Common European Framework of reference for Languages.  cefoliac.com

flY Kiss exTenDs flighT rouTes Nice at the heart of development strategy ember of the Enhance Aéro group Fly Kiss has added a number of new flight paths to its reach including Lille in northern France. nice-Lille can be accessed via a connecting flight through brest for 184€ each way on the basic tarif (229€ in Optimum, 414€ in Premium). The flight takes off at 4.40pm on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and lands at 8.30pm. return flights are available at 8.15am on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and 8.10am on Fridays (respective arrival times are 12.05pm and 12pm. Clients can also fly off to brest and Clermont-Ferrand. The airline specialises in VIP chartered flights for individuals or large groups and boasts 99.9% punctuality record.

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riviera

insurance

Driving on The righT siDe of The law The legality of insuring a foreign-plated car in France By ELSA CARPENTER

French insurance is diﬀerent in virtually every area to the British system of insurance. The range of policies and the legislation that come with them can be baﬄing to even the most astute reader, but car insurance, and in particular the insurance laws regarding foreignplated vehicles, is certainly one of the most misunderstood.

very year, thousands of british citizens pack up their cars and head to France for a new life. Many continue to drive a righthand wheel vehicle long after we have left the uK and moved to France permanently. but once on the road and on the other side of it - many drivers of british-plated vehicles stumble into their first obstacle of living abroad. Insuring a car or vehicle is mandatory at third party cover level across Europe, but that’s where the similar rules and regulations end. Each country has a right to set its own traffic and driving laws, and France is no different. Owner of sOs Anglo Valérie roger tells riviera Insider that it is illegal for a britishplated vehicle to be insured longterm in France. “The French government only allows a british-plated vehicle to be insured on French soil for 30 days. After that, the plates must be changed to French. This applies to foreign vehicles of all origin,” she says. Franck Haloche is the director of Agency Allianz, a France-based company that provides insurance to over 3,000 british clients across the country. He echoes Valérie, but does admit that it can be very difficult if not impossible - for owners to complete the process: “In a best case scenario, it can take between two and four months, although it can take as long as six.” The first of many confusions begins here as Tracy Leonetti from Lbs explains, “you legally have one month to register your imported car, but this often slides to six months as you are not classed as a resident in France until this time. so you can bend the rules slightly! However, you need to ensure that your insurance company covers you whilst you are abroad.” changing the plates sOs Anglo’s Valérie, a professional advisor to british expats in France is also far too familiar with the rigours of registering a british vehicle and changing plates. “For cars less than four years old, the process is straight forward with the prefecture, but for older vehicles it can be more complicated. A certificate of conformity is required from the manufacturer to prove that it is to French and Eu standards. This can take three weeks alone so to complete the entire process within just four is, often, a dream. newer cars don’t require a valid MOT, but for one over the four-year bracket, the MOT must have been signed within six months. It is another part of the documentation required by the prefecture.” Lbs’ Tracy agrees, saying, “German and Italian registration are more complex than

other European countries and take slightly longer. In all cases, you will need a certificate of European conformity, proof of residence in France (less than three months), quittas fiscal, Contrôle Technique (MOT) if the car is more than four years old, identity papers, the Cerfa document 13750*03, and proof of buying (stamped original invoice from the garage) or receipt for private sale. Once the file is validated at the prefecture, you will receive a temporary carte grise in order that you can get your plates changed at a local garage. This is usually valid for one month. your carte grise will arrive in the post within five to 10 business days maximum. Any longer than this means that there has been a problem and you should contact the prefecture.” onus on the driver Matt Ware from HIC insurance says that they can cover a uK-plated car in France for any time period ‘so long as local law allows that vehicle to be driven on French roads’. “We understand that if a vehicle is kept permanently in France for more than 12 months, it is deemed to have been permanently exported and must comply with all laws in the new country,” says Matt. “We believe, therefore, that as long as the vehicle

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is drive back to the uK in that 12 months, however briefly, the 12 months is reset each time. If someone is permanently resident in France and does not return to the uK within 12 months then it has been permanently exported and should be registered and insured in France. The onus, in terms of ‘is something legal to drive’ is on the motorist. If it's legal to drive, it can be covered by insurance.” There is a grey area with regards to nonFrench residents who are spending stretches of time in France. “british insurance becomes invalid after the one month period for residents,” explains Franck, “but not if a driver still has a uK address and is a uK resident.” And it is believed that there are hundreds, if not thousands, of expats currently using the uK address strategy to avoid changing the plates of their vehicle despite living and working in l’hexagone. Others choose to register and cover their vehicle as sOrn in the uK, however Matt explains that this renders a car illegal to drive anywhere, including in France. For HIC, the british-plated vehicle would need to be ‘taken off sOrn, taxed, MOTd and insured in the usual way to be covered under an HIC expat policy’.

The sanctions for owners who have not changed their plates, either by ignoring the advice of their insurance broker or failing to provide the necessary documentation to complete the process, can be hard. should a driver have an accident whilst illegally driving on british (or otherwise) plates, a legitimate insurer will not pay out. For the more dubious insurers who are willing to provide insurance for british-plated vehicles - and there are many in France and the abroad - it is a little less clear whether the driver will be protected, but considering their flouting of French law, one can assume it is unlikely that they will stand by the owner in times of need. “An insurer will check the insurance of any driver involved in an accident or collision following the event,” Franck says, “and if they discover that the insurance is invalid because the vehicle is still on british plates [outside of the 30-day grace period], the claim will not be covered. Whether it is hundreds or thousands of euros, the owner will have to pay.” Tracy cautions, “If you get stopped by the police and have a car that is not registered in France, you could get a fine of 135 euros. Generally, the insurance companies I work with ask for the car to be registered in France and will cover the car whilst the process is being implemented, which can take one month or more depending on the country of origin. There are insurance companies, however, that will insurance foreign cars in France. Each insurance company has its own rules and, of course, the premium you pay will be in line with this. Do check the small print and ensure that if you have an accident, your costs are covered.” And it can be a lot more serious than a few hundred or even thousand euros. In the tragic event of a fatality, the owner will be expected to cover all costs due to the family. english-language paperwork Managing a crisis such as the unfortunate scenario of an accident can be hard enough in one’s native tongue, but if the driver isn’t competent in the French language, it can be extremely difficult. During my research into the topic of legally insuring a british-plated vehicle in France, I came across a number of troubling testimonies from Anglophone drivers who had been duped into taking the blame. Kerry Giroud, a british expat living in France for a decade, is just one of many who was involved in such an incident. “I was in the right hand lane of a roundabout and the driver of the other car was in the left hand lane. As we came up to the exit, she very quickly sped up to cut in front of me and take the exit,” Kerry explains. “I slowed down as much as I could, but still hit the rear right

insurance

hand side of her car. We were both shaken up, but I got out immediately to make sure she was OK and gave her a drink to calm her. she called her boss - I believe it may have been a company car - who arrived with her adult son. They helped fill out the [Constat Amiable d’Accident Automobile] form as I didn’t understand everything and were very friendly and reassuring. They told me, promised me, that they had written that it was her fault. I kept double-checking with the lady who had caused the crash, her boss and her son that they were writing that. When it came to the diagram, they said, ‘We’ll do that later.’ I was unwilling to sign the form, but with the adrenaline rush and the fact that they were all becoming quite agitated, I signed.” Once home, Kerry spoke with her insurers and explained what had happened. “They said they would wait to receive the forms and I took my car straight to the garage the next morning to have the damage verified.” but when her insurers finally did receive both parties paperwork, it became clear that Kerry had been lied to. “According to the forms, the entire crash was my fault,” Kerry says. “The blame was all on me. I contested the forms as I knew what they had written was not correct, but I couldn’t prove it. When the other car went to the garage, the other party also tried to claim for damage that was already there. In fact, the garage was able to prove that it would have been impossible for my car to have caused some of the damage.” Although the matter was finally closed - “The whole thing took six months to clear up and my insurance ended up paying out around 1,000€,” she says - it was a hard lesson for Kerry. “It was all based on trust,” she says. “I know better now. I always drive with a camera in the car to take photographs as proof as I had before, but I am requesting an English version of the form.” Allianz’s Franck is keen to inform foreign road users that there is an alternative to tackling the complex language of the form: “Any reputable insurance branch will be able to provide English-speaking clients with an English version of the Constat Amiable d’Accident Automobile, which is used in the case of crash or accident and must be in the glovebox of a vehicle at all times. nine out of 10 of our clients are british and we have between three and five new customers each day so we know how important it is to be able to have English language documentation. ” It’s worth noting that some kindly insurers even offer to talk one through the form via telephone at the site of the accident. 

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healThY choices rewarDeD

income Tax DeDucTeDaT-source in 2018

Insurance rates according to lifestyle

Tax & ﬁnance column he main characteristics of the ‘deduction-at-source’ system have just been revealed and further details have come to such: this new reform will be included in the 2017 Finance Act. The ‘deduction-at-source’ of income tax will concern almost all French citizens (employees, retired, persons with income replacement benefits like unemployment benefits…). The income tax will be paid at source according to a tax rate calculated by the Tax Administration. This rate will be based on the last income tax return, but the employee can ask the tax authority not to give to his employer his personal rate. In this case, a neutral rate tax will be used and if there is an additional due amount, the taxpayer will be able to pay it directly to the Tax Authority. Thus tax

confidentiality should be maintained. For a couple, spouses will have the possibility to choose two different rates according to their income. self-employed and landlords with income from property will have to pay monthly or quarterly instalments calculated with the figures of the previous year. If there are important income changes, they will have the possibility to ask for an updating of the instalments. Concerning tax credits and deductions, they will be considered from 1st January of the following year and not for the current year. Finally, taxpayers will always have to fill in an income tax return each year and the progressive tax bands remain. This new system will be tested in some companies and should come into force on 1st January 2018.

emigraTing as a nonresiDenT With the International Branch of Banque Populaire Côte d'Azur ollowing in the footpaths of Austria and Germany, from 2017, insurance company Generali will be offering its clients in France special tarifs for the health conscious. under the new plans, clients will collect vitality points throughout their daily lives from Generali partners, but there are concerns about the extent of access to intimate, personal data. If you eat fresh and organic produce every day then you’ll have good prospects for a gold medal in Germany at least. The scheme is yet to get underway on French soil, but shopping for vitality points could be the future of personalised insurance policies here. Each time a client visits a gym or

supermarket affiliated with Generali, they accumulate points that, in time, allow clients to achieve bronze, silver and gold medals. These medals translate into benefits, bonuses and, crucially, cheaper insurance policies. but there are many who are skeptical about the extent to which insurers will be able to access personal information. In Germany, 32% of those interviewed said they did not mind passing personal health and fitness information to an insurance company if they were asked to pay less in return. 39%, however, completely rejected the idea. In France this summer, health minister Marisol Tourraine said that personal data should only be used to research purposes. 

re you planning to retire to the sun of the French riviera as a non-resident of France? The International branch of banque Populaire Côte d'Azur can advise you on all relevant tax obligations while taking into account the international nature of your assets with its private banking service dedicated solely to non-residents and foreigners. settling down and buying in a foreign country will involve different tax practices to those of your native country. Our knowledge of the treaties that

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prevent double taxation between France and other countries around the world allows us to guide you and answer all of your queries. To get things moving, speak to our specialists based in the nice Arénas area. After several long months of works, we are happy to announce that our city centre, international agency will be reopening its doors again soon at 22 boulevard Victor Hugo. For more information, please visit our website internationalbranchbpca.com or contact us at international-branch@bpca.fr or on +33 (0)4 93 21 56 90.

bPCE – société anonyme à directoires et conseil de surveillance au capital de 155 742 320 € - siège social : 50, avenue Pierre-Mendès-France – 75201 Paris Cedex 75201 Paris Cedex 13 rCs Paris n° 493 455 042. bPCE, intermédiaire d’assurances immatriculée d’assurances immatriculée à l’Orias sous le numéro 08 045 100.

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choosing healTh insurance for Your familY Leading insurance specialist for foreign residents ASN explains ifestyle and cultural differences can be very different from one country to the next. The same applies to insurance between your home and host counties. no matter whether you have emigrated or are planning a long-term stay abroad, your existing insurance cover will usually not accompany you on the trip. Without consultation, having to find cover in a different country that can have very different policies to those that you are accustomed to can be virtually impossible.

Do not leave your health care at home: good advice for finding insurance abroad does not have to be expensive, but bad or even incorrect advice can cost you a lot. Asn has been the market leader for the international insurance solutions market for over 20 years. Due to the close, personal contact with our international provider network, we are able to influence the development of new products and are able to identify trends on the insurance market at an early stage. For the competent and personal

advice of our customers, the experts of the Asn have a highly modernised consulting tool. The systematic collection of data and the complex comparisons of the general insurance conditions of international insurance products are constantly analysed and evaluated. Combined with the many years of experience of the Asn specialists, the company guarantees a well-founded know-how on which they can rely at any time. Personal contact with our customers is very important. Only in this way can their needs be recognised and all relevant questions clarified. As a result, Asn is able to provide its customers with the best insurance cover for their needs worldwide. The Asn helpdesk is, of course, available to customers at any time after the conclusion of a contract. Consultation is available in English, French, German, Italian and spanish. ď&#x201A;&#x2DC;

Lucien HĂŠritier, Head of Support aSN - advisory Services Network aG www.asn.ch

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Business

financial securiTY for real esTaTe agenTs anD clienTs CFM Indosuez and Monaco’s Chambre Immobilière establish partnership By ELSA CARPENTER onaco banking giant CFM Indosuez Wealth Management has been chosen by the Chambre Immobilière de Monaco as the provider of financial banking securities for their members. The agreement, which was signed in early september, has set down an unprecedented structure of financial security for affiliated real estate agents in the principality during the period that they hold funds and securities for their clients. The scheme covers all operations in which agents are performing transactions on property and business assets as well as those related

to real estate management, administrative activities pertaining to properties and also property management companies. President of the real estate chamber Michael Dotta said, “Individuals and professions who contact a property agency in Monaco must to be reassured that they are dealing with a person of repute and someone they can rely on and place their confidence in. All of our members, who each comply with very selective criteria, must be covered by a financial guarantee. As the banking institution of reference in Monaco, we have chosen CFM Indosuez Wealth

Photo president of tHe cHaMbre iMMobiLière de Monaco MicHaeL dotta, GeneraL director of cfM indosueZ GiLLes MartinenGo and tHeir teaMs at tHe siGninG of tHe partnersHip © O. Warter

Management as the provider.” The CFM Indosuez Wealth Management bank is part-owned (30%) by the grandes familles of Monaco and 70% by the Crédit Agricole group. “since its creation,” says General Director Gilles Martinengo, “CFM Indosuez has been an active participant in the development of the principality. As a banking leader [in Monaco], it seemed natural to

us to work with the Chambre Immobilière de Monaco, who bring together the principal real estate agencies. This financial guarantee provides concrete proof to clients that these agencies are of quality and repute. It is also an opportunity for us to show our multi-faceted expertise regarding real estate financing.”  ca-indosuez.com/monaco

DiamonD TraDing

 LArGEsT COMMErCIAL TrADInG FACILITy In FrAnCE OPEns In nICE

brand new financial concept has been launched in nice by a group of young, visionary traders. Marc-Antoine De Villiers, his twin brother raphaël and winner of Duels de Trading 2015 Maxime Millecamps have created an opportunity currently unique in France; a trading facility open to both professionals and amateurs alongside a training ‘school’ that pairs experienced traders with those keen to discover the profession.

“This concept has been highly developed in English-speaking countries, notably in London,” says De Villiers. “The Arcades de Trading is a concept new to France and unites a trading academy with a rentable trading facility. Within the capacity of professional traders - specialists in private management - we founded Diamond Academy as a place for private, individual traders to get in touch with professionals, benefit from their savoir-faire and advice, and optimise their results on the stock market.” The founders are all masters in finance with extensive expertise in investment and hedge funds. The new venture represents France’s first trading school where the ‘teaching body’ is made up entirely of professional traders. They hope to open the doors to a craft that remains somewhat secretive to the outside world and encourage those intrigued by trading to try their hand. “We have developed our concept

Photos tHe new, priVate tradinG faciLities in nice are a first for france

of rentable space in line with our trading room,” adds De Villiers, “so that everyone can evolve [their talents] within an optimum environment and alongside those with professional experience. It’s a unique opportunity for independent traders to benefit from the iden-

tical infrastructure and services provided in trading rooms across the world.” A one week training package begins at 2,950€. A weekly subscription for traders looking to rent a desk costs 780€ and an annual subscription costs 9,360€. 

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moDern living Domaine de Gairaut in Nice Nord

athed in natural light and surrounded by lush verdure: an extraordinary real estate project is currently being built on the northern fringe of nice above the Cimiez quartier. At the foot of the Colline de Gairaut and in some 4.6 hectares of ancient olive groves and citrus trees, five deliberately low-key luxury apartment complexes have risen from the earth to create 25 private homes. Just 10 minutes from the city centre and a short drive from the nice CĂ´te dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Azur airport, the Domaine de Gairaut faces south,

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overlooking the beautiful vista of the city below and its famous coastline. but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only the view that makes this residential development high-end as its facilities include concierge services, a 25m infinity pool, putting green for golfers, fitness and spa suites and a 2km nature route through Domaine de Gairautâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive parkland. A long-forgotten roman pathway lined with magnificent centuries-old cypress trees has been renovated to become the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;main axisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of the site. The modern one and two-storey apartments comprise between

100 and 200sqm of living space and all have access to either a spacious balcony or a terrace some of them also have private gardens presented in a sleek, minimalist design. The price per square meter is between 8,800 and 14,450â&#x201A;Ź. For example, a 183sqm apartment on the ground floor of the front row of houses with a 100sqm terrace and a garden of 278sqm costs 2,370,000â&#x201A;Ź.

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Investor Cogedim MĂŠditerranĂŠe is part of the Altarea Cogedim group. since the 1960s, the company has represented a great number of prestige properties at the best addresses in the CĂ´te d'Azur. For this latest project in nice, Cogedim promises modern living par excellence: the apartments and terraces offer the resident absolute privacy; the leisure facilities ensure a life of luxury. ď&#x201A;&#x2DC;

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The winter chill has arrived and there’s nothing riviera insider would love to do more than snuggle up in front of a blazing wood ﬁre with a glass of red wine and watch the snow falling on the world outside. We caught up with angie Delattre from the Prestige Department to ﬁnd out more about Michaël Zingraf Christie’s real estate’s winter wonderland properties across europe.

winTer wonDerlanD Luxury homes in the mountains By ELSA CARPENTER

ow long has Michaël Zingraf Christie’s Real Estate been involved with luxury, alpine properties? Always! We have seen a growing demand for mountain homes among our clientele in recent years and we have the network, the connections and the tools to supply them. satisfying our clients’ needs has always been a priority. Which resorts interest your clients the most? Across France, we have the opportunity to offer properties in a number of high quality ski resorts. The finest resorts are in the savoie and Haute savoie regions in particular and the most hotly requested are Courchevel, Megève, Méribel and Val d’Isère. These destinations have been highly prized for many years now. In recent years, having luxury hotels in the 5* bracket has begun to attract the less ‘prestigious’ resorts too, which has helped improve their status among the type of client with the means to invest. As such, these stations’ villages have benefited from a construction boom within the chalet indus-

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try and also for large-scale, top-of-the-range developments. Further afield, the famous swiss ski resorts such as Gstaad, st Moritz and Verbier and Austria’s Kitzbühel have experienced similar growth to their French counterparts and are also excellent skiing destinations. What type of property are your clients looking for? Our clients prefer new or recently renovated properties. It’s a question of ease and comfortability. They don’t want to manage works from a distance - 90% of our clients are from abroad. The perfect home would have a modern interior décor or contemporary style - the esprit de montagne is particularly sought-after in a mix of wood and metals - and distinguished and refined finishings and materials. It has to have everything: the address, the location, the view, the proximity to the slopes and shops, the surface area and the renown and the quality of the ski station and its pistes. An indoor swimming pool, a jacuzzi and a spa are favoured as well as a massage suite, nightclub, professional drying systems for ski equipment, a cinema room and fitness facilities. Michaël Zingraf Christie’s real Estate has the reputation of being a specialist in luxury and prestigious real estate… The minimum price of an ideal home begins at 5,000,000€. The location can be extremely important - an altitude above 1850m sea level is imperative in a place such as Courchevel. Interestingly, proximity to an airport isn’t really among the top criteria. Can it be difficult to find new properties? building in the mountains is a major challenge. It depends not only on the local urbanisation plan or Plan Local d’urbanisme, but also on land prices. resorts like Courchevel, Val d’Isère and Méribel face problems due to the lack of land and the small number of building plots available as well as the extremely high purchasing prices, which have scared away many developers and investors. Who are your clients and what are they looking to get out of a second (or third) home in the mountains? Our clientele is very varied and international. I would say it is a similar clientele to the Côte d’Azur. We have many clients who want to spend time away with their family. They want to ski and are seeking the best snowfall - a white paradise - but they also want to re-energise, to relax and to be revitalised by the freshness of the winter and the greenery of the summer. Among your international clientele, who prefers France, who likes Switzerland and who buys in Austria? If we are to think specifically about each country and the clients buying there, these would be the principal nationalities: in France, it is the French, the belgians, the british and Eastern Europeans. France remains the country with the finest skiing

price :  Top left photo 9,900,000€ courcHeVeL 1850  bottom left photo

16,800,000€ crans Montana  bottom right photo 11,000,000€ MeGèVe

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resorts and continues to attract those who love and are passionate about skiing. The large skiing areas like those found at the Trois Vallées, the Portes du soleil and Val d’Isère-Tignes have without doubt contributed to the success of these resorts [in terms of investment], but there are other factors too such as the Winter Olympic Games and the stunning scenery in places such as Mont blanc. In switzerland, it is the swiss and foreign residents of switzerland, the british, the French, the Italians, Eastern Europeans and the Monegasque. The infrastructure, the skiing, the beauty of the countryside, the ‘swiss’ atmosphere and lifestyle - and tax advantages - all make this a popular choice. English-speaking clients are particularly enthused with Austria because of the warm welcome and hospitality services as well as the fact that many Austrians speak a good level of English. The Dutch and Germans also buy here because of its closeness. It ranks as the third best nation in terms of ski culture, quality of service and, of course, snow! The legendary streif de Kitzbühel course is particularly appreciated by those who love to ski. Are you noticing any trends financially within the industry? Investment in the stock market has revealed its limits. Prices for properties are fair and there is a strong demand and profitability for renting out a large property seasonally in the mountains. real estate is a safe investment. 

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This exquisite jewel of modernism, perched on the cliﬀs above the twinkling Mediterranean at roquebruneCap-Martin, is a place of pilgrimage and mystery to anyone who is really serious about architecture and design. But the maison au bord de la mer is certainly not without controversy...

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e-1027 Architecture vivante By SARAH HYDE

onceived by Irish designer Eileen Gray and her lover, romanian architect Jean badovici, at the height of their creative and romantic passion, E-1027 was designed and built over three years with a joint ambition. Their dream was to make a significant contribution to the architectural debate of the time and as an ideal second home. Fortunately for the team that are currently restoring the property, it was successful in its first objective. In 1929, a whole issue of L’Architecture Vivante was dedicated to the property. The villa was, however, less lucky for the lovers and after the couple split in 1931, the house, Gray’s gift to her lover, remained in badovici’s hands until his death. It was not until Eileen Gray’s work was rediscovered in the 1970s and celebrated as one of the most important designers of the 20th century that interest in her mounted. This is one of three properties that Gray created and the only one open to the public. It is currently in the final stages of restoration: a process, like everything else about this small house, that has provoked great debate.

sPonsoreD BY

It was was designed for les amoureux and it is absolutely fascinating to see what designer and perfectionist Eileen Gray considered necessary for a home of this nature. It’s a good question and one perhaps that we have all considered. Outside of her decision to adhere to the very latest international architectural style, her brief included some universal elements. A fantastic location - in this instance with a glorious sea view - this house is aligned to the horizon and the sun, not to the land on which it sits. The view from the balcony is perfect. Efficiency in terms of light, shade and ventilation, the shutters and windows are ingenious and the folding windows are

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incredibly beautiful. It is clear that they were produced by the same mind that created the famous, endlessly repeating ‘brick’ screen. Privacy, a large veranda, a hammock, great storage… Eileen Gray went as far as to indicate where certain household objects must be stored in the pivoting drawers of the magicianlike cabinets produced for the house. These descriptions reduced the need for noise: if the contents were indicated, there was no need for questions. Other features: a fire, a state-of-the-art home entertainment system, large lounging day beds, separate bathrooms and room for only one guest and space for her beloved maid Louise in which she could be discretely and unobtrusively present. Tucked away off the beaten track, even the name of Main photo tHe Modernist Main House © Manuel Bougot Far left photo eiLeen Gray poured Her creatiVity into tHe artistic property © Manuel Bougot Left photo restoration Has been a LonG process necessitatinG tHe ModeLLinG of Gray’s oriGinaL furniture pieces © Manuel Bougot

E FOr EILEEn, 10 FOr THE J OF JEAn As THE 10TH LETTEr OF THE ALPHAbET, 2 FOr THE b OF bADOVICI AnD 7 FOr THE G OF GrAy

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the villa is a romantic code: E for Eileen, 10 for the J of Jean as the 10th letter of the alphabet, 2 for the b of badovici and 7 for the G of Gray. When E-1027 was completed in 1929, it used the most up-to-date building material of its time: concrete. 90 years later, maintaining this building fabric has been one of the greatest challenges in the restoration process. sadly, the early concrete has not lasted. This is such an important issue in early modernist buildings that The Getty Institute has awarded the property 200,000€ for research into concrete from the 1920s. The house is built into the hill side so water passed down through the land into the sea. This has made the current damp issue harder to control and the drainage of the whole site has been overhauled. This major work - to get the structure dry, stable and monitored for change - will be in place by spring 2017. Almost all of the contents of the villa have been sold at auction over the nine decades since Gray walked through its rooms and this poses another significant restoration problem. For those who know anything about her work, Gray furniture now commands astronomical prices at auction. The Dragon chairs that belonged to yves saint Laurent, the most expensive pieces of modern furniture ever sold, were somewhat exceptional in value at 16 million euros. Curiously yves saint Laurent, an early Gray collector, picked up the chairs for a few thousand in the 1970s. It is not unusual for individual pieces to go for several million. The furniture originally made for the house is now in major design museums around the world, the pieces are almost priceless and certainly not for sale. replicas are now being made from the originals. This work is being overseen by Cloé Pitiot, curator of the Eileen Gray exhibition at the Pompidou Centre during 201,3 and other experts on Eileen Gray and her period. Tim benton, Artur ruegg, renaud barrès and burkhardt rukschcio are also working on the project. The objective is to restore the house to how it was in 1929, changing as little as possible, with one exception and perhaps the most difficult of all. The Corbusier murals will be restored. To say there has been a lot of speculation about why Corbusier made the murals at E-1027 is an understatement. These paintings, which mark the surface of the house almost like primitive tattoos, were begun by Corbusier in 1938, long after Eileen Gray had left E-1027 to make her own house, Tempe a Paia. some say Corbusier began to realise what an absolute triumph the house was and that he was jealous. The fact that the famous architect constantly restored these works despite nature’s best efforts to remove them, shows how important he felt making his mark on this house was. That they are at odds with the original design is absolutely clear and it is rumoured that Gray thought of them as an act of vandalism. What is certain is that by repainting the murals, two of the greatest names of 20th century design are tied in perpetuity with or without Gray’s consent. 

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“mY DearesT ernesT…” Love letter from 1922 discovered at Wilson Plaza

wish You were here? Former Le Rouret home of Pink Floyd’s Rick Wright goes on sale he former villa of founding Pink Floyd member rick Wright has gone on sale for more than one million euros. The charming property, situated in the sleepy Alpes Maritimes town of Le rouret, is a testament to the region’s traditional aesthetics and design with beautiful orange-hued murals adorning the walls and ceilings, a boules court and lush vegetation as well as a spacious six-bedroom living space. During the heady years of touring and recording, rick would seek solace in his Provence haven lovingly named Maison d’Harmonie. Prior to rick’s purchase of the property in 1978, it was owned by advertising giant sir Frank Lowe who ‘reconfigured’ the old olive press during that decade and transformed it into a secluded and serene family home. It was Frank who added the frescos to the property yet he managed to convey an authenticity that is often lacking in similar restorations. right up until his death aged 65 in 2008, rick would retreat to his Le rouret hideaway as often as he could. In an interview with The sunday Times in 2014, his eldest daughter Gala told of

heartfelt love letter from a long forgotten Antoinette to her beloved Ernest has been unearthed during construction works at the luxury real estate development, Wilson Plaza, in nice. Perfectly preserved in an old biscuit tin, the handwritten note is dated 1922. now the developers have embarked on a quest to find descendants of the authoress and perhaps even of her lover. The construction team at Wilson Plaza discovered the rusted box in a false floor at the top of the building. As workers set about dismantling the area, the biscuit container fell to the ground and they instinctively decided to investigate further. upon opening the rust-mottled tin, the builders found a postcode-sized love letter written over 15 lines in a paling blue ink. “Ernest chéri…” writes the mysterious Antoinette. “Mon amour aimé, viens me secourir! Je te le demande de tout mon cœur. Je suis comme un corps sans âme parce que tu n'es pas là." “My dearest Ernest. My treasured love, come and free me! I beg you with all of my heart. I am a body with no soul because you are not with me.” The developers are now actively searching for any descendants of Antoinette and Ernest following a social media campaign and believe they may have some positive leads! 

how he was desperate to return to the home even in his final week, telling her sadly in the last days, “It doesn’t look as though I’m going back to France.” set over 1.3 acres of private land and enclosed on all sides for ultimate privacy and quiet, main section of the 220sqm home boasts three double bedroom suites - two of which enjoy access to a sun terrace - entrance hall, plentiful kitchen and preparation areas, and living and dining rooms with open fireplaces. In the wing of the house is found an additional two bedrooms, private terrace space and a kitchencum-living room. A large studio is located near the pool area and houses one further bedroom and kitchenette. both of these second areas have an independent access. Complimentary facilities include a wine cellar and fitness suites, each bedecked to modern standards. Outside, the property offers an idyllic setting to those wishing to escape the coast with countless well-matured plants, trees and fauna as well as two carp fish ponds brimming with water lillies. There is also a double garage. The property is currently advertised as a 1,395,000 euro buy. 

Booming ProPerTY marKeT Sales increase across the market, but prices remain stable By ELSA CARPENTER

n the first half of 2016, 22% more new homes were sold than during the same period of the previous year and 18% more were put on the market. This equates to almost 2,000 sales of new builds per week - an amount not seen since 2006. The speed of the process to buy also decreased from 11 months to nine. Prices for the properties in this bracket remained stable: offers were up 3% and sale prices down 2% per m². Previously lived in properties also experienced a surge in interest and purchase: 17% more were sold between January and June 2016 compared to the first half of 2015. Prices remain virtually identical at -1%, however, despite the increase in buying activity. The rise in both of these areas has been explained by the Chambre de Commerce et

d’Industrie nice Côte d’Azur as being down to the increase in the number of authorisations for new builds and construction and renovation works. It’s interesting to note that there has been a ‘return to the use of stone in building’ according to Jean-Marie Ebel, the president of the Observatoire Immobilier d’Habitat. The number of properties classed as second or holiday residences is notably high in the Alpes-Maritimes compared to the rest of France, with 24% of homes falling into this category. 68% of properties in the department are primary residences; 8% of homes stand empty. With regards to the luxury sector, there has been a revival of interest according to agents. Perhaps surprising is the number of people with French nationality purchasing properties in this area. 

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Designing Dreams “FOr THE AMOurEux OF bALLET, IT Is An OPPOrTunITy TO PAss FrOM OnE ExQuIsITE PrODuCTIOn TO THE nExT WITH OnE LOnGInG sIGH AnD GAsP OF DELIGHT AFTEr AnOTHEr.”

Main photo a costuMe desiGn for narcisse in 1911 © Musée d’art moderne et contemporain de la Ville de Strasbourg/Photo: Service photographique interne des musées de la Ville de Strasbourg Top left photo ideas for sHéHéraZade © National Gallery of Australia, Canberra Top right photo nick Mauss draws inspiration froM tHe past works of Léon bakst © Nick Mauss

A celebration of Léon Bakst By SARAH HYDE

his winter, the nouveau Musée national de Monaco is celebrating the 150-year anniversary of the birth of Léon bakst with a stunning exhibition of some of his greatest work with the ballet russe de Monte Carlo. An artist in his own right, bakst was the scenographer of this celebrated ballet company, which spent much of its time in the Principality of Monaco. bakst's work is so spellbinding beautiful that it transcends time. Its charm reaches out with an elegant outstretched arm across almost a hundred years from a pre-digital age and draws you, seductively, into the rich fantasy that has over taken Villa sauber. The story of Léon bakst, nijinksy, serge Diagliev and the ballet russe is the stuff of legends and this is a breathtaking reminder of that achievement. Once in a while, an artistic movement captures the collective imagination of a generation and their work seems to resonate with universal subconscious of the time. Founded in 1937, this was a generation that needed to escape and by gazing at a glowing stage, these ballets successfully transported their audience to a world

that was hyper beautiful, beyond reality: a sensual dreamscape where popular mythology came alive like a Watteuish fete gallant and reality was momentarily obliterated. To modern eyes, it is staggering to see how casual the coming together was for these great artists - nijinksy, Debussy, bakst, Michael Fakine, rimsky Korsakov, Jean Cocteau, Isadora Duncan, Ida rubinstein and Igor stravinsky - and from the vantage point of the future, success seems inevitable. One production followed the next and shéhérazade, Le Dieu bleu, narcisse, Daphnis et Chloé, Ivan le Terrible and La belle au bois Dormant are each explored chronologically with drawings, costumes and artefacts in the exhibition. For the amoureux of ballet, it is an opportunity to pass from one exquisite production to the next with one longing sigh and gasp of delight after another. A vital twist in this exhibition is the response of contemporary artist nick Mauss (born in the us in 1980) to the work of Léon bakst. Mauss has been focussing on ballet for many years and before coming to Monaco in 2016, he served a fellowship at the Cen-

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La Belle at the Salle des Princes By ELSA CARPENTER

he artistic highlight of the festive season in Monaco will no doubt be Jean-Christophe Maillot’s ‘aesthetically-pleasing and ferocious psychoanalytical interpretation’ of the sleeping beauty fairytale. Maillot and his troupe of dancers seek to unearth the memories, dreams and fears of childhood in this rites of passage piece. As ever, Maillot has turned the ‘sugarcoated’ Disney version that many will most easily recognise on its head to create a deeply powerful and moving performance. “The lesser-known second half of Perrault’s story is brought to the fore,” explains Jessica Pinal of the ballets de Monte Carlo, “in which sleeping beauty awakens from her slumber and her marriage to the prince leads on to further exploits. The second part of the fairytale is dark and terrifying: now Queen, the Princess and her children are threatened by her Wicked stepmother, the Ogress Maleficent.” La belle will be on stage of the salle des Princes in the Grimaldi Forum from 28th December to 3rd January. Performances begin at 8pm and last one hour 50 minutes with an interval. Tickets start at 21€ for adults. For the final two nights of La belle, pre-talks will be hosted by dance critic Laura Capelle from the Financial Times and the ballets de Monte Carlo’s own Jean-Christophe Maillot. Entry is free upon presentation of a performance ticket and the talks start at 6.45pm. 

ter for ballet and the Arts, new york university. Mauss has been invited by nMnM to work directly with the curators - Celia bernasconi and Professor John E. bowlt - and the archive material from the Opera de Monte Carlo. He has imagined a scenography for the exhibition and responded directly to the materials of the exhibition after months of work in the archives of the museum and of Monaco. His work installed in Villa sauber links the sections of the exhibition together: the pieces he has created involve arranging costumes, costume designs and set maquettes, and exaggerating original ballet programs, fabric designs and illustrations to create a fully orchestrated confrontation with bakst's visual vocabulary. I asked Celia bernasconi, the curator, if nick had tried the costumes on, she laughed and said, “no, but I think he would have liked to!” Mauss has also edited the catalogue for the exhibition, responding to the essays that the curators commissioned to art and ballet historians and this will be published by the fashionable publishing house Mousse in Milan in December and will be available at the museum The exhibition continues until 15th January. 

Top photo jean-cHristopHe MaiLLot turns tHe suGarcoated disney Version on its Head © Marie-Laure Briane

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BeaT The winTer Blues it might not be beach and bikini weather anymore or at least for most - but that hasn’t stopped riviera insider heading outdoors to enjoy all that the Côte d’azur has to oﬀer during the winter months. By ELSA CARPENTER

right photo a rocky patH winds aLMost tHe entirety of tHe cap d’aiL Far right photo sospeL is just one of tHe Many ruraL and aLMost untoucHed ViLLaGes driVers wiLL discoVer on tHe route napoLéon

whiTe ouT Early snow a good sign for local skiers september was a warm month - record temperatures in the 30s were recorded in the Var - but that didn’t stop the first few snowflakes of the season falling on the mountains of the southern Alps. by wet October, snowfall became a more regular occurrence with 35cm recorded in one night at Isola 2000! Meteorologists are expecting a colder winter than last year’s so we’re keeping our fingers crossed at riviera Insider for a season of great skiing Following early snowfall in the mountains, ski resorts in the south of France will be among some of the first to open in the country this winter. Auron and Isola 2000 will both open their slopes to skiers on 3rd December - providing the snow keeps coming. Each resort is within one and a half hours of nice and together they provide over 250km of pistes. On a good day, those at the summit of Isola 2000 - 2610m above sea level - are able to see the blue of the Mediterranean and the coastline of the French riviera. The best of both worlds! Day passes are 34€ in each location and weekly passes can be purchased for 159.20€. Variety is key for fellow Mercantour national Park resort Valberg, which will open on 17th December. Valberg sits a little lower than Auron and Isola 2000 at 2100m above sea level, but what it doesn’t have in altitude, it certainly has in attractions. From family tracks to a professional-standard snowpark, air bag landings, cross-country skiing, and 90km of pistes, there is plenty going on at Valberg. Day passes are 31.50€ and a weekly adults pass is 161.70€. Found near to the source of the Verdon river in the Var are the resorts of Val d’Allos, which have both scheduled their openings for 10th December. The skiable domaines are connected at the base of the valley by the Val d’Allos village, which houses plenty to keep family and friends occupied après-ski and after hours. Day passes to the Le seignus slopes are 27.50€ for adults and 35.50€ for La Foux. Another popular destination is Gréolières les neiges, which opens on 17th December. Just 20km from the coast as a bird flies, Gréolières is situated in the pays grassois, but it is still quite a drive through the winding valleys and dramatic mountain scenery to the resort (around one hour). While it can’t compete with the other skiing destinations of the region in terms of pistes and altitude, its 1800m summit does receive good snowfall in the colder winter months and its 30km of slopes provide more than enough entertainment at this relaxed, family-friendly resort. A

week-day pass for adults is 20€ and 24€ at weekends. A weekly pass is 121€. Over the border in Italy, popular ski station Limone (a two-hour drive from nice) is one of the earliest openers in the area with a date of 3rd December. To ski in Limone is to ski the entire riserva bianca in the Vermenagna valley of Piedmont. 80km of slopes and pistes for skiers of all ability interwind in the valley that also includes the 3,500m² Limonetto snowpark. Day passes for adults are 34€, a weekly pass 191€.

arounD The caP D’anTiBes in 80 minuTes Rediscovering its natural beauty Its address book includes the names of russian billionaires and oligarchs, European royalty and Hollywood celebrities. High society events, luxurious homes, and sprawling estates are all part of the makeup of the modern day Cap d’Antibes. but it doesn’t take much to turn the clock back and re-discover the pure and natural history of this picturesque presqu’île so look past the vanity, glamour and classic cars, and you’ll see a whole new side to the beautiful Cap d’Antibes. From the private beach just off boulevard de la Garoupe, the coastal pathway peels off to the right and winds around coastline before opening up onto a small bit of headland. From there, the walk is pretty tight and a decent pair of shoes is definitely advised. Cut into the rock is a narrow path, with small staircases and plateaux as you travel along. The views truly are exceptional and it is easy to see why this part of the Mediterranean continues to be such a draw for tourists of all budgets, with steer drops into glass-like water, rocky outcrops, the scent of salt on the air and silence all around apart from the waves. The ‘Tour de Cap’ can be taken as fast or as slow as you like: the signs suggest takes between one and two hours to complete. We’d recommend getting the Ligne 2 Eden roc bus from Antibes town centre or driving in if you can as the walk to get to Plage de la Garoupe alone can take up to an hour.

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rouTe naPoléon A classic Sunday drive sometimes, a drive through beauty scenery and with fresh alpine air is just what is needed to lift the spirits. Whether with a partner or going it alone, the atmospheric route napoléon is one of the most impressive scenic drives in the region. Although it wasn’t officially inaugurated in 1932, the 400km road follows the same historic route that Emperor napoléon took in 1815 in the run-up to the Hundred Days war that famously ended at Waterloo. From his embarkment at Golfe Juan up into the hills of Grasse and saint Vallier de Thiey, napoléon and his army made their way to Castellane and onwards to Digne, sisteron and finally Grenoble. scenery, mountain passes and tranquility are in abundance - be sure to take your camera! The endlessly smooth roads and cambered corners too help make this an incredibly enjoyable ride even if you’re not in the driver’s seat.

EXPECT THE FINEST QUALITY

domaine-rabiega.com 735 Chemin St Joseph 83300 Draguignan 04.94.68.44.22 info@rabiega.com

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JarDin exoTiQue De monaco An eden between sky and sea Monaco made its name as a destination for the rich and famous keen to soak up the winter sun. The plants of the Jardin Exotique de Monaco may not be escaping colder climates like the high profile tourists of the 19th and 20th centuries - having been transported to the principality from exotic destinations such as the southwestern us, Mexico, Central and south America, south

Africa, Eastern Arabia and the Arabian Peninsula - but they have thrived in the principality since 1933 and are acclimatised to the region’s microclimate. Almost all plants in the public botanical gardens are succulents and, thanks to their international provenance, each display unique characteristics from their corner of the world. Different plants bloom and flower throughout the year, making this a wonderful place to explore by winter, spring, summer and autumn. Tickets are 7.20€ for adults and also include entrance to the Observatory Cave and the Prehistoric Anthropology Museum.

eYes of an eagle Exploring from the skies If there’s one thing that will always make the Côte d’Azur so special in the hearts of many, it’s the region’s spectacular setting between the Mediterranean and the mountains. To look south, there’s the scintillating waters of the sea; to the west, our beaches and coastal cities; to the north, the dramatic rocky face of the lower Alpes; and to the east, the dazzling Principality of Monaco and Italian riviera of Liguria. now, with Eagleeyedrones, you can take it all in from above as you embark on your very own personal private tour. spiral skywards from the picturesque town Tourrettes-sur-Loup to aerially explore the countryside and coastline of the French riviera with the comfort of knowing your feet are safely on the ground. The guys at Eagleyedrones will fit you with a virtual helmet, teach you how to control the camera and manage the take-off for you before it’s time to take the helm. Flight duration is between five and 20 minutes and prices start at 10€ for a flight (5€ extra allows you to take home a video version of your experience).

Left photo a drone piLot prepares for take-off Top photo tHe Grotto at tHe jardin eXotique de Monaco bottom photo escape to an eXotic destination between tHe sky and tHe sea

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hiKe arounD caP ferraT From east to west If saint Tropez is the ‘jewel of the riviera’, then the peninsula of saint Jean Cap Ferrat is certainly the pearl. between the picturesque former fishing villages of beaulieu sur Mer and Villefranche sur Mer is the some of the world’s most expensive real estate. There’s also a flora and fauna-lined headland with a wonderful coastal walk and arguably the most dramatic views of the Côte d’Azur. starting at the pretty harbour town of saint Jean, the trail leads up Avenue Jean Mermoz to private beach club Paloma, which is a hotbed for celebrity spotting during the summer months. Head down onto the pebbled beach and take the windy concrete path around the Promenade des Fossettes, which offers southern views of the Mediterranean. The walk heads around to canvas two secretive bays - often empty of beachgoers year-round - passes beneath the iconic Grand-Hôtel du Cap and Villa santo sospir, and onto the western fringes of the peninsula. The lovely, family-friendly beach of Plage de Passable marks the end of the coastal route and if you take the stairs up towards the road you will find a shortcut through to the tourist centre and town. roughly five kilometres in length, the walk typically takes between two and three hours, although that doesn’t include any swimming stops, which you are sure to find irresistible, particularly on the southern tip and Villefranche side at Plage de Passable. It is a relatively easy walk, but good footwear is recommended.

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T e e i n g

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GoLf corresponDenT raimunD TheobaLD

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f all the many clubs and resorts on the French riviera, I have always wanted to play at the Golf d’Opio Valbonne course. I was also looking forward to visiting one of the oldest golfing destinations on the Côte d’Azur - it celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. The beautiful sunrise that rose that morning was the first sign that this would be an excellent day of golf. We drove through the hills to the course, about 12 kilometres as the crow flies to the coast, and turned into the driveway of Château de la bégude only about 100 metres shy of entering the town of Valbonne. I immediately fell in love with the place. The generous, shady and tree-covered car park

provides space for at least 120 cars and is housed, along with the course, administrative buildings, clubhouse and restaurant, on the grounds of the château. We signed in and decided, as a precaution, to hire a voiturette, but all of the course is within walking distance. Our expectations regarding the state of the grass wasn’t high – there had been barely any rain here in the three months prior to our visit – but we were pleasantly surprised. Apart from a few bare patches on some of the fringes, the course was well-maintained throughout, from the wide fairways to the lush rough and the perfectly preened greens. In the four hours of play, we follow the natural trail through

beautiful countryside dotted with crystal-clear steams, mature trees and manicured hedges: it could not be more varied. Particularly impressive are the stone walls, which appear to have stood for centuries and feature on many of the holes. The ideal conditions for golfing are set, now we just needed to provide a game good enough to suit the setting. Complexity and difficulty are aplenty. We begin with par four at hole one, which demands complete accuracy in our swing. The par five tracks are short, but with very narrow passages that require a shorter club. Our biggest mistake occurs at hole 11, a par three on a 154 metre long fairway with a width of not more than 20 metres. On the left, forests and bushes, and on the right, water hazards before the elevated green with deep bunker. We have to remind ourselves not to panic or take risks on the shot. On the final hole, a par three 100m, overlooking the cosy terrace of the clubhouse, we have the opportunity to demonstrate our golfing skills in the best light. All in all, it was a fantastic day of golfing in a place we couldn’t recommend highly enough! 

Born in 1956 and a passionate golfer since 1992, raimund is a lover of France in all its forms: the people, the food and wine, the culture, and most importantly Provence and Côte d'azur.

GoLf D’opio vaLbonne Route de Roquefort-les-Pins 06650 Opio www.opengolfclub.com

The course

18 holes Par 72 Lengths of the various discounts: 5698 m white 5384 m yellow 4963 m blue 4540 m red Green fee: 84€ per day Special rates four hours before sunset: 60€ voiturette: 35€ Driving range, putting and chipping greens Clubhouse with sanitary facilities, guest shower, restaurant and pro shop Open year round

And you ? SORTIE PÉNÉTRANTE MOUANS-SARTOUX

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04 93 90 01 27

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fernanDo PensaTo From Provence to Puglia and back again By ELSA CARPENTER

as i head to the Yacht Club de Monaco for a lunch with gourmet olive oil producer Fernando Pensato, i’m reminded of a story i was told when i ﬁrst arrived in the Côte d’azur. it wasn’t so long ago - just 100 years or so - when where now stand glass-fronted skyscrapers and luxury hotels, there were thriving olive groves and ancient stone terraces…

hile Monaco has moved on from its humble, earthy roots, Fernando Pensato has made a return to them. He now harvests the ancestral soil of his Italian family in Puglia, southern Italy, in his quest to produce the finest oils for the finest establishments in Monaco and across the world. “Producing olive oil started as something of a hobby for my parents,” Fernando explains. “My father is from Puglia, my mother from Hamburg. They met when my mother was working as an editor at Petra in the 1970s (a women’s magazine in Germany) and was putting together a piece on my father’s work. At the time, he was known as the King of Cork for his original cork wedges. They fell in love, but my father didn’t like the idea of living in Germany and

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WhaT To Look for When buyinG oLive oiL Provenance, quality and prosperity 1. Check the origin: if an oil is produced in italy, France or Spain, a label will proudly state it. if the label says that the oil has been produced using olives from the eU, it means just that. However, the olives could be from Greece, Portugal, Spain and even, sometimes, Morocco all in one bottle. Some industrially produced oils will also state olives from inside and outside of the eU, meaning that it is blend of internationally sourced olives.

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2. a good olive oil has a two-year lifespan. always check the use by date on the label and deduct two years to see when the oil was bottled. a tip from Fernando is to consume the oil within six months to a year from when it was bottled and not during the year of the use by date! 3. Quality is a never ending scale, but Fernando recommends plumping for a ﬁrst cold pressed, unﬁltered and monocultivar olive oil.

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my mother refused to move to Italy so they came to Monaco. It had the port and the sea like in Hamburg, but the climate of the south.” Fernando’s Italian great grandfather had been relatively wealthy thanks to agricultural enterprise, but he had died very young and his land was sold off parcel by parcel. This meant his grandfather - and later his father - had very little, almost nothing, to their names and had to start again from zero. “My father had huge successes in the fashion industry in the 1970s with his wedges,” says Fernando, who grew up in Monaco, “and it was with this success he decided to buy back the ancestral land of his family in southern Italy. This is where we grow the olives.” Today there is 500 hectares of adjoining land, which his father continues to invest in and add to: “He wants it all to be connected, not one piece here and another there. We have 10,000 olive trees that produce 120,000 litres each year, an olive mill, a vineyard, wheat production… We also have solar panels, a new investment in renewable energy. My father could have put his money into anything, but this was about creating work… and he [like Fernando himself] is deeply connected to the land, the earth.” until Fernando took over the business, the olive oil produced on the family estate was only sold locally and even then, barely at all. Fernando was, however, always passionate about the unique Pensato product and would take small quantities away with him to boarding school in switzerland. His international school friends were impressed with the oil and Fernando’s entrepreneurial spirit began to flourish. He knew his traditional oil was better than the one from the supermarket that was used in the school kitchens so took a sample to his headmaster tor try. In a sign of things to come and Fernando’s natural charisma, his headmaster decided to replace his industrially produced oil with Fernando’s authentic Italian option. “you can’t compare a bicycle with a helicopter,” Fernando laughs, “one flies and the other doesn’t.” After he completed his university degree in the u.s., Fernando’s parents decided to set him up with an import-export company based out of Monaco. At 23, he was at the helm of his own business: “There I was in a brand new office with a telephone that wasn’t ringing. no one knew the name or the number to call.” so Fernando decided to go to the Monte-Carlo Gastronomie fair. It was a success and that one event began opening the doors to the world of haute cuisine. by 2004, the following year, his oils were on the tables of the Café de Paris in Monaco. “stefano brancato [director of the Café de Paris] trusted me,” Fernando says. “no one would decide overnight to give up a supplier and take on a new one, especially not a company run by a 20something guy who might let you down, but he did. He was one of my first clients. At the time I was a one-man show and I’d do all of the deliveries myself, in person.” before long, word had spread and Fernando no longer

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had to look for new clients - he had his pick. “I am very conscious of who I take on as a client,” he explains, “they must be someone who appreciates the oil for what it is; a 100% authentic, single estate, first cold pressed, monocultivar olive oil.” Despite the prestige - both in flavour and in quality of Fernando Pensato oil, Fernando has always been keen to ask a fair price compared to other ‘less respectful’ oils. “They should be 50% cheaper,” he says, “or my oil should be double the price, but I don’t want clients to choose my oil based on that. I want them to love it for what it is. I want them to enjoy it and not worry about how much they are using.” For Fernando, his philosophy is - and always will be passion over price. This is a ‘lifetime project’. From the start, ensuring that his clients are happy has been important to Fernando: “We are where we are because of them.” He listens to them, takes their advice and is unafraid of trying out their ideas. One such source of inspiration is close friend Arnaud Donckele, the Michelin-starred head chef of La résidence de la Pinède in saint Tropez. They first met in 2005 when Fernando called him in the middle of the summer season to see if he was interested in taking on his oil. “It’s something you shouldn’t do,” Fernando says, reminiscing. “Arnaud isn’t the kind of chef who likes to show off, he’s in the kitchen making sure that the quality remains high. When it’s high season, he’s locked away and doesn’t come out.” but nonetheless, Fernando talked him into trying the oil - it was already being used at La réserve de beaulieu, which had the same owner. Arnaud was the

Photo tHe traditionaL Granite stone MiLLs used at tHe estate HaVe bareLy cHanGed in 200 years

I am very conscious of who I take on as a client... They must be someone who appreciates the oil for what it is.

man who requested a lemon and later mandarin olive oil: “some chefs would say ‘I can do that in my own kitchen’ and I’d reply ‘yes, I can make a lemon infused oil in my kitchen’, but our oil is different. We grind the olive with the citrus fruit at the same time.” Fernando continued the creative process inspired by Arnaud and produced a bergamot oil that would go on to become a best seller. His three-Michelin starred friend - one of the youngest in France to achieve the status - also requested a saffron white balsamic vinegar that Fernando produced using saffron from Iran. It is a truly remarkable product. Any investments he makes in his company are centred around bettering what he offers whether that be service, quality or range of products. Fernando and his father have also bought a balsamic production in the product’s homeland of Modena that was on the verge of closing amid conflict between a brother and sister. The brother remains a part of the production process - “you can’t just start making balsamic vinegar, it takes 50 to 100 years!” The company also produces a line of pasta using wheat from the family estate and recently it expanded into prosecco, which we try over lunch at the same location in which Fernando launched the line earlier this year. This latter innovation was thanks, in part, to the general manager of Hôtel byblos in saint Tropez. “There’s a story behind most of our products,” he says. It’s true, even for the label of his signature oils: a belle époque-style illustration that, if you look closely, features a shoe in homage to his parents’ fashion credentials (his mother was the first to design a shoe with a circular heel). There’s a story surrounding the olives that Fernando uses in his oils too. Federico II di svevia (Frederick II), the Holy roman Emperor who lived between 1194 and 1250, was a great lover of all things ‘France’. Interestingly, the local dialect in Puglia is closer to French than it is to Italian, for example, the Italian word for tomato is pomodoro, but the local dialect uses tumate - far closer to the French tomate. King Federico transported the olive trees growing in Provence to Puglia, where they took root and evolved into the peranzane olive. This is the olive you will find in all Fernando Pensato oils and all are grown on the family estate. He produces a green oil, which uses olives picked from the trees rather than a ‘black’ oil that waits for the olives to fall to the ground. “Green oil has to be pressed as soon as possible - we press ours between three and six hours after harvesting - otherwise it will become a black, fruity oil. The only difference between the process we use today and that used 200 years ago is that we power our traditional granite stone mill by electricity rather than farm animals!” We leave Fernando to prepare for the annual olive harvest in Puglia - later than usual this year! Fernando Pensato oils can be purchased online at pensato.com. 

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la langousTe Nice’s hotly tipped new restaurant By ELSA CARPENTER

riginally from the southwest of France, Agen to be exact, chef Patrice Lafon has enjoyed an exemplary career. From his apprenticeship under two Michelin starred-Christian Parra at La Galupe, where he learnt the importance of generosity, colour and charisma, to his roles in Paris and later the Côte d’Azur, Patrice has earned his cuisine capabilities in many of the most highly respected fine dining endroits in the country. The La Langouste restaurant itself is a unique entity in nice, a place of true art de vivre with an exquisite garden of 170m² right in the heart of the city’s Musiciens quartier. A refined décor and consciously luxurious aesthetic run throughout the setting, which can cater for 70 people inside and 90 in the garden and on the terrace. La Langouste’s cuisine is decidedly Mediterranean – a penchant of Patrice – but is far from repetitious as many restaurants of this style can be. Patrice is emblematic of the modern, innovative

chef and his plats are playfully colourful and beautifully executed. Langoustine are, of course, central to the menu and guests can select their crustacean directly from the large tank at the entrance of the restaurant. Each day of the week (noon to 2.30pm apart from sunday), La Langouste proposes a lunch menu for 24€ and a two-course menu for 19€. by night, dining is à la carte and mains begin at 19€, rising to 175€ for a langouste royale to be shared between two (dinner service is available from Tuesday to saturday, 7pm to 10.30pm). since 2000, this rugby-loving chef has been based in the French riviera, notably at the Hôtel Majestic’s La Villa des Lys in Cannes, Le Gavroche in Mouans-sartous (his first head chef appointment), La Voile d’Azur in Villefranche, the former Karément at Monaco’s Grimaldi Forum, and La Vigne à Table in the Var. Following a short stint at the Mediterranean oasis of La Marée in Moscow in 2013, Patrice returned to the sunshine and opened a restaurant of the same place and concept at Port Palace in Monaco. His creativity - and willingness to flit between the styles of gastronomy and ‘brasserie’ – shone again at the Dolce Frégate Provence ressort in st Cyr sur Mer: this would be his final post before launching nice’s most hotly tipped new restaurant. 

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FAbrICE DIDIEr APPOInTED CHEF PATIssIEr At the Negresco Hotel

trawberries, chocolate, honey and agrume citrus fruits… In creating his symphony of desserts, these ingredients are Fabrice Didier’s main chords. The accomplished pâtissier is taking the reins of the negresco’s dessert menu after two years beneath exiting Fabien Cocheteux. since obtaining his esteemed Mention Complémentaire Cuisinier in desserts a decade ago, the young chef has worked at the Hôtel du Cap Eden roc in the French riviera and also in the two Michelin starred Parisian restaurant Grand Véfour by Guy Martin. The next few months will see Fabrice integrate his personal style and flair into the menus of this highly respected Promenade des Anglais as his continues to develop his savoir-faire in the world of desserts. 

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throughout the event. The festival is open every saturday and sunday throughout november from 9am to 8pm. Tickets can be bought in advance online for 3€.

salon De la gasTronomie

fooD fesTivals By ELSA CARPENTER

4TH TO 7TH nOVEMbEr palm beach, cannes refined taste buds will love this unique concept of the salon Gastronoma: a blend of star chef ateliers and exhibitions from the fine food industry, demonstrations and gala invitations, degustations and shopping. Entry is 5€ with a tasting glass (1€ will be donated to a charitable cause) or 10€ with access to the numerous fringe events and tastings. Tickets to the VIP, 10-course gala evening on 6th november are also available for 159€.

salon Du sucre eT Du chocolaT 5TH & 6TH nOVEMbEr fort carré, antibes Who could resist this sweetly gratifying dessert date? Organised by the local Chambre of Maîtres Pâtissiers, Antibes’ sugar and chocolate festival opens the door to the traditional and contemporary art of patisserie with tastings and demonstrations by leading pastry chefs of the Alpes-Maritimes. Visitors to the event can learn secrets of the trade in one-off classes, sample goods produced by the patisserie shops of the region and peruse the stands of the artisans.

salon Du Palais gourmanD

From the ﬁnest, seasonal produce to demonstrations and classes with the region’s best chefs, our slice of the Mediterranean becomes a haven for gourmets and gourmands at this time of year. Whether you want to discover the luxury of the white alba truﬄe or learn alongside the grandest names in the haute cuisine industry, there’s a food festival for you this winter.

fiera Del TarTufo unTIL 27TH nOVEMbEr cortile della Maddalena, alba The Alba white truffle world market is famous globally and the month-long event is a truly unique experience. Every day, thousands of freshly picked truffles make their way down from the Piedmontese hills of Langhe, roero and Monferrato to be sold at the public market by the trifolao. There is also an area within the market reserved for degustations where you can experience the authentic flavours of the region’s cheeses, meats, fresh pasta, products containing nocciole Piemonte IGP (Piedmontese hazelnuts) and Castagne di Cuneo IGP (Cuneo chestnuts), special flours and mushrooms - truffles too, of course! Wines from Langhe and roero will feature prominently at this year’s festival and the Italian sommelier Association (AIs) will be hosting a range of tasting sessions

10TH TO 14TH nOVEMbEr Hippodrome, cagnes-sur-Mer Embark on a gourmet Tour de France through the regional specialities and delicacies of the country: from the mountains to the sea and the fields to the lakes with foie gras, artisanal cheese and dairy products, charcuterie, wines and champagnes, and fresh seafood including oysters from the Mediterranean. Meilleur sommelier d’Europe Franck Thomas will also be attending this year’s event and will be guiding guests through the stages of wine selection, appreciation and pairing. Entry is 8€ and payable at the entrance.

salon saveurs eT Terroirs 18TH TO 20TH nOVEMbEr centre expo congrès, Mandelieu-La napoule under the patronage of acclaimed local chef stéphane raimbault of the L’Oasis

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Michelin-starred restaurant in Cannes, Mandelieu-La napoule’s annual food festival celebrates the best of produce from neighbouring towns and regions. Throughout the three-day event, raimbault is expected to award a number of the exhibitors and their goods with his signature Coupes de Cœur status. A ceremony is planned for the final day as are many other events and competitions for visitors - if you have children who love helping in the kitchen, saturday will host a kids cooking atelier! Guests can also browse the many gourmet stalls and dine at the venue’s pop-up restaurants: bistro de l’Oasis by raimbault and his team, and restaurant Aveyronnais with its famous aligot (a whipped cheese and potato dish). Other on-site eateries include La Corse Gourmande and its regional delicacies from Corsica and the champagne and oysters Jour de Fête bar. Entry is 5€.

feTe De la chaTaigne 19TH nOVEMbEr town centre, cagnes-sur-Mer The chestnut, the emblem of the

imminent winter season and all things Christmas, is the heart and soul of Cagnessur-Mer’s traditional food and culture festival. Over one tonne of chestnuts will be freshly grilled in Place de Gaulles from midday, just head to the stands for a taste! From 10am until 6pm, folk dancing, music and cuisine will also warm friends and families as the weather begins to cool. At 11am, a parade of farm animals will stomp down the boulevard Maréchal Juin and guide guests to the delicious array of handmade and organic produce, including honey, jam and preserves, oils, fresh produce of the season, wheels of cheese, cold cuts and roast pork. Entry is free and there is public parking available throughout the town.

monTe-carlo gasTronomie 25TH TO 28TH nOVEMbEr chapiteau de l'espace fontvieille, Monaco Few gastronomy events can rival the prestige and pedigree of the Monte-Carlo Gastronomie festival. Its impressive list of partners includes the Italian and French

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Maîtres d'Hôtel associations, the Monegasque sommeliers association and the Monegasque Hotel Industry association. The annual concept is also well-respected among many of the great chefs of our region, notably: the Hotel Hermitage’s head chef Joel Garault, the Hotel de Paris’ salle Empire chefs Franck Cerutti and Gian Luca strobino, head chef of the Café de Paris brasserie Jean Claude brugel, Joël robuchon’s head chef at the Hotel Métropole stéphane Coco, the Fairmont’s Philippe Joannes, and Emmanuel Lehrer of Le Mas de Pierre in st-Paul-de-Vence. On display at the event will be a carefully curated selection of the finest products from France, Italy and across Europe: wines, champagne, cognac, armagnac and liqueur from producers’ estates, salmon, foie gras, seafood, truffles, caviar, chocolates, sweets, cheeses, meats, cured meats, organic, jams and other culinary specialties…The tableware, kitchenware and gifts also make this unique show an excellent place to visit while working through your Christmas lists. Expect demonstrations and degustations galore! Entry is 5€. 

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Jacques Gantié’s rEsTAurAnT rECOMMAnDAnTIOns jacques Gantié is the author of the unique regional restaurant guide: Guide Gantié. it is available in french in hard copy and electronically in english and contains hundreds of great insider tips for dining in the south of france.

PiaZZa DUOMO

Enrico Crippa is the flagship chef for Piedmont. For over a decade, this three Michelin-starred chef has been curating his creative cuisine within one of the finest regions for fresh produce in all of Italy and working directly with grande famille de vin Cerrito to build a simply stunning restaurant and menu to match. Fassona meat, Tonda Gentile hazelnuts, chestnuts, mushrooms, white truffle of Alba, capon (cockerel meat), rabbit, butter from fresh cream, potatoes from the Alta Langa, the cardoon from nizza Monferrato, Jerusalem artichokes, white turnips… Almost everything used in the kitchen of Piazza Duomo comes from a radius of no more than 50 kilometres. “The local products are what guide my hand,” says Enrico. “Langa beef, for example, being lean and not marbled, is perfect for hand-cut carne cruda (raw meat). These are the same principles that have always inspired the work of a great trattoria.” Passion for gastronomy and excellent service shines

throughout this well-established and highly respected address, which also offers the La Piola bistro. The menus change frequently with the seasons, but Enrico has his formula: “When the dish is finished, it should always leave you with the desire to eat a little more. I believe that only with yearning can there be real pleasure: there is always a small gap that cannot be filled, as in love. Our menu always starts with raw or pickled vegetables. I often love putting something in the menu that, at first glance, seems out of place, like a summer dish in the winter menu: for example, two tablespoons of cold beet soup, reminiscent of tomato water. I like invoking a memory in the guest, bringing him or her back to summers passed, and also creating a tension within, a desire for the next summer season." Wine also has pride of place here and the carte des vins is managed by on-site sommelier Mauro Mattei: grands crus from Ceretto and a collection of the finest barolo wines. The lunch menu costs 90€ during the week, the truffle menu is 160€. Dining à la carte is between 130 and 200€. Casual dining at La Piola: 25€ for a main and a glass of wine. The restaurant is open from 12.30pm to 2.00pm and from 7.30pm to 10.00pm Tuesday to saturday. Piazza Duomo is also open for sunday lunches until 27th november, but closed entirely throughout December. Piazza Risorgimento, 4 Vicolo dell'Arco 12051 - Alba (Cn) Tel. +39 0173 366167 info@piazzaduomoalba.it

firsT worlD congress for gasTronomY World Chef Summit aking place at the T Grimaldi Forum by 27th to 29th november, the World Chef summit, a new and unique concept by Informa events, aims to bring together the present and future leaders of gastronomy worldwide. All areas of the CaféHotel-restaurant industry are to be represented: Michelin-starred and international chefs; sommeliers; maîtres d’hôtels; hospitalises schools such as Ecole Ferrandi, Alain Ducasse Education and Lycée Technique et Hôtelier de Monaco; and specialist manufacturers and professionals. Following the welcome cocktail evening on 27th november, two days of workshops covering topics from new trends in gastronomy to the use of wild plants, innovative concepts of tomorrow, the relationship between kitchen and service, and the evolvement of social media will be held. A blend of technology, environmental awareness, technic, relationships,

Boutique hotel from the early Belle Époque era (1890), close to the Promenade des Anglais and Nice’s pedestrian zone Classic à la française style. Elegant Salon with fireplace Pretty garden Parking available on request

business models and well-being should keep the great, creative minds attending busy! Two nights of exclusive dining opportunities are also part of the programme. 15 Chics & Chefs dinners will be organised in various prestigious restaurants around the Principality of Monaco, including the Hôtel Hermitage, the Métropole and the Fairmont. Menus will be performed by local chefs and those dining will be joined by members of the event’s staggering International Committee - the likes of Michel bras, Christian Faure, Jérôme de Oliveira and Guillaume Gomez. Dinners cost 150€, with part of the sale going towards the AMADE association. A visitor pass to the exhibitions and workshops for the three days costs 60€, a professional pass with access to all conferences, workshops and exhibitions costs 180€. reservations can be made online. chefsworldsummit.com

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The rise of Pre-owneD couTure Trends in the French Riviera and Monaco By ELSA CARPENTER

econdhand and luxury aren’t, perhaps, words that sound as though they go together, but Europe’s leading online boutique for the purchase of pre-owned couture and designer goods is proving quite the opposite. Vestiaire Collective now holds more than five million members across the continent and its popularity is steadily growing - as many as 100,000 new buyers are flocking to its site each month. Of the 25,000 secondhand pieces of apparel and accessories that pass beneath the eyes head of quality control sophie Hersan each week, seven in 10 make the final cut - an impressive 3,000 ‘new’ items every day. Through the study of its embellished shopping baskets throughout 2015, the e-boutique

has revealed the trends of the stylish in both the south of France and the Principality of Monaco. It would seem that Coco Chanel’s love affair with the region is everlasting. In both regions, Chanel is the most popular designer brand with one accessory standing out; the Timeless quilted shoulder bag sold more in the south than another place in France. It would appear shoe aficionados here have similar tastes too; Valentino’s rockstud is the highest selling shoe in Monaco and in Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. According to the statistics, both areas also share a penchant for French fashion maison Hermès, although Monaco’s buying power is a little stronger than its French neighbour. The most expensive secondhand bag bought in Monaco

was the Hermès birkin, which sold for 31,752 euros, while another of the brand’s models, the patent Mini Kelly Cut clutch, was bought by a customer in the French riviera for 20,930 euros!

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Monegasque buyers were, in general, willing to spend more an average of 600 euros in each shopping basket - compared to those in PACA, who typically spent 300 to 350 euros. 

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The two women could not be more different: Hind rafiq Hariri, a Lebanese billionaire and daughter of the former Lebanese prime minister rafic Hariri who was assassinated in 2005; and the other, Mylène Salvador, a French artisan awarded the lifelong title of Maître d’art for her extraordinary craftsmanship in the ancient art of lace-making. Together they realised the dream of the one thousand and one nights.

Dreams of golDen lace Art and jewellery at HRH By PETRA HALL

Far right top photo Hind rafiq Hariri: obsessed by a passion to create syMboLic jeweLLery Far right bottom photo MyLène saLVador, courted as a queen bottom photo MakinG tHis eXtraordinary cuff froM tHe once upon a dreaM coLLection takes 265 workinG Hours

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odest, almost as if she feels out of place, a lady with lively eyes is in the midst of a room full of elegant guests at the yacht Club de Monaco. she has been invited personally to the event by HrH founder Hind rafiq Hariri. HrH stands for Her royal Highness, but its also the initials of the maison’s beautiful creator. The collection is made up of wonderful and unique jewels presented in an Arabian nights style so different from anything else that sparkles behind the glass counters of the principality. Treasures, centuries-long tradition and history, hidden memories, dreams and strong symbols all breathe together here. One particularly striking masterpiece is a large cuff made of the finest gold threads with singularlyapplied gemstones. It is here that Mylène comes into play, the woman we met when we first entered the

room. Without her knowledge and expertise, these precious pieces would simply not exist. Her story begins in Morocco, where she spent her childhood and youth, and where her parents worked as teachers. As a young student, Mylène settled in normandy and one day, while she was visiting the baron-Gérard de bayeux museum, she discovered a longforgotten lace-making technique from the 17th century. Lace was originally imported into France from Italy and Flanders, and it wasn’t until 1665 that it was made on French soil. by the 18th century, around 160,000 lacemakers were employed in the industry, but the industrial revolution would eventually cause its abandonment. Mylène decided to breathe new life into this art and thus forever save a piece of cultural heritage: “I couldn’t find any descriptions so I tried to understand the technique under a magnifying glass.”

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In 1994, Mylène was awarded the prestigious status of Maître d’art, a title given by the French ministry of culture to those who have preserved and passed on traditional arts and crafts to the next generation. To date, 107 people have been given this award. Artists, jewellers and fashion designers were quickly attracted to Mylène and her talents. balmain, Dior, Hermès… The great masters of France were keen to work with her. so does she now live in Paris? “no,” she smiles, amused. “I do not leave normandy, they all come to me.” she is courted like a queen who has a secret only she knows. And how did her collaboration with Hind and HrH come about? “We met through a Parisian jeweller and understood each other straight away. There are no coincidences, only encounters,” she says. Hind, the youngest child of the self-made man rafic Hariri, grew up surrounded by immeasurable wealth and saw her mother every day in exquisite jewellery. To Hind’s mother, the jewels were not a status symbol. Instead, they held a more symbolic value. It is a philosophy shared today in Hind. The idea of the cuff, in particular, was born in a moment in which she was holding on to her last thread of hope. It was a golden thread. A thread that wouldn’t break and that is so supple that it nuzzles against the skin like a silken lace. Hind had searched all over the world for someone with the expertise to create the cuff and finally found it in the hands of Mylène - in France! “When we met for the first time, I bought Hind a piece of lace from napoleon III, which she immediately put on her arm,” says Mylène. It took 12 years to finally find the right material consistency. Today, HrH is the only jeweller to offer this artistic lace. “If Hind had not been as obsessed as me and if there hadn’t been such a strong connection between us, I would probably have abandoned the project. Can you imagine, producing one cuff takes 265 working hours - a luxury in the 21st century! This ancient technique is full of poetry and resembles a graceful dance.” Hind and Mylène: they separate worlds and yet they are bound by the unwavering will to cross and conquer all boundaries to achieve their dreams. Profit is not what drives Hind. she is powered by sending a message of hope and inspiring happiness and optimism. 

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ToD’s Timeless icons for SS 16/17

la moDe Riviera Insider presents the newest boutiques and latest collections from fashion addresses across the Côte d’Azur

If fashion is ever-changing and evolving, Tod’s SS 16/17 collection is harnessing the timeless, staple items of the modern age. Prestige materials such as fine leathers and snakeskin combine with the essential cuts of a contemporary woman’s wardrobe in a metropolitan, day-to-day style. Leather and the emblematic biker jacket is at the heart of Tod’s creations from a mango python piece to a classic model, an ultraslim design and even a full-length biker that thinks it’s a trench coat. Nappa leather is paired against suede, threading is used to highlight the silhouette and femininity is ‘lasered onto dresses light as mesh’.  traverse de la Garonne, saint tropez

ermenegilDo zegna Mens AW 16/17 collection Cooler temperatures have no call for a compromise on style, especially not within the newly released Ermenegildo Zegna autumn-winter collection for men. Its complementary clash of smart casual apparel and luxury permeates throughout the range from the 100% Trofeo Country Waxed Wool jackets to the ‘ultimate business shirt’ sewn from Egyptian cotton and the rare and precious Mako Giza woven in ultra-fine fibre with a one yarn count. The Trofeo Country Waxed Wool jacket line is the result of an innovative, modern take on Trofeo, the most iconic fabric from Ermenegildo Zegna. Available in a range of styles and dyes - “The classic field jacket to the younger bomber and stylish parka…” - it is a clever, trans-seasonal piece with a detachable and interchangeable down-filled warmer. The 100fili Ermenegildo Zegna shirt - named so for the 100 threads per centimetres of its premium fabric - has a distinct ‘back-totailoring’ feel thanks to its classic cut and fit. It has a sophisticated look of some 20 styles ranging from patterned greys to striped pinks and light blues, and classic pure white. Each shirt is made from the same exceptionally silky material: fine Egyptian cotton blended with Mako Giza. Other products in the range include a quirky, denim-Trofeo wool hybrid suit featuring a light Western style, a sharp navy and microchecked Manhattan suit and a luxury coat featuring Vicuna, mink and exotic leather.  17 boulevard de la croisette, cannes

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wolforD Second nature Luxe upholstery brand Wolfold has opened a new store in Monaco’s Galerie du Métropole. Manager of the boutique Laurent Altare believes the international brand will appeal greatly to the Monaco clientele, saying, “Sophistication, style and comfort are the hallmarks of the brand that offers collections of lingerie, homewear, tights and bodywear that combine luxury and everyday needs.”  Galerie du Métropole, Monaco

raschini Men’s outﬁtters launch in Monte Carlo The acclaimed Italian fashion house Raschini has opened a branch in Monte-Carlo (Park Palace). Russian CEO Sergej Vikulin Jurjewitsch, who is also responsible for business in his home country, wants to appeal to the Monegasque or business-oriented business man with a unique service tailored to the local clientele.  Galerie du park palace, Monaco

furla Rebellious in spirit, cosmopolitan in style Among the throngs of all the parties and galas of the Christmas season, a good piece of arm candy is what everyone needs this winter. From the statement-making Metropolis Cenerentola cross body bag with its rich lava tones and bold metallic embellishments to the corporate office party-friendly Valentina satchel in a sophisticated combination of putty, cobalt blue and black, Furla’s brand new winter collection has something for not only every outfit, but also every occasion. The marque’s collection is undeniably luxe – butter-soft leathers and dazzling metal accents – but there is also a very playful side to its designs. Fabrics include strip-dyed sheepskin, vibrant goatskin in onxy and ultramarine, and ‘rubino’ calfskin while the designs feature kaleidoscopic patterns, intricate laser cutting and 3D effects. Furla describes the winter collection as the ‘embodiment of the rebellious spirit typical of the music scene, from rock to pop’. Shoulder straps for a number of the bags - the season’s protagonists - would look just as good around the neck of a guitarist. The brand also produces a range of footwear, belts, jewellery, textiles and key rings, all in the same design vein as its central bag collection.  2 avenue de Verdun, nice

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BregueT Back to the 1950s The Breguet boutique in Cannes has unveiled the re-look Type XX. Originally designed for the 1950s French naval air army, the classic time-piece has returned in a civilian version and with four individual variants. The Type XXI 3817 offers much of the same characteristics as the original design. Cased in steel with a sapphire-crystal case back, the face features a bi-directional rotating bezel, a slate grey dial, rounded lugs, luminescent arabic numerals, hands and dots, and some 26 jewels. It is water-resistant to 100 metres and uses a selfwinding chronograph movement. The strap is soft, antique brown calfskin. Price on request.  26 boulevard de la croisette, cannes

chaumeT New collection Jewellery creator Chaumet, established since 1780, is presenting its two, brand-new collections at its luxury boutique on Cannes’ La Croisette. Whether in the form of a necklace, bracelet, earrings, watch or ring, the 11-part Joséphine - Ronde de Nuit collection is embodied by a signature pear shape. The elegant and modern series Liens Lumière can be worn from day to night and combines mother of pearl with classic diamonds, which makes each piece unique (pictured below).  9 boulevard de la croisette, cannes

freD The year of 8°0 Jeweller to the stars Fred Samuel crossed an ocean to return to his motherland from South America, where he was born. Once in Paris and raising a family, his love and passion for sailing was passed on to his two young sons. The elder of which would go on to become the inspiration behind a number of Fred’s nautical collections, such as Force 10 that features a braided marine cable with a shackle to secure it. The newly released 8°0 collection follows in a similar, but more stylised theme. The design - a leather cabled bracelet with knotted buckle - is a celebration of the brand’s 80th anniversary and a continuation of the marque’s maritime heritage. White gold, rose gold or yellow gold, the buckled can come in its simple metallic form or half paved in white diamonds (18) or fully encrusted (50). Clients have an extensive choice of colourful or natural leather cabling, with other rope-style options and a chain also available.  21 boulevard de la croisette, cannes

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BlancPain TiffanY’s 130 years Tiffany’s is celebrating the legacy and heritage of its iconic Tiffany Setting. It has been called the world’s favourite engagement, the rings of rings, the most beautiful of rings… and the Tiffany Setting engagement ring has been gracing the fingers of women since it was first launched 130 years ago. “When our founder Charles Tiffany introduced the Tiffany® Setting in 1886, he gave us not only a symbol of true love, but also an enduring reminder of our diamond heritage and reputation for craftsmanship,” said Caroline Naggiar, chief marketing officer of Tiffany & Co. Prices for the ring, which is available in platinum, yellow gold and rose gold, start at 1,500€ for a 0.25-carat diamond and reach 55,000€ for a 2.5-carat diamond.  6 avenue de Verdun, nice

zanneTTi Ovum Octopus Italian manufacturer Zannetti is a master in hand-making opulent and luxury watches in small and limited series. Their latest creation in the Ovum Octopus, an extravagant watch with external bezel made from Tahitian black mother of pearl, an 18-carat white gold internal bezel set with 32 white diamonds and four rubies. The beautiful octopus is silver set with blue sapphires and diamonds. It features a blue agate dial and skeletonised, automatic Swiss movement. Price 11,000 euros.  zannetti.it

Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Blancpain Ocean Commitment II The Fifty Fathoms collection by Blancpain is a homage to the creator’s enduring passion for the underwater world that was initiated in the 1950s with the launch of the modern diver’s first watch by the brand. The recently launched Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Blancpain Ocean Commitment II features the first satin-brushed, blue ceramic casing to be see from Blancpain and is equipped with an F385 caliber mechanism beating at 36,000 vibrations an hour (5 Hz): ideal frequency for a chronograph as it enables each second to be divided into intervals of a tenth of a second. For each watch sold in the 250-piece collection, 1,000€ will be donated towards scientific research and exploration. Since 2014, proceeds from this fund has allowed for Blancpain to co-found 10 major scientific expeditions and contribute towards the protection of an additional three million square kilometres of marine areas.  27 boulevard de la croisette, cannes

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chrisTmas on The côTe D’azur Markets, music and mulled wine Christmas is just around the corner and villages, towns and cities across the Côte d’Azur are getting into the seasonal spirit with a whole host of events and markets throughout the festive period. As Riviera Insider went to print in late October, many of the exact dates were yet to be announced, but here’s a snapshot of places to visit during November and December! caBris

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Christmas market 11th December In the town centre

Christmas musical: Panique à Fantasialand for children 4th December, 4pm salle Iris barry, Espace Culturel

cagnes-sur-mer Christmas animations 10th December to 1st January Place de Gaulle Carousel, music and a market (until 24th December)

Draguignan Christmas market 10th to 24th December, all day boulevard Georges Clemenceau

gaTTiÈres Christmas market 17th and 18th December, 9am to 6pm In the town centre A visit from santa Claus, entertainment and food

grasse Christmas market 3rd and 4th December, 9am to 8pm (6pm on Sunday)

Photo saint tropeZ by winter is a truLy MaGicaL eXperience for aLL tHe faMiLy witH an ice skatinG rick and perforMances as weLL as tHe traditionaL arriVaL of fatHer cHristMas by boat

lucéram Christmas market 11th and 18th December In the town centre

manDelieu la naPoule Christmas concert 10th December, 3pm église notre Dame du Liban Cloistral and choir music

children, gift ideas, delicacies and performances

sainTe maxime Father Christmas visit 23rd to 25th December, 4.30pm Théâtre de la Mer Children can meet Father Christmas and have photos taken at the grotto

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Christmas village 2nd December to 2nd January, all day Port Hercules regional specialties, ice skating rink and colourful animations for the whole family

Christmas market 17th December, 9am to 4pm In the town centre

mouans-sarToux santon market 11th November to 24th December, 2pm to 6pm Médiathèque La strada The oldest and most respected santon figurine market in the region

nice Christmas village 3rd December to 1st January Place Masséna and Jardin Albert 1er Christmas huts, entertainment for

sainT TroPez Christmas village 2nd December to 2nd January In the town centre Christmas lights, the unconventional arrival of Father Christmas from the sea, ice skating, Christmas concerts, crib and nativity scene, chocolate fair and much more

sosPel Christmas market 11th December, all day Place Garibaldi Local producers, farmers and artisan display their festive, seasonal wares

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Exhibitions until 27th november alba Fiera del Tartufo read more on pages 62-63. until 31st December mougins Ici & maintenant! Over 70 photos, videos, installations, graphics, paintings and sculptures of contemporary artists in 13 different locations in the municipality. mougins.fr until 15th January nice Rio à Paris An exhibition on the Olympic Games. museedusport.fr until 31st January menton UMAM - 70 artistes On the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the founding of the union Méditerranéenne d'Art Moderne (uMAM), 70 international artists exhibit their works at the Galerie d'Art Contemporain. Tuesday to saturday from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. 5€. menton.fr until 29th March Toulon La Paléontologie dans le Var Exhibition of dinosaurs, giant birds and giant tortoises who once lived in the Var at the Musée d'Histoire naturelle de Toulon et du Var. Tuesdays to sundays from 9am to 6pm. museum-toulonvar.fr

Events 4th november monaco Bryn Terfel Welsh singer bryn Terfel is in concert at the salle Garnier in the Opera de Monte Carlo. 8pm. opera.mc 4th to 6th november nice C’est pas classique! Three free nights of more than 50 concerts and 500 artists! A concert in homage to David bowie directed by Paul-Emmanuel Thomas with electrical quintet at the Palais Acropolis will take place on 5th november. cpasclassique-cg06.fr

4th to 7th november cannes Salon Gastronoma read more on pages 62-63. 5th november nice World kick-boxing championship After London, Tokyo, Los Angeles, new york, Dubaï, Amsterdam and Paris, the Glory World series is coming to the Palais nikaia. 5.45pm. Adult tickets start at 28€. nikaia.fr 5th & 6th november antibes Salon du sucre et du chocolat read more on pages 62-63. 5th & 6th november alba Club Vivanova An incredible Piedmont white truffle and barolo weekend with overnight accommodation in Langhe. Includes a tour of the region with English-speaking guide, barolo wine tasting lunch, gourmet dinner and excursion to the Alba truffle market. 360€ per person, fully inclusive. clubvivanova.com 5th to 13th november nice Salon Déco Habitat All things home and decoration at this annual exhibition in the niceAcropolis Palais des Expositions. Discover the latest trends in areas such as furniture, renovations, kitchens and bathrooms, and construction. Open from 10am to 7pm. 5€. decohabitatnice.fr 6th november cannes Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes A concert by Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes at the Eglise notreDame de bon Voyage: Orgues de novembre by Henri Pourtau. 4pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 8th november cannes Orchestre de Cannes Featuring Jean-Emmanuel Caron, François Adloff and Lionel Fraschini at the Théâtre Alexandre III. 7pm. Adult tickets 15€. orchestre-cannes.com 10th november saint Jean cap ferrat Club Vivanova Enjoy a gourmet wine masterclass

with bradley Mitton and partners at the Four seasons’ Grand-Hotêl du Cap Ferrat. 180€ per person, fully inclusive. clubvivanova.com 10th to 13th saint Tropez Madraco Cup An exciting autumn sailing regatta in front of the famous harbour town. saintropeztourisme.com 10th to 14th november cagnes sur mer Salon du Palais Gourmand read more on pages 62-63. 10th to 22nd november la gaude Jazz sous les Bigaradiers A musical festival for jazz and the blues that celebrates the best of local and international talent. assowhat.free.fr 11th & 12th november monaco Monte-Carlo Boxing Bonanza Together the Casino de MonteCarlo and Matchroom boxing present one incredible night of boxing, featuring british world champions at the salle des Etoiles in the sporting Monte-Carlo. On 11th november, the official weighin ceremony will take place at the entrance of the casino at 12pm and is free to attend. starting at 8pm on 12th november is the main event with four champion challengers seeking the title. Adult tickets start at 100€. ticketoffice@sbm.mc 12th november monaco Monte-Carlo Classic Rock: The Musical box Music in all its forms at The Musical box at the salle Garnier (Opera de Monte Carlo). Founded in 1993, this Canadian group is the king of all tribute bands. Expect some big crowd pleasers and Genesis. 8.30pm Adult tickets start at 70€. montecarlolive.com cannes NRJ Music Awards strictly by invitation only - although the public can watch the ceremony unfold on big TV screens in front of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès - is the nrJ Music Awards. From rock to rap, pop to electro, the awards nights will be attended by a whole host of international stars and celebrities. Get voting! 8.55pm. nrjmusicawards.nrj.fr

13th november various Nice-Cannes marathon starting from the Promenade des Anglais, 24,000 runners will take off along the coastline for this 42.2km event. If you’re not sweating it out on the road, be aware that there may be road closures and delays. marathon06.com 13th november monaco Nabucco opera Discover the nabucco opera at the Grimaldi Forum. 3pm. opera.mc 13th november cannes Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes A concert by Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes at the Eglise notreDame de bon Voyage: L’Heure d’Orgue by Laurent-Cyprien Giraud. 4pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 15th november nice Swan Lake ballet swan Lake - or Le Lac des Cygnes - is to be held at the Palais des Congrès nice-Acropolis (salle Apollon) for a performance by the saint-Pétersbourg ballet Théâtre. 8pm. sean-acropolis.com 16th november monaco Nabucco opera Discover the nabucco opera at the Grimaldi Forum. 8pm. opera.mc 16th to 18th november cannes MAPIC An international networking and business event for real estate professionals is taking place at the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. mapic.com 17th & 18th november monaco King Crimson Progressive rock group King Crimson will be headlining on the salle Garnier (Opera de Monte Carlo) for two nights of impressive concerts. 8pm. Adult tickets start at 80€. montecarlolive.com 17th to 27th various Festival Manca A series of classical concerts in locations across the Côte d’Azur biot, Carros, Menton, nice and

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Vallauris - make up this festival. Organised by the CIrM and Centre national de Création Musicale. Tickets range from 5 to 18€. cirm-manca.org 18th to 20th november Mandelieu-La napoule salon saveurs et Terroirs Read more on pages 62-63. 19th november cagnes sur mer Fête de la Châtaigne read more on pages 62-63. 19th november monaco Nabucco opera nabucco opera at the Grimaldi Forum by invitation from the Palace only. 8pm. opera.mc 19th november Juan les Pins Jammin’Juan The Fred d'Oelsnitz trio, Festen and De beren Gieren will play at the Jammin’Juan festival at the Palais des Congrès. 8.30pm. Adult tickets from 15€. jazzajuan.com 19th to 27th november menton Photomenton A unique event for passionate photographers and keen amateurs: 110 photographs from across the south of France, Italy and Monaco will be displayed at the Palais de l’Europe. Tickets from 3€. photomenton.com 20th november cannes Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes A concert by Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes at the Eglise notreDame de bon Voyage: L’Heure d’Orgue by Charles-Henri Maulini. 4pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org

25th to 28th november monaco Monte-Carlo Gastronomie read more on pages 62-63. 27th november cannes Irish Celtic Generations Tradition, heritage and legends come alive at this touching Irish event. Taking place at the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. 2pm. Adult tickets start at 36€. palaisdesfestivals.com 27th november cannes Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes A concert by Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes at the Eglise notreDame de bon Voyage: L’Heure d’Orgue by Thomas Kientz. 4pm. Free. orgues-cannes.org 27th november cannes Orchestre de Cannes Pianist David Kadouch plays Liszt and Quentin Hindley directs at the Théâtre Croisette. 4.30pm. Adult tickets start at 23€. orchestre-cannes.com 1st December monaco Club Vivanova Who could resist an Asian fusion gourmet wine dinner at the Fairmont’s nobu with Club Vivanova? clubvivanova.com 2nd December cannes Orchestre de Cannes Aurelien Azan-Zielinski and Philippe Voituron direct the Orchestre de Percussions de la Côte d’Azur at the Auditorium des Arlcus. 8.30pm. Free. orchestre-cannes.com

23rd november monaco Club Vivanova Head to the Wine Palace Monte Carlo at the yacht Club de Monaco for a Turkish Delights wine degustation. clubvivanova.com

3rd December nice Aladin musical A tale inspired by the Arabian nights, singers, dancers and actors relive Aladin with fun for the whole family at the Palais nikaia. Adult tickets start at 29€. aladin-musical.fr

24th november Biot Folia screening The screening of short film Folia (2014) accompanied by double bass and electronic music at the Musée national Fernand Léger. 10€. biot.fr

8th & 9th December oliver Twist A ballet performance of Charles Dickens’ Oliver Twist at the Théâtre de Grasse featuring performances by the national Conservatory of Prague and the Jeune ballet Méditerranéen. Adult tickets start at 24€.

theatredegrasse.com 9th December cannes Orchestre de Cannes Dimitri naïditch directs Mozart in Jazz at the Théâtre Croisette. 8.30pm. Adult tickets start at 23€. orchestre-cannes.com 11th December monaco Maria Stuarda An opera at the Auditorium rainier III. 3pm. opera-mc 12th December monaco Jonas Kaufmann A recital at the Auditorium rainier III. 8pm. opera-mc 11th December monaco Maria Stuarda An opera at the Auditorium rainier III. 8pm. opera-mc 17th December Juan les Pins Jammin’Juan David Amar One Million Faces, Franck Woeste Pocket rhapsody and the Thoma Galliano Quartet will play at the Jammin’Juan festival at the Palais des Congrès. 8.30pm. Adult tickets from 15€. jazzajuan.com 18th December cannes Orchestre de Cannes Aurelien Azan-Zielinski directs sympho new Percussions at the Théâtre Debussy. 4.30pm. Adult tickets start at 23€. orchestre-cannes.com 28th December to 3rd January monaco La Belle The fairytale of sleeping beauty is masterfully turned on its head by Jean-Christophe Maillot. Music by Piotr Ilitch Tchaïkovski and scenography by Ernest PignonErnest. Taking place at the salle des Princes in the Grimaldi Forum. Adult tickets from 36€. balletsdemontecarlo.com 29th December nice Casse-Noisette de Tchaïkovsky The popular Christmastime nutcracker returns to the stage at the Palais des Congrès niceAcropolis (salle Apollon) for a

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performance by the national ballet and Orchestra of russia. 8pm. sean-acropolis.com 7th January grasse Truffle market Enjoy the quintessential taste of the season at the bastide saint Antoine. grasse.fr 16th to 22nd January monaco Rallye Automobile Monte-Carlo One of the great calendar events in Monaco: the 85th rallye Automobile Monte-Carlo. Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco. acm.mc 19th January monaco Club Vivanova Head to the Wine Palace Monte Carlo at the yacht Club de Monaco for a new year champagne reception. clubvivanova.com 19th to 29th January monaco Festival International du Cirque de Monte-Carlo The big Top, the animals, the performers, the music… It’s an atmosphere like nowhere else at the Espace Fontvieille as the Festival International du Cirque de Monte-Carlo returns for its 41st year. Adult tickets from 30€. montecarlofestivals.com 20th to 27th January monaco Manon Immerse yourself in the world of Manon, a production by the Opéra de Lausane and featuring the voices the Opéra de Monte-Carlo and musicians from the Orchestre Philharmonique de Monte-Carlo. Taking place at the salle Garnier (Opera de Monte Carlo) on 20th, 22nd, 25th and 27th. 8pm each night excluding 22nd (3pm). Adult tickets start at 40€. opera.mc 21st & 22nd January nice Marriage & wedding exhibition Two days of all things matrimony at the Palais des Congrès niceAcropolis. sean-acropolis.com

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in Their memorY Nice remembers its fallen as France and the world watches on. By PETRA HALL Photos PRÉSIDENCE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE © Blevennec

eople sighed as they looked at the sky on the morning of 15th October. After the severe storm of the day before, a day on which the 86 victims of the terrorist attack of 14th July were to be commemorated, the sun shone again from the deep blue sky. Many thousands turned out for the memorial event including hundreds of those injured in the tragic event. French President François Hollande, Prince Albert II of Monaco and almost all of France’s leading politicians were in attendance only Manuel Valls was missing. Perhaps he was unwilling to face the crowds that had booed him in the days following the attack.

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nice-esT anD la TurBie Tunnel inauguraTeD f you’re heading towards Italy on the A8 motorway, you’ll be taking a new route created by the borneromaine tunnel above the La Trinité area. Due to a shift in the stability of the rock, the decision was made to build the 60,000,000 euro tunnel

back in spring 2014. The tunnel measures 775 metres in length, 12 metres wide to facilitate three lanes of traffic, 5 metres high and an average gradient of 5.2%. road users heading in the opposite direction will continue to use the original route. 

alBerT ii Tunnel officiallY oPeneD in monaco A 106.5 million euro project Photo cindy peLLeGrini froM tHe association proMenade des anGLais Made a MoVinG speecH to tHe crowd

The deeply moving memorial ceremony on Castle Hill began at 11am with the arrival of the president, military honours and the national anthem of La Marseillaise. This was followed by the reading of a text by Cindy Pellegrini (pictured above), a member of the Association Promenade des Anges. The young woman, who was incredibly composed throughout, lost six family members in the terror attack of this summer. she spoke slowly - very slowly - as if to make sure that every single word reached the audience. After a performance by singer Julien Clerc, high school students from the Lycée Masséna placed 86 white roses in a stone fountain. The name of the victims and their age were called for each rose. The youngest was two. There followed a silence, interrupted by sobs from the crowd. After François Hollande’s speech, the children's choir of the Opera nice Côte d'Azur sang the national anthem and the emotionally charged event ended at 12pm with the city's characteristic gunshot. The president then received all the family members affected by the attack. Journalists were not allowed at this private moment. 

n mid-september, Prince Albert II inspected the technical and security systems of the new Albert II tunnel that links boulevard du Jardin Exotique and boulevard rainier III. During the visit, the tunnel was also blessed by Monaco’s archbishop bernard bars. It is hoped that the new tunnel will reduce the daily traffic dramas of the principality during peak hours. It is more

than 1,700 metres long and 6.10 metres wide with headroom of 4.50 metres and a gradient of 6%. More than 200 people were involved in the construction, which required the excavation of nearly 400,000 tonnes of rock and the use of 250,000 tonnes of concrete – five times the quantity used to build the yacht Club de Monaco! The total cost of the project was 106,500,000 euros. 

safety on the Promenade des anglais

lans to improve security and the safety of pedestrians and motorists on the Promenade des Anglais were signed off in september 2015, but have been drastically increased since the bastille Day attack: nice’s most famous landmark is set to be readapted with the latest public safety equipment and technology. Work has already begun on the section between rue

Meyerbeer and boulevard Gambetta, but the stretch right up until Ponchettes and Quai des Etats-unis will also receive attention following summer 2017. Among the plans: retractable bollards to protect pedestrians and for use in public events, steel barriers to better separate road users and those on the footpaths, improved lighting and seating, extended and remodelled cycle paths and updated footpaths. 

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raising moneY anD sPiriTs Antibes Lifeboat’s Christmas carol concert By SARAH HYDE

he riviera International singers are returning to the stage for the sixth time this December in support of the wonderful work of the Antibes Lifeboat. Communal carols will be blended into a programme of pieces by the choir for the charity event and while most of the congregational carols will be sung in English (supported by the choir), some include verses in French and German. It will certainly keep the congregation on its toes and give a truly international feel to the night. In fact, the master conductor is German yann nolle and president of the choir Astrid najar is Dutch. Expats from all backgrounds are welcomed to attend as well as people from the local community. There will be food and mulled wine provided by bluewater after the concert. Jon usher from the Antibes

Lifeboat tells me: “It took a while for the French curate to understand what figgy pudding was and why he was supposed to bring it, but he seems to now accept that this is just the ancient tradition of alms-giving. It is really magical to hear traditional carols ring out into the December night from the packed cathedral.” What makes this event particularly special is that the service takes place in a cathedral that has overlooked the port and been a place of prayer for the safety of sailors and fishermen for centuries. If you get a chance to have a look in at the nativity of the cathedral, you’ll see how this traditional display has been reinterpreted around fishing and is a charming reminder of the vital role that the sea and boats play to all our lives on the Côte d’Azur.

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The proceeds of the ticket sales are given entirely to the Antibes Lifeboat. Each year, the event raises an average of 2,000€ for the cause. The Antibes Lifeboat service is part of société nationale de sauvetage en Mer, which run six rescue boats between Menton to Théoule-sur-Mer. The Antibes boat is the biggest (and busiest) one. On average, there are 25 vital call outs a year although shortly after our meeting, Jon is called away on a double rescue mission in which ‘five very frightened and seasick people

were saved’. The service is run by unpaid volunteers whilst the boats are paid for by donations. If you are interested in helping or getting involved, please contact the Antibes Lifeboat via their Facebook page: @antibeslifeboat. This year’s annual event will be held at Antibes’ Cathédrale notre Dame de l’Immaculée Conception, in the heart of the old town, from 8pm on Friday 2nd December. The cathedral doors will open at 7.30pm and entrance is 10€ for adults and 5€ for children and concessions. 

angloinfo.fren nchriviera @Ai_Riviera AngloInfo

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sarah hYDe Riviera Insider’s art and culture correspondent

publishing director sEbAsTIEn FrAIssE s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr Managing director JAMEs rOLLAnD j.rolland@riviera-press.fr

the years before, during and just after WWII - Picasso first came here in 1924 and through the war years, a lot of important artists spent time here. I’ve been based in Antibes for one year now and am just about to have my second winter.

Since the start of 2016, regular readers will have noticed a new name among our pages: Sarah Hyde. Born in Lancashire, UK, Sarah has an M.Phil from Christie’s Education and has been working in the art world since 2002. Now turned freelance writer and journalist, the last 12 months have seen Sarah share her personal insight and opinion on artists such as Le Corbusier, Duane Hansen, Christo, Léon Bakst and Eileen Gray with our readers. Here we get to know Sarah better over a chocolat chaud in Antibes’ old town.

hat first brought you to w the French Riviera? I visited the south of France when I was a little girl with my family. I always wanted to come back to saint Paul de Vence and I later spent time here with my art dealer boyfriend. I find the Maeght Foundation so fascinating I was considering doing a Ph.D about it! What is it about the Riviera that makes it special to you? The history of art and art dealing in the region has always interested me. It is very rich, particularly in

What is it about Antibes in particular that enchants you? The countryside is very beautiful. I always feel that if the area around Antibes hadn’t been so overly developed, it could have been a national park. The history of the Cap d’Antibes too is fascinating. Antibes lends itself to abstraction the blocky colour of the different buildings and their shutters - like nicolas de staël’s art. The light is wonderful here. Antibes has that special way of making you feel as if you are living in a small village, but one that has all the advantages of a big town or city such as the airport. I find it’s a good place for me to be based as I’m often away for work in London, Paris, Milan, Venice and Monaco. How has the region inspired your work? Well, I started writing in 2013 when I was living in Paris to get a better understanding of what was going on in the contemporary art market. As well as working as a freelance art and culture writer for riviera Insider, I also work for publications like Artnet and sotheby’s. For me, there are so many local art stories and international events to pique my interest in the French riviera. It’s also a good location from where I can travel to other high points in the art calendar last week I was in London, this week it’s Paris. I’m hoping to get involved with the Venice biennale later this year too. I would love to curate a collateral event there one day! From the vantage point of the south of France, I have an opportunity to get a panoramic view of the art world and trends and developments across Europe (especially in Italy). When I was based in London and Paris, it’s all too easy to get sucked in and just see what is in front of you. There are some very, very wellestablished artists here and their

dealers have associations with the Côte d’Azur so I try to learn more about what they have achieved and how they did it. I look at their success and try to take that into the future, like everyone else I guess. I also love the freedom of not being in an office and being able to follow my interests! What are your favourite winter pastimes? saint Paul de Vence, but all year round! It’s a magical place. I also enjoy eating out at the Tabac in Marché Provençal in Antibes with the locals: steak frites! I do yoga almost every day with Caroline rossy at shamastiti House of yoga and I’m an outdoor swimmer too so one of my absolute favourite things is to torture myself by getting in the sea! 

editor in chief PETrA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr editor ELsA CArPEnTEr e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr creative director VInCEnT ArTus vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr Advertising & Pr KArInE bALAGny Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 29 marketing@riviera-press.fr Advertising & Pr DOMInIQuE FrEuLOn Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 d.freulon@riviera-press.fr Advertising & Pr AurELIE ALLAMAnDI a.allamandi@riviera-press.fr contributors Claire Lathbury, sarah Hyde, raimund Theobald secretary CArOLE HEbErT contact@riviera-press.fr distribution suPEryACHT DIsTrIbuTIOn

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