Riviera Insider - November/December 2017 by Riviera Press

ACTIVATE Making the most of the winter sun

MUSIC Elton John performs at the Grimaldi Forum

CHRISTMAS Markets & culture this festive season

LIFESTYLE The flower harvest with Chanel

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# 175 novemBer / DecemBer 2017 4,90 â&#x201A;Ź The

english-language

magazine

for

The

french

riviera

monaco

since

2002

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EDITORIAL By PETRA HALL

For me, the winner of this issue is Jean ‘Johnny’ Pigozzi. He is a man of a thousand facets: art collector, philanthropist, photographer, businessman, heir to the Simca automobile brand and much more. Elton John once summarised him as ‘one of the greatest characters in the world’. based between Paris, London, New York, Geneva and Panama, his heart has always beaten for the Cap d’Antibes. Here, in his Villa Dorane, Pigozzi has photographed Liz Taylor, Dennis Hopper, Calvin klein, Helmut Newton, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas and countless international supermodels. Read more on pages 44-47. It’s not his VIP parties that strike me. Rather, I am impressed by his personality and his straight up approach when phrasing things which many don’t dare to express. They, unlike Pigozzi, are afraid to swim against the mainstream. In few words: they lack his strength of personal identity. Pigozzi has this in abundance. In an interview with our berlin based correspondent Anna-

Maria Deutschmann, he boldy states: “I hate selfies like those on Instagram today. People must really think that they are so important that they have to constantly share their face with the world.” And again, concerning Ivanka Trump: “She’s pretty, but I don’t find her particularly appealing. I’d rather be watching Angela Merkel than her.” We need more distinct personalities like Johnny Pigozzi in an era of expected egalitarianism and blind herd-instinct. Self-belief and direction is something I have always strived for in myself and our magazines. In this sense, I wish you all the best for the end of this year. See you again in 2018!

THE TEAM

ELSA CARPENTER

AILA STöCkMANN

CAROLE HébERT

DOMINIQUE FREULON

OLIVIER HELIES

VINCENT ARTUS

FRANÇOISE MULLER

PATRICE SAINT-LEGER

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25 years ago, Petra Hall (Riviera Insider’s editor-inchief) founded the newspaper Riviera Côte d’Azur Zeitung in German, which was followed by The Riviera Times in 2003. These titles have now blossomed under the names Riviera Insider and RivieraZeit into attractive, contemporary magazines. The goal from the beginning was to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights from the Mediterranean written by professional mother-tongue journalists. Petra Hall has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape. Elsa Carpenter (editor of Riviera Insider) joined the team in spring 2016 with fresh ideas and a modern vision for the magazine. Having worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years some of you may recognise her name - she is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers. Olivier Héliès (managing director) joined the team in autumn 2017 with the objective of expanding Riviera Press’ operations. born on the French Riviera, he has spent the last 17 years as a banker and has worked in a number of different cities across Europe. This father-of-three continues to travel whenever he can and is passionate for our region and extreme sports. Aila Stöckmann (editor of RivieraZeit) has been divulging her passion for and her knowledge of the Côte d’Azur with our readers for more than ten years. The German born mother-of-two loves the region, the sun, the beautiful landscape and – obviously – the German language magazine RivieraZeit.

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The Niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer. Carole Hébert (secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly. Françoise Muller (sales & marketing) is originally from Dijon, but has been living and working on the Côte d'Azur since 1993. For 14 years, she has thrived on her work in the communications and marketing industry, and is now a new and enthusiastic member of our team. Her hobbies include literature and sports. Dominique Freulon (events & distribution), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. She is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature. Patrice Saint-Léger (sales & marketing) has been working in the communications sector for more than ten years. After studying business administration and entrepreneurship, our Cannes-born publicist discovered his passion in the advertising business – for its creativity and aesthetics. During his free time, his interests lie in sports and nature.

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Issue #175 SEE MORE, DO MORE, kNOW MORE

conTenTs

The Hotlist Top news & trends

8 Activate Nice, land of sport

Lifestyle The tuberose: a Chanel experience

13 Gourdon: a place called Mountain

18 The sweetest waters of Dolceacqua & Rocchetta Nervina

20 Photo ELTON JOHN © Pierre Hennequin

Seven hectares of forest in solitude

Portrait Screenpainting with Seaholly artist Holly Springham

Monaco Understanding the principality: facts & figures

26 Monaco Yacht Show: old friends, new acquaintances & startling innovation

30 Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival

34 Elton John at the Grimaldi Forum

History Coco Chanel’s La Pausa

58 Golf A special feeling: Terre blanche

58 Finance Compagnie Monégasque de banque: the art of listening

68 Christmas Markets & events across the region

40 A classic Christmas

42 Culture Pool parties with Johnny Pigozzi

44 Picasso & the Minotaur

48 Gourmet Paolo Sari’s organic garden

50 Que sera, sera at New York New York

51 Sports stars unite for the launch of blue Coast brewing Co.

Events See more, do more, known more

74 A Riviera Press soirée in Saint Paul de Vence

76 Expat Focus Chances for Children’s Gabrielle Crump

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Freedom at last! LOGGERHEAD SEA TURTLE RELEASED OFF ANTIBES

If you’ve spent much time at sea in 2017, you might have seen some true treasures! From a sperm whale sighted off the Cap de Nice to a giant devil ray spotted in the waters of Saint Raphaël, it has largely been a year of marine successes. The latest to join them is a loggerhead turtle rescued near Mandelieu La Napoule and released this autumn in Antibes. Earlier this year, the Fondation Marineland opened a Centre de Réhabilitation de la Faune Sauvage in the batterie du Graillon of Antibes Juan-les-Pins. Ever since, the 2.2-hectare protected space has been nursing back to health injured turtles native to the Mediterranean – all of which are listed as endangered species. Collisions with boats, marine pollution, diseases and infections, and accidental entrapment in fishing nets: whatever the cause of their distress, the team veterinarians from Marineland have stepped in to help the wounded creatures. At the end of June, the Whale Watching Mandelieu association spotted a loggerhead turtle in trouble. The animal had ingested more than two metres of fishing line as well as a fishing hook, which had become lodged in its oesophagus. After months of care and attention, the turtle was happily released in October some five nautical miles off the coast of Antibes. Au revoir and bon voyage! 

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Nice’s tramway sees the light TUNNEL FOR THE LIGNE 2 IS COMPLETE

Nice’s second tramway is taking shape. In a ceremony at the end of October, Mayor Christian Estrosi celebrated the completion of the 2.9-kilometre long tunnel between Rue Ségurane and Rue de France, which passes directly beneath the city centre. It has been the most controversial stage of the project and it wasn’t without its difficulties – including the caving in of some sections of road. In total, some 450,000 tonnes of soil were excavated, enough to fill 70 Olympic swimming pools. The tunnel had to pass 12 metres below the bed of the old Paillon river and 29 metres beneath the Marshall underground car park – its lowest point. 77,400 tonnes of concrete supports were also installed. As Estrosi said during the ceremony: “The most difficult part has been achieved.” The first section of the Ligne 2 tramway, which will link Nice Côte d’Azur Airport in the west with the port in the east, is expected to be up and running in the middle of next year. The full route could be fully operational by the end of 2019 – if things go smoothly. 

A new marketplace FROM THE VIRTUAL TO REALITY

Savvy internet shoppers will know all about Etsy, a creative online marketplace where artisans and craftspeople from around the world can sell their goods. From jewellery to furniture, clothing and décor, the only prerequisite is that the products are handmade and original. In Nice, Toulon and 14 other French cities, pop-up Etsy shops are being organised throughout the month of December – perfect timing for finding a special Christmas gift for a loved one. Hotel Le Royal on 23 Promenade des Anglais will host the Nice branch of ‘Etsy: made in France’ from 8th to 10th December. In Toulon, the stores will be based in ODLS on 7 Rue Richard Andrieu from 8th to 24th December. Admission is free.  www.etsy.com

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Festival de Danse in Cannes BRINGING BALLET TO THE MASSES

Over two weekends in December – 8th to 10th and 14th to 17th – the biennial Festival de Danse in Cannes is celebrating contemporary dance in all its forms. This special event is being by the Paris Opera’s brigitte Lefevre in 2017, a woman of curiosity and spirit who entered the world of dance at the tender age of eight. She has always been interested in different dance techniques and, in addition to her professional ballet training, studied jazz with Gene Robinson and took part in many workshops with Alwin Nikolais, Merce Cunningham and Paul Taylor. Lefevre wants to open up the world of contemporary dance to a wider audience – ballet, for example, should not be reserved for elitist evenings. Her eclectic approach to contemporary dance is well-reflected in this year’s programme, as she explains to Riviera Insider: “This year, live music is the leitmotif for many of the performances. Sometimes it is a single guitarist or pianist who accompanies the dancers, sometimes a whole orchestra with a choir!” The performance of Carmina burana by Carl Orff on 16th December at novemBer / DecemBer 2017

the Palais des Festivals is one such example. “This masterpiece will be performed in all its power with 250 artists on stage,” says Lefevre. The widely respected Orchestra of Cannes, Nice Philharmonic Choir, Syrinx vocal ensemble and the Young Persons Choir from the Conservatoire de Cannes will unite with 22 dancers from the Grand Théâtre de Genève ballet. It will be an astonishing spectacle whatever your experience with dance. Regarding the paid programme: for the first time in France, the ballet Nacional Sodre from Uruguay will take the stage (8th December) and a hypnotic performance should be expected of the Scottish Dance Theatre (pictured, 9th December). Three mythical ballets by Roland Petit will be re-enacted by the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet and directed by lead dancer Eleonora Abbagnato (10th December). On the final day of the festival (17th December), an ambitious programme is to be offered by the Cannes Jeunes ballet: they may be young, but these are professional athletes of the highest calibre. Plenty of free shows and activities are also planned. Lefevre recommends attending at least two dates in order to get the most out of one of the dance world’s greatest rendezvous.  www.festivaldedanse-cannes.com

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Ski season WHEN DO THE PISTES OPEN? Itching to dig out your skis or board? The ski season is nearly upon us and a number of the resorts local to the French Riviera are set to be among the first in France to open. Snowfall and conditions will have an effect on the opening dates, but here’s a list of the so-far announced ouvertures for some of the most popular skiing destinations in the region. 

Auron 9th December

Valberg 16th December

Gréolières les Neiges 23rd December

Vall d’Allos 16th December

Isola 2000 2nd December

Vars 16th December

Serre Chevalier 7th December

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In search of sun Whether basking on a beach in the summer heat or ambling along the famous Promenade des anglais in the steps of those early anglophone tourists who ďŹ&#x201A;ocked here in the winter, the French riviera is a joy to behold at all times of the year. Yet it is in these colder months that the true, rural beauty of the region comes to light. riviera insider goes in search of sports, walks and activities that can be enjoyed at this time of the year. activate! By ELSA CARPENTER

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A city that has it all With its azure waters and glamourous image, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Nice is a place of rest and relaxation. Far from it. in recent years, the city has established itself as the southern capital of sport and its reputation looks set to grow.

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nice, lanD of sporT By ELSA CARPENTER

A city that has it all’ might sound like a bit of a boast, but with almost 10 kilometres of seafront and the southern Alps as a striking background, Nice has plenty going for it in terms of sporting terrain. Look further into the cityscape and you’ll find countless public sportsgrounds, swimming pools, parks and, of course, pétanque pitches. Sport and the benefits it brings – from health to social and economic – are firmly on the agenda for the city, which welcomed back its former motorbike professional mayor, Christian Estrosi, for his third term earlier this year. In an interview with Riviera Insider, Nice’s delegate for sporting events and a retired Ligue 1 footballer who played for teams including Paris Saint-Germain, José Cobos talks about the city’s prowess as an international sports destination and its grand future on the world stage.

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JOSÉ COBOS, NICE’S DELEGATE FOR SPORTING EVENTS

monsieur cobos, how many sporting events does nice host annually? From the smallest events, like a simple pétanque tournament within a close-knit neighbourhood, to the biggest, such as the Nice-Cannes Marathon that welcomes more than 14,000 runners, around 500 sporting events are organised and supported by the Ville de Nice each year. The local government attaches huge importance to all of these events because they’re part of the overall passion of our mayor, Christian Estrosi, to make Nice a great city of sport.

are there any events that stand out in particular for their successes and economic impacts on the city of nice? First of all, there are a number of recurring events that novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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football events. The quality of our Allianz Riviera stadium, which more than proved itself during the 2016 Euros, impressed those who represented the Paris bid for the Games. Add to that the fact that Nice is home to the Musée National du Sport – a place that will certainly have a role to play during the Olympics – and our ability to welcome high numbers of guests, and the city could very well be a location picked as a preparation site for international delegates.

nice is the hometown of many an important athlete from Yannick agnel and camille muffat to Jules Bianchi, Jean-françois Tordo and clément lefert. how is the ville de nice continuing the city’s great sporting traditions?

we organise every year, like the Prom’ Classic that is taking place in January, the arrival of the final Paris-Nice cycling stage in March, the IRONMAN in June, the Tour de France à la Voile in July and the thoroughly international marathon that will happen this November. We’ve also hosted many exceptional sporting events, such as the World Figure Skating Championships in 2012, the time trial for the Tour de France in 2013, the European Masters Games in 2015, UEFA European Football Championship in 2016 and at the end of next April, we’ll have the Nice Ultimed, an incredible regatta of the largest trimarans in the world – the first of its kind in the Mediterranean. The following year, the city will welcome the IRONMAN 70.3 (a half IRONMAN) and the Women’s Football World Cup. If France is lucky enough to be selected on 15th November, we might also have the Rugby World Cup in 2023. A portion of the Olympic Games in 2024 will take place here too. These events reinforce the international dimension of our city, inspire young people to get involved with sports, and create massive economic profits and media exposure for Nice. For example, the 2016 Euros generated almost 1.77 million euros of economic fallout for Nice and the region in the space of a month. On 2nd July 2013, 600,000 viewers tuned in for the Nice time trial of the Tour de France and 96% of our hotels were filled for a week. In 2012, the Mondiaux de Patinage figure skating competition saw 20 million euros of direct economic benefits in just one week!

What role will nice play in the 2024 olympic games? Nice has been chosen as one of the host cities for the novemBer / DecemBer 2017

Our athletes have and continue to be excellent ambassadors and driving forces for the city. They are part of our sports policy and we maintain good relations with them throughout the year. They symbolise the ambition we have for sport in Nice: a global goal where grassroots sport is linked to high-level sport, and where major sporting events are organised with the aim of getting as many people involved as possible. The completion of the magnificent Allianz Riviera stadium in September 2013 shouldn’t overshadow the fact that, in the space of nine years, we’ve opened 23 synthetic sportsgrounds across all areas of the city. The result is that the number of members of sports federations increased by 10% between 2008 and 2017. For football, that figure is 38% thanks to these new sites, which have allowed more people to participate and play.

“OUR ATHLETES SYMbOLISE THE AMbITION WE HAVE FOR SPORT IN NICE: A GLObAL GOAL WHERE GRASSROOTS SPORT IS LINkED TO HIGH-LEVEL SPORT, AND WHERE MAJOR SPORTING EVENTS ARE ORGANISED WITH THE AIM OF GETTING AS MANY PEOPLE INVOLVED AS POSSIbLE.”

on a more sombre note, how has your approach to security changed since the attack on the promenade des anglais – which is a popular location for sporting events – in July 2016? Public safety and security has become a central factor in the organisation of sporting and non-sporting events, particularly for those outside of a stadium environment like the ones you mention on the Promenade des Anglais. This requires a lot of collaborative effort with the organisers and the Prefecture of the Alpes-Maritimes. It also comes at a great cost. On average, the budgets of events have increased by 10 to 20% in order to meet the security priorities that have now become paramount.

and finally, what is it about nice and its surrounding areas that make it such a top sporting destination? The city’s strengths allow us to position Nice as a place worthy of welcoming large-scale events: the cosmopolitan and global nature of Nice and the Côte d’Azur, our remarkable hospitality capacity, the presence of France’s second busiest international airport, our exceptional geographical setting between sea and mountains, and, of course, our superb stadium in the form of Allianz Riviera. 

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allez! Nice-Cannes Marathon A 42-kilometre run along the coastline of the Alpes-Maritimes. www.marathon06.com

3RD DECEMbER 2017 Cross des Îles Choose between four courses ranging from 1.4km to 3.5km that wind through the Eucalyptuslined boulevards of Île Sainte Marguerite out in the bay of Cannes. www.cross-des-iles.org

Swimrun Estérel Agathos 18km of trail running and a 5km swim to finish things off between Saint Raphaël and Agay! www.swimrun.esterel-cotedazur.com

31ST JANUARY TO 7TH FEbRUARY 2018 Rallye Automobile MonteCarlo Historique Prefer cars of a certain vintage? Then this event will definitely appeal! www.acm.mc

22ND TO 28TH JANUARY 2018 Rallye de Monte-Carlo Witness the opening event of the 2018 FIA Rally Championship. www.acm.mc

14TH TO 15TH APRIL 2018 Trail des Balcons d'Azur Mandelieu-La Napoule and the Estérel mountains are the background for this awesome trail running challenge. www.traildazur.com

14TH TO 22ND APRIL 2018 25TH FEbRUARY 2018 Semi & 10km de Cannes More conservative distances than the full marathon, but with equally impressive views… www.semi-cannes.org

7TH JANUARY 2018 Prom’ Classic From the age of eight through to the most mature of athletes, Nice’s Prom’ Classic running event has something to suit the whole family. www.promclassic.com

7TH TO 13TH MAY 2018 16TH TO 17TH MARCH 2018

Upcoming sport events in the Côte d’Azur

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11TH MARCH 2018 Paris-Nice Bike Race Follow in the footsteps – or tracks – of professional cyclists during the final day of the week-long event. www.letour.fr/paris-nice

11TH MARCH 2018 Monaco Run Pick from four events – the Riviera Classic of 23.8km, a 10km run, a 3x7km relay or the 5km walk – that encircle the principality. www.monacorun.org

Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters Unless you’re a tennis master, this event is more for spectating than participating. Expect some of tennis’ greatest current stars to take to the court! www.montecarlotennismasters.c om

27TH TO 29TH APRIL 2018 Polar Cannes International Triathlon We can’t help but wonder whether the name of this 2km swim, 95km bike ride and 16km run triathlon has something to do with the chilly spring water temperatures… www.cannes-international-triathlon.com

Open de Cagnes French and international female tennis stars battle it out beneath the spring sun. www.opendecagnes.com

11TH TO 13TH MAY 2018 Grand Prix de Monaco Historique A glorious biannual event featuring some of the finest vintage motorcars. www.acm.mc

24TH TO 27TH MAY 2018 Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix The ultimate event for motorheads! www.formula1.com

30TH MAY TO 3RD JUNE 2018 Les Voiles d’Antibes The first regatta on the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge calendar, this event offers an incredible sailing experience for crew and spectators. Watch from Port Vauban, the Cap d'Antibes and Juan-les-Pins! www.voilesdantibes.com

24TH JUNE 2018 IRONMAN One of the most impressive sporting adventures with an equally inspiring setting: swim in the Mediterranean, bike through the alps and run along the Promenade des Anglais! www.eu.ironman.com

LACS DE VENS

A hike to the Arc de Tortisse

The 16-kilometre hike to the Collet de Tortisse is one of the most dramatic yet strenuous walks open to the general public in the Mercantour National Park. It certainly isn’t for novices. Taking around six hours to complete, the path is bordered on all sides by the region’s craggy mountains and peaks, and begins at over 1,500 metres above sea level. You will pass by some of the most beautiful lakes in the park – the Vens lakes – and impressive geological structures, such as the famous Collet de Tortisse and the natural limestone arch that takes its name. The Collet is the highest point of the hike at nearly 2,600 metres and is midway through the walk (so save your picnic for this part!). From the Collet de Tortisse, you can keep going to the right until you reach the Italian border and the Colletto di Panieris. A refuge called Rifugio Talarico for randonneurs awaits in the Prati del Vallone – perfect if your legs are too tired to head all the way back. To find the start, take the RM2205 in the direction Saint Etienne de Tinée. Follow onto the D2205 heading for the Col de la bonnette and continue for around nine kilometres. Once you’ve passed two bends in the road, a car park will appear on the left and a dirt road on the right. Now it’s time to ditch the car (or motorbike) and take the N°20 signal!

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BeTWeen skY & sea Winter action in Théoule-sur-Mer There’s hardly anywhere in the French riviera as inviting during the winter months as Théoulesur-Mer, where deep red rock framed by sky and sea echoes memories of warm summer sunlight. By AILA STÖCKMANN his isn’t a place that needs superyachts or superstars: Théoulesur-Mer has preserved its rural character and is proud of that fact. Everyone knows each other in the final coastal town of the AlpesMaritimes, claims the head of the tourism office, Dominique baldini, but in the summertime, the population increases tenfold. That’s perhaps the first reason to venture to the intoxicating red rocks found at the base of the Estérel mountain range in the cooler season. For hiking, mountain biking and much more, this is the Côte d’Azur’s El Dorado. It’s far too hot in the summer anyway. 100 kilometres of trails criss-cross the rough, volcanic landscape with different lengths and difficulty levels, and

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Watersport equipment rentals from the Base Nautique Théoule on Quai edouard Blondy are priced from 12€ per hour. individual lessons begin at 65€. www.base-nautiquetheoule.fr

Jet’s Cool watersports centre in Port de la Figueirette offers trips inland during winter months as well as jetski and flyboard experiences from mid-april to midOctober. www.jetscool-offroad.com

Do you like bouillabaisse? This traditional ﬁsh soup is a speciality of Jilali. B restaurant on the Corniche d’Or, the famous coastal road that wraps around the estérel Massif. This ﬁne dining restaurant (menu from 39€) has an enclose terrace for colder months (closed Monday and Tuesday). Tel: +33 (0)4 93 75 19 03

flora and fauna enjoy freedom in this largely untouched paradise. but despite the beauty of the wilderness, Théoule-sur-Mer is also deeply attached to its 13 kilometres of Mediterranean coastline as mayor (since 2004) and general practitioner Georges botella explains. Watersports are on the agenda almost all year round. The base nautique closes from December to February, when owner Gilles goes skiing with children from the sailing school, but otherwise offers a range of nonmotorised activities throughout the year. Lessons in sailing, windsurfing, kayaking and the ever-popular stand-up paddling can be taken here or you can borrow equipment. Gilles’ kayaking tours transport guests cross the bay to explore the Grotte de Gardanne and its impressive natural arch. The beach on which Gilles is based is also the ideal spot for summer swimming, he reveals, as barely any tourists make the walk to Plage du Suveret, even in July. While on the path, you’ll pass five large, light blue boats bobbing in the harbour. The pointus – traditional fishing vessels belonging to locals – are part of a club that is perhaps more about communal conviviality than fishing success and there are around 130 members of Rascasse Club Théoule. The meticulously maintained boats are frequently rented out to film crew, but there is no bling or superficiality here. For its residents, Théoule-sur-Mer is about soul and the quintessential village esprit de corps. 

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a place calleD mounTain By ELSA CARPENTER

Exploring Gourdon The medieval village of Gourdon is a magical place. Perched on a rocky outcrop some 760 metres above sea level, it commands a dominating position and has served as a near impenetrable fortress throughout the last millennium. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

s we approach the village from the south, it appears out of a cloudy haze that has followed us from the coast. The 17th century fort, which was built by Louis de Lombard on foundations laid down 800 years earlier, and the church steeple mark Gourdon’s highest points. They give this feudal village a sense of majesty and dominance over the rocky prospect. We decide to continue on a northly trajectory on the D12 until we reach a small carpark at the foot of the Plateau de Cavillore that sits above Gourdon at an altitude of more than 1,000 metres. The sky is clearing up here and by the time we have finished the short walk down to Gourdon – which translates as mountain – is basking in sunlight. A flock of paragliders fly overhead, making their calm descent over the village and down towards the coast. We pass by the Chapelle Saint Vincent en route. It has been vandalised and abandoned in the passing years, but still features the bold and almost comic-style frescos by Grasse artist André Torre (1929-1999). Cherubs and the Virgin Mother look down on us from the domed

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EDITOR’S NOTE

ceiling, flaking away in places and marked by teenage lovers’ initials. The building was once part of the ancient priory of the Lérins Islands and its monastic community, but it is now crumbling away with only the innermost part of the chapel still standing. As we near the village, we meet a local woman picking fresh figs from a tree with her granddaughter. A few shouts from the forested area to the southwest interrupt our conversation and she tuts, “I don’t know why they are still hunting here. Il n’y a plus de gibier (all of the game is gone). I’d keep your dogs on the lead.” We hastily take her advice and pick our way along the path, scanning the road and listening intently for other sounds, but the only wildlife we encounter is a glorious praying mantis with red eyes and some dangerous looking pincers. There are around 400 Gourdonnais living within the confines of the old town and the hamlets that dot the landscape. The first mention of the village was in 1035 and the foundations of its fort date from the 9th century. Agriculture and the distillation of flowers for the nearby perfume industry have long been its main sources of revenue, but today the streets are full of artisans and

“The first time i visited Gourdon was for a (perhaps unconventional) dog’s birthday party complete with cake and party hats. a friend was celebrating her one-year anniversary with her dashing australian Shepherd-Beagle mix and invited myself, my whippet and a dozen or so friends and their pups along for a walk in the winter sunshine. We met up in a field to the east of the village, but still within easy walking distance. as any fellow dog owners will be able to imagine, it was chaos with so many legs running around and a 700-metre cliff to the south, but also great fun for pet and proprietor alike!”

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craftspeople: glassblowing, soap production, jewellery and ceramics. For lunch we settle on a restaurant just above the Place Victoria, which was named so in honour of the british Queen Victoria who vacationed here in 1891. The speciality of La Taverne Provençale is a goat cheese salad with the chévre served as a warm fondue. The ingredients are resolutely Mediterranean, but the alpine twist on a coastal classic suits Gourdon’s eagle nest geography. Our main course is a traditional coq au vin, which may be a well-known French dish, but it isn’t one you often encounter in the south of France. The indulgently thick jus and slow cooked chicken is perfect for a crisp, autumn day. On our stroll around the village streets, we discover many quaint alleys and secret pathways, such as Passage des Scornaches. Most people will have to duck down to make it through, but this is the best angle from which to appreciate its weathered wooden rafters. It leads to a small courtyard where someone is drying their clothes beneath a big tree. There isn’t much to explore, but the square does offer another vista to the 360° panorama of Place Victoria, which stretches 80 kilometres along the coastline from Nice to Théoule-surMer. The courtyard itself looks out towards the Loup river and the Cascades du Saut du Loup to the east. In the olden days, the only way to reach Gourdon from the hamlet of Pont du Loup was on the back of a mule or donkey along the Chemin du Paradis (the Road to Heaven). It is an intense 500-metre climb – or scramble – up to Gourdon and we decide to leave it for another day!  novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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The sWeeTesT WaTers The Province of Imperia takes your breath away even if only to gaze into the crystal waters of the Nervina river, a drive through the wilderness of the Province of imperia is a journey worth undertaking at any time of the year.

line Via San Sebastiano brings home the differences between the Côte d’Azur and its Italian neighbour. We eat well and plentifully at Il borgo for almost half the price as would be possible on the French coast: thin crust pizzas for two of our party and the dish of the day – half a lobster with a flavoursome tomato sauce – for the other half. Despite the tourists that arrive in their bus loads, the old town of Dolceacqua has retained much of its charm. It still has the moist smell of a medieval castle of old. Lunch is exercised off on the many flights of stairs and winding passageways; all that remains is to sample some local wines from a small cellar at the foot of Castle Doria. Fabio Corradi obliges with a generous pour of his Maixei (in the local dialect, the word designates the dry stone walls of the landscape) Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vermentino DOC. Fresh, wellbalanced and with a citrus crispness, a glass would have been perfect with lunch! 

By ELSA CARPENTER

THE MYTH OF LA MICHETTA

orgoing the busy roads of Ventimiglia, we choose the rustic route over the crest of a mountain ridge to reach Rocchetta Nervina, passing by houses that seem to be built out of the rock and terraced plots constructed by hands of Ligurian farmers long forgotten. For a confident driver, the SP92 road is a thrill, but still induces moments of anxiety as a local comes haring towards you on a gravel path that seems barely wide enough for one car – let alone two. Once parked close to the village square, with just enough time to drink a cappuccino before

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the church bells ring in noon (and even then the waitress seems personally hurt that we’ve ordered one so late in the day), we follow a path on the southern side of the pontevecchio or old bridge. Mere minutes on foot and your eyes will be immediately drawn down to waters so blue it seems unnatural. It is, of course, and much of the village gets its water straight from the river. Swimming pools are abounding and after passing a small bridge and cottage about 20 minutes into our walk, we reach a deep pool nestled in the valley. Everyone has their preferred spot alongside this water course – there is no right or wrong in a place as beautiful as this. It is already autumn and the water is cool, but not so much so that it is too cold to swim. It might steal your breath for a moment, but how could we resist?! Warmed from our walk back to the car, we head further down the valley to the picturesque village of Dolceacqua. A quick glance at the menus of the restaurants that

On 16th august, the village of Dolceacqua celebrates the most intimate symbol of femininity. They call it the Festival of La Michetta and women bake a special pastry in the shape of a curvaceous female form. Some go a step further and craft a sugarsprinkled vagina from the sweetened dough. The ﬁrst sight of these pastries lining the windows of the panetteria is likely to bring about some embarrassed giggles, but the festival has a dark and tragic past. in the 14th century, young couple Lucrézia and Basso were married. as night fell on the newlyweds, men under the control of the cruel Marquis Doria stole the girl away. The Marquis wished to enact the odious Jus Primae Noctis – the law of the ﬁrst night in which the lord has the right to take the virginity of a serf bride living on his land – and upon Lucrézia’s vehement refusals, he had her thrown into the dungeons, where she starved to death. Her distraught husband entered the castle armed with a dagger. rather than kill the marquis, he ordered an edict by written that abolished the Jus Primae Noctis. in the days that followed and in celebration of their freedom from such subjugation, the women of Dolceacqua began crafting the now famous Michetta pastries, a tradition that continues into the present day.

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seven hecTares of fuTure

Breil-surRoya protects its forests By AILA STÖCKMANN

Main photo SOME OF THE SPECIES IN THE RESERVE ARE FOUND NOWHERE ELSE IN THE REGION ©D.R. Right photo IN THE HEART OF THE MERCANTOUR, SEVEN HECTARES OF FOREST HAS FOUND SOLACE ©D.R.

ayor André Ipert is accompanied by a group of employees from the Mercantour National Park as well as a forestry official and two locals as he follows a narrow, bumpy road deep into the mountains above breil-surRoya. The village is now hidden by trees on the other side of the river and all around rise the summits of the AlpesMaritimes. “You find yourselves in the heart of the national park,” explains Claire Crassous, the woman in charge of the Mercantour’s forests. It’s no longer possible to travel here by car and even off-road vehicles would have reached their limitations. So the mayor and his companions continue on foot for a few hundred metres along a tree-lined path until a steeply descending trail into their destination appears: a natural forest reserve or ilôt de sénescence under the Natura 2000 initiative. For the next 30 years, this zone will be left completely to itself. No human intervention is allowed – the small alpine village has committed itself to this rule. The municipality is actually to be reimbursed 28,000€ for the land, money paid as a way of compensation for the value of the trees it could have otherwise cut down and sold. This is the fourth Natura 2000 forest reserve in the Alpes-Maritimes – following Entraunes, Saorge and La bollène – and more are in the pipeline. The concept of leaving the forest to fend for itself, as it would have in ancient times, is explained by Crassous: “Old trees and deadwood are proof that the forest is doing well. They are a source of food and hiding spaces for numerous species, and provide a healthy

microclimate and biodiversity in a variety of ways.” Throughout the centuries, much of the region’s forests have been cleared and ‘tidied’ by human hands. There is little sign of their true nature left. The idea is to protect as many of these woodland zones as possible in the hope that flora and fauna will spread from one to the next. There are certain criteria for being classed as a Natura 2000 reserve: subject to the species, trees must have a minimum diameter. For the prolific fir trees, it is 70 centimetres. Examples of aging must be present too, such as crumbled bark underfoot, deadwood, and holes and crevices in tree trunks. If there are birds like woodpeckers and owls on site, it means that the forest is in a healthy state. As the group moves through the reserve for the final time in three decades, passing over mossy scrub and fallen trees, the smell of wild mint in the air, everyone starts to realise: this is how untouched nature looks. Crassous points out white triangles on the trunks of some of the trees: “This is a sign that the tree is protected in Europe.” Exactly 71 trees bear the mark in this seven-hectare protected area – the trees with the thickest trunks, mainly fir and acorn. Other important species include sycamore, maple, white oak, willow, white beam, lime trees, hazelnut, laburnum, honeysuckle and ash. There are a number of species found here that exist nowhere else in the region. Mayor André Ipert is satisfied with what he has seen: “30 years in a rather short period of time for a forest, but we are happy to have such a ‘shelter’ in our municipality.” 

NATURA 2000 The Natura 2000 network is made up of protected areas across the european Union. established in 1992, its purpose is the transnational protection of endangered wild native plant and animal species as well as their natural habitats. The network is made up of more than 27,000 individual zones of over a million square kilometres; it’s the largest coordinated project of its kind in the world and represents 7% of the eU’s surface area.

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The TuBerose A Chanel experience Delicate and fragile, the tuberose is one of the most precious ﬂowers used in today’s perfumery. at the peak of the harvest, riviera insider headed for the Mul family estate in Pégomas to participate in its cueillette. By ELSA CARPENTER

Photos TUBEROSE FLOURISHES IN THE MUL FAMILY ESTATE ©D.R.

t is early autumn and although the ground is soft underfoot following several days of rain, the heat of the September sun is still causing sweat to break out on the brows of the flower pickers as they make their way through 1.5 hectares of prime tuberose. In 1987, Chanel signed a unique and exclusive partnership with the biggest floral producer in the Pays Grassois. The Mul family, who has cultivated the matériel primaire destined for perfume bottles since 1840, is headed by fourth generation flower farmer Joseph. He has worked the family’s 200,000 square metres of land in Pégomas since he was a child and moves through the rows of flowers with grace and ease despite his later years. “My great grandfather was a visionary,” he says of the man who founded this family tradition. “In addition to the flowers, he also produced milk that he delivered freshly bottled. He had respect for quality in his very veins.” The laiterie is no more, replaced over the years by fragrant flowers and aromatic plants that were — for a period — a more profitable source of income than Mul dairy products. but

by the 1970s, the flower producing industry was faltering and failing. Dozens upon dozens of smaller producers were forced to close and now the Mul estate is the largest in the region. Scent from its jasmine and Centifolia roses can be found in every single bottle of Chanel’s iconic No. 5 perfume, which was created by perfumer Ernest beaux in Grasse using jasmine from the region in 1921. The tuberose is a new addition to Chanel’s repertoire, having only been produced by the Muls for the last six years. The world’s leading perfume brand is now translating its olfactory properties for the first time with the launch of Gabrielle, a fragrance imagined by parfumeur Olivier Polge, whose father was there at the start of the partnership between these two great houses some three decades ago. It is a voluptuous, round and enveloping aroma. As Joseph demonstrates how to pluck a tuberose (you must gently pull at the base of the flower and with a slight twist to the right, release it from the stem), his son-in-law Fabrice bianchi explains how just three of these exquisite, opalescent flowers in a dish of water can fill a home their scent. The family has a reputation for excellence in the region and a consistent level of the superbest quality is critical. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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“OUR FLOWERS ARE CHILDREN THAT WE RAISE TO MATURITY.”

“Our flowers are children that we raise to maturity,” says Fabrice, who has nearly three decades of experience in the field. “We never stop improving our techniques to ensure we are working at our optimum, but without exhausting the soil. We let the parcels of land rest between each cultivation and study our harvests to understand the language of the flowers.” The estate produces around 20 varieties of flowers — among them the quintessential Grasse favourites of rose de mai, geranium, iris and jasmine — but it is the tuberose that demands the most intense efforts of the farmers. It has taken since 2011 for the Muls to build up to the 250,000 bulbs now in the ground. The harvest takes place over four months, beginning at the start August and lasting until the end of November. One head could novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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GABRIELLE chanel’s latest perfume

PERFUMER OLIVIER POLGE (LEFT) ALONGSIDE FARMER JOSEPH MUL ©D.R.

produce a score of flowers, but they grow in progression from the bottom up and are harvested on multiple occasions. Once plucked, the bulbs are divided up. Over the course of its life, numerous ‘baby bulbs’ or bulbillons grow around a mother bulb. Joseph conserves just the four strongest bulbillons, which are placed in a nursery while the larger mother bulbs are returned to the cellar in temperatures just above 0°C. The bulbs enter freshly raked and irrigated earth in April, planted 15cm apart in rows of six. They will flower the following year and sometimes the year after that. Tuberoses grown from a mother bulb are typically ready for harvest during the first two months of the season. The younger flowers will flourish later in the autumn. We watch as a dozen men and women walk through the flowers, instinctively collecting them and placing them in a traditional apron that is slung around the waist. Following Joseph’s instructions, we try our hand, but despite the sturdiness of the monochrome Chanel wellingtons we’ve been gifted for the day, it seems that barefoot (and many years of practise) is the preferred method. Around 20 people work continuously on the tuberose harvest and many have done so for their entire working lives. We head back to the farmhouse or bastide as the sun hits its highest point in the sky and meet some of the women who have been tasked with the harvesting of jasmine. It takes around 4,000 flowers to produce 1kg so

it is repetitive work despite the beauty of the flower. In total, 3 tonnes will be harvested this year and 2.5 tonnes of tuberose. Tanned from the sun and wearing a colourful skirt and headdress, one lady explains that her basket usually holds around 3kg of flowers, but today it may be more. Due to the recent rainfall, the flowers are plump, succulent and heavier than usual. This is good news: the harvesters are paid by weight. The Muls and their team, which swells to around 80 people during the apex of the seasons, do much of the production process themselves. Once picked and weighed, the flowers are taken immediately to the extractor and treated using innovative techniques developed over several lifetimes of expertise. They then transport the pure essential oils to Chanel’s factories in Grasse, some 7km to the north. Every Chanel perfume in the world is bottled in Grasse and the estate in Pégomas is perhaps the most important site for the brand. That’s why the company, which was recently valued at 6.2 billion euros by Forbes, is so concerned by French state plans to build a new train line that will cut directly through the heart of the Mul property. “We understand that this train track is essential for the region,” says a representative for Chanel, “but it cannot happen here in Pégomas. This is a place of patrimoine vivant (living heritage) and it is fundamental to the future of Chanel in the region.” 

“Before she was the designer Coco Chanel, she was Gabrielle,” goes the story. “a rebel at heart — passionate and selfruling — she freed herself to become the woman she wanted to be.” Launched in 2017 and designed by fourth generation perfumer Olivier Polge, Gabrielle is the newest perfume to join the prestigious shelves of Chanel’s creations. it holds within its timeless bottle the lifeblood of four white flowers. “For the first time, the composition of a Chanel fragrance includes tuberose grown in the fields of the Pays Grassois,” explains Olivier during our visit. “i put the emphasis on floral notes to find a new realm of expression.” it is a ‘genuine ode to flowers’ according to Gabrielle’s creator. The freshness of orange blossom belies the intensity of jasmine while the velvetiness of ylang-ylang is accentuated by the creaminess of the famed tuberose. Gabrielle is now available in stores around the world.

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UNKNOWN MONACO»

unDersTanDing The principaliTY The facts & the ﬁgures By ELSA CARPENTER

Monaco is an undoubtedly unique place with a complex history and globally exclusive status, but how well do we really know and understand it? riviera insider met with the head of the principality’s institut Monégasque de la Statistique et des Études Économiques (iMSee), Lionel Galfré, to get the oﬃcial facts and ﬁgures.

o best understand the Principality of Monaco, we need to know something of its history and formation. On 8th January 1297, François Grimaldi – a man of Genoese birth who was reportedly known as il Malizia (the Cunning) – is believed to have seized the fort on Le Rocher by ‘deceptive’ means. Just over three decades later, in 1331, Charles Grimaldi I was named the Seigneur or Lord of Monaco. He was the son of François’ cousin and stepson, Rainier I of Monaco, and it was his reign that is perceived as the first move of independence for the principality. However, four years after the start of the French Revolution in 1789, Monaco was absorbed into the French Republic as a simple ‘commune’ of the Alpes-Maritimes. It regained

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its autonomy in 1861, and in 1911, Prince Albert I promulgated the first Monegasque Constitution. The principality joined the United Nations in 1993 and became a member of the Council of Europe in 2004. Following the death of Prince Rainier III in 2005, the ascension of current sovereign Prince Albert II took place on 12th July that year. He married his South African wife, former Olympic swimmer Charlene Wittstock, in the summer of July 2011 and their two children, twins Prince Jacques and Princess Gabriella, who are respectively first and second in line to the throne, were born on 10th December 2014. IMSEE itself was officially launched in 2011 by the first minister of state to be chosen by a sovereign prince, Michel Roger, as a means of providing professional and reliable statistics on areas such as: Monaco’s territory and geographical and climatic environment, the population, the economy, living conditions and quality of life, and its regional and international status. Head of IMSEE Lionel Galfré, who we meet at his office close to the Port of Fontvieille, has been compiling statistics for the Monegasque government since 2008 and now runs a team of eight employees for the statistical institute. He has a passion for number and chiffres, saying, “[They] allow us to reflect on a range of subjects, observe social and economic phenomena, and assist the principality in choosing its policies.” A census is organised every eight years in Monaco – the last being in 2016 – but annual updates are made to the data files each year using information provided by a range of public organisations and local authorities. 50 people were recruited for last year’s census, which saw every door knocked in the principality over the course of a month. “We’re hoping to modernise our methods of collecting information and their frequency,” says Galfré, “for example, by going online.”

geography & territory 59-year-old Prince Albert II rules over 2km² of territory that borders the eastern part of the Alpes-Maritimes. Measuring 3.34km in length at its widest point and 1.14km in width (just 40% of the working population uses a private

 Above photo

LIONEL GALFRÉ IS PICTURED IN FRONT OF THE DISTRICT PLANS OF MONACO

 Above photo THE POPULATION OF THE PRINCIPALITY IS MOST DENSELY CONCENTRATED IN MONTE-CARLO © IMSEE

vehicle to get to work and one in three walks), the principality has nearly 4km of coastline: 41% of its total border. Its lowest areas are the beaches in the Larvotto zone while the Palais Princier on Le Rocher sits at 62.2m above sea level and its highest peak is 164.4m. Its special geographical position, against a background of steep cliffs and mountains, has given Monaco an advantage other than photogenic qualities: a microclimate. With just 63 days of rain recorded in 2016, the principality basks in pure Mediterranean sunshine for 80% of the year. Impressively, 22% of Monaco’s territory is a designated ‘green space’, 38% of which is on private property. The number of publicly accessible green spaces has fallen in recent years, from over 276,000m² in 2014 to just under 270,000m² last year. Off the coast, there are two marine reserves: Larvotto, which measures 33.6 hectares, and the Tombant des Spéluges that spans 1.9 hectares and is home to a coralline habitat.

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population The principality is most commonly divided into nine quartiers or districts, but for the purposes of the 2016 census, Galfré explains that the Ravin Saint-Dévote neighbourhood – the smallest in Monaco – was incorporated into Les Moneghetti. Of the 37,500 people registered as citizens of the principality, 22% live in the Monte-Carlo quartier, 19% live in La Rousse, 14% reside proportionally in the Jardin Exotique and La Condamine areas, Fontvieille is home to 12%, 11% live in Les Moneghetti, 5% in Larvotto and 3% live in Monaco-Ville, which is home to the famous Le Rocher zone and the palace. The native Monegasque, who count Galfré among them, are a minority in their nation and make up just 22.5% of the population (9,160 people in 2016). Almost 95% of all Monegasque continue to live in the principality and 4.2% live close by in France. The number of people holding Monegasque citizenship has tripled in the last six decades: nearly two thirds of today’s population attained nationality by birth right, one in five by marriage, and a total of 1,341 at the invitation of the sovereign. A healthy bank balance or an international reputation as a world class athlete? While Galfré is happy to explain the three routes of gaining Monegasque nationality, neither he nor IMSEE can answer the question of the criteria that the prince requests of candidates. The number is continuing to grow, however, and since 2011, a man wed to a Monegasque woman is able to claim nationality following ten years of marriage (this right was already available to women). In 2016, just two marriages occurred

between two people of Monegasque nationality while 78 nuptials involving a Monegasque national and a foreigner took place. Almost 140 different nationalities were recorded in the most recent census, a list dominated by Europeans and Anglophones: 9,286 French, 8,172 Italians, 2,795 brits (the third largest expatriate community), 366 Americans, 311 Canadians, and 173 Australians and Irish respectively. Just over half – 51.5% – of the population is female. Although the average age is 46.5 (up from 46 during the 2008 census), Monaco’s reputation as a haven for the rich and older classes certainly rings true in the fact that the over 65s category is the biggest at 25.9%. A Monegasque person can expect to live until 85.4 (women 88.2 and men 82.7) according to the United Nations – the highest life expectancy in the world and two full years ahead of the next closest country, Japan at 83.3 years. Cancer is the leading cause of death in Monaco and was directly blamed for 41.9% of deaths in 2016 (8.3% of which were caused by lung cancer). Other main causes of death are illnesses linked to the circulatory system (23.4%) and respiratory system (12%).

family life 59.1% of adults resident in Monaco live with their partner. 53.3% of the population is married, 27.1% is deemed single or célibataire (unmarried), 11.7% is divorced and 7.9% is widowed. A third of the total population lives alone. 193 marriages took place in 2016 – 65.3% of which were first marriages – and 89

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divorces were granted. In total, 938 children were born in the principality last year according to the Service de l’état Civil. 256 were born to Monaco residents and a little over half were born to married parents. Just 15 children are recorded as being born to parents with residency outside of France or Monaco. The average age for giving birth is 32.1 among Monegasque women – older than France (30.4), Italy (31.7) and the Uk (30.3) – who go on to have 2.5 children, which is one of the healthiest birth rates in the Western Hemisphere. Housing represents 60% of property use in the principality (public facilities is second at 14% then office space with 11%, hospitality and hotels come in at 6%, retail at 5% and finally industry with 3%). There are just under 20,000 homes (apartments, houses and villas) in Monaco, 89% of which are primary residences. It is estimated that 7% of properties currently stand empty. The average size of a home is 2.9 rooms and measures between 60 and 80m². People of Monegasque nationality have access to logements dominaux, which are properties reserved exclusively for this demographic that are available at a much lower rent than other forms of accommodation. There are 4,100 such homes in and around the principality, and 321 building permissions for new developments were granted in 2016. The average household has 1.4 vehicles, but – and perhaps surprisingly given the small amount of space in the principality – 12.9% have three or more cars. One in three homes in the principality has at least one dog or cat. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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economy With regards to the active population, 46% of adults are in regular work, 9% are homemakers and 7% are students or apprentices. Retired people make up a third of over 16s. Unemployment stands at 2%, far below the French commensurate of 9.7% in 2016. 86.1% of the working population has Monaco-based employment while 4.2% work across the border in France, 0.9% commute to the Uk and 0.8% head east to Italy. “There are 52,500 employees in Monaco,” explains Galfré, “which is pretty unbelievable considering the population is 37,550.” Around 4,500 people work within the public sector with the remaining 48,000 working for private employers. A higher ratio of men to women in fulltime employment permeates both the public and private sector, and the Monegasque are most wellrepresented in the public sector (30% of employees are native to the country compared to just 2% in the private sector). The main industries in the private sector are: scientific and technical activities (20.5%), accommodation and food service (11.5%), construction (9.5%), financial and insurance activities (8%), public administration, health, education and social work (8%), wholesale and retail trade (both 5%), transportation and storage (4%), and real estate activities (3.5%). Turnover in the private sector was down -0.7% in 2016 compared to the previous year at 12,876,000 euros. between 2014 and 2015, Monaco’s Gross Domestic Product grew 5.4% against the average 1% increase across the European continent to 5.64 billion euros according to the World bank. GDP per capita is an impressive 108,611€. “For such a small country,” says Galfré, “a relatively large amount of wealth is generated here.” The main source of state revenue is commercial transactions and VAT (580 million euros in 2016). Legal transactions such as transfer duties, duties on civil and administrative acts and insurance taxes come in second at 196 million euros then the real estate sector – all income from rented properties and revenue from public car parks – with 140 million euros. Although the number of real estate sales is relatively stable, hovering at around 1,000 a year since 2015, the average price per square metre has increased dramatically to 41,420€ (a 13% increase over the course of just one year). Five years ago, in 2012, the average price per square metre was 29,791€. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

education 72.7% of Monegasque and Monaco residents over the age 16 have at least a high school diploma, the baccalauréat, and 23% have a master’s degree or more. There are 433 teachers for the 4,403 primary and secondary schoolchildren in the public system. Class sizes are at their lowest in five years with an average of 6.8 primary pupils and 22.2 secondary students in each class. There are 1,282 children in private education, for which there are 216 teachers (average class sizes are higher in the private system at 24.7pupils for primary schools and 23 for secondary).

but they are actually much the same as their French equivalents. The only marked differences are the willingness of young girls to ‘experiment’ – those resident in Monaco are twice as likely to try cannabis as their French counterparts – and the fact that champagne is the most popular drink among teens. In the 30 days before the survey, more than 50% of students had enjoyed a glass of bubbly. “We are not guided by our statistics, it is us who direct them,” says Galfré. “You only have to look at countries such as those in Scandinavia, who have paid great attention to statistical information, to see how Monaco as a whole can benefit.” 

Youth One section of his work that Galfré seems particularly impassioned by is the European School Survey Project on Alcohol and Other Drugs study into the habits of Monaco’s young people. During the final year of the four-year study, which came to an end in 2015, nearly 1,300 16-year-olds were interviewed in the principality. 94% said they had already tried alcohol, 62% had smoked at least one cigarette and 46% had tried cannabis. Of those who regularly used alcohol or drugs, 23% smoked a cigarette daily, 16% drank at least 10 days of the month and 5% smoked cannabis over the same time period. Students were also questioned about their experiences with other illegal drugs, such as cocaine (4%), ecstasy (2.5%) and amphetamines (2.5%). The figures may be a shocking read to some,

MONACO EN CHIFFRES Half way through each year, the Monaco en Chiﬀres book is published by Galfré and his team at iMSee. Much of the extensive collection of data, with spans more than 234 pages in the most recent production, can be found online at www.imsee.mc. The site is regularly updated to continue the most current statistics, such as the monthly economy summary. a mini ‘Monaco Statistics Pocket’ is available in english and the full document can be purchased in paperback (and in French) for 12€.

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2017

The super BoWl of luxurY YachTing

Monaco Yacht Show seems to set a new standard for excellence every year, breaking new records each edition and always seeking to provide an experience more spectacular than the last.

n 2017, the 27th MYS – known in some circles at the Super bowl of luxury yachting – saw visitor counts increase by a massive 8% on the previous year. The fleet also grew in size and number; 125 yachts were exhibited in total and, on average, were just two years in age. According to director of the show Gaëlle Tallarida, slots for on board visits were completely filled up by the first day of the event! The second edition of the Car Deck, with its

extensive range of luxury cars and vehicles, was again a success among men (and some women) of all ages. At one point, you had to battle a crowd to get a close-up look at an incredible original Shelby Cobra 427 S/C in a steely metallic from one exhibitor. A newer addition to the show, the Tenders & Toys exhibition space just next door, also drew interest from owners and crew alike. Over 150 private events and parties took place over the four days and a living atmosphere was to be found in every corner and venue of the show. Until next year! 

arT on The WaTer

shaped many a conversation. The soirée was an opportunity for high-profile members of the originally German company – including president of the French branch David Scheffler and his marketing director Marie Seignolle, Côte d’Azur team leaders Patrice Rochas and Dominique Naudès, and brokers from Cannes, SaintJean-Cap-Ferrat, Saint Tropez and Nice – to present M/Y Maybe as a new addition to Engel

& Völkers’ French Riviera yachting division. Engel & Völkers is currently expanding its team between Monaco and Saint Tropez in order to better serve its many local and international clients in the region. The company is one of the world’s most prominent market leaders for luxury real estate and it has represented high quality service for more than 40 years. 

Engel & Völkers invites Riviera Insider abord uring MYS, real estate giants Engel & Völkers invited Riviera Insider and 80 other VIP guests and partners to a glamourous evening on board 59-metre yacht M/Y Maybe. Mobile violinist katharina Pustka provided a subtle musical backdrop to the evening while sculptural works from artist Laurence Jenkell

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riviera press aT mYs Press partner for 17 years already!

It’s not just for the boats… Riviera Press has been a press partner of the world’s greatest yachting show for nearly two decades and every year we return to make new acquaintances, catch up with old friends and partners, and discover the latest news in the principality and the expat community!

(1) Tahiti says hello! Manoa Rey and Iotua Lenoir from the Tahitian tourist office came to Monaco in the search of new markets. They are pictured with editor-in-chief Petra Hall and CEO Olivier Héliès. (2) Artist Holly Springham, who is featured on pages 56-57, dropped by the stand to say hello. (3) Anahataflow’s Magali Mazzei. (4) Antibes-based independent financial adviser Mike Lorimer is a long time reader of Riviera Insider. (5) Director of the show Gaëlle Tallarida presents Prince Albert II with a cheque of 48,000€ for his foundation. (6) Many thanks to Château de l'Aumérade’s Eva Vignes – yes, that really is her name! – who treated our guests to a delicious range of red, white and rosé wine. She is pictured here with a colleague. (7) Riviera Insider editor Elsa Carpenter with the Financial Times’ marketing executive for southern regions and Monaco, ben keeley. (8) Magali Jacquet-Lagreze of CFM Indosuez Wealth Management and Cédric Léal from the Hippodrome Cagnes-sur-Mer. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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Triton submarines

TenDers & ToYs

Mechanical Technician Sterling Jones (24) from Vero Beach, Florida

The next generation in 2017, the world’s leading yacht event responded to a growing interest in ultra-tech tenders and ‘toys’ with a dedicated exhibition space in Port Hercules. riviera insider headed down to Quai antoine 1er to meet some of the pioneers of this emerging super yacht trend.

iBubble Communications Manager Théo Cartereau (25) from Lyon, France

By ELSA CARPENTER

pal-v Account Manager Joris Wolters (22) from the Netherlands

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“Triton has been attending MYS for around five years, but this is the first time I’ve been able to experience it for myself! Monaco is unlike anywhere else: the scale and number of participating yachts, the amount of innovation, the buying power of visitors… On the second day of the show, we revealed our luxury submersible project in collaboration with Aston Martin. We’re a very bespoke company with over 300 years of combined expertise — some of our team have dived on the Titanic! One of our recent accomplishments was watching David Attenborough dive on the Great barrier Reef in one of our Triton 3300/3 submersibles. The yachts at MYS have the capabilities to carry products like Triton’s so it’s certainly one of the best shows for us to attend.”

“This is the very first time that ibubble has attended MYS. We’re launching our product — the world’s only autonomous underwater drone — in summer 2018 and thought that the show provided us with a very interesting business opportunity. There is a huge range of potential markets at the show and there has been much interest in the product from visitors. The ibubble is entirely wireless and is unlike any other underwater drone available today. It can be used by everyone from scuba divers to scientists and yacht crew, who can survey the water beneath the boat from the deck: we envisage many different applications for the drone. Divers, for example, can send instructions to the drone (“Follow behind me, in front of me, alongside…”) using a remote controller. It is much the same as an airborne drone, only underwater!”

“The PAL-V we’re displaying at MYS is still a working prototype so this will be one of the very first times that the public has seen what we’re doing. It’s essentially ‘a car that flies and a plane that drives’! Owners will need a private pilot’s license to fly one, but we’ve set up a simulator at the show for all visitors to test out the experience and see how easy it can be to fly a PAL-V. It works on a gyroplane system with a foldable propeller to provide thrust. On the ground, the PALV is much like any other car on the road and can be driven legally with a number plate. MYS represents our perfect clientele — the PAL-V will retail for 500,000€ — and it’s a great chance for us to reach out to potential buyers and the media.”

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anthénea Communications Manager Murielle Cheftel (46) from Angers, France

seair CEO Richard Forest (47) from Lorient, France

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“We had our world premiere at the Salon du Luxe Paris in July, but MYS is the first time that we’re presenting the Anthénea concept to the yachting industry. Anthénea is a floating habitat of 50m2 — around 35m2 interior space plus a 15m2 solarium — that can house 12 people. It is entirely self-sufficient in terms of energy, with a small motor powered by the sun. The model we’re exhibiting at MYS is priced at 500,000€ inc. VAT.

MYS is the reference for yachting events so we’re very pleased to be here. Prince Albert paid our stand a visit and said, “Yes! This is the way things should be going!” The Anthénea is currently anchored off the Côte de Granit Rose in brittany. We didn’t have time to bring the habitat flottant (floating habit) down to Monaco for the show, but we’re hoping to take it over to the Miami boat Show!”

“Our first major event was Cannes Yachting Festival in early September and we had such a good reception that we thought, “Why not Monaco too?!” MYS gives companies like ours an enormous amount of visibility and it’s an excellent opportunity to present our unique product. We’re specialists in designing flying sail or motor boats that are equipped with our integrated piloted foil systems. Foils have, of course, been used be-

fore, but our systems allow vessels of all kinds to fly lastingly above the waves from speeds of 15 knots so it’s highly adaptable. Fuel consumption is reduced by up to 30% using our methods, but the most noticeable result is almost total stability and comfort for passengers and crew. Designer Louis-Marie de Castelbajac collaborated with us on the Ortolan, an evolved Zodiac RIb. It will retail for 45,000€.” novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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monTecarlo Jazz Weekend plans sorted! rom 16th November to 2nd December, the Opéra Garnier Monte-Carlo will host a series of international acts under the continuing high patronage of Prince Albert II, of which the Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival has enjoyed since its creation in 2006. “This festivals allows us to discover and rediscover the biggest stars in jazz as well as the finest talents of today in a marvellous setting – a veritable temple of music,” says artistic director of Société des bains de Mer Jean-René Palacio. “The festival reflects the nature of jazz: open to all musical trends, always respectful of tradition and inspired by the music of the world.” Organisers have selected Marcus Miller (pictured) as the opening act of the festival on 16th November. He will present extracts from his latest album. Cory Henry & The Funk Apostles are also set to perform on the same night. The following evening, pianist and organist Laurent Coulondre will play ahead of a special performance by Stacey kent who is to be accompanied by the Philharmonic Orchestra of Monte-Carlo. Sirius Plan and Glaswegian pop-rock band Texas will provide the soundtrack for 24th November ahead of Dhafer Youssef and The

Corea/Gadd band on the next night. For the final weekend of music, expect Django Memories Project and Diego El Cigala (30th November), James Carter’s Elektric Outlet and Les Triplettes de belleville (1st December), and finally The Puppini Sisters and Scott bradlee’s Postmodern Jukebox (2nd December). “The programme has been designed in the image

of the 11 years of the festival,” adds Palacio, “and shows how jazz is always diverse, uninhibited and free.” All concerts begin at 8.30pm and cost 80€. Reservations are highly recommended in advance of the shows as seats always sell out! For the full programme, please visit: www.montecarlolive.com

elTon John celeBraTes 50 Years of music An audience at the Grimaldi Forum awaits & much more rench Riviera locals consider him one of their own and he’s owned a villa on Nice’s Mont boron for many years. With such a connection to the region, it seems only right that music icon Elton John has chosen Monaco as the seat of his 50th anniversary concert on 6th December. Tickets to the show have all but sold out, although there may be a few VIP places left for the lucky ones!

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On 8th and 9th November, the Monaco International Clubbing Show will be taking place at the Grimaldi Forum for the eighth time and guests can expect performances from some of the most well-known DJs in the world. TEDxMonteCarlo is also returning for a full day of conferences with international speakers on 11th November. The legendary Philharmonic Orchestra of Vienna is making an appearance in the early New Year

on 12th January. Young Venezuelan prodigy Gustavo Dudamel – a man known for his creativity and willingness to embrace new technologies – will be directing the orchestra. Also coming in 2018 is the great summer exhibition: between 7th July and 9th September, the Grimaldi Forum will honour 2,500 years of goldsmithing in Ancient Egypt. For the full programme, please visit www.grimaldiforum.com

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fêTe naTionale Monaco celebrates its National Day he history of Monaco’s National Day goes back to 1857, when then-Prince Charles III designated a day of feasting and celebrations for his people. Upon his ascension to the throne in 2005, Prince Albert II decided to continue the 19th November tradition, which falls on Saint Rainier’s Day, in memory of his father, Prince Rainier III, who had died earlier that year. This year’s celebrations will begin, as always, with a Te Deum at the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-Immaculée in the Le Rocher quartier of the principality. Monegasque citizens are invited to participate in the ceremony, which is attended by the entire Grimaldi family. During the weeks in the run-up to the National Day, the famous Foire d’Attractions in Port Hercule is open to all in the region who wish to visit. From traditional merry go-rounds and swings to the Fun House and a Smurf-

themed experience, children of all ages are well-catered for, but the fair doesn’t stop there. Terrifying sky-high rides, bumper cars and countless others will seduce even the biggest adrenaline junkies. New this year is Aviator, a fastpaced and thrilling ride aimed at the bravest teens and adults among us – are you feeling wild enough? Alongside the rides is a wide selection of gourmet food stands with classic fairground favourites like waffles, churros, burgers and toffee apples, but prepare for a few mouth-watering surprises too… The Mairie is optimising security controls, aiming to ‘make every effort to strike balance between safety and friendliness’, and it is advised to bring minimal belongings so as to avoid queues at the entrance points on the lower and upper boundaries of Quai Albert Ier. Entrance is free, but be sure to bring a good pocket full of change for the rides and games!  © CHARLY GALLO

novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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conTrasTs at ﬁrst sight, one notices the aesthetics. The second glance reveals a more disturbing view. Yves Hayat reveals his take on the world at the international Perfume Museum of Grasse.

What does perfume have to do with the horrors of our time? ves Hayat’s work is one of contrast: you either love it or hate it. The contemporary artist has taken charge of the winter exhibition at the International Perfume Museum of Grasse (MIP) and, exclusively for one of the most visited museums in the Alpes-Maritimes, he has created a series of works that focus on perfume yet are

By AILA STÖCKMANN

 Photo 1

IDÉES NOIRES

 Photo 2

YVES HAYAT

 Photo 3

PLACES DE LA RÉVOLUTION  Photo 4

COCO CHANEL CRIES

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unlike any others the establishment has exhibited thus far. The most eye-catching are the bottles, an unmistakable ode to the world-renowned industry of luxury perfume, but Hayat has filled the vials with black liquid. The labels read Help, Solitude, Depression and Tristesse. Another collection shows bombed out houses in the background. Yves, who was born in Egypt and has a studio in Saint-Laurent-du-Var, has glued onto them labels reading Wanted, Lost or Missing. beneath is a description of a plant that provides the fragrance for a perfume. On one photo that the artist has edited, fashion icon Coco Chanel cries. The uniform perfume flacons aligned on a shelf are marked ‘Extract from…’ with the names of various countries, such as Russia, Libya, Turkey and China. In each of the bottles, there is a paper strip onto which fragrances are typically sprayed by perfumeries for sample smelling, but this time note the names of places where a revolution has taken place in the recent past. 21 works and three installations can be found in the approximately 200 square meters of the basement vaults of the town villa, which are reserved for the special exhibitions. Yves Hayat loves the game of contrasts. He places luxury at the expense of luxury, juxtaposing past and present, beauty and horror, and indifference with fanaticism. “My work should effect the viewer and touch the conscience,” explains the artist, who first came to the Côte d'Azur at the age of 10. He leaves the interpretation of his works to the visitor: “This certainly has to do with my time in the advertising industry,” smiles Hayat, who is of a refreshingly heartfelt character, which in the view of his art, we did not necessarily expect. After attending the Fine Arts School in Nice, Hayat turned to advertising in the early 1970s, founded his own agency, and returned to art only 20 years later – with concentrated power. For more than two decades, he has been exhibiting internationally in New York, Rome, Paris, London, basel, Cologne and Vienna. For his works, Yves Hayat uses various mediums, materials and techniques – all undoubtedly influenced by his time in advertising. Unlike in the PR sector, his art always has a topical relevance with current affairs. Hard news is used in his own striking way: “I’ll admit that it is more fun to manipulate reality instead of mapping it.” He has been preparing for the exhibition in Grasse for

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unesco applicaTion Perfume to become world cultural heritage

over a year and is particularly happy that here, he confesses, his work isn’t censored: “That doesn’t happen everywhere…” This is thanks to museum director Olivier Quiquempois, who is in the middle of his fourth season in Grasse and has put much energy into reviving the museum landscape of the world’s perfume capital. The MIP is certainly the smallest of his problems with 100,000 visitors per year: a strong figure for city with a population of 53,000. More than half of all visitors are foreigners; an attribute the museum shares with its larger cousins in Paris. Locals barely come here. The plan this winter, therefore, is to fill the museum with local visitors by attracting them with unique and special contemporary exhibitions. “These are our showcase,” explains Olivier. “We are trying to reinvent ourselves with each new show and provide the visitor with a new experience and moment of reflection.” 

EXHIBITION ‘Perfume, that obscure object of desire’ 27th October to 7th January international Perfumery Museum (MiP) in Grasse Open daily from 10am to 5.30pm entrance fee + exhibition: 4€ www.museesdegrasse.com www.hayat-art.com

The savoir-faire of the Pays de Grasse’s perfume industry is a step closer to being placed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. The application, which has been considered for a decade, has now been handed over to the organisation. Former mayor and senator for the Alpes-Maritimes Jean-Pierre Leleux has led the project under the Patrimoine Vivant du Pays de Grasse association. Intangible cultural heritage – unlike natural heritage, which has been frequently added to since 1978 – has only been a part of UNESCO since 2003. Its forms include:  Oral traditions and forms of expression (including language as the bearer of intangible cultural heritage);  Performing arts;  Social customs, rituals and festivals;  knowledge and practices regarding nature and the universe; and  Traditional craftsmanship. Cultural forms of expressions on the list represent global cultural diversity and an important testimony to human creativity. The list is intended to contribute towards a greater visibility and growing awareness of intangible cultural heritage. In Grasse, the focus is on perfume knowledge and expertise from the cultivation of fragrant plants and flowers to their processing, distillation and the composition of perfumes. Whether or not Grasse’ unique savoir-faire in the industry will gain a UNESCO title remains to be seen, but it is hoped that at the end of a lengthy admission process, it will achieve just that by the end of 2018.

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christmas markets From traditional Provençal markets to seasonal chestnut fairs and the quintessential Foire aux Santons for which Provence is known, there’s plenty going on in the French riviera this winter to warm your festive spirits. Grab a glass of vin chaud and head out into the region with family and friends – we’ll meet you in the square!

CHRISTMAS MARKET 21st December CHRISTMAS CONCERT by the Orchestre de Cannes from 8.30pm in the Eglise NotreDame d'Espérance Châteauneuf 16th December TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS CONCERT by the Ensemble Vocal Cant'Ouvèze and Los Caprichos from 6pm in Place de la Mairie Golfe-Juan 16th to 17th December CHRISTMAS MARKET on Avenue de la Poste Grasse 2nd to 3rd December CHRISTMAS MARKET in Place de la Mairie La Colle-sur-Loup 10th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the town centre

Antibes Juan-les-Pins 2nd to 3rd December SALON SUCRE ET CHOCOLAT AT THE PALAIS DES CONGRÈS 17th December FÊTE DE LA BÛCHE DU SAFRANIER from 5pm in Place du Safranier Biot 12th December FÊTE DE LA CHÂTAIGNE in the village 16th December to 17th February CHRISTMAS MARKET in the village Cabris 16th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the village Cagnes-sur-Mer 18th November FÊTE DE LA CHÂTAIGNE in the town centre 16th to 24th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in Place de Gaulle Cannes 1st December to 7th January novemBer / DecemBer 2017

Levens 10th December CHRISTMAS MARKETS in the Foyer Rural Lorgues 11th to 12th November ENGLISH CHRISTMAS MARKET at Château berne 18th to 19th November PROVENÇAL CHRISTMAS MARKET at Château berne 25th to 26th November TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS MARKET at Château berne Marseille 18th November to 7th January CHRISTMAS MARKET on the Quai de la Fraternité 9th to 17th December ARTISANAL MARKET on the Cours Julien Monaco 6th December to 7th January CHRISTMAS MARKET, ice skating rink and entertainment in Port Hercule Mouans-Sartoux 10th November to 24th December FOIRE AUX SANTONS at the

Médiathèque 3rd December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the town centre 16th December FETE DE LA LUMIÈRE from 7pm in Place des Anciens Combattants Nice 2nd December to 1st January CHRISTMAS MARKET, ice skating rink, ferris wheel and children’s entertainment at the Jardin Albert 1er Santa’s Grotto and free entertainment in the Théâtre de Verdure Igloo village on the Promenade du Paillon Nativity scene in Place Rosetti Opio 17th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the town centre Roquebillière 3rd December CHRISTMAS MARKET in Place de la Mairie Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 16th December LE DÎNER AUX CHANDELLES at 6.30pm in the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild Saint Tropez 8th December to 7th January CHRISTMAS VILLAGE with ice skating rink, illuminations, Father Christmas’ sea arrival, nativity scene, concerts, chocolate fair and entertainment in Place des Lices Seillans 26th November CHRISTMAS MARKET in Place du Thouron and the Salles du Cercle et du Couvent Tourrettes-sur-Loup 3rd December CHRISTMAS MARKET in Place de la Libération 16th December Choral concert at 6.30pm in Eglise Saint-Grégoire Vallauris 9th December

CHRISTMAS MARKET in the town centre Villeneuve-Loubet 8th to 13th December FÊTE DU SANTON at the Salle J. Donon 10th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the village 17th December CHRISTMAS MARKET in the port and bain de Noël on Plage de la Fighière

fesTive lingo Tidings & useful phrases en français Joyeux Noël = Merry Christmas Joyeuses Fêtes = Happy holidays Meilleurs Vœux = best wishes Bonne Année = Happy New Year Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année de la part de = Season’s greetings from La veille de Noël = Christmas Eve Le jour de Noël = Christmas Day La Fête des Rois = Epiphany/Twelfth Night La Saint-Sylvestre = New Year’s Eve La crèche = nativity scene Le gui = mistletoe Le père Noël = Father Christmas/Santa Claus Un bonhomme de neige = a snowman Une bûche de Noël = yule log Une carte de vœux = greetings card Chanter des chants de Noël = to sing Christmas carols Réveillonner = to celebrate Christmas/New Year

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a magical candlelit dinner At the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild ike every village square in the south of France, this December, the picturesque town of Valbonne is celebrating Christmas in its own intimate and family-friendly style. What is particularly special about this place is the warmest of the community spirit as locals and expats alike head out to share a glass of vin chaud and wish each other festive tidings and the best for the New Year to come. Christmas festivities begin on Thursday

21st December with mulled wine and hot chocolate in the popular Place des Arcades at 5pm (also available on 22nd and 23rd) followed by traditional songs by the Orchestre de Mathieu bompart. The weekly market that takes place every Friday morning has been moved to the Vallis bona carpark for 22nd December and in its usual location in the town centre will be a Marché de Noël with stands from over 70 participants between 10am and 9pm. On the Cours Carnot and Place Vallis bona, activities and workshops for children have

been organised by the municipality for Friday and Saturday as well as a carousel (paid) and photos with Father Christmas (from 2pm to 6pm). Don’t forget to pass by the farm too! In the Pré des Arts, visitors to Valbonne can expect a range of themed performances, including a comedy sketch by Patrik Cottet Moine, dancing and choral singing (22nd to 24th). A magical gala will also be held at 8.30pm on Saturday 23rd.  For the full programme of events in and around Valbonne, please visit: www.ville-valbonne.fr.

chrisTmas & communiTY spiriT Monaco celebrates its National Day ike every village square in the south of France, this December, the picturesque town of Valbonne is celebrating Christmas in its own intimate and family-friendly style. What is particularly special about this place is the warmest of the community spirit as locals and expats alike head out to share a glass of vin chaud and wish each other festive tidings and the best for the New Year to come. Christmas festivities begin on Thursday 21st December with mulled wine and hot chocolate in the popular Place des Arcades at 5pm (also available on 22nd and 23rd) followed by traditional songs by the Orchestre de Mathieu bompart. The weekly market that takes place every Friday morning has been moved to the Vallis bona carpark for 22nd December and in its usual location in the town centre will be a Marché de Noël with stands from over 70 participants between 10am and 9pm. On the Cours Carnot and Place Vallis bona, activities and workshops for children have been organised by the municipality for Friday and Saturday as well as a carousel (paid) and photos with Father Christmas (from 2pm to 6pm). Don’t forget to pass by the farm too! In the Pré des Arts, visitors to Valbonne can expect a range of themed performances, including a comedy sketch by Patrik Cottet Moine, dancing and choral singing (22nd to 24th). A magical gala will also be held at 8.30pm on Saturday 23rd.  For the full programme of events in and around Valbonne, please visit: www.ville-valbonne.fr.

novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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a classical chrisTmas Ballet, opera & theatre in the magical cultural establishments of the Côte d’Azur

What? A touching tribute to the man and their intimate relationship, Jane birkin performs birkin/Gainsbourg: Le Symphonique with the Orchestre de Toulon and accompanied by conductor Didier benetti and artistic director Philippe Lerichomme. Japanese pianist and composer Nobuyuki Nakajima has reinterpreted 20 of Serge Gainsbourg’s classics, which are sung by the iconic birkin in a beautiful homage.

When? 15th December 2017 © Davide Livermore & Gio Forma

Where? Grand Théâtre de Provence, Aix-en-Provence

What? It’s been over 80 years since this opera was first performed in the principality and more than three decades since its most recent showing. This year’s Adriana Lecouvreur is an opera in four acts by Francesco Cilea to an Italian libretto by Arturo Colautti, and is being displayed as part of annual celebrations of the Fête National Monégasque. Spectators at the first of the three performances are granted the privilege by the exclusive invitation of Prince Albert II. The historical opera is a new co-production between the Opéra de Saint-étienne and the Opéra de Marseille, and features the choir of the Opéra de Monte-Carlo and the principality’s philharmonic orchestra.

When? 19th to 26th November 2017

Where? Grimaldi Forum, Monaco

What? A romantic duo of ballet performances: Roméo et Juliette with choreography by Serge Lifar and éric Vu-An; and La Sylphide (The Sylph) with Dinna bjørn’s take on Auguste bournonville’s interpretation (believed to be one of the world's oldest surviving ballets).

When? 23rd to 31st December 2017

Where? Opéra Nice Côte d’Azur, Nice novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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What?

Welcome in the New Year with a two-act performance of William Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew. Featuring choreography by Les ballets de Monte-Carlo’s artistic director Jean-Christophe Maillot and music by Dimitri Chostakovitch, this version premiered at the bolshoi Theatre in Moscow in 2014. It has since been performed around the world.

Often described as the ‘perfect musical’, My Fair Lady has it all. In this new production — a collaboration between the Opéra de Marseille and the Opéra de Lausanne — the timeless story of Eliza Doolittle, a Cockney flower girl, and Professor Henry Higgins, a phoneticist, is played out in two acts with the songs in English and dialogue in French. A conference on American musicals will be held prior to the concert.

When?

28th December 2017 to 5th January 2018

30th December 2017 to 7th January 2018

Where?

Grimaldi Forum, Monaco

Opéra Municipal, Marseille

novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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pool parTY With the launch of his photographic book Pool Party, Jean – or Johnny – Pigozzi gives us a unique insight into the world of the über celebrity. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

Vintage & A List photography by Pigozzi By ROLF LIFFERS & ELSA CARPENTER

ou require more than just a famous face to be invited to party at Johnny Pigozzi’s swimming pool on the Cap d’Antibes. You must also accept to be photographed and have the images published at any time later. Yet there is a sense of privacy and whimsy about the shots taken at Villa Dorane. As Pi-

gozzi says himself, he hides his camera behind a tree and out of sight: “I do not want my guests to feel embarrassed… I do not photograph anyone in compromising situations like taking drugs or kissing the wrong woman!” Many of the attractive and rich visitors do not mind being the subject of Pigozzi’s work if they are being entertained and spoilt at this iconic address. They are by no means minor league celebrities either and, over the decades, Pigozzi has photographed Liz Taylor (and a fluffy Maltese), Dennis Hopper, Calvin klein, Helmut Newton, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas and a very young Woody Allen. Super models are forever features, such as Naomi Campbell and The body, Elle Macpherson. “It proves that these people have humour,” says the successful businessman and art collector. “I only want to have cheerful and creative people around me. No grumpy, left-wing intellectuals.” bono is one of his favourite people to shoot: “He looks good and is very chatty.” Mick Jagger is ‘very well-read and attracts beautiful women’. Giovanni Agnelli is pictured in his swimming trunks and whispering with koo Stark. There is no lack of the A List in Pigozzi’s kidneyshaped pool. What they find so appealing about the Simca heir’s parties is subjective. Elton John admits that he doesn’t know much about the man behind the camera, only that he ‘always does these pictures’ and describes him as ‘one of the greatest characters in the world’. Cannes Film Festival is one of the busiest times of the year for the swimming pool, but Pigozzi also shoots at different locations with his handy Leica camera strung around his neck. Sometimes his guests play the photographer – “They all become the paparazzi, just on the other side of the camera,” muses Matthias Harder, the head of berlin’s Helmut Newton Foundation, which is hosting an exhibition of Johnny’s snapshots until 19th November. “It is as if Pigozzi is showing us the real, inaccessible backstage area,” Harder continues, “except we cannot hear the music that often accompanies the scene. Sometimes we can look beneath the surface of the water and see half-naked women’s bodies and the abs of handsome men.” Another part of Pigozzi’s success is that he likes to conceal the dates of the photographs: “If I ask my guests years later if I can publish the images, they usually agree because they look younger.” For every small black and white photo, Pigozzi charges 4,500€ and produces just 15 copies, two of which he retains himself. Success runs in the family of this globe-trotting bon vivant; his parents founded French automobile brand in 1934, which Pigozzi and his siblings sold to Chrysler in 1963. In the last decade, he has launched his own fashion brand and franchise of boutiques, LimoLand. In addition to his own work, Pigozzi is an avid collector of pieces by young and contemporary Japanese artists. His extensive collection of modern African art has also been exhibited by major institutions around the world, including the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco. 

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 Photo 1 ELLE MACPHERSON, 1991 © Jean Pigozzi  Photo 2 SELF PORTRAIT, 1988 © Jean Pigozzi  Photo 3 NAOMI CAMPBELL, 1993 © Jean Pigozzi  Photo 4 HELMUT NEWTON, 1993 © Jean Pigozzi  Photo 5 BONO, THE EDGE & JACK NICHOLSON, 1994 © Jean Pigozzi  Photo 6 MICHAEL DOUGLAS, 1990 © Jean Pigozzi

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“i haTe selfies” An interview with Johnny Pigozzi By ANNA-MARIA DEUTSCHMANN

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From international singers to the world’s top models, Jean Pigozzi has taken exclusive photographs of the jet-set community for decades. Now exhibiting his works at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, we discover the legendary pool parties that have taken place at his villa in the south of France.

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d’Antibes. What do you associate with the place? I know every inch of the south of France. Since I was three years old, I have spent every summer at my parents’ holiday home. I paddled in the pool as a toddler! This exhibition and my book, Pool Party, are – so to speak – a tribute to one of the most important places in my life. You have invited countless worldfamous stars to your home over the years. What goes on at a Pigozzi pool party? I’ll have to disappoint you… There are no wild parties, no drug abuse. Most of my guests are good friends who I have invited to dine with me by the pool, such as Robert de Niro or Mick Jagger, bono and Michael Douglas. Some of the most photographed women in the world have jumped into my pool: Naomi Campbell, Penelope Cruz, Uma Thurman, Sharon Stone and even Elizabeth Taylor.

Mr Pigozzi, when you were last in Berlin, you were presenting your Pigozzi & the Paparazzi exhibition. You have returned again with more photographs in your luggage. What is it about taking photographs of famous people that attracts you? I like to have interesting people in front of the lens. It’s simple: you can’t be an idiot if you’re in the limelight. To survive the harsh realities of showbusiness, you have to be intelligent and very self-confident. This includes having an enormous amount of power and charisma as well as that certain something. These characteristics can be seen in the faces of successful stars. That’s what drives me. If I was taking pictures of taxi drivers or hot dog sellers, who would be interested? Many of your photographs have been taken at your villa on the Cap

How does your photography differ from that of other star photographers? My photos are anything but posed. They have nothing to do with paparazzi or modelling shots. My friends could be at their own pool with their showbiz mask taken away. They trust me and know that I’m not a bad paparazzo who will shoot them in unfavourable poses. The images are simply snapshots that have been taken at casual summer parties with good food and good drinks. No posing and certainly no selfies. I hate selfies like those on Instagram today. People must really think that they are so important that they have to constantly share their face with the world. Your own Instagram has a humorous theme and you discuss, for example, your dislike of kale. What is your issue with it? That green stuff is disgusting. I can’t imagine how anyone can eat this vile vegetable. One food after another suddenly becomes fashionable: quinoa, chia, green smoothies with kale… It’s just annoying. My ‘kale hate’ on Instagram is more of a small art project. I wanted to try out how intensively and creatively you can play with a single word. Ivanka Trump features in one of your Instagram posts. Would you like to photograph the US’ First Daughter at your pool? I met her at an event last year. She’s pretty, but I don’t find her particularly appealing and

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nor do I want to photograph her. Actually, she didn’t really care about me. I’d rather be watching Angela Merkel than Ivanka Trump! When you know as many celebrities as you do, you must know a lot about the world of stars and starlets. Do you spontaneously hear anecdotes at your pool parties? It’s always a highlight when one of my guests arrives with a helicopter. Once, a friend arrived with a terribly loud helicopter. The noise was deafening. Later, a girlfriend was sitting at a table next to Mr Heineken and was taking photos of her neighbours. Her camera made a loud sound when rewinding and she apologised to those around her. “Oh Madam,” Heineken replied, “that’s no problem at all. You should have been here earlier. There was an arrogant arsehole who landed his crappy helicopter with an almighty crash.” My friend turned rather red and said, “Oops, that was me!” You were close friends with Helmut Newton. Did you collaborate? I knew Helmut and his wife, June, very well. We met about 40 years ago in Paris and when he finally moved to Monaco, he came for dinner regularly. He often photographed alongside me and shot Mick Jagger and Naomi Campbell at the pool. I learned a lot from him; he was a good friend and an excellent photographer. He had a great sense for location and the best light. His photographs radiate a unique atmosphere. Can you remember taking your first photo? I was nine or 10 years old. At first, I photographed my dog. My father was a passionate hobby photographer and he taught me too. When he died, I was just 12 years old. My only consolation at the time was that I was able to inherit his precious Leica. Ever since then, I have documented my life through photography. I have to say, I’m dyslexic – I can barely read my own writing myself – so I lead a diary in the form of photographs. Images reveal so much about a life; you see the people you’ve met, the women you’ve loved. In your new book Pool Party, we see many bikini perfect beauties, but also older gentlemen are immortalised. Perfection has never been important to me in photography. There are many old men with little hair who are beautiful. Look at me! I’m an old monsieur, but I’m still attractive. 

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picasso & The minoTaur By SARAH HYDE

DISCOVER THE LEGEND Top photo BARQUE DE NAÏADES ET FAUNE BLESSÉ, 1937 Left photo PICASSO WEARING A BULL’S HEAD INTENDED FOR BULLFIGHTERS’ TRAINING, LA CALIFORNIE, CANNES, 1959 Right photo MINOTAURE, 1958 Far right photo MINOTAURE DANS UNE BARQUE SAUVANT UNE FEMME, 1937 Photo use thanks to the Gagosian Gallery

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1932: Année Erotique Until 11th February 2018 Musée Picasso, Paris Picasso at the Suite Vollard From 17th November 2017 to 29th april 2018 Centre d’art la Malmaison, Cannes

icasso’s use of the mythological creature the Minotaur is a fascinating subject that was expertly considered in the summer exhibition of the Gagosian Gallery on Grosvenor Hill in London earlier this year. The catalogue for the show makes excellent reading for those who could not attend the event in the English capital, which was curated by one of the greatest Picasso experts, Sir John Richardson, who also has a long association with our region in the south of France. It is beautifully illustrated and gives an amazing insight into Picasso’s portrayal of the Minotaur, a motif that can be followed like Ariadne's thread through the artist's oeuvre. Understanding his portrayal of the halfman half-beast will make visits to the major Picasso shows this winter in the French capital – 1932: Année érotique at the Musée Picasso Paris – and the display of the Vollard Suite at the Centre d' Art de La Malmaison in Cannes (where 16 of the 80 prints reveal this mythical creature) even more rewarding. Picasso is known for his use of alter egos and autobiographical elements in his work. He notably used the harlequin throughout his career, but the Minotaur talks of the animal within the man and the artist began to experiment with the Minotaur during a mid-life time of conflict. A brutal animal with a bull's head and Herculean body, the Minotaur sometimes dominates and devours the women he pursues and yet at other times, he is vulnerable and needy. The Minotaur series reflect the intense agonies, passions and turmoil of a particularly difficult period in Picasso's life, but perhaps also provides universal insight into the torment of the male psyche, especially during middle age.

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Winter arts programme What? A mini theatres exhibition by Pierrick Sorin: stepping into the world of this artist is enchanting and even jubilatory. He offers playful sketches full of humour and poetry paired with holograms.

When? Until 10th January 2018

The period in which Picasso created his Minotaur has been described by the artist as the worst in his life; he was drawn away from his marriage by his animal desire for his young mistress. Did these images allow Picasso to express his anxiety and pain as he was torn between his lust for Marie-Thérèse Walter, who became pregnant with his child; Maya whom is now an old lady herself and recently introduced herself at the Paris exhibition as ‘the naughty one’; and his wife, Olga khokhlova, who refused to grant him a divorce? The uncertainty of his life was compounded by the fact that his native Spain was plunged into the distress of civil war. Picasso began working with mythological subjects when he worked on series of prints concerning Ovid’s Metamorphoses. The Minotaur is included in 16 out of 80 prints of the Suite Vollard in Cannes’ Malmaison and represented a hugely successful and lucrative series that followed on from the Ovid collection. Although Picasso was not alone in his appropriation of this fantasy beast – he was a favourite of the Surrealist movement – the master clearly identified with the idea of the Minotaur and made it his own. The Minotaur presented by Picasso is his Doppelgänger. Although Picasso’s creature has the persona of a tormented soul, he is not confined to his maze in Crete like the legend. The artist has developed the character outside of his defining role and he has a whole new life inside the artist’s own. This Minotaur goes out into the world where he is seen sipping champagne, gazing at his gorgeous sleeping mistress and cavorting with up to three women at a time. He is insatiable; drunk on his own desire. Picasso’s Minotaur encompasses masculinity and the mid-life crisis; a character we can relate to and empathise with. He perhaps personifies a side of the artist that he would rather not acknowledge, but recognises nonetheless, and the Minotaur assumes a persona that Picasso would elaborate and play with throughout the next decade. Picasso alluded to the fact that the Minotaur was a kind of ‘diary of the time’, inviting the viewer to interpret the artist's life through the device of this character. Although in a man of Picasso's genius and complexity this seems a rather simplistic explanation, you can't help but wonder if the Minotaur becomes an almost scapegoat for the artist. 

What? Camera Camera! 22 galleries from New York to Paris and Seoul are installing videos and art works in bedrooms of the hotel for two days. A unique event, the collections will create an amusing and arty experience throughout the hotel, adding an extra dimension to this cultured address that offers guests artistic rooms and art installations in the bar, restaurant, garden and spa. Nearly 100 artists are to be represented in a single place during this contemporary art fair.

When? From 25th to 26th November 2017 Participating galleries: Air de Paris (Paris) Analix Forever (Geneva) Catherine Issert (Saint-Paul de Vence) Ceysson & benetière (Paris) Choi & Lager (Seoul) Claire Gastaud (Clermont-Ferrand) Dix9 (Paris) Double V (Marseille) Escougnou - Cetraro (Paris) Espace à Vendre (Nice)

Eva Hober (Paris) Eva Vautier (Nice) Galerie Fille du Calvaire (Paris) Galerie Porte Avion (Marseille) La Mauvaise Réputation (bordeaux) Michael Petronko (New York) Moving Art (Nice) Sintitulo (Mougins) Snap project (Lyon) Un-spaced (Paris) Véronique Smagghe (Paris) Vincent Sator (Paris)

Hôtel Windsor 11 Rue Dalpozzo, Nice - Tel. +33 (0)4 93 88 59 35 novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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The garDen of an organic chef

who lived on the coast, explains Anna Ferrari. “The Ligurians were here long before our knowledge; in the Middle Ages, monks farmed the terraces; and until the beginning of the 20th centuries, there were peasants here.” but since WWII, the almost inaccessible terrain has been largely untapped. For what was initially a lot of hard work, the Ferraris and their exclusive customer, Sari, now reap the benefits. Pesticides haven’t touched the soil for at least 70 years, meaning that the process of obtaining the organic certificate was hardly more than a formal one. The family hasn’t yet realised all of its plans, but in the future, there will also be fruit trees. The land, which is sheltered from the wind and enjoys full sun exposure, is mild enough for the famous lemons of Menton, for example. Paolo Sari’s ethos is clear: those who eat healthy live better. He is fully committed to his cause. This belief rang particularly true in October when he organised the third organic festival in Monaco’s port – a market with cooking demonstrations and plenty of information about good food and sustainable agriculture. “As President Macron so aptly stated, there is no Plan b for nature and our planet,” the chef says. The pumpkins, by the way, are enjoying their last days in the warm autumn sun. In the next few weeks, they’ll end up in Sari’s kitchen: gnocchi à la courge and pumpkin ice cream to accompany a chocolate dessert! 

High above the principality, an ode to all things bio is ﬂourishing By AILA STÖCKMANN

fear of heights is going to cause more than a bit of trouble if you are going to visit the vegetable garden of Monaco’s celebrated organic chef Paolo Sari. A seemingly vertical single-track road leads up to 650 metres above sea level where – on the cliffs that impose over the principality – a vast plot of fruit and vegetables is flourishing. At this time of year, pumpkins are growing ripe and round, but in the summer, you’ll find everything from tomatoes to peppers, fennel, courgettes, spinach, peas, beans and aromatic plants such as rosemary, thyme, mint and edible flowers. Monaco’s Elsa restaurant is the only Michelin star address in the world to use exclusively organic produce. High above the principality, chef Paolo Sari has found a haven for his locally cultivated and seasonal produce: Domaine de l’Agerbol, which is run by Anna Ferrari, her former motorbike racer husband Virginio and their daughter. Their farm, for which three horses provide the manure, is dedicated to the acclaimed chef. For centuries, the terraced land above Monaco and Roquebrune has served as the grain cellar for the people

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3  Photo 1

THE WORLD’S ONLY MICHELIN-STARRED ORGANIC CHEF  Photo 2

THE FARM OWNS SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF MONACO  Photo 3

PUMPKINS GROWING RIPE AND ROUND IN THE SUN

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Originally from sleepy Suﬀolk, Lewis moved to Cannes in January 2015 in search of something meaningful to ﬁll the predictable void of postgraduate life. Between the ubiquitous palm trees of the sun-soaked Côte d’azur and the terraces of Cannes’ numerous restaurants, he thinks he has found that something…

“Don’T seT fire To mY fooD nexT Time!” By LEWIS LONGMAN

Cannes: Que sera, sera at New York New York ve always been somewhat on the fence regarding New York New York in Cannes. Ostensibly a very glamourous restaurant, oozing style and a certain upmarket swanky-ness, yet I’ve never been totally convinced by its overpriced food and below-par service. One of the first times I ate there, I ordered a rack of lamb, which was flambéed table side in Jack Daniels. Ferocious flames raised high out into the restaurant, as if the devil himself was trying to escape from the dead lamb’s carcass, and the dining room momentarily paused and became fixated on the spectacle that was unravelling before their eyes. Unfortunately, I was a smoker at the time and was not able to blow out my burning dinner quickly, leaving me with nothing more than charred lamb and a lack of breath. At 28€, it was a hefty price to pay. but this experience has not stopped me returning on several occasions as it’s a favourite spot of many friends and I can’t deny that it does have a certain alluring atmosphere. It’s the kind of restaurant where it seems almost appropriate to bribe the Maitre D’ to get a table facing the Palais des Festivals – something I have never done mind you, but it certainly wouldn’t seem out of place.

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The first thing one notices on arriving is the abundance of staff. It’s a human chain of workers fulfilling essentially superfluous roles: a lady at the door hands you over to another lady with a clipboard, who then leads you to your table where a young man, often with fear and uncertainty etched across his face, sits you at said table before leaving you alone for at least 15 minutes. It’s about enough time to try and make some sense of the senseless circus around you. That said, once the food does finally find its way through the jungle of limbs and tables, it is often very good. While the steaks are served with nothing at all – even chips must be paid for – the quality of meat is second to none and you can get a prime cut of Aberdeen Angus for 95€ (needless to say, I can’t yet afford to indulge in such extravagant things). The first time I had the Argentinian entrecôte – considerably cheaper at 29€ – I declared that it was the best steak I had ever eaten, and it probably was. The Chinatown Salad is another favourite, with strips of chicken and prawn forming a double act as unlikely as the EU’s chief negotiator, Michel barnier, and brexit Secretary David Davis arm-in-arm and blasting out a rendition of Que sera, sera at Eurovision. Washed down with a glass of Chablis in the sun and the jagged silhouettes of Le Suquet leaning over you, it’s all rather pleasant. New York New York doesn’t just excel with food – the bar, which stretches throughout the restaurant, has an impressive cocktail list and the numerous bar staff seem to know their stuff. It makes a refreshing change from a 20-something year old barman who couldn’t care less about your drink nor your problems you insist on sharing. Yes, I am talking about my former self. It goes without saying that my first visit to New York New York was an expensive disappointment and a generally underwhelming evening out. Though since then, albeit reluctantly, I have returned enough times to actually be convinced by this place. While it is perhaps overpriced and the service is undoubtedly slow, the restaurant possesses an atmosphere that makes the whole dining experience feel fancy without being pretentious... Just don’t set fire to my food next time!  novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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The Blue Coast Brewing Company By ELSA CARPENTER Photos ED W IMAGES

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arTisanal BreWerY opens in nice

nspired by the azure sea and skies of the French Riviera, Natasha FrostSavio and husband Roberto have founded a brewery in the Saint Isidore industrial zone of Nice: blue Coast brewing Company. The couple say they developed their artisanal concept after watching friends successfully launch a brewery in San Diego, California, which quickly gained prominence among surfers in the region. They translated the idea of

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using famous faces as ambassadors for the brand to the Côte d’Azur and set about contacting Formula 1 racing drivers such as Jenson button (pictured) and Daniel Ricciardo, cyclists like Tiffany Cromwell and Thor Hushovd, and rally driver Andreas Mikkelsen. These wellknown sporting personalities have all invested in the blue Coast brewing Company as well as the wife of David Coulthard, belgian presenter karen Minier-Coulthard. From the factory in the north of Nice’s eco valley, the team produces four beers – a blonde pale ale, a lager, an IPA and a ‘session ale’ – for 50 establishments between Saint Tropez and Monaco. For the moment, the beers (all 4.9%) are only available in kegs, but the company is working towards selling their craft beers in individual units. Natasha and Roberto hope to produce 600,000 litres by the end of next year. “The production concept of artisanal beer has started in France,” said Natasha at the launch in October, “but it hasn’t had the explosive success that craft beers have in other countries.” However, craft beers do certainly seem to have found their place in the French Riviera and the blue Coast brewing Company has a strong market competitor in the form of Colgan’s brewery, which is based in MouansSartoux and was launched over three years ago by two Australian brothers. The superficial point of difference for blue Coast is its celebrity endorsement and funding, but the truth is in the taste. We’ll have to try both! 

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The magician returns Le Bateleur on the Cours Saleya

here are many among us who would argue that Friday 13th is the wrong day to open a bar, but for Mela and Thady Nolan – the owners of successful chain Ma Nolan’s as well as Nice’s latest nightlife

establishment – superstition goes hand-in-hand with the quirky theme of Le bateleur. In fact, it has exactly the sense of the occult and alchemy that this beer specialist and cocktail is looking to create. Located on the Cours Saleya in the old town of Nice, Le bateleur takes its name from the Magician card in the old Marseillais tarot deck. The building used to be known by the same name and, as fans of Nice’s culture and heritage, Mela and Thady decided to delve back into the history of the place and bring their unique and magical concept into 2017. The dark and luxurious design is certainly an exciting departure from typical Niçois bars: spellbinding wallpaper creeps around a spiral staircase, hidden objets de curiosité await your discovery on every floor, and luxe furnishings in faux crocodile leather and dark metallics provide a comfortable and intriguing setting. Two pièces de résistance: a decadent pure white peacock and a beautiful four-metre long Chesterfield sofa in buttery toffee leather. “I wanted to create something different,” says Mela, who collaborated with local and international artisans on the project – a mix of british, Irish and French style that reflects the couple’s background – as well as an interior designer. “It’s a place with taste and character that is unlike anything else we have in Nice. It will essentially be a beer bar with 18 draught beers and 24 bottled

beers from breweries around the world, some craft. We also have an excellent list of alcohols on the shelves with brands not often seen in this region and we have beer tasting boards and a growler station so you can even take away a two-litre jug of your favourite beer. Our bar snacks include homemade pretzels and handmade pies with different fillings to pair with our beers, charcuterie and cheese plates to complement our wine selection.” Le bateleur also has access to be a very private and intimate terrace on the Cité du Parc between the Cours Saleya and the Promenade des Anglais. It’s yet another interesting feature of the place and Mela explains that over the next few years, the Ville de Nice will be developing this forgotten back alley into a tourist-friendly zone with bridges connecting the three streets. 

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Longchamp

la moDe

FOR THE SELFCONFIDENT WOMAN

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Chanel

IN THE NAME OF BEAUTY After launching a beauty store in Paris, Nice was next. At 1 Place Magenta, a store entirely devoted to the world of perfume, make-up, beauty products and sunglasses has just opened its doors. The 100sqm2 space, decorated in a typical monochrome Chanel style, is open Monday to Sunday and showcases a range of classic and new products, such as the recently launched Gabrielle perfume. 

Mademoiselle Longchamp – toted as the bag of the season and the quintessence of French style – this graphic, structured shoulder bag (which can also be worn cross-body) is made of calfskin leather. It is available in a neutral brown and fashion forward mustard. Its striking details include the emblematic clasp, detailing on the shoulder strap and an enamelled wax seal. 

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Omega

THE CRAWFORD FAMILY BECOME AMBASSADORS Model Cindy Crawford has been a brand ambassador for more than 20 years, but now she’s brought her children – daughter Kaia (16) and son Presley (18) – on board too. Together with their father Rande Gerber, the picture-perfect family has posed for renowned photographer Peter Lindbergh wearing a range of watches from the luxury Swiss watchmaker. 

Tiﬀany & Co.

OLD HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR The new collection City HardWear from Tiffany & Co. draws influences from Old Hollywood style icons such as Audrey Hepburn, but combines this timeless elegance with the spirit and energy of 21st century New York City. The line is available in 18-carat gold and sterling silver. Discover the pieces today at the boutique in Nice – it’s the only one in France outside of Paris! 

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impression à la main Screen painting by Seaholly

“THE STUDIO HOUSES A 200YEAR-OLD OLIVE OIL PRESS. IT PROVIDES A GOOD TALkING POINT TO bREAk THE ICE THAT SOME GALLERY SITUATIONS CAN CREATE. ”

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Scottish artist Holly Springham has travelled the world, but found new inspiration in the heart of Biot, a Ville et Métiers d’Art. By ELSA CARPENTER Photos JESSICA LIEU

orn into a family of artists, 35-yearold Holly Springham grew up in the picturesque borough of Argyll and bute near Loch Lomond in Scotland. With a father renowned for his contemporary and abstract paintings, and a mother who worked in textiles, she says she has always had a creative soul and a passion for the arts. At 17, Holly embarked on a short summer season aboard a yacht in the south of France, but ultimately returned to her native country to complete a bSC in Textiles and Fashion Design Management at the Heriot Watt University, where she achieved a First Class degree with Honours. Holly pursued a career as an artist and raised enough funds by selling her artwork to property developers and working as an event manager to spend the best part of four years travelling the world. From New Zealand to Asia, South America and Canada, she compiled a back catalogue of over 20,000 photographic images, which she continues to add to today and uses in her most recent endeavour: screen painting. With her travels behind her, Holly headed to Glasgow where she owned a flat, but only remained in the city for 10 days. “I was anxious to get moving again and my brother suggested going back into yachting,” she says from her studio in biot. “I’ve always felt a connection to Antibes and enjoyed the challenges of working on a boat. I’m a curious person so once I’d learnt ‘the ropes’, I’d move on to the next type of vessel: sail, motor, expedition… I’m fascinated by their interiors and got the creative fix I needed by doing the table displays on a 50m Feadship, for example, but it was never enough.” At the end of last summer, Holly decided to take another break from the yachting scene and discovered, by chance, a screen printing couple in the Var village of Seillans, near Fayence. She forged a close friendship with the elderly impression à la main artists and began to stay at their home twice a week, using their tools and equipment to produce her own designs. As spring rolled around, Holly realised that her career as a chief stewardess was over despite the ‘perks and pay’. She visited a dozen potential studios in towns known for their art traditions around the AlpesMaritimes, such as Vallauris and Antibes, before settling on biot after having lunch in the village square with a fellow screen printer. “He mentioned that a shop just across from the restaurant was available for rent,” she explains, “and I set up a meeting.” Holly was able to negotiate an

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agreement with the owners and took possession of the pure white 55m2 space at 12 Rue Saint Sébastien in June. “The studio houses a 200-year-old olive oil press and used to be a biscuit shop before me, making me think of the biscuit Factory in Newcastle, a cool contemporary art exhibition space in the North of England,” she continues. “From the moment I saw the space, I knew it was a perfect environment to showcase my work: the ancient and the new in perfect harmony in a bright, inciting space. I understand that my work is niche, therefore not appealing to all, so it's fantastic having such an iconic and rare piece of machinery in the studio. It also provides a good talking point to break the ice that some gallery situations can create. I sourced the interior decoration and furniture from a mix of brocante fairs and antiques shops as I wanted the studio to feel interesting and cosy; a place with a history.” Holly says she is driven by creativity and the notion that art has ‘staying power’, but argues: “Anything too symbolic has a shelf life.” “My colour palette is very much influenced by my travels: the muted greens and greys of Argyll and Edinburgh, the vivacity of South America… Motifs have their place in my work too, but I try to be more original than the popular deer and antlers,” Holly concludes with a laugh. In the Atelier Series section of her catalogue book that we find above the fireplace, there are some very familiar images: Antibes’ Fort Carré and Jaume Plensa’s Nomade sculpture above the port, Provençal shutters, bunting and buoys. As we explore her large format abstract works (from 400€) and digital prints (from 150€), one piece stands out. As lovers of words and letters, Holly’s new crossword print, which is draped across her table, catches our eye. “They’ve never really had their time, but I love their graphic style,” she says. Screen painting as opposed to screen printing involves painting directly on to a fabric with textile dyes that become fixed to the material. It’s a hybrid technique and something of a niche in the French Riviera. Holly hopes to develop her methods in the coming months to include appliqué and top stitching. During our visit, she explains that she is currently experimenting with a new ecological dye called Expandex that puffs up to give a piece texture and volume. “I prefer large format works,” she adds. “I pin any sort of fabric that takes dye to the table – linen, silk, velvet or old curtains from an antiques fair – and apply the dyes as if I was painting. I’ve sold a lot more than anticipated in my first two months in the studio so I’m really excited for the future and am even contemplating doing a few contemporary art fairs such as Maison d'Objet in Paris.” Holly plans to keep her studio open all year round and is considering hosting a workshop for budding artists and screen painting amateurs. With biot as her backdrop, a village known internationally for its glass working expertise, we are sure the creativity is set to continue.  novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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chanel’s la pausa on The riviera The style manifesto of a controversial woman By SARAH HYDE

illa La Pausa is one of the great villas of the Côte d’Azur. built during the Golden Age, the house was created by style icon of the 20th century: Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. Her legend is the most commercially valuable assets that Chanel owns and her lifestyle was one so scandalous that it is not for the faint-hearted. When Vogue first published images of Chanel’s new home in May 1930, the photographs were described as a ‘style manifesto’. She had chosen, once again, to dance to a different drum beat. Although the villa’s interiors were stark and beige – which was very in keeping with the style of JeanMichel Frank, a leading decorator of the time – the use of antiques rather than modern furniture was quite remarkable and the Neo Provincial approach was far from the modernist aesthetic of the time. Chanel’s relationship with the French Riviera began long before she acquired the plot of land at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin in 1928. Throughout her adult life, she had always

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enjoyed luxury holiday resorts; mixing effortlessly with the wealthy and leisured classes was one of the keys to her success. Her first shop in biarritz was quickly followed by one in Deauville, and she visited this area often too. Her histoire d'amour perhaps began in earnest with her involvement in Le Train bleu, a production by Diaghilev for the ballets Russes, for which Chanel designed the costumes (a co-production with Jean Cocteau and Picasso). 1924 also marked the beginning of her intimate friendship with the Duke of Westminster, Hugh ‘bendor’ Grosvenor. This story of seduction by the duke is the stuff

of romantic legend. The wealthiest man in England and one of the most powerful british aristocrats, the duke set out to seduce the gamine orphan and First Lady of French fashion by inviting her on board his yacht Flying Cloud for supper. The vessel was a fourmast schooner that was designed to appear like a pirate frigate on the outside yet decorated like a Queen Anne property on the inside. Chanel arrived in something she had just ‘slipped on’. Grosvenor, an experienced seducer of women, began his pursuit of Chanel in earnest, showering her with jewels – for which she already had a highly developed taste – and gifts from his estate. At 41, she was a woman of the world and knew enough to make the duke, a hunter and gambler who was used to getting everything he wanted, work hard for his prey. She often refused him and held firm for many months. At one stage, the duke even brought the Prince of Wales to visit her to plead his case. Diana Vreeland insisted that a loving moment arose between the duke and Chanel in Paris that year, and there are wonderful tales of Grosvenor disguising himself as a flower delivery boy to gain access to Mademoiselle’s boudoir so that he could lavish her with more jewels. With this level of persistence, the couturier eventually won out and one of the most interesting love affairs in history began. She became quickly used to the Grosvenor style of entertaining and travel, which was either on the yacht or in their private train, with two carriages for the guests and four for luggage and dogs.

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by the time it came to building La Pausa, however, the relationship must have been coming to an end. Discovering the truth about Chanel is not easy; she was a creature happy to create her own myth. Several biographers claim that La Pausa was built by Chanel and Westminster, but this version of events is not entirely plausible. The duke married Loelia Mary Ponsonby on 20th February 1930, meaning that by the time the villa was completed, the romantic relationship between Chanel and Grosvenor was done, although the friendship lingered over many years. Reality does not sit comfortably with fables of passion, but if the house was built as a love nest, what went wrong? Although there are stories that Chanel turned down the duke’s marriage proposals, there is no concrete evidence of such. Another question that refuses to be ignored: what kind of woman would choose to break up with the Duke of Westminster just after the Wall Street crash? The truth may never be discovered. These stories, however, are perhaps not as important as the effect that the Duke’s taste for tweed had on Chanel. Without this influence, there would be massive ramifications in the history of fashion. The parcel of land that became La Pausa was purchased in Chanel’s name in 1928 for 1.5 million French francs. by the time it was completed, an additional six million had been spent on the house – entirely in her name. She settled her bills promptly and embraced working with architect Robert Streitz. One of

Chanel’s significant contributions to the style of the house was her insistence that he visit the convent in Aubazine, where she grew up, and that the architect integrate elements of the building into the new villa. She was a superstitious woman: throughout the house, there are many references to her

DISCOVERING THE TRUTH AbOUT CHANEL IS NOT EASY; SHE WAS A CREATURE HAPPY TO CREATE HER OWN MYTH.

lucky number five, such as in the groupings of windows in clusters of five. When images of the newly completed villa were published by Vogue in 1930, it was notably stark – as was fashion at that time – but the extensive use of antiques separated it from other modern houses that were being photographed for the publication and its contemporaries at the time. Was this a reflection of her broken heart or a need for purity of style? by 1938, when the house was re-photographed for publication, it had become more baroque and luxurious in style. The aesthetic may have been austere, but time spent at La Pausa was pure luxury. Chanel had become accustomed to the life of the super-rich while part of the Grosvenor set and the comfort of her guests was paramount. Each of the en-suites attached to

hisTorY

the seven bedrooms had a separate entrance for a servant. Meal times were informal buffets, and breakfast was delivered to the guests’ rooms. The gardens, also designed by Chanel, were visually astounding in their clever use of colour and her dog, a Great Dane called Gigot, loved to run through the lavender fields that surrounded the house. These glorious blocks of colour were constantly remarked upon by her guests, including Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and a young Luciano Visconti. La Pausa is a house where you wish the walls could talk. During the war, when Chanel was conducting what would prove to be a very costly affair with German baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, the couple came to the property for the summer. We must wonder whether the designer knew that her architect was using the villa’s extensive cellars for transmitters and hiding refugees in the gardens as a staging post to the Italian border. Later, when the house was in the hands of Emery Reves and his partner Wendy, Winston Churchill was a regular guest. After the war, the disgraced Chanel (she was a horizontal collaborator and had likely been working as an agent for the Germans) kept a low profile and spent time in exile in Switzerland wondering what to do and indulging her many vices. She was too rich to need to work, but was restless and unhappy without something to do. In 1953, soon after she had destroyed a biography of her life written by Michel Deon, Pierre Wertheimer came to visit in Switzerland and brought worrying news. For the first time in 30 years of Chanel No. 5, sales were down and her future was not guaranteed. She was triggered into action and decided to let go of the past and embrace what may come. She travelled to America to look for new markets and, upon her return, sold La Pausa to fund the restoration of her fashion house. The house with all its contents went to publisher and art collector Reves and his partner, who lived in the house from 1953. La Pausa was filled with their significant art collection and friends, including Churchill, who liked to paint there. Wendy Reves gave the entire contents of the villa to the Dallas Museum of Art on the condition that they remake the hall, staircase and six of the rooms of the villa. These are recreated there for visitors to see. In 2016, La Pausa was bought back by the House of Chanel and it is currently awaiting restoration.  Use of photographs taken of Villa La Pausa made possible to the Dallas Museum of Art and Wendy and Emery Reves Papers.

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riviera

WellBeing

Win a spa reTreaT Mimozas Cannes & Golden Tulip in Sophia Antipolis s part of Riviera Insider’s ongoing partnership with spa management specialist LV Riviera, we have a select number of spa retreats at luxury resorts Mimozas Cannes and the Golden Tulip hotel in Sophia Antipolis to gift to

winning readers. To be in with a chance of enjoying a 30-minute spa treatment plus one hour’s access to the hotels’ swimming pools, jacuzzis and other indulgent facilities, head to the competition section of our website: www.riviera-press.fr/insider

for The BoDY & minD The ﬁrst ‘Better Being Center’ of the Côte d'Azur has opened

happY spa Week Regional tourism bureau tempts with special oﬀers uxury retreats in some of the French Riviera’s finest resorts? You don’t need to tell us twice! between 20th and 26th November then again next year between 19th and 25th March, more than a dozen hotels and spas between bandol in the Var and the principality of Monaco are offering promotional getaways for couples and individuals at some very attractive prices. “The Côte d'Azur is certainly one of Europe's greatest wellness destinations,” says a representative for the Comité Régional du Tourisme, “an attribute it owes in part to the dynamism of its luxury hotels. Always eager to meet the expectations of their customers, almost all have a spa and as partners of the largest cosmetic institutions of the moment, these resorts combine performance and refinement.” The tourism board has collaborated with leading establishments in the region to create the Happy Spa Week Côte d'Azur offer (www.happyspaweek-cotedazur.com). Each participating resort will propose a two-night’s stay with breakfast and treatments for two people, and a one-day wellness session for individuals. While 16 establishments have already signed up, the CRT is also set to expand its range to include golfing destinations later in the year. So where can you visit? In Monaco: Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo Spa and the Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, Monte-Carlo bay Hotel and its Cinq Mondes spa, and the Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo. In the AlpesMaritimes: La Réserve de beaulieu (in March only), Cap Estel, Grand-Hôtel du Cap Ferrat, boscolo Exedra Nice, Le Mas de Pierre (in March only), the Thermes Marins de Cannes spa and Radisson blu 1835 Hotel, Majestic barrière, Five Seas Hôtel, Grand Hyatt Cannes Hôtel Martinez (in March only), and Mas Candille. In the Var: Dolce Frégate Hôtel & Resort, Terre blanche Hôtel Spa and Golf Resort, and Château de berne. 

he first holistic ‘better being Center – Anahataflow’ of the Côte d'Azur has opened. Founder Magali Mazzei invites you to regular workshops and retreats focusing on yoga, meditation and Ayurvedic cuisine in the beautiful setting of the Villa Carmella on the outskirts of Grasse. She also, of course, offers personal coaching sessions. Details on her unique programme and the philosophy of the Chopra Center and certified Vedic

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instructor can be found on the website: www.anahataflow.com. For example, how about afterwork meditation in preparation for the upcoming weekend? Magali Mazzei (who speaks fluent German and English in addition to French) provides an introduction to the art of meditation at the Villa Carmella (500 Route de Pégomas, Grasse) every Friday at 7pm.  For further information and registration please call +33 (0)6 42 43 11 71 or email info@anahataflow.com.

riviera

golf

T e e i n g

o f f

o n

T h e

c ô T e

D ’ a z u r

GOLF CORRESPONDENT RAIMUND THEOBALD

Terre Blanche “A very special feeling…”

rom the very start – with a warm and welcoming smile from the security guard at the imposing, gated entrance to this five-star resort – we have a special feeling about Terre blanche. Located close to the Provençal villages of Tourrettes and Fayence, this hotel and golf complex is often described as a 300-hectare paradise, a oneof-a-kind destination in the heart of the French Riviera. All staff, from those in the Proshop to the greenkeeper we meet in the square, are friendly, attentive and intuitive to your needs: true professionals. We must have been wished ‘bonjour’ a hundred times on the late summer day we visit. All employees are committed to providing a sublime level of service. One such team member suggests we drive out to the first hole of the 18-hole par 72 Le Château course. Thankfully golf carts are included in the green fee, which makes sense at this extensive facility. As we arrive to tee off, we realise the grandeur of this magical landscape. Alongside Le Château is Le Riou, a slightly

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shorter course that is reserved for hotel guests and club members. The quality of Le Château, which has 6,044 metres of yellow, is for every golfer to decide for themselves. Visually it is stunning and beautifully landscaped, but after a long and hot summer, our expectations for the condition of the greens is not particularly high. We are very pleasantly surprised; all aspects of the course have been kept in peak condition to allow for an exceptionally good day’s golfing. We enjoy the short but tricky par 3 holes, which demand precise motions and aim – something we aren’t always able to match. The six par 4 holes – all of them over 350 metres in length – require long strokes if the par is to be met. With three out of the four par 5 holes owning a length of around 450 metres, our chances are much higher. Personally, the 18 highlights of this September day are the greens: perfectly maintained, fast, pithy and merciless. The long distances from one green to the next tee off enable us to better appreciate the

natural and manmade beauty of the place. Clean pathways belie neat hedges and bush; landscaping at its finest. The sanitary facilities barely need mentioning as we’ve already come to anticipate the five-star quality of Terre blanche. I could continue to compliment this wonderful resort, but that would be beyond the scope of my column. The very informative Terre blanche website has all the important information you should need ahead of a visit. On the subject of ‘peace and solitude’, I must make one comment. Golf media and online forums often mention disruption caused by the starting of small aircraft and noisy sailors. I think all should be allowed to enjoy the impressive rural setting and exercise their passions whether on the ground or above it. We have had a truly great day of golf in this relaxed part of Provence and it is one we will remember for a long time. We are left with the same ‘special feeling’ we experienced at the start as we sit on the terrace of the clubhouse enjoying a drink. Happy, we part the resort with kind words from the porter as we leave later that afternoon. 

Born in 1956 and a passionate golfer since 1992, raimund is a lover of France in all its forms: the people, the food and wine, the culture, and most importantly Provence and Côte d'azur.

GOLF DE TERRE BLANCHE 3,100 Route de Bagnolsen-Forêt 83400 Tourrettes +33 (0)4 94 39 36 93 proshop@terreblanche.com www.terre-blanche.com

Information:

1Le Château Par 72 18 holes 6,481m black with slope 150 6,481m white with slope 149 6,044m yellow with slope 146 5,703m blue with slope 150 5,178m red with slope 138 Training centre, driving range, putting and chipping greens Clubhouse and restaurant with terrace Seasonal green fees and tariﬀs for the training facilities can be found on the website as well as a large selection of rates in connection with the hotel’s restaurants and spa Open all year round

EPHRUSSI DE ROTHSCHILD Villa & Gardens SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT

Located between Nice and Monaco, discover the villa’s fine art collections as well as its wonderful gardens overlooking the sea.

www.villa-ephrussi.com | Open everyday

#VillaEphrussi

A site developed and managed by

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green

paca capiTal of BioDiversiTY exTenDeD elecTric Bike Mouans-Sartoux praised for conservation eﬀorts service The town of Mouans-Sartoux to the north of Cannes has been chosen as the capital of biodiversity in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region (PACA), beating 16 other agglomerations with more than 2,000 inhabitants. Mouans-Sartoux was awarded the prize because, among other things, it has adhered to strict rules of conservation in numerous recent

construction and urbanisation projects. It was praised, in particular, for its protection of agricultural, forest and natural areas, the creation of parks and green areas, and other ecological initiatives. Muttersholtz in the bas Rhin department of Alsace was the overall winner of the national competition, Capitale Française de la biodiversité.

from lonDon To monaco Cycling for the oceans

The Yacht Club de Monaco has been added to the growing list of stations for Monaco’s public electric bike service. There are now 17 stations dotted throughout the principality with 105 bikes in fulltime operation for the 700 subscribers. Run by the Compagnie des Autobus de Monaco, the extended service, which was launched in May, takes the ratio of electric bikes per resident up to one per 370 residents – two times higher than the European average for agglomerations between 50 and 500,000 inhabitants. 

e-scooTers in nice Yet another e-powered solution At the end of September, Prince Albert II welcomed more than 50 endurance cyclists to the Palais Princier in Monaco. Over 10 days, the cyclists completed an impressive 1,500-kilometre bike ride from London to the principality over ten days in an event organised by the Uk-based blue Marine Foundation. Organisers behind the London to Monaco aim to raise a quarter of a million pounds for ocean conservation projects. During the first novemBer / DecemBer 2017

edition in 2016, £280,000 came together for protection projects that tackled issues such as overfishing and the development of conservation zones. “Oceans are more than ever at the heart of our common future,” said Prince Albert ahead of their arrival. “The London to Monaco Cycle Ride is a wonderful opportunity to raise awareness on the necessity to protect our fragile oceans.”

Following a trial period in early 2018, the city of Nice is hoping to offer an e-scooter rental service called Cityscoot (currently active in Paris). Around 50 twowheelers, which have a range of 70 kilometres and can be found using geo-localisation, will be available from the New Year. Although the concept is to keep the rental service as simple as possible – Cityscoot is considering offering helmets on loan too – those operating the scooters will be expected to charge them. The cost is likely to be between 20 and 28€ per minute. 

riviera

Tax& finance

Business

french laBour laW reform New measures in place from this autumn

uring his presidential campaign, Emmanuel Macron announced his plans for significant reforms to France’s labour laws. The government discussed the changes with unions and employers’ organisations during the summer of 2017 and has issued ordonnances in order to grant more flexibility to small and medium-sized companies and to

simplify social discussions. In France, an ordonnance is a device measure taken by the government in an area of law that is normally reserved for primary legislation and enacted by the French Parliament. It is then signed by the President and ratified by parliament. Five ordonnances were adopted on 22nd September 2017 by the Conseil des Ministres and signed by Emmanuel Macron. The ordonnances were then published publically the following day. Most of these acts are effective immediately and the others will be later negotiated. The changes that apply now are the following: > Teleworking: in some cases, teleworking will be possible through a collective agreement and/or an amendment to the employment contract; >Time limit for complaints (Prud’hommes): in case of unjustified layoffs, the time limit to bring a case before the social court has been reduced from two years to one year; >Upper limits on the amount of damages for unjustified layoffs: three months’ pay up to two years of employment and to 20 months’ pay for 30 years. At the same time, redundancy payments will be a quarter of monthly salary per working year instead of the

smB DeficiT linkeD To hôTel De paris ver the 2016/7 fiscal year, the Société des bains de Mer group netted 458.8 million euros, a 0.5% decrease on the previous period. However, when comparing the summer season of 2017 to that of 2016, the group’s hospitality sector has seen an increase of 10% in revenue – thanks to updates to establishments such as Le Grill and Jimmy’z Monte-Carlo – and the gaming sector has improved by 15% (automatic gaming machines have experienced soaring interest). During the 2016/7 period, the operational deficit stood at -32.8 million euros compared to -31 million euros in 2015/6. This has been linked to the continued works at the Hôtel de Paris and the reduced capacity of the five-star establishment. The completion of renovations and new additions to the hotel, which began in 2014 and include the restructuring both of public areas and of service facilities as well as the creation of a garden courtyard in the centre of the building, the development of the roof space (new fitness suite, spa and pool area) and the building of a unique rooftop villa with its own private pool and garden, is expected in the autumn of 2018. Overall, SbM anticipates that the loses caused by its semi-open status will cost the group more than 50 million euros. As such, and during a meeting of shareholders at the Salle des Etoiles at the Sporting Monte-Carlo in September, the General Assembly of Shareholders has chosen not to distribute annual dividends. While increases in the hospitality and rental sectors have compensated lightly for the fall in gambling activities over the past fiscal year, SMb says rises in taxation as well as ongoing investments have caused the reduction in profits. Revenues in the first five reported months of the 2017/8 fiscal year indicate a 6% increase on that of the year before and the group remains hopefully that the full reopening of the Hôtel de Paris and a marketing push for targeted clientele within the gaming sector, of which it describes as a main objective, will return Monaco’s biggest employer to a profitable and stable future.

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previous fifth and are expected following eight months of employment instead of one year >Economic layoffs in multinational companies: only financial difficulties in France will be considered and not the Group level; and >Rupture conventionnelle: this type of mutual agreement to end a contract, which was previously only applicable to individual cases, can be now used at a collective level. Other measures will be applied in the next few months concerning collective agreements and firm representatives with the creation of the Comité Social et Economique (CSE), for example. President Emmanuel Macron is preparing many important changes in other fields too: social contributions, the Taxe d’Habitation, wealth taxation, CICE, RSI, corporate tax and income tax deducted at source.

Jean-philippe gioanni Expert-Comptable Commissaire aux Comptes 1 rue Montaigne, Cannes +33 (0)4 93 06 63 06 www.concertae.com

Business person of The Year An open invitation to the Riviera Business Club Awards he Riviera business Club Awards have rolled around again and although Riviera Insider can’t yet announce the shortlist, which is to be announced during November, we can reveal the date and place of the ceremony. For the first time, the awards and gala dinner will be taking place at the Nice campus of Edhec business School on Friday 1st December at 7pm. As a thoroughly international club with growing numbers, the night will be an excellent opportunity to meet business leaders and the wider expat community of the Côte d’Azur. Sponsors of the event include Tribune bulletin Côte d’Azur, Ramel Communications and Events by George. ANDYANA is to be the trophy sponsor for the second year running. The awards are also held with the support of the Chambre de Commerce et de l’Industrie de Nice Côte d’Azur and Riviera Insider’s editor-in-chief Petra Hall will be reprising her role as part of the jury once again. The categories for the awards are Start-Up of the Year (nominees must have recently founded a company in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur or Monaco and been in business for a minimum of one year as at 1st September 2017) and business Person of the Year (those shortlisted will be owners of a company registered in the same areas and been in business for a minimum of three years as at 1st September 2017).  To make a reservation for the event, please contact info@rivierabusinessclub.fr.

BENJAMIN A. KERGUENO AVOCAT LL.M

Nice - London

CONNECTING LEGAL CULTURES

attorney-counsel.com Riviera Office 28 rue Gioffredo 06000 Nice T : +33 (0)4 93 13 33 66

London Office 88 Kingsway WC2B 6AA London T: +44 0203 755 5316 benjamin.kergueno@attorney-counsel.com

French income tax for non-residents

Non-residents who earn rentals income from a property they own in France are liable in France to pay income tax on the net proceeds of that activity. In practice, a minimum imposition of 20% applies. Most non-residents benefit from a double taxation treaty, which grants partial relief against liability to tax in their home country, however it implies that they need to declare rental income to both the French and their home country tax authorities. Non-residents in France will include in their French tax declaration a copy of the tax notice from their home country for the relevant year. I regularly encounter foreign clients who believe their rental income from a property owned in France only needs to be declared in their home country. Not only does this imply that they might lose some deduction and rebate, but it also generates an administrative risk in regard of French tax failure to declare these incomes. My work in helping such clients and advising them on the best routes to take to mediate the issue is done with great personal pleasure. Coupling this with the fact that I am bilingual in English and French allows for a relationship without misunderstanding. I am proud to build bridges with foreign legal cultures and assist foreigners in understanding how French tax works. Should you like to receive advice on your own situation, please do not hesitate to contact me. My first stage of advice is often free of charge and I will be happy to counsel you with the relevant information so that you can enjoy your investments in the region with the calm and serenity that inspires the azure sky of the French Riviera.

riviera

finance

Conducted in a private atmosphere – as is usual with the Compagnie Monégasque de Banque – editor-in-chief Petra Hall shares a conversation with Chief Operating Oﬃcer and Director of Business Development Stephan Sieder.

hat do Swiss and Monegasque private banks have in common? both offer their clients banking services within a framework of high political and economic stability, an important requirement if you want your money to be guarded safely. In addition, investor protection and expertise play a vital role in securing and retaining the trust of clients. As Monaco is subject to French rules in many areas regarding its banking system, its banks operate within a regulatory framework at the highest standards. Compagnie Monégasque de banque (CMb) attaches a very special importance to the personal relationships it has with its clients. According to Stephan Sieder: “Many large banks reduce customer contact via automated services. At CMb, however, we think a good service relationship translates into a good personal relationship. Technology, for example, doesn’t allow proper analysis of the risks an investor is willing to take and the definition of precise investment objectives for the individual. Furthermore, consultants often change, weakening trust in the relationship with clients.” Sieder continues, “The personal relationship is at the centre of our advisory methods. We aim first of all to listen to the client. It is essential in order to understand their needs on a personal level and formulate investment objectives as a consequence. This cannot be replaced by technology.” That the native Austrian is proud of the many longstanding client relationships of CMb, which has existed for 40 years, is heard and felt clearly. Employees are also loyal to the bank and many of them have been working for CMb for up to three decades. A crucial part of their careers is continuous training in many fields, such as international tax queries, new developments in the financial industry and innovative systems for payment transactions. “New technologies are interesting for CMb,” Sieder explains, “when improving and supporting our relationship with clients. In the near future, electronic

The arT of lisTening What makes CMB so special?

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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT FOR CMB STEPHAN SIEDER IS PICTURED AT THE OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN MONACO, WITH WHOM THE BANK HAS A LONG-LASTING RELATIONSHIP © Semmy Demmou

signatures will become anchored in Monegasque law, allowing clients to sign contracts and other official documents at distance and therefore better connect with the bank. It also means time-saving and paper reduction and enables a smooth handling of administrative issues. . Another example is the secured email feature within CMb’s internet banking

service, which allows the client to contact his or her advisor when travelling or unable to come directly to the bank. To CMb, the successful bank of tomorrow is the one that will guard the trust of its clients and act as a privileged partner in all financial dealings, using new technologies to foster personal service.” 

riviera

real esTaTe

european finesse

ADVERTORIAL

Nathalie Ludwig creates cosiness in the dream homes of her clients

alking from the sofa of her tonally paired office space, her vision becomes clear. Every detail is in the right place and the designer couch is so comfortable that it is hard to leave. Her credo: “Functional and aesthetic at the same time.” Five years ago, the bilingual daughter of a German woman and a Frenchman went it alone and opened a showroom in Mougins. It is from here that she plans how to best satisfy her clients’ living space on the Côte d'Azur. The fact that she has an eye for style is demonstrated not only in the photographic portfolio of her

work, but also the testimonials and comments from her enthusiastic clients on her website. “I love to mix styles,” says the mother of a three-year-old son, “putting an antique chest of drawers in a modern house, for example, or replacing old doors with freshly rebuilt installations for a complete renovation.” Her talent was likely imbued in this interesting woman when she was still in her crib. Growing up with parents who made international friendships in a house of colourful but tastefully combined furniture – her mother worked in the perfume industry while her father was the marketing executive for a furniture company – she already drafted designs for interior decoration as a small child. What was fun at the time has now become a life-long passion. She says that her luck at being given a job in an architect’s office straight out of university is probably owed to her bilingualism. The company, which was based in Sophia Antipolis, worked with luxury resort Terre blanche in the Var. What she learned there and later in an office in Cannes, she now puts into practice with her own team and a network of artisans and craftspeople. “I take care of everything, from the bathrooms to the electrics, lifts, porcelain, curtain, bed linen, accessories…” she explains. “When the client arrives to take possession of the keys after a renovation, everything is prepared and immaculate. We even light candles, play music and serve chilled champagne.” The materials must be natural, beautiful and practical for Nathalie, who blends French finesse with German reliability. Stone and wood are among her favourites. No project is the same, however: “I listen carefully to what the client wants, how they live and what their preferences are. My task is to then translate the designs into something they connect with emotionally.” For most of her clients, the properties are secondary residences and holiday homes in the French Riviera, but she also works abroad in places such as London and kuwait. “My work is a genuine pursuit of passion and it brings with it a huge sense of happiness. We are here to make the dreams of my clients come true.” 

Nathalie Ludwig Exclusive Interiors 799 Avenue de Tournamy 06250 Mougins +33 (0)4 92 98 13 20 +33 (0)6 61 35 31 77 info@nathalieludwig.com novemBer / DecemBer 2017

riviera

real esTaTe

Who is BuYing picasso’s mougins villa? Kiwi ﬁnancier given extra time to ﬁnd the cash ablo Picasso’s former home in the village of Mougins may have a new owner. After bidding on the 800-square metre villa during the summer, New Zealand financier Rayo Withanage has reportedly struggled to raise funds for the iconic address. Following an unsuccessful auction by Achmea bank in October, a local judge has now given Withanage extra time to find the cash in order to complete the sale. Of Sri Lankan and Portuguese descent, Withanage reportedly bid 20.1 million euros for the historic estate back in June. He has since been unable to get together the money to purchase the property and it was put back up for auction – unsuccessfully – on Thursday 12th October. Consequently, a judge in the Alpes-Maritimes has given him an additional two months to source the funds. The last owner of Mas de NotreDame de Vie was a Dutch investor,

who bought it from Catherine Hutin-blay, the daughter of Picasso’s wife at the time of his death, Jacqueline Roque-Picasso. The property was built during the 18th century and was purchased by Picasso, who lived out his final years there until his death in the early 1973, in 1961. Sadly, barely any traces of the great maestro remain bar a few paint splatters in his former studio, which is the only part of the property to remain in its original Picasso-era form. Withanage is believed to have grown up between New Zealand, bermuda and brunei. He has a reputation has a powerful financier in Asia and the Middle East, having graduated from the University of Auckland and the London School of Economics. A representative for the Dutch bank selling the estate, Achmea bank, has reportedly said that they have been in discussions with Withanage for over a year, adding: “Let's hope he gets over the finishing line.” 

france phases ouT Taxe D’haBiTaTion 80% of households to beneﬁt t was a major promise of President Emmanuel Macron’s campaign and is one that has seen the light within his first six months in office: from 2018, the taxe d’habitation paid by 80% of France’s 17 million households will be reduced by 30%. The following year, the tax will be reduced by 65% and finally by 100% in 2020.

The households concerned are single people earning less than 27,000€ a year, couples earning less than 43,000€, and couples with children earning less than 49,000€ annually. Minister for Public Action and Accounts Gérald Darmanin has said that the changes will give ‘10 billion euros of buying power back to [France’s] citizens’. 

firsT sTone laiD aT Domaine De gairauT Extraordinary estate set for completion in 2019

n early autumn, CEO of Cogedim Philippe Josse symbolically laid the foundation stone of a luxurious development at the foot of the Colline de Gairaut near Nice’s elegant Cimiez neighbourhood in the presence of Nice’s mayor, Christian Estrosi. The first half of the unique concept and 29 homes, which will be spread over five buildings, is expected to be completed in 2019. Located in a private estate of five hectares just 10 minutes from the Promenade des Anglais, Domaine de Gairaut proposes a stunning natural setting within a listed park. Far more than merely a high-end development, future homeowners will enjoy landscaped gardens by paysagiste Vincent Guillermin that include a reconstructed Roman road, centuries-old Cypress trees and an olive grove and agricultural farm from which olive oil will be extracted for residents. Other services will include a round-the-clock concierge, a 25-metre swimming pool, tennis court, spa and fitness suite, and putting green for keen golfers. Prices per square metre for the Cogedim development range from 8,800 to 14,450€. 

MONASTARY FROM 11TH CENTURY IN THE PROVENCE

Luxury property, 390 m2 of habitable & usable surface, 6 rooms, good structural condition, surface area of land: 8000 m2, green Provence, 1h by car to Nice airport, AixTGV, E-mail:paulinedoutreluingne@gmail.com

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rummaging for anTiques Culture correspondent Sarah Hyde hunts for treasures on the Cours Saleya f ever you need some inspiration when looking for a unique present or – like me – could pass hours searching through boxes of vintage goodies, Nice’s Monday antiques market on the Cours Saleya is the ideal destination. The market opens every Monday at 5am and by that time, the local cafés are open and serving hot coffee and croissants to intrepid visitors and serious local dealers. Where you’d usually find bountiful bouquets of flowers, on this day you’ll find trinkets of a priceless (it could go either way) nature. If you are interested in antiques and home decoration or just finding weird and wonderful things, this market is the place to be. Trade is brisk early in the morning and it is best to get here as soon as you can to find the best stock and prices. For the more leisurely shopper, a few hours before lunchtime should give you plenty of time to wander the various stalls.

When negotiating with an antique dealer, my best tip is to act just like you know what you are doing, handle items confidently with two hands and show up early. There is always a better price to be had than the asking price, and getting that is half the fun. My favourite aspect of this market is the diversity of its offerings. Finding the objects that appeal to you is a journey into yourself and it would be near impossible not to find something of interest. On a recent trip, I discovered a glorious vintage black Chanel suit in my size for 1,300€, mountains of kitsch and costume jewellery, fabulous old kitchenware – including brass jelly moulds and every shade of blue soda syphons – gorgeous old napkins, cutlery and silverware, and incredibly out-of-date technology including a wonderful white plastic spherical tape player. My eye is almost always caught by second-hand designer handbags, pens and purses, old military buttons and endless pieces of shattered chandelier that could make lovely Christmas decorations. Faites

attention! be careful of getting stuck into a box of records or posters, you could be lost for hours. My particular weakness is vintage postcards; the text messages of French Edwardian lovers. The correspondence is charming, formal and polite, but full of love, and I like to think about the choice of cards and wonder if things worked out. I once chose three cards at random from a box of 1,500 and all came from the same sender. He must have been quite the romancer. The landscape of the market changes constantly. Another visit threw up a wonderful selection of iridescent butterflies and delicate dragon flies, their translucent golden wings shimmering in the sunshine. They are truly some of nature's most delicately crafted treasures. There are also plenty of books and once you have admired the gorgeous David Hamilton photographs of young girls dressed in Victorian underwear, you might even find some of your own. The current rate for a pair of bloomers from the period is about 3€… 

The cours saleYa Nice’s former social centre By JÖRG LANGER

veryone knows Nice’s Cours Saleya, the famous flower market just a stone’s throw from the Promenade des Anglais. While the city was under Sardinian rule, in 1714, it was called Palco – a place between fortified buildings – and was first named as the Cours during the Napoleonic era. A rich social life reigned here at the end of the 18th century, when walks along the seafront, in the square and on the open terraces above the river bank were the popular leisure activity of high society. The highlight would have been a spectacular sunset over the Estérel mountains to the west. On the northern edge of the Cours were luxury boutiques, cafés, palaces and lush, landscaped gardens. In addition to roaring festivals were charity events, concerts and carnivals. Culture played its own part in the form of the Etablissement Littéraire Visconti from 1839. When Nice joined France in 1861, ending centuries of Lombardian and Sardinian rule, the first French mayor, François Malausséna, chose the Cours Saleya as the site for the city’s flower, fruit and vegetable market. In 1892, the historic

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Nice Carnival moved away from the grand avenue and, gradually, so did the boutiques, which took up residence in newer zones of the city, such as Place Masséna and Avenue de la Gare (today’s Avenue Jean Médecin). Metal roofing from 1890 was replaced with a concrete structure like Cannes’ Marché Forville in 1930. Outside of the market, cars could park freely and the open terraces were closed in 1960. The market lived on, but its spirit was diminished. In 1980, the Cours Saleya got a new look: the

concrete hall was demolished and the car parks were moved underground. The market became a pedestrian-friendly zone once more. Today the market is lined with restaurants and bistros. The historic facades of buildings like the Palais des Sardes (now the Prefecture) and the Saint Suaire Chapel are revealed. Visitors can also enjoy views of the waterfall on the summit of the Colline du Château. The terraces are to be reopened soon and the Cité du Parc, a street running parallel to the market and the Quai des Etats-Unis is to undergo significant renovations.

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1st November to 31st January 2018 saint Tropez Classique l’Hiver à Saint Tropez A series of classical concerts organised by the Société Tropézienne des Amis de la Musique. La Renaissance Cinema. sainttropeztourisme.com 3rd November cannes Orchestre de Cannes The Cannes Orchestra presents ‘Le Jardin Zoologique’, two concerts for young children. Auditorium des Arlucs. 3pm and 5pm. orchestre-cannes.com 4th to 5th November cannes NRJ Music awards Artists from all over the globe come to Cannes for the NRJ music awards. Palais des Festivals. nrj.fr 5th November nice Marathon Nice-Cannes A 42km run from the Promenade des Anglais to the Croisette in Cannes. Starts in Nice at 8am. marathon06.com Until 5th November mouans sartoux Olivier Mosset & Jean-Baptiste Sauvage exhibition The Espace de l’Art Concret exhibits original woks by Olivier Mosset and Jean-baptiste Sauvage. espacedelartconcret.fr Until 5th November saint Tropez Les Années Bardot à Saint Tropez In celebration of the newly erected statue of brigitte bardot on Place blanqui, a photography exhibition of the glamourous woman, featuring shots by Willy Rizzo, takes place at the Hôtel de Paris. sainttropeztourisme.com 7th, 8th and 9th November monaco Ballets de Monte Carlo Imprévus - a performance by the students of the Academie Princesse Grace. Ateliers des ballets de Monte Carlo. 7pm. balletsdemontecarlo.com

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8th November monaco Cine concert Friedrich Wilhelm Murnau’s film of Faustus is accompanied by a piano improvisation by JeanFrançois Zygel – the first even of its kind at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo. 8pm. opera.mc 9th to 13th November cagnes sur mer Salon du Palais Gourmand Regional delicacies at the Hippodrome de la Côte d’Azur. From 10am to 8pm. 8€. salonpalaisgourmand.com 10th November monaco Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra A piano recital by Evgeny kissin. On the programme: Ludwig van beethoven and Sergei Rachmaninov. Auditorium Rainier III. 8.30 pm. opmc.mc 10th to 12th November nice C’est Pas Classique Two days of contemporary and classical music. Nice Acropolis. Free. cpasclassique.departement06.fr 12th November monaco Charlie Chaplin screening A screening of silent films by Charlie Chaplin including: The Adventurer and The Immigrant accompanied by pianist Paul Lay. Auditorium Rainier III. 3pm. opera.mc 15th November monaco Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra A concert of chamber music by the Monoïkos Quartet comprised of violinists Nicole Curau Dupuis and Louis-Denis Ott, cellist Frédéric Audibert and Matthieu Petitjean. On the programme: Franz Schubert, Joseph Haydn and benjamin britten. Auditorium Rainier III. 6.30pm. opmc.mc 16th November to 2nd December Monaco Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival See page 34. montecarlosbm.com

17th to 19th November mandelieu la napoule 17th Salon Saveurs et Terroirs Hundreds of local producers will come to the fair to offer tasty samples of their productions. Centre Expo Congrès. 10am to 7pm. 5€. salon-gastronomie.com 18th November cannes Trio Wanderer concert The Trio Wanderer will perform chamber classical music for the Moments Musicaux Allegro Amabile of Cannes. Theatre Alexandre III. 8pm. From 10€. cannes-destination.fr Until 19th November vence Eduardo Arroyo The Maeght Foundation guides you through a thematic itinerary of works realised since 1964 by the Spanish painter. Fondation Maeght. From 10am to 7pm. 10€. foundation-maeght.com 19th November cannes Barber of Seville Rossini’s infamous opera and love story between Rosina and Count Almaviva is performed at the Palais des Festivals. From 30€. cannes-destination.fr 24th to 27th November monaco Monte-Carlo Gourmet Fair The 22nd Monte-Carlo Gastronomie fair is the ultimate gourmet rendez-vous in the principality. Discover cuisine from around the world! Chapiteau de Monaco. montecarlogastronomie.com 25th November fréjus Regatta beautiful vessels cruise through the Port of Fréjus in a regatta organised by the Yacht Club of Fréjus. frejus.fr 26th November Bagnols-en-fôret Orchestre de Cannes The Cannes Orchestra heads to the Var for a performance of Mendelssohn, Mozart and Schubert. Eglise 4.30pm. 20€. orchestre-cannes.com

26th to 28th November monaco World Chef Summit An international congress and exhibition event for international chefs. Grimaldi Forum. www.chefsworldsummit.com 28th November cannes Orchestre de Cannes The Cannes Orchestra will perform La Truite by Schubert. Théâtre Alexandre III. 7pm. orchestre-cannes.com 2nd December cagnes-sur-mer Meeting d’Hiver de l’Hippodrome de la Côte d’Azur Launch of the equestrian season in Cagnes-sur-Mer’s mythic hippodrome. hippodrome-cotedazur.fr 2nd to 3th December antibes Salon Sucre et Chocolat Enjoy workshops, demonstrations, competitions and tastings at the Palais des Congrès. antibes-juanlespins.com 2nd December to 1st January nice Christmas village Discover the Côte d’Azur’s own ‘winter wonderland’ with artisan stalls, a ferris wheel, ice skating and much more. Throughout the city. 11am to 8pm. nicetourisme.com 2nd December to 26th February monaco Open air skating rink Enjoy Monaco’s open air ice skating rink in the harbour. Port de Monaco. 6.50€. mairie.mc 3rd December marseille Carmina Burana The ballet, Orchestra and Choirs of the Russian National Opera present Carmina burana. Le Dôme de Marseille. 4pm. From 40€. dome.marseille.fr 3rd December cannes Cross country run The 42nd Cross des Iles will bring together nearly 3,000 participants. Ile Sainte Margeurite. From 10am to 3.30pm. cross-des-iles-.org.

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3rd December cannes Orchestre de Cannes The Cannes Orchestra will perform La Muse et le Poète at the Théâtre Croisette. 4.30pm. orchestre-cannes.com 3rd December and 6th December monaco Monte-Carlo Opera An adaptation of I Puritani by Vincenzo bellini and conducted by Domingo Hindoyan. Auditorium Rainier III. 8pm. opera.mc 5th December antibes Olivia Ruiz A performance with Olivia Ruiz at the Antipolis Théâtre d’Antibes. 8pm. anthea-antibes.fr 6th December monaco 13th Monegasque Red Nose Day The Children of Frankie association sell red foam balls to stick on your vehicle in aid of sick and disadvantaged children in Monaco and throughout the PACA region. frankiemonaco.org 6th December to 7th January monaco Christmas village A Christmas village with Santa’s Grotto, craft stands, open air eateries and much more. Organised by Monaco City Hall. Port de Monaco. Free. mairie.mc 6th December monaco Elton John A concert by Elton John and his band. Grimaldi Forum. 8pm. grimaldiforum.com 8th to 9th December monaco Ballets de Monte Carlo Artists from the Monaco Dance Forum perform ‘No Time’s Land’. Grimaldi Forum. 8pm. balletsdemontecarlo.com 8th, 9th and 10th December antibes Le Chant du Cygne A short play by Anton Tchekhov adapted by Robert bouvier. Antipolis Theatre Antibes. 9pm. anthea-antibes.fr

8th to 17th December cannes Dance festival Dance performances of all kinds including Don Quichotte by the National ballet of Uruguay and Carmina buruna as well contemporary dance. Palais des Festivals. From 10€. festivaldedanse-cannes.com 10th December monaco Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra A concert by the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by kazuki Yamada with Jean-Efflam bavouzet, piano. On the programme: Claude Debussy, Maurice Ravel and Hector berlioz. From 20€. Auditorium Rainier III. 6pm. opmc.com 14th to 15th December monaco Ballets de Monte-Carlo Marco Goecke presents Nijinski as part of the Monaco Dance Forum. Opera Monte Carlo. 8pm. balletsdemontecarlo.com 16th December cap ferrat Candlelit Dinner Enjoy an intimate and elegant carol concert in English at the sumptuous Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild estate with champagne cocktail. 6.30pm. From 90€. villa-ephrussi.com 16th December monaco Christmas concert A Christmas concert by the Ensemble Orchestral et Choral des Alpes de la Mer with organist Silvano Rodi, tenor Massimo La Guardia, conducted by Giulio Magnanini. Eglise Sainte-Dévote. 8.30pm. visitmonaco.com 16th December cannes Orchestre de Cannes With Carmina burana, Claude brumachon brings together on stage 22 dancers of the ballet of the Grand Théâtre de Genève to offer a singular and undeniably committed version of this scenic cantata by Carl Orff. Palais des Festivals, Grand Auditorium. 8.30pm. From 40€. orchestre-cannes.com

17th December monaco Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra A Christmas concert by the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by Achim Fiedler. On the programme: Georg Friedrich Handel, Johann Sebastian bach and Arthur Honegger. Eglise Saint-Charles. 4pm. visitmonaco.com 18th December monaco Cine Club A screening of the film La La Land followed by a conference session. Eglise Saint Nicolas. 7pm. visitmonaco.com 21st December nice The Nutcracker ballet The Nutcracker is the perfect tale to get into the Christmas spirit. Performed by the ballet and the National Orchestra of Russia. Nice Acropolis. 8pm. From 40€. sean-acropolis.com 23rd to 31st December nice Opera de Nice The Opera of Nice will see on its stage two ballets: Roméo & Juliette and La Sylphide. Opera de Nice. 8pm. From 10€. opera-nice.org 28th to 31st December monaco The Taming of the Shrew Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo perform Shakespeare’s classic. Directed by Lawrence Foster, choreographed by JeanChristophe Maillot and with music from the Orchestre Philharmonique de Monte-Carlo. Grimaldi Forum. balletsdemontecarlo.com Until 31st December vence Matisse Vence hosts an exceptional exhibition dedicated to Matisse’s works. This is your last chance to see it! cotedazur-tourisme.com 31st December to 1st January Cannes The Great Gatsby Fitzgerald’s novel revisited as a ballet performance. Palais des Festivals. 8.30pm. From 30€. palaisdesfestivals.com

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7th January nice Prom’ Classic From the age of eight through to the most mature of athletes, Nice’s Prom’ Classic running event has something to suit the whole family. promclassic.com 22nd to 28th January monaco Rallye de Monte-Carlo Witness the opening event of the 2018 FIA Rally Championship. acm.mc 31st January to 7th February monaco Rallye Automobile MonteCarlo Historique Prefer cars of a certain vintage? Then this event will definitely appeal! acm.mc 25th February cannes Semi & 10km de Cannes More conservative distances than the full marathon, but with equally impressive views… semi-cannes.org 11th March nice Paris-Nice Bike Race Follow in the footsteps – or tracks – of professional cyclists during the final day of the week-long event. letour.fr/paris-nice 11th March monaco Monaco Run Pick from four events – the Riviera Classic of 23.8km, a 10km run, a 3x7km relay or the 5km walk – that encircle the principality. monacorun.org 16th to 17th March agay Swimrun Estérel Agathos 18km of trail running and a 5km swim to finish things off between Saint Raphaël and Agay! swimrun.esterel-cotedazur.com 14th to 15th April 2018 mandelieu Trail des Balcons d'Azur Mandelieu-La Napoule and the Estérel mountains are the background for this awesome trail running challenge. traildazur.com

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riviera press Welcomes The autumn & new CEO

olivier helies For the penultimate time in 2017, Riviera Press invited partners, readers and friends along to one of our Soirée Rendez-Vous’ in the Côte d’Azur. At the start of October, we headed to La Vague de Saint-Paul Hotel – close to the famous artistic village and pictured to the bottom right – for champagne, caviar and great conversation. It was an absolute pleasure to meet a number of Anglophone subscribers as well as some potential new freelance writers – you can find the work of one on page 51 of this magazine! Despite the cool evening air, the last of our guests stayed until almost midnight as we enjoyed the calming music of bobbi & Philippe, wine of Domaine Rabiega and artistic setting of this Neo Provençal address. 

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1 (1) The Riviera Press team from left: publisher Sébastien Fraisse, Riviera Insider editor Elsa Carpenter, CEO Olivier Héliès, event manager Dominique Freulon, RivieraZeit editor Aila Stöckmann, and marketing and communications personnel Patrice Saint-Leger, Françoise Muller and Michel Gomiz.

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(2) The director of Festival des Heures Musicales de biot, Liliane Valsecchi, and husband. (3) Our new CEO Olivier Héliès and his partner Caroline Priez. (4) Nathalie Ludwig (right) of Mougins-based design company Nathalie Ludwig Exclusive Interiors (right) with her mother. (5) La Vague de Saint-Paul’s house band bobbi & Philippe provided entertainment and music throughout the evening. (6) Founder of kapnist, the oldest real estate agency on the Cap d’Antibes, Pierre Duchene, with sales personnel Françoise Muller. (7) Marc Marin of Your Smart Home Design. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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(8) Sales personnel Michel Gomiz (right) shares a joke with bruno Mercadal, the director of Hôtel Royal Riviera. (9) It was wonderful to welcome some of our readers to the event! (10) What a pleasure it was meeting Shelley Ward, the Mistress of Ceremonies for the ANZAC Antibes association, and I Love Cap d’Antibes blogger and photographer Naneen Rossi. Look out for portraits of these two fascinating women in the New Year. (11) keen british freelancer writers Hugo Whysall and Lewis Longman came along to a Riviera Press event for the first time. (12) Sporting event organiser and Antibesland’s Tony Vivarelli with his wife and Riviera Insider’s Elsa Carpenter (right). (13) Caviar and champagne: the perfect French Riviera duo! novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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BUILD TOMORROW'S HORIZON TODAY

no finish line Shooting for the stars fter nearly 13,500 runners raced more than the distance to the moon during the 2016 No Finish Line charity run in Monaco, organisers are reaching for the stars in this year’s event. From Saturday 11th to Sunday 19th November, an estimated 14,000 participants will be hoping to break the 400,000-kilometre barrier as they raise funds for a number of different associations in aid of sick and disadvantaged children. Leaving for the start line at the Chapiteau de Fontvielle in the west of the principality, runners will embark on a 1.4-kilometre course around Monaco. The course is to be open around the clock, allowing entrants to complete as many laps as they like and at any speed. For each kilometre run, the Children & Future association will donate – thanks to support from numerous highprofile donators and registration fees (12€ for adults and 6€ for under 10s) – one euro to a range of charities and projects. Since 1999, the No Finish Line event has raised 2,797,303€ and has seen nearly 100,000 participants run for the 2.5 million kilometres. Registrations can be made for individuals and groups online. www.childrenandfuture.com/no-finish-line

International private bilingual school French / English from 2 years of age

Our Goal: Achieving Excellence By developing self-confidence, self-reliance, open-mindedness and revealing children's naturel creativity Our means: Maximum 10 children per class, fulfilling educational concept, individualized lessons by subject and level, naturally bilingual : 4 half days a week. Montessori and Philosophical pedagogic methods. Creation of the lower high school in 2018 and then high school Extra-curricular activities (also open to non-school children). English Club, science, astronomy, computer science, programming, mythology. Tutoring for better grades 55 Avenue de Cannes Juan les Pins 06160 Téléphone : 07 81 94 52 99 contact@little-philo-school.com www.little-philo-school.com

Luxury LifestyLe GaLa dinner

Fairmont monte-Carlo

CLub ViVanoVa Saturday 10th March 2018

www.clubvivanova.com novemBer / DecemBer 2017

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expaT focus: gaBrielle crump

 CHANCES FOR CHILDREN’S GAbRIELLE CRUMP SPLITS HER TIME ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA bETWEEN FAMILY LIFE AND HER UGANDA-bASED CHARITY. SHE TELLS RIVIERA INSIDER HOW SHE bECAME INVOLVED IN THE PROJECT AND HER PLANS FOR THE FUTURE.

Publishing Director SEbASTIEN FRAISSE s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr Managing Director OLIVIER HELIES o.helies@riviera-press.fr Editor-in-chief PETRA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr Editor ELSA CARPENTER e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr Contributors Sarah Hyde, Rolf Liffers, Jörg Langer, Aila Stöckmann, Lewis Longman, Raimund Theobald & Anna-Maria Deutschmann Creative Director VINCENT ARTUS vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr

hat first brought you to W the french riviera? My parents brought me to the French Riviera when I was 17. At the time, it was very much against my will as I had no friends here. Even though I was born in Grasse, I grew up entirely in the Uk and just visited the region during summer holidays. how did you come to be involved with chances for children? It was very much by accident. I had spent my whole career in sales and had got to a cross roads. I was looking for a new and different challenge when my school friend’s stepbrother James did a gap year in Uganda where he worked at an orphanage. He made an appeal for some muchneeded funds through his mother Michelle. My husband and I stepped in and decided to help! From that day on, the organisation became more and more present in our lives. In 2014, we got married and decided to ask for donations as wedding gifts. We then became board members on our return from our honeymoon and renamed the organisation at that point. novemBer / DecemBer 2017

You have achieved an enormous amount in a very short space of time. how do you see the project progressing in the future? This has been due to a mixture of tenacity, huge help from friends and, most of all, our amazing sponsors. They sponsor different children through us and enjoy seeing them growing up as the time goes by. We have a very clear goal. We want to be able to run a selfsustaining operation by building our own school and farm, taking in fee-paying students and helping our children to become responsible citizens, either graduating into higher education or taking on successful apprenticeships. They are very much a family; the older ones look after the younger ones. They have an incredible innocence and gratitude for the smallest things, which moves me every time I visit them. For this project to happen, we need to have a solid game plan in place and then raise significant funds, all with some strong project management and room for plenty of hitches… Working in Africa is very tough! They don’t run on the same time frames as us – it’s like the French system multiplied by 100! What role does the south of france play in the charity? We have been super fortunate as the organisation has grown. More and more friends have joined our cause. People have been incredibly supportive and local business as well as just friends

with big hearts are fearless to ask around on our behalf for sponsorship. It takes people's time and energy to run the operations. From managing our accounts to catering for events and hustling for auction lots – I am very lucky to be surrounded by amazing people that help me year-round. When you’re not busy running the charity, where are your inside tips for enjoying life on the côte d’azur? I do try and switch off occasionally otherwise I become a little obsessive! My husband Russell (who is our vice president and very much my partner in crime/sounding board/best friend) tells me I need to sometimes! I love to ski, I can’t be kept off a dance floor – be it at Zumba or in a friend’s living room – and I’ll try my hand at any new sporty adventure. I’m an outdoors-y girl. I would say leave the coast and enjoy the mountains. There is so much more to see if we make the effort to venture even 45 minutes back from the coast and escape the hustle and bustle. I also love a good giggle! 

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