Riviera Insider - October/November/December 2019 by Riviera Press

ART & CULTURE A 18-page special and theatre agenda

HEALTH & WELLNESS From top spas to clean beauty routines

BUSINESS & FINANCE China takes centre-stage with new direct flights

MONACO Exclusive interview with Mayor Georges Marsan

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# 186 ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019 4,90 â&#x201A;Ź The

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EDITORIAL By NICOLE RUSKELL

What a whirlwind this summer has been. Am I the only one who feels like it passed in the blink of an eye? After music festivals, yacht shows, inaugurations, interviews and even a little holiday, the deadline for this issue certainly snuck up on us all! You’ll notice it’s another three-month issue to finish out the year, so we’ve condensed two specials into one, with a health & wellness special and an art special. Both of these were fun to ‘research’ if one could call testing spas ‘research’. It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it. We cover a range of topics from luxury spas to an Ayuvedic wellness centre in Valbonne and feature two locally based cosmetics companies challenging the market with their innovation (starting page 26). Also learn about face yoga for facial rejuvenation and nutrition for glowing skin. Interviewing the artists for this issue was a highlight as well. Stephane Cipre, who’s ‘Art Sanglé’ was the perfect piece to illustrate the cover, creates such

diverse and fun pieces and includes an underlying message or irony in each piece (page 60). The second half of the special is dedicated to the stage: theatre, dance and music. My interview with Benjamin Levy, the artistic director and conductor of the Orchestre de Cannes was so enjoyable. We spoke about his contemporary and pedagogical style to keep the orchestra current and closer to the community. Mr Levy is a lovely person and a bit of a modern Renaissance man (page 70). Perhaps the biggest news this issue is the arrival of direct flights to China. Riviera Insider was on the tarmac when the maiden flight arrived from Beijing and Mayor Estrosi emphasised that the connection would foster a mutual discovery of culture. I had nothing but good experiences when I travelled to China and I hope this connection will do just that. Get reading because there is so much more packed into these pages!

THE TEAM

BICH LECOURT

CAROLE HéBERT

FRANÇOISE MULLER

PATRICE SAINT-LEGER

PETRA HALL

VINCENT ARTUS

DOMINIQUE FREULON

DANIEL NARO

Nicole Ruskell (editor-in-cheif) discovered her passion for journalism and its ability to connect people while working as the editorial director for academic journals. She has a Masters degree in journalism and over 10 years’ experience in publishing. The California native has worked throughout the French Riviera and Liguria, and is committed to wellbeing and organic principles. Bich Lecourt (managing director) was born in Antibes. Since completing her PhD in Economics, she has worked in Sophia Antipolis so is well-acquainted with the business ecosystem and atmosphere of the French Riviera. From architecture to interior design and décor, Bich likes discovering new parts of the region and enjoying the quintessential Côte d’Azur lifestyle. Petra Hall (founder) established the newspaper Riviera-Côte d’Azur Zeitung (now RivieraZeit) in German 26 years ago. It was followed by The Riviera Times, a magazine that has blossomed into Riviera Insider, in 2003. Her goal was always to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights written by professional mother-tongue journalists. She has become an institution in the south of France and Monaco's media landscape in her own right. Carole Hébert (secretary) is the heart and soul of the team. Besides dealing with accounting, subscription management and reader concerns, this native of northern France has a knack with numbers and always ensures everything in the office is ticking over perfectly.

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The Niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer. Françoise Muller (sales & marketing) is originally from Dijon, but has been living and working on the Côte d'Azur since 1993. For 14 years, she has thrived on her work in the communications and marketing industry, and is now an enthusiastic member of our team. Her hobbies include literature and sports. Dominique Freulon (events & distribution), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. She is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature. Patrice Saint-Léger (sales & marketing) has been working in the communications sector for more than ten years. After studying business administration and entrepreneurship, our Cannes-born publicist discovered his passion in the advertising business. During his free time, his interests lie in sports and nature. Daniel Naro (sales & marketing) nearly became a professional footballer in his northern French home of Metz. Plan B was the insurance industry, but 25 years later, he sought the sun and found it on the Côte d'Azur. After re-launching his career in the media, he recently joined the professional Riviera Press team. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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CONTENTS

SPECIAL Health & Wellness The Hotlist News from the region

Issue #186

SEE MORE, DO MORE, kNOW MORE

26-38 Lifestyle

Saint-Raphaël When wine leads to art: The art of Clos des Roses

14 Cover “Art Sanglé” by Cipre & Co ©Stéphane Cipre

Monaco Below Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo ©Monte-Carlo SBM

A 13-page dossier

In conversation with Mayor Georges Marsan

16 Honouring Monaco’s beloved princess

18 Transition Forum: The solution to climate change

20 Malizia II sails to the UN Climate Summit

21 Liguria Blu di Mare: A quality winery in the hills of Liguria

Floating Penthouse: New concept for the Côte d’Azur

38 Bugatti turns 110: The French brand celebrates with a roadtrip

40 Life Lessons: Shalini Aroraa kochhar

42 Gourmet The Negresco: Celebrate the holidays with a staycation

Business & Finance Nice-Beijing direct: The French Riviera opens to China

48 Let’s Fly: France’s only woman-owned private jet setvice

50 Monaco Start-up board: Monaco Invest invests in new business

52 SPECIAL Art & Culture An 18-page dossier

56-73

Taqueria Lupita: Authentic Mexican in Cannes

44 Majestic mixologist: The most unique barman of the Côte d’Azur

Events

74-77 Community Butts for beer: Stars’n’Bars’ offer to get cigarette butts off the ground

78 Giving thanks: Where to celebrate THanksgiving on the Riviera

79 Operation Dragoon: 75th anniversary of the Allied landing of Provence

80 Christmas A Provençal Christmas: 85 years of Santons

YOUR STORY TO INVENT, YOUR LEGACY TO LEAVE BEHIND... A delicious blend of a past that has become present,

La Bastide du Roy has been able to combine its history between kings, counts and princes as well as artists, stylists & rockers. A venue for events and weddings that is essential to the French Riviera.

3055 Av Michard Pelissier | 06600 Antibes | 07 88 22 36 49 bastide du roy

bastide du roy

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HOTL IST

Not so secret... VICTORIA’S SECRET OPENS AT CAP 3000

Just in time for the holiday rush, Victoria’s Secret is opening in Nice! If you’ve been missing your supply of ‘Love Pink’ knickers or a vast selection of bras, then head to CAP 3000 where the American lingerie store will be opening along with the new expansion at the end of October. While Victoria’s Secret has been open in the Paris and Nice airports, this is the only full retail outlet in the Alpes-Maritimes, opening simultaneously with the Paris boutique on the Champs élysées. For the 50th anniversary of the shopping centre, CAP 3000 has invested heavily on its ‘redo’, costing upwards of 450 million euros. The new west wing houses the Premium section with the addition of 150 new shops and 1,600 new parking spaces. Working with Percassi, the Italian company franchising American brands, Victoria’s Secret was a shrewd investment considering the brand closed the third quarter of 2018 with 1.35 billion Euros. With shops like Starbucks, Levi’s and Apple, CAP 3000 is becoming a haven for favourite American brands.  © Sorbis / shutterstock.com

Free Fall THE DREAM OF FLYING

Flying only with your own body who hasn't dreamed of it before? Bodyflying, or Indoor-Skydiving, called Chute Libre Indoor in France, is now also possible in the Région Sud: In mid-September the first Chute Libre Indoor Center in the south after Lyon and Paris was opened by the organiser iFly in the Aix-Marseille area. The latest technical generation of the facility features a vertical wind tunnel in a glass contained, 17-metre-high cylinder with a ground net. Through this cylinder, the air is sent from bottom to top at a speed of 180 to over 250 km/h with the aid of gigantic turbines which corresponds roughly to the speed at which a human body falls in a prone position. The air then circulates in large tunnels outside the cylinder in order to race through the glass simulator again in an endless loop.

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The attached flight school teaches all flight positions. iFly is suitable for training parachutists, for regular sporting activities or as a unique experience, even as part of company events. From €44.90 per person, in the Décathlon Village BoucBel-Air. 

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HOTL IST

Transport revolution in Nice By PETRA HALL

C Everything without a car Tram For several years, the city of Nice has been planning mass transport to replace the need for cars not only in the city centre but also the outlying neighbourhoods. Several years in, we are seeing the results. In addition to the three tram lines in Nice which are now almost fully operational, a fourth line has been approved, connecting the west of Nice with Saint-Laurent-du-Var and Cagnes-sur-Mer. The new line 4 is to serve a distance of 6.2 kilometres with 15 stops for a cost of 212 million euros. Construction is set to start in 2021 and be completed by 2025, or 2026 at the latest. This will certainly be a relief to commuters and should cut down road traffic considerably. Hike it For those who want to travel in an even more environmentally friendly way, the new hiking trail GR (Grande Randonnée) "Lou Camin Nissart" is a winner. Completely within the city limits of Nice, the main trail (shown in red on the map) is exactly the length of a marathon: 42,195 kilometres, but with variants (shown in blue), it becomes 60 km. The trail leads through city parks and over the surrounding hills and mountains, reaching almost 1,000 metres in altitude. Mayor Christian Estrosi personally inaugurated the route at the end of August on Mont Boron in East Nice and symbolically painted one of the white-red trail markings on a tree. Electric Bike Next summer, a 261-kilometre stretch designated for electric mountain bikes will be opened in Nice and the surrounding countryside. In seven stages, the course between the Auron and Nice ski resorts will lead through a total of 16 villages and over various mountains, including the Col de la Bonnette (altitude difference: 7,000 m). Each stage location will have loading and washing stations for bicycles. The cost for this project is 844,650 euros. 

TRAVEL NICE BY TRAM, BIKE AND ON FOOT

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hange is supposed to be good for Alzheimer's but not all participants of public transport in Nice saw it that way. Some people were lost at their usual bus stop, where they had been getting on "their" bus for years. Most of the timetables had disappeared. If you were lucky, there was another one hanging but it showed a completely different bus number and different routes. What had happened? On the 2nd of September, the bus system of Nice Metropole and surroundings was completely turned upside down - under the motto: ‘Get off the buses, all roads lead to the tram!’ 77 bus lines with 3,100 stops have been affected by the restructuring. At the intersections, the Lignes d'Azur staff provided passengers with advice and assistance. On the Promenade des Anglais, where buses used to travel back and forth a thousand times a day, only 120 electric journeys are now planned. A relief for air pollution, without a doubt. The orphaned bus lanes in the city centre: rue Joffre, Pastorelli, Hôtel des Postes, Liberté and de la Buffa, will become bike lanes. The new principle works like this: 90 per cent of the urban population and 75 per cent of the surrounding area are served by one tram or five buses, all of which run to one or more tram stops on lines two and three. These buses (numbers 5 to 9) run approximately every 15 minutes between 5 am and one o'clock in the morning and are called ‘à effet tram’. The aim is also to improve access to the transport network for the inhabitants of the suburbs around Nice and neighbouring municipalities. To ensure that more people leave their cars in the garage, new parking facilities will be created in Magnan, Bosquets and at the port (already completed). There will be a total of 600 additional spaces. There are still gaps in the system: the tram does not yet run from the airport to the port, which is expected from January 2020. Older people, in particular, are also complaining that they are having difficulty getting into the city centre. Well, who likes change? But at the end of the day, this revolution makes sense in Nice, as the city faces traffic congestion almost every day, especially at peak hours. What electrified the city at the beginning of September, just in time for the rentrée, will soon become part of everyday life. After all, man is a creature of habit. 

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HOTL IST

Beaujoulais Nouveau A CELEBRATION OF THE NEW HARVEST

A summer leads into fall, the French really know how to celebrate the arrival of the harvest season: with a national celebration of wine! And on a Thursday, no less. The official ‘release’ of the new Beaujolais hits the shelves and disappears almost as quickly. People stock up on cases of wine to drink the night away with friends and lots of charcuterie. There are banners, posters, events and just about every bar and restaurant will have a Beaujolais Nouveau event planned. This year, the national celebration takes place on 21 November, so mark your calendar as ‘busy’ and plan to get together with friends, as this is the celebration of conviviality. To find fun events near you, check local listings or search on social media with #IloveBeaujolaisNouveau 

Chinese lantern festival Baie des Lumières, or ‘Nice, Bay of Lights,’ is a traditional Chinese lantern festival on the French Riviera that will illuminate Phoenix Park from 29 November 2019 to February 23, 2020. This famous botanical and animal park in Nice, located a stone's throw from Nice Côte d'Azur Airport and now easily accessible with the new tramway line, will host some fifty illuminated paintings to delight young and old. More than 13 weeks of festivities are planned to take us through the winter season. As night falls, visitors will be able to discover more than 550 monumental lanterns as they stroll through the paths of Phoenix Park, including an 18-metre high Chinese wall and two dragons 50 metres long that will float on the lake! If you’ve ever been curious to experience Chinese culture and

NICE LIGHTS UP WITH CHINESE CULTURE

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celebrations, this is the perfect opportunity - without flying all the way to China, of course. Designed as a journey through Chinese traditions and know-how, the park will be illustrated by scenes of life and magical landscapes combining vegetation and architectural feats. Live performances, martial arts demonstrations and a food-corner will complete the unique festival to be enjoyed with the whole family. Visit the event website to book tickets: www.baiedeslumieres.com 

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HOTL IST

Shirl’s Row Shirley Thompson is doing it again! At the end of November, she will embark on a sole mission to row across the Atlantic Ocean, the only Irish woman to Photo 1 ever attempt it and the oldest woman to Shirley Thompson © D.R. attempt it. Some may remember our article ‘Shirl’s Photo 2 Row’ in 2018 about her rowing across the Shirley at sea with her boat, Atlantic for her 60th birthday. She had said Amigo © D.R. that her motivation for the trip was to “prove to myself and others that someone ordinary can do something extraordinary.” And that she definitely did. On 24 November 2018, Shirley set-off from the Canary Islands for what was supposed to be a three-month voyage to St. Barth’s - just her and Amigo, her trusty blue boat. Regardless of her months of preparation and gruelling physical training, the winds and the currents were intense and kept her from advancing and horrible seasickness prevented her from keeping any food down. Despite constant vomiting, she found the strength to deploy her parachute anchor to keep the sea from dragging her back to her starting point. But after four days, she was still just off the coast of the Canaries. She returned to land to regroup, plan a different course of action and wait for better weather. Determination courses through Shirley’s veins, and on the first of December, she was back in the water, heading for her goal. Nothing was going to stop her this time... Then she awoke one night soaking wet. Water had filled her cabin and had reached her bed which housed the electrical components. She immediately started bailing water, but it didn’t seem to make a difference. With her bed cushion floating beside her, she called the man who fitted and sealed her boat and planned her route. It was 3 am, she was desperate and his response was that he was hungover and asked her to call him back in a few hours. I could be dead in a few hours, she thought. Hanging up with her ‘go-to guy’, she had one last option - Shirley called the Coast Guard for rescue. The spotter plane found her quickly and fortunately, the leak happened while she was still within reach by helicopter. The rescue crew was fast but by the time they reached her, she had lost all electricity except her comms unit. Shirley recounts her harrowing experience with ease and laughter as if telling a tale of a normal adventure. When she describes her rescue, she is filled with gratitude and constantly remarks on the generosity and warmth of all those involved, especially her rescuer, who obviously holds a special place in her heart.

THERE SHE GOES AGAIN...

2 ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

As the helicopter whipped the sea around her, a man she describes as: “a cross between James Bond and the milk tray man” descended and “scooped me up to safety. He is an absolute hero.” As she was lifted high up into the air, her Amigo became smaller and smaller. Would she ever see it again? It took a good ten days of searching but she found her trusty boat and with the help of some very generous fishermen, she and Amigo were reunited and the boat was towed back to land. Since her return to terra ferma, she has been busy planning and training for the next departure. An investigation into what caused the boat to suddenly take on water showed that it was gross negligence in the refitting and sealing of the boat. Amigo was not even classifiable as seaworthy at her time of departure. She was lucky to have survived. Her harrowing experience has brought her quite a bit of attention, being interviewed for newspapers and magazines and she was even featured on the BBC’s ‘Close Calls’. What could have been a trauma to prevent someone from ever sticking their toe in the ocean again has just been fuel for her to push harder and try again. It’s the determination in her veins that keeps her going strong and she is ready for the next departure at the end of November. Amigo has been properly refitted and sealed and a better, safer route has been planned. Shirley describes her next attempt like an excited teenager and she welcomes everyone to follow her adventure on her Facebook page under ‘Shirl’s Row’. 

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S A I N T- R A P H A Ë L

When wine leads to art The art of Clos des Roses winery By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

The relationship between Laurence Barbero and art has been a love story for almost two decades now. Given her growing reputation beyond the borders of the French riviera and the success of the latest exhibitions at her winery, riviera insider speaks with Laurence to talk all things art and wine.

Laurence Barbero of Les Clos des Roses © D.R.

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n a hot summer day in August, Riviera Insider met Laurence Barbero at the Clos des Roses winery in Saint-Raphaël. As she started to explain how she got into art, it became clear that art has been part of Laurence’s life all along. Opened in 2006, the Clos des Roses winery seemed the perfect location to start exploring her passion for art. It began with the first Thursday of the month, when she organized tours of the winery alongside an art exhibition. It quickly became the place to be for art and wine lovers each month. One thing leading to another, Laurence experimented with the exhibitions and developed a reputation among artists. “I opened the winery’s doors and gave artists the opportunity to exhibit their art. Meanwhile, I was also experimenting and testing what could work or not, as well as what I liked. It was also a way to give local artists a space to be seen and heard,” she said. This was her first step into the art world. Then she met Richard Orlinski. She recalls: “Richard came to the winery for an exhibition and he truly was my first big revelation. I started asking myself if I should open a gallery or stick with those monthly exhibitions.” Laurence finally took a leap of faith and opened her first gallery in Saint-Raphaël in 2014. She isn’t afraid of saying that the first year was chaotic. She had a vision for the gallery, as she liked classical and neoclassical art – not the most popular at the time. Against all odds Laurence stuck to this vision. Talking about her journey through art, she realizes that the gallery led her to where she is now, with more urban, street and pop art pieces. “The gallery led me to showcase different artists that I had no idea would work in the first place. But people asked for the same artists over and over again. I had to lean in. I quickly realised that people were more attracted to someone like Stéphane Bolongaro and his Totor, than the work of an artist like Nicolas Lavarenne. I wasn’t wrong, I guess I was just late.” Laurence and her team spend a lot of time on social networks, trying to find the “next big thing” or the next trend. She is not alone in this journey – she currently heads of a team of curators that is entirely composed of women. They each come from very different areas of expertise, usually from the art trade or art history studies. Right now, one of them just graduated from a costume design school and the other one is a varnisher. Laurence declared that having young people from different horizons has been an advantage, as they bring new energy and often fresh and visionary points of view. This approach has paid off. The gallery in Saint-Raphaël now receives hundreds of applications each month. But Laurence learned not to wait for artists to come to her. On the contrary, most of the time she is the one ap-

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S A I N T- R A P H A Ë L

Lab’ at the gallery. This is a place to think and figure out alongside the artists what they were trying to say.” At this point, we come full circle. Laurence started with art at the winery, opening two galleries, traveling the world and now she returns back to the winery again. Her passion is clearly for art, but if you look closely, she never truly left the wine. Now Laurence would like to take the winery to the next level. “My ultimate goal would be to create a White Cube at Clos des Rose. I want to break all the rules with all the pieces of art I have collected and transform the winery into something else. I want to create something that will make people think. This idea is blooming in my mind but I’m not sure I’m quite ready for this next step yet.”

art et vin festival Les Clos des Roses, where artwork is often on display. © D.R.

proaching artists. “To me, it’s all about how I feel when I see a piece of art. This is when I know it’s going to affect people and it’s going to work.” For her latest discovery, she went all the way to Amsterdam to approach Ruben Verheggen and his ‘Donuts.’ These new pieces are more affordable and open up the art market to more people, as they enable them to buy an authentic piece of art for 250 euros. These donuts are now collectables and visitors come to the gallery especially looking for Verheggen’s Donuts.

The democratization of art Laurence believes that art should be available to everyone. She reflects on the past: “I remember when I started in the art world, the first thing a gallerist did when you entered their gallery was look at what you were wearing and judge whether or not you were likely to buy something.” She describes this as something that became too common

and wants to create an open feeling in her gallery. “Yes, it is an art gallery but if you want to wear flip flops, come in and look at the art, have fun, take pictures, take in all the culture, you can. That’s what I ask from the artist I work with: have fun!” This has created a warm and welcoming environment for both visitors and the artists. “Communication between artists and gallerists is key,” she says. Once Laurence opened her second gallery in Saint-Tropez, everything sped up for her. Today, she travels the world to meet and discover new talent, but she has difficulties leaving work behind when she is away. Few are the lucky ones who make the cut after applying to be showcased in her gallery. “Saying no is always hard, and it’s harder when it is local artists. I have a space to showcase their work and they have a right to express themselves, so generally speaking I try to make room for them. This is also one of the reasons why I created ‘The

For the time being, Laurence is happy with her partnership with “Art et Vin,” a cooperative of winemakers in the Var that bring together these two avenues of creation. A concept that is more than fitting for this woman who intertwined art and wine from the very beginning of her career. This year marks the third year Laurence and Clos des Roses participate in this art festival, nominated as godmother of the 2019 edition, along with Stéphane Bolongaro as godfather, who exposed his Totor in her vineyard. Finally, Laurence acknowledges that her interest for street art has decreased through the years. “At a certain period of my life I lived entirely from this type of art, now I’m more interested in a specific and unique ideas rather than something that will sell. Street art has been popularized so much through the years, it’s almost polluting galleries. We forget too easily that street art is born in the streets, an illegal art and that is exactly what was beautiful about it. Now unfortunately, pop artists are too clean. I want to highlight more artists who love what they’re doing and that have a positive message to convey.” 

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MONACO

In conversation with Monaco Mayor Georges Marsan His recipe for success? Closeness to citizens and teamwork Not everyone knows that Monaco has a mayor as well as a prince. and what a mayor! Since 2003, Georges Marsan has been at the head of the principality’s beautiful town hall, after being a town councillor since 1991. in an exclusive interview, the pharmacist graduate revealed why he has been re– elected for 16 years. ho would have thought: The town hall on the Rocher, few steps of the Palais Princier, is, after the Princesse Grace hospital, the Société des Bains de Mer and the Monegasque government, with 730 people, one of the most important employers of Monaco. A real challenge for the mayor, who can be re-elected indefinitely under local law, as he bears a responsibility similar to that of a large-scale entrepreneur. Asked about his recipe for success, he reiterates the importance he attaches to teamwork, but also to closeness to the citizens: "We have a team that is welded together and complements each other very well thanks to our various skills, which identifies with closeness to the citizen and social work," says Marsan. "The latter distinguishes us from the Princely Government’s Ministry of Health and Social Affairs, which is responsible, among other things, for health policy and old people's homes. He is convinced: "The city's policy must listen to the needs of the population and meet their expectations. This is what the mairie's annual programmes are ultimately geared to do. All social services benefit the Monegasque people as well as the foreign inhabitants.

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By PETRA HALL

The father of three is particularly proud of their work in childcare. Due to socialisation, almost all inhabitants of the principality - regardless of class or nationality - now send their children to kindergarten, according to Monaco’s first citizen. Other areas of responsibility include caring for the elderly, such as meals on wheels, tele-alarming and help at the domicile, so that senior citizens can stay at home for as long as possible. In order to avoid their possible isolation, there is a club called "Club le temps de vivre", which has just been given a new seat. Technology is a top priority for Monaco. Together with the government, the town hall is actively working on the country's digital future. Parking spaces on the streets are already equipped to pay by mobile phone, all bus stops will be equipped with Wi-Fi technology and numerous documents will be created via the Internet. Monaco is to have its own digital identity by 2020: For example, there will be a new generation of digital ID cards for Monegasque people, residence permits and work permits. Marsan describes the new health insurance card as revolutionary, as it will store all the information about the holder's health that can be accessed anytime, anywhere from a cloudbased digital safe. All these ongoing projects related to digital identity are under the responsibility of the Princely Government. Monaco is known and appreciated worldwide for its environmental policy. Of course, the mairie is fully involved here as well. By 2023, Marsan and his team want to completely replace their fleet of commercial vehicles and motorcycles with electrically powered models. Plastic containers of all kinds will be permanently banned and collectes circulaires have been organised by the mairie since December 2018. The latter is about helping give toys, books, clothing, teaching materials and other objects a second life and thus counteracting waste. The items are regularly collected and passed on by volunteers. These activities are mainly financed by donations – for example, the “Red Noses” clowns who give sick children some joy. The mairie often supports charitable events by providing logistics and personnel. “A special quality of Monaco is that there are so many volunteers and charities,” says

Monaco Mayor Georges Marsan © D.R.

Georges Marsan. “None of this would be possible without them. It is estimated that 500 associations exist here.” For Georges Marsan, the Principality is “the most pleasant country in the world.” And when the plans for the extensive liberation of traffic and the cable car leading from the Exotic Garden to Fontvieille become a reality, his happiness will probably be complete. 

INTERNATIONAL PRINCIPALITY 141 diﬀerent nationalities live in Monaco. in 2018 the total population was 38,300. Here is a breakdown of the top nationalities*:  French: 9,286

 Monegasque: 8,378  italian: 8,172

 english: 2,795  Swiss: 1,187

 German: 907  russian: 749

 american: 366 *Census of the institut Monégasque de la Statistique et des Études Économiques iMSee, 2016

WWW.CHAMPAGNE-PORGEON.FR | 03 26 50 29 46

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MONACO

Honouring Monaco’s beloved Princess Princess Grace’s 90th birthday commemorated o celebrate what would have been Princess Grace’s 90th birthday, a special tribute is planned by the Princess Grace Foundation-USA and author, Dani Carew. known throughout the world as a humanitarian, philanthropist, and artist, Princess Grace of Monaco was committed to helping others. During Her lifetime, she particularly helped emerging artists realise their career goals. In order to carry on Grace ’s legacy, Prince Rainier III of Monaco established the Princess Grace Foundation-USA as a non-profit, publicly-supported charity headquartered in New York. The foundation prides itself on continuing Princess Grace’s legacy of assisting aspiring artists to realise their dreams through the annual Princess Grace Awards. Their mission is to assist emerging talent in theatre, dance, and film by awarding scholarships, apprenticeships, and fellowships to artists in America.

To date, nearly 800 artists have received Princess Grace Awards, helping them to launch their creative careers. With the support of the Princess Grace Foundation-USA, artists have thrived in their creative journeys and many have gone on to achieve their industry’s most celebrated accolades including Tony Awards, Pulitzer Prizes, Emmy Awards, Mac Arthur “Genius” Awards, and more. Winners of this award include Cary Fukunaga, director of Bond 25, Jon M. Chu director of Crazy Rich Asians, Stephen Hillenburg, creator

of Sponge Bob Square Pants, Tony kushner, writer of Angels in America, and ballet principal dancers Maria kowroski, Gillian Murphy, Tiler Peck, Ethan Stiefel, and Lucien Postlewaite. On Saturday, 10 November at 6:00 pm, the Princess Grace Theatre will screen The Swan (1956), starring Grace kelly and Alec Guiness. The film will be followed by a gala dinner at the Fairmont Hotel with an auction benefitting the Princess Grace Foundation-USA.  To book tickets email: tributetoprincessgrace@beige.mc or call +377 97 77 02 34

Released in 2019, it premiered at the Cannes Film Festival in the Cannes Classics category (where it was nominated for the L'OEil d'or documentary award) and was official selection of the Deauville American Film Festival, Telluride Film Festival, the New York Film Festival and BFI London Film Festival. The film is by Pamela B.

Green and narrated by Oscar-winning actress and director, Jodie Foster. Both women will be present after the screening for panel discussion and answer questions from, the audience. On Friday, 4 October at 6 pm, the Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo, will be dressed in pink to host the first Pink Ribbon Monaco Awards, aimed at rewarding people who have accomplished actions and provided support, comfort and hope to women suffering with breast cancer. Recipients are selected with the help of Princess Grace Hospital and will be presented with a trophy created by British artist and Monegasque resident, Toby Wright. After the dinner, the facades of the Prince's Palace, the National Council of Monaco, the Monte-Carlo Metropolitan Hotel, the Odeon Tower, the Oceanographic Museum, the Monaco Yacht Club and the Monte-Carlo Casino will be bathed in pink light, as a sign of support for breast cancer victims and their families. The funds raised by these events will be partly donated to the Princess Grace Hospital in order to contribute to the comfort of the patients at the senology centre. 

Pink Ribbon Monaco The Principality paints the town pink nder the High Patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco and with the support of the Committee for the Promotion and Protection of Women's Rights, Pink Ribbon Monaco has organised two events to celebrate Breast Cancer Awareness Month. On Thursday, 3 October at 5 pm, the Cinéma des Beaux-Arts hosts a screening of Be Natural: Alice Guy-Blaché's unpublished story. This documentary presents the life of Alice Guy Blaché, a pioneer of cinema who seems to have been forgotten by history.

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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MONACO

Prince Albert II, Lionel Le Maux and Richard Attias at the Transition Forum ©Irene Hell

Transition Forum in Monaco The solution to climate change

Nobel Lauret Graciela Chichilnisky and Gunter Pauli, founder of the Blue Economy at the Transition Forum in Monaco. ©Irene Hell

t is a world sensation. While record heat waves were giving the Côte d’Azur a taste of global warming, a US Nobel laureate made an almost unbelievable announ-

cement: It is possible to prevent the Climate Apocalypse – and the oil industry will pay for it. Graciela Chichilnisky, the genius mathematics professor who designed and created the carbon market included in the kyoto Protocol, is once again about to make history. During the recent Transition Forum at the end of June in Monaco, Chichilnisky stunned the sweating audience. Together with a team of scientists led by Peter Eisenberger, she has not only developed a ground breaking carbon-capture technology, she has also managed to secure funds for the costly new technology from the least expected source. Exxon Mobil is going to invest massively in her company, Global Thermostat, she informs Riviera Insider and shows an Exxon press release dated June 27th. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

By IRENE HELL

“This is the solution to climate change!” Chichilnisky triumphs. While critics suspect a green-washing tactic of Exxon, Chichilnisky insists that it’s ‘all-hands-on-deck’ and massive investments would be needed to prevent the looming climate collapse. “If we do not act today, we will no longer be able to act tomorrow”, said Prince Albert II of Monaco during the inauguration of the Transition Forum which was orchestrated by Richard Attias & Associates last year. Since then, Lionel Le Maux, the President of Aqua Asset Management and Roberto Segré, the founders of the forum, have managed to establish the Transition Forum as a unique high profile platform which accelerates massive action for the United Nation’s goals. Jean Castellini, Monaco’s Minister of Finance and Economy, came to the forum in order to introduce his plans for a maritime shuttle between Nice and Monaco. “Some 40,000 people commute to Monaco every day,” the minister researched.

The boats would prevent traffic jams during the rush hours. Electric bicycles and electric taxis are also planned for Monaco. Christian Estrosi, the mayor of Nice, has finally managed to connect the airport to the tram system in his city. “This will help reduce traffic by 20% and eliminate 800 buses,” he explained during the Transition Forum. The former motorcycle racer now champions watershed management, incubators for start-ups, healthy school lunches, and a “zero plastic” campaign. Eric Philippon, a French entrepreneur, provides with his FAMAE foundation much needed incentives and funding. His 2 million Euro FAMEA Water Challenge Prize rewards innovative projects which protect our water. Philippon and the organizer of the Forum are aware that global action is required. Therefore, Justice kumar, a former Indian Supreme Court judge was invited to Monaco in order to point out how constitutions can be instrumental to pushing clean energy and combating waste. Many participants agreed that the women, who often function as the conscience of our planet, need to be empowered. “Women are the key,” insisted William kwende in a conversation with Riviera Insider. kwende, a former UN diplomat, activated his contacts to the World Bank and the African Development Bank in order to secure funding for a promising new food processing plant in Burkina Faso. “We have 1.5 million women in Burkina Faso producing 100.000 tons of shea butter,” kwende pointed out. In order to generate jobs and income, kwende is now processing organic shea butter, used in cosmetics and in chocolate, in this new plant – using solar energy of course. “Renewable energy represents the biggest opportunity in Africa,” the entrepreneur remarks, but worries: “The world has already lost more than 30 percent of its farm land.” Therefore his company AGRITECH operates in 15 countries in West Africa in order to enable sustainable farming. The solutions are there. Even financial giants like BlackRock are now looking for green investments. What it takes are high-level meetings such as Transition Forum in order to connect committed leaders which ignite global action. The next Transition Forum is planned for June 2020 in Monaco. 

“Women are the key,” insisted William Kwende, CEO of AGRITECH, Burkina Faso. Here in Monaco with Roberto Segré, cofounder of the Transion Forum and PR executive Grace Wong-Folliet ©Irene Hell

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MONACO

Malizia II sails to the UN Climate summit Pierre Casiraghi makes a sailor out of Greta Thunberg By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

nown for calling out the leaders of the world for their complete lack of action on climate change, Greta Thunberg has quickly become the face of the fight against climate change. The Swedish teenager created a worldwide movement originating from students striking against world leader’s inaction. Greta was invited to speak at the UN Climate Action Summit in New York but refused to take a flight to the summit, because of the plane’s carbon emissions. Pierre Casiraghi, son of Princess Caroline and Vice-President of the Yacht Club de Monaco, responded to her dilemma by offering passage to the US aboard the Malizia II, a zero-emission racing sailboat, sponsored in part by the Fondation Albert II. The eco sailboat is equipped with solar panels and underwater turbines that generate electricity supplying the navigations instruments, autopilot, water-maker, and a lab to test CO2 levels in the ocean along the way. In a statement about his commitment to the environment and to help Greta on her mission, he said: “I believe in bringing awareness

Charles Leclerc signs the palace register © Palais Princier Monaco

about rising global emissions and pollution due to human activity… Team Malizia and I are proud to take Greta across the Atlantic in this challenging mode of transport.” Setting an example for those who arrive at a climate summit by airplane, the 16-year-old boarded the sailboat in Plymouth on Wednesday 14 August along with professional sailor and skipper Boris Hermann, Pierre Casiraghi and Nathan Grossman as co-skippers and her father to set sail across the Atlantic Ocean. Greta was active on Social Media during the voyage, updating each day. After initially suffering sea-sickness, she told her followers that she quickly adapted and felt fine. A week into the journey she tweeted that days seemed to blend together while out at sea but overall, described the trip as 'camping on a roller coaster.' They arrived in the bay of New York on 28 August, precisely 13 days and 18 hours later. The

Malizia II’s average speed was measured to 11.2 knots for the 3,711 nautical mile trip. When arriving in New-York, Pierre Casiraghi stated: “I am full of praise for Greta’s courage and determination… I would like to thank everyone in the Malizia team and the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation. It was a very emotional moment sailing past the Statue of Liberty, and I thank everyone for all the support we received during this amazing adventure crossing the Atlantic.” German Skipper Boris Herrmann added: “We are proud to have had the opportunity to bring Greta across the Atlantic emission-free and safely. Her mission to highlight the climate change crisis is very much in line with the Malizia Ocean Challenge where we work with scientists and are actively involved with educating young people… I wish Greta all the best for her actions, strikes and speeches in America.” 

Charles Leclerc honoured by the Prince

negasque to race in the Monaco Grand Prix in decades. He didn’t win this time around, but only a few races later he climbed the podium for first place on the 1st of September for the Belgium Grand Prix and again at the following race in Monza for the Italian Grand Prix. It was an incredible celebration for Scuderia Ferrari to take first place in Italy on their 90th anniversary. On 11 September, after two consecutive wins, the Prince invited Charles and his family to the Palace to have the talented driver sign the Palace Register and honour him with a gift. Prince Albert is very proud of his young subject and described time hearing the Monaco National Anthem played at a Formula One race for the first time in his life as a “very emotional” moment. 

he young Monegasque Charles Leclerc is the golden boy of the Principality this year. At only 21-years-old, he started his F1 career with Ferrari and was the first Mo-

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MONACO

MoNegasque oLyMpiC athLetes The Association gets back in the game he Monegasque Association of Olympic Athletes reunited during a friendly and informal meeting on 20 September, 2019. About sixty of its members gathered around a barbecue in Fontvieille to discuss the coming year’s events. This gathering took place in the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II and many Monegasque personalities. Recently elected President of WAMA, Mr Jérémy Bottin thanked the Sovereign Prince for his presence and support, offering

him a polo shirt with the Association's new logo. President of the Monegasque Olympic Committee and member of the International Olympic Committee since 1985, H.S.H. Prince Albert II is an Olympian himself, having participated in five Olympiads from 1988 in Calgary to 2002 in Salt Lake City as a member of the national bobsled team. Beyond its unifying role, the Monegasque Association of Olympic Athletes has set, among other objectives, to work closely with the Mo-

Legende: H.S.H. Prince Albert II and the members of the Monegasque Association of Olympic Athletes. © Communication Department - Stéphane Danna

negasque Olympic Committee in order to promote, the values of Olympism in the Principality through various projects. 

NOTEWORTHY EVENTS

No Finish Line Monaco © Palomba

MiCs 2019

No FiNish LiNe

he 10th edition of the Monaco International Clubbing Show celebrates everything nightlife. This nocturnal trade show brings the world’s top liquor brands, music apparatus, furniture makers and lighting technicians together with restaurateurs, club owners and, of course, DJs. The highlight of the event is the NRJ DJ Awards that take place from 9 pm to 4 am, featuring David Guetta, The Avener, Offenbach, Jax Jones and more. MICS takes place from 6 – 7 November at the Grimaldi Forum.  www.mics.mc

elebrating the 20th edition of this immensely popular charity race, the 8-day endurance relay will take place from 16 to 24 November. Benefitting the children’s charity, ‘Children for the Future’, sponsors and donors, including HSH Prince Albert II commit to matching €1 for every kilometre covered. The circuit is 1,400 km and participants are encouraged to walk or run several times over the eight days. Open 24 hours per day, it can fit anyone’s schedule! Monaco takes the race very seriously. Last year, 15,000 participants covered 432,662 km, therefore raising €432,662 for charity. Participants can register as an individual, a team, or even with your pet! Registration is open until 8 November.  www.childrenandfuture.com

MoNte-CarLo Jazz FestivaL nder the high patronage of HSH Prince Albert II, the 2019 Monte-Carlo Jazz festival happens from 16 November to 1 December. The famous music festival, now in its 14th year, is open to all musical styles, but always keeps space for its traditional jazz roots. The festival is a favourite for fans and musicians alike, bringing a wide variety of performers including fresh new talent and unusual acts. Favourites like Herbie Hancock (22 November), Ludovico Einaudi (20 November) and more highlight the jammed-packed line-up. The festival opens with Michel Jonasz, a French jazz/rock performer on 16 November and travers genres with Snarky Puppy, a band playing a fusion of jazz, progressive rock, R&B and funk on 21 November. Also noteworthy is the Brooklyn Funk Essentials playing a mix of jazz, funk and hip-hop on 29 November. The festival closes with Gospel performed by the London African Gospel Choir, singing their hearts out on 1 December.  www.monacolive.com

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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LIGURIA

Blu di Mare A quality winery in the hills of Liguria

17 years ago there was only wasteland in this wonderful place in the hills between Diano Marina and imperia. The vision and determination of the Merano family has turned it into a paradise: "Poggio dei Gorleri", a winery with an elegant agriturismo. By SUSANNE ALTWEGER-MINET

ÂŠ De Walter Bilotta / Shutterstock.com

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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LIGURIA

in small quantities of 2500 bottles. The leaver a cappuccino under bright ding Italian wine guide "Vini d'Italia" by Gamwhite umbrellas we enjoy the bero Rosso gave high awards in all overwhelming view over the sea, categories. The Albium was the winner: while marketing manager Federica Marvaldi three times three Gambero Rosso glasses, tells us the still young story of the Azienda. 92nd place in the "International Wine ReIt all started in 2003 from scratch - with two port" in 2015 for the best wines in the world hectares of vineyards that have now grown and 20th place in the "Decanter World Wine to 15. Only the region's own grapes from naAwards" in 2016 with 90 points. The pride can tural and sustainable cultivation are presbe seen in the sympathetic Signora Federica sed. when she tells us about these The focus is on the indigenous successes. grapes Vermentino and Pigato In the meantime, family head from Diano Marina, Albenga and Giampiero Merano has joined Andora with about 80 percent. The “THE NAME FOR us, bringing the facts to life red grapes Granaccia and DolTHE VERY LIGHT with temperament and pascetto da Ormeasco grow around sion. On the way to the wine Pieve di Teco. About 130,000 botVERMENTINO cellar, he prepares us for a tles of wine are produced every "BLU DI MARE" disappointment that is probayear. Responsible for this is REFLECTS THE bly often experienced: "RoDavide. He is not a trained wineLANDSCAPE” manticism is not to be maker, but a passionate one. He expected here". For this we is inspired by his father Giamcome into a chrome, flashing, piero. And the famous oenologist computer-controlled cantina. Beppe Caviola from Piedmont The cellar looks a bit like a supports him with his creations. huge laboratory. The wines mature for six to The result was young and innovative wines twelve months, mostly in steel tanks. Wooof varying, but always high quality, which den barrels are not missing either. They give are consistently oriented to Ligurian tradithe red Granacchia its barrique taste. In detions. A good introduction is the "Vermentino tail, the patron informs us about the vines, blu.dimare", a fresh dry wine, which should soils and climatic conditions, which differ be drunk young and at about 12 degrees. In considerably even in the relatively small culthe middle category the Vermentino is the tivation area - for example in terms of clay, "Vigna Sorì" and the Pigato the "Cycnus", iron or lime content and the ability of the good companions for tasty food. The "Flagsoils to retain water, i.e. those factors which ship" wine is "Albium", a pigato which, after affect the quality of the wine. And, of twelve months in steel barrels and another course, sustainability: nature and the enviyear of maturation in the bottle, is only sold

ronment are at the forefront of every step. Chemicals are avoided as much as possible in the vineyard and in the cantina. This fascinates me as much as the immediately eye-catching design of names and labels. They are all Giampiero's ideas. For example, the name "Cycnus" for Pigato goes back to Greek mythology, when Jupiter turned into a swan to seduce the beautiful Leda. The name for the very light Vermentino "blu.dimare" reflects the landscape as well as the "Sori", in Ligurian dialect the word for sun. The colours can then be found on the labels. "Albium" goes back to the Roman origin of Albenga, which with its countryside is the best cultivation region for Pigato. It needs good clay soil and proximity to the sea. The Rosato "Boccadirosa" is named after a famous folk song by Fabrizio de André that everyone in Italy probably knows, and which it melodically intones. The "Rebosso" was named after a sharp wind that blows only between Capo Mele and Ventimiglia. Surfers appreciate it because in this weather wind and waves are in opposite directions. So the morning flies by and we treat ourselves to a wine tasting at the end of the day. The owner serves small delicacies and we start with the lightest simple "blu.dimare" and end with the full-bodied red Shalok, which can compete with top wines from more famous regions. It convinces with its aroma and complex elegance. The tasting confirms that the wonderful wines unite their peculiarities harmoniously in the name, in the label and in the contents.  ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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WELLNESS

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

WELLNESS

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Contents Spas in 5-star hotels are some of the most luxurious and oppulent places to be pampered and we bring you inside one of the best Monaco has to offer, Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo. However, rest and relaxation isn’t just about luxury. in this special, we cover a wide range of wellness centres from a roman style spa in Provence, to ayurvedic healing in valbonne and exercises for rejuvenating face yoga. We also cover cosmetics, featuring a local company literally changing the skin pigmentation market and a duo of sisters from Nice bringing natural, non-toxic skincare to men. We have some expert advice on cleaning up your beauty routine and how to nourish your skin from the inside. Finally, we take a look inside a unique centre at the archet hospital in Nice, offering dignified palliative care for those at the end of this adventure we call life.

Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo: The ultimate in luxury

28 Nunii Cosmetics: Changing the face of pigmentation

29 archiman: Bringing natural skincare to men

30 Shanti Life: Healing body & soul in valbonne

32 escape the ordinary: Pampering in Provence at aroma Spa Bérard

34 Shed years with Face Yoga: a natural way to tone and tighten

35 Post-summer skin repair: Healthy radiant skin begins from within

36 Cleaning your beauty routine: a guide to alternative beauty choices

37 The smiling ward: The Palliative centre at archet Hospital

38 Photo: The indoor pool at Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo ©MonacoSBM

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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WELLNESS

THERMES MARINS A sanctuary in Monte-Carlo

n the world of 5-star hotel spas, luxurious pampering is usually a given. An array of treatments, from massage to facials to cellulite wraps are par for the course. However, the Thermes Marins Spa in Monte-Carlo goes beyond the normal, not only with their breath-taking views of Port Hercule from nearly every room but also an exquisite offering of unique, hard-to-find treatments. Checking into the reception area, I am handed my spa agenda for the day and escorted down to the changing room. Once comfortably dressed in the spa robe and sandals, I try to remember what floor I was told my massage was on. But once I exit, my ‘guide’ was there waiting for me. I quickly understand that I no longer had to think of anything. massage The Monte-Carlo sur-mesure massage is fully customisable for any style you prefer and can focus on a particularly stubborn area where you may hold the most tension. For me, and probably most people who spend too much time in front of the computer, it’s my shoulders that need the most attention. Afterward, I was escorted upstairs to the beauty treatment floor where I stopped dead in my tracks in complete awe of the view. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out over the port, La Rocher and the sparkling sea. It was a glorious day and the sun was illuminating the space like God himself was welcoming us. The La Prairie display case was also lit in a heavenly glow . For my Cellcosmet Swiss Deluxe ProCollagen eye contour treatment, I was led to a large room with a bed up against windows with the same view. It seemed almost a cruel joke to have such a view with my eyes covered with cotton! But the warm sunshine on my skin was a relaxing addition. l’hirondelle For lunch, I headed to l’Hirondelle, the spa’s healthy restaurant overlooking Port Hercule where I met with Christophe Fautrier, head of SpaO services, Manipulative Therapy and Technological Treatments. We had a fascinating conversation about health and wellness, from nutrition to sports recovery to mental health. We could have chatted for hours. He is clearly an expert at choosing the best treatments and technology on the market. Always looking for what makes a place different from others, I ask what the spa’s most unusual offer is (aside from the stunning location and corresponding views): “The cryotherapy chamber,” he replies without hesitation. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

By NICOLE RUSKELL

cryotherapy One of only three in the South of France, Thermes Marins’ Cryotherapy chamber is held at a constant temperature of around 110 degrees Celsius. The ‘treatment’ is just to stand inside the two square-metre room for 3 minutes. The entire process, from changing out of your clothes to getting dressed again is 15 minutes. Not bothering to sugar-coat it, Mr Fautrier describes the chamber as “a horrible experience” and admits that most people vow to never do it again. But a few hours later, the pain relief, increased mobility, brighter skin and clearer thinking is so dramatic that people come back again and again. In fact, despite only 15-minute time blocks, the room is usually booked all day. “Many clients who visit Monaco on business will call me to book a treatment every day of their stay,” he tells me. Cryotherapy is also very popular with athletes, especially Formula One drivers, who swear by the almost immediate muscle recovery.

Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo. ©MonacoSBM

mind-management The newest programme that Mr Fautrier has been developing for the spa is what he calls ‘Mind Management.’ This idea stems from the need to find balance in our increasingly hectic world. With twenty years of experience as a wellness practitioner, the treatment director has a breadth of knowledge not only about health and wellness but also about the direct caring of people. Many times, he explains, it is during a massage that a client will open up emotionally and express their worries and fears. Over the years, he and his staff have seen a marked increase in the clientele’s stress levels and their inability to balance it all. This inspired his latest project - a unique programme to help people centre their thoughts and release emotional tension with mindful exercises such as breathing techniques, guided meditation or even deep tissue work. This one-on-one session with a trained practitioner is about giving the client a safe space to release tension, learn tools to channel stress in a healthy way and find peace in everyday situations. The Mind Management programme launches this autumn, as a stand-alone one-hour treatment or a 30-minute add-on to other treatments. 

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WELLNESS

NUNII LABORATOIRE Revolutionising pigmentation skincare By NICOLE RUSKELL

riginally from Ireland, Niamh Cogan wanted to be an entrepreneur for as long as she can remember. In 2018, her company, Nunii Laboratoire (founded with Francois Montcreol, a doctor of molecular biology), was named Start-up of the Year by the Riviera Business Club panel of judges. But her journey started nearly 20 years earlier when she moved to France, working sales in aesthetics. Niamh feels lucky that she “wound up” in the cosmetics industry and tells Riviera Insider that everything she did led her to this business. The idea for Nunii came in 2013. At the time, she was travelling often and customers were always asking her for a solution for skin hyperpigmentation. It was this repeated demand that she could never fulfil that spoke loud and clear about a gap in the market. “Hyperpigmentation is a problem that affects every skin type on every continent and every nationality. Wrinkles, as far as I’m concerned, are very well dealt with but pigmentation has not had any innovation,” she tells RI. When Niamh sat down to research the market, she saw that there had’t been any significant formula changes since the 1950s. “All manufacturers,” she says, “use the same ingredients, just different recipes, re-edited and re-packaged. It can all look different, but when you sit down in front of an excel spreadsheet, everyone uses the same ingredients. And there are problems with these ingredients.” These ‘problems’ are that the ingredients are toxic and can have detrimental effects on people’s skin. One ingredient in the ‘drug’ ca-

tegory, the key active chemical in pigmentation products, is Hydroquinone. This substance can be so damaging if not used correctly that it has been banned in the EU market without a prescription. The reason Hydroquinone works is because it is so toxic to the skin cell that it destroys the cell’s melanocyte (which gives skin its colour). It’s very effective and very quick and usually used together with retinoids, Vitamin A and cortisone. There are a lot of side effects but doctors “love it” because it gets results very fast and patients seem happy. Hydroquinone is still available over the counter in the US, so women can use it freely on themselves without any supervision. “They have no idea how toxic this chemical is,” she adds. But the cosmetics industry is a multibillion euro business and companies want products that work fast. Niamh reveals that despite the EU ban, there are many manufacturers that still secretly use Hydroquinone in the recipe. “We’ve tested products and they have had to be taken off the market,” she says with a foreboding tone. There are other topicals that are effective, but they come with side effects because they irritate the skin so much. To be effective, they have to be in high concentrations - the most problematic side to depigmentation treatments. “A woman usually has to take time off of work, her face gets very swollen and she has a deep peeling of the skin on her face. We wanted to prove to the market that it was possible to have a simple to use treatment

Nunii Laboratoire’s UniqWhite System

with a home care kit that is effective and without controversial harmful ingredients.” Niamh partnered with Dr Montcreol to discover new ingredients that can successfully treat pigmentation and revolutionise the industry. “We decided to approach the University of Nice Sophia Antipolis, which was bold because that is usually done by much larger companies like L’Oreal.” The university agreed, and they created a research project with the CHU hospital in Nice, CERN (the National Institute of Health and Research) and Professor Ballotie, director of a team who researches Melogenesis, the formation of pigmentation of the skin which covers everything from melanoma to vitiligo to pregnancy mask. While that was going on, they launched their first product, UniquWhite System. “We eliminated the toxic ingredients and replaced them with a complex of ingredients that are less offensive, less controversial and work on multiple aspects of the pigmentation,” says Niamh. “Our objective was to create something easy to use, non-irritating and safe for all skin types. We use ten active ingredients, some that are currently used, and some that haven’t been used in pigmentation before and this is our first patent.” The at-home kit contains no parabens or perfumes and they eliminated all the ingredients that can cause irritation or unwanted side effects. The French Ministry of Health conducted a trial with the full programme, including an in-clinic treatment once every two weeks in addition to the home kit. “We had really excellent results, with up to 40% reduction in pigmentation after two months. Our product ranked superior in reducing epidermal pigmentation and reducing the volume of pigmentation. But most of all, it’s the tolerance of the patient that was marked good to excellent.” Their website has a list of aesthetic medicine doctors who offer their treatment and their blog is a wealth of information on all things skin related, including which sunscreen really works, why waxing can lead to darkened skin and so much more.  www.nunii-laboratoire.com

Niamh Cogan, winner of the RBC Start-up of the Year Award.

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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WELLNESS

ARCHIMAN Nice-based men’s skincare line in Dubai than in Times Square!" remembers karine. Under the lead of the two sisters, the brand caught the eye of the big players and Urban Decay was acquired by the L'Oréal group in 2013.

Developing their own brand

Created by two sisters from Nice, archiman is an all-natural grooming and skincare line for men. Karine and Stéphanie Coccellato are passionate, endearing perfectionists and committed to providing men with highquality, eﬀective skincare products.

rom a very young age, these dynamic sisters were interested in the world of cosmetics. In 2007, karine become the marketing rep for the American brand Urban Decay and she fell in love with the company: "I loved the international contacts that the brand allowed me to have and I immediately adhered to the Californian managing model, which gave space to the human being first." explains the young woman. Very quickly she started to develop the brand in France to much success. Two years later, she moved their offices to the mythical Promenade des Anglais. karine plucked her sister from the world of accounting/management to make Stéphanie her ‘right-hand man’, taking charge of the entire HR department and restructure the organization of the company. Together, the two Niçoises worked miracles. From a team of two, then five, then 30, then 50, they developed the brand throughout Europe and the Middle East. "Urban Decay made more money ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

The two sisters quickly decided to take a leap of faith, driven by their experiences, their network and the entrepreneurial spirit that drove them from the very beginning. Their goal: "To launch a company, but not like the others." There is a sweet insolence in these adventurers and a clear desire to break the rules and go ever higher. karine affectionately describes their entrepreneurial adventure as "a barefoot marathon on gravel in full sunlight." Market research, sourcing, Business Plan... several months of intensive work was necessary to identify what would be their life project: "The men's cosmetics market currently represents 11% of the French cosmetics market. This market is expected to reach $166 billion by 2022, with an average annual compound growth rate of 5.4% between 2016 and 2022. However, there are no - or few - real brands dedicated to men. They are often extensions of female ranges and men do not find themselves in them," explains Stéphanie. The challenge of democratizing and de-complexing the use of cosmetics is obvious, but the two young women, faithful to their philosophy of thinking "outside the box" went further. They blended French “savoir-faire” with respect for men and respect for the environment.

They are strict about natural sources and refuse to include toxic ingredients. "Our first big challenge was to find a laboratory able to create products that didn't contain any ingredients from our “ArchiBlacklist” in order to meet our need for healthy and eco-responsible products," explains karine.

a french riviera product line This laboratory was found right on karine and Stéphanie’s childhood ground. The desire to work with the French Riviera ecosystem was a priority for them. They solicited local experts for every stage of their brand's creation: from the logo's design and packaging, to the formulation of the products, including the soft scent of their products developed by a local "nose" and their signature ingredient: the brown seaweed from the Mediterranean, renowned for its anti-pollution effects. Launched just a year ago, there are five products in the Archiman SkinCare range: moisturizing and anti-aging face cream; facial moisturizing gel; anti-aging eye serum; AlphaHydroxy acid facial cleanser; and 3-in-1 cleanser for face, body and hair. Responses have already been impressive. Within a few months, the brand has been awarded two exceptional awards: the Pure Beauty Global Award and the CosmeticMag Oscar. There are few things up their sleeves, a natural deodorant and beard products. It’s an encouraging start for karine and Stéphanie, who have just signed a "very good contract in Asia" and are full of more projects to come. 

For more information on their products go to: www.archiman.fr

riviera

WELLNESS

SHANTI LIFE Healing body and soul in Valbonne By NICOLE RUSKELL

hat is true wellness? Thanks to years of advertising, most of us immediately conjure images of spa treatments and beautiful women wrapped in white towels with hands delicately touching her face – pictures like some you’ll see on the pages of this special. But real true wellness is something much deeper and more important. Shanti Life is a family-owned holistic wellness centre at the crossroads of Valbonne and Mougins. This private home turned healing sanctuary offers a complete line of spa treatments, yoga classes, Pilate’s instruction, osteopathy, cranial-sacral treatments and even DNA testing for a customised nutritional plan. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

Founder Lata Roose is a warm, gentle woman who brings Shanti Life literally to life with her caring, motherly presence. She also brings her knowledge of ancient Ayurvedic principles and chakra energy healing that transmits through her hands like no other. She is in charge of the spa and beauty treatments, which includes several types of massage (including child and baby massage for calming the little ones), non-invasive cellulite treatments with the LPG machine and infrared skin repair. My choice was the Ayurvedic massage and the moment Lata laid her hands on me, there was an instant feeling of connection. The best way to describe this is in comparison to other masseuses who you can sometimes feel as if they are busy or distracted and just going through their trained motions. The resulting feeling is just having some person pushing your skin around for 60 minutes. With Lata, she not only gave a powerful massage that melted away deeply held tension, it felt like she was moving and healing my energy. At certain chakra points along my back she created intense heat with her hands and swept this up and across my body, creating an energising experience. At the end when I stood up, I felt like my feet were firmly planted on the ground. It was perhaps one of the best massages I’ve had. Lata prepared an organic ginger tea for me and we chatted for quite a while about health and

Lata Roose of Shanti Life © D.R.

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WELLNESS

wellness and how she and her family came to open Shanti Life. “I chose this property because it felt homely, was easily accessible and provided parking,” she explained. “Parking was important because coming here should not cause any stress.” She admitted that in the beginning, they had no clients and it was a stiff waiting game to see if people would come. But they did and the business grew by word of mouth. Today they have a solid clientele and still have their original clients - a testament, she says, to their satisfaction.

osteopathy & genetic support Sebastiaan Roose is the resident Osteopath, who is also co-owner and Lata’s son. Trained in sports physiology and cranial sacral work, he has dived head-first into nutrition and functional medicine. Working with a Dutch company, he offers DNA testing to create a customised nutrition plan according to your genetic profile. If a patient has a gene that prevents proper digestion of a type of food or the production of a vitamin or mineral, it will show up on the test and he can provide supplements that treat it. Sebastiaan tells Riviera Insider that the genetic test results are incredibly informative about how each person’s body behaves and functions. Patients are often shocked at how well the results describe them and he often gets comments like: “How can you describe me so well? It has taken me 50 years to learn this about myself!” So who does he recommend this test for? Well, besides everyone, he points out it is a great tool for people who suffer from

Sebastiaan Roose, Osteopath at Shanti Life © D.R.

mysterious or unresolvable health issues, but you also don’t need to be sick for it. He highly recommends it for children: “Imagine how long it has taken for us to learn what our body needs. With children, we learn straight away what their nutritional needs are.” Why is genetic testing useful? We can all be ‘carriers’ of certain genes - good or bad, such as the dreaded genes linked to cancer. But being a carrier of a cancer gene does not mean you will definitely get it. “Genes are like guys sitting on a bench with arms crossed,” describes Sebastiaan. “They won’t activate unless something in their environment triggers them.” This is why having a detailed profile from a simple mouth swab is so useful. “It gives a blueprint of the body.” The DNA test is also highly recommended for women in preparation for pregnancy, explaining that many genetic mutations that form in the womb can be a result of nutritional deficiencies in the mother. If this is checked before or even during the pregnancy, he says, there is a better chance of preventing any unwanted genetic defects. In addition to the Rooses, Shanti Life brings in other practitioners for a wider offering of ser-

vices. They have group yoga and Pilates classes throughout the week and are active in community activities. Started by expats, Shanti Life is a haven for the expat community. They speak French, English, Dutch, German and even Hindi. “Sometimes when you don’t feel well it’s just nice to speak your own language,” says Lata. Yet another reason to feel completely at home. 

COMMUNITY POP-UP Just in time for your New Year’s resolutions, Shanti Life will be hosting a community taster weekend at the start of 2020. Practitioners from across the region will be present with stands to oﬀer a ‘taster’ of what they do. From bodywork to counselling, natural cosmetics, face yoga and healthy food demonstrations, everyone is invited to try out the great services they oﬀer.

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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WELLNESS

ESCAPE THE ORDINARY

By NICOLE RUSKELL

Pampering in Provence at Aroma Spa Bérard

n today’s hectic world, sometimes you need to just get away… and why not get away in a place that transports you to another time and place? In the hills of the Var, about 45 minutes from Marseille, the Hostellerie Bérard sits in the village of Cadière d’Azur. This family-run establishment provides a full-service spa with an unusual style. Aroma Spa Bérard is designed in the pure tradition of ancient Rome with thermal baths, fountains, a tea house and so much more. And anyone with an interest in history will get a kick out of the room names. It is common for spas to be decorated with contemporary and minimal décor, which can sometimes feel sterile and cold. But Aroma Spa’s décor of Roman decadence is anything but that. From the moment you step inside, it feels warm, soothing and other-worldly. The environment is filled with the delicate scent of their own custom essential oil blend while the sound of flowing water comes from fountains. Wall frescoes of Roman vestals in togas, stone statues and bottles of ointments and essential oils are nestled in brick walls. These tributes to the past are done with taste – nothing kitsch – just a luxurious space for complete rest and relaxation. The Aroma Spa has 500 square metres of relaxation space spread across ten areas on three levels. A sauna, Hammam decorated with Murano glass mosaics, ice spring, scrub room and pools

with massaging water jets are all on the ground floor. This is a great place to spend some time, moving between the rooms as if doing circuit training for relaxation, detoxification and skin brightening. Staying true to Roman design, the Thermal baths, located on the second floor, have four main rooms: the Laconium which is the dry sweat room, the Caldarium for the hot bath, the Tepidarium for the warm bath and the Frigidarium for the cold bath. The baths are supplied through an aqueduct that runs water through the three baths and heats the floor – a system known as hypocaustum. The second floor is also where you’ll find Lara, the meditation area. Lara is one of the names given to the goddess of silence. We should bring back the goddess of silence – she’s highly underrated. Fresh herbal tea from their garden is served in the tea house, named Laurus Nobilis. How’s your Latin? Can you guess what this room is named after? You may have it in your garden...

of health and prosperity; Flora, a nymph who was granted eternal youth by her adoring husband, Zephyr (they don’t make men like that anymore); and Carmenta, a deity of water. With all the baths and the Hammam and the sauna and the meditation room, one could pass the day without even getting a treatment. But why skip the opportunity to have hot stones place along your spine and your muscles deeply massaged? Aroma Spa Bérard is truly a unique place for a getaway, whether immersed in the healing waters inside, or for a stroll through gorgeous Provençal landscape outside. To celebrate their 50th anniversary, they are offering the exclusive ‘Evasion Majestueuse’ massage, a 75-minute face and body massage customized to your needs with their signature blend of Provence essential oils for €150. Two hours of spa access costs €40 (€35 for guests of the hotel), plus €20 for each additional hour. One of hour of access is included with each spa treatment. If you’re lucky enough to live nearby, they offer membership cards with multiple treatment discounts. 

spa treatments

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

The first floor is where the treatments begin, with six rooms to pamper you. The rooms are cleverly dedicated to the Roman God who fits the treatment - such as the Venus room, where the couples treatments are made. Make a mental note for Valentine’s Day (wink, wink). Junon was queen of the gods and protector of women. This is the room where facial treatments are done. Clearly. Body treatments take place in three different rooms, named: Sirona, who was a Gallic goddess

WELLNESS

riviera

SHED YEARS WITH FACE YOGA A natural way to tone and tighten By EVA LU

mental, physical, and emotional story. In practice, I observe the features of the face and also assess what the Chinese call “shen” to develop customized sessions for clients. Shen is the life force that can be observed from the coloring of the complexion, the awareness and clarity in the eyes, and the soul that emanates from within – or in a word, GLOW.

redefining “aging”

ging gracefully and naturally is not just a trend, it’s a lifestyle shift for the mind, body, and spirit. People all over the world are looking for ways to rejuvenate their face, to maintain their youth, or to age gracefully without undergoing the knife or injections. Fortunately, Face Yoga is one of the ways that offers long term rejuvenation and nurturing for those who are searching for a natural way to embrace and work with the body’s natural process of aging.

What is face Yoga? Just like it sounds, Face Yoga is a series of exercises to sculpt the facial muscles through breathwork, isolating facial muscles through relaxation and contraction. Face Yoga is a method to add suppleness and tone to the geography of the face as it changes due to the natural loss of bone density, fatty deposits, and muscle integrity. Effective at building facial symmetry and retraining the expressions of the face, Face Yoga can be done anywhere, at any time, and only takes a few minutes to do each day. It can be a fun way to relax the mind and body while bringing more awareness and oxygen into your cells with each pose. Consistency is key to real and lasting results. Consider the face as a map. “Aging” of the face tells the story of one’s experiences throughout life, and essentially, it is like an open book, a collection of the habitual emotions and expressions that can imprint and manifest into physical signs like uneven skin tone, hollowness, dryness, puffiness, lines, redness, patchiness, and skin eruptions. These external signs can show to the trained eye the internal

Face Yoga empowers users to age gracefully through self-awareness while reconditioning muscles and facial expressions to prevent and smooth out the skin with simple exercises. By stimulating blood circulation for a glowing complexion, it encourages lymphatic drainage for detoxifying the face; decreases puffiness; and increases the natural production of the skin plumping proteins collagen and elastin. Face Yoga coaxes and opens the radiance of one’s soul through the face, like a blossoming flower. This method retrains habitual movements and expressions by waking up and relaxing the muscles, similar to exercising body. On the psycho-somatic level of treating the mind, body, and spirit, Face Yoga helps to release stagnation from trauma and unexpressed emotions that get stuck in the face and body. Subtle changes can be experienced after the

first session, including softening of the nasolabial folds, relaxing of the forehead and lengthening of the neck and jawline. Practicing the poses a few minutes a day is the way to reap the lasting and long-haul benefits of Face Yoga and to change the overall facial landscape. Face Yoga may be used safely after injections of Botox and fillers have settled down into the treated muscles (after 5 to 6 weeks). Some people also turn to it for rehabilitating the muscles after facial trauma, stroke or Botox damage. It can also help reduce inflammation and stagnation after surgical procedures by increasing blood flow to nourish the muscles and to maintain their tone and integrity. Caution with pregnancy and a history of certain medical conditions; if you are at risk, please consult your doctor before starting any of these treatments. As with any exercise program, it is best to establish a routine and build up on the foundation over time with a trainer who specializes in Face Yoga. 

EXERCISES FOR LIFTING THE NECK AND JAWLINE Begin by sitting or standing with both feet planted on the ground. Close your eyes. inhale slowly and gently through your nose, filling your chest and abdomen for five counts and exhale slowly through your nose for five counts. repeat five times. Open your eyes. 1) Platysma Stretch (contraindicated with neck pain or injury): Gently anchor skin below your collar bone with the palms of your hands, one hand over the other hand. Place your chin to chest. Slowly lift and follow your gaze toward the sky with your chin. Challenge: rest your tongue at the roof of your mouth. Keep the neck neutral without overextension. Hold this pose for five rounds of breath – inhale, exhale through the nose. effective for lengthening and lifting the neck and jawline! 2) Big O: Drop your jaw as if you are yawning; you can use the pads of your fingers to tap gently around your jaw and neck in this pose. remember to breathe! Hold this pose for 3 rounds of breath. Keep your neck neutral. Challenge: Lift your gaze upward to the sky. Great for relaxing tight jaws. Perform this sequence one to two times per day and relax your forehead and shoulders throughout the poses.

EVA LU eva Lu, a trained and licensed provider of Traditional Chinese Medicine from California. She is certiﬁed in Face Yoga Method and Sculptural Face Lifting. www.laﬂoraisonwellness.com Eva Lu © Fotini Efstathiou of Social Fox Creative

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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WELLNESS

POST-SUMMER SKIN REPAIR Healthy, radiant skin begins from within Niacin (B3) is found in avocado and turkey and helps to speed up skin cell regeneration - essential for repairing sun damage, acne hyperpigmentation, and reduces the symptoms of rosacea. Niacin also helps your skin to retain moisture, so make sure you are properly hydrated! Turkey has 30 x more niacin than avocado. Green Tea - Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), the antioxidant found in green tea has been shown prevent genetic damage in skin cells exposed to UV radiation. A large mug of green tea (250ml) with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to add the vitamin C may help achieve that post-summer glow!

season of summer indulgences, whether it be swimming in chlorinated pools, several weeks of rosé wine, or too much sun bathing, our skin can look a little worse for wear. Once the summer holidays are over, we can be left with dehydrated and perhaps wrinkly skin, sun damage, blocked pores and chapped lips. So what´s the best remedy? Good nutrition can help protect the skin not just pre-holiday season, but also post-holiday to help the skin repair. The skin can be thought of as the window to overall health of the body. It is the largest elimination route for toxins, so an overworked liver from a long summer of excesses can show up on the skin. The simplest step to a fresher complexion is to address water intake. Well-hydrated skin looks plump and less wrinkled. Aim to drink two litres of water or herbal teas each day, more if you are exercising and perspiring. Add lemon/lime, mint leaves, slices of apples or pear to pep up your water and try to avoid drinking water from plastic bottles by using a glass or stainless steel container. Photo ageing from sunlight is responsible for up to 90% of thinning and wrinkling of the skin as the ultra violet light affects the flexible tissue, collagen and elastin which helps skin regain its shape. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and it helps give skin a youthful glow as well as supporting strength and stability of skin tissue. Although we produce collagen it relies upon several nutrients to do so such as vitamin C, zinc and copper. Every 35 days skin cells are replaced and new cells created from what is consumed. A diet rich in anti-oxidants, found primarily in fruits and vegetables, and essential fatty acids, will help support and repair skin tissue. Yet another reason to eat several portions of veggies and a little fruit each day!

Top nuTrienTs for supporTing skin healTh Collagen, collagen and yet more collagen! Benefits of consuming collagen far outweigh topical application. Throw together a pot of bone broth to stimulate your collagen levels and support complexion. Vitamin C is a fabulous skin booster that can brighten skin tone and decrease appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps to protect existing collagen. The best food sources are citrus fruits, strawberries, guava, kiwi, bell peppers, broccoli and tomatoes. Zinc And Copper (along with vitamin C) stimulate collagen production. Sesame seeds, cashews and mushrooms are sources of both; ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

Don´T forgeT lifesTYle facTors!

cashews, spinach, asparagus, pumpkin, chickpeas and grass-fed beef are rich in zinc; soybeans and dark leafy vegetables are good sources of copper. Vitamin A contains a plant chemical called Carotenoids which not only help support collagen and elastin levels in the skin, but also support production of hyaluronic acid - our skin´s own natural moisturiser. Astaxanthin is a carotenoid found in plants, algae and seafood and gives the red pigment. It has exceptional antioxidant activity with evidence suggesting it may both prevent UV damage by acting as a natural internal sunscreen and also help to reverse these signs of ageing. Unlike sunscreen it offers protection without blocking UV rays, so vitamin D can still be synthesised. Two other carotenoids supporting the skin are lycopene, found in tomatoes and watermelon and beta-carotene found in carrots, orange peppers and sweet potatoes. Omega 3 This chain of essential fatty acids ensure flexible cell membranes enabling nutrients to enter cells and toxins to freely move out of them. It will also help protect skin cells in the cold weather to come. Fatty fish such as salmon, trout, mackerel, sardines and herring are the best sources. The protein in fish also stimulates cell renewal. Vegan sources are: flax/chia seed, seaweed and avocados.

Whilst skin damage can be a result of unprotected sunbathing and a high sugar diet, lifestyle factors also play a significant role. Exercise: move and get the heart pumping to support skin health. High intensity bursts of exercise will also stimulate growth hormone production, which can be used for stimulating new cells. Sleep: Getting enough “beauty sleep” encourages skin repair. Growth hormone influences tissue growth and repair and is greatest at night during deep core sleep. Skin brushing supports the lymphatic system to rid the body of waste and supports circulation. 

CHRISTINE KJELDBJERG

Christine has a BSc in nutrition therapy, an MSc in personalised nutrition and is a Pilates & Xtend Barre instructor. Originally from Berkshire in the UK, Christine has been living in the riviera for 12 years. She has a busy ﬁtness and health coaching business in Grasse and runs various educational workshops. www.ck-health.com

riviera

CLEANING YOUR BEAUTY ROUTINE A guide to alternative beauty choices By JULIA EDGELy Local homeopath Julia edgely is an expert in allnatural beauty products. We’ve asked her to share some of her tips for avoiding our exposure to the hidden chemicals in most store-bought cosmetics.

he landscape of the beauty industry is changing and the new pastures are most definitely green. Soon to be estimated at $16 billion by next year, the ‘green beauty’ industry, as many call it, seems to have exploded onto the cosmetic scene. From my eight years of working with patients improving their health by making “the swap”, green beauty has actually been around for a long time but is only now coming into its own. ‘Clean,’ ‘green,’ ‘safe,’ ‘non-toxic’ are all synonyms for the same concept: cosmetic and personal care products that are based on natural, ethical ingredients with limited chemical additives that have been linked to health issues. Pathologies such as infertility, pre-mature puberty, eczema, allergies and migraines have all been linked to ingredients we put on our skin. This has led to more frequent recommendations from governments and health agencies to limit exposure to certain cosmetic ingredients.

By law, all products are required to display the composition on the packaging – aside from fragrance or parfum, but don’t get me started on cosmetic politics! – so we really can see exactly what we put on our skin every day. I have put together an extensive list of potentially harmful additives to avoid, including humectants, preservatives and surfactants that is easy to memorize and identifiable on an ingredients list. You can find this list on juliaedgely.com/ingredients. Here on the Côte d’Azur we are lucky to have access to fantastic Alternative Beauty Choices (ABC). Here is a guide to finding ABCs on the Cote D’Azur: local Bio stores An advantage of living in France is the availability of good health stores with great foods, natural household items and now personal care products as well. But careful attention is still needed as some items in bio stores contain the ingredients on my avoid list. This is an example of how a label can be misleading. Just because an item notes organic on the packaging, it does not necessarily mean it is 100% organic. Always read the composition on the packaging. Bazar Bio Want to completely revamp your beauty routine? Check out the Bazar Bio, an online store with a concept office in Nice centre (4, Place Wilson). On site you can sample fantastic brands of strictly natural skincare, body care, hair care and make-up. Helena and her staff are wonderfully informed to help you choose what items are best for you. They speak English so it will be easy to get the help you need. Tell them Julia sent you!

WELLNESS

staying ‘eco friendly’ When looking into new natural products, it quickly becomes apparent that many brands offering are foreign and developed overseas. Make sure to not only think of your skin, but also the planet by keeping a mind-set of the carbon footprint. Absolution, which is based in Paris, is an amazing French brand that ticks all the boxes: recycled packaging, effective products with amazing ingredients – an ideal ABC brand, in my opinion. DiY and kitchen cosmetics Some people prefer to go right back to basics only putting on our skin what we find in our kitchen. In fact, our kitchen has so much to offer our skin. My facial cleansing routine falls into this category. Just remember – when trying new products, always perform a patch test 24 hours before use, to test for any allergic reaction. In Southern France, pure olive oil is abundant. This highly emollient olive nectar is perfect as a facial cleanser, makeup remover and hair mask. The omega 6 fatty acids found in olive oil deeply nourish and protect your skin. Rose has long been cherished for its soothing and beautifying properties and it is rooted deep is the traditions of Grasse. A bottle of rose water works amazingly well as a dry skin toner, a scalp refresher in between washes and as a perfume. Add a dash of apple cider vinegar to your bottle to add a fermented element, which has been shown to increase its effectiveness. Honey not only tastes amazing, it is full of nutrients and antibacterial properties. It is perfect as a hydrating face mask, a facial wash especially for acne sufferers, as a softening hair mask and in a foot soak to help cracked heels. I leave you with my hugely popular DIY Chocolate Face Mask. This easy recipe effectively increases circulation to your face, improves hydration, elasticity and smells divine. Make it this evening and pamper yourself knowing what you are enjoying is not only better for your skin but also your health and the planet. 

CACAO FACEMASK 1 teaspoon Chickpea ﬂour 1 teaspoon raw Cacao powder (not cocoa powder) 1 tablespoon rose water (or enough to make a sticky paste) Spread on clean skin and leave to work for 3040 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. You skin may seem extremely red for up to 1 hour after removing the mask. This is normal response to the increased circulation.

www.juliaedgely.com

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

riviera

WELLNESS

THE SMILING WARD By PETRA HALL

A visit to the hospice centre at Archet Hospital in Nice Without the non-profit association Pallia aide this institution would probably not exist in Nice. and without the selfless efforts of four admirable women and 40 equally admirable employees, this association, founded in 2006, would probably not exist either. a look behind the scenes of a hospital ward that everyone hopes never to have to enter.

Relieving suffering with heart and soul: the responsible doctor Flora Tremellat (front left), the president of Pallia Aide and psychologist Audrey Roman; governess Françoise Cathagne (back left) and project manager Nathalie Vilanova. © D.R.

dmittedly, I wasn't quite at ease with the idea of visiting the palliative department in the Archet hospital in Nice. I imagined horrible pictures of suffering patients in a gloomy ambience. Quite anxiously I walked down the hallway: flooded with light, pastel-coloured, pleasantly decorated, no cries of pain. Twelve single rooms are available to people who are helped to die with dignity or to make their lives bearable for as long as possible. The palliative ward is therefore not necessarily the last stop. Four smiling and obviously competent women welcome me: the president of Pallia Aide and psychologist Audrey Roman, the head physician Flora Tremellat, the Gouvernante Françoise Cathagne and project manager Nathalie Vilanova. The atmosphere is ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

cheerful; there is a lot of laughter. Would it otherwise be possible to endure so much daily suffering? In 2006 there was only one palliative medicine* department with six beds in Nice, specialising in the terminally ill. Today, thanks to Pallia Aide, there are twelve in Archet Hospital (six in Antibes, four in Monaco). Shockingly few, considering the long waiting lists! Without this association, the committed group would not have been entitled to financial support. And this is desperately needed. After the death of a loved one, many families ask for donations for Pallia Aide, in lieu of flowers. Without donations the all-important service for the suffering and their relatives - care that is not possible in normal hospital wards - would be impossible. The mission of the committed women is to ease all aspects of the terminal illness in a warm, family environment. As well as possible, the patients shall at least temporarily push their pains and worries into the background, a beautifully landscaped garden, cultural and gastronomic variety and a therapeutic relaxation bathtub contribute to this. The garden is adorned with an artistic mosaic on which a patient had worked for many months. Even when he was released home, he kept coming back. The staff is convinced: "This has prolonged his life". Responsible for a varied programme and the only one of her kind in France is a governess whose position was created in 2012. Every year she is financed by a generous donor whose father was cared for here until his death. Françoise Cathagne has been working in this position for seven years. She does not wear a white doctor's coat and cares for patients and relatives with enormous personal commitment: "My job is to shed some light on people's everyday lives; I am the ward's mom," says the trained medical secretary. She comes up with a lot of ideas to alleviate the suffering of her subjects: Every Wednesday there is a "café gour-

The garden of the palliative station was designed by a landscape gardener. © D.R.

mand", and on Fridays everyone has an aperitif with homemade pastries "so that it smells like home". Françoise organises small parties, celebrates Christmas and New Year's Eve with them and their families, and goes shopping with patients wherever possible. She brings musicians and artists into the house and has even celebrated two weddings here. And she takes the patients in her arms, without fear of contact, to give comfort. Fixed visiting hours are unheard of here, even small children are allowed to come. Françoise does not hide the fact that her work is psychologically difficult, but speaks of vocation. Nevertheless, she will retire next year. A great loss for the department. Flora adds: "When I first visited this place, I was fascinated: "Here you take a lot of time for the patient, listen to him, respect his personality. And I knew right away: "That's why I wanted to become a doctor." The team also passes on their warmth of heart, their knowledge and their commitment to nurses in other wards, hospitals and old people's homes. They are also used to support the bereaved. The palliative department (hospice) in the Archet has about 330 patients per year, each of them staying on average for about 13 days. Some do not want to return to the normal hospital or home. It is not only elderly people who seek help here. The minimum age is 18 years and the facility is open to anyone in the French health system, regardless of nationality or religion.  *According to the World Health Organization, palliative medicine is "the active, holistic treatment of patients with a very advanced disease and a limited life expectancy at a time when the disease no longer responds to curative treatment and the control of pain, other complaints, psychological, social and spiritual problems has the highest priority".

SUPPORT THE PALLIATIVE DEPARTMENT Donations are urgently requested: With 10 euro per year you can become a member of Palliaaide. Donations can be deducted up to 66 percent of the tax. www.pallia-aide.org -orpallia-aide-projets@orange.fr

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Luxury life on the water: in a floating penthouse © RevHouse

Floating penthouse A new concept for the Côte d'Azur Who doesn't dream of living, working and celebrating with a front row view? a ﬂoating penthouse provides a marina feeling, closeness to nature and maximum freedom all at the same time. in September, this innovative living concept reached the Côte d'azur in a spectacular way.

he first penthouse boat of the German company Rev House arrived spectacularly in Nice, delivered by giga crane from a container ship. The luxury floating abode can be used as a full-time or holiday home, as an office, for customer events, or even as a restaurant. The "Rev House Sea II" measures 20 meters in length, with 125 square meters of living space and an additional 156 square meters of terrace. It is approved for a maximum of 100 people (at anchor), twelve of whom can be accommodated into six bedrooms. Each floating penthouse made by Rev House is fully customised and equipped before leaving the shipyard. From the number of bedrooms, to the interior design, to whether or not to have a Jacuzzi, or sauna, the customer decides the details. Thanks to innovative German engineering, the penthouse can be selfsufficient for several weeks at a time with its large fresh water and waste water tanks and its own bio-treatment plant. Philippe Urbin, who markets the new penthouses on the Côte d'Azur, is looking forward to the new challenge in addition to his international consulting activities. The Frenchman benefits from the fact that he speaks English as well as fluent German after years of working in the neighbouring country. He also has his wife Martina on board as a business partner who specialises in rental properties and concierge services and manages the pent-

house rental. What are people looking for who opt for a floating abode? According to Lars Voigt, cofounder and current managing director of Rev House since 2011, it is a question of mentality: his customers long for being close to nature and enjoy the freedom of being able to anchor wherever they wish to be. Tired of a particular location? If you want to go further away: Hop on a container ship with the penthouse and head for Thailand or the Caribbean for the next two years. "Such a floating luxury apartment is mobile water property and investment in one, especially in times of scarce and expensive living space," explains Urbin and will use the new rectangular boat as a showroom as well as an event space and holiday location.

a feat of engineering The "Rev House Sea II" is the first penthouse and a boat of the latest generation. Sophisticated technology, modern environmental standards and the highest functionality of the floating houses made in Germany are the result of many years of continuous tinkering. "Such a construction, which can hold up to 100 people on the top of the terrace and has to be stable enough is more complex than you might think," says Urbin. Speed records cannot be broken with the angular ship - the steering wheel is located at the front of the surrounding terrace. At a leisurely 12 knots it sails from one port to the

next. On the other hand, its price is only a fraction of that of a comparable yacht and scores accordingly with much lower fuel consumption. The highlight when buying a floating penthouse is - despite all the originality of the residential property - that it can be classified as a sports boat: "Neither the housing taxe d'habitation nor the property taxe foncière are due, nor are notary fees or inheritance taxes," Urbin explains. Anyone who buys a houseboat on behalf of their company also saves VAT, which is around 20 percent of the gross purchase price. Depending on size and equipment, a Rev House penthouse is available from 497,000 euros (standard model) or 870,000 euros (20metre version). "A comparable house or apartment in the centre of Saint-Raphaël or Cannes costs several times as much," emphasises Philippe Urbin. The delivery time for a tailor-made penthouse boat is about ten to twelve months. The TV station TF1 also finds the "Rev-House" living concept so exciting that they filmed it for the popular series "Les plus belles vacances" during the Cannes Yachting Festival. Afterwards, the cube-shaped ship will set its own course for the festival city. The penthouse will spend the winter in Cannes, taking part in the ILTM tourism fair at the beginning of December and otherwise be available at any time for events or exclusive holidays. 

Philippe and Martina Urbin market the penthouse at the Côte d'Azur © D.R.

CONTACT www.revhouse-sea.com www.revhouse-sea.com/partner Sale: Bitlog Conseil, Tel. +33 (0)6 42 61 10 15 rental: riviera Home Life, Tel. +33 (0)6 37 48 64 03 (German/english/French speaking)

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Bugatti turns 110 The French brand celebrates with a roadtrip By NICOLE RUSKELL

The arrival in Place du Casino © Bugatti

onaco is spoiled for choice when it comes to exotic and ‘hyper’ cars, as they are seen around every corner on the daily. However, on 2 September the principality had never experienced such a sight as when 23 Bugattis arrived in Place du Casino at 5:30 pm. To celebrate its 110th anniversary, Bugatti invited owners around the world to partake in a ‘Grand Tour’ departing from Milan, the birthplace of Ettore Bugatti and driving all the way to their headquarters at Château St Jean in Molsheim, Alsace. According to Stephan Winkelmann, the president of Bugatti (who pulled up in the #1 anniversary edition Chiron), it is the first time so many contemporary Bugattis have been in one place at the same time. The route covers a lot of territory but was broken up with stops in some of the loveliest places along the route. Monte Carlo was the first stop, with an overnight at the Hôtel de Paris. Their arrival was well orchestrated and caused quite a stir with tourists who were dazzeled by the rare sight. It was a record-breaking day for Bugatti, not merely for the crowd of multi-million euro cars, but also for the release of their news on breaking the 300 mph record for street production cars. Bugatti test driver, Andy Wallace was alone on the Ehra-Lessien test track in Germany when he took a Bugatti Chiron to 304.773 mph (490.484 km/h), making the Bugatti the fastest car on the market. Riviera Insider sat down with Stephan Win-

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kelmann inside the Hotel de Paris to discuss the past, the future and the record. He acknowledged the bragging rights of being the fastest, but he was clear that Bugatti is now focused on new projects. When asked about whether Bugatti will try to break the 500 km/h mark, he smiled but reiterated that Bugatti prefers to invest in new models and new technology. Perhaps an electric Bugatti? Not likely in the near future, but Mr Winkelmann does admit that is the future of vehicles. One thing is for sure, no one will be a challenge to their W16 1500 Hp engine for a while to come. For now, Bugatti is focusing on brand recognition, particularly emphasising a French

identity of a car often mistaken for another Italian supercar. What is not well-known outside car enthusiasts is that Bugatti has always been based in Molsheim (aside from a brief take-over by Lamborghini in the 1990s). Although born in Milan, Ettore Bugatti, the son of a renowned Art Deco designer, grew up in Molsheim, opening the first factory in 1909 to produce cars and airplane engines. Always being the fastest, Bugatti grew to fame with their Type 35 race car, winning 2,000 races in ten years, including the 24 hours at Le Mans and the Targa Florio. In fact, the winning car of the very first Monaco Grand Prix in 1929 was a T35B Bugatti. Clearly there is no doubt to Bugatti’s absolute dominance on being the fastest. However, Mr Winkelmann emphasises that it is the high level of comfort and luxury that makes Bugatti special. After taking the reins at company, he was constantly asked where in Italy the factory was. It was immediately clear to him that his first order of business was to focus the message of the brand as a French company. He told RI: “The capability of the French to have a luxury that is always over the top is unique and we have the opportunity to position our brand as the only luxury car manufacturer that is French.” This was the motivation behind the anniversary edition Chiron. To emphasise its French identity, the 110 ans model is made with the two shades of French blue for their signature two-tone exterior, repeated in the finely-stitched leather seats bearing the ‘110 ans’ emblem, and the rear wing that pops out when the driver reaches serious speed features the ‘trois couleurs’ of the French flag. “I hope that in four to five years this will be settled, but for now, this is the right message.” Bugatti has several events planned for the remainder of the year, especially at their Château St Jean HQ in Molsheim. But we’ll keep eye out for some of these new designs Mr Winkelmann hinted at. 

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naco Yacht Show, featured modern and Avant-guard design inspired by the colours and sensations of the sea. These new fabrics and shapes work perfectly with the collection philosophy and is a fabulous new addition to the already vast Zanaboni catalogue.

Why is monaco an important place to showcase zanaboni?

Zanaboni interiors Décor ﬁt for a king

talian design and craftsmanship have been famous throughout the world for almost as long as history has been recorded. From Roman statues to renaissance architecture, to the luxurious fabrics of fashion houses to the elegant curves of exotic sports cars, Italian design is incomparable. Zanaboni is no exception. Specialising in beautiful, opulent furnishings since the 1960s, this Italian furniture company decorates palaces, government buildings and grand hotels. But they also create incredible contemporary furniture, bringing a sense of decadence to sleek, modern pieces. Riviera Insider spoke with the legendary Italian company on the heels of their exhibit that the Monaco Yacht Show.

What does zanaboni specialise in? Zanaboni was born in 1967 as a classic Italian furniture manufacturer. Over the years, we’ve increased our collection significantly with many different styles, accessories and interior design. Today we have more than 5,000 pages in 18 catalogues, ranging from classic style including traditional and neoclassic, to contemporary and modern style. Zanaboni is present in 60 countries with showrooms, residential projects, hotels and institutional buildings. We also decorate many embassies, including the Italian embassy in Monaco. We don’t just sell furniture, we also offer complete project services, thanks to our

internal staff of architects and interior designers. We assist customers with bespoke models to fit their home or yacht and provide interior decoration suggestions for a ‘turnkey service’.

What can we look forward to with this season’s collection? the philosophy of our new indoor/outdoor collection is the art of living in the home and in nature. The modern concept of ‘home’ has undergone a complete evolution, dictated by new lifestyles and thus, the latest must-have is flexibility. Zanaboni Edizioni’s new models are customizable, innovative and always original. Comfortable seating, new accessories in different sizes and materials to play with allows our clients to express themselves creating custom spaces. The home opens up to the outdoors, establishing a dialogue between the indoors and the outdoors. Comfortable and engaging pieces mix metals and natural elements, such as rattan and wicker, whose fine braids and weaves create furniture of great expressive impact. It is re-interpreting classic and modern with an innovative approach, perfect for exclusive penthouses, luxury villas, yachts and majestic hotels. The Zanaboni collection shown at the ‘Art and Design for Yacht interiors: The new contemporary luxury’ exhibit during the Mo-

Zanaboni is forever linked to Monte-Carlo, a special place for the founder Vittorio Zanaboni, who has taken inspiration for the design of many models from the principality. The elegance that fills the air in this unique place, the colours of the sea and the love for art mirror the values of Zanaboni. And the beautiful contrast of the classic palaces and modern buildings is quite striking. We have many clients and connections in Monaco. Aside from working with the Italian Embassy, we work the National Monegasque Committee AIAP, who both organised the exceptional Art and Design for yacht interiors exhibition.

is there a particular line that stands out from the rest? Our new seating collection gives great impact with customizable components and different elements in various materials, sizes and shapes. the Nouvelle Vague sofa, an expanding sectional sofa is characterized as young and current, reminiscent of a metropolitan skyline with graduated heights of the body. Iconic pieces are also the new indoor-outdoor line, Green Channel, both complex and minimal at the same time. The body has a natural rattan structure enhanced and with interwoven wicker in contrasting colours. To enliven the atmosphere, Zanaboni plays with mixing accessories in different dimensions, shapes and materials. It is a special new collection to be discovered. 

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Photo: Paul Oataway

LIFe LeSSONS

Certified Life Coach and Motivational Speaker Shalini aroraa Kochhar lives in Monaco but originates from Delhi, india. She is the founder of Women on Top - a global networking forum for women and an ambassador for Bespoke Woman, Better World Forum Monaco and Circle of Beautiful People among others. Her book “Women on Top of their Game” is an inspirational read about leading female entrepreneurs from all walks of life. She has even been recognised by the United Nations for her exemplary work. Shalini shares her important life lessons:

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Wake up early The first hour of my day determines the rest of my day so I make it meaningful. I accomplish 20 percent more between 5am–8am.

show gratitude I say thank you for all that I have. It is my best medicine for physical, psychological, emotional and mental health.

embrace Yolo You Only Live Once, so make it memorable! I celebrate each day and make sure I live my life my way. l dream it, I wish it, I work for it and I achieve it! I also think that what goes around does come around so I give love and I am loved back.

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4 5 6

stay curious While I am still learning and dreaming, I am growing and evolving. Being stagnant is as good as gone.

choose your friends wisely We are the average of the five people we surround ourselves with! Show me your friends and I will tell you your future. Be with people that fill your cup till your cup runs over.

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Discover the unknown Life is about experiences and experiences come from discovering the unknown. Go travelling. New cultures, new places and new people gives in its midst of nature an enrichement of your personality.

stay positive Positive thoughts make for a positive life. To change things we have to change our thoughts.

find your passions Remember when they asked you in school in every possible form what are your hobbies? As you get older you realise how important it is to have a passion that turns you on. It can be a sport, reading, painting, travelling. Having a passion is like soul therapy!

sense of humour is a forever thing As I got older all my senses of smell, hearing, sight etc. get tired. But my sense of humour is intact and it always keeps my spirits up no matter what the circumstances. After all, in any perspective, you can just laugh it off! Feed your funny bone!

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The Negresco Celebrate the holidays with a staycation! The Negresco is one of the last remaining private hotels and is proudly French. aside from being a National Historic Monument, the hotel has been awarded two prestigious certiﬁcations:

e Negresco offers you wonderful Christmas and New Year celebration with a festive and authentic Christmas and a sparkling New Year's Eve. This icon of the French Riviera prides itself on its unexpected surprises, like celebrating New Year’s Eve with a pyjama party! Their special Christmas Temptation package offers a choice of a Deluxe sea room, a Junior sea suite or a Suite Mer with their fabulous breakfast at La Rotonde included. As an added bonus, upon arrival, you’ll be welcomed with chocolate and champagne. Now that is a way to ring in the New Year! The Christmas Temptation package starts at €277. The holidays are a time for giving and it’s a great opportunity to give to local charities. The Negresco is renewing their pledge to the Lenval Foundation this year. For each reservation booked, the hotel will match a customer’s €10 donation with €10 themselves.

The festivities continue in the Negresco restaurants where seasonal menus are prepared by Executive Chef Virginie Basselot. Whether you enjoy a meal at the beautifully redone La Rotonde or splurge for a fancy dinner at the two Michelin star Chantecler, you will experience her commitment to authenticity and French heritage. For a truly unforgettable New Year’s Day, celebrate with Negresco’s traditional Salle Royal Brunch, the ultimate expression of their culinary excellence, prepared by Chef Basselot. La Rotonde menu starts from de 85/95€ Le Chantecler menu starts from 180/350€ New Year’s Day Brunch menu starts from 105€ Discover the menus at www.lenegresco.com To book your table, ring us at: +33 (0)4 93 16 64 00.

a pioneer in the field of socially responsible hospitality, the Negresco is the first 5-star hotel on the French riviera to receive the certification ecolabel. issued by aFNOr, ecolabel is the most demanding environmental certification in the european market, which luxury hotels still hesitate towards as the measures required are not always compatible with the clients’ demands. With 100 years of experience, the Negresco had no hesitation.

The Negresco has obtained the label of Living Heritage Company. Created 10 years ago, the French State recognises companies for the excellence of their French savoirfaire, or know-how. The Negresco prides itself on providing guests with an authentic experience of the French art of living from the era of Louis Xiii to present day. The entire staff strives to awaken the 5 senses, from the touch of our lush fabrics made by our own tapisserie, to the scent of flowers from our locally produced bath products, to the sight of one of the most complete collections of art in France, and of course, the taste of expertly prepared food from the best local farms. What awakens the auditory sense? You’ll have to come to find out!

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LEWIS LONGMAN

GOURMET

Taqueria Lupita Authentic Mexican in Cannes erhaps no cuisine has been as badly represented or attempted around the world as Mexican cuisine. Eateries like Chiquitos or Taco Bell create food which can only be described as a parody at best, pseudo-Mexican at worst. Other ‘Mexican’ chain restaurants seem satisfied with throwing as much cheese and guacamole on anything vaguely resembling a tortilla, and pass this off as the real deal. Thankfully in Cannes, on an inconspicuous side street, a ‘Taqueria’ has opened its doors and is putting shame to the Taco Bells of the world. This tiny eatery offers just a few seats but their food is bursting with colour and aromas. Taqueria Lupita is showing us all what real Mexican food should be: fresh, vibrant, packed full of flavoursome meats, beans and spices! Between feasting upon tacos and drinking fruit-infused ‘agua fresca,’ I spoke with the owner about what Taqueria Lupita and Mexican cuisine was really all about. After moving to France at the age of 22 for her studies, Maria Guadalupe Vargas Nunez (or Lupita for short) married her husband in Paris in 2010. In 2015 they both moved to the south of France, for she was “missing my sun” as she puts it. Maria explained to me that a Taqueria is typically small and “not just a place which sells tacos, it is a place of simplicity, conviviality and casual exchanges. It’s different from other restaurants, in the sense that people eat standing up or buy food to take away. It’s also the place where I grew up. Since 1993, my parents have owned a Taqueria (of the same name) in Casimiro Castille [near Puerto Vallarta], on the Pacific coast. I wanted to bring the same concept to Cannes, in a place which offers just a few seated places whilst still keeping the original ideas”. She has also kept the family feel to the place, as her mother works behind the counter with her, making fresh corn flour tacos to order.

Originally from sleepy Suﬀolk, Lewis Longman moved to Cannes several years ago in the search of something meaningful to ﬁll the predictable void of post-graduate life. Between the ubiquitous palm trees of the sunsoaked Côte d’azur and the terraces of its numerous restaurants, he thinks he has found that something...

While tacos are perhaps the most well-known thing on the menu, Taqueria Lupita also offers pellizcadas, doraditas and quesadillas, each served with a choice of marinated pork, beef or grilled chicken. But what differentiates them? “The quesadilla is a thin and soft galette, folded in two” Maria explains, “The doradita is, as the name suggests, golden and crunchy. The pellizcada is a lot thicker and softer”. A soft, thick and indulgent galette, enveloping slow-cooked barbacoa style beef (a Mexican speciality), the pellizcada is, as Maria explains, a kind of burger - and she was not wrong. “Whether in Mexico or here in France, we use our knowledge to make our own marinades and sauces.” The pellizcada is a testament to this with soft and tender beef soaked in flavour. I’ve eaten at Taqueria Lupita several times, and each visit is a pleasure, a voyage of latin discovery, fiery and exciting flavours waltzing across a taco dancefloor. Or as Maria puts it, “the colours are vibrant, the aromas strong and the flavours distinct. Tradition, sharing and conviviality are extremely important values to us. We find all of this, and much more, in our kitchen.” So the next time you pass a generic chain restaurant, promising tacos, burritos, nachos, tortillas, enchiladas, or some other attempt at creating something vaguely akin to real Mexican cuisine, resist - and take yourself down to Taqueria Lupita, a hidden gem quietly cooking up a storm. 

A sweet escape

best chefs is the highlight of the show. Expect to see our planet and lots of nature made of chocolate. 

The Salon de Sucre et Chocolat

f you love chocolate; if you love desserts, if you love the traditional French art of patisserie, then don’t miss the Salon de Sucre et Chocolat at the Espace du Fort Carré in Antibes, from 2 -3 November. This salon brings together the absolute best pastry chefs to show off their skills and give the public a chance to meet and even taste what these talented artisans create with some sugar and ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

chocolate. Organised by the association of chocolatiers and pastry chefs of the Alpes Maritimes, pastry chefs who still work in the traditional creation of patisserie are hand-picked for the event. This year’s theme, ‘Planète mon amour’ is ‘a gourmet vision to save and protect nature.’ Aside from a wide variety of goodies to be tasted and purchased, a sculpture contest between the

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GOURMET

Majestic mixologist

animals.” Yes, he is filled with emozioni and a love for what he does like only an Italian can be. His bees certainly love him back because with only a few wooden hive boxes, these extremely busy workers make 65 kilos of By NICOLE RUSKELL honey a year! That’s enough for all his experimental infusions and to jar it for guests. his favourite aromatic herbs like geranium, Our tour winds up back in the gorgeous, rosemary and verbena. decadent Bar Fouquet, where I finally get to “Oh, smell this one it is so unusual,” he says see Emmanuele in his element. The long bar as he hands me a thick, almost furry leaf is lined with delicate crystal containers filled that smells both of lemongrass and with various dried flowers and plants, and a geranium. Fuelled with an unseen passion massive tray of bottles of unmarked fluids for the unique scent of each plant, he for his inventive cocktails. seems un-phased by the blazing July sun, His favourite creations behind the bar are but we thankfully move back actually modified classics, inside to tour his botanic atelier. which he loves to recommend In a dizzying mélange of English, to guests who stick to their “OH, SMELL THIS French and Italian he excitedly regular drink. Highlights include ONE IT IS SO pulls out beakers and vials of the Hibiscus Old Fashioned, homemade bitters and plant which swaps Angostura bitters UNUSUAL,” HE essences. “You must taste this!” for his Morello cherry and SAYS AS HE he says like a lightbulb just went fennel flower bitters and soda HANDS ME A off in his head. He pulls a beaker water with hibiscus-infused THICk, FURRY of dark brown liquid from a water; the Majestic Manhattan LEAF THAT small fridge: “Dried asparagus made with an aged Cognac, bitters - but it tastes slightly of Italian white vermouth, SMELLS OF BOTH liquorice.” He’s right-- although homemade orange bitters and LEMONGRASS there is a slight scent of maple syrup; or a special during AND GERANIUM.” asparagus, I would never have the Cannes Film Festival, the guessed it, the taste is a very Cosmo Festival which swaps delicate liquorice flavour. What triple sec with Pierre Ferrand does he make with this Dry Orange Curaçao, hibiscus mystifying liquid? “Caipirinha d’asparigi,” he water and a crystallised violet from replies in Italian. “Buonissima!” Tourrettes-sur-Loup. As a funny anecdote, he whistles while he His curiosity and imagination seem works—an added effect that boisterously limitless and there is no doubt that a visit erupts from his lips when he talks about to his bar will dazzle your tastebuds with plants. His excitement is infectious and flavours you’ve never experienced before. rather delightful. He is a true mixologist!  “Wait, wait, you MUST try this,” he implores as he reaches for another beaker. “This is made from Ericlisio (immortelle) flowers.” He points up above our heads to several glass jars of dried flowers and herbs while explaining his process of decocting the treasured flower. Looking up, the metre of space to the ceiling is lined with meticulously picked and dried herbs. This small, immaculate (almost sterile) room off the hotel’s kitchen is a cross between a scientist's laboratory and an oldfashioned drogheria. This, in addition to the shelves of beakers and apothecary bottles filled with various infusions, decoctions, balsamic reductions and infused honey, I begin to wonder if Emanuele is a botanist first, and a barman second - this idea was quickly shattered once we returned to the bar. But first, we make a trip to the roof to see his beehives. In the lift he confesses: “I am filled with emozioni for this. Once you see how the hives are organised inside the © D.R. boxes, you cannot but be in love with these

The most unique barman of the Côte d’Azur Talented mixologists are common in large englishspeaking cities, but most French bars haven’t yet caught on to the custom bar menu. However, with emmanuele Balestra, the Bar Galerie Fouquet at the Majestic Hotel in Cannes is an exception. riviera insider met with this botanical genius and tried to keep up on a whirlwind tour around the hotel.

Emmanuele Balestra © D.R.

ur journey begins in the most unexpected way--leaving the extravagant bar, crossing the sunbaked terrace and walking up a little path to his garden where he proudly show off his bug habitat. We start here because this is where it all begins; his famous botanic infused cocktails would not exist without bugs. It’s not just the pollinators that are important for his organic herb garden: spiders and even beetles are the bugs that feast on the bugs that feast on his precious plants. From this little house of twigs and sticks, my olfactory tour begins with clippings of

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GOURMET

California Bliss The French Fro-Yo comes comes to Nice By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

alifornia Bliss is more than a regular frozen yogurt company – it is bringing the feeling of the West Coast to France with the fresh taste of frozen yoghurt, numerous toppings and a fun décor of palm trees and surfboards while also helping girls in underdeveloped countries access a good education. Cannoise Danielle Ahajot and American, kylie Schuyler, the two co-founders of the French ‘froyo’ built a company that reflects who they are. Riviera Insider speaks with Danielle about this blend between two countries’ traditions. She said: “California Bliss frozen yoghurt combines French ‘savoir-faire’ and high-quality products with the Californian dream.” Their first shop opened in Aix-en-Provence in 2014. This was followed by numerous pop-up stores on the French Riviera, including SaintTropez, Sainte-Maxime, Cannes, Biscarosse and now Nice, where the newest pop-up store will be open in the Nice train station until December 2019. Danielle and kylie did not stop at the Riviera – they opened their second permanent shop in Paris in 2018. But according to Danielle, who grew up in Cannes, the heart and soul of California Bliss is on the French Riviera. She moved to California when she was 22, where she met kylie and thought “why not bring the famous Californian frozen yoghurt to France?” This is when it all started. Flash forward twenty years and this ex-trader and her associate created an inclusive and thoughtful brand. The concept is simple: take the Californian culture of frozen yogurt, combine it with the French expertise in cuisine, a little help from nutritionist Virginie Rodriguez and you get a traditional fat-free frozen yogurt

Chef ’s World Summit The international congress of chefs

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with all the benefits of probiotics, magnesium and protein. In the summer, to meet increasing demand, the company expands its reach to the French Riviera with pop-up stores, including the Nice train station on July 1st. But beyond the pop-ups, the French frozen yogurt has also made its way onto some legendary restaurant’s dessert menus. It began in 2015 with The Intercontinental Carlton hotel in Cannes. The following year they made it onto the menu of The Majestic in Cannes. Today, California Bliss can also be found on the menu of the famous Les 2 Magots SaintGermain-des-Près, in Paris. But Danielle revealed that she has even bigger plans for the near future. “California Bliss is defined by high-quality products easily accessible to all. Our goal is to move people. We’re strongly working towards expanding our presence and carrying on this adventure across France. While keeping more tangible shops on the French Riviera, in Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Tropez and even Monaco, we also want to develop partnerships with high-quality restaurants in Normandie, for instance, and we’re thinking about other facilities in Europe and around the world.” California Bliss is not only defined by its frozen

yogurts but the involvement in a charity for providing education for girls. Established in 2011 by kylie Schuyler, the Global G.L.O.W. (Girls leading our world) charity provides education for girls in underdeveloped countries such as Afghanistan, Laos and Uganda. According to Danielle, young girls’ education is more important than ever and she is happy to work with a company who is so dedicated to this cause. 

rom 25 – 27 November, over 150 chefs from almost 60 countries will descend on Monaco along with thousands of restaurant professionals for one of the most important shows in fine dining. The summit is open to guests from all areas of the culinary world, whether you make food, sell food, serve food or just enjoy food!

Last year’s summit sponsor was Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur in Menton, who later went on to earn his third Michelin star and then became the #1 restaurant in the world. Will this year’s sponsor have a similar fate after the summit? We will have to wait and see…

Danielle Ahajot ©D.R.

*Riviera Insider is offering free passes for our readers (see opposite page for the code).  www.chefsworldsummit.com

riviera

La Table du Royal Royal Riviera’s Sublime cuisine By NICOLE RUSKELL

GOURMET

the experience as “a real opportunity to discover new cuisines and flavours.” Only in his early 30’s, Chef Cadei began his career under the famous three-star chef Eric Fréchon and is described as the perfect combination of youth, freshness, and mastery of traditional French gastronomy. This creates a modern cuisine that respects the authenticity of seasonal local products. He uses all his culinary arts to deliver a sublime Mediterranean menu at the gastronomic Table du Royal and brings his experience as a world traveller to the international menu of the Jasmin Grill & Lounge. The restaurant is open every evening from 7 to 10 pm. Reservations can be made at +33 (0)4 93 76 31 00. 

n the world of fine hotel chefs, it is common to have an impressive list of previous kitchens, working as a souschef in top restaurants in Paris and perhaps a few abroad. But Anthony Cadei, Executive Chef of Royal Riviera in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat has a unique addition to his repertoire: the Four Seasons Bora Bora. He describes

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BUSINESS & FINANCE

Nice-Beijing Direct The French Riviera opens up to China By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

The innaugural flight from Beijing received a water salute upon arrival. © Alexa Bouhelier-Ruelle

On 2 august, Nice airport welcomed the first commercial flight direct from Beijing, China. The connection has been in the works for several years, but now Nice will be connected to the Chinese capital with three flights per week. air China will be providing the flights on an airbus a330-200, offering 227 seats, among which 28 are business class.

This new route is expected to give a major boost to our local economy, with an influx of new tourists coming directly from China. The whole region has been involved in an exceptional plan to connect the French Riviera, via Nice airport, to China and there are big plans for this new market. Several air companies applied at the beginning of the year to open routes between the Côte d’Azur and China, such as Légende à remplacer © D.R. Hainan Airlines, who applied for four flights ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

a week from Nice to Beijing, which will begin in October. Shanghai Airlines also applied with four flights a week connecting Nice to Shanghai from January 2020. But it was Air China who scored the first route with direct flights from Nice to Beijing three times a week from the beginning of August 2019. Perhaps it was the recent visit of President Xi Jinping to the French Riviera that sped up the deal between Air China and Nice Airport. This new partnership with Air

China comes as a real historical event for the region, for the future exchanges and the evolution of the “Destination Côte d’Azur” brand. The maiden flight departed Beijing to arrive at Nice airport at 8:00 am on 02 August. Riviera Insider was there to welcome the flight and attended the arrival ceremony and press conference. The airplane was given a water salute and a delegation was present with a warm welcome to the sunny French Riviera. In attendance was Nice’s Mayor Christian Estrosi, who is also the President and deputy of the Alpes-Maritimes region and President of the Nice Côte d’Azur Métropole; Bernard Gonzalez, Prefect of Alpes-Maritimes; Tan Huanmin, Vice President of Air China; Lu Huiying, General counsel for China in Marseille; Isabelle Baumelle, Director of BU Operations and Côte d’Azur Airports Development; Ye Liu, Actor, Côte d’Azur tourism ambassador in China and Honorary citizen of Nice; and Mr Liu’s Niçoise wife, Anais Martane. Isabelle Baumelle opened the press conference by thanking all the members who worked for several years on this collaboration for their “teamwork and dedication.” She highlighted that this new connection of Beijing to Nice was “the missing link to the bigger structure that is Nice Côte d’Azur airport. This is not the end of the line but the beginning of an exciting journey,” she stated. Ms Baumelle handed over the microphone to Tan Huanmin, Vice-President of Air China. He declared that “this year proved to be a milestone for the friendship between France and China. As it marks the 55th Anniversary of both countries’ diplomatic cooperation and the 45th Anniversary of the first flight connecting France to China via Paris.” Mr Huanmin even compared this new flight as a “New Silk Road bringing new growth perspectives both to the French Riviera tourism and China.”

Nice Mayor Christian Estrosi cuts the ceremonial cord to the direct connection with China. © ABR

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Christian Estrosi welcomes Tan Huanmin, Air China Vice President during the Air China’s inaugural flight from Beijing to Nice. © ABR

a boost to the economy This Franco-Chinese partnership will be supported by different pillars. The first pillar of this collaboration is to release a new mobile application called WeChat Côte d’Azur France Experience. This app will allow tourists to browse all activities and experiences available on the French Riviera, as well as book those activities with a new Yuanfriendly transactions system. Since summer 2019, this app allows tourists to look through what the French Riviera has to offer culturally and also facilitate online payments to book activities. At the end of November, the region will start to solicit Air China’s partners in Beijing as well as being present in the professional salon of tourism between France and China (TFC), where the French Riviera will be represented as well as twenty other regional partners and workshops. Overall, this shows to be a huge success for the French Riviera, which was part of a plan designed at the beginning of the 1990’s. The impact of this new connection with Asia is far from meaningless. Mayor Estrosi highlighted the importance of common exchanges between China and France, not only

in tourism but in all areas. “The French Riviera proved to be trustworthy as a new home - or holiday destination - for many Chinese people, as well as Chinese companies.” Hence, the technology mogul Huawei already implemented an R&D centre in Sophia Antipolis and the company has already partnered with Monaco Telecom on the Principality’s 5G platform. Estrosi is hopeful the company will carry on the discussion to implement 5G in Nice. The Chinese company Galaxy Entertainment Group, from Macao, bought a 5% share of the Société des Bains de Mer’s capital. This partnership opens up casino ventures not only in Monaco and Macao, but also in Japan. In fact, the Nice-Côte-d’Azur Chamber of Commerce identified more than 16 companies with Chinese capital in the Alpes-Maritimes, employing 350 people. These are part of more than 92 Asian companies in the region with 2000 employees overall. Finally, the Nice-Beijing flight will boost the number of Chinese tourists in the Côte d’Azur, which recorded more than 100,000 stays in 2018. This number is likely to double by 2025 and introduce China to the Top 10 foreign markets on the French Riviera. Moreover, local residents are also predicted to enjoy this new connection from Nice. Accor-

BUSINESS & FINANCE

ding to a poll made by Air China at the end of 2018, more than 55% of the French population would like to visit China before 2030.

a rich history and culture The historical richness of China fascinates billions of people around the world. According to the above mentioned poll, 84% of locals mentioned the Great Wall, 72% the Forbidden City and 63% the Terracotta Armies of the Qin Dynasty as their top interest. Some people have a prejudiced image of China as a vast and densely populated country where gigantic metropolises are developing endlessly. But China harbours awe-inspiring natural treasures that will likely attract the local population. In his speech, Christian Estrosi was careful to emphasize his desire for a mutual relationship, strongly underlining the fact that this partnership with Air China works both ways and that both countries should evolve together in all areas. The new airline connection mirrors both countries’ commitment to welcome French people to discover China as well as welcoming the Chinese population on the French Riviera. In the future, Nice’s mayor’s goal is to increase from three flights a week to one flight per day. 

Christian Estrosi, Bernard Gonzalez, Prefect of Alpes-Maritimes; Isabelle Baumelle, Director of BU Operations and Côte d’Azur Airports Development; and ye Liu, Chinese actor and Honorary citizen of Nice, are happy to welcome the new direct flight from Beijing. © ABR

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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BUSINESS & FINANCE

Let’s Fly By NICOLE RUSKELL

Founders of Let’s Fly, Nathalia Blackmann (l) and Julie Bianchini (r). © D.R.

France’s only women-owned private jet service

I’m hoping that’s true!” They are both driven by a passion for aviation and a love for what they do. Nathalia describes her morning: “each day I wake up, I have absolutely no idea what my day will be like.” A factor that keeps her on her toes and always interested. “People ask me what I do and I tell them that I sell dreams,” Nathalia says with stars in her eyes. Julie, who has her own helicopter licence agrees, saying: “We are passionate about what we do. We love it. And when we get reready for transfers to Saint Barth’s. cognition from our clients, it feels great.” Getting to where they are today was no easy The key to the stability of their business is feat. It has taken a decade of incredibly hard how hard they work, but also how careful work to build their name. The two-woman they are with success. team is a rarity in private aviation - the only “There’s a lot of money in this business and such company in France and only one of three you’ll see a lot of people go up really quickly women-owned aviation companies in Europe. and come down really quickly. We’re not going Nathalia and Julie are very clear that they love up very quickly but we’re maintaining our little what they do, but admit that it is corner of the market.” hard to do it all themselves. Being based at the Cannes Man“Men have it easy,” starts Nathadelieu airport is an important as“WE HAD lia, “they all have secretaries and pect of their ‘corner.’ It is the BOSSES, BUT assistants who do so much of second-largest private airport in WHEN WE DO the busywork. When women France after Le Bourget in Paris have power, they don’t really get and yet small enough to travel SOMETHING, assisted.” quickly. “It’s so easy here, you WE DO IT 200%. She explains how they have can park or pull up with a chaufSO WE THOUGHT: struggled to find help, suggesting feur and get on board in about WHY NOT DO various reasons why women five minutes. Nice takes at least don’t like to assist other women, 25 minutes.” IT FOR but the bottom line is clear during Their typical customers are busiOURSELVES?” our interview: they do everything nessmen who fly back and forth themselves. They answer the to Paris. Private jets are also pophones, respond to emails and pular with people who travel with handle the paperwork. pets because they fear what the airlines will Both women are also mothers; Julie with do to them. grown children and Nathalia with a two-yearBut they also have families and groups of old at home and twins on the way. friends who book for leisure getaways. This “How will you manage when the twins are summer, Greece has been a popular destinaborn?” I ask with disbelief. tion, but usually, it’s a weekend getaway to “It’s mad,” Nathalia replies. “I say that life Ibiza that tops the list. “It’s a dream world,” doesn’t give you anything you can’t handle, so says Nathalia, “but it does exist.” 

‘Selling dreams’ is the business of Let’s Fly private helicopters and jets. This custom ﬂight service is unique in France, the only aviation company run entirely by women. rivera insider met with the owners at their oﬃce in Cannes Mandelieu airport.

athalia Blackmann and Julie Bianchini have been working in aviation for over fifteen years. Describing the aviation industry -particularly private aviation - as ‘a man’s world,’ the two women decided to create their own private jet and helicopter charter service in 2014. Nathalia, a blond Swiss native with an American East Coast accent, tells RI: “We had bosses, but when we do something we do it 200%. So we thought: why not do it for ourselves?” Today, Let’s Fly has built up a fleet of aircraft based at the Cannes Mandelieu airport and a significant network of charter craft and service providers. They can plan a last-minute getaway for business or pleasure, charter a jet of whatever size their customer needs and much more. “What we do is similar to the yacht industry,” explains Nathalia. “We manage aircraft, we charter out and we do a lot of brokering in both sales and day-to-day charters.” Julie, a soft-spoken brunette from France, chimes in that their service is 24/7, which sets off a series of stories from the pair about 2 am phone calls and arranging jets to Moscow at 4 o’clock in the morning. The two women literally work around the clock. In addition to their fleet in Cannes, they now have a permanent presence in the Caribbean, with a helicopter based in Saint Martin, at the ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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Is your ﬁnancial planning in shape for today?

By ROB KAy, SENIOR PARTNER, BLEVINS FRANKS

hen was the last time you gave your finances a health check? If it was a while ago or you cannot remember, you will almost certainly benefit from reviewing your situation. Not only do your circumstances and goals generally evolve over time, but the rules and available options and opportunities can change too. You will benefit most from a holistic review of your financial situation – looking at how your savings, investments, other assets, tax planning, pensions and estate planning are structured and how they can best work together.

protecting your wealth Today’s economic and political climate presents many challenges to capital protection and growth. We have had a prolonged period of low interest rates, while creeping inflation further

erodes the value of capital and income. This is a time of heightened global tax scrutiny, with frequent changes to tax and pensions legislation. And, of course, Brexit has been playing its part in stoking economic and currency uncertainty. At times like this, careful planning plays a particularly important role in securing your financial security over the long term. While some choose a DIY approach, most will benefit from an independent and expert review of their finances. It is difficult to step back and look at your broad financial situation objectively, or fully understand the complex tax implications. For the best results, talk to a financial adviser with cross-border experience. They should take time to thoroughly understand your situation, needs and objectives to establish taxefficient solutions for your family.

BUSINESS & FINANCE

investment planning While all investments – even bank accounts – carry risk, a suitably diversified portfolio can help manage risk within your comfort level. Start by establishing a clear and objective view of your risk tolerance to determine the investment approach that best suits you. Some advisers use psychometric testing, for example, combined with their knowledge of your personal situation and goals. Make sure you only deal with an adviser that has suitable, higher-level professional qualifications. The advisory firm should be authorised by a reputable regulatory body and authorised to give advice in France.

understanding local taxation If you live here, all elements of your financial planning should be set up for France, not for the Uk. Ideally, your adviser should be based in the Riviera area and have first-hand experience of the issues facing British expatriates here and in-depth understanding of cross-border tax planning and wealth management. The sooner you set up a strategic, long-term vision to protect your wealth, the sooner you can relax into a prosperous future in France. keep up to date on the financial issues that may affect you on the Blevins Franks news page at www.blevinsfranks.com

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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BUSINESS & FINANCE

€67,786, is among the highest in the world. The Principality has enjoyed a growth rate of more than 4% on average over the last 5 years and has more than 56,000 jobs in the private sector in a territory of only 2 km². But what is most surprising is the diversity of Monegasque economic activity. Obviously, tourism (2/3 leisure and 1/3 business) and the financial sector are two important sectors in Monaco and represent about 17% of GDP each. But other pillars of the economy give depth and diversity to the country, I am thinking, for example, of real estate and construction, business services, international trade, health, ICT, shipping, yachting, etc. This diversity contributes in particular to ensuring the excellent resilience of the Monegasque economy.

in addition to this favourable economic fabric, what assets does the principality offer to foreign investors?

MONACO STARTUP BOARD Monaco Invest supports new business By MARINA CARVALHO

at the head of Monaco invest for nearly 4 years, Justin Highman promotes Monaco's territory and the Principality's assets to attract foreign investors. He speaks with Marina Carvalho about what Monaco invest oﬀers. hat are the roles and missions of the monaco economic Board and more particularly of your monaco invest department?

The MEB promotes the Principality's economic activity and participates in its development. It has two departments: the Monaco Chamber of Commerce, which supports the development of Monegasque companies locally and internationally, and Monaco Invest, which foocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

cuses on foreign direct investment. Our role consists in prospecting, supporting and facilitating all the steps of an entity that would like to study a location in Monaco. All this in close collaboration with the Princely Government and mainly the Welcome Office.

is it necessary for the principality to promote its assets to foreign capital? Of course! It is an obligation for the Principality to inform first and foremost. Most of the people we meet know and see Monaco as a single tourist destination. Monaco is much more than that. Then, like everyone else, we face competition from other highly competitive jurisdictions. All economic centres are investing and innovating more and more to differentiate themselves, attract foreign investors and retain the best talent. In Monaco, we are no exception to the rule.

can you tell us more about the monegasque economic fabric? Monaco is a real international and very dynamic platform. Its GDP in 2017 was €5.68 billion, which, compared to per capita GDP, or

Of course, we talk a lot about the security of goods, people and data, quality of life, climate, sea, mountains etc. but our great strength is the power of our model, which has been working and sustainable for decades or even centuries. We enjoy unequalled political stability and can boast of being a debt-free state with a reserve fund equivalent to four years of annual financial years, two of which are in cash. A situation that protects us from some possible hardships. Each year, 30% of the budget (estimated at 1.2 billion euros) is devoted to the development of our infrastructures with a permanent concern for excellence. Then, there is a real cosmopolitanism, 140 nationalities are represented out of 38,000 residents. For the business owner who wishes to settle here, it is the assurance of having access to multilingual talents and more opportunities to acquire an international dimension. Finally, the other great asset we have here is Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, 110 direct destinations (in addition to China from this summer) and its 14 million passengers per year. As the second European hub for business aviation, it brings in a large number of potential customers and the fact that the Monegasque State acquired 12.5% of the shares last year could help it to develop new destinations that can generate even more new business opportunities for Monaco.

how does monaco invest work to increase business opportunities? are there any sectors of activity or countries that are more popular for setting up in the principality? Our strategy at Monaco Invest is to cross destinations that we consider relevant with sectors that we believe are appropriate for the Principality. On destinations, for example, countries such as the United kingdom are targeted for obvious reasons, but also Switzerland, Italy, Belgium and Germany. These are close territories with important business

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communities in Monaco that have been successful for a long time. It's always good to have good references. We will continue to carry out regular activities in these areas, including seminars, tailor-made conferences, and business meetings with the support of the Monegasque diplomatic and consular corps and the Directorate of External Relations and Cooperation. On some more targeted operations, we rely on other partners to relay the information that Monaco is a land of entrepreneurs, such as Monaco For Finance for the finance sector, Cluster Yachting for yachting, MonacoTech for digital and innovation, and the Princess Grace Check-up Unit for health. This allows us to set up a structure, a commercial entity, an R&D centre and also representative offices to reach out to Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

are there important events planned for monaco invest in the coming months? In terms of new actions, I am thinking, for example, of Australia, when we were in Sydney and Melbourne a few weeks ago with the Ballets de Monte-Carlo. We were able to see the tremendous welcome we received and the potential for future collaborations. Australia is a country that is seeking to diversify from Asia and China in particular. There may be something to do there, so why not plan some future actions in this area?

BUSINESS & FINANCE

Then there is Dubai Expo 2020 which starts in October 2020 and will last six months during which we will have a magnificent pavilion to carry out beautiful targeted actions. Finally, in the shorter term and it is not yet fully finalized but we hope to be present at the China International Import Exposition in Shanghai next November. These are actions that promise to bring us a little closer to our ambition: to strengthen Monaco as an economic hub in the heart of Europe. 

What are the principality's weak points? The digitisation of the economy is a recent subject for the Principality, and it is true that there are still things to be defined, such as the legislative framework or investment in young innovative companies to raise funds, but the government is working hard on these issues and the arrival of MonacoTech, almost two years ago, gave the first impetus. In addition, with the arrival of Frédéric Genta last year as Inter-ministerial Delegate in charge of the digital transition, the Princely Government launched a digital strategy programme entitled Extended Monaco with initiatives in e-Government, e-ID and e-Health. Moreover, with the world premiere coverage of 5G throughout the country and the future development of the Blockchain, things are changing and moving fast in Monaco. It is the advantage of being a small country, the relays are short and things can really move quickly.

New era at CMB

is the result of long-term reflection. We wanted to offer our customers a powerful and reliable app that would allow them to stay in touch with their private banking advisor at all times" and added: "We have now succeeded in doing so and we are one of the pioneers of the local banking centre". Currently, the app is accessible in 25 countries including Monaco, France, Italy, Greece, the United kingdom and also Russia, Ukraine, Switzerland and Lebanon. Other countries will follow shortly.

The Monegasque bank goes mobile he arrival of Francesco Grosoli as CEO of Compagnie Monégasque de Banque last May marked the beginning of a new era. The CMB Mobile application was launched in July 2019. This gives the Bank a real technological lead, as it is one of the first financial institutions in Monaco to offer an app tailored to the needs of increasingly mobile customers. The aim of this innovation is to provide entrepreneurs and the younger generation in Monaco with round-the-clock access to their financial

data during meetings and travels. The mobile connection between Monaco, one of the best connected countries in the world, and the rest of the world is a decisive step towards the future. The reactions so far have been correspondingly positive. Stephan Sieder, Head of Infrastructure and Change Management at CMB, says: "CMB Mobile

The functionalities of the new CMB Mobile app:  Consultation of cash and custody accounts  Carrying out transfers in euros or other currencies  Communication with your private banker via secure messaging Further information: www.cmb.mc ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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BUSINESS & FINANCE

riviera Business cluB

Business Person of the Year Awards 2019 should have been in business for a minimum of one year. Nominations can be made on the clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website until 31 October. The Chairman of this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s panel of judges is Greg Harris, Managing Director of Cote d'Azur Villas and winner of the RBC Business Person of the Year award in 2013. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s award ceremony will be held on Friday, 29 November at 7 pm at the Radisson Blu in Cannes. There will be a reception, multi-course dinner and the award presentation. Co-Sponsors

of the event include La Compagnie, The Vertech Group, Andyana, Photoxygen, Bandol & Riviera Wine Tours and Riviera Insider. The hosts for the evening will be Sarah Lycett & Mark Dezzani. Last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winners were Antonio Barona, founder of The Vertech Group, who was awarded RBC Business Person of the Year and Niamh Cogan, founder of Nunii Laboratoire, who was awarded RBC Start-Up of Year. Good luck to this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nominees! ď ¸ www.riverabusinessclub.com

2018 winners, Niamh Cogan (l) and Antonio Barona (r). ÂŠ D.R.

ach year, in association with the Nice CĂ´te d'Azur Chamber of Commerce (CCI), the Riviera Business Club hosts an award for businessperson of the year and best start-up of the year. Winners are chosen by a panel of judges who thoroughly examine the stability, growth and potential of businesses nominated by the public. Winners are then announced at a lively gala dinner in Cannes. If you would like to nominate so-

meone to be considered for the award, they must fit the following criteria: -Business Person of the Year Award: The business should be registered and operating in the PACA Region or the Principality of Monaco and should have been in business for a minimum of three years. -Start-Up of the Year Award: The business should be registered and operating in the PACA Region or the Principality of Monaco and

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ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

franTasTique! French lessons for advanced learners eed to improve your French but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the time? "Microlearning" is the name of the tried and tested concept that 15 minutes a day is enough to quickly achieve long-term success. "Frantastique", in partnership with Riviera Insider, promises to improve your French grammar and comprehension with their new programme. The lessons sent by e-mail adapt to the level of each individual - and never get boring thanks to their humorous, interactive and practical presentation. "Frantastique" learners discover the French language together with Victor Hugo (who was thawed out of ice) and a gang of aliens in a funny and entertaining way. Original videos, music and comics tell the story, and you answer questions and fill in the blanks. Each working day, users receive an e-mail with tasks that can be completed in ten minutes. After sending the completed answer sheet, a reply with corrections and explanations returns just a few se-

conds later. Daily delicacy: a "cafĂŠ gourmand" with extra information on a French-speaking celebrity. Before and after the start of a course, the level of each participant is determined and certified according to the European standard levels (from A1 for beginners to C2 for experts). By the way, "Frantastique" is not suitable for complete beginners: in order to be able to work sensibly, at least basic knowledge is expected. Also because of its business-oriented orientation, the programme is aimed at pupils over the age of 15 and adults. One version is also aimed at native French speakers. Rivera Insider has tested the programme and found it enjoyable and instructive. We all learned something in the first lesson! We have partnered with "Frantastique" to offer readers a 1-month free trial period, with an assessment of their individual language level! Et voilĂ - challenge yourself: The price for the online language course ranges from â&#x201A;Ź21 to â&#x201A;Ź89 euros per month, depending on the duration of the commitment and the scope of the service. ď ¸ www.riviera-press.fr/time/frantastique

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ART & CULTURE

The russian ballet ensemble Stanislavski performs "Giselle" at the Cannes Danse Festival on december 5th ÂŠ Ballett Stanislavski

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

ART & CULTURE

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“ART WASHES AWAY FROM THE SOUL THE DUST OF EVERYDAY LIFE.” -paBlo picasso

Contents Princess Grace in Dior: The new catalogue of the celebrated exhibit

58 art as investment: is it a sensible alternative?

59 The changing of the seasons isn’t just reserved for the weather; it’s also a big part of the cultural calendar. We’ve come through a busy summer of numerous outdoor music festivals. Now, as the air cools and the wine harvests begin, the theatre takes centre stage. The Côte d’azur oﬀers what the French and italians say: “an embarrassment of choice” for what to do and see. From traditional ballet to contemporary dance; symphony orchestra to opera, riviera insider has you covered for whatever suits your fancy. We have interviewed a variety of artists for this art special, including an author, a famous local sculptor, a graphic artist whose posters are popping up everywhere we look. We interview the artistic director of the Cannes Orchestra and even an art investment specialist for those considering a dip into ‘passion investments’.

Cipre & Co: Giving life to industrial sculpture

60 Chanel’s riviera: Life and times on the Côte d’azur

62 The agenda: Must-see art exhibitions

64 eric Garence: Nice’s poster boy

66 Little Big Theatre: anthéa Sogno and her Théâtre des Muses

67 On Stage: Cannes Festival de Danse

Dossier

arT

68 Benjamin Levy: Breathing new life into the Cannes Orchestra

70 a Cultured autumn: a classical Performance agenda

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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ART & CULTURE

PRINCESS GRACE IN DIOR The new catalogue of the celebrated exhibition By SARAH HyDE

“Grace of Monaco in Dior” New catalogue of the exhibition at the Christian Dior Museum in Granville. Published by Rizzoli, 2019 © Rizzoli

fined her role by outfits for events and galas—especially for the Red Cross Ball, the high-point of the Monegasque social calendar. Princess Grace understood the public need for a fairy tale princess, and with the finesse of Dior, she did not disappoint. The exhibit shows the clothes of the private princess as well, which were low-key and discreetly perfect – although a cream crepe silk pyjama suit studded with butterflies was lavish and lovely. One of the reasons that this show has been possible is that the Princess’ clothes were so lovingly cared for by an assistant; they are still nearly new and stored in Monaco. Outfits have been kindly lent by Prince Albert II. For those who have not visited Granville to see the exhibition at the Christian Dior Museum, there is a substitute: Rizzoli has published an exquisite catalogue of the show. Sharing details of the exhibition and giving fascinating insight into the dual role of HSH

Christian Dior by Marc Bohan. Long evening gown in white silk jersey decorated with white ostrich feathers, Autumn–Winter 1968 Haute Couture. Palais princier de Monaco collection. © Laziz Hamani

Princess Grace of Monaco - public figure and her private life as Grace, wife and mother. Given the success of the ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ show at the Victoria and Albert museum in London this summer, it will be interesting to see where this show travels to next. 

he association between Princess Grace and the House of Dior began when she celebrated her engagement to Prince Rainier III with a ball at the Waldorf Astoria in a stunning white Dior dress. ‘Princess Grace in Dior’, the current exhibition at the Dior Museum in Granville celebrates the 90th Anniversary of Princess Grace’s birth and celebrates the relationship between the iconic princess and the legendary fashion house. In a revealing interview, Marc Bohan, Artistic Director of Dior from 1961 until 1986 and close friend of the late Princess, provides a back story into Princess Graces’s love of flowers and gives away some charming insights into how the couture house worked. For example, despite the fact that Princess Grace’s sales assistant was the famous Madam Angnès, Bohan mangaged this very important account himself. Ever vigilant, he made it a habit to read the list of sales every morning at his desk, in order to ensure that the risk of repeating the same dress in a close group of women friends was averted - heaven forbid. Over time, he became close with Princess Grace and she enjoyed Dior perfumes and became a patron of Baby Dior in Monaco. Fabulous clothing is on display in the exhibit and what is clear is that Princess Grace deocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

November 7, 1967, Grace of Monaco opens the Baby Dior boutique at 28 avenue Montaigne in Paris. © Rue des Archives/AGIP

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one hand, this is the scientific investigation and, on the other hand, the historical evaluation. And here provenance plays a very important role. About once a month, we receive a request from an unknown intermediary who, for example, wants to insure a Picasso in a locker. In most cases, neither the current owner nor the history or authenticity of the picture can be reconstructed plausibly, even in the slightest. Such a work needs to be legitimized and validated by Allianz insurance, i.e. it is to be given a seal of quality by means of an insurance contract. We reject such inquiries; transparent and long-lasting customer relationships are important to us.

how much does a work of art have to cost in order to be suitable as an investment?

Dr. Martin M. Blumenthal (m), an expert for Passion Investments, Christian Sellin (r), Allianz specialist for pensions and financing, and lawyer Henning Schwarzkopf (l) at a lecture in Antibes.

ART AS AN INVESTMENT

Is it a sensible alternative? By JULIAN MENKE How do paintings, vintage cars, wines or whisky function as investment objects? We talked with Dr. Martin M. Blumenthal, specialist in passion investments who travels to art auctions and art fairs in order to always know the exact value of each object. how suitable is investing in "passion objects" as an investment? how much expertise does a collector need? As with any investment, expertise is indispensable. If you decide to invest in art or other so-called passion investments, the focus should never be on purely monetary returns. Passion investments offer so much more; if we want to stay in this vocabulary, then at least an "aesthetic" or a "cultural" return. According to the Frank knight Report, art as such has generated a return of around nine percent over the past twelve months, and as

much as 158 per cent over the past ten years. But of course that doesn't always apply to every work of art, just as one can't say that the value development of real estate is the same in all locations. Our recommendation is: If you invest time and passion, then the question of financial investment will be put into perspective.

how do you become a collector? That usually happens all by itself. You should be guided by your interests, inform yourself and exchange ideas. If, for example, I am interested in old cars, I would go to classic car events. If I am interested in art, I would look for galleries in my area, which art dealers, which fairs. At "Art DĂźsseldorf", for example, one of the new and exciting trade fairs in Europe, you have the opportunity to discover about 70 different galleries at the same time during a tour of the fair. Such a fair is a kind of market mirror that shows how prices develop, what the trends are. In this way, you can quickly build up your own know-how.

how can you be sure of the authenticity of a painting? To determine the authenticity of a work of art, it requires a two-pronged approach. On the

There is no rule for this. I know of many wonderful works that could be purchased for relatively little money at the time and now have a very high percentage return. Take Sigmar Polke's early prints, for example. Perhaps one should stick more to the following old truism: Never buy a second-rate work by a first-class artist.

You insure people who are in possession of extremely valuable works of art. how do your customers acquire these? Most collections have been meticulously built up over many years, with a lot of passion and detailed knowledge. Other collections have been in the family for generations and are now expanded, refined or refined with contemporary art, for example. I am not aware of the "attic finds" that are often quoted in literature from my almost 20 years of professional experience. On the other hand, we often experience the situation where customers bought something a long time ago and have no idea of the value. Once, for example, I was with a collector in Hamburg who had a modest collection - but in the bedroom a large Gerhard Richter hung over the bed. When I asked him how he got it, he replied succinctly: "Oh, my gallery owner talked me into it years ago".

is the best time to sell art after the death of the artist? Surely you can't say that in general terms. More important here is the current market trend of the artist, the time or place in which he worked, or his stylistic classification. If you want to approach the question strategically, you could ask which exhibitions are currently planned in galleries, which in institutions, how present he is at auctions and which collectors are committed to him. We say there are three "D's" in the art market that indicate when art will be put on the market: Divorce, Debt, Death. Here, death refers to the death of the collector, not the artist. ď ¸ ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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CIPRE & CO Giving life to industrial sculpture By NICOLE RUSKELL internationally recognised artist Stéphane Cipre has brought the ‘Nice school’ around the globe and his pieces can be found at airports and stadiums. Despite his notariety, this Nicois artist remains supergrounded and humble. riviera insider met with Cipre at his studio just outside Nice.

500 Vacances au bord de la mer © D.R.

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téphane Cipre is a self-identified nonconformist. In fact, he never did very well with rules or authority, and being dyslexic - a common trait for artists - didn’t lead to much success in school. But passion, endurance and a seriously strong work ethic pushed this Nice native to great heights. Describing his vast and varied style of artwork would not do justice to the larger than life feeling his pieces give. No matter the size, whether a table-top piece or monumental structure, his work bursts forth with personality and an energy that is almost tactile. His creations are fun and whimsical but also ironic and industrial. Stéphane truly found himself when he started to create art and blossomed when he learned to work with heavy metal. He designs most of his pieces digitally, but then he gets into his studio and creates casts which then become solid aluminium or bronze structures. He smelts, he welds, he saws and polishes until his pieces

become meticulous, stylized, ‘neo-modern’ art and always with an ironic message if the viewer is keen enough to notice. Perhaps ironically or perhaps out of spite, Cipre made a name for himself with sculptures made of words - a glimpse of how he meets his challenges head-on. “I took words and made it my life,” he says. His animal series has been quite popular in galleries, with animals shaped out of the letters: Cat, dog, fish, cow, horse… these are all fun pieces that liven up a room and are certainly conversation starters. Another popular series is his palette designs featuring different subjects tied and mounted to cast aluminium shipping palettes. The first piece he made was more of a political statement with large block letters ‘Made in China’ bound and secured onto a wooden palette (2006). It was a commentary piece on the state of society’s addiction to consumption. It won the Matisse prize at the Biennale de l’Union Méditerranéenne pour art moderne. ‘Hommage à Charlie’ is another political statement that needs no description when you look at it, for the powerful emotions that the twisted coloured pencils make piercing through a weak and bent assault rifle say all there is to say.

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way down, slowly morphing into figures of people, surrounding a mirrored peace sign at the bottom. This five-metre sculpture, unveiled in 2015, signifies ‘Peace and love’ and is an excellent way to greet international visitors to his home city.

a local collaboration

Art Sanglé © D.R.

But the breadth of his work is more lighthearted and fun, even if there are messages about globalisation and disparity. ‘Liberty’ is a series of stylised statues of Liberty, made with the letters stacked vertically and polished to a mirror finish. In place of her torch is the word ‘enjoy’ like in the Coca Cola ads. The sculpture is fun and evokes pleasant feelings, but is it also a commentary on the United States’ corporate culture replacing the original values of liberty? That is for the viewer to decide.

Très sportif Sport has always been very important to Stéphane, not only as a ‘sportif’ himself but also a fan and supporter. He has created numerous pieces for clubs, stadiums and national leagues. In 2011, a large sculpture of two rugby players crashing into a wall of ‘non-values’ was inaugurated at the Wellington Stadium for the New Zealand Rugby Union before the France vs. New Zealand game. These ‘nonvalues’ read: Disrespect, Lack of Discipline, Selfishness, Drugs, Cheating, Racism, and Individualism - all crushed head-first. A supporter of OGC Nice, Cipre has made several pieces for the club, including a fully cast foosball table with the OGC Nice players. Words line the inside of the table, including ‘president’, ‘big boss’ ‘millionaire’, ‘teenager’, ‘fan’... Here in Nice, don’t miss the classic Italian car weighed down by the instruments of a summer holiday. “500 Vacances au bord de la mer” was parked on the Promenade as a temporary installation for the summer of 2017 and returns to the Promenade des Anglais to see out the rest of 2019. On permanent display in Nice is “People”, the sculpture found at the entrance of Terminal 2 at the Nice airport. Starting with the word People on top, the word is repeated all the

Of all of his pieces, his favourite is the Art Sanglé series. “This is what made me known.” These super polished, shiny metal letters are cinched together by a rope or a belt of natural material making it appear that the metal is being squeezed. Two years ago, Cipre began working with Emmanuelle Esmiol, a Vallauris-based ceramic artist who creates replicas of his Art Sanglé series. “She brought this new material to me; I wasn’t familiar with it before,” he recounts. This collaboration works well for him, offering a chance to ‘democratise’ art - making it more accessible to people with ceramic reproductions at a lower price. In galleries, his sculptures sell in the thousands but a ceramic version by Emmanuelle is much more affordable. “I really like it because it gives a small price to our art. They are all numbered and signed with a limit of 200 pieces.” Our beautiful region of sea and mountains is a constant source of inspiration for Stéphane’s creativity, enjoying the “esthetic visuals” that surround us. However, his pieces are mostly inspired by “messages of love and things that make you smile.” He gives the example of the CAT piece, whose backside forms the A, or the DOG piece, whose leg lifting to pee forms the D. He loves paradoxes and play-on-words and if he can incorporate a joke or double-entendre, it delights him. No matter the subject, it’s the physical work that really fuels him. “I’m always in the stu-

ART & CULTURE

dio,” he says, “it nourishes me.” Stéphane has three other assistants in his studio to assist in making his large sculptures. When Riviera Insider visits, there is a full-size Rolls Royce Phantom in the atelier. Quite a step up from the Fiat 500 series! The enormous luxury car, with wine boxes stacked on the roof and a methuselah strapped to the boot, is completely cast in aluminium, even down to the tyres. The artist purchased a real Rolls in order to make a perfect replica. One of his largest pieces so far, Stéphane is clearly in his element. He loves working big. In fact, his dream is to make gigantic monuments for cities or in front of skyscrapers and perhaps even help design a building. Clearly the sky is no limit for him. 

ART EN FAÏENCE

Emmanuelle Esmiol in her studio in Valluaris © D.R.

in her studio in vallauris, emmanuelle esmiol recreates the Cipre & Co art Sanglé series in pottery. each handcrafted, she creates a variety of colours and styles, all numbered and signed. The high gloss glaze perfectly simulates the high gloss of the polished aluminium while also oﬀering a selection of vibrant colours. These smaller, more aﬀordable works can be purchased in galleries or online.

Art Sanglé in ceramic © D.R. Stéphane Cipre and ‘People’ at Nice airport © D.R.

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CHANEL’S RIVIERA Life and times on the Côte d’Azur By SARAH HyDE triumphing against the odds. The author kindly invited Riviera Insider for coffee in her Chelsea kitchen and as her beloved cats Lottie and Noah snaked through her legs, she takes the time to share her insight into the life of the legendary Gabriel Bonheur Chanel and commit the ultimate faux pas--talk about the war. “Anne there are so many sparkling anecdotes, you really capture the decadence of the moment and later the tragedy of the war, if you

Chanel’s Riviera by Anne de Courcy. Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 2019 © D.R.

nne de Courcy’s latest book, “Chanel’s Riviera,” recently published by Windenfield and Nicholson, is one of the latest historical accounts of high society in the French Riviera. Although bittersweet, this vibrant book allows a curious reader to peer through various keyholes of the pre-war decadence of the upper classes - and it is full of delicious anecdotes, glittering jewels and bitchy bickering. De Courcy depicts in splendid detail how the biggest dilemma in a hostess's life was how to address the new Duchess of Windsor and to diplomatically accommodate the extramarital love lives of her artistic, eccentric, (en)titled house guests. The book also goes beyond the glamour of the 1930s, moving forward through the glittering drunkenness of the prewar habitués, through a slightly uncanny phoney war and into something much more serious: the Riviera during wartime. It is perhaps in this aspect that the book is at its most fascinating, giving local readers real insight into what happened to the Jews in the region. Using first-hand accounts, it is a brilliantly researched history of the region during World War II. So carefully put together, it seems that history recounted by Anne De Courcy is the sum total of human experience and while this book documents dreadful tragedy, it is also infused with hope and miraculous tales of love ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

Anne Légende de Courcy à remplacer © D.R.© D.R.

could travel back in time when would you like to visit the region?” “Well I would certainly not like to go there in wartime. I think if I could I would like to be a guest of Somerset Maugham in about 1935.” On the subject of Chanel, who takes up perhaps a third of the book, Anne is adamant that Boy Capel was the love of Chanel's life: “even though they were not married, it was her first love, tragically cut short. Feelings about that can go on for a long time.” Anne believes that after the loss of Capel, Chanel’s approach to love became more practical, saying: “she regarded making love as one of life's pleasures, like a good meal.” As we discussed Coco Chanel’s outlook on life as she matured, Anne is not judgemental about Chanel’s life with Hans von Dincklage, adding: “I think surviving and then surviving well was

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Chanel’s primary objective.” When I asked Anne if Chanel was a nice woman - she took a sharp intake of breath before explaining: "nice is not the word for Chanel--she was a survivor. Having lived out her early years in a convent, it’s amazing that she avoided becoming institutionalised. Chanel was dedicated to her own survival and although capable of significant generosity to her friends and chosen charity, she could, of course, be ruthless.” “Anne, it’s amazing how you structure the book, weaving in the stories of people’s lives to create your narrative. How did you get so much detail of what the region was like during the war?” "I placed an advert in Nice Matin asking for people to come forward with stories of the war and then I made a research trip to the Riviera meeting those who responded. In this way you learn things that you would never find out from a book. For example, I discovered that in the villages the locals cut the tops off their potato crops so that the Germans would not be able to insist on harvesting them. “One person will come forward and tell you

part of a story and then perhaps tell a friend about you and so it goes on, one story leading to another.” Perhaps the biggest surprise in her research was about the Italians: “The information about how protective the Italian Carabinieri were to the Jews was a revelation. As one of my interviewees stated, ‘all the Italians were interested in were food and women.’” Anne is modest about her French but was able to conduct all the interviews in the local language. She also consulted the Oral Histories at the Imperial War Museum and even travelled to the World Holocaust Remembrance Centre in Yad Vashem to find out the history of the Jews in the French Riviera. Anne has carefully selected stories that are infused with ‘against all odds’ hope. For example, a story she discovered in Israel was about Marta and Lion Feuchtwanger, who were so happy to be reunited and make their escape together. “Chanel’s Riviera” is laced with these types of detail, including the fascinating tale of Simone Jacob, who was captured in Nice just after she had taken her Baccalaureate in 1944. Simone took the examination in her own name

because the certificate would be so important later in life. That fateful decision led to her arrest and she was taken to the Gestapo headquarters at The Excelsior in Nice and then on to Auschwitz and later Belson. She miraculously survived. It is only by a footnote that Anne discovered her name later changed by marrying Antoine Veil. Simone wound up becoming president of the European Parliament and a minister of health. “What I am really interested in is social history,” she tells me. “It’s vital to understand the prevalent attitude of the time - you can’t judge the past by modern standards.” “Anne, there is the old adage - don’t mention the war. You certainly did in this book - how was that received?” "I did talk about the war. I think the French have never really come to terms with collaboration but it’s so hard to determine. Certainly a repeated theme was how vicious some of the French were in their assistance of the Germans and betrayal of the Jews, but the most poignant comment I heard came from a soldier who was part of the liberating forces in Paris - the most memorable thing to him was all the hair in the street." 

Musée Louis de Funès

vices. From old televisions to large HD screens, film clips include: “La Grande Vadrouille”, “Rabi Jacob”, “Le Corniaud”, “La Folie des grandeurs”, “L’aile ou la cuisse”, the biggest films that created the legendary quotes still repeated today. This new museum truly conveys the joy and energy Louis de Funès was known for. Old phones are dispatched through the entire museum. On the phone, the voice of Louis de Funès himself is narrating anecdotes and stories of his life and work, from his relationship with his children, to disclosing that he never really wanted to be famous. “I wanted to make the right thing”, echoes this hard-working man, who shot more than 140 films. Under a ceiling full of roses, visitors can find the actor’s lesser-known personality trait, as a strong advocate of nature’s preservation and gardening lover at his mansion Clermont au Cellier, near Nantes: a safe haven for the actor. “If I should do everything all over again, I would study horticulture”, Louis de Funès declared to a journalist visiting him in his property. Fans will get emotional in front of Rabi Jacob’s famous hat, “l’Avare’s” coins, storyboards from “La Grande Vadrouille”, and even de Funès’ César d’Honneur presented by Jerry Lewis during the Cesar Award ceremony in Paris in 1980. This collection of unique pieces was granted by the actor’s family to the museum. Before that, the collection was exposed for quite some time in the Louis de Funès Museum in Cellier. A museum that closed in 2016 after the family mansion was sold. But the collection found a new home in the very heart of Saint-Raphaël, on rue Jules-Barbier. Coincidentally, this is where Louis de Funès shot a scene from his last film, “Le Gendarme et les Gendarmettes’, released in 1982, just be-

fore his death from a heart-attack on January 27, 1983. In the museum archives, some 300 pieces are still patiently waiting to be exposed. Meanwhile, visitors will leave the museum with the urge to re-watch some of the timeless actor’s filmography. 

NEW IN SAINT-RAPHAëL By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

household name across Europe, Louis de Funès is best known for his antics as the Gendarme of St Tropez. A new museum dedicated entirely to France’s favourite actor opened in Saint-Raphaël, near the town’s Gendarmerie Museum. Inaugurated on the 31st of July, 105 years to the day of the beloved actor’s birth, the Louis de Funès Museum opened its doors to the public on the 1st of August. This new museum was built in only six months. In this muffled atmosphere, the town of Saint-Raphaël and the de Funès family designed an intimate space with bright colours where the public can walk into the life and work of one of French cinema’s comic giants. Items include accessories, movies, drawings and more, spanning from his birth in Courbevoie, to his early years as a young pianist, to his first films and finally, Louis de Funès’ late fame. The museum is composed of more than 350 pieces; including rare documents, Gaumont’s collections, personal behind the scenes photographs from the actor himself, movie posters, letters and even film accessories. Of course, many films are on loop in the different rooms of the museum and on different vintage de-

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The Agenda Must-see exhibitions By SARAH HyDE Finally the air cools, the tourists leave and the markets ﬁll with ﬁgs and walnuts. There is a wistful moment as the light gets shorter but more golden; summer has come to an end. However, not all is lost because with the help of Riviera Insider there is plenty of fun to be had.

or those who love South of France style from the glory years of the seventies and early eighties — the contents of the home of famous French Script writer Danielle Thompson, daughter of Gérard Oury et Jacqueline Roman are coming up for sale on the 5th of October in St Tropez. Best described as the ‘real deal’ the furniture is superb and all the legends of French cinema will have visited this house including our very own B.B. You can get a sneak peek before the sale by visiting the Art Curial website or the actual Villa Les Oliviers on Thursday 3 and Friday 4 October, 2019 from 11 am to 7 pm and Saturday 5 October from 10 am to 12 pm. 138 route du Capon 83990, Saint-Tropez www.artcurial.fr Another style delicacy is available at the other end of the coast in Monaco. The spirit of Le Corbusier is never far from the Cote D’Azur, however, perhaps Le Corbusier’s greatest and most joyful work was Chandigarh in India. The dream city of India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, commissioned soon after independence was a hugely successful project, where ideology and architecture worked together to create an urban emblem of state. Le Corbusier designed most of the city and the wonderful architecture has become a site of world heritage. The interior decor was designed with the same zeal, mass produced at the time to utilise the forest cleared for the project. The furniture and fittings have become highly desirable and Jacques Dworczak recently produced the “Catalogue Raisonné du Mobilier: Jeanneret Chandigarh” for Assouline. Since the furniture has developed a near cult following, the catalogue has been in high demand. If you are interested in seeing the real thing, this magnificent furniture design and the catalogue will be on show at Casamanara until 9 November 2019. Le Roccabella, 24 avenue princess grace, mc 98000, +337 979 830 46. If vintage is your thing, especially vintage clothes - there will also be furniture, cars and vinyl from 150 different exhibitors from around the world - save up your pennies and put a

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circle around 26 -27 October for the Monaco Vintage Salon, with a special tribute to karl Lagerfeld. In anticipation of the dispersal of his estate (which RI is certainly excited about), this could be an amazing place to pick up that little Chanel suit that you have always dreamed of or some other life-changing item that could transport you out of mere mortality to your rightful place at the VIP table of cool! 10 am – 7 pm, Tickets €7, free under twelve. Espace Fontvieille, 5 avenue des ligures 98000 monaco. Last year was all about Yves klein, this year, in Vence at least, they are celebrating his good friend Arman; another local artist. Remarkably, the two boys met in 1947 at the Judo club in Nice and both became famous conceptual artists. They shared a passion for philosophy and spirituality and the legend has it that along with their friend Claude Pascall, the three young men choose to "share the world": to Arman returns the land and its riches, to Claude Pascal the air, and to Yves the sky and its infinity. Arman, Nouvel état des choses until 15th of December at the Musée de Vence Fondation Emile Hugues. 2, place du frêne, vence. +33 (0)4 93 24 24 23. Autumn is a great time to drive, the air is cooler and the roads are empty so why not take a visit to Aix where everything is turning Japanese. There is a wonderful opportunity to contrast Japanese exhibitions at two very different venues. The glorious 17th century town house Hôtel de Caumont is opening Masterpieces of Japanese Art from the collection of Georges Leskowicz on the 8th of November, these jewel like works including wood block prints and ancient manuscripts will be exquisite in this superbly lit museum. www.caumont-centredart.com Then head through the countryside to Château La Coste to experience the stunning collection of modern architecture and art - with contemporary Japanese art work from Yoshitomo Nara – his first solo exhibition in 15 years. If you are not driving, take in some of the local Château La Coste produce (hic), walk the Sculpture Trail and also visit the new exhibitions of Liliane Tomasko and Jean-Michel Othoniel. www.chateau-la-coste.com

If you would like to carry on through Provence and see the some nocturnal illuminations which are heavily influenced by Japanese Woodcuts, Les Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence is bound to put a twinkle in your step. La Nuit étoilée, an immersive audio/visual experience, projects Van Gogh’s greatest works, floor to ceiling, including the legendary Starry Night. Between the Van Gogh screenings, a short program is presented dedicated to the Japanese universe. Until 5 January, 2020. www.carrieres-lumieres.com The year of film continues in Nice and there are three particularly interesting exhibitions and events happening this autumn: CinéMatisse at the Musée Matisse should be fascinating for all those who are interested in the relationship between one of the region’s greatest artists and cinema. Until 5 January, 2020. www.musee-matisse-nice.org. At Maison Abandonée, ‘Ian Curtis Likes this Place’ is based around a visit Joy Division made to Nice in December 1979 - curated by Julien Griffaud and Quentin Spohn. This is a reflection on the construction of urban myth and modern legend as most of the artists who have made the work were not even born when the visit took place and yet it has entered into their collective unconscious. This looks very curious and is our local expression of broader interest in the time period that is currently affecting the art world. Until 11 October. www.villacameline.fr Finally, at the end of the November, get involved in the OVNi - Objective Video Nice, the city-wide interactive art exhibit. The parcours lasts from the 22 November until 1 December, where video art will appear throughout the city in various locations, including private residences. During the last weekend, 29 Nov – 1 Dec is OVNi à l’Hôtel and OVNi Galleries – Camera Camera, when a competition takes place in which artists are given rooms at the Windsor hotel. www.ovni-festival.fr

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Hôtel de Caumont: Masterpieces of Japanese Art from the collection of Georges Leskowicz

Catalogue Raisonné du Mobilier: Jeanneret Chandigarh, Assouline 2019

Japan Dreamed, images of the floating world. © Culturespaces / Danny Rose

New state of things by TohuBohu Editions, 2019

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ART & CULTURE

ERIC GARENCE The poster boy for the Côte d’Azur By CHRISSIE MCCLATCHIE

n 2015, as the General Manager of a Paris-based digital marketing start-up, Eric Garence’s daily routine involved building mobile apps for big corporations such as SNCF and BNP Paribas. Fast-forward to 2019, Eric, now back home on the Riviera, has swapped the boardroom for a Cagnes-surMer creative studio and his illustrations can be seen throughout the Côte d’Azur and even adorn the Presidential walls of the Elysée Palace. His fresh take on vintage travel posters – the type used to lure visitors to the Côte d’Azur ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

since the turn of the 20th century – has earned him a new wave of clients. Local tourist boards are particularly keen on using his bright néo-rétro designs to attract the next generation of travellers to their own towns and cities. Yet, surrounded by an exhibition of his posters in Nice’s Le Saint Paul hotel, Eric tells Riviera Insider that even if art “has always been a passion,” he’d never thought of it as a career – and has never had any formal training. Instead, he studied law at the Université Nice Sophia Antipolis and the Sorbonne, followed by a Master’s in Management at SkEMA Business School. It was during his time in the capital, having taught himself how to use software such as Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, that he started sketching his neighbourhood around the Eiffel Tour – the subject of one of his first-ever posters. The year was 2016. “My customers, many of whom were my friends, really liked what I was doing,” he recalls. He started sharing his designs on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram. When the time came to return to the South of France, Eric assumed he’d find work in the digital sector. But a single phone call turned his passion into a surprise career. “An agency had seen my work on social media and asked me to design for the brand Côte d’Azur.” It has proved an enduring collaboration that has

seen him become an ambassador for the Nice Côte d’Azur region and his designs can now be found on over 140 products from brands such as Galeries Lafayette and Fragonard. As much as he refers to early pioneers of the style such as Roger Broders, Savignac and Cassandre for inspiration, the reason he’s carved out a niche designing posters is found much closer to home: “My mother collects photos of ghost signs, and, for as long as I remember, she’s always snapped vintage advertisements on the side of buildings,” he explains. “It was quite easy for me to reinterpret this old style with a more modern approach.” Today, inspiration is wherever he turns in Nice; from the iconic blue chairs along the Promenade des Anglais to lesser-known attractions such as the Bellet vineyards. But past the city limits, he’s been commissioned by clients in Saint-Tropez, Switzerland and beyond. “Two out of every three artworks are orders, the third is a passion project,” he says. Whether for commission or passion, “there’s a lot of work behind each poster,” he continues. “The actual art is the end of the process. Before that, I study the place and choose the details.” He carefully selects a handful of symbols that best depict the destination. “The design itself is not really interesting, telling a story about somewhere is,” he says. Having struck the right balance between modern and vintage, word about Eric’s art is getting out. Late last year an unexpected phone call from Garrett Camp, the Uber co-founder, resulted in two illustrations for a new business interest of the Canadian entrepreneur, aero.com. Another owner of his designs is Emmanuel Macron. “The President and Brigitte Macron love my artwork,” he beams. “In fact, they have two originals: one is at the Elysée Palace and the other at the Fort de Brégançon.” The wide smile on Eric’s face suggests the 39year-old still can’t believe where the last four years have taken him. “First it was just for me, and even today, I still do things for me,” he grins. “But now I sell my art too, so it’s a little bit different.” 

Eric's designs for Fragonard. © Côte d'Azur France

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BIG LITTLE THEATRE Anthéa Sogno and her Théâtre des Muses By AILA STöCKMANN

Anthéa Sogno © D.R.

here once bread was baked for the palace, there is now a theatre. A small foyer with reception welcomes visitors and in the performance hall around 100 red velvet chairs are tiered below a stage with light parquet flooring. Here, on the Boulevard du Jardin Exotique, on the outskirts of Monaco, in a long-standing family re-

sidence, Anthéa Sogno has fulfilled her dream to open a theatre. She hasn't taken a day off in eight years. Her dream eats up her life, she says, "it is as if you get triplets at a more mature age" - and yet it is a fulfilment. She can even let people participate in what she really loves. Anthéa Sogno works day and night and is habitually exhausted. In recent years she has created a unique place: Here art is performed within the intimate circle of a family, for dessert there is champagne or orange juice. With the difference that the number of ‘family’ is is around 18,500 per season, welcomed by her small team. The Monegasque speaks of the "eclectic, but excellent" programme of the Théâtre des Muses: "I always do my programme for people who have never been to the theatre before - our plays mainly appeal to a large audience, but at the same time are very sophisticated. They are sophisticated plays, but with an easy approach; silly one-man shows are repugnant to the Monegasque.” Victor Hugo will be seen again and again on the small stage, as well as works by Sacha Guitry, Molière and Marcel Pagnol. For those who are not too proficient in the French lan-

ART & CULTURE

guage, musicals are a good choice. There are also regular performances for children and, of course, acting courses. When we meet in May, there is not a single point on the programme for the new autumn season. Anthéa Sogno doesn't panic about it, but she does sigh. Only in August does the programme crystallise, she explains, because in July she goes to Avignon, one of the most important theatre festivals in the world, to see young ensembles. She selects the most promising from the still unknown troupes who perform at the "Off" festival and with a sure hand invites them to Monaco. It is not uncommon for them to subsequently become celebrated new discoveries. She also gets established ensembles and stars of the stage - mostly from Paris - even at comparatively short notice: "I'll get them on the dates where they still have room in the calendar." It can be that simple - and the audience gets a condense of the best that the French capital has to offer. Anthéa has particular talent to put big things together with small means, certainly also the location plays a role - who wouldn't like to be invited to the Principality by the Mediterranean Sea? But Anthéa Sogno's popularity in theatre circles is likely to weigh heavier. For 20 years she has been successful in Paris as an actress, director and writer on and behind the stage; old friends and companions are only too happy to follow her call to the south for a guest performance. Like her great-grandmother, the wellknown French TV journalist PPDA alias Patrick Poivre d'Arvor called her "the Sarah Bernhardt of this century" after a visit to a play by and with Anthéa. Bernhardt, the Paris-born actress (1844 - 1923) is considered one of the first world stars. For Anthea, mother of a twelve-year-old daughter, theatre is "art form par excellence for conveying strong messages". And she cannot help but miss the lively, colourful, inspiring scene in Paris. As much as her passion makes her happy and exhausted at the same time, it remains an eternal struggle to get the theater full - and thus profitable. "Unfortunately, it's not a success on its own," says the artistic director, and there's a geographical limit: "From Nice, almost nobody comes this far anymore." That's why Anthéa Sogno promises every single guest of her little big theatre: "They will spend a great evening here! 

in October, there will be several classic evenings where anthéa Sogno and her team will give tastings of the coming season. Check the website for current dates: www.letheatredesmuses.com Théâtre des Muses, Monaco © D.R.

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ART & CULTURE

ON STAGE By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE

Festival de Dance Cannes

annes will again welcome this year a newly adapted Dance Festival. A new name, a wider range of performances and new cultural collaborations with locations across the Riviera, this is the new formula imagined for the 2019 edition of the Cannes Festival de Dance, from the 29th of November to the 15th of December. The organisers of the festival are collaborating with six cultural institutions this year: Anthéa in Antibes, the Théâtre National de Nice, the Forum Jacques Prévert in Carros, the Théâtre de Grasse, Scène 55 in Mougins and finally, the Théâtres en Dracénie in Draguignan. This will be the first Dance Festival with so much fusion and difference in style and scenery. All the performances have been thought of specifically for the cultural exchange between all the locations in the region. The creation of “Ma Mère L’Oye” by Marion Lévy and the Orchestra de Cannes Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur, produced by Benjamin Lévy and Rosella Hightower, is a particularly new and unconventional collaboration. Marion Lévy is Benjamin Levy’s sister and herself an artistin-residence, associate and partner artist. Part of the 100% family series and performed at the Théâtre de Grasse, “Ma mere l’Oye” challenges our concepts of classic stories and beliefs. What happens if sleeping beauty doesn’t wake up? What if our fears become our liberators? With music and humour the stage becomes a forest playground for the dancers. The last creation from Arthur Pérole will be showcased at the Théâtre en Dracénie in Draguignan, where he also is an artist-in-residence. Anthéa in Antibes, hosts the São Paulo Companhia de Dança with plays by Joëlle Bouviet, Cassi Abranches and Jomar Mesquita. The Théâtre National de Nice brings Josette Baïz from Aix-en-Provence with her play “La Finale”, whereas kubilai khan Investigations, a dance company based in Toulon, will perform at the Forum Jacques Prévert in Carros. Scène 55, the theatre of Mougins will highlight a shared night with “Parallèles” by Raphaël Cottin and Jean Guizerix, along with “Mon Corps Palimpseste” by Eric Oberdorff. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

With 21 performances, among which 15 are in Cannes and six in other locations on the French Riviera, there is more on offer than ever. 14 of the productions were created this year, including four co-productions, three world premieres, one European premiere, two French

premieres and one unique play commissioned specifically for the festival. This program blooms at the hand of Brigitte Lefèvre, the artistic director of the festival, with a desire for eclecticism and inner coherence. Different visions and writings will pay tribute to

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ART & CULTURE

Cannes leads the region this season with their cultural calendar. From the Orchestra to the Palais des Festival and the Theatre Licorne, all ages styles and taste will have plenty see. The annual Festival de Danse is uniting multiple theatres across the alpes-Maritimes for the biggest and most eclectic collaboration to date.

Théâtre de la Licorne : a family aﬀair

the richness of today’s dance world. From “Giselle”, a romantic ballet masterpiece, to Mickaël Le Mer’s elegant hip-hop choreography “Butterfly” where body movements are specific to the Yeah Yellow Dance Company. Both dance companies will also organise cultural events in collaboration with the Théâtre de la Licorne in Cannes. Inside of the exchanges between two very distinct time-periods, Brigitte Lefèvre created secret correspondences: “Giselle”, presented by Moscow’s Ballet Stanislavski, can now be performed alongside Noé Soulier’s plays as well as “Falling Stardust” by Amala Dianor, which both deconstruct classical dance. Moreover, the classical ballet can also be related to a surprising performance by James Sewell, exploring mental health issues with Frederick Wiseman. Last but not least, Radhouane El Meddeb’s “Swan Lake” reinterpretation with the Ballet de l’Opéra National du Rhin, makes sure to nourish the white of the swan. Honour where honour is due, the Lausanne Béjart Ballet will open Cannes Dance Festival this year on the 29th of November. Meanwhile, audiences will be able to discover - or rediscover - legendary performances of Sasha Waltz and körper, with two singular pieces questioning the evolution of choreography and today’s dance heritage. 

ictor Hugo once declared that “Freedom begins where ignorance ends”. This is where the Théâtre de la Licorne comes into play. It offers a wide range of plays dedicated to families and especially children, as they have a unique selection of performances with the Festival “P’tits Cannes à toi” from 18 to 30 October. Culture has always been at the core of our society, of our identity as human beings. This common cultural history through each and every one of our lives develops our capacities to think, to analyse, contemplate and understand the world surrounding us. Culture is key. That is why the city of Cannes wishes to facilitate access to culture for everyone and more specifically for families. Throughout Cannes, different locations are dedicated to spreading culture. Theatre, music, circus and dance are mixing genres and talents from all over the world to offer the best in the very heart of the city. The Théâtre de la Licorne has a specific target in mind when it comes to opening up: families and more specifically children. Indeed, a very strong focus is made on attracting children - and their parents - to theatre. As part of a larger cultural plan created by

Mayor David Lisnard in 2017 called “100% Education Artistique et Culturelle” or “EAC”, the Théâtre de la Licorne focuses mainly on plays interesting to young children. In October, the Festival “P’tits Cannes a toi” has musical tales, for 6 years old and over, such as “La Voix d’Ella”, performed by The Amazing keystone Big Band covering legendary Ella Fitzgerald’s biggest hits (on 18th of October). The audience will also be able to choose from a wide range of plays, dance performances, marionette shows and circus, with La Mondiale générale performing “Sabordage!” a short circus play using absurd situations and body balance to entertain children from 7 years old and up (30 October). Performances open to young audience will carry on after the Festival ends. In November and December, several plays such as “Ce que le jour doit à la nuit” and “Dos au mur” will introduce children to hip hop and acrobatic choreography. Music will also be prominent at the beginning of each month with “Les jeudis du Jazz” showcasing the duo Airelle Besson and Lionel Suarez in November, followed by Arnaud Dolmen Quartet in December, both in collaboration with the Festival Jazz Sous Les Bigaradiers. Finally, with different genres, a wide range of propositions and more than affordable prices for families (tickets usually uner 10 euros), the Théâtre de la Licorne is the first theatre in the Alpes-Maritimes to get the unique label of “Scène conventionnée d’intérêt national art, enfance, jeunesse.” A label that comes as another proof of Cannes’ pioneering spirit for artistic education. 25, avenue Francis Tonner, Cannes La Bocca. 

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ART & CULTURE

BENJAMIN LEVY Breathing new life into the Cannes Orchestra By NICOLE RUSKELL

The 2019/2020 season in full swing and riviera insider had the pleasure to speak with artistic Director, Benjamin Levy about his innovative and contemporary approach to a night at the Orchestra.

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

t used to be that the city orchestra was strictly traditional with a duty to play the great composers in a rigid style in order to pay homage to a bygone era. But these days, many orchestras find themselves playing to an aged crowd and unable to reach or interest younger generations. Fortunately, there are a handful of creative, Avant-guard conductors in the world and the Orchestre de Cannes has found one such innovator. Benjamin Levy, who took over as director for the 2018/2019 season may be considered a ‘disruptor’ by traditionalists. He is, of course, dedicated to the traditional concerts of great composers, but he emphasises that people forget that Bach, Mozart and Beethoven were contemporary musicians in their time and were pushing the envelope with their work. “It’s important to understand that Bach came before Mozart and Mozart before Beethoven. They were each creating new music,” he explains. To give an 18th/19th century paragon, imagine how loyal Vivaldi fans of the 1700s were shocked by Beethoven’s intense symphonies and use of vocals in the way that fans of Sinatra in the 1950s would react to their children blasting Elvis in their bedroom. Both Beethoven and Elvis changed their music genres forever. Mr Levy believes that changing music and trying new innovative collaborations is just as important to staying current today. Music is often described as ‘a universal language,’ but Mr Levy does not agree: “Music is like a family. Not everyone is on the same wavelength.” For this reason, he seeks out soloists to play with the orchestra who match their wavelength. They may be world-renowned classical soloists or they may never have played with an orchestra before. The important thing, says mr Levy, is that they are “sensitive to history, know the context of the work, but are also contemporary.” Since taking the reins, audiences have been able to experience musical collaborations that have never happened before. Last season opened

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ART & CULTURE

with ‘Plaza Francia’, a collaboration between the orchestra and electronic tango group, Gotan Project, blending two very different genres and backgrounds to immense success. Riviera Insider gave tickets to ‘Eh bien, dansez maintenant’, which showcased accordionist Félicien Brut playing a series of lively songs from the period between the two World Wars when the Parisian culture of the accordion flourished. Other innovative pairings include ‘Summertime’ that paired Vivaldi and Haendel with Gershwin and Porter. This eclectic and refreshing approach has not only been a hit with audiences, but it has also been a breath of fresh air for the members of the orchestra. According to Mr Levy, it can be easy to become bored playing the same concerts year after year. He tells us the musicians have really responded well to the variety of soloists and backgrounds they bring, which keep the musicians alert and interested. Benjamin Levy’s passion for music is contagious as he enthusiastically describes what he does. It is also contagious during performances when he will stop, turn to the audience and begin explaining a piece, offering a historical setting, some anecdotes and maybe cracking a joke or two. Witnessing this for the first time can feel a bit surprising, like watching an actor doing an aside and speaking directly to the camera. But the warm interaction and the knowledge gained gives a completely different experience. According to Mr Levy, this shatters the barrier between the people and the musicians and helps bring them “into the family.” He jokes about the classic image of the conductor coming out “in a penguin suit” and acting like a silent boss. “When you give people context and direct their ear, they have a greater appreciation for what is about to be heard.” Breaking these old-fashioned barriers is something he strives for; feeling that the only way to ensure the future of the classical orchestra is to involve everyone. “Your orchestra and your city should have more proximity to the people,” he says. What effect has this had so far? “People stop me in the street now to say how much they enjoyed the show.” 

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ART & CULTURE

a culTureD autumn

Palais des Festivals Cannes What? Ara Malikian “Royal Garage World Tour” Ara Malikian is Armenian and grew up listening to Lebanese music. He also is the first violinist of the Madrid Royal Orchestra that looks like a biker. Listening to his music is very similar to travelling the world: from Spain, to Argentina, China, Japan, Moscow and Paris.

What?

When?

19 October - 8.30 pm

Cirque Eloize “Hotel” After “Saloon” in summer 2017, the Cirque Eloize celebrates its 25th Anniversary with a new show. From the 70’s to a futurist era in 2040, staff and travellers alike gather in a hotel lobby, to offer a very unique and moving show.

26 October - 8.30 pm

What? Dani Lary “TIC-TAC” The very talented illusionist who’s always pushing back the limits of the possible comes back with a new autobiographical show. From his childhood when he dreamt of becoming a magician to the stage he’s on now.

When? 31 December at 8.30 pm and 1 January at 4 pm

Where?

Grand Auditorium - Palais des Festivals

Théâtre Debussy - Palais des Festivals

Grand Auditorium - Palais des Festivals

www.palaisdesfestivals.com

When? 17 November - 4.30 pm

Where? Théâtre Debussy - Palais des Festivals

What? TickeT giveaWaY! Enter to win a pair of tickets to see the Cannes Orchestra perform Brahms + Beethoven on 20 December at 8.30 pm. Open to subscribers. For details, visit the competition section of our website: www.riviera-press.fr

De Prague à New york Les Mardis de l’Orchestre The orchestra will go from Anton Dvorak’s American Quatuor to his quintet.

When? 8th October - 7pm

Where? MJC Picaud - Cannes

www.orchestre-cannes.com

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Orchestre de Cannes What? Piano Series II Rachmaninov Partnering with the Institut d’Enseignement Supérieur de la Musique (IESM), Cannes’ orchestra will be led by Pierre Bleuse, with Lise de la Salle at the piano to play this legendary piece by the Russian composer. Rachmaninov take the audience by the end through a whirlwind of emotions.

What? Brahms + Beethoven Brahms composed this concerto to get close to his lifelong lost friend. That is why Alexandra Soumm and VictorJulien-Lafferière come together and unite their talent with emotions. Riviera Insider has a pair of tickets for subscribers! Details in the text box.

When? 20 December - 8.30 pm

Where? Théâtre Croisette - Hôtel JW Marriott Cannes

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What? Le Cabaret de Broadway à Chicago The 18th Nice Opérette festival Melcha Coder produces extract from the Cabaret and Chicago musicals by John kander. Very different artists are participating, as well as Bologne’s International Musical Competition’s winner and the Arte Danza University.

When? 12 and 13 October – 3 pm

Where? Conservatoire à Rayonnement Régional de Nice

Opéra Nice Côte d’Azur What? Jacques Offenbach - La Vie Parisienne With the unique performance of Nice’s Philharmonic Orchestra and Nice’s Opera Chorus, “La Vie Parisienne” is a comical opera first performed in Paris, in 1866 at the Théâtre du Palais Royal.

When? 2 and 3 November 8 pm and 3 pm

Where? Opéra de Nice

www.opera-nice.org

Grimaldi Forum:

What? young Russian Singers from the Académie de l’Opéra de Monte-Carlo Concert Extract from classical ballets. Mentored by Barbara Fritoli and Ludovic Tézier, singers will be able to study French and Italian pieces. A cultural exchange that commemorates the historical link between the Principalities stage and Russia.

When? 30 October – 8 pm

Where? Salle Garnier

What? Die Nibelungen Ciné-Concert Music will mirror black and white images from Germany in 1924 live with Jean Francois Zygel playing piano. The first part will introduce Die Nibelungen: Siegfried and the second one Die Nibelungen: kriemhild's Revenge directed by Fritz Lang.

When? 3 November – 11 am and 3 pm

ART & CULTURE

Opéra de Monte-Carlo

Where? Salle Garnier

What? The Damnation of Faust Hector Berlioz on the 150th Anniversary of the composer’s death, the legendary drama in four part will be performed again on the Principality’s stage. Reconnecting with the controversial staging of Raoul Gunsberg, this time produced in a more modern way.

When? 15 and 17 December – 3 pm and 8 pm

Where? Salle Yakov kreizberg - Auditorium Rainier III

What? Concerto Uto Ughi & I Solisti Veneti Considered one of the greatest violinists of our time, Uto Ughi has shown extraordinary talent since childhood, becoming, at the age of 12, an "accomplished artist". Uto Ughi plays with exceptional violins: a Guarneri del Gesu' from 1744 and a Stradivari "kreutzer" from 1701. For this concert, he will play as a soloist and at the same time conduct the prestigious I Solisti Veneti Orchestra. This orchestra, founded by Claudio Scimone, has received many international awards such as the Grammy Los Angeles.

When? 15 November – 8 pm

Where? Salle Prince Pierre

www.balletsdemontecarlo.com

What?

Cirque Phenix The Monkey King From a very traditional and famous novel about Sun Wu kong, otherwise known as the Monkey king, the story includes adventures and lessons. Performed by award winning Chinese acrobatic group, Cirque Phénix. An epic, comic, acrobatic show that is suitable for all generations of spectators.

Driftwood - Compagnie Casus Circus (Australia) Created by Jesse Scott, this new show breaks away from the traditional rules of the circus and push the human body to extreme performances. A very minimalist staging will highlight the bodies on stage with a bizarre Cabaret vibes.

When? 7 and 8 December – 8 pm and 3 pm

When? 12 October - 8.30 pm

Where? Scène 55, Mougins

Scène 55 What? Sacre // Milena & Michael Sacre is a rewriting of Stravinsky’s masterpiece. This play is performed by only five dancers, dancing on salsa rhythms as well as more sensual composition. Staged by Emanuel Gat, he already won a Bessie Award in New York: one of the most prestigious recognition for choreography.

When?

Where?

23 November - 8.30 pm

Salle des Princes

Where? Scène 55, Mougins

www.grimaldiforum.com

www.scene55.fr

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EVENTS

france 3 - 20 OCTOBER MOUGINS le lavoir De mougins This exhibition organised by the Ambassade International des Arts, will showcase various artists such as Laurence Mourier, Philippe Cormier, Robert Augier, Peter McLane, Régine kruger, Sylvain Sananes or Annie Fiurmara.

9 - 13 OCTOBER FRéJUS "roc D'azur" 36th edition of the internationally renowned mountain bike event. www.rocazur.com

15 OCTOBER

31 OCTOBER

ANTIBES rose regaTTa As part of October Rose, the SOS Breast Cancer Association organizes the "ROSE" Regatta to promote breast cancer screening and the fight against this disease. Anawards ceremony at the Clubs Nautiques will end the day. www.soscancerdusein.org

ÈZE halloWeen Free program from 9 am to 12 pm. With festive decorations, children's shows and a parade through the alleys of the town. www.eze-tourisme.com

18 - 20 OCTOBER LA CIOTAT "il eTaiT une fois 1720" A journey back in time to the year 1720 is offered by the historical festival of La Ciotat with traditional craftsmanship and costumes from the 18th century. Admission free. www.festival1720.eu

11 - 13 OCTOBER SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT TraiTs D’humour caricaTure fesTival Always fun, often comic and sometimes controversial, press drawings and caricatures deserve their own Festival. Each artist will showcase their work and take you by the hand into their world.

11 - 18 OCTOBER NICE "un fesTival c'esT Trop courT!" The best young European creatives present their short films. At different locations in Nice. www.nicefilmfestival.com

12 - 13 OCTOBER SAINTE-MAXIME "9ème sainTe-maxime free flighT WorlD masTers" For the ninth time in a row, the French Air Force and its aerobatics team are running a spectacular show in the sky. www.free-flight.saintemaxime.com

13 OCTOBER CANNES BeaTrice uria-mozon reciTal The famous Mezzo-Soprano singer will showcase Spanish and Italian pieces of Mediterranean tones, with a warm voice and a strong personality. At 5 pm Espace Miramar www.cannes.com

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20 OCTOBER CANNES "piano series i: chopin" The Regional Orchestra invites you to open the season with Francesco Piemontesi on piano. 16.30, Palais des Festivals et des Congrés, Théâtre Debussy. www.orchestre-cannes.com

22 OCTOBER LA CROIX-VALMER guiDeD hike Discover the beauty of the coastal path on a 3km guided tour (free). Important: hiking boots, water and headgear. 9 am-12 pm, meeting point at the entrance of the Conservatoire, Plage de Gigaro. Registration at the Tourist Office: 04 94 55 12 12. www.lacroixvalmertourisme.com

23 - 26 OCTOBER JUAN-LES-PINS "fesTival Jammin' Juan" 27 bands and about a hundred musicians invite you to four days of jazz. Palais des Congrès. jammin.jazzajuan.com

26 OCTOBER NICE sTing “mY songs” Sting will perform his most famous hits from his time with the group The Police to his solo career and his 16 Grammy Awards. Palais Nikaia, 8 pm.

1 - 30 NOVEMBER NICE fesTival "c'esT pas classique" The 14th edition of the festival at the Palais Acropolis promises a programme of classical music in a special way. www.cpasclassique.departe ment06.fr

2 - 3 NOVEMBER ISOLA "fêTe Des châTaignes" The inhabitants of the village of Isola invite you to the traditional chestnut festival. Ball on the evening of 2 November. www.isola2000.com

2 - 3 NOVEMBER ANTIBES "salon Du sucre eT Du chocolaT" Sweet and chocolaty temptations are displayed by the confectioners and compete against each other. Espaces du Fort Carré. www.antibesjuanlespins.com

3 NOVEMBER NICE 12Th maraThon nicecannes Start on the Promenade des Anglais, arrival on the red carpet in Cannes. Various routes: Marathon, 20 km, relays of 2, 4, 5 or 6 runners. 13,000 participants are expected. www.marathonicecannes06.com

28 NOV. - 7 DEC. NICE "manca fesTival" For the fourth time, the festival offers a colourful repertoire of modern music in different places of the city. www.cirm-manca.org

29 NOV. – 15 DEC. CANNES "fesTival De Dance" 21 cultural centres in Cannes and

the whole department present together a top-class international dance programme (see also p. 69). www.festivaldedansecannes.com

29 NOV. - 2 DEC. SAINT-RAPHAËL 26Th salon Du gourmanD This gathering will bring food lovers from all over the world to share their appetite for good food and rediscover home produce, key to all good recipes.

29 NOV. - 23 FEB. NICE "nice, Baie Des lumières" A light installation consisting of over 550 Chinese lanterns illuminates the Parc Phoenix as soon as darkness falls. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, tickets €17/12 euros. www.baiedeslumieres.com

6 DECEMBER GRIMAUD "fêTe De la lumière" With a torch hike and a fire show, hot chocolate, mulled wine and roasted chestnuts, the Christmas season begins. From 6 p.m. on the Place Vieille, free admission. www.grimaud-provence.com

7 – 9 DECEMBER NICE smarT ciTY conference The Safe and Smart City conference organised by the EU Leadership Network meets to discuss “A better life, Safer world, and shared values.” Palais de la Méditeranée www.safeandsmartcity.org

20 DECEMBER CANNES "Brahms + BeeThoven" Classical and romantic music will be played by the Cannes Orchestra. 20.30, Théâtre Croisette, Hôtel JW Marriott. www.orchestre-cannes.com

3 JANUARY CANNES "concerT Du nouvel an" The Cannes Orchestra heralds the year 2020 with ball music. 8.30 pm, Palais des Festivals et des Congrés, Théâtre Debussy. www.orchestre-cannes.com

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EXHIBITIONS unTil 15 ocToBer LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE "szczesnY" A voyage of discovery in the footsteps of the German artist Stefan Szczesny, with paintings, sculptures and photographs scattered throughout the village. Day & night in Les Baux-deProvence, free admission.

UNTIL 27 OCTOBER CANNES "l'homme au masque De fer. un secreT D'ÉTaT." Exhibition about the truth behind the legend of the mysterious prisoner "Eustache Dauger", the man with the iron mask. Musée de la Mer. www.cannes.com

UNTIL 28 OCTOBER NICE clÉmenT cogiTore Video art and sculptures combine to create unique works. Musée Marc Chagall, 10 am to 6 pm, from November to 5 pm. www.musees-nationauxalpesmaritimes.fr

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN "renconTres en BorD De mer" Back to life at the beginning of the 19th century, the exhibition takes place in the historic villas of the "Cap Moderne". Open Wed to Sun from 10 to 12.30 and 13.45 to 17.30. www.capmoderne.com

Open from 10 to 12.15 and from 2 to 5 pm, closed on Tuesdays. www.musees-nationauxalpesmaritimes.fr/picasso

UNTIL 10 NOVEMBER NICE "hippolYTe henTgen - le Bikini invisiBle" Lina Hentgen and Gaëlle Hippolyte show their art on canvases, in films, sculptures and installations. MAMAC, gallery contemporaine. www.mamac-nice.org

UNTIL 17 NOVEMBER SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE "Joan miró: au-DelÀ De la peinTure. A tribute to Joan Miró with more than 200 works, including a collection of unpublished gouaches. Fondation Maeght. www.fondation-maeght.com

UNTIL 6 DECEMBER NICE "10 Years of archaeologY" Countless archaeological discoveries in the surroundings and off the coast of Nice are presented. MAMAC. www.mamac-nice.org

UNTIL 15 DECEMBER MARS ROPE "la phoTographie marseille" More than 30 different events around photography exhibitions & workshops in the whole city. www.laphotographiemarseille.com

UNTIL 3 NOVEMBER LE CANNET “De l'impressionnisme À BonnarD eT picasso” The Bonnard Museum displays works from one of the world's most renowned private collections, the Nahmad Collection: great artists from Monet to Picasso to Modigliani. www.museebonnard.fr

monaco

UNTIL 4 NOVEMBER

13 OCTOBER

VALLAURIS "Biennial inTernaTionale De cÉramique conTemporaine" The Picasso National Museum displays contemporary ceramics.

"fanTasia" Cinema concert with live music of the Philharmonic Orchestra MonteCarlo to parts of the Disney film "Fantasia". 3 pm, Grimaldi Forum. www.opmc.mc

11 - 13 OCTOBER "la rouTe Du goûT" The festival about sustainable and healthy nutrition of the Association Bio Chef Global Spirit under star chef Paolo Sari. Quai Antoine 1er. www.thebiochef-sari.com

EVENTS

18 OCTOBER

3 NOVEMBER

"rÉciTal nikolaï luganskY" The Russian pianist plays Chopin and Rachmaninov and more. 8.30 pm. Auditorium Rainier III. www.opmc.mc

“miracles” Under the direction of kazuki Yamada, the choir of the Birmingham Symphony Orchestra will sing Mendelssohn. 6 pm. Auditorium Rainier III. www.opmc.mc

18 - 28 OCTOBER okToBerfesT In the middle of Monaco, beer and Bavarian traditional costumes create an Oktoberfest atmosphere. Café de Paris. +377 98 06 76 23

18 OCT. - 19 NOV. "foire aTTracTions De monaco" Large fairground with several amusement rides. At the harbour. www.foire-attractionsmonaco.com

23 OCTOBER BaskeTBall eurocup The basketball team AS Monaco Roca Team competes against Ratiopharm Ulm in the European competition. 6.45 pm, Salle Gaston Médecin. www.asmonaco.basketball

23 - 27 OCTOBER e-rallY monTe-carlo Four-day rally in which only electric or hydrogen cars are permitted. The route leads through Valence in the department of Drôme, among other places. Starting point: Champs de Mars. www.acm.mc

6 - 7 NOVEMBER "fesTival for The earTh" The festival wants to promote a responsible attitude towards our environment in an artistic way. Musée océanographique de Monaco, 10 am to 6 pm. www.festivalfortheearth.com

10 NOVEMBER Jenifer The dazzling and audienceoriented singer makes a stop in Monaco with her tour "Une Nouvelle Page 2". Espace Léo Ferré, 6 pm. www.espaceleoferre.mc

16 NOV. - 1 DEC. "monTe carlo Jazz fesTival” Jazz music of all colours can be heard in Monaco. Opéra Garnier de Monte-Carlo. www.montecarlosbm.com

19 NOVEMBER naTional DaY The national holiday is celebrated with a big fireworks display. Port de Monaco, after nightfall. www.mairie.mc

25 OCTOBER

1 DECEMBER

Broken Back The young artist is one of the upand-coming stars of the pop, rock and electro scene. Espace Léo Ferré, 8.30 pm. www.espaceleoferre.mc

"êTre... en Devenir" Beethoven's Concerto for Violin and Orchestra opus 61 will be performed by German star violinist Frank Peter Zimmermann and the Monaco Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by kazuki Yamada. 6 pm, Auditorium Rainier III. www.opmc.mc

26 - 27 OCTOBER "salon Du vinTage" Homage to karl Lagerfeld. In addition designer furniture, decoration, fashion and street food. Chapiteau de l'espace Fontvieille, 10 am to 7 pm, admission 7 euros. www.salonduvintage.com

6 DEC.- 5 JAN. "village De noël" The large Christmas market creates an Advent atmosphere even after Christmas Eve. Port Hercule. www.mairie.mc ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

riviera

EVENTS

29 DECEMBER

UNTIL 1 JANUARY

27 OCTOBER

10 NOVEMBER

"gala De fin D'annÉe" The year-end concert of the Philharmonic Orchestra is dedicated to musicals from Broadway and Hollywood. 6 pm. Auditorium Rainier III. www.opmc.mc

"l'oDYssÉe Des TorTues mariTines" In the Oceanographic Museum visitors can follow the life of the turtles in the great oceans. Open daily from 10 am to 6 pm. www.musee.oceano.org

FINAL LIGURE "runrivierarun half maraThon" Eighth edition of the international half marathon from Finale Ligure (Varigotti - Loc. Malpasso) to Loano (Marina di Loano). www.runrivierarun.com

ALBENGA "fesTa Di san marTino" Folk festival in honour of Saint Martin. Tasting of typical products and wines, roasted chestnuts, polenta and much more. From 9 am in the Old Town. www.scoprialbenga.it

16- 26 JANUARY "le fesTival inTernaTional Du cirque De monTe-carlo" For the 44th time the circus festival brings together the best artists and the funniest clowns for a unique show. Chapiteau de Fontvieille. www.montecarlofestival.mc

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 3 NOVEMBER "omBre D'azur, Transparence" The New National Museum of Monaco presents works by Ettore Spaletti. Villa Paloma, 10 am- 6 pm. www.nmnm.mc

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

iTalY 11 - 13 OCTOBER LEVANTO "sapori verTicali" The coast of La Spezia becomes a land of milk and honey: for three days it's all about the Ligurian food culture with all its delicious specialities. www.visitlevanto.it

19 - 20 OCTOBER FINAL LIGURE "casTagnaTa" Chestnut festival in Piazza di Spagna with the folklore chapel "Rumpe e Streppa". www.turismo.comunefinaleli gure.it

2 NOVEMBER SANREMO "cenerenTola" Performance of Cinderella by the Ballet of Milan. 8.30 pm at the Teatro Ariston, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 212. www.aristonsanremo.com

8 - 10 NOVEMBER IMPERIA "olioliva" Big festival around the olive oil from the valleys of Imperia, tastings of typical recipes and local specialities. In the old town. www.sagritaly.com

16 NOVEMBER GENOA "cenTral europe in musica" Concert: Concerto n. 2 in la maggiore for piano and orchestra works by Franz Liszt and Sinfonia n. 5 in do diesis minore by Gustav Mahler. 8.30 p.m., Teatro Carlo Felice. www.carlofelicegenova.it

8 DECEMBER SANREMO 3rD sanremo maraThon with 42,195 kilometers of cycle path along the Ligurian coast. Also a 10k and family run. www.sanremomarathon.it

riviera

COMMUNITY

Butts for beer Stars’n’Bars oﬀer to get cigarette butts oﬀ the ground By NICOLE RUSKELL

ate Powers, co-founder of Stars’n’Bars restaurant in Monaco has always been committed to the environment. For many years, she has worked with her staff, the city, the Princely government and numerous organisations not only to clean up the port, the beach and the country, but also to raise awareness of climate change and the detrimental effect of plastic waste. Now, she has set her sights on cigarette butts, which are proving to be more detrimental than plastic bottles and straws. They may be small, but they are tightly packed plastic fibres loaded with toxic chemicals like formaldehyde and nicotine. Smokers may think nothing of tossing the mégot onto the sidewalk or out of the car window, but their small size makes it easy towash down storm drains and into the sea. Once soaked with water, the fibres expand and separate, resembling little critters that fish mistake for food. Even birds pick up butts and feed them to their babies. Inspired by a Facebook post by a bar in ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

Barcelona, kate had Stars’n’Bars offer a free glass of beer to anyone who brought in a glass of cigarette butts collected from the ground. kate told Riviera Insider that she wasn’t sure how people would respond, but when we spoke in early September, she was pleasantly surprised at the response on social media. “Our Facebook post reached 2,500 people and was shared 1,800 times,” she said. In the first weeks of the offer, they had almost 40 people bringing in used butts, but she said it was more popular with children, who get a free coke. How do they know if someone doesn’t just bring in their own butts from home? “It’s pretty obvious when all the butts are the same length and brand.” Only one person seems to have tried to scam the system, so far. For the moment, there no plans to end the offer; kate prefers to keep the chatter going to spread the word about how bad butts are for the sea. If you would like to get some free beer for doing a good deed, go pick up some butts! 

The european Week for Waste reduction (eWWr) is the biggest europe-wide initiative promoting a week-long implementation of awareness raising actions about sustainable resource and waste management. The eWWr addresses the “3rs”: reduce waste, reuse products, recycle material. Monaco is taking part in this year’s eWWr from 16 – 24 November with massive cleanups, and a mini-festival on the weekend. The Princely government, the Yacht Club de Monaco, the Fondation de Prince Albert II and local schools will all partake in events to educate people on how to reduce waste. The festival weekend will include a 3-day regatta with special visitors from China and on Sunday, Stars’n’Bars in Port Hercules will host a number of activities for the family.

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COMMUNITY

Giving thanks Where to celebrate Thanksgiving By NICOLE RUSKELL

or many Americans, Thanksgiving is the preferred holiday of the year. When living abroad, the arrival of cool days and changing leaves brings out nostalgia for pumpkin flavoured treats and a longing for feasting around a table with lots of friends and a giant roasted turkey. It’s a holiday that is ingrained in the American psyche and for this reason, wherever American expats dwell, there is bound to be a Thanksgiving celebration. The traditional dishes vary by region, and each person could argue their favourites but the main characters are golden turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. Good hearty food mixed with free-flowing wine, good conversation and a theme of gratitude makes for a wonderful experience. This year, the so-called turkey day falls on 28 November (the fourth Thursday of the month) and there are plenty of options to celebrate across the Côte d’Azur and Provence. Many bars and restaurants have special menus for

easing traﬃc

the day, including the Hard Rock Café in Nice, Stars’n’Bars in Monaco, La Serviette Blanche in Cannes and even MaNolan’s pubs. International clubs also host their own parties, so if you are looking for a place to celebrate, start with an American club or association: -The American Club of the Riviera hosts a lavish and elegant luncheon in the Salle Belle Epoque at the Hermitage in Monaco. www.americanclubriviera.com -Monaco USA takes over the Star Deck on the top floor of Stars’n’Bars in Port Hercule. www.monacousa.org

-Democrats Abroad hosts an annual potluck dinner at the Holy Trinity Church Hall in Nice. They provide the turkey and entry is free as long as you bring a dish, but it’s limited to 35 people. www.democratsabroad.org -Internations recently started hosting a Thanksgiving dinner in Cannes. www.internations.org -The Provence Post by Julie Mautner, an American living in Provence does a great job of rounding up Thanksgiving celebrations in Marseille and throughout Provence.  www.theprovencepost.blogspot.com

goal of reducing the number of cars passing through La Turbie and easing traffic on both the A500 motorway and the Monaco tunnel. This 6.06 million euro land use planning operation is expected for the end of 2020 and is co-

financed by the Government of Monaco, the Alpes-Maritimes Departmental Council, the Communauté d'Agglomération de la Riviera Française and the Escota/VINCI Autoroutes Network. 

New A8 exit approved for Beausoleil n Tuesday 10 September 2019, Serge Telle, Minister of State of the Principality, Charles Ange Ginesy, President of the Alpes-Maritimes Departmental Council, Jean-Claude Guibal, President of the Communauté d'Agglomération de la Riviera Française and Blaise Rapior, General Manager of VINCI Autoroutes' ESCOTA network, signed the financing agreement for the construction of the new ramp for the Beausoleil quarter interchange. This exit ramp, which will take one year to complete, will create a new service road providing access to the Principality, with the main

From left to right: Jean-Claude Guibal, President of the Communauté d'Agglomération de la Riviera Française; Charles Ange Ginesy, President of the Conseil Départemental des Alpes-Maritimes; Serge Telle, Minister of State of the Principality and Blaise Rapior, General Manager of VINCI Autoroutes' ESCOTA network Direction © Direction

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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COMMUNITY

Operation Dragoon 75th Anniversary of the Allied landing in Provence By ALExA BOUHELIER-RUELLE & NICOLE RUSKELL

On Thursday, 15 august, French President emmanuel Macron participated in the commemorations of the 75th anniversary of the allied landing ofProvence. an entire week was booked in the presidential agenda to stop in several villages and towns along the route liberated by the allies during World War ii.

he military goal behind the Allied landing of Provence was to outflank German troops based in the French Riviera, in order to alleviate Normandy’s front where soldiers had landed two weeks before. This commemoration in Saint Raphaël falls within the series of events organised by the government since last autumn - with the 100th anniversary of the Armistice last November and the 75th anniversary of the Normandy landing in June. la motte Technically, commemorations began on the 14 August at 6 pm in La Motte, which was the first village to be liberated by the Allies. This ceremony was presided over by Geneviève Darrieussecq, Secretary of State to the Minister of Armies. She was in La Motte to pay tribute to the Allies parachutists of the Rugby Force, the French resistance, American and British soldiers. At 9 pm, in Rayol Canadel, another ceremony was organised to remember African Commandos, this time presided by Draguignan’s vice-prefect, Eric de Wispelaere.

saint raphaël President Macron and former President Nicolas Sarkozy arrived in Saint Raphaël on the 15 August for the national ceremony. Held at the Boulouris Necropolis, where 464 fallen French soldiers rest, these events also recognize the participation of a large portion of the secondary French army. A tribute was led by President Macron, alongside veterans, former Ivorian president Alassane Ouattara, former Guinean president Alpha Condé and former French president Nicolas Sarkozy. Together, they paid tribute to the 450,000 soldiers who were part of the Allied landing. During military presentations, David Diop, who won the high school Goncourt Prize in 2018, read a text, followed by a veteran’s testimony read by the winner of France’s annual High School Resistance and Depor tation Academic Award, 2018. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

The commandos d’afriques Traditionally, Allied landing commemorations are also a way to remember the contribution of soldiers from former French colonies in the town’s liberation. A fairly unknown aspect is that there were around 260,000 soldiers in the first French army, led by General Lattre de Tassigny, which was mostly composed of soldiers coming from North and Sub-Saharan Africa. The ‘Commandos d’Afriques’ were actually the very first soldiers to make land at Cap Nègre, allowing for the Allied Forces to begin marching. Draguignan The following day, 16 August, the final official ceremony with President Macron took place in Draguignan, to celebrate the courage of the Resistance fighters and the American troops in the hard-fought liberation of the city. Bormes-les-mimosas Before returning to Paris, however, Macron attended the liberation celebration in Bormes-les-Mimosas, where Mayor Francois Arizzi awarded Macron the Medal of the City. The president and his wife then went out into the crowd and Macron spoke of the need and the duty for French people

Invasion of Southern France, August 1944. Allied troops rolling into a liberated town in Southern France receive enthusiastic greetings from French patriots. Photographed by crewmember of USS Catoctin (AGC 5), 20 August 1944. Official U.S. Navy Photograph (2014/5/22). © USN

to remember “those men and women who risked it all for liberty.” Further celebrations took place in each city and village throughout the region, bittersweet emotions when remembering the pain, destruction and sacrifice, but also the relief and elation of liberation. vallauris and cannes One of the final days of battle in the region was to liberate Cannes. The 24th of August started with celebrations in Vallauris, which made its way through Golfe-Juan and then onto Cannes for a parade in the afternoon. The area was filled with people in costume or just dressed in the 1940’s style and US Army jeeps and motorcycles cruised through the streets. After a large fireworks show, the grand kiosk on the Allée de la Liberté Charles de Gaulle transported passers-by with sounds from Memory Big Band, a tribute to the Glen Miller Orchestra. victory In only 13 days, Operation Dragoon was considered a success. General de Gaulle stated: “Today, D+13, in the sector of my army, there is no German left other than dead or captive.” The South of France was liberated. 

Part of the invasion fleet of "Operation Dragoon", the invasion of Southern France, off the French Mediterranean coast, circa in August 1944. U.S. Navy All Hands magazine, February 1957, p. 61. © USN

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CHRISTMAS

A Provencal Christmas 85 years of Santons by Maison Fouque By ALExA BOUHELIEReach year, santons make up a major part of the Christmas celebrations in Provence. Santons are so anchored in tradition that one can almost forget where they came from in the ﬁrst place, who created them and why. riviera insider went behind the scenes to discover what these legends are made of, in one of the most famous santon workshops in the world: Maison Fouque in aix-en-Provence.

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

n French, the word “santon” comes from the Provençal term “antoun” which means small saint. Santons are small clay figurines, originally representing Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the whole manger with the angels, the Three kings and many more characters added by the Provençal tradition through the years. Maison Fouque, labelled “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant,” or Living Heritage Company, is a family business that has been creating thousands of traditional santons each year since 1934. Riviera Insider speaks with Mireille Fouque, third generation owner of of the famous atelier: “It’s a family story. My grandfather created the workshop in order to feed his children. He was a painter and my grandmother died young, so he had to care for his children alone. Then in 1952 my father created new pieces. The most famous one is still the Berger Coup de Mistral. And in 1984, I took the lead of the Maison and I develop the international part of the family business. But we still create santons the same way

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my grandfather did 85 years ago.” Indeed, artists are busy year-round creating intricate, handmade santons in their Aix-enProvence workshop. Today, santons are known outside of Provence and they ship to collectors in New York, Tokyo, Rome, Geneva and Berlin. Last year, Monseigneur Christophe Dufour, Archbishop of Aix-enProvence and Arles, gifted the famous figurine ‘Coup de Mistral’ to Pope Francis I. The famous santon was then placed in the Vatican’s manger scene. “Our team also created a very special manger for the Sainte-Rita church in Nice. It was composed of 40 of the rarest figurines from 30 to 50 cm high. It took a year to create such a manger and pieces like those are not shipped – people have to come to our workshop in Aix-en-Provence if they want one. They are very special.” Celebrating its 85th anniversary this year, Maison Fouque has four generations in the

fire specTacle Christmas in Valbonne n 2019 Valbonne celebrates its 500th anniversary, and at the end of this festive year, there will be another grand demonstration with Christmas fire. On the last days before Christmas, fire and art unite to create a great spectacle.

CHRISTMAS

family workshop. Each of them have created new figurines to the 1,800 characters already existing in the largest santon collection in the world. All year round, artists work to produce these wonders of art and craft, resulting in perfect

figurines to the smallest details: creases in garments, accessories, facial expressions, posture – nothing is left to chance. “We produce santons all year round so when Christmas comes we are ready to ship orders all over the world,” explains Mireille. Just like the last 15 years, Maison Fouque will attend the Foire aux Santons in Mouans-Sartoux, organised from November to December. But before that, the Maison will have shipped thousands of santons to shops and collectors around the globe. For collectors, the family creates new and exclusive santons each year to add their growing collection. This year, for their 85th anniversary, Mireille and her son created together two new pieces: La Bugadière et Théodore le Berger. Don’t miss these new pieces and many more at the Santon Festival in MouansSartoux, where you can see first-hand the work of traditional Provençal art. 

From 16 to 18 December, the Garbejaïre district will also be celebrating50 years of Sophia-Antipolis. On the Place Méjane there will be a programme for children and families, in the evening "Les Mineurs" will present fire art in steampunk style. From 19 December, the shows will continue in the old town of Valbonne, from 21 to 24 December, from 10 am to 6 pm every day. Craftsmen will display their forging, glassblowing and pottery skills at the traditional Christmas market.  You can find more information about the Christmas festivities on the Valbonne website: www.ville-valbonne.fr ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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COMMUNITY

Club Vivanova 2020 Luxury Lifestyle Charity Gala

he Sixth Annual Edition of this glamorous gala will feature HIGH ON HEELS, the Ultimate Live Music Experience. The evening will feature a Premier Cru Champagne aperitif at the Galerie Cristal; presentations & gourmet wine dinner with live entertainment; international Haute Couture fashion show; live charity auction with VIP partners; High On Heels Live music experience; and a Vodka23 after party with live dancers and DJ. Charity benefits Chances for Children and TAF The Animal Fund, to which Club Vivanova has raised €125,000 to date. 2020 Luxury Lifestyle Gala Saturday 4 April 2020, at 7 pm. Salle d’Or Ballroom, Fairmont Monte Carlo Dress code: Black tie formal Tickets and Information: www.clubvivanova-luxurygala.com "We only achieve great things in life by giving back and our gala is being organised to appreciate the best things in life offering attendees the chance to donate to worthy, local and life-changing charities." -Club Vivanova Founder, Bradley Mitton 

L’Orangerie takes gold The Monegasque liquor dazzles in China

hat does the orange liqueur made in Monaco have to do with the president of China? Well, during the history-making visit from President Xi Jing Ping earlier this year, The Princely couple gifted the Chinese head of state a bottle of l’Orangerie, made entirely in Monaco from oranges grown on Monegasque territory. And that was that. Flash forward several months and the most prestigious spirit awards in Asia, the China Wine & Spirit Awards, bestows L’Orangerie with a double gold medal for the quality of the product. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

A decision reached with the consensus of 100 judges. Philip Culazzo, the founder of the distillery, was clearly thrilled with the news. He told Riviera Insider that it was a great honour and would love to open up to the Chinese market. The small ‘Made in Monaco’ company currently produces 10,000 bottles per year, an impressive

amount for the Principality. The honour is clearly a boon for the business, as breaking into the Asian market is no small feat for a small independent distiller. Only two years into his business, he clearly has the right recipe, finding a balance between bitterness from fermented orange juice and the maceration of the peels with the sweetness one expects in a liqueur similar to Limoncello. Philip has plans of increasing production with the acquisition of more trees in the area. However, the jury members of the Spirit Awards represent a market share of 75 million bottles, and he tells us that he has no intention of jeopardising the quality of the product to meet mass-production numbers. For now, L’Orangerie is happy with their success and will be very busy with the new harvest this winter. They continue to believe strongly in their credo: "To be an exceptional product, but with a democratic price." But will that change once Asia buys up all the bottles? Let’s hope not! 

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60x45 mm ad for â&#x201A;Ź250 The ad runs for two months. If you purchase a yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth of ads (6 issues), we will provide a small feature on your busines. ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

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COMMUNITY riviera

expaT focus: JuDY nash

Founder PETRA HALL p.hall@riviera-press.fr

my favourite place along the Riviera is Old Town of Antibes, which is where I call home….it has a special and local village feeling. I love the beach and eating with my feet in the sand. There are so many historic hilltop villages and a wealth of history from the Greeks, Romans, and right through to today. The architecture is awe-inspiring! It seems that every little village you come across from Provence to Italy (and beyond) have beautiful properties with enormous character.

how was it adjusting to the language?

udy Nash is originally J from Shaker Heights, Ohio, but lived and worked across the US until moved to Antibes at 40. Since then, she has submerged herself in French culture, learning art and language and…food. Volunteering and community service has always been an important part of her life in the States, so she naturally gravitated to social clubs here in the Riviera. For the last seven years Judy has been on the Board of Directors for the American Club of the Rivier since 2013. She is currently the club’s Vice President, but has also served as the Treasurer and Social Media Governor. We asked Judy about life of the Côte d’Azur and some Insider tips for newcomers.

What brought you to the riviera? I originally came to the South of France for just a few years, due to a corporate job transfer for my ex-husband. As I was unable to work for the first 6 years of living here, I became a “student of French culture” by learning the language, how to oil paint, play the piano and how to make pottery pieces…to this day, I still take a weekly Pottery Course. By

submerging myself into the French way of Life, I fell in love with this country and now call it home.

What do you do for work? I love my job of property management because I welcome guests to a beautiful seaside apartment along the Ramparts in Antibes. The clientele is mostly American, so I find comfort in helping them get the most out of their vacation because I remember how “foreign” this place can feel.

What's your favourite thing about living here? I love meeting different people from all over the world and even when I'm working, I feel like I’m on holiday. The Côte d’Azur has a special and particular rhythm of its own….it’s pure magic and best when embraced. I love the beautiful blue skies and completely understand why the Master painters flocked here for that special light!

What are your favourite places in the region? Obviously there are the famous and well known places such as Cannes, Monaco and Nice, but

ocToBer / novemBer / DecemBer 2019

You’ve heard the saying “it’s hard to teach an old dog new tricks”, well, learning a language at age 40 was not easy. Fortunately, I studied Spanish at University, so somewhere in my brain I understood the concept of a language besides English, so I have been able to master enough of the language. Living day-to-day speaking French is not difficult for me, however, at first, it seemed like an impossible task.

What was the most surprising thing about life in france? That shops close during the lunch hour and basically whenever the owner/worker chooses not to be open for business. After 13 years, this concept still gets me. I often find myself wanting to stop by the dry cleaners during the lunch hour, but have to remind myself, they will be closed!

Do you have any insider tips for a newcomer? Best tip is to learn the language as best you can. And if you find yourself frustrated, just breathe... the French have a certain style of dealing with things in regards to utilities, banks, etc. Oonce you accept this way of life, which might mean things take 2-3 or more attempts to sort out, then you’ll be much more relaxed! Everything works out in the end, just not usually in a “New York minute.” 

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