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www.rivieratimes.com Issue 116 - November 2011 2.50 e

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Monte Carlo Jazz Festival

Decoration special

Infrastructure boom

Billions invested

Nice, a model city Over the next decade, the Riviera will become N one of the most liveable regions in Europe

In 2016, Saint Augustin will become the main station for four transport networks, including the new fast train LGV and an extended tramline

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rom new hospitals and transport networks, to elaborate ports and shopping centres, investment in the Riviera is at an all-time high. Some projects won't be realised until next decade, others, like the new tram network in Nice, are a lot sooner. The end result will be a region that is not only famed for its beauty and cultural charm, but one that also offers the vital infrastructure needed for com-

fortable living - health, transport, and recreation. The new Saint Augustin station (pictured above) will be the central hub for an elaborate new transport network that will connect the east of Nice, the centre and the west, with the airport and the Var valley. By 2025, there will be three state-of-the-art hospitals within a range of about 60 kilometres. Specialist centres, like urology, are vital for an ageing population, and this

investment in health will no doubt boost the region's attractiveness as a retirement location. Meanwhile, the local economy survives on tourism and our big spenders often arrive by sea, so it only makes sense that there is also expenditure in this infrastructure. New or renovated ports are planned all along the coast, strengthening our position as a luxury destination. In addition to our main project highlights on pages

four and five this month, are: the stylish Stade de Nice (Olympic stadium), a new chairlift in Grasse, a 5-star hotel in Menton as well as a contemporary new museum (recently opened), a Conservatoire de Musique in Aix-enProvence, a new vehicle tunnel in Toulon, a Juan-lesPins congress centre, a fastbus lane from Cannes to Mandelieu-La Napoule, and a new Cultural Centre for Nice. Cassandra Tanti Continued page 4

ice can now be identified as a safe city! declared Mayor Christian Estrosi at a press conference in October, "I am happy to announce that 'a healthy mind in a healthy body' describes the relationship between the municipal police and Nice." According to figures by the local government, Nice welcomed five million visitors this year, 60 per cent of those in the summer months. There were 20,000 to 40,000 people on the streets of Vieux Nice every night, and "aucun incident n'a ĂŠtĂŠ Ă deplorer", or "not one regrettable incident was reported," announced Estrosi. There were also more people for the police to protect this year - seven per cent more - and that was the duty of some 240 officers deployed each day during summer. There were "teams patrolling the streets day and night, dogs on patrol until 6am, police on horse back patrolling the seafront, and security on public transport." Of course, there are two sides to the issue of crime what the figures say and what the people say. So, The Riviera Times decided to ask the Anglophone community how safe it felt in Nice. The results are interesting, to say the least. Continued page 6

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WELCOME NOVEMBER 2011

Editorial

Decoration Special

The Côte enjoyed a beautiful October

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Peter Rigby gives MYS 9/10

One of the most liveable r egions in Eur ope

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As the Cannes G20 and ‘Occupy Wall Street’ protests have showed, there is a phenomenon growing among the people. Amid global economic uncertainty and tough austerity measures, anti-capitalist believers have been given a reason to get angry. But I think all this pointing of fingers at large, multi-national corporations is slightly hypocritical. Where does personal responsibility come into this? Doesn't a lot of this concentration of wealth stem from consumerism and materialism? According to the United Nations, the 20% of the world's people in the highest-income countries consume around 80 per cent of the world's food, energy and paper, and own most of the telephone lines and vehicle fleet. There are two sides to consumerism: the people who buy, and the companies who happily respond to demand. While wanting to buy things to make our lives a little easier is only natural, at this time of enlightenment we must also question how our behaviour is shaping the world and who we are supporting in our purchases. According to a new American study by Civano Living, Ypartnership and American LIVES, baby boomers are already rethinking their values. The bad economy, bleak outlook and socio-economic imbalance are prompting a reaction that it says will have a wide-ranging impact on a number of consumer categories. Perhaps generations X and Y should be taking a leaf out of their book, and maybe then we can all hold our heads up high when we take to the streets of the Côte d’Azur in protest.


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NOVEMBER 2011

Infrastructure boom on the Riviera Transport

New shopping centres Two new major shopping centres will be constructed east of Nice. The largest, to be built in Cagnes sur Mer, will resemble an American mall, with leisure facilities and a large number of retail stores. It will cost 300 million euros and create up to 1,000 new jobs. Close by, in VilleneuveLoubet, will be a new 3,700 square metre shopping centre. The complex will lie at the heart of the famous Marina Baie des Anges in Les Maurettes, where more than 2,700 hotels and restaurants already exist. Meanwhile, an extension of the existing Cap 3000 is planned. Parking facilities will be relocated towards the seafront, and additional stores will be built on top of the current parking lots.

Nice - Villefranche tunnel The construction of an underground tunnel connecting Nice to Villefranchesur-Mer was revealed in March this year. The tunnel will pass underneath MontBoron and provide easier road access for vehicles travelling west of Nice. Surveys, road pilot studies and investigations are due to be completed by 2015 and construction is expected to begin the following year. The 2,850-metre-long tunnel will start at Pont Michel in Nice and emerge in the Malariba Valley on the Basse Corniche, following the coast to the east of Villefranche-sur-Mer. The 150 million euro project is due by 2018.

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ice is on the fast track to becoming a 'green city', thanks to a host of new transport initiatives, largely led by city mayor Christian Estrosi. The future plans are bold, costly and disruptive, but eventually this region will provide some of the most environmentally friendly transport in Europe. Here's how it will all come together: In 2016, Saint Augustin will be inaugurated as a central station, responsible for servicing an extensive tram, train and bus network for Nice and surrounding areas. The multi-functional site will be constructed at the current Saint Augustin train station, aiding transport from the north to the south of Nice, and west along the coast to the airport and the Var valley. Saint Augustin will play a key role in plans to provide transport facilities for 10 million passengers annually by 2023, and 17 million by 2030. It will serve as the central station for four main transport networks: trams, buses, national and regional trains, and ultimately the LGV - the latest highspeed trainline which was introduced to France in 2009. It will also provide regular transport to

the Nice Côte d'Azur airport, accommodating the 10 million passengers who fly to and from France's second biggest airport each year. But it is not only transport users who will benefit from the elaborate network. The station will serve an important purpose to the developing business area of Grand Arénas, with regular regional

will spread across 80,000 to 100,000 square metres of land, will commence around 2013 provided all funding is agreed to. By 2016, 11,000 square metres of development is expected to be up and running, with 13 stations included on the route. Nice Tramline After the success of Tramline 1 - one of the largest infrastructure projects in Europe, concrete plans have been confirmed for the next phase -

Augustin station. By the end of 2012, works will begin on the underground stations and the tunnel. Come mid 2014, most of the ground level construction will take place with all trams and stations completed by the end of 2014. The system should be in operation by 2017 if all goes to plan. In 2020, Tramline 3 could be up-and-running, servicing 7 kilometres from Saint Augustin to Lingostière in the

and national transport links passing through the district. Surrounding neighbourhoods will also receive an economic boost, as the station provides links to international cities, creating masses of new commuters and revenue. Works on the project, which

Tramline 2. It will run from the port, westwards to the Arénas business district to Nice Côte d'Azur airport. With 19 stations over 11.3 km, the ‘Var Valley line’ will directly serve the two terminals of Nice Côte d'Azur Airport as well as the future Saint-

Plaine du Var. Connections will be possible with Nice city centre, the Chemins de Fer de Provence line and the SNCF network. It will include 13 stations in addition to TGV links to Marseille and Paris.

Ports

Sophia-Antipolis aqua park Sophia-Antipolis will welcome a new state-of-the-art swimming complex next year: the Complexe Aquatique Communautaire. This 15million euro development will boast a 25-metre outdoor competition pool with a stadium equipped to seat 300 spectators. Inside the complex will be a 15 metre training pool with two spas and a Jacuzzi. Visitors will be able to indulge in luxury Turkish baths, spa and sauna facilities as well as a sunbed room. There's even a restaurant for people left feeling a little peckish after a day of indulgence.

Cala del Forte in Ventimiglia will provide a major economic boost to the Italian border city, improving tourism and infrastructure

Ventimiglia

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he Italian border-city of Ventimiglia will receive a major economic boost on the back of an elaborate new port construction. Cala del Forte will be the first Italian harbour close enough to rival those in the

French Riviera and Monaco. Funded by Gruppo Cozzi Parodi, the project will also involve major infrastructure development along the seaside. "Ventimiglia was chosen because it is the gateway to Italy," said Communications and Marketing Director of Gruppo Cozzi Parodi, Giuseppe Dosio. "Strategi-

cally, it is very close to Monaco and the French Riviera. The port will be ideal for luxury yachts and cruise ships," he added. Cala del Forte will accommodate more than 300 marina berths with sizes from 8 to 50 metres. It will have a photovoltaic power system to produce electricity using solar panels and be constructed in a unique circular design. Lining the port will be a host of new restaurants, bars and retail stores, and it will all be connected to the old town of Ventimiglia via a vertical elevator system. The route will be divided into two sections, with an inclined elevator carrying passengers from the dock to a parking lot and public square, then a second vertical elevator travelling to Piazza Nizza in the old town. A new residence will also be established, housing 44 apartments with sea and harbour views. Cala del Forte expands upon the existing marina, which can currently hold only small boats. Gruppo Cozzi Parodi will also fund the creation of a new promenade to encom-

pass the entire port, and will connect to a path that leads to the Calandre beach. Nearby will be a new carpark and green areas, with a childrens' play area and a mini golf course. Finally, an amphitheatre will be built for events and meetings. According to Gruppo Cozzi Parodi, work on the seaside will finish by summer 2012, 2014 for the town, and 2015 for the port.

Côte d’Azur

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lans are in place for a new Cagnes-sur-Mer/SaintLaurent-du-Var port. The port, the maritime gateway to the eco-valley, would accommodate medium and large boats and involve the restructure of the current port at Saint-Laurent-du-Var. Meanwhile, a feasibility study is being conducted for the Beaulieu-sur-Mer port, with the idea of creating a dry dock, seasonal births for large boats in the outer harbour, a reorganisation of the general plan, and the creation of public facilities. Nice Côte d'Azur, the government body behind these port projects, has also applied for a

Odeon tower WHEN A multi-billion euro land extension project for Monaco was called off in March 2009, another project that had been on hold was given the green light - the Odeon Tower. Comprising twin towers of 47 and 49 floors on Avenue d'Annonciade, it will be the third tallest building on the French mainland behind the Montparnasse (210m) and Total tower (187m) in Paris. It will provide 50,000 square metres of office space and apartments and is due to be completed around 2014. The Odeon finally got off the ground in October 2009 after months of tortuous negotiations and discord over how many apartments will be allocated to the state (for Monegasque nationals), how many will be private (costing 10 to 20 million euros), and its height. The decision to go with the Odeon Tower came within months of the axe falling on a 15 hectare land extension off Portier (Grand Prix tunnel area), that would have added 275,000 square metres of surface area to Monaco.

New Monaco Yacht Club THE NEW Yacht Club de Monaco, to be built on reclaimed land from the harbour on the opposite side of Port Hercule to the current site, is well behind schedule due to "unforeseen" complications. Delivery is now due in May 2013. The building's total surface area will be 23,700 square metres compared to the current 5,000. The terraces alone will cover 4,100 square metres and future facilities include a pool, restaurant for members only, bar and exhibition area. It will also be home to the Société Nautique. Designed to reflect the slender lines of a cruise ship, the 90 million euro budget is being funded mainly by the state. Not surprisingly costs are creeping up, from an initial estimate of 66 million euros in 2006 to 112 million.


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REPORT NOVEMBER 2011

Health

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat development. The plan is to introduce an additional 60 berths and increase the size of around 30 existing positions. Authorities say this can be achieved without an extension to the waterways. It is hoped the project could also use innovations that reduce the port's energy footprint.

Fréjus The second phase of development of the new Port-Fréjus is well under way. The expansion towards Avenue de Provence, which began in 2009, is on course to strengthening the overall image of Fréjus as well as creating more berths and improving road traffic control. Utilising a unique canal design, the port will provide 300 appartments, 100 of which will be reserved at 'reasonable prices'. New parks and pedestrian zones will also be created. There are plans to build new apartments along the banks of the port, a new shopping complex, and two luxury hotels. The redevelopment is estimated to cost 28 million euros, and is due for completion in mid-2013.

research. With around 750,000 inhabitants in the PACA region, the current Pasteur and Saint Roch hospitals were unable to meet the growing demand for health services. Pasteur 2 will eventually provide a 'health-hub', reconstructing the current Pasteur hospital and dismissing the services of Saint Roch. The facility will provide 730 beds, the majority single rooms, and will treat 730,000 patients per year (excluding emergency). The first stage is due to be completed in mid2013, the rest by March 2014.

Cannes The final departments of the When completed, Nice’s Pasteur 2 will be the country’s largest hospital

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nvesting in health infrastructure has become a major interest of three local governments in the Riviera. Cannes has recently opened the doors of its new state-of-the-art hospital, construction of Nice's Pasteur 2 is well underway, and Monaco has finally agreed upon budget and technical details of its new Princess Grace Hospital.

Nice Pasteur 2 is an ambitious project costing more than 300 million euros. When completed, it will be the largest hospital in the country, with specialist cancer, cardiovascular, urology, neuroscience, and imaging centres. It will also involve development of university teaching facilities with an emphasis on applied

new Cannes Hospital Centre were opened to the public earlier this year. It was the final stage of an extensive building project that lasted several years, and involved a complete renovation of the existing hospital infrastructure and the creation of a new building. The hospital now provides 827 beds, 80 per cent of which are single rooms. There are five above-ground levels, 900 parking spaces, and around 1,800 staff including 1,095 nurses and 226 doctors. It has an operating budget of 132

London calling

that from November, there will be two flights per day to the English capital. Whether you are planning to visit friends and family in the United Kingdom, or simply wish to explore one of the greatest cities in the world, you can now travel direct in comfort and style,

arriving at Heathrow's Terminal 1 - the closest to central London and transport links into the city. Fares will be available for as little as 129 euros, and bmi customers will have a number of added bonuses on board the Airbus 319, including complimentary in-flight food

Despite the Monaco government pledging to reach a "nodeficit" budget by 2014 (see story page 9), the Principality's biggest project - the new hospital - will go ahead, with an estimated budget of 560 million euros. The project has already been scaled down from a 630 million euro design presented in May 2008, by a consortium that included Vasconi Associates as the architects. Their proposal envisaged a 482-bed hospital (with 85 per cent of rooms having a sea view) built on the site of the existing Centre Hospitalier Princesse Grace (CHPG). It involved a complex, three-phase relocation centred on a glassfronted main building straddling Boulevard Pasteur, with space for 1,100 cars. In June 2010, these ambitious plans were put on hold by the government. It argued that a re-think was required in light of the global financial crisis, Monaco's budget deficit, and the fact that a

Cassandra Tanti, Louise Kirby, Claire Lathbury, Aila Stöckmann, Silke Seehars

and drink for everyone! Passengers flying in business class will receive a complimentary continental or hot breakfast until 9:30am, or a hot meal during the rest of the day. There is also separate premium check-in available, free newspapers and magazines, access to The Great British Lounge, Terminal 1, and Seat selection at time of booking. Economy class passengers can also expect a light breakfast or a sandwich and drink, 20 kilogram free hold baggage allowance, and seat selection at check-in. Flights depart London at 8.50am Monday to Saturday, and 5.50pm daily. Outbound travel from Nice is 1pm and 9.35pm daily.

ADVERTORIAL

B

ritish Midland International (bmi) is doubling the number of flights available between Nice Côte d’Azur airport and London Heathrow. Following the addition of this new flight path in August this year, bmi has announced

Monaco

reduction in health cover for the 60 per cent of patients treated under the French system is set to cost the CHPG dearly. A year later, in June 2011, plans embracing elements of the Vasconi design were announced. The new hospital will be built alongside the current CHPG to the east and will jut out over Boulevard Pastor near the tunnel. However, it will only have 409 beds, compared to the current 403. Still, it's 100 more than is deemed necessary for the population it serves. The hospital's catchment area embraces 125,000 people from Menton to Villefranche in the Alpes-Maritimes department of France, which includes circa 35,000 people in Monaco. A sum of 5 million euros has been ear-marked for technical studies, with building starting in 2014, and a further 9 million to minimise dust and noise for patients in the old building. The first phase (three-quarters of the project) should be completed by 2021 and the rest by 2025.

British Midland International is now offering two flights per day departing Nice Côte d’Azur airport to London Heathrow, on board the Airbus 319 aircraft with Business Class and Economy cabins both offering complimentary food and drink. Below: the Côte d’Azur is spectacular, at any time of year

bmi increase new flights between Nice and London Heathrow

Whether you are travelling to see friends or family, or to marvel at the sights of the city including London Bridge, bmi’s new flights will make the experience as comfortable as possible

million euros. Medical features include MRI, radiology, cardiology, endoscopy, and a helipad.


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FOR DAILY BREAKING NEWS

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NOVEMBER 2011

Tax fraud crackdown

Political Column by Julian Nundy

1.8 billion euros recovered for France

Tax evasion is hot on the agenda amid a climate of tough austerity

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ore than one billion euros has been recovered in France from tax evasion, while nearly 14 billion has been has been retrieved on a global scale. The results were delivered by Global Forum on Transparency and Exchange of Information for Tax Purposes (OECD), a group established in 2008 as part of G20 tax

evasion commitments. The extra revenue comes at a time when many countries are being forced to increase taxes to ease pressure from the global economic situation. And, according to the Global Forum, "there is plenty more in the pipeline." Responding to the call for improved tax transparency, the Global Forum is leading

the implementation of an internationally agreed standard on exchange of information, with commitments from all of the G20 members leading by example. The Global Forum is also working with the International Financial Corporation of the World Bank, the IMF and the Financing for Development arm of the UN Department of Economic and Social Affairs. Measures taken by the Forum have delivered more than 1.8 billion euros for Germany, 1.4 billion for the United States, and 150 million for Australia. The Global Forum will be responsible for implementing measures with a number of new tax havens identified at the Cannes G20 summit. Cassandra Tanti

Immigration rules tighten, again Papers required to prove French language ability

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rance is tightening its immigration rules, demanding all would-be citizens provide written proof that they can speak enough French to manage their daily lives. The announcement was made in the government's official gazette in October. Previously, candidates had their language skills tested in interviews with government officials. From January 2012, they will have to "produce a diploma or certificate delivered by a state-recognised organism." France grants citizenship to around 100,000 people each year. According to the French daily Les Echos, around one million foreigners living in France do not speak French. It said the government is

spending 60 million euros to promote French-language skills amid growing concern over the issue. Meanwhile, the French government has been forced to soften its stance on limiting work visas for college graduates after criticism from students and universities. A memo dated 31st May and issued by the ministries of Interior and Labor encouraged immigration offices to apply existing regulations "rigorously" to limit legal immigration. "Priority should be given to the professional insertion of job seekers already present on our territory, both of French and foreign nationalities, residing legally in France," the memo read. Higher Education Minister

Laurent Wauquiez said that there is no "policy of closing off entry to France," adding it is not the policy in place which is flawed, but the way it is being applied. He said the country's doors "must remain open" to international students, but he wanted to encourage student exchanges between universities, rather than individuals coming to France to study. Interior Minister Claude Guéant told Le point, "We are now going to bring pragmatic solutions case by case." He also said that in most cases non-European students came to France to study, not to enter the job market, "Their main goal should be to return home so as to enable their country to benefit from their skills." Cassandra Tanti

The Riviera Times’ political commentator in Paris

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he autumn rentrée belonged to the French Socialist Party. It took a majority in the Senate for the first time in the 52-year history of the Fifth Republic; then, it successfully carried out primaries to choose the candidate to face Nicolas Sarkozy in presidential elections next spring, giving François Hollande, a former party chief, a resounding victory. With Sarkozy's ratings consistently confirming his unpopularity among voters and successive polls showing that any Socialist candidate could beat him, the 56-yearold president's misfortunes were worsened by scandals involving his entourage. The gravest concerned the killing of 11 French naval engineers in Karachi by a terrorist bomb in 2002. The judicial enquiry now centres on allegations that the attack was a reprisal for unpaid bribes in a complicated system of commissions and "retrocomissions", under which the cost of submarines sold to Pakistan was inflated and money returned illegally to finance the unsuccessful presidential campaign of Edouard Balladur in 1995.

Water breaker A NEW coastal dam has been announced for the shores between Antibes and Villeneuve-Loubet to protect against erosion and flooding. It will be 3-metres high and 6metres wide. An underground porous wall will also be built along the coast to avoid water flooding the main roads. Work is due to begin in 2014. Project financing and environmental tests are being sought.

Momentum on the Left Sarkozy was Balladur's spokesman for that campaign. Two other members of the campaign team, both close associates of the current president, have been charged. If the enquiry drags out without explicitly clearing Sarkozy, it could be a major impediment to his re-election. In another murky affair, a top policeman was charged with tapping journalists' telephones to uncover their sources in a scandal that toppled Eric Woerth, the former labour minister, last year. The Socialists' somewhat better fortunes began with the Senate win. In fact, it was no surprise since senators are chosen by grands électeurs, elected officials including parliamentarians, mayors and departmental and regional councillors. With the Left making gains on the local level - while the Right won national elections - over the past decade, the new balance in the Senate was a mathematical certainty. But, in public relations terms, it was bad for Sarkozy. Then, after forecasts that the Socialists' primaries would stress their divisions, the process passed off

smoothly with Hollande, 57, taking an impressive 56 per cent in the final round. With Hollande projecting himself as a "normal" candidate against Sarkozy, the Right homed in on his credentials as a statesman. Hollande has always worked backstage, holding senior posts in the party and in academy but never a government ministry, bolstering arguments that he is too inexperienced to be head of state. As Sarkozy's woes amplified, there were murmurings in his UMP party that he should step down and allow someone like Foreign Minister Alain Juppé to be the Right's candidate, an unlikely scenario given Sarkozy's tenacity. Sarkozy supporters point to his brilliance on the campaign trail to show that he is not finished yet. At the same time, Le Monde published a statistical study showing that, even if Sarkozy does win a second term next May, his party could lose the parliamentary elections in June, handing government to the Socialists and turning the president into little more than a figurehead.

Music in all its glory

November

is the month for music lovers, with the annual MANCA festival offering a feast for the ears with everything from recitals and orchestral concerts to electronic music. The 32nd edition, to be held 18th to 24th November at the Théâtre Francis Gag in Nice, also features a range of debates and conferences, as well as opera and dance.

Operatic group Icarus will be kicking off the event with a performance to the music of Mexican composers Arturo Fuentes, Ana Lara and JavierTorres Maldonado. Meanwhile, the Percussions de Strasbourg and dance group L'Abrupt will celebrate 50 years performing as an ensemble, as well as the 10-year anniversary of the death of their composer .


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NEWS

NOVEMBER 2011

Police force honoured Côte tops national temps for great work But is it all a little too premature? "I have always regarded the walking home along Jean station, the police officer tried security of residents in Nice Médecin after work at 5am to pick up my friend. Then, and the French population in and was withdrawing money when that friend's apartment general as the most important from a cash machine, when door was being beaten-in by of their rights and you, the someone grabbed his wallet, thugs in the old town this police, are the defence of jumped on a waiting scooter year, the police took 45 and sped off. minutes to respond (the these rights. "Keep your station was 100 metres away). We owe you “In my country, you eyes and ears And just recently, when our a lot of open at all intern here at The Riviera Times t h a n k s , " don’t get asked for praised the your phone number times, espe- reported her iPod stolen, the cially after police officer asked for her mayor. Yes, it is by the police officer dark," was his phone number. When she laughed, the officer asked fair to say you are reporting a advice. He was what was funny. "In my that Nice is a lucky. Accor- country, you don't get asked lot safer than crime to.” ding to a for your phone number by the it was five years ago, and there is an health worker at the Saint police officer you are reporting obvious police presence on Roch hospital, there is a a crime to." Therefore, while the figures the streets during the day and common trend now for at major events. But are all victims to be hit over the head show a reduction in crime, these pats on the back slightly with a helmet before being this could also, in part, be a premature? Does the Anglo- mugged. A surveillance result of a growing apathy phone community of Nice, camera can help capture towards reporting crime, and who often bear the brunt of these criminals, but what a lack of faith in the response people will receive from the about the victim? violent crime, agree? According to Deputy Mayor local police. This certainly is a Reaching out to the community becomes easier Benoit Kandel, "security is like common opinion. As one resident of Nice old with social networks and, health, the more you exert combined with interviews, it is yourself, the more you harm town put it, "A simple patrol of easy to gather a clear yourself." In other words, stay 6 police in pairs, grid walking the old town consensus: yes, people have out of the 'hot from 12am generally noticed more police zones' and Estrosi’s declara6am on the streets and, as it goes, you'll stay out tion that the securi- to would be the more police you see the of trouble. enough. It's less criminals will linger. But The problem ty in Nice should about prewhat is also very clear is that is, these 'hot sence and this police presence was zones' are be used as a the perpenoticed only during the day, main thor- ‘model’ for other trators not and not so much at night oughfares. For seven European countries having the when people feel it is needed full conyears, a senior most. fidence of Of the 240 police officers on member of becomes arguably the old town daily duty this summer, only staff at an questionable. being law40 were deployed at night. English-speaAccording to Estrosi, sur- king establish-ment in Nice has less during the hours of veillance cameras (one for been walking home late darkness." Nice old town is the most every 300 people in Nice) are through the old town. He filling the void, and "police are identifies three main hotpots: lively part of the city, at any able to intervene before the the stairs leading to Jean time of year, and the powers Jaurès (Descente Crotti), the that be should be proud to crime escalates." If you look at the figures - a château end of rue Rossetti, have such a vibrant social 12 per cent increase in and the corridor from Place scene. But they must also interventions on last year - it Rossetti, along rue Mascoinat, protect the people, not looks quite good. But the to Jean Jaurès. These problem encourage them to go home reality on street tells a areas are also well known to before midnight. And whilst statistics show improvement different story. Estrosi's police. "Out of the five days that I in security, the feeling at declaration that the security in Nice should be used as a am working, probably 3 nights ground level is one of 'model' for other European I will see one police car in frustration and despair cities becomes arguably those spots. But never inside bordering on resentment. As the investment in the old town, only on Jean questionable. As soon as I put the word Jaurès, and they generally only infrastructure and the out asking if people had been just drive by in their cars beautification of Nice makes it a victim of crime in the city, surveying," says the worker, a more inviting city to live and reports of vicious beatings, who wishes to remain visit, there also needs to be a muggings and aggravated anonymous, "Something's not continued and improved thefts began to surface. Within working, I don't know what the police service to ensure the the first week of arriving in answer is, but as it is it's not safety of these people. And when many lack a confidence Nice, one Irish barman had enough." It is also very clear that in the police, let alone a already witnessed the dark side of his new city. "I was here there is a lack of respect for feeling that there's not for five days and I had seen the municipal police, for enough on the street, Nice two fights and someone being reasons that vary. For me, it's has some way to go before it maced in the first week. because when I reported a can be viewed as a model for Within ten days I was robbed." crime last year and had to other European cities. Cassandra Tanti The twenty-six-year-old was make a statement at the

© David Winch

Continued from page 1 ...

An incredibly vibrant sunset over the Côte d’Azur during the warm month of October

T

he year's unpredictable weather continued through to October. While the thermometer unexpectedly rocketed during the September months, October enjoyed pleasant, warm conditions. Daytime temperatures reached an average of 20 degrees Celsius, while the nights generally recorded a comfortable 12 degrees. With a total of 174 hours of October

sunshine in Nice compared to only 111 hours in Lyon, the Côte d'Azur also experienced some of the warmest national temperatures for this time of the year. Conditions rapidly changed, however, on 24th October when Météo de France issued a storm weather warning for the south east. Heavy rain, hail and strong winds were a clear indication that the extended summer was officially over.

Fortunately, the early October sunshine has not affected the Alpes-Maritimes ski season. Snow has already begun to fall on the Lombardy hills, forcing roads to shut on 24th October. La Bonette was also closed to vehicles on the weekend of 14th October due to heavy snowfall, while Isola and Auron received a nice dumping of snow at the end of the month. Louise Kirby


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NOVEMBER 2011

4-star luxury returns The Hôtel de Paris is set to re-open its doors, but this time there’s a suspended swimming pool

Bar ordered to close THE MAYOR of Saint-Tropez, Jean-Pierre Tuveri, has temporarily shut a local bar after the owners failed to comply with new opening hour regulations. This July, the Chez Maggy bar was ordered to change its closing time to 1am as opposed to 3am, after complaints from angry residents surfaced about the level of noise. Owner Josiane Bakalian refused to change the closing time of her bar, and was consequently ordered to close the establishment for three months from October 2011 as punishment. Bakalian told the Var Matin, "In my bar, there was not a single fight or any

serious crime. The closure of Chez Maggy is completely unfair." She went on to say, "If my bar is shut down permanently, I will start a hunger strike on the town hall steps. All of these rules are ridiculous and change depending on who you are." In Spring 2010, Saint Tropez nightclub The Pier escaped closure after failing to comply with the new rules. Petitions against the new rules have slowly died down at the Place des Lices. Meanwhile, the Brasserie des Arts has reportedly spent more than 200,000 euros on work to control noise, and Bistro Bar has promised to do the same in 2012.

Tickle the ivories Next summer, Hôtel de Paris will open its doors to Saint Tropez for the first time in 20 years, and you can expect some changes, including contemporary décor and some interesting 21st century additions

A

fter almost 20 years out of action, Hôtel de Paris in SaintTropez is ready for a come back. The highly anticipated return of the luxurious hotel is set to take the Côte d'Azur by storm in summer 2012. Hôtel de Paris was originally built by the Aubour family in 1930, and was a haven for the rich and famous descending on the Mediterranean looking for that little slice of luxury. Guests have included the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. Then, in 1992, the hotel officially closed, leaving behind its ornate neo impressionist décor, its list of star clients, and its allimportant glamorous reputation. However, exactly 20 years after the family officially

closed the premises, the hotel is back, under the new ownership of real estate developer Claude Dray from Cidinvest. The reopening of Hôtel de Paris is well on its way, as established French architect François Vieillecroze works avidly on the regeneration project. With a host of redevelopments under his belt, Vieillecroze has expanded the premises to over six storeys, including 100 lavish guestrooms, a glass swimming pool, and a movie theatre dedicated to all the famous film stars that have graced the hotel over the years. Suspended 15 metres off the ground, hidden on the roof of the hotel, is an impressive glass bottom swimming pool, offering guests the perfect relief from

the Mediterranean sunshine as well as an outstanding view across the horizon of the Riviera. They really will be living the dream. Another of the hotel's impressive features is its contemporary decor. In contrast with the famous Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, which remains the pinnacle of classic interior design in the Riviera, Hôtel de Paris in Saint-Tropez will boast modernity, with 'walking showers' and a whole lot of chic. An impressive restaurant will also be included in the newly developed hotel, under the management of threeMichelin-star chef, Georges Blanc. In addition, a magnificent 1500 square metre function room with the latest technology and gadgets. And Saint-Tropez

would not be Saint-Tropez without its celebrity appearances. Incorporating this concept, the hotel will offer a 'Club Privé' in the summer months for some of the exclusive parties and gatherings along the Riviera. Claude Dray bought the hotel in October 2001 for 3.2 million euros from Immo Group. However, work could not start immediately due to legal battles between Mr Dray and the previous owner. Mr Dray was eventually granted building permission, allowing construction work to begin in May 2008. With major competitors around the area such as Hotel Byblos, also built by Mr Viellecroze, the hotel hopes to regain its previous four star status and prove that all is not lost for this Côte d'Azurian gem. Louise Kirby

THE FRIENDS of Music are introducing an autumn piano extravaganza between 5th and 13th November in Salle JeanDespas, Saint-Tropez. A variety of performances will feature at the festival, organised by Fernand Ansaldi. Piano sensation the Bizjak sisters will feature at the event along with performances of

Chopin, Ravel and Fauré. Delighting Saint-Tropez on 11th November will be the international musical star Anne Queffélec. Shows are scheduled to begin around 6pm for each of the nine days. Tickets can be purchased from the Saint- Tropez tourism office.


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November 2011

BRIC nations targetted

Deficit spending slashed M

Balanced budget within three years is the long term target

The Princess Grace Theatre will be one of the establishments to bear the brunt of budget cuts, while banks have been asked to step in and fill the funding void left by the government

T

he Principality of Monaco's draft 2012 budget, a determinant step in the government's drive to arrive at a balanced budget by 2014, was revealed in early October. "We haven't been able to control our deficit spending for a number of years," explained Minister of State Michel Roger, "now is the time to exercise discipline." 'Control' translates to a 40 per cent decrease in deficit spending compared to last

year's preliminary budget. While social and public security expenditures will remain untouched, cultural institutions - the opera, ballet, Printemps des Arts, and Princess Grace Theatre - will bear the brunt of budget cutbacks. Most institutions have responded philosophically to the cuts, with the exception of the Nouveau Musée Nationale Monégasque, which has publically lamented its inability to purchase the kind of art works appropriate for a

national museum. Banks, however, are being encouraged to fill the vacancy left by government sponsorship. "It's in the interest of banks that Monaco remain a cultural capital,” asserted the Interior Minister Paul Masseron. Expected revenues of 833 million euros in 2012 match the running expenses of a similar amount. But it is the government's involvement in building projects, up 17.3 per cent on last year, plus a provisional fund set up for the

new Princess Grace Hospital, that has tipped the balance and lead to a budget deficit of 57 million euros. The main building projects involving the state are the Odeon Tower on the eastern edge of Monaco and Zac Saint Antoine on the border with Cap d'Ail - both currently under construction. The new hospital is only at the technical-detailing stage and the first sod will probably remain unturned until 2014. Still, the government is already budgeting funding to avoid what Financial and Economics Minister Marco Piccinini calls an eventual "time bomb". "I'm against postponing problems, we have to start making liquid provision, in a blocked account, for our successors," he said. Nonetheless, compared to its euro zone neighbours, Monaco sits in a privileged position. The Principality has no sovereign debt and possesses still untouched reserves. A breakdown shows nearly 2 billion in liquidity, a similar amount in mainly real estate assets, and gold worth 230 million. Still it plans to reach a zero-deficit by 2014. As Counsellor Piccinini summed up, "Monaco's economic and social model is durable and sustainable. Faith in durability will attract entrepreneurs and large fortunes." Lois Bolton

onaco's Direction du Tourisme et des Congrès (DTC) has changed leadership, but not direction. "Seducing the ultra rich" remains firmly on the agenda, but the Principality must adapt to the tastes of the new elite, not locals", says the government. On long-time director Michel Bouquier’s watch, the DTC embarked on an attractiveness programme, better known as the 2009-2013 Feuille de Route or Road map - a marketing package tailored to what Bouquier describes as URIs (Ultra Rich Individuals), congresses and investors. Private Label During Bouquier's mandate, Monaco has dotted the four corners of the globe with Monegasque representative offices, accompanied by glam galas to promote the Monaco luxury brand. There's also been the creation of the Monaco Private Label offering permanent, prestigious perks to around 600 members. The idea behind the scheme is that money attracts money or,

as Bouquier puts it, "to capture a clientele with an elitist position in order to seduce the ultra rich." Economic reality Incoming DTC Director Guillaume Rose is charged with adapting this offer to specific economic realities. Monaco has long lived on its Belle Epoque and Princess Grace legends, but as Marco Piccinini, Monaco's Economics and Finance Minister, observed: "The Monaco product must constantly evolve, without betraying its origins." In contrast, he added: "We have to adapt to the tastes of the new elite, not locals … in a world changing faster than we know how to change." It's hardly an easy task, considering Monaco's perceived elitist audience is the BRIC nations (Brazil, Russia, India and China), each with its own very distinct culture. How to persuade non-Europeans, with unlimited budgets to make Monaco their destination of choice is a heady challenge. LB

Luxury travel show on hold THE 7TH annual Monte Carlo Travel Market show will not go ahead as planned this year. The management behind the annual show has announced that the event is being acquired by an international communication and publishing firm based in Monaco. "The new owner intends to continue this special and much-appreciated venue, though with a number of

strategic changes and innovations to better address the upscale travel industry needs," read a statement. “The travel market and the channels of distribution have considerably changed over the past decade, yet most shows remain traditional. MCTM is now ready to make the necessary change happen." New dates are yet to be announced.


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MONACO

FOR MONACO NEWS

www.rivieratimes.com

NOVEMBER 2011

MICS storms Monaco Who said trade shows have to be boring?

M

onaco's newest highprofile trade show, MICS, is back this November at the Grimaldi Forum, and new to the agenda this year haute couture. Since its debut in 2009, the MICS expo has established itself as a unique networking platform for nightlife industry

over three days! Around 10,000 professionals attended last year's event, showcasing and discovering new products, and sharing innovative ideas. The elite of the nightlife industry were on hand to talk shop, including the VIP Room (France), Sankeys (UK), Blue Marlin Ibiza (Spain), and Soho

Grey Goose stand at the 2010 Monaco International Clubbing Show

leaders. It is also one big party, with a continuous flow of activity from 2pm to 5am

Rooms (Russia). Crafted cocktails were poured from the finest liquor brands, and a

spectacular flair contest got the energy pumping. But the excitement isn't just confined to the forum. The whole Principality can dance to the rhythm of the MICS with major DJs appearing at associated venues including the Brasserie de Monaco, Black Legend, Ni Club, Jimmy'z, Zelo's, Before and Virage. This year, visitors will be treated to a Fashion Gallery, as major boutiques form a walkway entrance to the expo. Meanwhile, a fashion show is being organised with proceeds going to HSH Prince Albert's children's charity, l'Association Mission Enfance. Once again, Bacardi will be sponsoring the World Flair Bartending Championship on the 11th, with participants flying in from across the globe. MICS will be held from 9th to 11th November. Tickets range from 25 to 250 euros. Cassandra Tanti

Shopping for a Monaco's reach is worldwide good cause IT'S TIME to start marking festival events in the calendar, and one very worthy cause that deserves attention is the annual charity bizarre on 3rd December. The event was created in 1970 by St Paul's church, St Vincent de Paul, and the British Association. The annual Ecumenical Kermesse will be held in the Fontvieille Chapiteau, and it's a great way to find pre-Christmas bargains. There are over 25 stalls including clothes, books (English & French), antiques, children's toys, Christmas cards, Monegasque, Greek, Spanish and English speciality stands (including paella and sangria) plus electrical goods, DVDs, CDs, shoes, household items, gifts and novelties. This year's Tombola has over 40 exciting prizes and tickets are just 2 euros each. If you would like to declutter your house or apartment ahead of Christmas, then the Kermesse would be very grateful to receive your donations.

David Suzuki (left) joins Prince Albert II, Professor Gretchen Daily and Andras Szรถllรถsi-Nagy at the recent environment awards

M

onaco, the world's second smallest state, has taken on a giant role defender of the planet. The two square kilometrecountry's 'eco-vehicle', the Prince Albert II Foundation, has initiated 186 environmental projects in developing countries, polar regions and the Mediterranean basin since its inception in 2006, and has taken on another l5 this year. Along with its practical project support, the Foundation gives annual awards to those whose efforts have most contributed to environmental protection and sustainable development around the globe. This year's three laureates, announced at an awards ceremony on 8th October, were Canadian geneticist David Suzuki, who received an award for his

research on climate change and for his awareness-raising activities, Stanford Professor Gretchen Daily for her field work project Natural Capital, and Andras Szรถllรถsi-Nagy for his work on alleviating flood risks. The Foundation's new projects cover the struggle against deforestation, creation of protected areas in the Mediterranean and the Arctic, the impact of climate change on the glaciers of the Himalayas and the evaluation of energy efficiency in Africa. In his concern for the environment, Prince Albert II of Monaco is following in the footsteps of his great-great grandfather, Prince Albert I, an oceanographer who founded the Oceanographic Museum. Lois Bolton


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MONACO NOVEMBER 2011

New media versus Internet

M

onaco Mediax, a nonprofit event planning organisation from Monaco, has joined forces with the Geneva-based event production group, PublicisLive to host the sixth edition of the Monaco Media Forum (MMF) to be held from 9th to 11th November. Hosted by HSH Prince Albert II, MMF 2011 will bring together 400 leaders of new and traditional media. For two-and-a-half days, the event will engage in high-level discussions about the future of online, broadcast and print communications. This year's focus is on 'Screen Wars', concentrating on the continuing collision between the Internet and new media.

According to Prince Albert II, "The annual Monaco Media Forum combines the highest profile players, biggest brands and most far-reaching - and sometimes controversial topics, to move forward the dialogue about the 'mediascape' in the global context." With guest speakers including Twitter CEO Dick Costolo and Joanna Shields of Facebook, the Chairman of PublicisLive John Rossant says he is excited about what this year's MMF has to offer. "The 2011 event will be the best and most well-attended in our history." MMF 2011 will take place in the Principality of Monaco from Wednesday 9th-Friday 11th November 2011.

Fee increase

Palace advisor

THERE IS concern among Monaco boat owners over plans to increase berthing fees. As part of the government's budget-boosting agenda, it is proposing a 45 per cent increase spread over three years. The current price of a berth for a six-metre boat is 300 euros per year.

COLONEL XAVIER Prache has taken office in the Prince's Palace, as an advisor to HSH Prince Albert II. Mr Prache, aged 43, was previously stationed as a General Major with the Marines in Paris, and now specialises in human resources management.

Jazz stars hit the stage for annual festival

Guitar legends Mike Stern and John McLaughlin headline jazz festival

The end of analogue TV

A

skyline dotted with metalic antennas is soon to be a thing of the past. As of 30th November 2011, residents of Monaco will no longer receive analogue TV channels. Digital channels only will be broadcast to the Principality, in an attempt to improve the quality of television images as well as offering a wider range of channels to viewers. The first analogue-to-digital switchover took place in October with the English language channel CNBC, and France's Italian channels RAI 1, 2 and 3. Canal plus and France

3 will make the switch on 14th November at midnight. Meanwhile, TF1, France 2, TMC and Monaco Info will all remain on analogue channels until midnight Wednesday 30th November. To receive the 18 free digital channels, each TV set is required to have a TNT adapter. For televisions made before 2008, these are available from retailers who support the switchover. For further information on Monaco going digital, call the special helpline number on 8000 2000 or check out the website: www.gouv.mc.

THE MONTE CARLO Jazz Festival, now in its 6th year, will present a host of jazz favourites between the 24th and 26th this month. Among the headline acts are John McLaughlin, the man who Jeff Beck referred to in 2010 as "the best guitarist alive". Also firing up the stage is six-time Grammy nominee

Mike Stern. They'll be joined by Biréli Lagrène, Sylvain Luc, Philip Catherine, Richard Bona, Steve Gadd, André Ceccarelli, and Joey DeFrancesco for a special 'Monte Carlo Guitar Summit' on Thursday 24th. Also on the programme are Avishal Romano and the Tigran Hamasyan Trio.


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MONACO

FOR MONACO NEWS

www.rivieratimes.com

NOVEMBER 2011

Near perfect score for MYS Exclusive interview with Peter Rigby, CEO of Informa Group Peter Rigby, CEO of the group behind the Monaco Yacht Show, shares his thoughts on the success of the 2011 event. Mr. Rigby, how would you rate this year's show? We had an overwhelming positive response from our exhibitors and visitors. The 2011 show, in a difficult economic environment, was better than what we had expected. Organisationally, the event was very strong and we had even less difficulties than in previous years. The Monaco Yacht Show is the top yacht show in the world, which

industry and as so, it has to judge the mood and deliver each year. I think it did that. Can you please give us a few key numbers ? 28,200 participants attended the show this year to meet the 500 exhibitors on stands and the 100 superyachts on berths, up to 86 meters. This year, the show broke the record of the yacht average length with 46.70 meters! As for the yachts sold, you can easily guess the information is not that obvious as the process for selling boats can last a few months.

Informa CEO Peter Rigby is proud of what the MYS has achieved

puts special demands on us to retain that position. I think we did this handsomely. Let’s give ourselves 9 out of 10. How did it compare to last year? Our goal each year is to improve upon the previous year and we are convinced we did that. Not just in numbers but in the standard of the yachts and exhibitors and the high level of activity which took place during the show. The Monaco Yacht Show is a real rallying point for the

Nevertheless, we can say the Monaco Yacht Show has clearly become a decisive step when selling a boat. What are some of the changes to the MYS you have seen since the Informa group have taken over? I suppose the main change since Informa took over the yacht show in 2005 has been the retirement of Luc Pettavino as the head of the team in Monaco, being replaced by Gaelle Tallarida. Both major events have

deliberately had little impact on the yacht show, the success of which is paramount. When you have a world renowned event, you change things only carefully and after full consideration. Informa supports the team in Monaco and pushes them to improve the show and listen carefully to our clients. We work closely with Gaelle and other members of her team who are highly experienced, to ensure that if they need support from the parent they get it. What can we expect from the MYS 2012? To be better than this year. You have added a new boat show to your portfolio this year, the Abu Dhabi Yacht Show. What impact does this have on the MYS, if any? The Abu Dhabi Yacht show began in 2009 and it is a specific Superyacht event of the Middle Eastern region. It is run by a different organising team than the Monaco Yacht Show and both talk to one another. It has no impact on the Monaco show. What makes the MYS unique (compared to other shows worldwide) and what does it take to keep it in the top position? Nowhere else in the world will you find the finest shipyards, the top yacht designers, the principle brokerage houses and the best superyacht equipment supplirs, all gathered in one spot. To discover 100 exclusive superyachts, of which 40% are presented for the first time, makes the MYS the place to be.

Visitor numbers for the 2011 MYS were slightly up on last year, with 28,200 people enjoying more than 100 yachts and around 500 different exhibitors

What also makes the Monaco Yacht Show special are charity auctions, prize giving, lunches, gala dinners and cocktail parties. As in previous years, MYS pledged support for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, a local charity that receives 50 per cent of all entrance ticket sales (52,700 euros this year). They also co-organised the 4th edition of the Only Watch charity auction at Hotel Hermitage, which this year raised an incredible 4,563,000 euros, benefiting research into Duchenne Muscular Distrophy.

Herbert Dahm (second from the right) with his team and The Riviera Times’ interns

Former Director of the MYS, Luc Pettavino, with his family who came to visit The Riviera Times’ stand

Second Big Debate success

L

ast month's Big Debate competition attracted no less than 20 teams of two (non-mothertongue English-speaking) students and adults, with the semi-finals and finals held in the Princess Grace Theatre. For the schools semi-finals (between the François d'Assise-Nicolas Barré School and the Lycée Albert 1er) the prepared topic was 'This house believes parents are out of touch with their children', and all four teams acquitted themselves with honour. It was a difficult choice for the judges, who included Dr Michelle Haslem, First Secretary at the British Embassy in Paris. However, when it came to the topic for the final - 'this house believes boys should be given guns' - there was no doubt: Paul Pettavino and Gwenaelle d'Aumale from the Lycée Albert 1er stood out as

The winners of this year’s Big Debate competition

the best duo. For the organisations section, the final pitted Tassilo Labuzinski and Patrick Buhmann from the International University of Monaco (IUM) against Xavier Chabredier and Candice Fricke from the Beach Meridién. Their final topic, 'This house believes less is more' produced a very inspired and entertaining discussion, with the IUM team coming out on top.

Both the Minister of Health & Social Affairs Stéphane Valeri and Interior Minister Paul Masseron attended. Anne Batt, the driving force behind the competition, paid tribute to the high level of English in Monaco's schools. The competition was supported by the Junior Economic Chamber of Monaco, the British Association of Monaco and the Association of Young Monegasques. Claire Lathbury


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EVENTS

UPDATED DAILY CALENDAR

www.rivieratimes.com

NOVEMBER 2011

01 Nov Tue

08 Tue

12 Sat

18 Fri

Film festival. 9th ‘Cine Festival en Pays de Fayence.’ Entrance 20 euros. At Cinéma de Montauroux. Tel. 06 22 04 36 77 Montauroux (G1)

Conference. Illustrated talk with journalist, Leo McKinstry followed by the chance to chat over a glass of wine and food. Entrance 10 euros members, 20 euros non-members. 7pm. At St Paul's Anglican Church Hall. Tel. +377 93 50 19 52

Sport. 'Nuit de Champions.’ Boxing competition. With regional champions Bruce Codron, Sébastien Pace and Thomas Adamandopoulos. At Marseille Palais des Sports. Tel. 04 91 42 97 28

Festival. ‘Festival MANCA’ International Contemporary Music Festival hosting a wide range of musical talent. With a range of performances, from big orchestral concerts to electronic music recitals. Tel. 04 93 88 74 68 Nice (I2)

02 Wed Day trip. ‘Entre jardin et gastronomie, de Menton à l'Italie.' Visit Hanbury Botanical gardens followed by picnic in Fontana Rosa gardens. Food provided by Michelin Star restaurant 'le Paris-Rome'. From 9.30am to 5.30pm. 64 euros. Tel. 04 92 41 76 95 Menton (M2)

Monaco (L2)

Concert. The 'Glenn Miller Orchestra.’ Entrance 52 euros. 8.30pm. At Rainier III Auditorium. Tel. 04 93 19 37 41 Monaco (L2)

Theatre. ‘Notre Dallas.’ Comedy directed by Charles Éric Petit. 7.30pm. At Théâtre National de Nice. Tel. 04 93 13 90 90 Nice (I2)

04 Fri

10 Thur

Club. ‘Friday Friendship Club.’ The British Association of Monaco holds two Friday Friendship Club meetings, 3pm to 5pm. Also 18/11. Tel. +377 93 50 19 52 Monaco (L2)

Meeting. BAM Happy Hour. Entrance free. 6.30-8pm. Also 24/11. Tel. +377 93 50 19 52

Music and dance. Egyptian Sufi vocals. Entrance 14 euros. 8.30pm. At the Auditorium Cité de la musique. Tel. 04 91 39 28 28 Marseille (A1)

13 Sun Sailing. ‘Madraco Cup.’ The coast of Saint-Tropez will be swarming with sailing boats taking part in the competition. From 11/11. Tel. 04 94 97 30 54 Saint-Tropez (D2)

09 Wed Show. ‘Monaco International Clubbing Show.’ All the latest technology, drinks, lighting, and modcons unveiled at this international event. 2pm to 9pm. Until 13/11. Tel. +377 93 50 60 11 Monaco (L2)

03 Thur

Marseille (A1)

Monaco (L2)

Rap concert. With the rapper 'Soprano.' 8pm. Entrance 28 to 33 euros. At Zénith Grande Salle & Oméga Live. Tel. 04 91 80 10 89 Toulon (B2)

Christmas Market. English christmas market held at Château de Berne. Enjoy a selection of festive treats, such as christmas pudding, mince pies, chutney, jams and festive brandy butter. Tel. 04 94 60 43 53 Lorgues (E1)

14 Mon Food festival. ‘Salon du palais gourmand à Cagnes-sur-mer.’ The annual event welcomes 25,000 visitors to the small town, to enjoy produce from 300 food connoisseurs from all over France. Try regional delicacies including, foie gras, nuts, wine and fresh fruit. Tel. 04 93 20 61 64 Cagnes-sur-Mer (I1)

05 Sat

15 Tue

Concert. 'Kill the Young' and Finale Tremplin ZIK ZAK. Entrance 10 euros. 8.30pm. At Nikaia Live. Tel. 04 93 19 37 40

Meeting. 'Environnement /Energies.’ For the 5th year, 20 companies from across the region will come together to discuss ways to be more energy efficient. Until 17/11. Tel. 04 91 14 42 28

Nice (I2)

06 Sun Concert. PACA Orchestra. Performances from Philippe Bender, Gábor Boldoczki and pianist, Marika Hofmeyr. 4.30pm. At Théâtre Croisette. Reservation required. Tel. 04 92 98 62 77 Cannes (G2) Antique Fair. Professional antique market with a selection of fish and meats from local butchers, fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as bread, cheese, olives, spices and wine. At Château de Berne. 10am to 6pm. Tel. 04 94 60 43 60 Lorgues (F1)

07 Mon Excursion. 'Un après-midi sous les oliviers.’ Discover the nature and beautiful countryside of Menton. Entrance 15 euros. Tel. 04 92 412 76 76 Menton (M2)

Marseille (A1)

16 Wed 11 Fri Festival. ‘Fête de la SaintMartin.’ Festival hosted by the ‘Comité d'animation’, in the celebration of Saint Martin. There will be a lantern parade, followed by mulled wine. Tel. 06 34 48 31 77 Le Cannet-des-Maures (C1)

National Public Holiday. 11th November, ‘Anniversaire 1918’ is a bank holiday in France to commemorate Armistice day and veterans of World War I. Armistice Cup. International championship of the sea dragon boat race. Organised by the Cannes Yacht Club. Tel 04 93 43 05 90 Cannes (G2)

Concert. One of the most popular french singers, 86 year old singer Charles Aznavour will perform in Nice. Featuring a selection of new songs, 'Je M'voyais Déjà', 'Emmenezmoi', and 'La Bohème'. Tel. 08 92 70 74 07 Nice (I1)

17 Thur

19 Sat Chocolate festival. ‘Salon du Chocolat’. Challenge your taste buds and From 22/11 to 26/11 discover the highest art of A-list stars and internachocolate. Enjoy first-class tional guests will grace cuisine accompanied by the 11th edition of Monte violin music and carriage Carlo’s annual Comedy ride. Tombola available for Film Festival. A panel of children. 10am to 5pm. 65 Euro. At Château Saint Julien d'Aille. Tel. 04 94 73 02 24 Thur 89 Vidauban (E1) Exhibiton. ‘Le Moulin de Mougins.’ Situated in the Concert. ‘Tremplin Noël most famous restaurant in Rock'. Collaboration of Mougins, this exhibition professional and aspiring showcases the work of Quirin musicians to perform. From Mayer. Cocktails served from 5pm to 8pm. At the Galeries 6.30pm to 7.30pm. Tel. 06 33 Lafayette. Tel. 04 97 25 62 75 592 512 Mougins (G1)

Menton (M2)

Entrance 40/60 euros. 8.30pm to 10.30pm. Tel. 04 93 92 83 48 Nice (I2)

02 Fri Magic Show. Luc Apers, the 'Manipulateur'. Fee 9 euros. 8.30pm. Tel. 04 93 93 64 64 Mandelieu-la-Napoule (G2)

Nice (I2)

20 Sun

Festival. 6th edition of Monte Carlo Jazz Festival. Entrance 40 to 50 euros. 10am to 7pm. At the Monte-Carlo Garnier Opera. Until 26/11. Tel. +377 98 06 36 36 Monte Carlo (L2)

Marathon. A 42km long coastal route offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. Cross the finish-line in Cannes. 8am. At Promenade des 25 Fri Anglais. Tel. 04 93 26 19 88 Concert. ‘C'est pas ClasNice (I2) sique’. L'Orchestre Philharmonique de Nice. With Chestnut festival. A key Philippe Bender and pianist event for the autumn François-René Duchâble. season. Traditional, local 8:30pm. Tel. 04 93 92 83 00 produce, live music, enterNice (I2) tainment, country lunch and roast chestnut tasting. Tel. 26 Sat 04 93 35 62 87 Concert. 'Orchestre des Roquebrune Cap-M (L2) percussions de la Côte d'Azur'. Performance by a mix of students from the best music 21 Mon Market. Get in the festive schools in the region. 2pm. spirit with this christmas Tel. 04 97 18 60 00 Nice (I2) market. Local pottery, artwork, food and nativity gifts. 27 Sun 10am to 7pm. Tel. 04 42 03 Christmas Market. Festive 49 98 Aubagne (A1) Scandinavian fair. Château de Berne. Tel. 04 94 60 43 64

22 Tue

Excursion. 'Sur les pas des Lascaris.’ Take a tour through the historical hotspots of Menton, Castellar, Castillon and Sospel. The day trip also includes a lunch, offering the opportunity to sample local specialities. From 9am to 5pm. Entrance fee 42 euros (with transport and lunch included). Tel. 04 92 41 76 95

judges will pay tribute to the top films of the year and will award the prestigious ‘Platinum Awards’ during the ceremony (26th). Tickets will be on sale at the Salle Prince Pierre between 3.30 and 7.30pm. GRIMALDI FORUM 10, Avenue Princesse Grace MC 98 000 Monaco Info and Reservations: Tel. (+377) 99 99 30 00 ticket@grimaldiforum.mc www.grimaldiforum.com

Lorgues (C1)

Concert. With Italian singer and pianist Paolo Conte. 28 Mon Mediterranean and jazz Market. A Traditional danish music. 55 euros. 8.30pm. christmas market with a range Tel. 08 92 68 36 22 Nice (I2) of christmas decorations, gifts, candles, stocking fillers and Danish food. Tel. 04 93 20 61 23 Wed Concert. The American rock 64 Cagnes-sur-Mer (I1) band ‘30 seconds to Mars.’ At 8pm. Entrance 30 euros. 01 Dec Thur Tel. 04 91 91 92 10 Concert. The 'Gospel Tour' Marseille (A1) celebrates christmas in Nice.

Christmas Lights. The switching on of the festive lights. 6.30pm. Tel. +44 75 83 26 52 15 Monte Carlo (L2)

03 Sat Concert. French blues and soul singer Ben l'Ongle Soul is performing and is guaranteed to put a smile on your face. 8pm. At 'le dôme' in Marseille. Entrance 30 to 35 euros. Tel. 04 91 91 92 10 Marseille (A1) Magic Show. An event for all the family. Comedy, acrobatics and dance acts. Entrance 16 euros. At the Marseille Palais de Sports. Tel. 04 97 25 81 36 Marseille (A1)

04 Sun Theatre. Performance of 'Tréteaux.’ Entrance fee 10 euros. Théâtre de Calidie de Saint-Maxime Tel. 08 92 68 48 28 Saint-Tropez (D2)

05 Mon Show. ‘Le Grand Ballet de Cuba.’ Latin-American traditions of music, dance and costumes. Tel. 04 94 22 66 77 Toulon (C2)

06 Tue Christmas Festival. Place Masséna will be transformed into a christmas village. 11am-7pm. Tel +44 75 83 26 52 15 Nice (I2)


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EVENTS NOVEMBER 2011

Ongoing Events on

the French Riviera AIX-EN-PROVENCE (A1) Until 29/01/12 Art Exhibition. The ‘Conseil Général’ presents 'Voyage en Orient' by Pierre Loti and Nan Goldin. Entrance free. Open everyday except Monday. 9.30am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm. Tel. 04 13 31 50 70 ANTIBES (H1) Until 31/12/12 Walk. Discover the exciting culture of Antibes through 2,500 years of its unique history and many museums. Entrance price 5 euros for individuals and 3 euros for groups. Open everyday. Tel. 04 93 34 65 65 Until 08/01/12 Exhibition. Nicolas de Staël and Jeannine Guillou present ‘la vie dure’ at the Picasso Museum in Antibes. Entrance 3 euros. Tel. 04 92 90 54 26 Until 31/12 Exhibition. ‘Les aventures du commandant Cousteau’. Dive straight in and discover the ocean world at the new Sea and Coast set at the Musée Naval. Tel. 04 97 23 11 11 BANDOL (B1) Until 31/03/12 Boat trip. ‘Matinée de Decouverte de la Pêche Artisinale Professionnelle.’ Enjoy an early morning boat trip on a traditional fishing boat Entrance 60 euros. Between 3 to 5 hours long. At Port de Bandol. Reservation required. Tel. 06 87 73 02 07 CANNES (G2) Until 31/05/12 Art Exhibition. 'Les Années 60 à Cannes.' An exhibition showcasing life in Cannes town during the 1960s, by Archives de Cannes at Espace Calmette. Open Monday to Friday from 1.30pm to 5pm. Tel. 04 89 82 20 75 Until 27/11 Festival. One of the major dance festivals in the world comes to Cannes. With a host of professional, international dancers, choreographers and musicians. The 17th edition follows under the theme of "Les nouvelles mythologies". From 22/11. Tel. 04 92 99 33 83

GRASSE (G1) Until 14/02/12 Exhibition. 'Parfums et Amour'. The International Museum of Perfume in Grasse hosts exhibition on the theme of love. Tel. 04 97 05 58 11 MARSEILLE (A1) Until 19/02/12 Art Exhibition. Work by the French painter Louis Valtat. This exhibition features paintings of the beautiful coast and countryside of the Riviera. At Palais des Arts. Tel. 04 91 42 51 50 NICE (I2) Until 12/02/12 Exhibition. 'Une décennie d'acquisitions'. The exhibition showcases a collection of artwork by Henri Matisse, over the past decade. In particular the piece 'La piscine', donated by his family to the musuem. Tel. 04 93 53 40 53

MONACO (L2) Until 30/11 Exhibition. Photographs of Mali by Sebastien Darasse in collaboration with the CroixRouge Monégasque and the Fondation Albert II. Tel. +377 92 16 61 16 NICE (I2) Until 11/12 Exhibition. "Mythologie Urbaines." More than 300 original works on the theme of urban landscape. 10am to 6pm. At the MAMAC Museum of modern and contemporary Art. Free entrance. Tel. 04 97 13 42 01 SIGNES (B1) Until 30/11 Adventure day out. ‘Eden Aventure'. An unforgettable experience, climb the outdoor activities in the Signes forest. Professionals are on hand to help. Tel. 04 94 90 68 68

Tue 15th Alex & Churchill Consulting, a joint venture between Norman Alex, international recruitment company and Judy Churchill, well-known lifestyle consultant, assisted by Michael Pellegrino from BeFit Monaco, offer a unique and holistic course demonstrating how to be successful at work, whilst leading a healthy lifestyle. On 15/11/2011. 6.30pm-8pm. At the CREM, Le Mirabeau, 1, av. Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo 98000. Tel. +377 97 70 61 31. Until 29/01/12 Exhibition. 'Zeste d'orange dans son indignation cyan'. Work by two winners of the 2010 'Young Creation Prize' in Nice. Supported by the Bernar Venet foundation, Eun Young Lee and Jean-Baptiste Engler. 10am to 6pm. At la Galerie de la Marine. Entrance free. Tel. 04 93 91 92 90 MENTON (M2) Until 31/12 Exhibition. A collection of works from the artist and sculptor Kim Boulukos. Tel. 04 93 35 49 71 Until 07/05/12 Exhibition. Launch at Jean Cocteau museum of the Séverin Wunderman with collection by Jean Sabrier of 60 paintings, photographs and video animations. 10am to 6pm. Tel. 04 93 57 72 30

TANNERON (G1) Until 31/12 Honey tasting. Experience honey in many different waysthe plants, the flowers and, of course, tasting the end result! 3pm. Tel. 04 93 60 66 32 TOULON (C2) Until 4/12 Exhibition. Enjoy the “Body and soul” art exhibition with contemporary artists Lawrence Carroll, Gotthard Graubner and Sean Scully. From Saturday 8th October at 10am to 6pm. Tel. 04 94 18 53 09 VENCE (I1) Until 04/12 Exhibition. 'Le nouveau monde de l'art haïtien'. With a plastic art workshop for children every Wednesday from 3pm to 5pm. At the Musée de Saint-Paul. Tel. 04 93 32 86 95

Events on

the Italian Riviera FINALE LIGURE (R2) 05/11 Antique and craft market. “Fiera delle vecchie cose ed antichi mestieri”. From 9am to 7.30pm. Also 6/11 and 3rd/4th December. IMPERIA (P2) 05/11 Theatre. “Festival Nazionale d'Arte drammatica”. At Teatro Cavour. From 9pm. There will be a changing programme throughout the month. Also 12/11, 19/11, 3/12 and 11/12. PERINALDO (M1) 05/11 Star gazing. “Osservazione Astronomica”. At the Observatory Cassini. From 9pm. CERIALE (R2) 06/11 Chestnut festival. “Castagnata Alpina”. Starting from 3pm. CELLE LIGURE (R1) 06/11 Market. “Celle Borgo in Festa”. Big market and festival in the old town. From 9am to 7pm. SANREMO (N2) 08/11 Opera. The showing of ‘Madama Butterfly’ as part of the Festival Puccini in Torre del Lago. 8pm. At the Cinema Centrale, Via Matteotti. GENOA (R1) 11/11 Theatre. The showing of “Peter Pan” the musical. From 9pm. At the Teatro Politeama Genovese. Until 13/11. SAVONA (R2) 12/11 Theatre. "Musical Farce: Il cappello di paglia di Firenze von N.Rota". From 8.30pm. At Teatro Chiabrera, Piazza Diaz. Also 13th November at 3.30pm.

VADO LIGURE (R1) 12/11 Antique Fair. Car boot sale and christmas market. At Piazza Cavour. From 8am to 4pm. Also 10th December LOANO (R1) 13/11 Car boot sale. 9am. At the Arcade in Corso Europa. Also 11th November. GENOA (R1) 14/11 Chamber concert. The Genova Giovine Orchestra. 8.30pm. Jerusalem Quartet. At the Teatro Carlo Felice. SANREMO (N2) 17/11 Festival "Jubilmusic". The International Christian Music Festival. At the Teatro Ariston, Teatro Ritz, Via Matteotti. All day. IMPERIA (P2) 18/11 Festival. "Olioliva". Olive oil festival. Calata Cuneo, Ortsteil Oneglia. From 3pm to 8pm. Until 20th November SANREMO (N2) 19/11 Wedding Exhibiton. "Sanremo Sposi." All day. At Palafiori, Corso Garibaldi. Also 20/11. FINALE LIGURE (R2) 20/11 Concert. "Percorsi Sonori". From 5pm. At the Auditorium Santa Caterina. SANREMO (N2) 20/11 Concert."Concerto d'Aranjuez" with the Sanremo symphony orchestra. From 5pm. SAVONA (R2) 24/11 Opera. ‘Campana di vetro’. 9pm. Nuovo di Valleggia.

GENOA (R1) 26/11 The Genoa Indoor Enduro Motocross World Championship. From 8pm. FINALE LIGURE (R2) 27/11 Concert. "Percorsi Sonori". Series of Chamber concerts. From 5pm. At the Auditorium Santa Caterina, URBE (R1) 27/11 Christmas market. All day. In District Martina. GENOA (R1) 29/11 "Zucchero" in Concert. From 9pm. At the Stadium 105. Also 30th November. SAVONA (R2) 02/12 Concert. ‘Orchestra Sinfonica di Savona’ perform "Italia, un buon motivo!" From 9pm. At the Teatro Chiabrera. GENOA (R1) 03/12 "The nutcracker." with the Royal Moscow Ballet. From 8.30pm. At the Teatro Carlo Felice. Until 11th December. MALLARE (R1) 06/12 Market. "Fiera di San Nicolò". All day. At Piazza Odorico del Carretto. GENOA (R1) 07/12 Christmas Fair. With festive food and gifts. "Natalidea". All day. Until 18th December. PIANA CRIXIA (R1) 08/12 “Sagra del Torrone”. Tasty sweet festival. Stalls with handmade products, gifts and a selection of sweets to sample. From 2pm to 7pm.

Our events calendar is updated daily! To ensure you don’t miss any of the exciting events happening on the Riviera this month, scan the QR Code on the left and be directed instantly to our web site. It’s that easy. www.rivieratimes.com


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ART & CULTURE

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NOVEMBER 2011

Marseille-Provence 2013 Deputy Director Ulrich Fuchs shares the highs and lows of organising the region’s largest cultural event of the decade

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reparations are well underway for the highly anticipated artistic event of the decade - the 2013 European Capital of Culture. All year long, hundreds of cultural and artistic events will take place throughout the Provence region, including Aix-enProvence, Arles, Martigues, Salon de Provence and Marseille. There will be an eclectic agenda featuring dance, music, visual arts, theatre, exhibitions, street art, conferences, literature, digital art and cuisine. The sheer scale of the project makes it incredibly challenging for organisers. Amid the current economic climate, one city has even been forced to pull out of the event, taking its millions of euros worth of funding with it. We caught up with project leader Ulrich Fuchs to discuss some of the hurdles he's had to overcome, and what visitors can expect from this exciting event.

Only 15 months to go until the start of your European Capital of Culture year. What is it all about and what is next in terms of all the preparations? The programme is divided into four areas (see box), and involves the promotion of major events and key issues to a variety of age groups. Our main purpose for this year is to develop our programe. Throughout 2013, we will be creating a balance between artistic and cultural events. A total of 2,200 projects have been submitted, we have already selected around 200, and hope to have a final collection of 500 projects in 2013. On 13th January 2012, we will release a preliminary programe containing around 70 per cent of the final public projects we will present. Critics have complained that the preparations weren't going as well as they should be. What is your response? It is obvious there is some anxiety in Marseille, all of

Ulrich Fuchs has a hard job to do

which is normal. And given the turmoil in some Arab countries, I am glad that we have some time left to finish things off. Many projects we have planned are developed in collaboration with Arab Mediterranean states, so we will not receive the final agreements before mid 2012, when the situation has hopefully stabilised. We also want to leave the doors open for other creative ideas that might come our way. Why has the list of collaborating cities changed? Toulon is no longer taking

part. The economic crisis has shaken Toulon so much that the city cannot afford to invest in the project. This has left us with a loss of 7.5 million euros in the budget. The remaining 91 million may still seem like a lot of money, but with a catchment area of 2.5 million people stretching so wide, it will be tight. We want to save the budget as much as possible. A fringe festival has been announced for the event, does this worry you? No, I think it's great. It's important to have a wide range of things going on. It helps us ask questions like: how does a project like this contribute to changing things like population, like Rue de la Republique for example? Is a city capable of planning urban developments instead of being left to its own resources? Can a project like MarseilleProvence 2013 trigger discussions like this? The artistic projects that are not accepted at MP 2013 regroup into a

fringe festival, and if they manage to take that place, then that is great. Which project is the most important for you personally? For me, it is the story of the history of Marseille. Many European refugees were found during the period of fascism in Marseille. 2013 will mark the 70th anniversary of the Nazi destruction of the historic district of Marseille, 'Panier'. Meanwhile, we will also be celebrating the 50th anniversary of the FrancoGerman Friendship Treaty in 2013 (traité d'Elysee). What a remarkable coincidence. What is your overall feeling about Marseille and the project? At first I was very sceptical about the territorial scope of the project. It is very demanding and difficult to organise. There are also large cultural differences between cities, and some projects may not be to everyone's taste. Each city or town contributes

THE FOUR SEASONS Winter: Marseille-Provence acceuille le monde: Under the motto "Marseille-Provence welcomes the world" - they start Capital of Culture Year with a spectacular opening. Spring: Watching radieuse. A "shining" city dedicated to the wealth of experimental art forms and events. Summer: L'art prend l'air. Street art, open-air concerts, films and various festivals take center stage. Autumn: Revelations. Regional culture, cuisine and a diverse programe for children and adolescents. in a different way to financing the 2013 project and, of course, want a fair return for what they invest. Despite the amount of people involved however, there have been no real conflicts so far. Amazingly, I also don't think, as of yet, there will be any construction delays for the event. Incidentally, the opening of the Capital of Culture will be held on 12th and 13th January 2013 in Aix-en-Provence, Arles and Marseilles - with a symbolic chime of the clock at 8.13pm. We hope that the number 13 brings us luck! Silke Seehars & Louise Kirby

Developing a family legacy

Château Malherbe, close to the Porquerolles islands and Port Cros, offers an array of tempting wines and public visits by appointment. It is situated in picturesque Bormes les Mimosas

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ituated at Bormes les Mimosas near the official summer residence of French Presidents, sits Château Malherbe, originally an old Fort Brégançon farm. A rare gem set between the sea and the hills, the vineyard covers just under 35 acres of land that enjoys an optimum amount of sunshine and wind both day and night. For four generations, the Ferrari family has been developing their family legacy. The grape harvest is all done manually by the family themselves and is only carried out when the grapes reach

their optimum ripeness levels. The fruit is thoroughly sorted through, before the vinification process begins. White and Rosé wines are left to mature in vats, while Red wines are matured in large oak casks in an underground cellar. This year's harvest began on 13th September, where the intricate process to create rich and mature wines lasted until 12th October. The vines are planted in a rare soil consisting of blue mica-schist and granite seams combined with clay. No chemicals are used during the process, only natural agricultural methods.

For white wine lovers, the Cuvée Pointe du Diable is one to try. With its voluptuous and fresh characteristics, the aromas of exotic fruits make it the perfect accompaniment to fish dishes. The White Malherbe Cuvée is another must. Matured over many months, a tipple of this favourite white is all you need with fresh goat's cheese or a rack of veal. With the family's determination to keep this regional delight alive, Château Malherbe remains an idyllic wine producing gem of the Mediterranean. www.chateau-malherbe.com


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LIGURIA NOVEMBER 2011

Paradise at any time of year

Archivio Agenzia In Liguria

ozione turistica "in Liguria" and the Regione Liguria has finally put forward a programme that takes full advantage of all the finer points of this beautiful coastline and its unspoilt hinterland. The motto couldn't be anything else: "You will lose your heart here." The region is only a short

Typically Ligurian - rich green pesto made from fresh basil

drive from the south of France and Monaco. It was long seen only as a summer location, but people's need for peace and quiet, solitude and clean air means that an increasing number of visitors are now coming to the area at all times of the year. The informative web site www.turismoinliguria.it, which is also available in English, provides visitors with a choice of different offers as well as areas in which to stay: For example, the section 'Hamlets to be savoured' includes the offer of an overnight stay in a B&B for just 50 euros per person including breakfast and dinner. Those who like to get out and about in the fresh air can also choose between different activities such as bicycle tours, hikes and more. In addition, there are suggestions for Christmas holidays and special occasions. Whether you like culture or fine food, there is something

Beautiful bright colours - Varigotti at sunset

Archivio Agenzia In Liguria

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nyone who has experienced Liguria on a sublime autumn or winter's day, when the sun sparkles in an almost unreal blue sky, will forever have a longing for this almost unspoilt stretch of land. It is therefore fitting that the Agenzia Regionale di prom-

Archivio Agenzia In Liguria

Liguria has so much to offer, including a website in English

Clean air and tranquility at Bergeggi beach makes jogging fun!

for you in the region's small medieval towns. Or there is the city of Genoa, the 2004 City of Culture, with its treasure trove of historical sites and Europe's largest aquarium. The www.turismoinliguria.it web site is easy to use: simply click on the area you wish to see and you will be shown the best offers including a map of the area and (mostly) sunny weather forecasts. Now, it’s time to make the most of Liguria!


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ANTIBES & CANNES

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NOVEMBER 2011

The French connection Media and mythologies Exchanging Newport Beach for the Antibes seaside Dance festival takes to the red carpet in the film capital

Seduced by Antibes: Carole Boller is the town’s artist-in-residence

old Antibes, its people and the beaches lit up the walls. One piece features a street cleaner with a large teddy bear on his cart, the subject proudly posing for the photograph. Many new friends were made, despite her limited French; proof that art breaks down barriers. Like artists over the ages, Carole marvels at the luminous, reflective light here: "The sea is a crystalline turquoise unlike the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean. I'm more relaxed working by the Mediterranean as there are no

tides or waves to watch out for like at Newport. It's silky to swim in, too." With a "sizzling hot" social calendar, she is endlessly fascinated by the age of places she visits, relishes delicious meals, and marvels at the locals singing and dancing: "It seems surreal, like a movie setting." Struck by the effect history and war has had on artists' work, Carole makes the most of the wealth of museums here. The US, she feels, is "a step or two behind France artistically." By happy coincidence, Newport Beach is twinned with Antibes, and Carole has had a lot of contact with the association. "When I go home, in my role as an arts' commissioner, I plan to set up an artist-in-residence scheme and continue the rewarding exchange between the towns. "I'll miss walks around the old streets and my new friends when I leave," she says wistfully, and echoes the words of all those seduced by the Côte d'Azur: "I'll be back." Jill Levison

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tars in the world of dance, both nationally and internationally, will come together this month for one of the most eagerly awaited choreographic events in France - the International Dance Festival in Cannes. The biennial event will, for the first time, be entrusted to Frédéric Flamand, Director of the Ballet National de Marseille, who takes over from Yorgos Loukos for two festivals. This year's theme, 'New Mythologies', arises from German philosopher Peter Sloterdijk, who said: "The sum of all the information and all the stories conveyed by our media produce a mythological effect." According to Mr Flamand, this year's theme "has the advantage of making us think about what is specifically human, about the way dance reclaims the body, about

© Barak

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ravelling is like a love affair, full of mystery and adventure," says Californian Carole Boller, who was selected as artist-inresidence for Antibes by a Town Hall committee. Speaking to The Riviera Times on the terrace of Villa Fontaine in Safranier, the sparkle in her eyes shows that this trip is no exception. "Look at all of this", she says dreamily, indicating the vivid magenta bougainvillea tumbling down ancient stone walls, the sweeping sea view and the nearby house where Kazantzakis of Zorba the Greek lived. A great believer in education and art stimulating communication between countries, Carole's stated aim during her four-month residency is not only to capture the beauty of Antibes on canvas, but also to bring the USA and France closer together and help them understand each other better. Her recent exhibition at Bains Douches Gallery illustrated how successful she has been in achieving these objectives. Bright, whimsical paintings of

Members of the Ballet National de Marseille, performing Moving Target

those characteristics which will always set us apart from machines and images, and about how a new humanism may be defined at a moment when perceptions of identity are changing at the same time as the organisation of space."

The 2011 programme will see dance companies from Marseille, Paris, Spain, Italy, Africa, Japan, United Kingdom, Canada, Scotland, and Belgium take to the stage between 22nd and 27th November. C. Tanti

Allez hop, Alley-oop! Antibes' basketball team gets a boost in time for new stadium

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he appointment of new coach Julien Espinosa for Antibes' professional basketball team Olympique Antibes Juan-lesPins Côte d'Azur (OAJLP) - is expected to create a winning squad by the time they move to a new stadium in 2013. The team currently plays in France's national second division, and despite two narrow defeats at the start of the season, OAJLP hopes the likes of US players Cecil Brown and Jeff Allen, alongside the more experienced French veteran Steeve Essart, will restore the club to the glory days of the 70s and 90s.

Their new home has been under construction since September 2011 in the Trois Moulins area of Antibes, and is due for completion in the spring of 2013. The stadium will host the club's home matches and hopefully increase attendance. Jean Leonetti, Mayor of Antibes and a driving force behind the development, also hopes the stadium will become known as a cultural venue, welcoming musical concerts like the famous Paris stadium at Bercy. The new structure will take the form of a pebble with a sleek, low profile and will cost

an estimated 22.5 million euros, of which the town will directly pay 20 per cent. It will also house a dojo and a trampoline hall. The site's proximity to the Antibes motorway exit was chosen for its convenience, and to help attract capacity crowds to the 5,000-seat venue. Until their new home is ready, home matches are held at the 1,300 all-seater Salle Salusse-Santoni, commonly known as Salle Foch (boulevard Foch), on Friday and Tuesday nights. Places are 5 euros for concessions, 11 euros for adults. O. Duncan

Orchestra unites young and old

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rchestral marvel L'Espérance de Cannes is set to delight its home town throughout November. With an exciting collection touring the region, the group appears to be going from strength to strength. First established in 1922, the Cannes-based fanfare orchestra has over 30 musicians from 7 to 77 years old. Its president Georget Daumas, is keen to keep the group going, saying he is convinced that what the orchestra has is particularly special. "With the internet and music technology evolving, it always seems a bit strange to see young and old performing together. But that is what makes us so unique. It is the people in the group that

L’Esperance de Cannes in action throughout November

keep us going, that keep us performing." Pierre-Antoine Gau, trumpeter for L'Espérance de Cannes, has been a member of the group for six years. He told The Riviera Times, "For me, it is a hobby but I absolutely love it. We rehearse together every Friday for two hours. There is a

lot of dedication and fun among the group." Notable dates include Friday 11th November at the Cérémonie de l'Armistice and Saturday 12th November at Aubade in Cannes, where the group will be joined by l'Harmonie de Pierre-Bénite from Lyon. L. Kirby


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DECORATION SPECIAL

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NOVEMBER 2011

The new Hermes A British classic gets a rebranding from a famous name that is on the rise

Farrow & Ball gets the home it deserves

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One of the 20 suites that Linley has designed for London's worldrenowned Claridge's hotel. Bedhead, side tables and television cabinet are made from American walnut with inlays of Macassar ebony and sycamore stringings for a luxurious finish

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arlier this year, Jamie Edmiston of Edmiston & Company invested in the luxury furniture and accessories company Linley, the one founded by the Queen's nephew Viscount Linley. The international head of the Edmiston superyacht services group has since been growing the brand, and plans to achieve a new British 'Hermes'. "People who know me well will know my real enthusiasm and interest is in building brands," says Mr Edmiston. "I wanted to look at something a little different that I could do outside of yachting." The Linley brand was started over a quarter of a century ago, and the company has since established itself as a leader in British crafstmanship. Using a combination of traditional and innovative techniques, Linley create unique furniture pieces and accessories, each designed inhouse and handmade in the United Kingdom by highly skilled craftsmen. Their designs range from reinterpretations of classics to boldly innovative pieces.

"There is no doubt that Linley is one of the great British brands - however I firmly believe that there is enormous potential to grow the brand both in the UK and internationally," enthuses Mr Edmiston. So far, consumers have seen a Linley Bentley collaboration, with a limited edition of 10 Continental Flying Spur motorcars, and the refurbishment of the company's Pimlico Road, Belgravia store in London. Mr Edmiston said that his ultimate ambition is to turn the Linley brand into the "British Hermes or British Luis Vuitton" - both of which began life as creators of bespoke products. "We will, I hope, grow the business across all sectors. There are some exciting times to come." Riviera collection Linely recently launched a Riviera Collection, inspired by the glamorous yachting world of the Côte d'Azur. In full hand-blown lead crystal, santos rosewood and American walnut, the collection exudes sophistication.

n 2005, Lucia Emanuelli and Laurent Cadario opened Jolie Maison Droguerie, the same day the family celebrated the first birthday of their daughter Milla. But what they opened was a far cry from the rundown hardware store that had existed for more than half a century. After a loving restoration, Jolie Maison Decoration was transformed into an 'emporium', filled with up-market products and bigname suppliers. Word of mouth brought more and more elegant customers to the store, and they soon were selling Farrow & Ball English paints and Mercadier béton ciré (coloured cement finishes). "Architects would walk in and seem troubled, then happily surprised to find they had indeed found the correct shop for

these products!" says Lucia, "Some laughingly teased us saying in Paris they were used to going to BHV and found it 'quaint' coming into our cosy shop for Farrow & Ball." For this reason, they jumped at the opportunity to buy the old book shop across the road. "It was the chance to finally give F&B the home it deserved," smiled Lucia. Five years later, Lucia and Laurent opened Jolie Maison Décoration. Progressing to a store selling beautiful products for interior decorating was a natural step for this couple, who had themselves already renovated some properties and overseen various projects for clients. Farrow & Ball was at last given beautiful new shelves, while Little Greene and Designers' Guild paints were brought in to create a balance in customer choice.

Jolie Maison Décoration offers a variety of quality products for your home decorating project

The Mercadier coloured cement was also given a better showcase - its two finishes are displayed on the front and back showroom

floors, and the colour cards have finally been taken out of their boxes and displayed in a beautiful industrial shelving unit by Chehoma. A selection of lovely handmade drawer knobs, clothes hooks, picture frames, and vases can be found at the back of the store, and a lighting selection is available in the middle, with beautiful chandeliers and contemporary lights by Muno, Zenza, Market Set, and Garden Trading to name but a few. Little did she know, but Lucia was pregnant with her second child whilst planning the opening of their new store, and on May 17th this year little Keane was born. Lucia and Laurent are always happy to offer complimentary colour and decorating advice. 8 Avenue Auber, Nice Tel: 04 93 04 08 43

Recreating that Mediterranean charm

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f you are drawn to the kind of interior design that features warm textures with aspects of blue, similar to the sea and the sky, you will most probably be a fan of Mediterranean home decoration. And if so, it is important to remember that this type of interior design is based on specific regions of the world. Whether it be recreating the sensual feel of southern Spain or keeping it classic for accents of Italian chic, fabricating that southern European ambience doesn't have to be a difficult task. When introducing a Mediterranean inspired

interior to your home, it is vital to create an atmosphere that resembles nature. One of the key aspects of their culture and architecture are the beautiful colours that stem from the outdoors. From the deep blues of the ocean to warm terracotta tones, it is important to incorporate glimpses of both of these for the perfect decorating base. Meanwhile, lavender, yellows and hues of deep rusts and creamy tan can also compliment your home's interior. And for that left over paint, try painting plant pots or small items of furniture for a fantastic finish. In terms of decoration, mosaic tiles, quarry and other

rustic yet modern finishes are key. For example, a popular look amongst Mediterranean's when recreating floors is terracotta tiles patterned with simple flowers like daisies. Why not adapt these ideas to your mirrors, tabletops, outdoor furniture and bathrooms for a look that is 'Old World' all the way. Sharing nature and camaraderie amongst friends and family is synonymous with the Med. The people embrace entertaining and promote a love for homes, as well as making it a comfortable place for all invited. To recreate this vibe in an outdoor space, ensure

comfortable and plentiful seating. Materials such as wrought iron and ornamental metals are traditional, but more modern is the use of these in a streamline form. As far as indoor furniture is concerned, furnishing pieces should not be overly elegant. Solid rich wood makes a nice touch, complimented with simplistic accessories, like a painting, a mirror or an intricately designed candle. So, whether it is a formal feel, a rustic ambience or just a casual makeover that you are looking for, a little Mediterranean interior inspiration may be just the solution. Lousie Kirby


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DECORATION SPECIAL NOVEMBER 2011

Antiques market threat Why dealers are struggling to survive

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t is hard to put a firm figure on it, but after we talked to a number of antique dealers it's clear the once booming market for antiques on the French Riviera is suffering. All those we spoke to estimate that the drop in numbers is as high as 90 per cent since the heyday of the 1990s, from Marseille through to Menton. Even renowned, very prestigious dealers are fighting for survival in the region's antique markets.

Not so much demand for this

It doesn’t matter what your style is, so long as it feels like home

A range of modern furniture designs will be on show this November

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o-it-yourself lovers and professional designers unite: this November marks the 44th annual Salon Meuble Maison Decoration (SADECA), the French Riviera's largest home furnishing and decoration event. The fair will bring together more than 30 French and European designers to showcase their work in an innovative and inspirational environment. From the 5th to 13th November, the Palais des Expositions at Nice Acropolis will open its doors to professionals and public alike, presenting the latest trends in design. Visitors will also be able to enjoy a daily 5.30pm lottery in the 'Design Corner', with

furniture, decorations and a host of other prizes to be won. Dozens of home improvement professionals will be on

designs have excited the biggest names in fashion and architecture. Close by will be Pierre Paulin and Pascal Mourgue, with a retrospective of their work and creations. Building on the success of their first collaboration with the School of Applied Art in Nice, event organisers are again inviting future designers to get involved. Their ambitious project centres on the theme of 'Le Totem Vegetal', and offers a space of peace and greenery in the heart of a bustling fair. Ensuring the

Be creative, flashy, or conservative, the decoration fair is all about celebrating individuality

hand to meet and discuss issues like heating, windows, fireplaces and flooring. Among the exhibitors will be special guest Ora-Ïto, a young prodigy whose sleek

event is kept as 'green' as possible will be Clean Energy Planet, who will also be promoting eco-friendly travel around the Alpes-Maritimes region. Visitors are asked to

Lighting ideas abound

complete a questionnaire after their visit, querying the perceived carbon footprint of the event. It's each to their own at the decoration fair: chic, sleek, techno, ethno, just married, creative, flashy, conformist anything goes so long as it feels like home. Admission is 6 euros for adults, 2 euros for under 18s and free for under 12s. There are also a host of bonuses on offer, including free entry for women all day on 10th November, and a free children's garden for 3 to 10 year olds on weekends, evenings and Wednesday 9th.

ADVERTORIAL

There are several reasons for the drop in business, and a key factor is the generation gap. The traditional client base of mainly elderly people have more than enough knickknacks in their homes, while young people are averse to buying ornaments that will gather dust, carpets that may harbour fleas and glasses that

won't go in the dishwasher. Even the market for stamps and coins is on the decline, with prices down on what they were in our grandfathers’ day. Our interviewees unanimously agreed that there was still demand for top quality, expensive art objects, such as African sculpture, Art Deco and Art Nouveau articles and paintings, almost exclusively to be found in auction houses or antique markets in Paris. Prices hover around what they were five, even 10 years ago, but few are willing to pay more. Those who once owned a small antiques shop on the tourist town high streets now make do with a stall at the local flea market, thus avoiding costly shop rents and taxes. For their part the flea markets have increased in number and migrated to "green field" sites, although customer numbers have not blossomed as expected. Auntie's heirlooms no longer appeal as most people are seeking almost-new designer clothes at bargain prices. However, any dealer lucky enough to secure a stall in Saint-Tropez’ Place des Lices can be sure of a livelihood as people are still prepared to pay top dollar. The same goes for centrally-located markets such as Nice (Saleya), Antibes (Old Port), La Capte (Var) and the Jas de Robert between Saint-Tropez and Grimaud. RL

DIY heaven in Nice


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REAL ESTATE & BUSINESS

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NOVEMBER 2011

Protect your pool Property expert Richard Whiting explains how to ensure your favourite summer pastime continues for years to come

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Financial Institution

Damaged swimming pools can be costly. Make sure you start your maintenance programme now

the filtering pump can be running almost continuously, followed by several hours a day in autumn and spring. In winter, the filtration pump should be set for a few hours every night when the water is at its coldest (prohibitively expensive heated pools apart) to stop the water and the pump freezing. To empty or not Changing the water (emptying the pool) every season is not advisable with shell and liner pools, particularly the former. Shell pools are bedded down with the weight of water on a layer of sand when installed and emptying them encourages their instability. If you do empty a pool take care not to re-fill it during a water ban. An average-sized pool (10 x 4m) contains approximately 45,000 litres of water. Natural evaporation effectively means you replace the water every two or three years.

Contact Thomas Nielsen Peter Andersen Camille Marne

A good standby A strong booster dose periodically of chlorine in winter, when nobody's swimming or before you go away, using chlore choc pastilles is another option to running the filtration system. The inlet jets, through which water would otherwise be filtered, should be blocked off, with the upper inlet above a reduced water level, and a rigid, safety-regulation cover fitted over the pool to prevent the water freezing. Price guide Chlore choc pastille: around 22 euros for a 5kg tub Pompe filtrante (filtration pump): pumping 3.5 litres per hour, around 200 euros Skimmer filtre piscine (pool filter): around 30 euros Robot piscines (automatic, pool floor and side cleaners): different categories available, with prices starting around a few hundred euros. Richard Whiting

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G, F DK E, S, N

Blevins Franks participates in marathon

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ince the 1980s, Blevins Franks has been helping people understand and prepare for the taxation and financial planning issues they face on moving from the UK to France. They also lend a helping hand to those who have nothing to do with tax and financial planning - their charities. This month, the team at Blevins Franks will get from behind their desks, swap high-heels for sneakers, ties for sweat bands, and take part in the Nice-Cannes Marathon, raising money for their chosen charity - the Fondation Lenval. For over 12 years, Blevins Franks has had an office on the Côte d'Azur, and the company says it is important that it be involved with, and support, the local community. They in fact have two chosen charities,

RFP - RIVIERA FINANCIAL PLANNING SARL

LE CENTRE d'Information sur la Prévention des Difficultés des Entreprises (CIP) launched its services to the business world of Nice early October 2011. The association aims to offer a helping hand to companies and entrepreneurs facing difficulty across the French Riviera during the current tough economic climate. With over 50 established organisations in France, CCI Nice Côte d'Azur were happy to welcome the help of CIP in the city. Michel Papet, CIP President has announced twice monthly meetings on the first and third Thursday of each month. The gatherings will also encourage business owners to discuss their difficulties with experts and legal officials free of charge.

10 unusual financial products RFP Director Yves Derrien talks investments

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verybody has heard about savings, stocks or bonds, but banks are actually very innovative. We would like to introduce you to 10 types of investment you are probably not familiar with. Here are the first five. Next month, we will present the next five. 1. Bear market funds These unusual mutual funds, which can be included in a PEA or a life insurance policy by French tax residents, try to replicate the opposite performance of a specific index. For instance, if the Eurostoxx or Dow Jones loses 1% on a trading day, the value of the bear fund will gain more or less +1%. Thus, buying this kind of fund is a way to make a profit when markets drop. 2. Emerging bonds in foreign currencies

China, Brazil or India should become economic giants in the years to come. Their currencies have strengthened in the last decade and big companies like Lenovo, Embraer or Tata Motors are now emerging. Some mutual funds invest specifically on these countries' and companies' bonds in local currencies. 3. Convertible bonds The bondholder of a convertible bond can exercise an option to convert it into stocks usually in the same company. It is a useful way to invest in a company, profit from the rise of the stock price by investing in a more stable asset, with a recurrent coupon and a payback of the initial investment if the option is not exercised. 4. Total return funds Many funds try to replicate or

Interest p.a. Tel / Fax. Tel: +33 (0)4 93 39 39 00 Fax: +33 (0)4 93 39 39 02 Email:info@jyskebank.fr www.jbpb.fr

M O R T G A G E Financial Institution

the second is ARSLA, Association pour la Recherche sur la Sclérose Latérale Amyotrophique. In addition, they regularly sponsor a local charity golf day, as well as various expatriate and local charities throughout the year. The Côte d'Azur office is not alone in its charitable ways. Most of the company's offices in Europe support charities in their area. If you would like to support the Blevins Franks team, you can sponsor them by posting a cheque (payable to SARL BFI) directly to their office or pay online via PayPal (www.paypal.com), with the payment made to: riviera@blevinsfranks.com

Free help for businesses

VARIABLE

FIXED

3 months variable rates 4,28% EUR USD 3,11% GBP 3,67% CHF 2,74% Yen 2,90%

3 months interest period. 5-35 years with max10 years interest only. Min. loan e 250,000.

Loan Ratio Max. 65% of valuation. Up to 100% with extra collateral

beat a specific index by investing in a specific class of assets. In opposition, total return funds are decorrelated from the stock indexes and try to give a targeted return each year. To do so, the fund manager may invest in whatever he believes to be the best investment. 5. Inflation-linked bonds Most of the time, when inflation goes up, interest rates go up too, and already issued bonds lose value. This is not the case for inflationlinked bonds, which deliver a return directly linked to inflation. These kind of bonds allow an investor to protect himself from a rise in inflation. Independent Financial Advisor and Mortgage Broker Tel: +33 (0)4 93 00 11 26 info@rfp.fr / www.rfp.fr

Sanctioning Mortgage Process Insurance Fees 7 days

No

0,25 % min. e 750

B R O K E R S

Contact

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Mike Lorimer

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Tel: +33 (0)4 93 74 73 35 Mob: +33 (0)6 21 85 84 42 info@mikelorimer.com www.mikelorimer.com

Specialising in helping international clients obtain mortgages, re-mortgages and equity releases for French properties.

Yves Derrien

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Tel: +33 (0)4 93 00 11 71 info@rfp.fr www.rfp.fr

Real estate financing in France provided by European banks and unit-linked life insurance from a range of European insurance companies. Specialist international financial advice, from a qualified IFA, regarding relocation from anywhere in Europe to Switzerland, France or Monaco.

Tel / Fax.

Description

ADVERTORIAL

ith our 'Indian summer' just behind us, owners of permanently installed swimming pools should now be starting their autumn, winter and spring maintenance programme to ensure their pool continues to give them relatively trouble-free enjoyment at a minimum cost for years to come. Proper maintenance of pools should be budgeted for - at the very least, several hundred euros a year (the price of a low-cost holiday break) to cover repairs, new equipment and treatment products. Depending on the type of pool - concrete walled and bottomed with decorative stone walls (construction traditionnelle), PVC/polyester shell (coque), or plastic-coated liner (liner) - there are various considerations. The most durable pools, which can last a lifetime, are the reinforced concrete (béton armé) type. A 10-year guarantee is the minimum period acceptable, so if you're buying a property with a concrete pool make sure you obtain the guarantee certificate. A shell pool also normally has a 10year guarantee, as do liner pools with a double thickness liner (liner armé). Note that single liners 'only' last around 10 years so they will not have a 10-year guarantee. Regular filtration is common to all types of pools. Older properties often have mature trees that may be fine for shade but a real pain when leaves or pine needles are blown off or shed. The height of summer, not autumn, when the pool is used daily, is when

Supporting a good cause


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GOURMET NOVEMBER 2011

Making sushi is child’s play

Ducasse book promotes Riviera has discovered during his time here. While J'aime Monaco highlights many fine dining restaurants, it also goes so far as recommending a slice of pissaladière from Veziano in Antibes and traditional Nicois cuisine at Merenda in Vieux Nice. The book is published in French and costs 100 euros.

Food lovers’ dream in Monte Carlo Gourmet fair at the ‘Big Tent’ in Fontvieille

Take advantage of cooking demonstrations at this year’s Monte Carlo Gastronomie trade and consumer show, from 25th to 28th November

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oodies - prepare for a sensory overload. It is that time of year again when Monaco hosts the premier exhibition for food and beverage - the Monte-Carlo Gastronomie. Open your senses to a veritable bouquet of flavours, fragrances, food, essences and colours as the finest producers of gastronomy gather under one roof. This year's theme is 'Inspiration for Chefs' (l'inspiration des Chefs) and plenty of inspiration there will be, with a particular focus on culinary delights. The cuisine of France and Europe will be celebrated in all its glory, with traditional gastronomic fare interspersed with innovative, original ideas. Prized wine regions will also be represented. With the cooler temperatures upon us, this is the perfect opportunity to stock up on those indulgent winter foods like foie gras, spicy salamis and cheeses. It's also a great chance to purchase Christmas gifts and festive table decorations. Sweet tooths can revel in tables piled high with delectable handmade chocolates, sugared almonds, biscuits, and that classic Italian favourite - panettone. Take a moment to experience a cooking demonstration, delivered by some of Europe's prized chefs. And when all that shopping

becomes too much, sit back and enjoy a tasty meal - there are usually two or three eateries to meet most people's budget. Trade aspect For those who work in the food and beverage industry, the show offers them a wealth of knowledge and inspiration. Alongside famous chefs and television icons will be directors of restaurants, cafés, bars, hotels and entertainment complexes. There are stands hosted by confectioners, bakers, and meat and fish producing factories. The trade aspect of the show will also provide an opportunity for people to talk to representatives from tourist agencies, health centres, cleaning companies, interior designers, advertising agencies and Embassies. As you would expect from a premier Monaco event, Monte Carlo Gastronomie organisers pride themselves on rigorous selection and diversity, choosing around 120 exhibitors to take part. Even the design and décor of the arena is in harmony with the world of gastronomy, creating a very festive and lively atmosphere. The show will take place 10am-7pm Friday 25th until Monday 28th November at the Espace Fontvieille. Entrance is five euros, or free between 12pm and 2pm, and for children under 12 years.

Although having a Michelin star teacher helps

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ushi refers to vinegared rice prepared with different toppings or fillings. It does not mean raw, sliced seafood, that is sashimi. Those who do not like sashimi can always substitute cooked chicken, vegetables, egg roll the choice is yours. And as the kids at the Mougins school discovered, anyone can make sushi! Ingredients 60g sushi rice 1 ½ times the volume of water 100g rice vinegar 20g salt 60g sugar Nori sheets (seaweed) Filling of your choice Method Wash the rice gently in cold water, drain and repeat the process about five times (or until the water runs almost clear). Put the rice and water in a rice cooker, or if cooking on the stove, bring the water and rice to boil and cover with a lid. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave covered

for 10 minutes. Tip: don't lift the lid! While the rice is cooking, heat the rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a pan until dissolved. Remove and set aside. When the rice is done and still warm, place it in a large bowl and slowly add the vinegar mixture while mixing with a wooden spoon or spatula. The idea is to fold the mixture into the rice. Tip: mix the rice near a fan or window to allow the water to come out of the rice while adding flavour from the vinegar mixture. Place a sheet of seaweed on the rolling mat smooth side down. Dampen your fingers in water and spread a thin layer of rice carefully without squishing it. Leave a twocentimetre margin uncovered at the ends to seal the roll. Lay your chosen fillings lengthwise (cucumber, salmon, prawns, etc) in the first third of the roll. To roll: keeping your thumbs under the mat and fingers on the roll to maintain

Jacques Gantié’s Restaurant recommendations Jacques Gantié is the author of the only regional restaurant guide, Guide Gantié, which is available in English as Gourmet Tables. Both contain hundreds of great insider tips for eating out.

La Zucca Magica

L'Epuisette

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osella Bolmida and Marco Folicaldi have brought their enthusiasm for things vegetal to Nice in a fervor of regional Italian recipes. No vegetarian fanatics here, but an army of delectable dishes. Blette polenta; cheese and roquette loaf; tart napolitan with olives, pinenuts, and raisins; 'maltagliati' with artichokes and chicory; lasagne with creamed pumkpin and parmesan; hazlenut cake with squash confit… It changes every day according to the market and Marco's whim. There's a good selection of Provence and Italian wines. Lunch 17 euros, dinner 29 euros (free for under 12s), around 26/38 euros with wine.

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NICE 4 bis Quai Papacino Tel: 04 93 56 25 27

MARSEILLE Vallon des Auffes Tel: 04 91 52 17 82

TABLE D’EXCEPTION

GRANDE TABLE

n the holy of holies of Marseille fish life, we find L'Epuisette, with its view of the harbour and striking table almost surrounded by the tides. Chef Guillaume Sourrieu is equally unique for his inspiration, rigor and dependability. Rockfish soup; cod aioli with Mées olive oil; bouillabaisse in two phases (soup first, then fish). Bruno Dukan, former sommelier for the Tour d'Argent in Paris, alternates grand crus with small discoveries, bringing an extra element of originality to an establishment where grandeur has no desire to be grandiose. Menus at 60, 95 and 145 euros, wines from 28 euros. Closed Sunday and Monday.

TABLE DE QUALITÉ

COUP DE COEUR

pressure, slowly fold the end of the mat closest to you over the filling and tuck it in. Using the palm of your hands, roll the rest of the roll. Use medium pressure to create a compact tube. Remove the mat from around the roll, place it on a cutting board seam side down, and using a wet, sharp knife, slice the roll in half then in 6 equal pieces. Serve with wasabi, soy sauce and pickled ginger.

©youresto.com

FRANCE'S most famous chef, Alain Ducasse, has released a book revealing his favourite places to dine in the Riviera. Ducasse, who has held 19 Michelin stars throughout his career, says he is in love with the fresh local produce of the south and wanted to introduce his readers to the produce and the people he

©youresto.com

Students at Mougins School took part in a unique cooking class, headed by Michelin star chef Sébastien Chambru from the Moulin de Mougins restaurant, who was teaching them the joys of cooking


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SERVICES & ASSOCIATIONS

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NOVEMBER 2011

T

he International Club of the Riviera keeps you busy this month with 5 diverse events, the highlight being our annual 'Show Time' musical on Saturday the 12th at 7pm at The Grange in Mouans Sartoux: Back to Broadway! Wine Women and Song! Back by popular demand is Colette MarxNielsen, who will lead us on a fabulous toe tapping tour of the great broadway musicals of all time. With a superb international dinner buffet and great wines, this will be a gastro-musical evening to set

the tone for the festive season. On the 4th will be the annual International Schools Speech Contest, our yearly community event hosted by the International School of Monaco with the participation of the International School of Nice, the Mougins School and the Centre International de Valbonne on the 9th at 6pm. There's also the golf outing at the Victoria Golf Club in Valbonne on the 10th followed by lunch at the Club House, and the traditional Beaujolais Nouveau dinner on the 17th. A repeat of our sell out

Winter, sun and distant horizons

ADVERTORIAL

A

unique getaway where the mountains meet the sea; the island of Réunion offers endless panoramic views, making it an idyllic travellers paradise. Whether it be a place to relax, to discover something new or to get sporty on land, or to enjoy activities in the sea or in the air, the island of Réunion is the perfect place for all. Prices start from 1320 euros per person for 10 days and 8 nights. The package includes flights from Toulon via Paris, hotel and breakfast. Further information available at your nearest travel agent.Call now

and take advantage of the lowest rates: www.transavia.com Tel: 08 92 05 88 88

shopping spree event is also taking place, as we head to the designer outlet shopping village of Serravalle in Italy, where you can do your Christmas shopping early and grab winter bargains with up to 70% discounts! Something to look forward to in December is our popular Christmas fusion gala on Saturday the 3rd, the December golf outing on Thursday the 8th (subject to the course being snow free), the outing for the magical Christmas carols concert of the Riviera International Singers on Friday the 9th, and of course our New Years Eve ball to round off 2011! For more details or information: Tel: 04 93 72 11 89 info@internationalclub.fr www.internationalclub.fr

Cute Cosa

Cosa is learning how great love is The Toulon-Hyères airport offers regular flights to the picturesque island of Réunion - the perfect getaway

WHEN COSA was found, she was so thin that a little gust of wind could have blown her away. The medium-sized hunting dog is slowly getting her strength back and learning that there are people that will treat her nicely. In no time, she will become a beautiful, friendly and faithful dog. We are looking for a particularly loving home for Cosa. Tel: +33 (0)4 94 96 89 19 or +49 (0)172 45 55 033, www.joshi2.de

Teaching English to prisoners Carolyn Reynier explains how charity work comes in all forms

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ormation et amitié - une nouvelle chance - this is the motto of Auxilia, an association created in 1926 by Marguerite Rivard, a young paraplegic hospitalised at Berck-sur-Mer in northern France. Her objective? To offer lessons by correspondence to those around her suffering from bone disease, and help combat the lethargy and isolation of the sanatorium, while preparing them for the future; this at a time when there was no concept of social or professional rehabilitation. For those on the margins Today, Auxilia offers free teaching and friendship to vulnerable people marginalised through illness, unemployment, and incarceration. Over 1,000 volunteers work with around 3,000 students, some of whom are studying for national exams, to help prepare them for reinsertion into mainstream life. I wanted to teach English to prisoners. I speak fluent French but have no teaching qualifications, so was assigned four students who already have some knowledge of English but don't wish to take exams. This is how it works: I

receive details of a prisoner who has contacted Auxilia for English lessons, including length of prison sentence but not the crime (although some may tell me in their letters). I also receive their initial English test that I correct and return together with the first lesson, homework, and the all-important accompanying letter, using a pseudonym to ensure anonymity. I took on my first student, a football fan, last summer during the World Cup, so I sent him a BBC Sport report of the England-France match with questions to answer. The Corsican is serving time for drug-related offences so he also received a Guardian article on cannabis legalisation. Scars inside These are not 'ordinary' students - they often bear the scars of scholastic failure and have now failed again in adult life. The psychological, social and cultural distance between student and teacher is huge, but training sessions, prison visits, and conferences all help to better understand their environment. Priorities are sometimes reversed and amitié takes

precedence over formation. A prisoner, serving 17 years and studying with a French university for his English Masters, asked Auxilia for a native English speaker to comment on his English Literature mémoires. We continue to exchange correspondence. Some students fall at the first hurdle (my young football fan soon disappeared off the radar). Nevertheless, for a few weeks they found at Auxilia people who listened to their request, replied, and did their best to help them. Postcards from Corsica I find the work, a few hours each month, very rewarding. I will keep the postcard for Foie gras frais aux pommes-fruit sent by my prisoner from the Gers, and the long letters from the sea-faring Corsican telling me about his island, his children, and his travels. And hopefully they'll keep the knowledge and memories of the friendship and the encouragement they received from Auxilia as they start afresh. Formation et amitié - une nouvelle chance. www.auxilia-formation.org Carolyn Reynier

Ayurveda in Gut Klostermühle Experience a re-birth after nine days of treatent with the experts

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Physiological impurities are removed from the body and the neurophysiological balance gradually restored. After a detailed medical examination to identify imbalances, the combination of internal and external treatments, Ayurvedic cooking, yoga and meditation works holistically, cleansing and ensuring well-being, vitality and health. The Gut Klostermühle spa and health resort is just an hour from Berlin on the shores of Lake Madlitzer, and facilities include a hotel with 80 elegant country house style furnished rooms and suites. It is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. Leisure facilities such as tennis, horse riding, golf, swimming, hunting and fishing are also on offer, while

Lake Madlitzer and a Ayurvedic treatment room below

culture buffs will enjoy a high calibre programme of concerts in the Forum Theatre. We can advise you on an Ayurvedic treatment for you. Tel: +49 (0)33 607 59 29 0 www.gut-klostermuehle.com

ADVERTORIAL

e all know the problem: in our hectic lives there is often little time to eat healthily as we rush from pillar to post relying on high calorie snacks and eating on the hoof. The same goes for exercise, and despite your best intentions a few kilos inevitably gather on the hips, you feel uncomfortable, even your skin starts to protest. A professionally managed Ayurvedic treatment at the idyllic Klostermühle (Brandenburg) estate offers the ideal detoxification treatment, leading to a profound regeneration of cells. The nine-day programme is very effective, but the longer 14-day treatment naturally gives an even better, longer lasting effect. Led by the Ayurvedic specialist doctor from Sri Lanka, Kethakie de SilvaHahn, the Brune Balance & Spa offers the detoxifying Panchakarma anti-stress system, as well as individual services such as the Pizzichilli. The latter is one of the most luxurious and soothing of the Ayurvedic treatments, bathing you in a continuous stream of warm herbalised oil during a massage.


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CLASSIFIEDS NOVEMBER 2011

BOOKS

GARDEN DESIGN

CONSTRUCTION

FOR SALE

FOR SALE AT NICE Relais H Aéroport 1 et 2 FNAC 30 avenue Jean Médecin MONACO Maison de la Presse de Monaco 1bis rue Grimaldi SAINT-TROPEZ Librairie du Port 11 rue des Commerçants

INSURANCE

VILLA SAINT-TROPEZ. Direct from owner. Fully-renovated luxury villa located in a private domaine, 2km from centre of St.Tropez, walking distance to famous pampelonne beach, total1400 sqm, main terraces south facing overlooking vineyards, north view of Chateau Messardiere and Chateau st. Amé. Lounge with sandstone fire place, dining room, kitchen, 4 bedrooms & bathrooms, one bedroom & bathroom in separate wing, laundry room, study, satellite TV and air conditioning. Terraces on two sides of house, swimming pool, petanque, beautifully maintained garden, full privacy. The house is well protected! If you are seriously interested, call 0033.671.064.576

EXPERIENCED and certificated teacher gives private french lessons for children and adults. Informations www.frenchcourse.fr Tel : +33 (0)6 69 37 58 13

FLOORING

CLEANING

JOB OFFER

Experienced Technical draftsperson or Drafting Service Required by International Exhibition Design and Build organization. Autocad and English proficiency required. Salary commensurate with experience. Please send your resume to Aïdan Corish

acorish@tangramint.com with " TDP Cannes " in the subject line

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CONSTRUCTION

LOOKING FOR INTERNATIONAL, well educated and multi talented couple (German /American) seeks position with prestigious private property. Skilled and experienced in areas of property care, gastronomy, as well as business and personnel management. We are creative, sporty and animal loving. German, English and conversational French. Professionalism and discretion first and foremost.

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Subscribe to The Riviera Times!

Subscribe to The Riviera Times!

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HEALTH

TO RENT CANNES France rent studio for holidays Eden beach Residence beginning Plage Midi-Croix Garde near sea swimming pool park info/picts. E-Mail: towersfrance@yahoo.it VILLA with pool in Biot, 4 BR, 3 BA, kitchenette, living room. Available for vacation rental. Professional all-round service available for villa and apartment rentals along the Côte d'Azur. Experienced, reliable and punctual German team. E-Mail lavendel2001@web.de Mobile: +33 (0)6 29 30 83 07 German Mobile: +33 (0)6 26 05 07 43 English, French NICE France rent studio for holidays Royal Luxembourg Palace with Roofswimming pools beginning Promenade next to Palais Mediterannee info/picts. EMail: towersfrance@yahoo.it

PROFESSIONAL all-round service available for villa and apartment rentals along the Côte d'Azur. Experienced, reliable and punctual German team. E-mail: holidayrentalriviera@ymail.com Mobile: +33 (0)6 29 30 83 07 (German) Mobile: +33 (0)6 26 05 07 43 (German, French, English)

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LOOKING FOR APARTMENT Retired Irish nurse is looking for a 1-bedroom apartment in the centre of Nice, close to supermarket, beach and local amenities. Lift access required. From the beginning of January 2012 for three months. Tel: +353 (0) 2 14 82 34 94

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YOUR RT

www.rivieratimes.com

NOVEMBER 2011

On false friends

Crossword puzzle

The Riviera Times helps you avoid those ‘lost in translation’ moments

In this unique crossword, clues written in English have French answers and vice versa. Hint: some answers are the same in either language. The answer will be published in next month’s edition.

H

erbe on its own is 'grass' but stick an adjective after it such as aromatique/médicinale/potagère and it's immediately upgraded to an aromatic/medicinal/pot herb with its own flavour. If you're approached in the street and offered herbe, the chances are someone is dealing in marijuana or 'pot' and not trying to sell you seeds to renovate your lawn, nor proposing a mixed bunch of herbs as in herbes de Provence. Ignorance of the finer points of the French language may lead to a misunderstanding with law enforcement authorities.

Avoid any reference in English or French to 'ignored' or ignoré. The French word means you didn't know and not, as in English, that you intentionally disregarded (if you have to explain any herbe to the police). Try Je n'ai pas compris or, even better, 'I didn't understand.' Information still means information in French, but it can also mean the latest news or item of news. Just to confuse matters, French media web sites presenting the latest news often now have 'news' as part of their address. You're hardly likely to see

inhabitable in real estate advertisements. The English translation is 'uninhabitable'. Properties to let must of course be 'habitable' (inhabitable), while properties for sale range from à rafrâichir (needs doing up and not just a lick of paint!) to belles prestations (beautifully appointed), and rarely state inhabitable. Although hardy Northern Europeans will still find our November temperatures mild, don't be surprised if the real locals talk about a froid de canard (freezing cold), which has nothing to do with jellied duck foie gras. Nicole Agin & Richard Whiting

This month in history on the French Riviera 11th November 1942

9th November 1970

13th November 1995

The Vichy Regime occupies the southern 'free zone'.

General Charles de Gaulle dies at his home from a heart attack at the age of 79.

James Bond Golden Eye premiers (scenes were filmed on the roads north of Grasse), and Monte Carlo hosts Bond's arrival at the Casino de Monte Carlo. Also, it is the bay at Monte Carlo where Onatopp steals the Stealth helicopter.

November 1956

The film Et Dieu… créa la femme (And God Created Woman) is released, making international stars of Brigitte Bardot and Saint Tropez.

19th November 2005

Prince Albert II is officially enthroned at Saint Nicolas Cathedral, creating a new public holiday.

Publishing Director Petra Hall hall@mediterra.com

Editor

Cassandra Tanti rivieratimes@mediterra.com

Contributors Lois Bolton, Claire Lathbury, Jill Levison, Anne Morris, Louise Kirby, Sarah Lloyd Julian Nundy, Carolyn Reynier, Silke Seehars, Aila Stöckmann Oliver Duncan, Richard Whiting Juliet Young

Graphic Design

Carbonnel Media Consultant Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. The Editor reserves the right to cut readers’ correspondence. Articles do not represent the opinion of the Editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct content of ads. We are unable to consider unsolicited material and cannot return it.

© Copyright -2002-2011 - by

Mediterraneum Editions s.a.r.l «Le Centralia» 37 Boulevard Carabacel 06000 Nice Tel. +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 Fax +33 (0)4 93 27 60 10 info@mediterra.com www.rivieratimes.com

Across 8 Luggage (6) 9 Écouté (8) 10 Liver (4) 11 Blanket (10) 12 Cellar (4) 13 Bonnes d'infirmière (10) 17 Original resident of Avignon (4) 18 Wireless (5) 19 Unapologetic sparrow (4) 21 To associate with others in a brotherly way (10) 23 Laugh (4) 24 In the end (10) 28 Fer (4) 29 La mer du Nord (5, 3) 30 Inné (6) Down 1 Wide vista (8)

2 Main line railway station in Paris (4, 2, 1'3) 3 To meet (10) 4 Nail (4) 5 Terre entourée par l'eau (4) 6 Colour of envy(4) 7 Craint (6) 14 Rayons de cercle (5) 15 Pense seulement à soi (10) 16 Attaques sur la réputation d'une personne (10) 20 Gare d’avions (8) 22 Reason (6) 25 Culture, ballet, musique et ainsi de suite (4) 26 Autrement (4) 27 Essai ou papier d'école (4) Answer published next month

Advertising Sales Sabine Weber Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 Fax: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 10 s.weber@mediterra.com Mediterraneum Editions s.a.r.l. au capital de e 1.092.828,49

R.C.S. Nice 399 596 733, SIRET 399 596 73300036 ISSN 1632-8493 Dépôt Légal à parution AIP 0000712 Printed by: Rotimpres, C/Pla de l’estany S/N, Poligon Casa Nova - E-17181 Aiguaviva

On the buses Better than a guided tour... This month: No. 500 Explore the region for the price of a two euro return bus fare: RT journalist Carolyn Reynier continues her tour of the best routes in the Alpes-Maritimes.

T

he number 500 bus leaves Nice's Station Bermond heading north west to Grasse where, towards then end of the 18th century, a flourishing commerce in skins and tanneries gave way to floriculture, with its more appealing scent of success. At the Musée International de la Parfumerie, be sure to visit the exhibition Parfums et Amour, which runs until 14th February 2012. Covering four themes sacred, filial, relational and physical - it traces the development of the emotional links that perfume creates in our relationships

17th century church of St Martin in Châteauneuf. At the east entrance, see the date 1627 engraved on a triangular pediment.

with the world. You can get off the bus earlier at Le Rouret and walk to the Camp Romain, the only construction of its type in the department classified as a Historic Monument. Dating from the Iron Age (800 BC), the two remaining arched walls, standing at an altitude

of around 500 metres, are now hidden by vegetation, but views over the Loup basin are exceptional. The real hidden gem on this route is Châteauneuf, a short stroll up from the bus stop at Pré du Lac (there's also a shuttle bus), located at the crossroads of two communication axes - the Brague and the Mardaric. There are remains dating from 2,500 BC, and in the 12th century the Lords of Opio built a new château on the site of the ancient oppidum, located on the highest point in their territory. It was not high enough, however, to see exoplanets (orbiting around stars other than the sun) - the subject of a November conference with slides presented by Daniel Rouan from the Paris Observatory at the village's Terrasse des Arts.


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