Excerpt: English Gardens

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the formal garden

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stanbridge mill

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water’s many moods

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cottage row

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GREYHOUNDS OXFORDSHIRE

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A row of secret gardens – long, thin, and with higgledy-piggledy boundaries – creeps up the hill behind closely-packed stone houses lining the south side of Sheep Street, in Burford. One of them enjoys local renown for having been attached to the editorial office of The Countryman magazine for a substantial part of the 20th century, although in 1999 it returned to being a private house. When Rosemary Verey was invited to write about it for The Countryman’s Spring 1986 edition, she first marched the reader up to the orchard at the far end of the garden, also its highest point, in order to turn around and look northwards over the rooftops and across the Windrush Valley to the hilly pastures beyond. “The view will take your breath away, for every day there is a subtle difference in the light, the clouds, the direction of the sun’s rays, … the spire of the church, the stone roofs of the snugly built houses, distant fields and the long skyline help to make time stand still…” If only the late Mrs Verey, an enthusiast for both plants and their provenances, could see the garden now. Its remarkable views and timeless Cotswolds cottage atmosphere are still as she would have known them, but the quantity and variety of plants has been vastly extended, thanks to the green-fingered ministrations of Christopher Moore who, in recent years, has been dividing his time between his home and work commitments in Ireland and the ever-increasing demands of his extraordinary Burford garden. First, though, we should start at the front, facing onto Sheep Street where, in 1891, a photographer set up his camera in the middle of the road to photograph its receding western perspective, lined with gentrified houses faced in the local Cotswolds limestone. It is a cold, winter’s day, with broomstick trees and deserted but for two or three tiny figures in the distance, suggesting a composition by Pissarro or Sisley; but the interest for us is on the far left, where stands a horse and cart, parked outside Thomas Paintin’s Lenthall Temperance Hotel – the venue of our hidden garden. Originally it was a wool merchant’s house, probably built in the late 15th century. At some stage it became The Greyhound Inn, a hostelry on what used to be a drovers’ road linking Gloucester with Oxford and London, along which shepherds drove their flocks of sheep to market. It was certainly an inn after 1805, which is when the ancient timber house was refaced in stone. The property was an unlicensed Temperance establishment for only 20 years, from 1888, and Mr Moore dates the creation of a proper garden behind the premises to the years following 1908, when one Elizabeth Percival, sister of the local Rector, bought the property for £700. Mrs Percival seems to have extended the garden area by acquiring adjacent pieces of ground. She graded the sloping land, creating terraces and low retaining walls on the area where Mr Paintin had previously stabled a number of horses and kept the coaches which ran to Shipton-underWychwood three times a day. cottage gardens

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kew gardens

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BRAMDEAN HOUSE HAMPSHIRE

LEFT & FOLLOWING PAGES Moluptur

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In the western reaches of the South Downs, Bramdean is an ancient village in a shallow valley, with a Norman church and pretty houses strung like beads on the busy-ish road linking Winchester and Petersfield. All around, the gentle arcs of the chalk hills are patchworked with arable fields, while close by, at Cheriton, emerge the source springs of the famous Itchen trout stream. The region is loved by many for its seemingly timeless and unchanging appearance, its great trees and vernacular buildings, but such resonance has only been achieved through strenuous local efforts to keep it so against innumerable pressures of the modern age. Bramdean House, built about 1740 in mellow, rosy brick, sits near the road, although it’s easy to miss, being effectively screened by a huge, cumulus cloud of closely-clipped box and yew. Glimpsed through the fine wrought iron of its tall gates, the Georgian house echoes the appealing longevity of its surroundings. Its gardens are of equally high quality, strongly linear in design and marching purposefully northeastwards, straight up the hill behind the house. Sheltered by massive broadleaf trees and the high old walls which create squared-off enclosures, the flower gardens offer an intense, heady experience of graded colours and scent, underpinned by the meticulous care and formidable plantsmanship of the present owners, Hady and Victoria Wakefield. Mrs Wakefield is accustomed to guiding her horticulturally-inclined visitors through the front door and straight on to the back of the house, all the better to experience the unexpected wallop of being plunged, from the rear door, almost headlong into a pair of vast herbaceous borders which mirror each other, plant for plant, all planned with precision. Getting the plant heights and colours to work harmoniously together is much harder than it sounds, and only achieved by a painstaking process undertaken by Mrs Wakefield and her head gardener early in the year. They each take a border and mark it out in three-metre sections with string. Then follows a comparing of notes, volleyed out to each other across the central grass path, as to what was successful and what was not; what should be moved around or substituted for something new, or just something more reliable. The ‘mirrors’ must remain intact, though their contents will be refreshed from year to year. After spring, with its lemon zesty highlights of euphorbias and bulbs, the key border colours of early summer are multiple blues and yellows, shot through with violent magenta (from Geranium psilostemon), plummy-pink and white Dictamnus albus cultivars and highlights from herbaceous clematis and sweet peas, grown on hazel twiggery. The blues are strong in the spires of delphiniums, softer in the mounds of catmint – there are several here but the garden’s own Nepeta Bramdean, upstanding and with dark stems, is especially good; violet tints emerge with the flowering of Salvia Mainacht and plant collections and collectors

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bramdean house

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plant collections and collectors

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tresco abbey gardens

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the exotic garden

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Topiary

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english gardens

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D E E N E PA R K NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

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LEFT Ad moluptur sequi bea ne nimus

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borde hill

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From its centrepiece, a brick-edged pool and fountain, turf-margined paths fan out to display a harmoniously colourful display of shrub roses – chiefly, but not exclusively, from the David Austin stable – themselves decorously hemmed-in by low hedges of lavender and catmint. It’s a glorious sight through the weeks of midsummer, although a number of the plants chosen will carry on blooming for much longer. The Austin English Roses include stalwarts such as Gertrude Jekyll, one of the nursery’s most popular hybrids, in a lovely warm pink, with a powerful Old Rose fragrance wafting from large-ish, well-formed flowers – characteristics which also make it an excellent rose for cutting and bringing indoors. Also Graham Thomas, reliable and soft, buttery-gold, named for the great plantsman and rosarian who did so much for reinstating the nation’s affections for classic Old Roses. There are representations from Austin’s collection of Shakespearean-named roses, including the excellent Falstaff,

with fruity fragrance, cupped, rosetted flowers of deep, cerise-crimson hues. Falstaff produces ‘some of the most magnificent blooms of any that we have bred’, says David Austin. Among the departures into old roses, we find Rose De Meaux, an old Centifolia type, believed to been raised in 1789 (a date firmly etched in the mind of every schoolchild as the beginning of the French Revolution!). De Meaux speaks of more appealing things, being the essence of prettiness, with small, pink, pompom flowers on a dainty bush only some 3ft high and therefore popular in small gardens, although with the characteristically short flowering season of its kind. A high brick wall and some stout chunks of yew hedging and topiary separate the rose arena from the Stephenson Clarkes’ home; but the roses, grouped in harmonious shades of cream, various pinks, cerise, apricots and pale yellows, provide a complementary foreground to the mellow, sandstone elevations and steep gables of the late-16th-century house. the rose garden

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BELOW LEFT Rovitam, nullaborera et

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broughton grange

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modern country gardens

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the old rectory, naunton

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modern country gardens

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lowder mill

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WOOLBEDING WEST SUSSEX

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The River Rother of West Sussex makes a picturesque and lazy journey from west to east through the rolling arable lands and fertile meadows of several great estates. Along the way, its great meanders help to shape and drain the ancient place of Woolbeding, a hamlet down a quiet lane near the attractive town of Midhurst. Woolbeding has had many owners, but in the mid-1950s, when it came to the National Trust in lieu of death duties (but without the sort of endowment funding routinely expected today), its farmland was of primary interest to the Trust; the house was let. In 1973, however, The Hon Simon Sainsbury (1930–2006), collector, philanthorpist and scion of the famous grocery dynasty, took over the lease and, with his life partner Stewart Grimshaw, set about meticulously restoring the fine Georgian house and making a garden to complement it. First sight of the garden is actually (and generously) open for all to see from the road, for a straight drive from the wrought-iron gates to the house leads past a pair of magnificent mixed borders, each one margined by a broad carpet of turf. This area west of the house was the first to be tackled by Messrs Sainsbury and Grimshaw, who called in the advice of the fashionable designer of the day, the anglophile American landscape architect Lanning Roper. Famed for his love of tasteful pastels, particularly combinations of white, pink and grey, Roper’s scheme focused on the white flowers and silver foliage that look so good in English gardens in the freshness of May and June. It was later modified, however, with added flower colours – principally blues, mauves and lemon hues – injecting floral interest over a much longer season. Buddleja, agapanthus and salvias in variety, Campanula lactiflora, solidago, hebe, potentilla and tall lemon hollyhocks all reinforce the vision of summer abundance. With your back to the house, looking down the drive, between the borders, you find the vista majestically continues across the lane, sweeping up through an 18th century avenue of oak and beech. An old walled garden lay immediately south of the entrance borders, partially enclosed with high walls. It lent itself to being carved up into several rectangular enclosures, separated by high yew hedges. Against the west wall, Lanning Roper designed a formal herb garden with paths of stone and herringbone-pattern brickwork, a sundial and box topiaries; around and between them billow the aromatic herbs and annual flowers that concentrate the attentions of wild and honey bees. Another compartment, criss-crossed with herringbone paths, features colour-themed beds edged in knee-high box, with the central focus on a carved Italian wellhead. In a longer rectangle the architect Philip Jebb created a brick dining gazebo and orangery/pool house, aligned on a swimming pool, the enclosure made more formal and decorative by ornaments including a pair of urns; keyhole openings in the yew lead to the neighbouring ‘rooms’. Another exuberant abundance

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lowder mill

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exuberant abundance

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