Paris Pastry Club by Rizzoli International Publications

PA R I S PA S T RY C L U B

PA R I S PA S T RY C L U B by Fanny Za d no ve tt er i 150 g (5 oz) kneading S 100 g (3½ oz) piping 120 g (4 oz) whipping 100 g (3½ oz) drinking 2 teaspoons talking a fat pinch of laughter a pinch of crushed delight

A C O L L E C T I O N O F C A K E S , TA RT S , PA S T R I E S A N D O T H E R I N D U LG E N T R E C I P E S

Throughout the book, Fanny offers cheat’s tips on

sweet (and a few savoury) recipes – a combination of

how to make the perfect sugar syrup, prove dough,

family classics as well as her own creations, perfected in

use a piping bag, whisk egg whites like a pro and

between blogging and working as a successful pastry chef.

more. Whimsical and charming, with beautiful photography throughout, Paris Pastry Club will give

Indulge in Fanny’s wonderful food memories from her

you the confidence to release your inner pastry chef,

childhood in France by recreating her grandma’s Spicy

and is a must for anyone who loves to bake.

almond nougatine, her mama’s melt-in-the-mouth Orange & yoghurt cakes, and Friday-night Crêpes straight from

www.likeastrawberrymilk.com

her papa’s crêperie. Fanny’s own recipes feature a range of sweets, like the Earl Grey tea weekend loaf – essential for rainy Saturdays, to a comforting One-bowl tiramisu, and the Almost-instant chocolate fondant cake, ready in a flash. For more extravagant celebrations there’s an impressive Pistachio and cherry cake, a decadent Salted caramel & milk chocolate flan pâtissier, and a delightfully pink and fruity Peach Melba Charlotte.

Cover design: Charlotte Heal Design Photography: Helen Cathcart

S E R V E D BY FA N N Y Z A N OT T I

In Paris Pastry Club Fanny Zanotti shares her favourite

£20.00

BAKING

PPC_COVER_UK_US.indd 1

08/01/2014 14:56

paris pastry CLUB

introduction

notes on ...

1: Classics ( E veryt h in g a girl nee ds to know )

2: Some t hings are bo und t o happe n ( li k e cho co late cak e on a rain y day)

3: Break-up m enders ( treats f or o ne)

4: breakfasts of king s ( o r a ny o ne y o u wan t to wak e up nex t to)

5: lazy summer sw eets ( f or glittery days and bal my ni ghts )

123

6: Dinner party desserts ( the perf ect end t o a perfect e ven ing)

150

how to ...

156

Acknowledgements & About the author

157

Index

contents

1 L e m o n & blueberry Ma d elei n es Va n illa ice - crea m w it h o li v e o il

Classics

SPICY NO U G AT I N E O R A NG E & Y OGH U R T C A K E s BABAS AU G I N & T ON I C C r ê pes au beurre n o isette m y f av o urite C h o c o late m o usse

( everything a girl needs to know )

PARIS PASTRY CLUB

There are only so many things I know. Getting lost, of the make-believe kind, in the Marais; the beauty of sunsets pretending to be rainbows. Watching – and, more importantly, hearing – waves crash into the sand. And then see them disappear with the low tide, the sun sparkling in cloudy puddles the water has left behind. The flavour of vanilla icecream when our fingers still tasted of the ocean. The miniature merry-go-round of sand fleas jumping from one sandcastle to another. My grand-mère making madeleines and cakes, and clafoutis too. And me, sat on the kitchen counter. Yes, I learnt how to bake during the summers I spent with my grandmother. On the weekends, she would knead butter into flour and add water. And tarts would be made throughout the week. Apricots and plums, golden and plump with sun. And on Wednesdays she would teach me how to make waffles. With beer in Nowadays her words still sound like music to me. We discuss what we’re going to bake over a breakfast of French coffee and thick slices of baguette toasted until barely warm and spread with salted butter and honey. For lunch, she cracks open a few almonds (the ones in the green shells) with a hammer. And then the oven gets turned on and we laugh and we try to make the cakes we dreamed about. Yes, there are only so many things I know. For the unknown, I rely on magic and wishful thinking. And my grand-mère. She’s the most beautiful person in my world. And when we bake together magic happens. Or perhaps it’s the boxed rosé wine we sip as soon as the clock hits five o’clock.

chapter 1

the batter.

p m ad el ei ne s M ak in g plu m in es is plu mp ma de le Th e se cr et to fo r er tt ba ch ill my he at sh oc k. I o, so to h -is ok e ur s (2 ar at le as t 3 ho d an es ey my cl os e go ah ea d, I’ll or ) ed en pp ha in g ev er pr et en d noth en ov my t ea eh d I pr up to 3 days . An mi nu te s fo r a go od 30 F) 0° (43 C to 22 0° in g to 18 0° C be fo re re duc th em . (35 0° F) to ba ke

Lemon & blueberry m a d elei n es M

s ke

24 madele

80 g (2¾ oz) butter, really soft 100 g (3½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar 2 eggs zest from 2 lemons a pinch of sea salt 100 g (3½ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour ½ teaspoon baking powder (baking soda) a punnet of blueberries

Taking a tray of madeleines from the oven feels like pressing the shutter of a Polaroid camera. Boom, instant gratification. The batter is made in advance – up to 3 days – because it makes for plump little cakes with the fat domes we’ve all come to love. And by the time you

Cream the butter with a tablespoon of the sugar. Whisk the remaining

bake them, you’ve forgotten the effort

sugar with the eggs, lemon zest and the pinch of salt in a separate bowl

you put into making the batter. Effort is

until light and fluffy.

somewhat misleading though. Eggs and sugar get whisked together until fluffy. And flour gets folded. The only tricky step is to incorporate the butter without deflating the batter. But I’ve come up

Gently fold in the flour and baking powder until just combined. Scoop out a third of the batter into the butter and mix vigorously. Transfer into the remaining batter and fold in very gently. Scrape the batter into a plastic piping bag and chill for at least 3 hours (or up to 3 days).

with a little trick to make that stage

Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F). Butter and flour a madeleine pan.

easier after the commis-of-my-life tried

Snip a small 8 mm (1∕3 in) hole from the tip of the piping bag and pipe

to turn madeleines into pancakes: the

the batter three-quarters of the way up the prepared moulds. Stick two

butter is creamed with a tablespoon of

blueberries in each madeleine. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C

sugar until very soft and light. It’s then

(350°F) and bake for 14 minutes or until the edges are a deep-golden

mixed with a part of the batter before

brown and the domes are just beginning to brown.

getting folded back into the rest. Ever so gently.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes in the pan, then turn out onto a wire rack.

Va n illa ice - crea m w it h o li v e o il ke Ma

s 2 litr

For the ice-cream 850 g (1 pint/ 12¾ fl oz) whole milk 175 g (6 oz) whipping cream 80 g (2¾ oz) skimmed milk powder 3 Tahitian vanilla pods 3 Madagascan vanilla pods 120 g (4 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 80 g (2¾ oz) dehydrated glucose 6 g (1∕₅ oz) ice-cream stabiliser To serve extra-virgin olive oil a sprinkle of sea salt Spicy Nougatine (page 19)

Pour the milk, cream and milk powder into a large saucepan. Slice open the vanilla pods and scrape the seeds into the milk, then roughly chop the pods into 5 mm (¼ in) long segments and add to these milk as well. Set the pan over a medium heat and stir with a whisk every now and then until the temperature reaches 50°C (120°F) – use a probe to measure it. In the meantime, place all of the remaining ingredients in a bowl and whisk really well to combine. When the milk reaches temperature, slowly add the powders, whisking as you go, and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from the heat and blitz using a stick-blender for 3 minutes.

Not unlike the memory of licking melted

Pour into a plastic container, lay clingfilm over the top so it touches the

ice-cream off my fingers made salty with

surface (to prevent a skin forming) and chill for at least 5 hours or, even

the ocean, this has become a summer

better, overnight. Once chilled, strain the ice-cream mixture through a fine-mesh sieve

favourite over the years. It is more of an idea, rather than a recipe. In fact, you could use store-

and churn according to the instructions of your ice-cream maker. Scrape the ice-cream into a 1 litre (34 fl oz) plastic container and cover

bought ice-cream or make your own.

with a piece of baking parchment the size of your container and freeze for

However I would strongly advise you

a couple of hours before serving.

to try this one which is so loaded with vanilla seeds it’s almost grey.

Scoop into small bowls or serving glasses and drizzle with olive oil. Top with a pinch of sea salt and a sprinkle of crushed nougatine.

Ora n g e & y o g h urt ca k es M

s ke

8 small c ak es

8 oranges 200 g (7 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour ½ tablespoon baking powder (baking soda) a pinch of salt 120 g (4 oz) yoghurt 3 eggs 175 g (6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar zest of 2 oranges 60 g (2 oz) butter, melted 30 g caster (superfine) sugar, for the orange syrup

This is the cake of my childhood, of Sunday mornings at the beach and Wednesday afternoon goûters (snacks) at home. My mum used to make it every week. At times I would help her too – in fact, the only recipe she has is a drawing I made with felt-tip pens and a not-sosteady hand. In those days, we wouldn’t weigh anything but would measure the flour,

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Wash and dry the oranges. Slice off the tops, scoop out the flesh

sugar and butter using the empty

using a metal spoon and set aside in a bowl. Arrange the empty oranges

yoghurt pot. And we’d bake the cake

sitting cut-side-up on a muffin tray. Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix well until smooth.

in a large tin. You could do the same and bake it in a

Divide the batter between the prepared oranges until each is two-

large cake tin, generously buttered and

thirds full and bake for 25–30 minutes or until golden-brown and a skewer

lined with baking paper, but I have a soft

inserted into the centre of each cake comes out clean.

spot for plump little oranges filled with the crumbly and melt-in-your-mouth cake, just like the oranges givrées

Strain the orange flesh through a fine-mesh sieve over a jug, squeezing as you go to extract as much juice as possible. Place the juice and extra caster sugar in a small pan and bring to the

(frozen oranges) my grandmother would

boil over medium heat. Simmer for 10–15 minutes or until reduced by half;

make for birthdays. To make one large

set aside until needed.

cake, bake at 180°C (350°F) for 35–40 minutes.

When the cakes are still warm from the oven, drench each with a little of the hot orange syrup.

PARIS PASTRY CLUB

chapter 1

Pe rf ec t w hi pp

ed cr ea m

star t, s be fo re yo u 1. Te n mi nu te in th e isk wh an d th e pl ac e a bo wl ni te ly fi de m ill . Cr ea fr ee ze r to ch e way if abl st re an d in a mo wh ip s fa st er r- co ld . ou nd it is su pe ev er yt hi ng ar m ea cr ng ip pi 2. If yo u’r e wh ju st it l ti un , wh ip it fo r a mo us se ak pe ft so e to th star ts to ge t pe d ip wh rde un t lo ok stag e. It mi gh pp ed hi -w st ju e us t me , th to yo u bu t, tr t es ft so e th s fo r te xt ur e ma ke m ea cr , ct fa In us se . flu ff ie st mo s so ft rm fo it en ai r in wh ha s th e mo st ev er so r- wh ip pi ng it de Un s. pe ak en yo u wh at re s th sl ig ht ly en su be co me n’t wo m ea th e cr in co rp or at e it, h ai r. d lo se to o muc ov er wo rk ed an cr ea m ip wh ly te de fi ni 3. Yo u ca n mo st be fo re yo u – up to an ho ur ah ea d of ti me an ot he r Sim ply gi ve it pl an to us e it. yo u do so . isk in g be fo re on e- mi nu te wh d wi th cr ea m wh ip pe 4. Ch an ti lly is to tt le va ni ll a su ga r an d a li (½ oz ) g 10 e us y us ua ll st if f pe ak s. I ) cr ea m. r 10 0 g (3½ oz ic in g su ga r pe

My f a v o urite c h o c o late m o usse Serves 4 75 g (2½ oz) 70% dark chocolate 25 g (1 oz) 40% milk chocolate 150 g (5 oz) whipping cream 25 g (1 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 25 g (1 oz) water 2 egg yolks

Melt both chocolates in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. In the meantime, whip the cream to soft peaks and set aside in the fridge (see box opposite). Once the chocolate is melted, keep it warm over the pan of hot water off the heat while you make a sabayon. Bring the sugar and water to the boil in a small pan. Quickly whisk the egg yolks together in a bowl using either an electric beater or a stand-mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Pour the piping-hot syrup over them a little at a time, whisking constantly. Once all the syrup is incorporated, whisk for

This chocolate mousse is incredibly light. It sort of melts on your tongue the

3–4 minutes, or until thick and holding soft peaks. Now that all the elements are ready, use a balloon whisk to mix half the

way candyfloss does. And clouds too.

whipped cream into the melted chocolate until smooth and shiny. Still

It might sound a bit tricky with three

using the whisk, fold in the remaining cream. When the white streaks just

different components, but really can be

start to disappear, add the sabayon and incorporate gently, starting from

assembled in a matter of minutes.

the centre of the bowl and going up the side, turning the bowl clockwise

Once the mousse is made, it will still look a little runny, but don’t worry, it

as you do so. At this point, the mousse should look almost even in colour. Switch to

will set as it cools down into a pillow

a spatula and give it a few more stirs. Divide between 4 small bowls or

of chocolate.

martini glasses and chill in the fridge for at least 4 hours.

2 t h e per f ect PA N C A K E M I X COULANTS A U C HO C O L AT

Some things are bound to happen

t h e o n ly B R I OcH E recipe y o u ’ ll e v er n ee d B E E T R OO T C A K E EARL GREY tea w ee k e n d L O A F cara m el C i d er - p o ac h e d pears ulti m ate m il k C h o c o late c h ip c o o k ies S tic k y T o f f ee pu d d i n g spicy C h o c o late P o ts - d e - cr È m e

( like chocolate cake on a rainy day )

I’m not quite sure when I fell in love with rain. Wellington-boot trips to the boulangerie, jumping into every puddle we saw. Walks through a forest we didn’t know, getting lost and drenched, with an old wooden basket filled with mushrooms we’d picked as our only refuge. Hours spent by a lighthouse, unsure whether the mist that covered our faces came from the ocean or the clouds. Long drives on the motorway to the music of raindrops and thunder and windscreen wipers. On afternoons at the farm eating brioche and drinking never-ending cups of tea, we’d milk cows and collect eggs like treasures hidden in hay. The milk got boiled until pasteurised; the eggs were cracked and mixed with flour and yeast.

PARIS PASTRY CLUB

On rainy days, nothing will stop me from wandering into the wild. Hair tangled by branches, cheeks blushed from the cold wind and my sweater soaked by raining trees, I step back into my house with the restless soul of an adventurer, only to find the one-of-a-kind comfort that comes with storms. A comfort that smells of earth and moss, and makes kettles whistle and blankets wrap around you ever so tightly. And like a merry-go-round, a rainy day will always feel the same, yet always be unique.

chapter 2

T h e per f ect pa n ca k e mix M

es ak

6 panca

For the dry mix 500 g (1lb 2 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 100 g (3½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar 2 tablespoons baking powder (baking soda) 2 teaspoons sea salt To make 6 pancakes add the following to 150 g (5 oz) of dry mix 130 g (4½ oz) whole milk or buttermilk 1 egg 40 g (1½ oz) butter, melted to serve any topping of your choice – maple syrup, golden syrup, honey, butter, jam ... the possibilities are endless

I have an old Le Parfait jar which I refill with pancake mix whenever it’s empty to ensure there is always a ready supply for

Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl.

the perfect rainy-day breakfast. If you

Transfer to an airtight jar. (My 1 litre (34 fl oz) Le Parfait is the perfect

have enough dry mix to hand, all you’ll

size.) This mix will keep in a cupboard for at least 2 months but I highly

have to do in the morning is add a bit of

doubt it will last that long. When pancakes are just a few stirs away, you’ll

milk or, even better, buttermilk, one egg

probably be making them more often than ever. And you should, really.

and a touch of melted butter. You won’t

Whenever you feel like it, simply scoop out 150 g of the pancake

even notice when the sky turns blue –

mix into a bowl, add the milk, egg and melted butter, and whisk

you’ll have a plate of fat fluffy pancakes

until smooth. Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat. Ladle the batter – roughly one-

in front of you. If you are making breakfast for a

third of a cup – into the hot pan and cook until the bottom of the pancake

crowd, the recipe can easily be doubled

is golden-brown and bubbles start to appear on top, which should take

or tripled. Just bear in mind that 150 g

anywhere between 1–2 minutes. Flip the pancake over with a palette knife

(5 oz) of dry pancake mix will make

and cook for a further minute. Transfer to a plate and keep on cooking

6 pancakes. I’ll let you do the maths ...

pancakes until all the batter has been used.

T h e o n ly bri o c h e recipe y o u ’ ll e v er n ee d M

s ke

2 large lo a

60 g (2 oz) whole milk seeds from 2 vanilla pods 550 g (1 lb 4 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 2 teaspoons sea salt 50 g (1¾ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

n Te st in g glu te t en pm de ve lo

10g (½ oz) fresh yeast, crumbled (or 1 teaspoon instant yeast)

ou gh en kn ea de d en A do ug h ha s be ln ut-si ze d st re tc h a wa wh en yo u ca n ra ne ry th in me mb pi ec e in to a ve is stag e ar in g apar t. Th wi th ou t it te t is n de ve lo pm en of full glu te 5 mi nu te s he d af te r 10 –1 us ua lly re ac s th e do ug h te ar of kn ea di ng . If h tc it, u tr y an d st re apar t wh en yo mo re fo r a co up le sim ply kn ea d ag ai n. re te st in g it mi nu te s be fo

6 eggs 325 g (11½ oz) butter, diced 1 egg, beaten, for eggwash

Mix the milk and vanilla seeds in a small bowl and set aside. If you have a stand-mixer, fit the dough hook and mix the flour, salt and sugar together on slow speed. Add the yeast. Then pour in the vanilla milk and the eggs. Switch to medium speed and knead for 10 minutes, or until the dough can be stretched without breaking. Scrape the sides of the bowl every now and then to ensure everything is amalgamated. Alternatively, mix the ingredients by hand then turn out onto a floured

Brioche is the kind of thing that is best

work surface and knead until the dough can be stretched without

made one early afternoon when the rain

breaking.

forces you inside and the roof of your

Now add the butter, one piece at a time, and when almost all of it is in,

home feels like the best umbrella in

increase the speed and knead until smooth (or knead by hand). The dough

the world.

should stop sticking to the side of the bowl (or work surface) and should

You could make it by hand as I do. To me, kneading brioche has the

be silky and very smooth, although somewhat tacky. You can chill the dough overnight to make for easier shaping – perfect

soothing effect of a walk in the park with

if you want a coffee/brioche/jam kind of breakfast. Simply transfer to a

the sound of Japanese music in my ears

plastic container, cover the surface with clingfilm and chill in the fridge.

and blossoms falling on my path. But

If you are keener on a late afternoon buttery treat, then continue by

let’s face it, at times it’s best to let

buttering 2 x 1 litre (34 fl oz) loaf tins. Scrape the dough from the bowl

machines do our dirty jobs while we

onto a clean and lightly floured work surface. Divide in half and use your

catch up with our lives with a good

hands to form into smooth balls. Gently roll each into a log the length of

friend over a cup of tea.

your tins and place them inside. With the back of your fingers, press the

39 dough down to form a flat surface. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave to prove somewhere warm for about 60 minutes, or until doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 170ºC (340ºF). When the dough has risen, brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg and, using floured scissors, cut a line down the length of each brioche. Bake for 45 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of each loaf comes out clean. If they start to brown too quickly, cover loosely with foil

te d Pr ov in g ye as hs do ug

and continue baking until ready. If you decide to bake brioche for breakfast the next day, prepare and

ov e ro nm en t to pr Th e be st en vi an d wi th nd 25 °C (77 °F ) a do ug h is ar ou ie nd , wh o us ed mo ist ai r. A fr e do ug hs at th to ma ke all to ld me Pa in ri s on ce Pi er re He rm é at ho me e hi s br io ch e he wo ul d pr ov of om af te r all in th e bath ro ke n ta ve ha d ul hi s fa mi ly wo r ha nd , . I, on th e ot he ei th r sh ow er r to th e a cu p of wate li ke to br in g qu ic kly cr owav e, th en bo il in th e mi e in . -to- be br io ch st ic k my so on on ly y we ll be th e In fa ct, it ma av e e th e mi cr ow ti me I ev er us n. in ou r ki tc he

bake in the same way, but allow the dough longer to prove. You will probably need around 90 minutes for it to double in size.

B eetr o o t ca k e Serves 8 3 eggs 175 g (6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar seeds from 1 vanilla pod 250 g (9 oz) raw beetroot (from approximately 2 beetroots), peeled and very finely grated 175 g (6 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 10 g (½ oz) baking powder (baking soda) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 120 g (4¼ oz) butter, melted

Most recipes for beetroot cake include chocolate in one form or another, but once you slice into this one, it has the hue of crimson-red ink and the deep flavour of the roasted beets of my childhood. The very ones – roasted, almost-burnt, skin on – that I would eat with my bare hands and tint my fingers with their juices. Back then, just a pinch of fleur de sel, and perhaps a squeeze of

Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Generously butter and line a 22 cm

lemon juice, were the only necessities.

(9½ in) cake tin with baking parchment.

Nowadays, a dust of flour and a fat vanilla pod seem to be a must. The earthy perfume of this cake will fill your kitchen and your house. And whenever raindrops start hitting the

Whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla seeds for 3–5 minutes until fluffy and doubled in size. Gently fold in the grated beetroot and incorporate the flour, baking powder and cinnamon until just smooth. Transfer a couple of spoonfuls of the batter into the melted – but

window again, I think you should know

cooled – butter and mix vigorously until combined, then fold it all into

that a slice of this delicious cake will

the remaining batter.

reheat – from frozen – beautifully in the

Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 25 minutes,

microwave, making for a perfect, almost

or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.

instant, winter warmer.

Leave to cool on a wire rack, then turn out onto a serving plate.

E arl Grey tea w ee k e n d loaf

rge loa 1 la f c s e ak k a For the cake

1 tablespoon Early Grey tea leaves 250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 4 eggs 200 g (7 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour zest from 1 bergamot orange (optional) 1 teaspoon baking powder (baking soda) 150 g (5 oz) crème fraiche 50 g (1¾ oz) butter, melted softened butter, extra for piping For the confit 350 g (12 oz) clémentines, around 3–4 fruit 200 g (7 oz) caster (superfine) sugar ½ vanilla pod, with its seeds 150 g (5 oz) water 20 g (¾ oz) cornflour (cornstarch), diluted in 40 g (1½ oz) cold water to serve extra crème fraiche

If there ever was to be a tale about this

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Butter and flour a 1 litre (34 fl oz)

cake it would involve a countryside

loaf tin.

cottage where you’d be locked inside,

Finely blend the loose Earl Grey tea leaves with around 50 g (2 oz) of

escaping a storm. Winds would blow,

the caster sugar until powdery. Place in a bowl along with the eggs and

trees would block roads, candles would

the remaining caster sugar and whisk for around 4 minutes, until light

bring the only light. Of course there’d

in colour. Mix the flour, bergamot zest (if using) and baking powder in

be a wood-fired oven. And cake would

another bowl.

be made. A simple loaf cake. Light and

Fold the dry ingredients into the egg mixture, then pour a little of this

deeply perfumed with lemons. And with

into the crème fraiche and melted butter in a separate bowl and mix

a generous amount of crème fraiche to

well. Transfer back to the main batter mix and fold in gently using a

keep it moist for days.

spatula. Pour into the prepared tin.

In France, we simply call loaf cakes

Put the extra softened butter into a piping bag and cut a very small

cakes, pronounced ‘kek’. But whenever

hole, around 4 mm (¼ in) wide, then pipe a line of the butter across the

cream is added to the batter it becomes

cake. Bake for 5 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 170°C (340°F)

a ‘weekend cake’, with the underlying

for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature again to 160°C (320°F) and

meaning being that it’ll last over the

bake for a further 25 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the centre of

weekend, making it the perfect getaway

the cake comes out clean.

food. Sometimes I’ve even found it

Cool on a wire rack for 10–20 minutes, then turn out and set aside.

labelled in shops as ‘cake de voyages’.

If you’re not planning to eat it right away, wrap tightly in clingfilm and

Who knew a loaf cake could be so

store in the fridge for up to 4 days. While the cake is cooling make the clémentine confit. Bring a large

poetic? If you don’t have any crème fraiche

pan of water to the boil. Plunge in the clémentines and simmer for

you can use double cream instead. But,

3 minutes. Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and pop them into

of course (and this is said with a heavy

a bowl of ice-cold water. Repeat, using fresh water, then chill the

French accent), I can only advise you

clémentines until they are cold enough to handle.

to have a constant stock of the stuff in

Slice very finely and add to a saucepan with the sugar, vanilla pod and

your fridge. I love to serve this cake

seeds and water. Simmer for 30 minutes or until reduced and almost

with a clémentine confit and a thick

candied. Then vigourously fold in the cornflour mixture. Allow to boil for

dollop of crème fraiche. If you can’t

a couple of minutes, then transfer to a bowl. Chill until needed.

find clémentines, small mandarines, tangerines or even seedless oranges

Serve slices of the cake topped with a spoonful of clémentine confit and a dollop of crème fraiche.

will do.

cr ac k Ge tt in g a ne at on th e lo af e s my favo ur it Th is is pe rh ap y au ti full ti p: to ge t a be sie st way is to ea e th , cr ac ke d lo af mm (¼ in) – ne – ar ou nd 4 pi pe a th in li tt er ac ro ss of so ft en ed bu e batt er lo af. wh en th th e un ba ke d , th e bu tt er star ts to ri se at cr ac k cr eati ng a ne wi ll sin k in , a! th e ca ke . vo il in th e cr us t of

U lti m ate m il k c h o c o late c h ip c o o k ies M

s ke

36–40 coo

180 g (6¹∕3 oz) butter, soft 260 g (9¼ oz) light brown sugar 80 g (3 oz) caster (superfine) sugar seeds from 1 vanilla pod 2 eggs 200 g (7 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 200 g (7 oz) strong flour 1 teaspoon baking powder (baking powder) 1 heaped teaspoon sea salt 150 g (5 oz) milk chocolate, chopped into small chunks a little extra sea salt, for sprinkling

If you are using a stand-mixer, fit the paddle attachment and cream the butter and sugars. Add the vanilla seeds and the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Alternatively mix by hand with a wooden spoon. Mix in the flours, baking powder and salt until just combined. Add the chocolate chunks and knead briefly in the bowl with your hand until there are no more floury patches.

I think that eating the perfect chocolate

Divide the dough into 4 and turn out a portion onto the centre of a

chip cookie, still warm from the oven,

large sheet of baking parchment. Fold the paper in half (like a closed

feels like kissing (of the French kind).

book), then using the flat side a plastic scraper and holding both ends of

With no other reason than kissing being

the baking paper, push the dough into a tight log. You should have enough

one of my favourite pastimes, I like

dough to make 4 x 5 cm (2 in) wide logs. Wrap each log in clingfilm and

to have ready-to-bake cookie dough

chill overnight or freeze for up to 3 months. When you crave some cookies, simply take out one log from the freezer

stashed away in my freezer. This recipe will make 4 logs of dough,

and leave at room temperature to thaw for around 10 minutes, or in the fridge for a few days. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and simply cut

each yielding 8–10 cookies. I usually make a batch and keep one log in the fridge overnight to firm up and bake the next day, while the remaining

the log into 1.5 cm (½ in) thick slices, arrange on a baking sheet lined with baking paper and sprinkle with a little extra sea salt. Bake for 10–12 minutes, depending on how well-done you like your

logs go straight to the freezer for fun at

cookies. Leave to cool for 5 minutes before lifting the cookies onto a plate

a later date.

using a palette knife.