I N
T H E
LOUPE
The Premier Jewelers Cooperative
April 2 0 2 2 • I s s u e 1 0 2 SHOW REGISTRATION GOES LIVE ON MAY 11!
RJO is Making the 20s Roar Again RJO will host its own speakeasy at the end of July in Minneapolis, as the 2022 Summer Buying Show kicks off. A highlight of the Roaring Twenties more than 100 years ago, our speakeasy will not be as secretive, though it will be as exclusive—RJO members only!
• up to three complimentary consecutive nights at the downtown host hotels—the Hyatt Regency and the Millennium. Make your reservations early, as recent Shows have been so popular, RJO has needed more than one overflow hotel.
This Show continues the successful tradition of sponsoring a full slate of educational sessions and seminars, keynotes and roundtables, entertainment and fun, as well as the latest from RJO’s vendors, who will provide the hottest items as jewelers prepare for the upcoming holiday season. In addition to the great deals you’ll find on the Show floor, your RJO membership entitles you to additional offerings, including:
• buying discounts—via RJO Purchase Vouchers— allowing you to save up to an additional three percent on what you buy from vendors • a summer-y offering of an optional Buying Show excursion Online registration opens on May 11, and your Buying Show Registration Packet will be in the mail at that time.
Crawling is no way to go into a speakeasy; that's the way to go out.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
In the Know with RJO
Touchstones I’M IN ST. LOUIS AS I WRITE THIS issue’s message, attending one of our regular RJO Board meetings. We’re well past the stage of making plans for this Summer’s Buying Show in Minneapolis, and most of the Show work involves final touches rather than important decisions. There is a lot of "routine" business that needs to get done at these meetings, but also plenty of strategic planning, policy review, and roundtable discussions. I always step away from the meetings feeling refreshed and energized and was able to step back today and consider RJO's larger role than simply being an organized buying group for the independent retailer. I’ve come to find, with more than 1,100 members, jewelers’ impressions and use of RJO differ widely. I know some members really look to RJO mostly about twice a year, finding our Buying Shows to be their main interest. Others focus on RJO every other month, catching up on what’s new when the latest In the Loupe is announced in their email. Others have a monthly relationship, focusing on the financial side of invoices and (discounted) payments. And then there are the “Regulars,” a group who post or engage on the RJO Facebook page several times a week; their enthusiasm and creativity never cease to amaze me. RJO Board and Committee members, as well as those of us in the RJO headquarters, have a
different touchstone; we have the privilege and responsibility to work every day to improve the products and services that support members’ successes and challenges. • Wondering how to increase your custom business? RJO offers a service to get quick competitive quotes. • Want to expand your lines? RJO offers contacts and discounts with more than 200 vendor partners. • Need to handle an awkward employee situation? RJO is likely negotiating with a spot-on speaker for the upcoming Buying Show. I’m so proud of all the advantages offered to our RJO members, from dividend to discounts to education, we strive to be there for you. Helping to increase your bottom line, support your business and provide a network of the best independent jewelers in the nation. As with every Board meeting, I will be leaving this one with a renewed spirit and some exciting and innovative news that will (eventually) reveal itself. This time is no different, and I hope you join me in looking forward to all the good things happening now, as well as those that lie ahead.
Sarah Streb RJO CEO
RJO Board News APPLICATION REQUESTS FOR THE RJO Board of Directors election began on April 6. Here are the upcoming important dates for those interested in the election: May 6 – Applications Due May 13 – Ballots Sent June 6 – Votes Due
2
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
From RJO’s Facebook Page SERVICES THE RJO PAGE ON FACEBOOK hosts a variety of interesting discussions every day. Here is an edited exchange from earlier this month:
Centralized Billing Patronage Dividend RJO Website (rjomembers.com) Buying Shows (Fall/Spring) In the Loupe – RJO’s newsletter Free Print and Radio Ad Library (on the RJO website)
Reply One: Same lunch rush with us. Strange, but we’re glad to get out of work sooner.
Educational Seminars (at the Buying Shows)
Reply Two: We changed our closing hour from 6 p.m. to 5 p.m. I looked back and noticed we did around two percent of our business in that hour. So, it was a no-brainer. We have seen an increase in traffic late now, and we also see more traffic early in the morning.
Member-to-Member Incentive Program (Recruitment Program)
Organized Buying Trip to Antwerp RJO Directory Travel Vouchers at Shows (offered at varying times)
Free Hotel Room Incentive (at the Buying Shows)
RJO Informational Email Blasts Purchase Vouchers (at the Buying Shows)
RJO Membership Certificate RJO Next Gen and RJO Succession Experiences Private Label Credit Card Service JewelConnect Scholarship Opportunities (from the RJO Foundation)
Post: Things changed during COVID. One thing I feel has changed is our traffic patterns. We are now busier over the lunch hour, and I find myself eating lunch regularly at 3:30, after a lunch rush. Conversely, our late night is now kind of dead. I am writing this at 7:12 p.m. on a Thursday. I saw my last customer about an hour ago, and I don’t expect to see anyone else tonight. This hour is traditionally one of the busiest hours of the week. I am thinking of closing at 7 instead of 8, saving the payroll (and eating dinner with my family). Have any of you seen similar changes?
Reply Three: It would be wonderful to close at 5! We usually keep kind of busy from 5-6, though. Reply Four: We also changed to the 5 p.m. closing hour! Morning and lunch are busy. If we have people walking in, we stay; otherwise we close at 5. We’ve had zero issues! We always offer after-hours appointments, though, in case it doesn’t work with someone’s schedule. Original Poster: I went for lunch the other day at 3, and half the places were closed for some reason. The deli and the cupcake shop closed for Passover, but the pizza place cut their non-productive hours, and the cafe closed up at 2:30. Things have changed. I am wondering about my 3:30 to 4 on Saturday. I ran our numbers, and it was an absolute no-brainer to cancel the 7:00 hour. Our new hours are: 10-5 on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday; 10-4 on Saturday; and 10-7 on Thursday. Reply Five: We quit being open until 8 and have not had any blowback. We used to be open 9 a.m. - 8 p.m., M-F. We shortened our hours post-COVID, closing two hours early at 6, M-F, and it has not hurt us at all. We book private appointments now from 6-8 p.m. (and we advertised it that way in the beginning). More time with the fam, and if you happen to book private appointments, they’re good sales worth staying after hours for. I highly recommend such a change. Reply Six: We used to be open Thursdays until 7 p.m., and the other days until 6 p.m. Thursday nights were ALWAYS booked for bridal appointments. We nixed Thursday night after reopening from COVID closure and have had zero issues. Those bridal appointments come during the workday now or they can make them before 5 p.m. People don’t seem to have their long daily commutes anymore.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
3
RJO Foundation’s Spring Campaign is Going On Now The RJO store offers men, women and youth sizes of t-shirts and sweatshirts in a variety of colors, all carrying the classic RJO logo. Accessories include face masks, keychains, scarves, a stadium seat, blankets, totes, and water bottles. Show your support by visiting the store here.
THE RJO FOUNDATION has opened up our new apparel and accessories campaign with new styles, colors, and brands! From brands like Bella+Canvas, Nike, and New Era, you are sure to find the perfect fit for you and your staff. Better yet, select items are 20-percent off for a limited time. So, get it while you can.
Sales of these items are used to sustain the RJO Foundation Scholarship program, which provides scholarships and grants to RJO retail owners, vendor owners and their employees. To date, the RJO Foundation has awarded RJO members more than $72,000 in scholarships. The RJO Foundation Winter Buying Show t-shirts and related clothing raised $768.
RJO is Headed to Europe this October AFTER A TWO-YEAR HIATUS due to COVID-19, RJO is once again sponsoring a trip to Europe this fall. With travel restrictions lifting around the world, now more than ever we want to encourage you to consider traveling with the RJO ambassadors to Antwerp this October. This single trip will begin on October 9 and run one week, through October 16. Hosts for this upcoming trip are Erika Godfrey, of Hawthorne Jewelry in Kearny, NE; and Nancy Marchell, of Signature Jewelers in Grand Forks, ND. Travel dates and itinerary have been set, and the trip includes an optional Paris trip. We would love to have you come along as we travel the globe to the Diamond Capital of the world! Go here on the web, to sign up to receive Antwerp-related RJO announcements.
4
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
RJO’s Exclusive and Comprehensive Digital Suite RJO PROVIDES SEVERAL COMPLEX, but easy-tooperate systems for retailers and vendors to do more business. All of these systems are exclusive to RJO, and they provide an extra advantage to all members. RJO will be hosting a Summer Buying Show seminar about these services on Saturday morning in Minneapolis.
www.RJOmeet.Me Easily and quickly discover valuable information about RJO vendors with RJOmeet.Me, a comprehensive database allowing searches by company offerings, personnel, category, unique keywords, and more. It was developed to provide members their own RJO search engine, one in which users can browse and discover all the products and services RJO vendors have to offer. The system offers great depth and detail, such as catalog downloads, item searches, product line descriptions, brand offerings, and more. Users can “Favorite” vendors, which sets a reminder to visit the vendor’s booth at the next Buying Show. Weekly special offerings are listed from our PRO Meet.Me system vendors. Users can make a “Vendor Request” for an item needed, by adding the wanted item’s image and description. Vendors can reply directly (if users choose to include their contact details) or can do so through the system, if users wish to avoid phone and email interruptions. Vendors are able to post items on their system profiles for users to browse, and some even allow memo requests directly on the system. Applying “Select” and “Favorite” to specific items allows the vendor to send specifics to users, in order to “get a loupe on it” before they make a commitment. RJOmeet.Me is a complete productivity solution to research vendors, lines, and new opportunities, as well as to communicate, collate information for Buying Shows, find items needed, and even request memo and sample items. It’s jewelers’ daily RJO assistant.
www.RJOCustomHatch.com RJO Custom Hatch is a retailer productivity system which enables any RJO store to receive multiple quotes on a custom piece from RJO custom vendors. It works on a similar strategy as “get an insurance quote” websites, where several providers provide quotes using the same set of criteria, making them directly comparable.
The system does not reveal the quote-requesting store’s identity, to ensure the system handles all exchanges of information, preventing phone calls and faxes, which can interrupt daily activities. This not only allows RJO retailers to get assistance for items they want to consider for CAD or outright production, but essentially means any RJO-member store’s custom bench can offer unlimited productivity.
www.JewelConnect.com Since 2012, JewelConnect.com has been marketing RJO member stores on the Internet. JewelConnect uses the resources of RJO’s large base of jewelers and products to attract online shoppers and convert them to in-store clients. The strategy behind JewelConnect is to divert people from buying online and to redirect them to in-store jewelry buying. JewelConnect.com shows thousands of items from RJO vendors as “available to buy” for people to inquire about at their local store. Any RJO store can then source the item through the RJO vendor and sell the item or show the user something similar in their showcase. JewelConnect’s slogan is “Shop Online, Buy In-Store.”
www.Repair.Jewelry Released in mid-2019, Repair.Jewelry markets RJO stores to combat the growth of mail-order online jewelry repair services. Over the last several years, the Repair.Jewelry site has been shown to users on Google organic search more than 300,000 times. The system takes repair requests for members, but it turns out the “local store index” has been far more popular, and we now show this activity to the members’ stores. The system has recorded several thousand “ZIP searches” for stores, showing the system not only attracts people looking for jewelry repair, but those users then find local RJO stores to do the work. These four RJO-exclusive services are offered by VRB Internet Solutions Ltd., an RJO web developer vendor. VRB has been creating and managing web sites, systems, and digital marketing programs since 1999.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
5
Vendor Profile
Buzz Advertising: Hitting the Marketing Sweet Spot THE WEBSITE IS MOSTLY BLACK AND YELLOW, the logo features a honey hive, and a photo sent along to accompany this profile was titled “Tammy Riding a Bee,” (below) which shows the crowned owner riding a bee, holding on to the winged insect’s antennas. The bee theme is a bit infectious and “punny,” and that’s on purpose. Founded in 2021 by marketing expert Tammy Benda, the agency combines Benda’s more than 20 years of total marketing experience with a solid team of jewelry marketing professionals. Based in Marquette, MI, Buzz has expertise in jewelry marketing, but also serves clients across the United States in a variety of professional industries. “We’ve created a whole new hive at Buzz,” says Benda, “swarming and flying from one success story to the next, while pollinating new businesses with our sweet marketing services, all while never stopping to smell the flowers even once!” “One of the foundations Buzz has built its business on,” she continues, “is this: Advertising works when it gets people talking! Disrupt. Get memorable. Stand out from the crowd. Create a buzz! That’s what Buzz is all about. Buzz Advertising Agency creates a buzz around your business!” Benda says Buzz views itself as an advertising and marketing firm that partners with other jewelers ready to grow their bottom line. Its goal is to find the “sweet spot” in a store’s marketing plan—the balance across the right media platforms that gets “buzzworthy” results, gets people to a website, and gets customers through the door. “Every client that grows their business is a success story,” says Benda. “Advertising plays only a part of a business’ success, and I will never take credit for that growth, because what happens inside the door is more important than what’s being said or done outside of it.
“One partnership I’m particularly proud of,” says Benda, “is one we have with RJO’s Cline Jewelers in Edmonds, WA. Andy Cline and his team work exceptionally hard to make sure the customer experience inside the door is like no other, and they are outstanding at clienteling and networking. We’ve enjoyed being a partner in Cline’s growth for several years.” “Our marketing efforts for Cline Jewelers,” continues Benda, “focus on telling his story rather than that of the brands he carries. When you combine buzzworthy advertising that connects with your customers with an exceptional jewelry store, you have a recipe for success!” Buzz Advertising Agency’s marketing video for Cline Jewelers may be viewed here. “I love my clients,” says Benda. “Their success is my success. I always look forward to that late-night text from a customer who can’t wait to tell me they’ve had a successful event. I am so proud to own a business whose number one goal is to help other businesses grow!” Benda is also delighted to be among one of RJO’s newest vendors. “To Buzz, RJO is family. Families are supporters, constructors, and cheerleaders, all the while offering help so the collective can prosper. Excitement does not begin to describe how ‘great’ it feels to have the opportunity to serve and contribute to the growth of so many jewelry industry leaders, artists, store owners, and more! We feel like we’ve hit the jackpot!” While the agency’s bee theme is “quite fun,” Benda says making great advertising and marketing is not all fun and games. “We work hard and play hard,” she says. “Besides having mandatory team lunches on Wednesdays, we have this thing where we’ll dress one of our team members in a full-on bee suit every few weeks (to become Bizzy Bee—the company mascot), and we take pictures and videos to post on our social media pages, such as TikTok, Instagram, and Facebook. We have our fair share of laughs in the process, and there’s no better way to take a break from the daily hustle and bustle than with a good laugh with my amazing team!” Buzz Advertising Agency is located at 1926 Industrial Parkway in Marquette, MI. Phone: (906) 786-3445 Website: www.buzzadvertisingagency.com
6
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
Four RJO Members Among America's ‘20 Under 40’ JEWELERS OF AMERICA (JA), THE NATIONAL trade association for businesses serving the fine jewelry marketplace, announced the recipients of the 20 Under 40 in Jewelry Retail list. Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 is a new recognition program that celebrates young professionals who exemplify leadership skills and a commitment to elevating jewelry retail for tomorrow’s jewelry consumers. Among the 20 professional selected were four RJO members. Their photos, as well their thoughts about the recognition, are below:
Amanda Coleman-Phelps
President/Owner of Nelson Coleman Jewelers & Jewelry By Designs in Towson, MD It is such an honor to be recognized by Jewelers of America for this accomplishment. Our goal at Nelson Coleman Jewelers and Jewelry by Designs is to provide an exceptional experience for our clients, who we believe are friends or friends we haven’t met yet. I couldn't be where I am today without the trust and faith from my family and for all the hard work from our teams at our stores, as well as the continued support and love from our amazing clients! Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
Isabelle Corvin
Staff Gemologist and Merchandising Manager of Panowicz Jewelers in Olympia, WA I was so surprised, excited and honored when I received word I'd been chosen as one of the '20 under 40' recipients! It was beyond amazing to be included with a group of talented and hardworking leaders in our industry. Seeing the others that had been recognized for their achievements and accomplishments with the '20 under 40' list really magnified my feelings of surprise and excitement. This is an incredible honor. The hardest part was not telling anyone I was one of those recognized until it was officially announced!
Katherine Dahlkemper
Assistant Manager of Dahlkemper’s Jewelry Connection in Erie, PA Being recognized as one of the top 20 jewelers under 40 in America is beyond exciting! Even though I am receiving this individual recognition, it’s truly an achievement for our entire organization and team! They are a huge part of this accomplishment, and I am very blessed.
Alexandra Hevia Schlindwein
Marketing Director of Kiefer Jewelers in Lutz, FL It was an unexpected honor to be selected for this award. I always wanted to follow my parents into jewelry, and I am so blessed I have been able to pursue my passion. I’ve met so many amazing people along the way who have inspired me to work towards bringing awareness and education to the future of our industry. I love being able to show by example there are so many ways to make a successful and exciting career in jewelry. I feel initiatives like this are so important to continue to grow the independent sector of the industry.
To see all 20 recipients and to learn more about the award, see this special section in Southern Jewelry News.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
7
2022 Fall Buying Show • RJO hosts the Summer Buying Show in The Minneapple—Minneapolis—at the end of July. A twin city with nearby St. Paul, the metro area comprises a population of nearly 3 million. The area is home to 16 Fortune 500 companies, including Target, Best Buy, U.S. Bank, General Mills, and Land O'Lakes. Members who've attended Minneapolis Buying Shows in the past find the city has a vibrant downtown, featuring a walking plaza, fountains, and public green spaces, all served by a transportation network that features a bright yellow-and-blue light rail system. The town’s major league baseball team—the Minnesota Twins—plays their games downtown in the Target Field Stadium. Minneapolis has been the location for a number of films and shows, including the movies Fargo, The Mighty Ducks, Ice Castles, Jingle All the Way, and Purple Rain, as well as television’s The Mary Tyler Moore Show, Coach, and episodes of American Idol and The Amazing Race. Minneapolis is also famous as the birthplace for Peanuts creator Charles Schulz. We’ve put together some preliminary information about the Buying Show and its host city. We hope it helps you start your planning for the end of July.
Things You May Not Know About Minneapolis Two-story Target stores—like the one in downtown Minneapolis— have specialized cart escalators, which allow your cart to ascend or descend right next to your own escalator. Nearly one-third of Minneapolis residents possess a gene which causes them to sneeze when exposed to bright light. Minneapolis has no sales tax on apparel and accessories. General Mills' lesser-known breakfast cereals include: Fruity Lucky Charms, Cinnamon Toast Crunch Churros, Peanut Butter Chocolate Blasted Shreds, and Maple Cheerios. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Minneapolis was -60 degrees, in 1996. Women who impersonate Santa Claus can face up to 30 days in jail. The largest number of people gathered dressed as Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles took place at the Mall of America in March 2012, according to the Guinness Book of Records. Minneapolis is the home of the Honeycrisp Apple, produced at the University of Minnesota in 1960. The apple became so popular it was named the official state fruit in 2006.
8
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
Minneapolis, MN • July 30 - August 1 https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/group-booking/MSPRM/G-RJ22
The average high temperature in Minneapolis in the first part of August is 79 and the low is 63.
A Host Hotel: Hyatt Regency Minneapolis Located in downtown Minneapolis on Nicollet Mall, the Hyatt Regency is connected via skyway to the Minneapolis Convention Center and the rest of downtown. The hotel is within walking distance to MLB's Target Field, US Bank Stadium, the Walker Art Center and Sculpture Garden, the city’s Metro light rail train network, the Minnesota’s Orchestra Hall, as well as the area’s numerous parks. Guests have complimentary access to StayFit Gym, a swimming pool and a full-length basketball court. It also should be noted the hotel offers Starbucks coffee and espresso drinks. Book your rooms early by clicking here. Details about our overflow host hotel, The Millennium, will be coming soon.
The Hyatt Regency Minneapolis is located at 1300 Nicollet Mall downtown.
Best Breakfast in Downtown Minneapolis: Hell's Kitchen Take an eight-minute walk northeast out of the hotel and you'll come across a bright red awning, with the name "Hell's Kitchen" emblazoned upon it. But the awning is a bit misleading. Yes, you do descend to the restaurant once you enter, but once in, you'll find a bright and cheery restaurant, with pleasant and knowledgable staff. A TripAdvisor Traveler's Choice awardee last year, the ‘Kitchen’ features top-quality expected breakfast fare, but also offers creative choices, including Lemon Ricotta Hotcakes and Waffles, Toasted Sausage Bread, and "D*mn Good" Hot Chocolate. Hell's Kitchen is located at 80 S. 9th St. in downtown Minneapolis.
Domestic Airlines Serving Minneapolis
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
9
Jeweler Profile
Cornerstone Jewelry: A Good Fit All Around SOME FIRST-GENERATION RETAIL JEWELERS encounter a rough start in their first few months of business, but few have probably experienced a beginning like Luisa and Billy Smith. In December of 2019, the Smiths took over an established legacy jewelry store—Cornerstone Jewelry and Repair—in Springfield, MO. Luisa became the new owner of the store, and she and Billy set to work alongside their “amazing staff“ to revolutionize the jewelry industry in their community.
“We are a store that is very focused on both ‘Custom’ and ‘Customization,’” says Luisa. “Custom jewelry is one of our absolute favorite things to do! We encourage customers to leave the design work to us. Our goal is to create a timeless design that exceeds expectations and dreams. If they know exactly what kind of design they’ve been wanting, we will make that a reality. If they have no idea where to begin, they let our design specialists help them create the right piece.”
Four months into their new business, COVID-19 hit. And hard.
“We pride ourselves on going that extra step in making a piece—as well as the experience—unique for the customer,” she continues. “Additionally, we do very well with Galatea Jewelry, which promotes infusing the arts, innovation, science and technology into a happy and spiritual life. Galatea’s one-of-a-kind pearl creations and octopus pendants are popular here.”
“In April of 2020 we had to shut down for six weeks,” says Luisa. “As new owners it was scary, but we took the challenge on. We decided to focus on hygiene and the importance of it. As work slowed down for many, we began to advertise buying gold so we could help those in the community affected by the shutdown, as well as help ourselves to keep the door open.” In June of 2020, a local TV station approached the Smiths to discuss a new lifestyle program they were working on, thinking the couple might be a good fit. “We decided to take a chance on them and be featured on a monthly basis,” says Luisa. “This drew a new crowd of customers into our store and opened up new opportunities for us. We partnered with all the wedding vendors in the community to help increase our exposure, and we reached a whole new customer base. Ironically, we were fortunate to have been blessed through the pandemic, and we continue to flourish, reaching the highest gross profit in the store’s history just last year.” In addition to being a good fit for the local television station, Cornerstone is a good fit for the town of Springfield.
While the Cornerstone store has been a member of RJO for more than 20 years, the new owners have been part of RJO for only three. Luisa says the previous owners loved RJO, and they feel blessed to have been shown the same compassion and kindness as the previous owners. She says it was “truly a no-brainer to remain part of such an organization.” “We love the connections offered by RJO,” says Luisa. “It has taken us in and helped us grow as individuals and as a company. Being young millennials, we found a community of love and support. Being able to connect with others in the industry is very valuable to us, as is being able to find much-needed time to refresh our outlook for the industry.” Cornerstone Jewelry and Repair is located at 2821 S Glenstone Ave. in Springfield, MO. Phone: (417) 881-0667 Website: www.cornerstonefinejewelry.com
Does RJO Have Your Most Up-to-Date Email Addresses? If you’ve changed your email address lately or would prefer to receive RJO communications at a different address, please let us know. Address updates and changes can be directed to Erin Sharp in the RJO office at: erin@rjomembers.com
10
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
COVER STORY
Right at the Museum We’ve all heard the saying “They couldn’t see the forest for the trees,” which describes people so caught up in the minutiae of what they’re doing, they fail to see the big picture. Oftentimes what is missed is the beauty or simplicity of one’s surroundings or a special moment in time. JEWELERS SPEND AN AWFUL LOT OF TIME looking through their loupes, looking for imperfections, double-checking a repaired clasp, or assessing the value of gems and stones. Sometimes they might miss the grandeur of a piece, the beauty of the necklace attached to the clasp, or the rarity of the cut they’re assessing. A great place to take a step (or many steps) back for jewelers might be a museum housing worldrenowned stones and gems. New York City’s American Museum of Natural History is just such a place, and last July it reopened its 11,000-square-foot collection, in the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals. Let’s take a virtual tour of the new Halls, taking a look at some of the most popular exhibitions. Commentary will be provided by an RJO vendor who recently visited the collection (Ravi Jajoo, President
of United Color Gems in New York), by an RJO vendor and RJO jeweler who reviewed the collection online and shared their favorites (Joel Aziz, Senior Account Manager at LALI Jewels in New York and Joanna Gruver, owner, Haywood’s Westlake, with two stores in Virginia), and by George E. Harlow, Curator of the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History.
Gargantuan Garnets These giant garnets formed more than 1 billion years ago, when the original rock was buried 16 miles underground in upstate New York and transformed by heat and pressure. This towering slab studded with garnets of up to 1 foot across comes from New York’s Gore Mountain in the Adirondack Mountains.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
11
The garnets resulted when rock transformed at pressure 8,000 times greater than atmospheric pressure and at about 1,500 degree (F). During metamorphic reactions that formed these garnets, elements moved between solid minerals via chemical diffusion. These garnets are unusual because they are cracked along many parallel planes—which makes them perfect as an abrasive, like sandpaper. I have never seen this specific stone before, but I know garnet’s symbolism is rich and varied. Cultures all over the world have prized this gemstone for its beautiful colors and durability. Any retailer should be interested in the stone as the traditional January birthstone has also inspired many legends and popular associations with love, friendship, light, and vitality. —Joel Aziz
It formed through a weathering process. Weak acids in rain and groundwater dissolve carbonate minerals, such as calcite, the primary material in limestone rock that hosted this block. Over millions of years, dissolution of limestone bedrock can form dramatic caves. Crystals of bright green malachite and deep blue azurite can be seen in this block. These formed when acidic, copper-rich fluids flowed through cracks in the original limestone and deposited azurite, malachite, and some iron oxides. This roughly 7,200pound block contains around 3,400 pounds of copper, enough to wire 17 single-family homes with electricity. For years, this spectacular specimen made high-pitched sounds when the humidity changed with the seasons, as the porous stone absorbed and released moisture from the air. Now that it is in a controlled environment, it has stopped singing. The red garnets from Gore Mountain get to be over a yard across, but their fractures make them generally unsuitable for cutting. However, we do have two cut stones from this source in the Halls, a 2.5 ct round brilliant and a truly large 6.87 ct. triangular fancy cut. —George E. Harlow
I have never seen this stone before, but I know it is a combination of two distinct and well-known gemstones: the deep and rich blues of azurite and the green shades of malachite. The name azurite is taken from the Persian word “lazhward,” which means “blue.” Malachite is from the Greek word “molochitis‚” which means “mallow plant.” —Joel Aziz
Singing Stone This massive block features vibrant blue azurite and green malachite, both copper ore minerals. It was collected in 1891 from Brisbee, Arizona, a vital source of U.S. copper, and it arrived at the Museum in 1894.
12
Amethyst Geode The quartz in this amethyst geode, one of two giant geodes on display, formed nearly 135 million years
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
There are two geodes from Artigas, Uruguay. Color is variable from a softer to a more brilliant bluish purple. Amethysts from this source should not be exposed to the sun, as they bleach relatively quickly to a pale smoky color. —George E. Harlow
Metasequoia
ago in a hydrothermal process, which requires hot water to transport dissolved minerals. It took millions of years for these crystals to turn from colorless quartz to purple amethyst quartz. Natural, highenergy radiation from the hosting rocks caused the color, which intensified with time and exposure. In addition to purple amethyst quartz, this geode has a layered rim of white, gray, and brown chalcedony, a variety of quartz with ultra small crystals. This geode weighs around 11,000 pounds, more than its sibling specimen—which is taller but lighter—at 9,040 pounds. As I entered the hall, the Amethyst Geode formation was amazing, and the purple crystal inside was sparkling. This dazzling piece made me realize that every retail shop should invest in an affordable piece like this. Undoubtably. —Ravi Jajoo
This slice of petrified dawn redwood from central Oregon turned to stone after being buried by volcanic ash. The volcanic debris enriched the groundwater around it with silica, which mineralized the wood. This dawn redwood lived about 35 million years ago in the present-day Cascade Mountains. Earth’s climate was warmer and wetter then, and the range of the dawn redwood extended above the Arctic Circle. When this dawn redwood was buried, an early volcanic arc was forming as an ocean tectonic plate subducted under western North America. Volcanoes erupted violently and deposited thick layers of volcanic ash, burying the forest of redwoods. Today, native dawn redwoods grow only in a few forests in China. It’s likely their extinction in North America had many causes, including change in climate, ecological shifts, and modifications in global
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
13
topography. The rings of this fossil dawn redwood were preserved, so that you can count them to estimate how long it lived. Though some rings have become distorted over millions of years, experts have counted up to 884 individual bands. Just behind the Amethyst Geode, I found the Metasequoia display, which will inspire unique jewelry creations for the discerning and artistic stone lover. This may be a niche stone, but the thought that a tree will create an item of brilliance 35 years after its natural life ends is awe inspiring. —Ravi Jajoo The seven-foot diameter slice of petrified wood (mostly chalcedony)—although about 35 million years old— represents a tree type (Dawn Redwood) that survives today. Not the jaspery petrified wood, commercial uses are typically tabletops.
for pieces that reflect a connection to nature, star sapphires offer that perfect connection. —Joel Aziz Largest fine star sapphire known. This gem is polished on both sides to yield a star; however, the opposite side from the one displayed has some polishing flaws that scared me once when I had it loose in my hands— I thought something had happened. —George E. Harlow
Fluorescent Rock
—George E. Harlow
Star of India The spectacular Star of India is just over 563 carats, making it the largest gem- quality star sapphire known. It is celebrated for its well-defined star, which is visible on both sides. I have seen this stone before, and, regarding this one, some people referred to the Star of India as the “Stone of Destiny.” They associated the star’s three crossbars with Faith, Hope, and Destiny. They have always been a lovely choice for natural-style jewelry, and as interest increases
14
This slab of rock from Sterling Hill Mine in Ogdensburg, New Jersey, showcases some of the 90 spectacular fluorescent minerals species found at Sterling Hill and neighboring Franklin deposit. The Sterling Hill Mine operated between 1850 and 1986, producing 11 million tons of unusually rich zinc ore. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the mine’s true colors shone, when sparks from a flickering electric lamp revealed the fluorescent minerals in the ore’s body. Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light excites electrons in the minerals. When this high energy is released, for some minerals, the energy is released as light in the lower-energy visible spectrum; this is fluorescence. Under long-wave UV, calcite appears pale pink and the willemite is pale green. Short-wave UV light is at a higher frequency and higher energy than longwave UV. Because of this difference, the color and intensity of light released during fluorescence may also change. Calcite in the slab fluoresces flaming red-orange and willemite glows
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
intense green. Electrons in these crystals were briefly trapped at an excited state, so the glow, or luminescence, persists for a few more moments in some minerals. Fluorescent Rock reminded me of the Ethiopian Opal. But although it has a similar color formation, Fluorescent Rocks move our imagination to a new dimension of “Jewels ... No Light Required.” Literally a Bright Spark in the Dark. —Ravi Jajoo
The Patricia Emerald Found in 1920 by Justo Daza, a local miner, the Patricia Emerald is the largest gem-quality emerald reported from the Chivor Mine in Colombia. Famous for its crystal perfection, vibrant color, and large size (632 carats), the Patricia Emerald is remarkable for having been preserved in its original state and not cut into gems.
Nothing about this connects with gems or jewelry, although willemite (zinc silicate that fluoresces green) gems (a collector stone) have been cut from Franklin, NJ, the other deposit for this fluorescent rock. —George E. Harlow
Organdie Necklace Does this stunning diamond necklace look familiar? Rihanna wore the 110-carat diamond Organdie necklace designed by Michelle Ong on the cover of Essence magazine in February 2021. Now part of the
The necklace is amazing. The thought of someone entering a ballroom in this necklace makes me smile. So much of today’s jewelry is more casual. I love the glitz and glam and jewelry that goes with it.
Being in the emerald business for many years, I know of the world-famous reputation of the Columbian Chivor mine for the highest quality production and yield. How in the world did the museum secure such an unbelievable and rare specimen as the Patricia Emerald? For me, Emeralds will always hold a special place. It was one of my first major products. But to look at this amazing piece, preserved in its original state, I realize that an Emerald must be appreciated both from the raw to the final cut.
—Joanna Gruver
—Ravi Jajoo
Museum’s permanent collection, the necklace is on view in the Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
15
The Patricia is the largest known crystal from Chivor at 126 g. It was recovered in 1920 from a cavity that was blown up by a miner; it was the only crystal to come out whole, although the fragmentary material was sold as rough.
Extraordinary Elbaite
—George E. Harlow
Birthstones Birthstones are associated with the 12 months of the year and the 12 symbols of the Zodiac, but the specific gems for each month or sign have varied over the centuries and across cultures. The list of birthstones common in the US today dates back to the 1900s, when gemological organizations in the United States and Europe arrived at several standardized lists. These are very familiar to me, as LALI Jewels carries all the Gems of the Month (except ours are made in 14K gold). We definitely recommend birthstones to all the retailers as many birthstones are said to protect the wearer from darkness and dangers that persist in the world. People at times wear them to prevent scary nightmares; others believe that they might prevent threats related to natural calamities and unforeseen accidents. —Joel Aziz This is the first time to my knowledge that we have exhibited a selection of birthstones, in spite of the fact they are among the most popular gem exhibits in Museums. Go figure. —George E. Harlow
The Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals feature a stunning elbaite tourmaline, named the Tarugo, which is one of the largest intact mineral crystals ever found. Discovered in 1978, the Tarugo comes from a gem pocket in Minas Gerais, a Brazilian state renowned for its mineral wealth. Tourmaline crystals from this pocket are notable for their exceptional quality and cranberry color. Leaving perhaps the best for last, I have never seen anything as clean and brilliant as the Extraordinary Elbaite Tourmaline crystal. I need one of these for my own personal collection. Having traveled to Brazil, I know that the Minas Gerais region is well known for its production of brilliant gemstones. again, I have never seen anything like this piece: The color, the formations and its sheer scale. Words aren’t really enough to express how this piece affected me. —Ravi Jajoo This Jonas Mine cranberry-colored elbaite is one of the finest elbaite specimens known. The material is very saturated in color so difficult to market as gem rough, but small prisms are mounted for pendants. —George E. Harlow
16
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
Okavango Blue Diamond The dazzling and nearly flawless Okavango Blue Diamond is a “fancy deep blue” diamond in an oval brilliantcut weighing 20.46 carats. It is the centerpiece of a presentation featuring natural diamonds from Botswana.
Wow! Just wow. I love that this unique gem is a true natural beauty. The fact that it is nearly flawless and 20.46 carats is truly an amazing feat of nature. —Joanna Gruver
Credits and Acknowledgements Descriptions for each of the stones and gems highlighted in this story come from notes provided by the communications professionals at the American Museum of Natural History. Credits for nearly all of the images: D. Finnin/©AMNH. Credit for the Okavango Blue Diamond: Okavango Diamond Company. Credit for the Essence Magazine cover: Essence Communications. Special thanks to: Kendra Snyder, Manager of Science Communication, Department of Communications, American Museum of Natural History.
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.
17
MILESTONE William “Bill” Blake Gould, owner of Gould’s Diamond & Jewelry in Glencoe, MN, passed away on January 29 at the of age 76. Our thoughts go out to the Gould family.
CALENDAR May 2022
F
8 Mother's Day 10 All payments must be received in RJO Office 11 Retailer Registration opens: Summer Buying Show 23 - All invoices must be received in RJO Office - Vendor Registration closes: Summer Buying Show 30 Memorial Day - RJO Office is closed
June 2022
10 All payments must be received in RJO Office 19 Father's Day 21 First day of Summer 22 All invoices must be received in RJO Office 27 Last day of Retailer Registration: Summer Buying Show
NEW MEMBERS Avitabile Fine Jewelers Stephen Avitabile Hanover, MA
Referred by Len Pickett, Pickett Brothers, Jacksonville, FL
Bluestone Jewelry (two locations) Marc and Linda Bigelow Truckee, CA and Tahoe City, CA
Referred by Mark Helgerman, Trinity Jewelers, Pittsburgh, PA
Bryan and Son Fine Jewelers Mathew Towle Aberdeen, WA
Referred by Ken Wehl, Gems One, New York, NY
Cresalia Jewelers Joseph Cresalia San Francisco, CA
Referred by RDI Diamonds, Rochester, NY; and GN Diamonds, Philadelphia, PA
Diamond Jim’s Jim Kufeldt Phoenix, AZ
Referred by Diane Levy, Aladdin Gold, Deerfield, IL
Elliott’s Jewelers Elliott Herzlich Huntsville, TX
Referred by Greg Greffin, 24K Rose, Wayzata, MN
Ellsworth Jewelers Kimberly C. Snow Ellsworth, ME
Referred by Vishal Doshi, IDD, New York, NY
Justin’s Watch and Jewelry Justin Wheat Columbus, MS
Knowles Jewelry Landon Bahl Minot, ND Miller’s Jewelry Michael and Deborah Miller Mansfield, OH Parker Jewelers Joshua Durham Carlisle, PA
Referred by Allison Kaufman, Van Nuys, CA
Rae’s Jewelry (second location) George R. Hayes, Jr Louisville, OH
Referred by Tom Hunter, Allison Kaufman, Van Nuys, CA
Referred by Bentley Anderson, Anderson Jewelers, Yazoo City, MS
Thank you to the jewelers referring new members to our group. These jewelers will receive a $1,000 finder’s fee for their referral, payable after a new member has been in good standing for at least six months.
18
FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.