“Never ever ever ever ever give up.� - Winston Churchill
Photograph by Hardy Klahold
Meeting Jessica Kagen Cushman I flew into New York City in the heat wave of September of 2016. You could not feel the air in your lungs it was so hot and humid. Of course Frontier lost my luggage, so I was dressed in my pajamas from travelling the night before, and our airbnb was very tight, however lovely. We set up the interview area so to be ready when she arrived on the scene. I could tell it was Jessica marching down 101st street as she rounded the corner. She walked right up to me and firmly shook my hand. Her bangles clanked as she walked up the steep stairs to my airbnb on the third floor of East 101st. She wore a classic black dress and had these awesome black wedge shoes on that I had to ask if she would remove when we got into the apartment. She was so amenable and pleasant, big smile on her face and she exuded power and strength. We had the room set up for the interview and she tucked herself neatly into the chair as Hardy got the lights set up. Thankfully we had air conditioning as the heat was nearly unbearable. She was fascinating to watch because of all the jewelry she had on. When she realized we had
a close friend in common in Boulder, the doors opened and the interview was beautiful strong and really powerful. Her pain of losing a child was such an influence in her work as originally she made jewelry with her son. She was forthright and clear. Her words were unequivocal. She told the story of her life as a jewelry designer and then brought dozens of pieces for us to look at including the original antique walrus ivory bangles she had found in a vintage store and scratched words onto it. That was the start of the Nantucket Bangle, having something so important to say that scratching on the surface was the only way to say it. She has downsized her studio like so many artists have, and now makes these incredible lockets and modifys them at her bench, as she customizes and assembles them in the studio. They were beautiful and organic looking like French Medieval bijoux combined with contemporary hardware components. We talked and laughed for hours. We talked about so many things, and what jewelry meant for her. Two nights later I was on a packed bus down by Ground Zero and a young woman walked into the bus and was wearing one of those lockets. I call that the Power of Jewelry.
“Go the way your blood beats.” - James Baldwin
Photograph by Hardy Klahold
Meeting Coreen Simpson New York was unseasonably hot this September. We took an uber from our Airbnb in coolness and were early for our meeting. Coreen Simpson was a fascinating interviewee as not only was she the inspiration for the Black Cameo that was ultimately picked up by Avon, but is also a world renowned photographer for her work in the Hip Hop and music world, photographing the stars like David Bowie. Hardy and I sat across the street and waited until 10:00 exactly to walk across the street to her apartment for our interview. The humidity was nearly unbearable as we knocked on her apartment building door and was let in by a kindly soul opening the door. Coreen lives on the 4th floor and has a view of the Hudson River that is unbeatable. She opened the door and was an impressive statuesque force of nature in a long white dress designed by Iman. She has a partner named Keith, and the two of them ushered us into a fascinating apartment that was filled with movie star charm. A black and white houndstooth sofa is where she sat and faced us as fans whirred the heat in from the river and throughout her apartment. A buffet table of her jewelry was awaiting us as if a feast for the eyes. Coreen commands all attention and holds the crowd captive. I setup my camera in front of the mirrors while Keith fixed us lemonade drinks and Hardy started photographing the
environment. We were so excited to meet each other that we started to have a very lively conversation about all things and as it turned out we all four got along famously. We laughed and talked informally for about an hour. Coreen is an all consuming presence and has total starpower. She was a model so she knew how to pose for the camera, and talked very frankly about what it took for her to become a success in the jewelry industry. She has a streetwise edge and knows everyone. As it turns out we had a dear friend and colleague in common, Albert Chong, and even more a coincidence she was the artist in residence when I was in graduate school and Coreen stayed with Albert and his family, just a few doors down from where I lived in Boulder in family housing on Athens Court. As she told me this I had a memory of her walking in my hood. I unfortunately did not see her speak at that time, but knowing Albert broke all the ice, and we were fast friends as of that moment. Her interview was powerful, poignant and astute. She has an enduring quality that just does not quit, and her strength, power, poise and self confidence absorbed every ounce of my attention. I could not take my eyes off of her and was flattered beyond belief when she told me that my questions were really really good ones, and that the interview was interesting and informative. Nothing could prepare us for the purity and clarity of her responses, as well as the clarity of her truthfulness and insight.
“No woman should be ashamed of her success.”
Photograph by Hardy Klahold
Meeting Joan Hornig I had made a mistake on the time for Joan. She was the artist I was very nervous to interview. The heat was brutal so even though we were only six blocks from our airbnb we took a cool taxi and got up the hill with our equipment. We walked into a huge marble black and white tile foyer, and were immediately instructed by the staff to sit down. Gratefully in the cool lobby we sat about ½ hour early for our 3 o’clock appointment. I had some insight from another artist about Joan, that she always wore shades of gray that matched her long lovely hair, and that she was very elegant and gracious. I had spoken with her on the phone before flying in and I was taken by her generosity and accommodating demeanor. The staff hustled about and announced that Mrs. Joan Hornig was approaching! Hardy and I sat like children on the ottoman waiting for her arrival, but at this moment we stood up. In the door strides a tall elegant woman with a large gray sun hat and heels, talking sternly onto the phone. She wore an off the shoulder gray top with a gray leather skirt with a zipper in the front. She brushes her hand and says to us, it’s early. I said we can wait and she looks at us in the eye and says No, come on up. She puts the
phone down and says, it’s my daughter. Does it ever get better? I was shocked by her candor and responded (having two daughters myself) I hope so. She laughed and that broke the ice. Hardy and I walk behind her as she walks to the elevator. We have to take the service elevator as the regular elevator was out of service. I noted the 1800’s intricate wood carving on the elevator walls. When the doors open my eyes could not see all of the work in her home at once. There was art wall to wall from David Smith to Brancusi and Picasso with Chuck Close. There was not a wasted inch of space and everything was integrated into the environment. The pillows on the couch were extensions of the art. The light poured into the room as Hardy and I set up for our job. She dropped onto the couch looked me in the eye, two complete strangers in her home and said “Ask me anything.” After the interview she showed us into the dining room where the 30 foot burled wood buffet table was covered with her jewelry designs as if set for a dinner party. I touched every piece and asked questions. She was so smart, direct, funny and generous, and I was immediately put at ease. I loved everything she said, and everything about her, but I had best to keep that to myself. She is unimpressed with compliments. She is an action person.
“Release the Vision.”
Photograph by Hardy Klahold
Meeting Nancy Anderson I have know Nancy Anderson since the early 2000’s. I used to work in a gallery that carried her work, and I sold several pieces over time. I spoke about her jewelry frequently, and talked to the clients about her process and style. Little could I have known that I would interview her for this book, ‘The Women of Jewelry’ so many years later.
actual cowhides with their ranch brands on them. Inhaling deeply you smell wood and leather, with metal and rust all mixed together like an aromatic cocktail you cannot get enough of. Every single thing is of interest and you could easily spend hours in this beautiful place and never get bored, and never see all of it’s magical contents.
I drove to Niwot to meet Nancy in her brand new ‘Vintage’ studio this week. She is opening her new location this very day as we speak. I literally gasped when I walked in the door. Her studio space and retail store is virtually a museum filled with interesting and jaw dropping pieces of jewelry, belt buckles and assemblage constructions. A whole wall is dedicated to her belt buckles, each an inset surrounded by sparkling lights and lined with newspapers that are nostalgic with pictures of cowgirls and sensational stories from a time past.
First you have to look at the jewelry, but that takes some time, because you actually read the jewelry. The pieces make you laugh, cry and wonder what could possibly be the inspiration for some. They are private dialogues of nostalgia and turquoise, coral and silver. Each belt buckle is a magnificent piece of art, and the dog tags that say ‘Protect This Dog’ made me instantly tear up. I had no idea Nancy was such a powerful woman, or mixed media artist, that her words and sayings were clear and poignant, that her story paralleled so many others, and that I would instantly have a puppy dog crush on her undaunting spirit, and courageous approach. I was totally blown away.
The wood floors creak from new polish on old floorboard, and sprawled across the wood are