in Northwest Oregon ii
From the rolling hills, coastal bays, valley rivers and mountain forests, northwest Oregon is a region of fertile farmlands, covered bridges and Pacific wonders. Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II leads modern explorers on nearly 600 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way. Three Ferries Across the Willamette Part A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles) Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles) Exploring Three Capes – Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles) In Search of Wisdom and Basketball Trophies Philomath to Florence (127 miles)
Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon ii
Roads Less Traveled
Roads Less Traveled
in Northwest Oregon ii Third Edition
Discovering Lesser Known Coastal Byways Waldport to Wren (80 miles) Three Miles of Gold Panning – Yellow Bottom to Quartzville Foster to Idanha (71 miles) Searching for the Devil’s Backbone, Dibble’s House, and Wilhoit’s Spring Sandy to Woodburn (94 miles)
Roads L
in Oregon Steve Arndt
learn more at:
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com
Steve Arndt
d
Travele s s e
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places
Steve Arndt
Roads Less Traveled
in Northwest Oregon II
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places Third Edition
Steve Arndt
About the Roads Less Traveled Series: "The series will stitch together the state's history and habitat for anyone who pays as much attention to what they're driving through as where they're going." — Bill Monroe, The Oregonian
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com Also by Steve Arndt: Roads Less Traveled in Northeast Oregon Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon I Roads Less Traveled in North-Central Oregon Roads Less Traveled in Southeast Oregon Forthcoming books in the series: South-Central Oregon Southwest Oregon, Second Edition
Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II, Third Edition A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places Steve Arndt Copyright Š 2011, 2008 Steve Arndt All rights reserved. Photographs by Diane Arndt of Woodburn, Oregon Maps by Justin Eslinger, Box Lunch Design Printed in the United States of America ISBN: 978-0-9844294-2-4
Front Cover: Oregon Coast near Cape Meares (Photograph by Diane Arndt) Back Cover (from top to bottom) Road between Aurora and Butteville Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport Champoeg Winery Chitwood Bridge Quartzville Creek (Photographs by Diane Arndt) Designed by
Justin Eslinger | Box Lunch Design boxlunchdesign@gmail.com
Dedicated to our much anticipated first grandchild Lia
(Diane Magdalena Liani Vega)
May she inherit from us a passion for exploration and a lifelong thirst for knowledge. May she eagerly anticipate what lies beyond each bend in the road, and may she grow to have a deep appreciation of Oregon’s beauty and splendor, rich history and cultural diversity.
Lia's first road trip
I shall be telling this with a sigh Somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference. —Robert Frost (1874-1963) from his poem, "The Road Not Taken"
Robert Frost's yellow wood
Acknowledgements Special Thanks to: The Wheeler City Manager Walt Slayter grandson of an early Blachly settler Judy Gibbs Waldport museum worker Scott McArthur for information about Monmouth and Bethel Stan Hiller long time resident of St. Paul Harmony l. Courtney proofreader extraordinaire Numerous residents of Hubbard who freely shared about their community Merchants in Wheeler City of Donald City of Aurora Independence Historical Society Monmouth-Independence Chamber of Commerce Pacific City Visitors Center
The Tillamook Museum and staff Tillamook Visitors Center Members of the Bay City Methodist Church Teachers at Cornerstone Academy in Bellfountain Monroe Merchants Blachly Post office employees Canby Museum employees Canby Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center Owners of the Crow General Store Benton County Museum workers Peggy Dinges, Daniel’s Photography; Vicki Musser, City of Woodburn; and Donna Gramse, local historian for sharing information about Woodburn All who provided assistance in the production of this book or shared information about their communities and with sincere apologies to anyone not mentioned by name.
Contents Introduction
i
Three Ferries Across the Willamette
1
Part A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles) Canby Barlow Whiskey Hill Hubbard Aurora Butteville Champoeg Donald Broadacres St. Paul Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles) Wheatland Hopewell Spring Valley (Zena) Bethel Oak Grove Rickreall Monmouth Independence Buena Vista
Exploring Three Capes — Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles) Pacific City Cape Kiwanda Sandlake Netarts Oceanside Cape Meares Tillamook Bay City Garibaldi Mohler Wheeler Nehalem Elsie
In Search of Wisdom and Basketball Trophies
Philomath to Florence (127 miles) Philomath Bellfountain Alpine Monroe Franklin
3 6 7 8 10 13 14 15 16 17 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 32
33 35 36 37 38 39 41 43 46 47 49 50 51 52
53 55 57 58 59 61
Alvadore Elmira Veneta Crow Vaughn Noti Blachly Triangle Lake Swisshome Florence
Discovering Lesser Known Coastal Byways Waldport to Wren (80 miles) Waldport Newport Toledo Elk City Chitwood Eddyville Blodgett Wren
Three Miles of Gold Panning — Yellow Bottom to Quartzville Foster to Idanha (71 miles) Foster Quartzville Marion Forks Idanha
62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71
73 75 77 79 80 81 82 83 84
85 87 89 91 92
Searching for the Devil’s Back Bone, Dibble’s House and Wilhoit’s Spring 93 Sandy to Woodburn (77 miles) Sandy Eagle Creek Currinsville Estacada Springwater Colton Mulino Molalla Wilhoit Scotts Mills Marquam Silverton Mt. Angel Gervais St. Louis Woodburn
95 97 98 99 100 101 103 104 106 107 109 110 113 115 117 118
Canby
er
R iv
Wil la
m
St. Paul
219
Hopewell
Bethel
5
Wheatland
Monmouth
221
Wil la
51
tt e
5 99E
Independence
99W
PART A
5
99E
PART B
Canby . . . . . . . 3
Barlow . . . . . . . 6
Whiskey Hill . . . . . . . 7
Hubbard . . . . . . . 8
Aurora . . . . . . . 10
Butteville . . . . . . . 13
Champoeg . . . . . . . 14
Donald . . . . . . . 15
Broadacres . . . . . . . 16
St. Paul . . . . . . . 17
Wheatland . . . . . . . 21
Hopewell . . . . . . . 22
Spring Valley (Zena). . . . . . . 23
Canby to Wheatland Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista Part A:
1
Bethel . . . . . . . 24
Oak Grove . . . . . . . 25
Rickreall . . . . . . . 26
Monmouth . . . . . . . 27
Independence . . . . . . . 29
Buena Vista . . . . . . . 32
PART B
Buena Vista
99E
OREGON
er
me
99E
211
5
R iv
Rickreall
99W
Barlow
99E
22
22
PART A
Oak Grove
Aurora
99E
Hubbard Whiskey Hill
99E
Spring Valley (Zena) 99W
5
5
221
5
Donald
Broadacres
221
99W
Champoeg 219
Butteville
e e tt
Three Ferries Across the Willamette Part A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles) Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles)
The 309 mile-long Willamette River is the life-blood of our state and the Willamette Valley, home to more than 70% of Oregon’s population. The Willamette River is one of the few rivers in the world that flows south to north, a geologic phenomena caused during the ice age when the Missoula Floods eroded the Columbia Gorge and carved the Willamette Valley. Three ferries operate on Oregon’s longest river: Canby, Wheatland and Buena Vista. For a dollar and change, cars are ushered across the river on any of these ferries. The Willamette River is used for navigation, irrigation, and recreation and played an important role in establishing Oregon City, Portland and Salem as major historical and population centers. The rich soils and the mild climate of the Willamette Valley made the area a coveted destination for pioneers, and early settlers homesteaded the fertile farmlands on both sides of the river. This route begins in Canby, a short nine miles south of Oregon City, then winds through Wheatland, where Salem actually began, and concludes in Buena Vista, once famous for its fine pottery. Forty-three miles by crow, ninetysix miles by car, the route passes through many of Oregon’s oldest communities.
Wheatland Ferry
This trip will be divided into two parts, A and B. Part A begins in Canby and the first of the three ferry landings. Part B begins at Wheatland, the location of the second ferry, and ends in Buena Vista, the third of the ferry crossings. 2
Part A:
Canby to Wheatland
Canby Elevation: 152 feet Location: 45.16.000 N • 122.40.007 W Services: gas, food, lodging, RV, B&B The first settler in the area was James Baker, who came to Canby in 1838 after driving cattle through the Willamette Valley from California. In 1848, Philander Lee and his wife Anna purchased land, farmed eighty acres of apple trees, and sold most of their apples to the gold-rush miners in California. In 1868, Joseph Baker settled on Baker Prairie (near the present Baker Cemetery), and opened the community’s first general store. In 1870 the railroad arrived and the town was platted with streets wide enough to “drive two span of oxen and a freight wagon.” The post office opened in 1888. By 1890, Canby, named for General E.R.S. Canby, who was killed during peace talks with Modoc Indians in 1873, boasted a bank, general store, blacksmith shop, department store, and three hotels. The city incorporated in 1893 and is now one of the fastest growing communities in the state.
Canby Chapel
Points of Interest • Site of Earthen Mound (NW 1st and Elm) Canby was an important trading location for nomadic Native Americans. Large quantities of artifacts and the remains of a Native American fortification were unearthed here.
• Canby Bank and Trust Building (302 NW 1st) Built in 1906 by O. Roscoe Mack and known as the Arestad Building, this is the oldest bank building in Canby. A geologic marker is located in the concrete steps near the front entrance.
• Masonic Lodge (288 NW 1st) The lodge was built in 1912 and today is used by the Masons, Eastern Star, Job’s Daughters and Rainbow Girls.
William Knight Residence
3
• William Knight Building (394 NW 1st) This 1890 building was constructed of hand-planed lumber. Originally, the ground floor was home to the Carlton and Rosenkrans Department Store and the upstairs housed the first City Council Chambers.
• William Mack House (139 SW 2nd) The founder of Macksburg (west of town), had this home built in 1879. It was completely restored in 1975 and is the second oldest home in Canby.
• United Methodist Church Building (NW 3rd and Elm) The tall, white-steepled church was built by Methodists in 1884 and was relocated to this spot in 1912, the year it was sold to the Catholic Church.
• William Knight Residence (525 SW 4th) Knight was Canby’s first postmaster and later Clackamas County Sheriff. His residence, built in 1875, is one of Canby’s oldest. • Canby Historical Society (888 NE 4th) The oldest commercial building in Canby, the circa 1871 train depot, was moved to its current location from Ivy and Main, where Blockbuster Video now stands. An old Southern Pacific caboose sits in front of the depot. The rail line from Portland to Canby was built by Ben Holladay and became part of the Oregon and California Railroad. The Clackamas County Fairgrounds are located adjacent to the depot museum.
Canby Train Depot • Canby Chamber of Commerce (191 SE 2nd) Information, brochures and a friendly staff.
• William Bair House (375 NW 3rd) Bair, twice Canby’s mayor, had this Craftsman home built in 1912.
• Methodist Church (NW 2nd and Elm) Frank Dodge built this missionstyle church in 1913. The original stained glass windows were moved to the newer United Methodist Church located on Territorial Road.
• Wait Park Block (NW 3rd to 4th and Grant to Holly) The block was named for Aaron Wait, first chief justice of the Oregon Supreme Court, who served from 1859 to 1862. A roller skating rink once stood in the center of the park. Aaron Wait’s home still stands between North Ivy and North Holly.
• Hoyt Brown House (409 NW 2nd) Brown, a Southern Pacific Railroad official, built this home in 1900. • F.A. Rosenkrans House (451 NW 2nd) This 1890 home was owned by one of the co-owners of Canby’s first department store.
• Maple Trees (NW 4th and Grant) The Canby Civic Women’s Club planted the trees between 1908 and 1925. They also planted maples on the local school grounds and in many yards around town.
• Otto Krueger House (216 NW 5th) Krueger, a builder of many homes and businesses in Canby, constructed this bungalow in 1910. • James Vinyard House (290 NW 5th) This house was built about 1913 by James Vinyard who owned a mercantile store that stood at the corner of NW 1st and Holly. Vinyard served as Canby’s mayor from 1933 until 1946. • Carlton and Rosenkrans Department Store (181 N Grant) In 1912, after being in business for 21 years, Carlton and Rosenkrans built this large, modern store. At the time, it was Clackamas County’s largest department store. It was gutted by fire in 1973 and is known as the Graham Building. 4
in Northwest Oregon ii
From the rolling hills, coastal bays, valley rivers and mountain forests, northwest Oregon is a region of fertile farmlands, covered bridges and Pacific wonders. Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II leads modern explorers on nearly 600 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way. Three Ferries Across the Willamette Part A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles) Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles) Exploring Three Capes – Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles) In Search of Wisdom and Basketball Trophies Philomath to Florence (127 miles)
Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon ii
Roads Less Traveled
Roads Less Traveled
in Northwest Oregon ii Third Edition
Discovering Lesser Known Coastal Byways Waldport to Wren (80 miles) Three Miles of Gold Panning – Yellow Bottom to Quartzville Foster to Idanha (71 miles) Searching for the Devil’s Backbone, Dibble’s House, and Wilhoit’s Spring Sandy to Woodburn (94 miles)
Roads L
in Oregon Steve Arndt
learn more at:
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com
Steve Arndt
d
Travele s s e
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places
Steve Arndt