in Southwest Oregon
From the rolling surf of the Pacific coast to the whitewater rivers of the Cascade Range, the southwest corner of Oregon is a land rich with history and stunning in its natural beauty— especially along its back roads and byways. Roads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon leads modern explorers on more than 700 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way. Incense, Gold, and Unexplained Natural Forces of Nature Myrtle Creek to Gold Hill (145 miles) Gold Mines, Ghost Towns and Caves Jacksonville to Wilderville (57 miles) Option 1: Wilderville to Oregon Caves (58 miles) Option 2: Wilderville to Azalea (66 miles)
Roads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon
Roads Less Traveled
Roads Less Traveled
in Southwest Oregon Second Edition
From Historic Oakland Through the Lookingglass to the Most Remote Place in Oregon Oakland to Myrtle Point (81 miles) Raising Cranberries, Logging, Gold in the Sand Bandon to Gold Beach (115 miles) The Road to Saragosa – the Ghost Town That Never Was Florence to Creswell (89 miles) From the Land of Promise to Castles in the Sun Goshen to Reedsport (102 miles)
Roads L
in Oregon Steve Arndt
learn more at:
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com
Steve Arndt
d
Travele s s e
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places
Steve Arndt
Roads Less Traveled
in Southwest Oregon
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places Second Edition
Steve Arndt
About the Roads Less Traveled Series: "The series will stitch together the state's history and habitat for anyone who pays as much attention to what they're driving through as where they're going." — Bill Monroe, The Oregonian
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com Also by Steve Arndt: Roads Less Traveled in Northeast Oregon Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon I Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II Roads Less Traveled in North-Central Oregon Roads Less Traveled in Southeast Oregon Forthcoming books in the series: South-Central Oregon
Roads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon, Second Edition A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places Steve Arndt Copyright Š 2004, 2012 Steve Arndt All rights reserved. Photographs by Diane Arndt of Woodburn, Oregon Photograph of Steve and Diane Arndt, Page 127, by Anne Conner of Coquille, Oregon Maps by Justin Eslinger, Box Lunch Design Printed in the United States of America ISBN: 978-0-9844294-5-5
Front Cover: Church in Golden (Photograph by Diane Arndt) Back Cover (from top to bottom) Pearsony Falls near Prospect Mary D. Hume in Gold Beach Jeremiah Nunan House in Jacksonville Florence Bridge in Florence King Estate Winery near Lorane (Photographs by Diane Arndt) Designed by
Justin Eslinger | Box Lunch Design boxlunchdesign@gmail.com
Dedicated with love, respect and appreciation to Diane Arndt My life partner, photographer of this series of books, and co-traveler on life’s roads less traveled.
I shall be telling this with a sigh Somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference. —Robert Frost (1874-1963) from his poem, "The Road Not Taken"
Acknowledgements Special Thanks to: My wife Diane for taking all the photos, (after all of my early goofs), proofreading, editing, her company and support on each trip, and for allowing me to follow my passion about the back roads of Oregon. Jeff and Juanita Fagan good friends for many years, who graciously opened up their home while I did research in their area. The many visitor centers, museums, and chambers of commerce: Bandon, Canyonville, Cottage Grove, Coquille, Creswell, Florence, Glendale, Gold Beach, Jacksonville, Myrtle Creek, Myrtle Point, Oakland, Powers, Reedsport, Riddle, Sutherlin, Yoncalla. Generous folks who opened up their homes and businesses and visited with me about the wonders, facts, and fascinations of the southwest corner of our great state. The following is only a partial listing of the special people who left their fingerprint in this volume of Roads Less Traveled: Anne Conner, Director of the Coquille Library Jean Ivey, Coquille Sentinel Dorothy Taylor, Coquille Historian Tammy Wade, Safeway Pharmacy, Coquille Bob and Debbie Russell, Owners of the Butte
Creek Mill in Eagle Point Barbara Jones, Apple Rose Cottage Gifts and Antiques, Gold Hill Christine Lee, City of Drain Office Workers, Back to Fitness Chiropractic Clinic, Yoncalla Elkton City Hall Staff The owner and caretaker of Stephens Church and School The wonderful people of Riddle – your help was greatly appreciated! The owner of the Glendale Coffee and Book Shop The good citizens of Oakland for helping with names and addresses The operator and owner of the Azalea Store The Pastor of the Gold Beach Presbyterian Church The volunteer workers at the Senior Center in Powers All who provided assistance in the production of this book or shared information about their communities and with sincere apologies to anyone not mentioned by name.
Contents Foreword i Incense, Gold, and Unexplained Natural Forces of Nature
1
Myrtle Creek to Gold Hill (145 miles) Myrtle Creek 3 Riddle 6 Canyonville 7 Days Creek 10 Milo 11 Tiller 12 Drew 13 Trail 14 Prospect 16 Butte Falls 17 Eagle Point 20 Gold Hill 23
Gold Mines, Ghost Towns and Caves 25 Jacksonville to Wilderville (57 miles) Jacksonville Ruch Applegate Provolt Williams Murphy Wilderville
27 32 33 34 35 37 38
Option 1: Wilderville to Oregon Caves (58 miles) Wonder 39 Kerby 40 O'Brien 41 Takilma 42 Holland 43 Oregon Caves 44 Option 2: Wilderville to Azalea (66 miles) Merlin Galice Wolf Creek Glendale Azalea
45 48 50 52 54
From Historic Oakland Through the Lookingglass to the Most Remote Place in Oregon
55
Oakland to Myrtle Point (81 miles) Oakland Sutherlin Stephens
57 60 61
Umpqua Melrose Lookingglass Tenmile Camas Valley Remote Bridge Myrtle Point
62 64 65 67 68 69 71 72
Raising Cranberries, Logging, Gold in the Sand
75
Bandon to Gold Beach (115 miles) Bandon Riverton Coquille Myrtle Point Broadbent Powers Agness Gold Beach
The Road to Saragosa – The Ghost Town That Never Was Florence to Creswell (89 miles) Florence Mapleton Austa Lorane Siuslaw Creswell
From the Land of Promise to Castles in the Sun
Goshen to Reedsport (102 miles) Goshen Creswell Walker Saginaw Cottage Grove Royal Lorane Curtin Drain Yoncalla Elkton Scottsburg Reedsport
77 79 80 83 84 86 88 89
91 93 97 99 101 102 103
105 107 108 109 110 111 115 116 117 118 120 121 124 126
5 99
Myrtle Creek
Days Creek
Riddle Canyonville
Milo
Tiller 227
Drew
5 99
62
Prospect
227
5
62
Trail
62
99
Butte Falls
234
Gold Hill
99 5
62
234 99
Eagle Point
62
OREGON 5
Myrtle Creek . . . . . . . 3
Riddle . . . . . . . 6 Canyonville . . . . . . . 7
Days Creek . . . . . . . 10
Milo . . . . . . . 11
Myrtle Creek to Gold Hill 1
Tiller . . . . . . . 12 Drew . . . . . . . 13 Trail . . . . . . . 14 Prospect . . . . . . . 16
Butte Falls . . . . . . . 17
Eagle Point . . . . . . . 20
Gold Hill . . . . . . . 23
Incense, Gold, and Unexplained Natural Forces of Nature Myrtle Creek to Gold Hill (145 miles)
With its beginnings in the lower elevations of southern Douglas County, this route steadily climbs through the scenic Willamette National Forest, leading modern explorers through forestlands, basalt hills, and rugged mountains before ending in the Rogue River Valley near Gold Hill. Along the way the route crosses the Roseburg and Umpqua Divide, a small range of volcanic mountains that separate Roseburg and Medford, and that form the headwaters of both the Umpqua and Rogue River watersheds. Thousands of years ago, erupting volcanoes – most notably Mount Mazama, which formed Crater Lake – spread basalt and lava throughout the region, creating the higher elevations. The frequent changes in vegetation found in the region are caused by stream flows, elevation changes, and soil composition. Fishing, rafting, hiking, and exploring draw numerous travelers to either side of the divide, but few people live in the remote communities found along the tour route.
Old wagon at Wood-Carlson House in Eagle Point
2
Myrtle Creek Elevation: 640 feet Location: 43.01.123 N • 123.17.317 W Services: gas, food, lodging, RV Located on the Applegate Trail, Myrtle Creek was first settled in 1851 and named for the area’s numerous myrtlewood trees. Myrtle Creek opened its post office in 1854 and was platted in 1865. Hooker Road follows the old military road that ran through town, which allowed the stage line to come through in 1860 and the telegraph in 1862. The first lumber mills opened in the 1870s. Prune orchards were planted the same year, peaked in production in the early 1900s, and died out by the Depression. The railroad came to Myrtle Creek in 1882, fostering business opportunities and community growth. However, soon after incorporating in 1893, the city went bankrupt and had to re-incorporate in 1903. Gold was discovered in the nearby creek and more than $100,000 worth of gold was mined. A major fire in 1911 destroyed several blocks of the original town, prompting the city to pass an ordinance that businesses must be built of brick. Myrtle Creek’s economic roots are in logging, mining, and farming. Its location on the Umpqua River makes it a recreational gateway, with rafting, fishing, hiking, and hunting available within a short drive of town. Oregon Senator Jeff Merkley was born here. Myrtle Creek is home to the South Douglas Rodeo, held every June.
Simon Selig House
Points of Interest • Horse Creek Covered Bridge (at Millsite Park off Volunteer Way) This 1930 bridge, which first stood in Cottage Grove, spans Myrtle Creek and connects a downtown parking area with twenty-acre Millsite Park. Developed on the site of what was once Myrtle Creek’s largest lumber mill, the park is a community showplace with many amenities including a skate park, rest rooms, amphitheater, playground, and ball fields.
3
• Myrtle Creek (runs through the park and downtown area) After it was dammed in 1855, Myrtle Creek provided water for the city and power for a gristmill. In 1912 a planer mill was built near the gristmill and used the same source of waterpower. Parts of the dam, which was dismantled in the 1930s, are still evident near the covered bridge.
• Hooker Road (on Dole Road above B Street) Developed by Joe Hooker, this military road was used until 1882 to transport goods to the mines and other locations. Park near B Street and take the short hike up the grassy, rock-strewn hill to view the old wagon trail ruts. Watch out for poison oak.
• Myrtle Creek Bordello (near Dole Road and between A and B Streets) The house on the left side of the road approximately halfway up the hill was a turn-of-the-century brothel.
• IOOF Hall (231 Main) Located in the 1872 Moore Building.
• Olde Town (1st to 4th; Main, Oak, and Pleasant) Many old homes and buildings are labeled with dates of construction and names of original owners.
• First Christian Church (330 2nd) The more than 100 year-old church stands proudly above the downtown core area.
• H.M. Shirtcliff Building (Main and 1st) Built in 1935, now the St. Vincent DePaul store.
• Myrtle Creek Chamber of Commerce (425 2nd) Located in the old Telephone building.
• Rice Brothers and Adams General Merchandise Store (136 Main) Dates to 1915.
• United Methodist Church (437 2nd) Also standing atop the hill, this church and its adjacent parsonage have served the community since 1892.
• Myrtle Creek State Bank (139 Main) Built in 1913, it is now the Citizens Bank.
• Gabbert House (230 1st) Today this century-old home is a general store.
• UMC Parsonage (439 2nd) Built the same year as the church.
• Evergreen Park (Howland and Cedar) This park has restrooms, playground, and picnic areas. • Simon Selig House (231 3rd) Built in 1900 and now a B&B/Tea Room. Locals call it the "Painted Lady." • IOOF Cemetery (off Craig Street, on the hill above the city) Dates to the late 1800s. • Pioneer Cemetery (take Main south to Pioneer Way) Dates to the 1870s. • McGee House (406 2nd) 1903. • Myrtle Creek Grange (Riverside Drive) 0.4 miles from the Neal Lane Covered Bridge. • Bernard Pitzer-Smith House (15892 Old Highway 99S) Circa 1875. • Neal Lane Covered Bridge (on Days Creek Cut-off Road, 1.0 miles to Neal Lane) Erected in 1929, this is the shortest covered bridge in the state.
Horse Creek Covered Bridge
• China Ditch (follow Myrtle Creek to Lee’s Creek Road and China Ditch) In 1889, more than 200 Chinese began digging this twenty-milelong ditch, whose purpose was to supply water to nearby hydraulic mining. Inadequate funding, however, prevented payment to many of the workers, which resulted in an 1893 work stoppage. As a result, the last three miles of the ditch were not completed, and plans for mining the area abruptly ended. The BLM is preserving the historical significance of the dig, and permits gold panning on public lands. 4
in Southwest Oregon
From the rolling surf of the Pacific coast to the whitewater rivers of the Cascade Range, the southwest corner of Oregon is a land rich with history and stunning in its natural beauty— especially along its back roads and byways. Roads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon leads modern explorers on more than 700 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way. Incense, Gold, and Unexplained Natural Forces of Nature Myrtle Creek to Gold Hill (145 miles) Gold Mines, Ghost Towns and Caves Jacksonville to Wilderville (57 miles) Option 1: Wilderville to Oregon Caves (58 miles) Option 2: Wilderville to Azalea (66 miles)
Roads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon
Roads Less Traveled
Roads Less Traveled
in Southwest Oregon Second Edition
From Historic Oakland Through the Lookingglass to the Most Remote Place in Oregon Oakland to Myrtle Point (81 miles) Raising Cranberries, Logging, Gold in the Sand Bandon to Gold Beach (115 miles) The Road to Saragosa – the Ghost Town That Never Was Florence to Creswell (89 miles) From the Land of Promise to Castles in the Sun Goshen to Reedsport (102 miles)
Roads L
in Oregon Steve Arndt
learn more at:
www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com
Steve Arndt
d
Travele s s e
A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places
Steve Arndt