vt if6 u by robertcal46

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Food 94

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE Agnes chef Ben Williamson shares his favourite dishes from the wood-fired Brisbane hotspot. Harissa chicken, smoked labne and charred lime.....97 Charred carrots, smoked labne and mandarin kosho .....................................98 Blue mackerel with strawberry salsa .................98 Lamb ribs, roasted sesame cream and mountain pepper dressing................. 101 Basket-grilled rainbow chard .................................... 103 Redlove and almond clafoutis ............................... 103

SPICE TRAIL Chef Tony Tan showcases some of his red-hot dishes that have chillies front and centre. Dan dan mian......................... 106 Cambodian coconut water soup with prawns ............. 106 Eggplant, coconut and tamarind sambal ................ 110 Hunan steamed fish with salted chillies and fermented black beans.... 110 Chicken pepper stir-fry......... 112 Nyonya pork spare ribs........ 112

114

SMOKY SWEETS Thalia Ho shares desserts from her new book, Wild Sweetness. S’mores pie.............................. 116 Black tahini brittle ice-cream ..............................117 Walnut snowballs ...................117

118

WINTER FEASTING Immerse yourself in Tasmania’s coolest season with recipes from Winter Wild by Janice Sutton. Fire-charred corn with spicy miso butter .............. 120 Spring Bay mussels in a spicy tomato and wine sauce ......................... 122 Settlers Negroni ................... 122 Pollo al Coñac ........................ 123

J LY The fire

JULY 2021 ON THE COVER Harissa chicken, smoked labne and charred lime (p97)

Recipe Ben Williamson Photography James Moffatt Styling Sophia Young

magshop.com.au/GMT Details p00

Regulars 8 21 22 24 26 28 30 34 41 61 62 126 136 146 154

UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news. FIVE OF A KIND Toasted muesli. QUICK WORD Camilla Freeman-Topper. KITCHEN GARDENER Seasonal secrets. COMMUNITY X KYLIE Oliver Costello. WINE COUNTRY Hilltops, NSW. COCKTAIL HOUR Hot Toddy. REVIEW Dining out. FAST Simple, everyday meals. ANATOMY OF A DISH Cuban sandwich. MASTERCLASS Basque cheesecake. THE ART OF TRAVEL Fire feasting. CHECKING IN The Intrepid Hotel, Wellington.

Features 58

JUST ADD SMOKE We’ve gathered the smoky pantry items perfect for adding deep, earthy flavours to your cooking.

64 70 74 82 86

BOOM TOWN New venues are firing Melbourne up with some post-lockdown optimism, writes Michael Harden.

FIRE STARTER Alexandra Carlton explores the rising popularity of charcoal and wood-fired barbecuing.

PLAYING WITH FIRE Cherry Moon’s Kimmy Gastmeier shares her passion for wood-fired baking, writes Tristan Lutze.

TOO HOT TO HANDLE Chefs and restaurateurs share their chilli disasters and spicy mishaps with Georgie Meredith.

FIRESIDE COMFORT Stay cosy and content this winter with our ultimate hibernation guide on what to watch, read and drink.

Travel 128

FIRE AND ICE Joanna Hunkin explores the hottest destination this winter: Queenstown.

STYLE Home, fashion and beauty. OBJECTS OF DESIRE Candles.

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT (SPICE TRAIL).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present. This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Are publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at aremedia.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Are Media may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Are Media in the conduct of the Reader Offer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Are’s Privacy Officer either by email at privacyofficer@aremedia.com.au or mail to Privacy Officer, Are Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.

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BLACK BEAUTY Michael Harden indulges in the delights of Tasmania’s truffle season.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Editor Joanna Hunkin Creative Director Hannah Blackmore Deputy Editor Karlie Verkerk

Food Group Food Director Sophia Young Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Art Art Director Lauren de Sousa Group Designers Jeannel Cunanan & Kelsie Walker

Words Digital Editor Yvonne C Lam Writer Jordan Kretchmer Writer & Editorial Coordinator Georgie Meredith

Contributors Nadia Bailey, Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Kylie Kwong, Tristan Lutze, Grace MacKenzie, Samantha Payne, Simon Rickard

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Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia phone +61 2 9282 8758 email askgourmet@aremedia.com.au website gourmettraveller.com.au Instagram @gourmettraveller Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are Media Pty Limited and is used under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato, 8 Priddle St, Warwick Farm, NSW, 2170. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. Price in Australia, $9.99; in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates: 1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque; NZ (airspeed) 1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 5 ISSN 1034-9006

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L E AV E NO DREAM UNTURNED

Setting out to make the world’s best wine was quite a dream. The biggest, in fact. Each day that dream still drives us. And, sometimes it drives us mad. But with every vine, grape, barrel and bottle we inch closer. We might die trying, but we won’t die wondering. And along the way we’ll be sure to make some pretty amazing wine.

Contributors

Tony Tan’s chilli recipes

BEN WILLIAMSON

THALIA HO

TONY TAN

FIONA DONNELLY

Where there’s smoke, p94 Brisbane-based chef Ben Williamson has always had a knack for cooking over fire, and his modern Australian grill restaurant Agnes has helped him realise the full potential of flame-kissed cooking. In this issue, he shares recipes that harness the flavour of fire, from subtly smoked labne to emberroasted chicken. “It sounds like a cliché but cooking with fire really does tap into your DNA in a way,” he says.

Smoky sweets, p114 Award-winning food blogger Thalia Ho has forged a career centred around decadent recipes matched with her own poetic prose and photography. In this issue, we share recipes from her new book, Wild Sweetness, and its enigmatic smokethemed chapter, which sees sweet treats imbued with subtle smoky flavours. “It’s intense and rich, wintered, and the one I delight in most.” says Ho.

Spice trail, p104 In his book Hong Kong Food City and now via his revamped cooking school, Tony Tan showcases Asia’s diverse cuisines all while adding an approachable spin. For this issue, Tan has turned up the heat and designed a chillifuelled menu not for the faint-hearted. “I’m at the point of my career where I’m happy to cook and teach the food and recipes I love, which all speak of authenticity and versatility,” says Tan.

Biànca review, p35 Brisbane food writer Fiona Donnelly is lucky to have called the likes of Dublin, London and Lisbon home. But for the past 17 years she’s focused on the ever-evolving culinary scene in Queensland. “We’ve never enjoyed quite the volume of world-class venues now on offer,” she says. “Watching this reinvention continue makes me hugely optimistic.” This issue, she reviews buzzy Italian newcomer Biànca.

chef

104

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

photographer and writer

chef and author

writer

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT (MAIN) & BENITO MARTIN (WILLIAMSON).

Editor’s letter

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Let’s be clear: we know cooking with fire is nothing new. It is as old as humankind itself; the very reason we have survived and evolved to the point we’re at today. But while many societies have kept fire at the centre of their food culture, burning bright, others have turned their backs on it, favouring more efficient, convenient methods. Because while it may be the most primitive method of cooking, to do it well can prove quite the challenge. Which is part of the reason cooking with fire is experiencing such a resurgence. For many, there is enormous pleasure to be found in building the perfect fire; in experimenting with different types of wood and the subtleties they bring to a dish. It can be a laborious process – with the potential to go horribly wrong. The rewards can be rich and delicious but it’s a high-stakes game; take your eye off the prize and your hard work – and dinner – can be gone in a flash. In this issue, we’re turning up the heat and cooking with both fire and chilli, with recipes from Ben Williamson, Mat Lindsay, Tony Tan and more. We’re also serving up fireside comfort with our winter hibernation guide – and we have everything you need to plan the ultimate fireside retreat in the winter wonderland that is Queenstown.

R ME

The Caley Speaking of special, Yalumba has released its fifth vintage of The Caley, capturing the very best of Coonawara cabernet and Barossa shiraz. At $365 a bottle, it’s one to cellar for a special future occasion. yalumba.com

Trudon boutique Trudon candles have been lighting Europe’s grandest residences for nearly 400 years. Now, Australia has welcomed its first boutique in Sydney’s Paddington, just next door to Santa Maria Novella. trudon.com.au Coravin Pivot There’s no excuse to drink bad wine with the new Coravin Pivot making it even easier to savour a glass of something special. The compact system can be used on cork or screw-top bottles, keeping wine fresh for up to four weeks. coravin.com.au

VE BEEN

PROV

HERE W E’

WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & ANDREW CHRISTIE (QUEENSTOWN)

Editor’s letter

magshop.com.au/gmt Details p90

Manta La dolce vita vibes are high at Manta on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf, where the seafood arrives fresh from Port Stephens daily, including this delightful tasting plate. Perfect with a crisp glass of Champagne in the sunshine. KARLIE VERKERK, DEPUTY EDITOR

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Your design statement...

... lies within.

The diference is Gaggenau. Grand architecture demands grand interior pieces. Refrigeration is one such design element and should speak to who you are. Every Gaggenau piece is distinctively designed, crafted from exceptional materials, ofers professional performance, and has done so since 1683. Make a statement: www.gaggenau1683.com.au

NEWS J U LY

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

Naumi Studio Hotel, Wellington

TA L L O R D E R New restaurant openings, a Southern Highlands escape and new Champagne vintages.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S MELBOURNE Despite a 14-day lockdown Melbourne’s hospitality troops are firing on all cylinders, with new openings still coming through. One of the most hotly anticipated arrivals is Aru, the latest venture from Sunda’s executive chef Khanh Nguyen. The menu rests on the flavours of south-east and east Asia, remixed for the modern Australian restaurant scene, underscored with fire, smoke, fermentation and curing techniques, all overlaid with Nguyen’s Vietnamese-Australian heritage. Take the bites and snacks: a Vietnamese-Bunnings sausage sanga hybrid, which sees a duck sausage glazed with leatherwood honey, and served on soft white bread with caramelised onion and hoisin sauce. Potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chilli sauce? They’ve shape-shifted into hasselback potatoes with a spiced herb sauce and a dressing of Laughing Cow cheese, and 12

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

a potato-peel miso from their head of fermentation, Dennis Yong. Collingwood has welcomed a real-life incarnation of Hope St Radio, transforming the digital music station into a bricks-andmortar wine bar. The venue is the first to open up within the new Collingwood Yards precinct and will have you both grooving and boozing. The menu features an extensive list of natural-leaning wines, alongside snacks such as oysters; focaccia with caramelised garlic, tarragon butter and anchovies; and kingfish tartare. Finally, Anchovy’s Thi Le and Jia-Yen Lee are set to open a yet-to-be-named bánh mì thi.t store right next door to their modern Vietnamese restaurant. After selling takeaway rolls of khao jee pâté, the Laotian baguette sandwich traditionally stuffed with pâté, pickles, herbs and sai gork (Lao pork-and-herb sausage) throughout lockdowns, the pair will turn their sandwich side-hustle into a permanent business, five days a week.

ADDITIONAL REPORTING YVONNE C LAM (ARU & ANCHOVY). PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BLACHFORD (HOPE ST RADIO), JIWON KIM (HINCHCLIFF HOUSE) & KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (ARU).

Clockwise from left: Lana’s dining room; and reﬁned seafood offering; kaya jam and koji waffle at Aru; burrata, artichoke and nettle oil at Hope St Radio; and Hope St Radio’s dining room.

News

ADDITIONAL REPORTING GEORGIE MEREDITH (PHIL WOOD). PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA DIMOU (VALENTINAS), GRACE ELIZABETH (MELROSE) & CHLOE PAUL (PHIL WOOD).

SYDNEY Chef Phil Wood has secured a charming corner terrace in Paddington as the home for his first solo restaurant. While the name of his restaurant is still under wraps, the New Zealandborn chef is ready to take on the culinary stomping ground he knows well after spending eight years at Rockpool and Eleven Bridge. “After being in lockdown last year and not being in restaurants, I realised how much I missed cooking and the sounds of a busy restaurant,” says Wood. “I’m most excited about having that place I can call my own which has those sounds and sights, and memories that are created in it.” Circular Quay’s iconic 19th century wool store, Hinchcliff House, is now home to a series of unique venues, courtesy of acclaimed Kiwi restaurateur Scott Brown (Amano, Good One). Lana, which sits on the first floor is a luxe, pink-hued fine diner with a Mediterranean-leaning menu serving fish-focused dishes; on the entry level there’s Grana, a smart-yet-casual day-to-night eatery with bakery attached; and below it all, Apollonia, a moody Sicilian “drinking den” offering Negronis, digestifs and a long list of spirits. A dedicated dessert bar – Grana Sweet – is due to join them soon. Elsewhere, Marrickville has scored an all-day dining spot, slinging blueberry pies and fried mortadella sandwiches. Valentinas takes cues from the classic American diner, and is the second venture from owners Elise Honeybrook and Scott Clark, who also own Camperdown’s muchloved Grumpy Donuts. Double Bay is continuing to ride the wave of its local dining

resurgence with the arrival of Roxy’s. Head chef Denzer Aseoche will bring his talents from Kepos Street Kitchen to the Middle Eastern-inspired restaurant, serving plates of crisp za’atar-rubbed chicken spare ribs, a four-cheese pita toastie and king prawn studded falafel.

BRISBANE The Sunshine State has scored the talents of Thailand-viaMelbourne import Arté Assavakavinvong (ex-Longrain). He’ll lead the kitchen at Bulimba’s Melrose, a Thai- and Balineseinspired eatery. The rooftop restaurant will be serving up bebek betutu (a confit and flash-fried half duck served with cauliflower and sambal); grilled fish wrapped in banana leaf with sambal matah (a raw Balinesestyle condiment with lemongrass, makrut lime leaves and shallots); and a larb that calls upon rich and fresh yellowfin tuna, in place of the usual ground pork or chicken.

ADELAIDE Jake Kellie is behind a new ﬂame-forward restaurant in Norwood. Drawing on his time working the grills at Singapore’s Burnt Ends and Sydney’s Mimi’s, Arkhé will play with smoke and ﬁre to showcase the best of South Australian produce.

Clockwise from top left: Phil Wood at his new restaurant in Paddington; betel leaves and drinks; and Moreton Bay bug buns at Melrose; the dining area at Valentinas.

News

LIGHT IT UP Adelaide continues to live up to its “festival state” moniker, with the arrival of Illuminate Adelaide. For 17 nights the city will be aglow with light installations and interactive art pieces. The star attraction of the music program will see The Avalanches joined by the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, to celebrate 21 years since the release of their seminal album, Since I Left You. Sky Castle by Eness.

What started out as a passion project for Barrie Seldon quickly turned into a business prospect after winning gold for this heat-driven, pangrattato-like topping at a Western Australian chilli festival. Made from an intensely textural combination of oats, chillies, coconut, onion, sesame and garlic, this ﬁery condiment brings life to the simplest of salads, soups and pastas. Try adding to roast vegetables or fried rice for extra crunch, too. krunchilli.com.au

SOCIAL FEED Melbourne-based charity Free to Feed has found a new home and events space in Fitzroy North. Co-founder Loretta Bolotin launched the project five and a half years ago, after working with refugees and people in asylum, and seeing the potential for hospitality to become a career pathway. “I grew up in a migrant family. Food was the connector and leveller,” says Bolotin. Free to Feed harnesses the talents and celebrates the ambition of newly arrived people through leadership, cooking and storytelling training programs, which then allow them to teach cooking classes and serve professionally catered feasts. With a growing waiting list, the new home is set to continue Free to Feed’s mission on an even larger scale, hosting both public events and internal training programs, with a commercial kitchen, high ceilings, terrazzo floors, a fireplace and plenty of room for long table dinners. freetofeed.org.au

PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH PANNELL (FREE TO FEED).

CRUNCH TIME

July 16 to August 1, illuminateadelaide.com

THE CORNER STORE Glassware creator and homewares curator Maison Balzac has opened a flagship store in Sydney’s Surry Hills. “Opening a store wasn’t on the cards for us until this gorgeous corner space became available. There was no doubt it had to be our first retail venture,” says founder Elise Pioch, who started the brand in 2012. Hoping to recreate a slice of France here in Australia (Pioch was born and raised in Beziers) Pioch appointed colleague Laura Anderson as the artistic director for the project. You can get hands on with the full range of colourful glassware, playful candles and signature scents that have found their way into the homes of Australians over the past nine years. 545a Bourke St, Surry Hills, NSW, maisonbalzac.com

O N T H E PA S S

w i t h C H E E WO N G , OW N E R O F LU LU ’ S C H A R KOAY T E OW

How did you get into cooking? My mother-in-law used to own a hawker stall in Penang, which specialised in char koay teow. When she came on holiday here, she bought her special sauce to do her char koay teow, and that’s when the idea popped into my head to bring her char koay teow to Melbourne. I started selling dishes online, and then in June 2019 I had a pop-up in the Hawker Hall. Eventually I found my own shop in Hardware Lane in May 2020.

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVE WHEELER (MAISON BALZAC).

Can you tell us more about your signature dish? It’s a street food dish that’s very popular in Malaysia. The Penang char koay teow is a bit different from the other states in Malaysia – this one is more on the savoury side, a little bit lighter in colour. Char koay teow is defined by its smoky wok hei. How do you achieve this? We use a high-pressure wok burner. Then it’s really the skill of the chef and the technique that enhances that wok flavour. We do that by doing every dish individually, we never do three or four at once. It takes a lot of training and discussion about how we keep our food consistent. Now, 60 per cent of our customers return, which is a sign we’re doing this well. You have a tight signature menu that includes a white curry mee. Tell us about that. It’s a different kind of curry laksa from Penang. In other parts of Malaysia they mix the chilli in together with the coconut soup base, but our Penang style is different. The chilli is separate from the soup, so you can taste the original soup broth, and then you stir the chilli in, so you get two different tastes in the one curry laksa. And what’s next for you and Lulu’s? My plan is to expand the business to Sydney. At the moment I’m looking for an additional shop in the Melbourne suburbs, so more people can try Lulu’s. 27-31 Hardware Ln, Melbourne, Vic. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from left: one of the bedrooms inside The Residence; the outdoor fireplace; the exterior of Berrima Vault House.

XURY

ACC OM

Built by convicts in 1844, the fireplace at the Berrima Vault House has been warming visitors for nearly two centuries. But to enjoy the fireside comfort of the former Taylor’s Crown Inn, you’ll need to become a card-carrying member of the newly opened private club. The fireplace – believed to be the largest original fireplace in the Southern Highlands – is at the heart of the members’ lounge, designed as a creative space for members to come together to work and play. Elsewhere, members have access to a series of private dining rooms housed in old jail cells, as well as a bijou cocktail bar – named after resident ghosts Hank and Molly. Outside, The Vinery is (ironically) home to a craft beer garden, while the Rose Garden allows members to enjoy the bracing Southern Highlands air, while staying warm next to a roaring outdoor fireplace. Upstairs, a three-bedroom private residence is available for the public to hire, with guests able to access member facilities for the duration of their stay. Alternatively, the public can experience a taste of the Vault House via Taylor’s Inn Café, where executive chef Tommy Prosser serves up a menu of comforting pub classics that champion local produce. Prosser, who worked at Michel Roux’s Waterside Inn before moving to Australia, combines classic French technique with nostalgic British flavours, in a nod to the country house charm of the property. Founder Si Philby brought in a team of local and global creatives to bring the project to life, including the former global creative director of Soho House, Dan Flower. “One of the silver linings to come out of the global pandemic is people have realised they don’t need to live in the city,” explains Philby. “They’re also a bit tired of working from home so are looking for somewhere they can hold business meetings, take business calls, have great WiFi with high-level data security, print, scan, whatever they need to work… but they also want to relax and socialise.” Memberships start from $2400 per year, or you can rent the three-bedroom residence from $1200 per night (minimum twonight stay). berrimavaulthouse.com

ADDITIONAL REPORTING JOANNA HUNKIN (BERRIMA VAULT HOUSE). PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (CHAMPAGNE) & ABBIE MELLE (BERRIMA VAULT HOUSE).

O DATI

ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY CLUB

PUTTING ON THE FIZZ There’s plenty to celebrate in the world of Champagne, with three of the region’s leading maisons releasing new vintages. Dom Pérignon has unveiled two new additions to the family, including the Vintage 2012 and the extra-special Vintage 2003 – Plénitude 2. The Plénitude 2 is the result of a rare heat wave in the region, which brought about its hottest summer in more than 50 years and led to the earliest harvest since 1822. The vintage is characterised by a ﬂoral bouquet and notes of candied fruit, which give way to pepper, spice and liquorice root. Meanwhile, Bollinger has launched the R.D. 2007, just months after it was disgorged in July 2020. R.D. stands for recently disgorged and is unique to Bollinger, designed to capture the wine at its optimal maturity. The 2007 vintage makes an especially good partner to food, and pairs particularly well with saffron. And ﬁnally Moët & Chandon has launched its Grand Vintage 2013, becoming the house’s 75th grand vintage release. A sister Grand Vintage Rosé has also been released, which will make for delightful summer drinking.

THREE TO TRY

BARBECUE BUTCHERS

News

Low n Slow Meat Co. This newly opened destination for Brisbanebased American-style barbecue enthusiasts is situated within Brisbane’s new Rivermakers precinct. Half the site is a butcher and the other half is packed with barbecue accoutrements, with gear ranging from technical (think charcoal, hunks of fruit wood and knives) to tasty (with stacks of sauces, glazes, rubs and seasoning). 82 Colmslie Rd, Morningside, Qld.

Australian Meat Emporium This grand meat market is home to Sydney’s largest walk-in cool room, where you can grab a jacket and browse through rows of quality cuts. 29-31 O’Riordan St, Alexandria, NSW

Victoria Quality Butcher Specialising in meat primed for Korean-style barbecue, this Melbourne butcher stocks both pre-cut and marinated meats alongside classic ﬁllet and bone-in cuts. Shop densely marbled wagyu, smoked pork belly and rolled slices for hotpot too. 654 Elizabeth St, Melbourne, Vic.

ORANGE EXPEDITION MAKE IT SNAPPY Fujifilm has released its latest polaroid camera, the Instax Mini 40, upping the ante with a setting that suits both self-portraits and close-up food shots. With automatic exposure and instant printing, this camera will capture memories to last with the click of a button. $169, instax.com.au

The quintessential country bonfire is both a meeting point and a celebration, and now the fiery gathering will serve as inspiration for the Orange Winter Fire Festival. The Central Tablelands town will be getting lit with special char-grilled feasts, campfire cook outs and red wine tastings. Event highlights include a fireside picnic feast at winery Swinging Bridge; pizza by the grapevines at Rowlee with a pop-up by Arancia Wood Fired Pizza; the Millthorpe Night Markets will see producers and wineries share their wares under the stars; and Philip Shaw Wines will host Orazio D’Elia of Matteo Restaurant for a one-off four-course Italian feast. Explore the full program and plan your Orange getaway before tickets sell out. August 6-8, orange360.com.au G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

A Glass Of is a new wine delivery service that invites leading sommeliers to curate five different 200ml pouches of wine by independent winemakers. The sustainable pouches preserve the quality of the wine and allow drinkers to explore different wine varietals and up-and-coming Australian makers, one glass at a time. $45 for five pouches, aglassof.com

If you’ve ever wanted a five-star spa experience without having to check into a hotel, Sydney’s Fenn in Paddington is your new high-end skincare destination. The facialists rejuvenate your skin with high performance technologies and bespoke treatments, all performed in minimalist-yet-luxurious surrounds. fennstore.com

N E V E R S AY N E V E R Never Never Distilling Co. has just launched a botanical cocktail onion. Each pearl onion is imbued with the same aromatics used in Never Never’s signature gin, making it the perfect cocktail or cheeseboard garnish. neverneverdistilling.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Here’s our quick-fire guide to some of the most popular terms and techniques when it comes to cooking with fire. Parrilla This is the catch-all name for the type of grill traditionally found throughout Central and South America. It is essentially a metal grate suspended above a firebox. Hibachi Meaning “fire bowl”, the hibachi is a traditional Japanese charcoal brazier. Ami-yaki is the Japanese method of barbecuing on open mesh, which allows the fats and juices to drip onto the hot coals, imparting food with a smoked flavour. Josper Rather than a specific method of cooking, Josper is a respected brand of charcoal ovens. Founded in 1969 by Pere Juli and Josep Armangué in Barcelona, it has become a leader in charcoal gastronomy, with a number of notable chefs installing the company’s rotisseries, Basque grills and charcoal ovens in their restaurant kitchens. Hāngi This is a traditional Māori method of steaming food in a pit oven, dug into the ground. Rocks are heated by fire and food placed on top, before being covered with earth for several hours.

PHOTOGRAPHY BRIDGETTE CLARK (HILLCREST).

POUR TO DOOR

GRILL GLOSSARY

News

T H E L AT E ST B O U T I Q U E A N D LU X U RY H OT E L S

HOTEL NEWS

NEW SOUTH WALES The Sapphire Coast has welcomed the second coming of Hillcrest Merimbula. The bones of the lush accommodation were originally built in 1969 as a local motel, and now the entire property has undergone a chic and modern refurbishment. The elevated property, set across nearly two acres of land, has been rejuvenated with a new pool, native garden and tennis court, while the rooms feature specially commissioned artworks and fresh timber finishes. Similarly up the coast in Northern NSW, The Surf Yamba has become the first boutique hotel in the area. Located across from Yamba’s main beach, guests will find a rooftop terrace and plunge pool, alongside contemporary rooms.

VICTORIA Melbourne Marriott Hotel Docklands has just opened, complete with a 28-metre inﬁnity pool and rooftop bar. It’s also home to Australia’s ﬁrst M Club (Marriott’s 24/7 members’ lounge), plus a laneway café and day-to-night diner, Archer’s. NEW ZEALAND An Edwardian-era building in Wellington is now home to the chic Naumi Studio Hotel. Following extensive renovations, the centrally located 116-room property has been inspired by bold colours and characters of the literary world, with a grand bar at the centre of the hotel. Its full-service restaurant Lola Rouge is set to open later this year.

Clockwise from top left: the view from Hillcrest Merimbula; Hillcrest’s newly revamped interiors; Melbourne Marriott Docklands; the bar at Naumi Studio Hotel. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Nutty, crunchy and warmly spiced, a good toasted muesli should make you spring out of bed on even the chilliest winter morning. THE MUESLI FOLK Choconola Chocolate in your breakfast may sound intense, but this Tweed-based muesli-maker finds just the right balance. Nibs of cacao give bitter accents, while a touch of salt adds a subtle savouriness. A generous peppering of macadamias, cashews and hazelnuts makes this a solid smoothie bowl topper. $35 for 750gm, themueslifolk.com.au

IRREWARRA

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING SOPHIA YOUNG.

Almond and coconut This golden rubble combines everything you want in a toasted muesli; whole nuts, solid chunks of maple-rolled oats, thick flakes of coconut and sweet pops of dried fruit. Brown rice syrup brings an earthy sweetness to complete the mix. A luxurious way to start the day – and a perfect afternoon snack. $13.30 for 500gm, irrewarra.com.au

SONOMA Spelt maple and almond The packet might look modest, but the contents are something to boast about. Toasted oats are combined with spelt to bring an extra level of nuttiness, amplified by shards of roasted almond. Maple syrup and vanilla combine to bring a subtle sweetness that doesn’t overpower the blend. $14.70 for 500gm, sonoma.com.au

FLOUR AND STONE Toasted muesli Sydney-based bakery Flour and Stone is best known for its pastries, cakes and pies, but its muesli is very much an unsung hero. The house-made mix is a classic blend of rolled oats, seeds and dried fruits, infused with warm notes of cinnamon. It’s a perfect Sunday morning starter. $18 for 750gm, flourandstone.com.au

FRESHNESS FINE FOODS Millet maple and macadamia This sweetly toasted number brings back memories of Sanitarium honey puffs. Organic, puffed brown rice and millet create a playful texture, while whole macadamias bring a buttery mouthfeel. Maple syrup adds another layer of sweetness, making the milk at the bottom of your bowl all the more drinkable. $14 for 300gm, freshnessfinefoods.com

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CA M I L L A FREEMAN-TOPPER As one half of fashion label Camilla and Marc, the designer shares how technology has empowered her, why a trench coat is a travel essential, and where she loves to dine.

I would say one of the most valuable lessons I have learned while travelling is to be organised. Prior to Covid I was travelling for work a lot and I would organise my trips down to the hour – my meetings, museums, restaurants, everything. By being organised and having everything planned has allowed me to be more spontaneous in those in-between moments. You can really be where you are and soak in the moment more instead of worrying or planning. For design inspiration I draw on so many incredible places. In my formative years as a designer, Italy was where I perfected my craft. I won a scholarship to do my master’s in Florence. Design and tailoring was a cornerstone of the master’s, I immersed myself deeply in that culture. More recently I went to Berlin for the first time in 2019 – I was completely enamoured by the design, architecture and art scene. Growing up as a family we used to ski a lot. My father was a ski instructor while he was studying law and it’s a passion of his that I have passed on to my kids. It’s an amazing family holiday – you’re exercising and you feel as free as a bird. After every trip we come back closer as a family. The most inspiring place I’ve ever been to is Ulur u. I connected ¯ of spirituality. with the place deeply and I remember a huge sense And from a visual perspective it’s incredible. Internationally, Paris is very near to my heart. I have all my local places I visit, plus lots of close friends there. Previously I had so much repetitive travel, so I promised myself that unless it’s for work, I’d try to visit a new destination, so I’d love to go to Moscow.

Memories

When I’m getting on an aeroplane, I love wearing a new tracksuit... Then I always wear a trench coat over it for some polish.

I always pack in order of events. So, first outfit on the top and I pack flat. It’s a bit weird and means I need to take an excessive amount of luggage, but it works. Once I’ve worn something, it’s done and I don't need to worry about it. I also have a rail and steamer in my room and I unpack as I go. When I’m getting on an aeroplane, I love wearing a new tracksuit. When you’re about to sit in a chair for hours, that thousands of people have sat in, it’s something for me that makes me feel fresh and clean. Then I always wear a trench coat over it for some polish.

INTERVIEW JORDAN KRETCHMER.

In the past year, I’ve learned we really don’t need to travel as much as we did – especially for work. Technology is ridiculously empowering. I’ve been able to tap into talent internationally beyond my wildest dreams. I recently employed a designer working out of Stockholm and she is incredible. When it comes to restaurants, you can have a beautiful interior, but it’s the menu that is so important to me. I tend to gravitate towards farm-to-table and seasonably led restaurants. Then some of the best restaurants are just a small hole-in-the-wall, and it’s about the energy of the space. I really prefer to go to restaurants where the owners are front-facing or it’s family-owned and run. The service is better. There’s so much pride in the operator standing there, and truly owning the restaurant, welcoming you. You’re always going to get a much better meal. In Sydney, Sean’s Panaroma is a go-to for me. I also love the new Bistrot 916 that’s just opened up [in Potts Point]. One of my favourite restaurants in the whole world is Lucien in NYC. It’s the first place I go to when I land. In Paris it’s a little more bougie. I love Caviar Kaspia. We have hosted many a private dinner there with friends or for work that I’ll never forget. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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EN GARD EN ER

Seasonal secrets

When to plant your crops relies on more than just temperature, writes SIMON RICKARD.

ave you ever had the experience of planting coriander seedlings, only to have them bolt immediately to seed? The problem lies not with the plant itself, but is a common example of user error. We tend to think of seasons in terms of temperature: summer is hot, winter is cold, spring and autumn are mild. But there is more to seasons than merely temperature. Equally as important as the change in temperature over the seasons, is the change in day length. The further south you travel from the equator, the more the day length changes over the course of the year. In Tasmania and the South Island of New Zealand, winter days are noticeably shorter than summer days. The summer and winter solstices mark the longest and shortest days of the year respectively, while the autumn and spring equinoxes mark an inflection point, where the day and night are of equal duration. The closer you get to the equator, the less pronounced this phenomenon becomes. Gardeners in the Top End barely experience any change in day length at all. Plants are even more sensitive to this occurrence than we are, so understanding your local situation, and how different crop plants respond to it, will make you a better gardener.

ILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES.

Grow your own

Simon is a professional gardener, author and baroque bassoonist. @simon_rickard

This brings us back to coriander. Coriander is native to the Mediterranean Basin and Western Asia, where the day length varies considerably between winter and summer. Winters are wet and mild in this climate, and summers are dry and hot. Coriander’s life cycle is programmed accordingly. It germinates in autumn as days begin to shorten, “knowing” that this will give it the longest period of mild, moist weather to grow big and leafy. Coriander grows right through the short days of winter, until it senses the days getting longer again. This tells the coriander that summer is on the way, and it’s time to set seed before heat and drought set in. The coriander flowers in spring, around the spring equinox, and sets its seeds as the days become longer than the nights, drying out and dying around the summer solstice. The mistake we make as gardeners is to go out on the first sunny day of mid-spring to plant our coriander, when coriander’s self-destruct timer is already counting down to summer. There’s nothing we can do to switch it off; it is hardwired into the plant’s genes. The remedy is to plant your coriander as the days start to shorten – in late summer and autumn. You might not feel as enthusiastic about gardening at that time of year, but it will give you the best results from your coriander.

Some plants actually need short days to perform well. Bulb onions are an example. Onions are native to similar latitudes as coriander, in Central Asia. Like coriander, they are programmed to germinate in autumn, grow through winter and then, as the days lengthen, produce their swollen bulbs by midsummer. For this reason, onions grow exceedingly well in Southern Australia and New Zealand, and not very well at all in Darwin, where days never become short. Food plants native to tropical latitudes behave differently again. Tomatoes, from equatorial South America, are happy to fruit at any time of the year, regardless of the day length, as long as they have enough warmth. Ginger, originally from Southeast Asia, is the opposite, languishing in short day conditions even if it’s in a cosy glasshouse. Every plant responds to different cues of temperature, moisture and day length in order to regulate its growth and cropping. If you find yourself repeatedly failing at growing a particular crop plant, it’s worth considering what latitude it originates from, and how its life cycle works. Perhaps a tweak of timing is all that’s needed to bring you success in your own garden. ●

Understanding your local situation, and how different crop plants respond to it, will make you a better gardener.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

OLIVER COSTELLO Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month we meet Oliver Costello, an expert in cultural fire management with a profound commitment to Country.

I first came to know of Oliver Costello and his amazing work through Groundswell Giving. Oli knows that there is right fire, and there is wrong fire. Firesticks is his life’s work; bringing Indigenous knowledge back onto Country to heal our environment and its people. When Oli leads a burn with Firesticks, it’s about culture, connection and community. All are welcome. Knowing that knowledge holders like Oli are leading the way and shaping the national conversation about fire and land management fills me with hope for the future.

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ire is more than just an element to Oliver Costello, it’s a spiritual responsibility. The proud Bundjalung man has always felt deeply connected to his natural surroundings, spending his formative years exploring, hunting and fishing around his local Byron-Lismore area. It wasn’t until later on in life, however, that Costello was drawn to the practice of cultural fire management. “After high school I ended up in the Blue Mountains,” says Costello. “That’s where I learned about these big landscape fires and how they were threatening communities, which was new to me because where I grew up we didn’t have fire like that. There was fire in the broader landscape but we were never threatened by fire,” he says. “I always had these aspirations for sustainability. I did handyman and

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN COMMENS (COSTELLO) & MARK POKORNY (KWONG).

The practice of cultural fire management was thrown into the spotlight after the Black Summer bushfires last year, which burned more than 18.6 million hectares across Australia. “Because of the catastrophic fires, there are all these people asking questions about why it’s going so wrong.” Costello is passionate about educating the public on the benefits of cultural fire management, gardening work, but I was always thinking about including its capacity to reduce the risk and impact sustainability and regeneration.” of bushfires. Costello’s aspirations flourished after his mother “Fire as an element encourages innovation and Jenni married Billy Yalawanga, an Arnhem can inspire deep connections between people and Land Elder with a wealth of cultural knowledge. Country, as it has done in all human cultures since “He and mum really wanted me to help get the people learnt to gather around it to share food, light family back on Country, and I was really inspired by and warmth,” he explains. their vision,” says Costello. “The more cultural fire After Yalawanga passed away management we can have in the in 2007, and his mother in 2009, landscape, the safer and healthier “Fire as an element Costello felt compelled to carry encourages innovation it will be. We need to start to on their vision and commitment better understand the positive and can inspire deep to looking after Country – and negative impacts of other fire connections between regimes, like hazard reduction moving to Sydney to study adult education and community burning. The 2019-20 bushfires people and Country, management. are evidence that agencies are not as it has done in all During his time at university, getting it right and I think human cultures since Costello completed the Centre cultural fire management can for Sustainability Leadership people learnt to gather improve that.” fellowship program, inspiring Moving forward, Costello around it.” him to form Firesticks, an says, there are two key challenges alliance championing the in applying cultural fire conservation and revival of cultural fire practices. management to Country. In Costello’s words, cultural fire management is “Through colonisation there’s been a lot of the practice of people using their own cultural value exclusion of Aboriginal people and their practices, system to apply fire to Country, ultimately making it leading to mismanagement, so it will be a long a safer and healthier place. journey to rebuild these cultural practices and “Different Aboriginal groups have different prevent more damage. The other challenge is the relationships to Country,” says Costello. “There are increasing effects of climate change, so we’ve really seasonal abundances of resources and there are got to learn to adapt with increasing change and certain land management activities that need to be I think cultural land management is our best chance done,” he says. “In terms of fire management, it’s of understanding how to get things right.” ● about burning the right way for Country so you’re protecting species and food resources. It’s about creating mosaics of different fire regimes that are reflective of the values of the landscape, making it a safe and abundant place for plants, animals and people.” G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

N EW SOUT H WALES

T Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne 28

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

he Hilltops region surrounds the township of Young in southern New South Wales, which boasts the unofficial title of “cherry capital of Australia” (although Orange might have something to say about that). But what is undisputed by both winemakers and drinkers alike is the incredible quality of new wave wines coming out of the region. Making up just two per cent of vineyards in New South Wales, the region is proving small but mighty when it comes to wine production, delivering quality over quantity.

A unique climate delivers vibrant, intense wines in the Hilltops region, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.

With a moderate daytime temperature range that is perfect for drawing out the ripening process, the Hilltops region delivers wines that share one common trait, according to Dr Brian Freeman of Freeman Vineyards – “an intensity of flavour”. What makes the region so unique is the mesoclimates across the area as a whole, as well as individual vineyard sites. “We can see a 7 to 8 degree temperature variation from the top of the hill on our site to the bottom, which makes site selection in the area so critical,” explains Dr Freeman.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

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Gundagai Canberra

This diversity of climates has created an opportunity to plant a wide range of exciting grape varieties for Australia. Dr Freeman explains, “the temperature and climate have very similar notes to Italy, making it perfect for these slower ripening Italian varieties like nebbiolo, sangiovese, rondinella and corvina.” But it’s not just the winemakers and growers based in the region that can see the appeal of its fruit; other New South Wales winemakers have awoken to the outstanding quality of Hilltops grapes. Bryan Martin at Ravensworth is using nebbiolo from the region, while Sam Leyshon from Yass winery Mallaluka consistently sources a range of fruit not only from the Freeman vineyards but also from vineyards across New South Wales and interstate. Gundagai-based winemaker Nick Spencer recognises the diversity of the Hilltops climate as a driving force for innovation within New South Wales wine. “It’s one of those regions that can grow just about anything – you name a variety, and it can grow there,” he explains. “It’s the one region in New South Wales that if you want something interesting, that’s where you go.” With the three regions of Canberra District, Hilltops and Gundagai all bordering one another, you might expect a common style or thread that ties them all together. But again, Spencer agrees with Dr Freeman that it comes down to the micro-climates within the regions that define each particular producer. “The big difference I see in Hilltops, the fruit seems to be seen as juicer with more vibrancy and intensity, say, as opposed to Canberra fruit. But it’s so hard to quantify the style as a whole.” ●

The Wiradjuri people are the traditional custodians of the Hilltops region and its main town of Young. They are known as the “people of the three rivers” as their land borders the Macquarie, Lachlan and Murrumbidgee rivers. Their connection to the land spans across most of New South Wales (and has done for more than 60,000 years), making the Wiradjuri nation the largest cultural footprint in New South Wales and second largest in Australia.

2020 Mallaluka x Built to Spill ‘Fight Fire with Fire’ Sauvignon Blanc Pet Nat, $35 Mallaluka winemaker Sam Leyshon teamed up with online wine and vinyl retailer Built to Spill to create this experimental bubbles, made with Freeman Vineyards sauvignon blanc. The result is a mezcalmeets-pineapple skin, savoury style of sparkling. Plus, 20 per cent of profits goes to the Firesticks Alliance and Lord Mayor’s Distress Relief Fund. builttospill.wine 2021 Nick Spencer Hilltops Rosé, $25 When pairing rosé with cooler months, a bit more weight and mouthfeel is required. Throw in some juicy red fruit notes with refreshing acidity to pair with slow-cooked dishes. Winemaker Nick Spencer’s latest release ticks all the boxes thanks to its blend of Hilltops grenache, sangiovese, merlot and graciano. A perfectly delicious, medium-weight rosé. nickspencerwines.com.au 2019 Ravensworth Hilltops Nebbiolo, $42 Bryan Martin, alongside his wife Jocelyn, crafts magical wines in Murrumbateman, with the Hilltops Nebbiolo being one of a selection of wines made from fruit outside the rural town. Darker fruits meet savoury bramble notes with a hint of mocha. ravensworthwines.com.au 2015 Freeman Secco Rondinella Corvina, $40 No “top five wines to try from the Hilltops” is complete without Freeman’s Secco Rondinella Corvina, a blend from the only plantings of these two grape varieties in Australia. The wine is made in an Amarone style – slowly dried for 10 days before fermentation, to produce an intense and complex wine bursting with Morello cherries, mushroom earthiness and soft, lingering tannins. freemanvineyards.com.au 2014 Moppity Escalier Shiraz, $130 This flagship wine from Moppity is the pinnacle of shiraz from the region, like liquid Christmas cake – filled with dark plummy fruits, cinnamon and clove spices and tannins, which slowly unfurl on the palate. Decant this wine for a few hours before a dinner party with friends and watch this wine come to life with braised beef and spiced eggplant. moppity.com.au

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Cocktail hour

For weekly cocktail inspiration, follow us on Instagram @gourmettraveller

HOT TO DDY

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Add 60ml water to a pan, along with three cloves, one cinnamon stick, a grating of nutmeg and one strip of lemon peel. Simmer over low heat. Pour 60ml of brandy into a warmed glass, then top up with hot water and spices. Stir in 2 tsp each of honey and lemon juice, top with nutmeg. Best enjoyed ﬁreside.

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Brandy Hot Toddy

St Agnes XO 15 year old This citrus and stone-fruit forward brandy is the ultimate drop for a Hot Toddy. Aged for 15 years, it’s rounded and balanced with hints of sweet oak. $114 for 700ml stagnesdistillery.com.au

23rd St Not Your Nanna’s Vanilla, apricot and honey are the primary notes here. Two years in a mix of French and American oak give this brandy a rich colour and nuanced ﬂavour. $50 for 700ml 23rdstreetdistillery.com.au

Bass and Flinders Ochre Layers of orange peel and caramel give this Australian, leather-bound bottle depth and length. Touches of clove and cinnamon complement the cocktail perfectly. $230 for 700ml bassandﬂindersdistillery.com

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE.

he Hot Toddy we know today – warm, boozy and punctuated with warming spices – is the byproduct of an Indian drink made from fermented palm sap, known as “tadi” in Hindi. Like many things, the British appropriated the recipe during their colonisation of India in the early 1600s, claiming the tipple as their own. By 1786, tadi was defined as a drink “made of alcoholic liquor with hot water, sugar and spices”. Today, that’s essentially what the Hot Toddy is. Whisky is the most common choice of liquor, however almost anything, from vodka to tequila, can be used. Sweet spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg bring flavours reminiscent of Christmas, while honey, lemon and ginger add a kick of immune-boosting goodness.

FRI 6 AUG MILLTHORPE NIGHT MARKETS SAT 7 AUG BONFIRE EVENTS SUN 8 AUG COSY LUNCHES

6-8 AUG ORANGE NSW

Grill then Chill Take both your flame grilling and your party hosting to the next level with the Escea Outdoor Kitchen. The EK Series wood fire comes equipped with everything you need to achieve a smoky meat lover’s feast - an Ember Generator, 13-point adjustable cooking plates, grills, meat hooks, and optional pizza oven accessory. Best of all, once the flame cooking is done, it all hides underneath a stainless steel drawer. Leaving you with a roaring outdoor fire to relax in front of into the small hours.

Learn more at escea.com/EK-Series

Wood Fired Tomahawk T-Bone

on the Escea Outdoor Fireplace Kitchen Escea’s Outdoor Fireplace Kitchen has all the prowess of a professional cooking appliance, with the intrinsic, rustic charm of an outdoor woodfire. In the early stages of designing the EK Series Outdoor Fireplace Kitchen, Escea enlisted the help of award-winning local chef Greg Piner. With a love for outdoor cooking, Greg was the perfect person to share his cooking expertise, knowledge and experience with Escea’s engineers to advise on all things flame cooking - what heights and levels the grills should be, what fuel types bring out the best flavours and of course, what types of food are best to cook on the EK. To showcase it’s culinary versatility and cooking capacity, Greg set out to create a mouth-watering dish – perfect for the Escea Outdoor Fireplace Kitchen.

Paired with roasted seaweed butter and a pink peppercorn sauce. Remove the Tomahawk T-Bone from the fridge at least an hour before cooking, to bring meat to an even temperature to cook.

Toasted Seaweed Butter 500g butter 12 x nori sheets (roasted) and blended 50g toasted sesame seeds 50g miso paste Juice of one lemon and zest Whip the butter until white, add dry ingredients and lemon juice to finish. Place on glad wrap and roll into rounds. Place in fridge and let set, remove glad wrap, cut into rounds.

Pink Peppercorn Sauce 1 Tbsp each of pink peppercorns & black pepper crushed 50mls beef stock 1 tsp mustard 150ml cream Reduce stock by 1/2, add pink peppercorns, black pepper & mustard to sauce and simmer. Lastly add 150ml cream and reduce further until it becomes a glossy sauce consistency.

Grilled Tomahawk Steak Oil and season well, place on hot lower grill & sear for 2 minutes. Rotate and flip to give grill marks on each side. Move up to middle rack for a further 15 minutes. Finally, move to the top level or remove from grill and let rest on a tray. Add the juice from the tray into the sauce for extra flavour.

REVIEW J U LY

New openings

Chancery Lane, Melbourne

PHOTOGRAPHY TANIA BAHR-VOLLRATH (CHANCERY LANE).

From Canberra to Brisbane, we review four of the country’s most exciting new dining destinations.

Review

Biànca’s bar and dining area. Right: Biànca’s antipasti.

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BIÀNCA Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, Qld biancarestaurant.com.au CHEFS Ben Williamson, Callum Grey & Mario Asero OPENING HOURS Fri-Sun noon-3pm; Daily 5pm-late PRICE GUIDE $$

Biànca fills a big space beautifully, two storeys on the corner of Ada Lane, an VERDICT upscale precinct alongside Say “buona sera” to your The Calile Hotel. Upstairs favourite new night out. is dedicated to private dining, while street level offers a mix of sharp-edged Italo Modernist glamour and soft mood lighting, some communal tables keeping things convivial. Rosy-hued terracotta tiles are used to effect across everything from bar tops to the kitchen pass. Bordering the laneway sits Biànca’s front bar. With arrays of backlit bottles aglow, big windows folded back, it’s easy to imagine idling away subtropical evenings here, with ex-The Gresham barkeep Jack Stacey wielding a shaker. chefs Callum Grey and Mario Asero, Curious about the restaurant’s name? under the guidance of executive chef That’s courtesy of Milan-born Bianca Ben Williamson. Marchi, an integral part of the place and Details matter here. Tomatoes in the partner of Tyron Simon, one of the owners Panzanella contorni, for example, are ripe, (with Frank Li and Ben Williamson), who heirloom varieties, and there are pickles, also have Thai destination Same Same, white anchovies, and good sourdough with its bar, Los; and Japanese eatery croutons. Blue mackerel arrives Hôntô, and wood-fired hotspot Agnes. butterflied, skin blistered from the grill, As with the owners’ other venues, daubed with a bright, herby salmoriglio. drinks play a crucial part of Biànca. If Don’t overlook the $4 flavour bomb from a mammoth list and savvy advice from the fritti section. A simple, crisp-battered group sommelier Rani Parish (ex-Embla, sage leaf anchovy combo, it’s a candidate Melbourne) doesn’t spark instant for snack of the year, neatly sharpened inspiration, then look up. You’re literally by the lemon cheek sitting alongside. surrounded by bottles. These ring the Attentive floor staff are personable, perimeter, a showcase of the graft boosting the good times vibe, but involved in assembling a collection that provenance knowledge is variable. not only yields biodynamic and organic It’s a missed opportunity because this Italian and Aussie-Italian finds, but also produce is the sort you want to shout generously includes French grand and about. When you opt for porchetta it’s premier cru, plus a raft of Champagne. good to know the pigs in question are Biànca may be fresh off its starting heritage breed Ryukyu Berkshire cross blocks, but it already feels like a bona from the Byron Bay hinterland. fide winner. ● BOOKINGS Essential; at least two weeks ahead.

Fortitude Valley, Qld

C I AO B E L L A !

Channelling fast-paced good times, Biànca injects Brisbane’s Ada Lane with a fun dose of la dolce vita, writes FIONA DONNELLY.

PHOTOGRAPHY CIERAN MURPHY.

hree words: focaccia di Recco. A rough translation? It means don’t skip breads at Biànca, a slick new Italian by one of Brisbane’s canniest hospitality crews. Sure, by cutting carbs you could maybe squeeze in an additional brittle-shelled cannolo for dessert, but to do so you’d have to forgo a Ligurian wood-fired specialty. Di Recco is not your average flabby focaccia. Arriving red-hot on a tin tray it combines thin, crisp discs of blistered dough with a sticky filling of melted stracchino cheese. Pre-cut, it’s purposebuilt for piling high with antipasti; ribbons of sharp house-pickled fennel perhaps, or slices of pork and fennel salami, made for Biànca by local outfit, Saison Salumi. Biànca’s menu appears a classic affair at first skim, offering straightish renditions of Italian hits, including half a dozen pasta options. So what boosts Biànca to top slot for your next fun night out? That’s down to the precision delivered by dual head

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Paddington, NSW

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ntil now, vol-au-vents have been the stuff of nightmares for me. Loaded with claggy béchamel sauce studded with tinned tuna and corn, they were a typical mid-week meal growing up – and I’d feign a mystery illness every time. But there’s no need at Porcine. Here, the passé puff-pastry case has been elevated to contemporary heights with delicate chunks of scallop and sweet braised fennel. A decadent Champagne sauce pools underneath, like a moat around a fancy French château. The reincarnated vol-au-vent is just one example of the confident cooking you can expect to find at Paddington’s latest arrival. Brought to you by an all-star cast – Nik Hill (The Old Fitz), Harry Levy (Don Peppino’s) and Matt Fitzgerald (Solotel Group) – the bistro fuses French classics with British pub vibes above a bottle shop by P&V Merchants.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

The casual dining room, complete with roaring fireplace and an eclectic collection of art, feels just as welcoming in the day as it does at night. And while the changing menu may seem slightly intimidating on paper (or chalkboard) – chopped tongue, black pudding, chicken hearts – it’s the exact opposite on the palate. Take the calves’ shin, snail and garlic pie, for example, which is impaled with a hollandaise-filled bone. Once the sauce and rich, meaty filling is mixed together, you quickly realise the snails are there for texture not shock factor. Same goes for a whole roasted flathead, served with its head to the side. When deep-fried, it becomes an incredible fish cracker – not to mention, it’s zero waste. But the real stars of the show are the porky plates. Suffice to say, Porcine is an altar for the humble swine. One artwork reads: Tout est bon dans l’cochon! (Everything is good in the pig!), and it

couldn’t be more true. Hill is breaking down one Berkshire pig carcass a week from Dubbo’s Extraordinary Pork to create all manner of snout-to-trotter delights, such as jambon maison (house ham served with vibrant tarragon mustard), pork cretons (a rustic farmhouse pâté; not for the meek), or very approachable côtes de porc (chops). For a guy whose craft is charcuterie, Hill’s desserts are truly superb. There’s a classic crème brûlée, its nicely bitter, almost burnt sugared top balancing the sweet custard beneath. Escorting it, a warm Madeira-spiked savarin that hits you with a boozy punch. A lighter but no less decadent offering is a buoyant Îles flottantes (floating islands) draped in tart passionfruit pulp. It’s appropriately set in a retro jelly mould and portioned to order as a quarter, half or full serve. Grab a bottle on your way in and don’t be afraid to go the whole hog. ●

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER.

A Paddington bistro goes the whole hog with French classics and pub vibes, writes KARLIE VERKERK.

CK LOO K

Îles Flottantes. Opposite, clockwise from top left: scallop vol-au-vent with fennel and Champagne; Porcine partners (from left), Matt Fitzgerald, Nik Hill and Harry Levy; Porcine’s exterior.

PORCINE 268 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW porcine.com.au CHEF Nik Hill OPENING HOURS Thur-Sat 6pm-11pm; Sun noon-5pm PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Essential; at least a month in advance. VERDICT What may seem intimidating on paper is not on the palate.

CK LO O

CHANCERY LANE 430 Little Collins St, Melbourne, Vic chancerylane.com.au CHEFS Scott Pickett & Rob Kabboord OPENING HOURS Tue & Sat 6pm-late; Wed-Fri noon-late PRICE GUIDE $$$ Melbourne, Vic

BOOKINGS Recommended.

Scott Pickett’s sexy new clubhouse brings old-school, French flavours to the city, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

spic. It’s not often spotted on modern menus in Australia which, after a close encounter with the amber-hued smoked eel jelly at Chancery Lane, is a crying shame. The aspic in question is thrillingly clean-edged, dome-shaped, and encases a soft, gooey quail egg and hot-smoked Skipton eel. It’s served with matchstick fries seasoned with flecks of dried capers and black olives. The blend of textures, flavours and temperatures is masterly. I felt like applauding. The dish also provides a good hint that Scott Pickett’s (Estelle, Longrain, Matilda etc, with more on the way) newest restaurant leans French, not just in terms of particular dishes but in technique and ingredients. It’s not classic – foie gras is served in a toastie, a Red Oak salad is dressed (not entirely successfully) in a mouth-coating pancetta-infused vinaigrette, sensational

Mooloolaba prawns are teamed with a cracking version of Marie Rose sauce made sharper and more alert with the use of gin rather than cognac – but it displays a conscious bias towards old-school French skills and sensibility. The fit-out avoids French cliché. As with many a Pickett joint, the dining room (by design studio Bergman & Co) leans large, dark and masculine. There are leather banquettes and a green marble bar, lamplight reflected on brass, a flash of red from the curtained door and more flash and dazzle from the open kitchen pass where chef de cuisine Rob Kabboord (Merricote, Quay) directs the flow. There’s top-quality seafood in enormous, expensive mixed platters or by the piece (storm clams, served on the shell, dressed with sweet-and-sour aigre-doux and teamed with compressed cucumber and blue scampi roe), excellent house-made charcuterie (duck

ham is a must), meat and fish from the grill and smaller dishes that include milk-soaked lamb brains coated in breadcrumbs and flaked almond and a pretty beetroot and goat’s curd tart. Not everything sticks the landing, something made more noticeable by some of the prices. A duck broth is overloaded with ideas. The wine list of French and Aussie labels is more serviceable than thrilling. But mostly Pickett has gifted the city a sexy new clubhouse with an attractively clandestine edge, meticulously sourced ingredients and hearteningly smart, accurate, well-judged service. You could use Chancery Lane as a place for a blow-out celebration, some oysters or caviar over a bottle of Dom Pérignon or to finish a night with a charming Pedro Ximénez chocolate tart. Me? I’m going back for the aspic. ●

Clockwise from top left: Chancery Lane’s bar and dining room; heirloom tomato consommé; the entrance.

PHOTOGRAPHY TANIA BAHR-VOLLRATH (INTERIOR & DISH) & ALEX SQUADRITO (ENTRANCE).

F R E N C H A L LUR E

VERDICT A solid, alluring French feather in Scott Pickett’s increasingly crowded cap.

Review

CK LOO K

CORELLA 14 Lonsdale St, Braddon, ACT corellabar.com.au CHEF Nemanja Babič OPENING HOURS Wed-Sun noon-late PRICE GUIDE $$

Clockwise from left: Corella’s signature WA marron with macadamia, salmon roe and smoked oil; Corella’s bar.

BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT Native produce meets Oz nostalgia at Canberra’s newest dining spot.

Braddon, ACT

G O N AT I V E A new arrival in Canberra takes flight with a fun-forward blend of native ingredients and Oz nostalgia, writes NADIA BAILEY.

es Heincke and Brady Scholes originally envisioned Corella, recently opened on Braddon’s buzzy Lonsdale Street, as a wine bar. To complement their drinks list, they wanted a tight, snackable menu that centred on native flavours, and tapped chef Nemanja Babič to help develop it. Problem was, when they started messing around in the kitchen, they had too much fun coming up with the goods. So, a pivot: a bigger menu, more generous opening hours, and a new dining spot was born. The look of the room skews Euro chic, all bentwood and terrazzo, arched windows and mood lighting. But look closer. The flowers? Almost exclusively natives. And that cool blue-green hue on the walls? It might suggest the colour of eucalypts, but was actually inspired by an old car Heincke once owned. Which is to say, Corella embodies a very Australian reverence for things that lack pretension.

That ethos can be felt in the food, too. While many diners have come to native ingredients by way of fine dining – through the Nomas, Atticas and Oranas of the world – Corella has taken a different tack, incorporating native produce into a series of unintimidating share plates. Your meal begins with a generous slab of toasted Sonoma sourdough, served with a glossy quenelle of buttermite (that’s cultured butter blended with Vegemite for the uninitiated). Slather it on thick for a very good time. Next you might choose a couple of bites – a lamb rib crusted with native spices, its fattiness cut through by a swipe of yuzu-spiked yoghurt, say, or a couple of meaty king brown mushrooms, chargrilled and steeped in a sweet-salty Davidson’s plum teriyaki. Onto bigger things: a tangle of fresh pasta tossed with Jerusalem artichoke cream and coral mushroom crisps is

somehow both light and rich. A sauce of zingy sunrise lime takes the place of the usual citrus in the duck à l’orange, while its accompanying bunya nut purée offers a sweet, buttery foil. The fries come out hot and salty with a cheffy, native-spice version of Thousand Island dressing, that mysteriously ubiquitous sauce of many a suburban Australian upbringing. The dessert options lean equally nostalgic. The almost floral delicacy of a burnt honey mousse melts into an airy milk sorbet, which in turn drenches and softens a liberal scattering of crisp house-made cocoa pops. The effect is a giddy recreation of the last few bites of a childhood bowl of cereal: sweetly retro, utterly comforting. At the end of the night, the petit four arrives: a housemade dark chocolate freckle, imbued with native river mint and scattered with a familiar rainbow of hundreds-andthousands. It’s not a complicated thing, but it is very, very fun – much like Corella itself. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

THIS

OUR

SEASON OYSTERS

TURNING

ARE

— Ask anyone who knows, and they’ll tell you that oysters taste better in winter. Sure, the cooler temperature keeps them fresh - but it’s not just that. Having spent the summer preoccupied with spawning, the oysters you pull from Tasmania’s icy winter waters will be firmer, brighter and taste fresher.

If that’s at all possible. Like kissing a mermaid, they reckon. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that the wine stays chilled longer too. This Off Season, come try Tasmania’s winter produce for yourself. → Visit discovertasmania.com/off-season

FAST J U LY

Create simple, flavourful meals in less than 30 minutes with these everyday recipes.

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN FREE

DAIRY FREE

Photography JOHN PAUL URIZAR Styling STEVE PEARCE Food preparation JESSICA BROOK

Speedy carrot dhal SERVES 4

2 bunches (approx. 300gm) baby heirloom carrots, trimmed, scrubbed 1 brown onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tbsp grated ginger 800 gm canned brown lentils, drained 400 gm canned crushed tomato 270 ml coconut cream 4 store-bought roti Fried curry leaves or coriander sprigs, to serve TARKA 80 ml (1/3 cup) ghee or vegetable oil 4 sprigs curry leaves 4 whole dried chillies, torn 2 tbsp store-bought dukkah

1 To make tarka, heat 60ml (¼ cup) ghee in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add curry leaves and cook until crisp (30 seconds; be careful as hot oil may spit). Remove leaves and set aside. Add chillies, dukkah and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally until fragrant (1-2 minutes). Remove from heat, return curry leaves to pan and set aside. 2 Coarsely grate 4 orange carrots. Add 1 tbsp of tarka to a large, heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger and grated carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened (4 minutes). Add lentils, tomato, half the coconut cream and 1/2 cup water. Bring

to a simmer, reduce heat to low and cook until reduced slightly (8 minutes). 3 Meanwhile, heat remaining ghee in a large, heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add remaining carrots, season with salt and pepper and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and tender (6 minutes). Set aside. 4 Heat a chargrill pan over high heat and cook roti until slightly charred on each side (2 minutes). 5 Serve dhal drizzled with coconut cream and topped with carrots, tarka and coriander, with roti on the side.

TEMPERING TIP Tarka or tadka is an Indian cooking technique of tempering spices and aromats in oil or fat to release their flavours before being added to a recipe.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

SWAP IT OUT You could use any seafood in this pasta, such as prawns or mussels. If using fish, cut the fillets into 2cm pieces.

Squid and fennel pasta with chilli crumbs SERVES 4

60 2 2 1 40 400 4

ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil small fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced tsp brown sugar lemon, juiced gm butter, chopped gm dried fettuccini medium squid tubes (about 600gm), cleaned, thinly sliced widthwise 2 cups wild rocket leaves ¼ cup tarragon leaves, picked CHILLI CRUMBS

35 gm (½ cup) panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp chilli oil 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

1 Heat half the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add fennel, season with salt and cook, turning occasionally, until tender and starting to colour (6-8 minutes). Add sugar, half the lemon juice, and butter; cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and caramelised (3-4 minutes). 2 Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Cook fettuccini until al dente (8-10 minutes). Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking water.

3 Forchilli crumbs, combine breadcrumbs and oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat; stir until crisp (2 minutes). Add lemon zest, season to taste and set aside. 4 Wipe out pan and return to high heat. Toss squid in remaining oil. Add squid and cook until slightly golden and just cooked through (3 minutes). 5 Add cooked pasta to fennel with reserved water and lemon juice; toss to coat. Serve topped with squid, rocket, tarragon and chilli crumbs. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

SWAP IT OUT If chestnuts are unavailable, you can substitute thinly sliced Swiss brown mushrooms.

Charred cabbage with chestnuts and prawns SERVES 4

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 savoy cabbage (about 600gm), cut into wedges 1 cup each dry white wine and vegetable stock 80 gm butter, chopped 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 24 banana prawns, peeled, finely chopped 1 tsp caraway seeds 240 gm canned chestnuts, sliced (see note) ½ cup thickened cream, warmed 1 tbsp finely chopped chives, to serve 44

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Heat half the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over high heat. Cook cabbage cut-side down, turning, or until charred (4-6 minutes). Transfer to a large roasting pan. 2 Pour wine and stock over cabbage and dot with half the butter. Roast until tender, turning halfway (20 minutes). 3 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over high heat. Add garlic and cook until just golden and fragrant (30 seconds). Add remaining butter and cook until starting to foam (1 minute). Add prawn

meat, caraway seeds and chestnuts, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until prawns are just cooked through (4-6 minutes). Add cream and cook until combined (1 minute). 4 Serve cabbage wedges with prawn and chestnut mix, and topped with chives. Note Canned chestnuts are available from select supermarkets.

Fiery baked meatballs with black beans and chipotle SERVES 4

85 2 1 400 400 2 400 2 100 2

gm (½ cup) instant polenta small red onions egg gm each beef and veal mince gm canned black beans, rinsed, drained chipotle chillies in adobo, finely chopped, plus 2 tbsp sauce gm canned cherry tomatoes tsp each cocoa powder, smoked paprika and brown sugar gm burrata, torn poblano peppers (see note) Juice of 1 lime Micro coriander leaves, to serve

ON THE SIDE You can serve these Mexican-style meatballs with toasted tortillas or steamed rice.

1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Combine polenta and 1 cup boiling water in a medium bowl; cover and set aside for 4 minutes. Coarsely grate 1 onion, then add to polenta with egg and mince; season and mix to combine. Roll 1/4 cupfuls into balls and place in a large roasting dish. 2 Combine black beans, chillies and sauce, tomatoes, cocoa powder, paprika, sugar and 125ml (½ cup) water in a large bowl; season then pour over meatballs. Cover with foil and roast until meatballs are golden (25 minutes). 3 Remove foil, turn meatballs then top with burrata. Turn grill to high and cook until cheese is golden (5 minutes). 4 Meanwhile, preheat a chargrill pan over high heat. Cook peppers, turning occasionally, until skin is blistered. Place in a bowl and cover to create steam (3 minutes). Once cooled slightly, peel off skin, remove seeds and coarsely chop. Thinly slice remaining onion and place in a bowl with peppers and lime juice; season to taste and stir to combine. Serve meatballs topped with coriander and onion mix on the side. Note Poblano peppers are available from select greengrocers. If unavailable, substitute jalapeños. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Charred lamb skewers with smoky eggplant and date yoghurt SERVES 4

800 2 4 60 1 6 1 140 130 200

gm lamb rump, cut into 2cm pieces tsp smoked paprika garlic cloves, crushed ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil lemon, zested, juiced, plus extra lemon wedges to serve fresh medjool dates, pitted, quartered long dried red chilli, thinly sliced gm (½ cup) unsweetened coconut yoghurt gm (½ cup) store-bought baba ghanoush gm mixed salad leaves, to serve

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Preheat a lightly greased chargrill or barbecue to high. Combine lamb, paprika, garlic, 2 tbsp oil, lemon zest and juice in a bowl and season to taste. Thread lamb onto 12 metal skewers, and grill, turning and brushing with marinade occasionally, until charred and cooked through (6-8 minutes). 2 Heat remaining oil in a heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add dates and cook, turning occasionally, until starting to blister (1 minute). Add chilli and cook until crisp (30 seconds). 3 Combine yoghurt and baba ghanoush in a small bowl; season to taste. Serve lamb skewers with baba ghanoush, blistered dates and salad leaves.

PREPARE AHEAD For maximum flavour, marinate the lamb overnight and bring it to room temperature before cooking.

Cumberland sausage tart with burnt onion marmalade SERVES 4

1 sheet frozen butter puff pastry, thawed 1 (500gm) Cumberland sausage round ONION MARMALADE 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 brown onions, thinly sliced into rounds 125 ml (½ cup) orange juice 1 tbsp honey 60 ml (¼ cup) white wine vinegar 1 tsp finely grated orange rind 100 gm mixed leaves, to serve 2 tbsp roasted hazelnuts, chopped 1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Cut pastry into a circle 2cm larger than the sausage. Transfer to a baking tray lined with baking paper. Prick pastry with a fork, then place sausage coil in the centre. Bake until sausage is cooked and pastry is golden (20 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, to make onion marmalade, heat oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and starting to colour (6-8 minutes). Increase heat to high and cook, stirring, until onions begin to char. Add orange juice, honey and vinegar and cook until reduced (2 minutes). Add orange rind, season well and remove from heat. 3 Serve tart topped with onion marmalade, leaves and hazelnuts. ➤

MIX IT UP If you can’t find round Cumberland sausages, make the tarts square and line up 3-4 sausages on each tart.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Burnt toast and mushroom soup SERVES 4

COOKING TIP Don’t be afraid to grill your bread until it is well charred – this will add more ﬂavour and depth to the soup.

2 6 50 1 500 10 500 750 1 150

tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing slices sourdough (approx. 250gm) gm unsalted butter, chopped leek, white part only, thinly sliced gm mixed mushrooms, thinly sliced (reserving 4 whole, to serve) gm dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 250ml boiling water for 10 minutes ml (2 cups) milk ml (3 cups) vegetable stock tbsp Dijon mustard, plus extra to spread gm grated Swiss cheese Micro red vein sorrel, to serve

1 Preheat a chargrill pan over high heat. Brush bread with oil and grill until well charred (2-3 minutes). Roughly chop 2 slices of bread.

We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and fresh seafood from Fishtales in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.

2 Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add leek and mixed mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden (10 minutes). Remove whole mushrooms; set aside. Add chopped bread and stir to coat. 3 Add porcini mushrooms and liquid, milk, stock and mustard; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook until bread is soft (10 minutes). Season to taste and puree in a blender, or with a hand-held blender, until smooth. Return to a clean saucepan and keep warm. 4 Preheat grill to high. Spread remaining bread with mustard and sprinkle with cheese. Place under grill and cook until melted and bubbling (2 minutes). Serve soup topped with mushrooms and juices, and sorrel, with toasts on the side.

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Just 2

Add deep, earthy flavours to your cooking with smoky delights sure to become pantry staples.

ADD

ANCHOVIES (1) Nardin Smoked Anchovies A decadent addition to marinades. Try drizzling the left over oil over salad leaves. $18.50 for 100gm, gourmetlife.com.au

PEPPER FLAKES (2) Las Hermanas Sweet Smoked Pepper Flakes Dried over oakwood, these can be added to almost any savoury dish for a fiery touch. $7 for 24gm, twoprovidores.com.au

SMOKE WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE (3) Mr Pye’s Smoked Garlic and Plum Brush over red meat and fire on the grill for deep, umami flavour and a garlicky kick. $12.95 for 150ml, essentialingredient.com.au

CHILLI SAUCE (4) Old Bones Chilli Co Bring fire to dips with this blend of habanero, long red chillies and smoked garlic. $13 for 200ml, twoprovidores.com.au

OLIVE OIL (5, 11) Castillo de Canena Infuse your cooking with intense, woody flavours by using a smoked olive oil, like this Spanish variety. $39 for 250ml, gourmetlife.com.au

Mount Zero Smoked Extra Virgin Olive Oil Hummus or babaganoush would benefit from a splash of this earthy, Australian produced drop. $17.50 for 330ml, mountzeroolives.com

Slug 9

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

TEA (6) T Totaler Smoky Black

CHOCOLATE (8) Hey Tiger Hello Officer

PAPRIKA (10) La Dalia

Tea boosts flavours in ingredients that require soaking, this one amplifying earthy notes and whisky. $19 for 70gm, ttotalertea.com

Shave or curl this whisky and smoke vegan dark chocolate over desserts for extra oomph. $6.75 for 75gm, maloneysgrocer.com.au

Stone ground after being smoked for 15 days, this fragrant powder brings depth to stews and marinades. $13.70 for 175gm, essentialingredient.com.au

COCOA (7) T Totaler Smoky Hot Chocolate

SOY SAUCE (9) The Good Grub Hub

NUTS (12) Griffin Jerky Beer Nuts and Smoked Almonds

WHITE PEPPER (14) The Essential Ingredient

This smoky, salty mix is roasted fresh per batch and is ideal for boosting crunch in salads or soups. $6.95 for 70gm, griffinjerky.com.au

These carefully smoked peppercorns bring rounded, woody notes and a unique dimension when used. $21.95 for 70gm, essentialingredient.com.au ●

Assam tea makes this cocoa powder rich and herbaceous. Add to oat or coconut milk for a next-level hot chocolate. $7 for tube, ttotalertea.com

Smoked soy sauce works as a unique dipping sauce, or as an interesting addition to noodles and stir fries. $51.95 for 500ml, twoprovidores.com.au

SALT (13) Olsson’s Red Gum Smoked Salt Smoked for 72-hours over native red gum, these flakes are a pantry staple. Sprinkle over anything and everything. $19 for 90gm, olssons.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Anatomy of a dish

Cuban sandwich The Cubano is more than just another ham and cheese sandwich.

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING STEVE PEARCE. FOOD PREP JESSICA BROOK.

therwise known as the Cubano, the Cuban sandwich is an icon of Cuban culture in America. The layered feast is said to have been born in the late 1800s as a quick and affordable meal for cigar factory workers in Florida’s Tampa and Key West. As both the cigar industry and Cuban immigration boomed throughout Florida, particularly in Miami, so did the popularity of the Cubano. While the ingredients remain straightforward, there are a few regional variations, including Tampa’s addition of salami. Danielle Alvarez, head chef at Fred’s in Sydney and Miami born-and-raised, believes keeping it simple is key. “There are a lot of things that could add to or change this sandwich, but in my opinion, a super-classic Cuban is the best version!”

THE BREAD You’ll be hard pressed to find good Cuban bread in Australia, so we suggest using ciabatta, soft white rolls or anything with a slightly thinner crust. Buttered on either side, with a layer of zesty yellow mustard in the middle, it’s then grilled in a sandwich press to a crunchy, golden crust.

THE MEAT There are two layers of meat here: pork and ham. Alvarez prefers sliced slow-roasted pork rather than pulled. “I like using pork shoulder or neck marinated in mojo and slow roasted until tender, but then cooled and sliced.” Multiple sheets of ham are essential for extra texture.

THE EXTRAS Slices of Swiss cheese and shaved dill pickles complete this delicious picture. Cheese brings a nutty flavour and oozy texture once melted, while the pickles add a tangy crunch.

Find one

Nico’s Sandwich Deli in Melbourne offers a dialled up version with smoked pork belly from Dexter. If you’re in Sydney, head to The Lobo for a pulled pork Cuban with triple-smoked ham.

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Basque cheesecake Chef MAT LINDSAY from Sydney’s Ester shares his recipe for this burnt beauty.

Masterclass

ailing from the north of Spain, Basque cheesecake is the perfectly imperfect dessert with the now-iconic burnt exterior. Credited to chef Santiago Rivera, his creamy creation first wowed in 1990. A smokiness that offsets the sweetness, no crust and a pillowy centre hiding just beneath the scorched top is the result of a simple combination of ingredients. Where Ester’s Mat Lindsay uses the flames of his woodfired oven to bake his blackened version, you can recreate it at home by baking at a high temperature.

Temperature matters Bring ingredients to room temperature before mixing for a silky texture without incorporating air. The first high-temperature cooking stage will develop a deeply caramelised top, while the lower one is to cook the cake until it has just a slight wobble in the centre, or reaches 68°C on a digital thermometer. If chilled after cooking, bring to room temperature before eating.

WORDS GRACE MACKENZIE. RECIPE MAT LINDSAY. PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING AMANDA CHEBATTE & SOPHIA YOUNG.

2 Step by step

Preheat oven to 240°C fan-forced. Line base and side of a 22cm springform tin with two pieces of baking paper, extending paper 5cm above the rim of the tin (see note, right).

Beat 1kg room temperature cream cheese in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until smooth. Gradually beat in 500ml pouring cream until just combined, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add 270gm caster sugar and 1 tsp fine salt; beat for 2 minutes. Add 20gm each

sifted plain flour and cornflour, and 2 egg yolks; beat until incorporated. Add 5 room temperature whole eggs (60gm each), one at a time, beating after each addition, until just combined (3 minutes).

Sieve mixture into prepared tin and level. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven until top is deeply caramelised (40-45 minutes). Reduce temperature to 150°C and bake until cheesecake is cooked but has a slight wobble in the centre (15 minutes). Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely before slicing. ●

How to: line the tin Tear off two 30cm x 45cm lengths of baking paper. Place one sheet over the tin, then place the second sheet across the first. Press paper down firmly to cover the base and sides of the tin, then fold the overhanging paper slightly over the rim. The creases in the paper will add character to the sides of the cooked cheesecake, while the excess paper on top will prevent the cake from overcooking. To serve, ease the baking paper away from the sides of the cheesecake and cut with a hot dry knife, wiping between cuts.

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BOOM

TOWN Melbourne is all fired up with a postlockdown optimism that’s ushering in a boom of new restaurants, bars and hotels, as MICHAEL HARDEN discovers.

elbourne may be a little punch-drunk post-lockdown number four, but there’s plenty of life in the city yet. In fact, despite the many obvious signs that Things Have Changed, it’s not stretching the truth to say the city is also experiencing a boom of sorts, given the number of restaurants, bars and hotels that have opened in recent months. There are more on the way too. While some of them were planned pre-pandemic, many others followed it. The best thing? It’s not just the safety of business as usual. Risks are being taken, new ideas are being explored, optimism is present and accounted for. It appears the city enjoys a challenge and it’s fired Melbourne up. “That we’ve been able to get through this last 12 months and actually open is exciting in itself,” says restaurateur Chris Lucas whose mammoth Society in the new 80 Collins complex can seat 300 people over several lavishly kitted-out areas. “But what’s really exciting is that we’ve realised an ambition to make something really special – Society is a statement about Melbourne, about Australian talent and how far we’ve come on the world stage.” If there was ever a time for a local hospo industry cheer squad, this is it and Society doesn’t shy from spruiking Australian greatness. Every part of its impressive acreage, from the high-ceilinged main dining room, plush lounge bar, expansive indoor-outdoor Lillian Terrace (named for Lillian Wightman, the fashion doyenne who owned legendary high-end Collins Street boutique Le Louvre) and a series of private dining spaces, one with a flash dedicated kitchen – has been created by Australian designers utilising Australian materials from timber and stone to fabric and dramatic geometric chandeliers. It’s about Australian talent too. One of the exciting aspects of Society is its embrace of training, mentoring and nurturing Australian talent. Lucas wants to rid us of the cringey idea that overseas experience is the sole way to be properly trained. Chef Martin Benn has been sculpting menus and a team in a fully equipped test kitchen for a couple of years now and there are programs for wine, cocktail and service training for front-of-house staff overseen by Benn’s partner Vicki Wild. When you’re talking 300 people, that’s

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“What we do in Australia is among the best in the world. We are creative, adventurous risk takers not held back by tradition.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BROOK JAMES (NICK & NORA’S), JOHN O’ROURKE & REUBEN GATES (APPELLATION).

a thorough investment, both in Society and in Melbourne’s hospitality network into the future. “What we do in Australia is among the best in the world,” says Lucas. “We are creative, adventurous risk takers not held back by tradition and our cool, young food culture is the envy of the world.” There’s more of that kind of thinking in the rest of the 80 Collins precinct. At Farmer’s Daughters, chef Alejandro Saravia presides over a three-level ode to the produce of Gippsland. From street-level deli, to mid-level restaurant and rooftop bar, the handsomely styled spaces, all repurposed timber and tan leather and eucalypt-green upholstery, Saravia highlights fish, vegetables, meat and booze from the region to great effect. The precinct also embraces quality booze to drink and to buy in the shape of Handpicked Cellar Door – a smart bar and bottle shop slathered in American oak. Handpicked sells wines from their own vineyards in Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania to take away or drink in with cheese and charcuterie. At Nick & Nora’s, a Champagne and cocktail bar from the folks behind Eau de Vie and Boilermaker House, you can get a glass of Ruinart or a bottle of vintage Krug against a backdrop of shimmering 1930s-channelling décor and snacks that lean towards oysters, blini and caviar. There’s more good drinking at Auterra Wine Bar, chef Clinton McIver’s new wine bar across the road from his Armadale restaurant Amaru. The Iva Foschiadesigned space has an emphasis on grower Champagne and the food that loves it, like smoked kangaroo tartare and mini chicken boudin hot dogs. Bijou, a Little Collins Street bar and bottle shop opened by Ben Luzz from Gin Palace, is a dark-hued beauty with a smartly collated list of quality wine and sincerely boozy ➤ Clockwise from above: an upcoming creation from Martin Benn at Society; Farmer’s Daughters; mini chicken boudin hot dogs at Auterra Wine Bar; Nick & Nora’s dining area. Opposite: chandeliers at Society; Society’s moody interiors. PREVIOUS PAGES Nick & Nora’s bar; a lobster roll and martini at Nick & Nora’s.

cocktails while Little Prince Wine is a wine bar and store at St Kilda’s Prince Hotel doing a good Euro-chic line in zinc-topped tables, a 4,000-strong cellar and snacks of the cheese and cured meat kind. The Australian Centre for the Moving Image had an extensive makeover during lockdown that included a superb new restaurant, Hero. Karen Martini is in charge, overseeing a menu of seasonal, modern Euro bistro food – crumbed fish sandwich, vitello tonnato with fried artichokes – and a finely tuned wine list that put most other gallery restaurants in Australia to shame. The inner-north continues to bloom with small owner-operated gems. Vex is a Northcote bistro with a vegetable-forward menu that likes to use meat as a seasoning (ribbons of beetroot deliciously finished with beef fat) and a compact, constantly changing cellar of small producers doing interesting things, often with obscure varieties. Also in Northcote, Gray and Gray, where chef Boris Portnoy has the dial turned to Russia and Georgia with dishes like lamb and pork kupati and sensational multi-layered honey cake, medovik, in a cool timber and tiled room behind the untouched street frontage of a former solicitor’s office. Hemingway’s Wine Room managed to survive the plague, despite being poised to open just as everything slammed shut. The East Melbourne French-accented brasserie is a resilient little number though, pumping out classic-with-a-modern-twist dishes (“elements of coq au vin”) to the backbeat of a mostly French and Australian wine list. Over in Richmond, the restaurant formerly known as

Hanoi Hannah has re-emerged as New Quarter. A new, warm-toned fitout echoes the new approach on the menu that’s playing a modern bistro with Vietnamese influences game, as in beef tartare with pho jelly and bánh mì fingers with whipped pâté, pickled cucumber and chicken skin. Adam D’Sylva (Tonka, Coda) signed on as creative culinary director across all the food and booze offerings at the new hotel W Melbourne in the Collins Arch building (aka “the pants building”). There are five eating and drinking venues in the 294-room, colour-splashed hotel on Flinders Lane, including Lollo, where D’Sylva’s Indian-Italian heritage influences dishes that run the gamut from egg dosas at breakfast to yellowfin tataki with horseradish, duck lasagne and chicken cotoletta later in the day. Boutique and luxury hotels have been sprouting up across the city since late last year. Hilton Melbourne Little Queen Street opened with an art-strewn new building sitting behind the glorious 1931 Equity Chambers building fronting Bourke Street. Luci, the hotel’s Italian-accented flagship diner is housed in the heritage building with a sympathetic, clean-lined fitout by Bates Smart taking full advantage of the natural light, glorious period detailing and high ceilings. The breakfast to nightcap menu leans classic, perhaps pork tortellini with Jerusalem artichokes or a Meredith goat’s milk panna cotta served with candied mandarin. Barflies will want to pay a visit

PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN O’ROURKE & REUBEN GATES (APPELLATION) & PETER TARASIUK (HERO). ADDITIONAL REPORTING JORDAN KRETCHMER.

Despite recent hard times, nothing can quench the flame Melbourne holds for eating and drinking with the best of them.

Clockwise from top: Hero’s dining space; Hero’s chef Karen Martini; char-grilled baby corn with ancho chilli and coffee mayonnaise at Ovolo’s Lona Misa. Opposite, from top: Next Hotel’s bar; a grand staircase leads to the reception area at Next Hotel.

to the moodily lit cocktail bar, The Douglas Club, for mini Parmesan doughnuts, salumi, cheese and several pages of classic-riffing cocktails. Next Hotel located within the 80 Collins Street precinct is putting forward a strong case for making hotel bars great again. In-house barrel-aged spirits are theatrically decanted before your eyes, to then be stirred into a well-made Old Fashioned or Negroni. On the same floor you’ll find La Madonna, where Melbourne chefs Daniel Natoli and Adrian Li are doing snacky things with flair (from clam casino to kingfish crudo) and mains that call upon their respective Sicilian and Hong Kong heritage (be it through a carefully sliced bistecca; or a whole dry-aged roast duck). The sprightly Quincy is a towering new property in the financial end of town. As a nod to the brand’s Singaporean origins, you’ll find rooftop bar The Q on level 29, which has its own take on the Singapore Sling. Back downstairs Salted Egg sees chef Adam Woodfield (ex-Chin Chin) cooking up crab-filled, fried salt bush-topped omelettes in the morning; and smoked eel-stuffed betel leaves and red duck curry by night. Outside of the CBD, Ovolo South Yarra brings retro flair, plenty of colour and compact-yet-clever hotel rooms to the south side. They too have smartly tapped into local talent, and its restaurant Lona Misa has appointed Shannon Martinez and Ian Curley to devise a playful plant- and vegetablefavouring menu, where you can eat a knock-out smoky tostada; a konjac root “prawn” that replicates the texture of the sea-dwelling creature surprisingly well; or josper-grilled mushroom skewers. It’s enough to make your head spin, or at least dance an excited jig that, despite recent hard times, nothing can quench the flame Melbourne holds for eating and drinking with the best of them. Light it up. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Throw another shrimp on the barbie?

F I R E Only if it’s fuelled by charcoal or wood, thanks.

starter ALEXANDRA CARLTON explores how the old-school Aussie gas barbecue has fallen from favour as cooking with fire becomes our new national obsession.

First Nations Australians were the original wood-fire, earth oven and hot-rock cooks.

ILLUSTRATION GETTY.

ake a walk around any urban neighbourhood today and you’ll almost certainly smell it. The charry tang of wood-fire smoke. There’s almost an umami taste to it as it snakes its way from your nostrils to your palate. You can virtually hear the crack of pork skin crisping or the hiss of dripping lamb fat as it flares into the charcoal below. In the last few years, what the world knows as the traditional Aussie barbecue – basically snags burnt over a gas barbie – has slowly given way to a taste for wood-fired cooking: a richer, more authentic way to create food outdoors. Of course in reality, this isn’t anything new. First Nations Australians were the original wood-fire, earth oven and hot-rock cooks. Middle Eastern, Greek, Italian, Croatian, Malay, Indonesian, Turkish, South American and Japanese Australians – and many others

– have been firing up their Cypress and konro and satay grills, their parrillas and their woodfired ovens, since they landed on these shores. But all of a sudden, it would seem, the rest of Australia is taking notice. Nick and Vicky Angelucci have been running their specialist charcoal barbecue store BBQ Aroma, in Sydney’s inner west, since 2010, giving them a bird’s eye view into the evolution of the Australian barbecue. Previously, the couple had been selling hugely popular chargrilled, marinated meat at a local market stall, so they knew people had a taste for charcoal cooking. What they were less sure of is whether people wanted to cook it themselves. “The Greeks and Croatians were doing their Easter lambs but a lot of Australians still thought barbecue was the snags at the entrance ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

of Bunnings,” Vicky explains. Slowly, she says, as people travelled more, they began understanding new tastes. “They’d come back from Texas and freak out about smoked meats and pulled pork,” 2019, is growing at a forecasted rate of 8 per cent she says. “Or they’d come back from Thailand every year, driven largely by millennials who are and want to cook moo ping skewers. I think all demanding more flavour and a shared sense of people have a primal attachment to charcoal community from the food they cook at home. flavour deep down. It might be a DNA thing, One person who found his backyard cooking or a memory. It captures you. You get a craving game reached new heights during lockdown was for it and you come back for it.” Michael Kapetas, a project The rolling Covid manager from Marrickville, in The rolling Covid lockdowns of 2020 seemed Sydney. He had already begun lockdowns of 2020 seemed to light a fire under the building an epic outdoor movement. When we weren’t kitchen in the backyard of the to light a fire under the buggering up our sourdough family home he shares with movement. When we starters, many of us began his wife, jewellery designer weren’t buggering up our experimenting with cooking Marina Antoniou, and their sourdough starters, many two-year-old daughter. outside, perhaps because we craved creating something of us began experimenting. Coming from a Greek family, elemental and honest, or cooking had always been part simply had more time on of his life but Covid gave him our hands, or both. The the time to play around with Angeluccis noticed an uptick in people wanting different techniques in ways he hadn’t before. to cook outdoors. Suddenly everyone was looking “My cooking escalated,” he says. into buying a backyard parrilla or smoker. His outdoor kit includes an almost untouched Hibachi sales in Australia increased 1600 per cent, gas barbecue (“My dad convinced me to get that according to homewares superstore Kogan.com. because he said I’d love the ease of gas. I’ve used And the trend was echoed worldwide. The global it about five times in three and a half years”), charcoal barbecue market, valued at $2.3 billion in a wood-fired oven that he built from a kit with a friend, a Primo smoker that he mostly uses as an open grill, and a hibachi. When he has time

Perfected the parrilla? Suave with the souvla? Sydney-based Wiradjuri chef Jo-Ann Lee, from catering business Goanna Hut, says a traditional hot-rock oven should be your next outdoor cooking challenge. “First Nations people utilise whatever Mother Nature gives us,” says Lee of the hot-rock ovens she builds for large-scale catering events, and she says they’re something anyone can make. She advises people to buy a copper fire pit or camp oven and volcanic rocks, which are available at Bunnings. Get your rocks burning until they glow, then layer marinated meat and veggies – wrapped in greaseproof paper and double-wrapped in foil – on top of the rocks. Top it off with wet hessian bags and cover with 10 to 20 kilos of sand. “Leave it to cook all day and by five in the afternoon you’ll have a feast that’s ready to go,” says Lee. 72

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on his hands he’ll do a pizza or chicken in the oven, or a lamb shoulder that he’ll leave to slow-cook overnight. If he and Marina have had long days at work, they’ll throw a bit of meat or fish and veggies on the smoker grill or hibachi. Kapetas says one of the things he likes most about outdoor cooking is how it has put him in touch with other people who are as passionate as he is. He’s part of a text group with work colleagues where they swap cooking tips and food pics. “Instagram has also been great,” he says of the photos he shares under the handle @yaricooking, adding that it’s helped make him part of a growing charcoal and smoking community, both amateur and professional. But most of all he loves the sense of camaraderie and connection that cooking outside brings to his actual backyard. “Social engagement at home has increased a lot,” he says. “People are always like, when are we coming round? When can we try some food? It’s always such a good vibe, standing around the fire, talking about the methods and the food itself.” If DIY charcoal cooking isn’t an option, there are plenty of restaurants all over Australia that have been cooking over fire and flame for a long time. There’s Sydney’s Firedoor of course, led by the Australian king of fire cooking Lennox Hastie, whose Chef’s Table: BBQ episode fanned the flames of backyard charcoal cooking when it launched on Netflix in September 2020. Also in Sydney, Argentinian-style Porteño is still as packed with diners eating fire-kissed steak and porchetta from its asado grill as it was the day it opened; and it’s –bo–sho in Adelaide, where elbow room only at Sho diners at the bar can watch the kitchen team cook snake beans or lamb ribs over a stainless steel parrilla. More restaurants with a wood-fired cooking focus pop up every day; like Woodcut at Crown Sydney and Van Bone in Tasmania. Not to mention newcomer Charcoal Fish, by fish whisperers Josh and Julie Niland, which will bring rotisseried Aquna Murray cod to Sydney’s Rose Bay. Then there’s Eschalot in Berrima in the New South Wales Southern Highlands, where owners Cass Wallace and Matty Roberts used the Covid

How to cook the perfect steak over charcoal Any backyard barbecue enthusiast will tell you there are a million ways to cook a steak – and their way is the best way. Recently, the reverse sear method – a combination of indirect and direct grilling – is the technique everyone’s talking about. Irene Sharp, who runs online blog and events business Aussie Grill Sisters with her sister Desi, explains exactly how to do it: 1 Start your steak away from the direct heat of the charcoal until the internal temperature reaches 51°C. 2 Give it a quick sear over direct heat for around two minutes, flipping frequently until it reaches 54°C. 3 Rest for 5 to 10 minutes for a medium rare steak.

shutdowns to transform what Wallace calls the “very French” restaurant they bought in 2018 into a fire-cooking extravaganza. “When Covid hit we thought it was all over,” Wallace explains. “We thought, we’re going to lose our business so let’s go out with Matty cooking the food he wants to cook.” Once restrictions loosened, Eschalot started a monthly asado barbecue day, cooking whole pigs or lambs from local suppliers over traditional South American-style a la cruz crosses. It was an instant hit, exactly what Wallace thinks locals were looking for after months of isolation. “People arrive and they’re feasting, they’re swapping tables, they’re talking to each other, they’re listening to local musos,” she says. “It’s this feeling of coming back to your tribe, like we’re getting back to our roots. There’s a primal drive to eat like this. Everyone is drawn to that natural element of fire.” Does the charcoal and wood trend spell the end of the backyard gas barbecue altogether? Stay tuned. One thing’s certain, though. It’ll be a cold day in hell before Australians ever turn their back on the Bunnings snag. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PLAYIN G W IT H

fire Cherry Moon’s Kimmy Gastmeier shares her passion for wood-fired ovens and how it influences her baking, writes TRISTAN LUTZE.

Photography LUISA BRIMBLE

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Cherry Moon’s signature fig-leaf sourdough (inset); sourdough coated in poppy seeds, sesame seeds and caraway. Opposite: cherry pie (inset); spelt puff pastry, almond and seasonal fruit tart. PREVIOUS PAGES Cherry pies with spelt sour cream pastry. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

very morning, cakes, scones, focaccias, cinnamon scrolls and a range of obsession-inducing loaves (including the bakery’s signature fig leaf-adorned sourdough) await purchase at Cherry Moon General Store, still warm from the brick wood-fired oven at the rear of the store. The hearth at the heart of the popular Sydney bakery, tucked away in a back street of Annandale in the city’s inner-west, is the manifestation of owner and head baker Kimmy Gastmeier’s professional and personal journey, along with centuries of wood-fired knowledge spanning cultures and continents. “It’s an Alan Scott oven,” says Gastmeier, referring to the caravansized installation she commissioned for the bakery; previously a De Bortoli wine cellar. “He was a blacksmith from Tasmania who was angry that centuries of wood-fired culture was being forgotten.” Scott, who died in 2009, researched traditional wood-fired ovens around the world, including ancient Roman and African varieties, before devising his own model that maximised heat retention and equalisation. Having been unable to find a property with a suitable existing oven, Gastmeier contacted Brisbane-based Dennis Benson, who had first-hand experience building ovens with Scott, and set about convincing him to build hers. “Dennis was really sceptical about why we wanted this particular oven at first,” Gastmeier says of the semi-retired septuagenarian, as she uses a shovel to shatter a burning ironbark log deep within the oven. “But when we met he could see my dream and my passion, and he really wanted to see that dream flourish.” The foundations of Gastmeier’s dream were forged in Mike McEnearney’s Kitchen by Mike eatery in Rosebery. The pair had first worked together at Rockpool, before McEnearney invited the New Zealand-born chef to come and learn how to craft breads and pastries in the new kitchen’s oven. “That first day, holding the living fermentation in my hands and working with the fire that was my ‘oh my god’ moment. I was addicted,” recalls Gastmeier, who had taped her great-grandmother’s recipe cards on the wall beside the oven. “My time at Kitchen by Mike ➤ gave me the foundation for everything I’ve done since.” ➤

Rye caraway and blackstrap molasses sourdough. Opposite: fig-leaf sourdough; embers in the oven.

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“The oven and I listen to each other. I tell it what I want, and it tells me what it wants. You can see that in the results.”

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Clockwise from left: Cherry Moon’s head baker and owner Kimmy Gastmeier (left) with the morning sourdough bake; sourdough rosemary focaccia. Opposite: sourdough loaves are kept in bannetons overnight in the coolroom before baking to slow down the fermentation and develop flavour.

he construction of Cherry Moon’s own oven – named Apollonia after Prince’s Purple Rain co-star (“Cherry Moon” is another Prince reference) – took Benson three weeks. When he asked for labourers to help him, Gastmeier leapt in. “Because I was going to be baking in it, I felt like it was essential that I understand it on a deeper level. It’s because I formed that connection to the oven during the build that I feel at one with how it functions now.” That connection is critical, says Gastmeier, because Apollonia requires plenty of attention. Mornings start as early as 5am, when the oven’s heavy iron door – procured from a retired gold rush-era scotch oven in Ballarat via Gumtree – is opened and the coals of the previous day’s fire cleared away (into a cavity, where their gentle heat cooks racks of vegetables for the next day’s sandwiches, soups and sausage rolls). Trays of focaccia are scorched first, taking only 5 to 6 minutes in the 340 degrees Celsius ambient heat trapped in the oven’s layers of bricks, concrete and vermiculite. Next, as the temperature gradually begins to drop, the day’s loaves are baked 36 at a time, followed by cinnamon scrolls, tarts and other delicious things. By 8.30am, the baking done, a new fire is lit for the following day’s bake, and at 2pm the door sealed shut again. It’s all part of a routine, for both oven and baker, that is hugely demanding, but offers plenty in return. “The oven and I listen to each other. I tell it what I want, and it tells me what it wants. You can see that in the results.” ●

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A touch of chilli can be wonderful. But a rogue seed can spell disaster, as these chefs and restaurateurs tell GEORGIE MEREDITH.

Cameron Stephens Condimental, NSW I once visited a chilli seed specialist on the Central Coast on a research mission, and boy, he was a total character. It was 10am and he roped us into a tasting session of his super-hot chillies, fresh off the tree; Chocolate Scorpions, Carolina Reapers, etc. “Come on,” he said. “Just bite off the ends, that part of the chilli barely has any spice in it.” He then told us how he had cross-bred a chilli hotter than anything he had ever grown, that had potential to set a new Guinness World Record for the hottest chilli on earth. The problem was, he’d eaten the only chilli on the tree that contained the seeds needed to grow more. He proudly told us how he ran to the kitchen and grabbed a strainer, before barfing into it to pick out the seeds he had ingested, then planting them again to successfully grow the chilli that we had just eaten. We were all hallucinating by the end of the tasting... we drove home feeling extremely squiffy but well-educated.

Instead of a fruity aromatic sweetness, my mouth was filled with the intense heat of a fiery cayenne. I felt like I had flames in my mouth.

Jerry Mai Phò, Nom, Vic

It’s pretty common to get a bit of chilli in the eye in our kitchen, especially when making nahm jim because you have to pound the garlic and the chilli. It happens so often that we keep goggles in the kitchen. We have either welder’s goggles or sunnies. When you pound chilli like that it happens quite a lot and it’s the worst thing ever, because you can see it coming towards you. I’ve had one incident that lasted for about three hours and I had to go into dinner service. The eye that was injured was just weeping and crying. I had a bucket of ice water next to me and I was just continuously having to flush my eye out.

Lennox Hastie Firedoor, NSW

While some like it hot, chillies can often be a game of Russian roulette. I was once cooking for a special guest and tasted one of the Jimmy Nardellos just as we were sending out the main course – only to discover it wasn’t a Jimmy Nardello on the plate. Instead of a fruity aromatic sweetness, my mouth was filled with the intense heat of a fiery cayenne. I felt like I had flames in my mouth. Luckily, the dish didn’t go out to the guest but I couldn’t taste a thing for the next 24 hours! ➤

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DJ Lee

Le Vietnam, WA

M i l l i e Ta n g The Gresham, Qld

Before I worked at The Gresham, I helped open a bar in Brisbane called Deathproof. We had a series of food challenges, one of which was named Fear the Reaper. It was basically all the hottest ingredients you can imagine on a burger. It was a chilli-dusted bun with fried chicken that had Carolina Reapers in the batter and sauce and then chips with chilli salt on them. I never tried it, I only tasted the ingredients and it was like seeing hell. You had to eat the entire thing, the chips and the burger, in two minutes or less and finish with a shot of 42 Below Carolina Reaper vodka, which we made in-house. Not a lot of people were able to finish it. More than 100 people tried but only four were able to keep it down. They had to sign waivers before they did it and we made them wear gloves. One guy sat in the gutter outside the venue washing his face with a bottle of cold milk. We’d discourage people from trying it if they were just starting their night because there was no way they’d be going out afterwards. Sorry not sorry to everyone in Brisbane who had the misfortune of trying it.

A young guy came in one lunchtime with his girlfriend to eat bánh mì. He ordered his usual, the Dragon Breath, and she ordered the Original. He requested I amp up his order with all the chillies and extra sauces. I asked if he was sure, explaining it would give him a good punch and he said, “Hit me.” They sat facing me in the middle of the dine-in area and halfway through his bánh mì I could see him breaking a sweat, with sauce dripping onto his fingers. All of a sudden his face turned red and he started wiping the sweat off his forehead, which got into his eyes. He realised too late that he had hot sauce all over his fingers. He closed his eyes as they started to burn and his girlfriend tried to help with serviettes. I ran to the taps to get some water, splashing it on his face as his girlfriend wiped it dry. By this stage, the queue had stretched out the door because the place was full and everyone was watching to see what had happened. At last, one eye opened, he cooled down and limped outside with the assistance of his girlfriend. Customers in the queue asked if he had been beaten up. About three months later we saw each other and he broke into laughter, then said, “Well, you did warn me. I got knocked out!”

Adam D’Sylva

Lollo, Vic

I was once with my daughter who was about eight years old at the time. We were making burgers and I put about three scuds, which are hotter than birdseye chillies, in my burger. I got the burgers confused when serving, so she went in and grabbed my one and started taking a few bites out of it. She started crying uncontrollably and I was like, “Oh no, she took the wrong one!” I tried to give her cucumber and milk but her mouth was burning for about half an hour. Now she always inspects my food to make sure there’s no chilli in it.

Adam Liston

Shōbōsho, SA

Karena Armstrong Salopian Inn, SA When we first opened Salopian Inn I would run food out to customers. One really hectic day I was chopping chilli and a seed popped straight up off the knife and into my eye. I rubbed my eye with the same hand I’d been cutting the chilli with, which left me with a burning eye that was crying uncontrollably. I took the food to a table who, by pure chance, had just got engaged. The happy couple thought my tears were of joy for pending nuptials, so in true hospitality style I just went with it.

Amy Hamilton Liberté, WA

When I was 16 I was at my friend’s house, whose dad had recently married an Indonesian woman called Risa. In a bid to introduce her to the family, he invited his kids and their friends around for an Indonesian feast. I remember spying a ramekin of soy that had some very finely sliced, tiny chillies floating on top. Risa noticed me eyeballing the sauce and excitedly asked if I wanted to try some. She then mentioned that these little bullet chillies were actually very hot. “Much hotter than the long red ones you get everywhere here.” Always the risk taker, I was like, “Yeah, yeah, step aside.” I smashed my dumpling into the chilli-laden sauce and within seconds I knew I had made a terrible mistake; I had lost all control of my sweat and mucus membranes. I remember so vividly how invasive that heat was in my mouth and how nothing helped. There’s nothing like a tiny, red, inanimate seed pod to remind you just how powerless you are! I was sweating, my vision blurred and I was crying from both my eyes and my nose. If I wasn’t temporarily blinded I would have seen my friends all laughing at me. Strangely, like all good chilli addicts, this did not deter me from eating chillies.

A couple of years ago my team and I were testing recipes for Matty Matheson who was doing some events at Shōbōsho. One of my staff was making his Nashville hot sauce for a spicy fish sandwich. The staff member accidentally doubled the amount of cayenne pepper required, and my team came to me saying the sauce was ridiculously hot. Unaware that the recipe had been incorrectly followed, we were confused as we knew the dish was meant to be spicy. Being somewhat of a hero I prepared the dish to eat myself. After taking a significant bite, I felt my throat tightening and burning. This quickly escalated to my stomach feeling as if I had swallowed boiling water. My eyes became red and even my tears felt as if they were dripping with boiling water. It got to the point that I seriously considered a trip to hospital. After multiple glasses of milk and a stint lying down with a cold towel, the symptoms began to ease. We reluctantly re-tested the recipe and found where we went wrong. Needless to say, cayenne pepper and I now have a cautious relationship. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

What to drink

fireside

comfort Stay cosy and content this winter with our ultimate hibernation guide, designed to pair perfectly with a roaring fire and glass of juicy red.

Listen & watch

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

What to read

T TO

TCH

FIL MS

THE DRY

Amazon Prime Video Eric Bana (pictured, right) will have you transfixed with his magnetic portrayal of a federal police officer haunted by youthful antics and small town gossip. The realism and realities of rural Australia and its tight-knit communities drive the story, while also serving as a sweeping backdrop that’s simultaneously nostalgic and stirring. Dramatic tension builds until the very last moment, making for intense and thrilling viewing.

BABYTEETH

Amazon Prime Video Shannon Murphy’s feature-length directorial debut is both hilarious and heart-breaking, all in the same breath. The coming-of-age dramedy centres on Milla, a terminally ill teenager who falls for a drug-addicted runaway. It may sound bleak but rest assured, Babyteeth makes for charming viewing.

SOUND OF METAL

Amazon Prime Video Riz Ahmed gives a spellbinding performance in this fierce drama directed by Darius Marder, about an American drummer who becomes encumbered by early-onset deafness. The film covers topics of disability, addiction and trauma in an absorbing and heartfelt manner.

WHAT TO LISTEN TO

60 Songs That Explain the ’90s

American music journalist Rob Harvilla explores the biggest hits of the ’90s – and their lasting cultural impact. From Weezer to Whitney Houston, each episode takes an in-depth look at the history of both the song and the artist. Profoundly insightful and entertaining, this is essential listening for anyone who came of age in the ’90s or just loves music.

Shoes Off

For nuanced story-telling about the Asian Australian experience, listen here. Creator Jay Ooi calls on a contact list of comedians, writers, students and academics to deconstruct everything from the “no spice, no rice” discrimination on male dating apps, to the complexities of representation and race in Crazy Rich Asians. Plug it in.

OPERATION VARSITY BLUES

Netflix A story of privilege, exploitation and corruption, this gripping documentary examines the 2019 college admissions bribery scandal. Re-enactments of dialogue taken directly from wiretaps reveal how the mastermind behind the scam, Rick Singer, rigged the nation-wide system and saw celebrities imprisoned.

POD CAST

Sentimental in the City

In this nine-part mini-series, effervescent hosts Dolly Alderton and Caroline O’Donoghue take a lengthy deep dive into each season of Sex and the City, discussing it for “the great American novel it truly is”. Sharp, poignant and wonderfully funny, this near-academic analysis will have you racing to re-watch the entire six seasons from start to finish.

Wine For Normal People Wine can be an intimidating subject for a lot of people. This playful podcast approaches it in a fun and accessible way, demystifying wine and growing listeners’ knowledge. From food and wine pairings that inspire love, to colourful Croatian drops, each episode brings something new to the table.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

B O OKS

Semi-Gloss, Justine Cullen

Rodham, Curtis Sittenfeld

Former Elle Australia editor Justine Cullen reﬂects on her life as a high-ﬂying magazine editor and mother-of-four, through a series of autobiographical essays. Raw, candid and surprisingly funny, Semi-Gloss is about embracing the chaos and realising there is no such thing as having it all.

What if Hillary Clinton had never married Bill? That’s the central premise behind this curious and compelling novel, which blurs fact and ﬁction as it explores a parallel universe where Hillary takes on the world of politics without Bill.

Monk, Yoshihiro Imai

The Vegetarian, Han Kang

This culinary monograph tells the story of chef Yoshihiro Imai’s seasonally-inspired, 14-seater restaurant in Kyoto. Filled with personal reﬂections, recipes and striking photography, Monk captures the thoughtful rituals and philosophy behind his omakase-style menu.

At its surface, this is a story of a young woman who gives up meat. But with every chapter, South Korean writer Han Kang tightens the screws on this rumination on bodies, blood and lust. Unsettling and compelling, The Vegetarian is a masterclass in suspense.

Because of You, Dawn French Comedian Dawn French balances humour with pathos in her most compelling novel to date, Because of You. The story of a desperate mother and a dark secret, Because of You will challenge your sense of right and wrong as it explores a most unusual moral dilemma. Keep the tissues handy as this packs an emotional punch.

A Table for Friends, Skye McAlpine Winter is the season for cosy catch-ups and weekend dinner parties, making this joyful book your bible when hosting friends and family. The recipes in these pages are designed to share, and range from quick dishes to elaborate spreads – there’s osso buco with sage and lemon, conﬁt duck pie and creamy baked leeks with mustard and parmesan.

The Arabesque Table, Reem Kassis This eclectic collection of recipes from Reem Kassis explores the fragrant ﬂavours of the Arab world. Intertwined with stories from home, Kassis showcases 130 nourishing dishes, from rice-stuffed cabbage pie to seafood stew with preserved lemon, apricots and olives.

Nhum, Rotanak Ros Duck and lemongrass soup, taro in ﬁsh broth and caramel beef stew are just a few of the dishes in this ambitious Cambodian cookbook guaranteed to warm you up. Each recipe is laden with herbs and fuelled by spices. The desserts are a treat, too; think coconut cream bananas and sticky rice with custard.

Wine time

2017 Crissante Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmonte

By JENNA PHILLPOTT

2016 Marion, Valpolicella Superiore Corvina Blend Veneto

The Alessandria family have been producing wines since 1958 and when opening this wine, you can’t help but be transported to the rolling hills of Langhe. It’s easy to imagine strolling between the vines, as aromas of fresh truffles, roasted hazelnuts, roses, and wild mint jump out of the glass. $45, justgrapejuice.com

A portion of the grapes used to make this wine are rack dried, creating an intense ﬂavour, loaded with luscious black cherry and charcuterie spice. A fantastically layered wine, this would be ideal with either charred meats or simply a night curled up in front of the ﬁre. $91, acellars.com.au

Sommelier Jenna Phillpott of Melbourne’s newest wine bar, Auterra Wine Bar in Armadale, shares a selection of the best drops to explore in the cooler months. From boutique Victorian producers through to international vignerons, each of these wines will pair perfectly with an open ﬁre.

C OOKBOOKS

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR (BOOKS).

W H AT T

EA OR D

Us Based on best-selling author David Nicholls’ novel by the same name, Us follows the highly dysfunctional Petersen family as they traverse Europe on a family holiday from hell. The splendour of Europe’s most magniﬁcent tourist sites juxtaposes perfectly with the drama of a marriage in crisis and a wayward teenage son in this four-part mini-series. Streaming on Binge.

Fisk

T O W AT T A

If you like your comedy drier than a Marlborough sauvignon blanc, Fisk is the show for you. Kitty Flanagan and a cast of oddball characters will brighten even the coldest winter night with their biting wit and awkward encounters. Flanagan plays the title character Fisk, a suburban lawyer who ﬁnds everyone and everything insufferable. The grumpier she is, the funnier and more absurd Fisk becomes. Streaming on ABC iview.

TEL EVI SI ON Old People’s Home for 4 Year Olds

Industry This British series charts the dizzying lengths young, ﬁrst-year investment banking graduates will go to in order to succeed, in a raw and real way. Backed by excellent performances and a hypnotic soundtrack, it’s youthful in its characters but mature in its execution. Lena Dunham directs a punchy ﬁrst episode that sets the tone for the rest of the series. Streaming on Binge.

2019 Monteraponi Chianti Classico Tuscany As we light open ﬁres and ﬁll our houses with the fragrance of hearty braises, nothing says winter more than an bottle of Chianti. Just outside of Radda village, producer Monteraponi creates radiant wines with hedonistic aromas of sour cheery, sandalwood and tobacco leaf. $65, winedecoded.com.au

High on the Hog Chef and writer Stephen Satterﬁeld explores the history of African-American cuisine and how it has transformed America. Travelling from Africa to Texas, the four-part series will leave you both humbled and hungry as it explores the historical and cultural impact of food. Streaming on Netﬂix.

The delightfully wholesome second instalment of this series is the antithesis to youth-obsessed reality TV, shining a spotlight on curious and unabashedly honest four-year-olds as they form friendships with elderly Australians. It explores the beneﬁts of intergenerational friendships on both the mind and body, while highlighting the very real loneliness epidemic facing our ageing population. Streaming on ABC iview.

2019 Cobaw Ridge Pinot Noir Victoria

2017 McLaren Vale Koomilya Shiraz South Australia

Crafted by Alan and Nelly Cooper in their natural amphitheatre vineyard in the Macedon Ranges, this wine is an honest expression of their cool climate. Savoury notes are delivered to perfectly balance the fruit, with a core of red fruits and an undertone of wild herbs. $60, cobawridge.com.au

With the talented Stephen Pannell as custodian of this site, it’s no surprise this drop is the perfect shiraz. Bold dark fruits entice you, then slowly unravel to show layers of liquorice and mahogany. Powerfully poised with its ﬁrm tannins and silky texture, it’s the ultimate pairing for a big night in. $64.99, danmurphys.com.au

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FOOD J U LY

Turn up the heat

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.

Wood-fired recipes from Brisbane’s Agnes, Tony Tan’s spicy delights, a wild winter feast, and Thalia Ho’s smoky sweets.

Nyonya pork spare ribs

112

Where Photography BENITO MARTIN

there’s Chef BEN WILLIAMSON shares some of his favourite recipes from his wood-fired Brisbane hotspot, Agnes.

smoke

F Harissa chicken, smoked labne and charred lime

ire has always been central to the comings and goings of 22 Agnes Street in Brisbane. As a former brick warehouse, fire forged the clay blocks stored inside. Now, it fuels the kitchen run by chef Ben Williamson, who cooks wholly with fire in the buzzing Fortitude Valley restaurant. Williamson and his business partners were drawn to the old world charm of the industrial site, transforming it into a dark and sultry dining room, with an accompanying rooftop terrace and subterranean wine bar. “We wanted to do justice to [the building’s] natural beauty. And lean into that old, natural way of cooking,” says Williamson, who became adept at playing with fire during his six years at Gerard’s Bistro. Williamson left the wood-fired bistro in 2018 to partner with Frank Li and Tyron Simon on the fire-fuelled project. Along the way, he became the executive chef across the group’s other restaurants, including Same Same, Hôntô and newly opened Biànca (reviewed, p35). But Agnes remains Williamson’s baby and it’s there you’ll find him most nights; smoking, grilling and charring all manner of delectable morsels. “If it makes sense to cook it over fire, we put it on the menu,” he explains. “If it doesn’t make sense to cook it over fire, we won’t do it.” Though much of the menu is Western European in its execution, Williamson says he draws influence from a range of cultures and cuisines. “They make Agnes contemporary, modern Australian, but also a grill restaurant, or a camp fire restaurant.” For this issue, we asked Williamson to share some of Agnes’ fire-kissed recipes that can be recreated at home on a charcoal barbecue or wood-fired grill. “Just go to a hardware store and buy a cheap brazier or barbecue, and start cooking things suspended over a fire or a grill. It doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive, it’s such a versatile way to cook,” he says. “And it’s bloody fun.” 22 Agnes St, Fortitude Valley Queensland, agnesrestaurant.com.au

Harissa chicken, smoked labne and charred lime SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 1 HR 45 MINS (PLUS BRINING, DRYING, COOLING)

“At Agnes, the chicken is suspended above the coal bed in our hearth and cooked over low heat, using pecan or olive wood, for three hours,” says Ben Williamson. “Cooking over coal and using smoking chips is the best way to achieve the smoky flavour.” Begin this recipe a day ahead to brine the chicken and to dry out its skin.

70 1 2 3 1/2 2 4 1 1 1 100

gm brown sugar tsp black peppercorns coriander stalks fresh bay leaves garlic head tsp dried chilli flakes long dried chillies lime, quartered orange, peel only, cut into strips chicken (about 1.6kg), butterflied gm woodchips (see note), such as oak or hickory, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes, drained 125 gm chilled butter, cut into 1cm pieces 2 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste Smoked labne (see recipe, p98), to serve Fried curry leaves and charred lime halves, to serve HARISSA

500 gm very ripe long red chillies, seeds removed 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 4 golden shallots, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp chilli flakes 2 tsp cumin seeds, dry-roasted and ground

1 tsp caraway seeds, dry-roasted and ground 1 cinnamon quill, dry-roasted and ground 2 tbsp Sherry vinegar or to taste 1½ tsp fish sauce 1 To brine chicken, place 2.5 litres water and 90gm salt flakes in a large saucepan with sugar, black peppercorns, coriander, bay leaves, garlic, chilli flakes, dried chillies, lime and orange peel over high heat. Bring to the boil, then remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Transfer brine to a container, submerge chicken and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours. Remove chicken from brine, rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towel. Refrigerate chicken, uncovered for 6 hours to dry out skin. 2 Preheat a wood-fired oven or oven to 220˚C. For harissa, place chillies and 2 tbsp oil in a baking tray, season to taste and toss to combine. Roast, loosely covered with foil, until chillies are softened and slightly caramelised (30 minutes). Remove from oven and leave covered to cool until room temperature. Meanwhile, heat a small

saucepan over medium heat; add shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent (5 minutes). Transfer to a blender with the chillies (add all chilli roasting liquid), spices, vinegar and fish sauce and blend until finely chopped. Season to taste and set aside. Makes about 300gm. 3 To roast chicken, prepare and preheat a wood-fired charcoal barbecue for indirect grilling (see note). Build fire and let it burn until coals are glowing and no longer emitting flames, keep the barbecue chamber at around 140˚C. Scatter half of the woodchips around coals. Place butterflied chicken breastside up on an oven tray that fits inside your barbecue and brush all over with one-quarter of the harissa; season to taste. Place tray in barbecue and close the lid. Roast for 40 minutes then scatter over remaining woodchips. Baste with one-third of the remaining harissa and drizzle over some olive oil. Feed the fire and increase the temperature to 180˚C. Roast until chicken is just cooked and flesh is blackened (25-30 minutes); remove chicken from barbecue and rest for 20 minutes, before carving in half. 4 Meanwhile, for harissa sauce, place remaining harissa in a small saucepan over medium heat. Gradually whisk in butter until combined. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice; season to taste and keep warm until ready to serve. 5 Divide labne between two large plates and spoon over a little harissa sauce. Place halved chicken on top and drizzle with cooking juices from tray. Serve with fried curry leaves, charred lime and remaining sauce on the side. Note To regulate the barbecue temperature, feed the fire with more wood every 20 minutes. Indirect grilling is cooking away from heat. It’s important to have your coal base well established and glowing before adding woodchips. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Charred carrots, smoked labne and mandarin kosho SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 2 HRS 50 MINS (PLUS FERMENTING)

“There are Japanese elements in this dish, but it’s also quite Middle Eastern,” says Williamson. “It’s a mishmash that works harmoniously.” Begin this recipe a day ahead to drain labne.

500 gm natural yoghurt 3 cups woodchips (see note), such as oak or hickory, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes, drained 2 tbsp lemon juice or to taste 6 large carrots (about 1kg) 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Fried buckwheat, to serve MANDARIN KOSHO

250 gm long red chillies, chopped Finely grated zest of 3 mandarins 1 For mandarin kosho, place chillies, 45gm salt flakes and zest in a blender and blend until finely chopped and combined. Transfer to a zip-lock bag, remove air and stand in a consistent, cool place in your kitchen for 1-2 weeks to ferment (see note). When bag puffs, remove air and continue to stand until bag stops filling with air. When this happens it is ready. Transfer

to an airtight container and refrigerate. 2 For labne, combine yoghurt and 2 tsp sea salt flakes in a bowl. Spoon into a sieve lined with muslin over a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until thick and liquid drains (12 hours or overnight). Reserve whey (125ml) and refrigerate labne until required. Place whey in an airtight container and refrigerate (see lamb rib recipe, p101). 3 To smoke labne, prepare and preheat a wood-fired charcoal barbecue for indirect grilling (145˚C; see note). Burn coals until they turn white, then add woodchips around coals to smoke. Transfer labne to a fine metal sieve and place on a rack over smoking woodchips and coals. Smoke at a low temperature until lightly golden (40 minutes). Transfer to a bowl, whisk in lemon juice until smooth, and season

to taste. Set aside until ready to use. 4 If need be, feed your ﬁre with more coals to maintain heat (145˚C). Cook carrots on barbecue, covered with lid, over indirect heat near embers, turning occasionally, until browned (2 hours); carrots should be beginning to blacken and have a slight give but not completely soft. Remove lid, add more coals and cook over direct heat, turning frequently until blackened and well caramelised (8-10 minutes). Allow to cool. 5 Cut carrots into 7cm batons, then toss in a bowl with 2 tbsp mandarin kosho and 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil. 6 Spoon labne onto the base of serving dish, stack carrots on top and scatter over fried buckwheat. Note You can use mandarin kosho straight away, but if you have time to ferment the ﬂavour will improve. Indirect grilling is cooking away from heat. It’s important to have your coal base well established and glowing before adding woodchips.

Blue mackerel with strawberry salsa SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 6 MINS (PLUS CURING, DRYING)

“Cooking fatty ﬁsh like mackerel over ﬁre makes perfect sense, as the fat takes smoke really well,” says Williamson.

4 blue mackerel (350gm each), cleaned, heads removed, butterﬂied and pin-boned 250 gm underripe strawberries, hulled, ﬁnely chopped Olive oil, for drizzling Lemon wedges, for squeezing ALMOND CREAM

175 1½ 1 180

gm whole blanched almonds tbsp sherry vinegar tsp smoked sea salt ﬂakes ml (2⁄3 cup) vegetable oil SALSA VERDE

1 cup (loosely packed) ﬂat-leaf parsley leaves ½ cup (loosely packed) dill ¼ cup ﬁnely chopped chives 1 tbsp coarsely chopped tarragon 98

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

150 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1½ tsp bonito dashi powder (see note) 1 Place mackerel skin-side down on a clean work surface and sprinkle liberally with salt ﬂakes. Place on a wire rack over a large tray and stand for 20 minutes. Rinse off salt then pat dry and leave skin-down on a clean dry cloth, uncovered in fridge for 2-3 hours, to dry out. 2 Meanwhile, for almond cream, combine almonds, vinegar, salt and 175ml water in a blender and blend until smooth. Gradually add oil and blend until emulsiﬁed; season to taste. If mixture is too thick add a little

water. Refrigerate until ready to use. Almond cream will keep for a week. 3 For salsa verde, place ingredients with 2 tsp salt flakes in a blender and blend until finely chopped; season to taste and set aside. 4 Place salsa verde in a bowl with chopped underripe strawberries season to taste and toss to combine; set aside. 5 Prepare and preheat a wood-fired charcoal barbecue for grilling. Drizzle mackerel skin with extra oil and place skin-side down over barbecue; cook until skin is blistered and charred (5-6 minutes). Remove from barbecue and place on a tray skin-side down then squeeze over lemon juice. 6 Divide salsa verde among plates and top with mackerel. Serve immediately with almond cream on the side. Note Bonito dashi powder is available from Japanese grocers. ➤

Basket-grilled rainbow chard

103

“If it makes sense to cook it over fire, we put it on the menu. If it doesn’t make sense to cook it over fire, we won’t do it.”

Lamb ribs, roasted sesame cream and mountain pepper dressing SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 4 HRS (PLUS STANDING, RESTING)

“At Agnes, we smoke the ribs in a hot smoker, burning wood at 130°C for three hours then wrap them in foil for a further hour,” says Williamson. “This could be replicated at home in a Weber, kettle barbecue or oven. Alternatively, you could steam to tender for two to three hours, cool, then cut and grill over coals.”

1 tbsp each whole black peppercorns, mountain pepper (see note) and coriander seeds, dry-roasted and ground 2 lamb spare rib racks (about 2kg), fat cap on ROASTED SESAME CREAM

125 ml (½ cup) reserved whey (see labne recipe, p98) 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 golden shallot, thinly sliced 125 gm roasted sesame seeds 50 gm buttermilk 40 gm natural yoghurt ¼ tsp bonito dashi powder (see note, p98) MOUNTAIN PEPPER DRESSING 1½ tbsp raw caster sugar 60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 garlic clove, finely grated Finely grated zest of 1 lemon ½ tsp each mountain pepper and coriander seeds, dry-roasted and ground 80 ml (1/3 cup) vegetable oil Juice of 1 lime, or to taste 1 For roasted sesame cream, place reserved whey from labne (see recipe, p98) in a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat and reduce by three-quarters

(3 minutes); cool completely. Meanwhile, heat oil in a small frying pan over high heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until softened (4 minutes); cool completely. Transfer reduced whey and shallots to a blender with 250ml (½ cup) water and remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Season to taste and set aside. 2 For mountain pepper dressing, place sugar in a small saucepan over high heat. Cook, swirling pan until a light caramel forms (2-3 minutes). Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice; cool to room temperature. Transfer to a bowl with remaining ingredients, season to taste and whisk to combine. Stir in lime juice to taste. Set aside until ready to serve. 3 Place black peppercorns, mountain pepper and coriander seeds in a small bowl and toss to combine. Drizzle lamb with extra oil, scatter over half of spice mixture, and season with salt flakes; stand on a wire rack at room temperature for 30 minutes. 4 Preheat oven to 160˚C. Place lamb and wire rack in a large high-sided roasting pan and add enough water so that it comes up to the wire rack. Cover tightly with foil and cook until lamb is very tender (4 hours). Remove lamb and cut in half so you have about 4 ribs per person. 5 Meanwhile, prepare and preheat a wood-fired charcoal barbecue for grilling. Season lamb all over, then barbecue, turning frequently, until charred (2-3 minutes). Set aside to rest for 5 minutes, then cut into portions. 6 Divide lamb among plates, spoon over dressing and scatter with remaining spice mixture. Place a spoonful of sesame cream on each plate and serve with remaining dressing on the side. Note Mountain pepper or Tasmanian native pepper is available from specialist greengrocers; if unavailable, substitute black peppercorns. ➤

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Basket-grilled rainbow chard SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

“This is all about the leaves taking on the ﬂavour of the coals,” says Williamson. “Once you’ve tried this you’ll be addicted to the ﬂavour.” Pictured p100

125 ml (½ cup) verjuice 1 tbsp chardonnay or apple cider vinegar 1 tsp smoked sea salt ﬂakes (see note) ½ tsp bonito dashi powder (see note p98) 125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 large bunch rainbow chard, leaves and stalks separated Dried chilli ﬂakes, to serve HAZELNUT TARATOR

100 gm hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed 2 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste 10 gm smoked sea salt ﬂakes 250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil

1 For hazelnut tarator (see note), place hazelnuts, lemon juice and salt in a blender with 125ml water, and pulse until combined. Gradually add oil until combined and emulsiﬁed. Do not overblend because mixture will split. If mixture is too thick, add a little extra water. Cover and set aside. 2 For verjuice dressing, place verjuice, vinegar, smoked salt, dashi powder and olive oil in a jar with a lid; season to taste and shake well to combine. 3 Prepare a wood-ﬁred charcoal barbecue for grilling. Place chard leaves and stalks in a large bowl with 125ml dressing; season to taste and toss to

combine. Add stems first to grilling basket and cook, turning frequently, until charred but still with a crunch (4-5 minutes). Transfer to a chopping board to cool slightly and slice thickly. Add leaves and cook, turning frequently, until charred and wilted (2-3 minutes). Transfer stalks and leaves back to the bowl, add remaining dressing, season to taste and toss to combine. 4 Divide hazelnut tarator among bowls, top with charred chard mixture, drizzle over a little more verjuice dressing and scatter with chilli flakes. Note Tarator is a tahini-based Middle Eastern sauce. In this recipe, we’ve used hazelnuts instead of sesame. Smoked sea salt flakes are available from select supermarkets and delicatessens.

Redlove and almond clafoutis MAKES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)

“When baking for Agnes Bakery during lockdown, we came across Redlove apples, and what’s awesome about these is the hue that comes through,” says Williamson.

8 2 250 100 1 50

egg yolks eggs ml (1 cup) thickened cream gm caster sugar tbsp plain ﬂour gm almond meal Honey and whipped double cream, to serve ROASTED REDLOVE APPLE

285 200 200 200 3 1 6

gm honey ml verjuice gm caster sugar ml chardonnay vinegar star anise, dry-roasted cinnamon quill, dry-roasted redlove apples (100gm each), quartered (see note)

1 Preheat a wood-ﬁred oven or oven to 180˚C. To roast redlove apples, place honey, verjuice, sugar, vinegar and spices in a large ovenproof saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and reduce by half (5 minutes). Add apples and stir carefully until combined. Cover with foil and roast for 15 minutes or until softened. Cool completely. Once cooled, slice apples into four, lengthways. 2 For clafoutis mixture, combine eggs, yolks and cream in a bowl and whisk until combined. Place sugar, ﬂour and almond meal in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add to egg mixture and whisk to a smooth batter. Stand for 2 hours.

3 Grease base and sides of four 250ml-capacity cast-iron pans or ovenproof dishes. Divide batter among pans, ﬁlling halfway. Divide three-quarters of apple wedges among pans and evenly place on top. Place pans on an oven tray and bake until golden brown and just set with a slight wobble in the centre (14-16 minutes). 4 Drizzle honey over clafoutis, top with cream and serve with remaining apples on the side. Note Redlove apples are red inside and out and have a similar ﬂavour to Granny Smith apples. They are available from specialist greengrocers.

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ALL A LY

RED HOT

t O L I V I A B L AC KM OR E

S tyl i s T T FA

Chef TONY TAN turns up the heat, showcasing some of his red-hot dishes with chillies front and centre.

L I

I L

Dan dan mian

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Cambodian coconut water soup with prawns SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

Dan dan mian SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

“Classic dan dan noodles are made with pork and a preserved mustard green called ya cai mixed with spices and chilli oil. In this vegetarian version, I have used fresh tofu and shiitake mushrooms for texture and flavour,” says Tony Tan. “Now that fresh wheat noodles are readily available, the best noodle for this recipe is one with medium thickness. They are sometimes called Shanghai noodles.” Pictured p105

100 1 2 30

gm firm tofu, crumbled tbsp light soy sauce tbsp Shaoxing rice wine gm dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in 250ml hot water for 10 minutes 500 gm fresh wheat noodles 2 tbsp vegetable oil Handful chopped spring onions, to serve CHILLI OIL

500 ml vegetable oil 15 gm ginger, finely chopped 100 gm chilli flakes DAN DAN SAUCE

80 ml chilli oil, including sediment (see recipe above) 2 tbsp ya cai (see intro) 2 spring onions, finely chopped 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tsp dark soy sauce 2 tbsp fermented tofu, mashed (see note) 1 tbsp Chinese roasted sesame paste (see note) or peanut butter 1 tbsp Chinkiang vinegar ½ tsp Sichuan pepper, dry-roasted and ground 250 ml (1 cup) vegetable stock

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1 For chilli oil, heat oil with ginger in a saucepan to 120°C-130°C. Place chilli flakes in a heatproof bowl, then pour hot oil over and leave for 24 hours before using (see note). 2 Marinate tofu with light soy sauce, half the Shaoxing and season to taste with salt and pepper (15 minutes). Drain shiitake, reserving soaking water. Squeeze excess water from shiitake and slice off and discard stalks, then finely chop the caps and set aside. 3 For dan dan sauce, heat chilli oil in a wok over medium heat. Add ya cai and spring onions, and stir-fry until fragrant (1 minute). Add marinated tofu, shiitake and remaining Shaoxing and stir-fry until fragrant (1-2 minutes). Add remaining sauce ingredients and reserved mushroom water; mix well. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, cook noodles according to packet instructions. Drain into a colander and rinse with hot water. Toss with oil to prevent sticking and divide noodles among serving bowls. Spoon over dan dan sauce and top with spring onions and extra chilli oil for chilli lovers. Note Chilli oil will keep in a jar at room temperature for 1 month. Fermented tofu and Chinese roasted sesame paste are available from Asian grocers.

“I had this soup a few years ago in Siem Reap when I went to cook for friends sailing down the mighty Mekong River,” says Tan. “Packed with the flavour of coconut water, the soup tastes fresh and nourishing. Any seafood or meat is also marvellous for this soup.”

2 2 1 1 1 2 1.2 1-2 1 1 60 1

tbsp vegetable oil red shallots (100gm), thinly sliced garlic clove, finely chopped lemongrass stalk, white part only, thinly sliced and pounded to a paste tbsp galangal (optional), thinly sliced and pounded to a paste litres coconut water kg green prawns, peeled and deveined, tails intact red cayenne chillies, seeded and thinly sliced zucchini, thinly sliced bunch choy sum, cut into thirds ml (¼ cup) fish sauce, or to taste tbsp palm sugar Thai basil, coriander and steamed rice, to serve

1 Heat oil in a large saucepan over low-medium heat. Cook shallots, stirring frequently, until golden (2-3 minutes). Add garlic, lemongrass and galangal and cook until fragrant (1-2 minutes). 2 Add coconut water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for flavours to meld (5 minutes). Strain soup through a fine sieve into a clean pan. Season prawns and add to pan with remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer until prawns are just cooked (1-2 minutes). Divide soup among bowls, scatter with herbs and serve with rice on the side. ➤

Cambodian coconut water soup with prawns

Chicken pepper stir-fry

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Eggplant, coconut and tamarind sambal

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Eggplant, coconut and tamarind sambal SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS

“I learnt this dish from my ChristianTamil neighbour years ago in Malaysia,” says Tan. “Tangy and moreish, this sambal is perfect poured over rice and teamed with the chicken stir-fry recipe in this collection.” Pictured p109

50 ¼ 1 1 1 1 1 2 ¼ 2 500 150

gm tamarind pulp cup ghee or vegetable oil tsp fenugreek seeds onion, finely chopped tbsp finely chopped ginger green chilli, sliced tsp chilli powder tsp ground coriander tsp ground turmeric tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped gm eggplant, cut into 2cm cubes ml coconut cream Steamed rice, to serve

1 Soak tamarind in 250ml warm water (10 minutes). Break up the pulp with your fingers and squeeze to release the juices. Strain through a fine sieve and discard solids. 2 Heat ghee or vegetable oil in a saucepan over medium heat and fry fenugreek seeds until fragrant and darker (30 seconds). Add onion, ginger and green chilli, and fry until onion is soft and golden brown. Stir in ground spices, and fry until fragrant (30 seconds). Add half the tamarind liquid then reduce heat and simmer gently (2-3 minutes). 3 Add tomato, eggplant and ½ cup water to the pan. Simmer for a minute before adding the rest of the tamarind liquid. 4 Add coconut cream to the pan and cook for another minute. Increase the heat to medium and add another ½ cup water. Add salt to taste and simmer, covered, until the eggplant is soft and sauce has thickened (10-15 minutes). Serve eggplant with rice on the side.

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Hunan steamed fish with salted chillies and fermented black beans SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS FERMENTING)

“One of the best known dishes from Hunan province, I love it for its briny and punchy flavours,” says Tan. “Made with salted or fermented chillies and fermented black soy beans – dou chi – it’s really quick and easy to cook.” Begin this recipe at least 2 weeks ahead to ferment the chillies.

4 snapper or barramundi fillets (200gm each) 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger Pinch of sugar 1 tsp rice wine vinegar 110 gm salted chillies (recipe below) 2 spring onions, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp fermented salted black beans, rinsed and strained ¼ cup vegetable oil SALTED CHILLIES

200 gm red cayenne chillies 2 tbsp sea salt 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 To make salted chillies, wash and slice chillies. Pound chillies coarsely with salt in a mortar and pestle. Place chillies in a sterilised jar and stir in vinegar. Seal and leave to ferment

at room temperature (2-3 weeks). 2 Combine soy, Shaoxing, ginger, sugar, vinegar and salted chillies in a small bowl. Place fish on a plate that will fit a bamboo steamer basket and spoon over chilli mixture and marinate (10 minutes). 3 To steam, top fish with black beans and half the spring onions. Place plate in steamer over a saucepan of boiling water. Cover and steam until fish is just cooked through (5-7 minutes). 4 Just before serving, place fish on a platter and scatter with remaining spring onions. Heat oil in a small saucepan until starting to smoke, taking care, pour over spring onion and serve. Note Tan serves this dish with stir-fried Chinese cabbage, which he fries in vegetable oil with 3 halved dried chillies, 1 tsp each crushed Sichuan peppercorns and chilli oil, 125ml chicken stock, a dash of rice wine vinegar, sugar and salt. ➤

Hunan steamed fish with salted chillies and fermented black beans

Chicken pepper stir-fry SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

“Here’s another classic from my Tamil friends. The food of south India is, sadly, not well known here but if you ever go to Singapore and Malaysia, most of the Indian food there is either from Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka,” says Tan. Pictured p108

1⁄₄ ½ 1 15 3 2 3 2 500

cup ghee or vegetable oil tsp brown mustard seeds sprig curry leaves gm (3cm piece) ginger, finely shredded green cayenne chillies, thinly sliced onions, thinly sliced garlic cloves, chopped tomatoes, diced gm chicken thigh fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces Large pinch of ground black pepper Juice of half lemon or lime Extra fried curry leaves, to serve SPICE PASTE

1 tbsp vegetable oil 100 gm coarsely grated coconut flesh (or 50 gm desiccated coconut)

2 3 5 1 ½ ½ 1

cloves cardamom pods black peppercorns cm piece of cinnamon quill tsp chilli powder tsp ground turmeric tsp ground coriander

1 For spice paste, heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat and add coconut, cloves, cardamom pods, peppercorns and cinnamon, and cook, stirring occasionally, until coconut is golden brown. Add ground spices and cook for another minute. Cool and transfer to a blender. Add 200ml water and blend to a fine paste. 2 Heat ghee or oil in a large saucepan

over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and as soon as they pop, add curry leaves, ginger and green chilli. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened (2-3 minutes). Add onion and cook until golden brown (2-3 minutes). Add garlic, followed by tomatoes and spice paste, stirring each ingredient for a minute, before adding the next one. Season to taste with salt. 3 Add chicken to the pan and cook until golden (2-3 minutes). Add 250ml hot water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat, cover pan partially with a lid and cook until chicken is tender and the liquid is well reduced (3-4 minutes). Serve stir-fry sprinkled with black pepper, a squeeze of lemon juice and with extra fried curry leaves.

Nyonya pork spare ribs SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MENU // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2 HRS

“The origin of this dish is from the Penang Peranakan community. It’s super delicious and addictive with tangy, savoury notes, made with blended chillies, garlic, ginger and tau cheo or fermented yellow soy beans and finished off with tamarind and plum sauce. Ask your butcher to cut the ribs in half horizontally so the ribs are shorter in length,” says Tan.

6-8 2 4 1 2 2 600 750 2

red fresh or dried cayenne chillies tbsp vegetable oil garlic cloves, crushed tbsp finely chopped ginger golden shallots, finely chopped tbsp yellow bean sauce (see note) gm pork ribs (see intro) ml chicken stock or water tbsp tamarind extract (see note) Dash of dark soy sauce 1 tsp sugar or to taste 2 tbsp plum sauce Chopped coriander and spring onions, to serve

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1 For fresh chillies, slice and blend in a blender to a paste. If using dried chillies, snip with scissors and cover with boiling water in a heatproof bowl and soak (20 minutes). When soft, discard water and blend in a blender to a coarse paste. 2 Heat oil in a wok or large frying pan. When hot, add chillies, garlic, ginger and shallots and stir-fry until golden (5 minutes). Reduce heat to low-medium and add yellow bean sauce. Continue to stir-fry (3-4 minutes), then add pork ribs and cook until golden (2-3 minutes). 3 Add chicken stock or water to the pan. Bring to the boil and add tamarind, soy and sugar. Cover and reduce heat to

low, and simmer until liquid is reduced to a syrup and meat is tender (11/2 hours). Stir through plum sauce; adjust seasoning. Scatter over coriander and spring onions. Note Tan serves this dish with an acar of pickled sliced cucumber and chillies, with salt and sugar to taste, and a splash of rice wine vinegar. Yellow bean sauce (tau cheo or taucu in the Hokkien dialect) is made from soy beans that are salted and fermented. If unavailable, substitute miso. To make 80ml tamarind extract, combine 1 tbsp tamarind pulp with 100ml water, and stand until pulp softens. Break up pulp in water with back of spoon and strain through a coarse sieve. ●

“The origin of this dish is from the Penang Peranakan community. It’s super delicious and addictive with tangy, savoury notes.”

Nyonya pork spare ribs

Smoky Black tahini brittle ice-cream

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sweets

S’mores pie

In her new book Wild Sweetness, food writer THALIA HO shares desserts that capture the fleeting flavours of the season. Photography THALIA HO

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W This extract from Wild Sweetness by Thalia Ho (HarperCollins ; $39.99) has been reproduced with minor GT style edits.

inter is known to assault the senses, but if there’s anything it teaches us, it’s that not all lies dormant. It turns us ravenous. Thirsts become deeper; hungers, greater; and desires, stronger. Smoke is synonymous with the new season, for fire is at its heart. It’s primal. Who we are, what we are, stripped down to the core. I’ve always thought that the body eats but the spirit remembers, and smoke sates some savage within, however deep or buried. It’s comforting and familiar, but with a bad reputation. I don’t think it’s as overpowering or narcotic as it’s made out to be; instead subtle, secretive and shy. Not just soot, ash, or smog, but elemental and earthen, with a rather feverish undertone; it’s complex. And therein lies its beauty. It’s elusive and hard to tame. We can’t hold it as we can other aromatics, like spices, zests, or florals, but make no mistake: it is an aromatic, and one that should be used. In fact, we’ve been relying on it to enhance food for almost ever. It doesn’t just need to come from fire, as it can be found in a lot of other ingredients too, like coffee, nuts, chocolate, and salt, as well as tea, sugar, alcohol, and grains.

S’mores pie SERVES 8-12

“This is s’mores at its finest, but better, with ras el hanout,” says Thalia Ho. “The flavour reminds me of long, fevered nights around the fire,” Pictured p115 PIE CRUST

130 gm (1 cup) Shredded Wheatmeal biscuit crumbs 2 tbsp white sugar 70 gm unsalted butter

½ tsp each cracked black pepper and ground coriander ¼ tsp each ground turmeric, ground cloves and ground cumin Pinch of saffron threads

PIE FILLING

255 gm (1½ cups) ﬁnely chopped dark chocolate 280 ml heavy cream 80 ml (1⁄3 cup) milk 2 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract MERINGUE

2 large eggwhites 150 gm (¾ cup) white sugar ROSE RAS EL HANOUT

2 2 1 3 2 1

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tbsp dried rose petals tbsp ground cinnamon tbsp ground ginger tsp ground paprika tsp ground cardamom tsp each cayenne pepper, fennel seeds and ground nutmeg

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 To make rose ras el hanout, combine ingredients in a jar. Seal, then let it sit overnight, so that the aromatics have time to get to know each other 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. Place a 23cm pie dish on a baking tray. 3 To make pie crust, combine biscuit crumbs, sugar and 1⁄4 tsp salt in a bowl. 4 Place butter in a small saucepan over low heat and stir until melted. Increase heat to medium-high and continue to cook, swirling pan often, until a deep amber-hued liquid has formed. Add crumbs, stir to combine, then transfer to pie dish. Use the back of a spoon to press biscuit mixture into the base and up the side. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes,

until golden brown. Set aside to cool. Lower oven temperature to 160ºC. 5 To make filling, place chocolate in a large bowl and set aside. Warm cream and milk in a saucepan, then pour over chocolate. Let stand for a minute, then whisk until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, whisking well to incorporate each addition, then mix in vanilla. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into pie crust. 6 Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, rotating halfway through, until just set. It should be puffed and have a slight wiggle. Cool to room temperature. 7 To make meringue, combine eggwhites and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Set bowl over a saucepan filled with a few centimetres of barely simmering water. Heat, whisking often, until mixture reaches 71ºC on a sugar thermometer. Set bowl on stand mixer and whisk on high speed until thick and glossy (5 minutes), then whisk in a generous pinch of rose ras el hanout. 8 Spread meringue over top of pie, then singe with a blow torch. This pie is best eaten on the day of making but can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Walnut snowballs MAKES ABOUT 20

“Heat seems to transform the flavour profile of a walnut completely, turning it into something more bitter, tannic, and smoked,” says Ho.

100 gm walnuts 200 gm plain flour 150 gm unsalted butter, softened at room temperature Seeds of a vanilla bean 160 gm pure icing sugar

Black tahini brittle ice-cream SERVES 4-6

“This is pure smoke,” says Ho. “Made from sesame seeds that have been roasted then ground into a paste, it has a sweet taste of soot.” Pictured p114 ICE-CREAM

360 360 4 125 140

ml (1½ cups) heavy cream ml (1½ cups) milk egg yolks gm white sugar gm black tahini BRITTLE

Vegetable oil, for greasing 150 gm (¾ cup) white sugar 60 ml (¼ cup) water 50 gm black sesame seeds 1 To make ice-cream, pour cream and milk into a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat until mixture reaches a simmer. Meanwhile, whisk together yolks, sugar and tahini in a medium heatproof bowl. 2 Slip a little stream of hot cream into yolks, whisking well to acclimatise them to the heat, then pour it all back into the saucepan. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow to boil. Remove from heat

and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it onto surface of custard to prevent a skin from forming. Chill until cold (at least 8 hours but preferably overnight). 3 The next morning, remove mixture from refrigerator and stir to loosen. Transfer to an ice-cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrape churned ice-cream into a container, cover and freeze until just firm before serving. 4 To make brittle, line a baking sheet with baking paper. Lightly grease surface with vegetable oil then set aside. 5 Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat until it has reached a boil and begun to take on a honeyed hue around the edges of the pan. Add sesame seeds and continue to cook for 3 minutes, or until deep amber in colour. Transfer to prepared sheet and leave to harden before snapping into shards and serving with the ice-cream.

1 Set oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven. Preheat oven to 180ºC. Line two baking trays with baking paper. 2 Scatter walnuts on one tray. Roast for 10 to 12 minutes, or until brown; set aside to cool. Transfer to a food processor and process to a fine meal, being careful not to overprocess. It shouldn’t take more than 15 seconds. Transfer to a medium bowl with flour and 1/4 tsp salt. 3 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and vanilla seeds on medium speed until smooth, then add 75gm icing sugar; beat for 3 minutes, or until pale and creamy. Pause mixing to scrape down the bottom and side of the bowl. Set speed to low. Tip in dry ingredients and beat until a soft dough has just begun to form. Cover and transfer to the refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 160ºC. Place remaining icing sugar in a shallow bowl. With a teaspoon as a measure, scoop out portions of the dough, then use your hands to roll each into balls. If you have a scale, they should each be about 20gm each. Divide between prepared sheets, placing 4cm apart, as they’ll puff up during baking. 5 Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, rotating trays halfway through, until light golden brown. Allow to cool on sheets for a few minutes before rolling in sugar, one at a time. Transfer to a wire rack and let coating set. Roll again, for a final time. Snowballs will keep well, stored in an airtight container at room temperature, for about a week. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Immerse yourself in the dark delights of Tasmania’s coolest season with recipes from Winter Wild by JANICE SUTTON.

W I N T E R F E A S T I N G

PHOTOGRAPHY DEARNA BOND (MUSSELS). RECIPE (REINHARD HEMM).

Spring Bay mussels in a spicy tomato and wine sauce

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moke billows and swirls, and flames flicker and glow as the aroma of delicious fire-cooked dishes fill the air at the Dark Mofo Winter Feast in Hobart, enticing you in. In ancient times, fire-cooking was most likely borne out of the necessity to sustain life, but today, other than the sheer joy, simplicity and spectacle of cooking food this way, it’s all about the extra flavour that cooking with fire imparts. Charring builds flavour – the deep, complex layers of flavour that have us clamouring for more. The process of charring fruit and vegetables caramelises their natural sugars and intensifies their flavour, rendering them soft and sweet on the inside with a delicious crisp char on the outside. Charring also adds a lovely smoky flavour to foods, the flavour profile, depending on whether you use charcoal or wood, and in the case of wood, the type of wood you choose to use. Tasmanian winters are a cauldron of festival activity, so the festival fever doesn’t just stop with Dark Mofo and its fabulous Winter Feast. The recipes in this book celebrate the coolest and darkest season in our southernmost state.

Fire-charred corn with spicy miso butter SERVES 4

125 gm unsalted butter, softened 30 gm red miso paste ½-1 tsp red chilli flakes, or finely chopped birdseye chilli ½ tbsp orange zest ½ tbsp sesame seeds 2 cm piece ginger, grated 4 corn cobs Lime wedges, to serve

Charring builds flavour – the deep, complex layers of flavour that have us clamouring for more.

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 To make miso butter, combine butter and miso paste in a bowl. 2 In a mortar and pestle, grind chilli flakes and set aside. Add orange zest and sesame seeds to a small frying pan and lightly toast over medium-low heat until fragrant. Add to miso butter along with crushed chilli flakes and ginger. Mix well to combine. 3 Preheat a barbecue or char-grill pan over high heat. Slather corn with spicy miso butter then cook on barbecue, turning occasionally, until evenly charred and cooked through (10-12 minutes). Baste corn with more spicy miso butter as needed. 4 Serve corn with wedges of lime and extra butter, if desired. ➤

PHOTOGRAPHY DARKLAB MEDIA (FAIRY LIGHTS) & JANICE SUTTON (CORN). RECIPE JANICE SUTTON.

You can cook the corn on a hibachi, barbecue grill, griddle pan, or over an open fire.

Spring Bay mussels in a spicy tomato and wine sauce SERVES 4-6

1 kg Spring Bay mussels SAUCE

Settlers negroni

30 1 4 ½-1

gm butter onion, finely chopped garlic cloves, crushed tsp chilli flakes, or 1 fresh red chilli, finely chopped 1 tsp paprika 2 cups dry white wine 500 gm canned crushed tomatoes Juice of ½ lemon Chopped parsley, to garnish Lemon wedges, to serve Sourdough, to serve

1 Melt butter in a large lidded saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until soft and translucent. Stir in chilli and paprika and sauté until aromatic. Add wine, bring to a simmer, then add tomatoes; cook for 15 minutes until sauce has thickened slightly. Add lemon juice, season and stir to combine. 2 Bring sauce to the boil, add mussels and place lid on; steam for 5-7 minutes, or until mussels start opening. 3 Transfer mussels to serving bowls as they open, then ladle over sauce. Scatter over parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with sourdough.

Settlers Negroni MAKES 1

The Settlers Negroni is loosely based on a traditional Negroni. Navy Strength gin rose in popularity during the 18th century in the British navy, which was required to carry a minimum amount of gin on their ships. It is no surprise therefore, that some of the gin made its way to Tasmania during early settlement.

30 25 25 2

ml Lawrenny 1818 Settlers Gin ml Ruby Grapefruit Apero ml house-made vermouth dashes Tasmanian Bitters Mountain Pepperberry Grapefruit wedges, charred, to garnish

1 Add ingredients to a mixing jug over ice. Stir down. 2 Serve in a traditional glass over ice cubes. Garnish with charred grapefruit.

The Settlers Negroni is loosely based on a traditional Negroni.

PHOTOGRAPHY DEARNA BOND (NEGRONI, CHICKEN & BOOK COVER) & DARKLAB MEDIA (CROSSES & HANGING GARDEN). RECIPES JOANA CUBILLOS (CHICKEN) & MATEO ORTIZ (NEGRONI).

Spring Bay Seafood’s plump and tender mussels infuse this vibrant spicy sauce with a beautiful deep-sea flavour. Pictured p119

Pollo al Coñac SERVES 4-6

Pollo al Coñac (cognac chicken) is a traditional Chilean dish and the perfect meal for the cooler winter months. The chicken is first flambéed with cognac or brandy, then cooked in white wine along with a generous quantity of black pepper.

1-2 2 1 1 1 1½ 2 2 1

tbsp olive oil onions, thinly sliced kg chicken thighs tsp ground cumin tsp ground oregano cups cognac, or brandy cups chicken stock cups white wine tbsp ground black pepper Steamed rice and parsley, to serve

This extract from Winter Wild by Janice Sutton (Magpie Publishing; $85) has been reproduced with minor GT style edits.

1 Heat oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent. Add chicken, cumin, oregano and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until brown. 2 To flambé chicken, add 1 cup of the brandy to the pan and carefully light it up. Move pan around a little to make sure that all of the alcohol is burnt off.

Once flambéed, add chicken stock, wine and pepper to the pan. Cook over low heat for 2 hours until chicken is soft and cooked through. Once cooked, add remaining cognac or brandy and cook for a further 30 minutes to allow the alcohol to burn off. 3 Scatter over parsley and serve with rice and a cup of jus on the side. ●

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TRAVEL J U LY

Winter wonderland The art of fire feasting, our guide to the best après-ski spots in Queenstown, checking into Wellington’s Intrepid Hotel, and hunting for truffles in Tasmania.

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW CHRISTIE.

Central Otago, New Zealand

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The art of… fire feasting If you want to understand a different culture, just look at what they do with food and fire, writes ANNA HART.

The art of travel

ILLUSTRATION VIVIEN WALSH.

was fresh off a flight from London and you learn with your hand held above a flame. had rolled up to Sandy Bay, a little north Any nomadic society will have perfected of Auckland, in my converted Toyota Lucida its fire-cooking game, too, and the Mongolian camper. And I’d just spotted the public beach Khorkhog is a fabulously carnivorous and barbecues that Aussies and Kiwis blithely take for celebratory meal: cooking mutton with hot stones. granted. “Are these, like, free barbecues? For just Then, of course, there is American barbecue. anyone to use? Communal grills? Right here on the I’ve made pilgrimages all across Texas in search beach?” With these words, I realised New Zealand of the sweetest and stickiest ribs in the West (I still is one of the most civilised nations on the planet. think la Barbecue in Austin wins.) And in Sweden, By “civilised”, I mean “evolved in a manner fire cooking has gone seriously high-end thanks that our ancestors would approve of”. And if to chefs like Niklas Ekstedt and Magnus Nilsson, I were a hominid, I’d have certainly hoped that the latter of whom’s hugely influential Fäviken by 2021, my descendants would have made it regularly topped World’s Best Restaurants lists. significantly simpler to grill a load of meat for It was Ekstedt who told me that food “stopped the tribe. Because cooking over fire has been evolving” when electricity came into play in Sweden a human priority from the day we discovered it. in the 1930s. He wanted to start evolving again, And to the eyes of a British traveller like myself, crafting inventive dishes by controlling a simple New Zealand’s 21st-century public fire. Cooking over fire is beach barbecues were the very Cooking food over fire pleasingly primitive and height of class, sophistication pioneering; eating food cooked is pleasingly primitive and progressiveness, the sort of over an open fire is satisfyingly technological and sociological and pioneering; eating feral and fancy. innovation that would have As I travelled, salivating and food cooked over an any sensible Neanderthal socialising around international open fire is satisfyingly nodding in approval. fire pits, it saddened me that I loved what these public feral and fancy. I come from a damp corner of grills said about the Kiwi spirit, the planet where cooking has gleaming (if occasionally grimy) monuments to largely retreated indoors. In Ireland, barbecues generosity, community-mindedness, hospitality… were considered a bit of a joke, amounting to a few and gluttony. It was during my time in New burnt sausages in a disposable cardboard carton Zealand, witnessing Saturday barbecues elevated and a tub of coleslaw, more a science experiment to an art form and experiencing an unforgettable than a meal. Across the UK, we’re actively hangi, that it struck me how much you can learn discouraged from barbecuing or building fires about a culture by examining its relationship with in parks or on beaches; having a barbecue on fire and food. Because fire makes a meal a feast. the beach or in the forest is a birthright in many In São Paulo, a street artist I interviewed countries, but not mine. And a country which took me to his favourite simple churrascaria, loses its connection to cooking with fire, well, where waiters rove around the restaurant slicing that country loses its soul. meat directly on to customers’ plates with Fortunately, things are changing in the UK: melodramatic flourish. In Johannesburg, two in part owing to wildly popular fire-centric London cookbook writers, Nikki Werner and Brandon restaurants such as Neil Rankin’s Temper. But de Kock, took me shopping in the market before driven more by a year of lockdowns and social talking me through a traditional lamb braai. distancing measures. Last summer, with restaurants Turkey is also a superpower on the international closed and all social gatherings shoved outdoors, barbecue scene, where a terrifyingly enthusiastic my local beach was dotted with small fires, as ocakbasi chef taught me the ‘five-count rule’: stick families and friends cooked in small tribal your hand five inches above the grill and try to gatherings. It didn’t feel like Britain – it felt like count to five. If you whip your hand away after Australia or New Zealand. And that sight was a second, this is the optimum temperature for wonderfully reassuring to me, the most visible sign quick-chargrilling vegetables; a two-count is great that perhaps things were going to be okay. Because for crispy fish; while a three-four count is perfect for 12,000 years, as long as humans have had food, for red meat. Trust me: you never forget a lesson and fire, family and friends, we have been okay ●

Anna is a travel and lifestyle journalist, and author of the travel memoir Departures. @annadothart G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Fire ICE AND

With borders reopened, Queenstown has become the hottest destination to visit this winter. JOANNA HUNKIN explores the best places to indulge in some fireside comfort and celebrate the art of après-ski in Central Otago.

Photography ANDREW CHRISTIE

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othing clears the head quite like the bright skies and crisp air of a near-freezing morning in Queenstown. A few deep breaths are all it takes to feel refreshed and revitalised, ready to take on the day ahead. Which is just as well, as the region is home to some of the world’s best pinot noir and the tendency to overindulge soars as the temperature drops. Of course, you don’t need to spend your days blasting down the region’s ski fields to enjoy a winter escape in Queenstown, although it does add a certain satisfaction as you treat yourself to a venison steak dinner or while away an afternoon wine-tasting through the Gibbston Valley. In fact, the longer you spend exposed to that fresh, bracing air, the more decadent it feels when you find your way back to an open fire or sink yourself into a steaming hot bath or spa pool. Here, we explore the best places to eat, drink, stay and play in and around Queenstown.

Clockwise from left: autumnal vines in Gibbston Valley; inside Eichardt’s Bar; Lady Violette at Eichardt’s Bar; Air Milford’s Cessna Caravan on the tarmac; the Paciﬁc Jemm on Lake Wakatipu.

P L AY

DRINK The Winery If neither time nor weather are on your side, The Winery is the perfect one-stop shop to sample wines from throughout the region – as well as a few further afield. With two locations (one in Queenstown, one in Arrowtown), The Winery’s unique self-serve dispensers are both fun and convenient, allowing you to select either a taste, half glass or full glass from a wide range of New Zealand wines, while an electronic card keeps track of your tab. Be sure to chat to the staff, who really know their stuff and will happily guide you through the regions. Once you’ve found a favourite, order a cheese board and make the most of the open fireplace. 27 Ramshaw Ln, Arrowtown; 9 Ballarat St, Queenstown, thewinery.co.nz

Scenic ﬂight The only thing more impressive than marvelling at the Southern Alps from the ground, is marvelling at them from the air. Air Milford gets you up close and personal with Queenstown’s magnificent mountains, offering unobstructed views thanks to its fleet of “high-wing” Cessna aircraft. A one-hour flight will take you over five of the region’s glaciers, or you can spend the morning in Milford Sound and add on a twohour nature cruise with Southern Discoveries, to experience the natural wonder up close. airmilford.co.nz Cruising Lake Wakatipu If viewing Queenstown from the air isn’t an option, you can always head out on the water for a fresh perspective of the town and surrounding area. The TSS Earnslaw is a heritage icon of the town, ferrying people across Lake Wakatipu for more than 100 years. Or for a more exclusive experience, you can charter the Pacific Jemm yacht to explore the lake’s secret coves and islands. With four cabins (with ensuites) that sleep up to eight guests, it also serves as Queenstown’s most unique luxury accommodation. pacificjemm.com

Eichardt’s Bar A roaring fire and soft, plush blankets are just part of what make this small, stone and steel-clad bar so welcoming. Braver souls can enjoy the lakeside views alfresco but the best seats are those tucked away inside. Settle in and enjoy bar snacks from neighbouring restaurant, The Grille, along with an extensive selection of cocktails and Central Otago wines. 2 Marine Pde, Queenstown, eichardts.com

Onsen Hot Pools Plenty of hotels offer their own private spas and saunas, but none can compete with the scenic drama of Onsen Hot Pools, overlooking the Shotover River. Instagram has made this spot a Queenstown cliché but nothing can diminish the joy of peeling off your thermals after a long day on Coronet Peak and stepping into this bubbling nirvana. Plan ahead to book your spot, as this is one of the hottest tickets in town. 162 Arthurs Point Rd, Queenstown, onsen.co.nz

Kinross What’s better than sampling the wines of Central Otago’s best vineyard? Sampling the wines of five of Central Otago’s best vineyards. Just a 30-minute drive from central Queenstown will land you in the heart of Gibbston Valley, where you will find the Kinross cellar door, representing five of the region’s leading boutique wineries, including Coal Pit, Wild Irishman, Valli, Hawkshead and Kinross. With a team of expert sommeliers to guide you through your tasting, you’ll need to book ahead to ensure you don’t miss out. 2300 Gibbston Hwy, Queenstown, kinross.nz

Gibbston River Trail Every seasoned skier knows the only way to stop those leg muscles seizing up is to keep moving. Grab a bike and peddle through Gibbston Valley, with pit stops at various cellar doors along the way. The road up to Chard Farm – overlooking the Kawarau River – offers some of the most spectacular views in the region, while Mt Rosa Wines is famous for warming visitors with their signature mulled wine. The full trail is nine kilometres of easy riding, starting at Kawarau Suspension Bridge, with many operators offering pick-up and drop-off options. queenstowntrail.co.nz ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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E AT Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan Whether you’re looking for brunch, lunch or just a cheese platter to graze on, Akarua serves up some of Queenstown’s best all-day dining in one of the prettiest settings. The kitchen and dining room is housed in a heritage cottage, while outside a large alfresco courtyard is kept toasty with open fire pits and a cellar door. 265 Arrowtown-Lake Hayes Rd, Arrowtown, akaruaandartisan.co.nz Amisfield Executive chef Vaughan Mabee looks to the seasons and the unique landscape surrounding him when it comes to creating his bespoke tasting menus at Amisfield. The winery is famous for producing some of the region’s best drops and Mabee’s menu seeks to showcase the unique flavour and character of each variety, creating one of the best wine pairing experiences you’ll find anywhere in the world. 10 Lake Hayes Rd, Queenstown, amisfield.co.nz Aosta Unlike Australia, there’s a notable absence of quality Italian cooking to be found in New Zealand, which is just one reason Aosta is such a standout. Executive chef Ben Bayly is another reason, responsible for a menu of northern Italian classics, combined with local New Zealand produce. Think kina [sea urchin] pappardelle with shaved paua [abalone], followed by Fiordland venison rack. 18 Buckingham St, Arrowtown, aosta.nz Bespoke Kitchen The most important meal of the day becomes even more critical when you’re heading up the mountain for a full-day session. Power up with a selection of vegetable-laden breakfast bowls and smoothies, or grab yourself some baked goods to-go for a next-level morning tea on the mountain. 9 Isle St, Queenstown, bespokekitchen.co.nz Blue Kanu When you want to combine great food with good times, Blue Kanu is the place to take your party. Blending Pasifika and Asian flavours to create their own unique style of cooking, which they like to call “Polynasia”, Blue Kanu serves up tasty tropical fun, no matter how cold it is outside. 16 Church St, Queenstown, bluekanu.co.nz 132

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The Boat Shed For the best breakfast (or lunch) with a view, you’ll need to hop in a car and head out of town, until you reach The Boat Shed. Housed in the old Railway Shipping Office, this lakeside café and bistro dishes up generous serves that are as pretty as the surrounding views. 847 Frankton Rd, Queenstown, boatshedqueenstown.co.nz The Grille Carnivores are especially well catered for at The Grille, where executive chef Will Eaglesfield serves a selection of South Island beef and wild game. Those wanting to keep it simple will find comfort in the wagyu beef burger, or you can explore local produce and flavours with a three-course Taste the Region menu, which is excellent value at just $70. 9 Marine Pde, Queenstown, thegrille.co.nz Tanoshi You don’t have to spend a lot to eat well in Queenstown, especially if you can grab a stool at Tanoshi. The small but mighty teppan bar serves up ramen and donburi for lunch, before switching to a menu of Japanese tapas for dinner. If you can’t get into the restaurant, they have a separate take-out bar, Tanoshi Iko, just up the road. Cow Ln, Queenstown, tanoshi.co.nz ➤

Clockwise from top left: Amisfield winery; Aosta in Arrowtown; inside Amisfield’s dining room; Kiwi Lamington at Amisfield.

S TAY

The Spire Hotel Tucked away down one of Queenstown’s three bijoux laneways, The Spire Hotel offers sleek modern luxury and open gas fireplaces to keep you warm and well-rested. Its central location is perfect for those wanting to make the most of

Queenstown’s après-ski culture, while providing a cocoon of calm serenity behind closed doors. 3-5 Church Ln, Queenstown, thespirehotel.com Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa If big skies and open space are more your scene, Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa is the place for you. Just a 20-minute drive from the airport – and 30 minutes from the nearest ski field – the luxury lodge opened in late 2019 becoming the newest addition to the popular winery, which is one of the region’s founding vineyards. All of the resort’s 24 private villas feature open gas fireplaces and are located just a short walk from the winery’s cellar door and cheesery. Guests can choose to dine at the lodge’s private restaurant or head into nearby Arrowtown. For those seeking deep relaxation, the resort’s spa is world-class and as popular with locals as it is with guests. Plus there are two secluded hot pools available for guests to soak up the sweeping views of the valley. 1820 State Hwy 6, Gibbston, gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.com ●

PHOTOGRAPHY DAWN THOMSON (EICHARDT’S PRIVATE HOTEL EXTERIOR).

Eichardt’s Private Hotel Plenty of places lay claim to lakefront views in Queenstown, where the town stretches along the shores of Lake Wakatipu. But none shares the absolute lakefront positioning – and accompanying views – of Eichardt’s Private Hotel, built on the site of Queenstown’s first building (a woolshedturned-hotel). As the town has continued to sprawl outwards, Eichardt’s remains the most exclusive address for those wanting to stay in the heart of the bustling town centre, while still offering a calm oasis of classic luxury. Each of the hotel’s seven suites offers picture-postcard views and open fireplaces, while the two-bedroom penthouse includes a full-service kitchen (complete with Gaggenau appliances), plus an outdoor lounge, fireplace and hot tub, all overlooking the lake. Add to that your own private sauna and you’ll be hard pressed to ever make it up the mountain. 2 Marine Pde, Queenstown, eichardts.com

Clockwise from left: classic luxury at Eichardt’s Parlour; the façade of Eichardt’s Private Hotel; Eichardt’s penthouse spa; cured Mount Cook salmon with zucchini, onion and mustard seeds at Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa. Opposite: the villas at Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa. TIAKI PROMISE

Eichardt’s remains the most exclusive address for those wanting to stay in the heart of the town centre, while still offering a calm oasis of classic luxury.

Getting there Qantas and Air New Zealand fly direct to Queenstown from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.

Visitors to Aotearoa are asked to abide by the Tiaki Promise, designed to protect and care for the country, preserving it for future generations. Visitors must undertake to care for land, sea and nature, treading lightly and leaving no trace. Travel safely, showing care and consideration for all. And respect culture, travelling with an open heart and mind. tiakinewzealand.com

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CHECKING IN

The Intrepid Hotel, Wellington We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits NZ’s windy city.

We l l i n g t o n , NZ

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Quick look

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What was once an office and warehouse for Cadbury chocolate is now a seriously sweet place to retreat in New Zealand’s capital city. Nestled in the vibrant Ghuznee St in the heart of Wellington’s Te Aro neighbourhood, The Intrepid Hotel offers international standards at an approachable level. After entering the imposing heritage façade, you’ll be delighted to discover an effortlessly cool yet cosy interior where an eclectic collection of vintage furniture and contemporary pieces mix with original heritage features and a dramatic colour palette. While the overall offering may be splashy, the devil is in the details – on each level waits a hydration station complete with a Moccamaster coffee maker and sparkling water tap. And if you’re feeling a midnight snack, the in-room minibar is stocked with locally made goodies, all on the house. This, combined with a warm Wellingtonian welcome, makes for an experience that is both unique and world-class. theintrepidhotel.com

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Where 60 Ghuznee St, Te Aro, Wellington Facilities Prices from NZ$280 per night for a queen room Hotel bar Yes Spa/Gym No Free WiFi Yes

Translating to “container of treasures”, Te Papa Museum is a must-visit while in town. Start with the Mana Whenua exhibition and learn about the Indigenous people of Aotearoa New Zealand before exploring the museum’s broad collection of contemporary works, including an interactive web made from 3700 balls of wool by Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, take a stroll to the hidden gem that is Hannah’s Laneway and sample small-batch peanut butter at Fix & Fogg, a salted caramel cookie from Leeds Street Bakery, and bean-to-bar chocolate at Wellington Chocolate Factory.

B R E W E R Y

T O U R

Wellington is ﬁlled to the brim with creativity, and craft breweries – which makes sense as the two go hand in hand. Located within a hop, skip and jump (or stumble) of each other are a bunch of brew bars that are pushing the boundaries with beer, including Garage Project, Heyday, Whistling Sisters and Fortune Favours, just to name a few. If beer isn’t your thing, go to Puffin, an excellent natural wine bar underneath The Intrepid Hotel.

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WORDS KARLIE VERKERK. PHOTOGRAPHY JOHNNY HENDRIKUS (WELLINGTON) & DANIEL KREISCHE (ROOM).

Clockwise from left: Ortega Fish Shack’s dining room; peanut butter treats at Fix & Fogg; a cosy room at The Intrepid Hotel; snapper with shellﬁsh velouté at Ortega Fish Shack. Opposite: a view of Wellington from Mount Victoria.

E X P L O R E

Checking in

Breakfast

Lunch

Dinner

If you’re wondering what perfectly scrambled eggs look like – soft and creamy and cooked over just enough heat to hold together in an indulgent cloud – make your way to Floriditas. Part-owned by Dominique and Hayden McMillan (previous owners of Melbourne’s Etta), it comes as no surprise the classics are mastered and modernised here. ﬂoriditas.co.nz

Specialising in Neopolitan wood-ﬁred pizza, Pizza Pomodoro is the stalwart of Leeds Street. Rightfully certiﬁed by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association, Massimo Tolve and his team have been kneading, stretching and topping dough for more than 20 years. You can dine in, get one for the road or wash your pie down with a beer at Golding’s Free Dive bar across the lane. pizzapomodoro.co.nz

Nowhere embodies Kiwis’ love of an understatement quite like Ortega Fish Shack. What sounds as if it should be a cheap and cheerful chippie, is in fact one of the capital’s best restaurants, serving up polished plates of fresh seafood. Likewise, Rita, which sits tucked away in a heritage cottage in Aro Valley, might seem low-key with its cork-topped tables and daily set menu (dietaries can be accommodated) but chef Kelda Hains never fails to impress with her Chez Panisse-inspired cooking, using fresh seasonal produce straight from her garden. ortega.co.nz, rita.co.nz G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Take your taste buds to Tasmania and indulge in this highly prized delight, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

B L AC K B E AU T Y

A field in Launceston. Opposite: foraged truffles.

here are worse ways to start the day than lounging in a bathrobe watching water birds frolic in the silvery shallows of the Tamar River while fresh truffle is shaved over your poached eggs and the condensation on your Bloody Mary catches the morning light. The sense of wellbeing is enhanced by the fact that this in-room breakfast won’t be the only encounter with locally harvested fresh truffles that day, or the next. The non-truffle action – tasting Tamar Valley wines, leisurely strolls around Launceston or nearby Cataract Gorge, making a dent in one of the best minibars in the country – isn’t too shabby either. The truffle-themed lushness is part of one of the three luxury experience packages being offered by Stillwater Seven, the seven-room boutique hotel that shares a renovated 1830s flour mill building with Stillwater, one of Tasmania’s best and most reliable restaurants. Stillwater Seven experiences include one that also takes in King Island, staying at Kittawa Lodge, and another called Me Time that’s all about seriously coddled solo travel. Every Day I’m Trufflin’ is a three-night package for those who can’t get enough of Tasmanian produce in general, but with a particular focus on the brilliant black truffles that have become an integral part of the Tasmanian winter dining landscape. If the idea of fresh truffles for breakfast, lunch and dinner appeals, you’ve come to the right package. Even without the little black jewels adding ballast, Stillwater Seven is a unique, compelling place to stay. Tasmanian hoteliers are becoming increasingly skilled at merging atmospheric relics and clever modern fit-outs, and this one by Cumulus Studio combines the mill’s industrial bones – Oregon joists and beams, galvanised iron cladding – with an intimate, upholstered, rabbitwarren-y space that vibes more luxury country house than hotel. Colours lean, dark and moody (blackened timber gets a good workout) are the perfect complement to the constantly changing skies mirrored in the nearby river. The feeling of being coddled is immediate, not least because of the personal greeting from manager and co-owner Chris McNally. Even if you’ve never stepped foot in the joint, you’ll feel like you’re being welcomed back. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Seven’s rooms are spacious and lofty-ceilinged without losing their sense of intimacy and are packed with Tasmanian-made things, from woollen blankets woven at Waverley Mills to chocolates from local makers Pod. The robe you’re lounging in is part of the truffle package, so you can shove it in your bag guilt-free. The highlight is the extensive minibar – pantry really – housed in a cabinet handcrafted in Tasmanian oak by designer Simon Ancher. Open the curved doors and a light goes on, illuminating a Tasmanian-focused cornucopia. The greedier and thirstier among us might squeal. Booze-wise, it’s all about Tasmanian distilleries and includes Lark whisky and delicious Sheep Whey vodka from Hartshorn, alongside bottled cocktails (a collaboration with Hobart’s Taylor & Smith distillery and Dier Makr restaurant), plus an exemplary range of local beer, wine and kombucha. The food offering – truffle chips and Tasmanian biltong, a range of charcuterie, cheese and pickles – includes a small loaf of sourdough from the Stillwater kitchen that’s delivered fresh each day with a pad of butter. Along with the deep bathtub, extremely comfortable bed and Netflix and Spotify on tap, it can make leaving the room a wrench. But there are truffles to consume. The package includes two dinners – one at Stillwater, just a short stroll down the stairs, and one at Black Cow Bistro, a steakhouse in a former butcher shop in central Launceston run by the Stillwater team. Executive chef Craig Will looks after both restaurants and, for the Trufflin’ 140

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PHOTOGRAPHY ANJIE BLAIR (STILLWATER SEVEN SUITE).

Clockwise from left: inside one of Stillwater Seven’s suites; the exterior of Stillwater Seven.

From far left: Stillwater Seven’s deluxe king suite bathroom; breakfast at Stillwater Seven.

package, puts together two menus that centre truffles in different ways. At Stillwater, it’s about pairing truffles with luxury ingredients, with shavings adorning Southern rock lobster with smoked macadamia cream and blinis, an eye-wateringly good combo of truffled angel hair pasta and black lip abalone, or a white chocolate and tonka bean marquise (white chocolate and truffles are great friends). At Black Cow, truffles add a further flavour dimension to some of Tasmania’s best beef, sourced from producers like Robbins Island and Cape Grim, perhaps through a rich and magnificent truffled béarnaise. It all tastes better after seeing truffles in the wild, so part of the package is a pilgrimage to the source. The drive to Tamar Valley Truffles follows the river, through towns like Rosevears and Gravelly Beach that hug its banks and stretches of bushland and pasture populated with vineyards and cattle. Sara Barnes from Experiential Tasmania takes the appointment-only tour and is one of those guides who only tells you the good stuff, leaving plenty of space to pay the landscape the attention it deserves. At the truffle farm, truffière manager Marcus Jessup (his parents planted the inoculated evergreen and deciduous oaks in 1999), shows you around, sometimes with his “highly motivated” truffle dog and explains the joys, science, slog and heartache that is the truffle farmer’s lot. He harvests between 300kg and 500kg of black truffles a year and unlike the dishes truffles grace, truffle farming is not an elegant pastime. It involves time

on hands and knees, digging in the dirt, something you can experience on the tour. The exhaustion of digging up a couple of truffles obviously calls for chardonnay, and Sara makes a mercy dash for nearby Stoney Rise vineyard, where the new cellar door building – a beautiful, sculptural, brick-floored and timberclad number designed (like Stillwater Seven) by Cumulus Studio – makes the most of magnificent views across the vineyard and river. Joe and Lou Holyman make chardonnay, pinot noir, gruner veltliner and trousseau from estate-grown fruit, all of them fresh and elegant somehow capturing the essence of the silvery light in this part of the world. There are snacks to accompany the wine – local charcuterie, French cheese and even an old-school French onion dip – and an outdoor fireplace to stay warm while appreciating the storied Tasmanian fresh air. Your room at Stillwater Seven will be calling by then and this cleverly crafted package understands as much about the luxury of lounging about in beautiful spaces doing nothing as it does about appreciating Tasmania’s finest truffles, wine and produce. Just like truffle shavings on a perfectly poached egg, it’s like luxury on top of luxury. ●

How to book Everyday I’m Trufflin’ packages start at $3500 per couple and are available for a limited time only during the Winter Truffle season. For more details visit stillwater.com.au

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A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list. 1

Happy Happy Foods create delicious plant-based products that are happier for you and happier for the environment. Their premium plant-based milks complement espresso for a smoother-tasting latte. eatdrinkhappyhappy.com

Harvey Norman Enjoy two electric ovens for simultaneous roasting, baking or slow cooking, while an induction cooktop offers five large cooking zones. Classic Induction Freestanding Cooker in Cranberry, RRP $10,394 harveynorman.com.au

Oceania Cruises, the world’s leading culinary- and destination-focused cruise line, has launched Vista, the first of two 1,200-guest ships. The luxury vessel sets sail in 2023, followed by a sister ship in 2025. oceaniacruises.com/ships/vista

Pottery for the Planet Based in Noosa, this small local business has a big sustainable impact on the earth’s future. The goal is to eradicate our single-use culture with beautiful, handmade pottery. potteryfortheplanet.com

Levantine Hill Estate Syrah A silkysmooth, elegant and subtly perfumed rendition of medium-bodied cool-climate shiraz, this wine was awarded Gold at the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards. RRP $80 levantinehill.com.au

Parrot’s classic dry gin is a modern Australian gin created to pay homage to the classic. Dry, distinct and handcrafted in Orange, NSW, with hints of grapefruit, rosebuds and vanilla, it’s truly a gin for all to enjoy. RRP $75 parrotdistillingco.com.au

Coco Republic’s Winter 2021 Collection explores a delicate balance of minimalist and monochromatic shapes, with over 150 additions focusing on clean lines, muted tones met with tribal accents, and sculptural combinations. cocorepublic.com.au

Liebherr wine cabinets provide optimal conditions for the storage of all varieties. Offering up to three temperature zones, charcoal filters and ultra-low vibration compressors, your wine is in safe hands with Liebherr. home.liebherr.com.au

ILVE Design your own ILVE cooker now using ILVE’s Oven Design Configurator. With 60,711 combinations across elements including burners, ovens, range hoods, heat lamps and more, there is an ILVE for you! RRP from $4,999 ilve.com.au

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02 5317 8200 • info@byngstreethotel.com.au 62 Byng Street Orange NSW

W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U

HIDDEN ITALY: Port Douglas, Daintree & the Great Barrier Reef There aren’t many places in the world where you can walk out of one World Heritage Area straight into another one. The Daintree, north of Port Douglas in Far North Queensland, is one such place. Here, you walk out of the Daintree Rainforest (the world’s oldest rainforest) and into the Great Barrier Reef (the planet’s largest living thing). Starting with a night in a four-star hotel in beautiful Port Douglas, we spend four nights in the charming Daintree Ecolodge exploring this extraordinary area, before returning to Port for the last night. This all-inclusive Hidden Italy guided walking includes great walks, excellent accommodation, fine food and good company!

Full details: www.hiddenitaly.com.au/australasia/ TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & ART

ON MISSION BEACH

South Africa’s Premier International Award Winning Gin Range

Now Available Across Australia

stoneflow.com.au Stoneflowgin

Pandanus, sunbirds and sand beautiful accommodation in a lovely beachfront setting under the coconut trees fringing the Coral Sea.

Truffles, caviar, champagne and more

info@sejala.com.au www.sejala.com.au

thetruffleman.com.au thetrufflemanoz

We Clean Ovens ...so you don’t have to!

Our professional oven clean will restore your oven to show room condition We remove the fan and back panel for complete professional clean as well as take the door off and split the glass to remove any streaks. Our solutions are safe, caustic free and bio degrable.

Trophy-winning dairy and non-dairy ice creams. Made using artisan techniques & premium natural ingredients. FRANCHISES AVAILABLE

Our range includes gluten-free, vegan and Kosher.

serendipityicecream.com.au

A carbon-neutral Australian premium producer.

CALL TODAY

1300 683 681 ovenu.com.au

AM 18967/21 Teresa Baker Marlilu 2021 Acrylic on poly cotton 152 x 122cm

TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Before

After

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & WINE

@laboqueriaau

Luxury Holiday Homes, Apartments and Villas Creating exceptional holidays for more than 25 years BOOK DIRECT I SUPPORT AUSTRALIA w w w. e xe c u t i v e r e t r e a t s. c o m . a u

LA BOQUERIA ARTISAN SPANISH CHARCUTERIA

Evoke, Surprise, Delight We are passionate about hand crafting bespoke wine cellars. Our attention to detail and knowledge of building enables us to take on the complex and challenging. Wine cellar component supply Australia wide. 3/3 Torca Terrace Mornington VIC 3931 Phone: +61 3 9775 5544 Mobile: +61 408 994 274 www.cellar-creations.com.au

Our ‘Bosquito’ is a prime example of one of the many exciting and innovative salamis we have produced over the years. Dried Forest Mushrooms, Sherry and Australian Pork, combine perfectly to provide you with one of our tastiest delights. nomadistribution.com.au/retail-stockists nomadistribution.com.au/shop

TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

STYLE HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

Cosy up

STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Hot home buys, frizz-free hair care, winter fashion and curvaceous candles.

Home

TONAL TEXTURES

MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Roll out a patterned rug then layer with jewel tones and contrasting shapes for an interesting and inviting space.

FROM TOP Kennedy ribbed round ottoman in Slate Blue, $680, GlobeWest. Iittala Putki table lamp in Copper, $633, Finnish Design Shop. Large Raawii Strom bowl in Blue, $131, Finnish Design Shop. Avant Gardener Beni M’Rirt rug, $10,200, Tigmi Trading. Frank occasional chair in Garnet Muse, $399, Early Settler. Toulouse sapphire velvet cushion, $170, Le Marc.

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1 Belling Richmond deluxe freestanding cooker in Black, $9098, Harvey Norman. 2 Triiio dining table in Walnut, from $6316, Fred International. 3 Fizi Slab pendant light, $4150, Articolo. 4 Pierre dining chair in Butterscotch, $1345, Coco Republic. 5 La Cornue CornuFé dual fuel range cooker in Pure White, $19,594, Andi-Co Australia. 6 Vitra Rotary tray in Mint, $80, Finnish Design Shop. 7 Oscar bowl Jurassic medium, $2030, Greg Natale. 8 Bernadotte crystal wine glass, $125 for six, Georg Jensen. 9 Figurine bar stool in Black, $1276, Fred International. 10 Morphy Richards Aspect kettle, $169.99, House. 11 Alfredo Saldo salad servers, $141, Finnish Design Shop. 12 Michaël Verheyden Gutai bowls in Brass, $430 each, Ondene. 13 Arabescato Vagli marble slab, $770 per sq m, CDK Stone.

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MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON.

Home

MINTY REFRESH For a cool, calm and contemporary kitchen, soften an edgy marble-andblack palette with a hint of mint.

N PHOTOGRAPHY DAMIEN KOOK FOR COSENTINO.

P I R AT G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Inspired by

Huski Luxury Apartments, Falls Creek, Vic

Cool runnings

Pair fashion with function and stay toasty with these on-trend winter warmers. 6

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1 Bottega Veneta Mini Knot bag in Red, $2534, Farfetch. 2 Nurra coat in Camel, $1795, Max Mara Weekend. 3 Fendi Logo earmuffs, $980, Farfetch. 4 Bogner Chamonix 3 snow boots, $702, Net-a-Porter. 5 Checked suitcase in Navy, $345, July. 6 Erin Snow Peri Stretch ski leggings in Red, $260, Net-a-Porter. 7 Quilted Ski Bomber jacket in White, $874, Polo Ralph Lauren. 8 Chloé Daria Mini Leather-Trimmed Shearling tote, $1970, Net-a-Porter. 9 Clic H gold-plated bracelet, $975, Hermès. 10 Dior and AK Ski snowboard, $13,000, Dior. 11 Monogram snow goggles, POA, Louis Vuitton.

PHOTOGRAPHY PETER BENNETTS (HUSKI APARTMENTS).

Style

White hot You’ll feel as fresh as the driven snow with these luxury travel companions. 2

MERCHANDISING MATTIE CRONAN. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

1 Atomic Punx Jr II 2019 skis, $250, Larry Adler. 2 Calfskin Short boots in White, $2200, Chanel. 3 Belt bag in Triomphe Canvas, $1450, Celine. 4 Essential Cabin S suitcase in White Gloss, $1010, Rimowa. 5 Lunettes sunglasses, $590, Moncler. 6 Garavani Atelier bag 07, $3820, Valentino.

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L I G H T

T O U C H

Thinner and colour-treated hair is more prone to breakage, especially in winter. While there’s no magic ingredient to stop this happening, save your strands from additional stress by switching from a brush to a wide-tooth comb, like Eleven Australia’s Wooden Wide Tooth Comb, $14.95 (1).

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B U I L D

S T R E N G T H

Rather than adding a heavy conditioner to your regimen for added moisture, which can weigh hair down, rake a few drops of treatment oil, like Briogeo’s Don’t Despair Repair Strengthening Treatment, $46 (4), through hair to hydrate and soften strands as and when you need it.

he self-help mindset of change-from-within has hit the hair care aisle in recent years, with the integrity and condition of our manes becoming more important than ever. Happily, this approach is perfect for cooler months, when less moisture in the air and heating can leave hair dry, limp and prone to frizz. In the short-term, less-damaging heat styling tools (hello, Dyson) and shine sprays can mask your hair woes. But longer term, adopting hair care rituals that are as relaxing as they are regenerating means a healthier crown and less styling required. Smoothing a leave-in oil through just-washed mid-lengths and ends, letting it dry naturally while you start your day, is just one of the perks our shift towards the remote office has allowed. To maintain condition, get protective of locks when you are out and about. Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair Urban Moisture Leave-In, $58 (3), can be spritzed on damp or dry hair, adding condition and protecting from environmental stress. Or, accentuate natural waves and strengthen hair with R+Co’s Dreamhouse Cold-Pressed Watermelon Wave Spray, $48 (5), which leaves hair deliciously scented.

G L O W

G E T T E R

Just as a skin highlighter flatteringly bounces light off your face, bring shimmer back to dull locks with a new-generation shine formula. Try Bread Beauty Supply’s Hair-Oil Everyday Gloss, $37 (2), a multi-purpose oil with kakadu plum that gives all curl types a light-reflecting sheen between washes.

WORDS BROOKE LE POER TRENCH. STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Shake up your hair care routine with nourishing products and tools to tame stressed tresses.

GENT E

FRIZZ FIXERS

NTEL E I

Beauty

Kate Somerville Lifting Eye Cream A triple peptide complex relaxes the look of wrinkles, hyaluronic acid plumps and hydrates, while vitamin C brighten and firms under your eyes. $182, Mecca.

Bare Minerals Skin Longevity Long Life Herb Eye Treatment This vegan, plant-powered eye cream strengthens the delicate skin around your eyes as California poppy provides antioxidant protection. $53, Mecca.

GT team favourite

Supremÿa Eyes at Night Tackle wrinkles, dark circles and sagging around your eyes with this light serum that works overnight, the key period for cellular regeneration, to revitalise and restore. $365, Sisley Paris.

STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Jurlique Nutri-Define Supreme Eye Contour Balm Rich and highly concentrated, this antiageing balm dramatically improves the appearance of deep lines, with the addition of alfalfa seed extract to target puffiness. $105, Jurlique.

Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge Eye and Lip Contour Cream Re-energise your eye contour with this velvety formula that firms the upper eyelids, or use above your lips for a smoother, more youthful pout. $265, Sisley Paris.

Aesthetics RX Vital Eye Cream Fragrance-free and easily absorbed, this lightweight cream uses peptides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to reduce the effects of oxidative stress and replenish moisture in aged skin. $89, Aesthetics RX.

Bright eyes Take care of your most sensitive skin with these gentle yet firming formulas.

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Objects of desire

Candles

Left to right: Capitalism is Disappearing candelabra No. 413 in Pistachio, $200, Makers’ Mrkt. MM candle in Grassy, $20 for pair, Makers’ Mrkt. Love in White candle, $169, Creed Perfume. Pillar candle in Cosmic Wand, $62, Blazed Wax. Fountain Brass candle holder in Large, $89, Black Blaze. Column Pillar candle in Honey, $32 for pair, Black Blaze. Cherry Bomb candle in Julianne, $40, Blazed. Luna Small Brass candle, $55, Cocolux Australia. Blobbies Tulum Citrus candle, $99, XRJ Celebrations. Column Brass candle holder, $49, Black Blaze. Volute candle in Sable, $25 for pair, Maison Balzac. Lumière candlestick, $90 for set of 3, XRJ Celebrations. ABS Objects Kandle candle holder in Butter Yellow, $160, Makers’ Mrkt. 154

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Dress up your tablescape or just bask in the glow of these sculptural waxy wonders.

1815 Signature Celebrate craftsmanship, colour and uniqueness with 1815 Signature. A design-led mix and match range created so you can build your own collection – focus on your favourite hue or make a statement with a combination of colours to suit your style.

Available at royaldoulton.com.au and in selected Myer and David Jones stores, nationally.

CHANEL .COM

ALI MACGRAW

IT’S ALL ABOUT SECONDS self-winding manufacture movement Highly resistant ceramic watch. Swiss made. 5-year warranty.