dr f56 thr

Page 1

Owner and expert tips on buying, reviving and running Kawasaki’s littlest triples O Inside bike mechanics’ college O The bikes we own and build O

35 years with an FZ750 O Your problems sorted

JULY 2021 £4.99 ISSUE 129 9 JUNE - 13 JULY

PLUS GUY MARTIN’S PROJECT 300MPH Mad solutions to critical issues on triple-ton ’Busa

OLD AND NEW NAKED BIKES Guide to ’90s retros, new MT-09SP vs Duke 890 R




See page 70 JULY 2021 ISSUE 129

PS WORLD

12

8 NEWS

22

PS readers recall their favourite Yamahas

12 SPECIALS WE LIKE

29 SPECIAL BREW: 350LC

Three diamond builds from around the globe

Hag Hughes’ latest LC build

16 PS MAIL

41 SELECTOR: BIG NAKEDS

Clocks, advice, lookalikes, selfies, and more

Yamaha XJR1200, Kawasaki Zephyr 1100, Honda CB1000 Big 1

18 IN YOUR SHED Top Laverda twin, full-on RGV250 VJ21 too

70 SUBSCRIBE TO PS

How Padgett’s resurrected a Grand Prix bike and made it a roads missile

The most LC of all LCs in all its glory

4 Practical Sportsbikes

The machines that shaped our future

55 BUILD A YZR500

74 POSTER: HAG’S LC

The bikes that moved the game on – big time

50 INFLUENTIAL YAMS

Chance to win a £300 lid. Free to enter

£4 an issue deal is on. Mad if you don’t

YAMAHA GEMS

22 LIFE WITH YAMAHA

New this, new that, old this, old that...

21 WIN!

50

FEATURES

62 YAMAHA TECH They’ve been good to us over the years, looked after us with some smart thinking


76 DUKE 890 v MT-09 SP Are these the fastest bikes ever built for British roads?

82 BMW S1000R Still the best of the supernakeds? Here’s why

86 PROJECT 300 Doing weird stuff to go faster – like adding lots of weight

90 2009 YAMAHA R1

41

Is this the best of all the R1s? Chris reckons so

95 WHEN TZS RULED THE WORLD

55

The story of the most successful race bike ever built, by the men who rode them – and won on them

100 LIVING WITH A TZ Bruce Dunn has been fettling and racing these things for years (and years)

76

Practical Sportsbikes: In truth, about as practical as chocolate camshafts

BUY IT. FIX IT. 106 360º GARAGE

130 ON OUR BENCH

We all learn things in the garage. Here’s one where you learn lots

Old Farmer Chris airs his 996, Adam and Mark Forsyth go racing at Oulton Park, MG gets stuck into the KH1F, Simon Lee nails his CRM-X, and MG fights his FZ750

113 RESTORE A KH250/400 Almost as much fun as H1s and 2s – for half the money

118 WHAT’S THE PROBLEM? They never seem to go away...

120 THE REAL LONG-TERMERS Steve Carbutt and his ultra long-serving FZ750/1000... engine out, engine in...

125 PROJECT ZX990 TURBO Someone, please... make it stop

140 FOR SALE Always something for somebody

144 PROJECT HUNTER Nu-G checks how strong his grip on market prices is... he does OK

113


THE BMW S 1000 R

AWAKEN THE DAREDEVIL

The air is filled with the smell of petrol. An engine revs up. Pure power unfolds. Showtime for the BMW S 1000 R. Dynamic Roadster outside, Superbike DNA inside. The chassis and engine carry the genes of the RR. Ultra agile, ultra precise. 165 hp from 194 kilograms. Even more sophisticated, even more aggressive. For the first time with the optional M package including M colours and M carbon wheels. Ready for the ultimate challenge. #NeverStopChallenging Speak to your local retailer or visit bmw-motorrad.co.uk for more information or to book your test ride.


TITANIUM | STAINLESS STEEL | ALUMINIUM ANTI CORROSION | HI GH STR EN GT H | L IG H TW E IG HT

VISIT OUR WEBSITE AND TRY OUR NEW BIKE FINDER FEATURE TO VIEW KITS FOR YOUR MOTORCYCLE

RACEBOLTUK.COM DESIGNED DEVELOPED AND MANUFACTURED IN THE UK SETTING THE STANDARD GLOBALLY


Write a letter to The PS and if it's Star Letter material you win a full year's subscription to the very same. Aye

Don't get your valves tangled reat magazine, I love the combination of PS with PB, but I have to take issue with comments on the GSX-R1000 engine in a few of the articles over the last few months; your project build in particular has referenced the titanium valves in the bike which were not fitted until the K5 model. The introduction of those valves allowed the rev limit to go up from 12k on earlier models to 13.5k and was a major change to the motor (not mentioned in the latest issue K5 review). The other thing is your guide to wheel alignment checks; it is important that the

G

Lithium beats lead acid I disagree with Ferret’s comment ‘don’t bother’ when it comes to lithium batteries in reply to Eric Watson’s problem (April 2021 issue, page 85). I have a ’97 FireBlade (bought in 2004) that I have modified over the years including fitting a lithium battery in 2012. I had always realised you have to be careful not to overcharge a lithium battery, and for that reason I made my own voltage meter. I replaced the reg/rec with one from Electrex World, did some more research into lithium batteries, and bought one in 2018 that had its own management system and internal over-charging protection circuit. This is a must for motorcycles originally fitted with lead acid batteries. I did two trips round Europe with this battery with no problems but through

You really want to try and build a bigger voltage meter there, Chris. Way too small

16 Practical Sportsbikes

K5 GSX-R w ith 177bhp, Bla de a milder 131b hp

front wheel is checked to ensure it is aligned correctly within the forks/yokes, and not twisted, before checking the rear wheel – this has a major impact on alignment if not correct. I’m sure you guys know this but I think it should have been included in your guide. I have attached a photo of my very own K5 with my highly modified ’98 Blade (previously featured in ‘In Your Shed’ but now with a race prepped ’97 engine with FCR carbs). I use the Blade on road and track – I am not currently brave enough to take the K5 on track as it has 177rear wheel bhp. The Blade has a much

experience I recommend the following (especially for basic lithium batteries): A) On starting up the bike immediately turn on lights to provide a load so that the system voltage doesn’t approach 15v (which would damage a lithium battery). B) Wait a few seconds before turning the engine off to allow the lithium battery to charge up (mine's 13.7V during riding and I let it go to around 14.5V before turning off). C) Doing (B) allows for some parasitic drain before your next ride, although I turn my old alarm off in my garage because I’m paranoid about discharging the battery. Even with no parasitic drain the battery will settle to a lower voltage (13.3V). D) Store the battery in the house over winter, I use a spare lead acid battery for maintenance purposes. E) Do not change your lights to HID or LEDs as now allowed (see PS World, May 2021 issue, page 8) otherwise the system voltage may come close to 15V to damage the battery due to reduced load. F) Ensure your reg/rec is good, test it if in doubt, or replace. Therefore for those of us with a performance bent, there is nothing to worry about in fitting a lithium battery provided it’s a quality item with a battery management system and internal overcharging protection circuit. Chris Williams

more manageable 131bhp on the BSD dyno. Thanks again for a great magazine. I hope that you’ll soon be organising some PSPB events for us to participate in, like trackdays. John Thornley This month’s Star Letter wins a year's subscription to The PS. Next month's too, unless there's a new deal

More clocks please, PS readers Please find attached a pic of my clock I made using a casing off an RD250, hopefully for inclusion in PS Mail. Kev Hollingsworth

Separated at birth... again Is it just me, or have other readers noticed the uncanny similarities between The Fengineer Simon Lee (right) and the late comedian Ronnie Barker? Stuart Hadden


b PSPB social clu

Feet nicely tucked away in some size 20 H A-Stars

Where dark things sleep I may be the 100th person to tell you... but Rocky’s letter about 600s (PS Mail, June 2021) is referring to Hobbits from the Shires – not Hotshots. Hobbits being small enough to fit on one (a 600) – but with big furry feet that might struggle with positive gear changes. Steve O’Hare

Bikes and goings-on from our Facebook group

The millionth. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one, though – MG

Dex Rose Bit of a Back To The ’80s day with my mate Mark Hynes – nice run around Trough of Bowland/Hawes.

Paul Hardy The old girl scrubs up well – 26 years old with 66k miles on the clock.

Where's the practical? What’s happened? I have subscribed to your magazine for many years and it used to be a wealth of practical knowledge about older (’90s and ’00s) bikes. The latest issue is mostly reviews of exotica that are beyond the means of many who are more likely to own and work on more accessible hardware. It took over 80 pages to get to any practical stuff, and then more reviews. Gary Weller

Follow us on instagram: Practical_sportsbikes

Colin McGugan Getting close to getting finished now.

Stephen Wells Cleaned and polished ready for a blast.

Alan ‘Smasher’ Pullinger My 2000 Hayabusa. I am only the second owner from new.

Lars Pearson Me and my mate Pete had a ride-out after Jack Miller’s French MotoGP win. We visited another Aussie race legend, Garry McCoy's cafe at Cooyar.

Tyre test (page 62) was practical wasn’t it, Gary? – MG

Joe Wagstaff The harrowing feeling of hearing a tap snap is only equalled by the joy of managing to successfully extract the bugger.

Martin Buckley My vote for best of the ‘90s. Love these two. Who needs anything newer?

facebook.com/groups/practicalsportsbikes More selfies please, too

Readers may remember Erska’s Here’s a double selfie of me and wife Dewi with Freddie and Kevin. TS400 rescue from a couple of years’ back – MG Erska Suurland

Send your pics, and story to: mark.graham@pspb.co.uk for possible inclusion in the mag, at MG's discretion. If you wish to bribe your way in to this pages, be sure to mail him a tin of surströmming. He loves it, despite the cost to his social life.

Practical Sportsbikes 17


WIN

A SUZUKI PEAKED CAP JIM MOORE – LATEST Many readers have written to tell us they believe they’ve seen former PS editor Jim Moore at various train stations around the UK, although not as a passenger. The first sighting was at London, St Pancras in March, the second at Kettering in May. Further reports then reached us of a large man in a Cordura suit, with a notebook and pencil at Crewe station.

The PS is proud to bring you yet another unmissable competition. It’s true, the WIN! opportunities have been sparse of late, and for that we can only apologise. But rest assured, PS winners never forget that feeling of victory (even though they frequently lose their coveted prizes down the back of the back of the sofa within days of receiving them). This month, we are delighted to offer you, the PS reader, the chance to win a Suzuki Motor Corporation peaked cap. This peaked cap has been designed to bring attention to Suzuki’s sixth triumph in the prestigious premier class of Grand Prix motorcycle racing (now better known as MotoGP) in the year 2020. The peaked cap features the number of the victorious rider Joan Mir (36), the numeral one (because he came first overall), and also the number of years Suzuki have been making things

(100). To win the peaked cap, you must answer the following multiple choice question correctly:Joan Mir employed which Suzuki product to win the 2020 MotoGP World Championship? Was it… A: Ignis GLX VVT 4Grip B: GSX-R750 C: X-90 D: GSX250 TSCC E: Bandit 600 F: RG500 G: GSX-RR H: Grand Vitara I: GSV-R J: Burgman 400 Friends and relatives of Joan Mir are excluded from this competition. Answers via email must reach mark.graham@pspb.co.uk by Friday 25 June 2021 to be eligible. The first correct answer drawn from an electronic peaked cap will be declared the winner. The winner will be notified by email. The peaked cap will then be despatched by post. Good luck to you all.

Concerned about his welfare, we contacted Jim. He was pleased to tell us he’s now found more time to pursue his overriding interest of trainspotting. He sent us this photograph (right) to assure all who asked after him, that he’s seldom been happier, and will continue to pursue motorcycle work alongside his first love of trains. We hope this information has now put many readers’ minds at rest.

Old Bill spy truck nicks crap drivers Just when you thought road ‘policing’ had been left in the hands of speed and numberplate cameras, a ray of hope emerges that terrible roadcraft will no longer go unpunished. The Highways Agency took a muchneeded break from its baffling motorcycle safety campaigns to put the ‘Stealth truck’ on the roads (see page 72 for advice about trying not to break a leg) . This wagon full of coppers videoing motorists doing anything but concentrating on the road has been in action since 2015: 6073 drivers on the phone have been caught (among other offences). And they still managed to catch 1199 people over the speed limit too. About to nab a trucker trying to beat Jim Moore’s Candy Crush world record

10 Practical Sportsbikes



Festooned with all the best bits money can buy – and built well too

Bike Of The Month Suzuki RGV250 VJ21 Owner: Randy Wedge Owned for: seven years So far: big bore, and tuning goodies What’s next: top speed runs

The US of A may well be riddled with Hogs, but there exists a hard core of two-stroke appreciation, and this is a shining example of that tendency his RGV250 VJ21 was bought on Thanksgiving Day 2013 along with my VJ22SP. They had both been sitting in a small shed for about seven years. The previous owner had intended them to be parts bikes for his race bike, but luckily he stopped racing right after he got them. I spent the next seven years slowly collecting parts for the VJ21 whenever I bought parts for some of my other two-strokes from Japanese auction sites. The bike was a complete basket case when I got it, and had very few parts worth parting out after looking at it. The few remaining components from the bike I started with are the frame, top yoke, fuel tank, some bolts, and

Time and energy spent in all the right places (money too). You get back what you put in. This thing should fairly fly too – look out Arkansas

T

Sunlight, yes. Watch it doesn’t cook the paint

VJ22 SP close-ratio ’box and dry clutch...

...plus 38mm Lectrons on Veronesi inlets

the rear caliper… almost everything else came from the parts bin. Those include: a GK73 SP swingarm, RF600 front wheel, VJ22 rear wheel, GSX-R750 calipers, VJ21SP forks and lower fork yoke, Aprilia J208 RS250 crankcases, VJ22 SP close-ratio gear cluster and dry clutch, VJ22 wiring harness and gauges in VJ21 housing, Nitron shock, Tuning Works 300cc big-bore VJ22 cylinders along with billet heads and power valves, NOS crank, Veronesi intakes to mount 38mm Lectron carbs, Zeeltronic ignition, and Dyna coils. All the work was done by me including the new paint. I have only done

50 miles on it so far as it is still cold and snowing on occasions here. I originally got down to starting this project in December 2019 to run on the salt at Bonneville. Obviously, many things changed during 2020, including the direction of my VJ21 SP bitsa. It’s too clean to cover with salt now, but I hope to take it to the Arkansas Mile later this year for top speed runs.

This month’s bike of the month wins a year's subscription to The PS. Next month's too, unless the prize changes


Close your eyes and imagine Franco Sheene warming-up Bazza’s RG in the Silverstone paddock in the summer of 1976...

Practical Sportsbikes 13


we like

Coloured frames and cycle parts don’t often work – but this does. Absolutely standout

BAGUS! 1100 ZEPHYR RACER When it comes to racing retros the Japanese don’t do things by half measures, as this Bagus! (bizarrely that’s Indonesian for ‘best’) 1100

Zephyr proves. Bagus! has a history of modifying Kawasaki Zephyrs of all capacities into serious-spec road and track tools, and this 1100’s got the lot: from Hyperpro forks and shocks, Galespeed wheels, Brembo brakes, Over Racing swingarm, to

a massively breathed-on motor running JE high-comp pistons, 39mm FCRs, flowed and ported head, and a full inhouse titanium system. Having been through the Bagus! workshop there’s now nothing retro about this Zephyr’s performance.

GRAVES MOTORSPORTS YAMAHA R71 We love an R71 here at The PS, but this Graves Motorsports built beauty has to be our new favourite hybrid Yam. Graves are a serious player in AMA racing and they created this 1000cc homologation special by modifying the R7 frame to accept a Formula Extreme-spec R1 motor which breathes through 41mm flatslides, and has a full titanium Akrapovic system. Other mods include a larger capacity radiator, race slipper clutch, race-spec Brembos and Öhlins, plus Marchesini wheels. The blue signature Graves paint is the finishing touch. 14 Practical Sportsbikes

Kinda liking the metallic plum frame with the blue too


TITANIUM | STAINLESS STEEL | ALUMINIUM ANTI CORROSION | HI GH STR EN GT H | L IG H TW E IG HT

VISIT OUR WEBSITE AND TRY OUR NEW BIKE FINDER FEATURE TO VIEW KITS FOR YOUR MOTORCYCLE

RACEBOLTUK.COM DESIGNED DEVELOPED AND MANUFACTURED IN THE UK SETTING THE STANDARD GLOBALLY


Write a letter to The PS and if it's Star Letter material you win a full year's subscription to the very same. Aye

Don't get your valves tangled reat magazine, I love the combination of PS with PB, but I have to take issue with comments on the GSX-R1000 engine in a few of the articles over the last few months; your project build in particular has referenced the titanium valves in the bike which were not fitted until the K5 model. The introduction of those valves allowed the rev limit to go up from 12k on earlier models to 13.5k and was a major change to the motor (not mentioned in the latest issue K5 review). The other thing is your guide to wheel alignment checks; it is important that the

G

Lithium beats lead acid I disagree with Ferret’s comment ‘don’t bother’ when it comes to lithium batteries in reply to Eric Watson’s problem (April 2021 issue, page 85). I have a ’97 FireBlade (bought in 2004) that I have modified over the years including fitting a lithium battery in 2012. I had always realised you have to be careful not to overcharge a lithium battery, and for that reason I made my own voltage meter. I replaced the reg/rec with one from Electrex World, did some more research into lithium batteries, and bought one in 2018 that had its own management system and internal over-charging protection circuit. This is a must for motorcycles originally fitted with lead acid batteries. I did two trips round Europe with this battery with no problems but through

You really want to try and build a bigger voltage meter there, Chris. Way too small

16 Practical Sportsbikes

K5 GSX-R w ith 177bhp, Bla de a milder 131b hp

front wheel is checked to ensure it is aligned correctly within the forks/yokes, and not twisted, before checking the rear wheel – this has a major impact on alignment if not correct. I’m sure you guys know this but I think it should have been included in your guide. I have attached a photo of my very own K5 with my highly modified ’98 Blade (previously featured in ‘In Your Shed’ but now with a race prepped ’97 engine with FCR carbs). I use the Blade on road and track – I am not currently brave enough to take the K5 on track as it has 177rear wheel bhp. The Blade has a much

experience I recommend the following (especially for basic lithium batteries): A) On starting up the bike immediately turn on lights to provide a load so that the system voltage doesn’t approach 15v (which would damage a lithium battery). B) Wait a few seconds before turning the engine off to allow the lithium battery to charge up (mine's 13.7V during riding and I let it go to around 14.5V before turning off). C) Doing (B) allows for some parasitic drain before your next ride, although I turn my old alarm off in my garage because I’m paranoid about discharging the battery. Even with no parasitic drain the battery will settle to a lower voltage (13.3V). D) Store the battery in the house over winter, I use a spare lead acid battery for maintenance purposes. E) Do not change your lights to HID or LEDs as now allowed (see PS World, May 2021 issue, page 8) otherwise the system voltage may come close to 15V to damage the battery due to reduced load. F) Ensure your reg/rec is good, test it if in doubt, or replace. Therefore for those of us with a performance bent, there is nothing to worry about in fitting a lithium battery provided it’s a quality item with a battery management system and internal overcharging protection circuit. Chris Williams

more manageable 131bhp on the BSD dyno. Thanks again for a great magazine. I hope that you’ll soon be organising some PSPB events for us to participate in, like trackdays. John Thornley This month’s Star Letter wins a year's subscription to The PS. Next month's too, unless there's a new deal

More clocks please, PS readers Please find attached a pic of my clock I made using a casing off an RD250, hopefully for inclusion in PS Mail. Kev Hollingsworth

Separated at birth... again Is it just me, or have other readers noticed the uncanny similarities between The Fengineer Simon Lee (right) and the late comedian Ronnie Barker? Stuart Hadden


b PSPB social clu

Feet nicely tucked away in some size 20 H A-Stars

Where dark things sleep I may be the 100th person to tell you... but Rocky’s letter about 600s (PS Mail, June 2021) is referring to Hobbits from the Shires – not Hotshots. Hobbits being small enough to fit on one (a 600) – but with big furry feet that might struggle with positive gear changes. Steve O’Hare

Bikes and goings-on from our Facebook group

The millionth. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one, though – MG

Dex Rose Bit of a Back To The ’80s day with my mate Mark Hynes – nice run around Trough of Bowland/Hawes.

Paul Hardy The old girl scrubs up well – 26 years old with 66k miles on the clock.

Where's the practical? What’s happened? I have subscribed to your magazine for many years and it used to be a wealth of practical knowledge about older (’90s and ’00s) bikes. The latest issue is mostly reviews of exotica that are beyond the means of many who are more likely to own and work on more accessible hardware. It took over 80 pages to get to any practical stuff, and then more reviews. Gary Weller

Follow us on instagram: Practical_sportsbikes

Colin McGugan Getting close to getting finished now.

Stephen Wells Cleaned and polished ready for a blast.

Alan ‘Smasher’ Pullinger My 2000 Hayabusa. I am only the second owner from new.

Lars Pearson Me and my mate Pete had a ride-out after Jack Miller’s French MotoGP win. We visited another Aussie race legend, Garry McCoy's cafe at Cooyar.

Tyre test (page 62) was practical wasn’t it, Gary? – MG

Joe Wagstaff The harrowing feeling of hearing a tap snap is only equalled by the joy of managing to successfully extract the bugger.

Martin Buckley My vote for best of the ‘90s. Love these two. Who needs anything newer?

facebook.com/groups/practicalsportsbikes More selfies please, too

Readers may remember Erska’s Here’s a double selfie of me and wife Dewi with Freddie and Kevin. TS400 rescue from a couple of years’ back – MG Erska Suurland

Send your pics, and story to: mark.graham@pspb.co.uk for possible inclusion in the mag, at MG's discretion. If you wish to bribe your way in to this pages, be sure to mail him a tin of surströmming. He loves it, despite the cost to his social life.

Practical Sportsbikes 17


YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

H

ag Hughes has a theory about life. “Up until you’re in your forties everything is about looking forward to the new,” he says, stating what you might say is the bleedin’ obvious. “But from your forties onwards you start to look back at the things that shaped the most exciting times of your life. That’s why guys my age are buying LCs again and getting BMXs for our kids, and also why old punk and rock bands are making comebacks.” He’s got a point, and it explains why Hag’s just finished building a Yamaha 350LC special 35 years after putting together his first. It’s also fitting that this latest build is a homage to his original. You may remember Hag’s maiden LC, especially if you read Performance Bikes during the mid-’80s. He and fellow Elsie hell-raiser Jason Emmett reset the standard for trick, fast-as-fook RD-LCs when their nearidentical Yams graced the Readers Specials spread of PB’s August ’86 issue. LC specials were ten-a-penny back then, but Hag and Jay’s beautifully brutal black-and-white 350s were miles ahead of their contemporaries in terms of style, attitude and performance. “We’ve both got past 500LCs, and they’ve been trying,” boasted Hag in the article. “And a GS1000 on the M4. I’ve seen 145 on the clock past a GSX-R750.” Wild claims by

Clean as a whistle

30 Practical Sportsbikes

any standard. Interviewer Rupert Paul sensed hyperbole, but for most PB readers it didn’t matter because Hag and Jay’s LCs were so much better than anything they’d seen previously – and they’re also the ones they still remember today. Quite right too. Blown engines, scored barrels, spectacular crashes and frequent brushes with the law were part of everyday life for Hag back in the ’80s. His first road bike (an RD125LC; what else?) cost him his place in the family home and set him on the path to becoming one of the country’s most infamous LC Johnnies, as well as a regular for lunacy at Chelsea Bridge and Boxhill. “My old man was a bit of hard case, and mega wealthy, so we lived in a big house. When I was 17 I turned up on a 125LC and he said either the bike goes or I’d have to. Obviously, I chose the bike. Next thing I know he’s lost it, sprinted upstairs to my room and started chucking all my stuff over the balcony – told you it was a big house – onto the driveway. That’s when I left and moved in with Jason. “Jay’s parents had divorced, and his old man had moved in with his girlfriend, so we were left with a big four-bed detached house all to ourselves. Four other mates, also big

Ignore those ugly bastards and check the radical clip-ons


Festooned with all the best bits money can buy – and built well too

Bike Of The Month Suzuki RGV250 VJ21 Owner: Randy Wedge Owned for: seven years So far: big bore, and tuning goodies What’s next: top speed runs

The US of A may well be riddled with Hogs, but there exists a hard core of two-stroke appreciation, and this is a shining example of that tendency his RGV250 VJ21 was bought on Thanksgiving Day 2013 along with my VJ22SP. They had both been sitting in a small shed for about seven years. The previous owner had intended them to be parts bikes for his race bike, but luckily he stopped racing right after he got them. I spent the next seven years slowly collecting parts for the VJ21 whenever I bought parts for some of my other two-strokes from Japanese auction sites. The bike was a complete basket case when I got it, and had very few parts worth parting out after looking at it. The few remaining components from the bike I started with are the frame, top yoke, fuel tank, some bolts, and

Time and energy spent in all the right places (money too). You get back what you put in. This thing should fairly fly too – look out Arkansas

T

Sunlight, yes. Watch it doesn’t cook the paint

VJ22 SP close-ratio ’box and dry clutch...

...plus 38mm Lectrons on Veronesi inlets

the rear caliper… almost everything else came from the parts bin. Those include: a GK73 SP swingarm, RF600 front wheel, VJ22 rear wheel, GSX-R750 calipers, VJ21SP forks and lower fork yoke, Aprilia J208 RS250 crankcases, VJ22 SP close-ratio gear cluster and dry clutch, VJ22 wiring harness and gauges in VJ21 housing, Nitron shock, Tuning Works 300cc big-bore VJ22 cylinders along with billet heads and power valves, NOS crank, Veronesi intakes to mount 38mm Lectron carbs, Zeeltronic ignition, and Dyna coils. All the work was done by me including the new paint. I have only done

50 miles on it so far as it is still cold and snowing on occasions here. I originally got down to starting this project in December 2019 to run on the salt at Bonneville. Obviously, many things changed during 2020, including the direction of my VJ21 SP bitsa. It’s too clean to cover with salt now, but I hope to take it to the Arkansas Mile later this year for top speed runs.

This month’s bike of the month wins a year's subscription to The PS. Next month's too, unless the prize changes


Moto Martin CBX1000 Owner: David Carroll Owned for: four years So far: built from frame up What’s next: Iron Man fairing eorges Martin came out of retirement in 2017 specially to build the frame for my CBX project. It’s fitted with a Ducati S4R single-sided swingarm, Ducati 1200 Multistrada Pikes Peak front forks, and the Ducati theme continues with a 748 seat unit with LED rear lights and built-in indicators. The wheels are Marchesini. And Brembo brakes all round stop it. The engine has been treated to an 1150cc big bore kit and the six carbs were rebuilt and fitted with bellmouths. The frame is in Honda Candy Glory Red and the rest of the bodywork is gold. The paintwork was done by Steve at Coker & Sons in Edenbridge, who also resprayed another CBX special I have. I was going for an Iron Man theme and will hopefully be replacing the fairing with an Iron Man version when Steve gets around to painting it. Georges Martin came to the Stafford Classic Bike show in April 2017 and saw the finished bike on the CBX Riders Club stand. He liked it enough to autograph it for me. I like to use my bikes. The other CBX I own has been ridden all over Europe.

G

Suzuki GS1000 Owner: Keith Parry Owned for: seven years So far: serious weight loss What’s next: softer springs his is my 1980 Suzuki GS1000. It has 122bhp at the wheel, makes over 80lb.ft of torque, and weighs in at just 170kg. I paid £500 for the bike and it looked as though it had come out of a swamp. I stripped it all down and got rid of all the brackets I knew I didn’t want, and also added some bracing. I made the seat unit from ally sheet bent between two bits of flat bar in my vice. I’m a welder by trade. A mate had the tank made for his Spondon but wasn’t happy with it so I ended up modifying it to fit my GS. It got a bit battered lying around, and only holds two gallons. Forks are Bandit 1200 and the top yoke is an LSL a mate had kicking about. The swingarm is from a GSX-R750 Slingshot. I removed the monoshock linkage brackets and added twinshock lugs. Wheels are SV650 with PFM cast iron discs and Spondon calipers up front. The engine has a 1085cc big-bore, a flowed and ported cylinder head, and Joy reprofiled camshafts. Ignition is by Dyna. Carbs are 33mm Keihin roundslides. Basically it’s built to endurance race spec. It pulls like crazy from low down, even next to new bikes like my modern Katana. I eventually settled on a Hindle exhaust over a Yoshi after giving the bike some time on the dyno.

T

20 Practical Sportsbikes

Signed by Georges Martin, now all it needs is Iron Man’s scribble. Perhaps Robert Downey Jnr. will be at Stafford

Dramatic backdrop for a pretty dramatic machine. Looks great: raw and spare (the GS)


COMPETITION

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Its quick-release visor is ready to accept tearoffs, and comes with a Pinlock Anti-fog System as standard. The Challenger has a flip-down internal sun visor too. Dynamic Flow-through Ventilation keeps the wearer cool and comfortable, the hypoallergenic liner is removable and washable, and Emergency Release System cheek pads are fitted as standard. As you’d expect, it’s both ACU Gold and ECE 22.05 certified for track and road use. Visit www.ls2helmets.com for details.

Simply visit: www.practicalsportsbikesmag.co.uk/winLS2gear21 and submit your details to be in with a chance of winning. Good luck! TERMS AND CONDITIONS: The prize draw closes at midnight on August 31, 2021. This competition is open to UK residents aged 16 and over. There is one prize consisting of one LS2 Challenger Carbon Helmet. The winner must choose from SIZES XXS – 3XL and from colours Solid Carbon, Blue Carbon Red, Matt Carbon Blue, Matt Carbon Hi Viz Yellow. The winner will be the first person drawn at random from all valid entries after the closing date, and notified by email within 10 days of the competition closing. The winner has 30 days to respond before an alternative winner is chosen. This prize may be offered in a limited number of other promotions. No purchase is necessary. To enter for free visit www.practicalsportsbikesmag.co.uk/winLS2gear21 Full terms and conditions can be found at www.bauerlegal.co.uk/competition-terms.html


Shut your eyes and you can hear them...

WHAM

BAM THANK YOU YAM 22 Practical Sportsbikes

The world’s biggest piano manufacturer also happens to dabble in motorcycles. And the Yamaha name is music to the ears of countless riders. Here are a few ho among us hasn’t owned a Yamaha? Whether it be a Fizzy in the 1970s or an R1 in the 1990s, there was usually a Yamaha to meet out needs whatever stage we were at in our riding careers. More than that, certain models became cultural icons even when they were new. From the 1970s air-cooled RDs, the LC series that were the must-have strokers of the 1980s, the EXUPs, the TZRs, TDRs, YZFs and more, Yamaha always offered bikes for the riders we were, or would like to become. Did we choose the bikes? Or did the bikes choose us? That strong Yamaha character in those machines made a huge number of us loyal to the brand. And if we had a Yamaha then we often have one now – that is its own affirmation of how special Yamahas were, and are, to a great many of us.


Thank you, Yam

Plus almost matching Ox Blood DMs

My first bike was a 1975 Fizzy I got in 1982. I saved and saved to be able to buy her, got her home and was so proud showing her to my mates. Then I kicked her over and the kickstart fell off. Had lots of fun on her in my first year as a biker. I also used to ride the Fizzy to my first job. Many a morning I would be late as she would conk out halfway there for no apparent reason, but she always seemed to get me home OK – and to the pub at the weekend. Mark Sutton

This is me on my RD250E, reg no LVY 902T, purchased brand new from Dowsons of Scarborough for the sum of £735 in 1978. The bike came with spoked wheels; alloys were 35 quid extra and I just couldn’t afford them at the time, Later I was glad it had them as it made it that bit different to everyone else’s. I don’t remember ever seeing another 250E model with wire wheels at the time. Had to sell it a year later as I couldn’t afford the insurance when it was due which, due to having a claim,

had jumped from £180 to £350. However, along with my Fizzy, it instilled a life-long love of twostrokes; I currently ride an RD350LC, and I have a Fizzy and an RD250F awaiting restoration. Kev Hollingsworth

This is my partner Alison Harding in 2013 with her 1990 RXS100 which she named Bob. She loved to ride it, a straightforward and simple bike, hence the name Bob. Between us we converted him to 12V electrics, made an expansion chamber for him (I make expansion chambers for TZRs and LCs), and Alison even performed a little engine tuning work. On one occasion when riding up a steep hill, the bike hit the powerband and pulled an accidental wheelie. Sadly Bob was sold when she passed her test, hopefully to give someone else some joy. Martin Johnson

The clue’s in the sign, Jon. 30mph, yeah?

Here is a pic of me in 1984 on my new YPVS when I was 18 years old. Such an incredible bike. I loved it but lost my licence within a year because I built up so many points for speeding. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Jon Clifford

Bob the RXS, pre-spannie. Alison with (a) Bob

That’s a dealer-applied front L-plate if ever we saw one. Bet that didn’t last long

This is me aged 16 on my RD400D brandnew in 1978 for £706. I part-exchanged a Garelli Tiger Cross for it and the dealer wouldn’t register the Yam until I had passed my test. I did so 10 days after my 17th birthday. This is me outside my parents’ house in York. My riding gear was the obligatory white trainers and a Levis jacket. I had it for less than a year before trading it in for a Suzuki GS750. I always had a soft spot for the Yamaha though, and bought another 1978 RD400D in 2010. I’ve now owned it for 11 years – and it’s a keeper. Chris Johnson

Practical Sportsbikes 23


Thank you, Yam

£100. Yes, one hundred pounds

It must be love

Get that bloody Golf out of the way

I bought my 1998 TDR 250 in 2000 as a 21st birthday present to myself. It was a fairly early 1988 model that had been imported by a bike shop in Leeds. It wasn’t the blue-andyellow I’d really wanted. But with an asking price of £1200 with registration and a year’s MoT, I decided I could live with it. The bike was fitted with TZR250 wheels and gearing, which I thought would give me better tyre choice, and make things a bit more interesting on the road. I kept the bike for four or five years, commuting on it regularly for the first couple of years (a round trip of over 50 miles) until bigger capacity bikes eventually took over. But I kept it at the back of the shed, always meaning to get it back on the road. I had a lot of good times and adventures on it, like electing to ride it from Leeds back to Birmingham when I bought it instead of wanting to pay extra for the guy to deliver it, a hairy 100mph ride on an unfamiliar bike with questionable tyres wasn’t the wisest move. Breakdowns, flat tyres at 2am after a nightshift and having to stop at every garage on the way from Coventry to Birmingham to top up the air in the tyres, and even an MoT tester ripping the small screen off the front fairing while trying to examine the bike didn’t make me like it any less. Stuart Bannerman

24 Practical Sportsbikes

This is me with my 1977 RD400D in 1980. Marzocchi shocks, Boyesen reeds, and a nose-cone fairing by Mike Nelthorpe of HQ Fibre Products. A true wheelie machine that was great on the backroads,and blew plumes of blue smoke out everywhere. Phil Carter

My old RD400. Two odd tyres, who cared back in the day? Jeans, a pair of Docs and no speed limit. The bike cost me £100 and had loads of piston slap. I had it rebored and it was one hell of a screamer. Phil Russco

Snow, rain, shine – never missed a beat

This was my FZR600 in the cold spring of April 2012. I can’t remember the year of the bike but I had it for about six years. It was my only source of transport so I rode it all year round. It started first time every time. I ended up part-exchanging it for an Aprilia RSV which, although a nice bike when it worked, wasn’t the FZR. I really miss messing around on it. Lee Scott Brook

My first bike was an RD125DX, followed by an RD250 with 350 barrels, then the obligatory LC. Mark Hynes


No one is ever safe from an IT465

He had some IT issues

I owned a 2001 XJR1300SP for a couple of years from 2005. A ‘real’ motorbike, it kind of reminded me of riding a big V8 engined automatic car – it moved on a tidal wave of torque. The XJR was a real muscle bike, and the creamy torque of the big air-cooled lump made the big Yam easy to ride. However for some reason the fire did not burn in quite the way I thought it might, and I sold the beast after only 18 months. Now I find myself missing that smooth effortless performance. I rode a GSX1400 a couple of years later. I much preferred the big Yam. Anthony Donnelly

While some may cherish their memories of previously owned Yamahas like LCs and FZRs, my experience with one Yamaha that I bought was a mixture of giddy excitement and sweaty fear. In the early 1980s I bought an IT465 on an impulse. It was advertised in the weekly Auto Trader, a bit like eBay today but without the pitfall of drunken Buy It Now purchases. So, after ringing the guy in some village in Leicestershire, a few of us went by car to look at it. I didn’t think anything of it when the guy asked for the full £800 in his hand before he’d let me take it round a field next to his house. I did think it odd when he suggested that I pull away in second gear though. I thought he was hiding a dodgy first gear so after a few laps around the field, I tried first which just meant more braap, braap wheelspin in a soggy field. First gear and all four other gears worked, so I bought it. The first inkling that I was out of my depth on the bike was the first traffic light stop. With my excitable buddies in the Ford Escort alongside me egging me on for a drag race, I stomped on first gear, lights turned green, let the clutch out, then sky, sky and more sky. Second gear, more sky. By third gear, I panicked and closed the throttle and short shifted to fifth. That was my introduction to Yamaha’s IT465. The rest of the ride home to Peterborough was uneventful because I rode it like the wuss that I was. In the short time that I owned the IT, it had thrown off three of my friends. One lasted all of two seconds in a pub car park after

ignoring my advice to not blip the throttle, and to pull away in second gear. I almost also became a notch on the IT’s bedpost when commuting to work one evening on night shift, late as usual, I gassed it in fifth to overtake a car along the parkway. Just as I was passing the car, a very small dip and a crest on the road lifted the front wheel and it floated along for what seemed like ages. Luckily it was on a straight bit. It probably impressed the car driver but it was a warning for me. This bike is only waiting for you to get complacent and it will shave skin quicker and cleaner than a jamón ibérico slicer. I can proudly say the IT never got me, because I sold it before I got too comfortable. It had that braap, thomp, thomp sound to it on tickover that entices you to be stupid, and of course, you are. You only need two pictures of the IT465. It’s either parked-up standing still, or jumping around like a Tasmanian Devil during mating season. Would I have one again? Probably not at the prices they’re asking for one, and also, I’m sure, the IT is still waiting for me as the one that got away. Mark Porter

Do not approach the IT465. Just let it be

Practical Sportsbikes 25


Thank you, Yam

Reality as good as the dream – when does that happen?

I passed my bike test in 1977 at the age of 17 just 10 days after my birthday. I immediately sold my Fantic Caballero and went straight out and bought a year-old 1976 Yamaha RD350. The need for speed was overpowering. Andy Gammans

I part-exchanged an RD250 for this 1984 Yamaha RD125LC. The Marlboro theme extended from the bike to my helmet. Someone stole the carb while I was playing football so I replaced it with one from a 250 and fitted some Boyesen reeds. Gaz Lambton

As a young lad in the mid-’90s I dreamed about owning a black-and-red Yamaha DT50MX. An older lad at school owned one, and I had my heart set on getting the same bike. When I finally turned 16, in November 1996, I ended up buying myself a white Suzuki TS50X. I absolutely loved the Suzuki TS50X, but I never did get my black-and-red Yamaha DT50MX. Fast forward 24 years to 2020 and I stumbled across a really nice, original looking, black-and-red Yamaha DT50MX for sale; it was close by and the price was reasonable. I quickly called the seller to make a deal, borrowed a friend’s van, and drove over

to pick up the bike. When I saw the bike in real life it brought back all those old memories and it was identical to the bike I had lusted after all those years ago. I’ve had a number of bikes over the years but this was the one I’d always wanted and it felt amazing to finally have my own black-and-red DT50MX. It now sits proudly alongside two of its trail bike competitors of the era, a Kawasaki AE50 (an awesome machine) and a Suzuki TS50X (I couldn’t resist buying myself another white Suzuki TS50X). It may not be the quickest, but it puts a smile on my face every time I take it out for a spin. Luke Gorman

RD200 – one of the best little Yams of all

In 1982 I saved up my paper-round money and bought this 1980 Yamaha RD50M just before my 16th birthday. It cost me £275. I swapped it for a 1977 Yamaha FS1-E with tons of spares because it was faster. Wish I’d kept that lot. Kevin Griffiths

That’s the spirit

My RD400F back in the 1980s. Jim Croft

26 Practical Sportsbikes

My RD200DX. Loved that bike. Pete Ashcroft




IN ASSOCIATION WITH

YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

SAME AGAIN BUT

DIFFERENT

Hag Hughes’ first LC special was standout in 1986. He’s built an almost exact replica for year 2021 (with age concessions). And still, it’s a beauty Words: Jim Moore | Pictures: Jason Critchell

Right first time. Right second time. Don’t mess

Practical Sportsbikes 29


YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

H

ag Hughes has a theory about life. “Up until you’re in your forties everything is about looking forward to the new,” he says, stating what you might say is the bleedin’ obvious. “But from your forties onwards you start to look back at the things that shaped the most exciting times of your life. That’s why guys my age are buying LCs again and getting BMXs for our kids, and also why old punk and rock bands are making comebacks.” He’s got a point, and it explains why Hag’s just finished building a Yamaha 350LC special 35 years after putting together his first. It’s also fitting that this latest build is a homage to his original. You may remember Hag’s maiden LC, especially if you read Performance Bikes during the mid-’80s. He and fellow Elsie hell-raiser Jason Emmett reset the standard for trick, fast-as-fook RD-LCs when their nearidentical Yams graced the Readers Specials spread of PB’s August ’86 issue. LC specials were ten-a-penny back then, but Hag and Jay’s beautifully brutal black-and-white 350s were miles ahead of their contemporaries in terms of style, attitude and performance. “We’ve both got past 500LCs, and they’ve been trying,” boasted Hag in the article. “And a GS1000 on the M4. I’ve seen 145 on the clock past a GSX-R750.” Wild claims by

Clean as a whistle

30 Practical Sportsbikes

any standard. Interviewer Rupert Paul sensed hyperbole, but for most PB readers it didn’t matter because Hag and Jay’s LCs were so much better than anything they’d seen previously – and they’re also the ones they still remember today. Quite right too. Blown engines, scored barrels, spectacular crashes and frequent brushes with the law were part of everyday life for Hag back in the ’80s. His first road bike (an RD125LC; what else?) cost him his place in the family home and set him on the path to becoming one of the country’s most infamous LC Johnnies, as well as a regular for lunacy at Chelsea Bridge and Boxhill. “My old man was a bit of hard case, and mega wealthy, so we lived in a big house. When I was 17 I turned up on a 125LC and he said either the bike goes or I’d have to. Obviously, I chose the bike. Next thing I know he’s lost it, sprinted upstairs to my room and started chucking all my stuff over the balcony – told you it was a big house – onto the driveway. That’s when I left and moved in with Jason. “Jay’s parents had divorced, and his old man had moved in with his girlfriend, so we were left with a big four-bed detached house all to ourselves. Four other mates, also big

Ignore those ugly bastards and check the radical clip-ons


Left to right: Brush Script never gets old. FZR600 calipers make a difference. More comfortable clock protector ’bars. YPVS swingarm

Practical Sportsbikes 31


Brands Hatch Racing sticker because ‘They is from Kent’. Much like Londoners, but with slightly less jellied eels consumption

1

You can’t whack a bit of gold on a motorbike. Not too much, just enough usually does the job (note factory Jubilee Clips on bellmouths)

2

1

The ‘graphics package’ (as it might be called today) is just so spot-on still. Always was

3

Those 32mm forks always looked spindly, but did the job. Nothing changes

4

2

SPECIFICATION YAMAHA RD350LC ENGINE

3

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

4

352.8cc liquidcooled, reed-valve, two-stroke parallel-twin on second oversize (64.5 x 54mm) 6.2:1 compression ratio, 2x 34mm Mikuni Power Jet CHASSIS Stock LC steel cradle with 32mm telescopic forks, non adj. rear Monocross monoshock (350F1), YSS shock, adj. preload, 2 x 260mm discs, 2-pot calipers (1989 FZR600) Rear brake, 260mm disc, 1-pot caliper (350F2) Wheels cast aluminium, 6-spoke (350F2)

into LCs, moved in and before long we’d turned that house into an LC factory – the garage was full of them in various states of repair, tune and modification.We had more parts than Stan Stephens! There were half a dozen bikes there at any time, none of them standard.” That goes without saying. Hag doesn’t mince his words when explaining the appeal to him and his mates of Yamaha’s liquid-cooled twins. “I’d got really into acid, and we were all getting pissed at the time – I was a punk – and LCs were the thing we did when we weren’t tripping or drinking that would give us the same buzz.” The tale about seeing 145mph on the clock while passing a GSX-R750 is starting to make more sense… The pair’s black-and-white LCs were originally intended to run Meadspeed single seat units. Hag even sketched up how they would look, but in the end they chose to stay simple yet unique, with one personal influence shaping the aesthetic more than any other: Hag’s love of underground punk band Subhumans. The band’s black-andwhite album artwork inspired the monochrome paint scheme. “They had an album ‘The Day The Country Died’ and the last track ‘Black and White’ was the best on the LP,” explains Hag, who points out the ‘Subhumans’ logo on the tail light lens of his latest LC. “Fittingly, they rereleased a T-shirt of the album cover in 2020 during Covid calling it ‘The Year The Country Died’. “Subhumans are touring again, so it all ties in with what I was saying about life. I’ve had loads of bikes over the years. I’m now on bike 97 – and I’ve had all the latest sportsbikes, countless ’Blades, and even the odd ex-MotoGP CRT bike for trackdays, but the thought of building an LC again had been there for a while so in the end I went ahead and did it.” One image from that ’86 Readers Special spread stuck in my mind, and that was Hag’s impossibly small number plate. This bike’s plate is less daring in its dimensions. Any plans for a replica of the old one? “Ha, that plate,” he laughs. “I got pulled over for speeding one time. The copper wasn’t too happy because I was tramping on a bit. He was looking around the bike, then goes ‘and that’s illegal as well’ pointing at the plate. But as he pointed at it, he prodded it and it snapped. He knew he’d screwed up because he then looked at me and said, ‘I’ll let you off speeding if you don’t tell anyone I broke your bike’. I got lucky.” You’ll have worked out by now that Hag likes to fight against the system; toeing the


YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

line isn’t for him – it’s not in his nature, so even building this bike upset a few folk, especially in the LC Club. And that, of course, was all part of the plan. “No one had a standard LC back in the day, no one,” he says, fighting back his contempt for those who insist all restorations must now be done to OE spec. “I bought a brand new 350F1 from Frontiers Motorcycles. Before I’d even sat on it, I went next door to the DIY store and bought a hacksaw so that I could cut off the rear mudguard. I was too embarrassed to be seen on a completely stock LC, so part of the motivation for this build was to piss off the green passivate brigade who insist on everything being as ‘Yamaha intended’.”

With that in mind, Hag couldn’t have chosen a more perfect donor bike for the build – a one owner from new 4LO (Hag’s original was a converted 4L1 250), still standard other than a poorly executed paintjob that just happened to be a replica of his old LC. “It was a barn find – literally,” says Hag of the bike. “It’d been sat in his barn in a village just outside Belfast for 30 years. He’d painted it – badly – to mimic my old bike; he even had a copy of the August ’86 PB on the kitchen table when I turned up. He thought I was winding him up until he compared the old picture of me in the mag. “Because it was a standard, original 350 it made it all the more pleasurable taking an

angle grinder to it. That was a big ‘f••k you’ from me to all those who think LCs should be completely original; many of ’em didn’t even have LCs the first time around. There was one twat trying to tell me what I should and shouldn’t be doing to an LC; I checked his date of birth and he wasn’t even born until 1992…” And although the link between Hag’s first LC and his latest build is obvious, it’s not simply a copy. “I wanted it to be what we would have built back in ’86-’87 had we used the best parts available, hence the 350F swingarm and rear suspension, F2 wheels and brakes. Back then I was 19 and just didn’t have the cash to take it that far – money went on new pistons, barrels, beer and acid!”

First incarnation did away with the sidestand (gets in the way of the gearshift). But Hag’s old now. He’s 83, you know. And it shows Practical Sportsbikes 33


Engine is almost stock. Those days of weekly rebuilds are a thing of the past now

Ironically, Hag hasn’t gone all-out with the motor second time around. The bike had been treated to a rebore and fresh pistons not long before it was laid up in the barn so, although Hag’s been right through the motor from top to bottom, he’s only replaced bearings, gaskets and seals. Other than a skimmed head and second oversize pistons, which take capacity to 352.8cc, the engine is as standard as the day it left the Yamaha factory. But doesn’t that defeat the object of an LC special? “Back then we were all about seeing how fast we could make them go. Pete Lindemere used to tune our engines.We were like a walking advert for him. Mine was to F2 spec and somehow Jason ended up with a proddie tune, so mine was faster but it was always blowing up.We both ran Harpowa reeds, boost bottles and Swarbrick pipes. Jay’s had standard carbs with a Ledar kit – mine ran 34mms.” Nostalgia can rose-tint your view of things but for Hag honesty is the best policy. “There’s no point tuning the tits off the

engine like we used to because it won’t be fast. If I want to go fast I’ll ride an R1, and besides rebuilding the motor every five minutes will soon lose its appeal when I’ve got a shed full of other, faster bikes to ride.” Certain details haven’t changed, however, like Hag’s old ‘sponsor’ stickers emblazoned across the top of the tank (a new replica item along with panels from Norbo Lea at RDLC Crazy) just as they were on his original. Diagonally across the centre of the tank it reads ‘Engine prepared by Lindemere Tuning’ complete with Pete’s old telephone number. Below that ‘Cosmetics by Devil Paintwork’ who’ve long since ceased trading, and at the top ‘Team Anarchy’, a nod to Hag’s punk influences. “I even redid the ‘crank by Roy Simmonds’ sticker on the front sprocket cover,” says Hag as we look over the bike. “It’s a mark of respect because he died a while back.” Even though he was only 19 when he built that first LC, Hag did it to such a standard that ‘just making do’ simply wouldn’t work for this one. Not that he ever builds bikes

like that, you understand. All engine and chassis bearings, seals and bushes have been replaced with genuine Yamaha parts, except for the five per cent no longer available. The chassis looks as if it was always meant to be that way. But while the Powervalve wheels and suspension are an obvious choice, why not use an aluminium swingarm and rising-rate linkage from, say, a TZR250, or fatter forks if the plan was to use the best parts available in ’86-’87 I ask? “LCs need to have flex in their chassis,” explains Hag. “If you fit something too stiff at either end it upsets the harmonics of the frame and causes instability around the headstock.With the rear wheel spindle all the way forward the YPVS swingarm keeps the wheelbase the same, unlike those RGV conversions – they just look wrong.” One detail that wouldn’t have worked for Hag was fitting the same, almost vertically angled ’bars that he used to run back in the ’80s. “They were horrendous, even back when I was 18-19, and only made sense when you were flat-out. There’s no way I could use them now, not with my back.” So, while they use the same clock-protecting upper, the angle of the ’bars themselves is far less extreme. Uprating the brakes was a must. Despite running a twin disc set-up and braided lines back in the day, stopping power wasn’t all that. “The brakes were shit – we wore out the soles of countless DM boots,” Hag tells me as another tale of the time pops into his head. “One time Jason really couldn’t stop. He was racing this other guy on a dual carriageway, then when he got to the end he went straight over the roundabout – took off. Mind you, we were always crashing.” Not that Hag would do a thing like that today, obviously… The answer with this bike is 1989 FZR600 calipers, which have bigger pistons yet look the same as those from a YPVS. He’s still running LC forks, hence the additional mounting brackets. “They’re actually pretty good,” he says of the brakes.

That was then (left) and this is then, except now (right). Much like a big jigsaw.... all you can do with a jigsaw is smash it up and start again, exactly like you do with an LC 34 Practical Sportsbikes


YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

All this talk of LCs, and especially Hag and Jay’s 350s, has got me all nostalgic, just as Hag said it would, and a ride on his latest creation is the only cure. For me, there’s an added element to this blast from the past. August ’86 was the first issue of PB I ever bought, so the image of Hag and Jay’s LCs is seared into my memory. They were and still are the best-looking RD-LCs I’ve ever seen, so the chance to sample a bike connected to those two is all the sweeter.

THE RIDE Nostalgia is great, right up until the point it meets the modern world. I rode this LC twice; first from PS Towers to our photo location, then again after sampling Hag’s XSR900. During our original encounter it felt just how I remember an LC to be – light, flickable, responsive and fun. But after riding the XSR the LC felt like a different bike: spindly, fragile, ancient and unrefined. This is in no way a reflection on Hag’s spannering skills or the quality of the build, a point – luckily – not lost on its owner. “It handles like a shitbox,” he laughs. Hag’s half-joking, but in a way he’s right. LCs were never that fast, even when tuned, and on tyres skinny enough to embarrass a modern 125 the handling is never going to

be as surefooted as something on modern suspension and rubber. But at least it’s light, so even if it does get the shakes you can still bend an LC to your will. I just wish I hadn’t ridden the 900 before getting back on the LC because it muddied the waters. “It’s all about perspective, I guess,” says Hag of the LC’s handling. “This one’s got better tyres, brakes and suspension than what we had back in the day, but back then we thought they were great.” It’s hard to say whether the YPVS swingarm and YSS shock improve the handling. Any actual gains will be minimal, but back in the day replacing the cantilever set-up with a rising-rate rear end would have impressed the Chelsea Bridge crowd no end, as would the brakes compared to a stock LC. They are, as Hag said, surprisingly good. No

doubt helped out considerably by the CBR600RR mastercylinder. As I spin the 350 through its gears, I can’t help but chuckle at the clocks. Hag’s personalised them in the same way as the originals. The speedo now reads to 140mph, after which it says ‘Bye, bye piggy’. The tacho is equally entertaining with ‘Bang. New crank’ etched beyond the redline. Roy Simmonds must have been a busy bloke. Highly tuned LCs can be pigs to ride. It’s not easy keeping a small capacity motor on the boil when the powerband’s thinner than a gnat’s dinkle, so the stock(ish) motor certainly makes this RD’s ride more pleasurable; 7000-9000rpm is where it’s at. Revving beyond that achieves little other than mechanical punishment. And besides, the motor’s fresh so holding the gas open for

See someone on an LC... and you can bet they’re having a laugh. Even Jim

“EVEN IF IT DOES GET THE SHAKES YOU CAN STILL BEND AN LC TO YOUR WILL”

Practical Sportsbikes 35


Jim looking as ‘at home’ as any 20-stone man can on a mid-capacity motorcycle

YOUR BIKES, YOUR WAY

prolonged periods won’t end well, even if the F2 pipes (that’s name, not spec) are a crispy treat for the ears. I’m glad Hag’s opted for less torturous ’bars. Jarno Saarinen-angled clip-ons look great but in the real world they’re as much use as a candy floss torque wrench. The ’bars on this LC feel stock(ish), but look a million times better, much like the foot controls. Hag’s gone with the old proddie racer’s trick of mounting solid ’pegs into the holes on the OE footrest hangers, giving increased ground clearance without a sharp downturn in comfort. The only niggle is an annoying lack of space between the gear lever and

sidestand; getting your foot between the two to change up isn’t easy. “I had the same issue with the old LC, so I just did away with the stand, although I’m not sure petrol stations would be so happy about me leaning the bike up against the pumps these days.” Having ridden 100 miles on the bike, Hag’s now completed his LC journey. “That was enough nostalgia for me. I’ve got it out of my system now. I’m not 19 anymore and I’ve got plenty of other bikes to ride if I want a buzz, plus I don’t do acid anymore, so I don’t need a substitute. Glad I built it though.” So are we, Hag.

XSR900 LC What if you don’t want an LC, but do want the excitement and slightly unhinged nature in a more user-friendly package? Hag has the answer. The XSR900LC. I rode a standard XSR a couple of years ago and remember thinking at the time how Yamaha had captured the spirit of the LC in a 900 triple. It has the same mischievous streak that encourages its rider to push ever harder, coupled with an ease of control that makes acting the fool irresistible. Fitting LC-style side panels, seat, tail section and a 31K bikini fairing was a stroke of genius on Hag’s part. When sprayed in classic Mars Bar black or white with blue LC graphics they look exactly as intended – like an LC on steroids. The ride is even more so. There’s no waiting for the power to kick in, it’s there right from the off, and keeps on pulling strongly right through to the 11,250 redline. For road riding, fooling about, or even distance work this motor never falls short. And it’s deceptively fast. Hag’s XSR upgrade is more than simply cosmetic. K-Tech fork internals and shock add a sophistication to the damping not present on the stock bike, an Akrapovic system brings more attitude to the three-pot soundtrack, and a bespoke carbon fibre LC-style clock surround – complete with shift light and inbuilt sat nav – is an inspired touch. The kit’s a snip at £1522. And there’s more. Hag’s Velocity Moto offer an additional extras package that includes a footrest kit, steering damper, carbon parts and even an LC-esque bellypan.

Hats off to Hag. He gets it. He really does

For more info go to: Velocity-moto.com (07716 303204) Vapour blasting and Cerakote finishes by MacClean (07592 681743)

Emma Airey, Head of RH Insurance, advises on insuring a special like this Yamaha RD350LC ““RH Insurance is happy to quote for modified bikes provided the owner is able to provide a copy of a current MoT certificate and, if requested, (which would be the case with this Yamaha RD350LC as it’s been modified by the owner) an engineer’s report, plus photos. Because of its bespoke nature, RH considers requests for insurance on an individual basis and we’re happy to discuss your unique requirements over the phone.”

Call 0333 043 3911 or visit rhsspecialistinsurance.co.uk 36 Practical Sportsbikes


Specialist vehicle insurance from people who share your passion.

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0330 912 0017 From iconic models to future classics – we’ve been providing specialist vehicle insurance for over 40 years. RH2103/04 ΎdĞƌŵƐ ĂŶĚ ĐŽŶĚŝƟŽŶƐ ĂƉƉůLJ. Motorcycles must be registered prior to 2000 and must not be used as your everyday transport. Z, ŝƐ Ă ƚƌĂĚŝŶŐ ƐƚLJůĞ ŽĨ WůĂŶ ,ŽůĚŝŶŐƐ WůĂŶ ,ŽůĚŝŶŐƐ ŚĂƐ ŐƌĂŶƚĞĚ Ă ůŝĐĞŶĐĞ ƚŽ Z^ ^LJŶĚŝĐĂƚĞ ^ĞƌǀŝĐĞƐ >ŝŵŝƚĞĚ ƚŽ ƵƐĞ ƚŚĞ ďƌĂŶĚ ŶĂŵĞ Z, ƐƵďũĞĐƚ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƚĞƌŵƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ůŝĐĞŶĐĞ dŚĞ ŝŶƐƵƌĞƌ ŽŶ Ăůů Z, ƉŽůŝĐŝĞƐ ŝƐ ^LJŶĚŝĐĂƚĞ Ϯϭ Ăƚ >ůŽLJĚ Ɛ ǁŚŝĐŚ ŝƐ ŵĂŶĂŐĞĚ ďLJ Z^ ^LJŶĚŝĐĂƚĞ DĂŶĂŐĞŵĞŶƚ >ŝŵŝƚĞĚ Z^ ^LJŶĚŝĐĂƚĞ ^ĞƌǀŝĐĞƐ >ŝŵŝƚĞĚ ŝƐ ĂŶ ƉƉŽŝŶƚĞĚ ZĞƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĂƟǀĞ ŽĨ Z^ ^LJŶĚŝĐĂƚĞ DĂŶĂŐĞŵĞŶƚ >ŝŵŝƚĞĚ ǁŚŝĐŚ ŝƐ ĂƵƚŚŽƌŝƐĞĚ ďLJ ƚŚĞ WƌƵĚĞŶƟĂů ZĞŐƵůĂƟŽŶ ƵƚŚŽƌŝƚLJ ĂŶĚ ƌĞŐƵůĂƚĞĚ ďLJ ƚŚĞ WƌƵĚĞŶƟĂů ZĞŐƵůĂƟŽŶ ƵƚŚŽƌŝƚLJ ĂŶĚ &ŝŶĂŶĐŝĂů ŽŶĚƵĐƚ ƵƚŚŽƌŝƚLJ WůĂŶ ŝƐ ĂƵƚŚŽƌŝƐĞĚ ĂŶĚ ƌĞŐƵůĂƚĞĚ ďLJ ƚŚĞ &ŝŶĂŶĐŝĂů ŽŶĚƵĐƚ ƵƚŚŽƌŝƚLJ ZĞŐŝƐƚĞƌĞĚ KĸĐĞ$ Ϯ ĞƐ ZŽĐŚĞƐ ^ƋƵĂƌĞ tŝƚŶĞLJ KyϮ ϰ> ZĞŐŝƐƚĞƌĞĚ ŝŶ ŶŐůĂŶĚ ZĞŐŝƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ EƵŵďĞƌ ϳϱϬϰ ϰ




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Flexing an old musclebike, still a lot of laughs

FIRST GENERATION RETROS

They’re getting on for 30 years old now. Time (and weather) will not have been kind to their exposed cycle parts. But these tough, original throwbacks still have plenty to offer today

N

ostalgia can be a dangerous thing. It can trick you into believing that everything was better in ‘the good old days’ even when, quite clearly, it wasn’t. But what if you could have a taste of the past without all the crap bits – a highlights package? Be great, wouldn’t it? Kawasaki obviously thought so back in the early ’90s when it launched its Zephyr range; three naked, air-cooled, inline-fours in 550, 750 and 1100cc, designed to appeal to those looking back fondly at the Zeds of the ’70s. But the folk in question didn’t want the drama or hassle of a proper classic – the iffy

Words: Jim Moore | Pictures: Bauer archive

electrics, hopeless brakes, wayward handling or the need for constant TLC. Instead, they wanted all the flavour in an easy-to-use, geton-and-go package. A modern retro. All the Japanese factories have had a go. Honda and Yamaha were not long out of the gate after Kawasaki with their own take on the idea. Honda’s CB1000 Big 1 gave little more than a nod to the past, preferring instead to offer a fully modern interpretation of the naked inline, borrowing its engine from a flagship superbike, liquidcooling and all. Yamaha’s XJR1200 was much closer to the Kawasaki, in ingredients at least. After

a decade of ever more extreme superbikes dictating the market, buyers appreciated the respite afforded by something less in their face, that reconnected with the reason they got into bikes in the first place. Good ol’ fun. Since then, the retro market has exploded to encompass street bikes, off-roaders, and even early sportsbikes, and it shows no signs of hitting the buffers just get. Now almost 30 years old, these original retros are classics in their own right but, and here’s the important bit, they’re often a quarter of the price of a pukka ’70s dinosaur, plus they’re faster, gruntier and nicer to ride than any of the originals. And that’s what makes them great. Practical Sportsbikes 41


“IT WON’T RIP YOUR ARMS OFF, OR ASK MUCH OF YOUR ADRENAL GLAND”

KAWASAKI

ZEPHYR 1100

Long, low, and have you ever seen shinier DMs in your life?

K

awasaki understand heritage, and they’ve never been shy about asserting the link between the original Z1 and all their successive big four-stroke models. So, it was hardly a surprise when the firm pulled the wraps off three air-cooled nakeds at the start of the 1990s – the 550, 750 and 1100 Zephyrs, and started a retro movement. Zephyr means ‘gentle breeze’, so no one expected these air-cooled fours to offer a whirlwind of performance.They didn’t.All three, and especially the 1100, were unashamedly aimed at riders who’d grown up with Z1s, Z900s and Z1000s, and wanted to relive the past, but without the hinged handling, poor brakes, or an engine way

ahead of the chassis in which it sat. With that in mind the 1100 Zephyr delivers. Its heavily braced frame and box-section swingarm are way stiffer, and more capable than anything from the ’70s. Cast alloy wheels allow modern(ish) rubber – although the 18/17-inch F/R mix is a bit odd, and twin 310mm front discs will have the Zephyr stopped way before a Z900 has even started to scrub off speed. The 1062cc motor is based on that from the GPz1100A, although its hairy-arse was waxed to better suit the Zephyr’s less frantic nature.The GPz’s fuel-injection system was also junked in favour of 34mm Keihin CVs. In Zephyr guise this air-cooled lump is understressed to the point that it’ll keep

Easy does it. That’s the way to enjoy a Zephyr 11

PRICE GUIDE HOUND £1000-£1800 A good basis for a special because any finishes that have suffered will be redone. Even if a Zephyr looks rough, most of it will be superficial. The engines are super strong – you’ll only have issues if it’s been owned by a 24-carat oaf.

42 Practical Sportsbikes

TIDY £2500-£3500 Mechanically sound, good brakes, decent tyres, functioning suspension (if it’s tired use this to negotiate on price). Look at the owner. If it’s still on its original exhaust check the collector box is still solid; replacements aren’t cheap.

MINT £4500-£5500 For a Zephyr to be mint, it will have to have been owned by someone who literally worshipped it. 1100 Zephyrs are rare, so finding a mint original may take some doing. Considerably cheaper than a Z900 though, and that’s the appeal.


SPECIFICATION KAWASAKI ZEPHYR 1100 ENGINE Type air-cooled, dohc, 8v inline four Capacity 1062cc Bore x stroke 73.5 x 62.6mm Compression ratio 9.1:1 Fuelling 4 x Keihin CVK34 TRANSMISSION Primary/final drive chain/chain Clutch wet/multiplate Gearbox 5-speed CHASSIS Frame tubular steel cradle Front suspension 43mm telescopic forks, non-adjustable Rear suspension twin shocks, adj preload, rebound and compression damping Front brake 2 x 310mm discs, 2-pot calipers Rear brake 240mm disc, single-pot caliper Wheels 5-spoke cast alloy or spoked Front tyre 120/70 18 Rear tyre 160/70 17 DIMENSIONS Wheelbase 1500mm (59in) Seat height 795mm (31.2in) Dry weight 252kg (555lb) Fuel capacity 19 litres (4.17 gals) PERFORMANCE Power (claimed) 91.7bhp@8000rpm Torque (claimed) 65.6lb.ft@7000rpm Top speed 136.5mph

merrily grunting its way along for hundreds of thousands of miles without bother. If anything, it’s massively overengineered for the purposes of this bike. To ride, the 1100 Zephyr is pleasant enough. It won’t rip your arms out of their sockets, or ask much of your adrenal gland, but for measured A-road cruising or posing about town this old-school Kwak hits the spot. If your mate’s got a CB1000 or an XJR1200 and they like to tramp on, you might find the Zephyr lacking though, but then you wouldn’t buy a ZR1100 to ride like a tool. Pillions will like the generous perch, although the grab rail could be a tad higher. Kawasaki nailed the styling; there are nods to the earlier Zeds from the neat faux chrome instruments and tear drop fuel tank, to the tasty 4-2 pipes and duck’s arse tail piece.The look got a further boost late on in the Zephyr’s run when Kawasaki offered a spoked-wheel model with two-tone paint alongside the more familiar cast-wheel job. If you can keep on top of the cleaning, that’s the one to have. Standard Zephyrs are getting rarer, though, and with good reason.With the prices for ’70s Zeds now off the chart, specials builders have instead turned their attention to these retros. Tricked up with wider wheels, better brakes, chunkier suspension, a tasty pipe, big carbs and perhaps some engine upgrades a Zephyr special looks as good as modified Zed – and performs way better – for a fraction of the cost.Who wouldn’t want that?

There’s a lot of polishing to do to stop a Zephyr from turning to dust

MODEL GUIDE 1991 ZR1100 A1 The original retro. Cast aluminium wheels with polished rims, chrome 4-2 exhaust system, single colour options. Colours: Pearl black, Midnight Blue. 1992 ZR1100 A1 No changes other than colours. Colours: Vintage Red, Pearl black. 1993 ZR1100 A2 Same again. Colours: Vintage Red, Pearl black 1994 ZR1100 A2 No changes. Colours: Vintage red/Pearl Galaxy Mica 1995 ZR1100 A4 No changes. Colours: Pearl Boulogne, Pearl Purple Black Mica 1996 ZR1100 B1/A4 Last hurrah with a ‘vintage’ variant, the B1, complete with spoked wheels and two-tone Z1-style paint options. Some A4 models got all black wheels in certain markets. Colours: (A4) Pearl Boulogne, Pearl Purple Black Mica, (B1) Pearl Grey, Vintage Red

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW CALIPERS: A magnet for corrosion. The original paint finish was poor and doesn’t take much encouragement to flake off. Once gone, the aluminium underneath will dissolve like an aspirin in water if you’re not careful. The seals and pistons need equally vigilant care. EXPOSED ALLOY AND CHROME: Zephyrs are sunny day bikes. Take them anywhere near rain and you’ll need to clean and dry them pronto. The finish on the wheels, fork legs and engine will soon go off if you don’t treat them with the care they require. Buy some Autosol – lots of it. CAMCHAIN TENSIONER: The only real issue with an otherwise strong motor, according to Grumpy1260’s Chris Tombleson. “Fit a manual tensioner – we do them for £58.99,” he says. “They won’t slip like an automatic one, but you will need to adjust it every now and again if it’s to do its job. I’ve never known the rest of the motor to ever give any bother.”

Box-section swingarm with eccentrics is a substantial item

A traditional motorcycle if ever there was one. Aye, lad CARBS: ”If you’re keeping the motor stock, leave the carbs that way as well”, says Chris. Stick with the airbox, too. “They never made a jet kit for the 1100, as far as I remember, because owners weren’t really into upgrading the performance. The carbs only cause issues if you start messing about with them. If you’re tuning the engine or building a special, go for a set of Keihin CRs.” TANKS: Kawasaki’s quality in the early ’90s was hit and miss, and Zephyr tanks are known to rot. The 550 and 750 were worse, but check an 1100’s fuel cell if you’re looking to buy because finding a replacement may not be easy. FORKS: Pitted stanchions are another legacy of Kawasaki’s early ’90s build quality. Inspect their condition; if they’re in any way pitted the seals will soon throw in the towel too.

Practical Sportsbikes 43


Yes, you can dig out your old blouson-style leather jacket if you get one of these

YAMAHA

“MAX TORQUE IS AT 6250RPM SO THERE’S RARELY ANY NEED TO BOTHER THE GEAR LEVER”

XJR1200

F

or a manufacturer whose first naked, air-cooled, inline-four was the punchy, but ponderous XS1100, Yamaha’s later retro offering on the same theme is a mighty accomplished effort. And that’s the reason XJRs in all their forms have been a mainstay in Yamaha’s range for so long. In short, they’re ace. A large chunk of that brilliance comes from the FJ1200 derived motor which oozes grunt, especially lowdown and when you need to execute a rapid overtake. In fact, of these three, I’d want the Yamaha beneath me every time when dispatching a line of dawdling traffic – max torque is at 6250rpm so there’s rarely any need to bother the gear lever. For general road riding the XJR’s mill is never going to disappoint.

The chassis is a softer customer than the motor, but if in good fettle an XJR12 is still a capable, well balanced performer.And despite its retro tag, this Yamaha is way better at spirited riding than an 1100 Zephyr.What you can get away with on an XJR would likely land the Kawasaki and its rider in the nearest ditch. Soft suspension is the biggest limitation, both in terms of ground clearance and handling accuracy – the stock shocks may look like Öhlins, but they’re not, and even the SP’s items aren’t the Swedish firm’s finest. Also, the 43mm teles are non-adjustable, so firming up what’s there isn’t possible.The rewards of a suspension upgrade more than justify the financial outlay. Binning the stock Sumitomo calipers for

Nicely balanced chassis, just a bit soft in stock order

TIDY £2500-£3500 An aftermarket exhaust system is likely (ensure the carbs are jetted to suit, so the midrange isn’t compromised), as is a more comfortable seat, braided hoses and better shocks. Retro-fitted blue-spots are worth having.

MINT £4500-£5500 Original, low mileage and if it’s mint it’ll have been carefully stored, too. Even so, check the collector box for signs of rot, the condition of the inlet rubbers, and that the suspension damping is still present.

PRICE GUIDE HOUND £1000-£1800 Once corrosion has taken hold of an XJR it’s hard to restore the bike’s previous lustre without spending a mighty amount of cash, so if you’re looking for a rider you’d be well advised to spend a few quid more and get something better.

44 Practical Sportsbikes


SPECIFICATION YAMAHA XJR1200 ENGINE Type air-cooled, dohc, 16v inline-four Capacity 1188cc Bore x stroke 77 x 36.8mm Compression ratio 9.7:1 Fuelling 4 x Mikuni BS36 CV TRANSMISSION Primary/final drive gear/chain Clutch wet/multiplate Gearbox 5-speed CHASSIS Frame tubular steel cradle Front suspension 43mm telescopic forks, non-adjustable Rear suspension twin Öhlins style shocks, adjustable preload Front brake 2 x 298mm discs, 4-pot Sumitomo calipers Rear brake 245mm disc, 2-pot caliper Wheels hollow 3-spoke, cast aluminium Front tyre 130/70 ZR17 Rear tyre 170/60 ZR17 DIMENSIONS Wheelbase 1500mm (59.1in) Seat height 790mm (31.1in) Dry weight 233kg (513lb) Fuel capacity 21 litres (4.61 gals) PERFORMANCE Power (claimed) 98bhp@8000rpm Torque (claimed) 67.3lb.ft@6250rpm Top speed 141mph

the later 1300’s blue-spots is well worth looking into, unless you enjoy constantly stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the originals. It’s worth knowing that Japanesespec XJR1200s come with flashy Brembo front calipers, just like the home market TRX850s. That said, cleaning is all part of the XJR experience.There’s a lot of chrome and unpainted aluminium on this Yam, and it won’t stay as intended if you’re slap-dash with the sponge and Autosol. Just one ride in the rain, park it up and leave it, and your XJR could be reduced to a furry mess.Your heart, and the bike’s value, will plummet like a stone. If you don’t enjoy removing dirt from metal, steer clear of an XJR1200. Suzuki’s 1200 Bandit dented the XJR’s appeal to a certain extent – the GSF offers a sportier ride, more oomph, and a hooligan streak much nearer to the surface than with the Yam. So, by the end of the ’90s the XJR was given an extra 100cc, R1 calipers and a higher spec as standard than the previous SP. All of which begs the question, why buy a 1200 when the 1300 is better? Well, for starters, the original 1200 has a more classically rooted charm than the later bike – the simple, single-colour options, black-and-silver engine, and stumpy, slash-cut pipes just look better.What’s more, the 1300 isn’t that much better, but it’ll cost you more for the privilege.And against its period competition – particularly the Zephyr 11 and CB1000 – the XJR12 more than matches what the others have to offer.The 12 is the smart buy.

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW EXHAUST COLLECTOR BOX: In plain mild steel (the rest of the system is chromed – headers are double-skinned) and prone to rot from both the inside and outside. If it hasn’t gone already, expect it to, and budget for a replacement. BRAKE CALIPERS: The 1200 came with troublesome Sumitomo front calipers that seize if not regularly stripped and cleaned. Retro fitting blue-spots from a 1300 is a worthwhile upgrade; and they’re less likely to seize, too. BASE GASKET: If the bottom of the block and top of the crankcases look damp, the base gasket could have called time. It’s not disastrous – retorquing the top-end can cure the issue. A winter job if there ever was one.

CARB BALANCE: A rough sounding/running XJR is usually the result of out-of-balance carburettors – the motors are bombproof so rarely give any trouble. If you buy an XJR, invest in a decent carb balancing kit and be ready to use it. CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER: Check the slave cylinder for signs of fluid leakage – the seal hardens and fails over time. An easy and cheap repair, however. CARB RUBBERS: All XJR1200s will be more than 20 years old by now, and rubber that’s two decades old hardens and cracks. If there’s an air leak or you can’t get the carbs to balance properly treat the ol’ girl to a new set of inlet rubbers.

Plainer than the later 1300s – and all the better for it

MODEL GUIDE V 1995 XJR1200 Naked roadster, piggy-back twin shocks, Sumitomo calipers, silver exhaust collector box. Japanese market bikes got Brembo front calipers. Colours: black, burgundy, 1996 XJR1200 No spec updates. Additional colour only. Colours: black, burgundy, silver. 1997 XJR1200 Exhaust collector box black. Colours: same as previous year. 1997 XJR1200 SP Uprated ‘special edition’ with Öhlins shocks, and flashy paint. Colours: yellow/ black/white (Roberts rep), Sonauto blue (Europe).

Engine is one of the great unburstables of the age. Great motor

1998 XJR1200 Final year before XJR1300. No colour changes.

Practical Sportsbikes 45


Sh In ip ter pi na ng ti Se ona rv l ice s

Kawasaki ZX12R 2001 .................£4,950

Honda CB750 Auto 1977 ..............£4,950

Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo 1984... £10,950

Kawasaki 750 Mach IV 1974 ...... £14,950

Ducati 900SS Flatside ................£6,500

Honda CB500F 1974...................£8,950

Honda CB750 F2 1994 ................£3,500

Mondial 125 Cross 1973 ..............£3,950

Norton F1 Rotary 1990 .............£39,950

Suzuki T500 1973 .......................£6,950

Gilera Nuovo Saturno 500..........£6,950

Honda CL175 1972 ......................£2,950

Mick Doohan’s Paddock Scoot...... £PoA

Honda JDM 600/4 Racer ......... £14,950

Ducati Pantah Racer 1981......... £14,950

Yamaha YG1F 1971 .....................£2,950

Honda CB400F Road Racer .......£4,950

Triumph Bonneville 1969 ...........£9,950

Norton Commando 1969 .......... £10,950

BSA 500 Gold Star 1959 ........... £18,950

Tel: 01252

625444

Mobile: 07809 894777

www.ClassicSuperBikes.co.uk

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SPECIFICATION HONDA CB1000 PROJECT BIG 1 ENGINE Type liquid-cooled, dohc, 16v inline four Capacity 998cc Bore x stroke 77 x 53.6mm Compression ratio 10:1 Fuelling 4 x 34mm VP45A Keihin Ignition CDI TRANSMISSION Primary/final drive gear/chain Clutch wet/multiplate Gearbox 5-speed CHASSIS Frame tubular steel cradle Front suspension 43mm Showa teles, non-adjustable Rear suspension twin shocks, remote reservoir Showa, adj preload Front brake 2 x 300mm discs, 4-pot Nissin calipers Rear brake 276mm disc, single-pot caliper Wheels hollow 3-spoke, cast aluminium Front tyre 120/70 18 Rear tyre 170/60 18 DIMENSIONS Wheelbase 1540mm (60.1in) Seat height 790mm (31.1in) Dry weight 235kg (518lb) Fuel capacity 22 litres (4.8 gals) PERFORMANCE Power (claimed) 98bhp@8500rpm Torque (claimed) 61.9lb.ft@6000rpm Top speed 136.5mph

comes with bigger front discs than a FireBlade and the same four-pot Nissin calipers, but check for cracks around the rotors’ relief drill holes if the bike’s covered a few miles. And while the 18-inch wheels may limit tyre choice, do you really need the latest supersport rubber on a naked street bike? If you do, perhaps the CB1000 isn’t really your bag. To ride, the CB feels more modern than an XJR, and a lot more up to date than a Zephyr, so if you want retro styling without the old-school handling this Honda certainly hits the mark. The motor’s a good ’un, too, producing similar numbers to the better endowed Yamaha, underpinned by rich low and midrange grunt. Top speed is irrelevant. Anything over a ton is will have your neck muscles protesting, but for real world riding (40-90mph) the CB1000 has all bases covered. It’s still very much a big deal.

Honda got it right – chunky, tough, and reeking of quality

MODEL GUIDE V 1993 CB1000P New model naked, powered by a retuned CBR1000F motor. 18-inch wheels, brushed aluminium end-can. Known also as Project Big 1. Colours: white/red, black. 1994 CB1000R Minor spec changes only. New two-tone colour options. Colours: black/ grey, yellow/silver. 1995 CB1000S Silencer now a satin black finish. Engine covers changed to matt black look. Colours: red, black.

One of the finest all analogue layouts you’ll see

1996 CB1000T No changes from previous models, including colour options. Colours: red, black.

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW REG/REC: It’s an old Honda, so a reg/rec check/update is to be expected. Electrex World (electrexworld.co.uk) offer a quality replacement for £75.

go. Avoid California-spec machines if you happen to find one – they’re properly strangled and not worth the expense or hassle of putting back to full fat.

GEARBOX 6-SPEED UPGRADE: The engine’s a solid unit and less stressed than in CBR1000F form. Fitting a CBR lump will give a welcome performance boost (Honda claimed 125bhp and 77lb.ft), as well as an extra ratio in the gearbox.

CENTRESTAND REMOVAL: Great for lubing the chain, but may get in the way of an aftermarket 4-1.

EXHAUST COLLECTOR ROT: Rots from both the inside and outside, and not cheap to replace, so have a good look under the bike before you buy. Replacement end-cans are easy to come by, full systems less so. A complete 4-1 from Barracuda Exhausts will rush you over £900…

SHOCKS: If a CB1000’s still on its original suspension it’s bound to be on the tired side by now. Lots of quality upgrade options available. RIPPED SEATS: Owners of less than average stature can struggle to swing a leg over the CB1000’s seat without catching the pillion perch with a boot, so rips around the upper seam are a known issue.

TYRE SIZES: The 18-inch wheels limit tyre options somewhat, so some owners fit 17-inchers from a Blackbird. Smaller rims and stickier rubber will reduce ground clearance and make decking out the ’pegs, pipe, stand, and your feet more likely though. RESTRICTED PARALLEL IMPORTS: Japanese market bikes are speed restricted to 112mph (180kph). Remove the restrictor from the speedo and away you

Practical Sportsbikes 47


C

onsidering the 1100 Zephyr, XJR1200 and CB1000 were all aimed at a similar buyer, they offer three different characters. The Kawasaki is an unashamed Zed clone, and in some ways its engineering – particularly the GPz1100A motor – can trace a line back to the company’s first superbikes. But at best it’s a pastiche, sorely lacking the elements that made its ancestors so great. While a Zephyr is fast and capable enough to waft along at respectable speed, and even elicit some level of fun, it’ll never

Yamaha (above) has lost none of its appeal over the years. Zephyr (above , right) needs work to make the grade today, but still makes a great base for a special

48 Practical Sportsbikes

have the presence of a Z900, or even a CB1000 for that matter. Truth be told, in stock form, the 1100 Kwak is a bit, well, dull. But there is another way. Zephyr 11s make a fantastic base for a really outstanding Zed-type special. The frame’s already way better than anything 1970s, the engine’s got bags of potential, and even if you use really high-end suspension, wheels and brakes it’ll still work out cheaper when done than a stock Z1. In fact, every Zephyr deserves the chance to be made better. If building a special isn’t for you, and you

just want a retro you can jump on and enjoy, the XJR1200 should be on your list. They’ve lost none of their style – Yamaha did a brilliant job – and as an overall package the balance between performance, usability, handling and laughs is right where it needs to be. If you can afford it, the XJR1300 will offer extra grunt and stopping power, plus superior stock suspension, but if you’re on a budget you won’t feel short-changed by the original 12. Which leaves the CB1000. The Big 1 isn’t really a retro, it’s more interesting than that. It’s the result of unrestricted thinking – that’s why it bristles with so many A-grade components, and is better put together than either the Kawasaki or Yamaha. Like the XJR there’s a bigger version of the CB, the 1300, also designed by Hara-san, but unlike the Big 1 the later bike wasn’t the result of a special project, so it’s not quite as, er, special. If any of this trio are destined to be a future classic my money’s on the Honda. And that’s where it’d go if I were buying.

“THE BIG 1 ISN’T REALLY A RETRO, IT’S MORE INTERESTING THAN THAT”


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THE MOST INFLUENTIAL (OR NOT) YAMAHAS

You could never accuse Yamaha of failing to push engineering boundaries. Often the results were magical. Sometimes less so Words: Jim Moore | Pictures: Bauer archive

And it was a decent trail bike too. Bit heavy, but useable

XT500

(1976-1981) Yamaha had never built a four-stroke single before the XT500. But when they did get around to putting together their maiden thumper, the firm from Iwata built a belter. At that time in the mid-’70s America’s off-road leisure (read leee-sure)

50 Practical Sportsbikes

market was taking off big time.With thousands of acres of scrub and trails open to anyone with a pick-up and a dirt bike. Two-strokes were already being squeezed in some States by ever tighter emissions regulations, particularly California, so a four-stroke trailie like the XT was perfectly placed to clean up in terms of sales. It helped that the XT500 was a great bike too; light, manageable, easy to handle and fun – a stripped down, ready to race version, the TT500, offered even more of the above.

Over in Europe the XT500 made its mark in the Paris-Dakar Rally, winning the event on its first two runnings, and taking a clean sweep of the podium in the race’s second year. This proved the XT was a proper bit of kit, robustly and cleverly engineered. You need a great bike to even finish the Dakar, never mind win it, and the XT was that and more. This 500 is the forerunner of today’s adventure bike craze.Whether you thank Yamaha for that is up to you…


Influential Yamahas Have some of that

FZ750

(1985-1991) The FZ750 wasn’t that much faster, more powerful or lighter than its rivals, but what it brought to the table was a radical change in how sportsbikes were designed and produced. Or, as Yamaha said at the time, “The FZ’s four-stroke technology picks up where the opposition ran out of ideas.” And packed with ideas it was. The FZ represented a line in the sand between old and new, its box-section perimeter chassis being the nail in the coffin for the decadesold cradle frame. The perimeter frame was the central design feature from which all of the FZ’s other new technology flowed. Each fresh idea allowed the adoption of another, and so on – everything interlinked and worked together to produce a superior overall package. Yamaha called this engineering ethos ‘Genesis’. The cylinders were canted forward by 45º, which made for straighter, more efficient inlet tracts fed by downdraught carbs, and a larger top-mounted airbox – itself only possible because of the frame design. Combustion was further enhanced by three inlet valves, and two exhausts. Yamaha perfected its Genesis concept over the following decades. Tellingly, other manufacturers followed suit, adopting the perimeter and later beam frame chassis for their own sportsbikes.

An amazing tool that ultimately lost sight of what it was supposed to be

FZR1000 EXUP (1989-1995)

By 1989 Yamaha’s Genesis concept was expressing itself in the form of a sophisticated superbike with a chassis that wouldn’t have looked out of place in a TT-F1 race, and with performance that could have worried an early ’80s 500GP bike. Even when Honda’s FireBlade finally took over as head of the sportsbike pack in ’92, the FZR was still a hell of a thing; 170mph potential and ground-breaking exhaust tech weren’t to be sneered at. Like so many of Yamaha’s greatest hits, the FZR1000 was the start of something truly great, as well as being an amazing bike in its own right.Without the EXUP we may never have had the ’Blade or today’s litre bikes.

YZF-R6

(1998-2021) Before the R6 appeared in 1998, Yamaha’s supersport 600s always felt a bit thrown together. Built from cheap materials and often anything that was kicking about in the parts bin, the FZR and YZF Thundercat were far from Yamaha’s finest hour. The YZF-R6 changed all that, signaling the start of 600s becoming the most serious sportsbikes in their own right. The World Supersport Championship, which kicked off in 1997, gave the class new purpose. Sportsbike owners wanted to ride

bikes that won races, and right from the off the R6 delivered. Only Honda’s CBR600 has won more WSS titles (only by one), and since 2017 the R6 has taken every crown. The R6 has never been short of new or class-leading tech either, from its Deltabox beam frame and heavily braced swingarm (1998), to fuel-injection (2003), ride-bywire throttle (2006), or being the first production 600 to produce the magical 200bhp-per-litre (1998). Unfortunately, in the rush to make 600s ever faster and more capable of winning races, manufacturers – and Yamaha in particular – lost sight of what road riders (you know, the people who ultimately buy the bloody things) actually want from a middleweight. The latest R6, with its magnesium subframe, optional riding modes, ABS and traction control, is an undeniably fantastic thing, but it’s now too buzzy and compact to make much sense on the road, as confirmed by plummeting sales. Still, it was good while it lasted. Practical Sportsbikes 51


Influential Yamahas Without this, there would have been no 1980s bike boom

FS1-E

(1972-1977) Like many of Yamaha’s greatest hits, the FS1-E wasn’t any more radical or significantly better than its rivals. Indeed, Suzuki’s A50P and Honda’s SS50 were arguably more sophisticated than the Fizzy but, as has often been the case, Yamaha simply did it better. Before 1971 16-year-olds in the UK could blast around on 250s. Persuading them thereafter to take to just 49cc wasn’t an easy sell, but by the mid-’70s any kid longing for freedom and excitement wanted a Fizzy, our own Medium G being one of them. “I remember the bloke in the shop trying to steer me onto an SS50. I was having none of it, I wanted a Fizzy. That was the end of it.” The FS1-E kickstarted a sports moped movement in the UK that would buzz along for the next 25 years, the importance of which should never be underestimated. Many of the kids who saved up their paper round money to buy an FS1-E, or any sports ’ped for that matter, went on to be the guys and gals who bought LCs, GSX-Rs, FireBlades and R1s.

The smell of freedom

RD250/350LC (1980-1983)

If the FS1-E was Yamaha’s gift to the 1970s, the 250 and 350LC were its ’80s equivalent. LCs were the catalyst for many great things. These liquid-cooled twins laid the foundations for GP careers (take a bow Niall Mackenzie, Alan Carter and Rob Mac), helped build a massive aftermarket parts industry, created a whole new sub-culture for rebellious yoof, and fuelled a two-stroke renaissance that would produce some of the most arousing race reps ever built. The LC was built with Europe in mind, and yet it ended up being a massive hit right across the world, from Japan, Canada and Australia to South America. And it’s as popular today as ever. Race-bred technology and elegant design helped the LC’s cause, but these Yams had something else – an X-factor – that made them so much more than mere small capacity two-stroke twins. They were exciting to ride, out-handled and often out-performed bikes twice their size, and yet were simple enough to stay on top of. 52 Practical Sportsbikes


T-MAX XP500 (2001-2011)

If you’ve never ridden a big scooter, you might be wondering what the Billy Ray Cyrus the T-Max is doing in a list of Yamaha’s most influential models, and we’ll forgive you that oversight. Big scooters rock – there, said it. Having already dipped a toe in the water with the YP250 Majesty, Yamaha’s 500cc T-Max was the model that proved a single machine could successfully combine motorcycle performance with the versatility and convenience of a scooter. Since then, the sector has boomed. While the T-Max may look like a jet-ski on wheels, it’ll cruise at 85 – topping out at a ton, shield you from the elements, stop like a good ’un (the latest models have radiallymounted gold-spot calipers), and make you laugh out loud when you’re hanging onto, and irritating the life out of a flustered sportsbike rider down a twisty country lane. While other manufacturers have upped the ante with ever larger capacity big scoots (Gilera and BMW have 800s), Yamaha has kept the T-Max below 600cc, and it still delivers everything you need. If you’ve never ridden one, seriously, get a go. You’ll then know why it’s on this list, and I promise you won’t have laughed so hard in ages.

Took the scooter from comedy show to serious machine

YAMAHA’S HEROIC FAILURES 1. GTS1000 (1993-1994)

2. TDR250 (1988-1993)

3. MT-01 (2005-2012)

4. 2WD MX BIKE (1985-2007)

5. FZX750 Fazer (1986-1987)

Like so many of Yamaha’s left-field ideas, the GTS1000 was just too far ahead of its time. The world simply wasn’t ready for a funny front-ended sports tourer back in 1993. As well as its distinctive front-end the GTS packed plenty more new and clever engineering solutions, such as its ‘Omega’ chassis, fuel-injection, ABS, an inbuilt catalytic converter, and a six-pot caliper for its massive single front disc. But the front-end got in the way of the FZR1000 engine’s downpipes – reduced in size, they stifled performance. While the GTS was pleasant enough to use, it didn’t deliver an all-new riding experience. Or decent enough sales.

How could we call the TDR250 a failure, you might well ask? They’re brilliant bikes, obviously, but – and here’s the rub – Yamaha’s attempt to invent an all-new on/off-road two-stroke sports market ultimately fell flat on its arse. No other manufacturer attempted to counter the TDR with a similar offering (and that was rare during the 1980s). In fact, not even Yamaha returned to the drawing board for a TDR update – more’s the pity – because if the truth be told, this high-piped 250 twin was simply way too far ahead of its time. It was a Yamaha, after all…

There are two ways to look at the MT-01. First, as a poor selling oddball that fell between several stools, not really achieving a foothold on any. And second, as a slow burner, maybe a decade before its time. In the UK at least this bizarre 1670cc V-twin/ naked sports mash-up, that first appeared as a concept bike at the 1999 Tokyo Show, was nothing short of a flop. Yamaha thought it’d sell on the grounds of its unique appeal – if something that looks like the bastard child of an XJR and an American custom has appeal. But it didn’t, leaving the manufacturer’s UK arm with a warehouse full of the things that took years to clear.

If all decent off-road cars and trucks are four-wheeldrive, wouldn’t it make sense for the motorcycle equivalent to be two-wheeldrive? Yam’s first 2-Trac system was fitted to a YZ250 back in 1985. Later hydraulic 2-Trac designs, built in conjunction with Öhlins, showed more promise, and were even tried with some success – Jean-Claude Olivier finished fifth in the 2001 Shamrock Rally on a 2WD WR426F. Even a 2-Trac YZF-R1 underwent testing in Sweden, where it lapped more than five seconds a lap quicker in the wet than a conventional bike.

Some things just aren’t a good idea. Fitting an FZ750 motor into a street rod chassis, for example. Like the V-Max before it, the FZX750 Fazer was aimed squarely at the American market where corners are an alien concept and blasting away from the lights is still considered a manly pursuit. Unlike the V-Max, however, the FZX wasn’t destined to become a cult bike, mainly due to the fact it was pointless. And crap. Whereas the Max’s 145bhp V4 motor was something worth getting all dribbly mouthed about – even if you didn’t live in a trailer and weren’t married to your cousin – the Fazer had little going for it.

Practical Sportsbikes 53


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Many other models catered for, please see our website for more models and our package details

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Padgett’s YZR500

Family Jewel

Race bikes are simply tools for a job… most of the time. For Clive Padgett, the YZR500 is more than that: it represents much of what the Padgett family and team is about, not to mention it being a treat for some of his favourite riders Words: Old Farmer Chris | Pictures: Simon Lee

T

here is a little irony in the fact that a hand-built prototype is one of the most ‘authentic’ bikes to race in the Classic TT. The Suzuki F1 bikes are mere silhouette classics – new frames, new engines, and a general specification paying the scantest homage to period machines. “They have their place, they’re great bikes and there wouldn’t be a race without them,” Clive agrees. The 750 superbikes are a

little closer to in-period originals, though they too are allowed certain concessions to competitiveness, safety, and simply being able to get a bike on the grid in some cases. But this ex-factory YZR, dug out from a dusty corner of Padgett’s legendary backrooms crammed with time-warp treasures, is as close to its 1992 specification as it is possible to be. A true classic: a beautiful, potent, and highly evocative one, but a historic machine nonetheless. Those

that survive from the time are largely static exhibits: museum pieces, maybe in private collections. Some are kept running for parades. But few see any sort of competition – let alone anything even nearly so brutal and taxing as the TT. 500GP bikes – certainly after the mid1980s when road circuits had disappeared from championships, and the bikes became fully specialised short-circuit bikes riding the technology/development wave – are not Practical Sportsbikes 55


Padgett’s YZR500 The YZR has all but matched the Supersport 600 lap record: bikes 20 years newer, that can be ridden with no regard for engine life. Incredible

good road-race bikes, historically speaking. There have been a few dalliances, but fourstrokes in either production or F1 spec tend to be the favoured mounts. Less highlystrung, more stable, less appetite for fuel. So why bother campaigning a historical curiosity that wasn’t the tool for the job in the first place? After all, what Padgett’s don’t have stashed away, they can usually lay their hands on. Their second entry is an ex-WSB Rob McElnea OW01. No shed itself. But the YZR is a signature Padgett’s race bike. “My father, Peter, and Uncle Don Padgett created this brand – Padgett’s Racing.

They were pioneers in racing two-strokes at the TT like this for our team – and it’s something I’m proud to continue. It was Bruce [Anstey] who first said ‘Hey, you know there’s going to be a classic superbike race next year?’ That would have been 2014. I didn’t give it much thought at first, but then we had the idea of using the YZR.” The YZR is a 1992 factory bike. Whose? Who knows? “Everyone with an RG500 seems to claim it’s an ex-Sheene bike… with YZRs, they all seem to be ex-Rainey. I honestly don’t know, though they didn’t put mugs out on them,” Clive points out. “We

See what he’s doing with the matching van there? Eh? Yeah

56 Practical Sportsbikes

bought it in 1995: my father had the idea of approaching Yamaha to buy a YZR, so I asked the question.” The response was a Japanese approximation of ‘Do one, pal’. But Peter didn’t let the idea go: “Ask them for last year’s bikes.” That request was more successful. Buying YZRs and parts to suit was partly a business venture for the dealer/ race shop, but the bike was raced in the distinct rainbow colours by Toshi Arakaki as a wildcard in the Japanese GP. He finished eighth. A respectable result, but the YZR’s time to shine would come at the other end of 16 years in storage. “I built the bike myself, originally. I pulled it right down, and rebuilt it once I’d had the frame powdercoated” Clive recalls. “Though as I put it back together, I realised that I couldn’t use the yokes, the shock absorber body, the handlebar clamps and more – they’re magnesium, not safe to use.” Magnesium is a beautifully lightweight material – it’s also quite finicky and doesn’t age well, and can simply disintegrate if subjected to shocks the part wasn’t engineered for. Like doing 170mph on B-roads on a rock in the Irish Sea… Clive’s favoured machinist was handed a pile of original parts deemed unsafe to use, and asked to recreate them. New yokes, shock linkage, and threaded top mount/ride height adjuster were some of the main parts made to exact original patterns in more durable aluminium alloy. The Öhlins shock


“THE MAGNESIUM WHEELS WERE RETIRED. EVEN FACTORY FRESH THEY’RE STILL A BAD IDEA ON THE ROADS”

was fitted with a new body in aluminium, rather than being replaced with a box-fresh 21st-century equivalent. Safety concerns meant other parts had to be replaced with new. “My father pressed it in to me that you can’t take a short circuit bike to the TT, because it’s so hard on it.” This decades-old wisdom is clear: some of the newer front-runners in road racing run bikes closer to BSB spec, but about the only thing on the YZR not secured with lockwire is the wire itself. Bolts, clips and countless little fittings are safety-wired – each one betraying the massive experience of the

team. Two-strokes, despite their lightweight low-inertia design, are hard on themselves – the high-frequency vibes and stiff chassis can push any component to breaking point. The magnesium wheels were retired. Even factory fresh they’re still a bad idea on the roads. In their place, a pair of Dymag UP7X forged aluminium wheels went in. Modern racing stipulates such wheels to reduce cost, so the development has narrowed the weight penalty over mag alloy, but not the safety/cost differential. New, period-correct Brembo axial fourpots and matching discs were found, and

Padgett’s had a factory Nissin rear caliper still in stores from their time in the paddock. “Serge Rosset sold his ROC chassis to teams in the paddock, and supported them with engine parts from Yamaha too. Harris also made frames, but we supported them with the engines. It was a great partnership for us, and we had some parts leftover…” Forks were one thing they didn’t have: factory Öhlins are rare, but the bottoms are made from… yes, you guessed it. So they were a no-no. Clive had new ones made for K-Tech internals, but externally they are dimensionally and aesthetically

Prepping a Premier Class Grand Prix two-stroke for the rigours of the roads is a meticulous business. Critical path discipline is the only way – safety wire-locking paramount Practical Sportsbikes 57


Even more attitude than usual courtesy of the raised seat unit to fit Conor Cummins

identical – if you look closely. Swedish gold tint makes way for black, in deference to the Derbyshire outfit making the boingy bits. Tyres are treaded Dunlops for the race – a 600-spec front, a superbike-spec rear, because Bruce liked the agility the wider, taller tyre gave on the YZR’s rear rim. The detail remains correct: NOS Yamaha wheel spindles, rearsets, the tacho/temp gauge, and the bodywork. New glassfibre has been commissioned using moulds made from originals. The fuel

tank is an genuine 1992 aluminium part, which under Classic TT rules, affords the YZR something critical: extra capacity. If you build a tank for your bike – as you would a ZXR750 – it must be 24 litres. Original tanks are allowed original capacity. It carries more, so the YZR can drink premix race fuel at the obscene rate a motor firing every other stroke is designed to. “It’s about the only bike

Clive Padgett, driving force behind keeping thoroughbred race bikes racing 58 Practical Sportsbikes

that’s better to ride on a full tank – Bruce reckons it gets a bit light and lively on lap two,” says Clive. Next, came the fun bit: the motor. 500GP bikes of the day were permitted a 115kg minimum weight. Factory bikes with the best bits hit that, though they needed every detail pared down to get there. This YZR, although a factory bike, didn’t make it to Batley with the flyweight magnesium crankcases. Something of a life saver now – more than a few old race bikes have had motors written off by atmospheric factors, or simply being stored with water in the cooling circuits. Barry Sheene’s own collection (genuine ones, not the countless imposters) suffered just such unwitting abuse. No rot issues here – a straightforward rebuild with new cranks, pistons, seals and so on saw it right, just like any common-or-garden road two-stroke. The difference here is that parts don’t grow on trees, and a racing two-stroke run at its optimum is sensitive to atmospheric conditions. Parts of the TT circuit are at sea level, through trees. Juicy, oxygen-rich air that just


Padgett’s YZR500

Clive reckons the YZR has proven no more maintenanceintensive than a TZ250. Pistons and cranks last a full TT meeting, and it’s treated to new rubbers, clips and so-on every year just to be safe

begs for a set of big jets, with keenly-timed ignition to get the most from the motor. “Eight minutes later, you’re on a mountain, in thin air,” Clive points out. “A four-stroke can deal with that, even compensate for it, but a carburetted two-stroke is always a compromise. Especially when we have to consider longer-term reliablity.” Jetting and ignition were an educated guess, selected to balance the varying running conditions. Transmission ratios are another variable – not strictly accommodated for by the Yamaha kit, but Clive’s wealth of data from their modern bike racing programme came in useful. “I looked at what speeds our bikes were doing on the straights, the corners, the hairpins, and equated that to the performance of the YZR. You know roughly the speed you’ll be doing at Ramsey Hairpin, and the revs it needs to hit at Sulby, so I selected the ratios based on that. And

we’ve never had to touch them since.” The bike was shaken down on a couple of short-circuit trackdays, then shipped out to the Isle of Man with very few changes, beyond one that ranks as about the strangest Clive has ever been asked for by a rider. “‘Make the brakes worse!’, Bruce asked. I’ve never been asked for that, but it was overbraked and hard to control, so we changed pad material to soften the bite for him. It must have helped, though. It won first time out, and set the first lap record for the Classic F1 race, at 123.894mph. “Compare that with Foggy’s lap on the OW01 (123.61mph), on a comparable factory Yamaha for the same period. An incredible record that stood for seven years, and Bruce was able to match it in that first year. We obviously take some credit for the bike, but it’s Bruce who makes it successful. “If you ever listen to him out of the slow corners, he’s gently driving out – at

“IT WON FIRST TIME OUT, AND SET THE FIRST LAP RECORD FOR THE CLASSIC F1 RACE AT 123.894MPH. COMPARE THAT WITH FOGGY’S LAP ON THE OW01 (123.61MPH)”

the Gooseneck, Governor’s… He’s not murdering the clutch, because I’ve asked him to be gentle on the bike so it lasts. It’s about winning at the slowest possible pace – if we break it, it’s possible we may not be able to run it again, and spares are finite.

The only way to make it last is to be gentle with it. Even so, Anstey seldom fails to make it fly Practical Sportsbikes 59


Padgett’s YZR500

Although since we raced it, people have come out of the woodwork who used to run them – they’ve seen what we’re doing, love that we’re racing it, and offering the parts they have leftover to us. They’re not free, but it’s surprising what’s out there. We probably sold the parts to them in the first place.” The bike has been near-faultless. Only a broken mounting tab on a top expansion chamber in 2015 mars the reliability record. Compare that with the Team Classic Suzuki F1 bike, which has hit back at Michael Dunlop’s, ah... uncompromising riding style more than once… “Bruce came in, and I went running through the paddock and got a wire coathanger. We tied the exhaust up with it, and he recovered to fifth! When I looked at the brackets, I should have realised it wouldn’t

be enough – they’re built to be lightweight and nobody ever thought they’d be needed after the season the bike was built for. That is the only problem we’ve had, the rest has just been refinement.” There’s no sign of retirement for the YZR yet: the spares situation is in hand, sponsors Milenco have never wavered on their financial support of the effort despite the pandemic’s effects, and Bruce is well on the way to recovery from cancer. He is gagging to take ‘his’ bike back from the care of Conor Cummins. “We couldn’t take Bruce’s name off the bike, and Conor was happy with that,” Clive says. The only shame is there’s no Classic TT this year, so it’s unlikely the bike will be seen in public until 2022. It’ll be worth the wait, though.

Winner, first time out. Anstey’s the boss

At an estimated 130kg ready to rip... 60 Practical Sportsbikes


Our B-roads used to be ruled by performance bikes with fairings. Not any more Words Tim Thompson | Photography Chippy Wood

76

PERFORMANCEBIKES.CO.UK | JULY 2021


MOTHERS OF Yamaha have often been first with technical innovations that have fundamentally changed how motorcycles perform. Let’s take a look at a few Words: Jim Moore| Pictures: Bauer archive

When chassis technology got serious 62 Practical Sportsbikes


Mothers of invention

1. REED VALVES Yamaha didn’t invent the reed valve. They were used in water pumps, bellows and musical instruments centuries before they ever came into contact with an internal combustion engine. The Japanese manufacturer was, however, a pioneer in using the technology to enhance the performance of two-stroke engines, from its 1973 RD350 onwards. Reed valves allow a more precise mixture flow into the crankcase than simple piston porting (opening and closing through crankcase pressure – determined by the piston’s position in its stroke). This extra element of induction control allowed Yamaha to further refine cylinder porting for maximum performance

while benefitting from extra low and midrange torque generated by reed valve intervention. This relatively simple adaptation to the induction cycle opened up the two-stroke engine’s potential more than any other previous advance. Once Yamaha had fitted reed valves to the RD350, and all RD models thereafter, the days of simple piston-ported strokers were numbered and it wasn’t long before other manufacturers followed suit. Kawasaki even doubled up its induction options by combining reed and rotary valve systems in the same engine (AR125, KR250), but as with so many two-stroke advances it was Yamaha’s initiatives that forged the way. Yamaha later refined its reed valve intake system with YEIS (Yamaha Energy Induction System), a remote reservoir to hold incoming fuel on the exhaust stroke that is then released into the fuel/air mix to further boost the intake charge. Yam claimed YEIS increased torque, smoothed out carburation and improved fuel efficiency by 10%.

2. TWO-STROKE EXHAUST VALVES Variable port timing, or the powervalve if we’re using the vernacular, is perhaps Yamaha’s greatest gift to the two-stroke world. Up until the firm from Iwata had its stroke of genius, two-stroke tuning was the mechanical equivalent of robbing Peter to pay Paul.

Practical Sportsbikes 63


A power valve is nothing more than a variable exhaust port height – simple, and clever

A sea change in frame design, and a Yamaha first

Tuning for increased top-end inevitably meant sacrificing low down drive and saddled the engine with a peaky, often hard to exploit, delivery. In other words, port timing dictates the nature of an engine’s power characteristics. This was not an issue on fast, flowing racetracks, but keeping a highlystrung two-stroke on the boil on circuits peppered with slower turns and hairpins could be a total pain. Hell, even getting off the line at the start of a race was a bind. Yamaha’s solution was as simple as it was cunning. By placing a mechanically operated rotating drum just forward of the exhaust port the port’s height, or timing, could be altered in real time, thus providing both bottom and top-end drive. The system was first tried on the factory YZR500 racers and operated by a centrifugal governor system – this was later replaced by an electronically-controlled servo motor. By 1983 YPVS had made it on to the road on the RD350LCII. Obviously, Yamaha patents prevented other manufacturers from copying the design wholesale, but the development was so important to two-stroke performance, particularly in GP racing, that before long all the factories had their own take on variable port timing. The technology’s impact on the street was made all the more obvious by the fact that the RD350LC became known more often than not simply as ‘The Powervalve’ or ‘YPVS’.

3. BEAM FRAMES The aluminium beam frame revolutionised sportsbikes in the 1980s and, as was often the case with new technology around that time, Yamaha was the first manufacturer to run with the design. By the mid-1970s power outputs were far exceeding the capability of chassis and tyres, particularly in racing, so manufacturers shored-up basic cradle frames with more and more bracing. But bracing adds weight and merely papers over the cracks rather than tackling the problem at source. By 1980 the cradle frame had far outlived its usefulness, especially in Grand Prix racing. Yamaha and Suzuki were the first to

It may be made out of old beer cans, and it’s never what you’d call elegant – but it works 64 Practical Sportsbikes

make the leap from tubular steel frames to box-section aluminium – Kawasaki’s and Honda’s monocoque experiments with the KR500 and NR500 proved to be a technical cul-de-sac. Yamaha’s 1983 YZR500 OW70 used the first recognizable beam frame, although the previous year’s OW61 paved the way with its heavily reinforced headstock area. Frame rigidity and high-speed stability proved to be advantages of the OW70’s new design, even if Kenny Roberts was ultimately beaten to the 500 crown that year by Freddie Spencer on his nimble yet pesky NS500 triple. Yam was first to get a beam frame to the road, too, on the 1985 (Japan release) TZR250. The design proved even more beneficial for four-strokes. Not only was a beam frame light and stiff, it also proved perfect for accommodating a larger airbox above the engine, allowing a more direct inlet tract and therefore increasing performance (see Chassis/Motor Integration). That was 35 years ago, and for four-cylinder superbikes and GP bikes alike there hasn’t yet been a better solution to holding a bike together.


Mothers of invention Much like YPVS, the EXUP system is a simple device

4. EXUP It was fitting that the manufacturer who revolutionised two-stroke performance with a rotating peg should do the same for fourbangers. OK, so Yam’s Exhaust Ultimate Powervalve (crap name, great idea) is more of a blade than a valve, but let’s not quibble. The catalyst for developing the EXUP valve was the same that brought about YPVS: tuning for top-end inevitably robs a motor of bottom-end and midrange torque. By positioning a servo-controlled rotating blade at the point in the exhaust where the headers meet, Yamaha worked out that they could alter pressure waves within the system and thereby trick the motor into thinking it was wearing a pipe of different lengths depending on where it was in the rev range. At low rpm the blade closed, restricting flow to a minimum before opening up fully at high rpm for unrestricted flow and therefore maximum power. Like YPVS, EXUP is cunningly simple. Similar systems were eventually adopted by rival manufacturers, and in recent years exhaust tuning devices like these have come into their own for an altogether more contemporary reason. We live in times when engines must, by law, be made cleaner and quieter with every new tweak to legislation, and versions of Yamaha’s EXUP design have become key to cutting the dB levels and emissions of many new vehicles – both bikes and cars. Euro 4/5 regs have come down particularly hard on engine noise, and thanks to Yamaha’s quest to make your FZR1000 faster and easier to ride quickly back in ’89, your car can whisk along unnoticed too.

5. STACKED GEARBOXES It seems so obvious now, but up until Yamaha launched the XTZ750 Super Ténéré back in 1989 the accepted position for a bike’s gearbox was behind the engine; seems a reasonable set-up given the required direction of transfer of power to the rear wheel. But was it an ideal solution? Not if you’re trying to design a bike that’s stable and nimble. Conventional (ie, pre ’89) gearboxes are long, taking up too much space between a bike’s wheel spindles. This limits the length of swingarm that can be fitted. In other words, a proper headache for chassis designers. Yamaha’s answer to the problem was to position the gearbox vertically rather than horizontally, thus considerably reducing an engine’s overall length. Cue a round of applause from the chassis designers. Yamaha’s gearbox repositioning really came into its own when the firm was designing a new superbike to topple Honda’s FireBlade. The bike needed to be compact, but also stable and able to

“YAMAHA WORKED OUT THEY COULD ALTER PRESSURE WAVES WITHIN THE SYSTEM AND THEREBY TRICK THE MOTOR”

Super Ténéré (above) was first with a stacked gearbox in 1989. R1 was next


Mothers of invention

Liquid-cooling for the masses

accelerate hard without lofting its front wheel at the slightest whiff of throttle. By positioning the gearbox vertically behind the engine block the R1’s engineers were able to employ a longer swingarm, thereby ensuring high speed stability and acceleration without compromising the bike’s modest wheelbase – the same lateral thinking that was behind Yamaha’s original Genesis concept. Stacked gearboxes are now the norm. Little did we know at the time that the XTZ750 would start a trend…

liquid-cooled two-strokes when dinosaurs roamed the earth, but yet again it was Yamaha who gave the idea the momentum to make a real impact on bike design. Yamaha’s RD-LCs (or RZeeees if you’re tuning in from across the pond) brought liquid-cooling to the masses. Honda gave it a go, first with the GL1000 and then the CX500 but neither machine had a great influence on shaping future bike design – certainly not in the way the 250 and 350LC did. All sporty two-strokes post-LC were liquid-cooled; the same can’t be said for

6. LIQUID-COOLING Yes, yes, we know, others did it first, most notably Suzuki with its GT750 and RE5 Wankel, and Scott made its name building

Closer tolerances and more power via liquidcooling. Yes, please

tourers or oddball V-twins after the ’Wing and CX. The advantages of liquid-cooling unlocked motorcycle design during the 1980s. More effective and consistent engine cooling allowed engineers to design more powerful engines, and in turn experiment with technology that would further enhance performance. And so, the cycle rolled on. Liquid-cooling didn’t only allow manufacturers to exploit advances in engine performance and technology. Without LC motors aerodynamics would have suffered, too – removing powersapping heat from an air-cooled lump encased by a full fairing is nowhere near as easy or efficient as when you’ve got a big radiator and fan to do the job. Imagine an air-cooled R1; ridiculous, right? Even Suzuki’s early GSX-Rs used liquid – in their case engine oil – to shift heat from their motors, so we’ve got a lot to thank Yamaha, and specifically the Elsie, for.

7. CHASSIS/ENGINE INTEGRATION Yamaha has never blindly followed convention. In fact, the Japanese giant has usually proved to be at its very best when plying its trade at the very cutting 66 Practical Sportsbikes


“IT SOUNDS ABSOLUTELY LUDICROUS NOW, BUT BACK IN THE 1970S IT WAS COMMON FOR THE TEAM DESIGNING A BIKE’S CHASSIS TO HAVE MINIMAL COMMUNICATION WITH THE ENGINEERS CREATING THAT BIKE’S ENGINE ” edge of development. By the early ’80s the Iwata, Shizuoka-based firm was thinking further outside the box than any other manufacturer when it came to chassis design. Yam’s GP programme was experimenting with box-section aluminium, and in doing so moving ever closer to the beam frame design that would become the blueprint for sportsbikes for the next 40 years and beyond. Yamaha’s road bike designers were benefitting from their GP engineers’ knowledge and were using that expertise to bring about a new, previously untried concept – designing a chassis and motor which would have a positive effect on each other. It sounds ludicrous now, but back in the 1970s it was common for the team designing a bike’s chassis to have minimal communication with the engineers creating said bike’s engine. Yamaha’s Genesis programme was a complete engineering concept, established around an inline-four, four-stroke engine inclined forward in the chassis to lower the bike’s C of G, offer a 50/50 weight distribution and improved stability. As Yamaha trumpeted at the time, the engine and chassis were “each developed with the other in mind”. The first expression of this Genesis concept was the FZ750. The beam-framed FZR1000 and 750 took it to the next level. Ultimately, by canting the engine’s cylinder block forward by 45º, Yamaha was able to open up the area above the engine

to accommodate a larger than normal airbox, and to gain a more direct induction path to the combustion chambers, both of which helped increase performance. Three decades on, and now all motorcycles are built this way.

8. MONOSHOCK SUSPENSION Yamaha has scored some impressive technical ‘firsts’ over the years, but this is perhaps the most important to motorcycling as a whole. Alternatives to the conventional twin-shock rear-end had been tried with varying degrees of success prior to Yamaha bolting a cantilever monoshock to its factory YZ250 motocrosser back in 1973.

That was a definitive line in the sand in terms of rear suspension development, and one from which twin-shocks would cease to be relevant in performance riding circles. It was Belgian engineer Lucien Tielgens who came up with the idea in 1972. Works Yamaha MX rider Toshinori Suzuki got word of Tielgens’ invention and quickly passed the info onto Japan via Yamaha Europe. By the start of the following season Yamaha had a working prototype that proved the system’s performance benefits by winning the opening round of the AllJapan MX championship. A monoshock – Yamaha christened its system Monocross on account of Yamaha’s 1976 production YZ250 with Monocross rear suspension

Practical Sportsbikes 67


Mothers of invention Dreary XJ750 had the first computerised monitoring system 40 years ago

From a sidestand warning light to full-on ride-by-wire in just 25 years

“MORE COMMODORE 64 THAN APPLE MAC BUT STILL A GLANCE INTO THE FUTURE WAY BACK IN 1981” its motocross origins – gives the rear suspension a single point of focus through which to dampen forces exerted on the back wheel. It also allows the rear-end more movement and a longer stroke so, as Yamaha discovered, it makes a bike smoother to ride, more stable, lighter and less likely to lose damping over uneven surfaces – all of which equals faster lap times. Later, more sophisticated systems did away with the original cantilever design and added rising-rate damping to match damping force to wheel position.

9. COMPUTERISED

MONITORING SYSTEM

Modern bikes are run by computers. The latest range of superbikes and adventure machines have every area of componentry constantly monitored, tweaked and refined by microprocessors, from fuelling and ignition, to emissions, braking and even suspension. But know this: Yamaha were the first to come up with a computerised monitoring system, way back in 1981. Yup, 40 years ago. Yam’s first stab at an intelligent monitoring system, as seen on the hugely underwhelming XJ750 Seca, was more Commodore 64 than Apple Mac, but it was still a glance into a future that wouldn’t gain traction as a mainstream motorcycle feature for at least a couple more decades. 68 Practical Sportsbikes

In practice the XJ’s Blake’s 7 tech consisted of sensors around the bike that linked to a microcomputer (emphasis on micro…) then onward to the LCD dash which alerted the rider of any issues with the headlamp, tail/brake light, fuel level, battery, oil pressure or sidestand. Should the rider have felt the need to check all systems on the bike pre-ride, for either practical or entertainment purposes, they could press the ‘check’ which set the microprocessor off on a scan through all monitored areas in sequence. Other manufacturers were quick to follow with similar systems – Honda with the VF750S and CX500T, and Kawasaki deploying an electronic brain on its DFI equipped GPz1100 and Z750T – but it was Yamaha who got there first. Again.

10. RIDE-BY-WIRE THROTTLE Anyone who followed MotoGP back in the early 2000s will be familiar with the term ‘ride-by-wire’ throttle. Back then the electronic throttle system made Aprilia’s vicious 990 ‘Cube’ an even bigger pig to ride than it needed to be. At that time the technology, that does away with conventional throttle cables and instead relies on an electrical connection between wrist and injectors, was common on cars, but was still in its infancy in the two-wheeled world. Throttle connection and

feel is imperative on a bike and at that time ride-by-wire wasn’t delivering. Fast forward to 2006, however, and Yamaha had not only mastered the intricacies of ride-by-wire, they’d stuck it on their flagship middleweight the YZF-R6. The ‘why’ is easy to answer. Ever stricter emissions regs demand ever smarter solutions, and a ride-by-wire throttle is a clever way of ensuring the motor only ever gets the fuel it needs – far more efficient to use a micro-computer to meter the required fuel/air mix than a human hand/brain. Ride-by-wire also opens up a whole range of fantastic gadgets now commonplace on all sorts of modern bikes: ride mode options for sport, rain or street, for example, and cruise control – another fuel-efficient boon that helps cut emissions into the bargain. So, when you ask, ‘what has Yamaha ever done for me?’ it’s perhaps a lot more than you might think.


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YAMAHA MT-09SP VS KTM DUKE 890 R Usable power, high spec and sensible money mid-weight nakeds on test

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THE PEOPLE’S GRAND PRIX BIKE How Yamaha’s amazing TZ ruled The World – and club racing too

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2009 YAM R1 REVISITED Chris convinces us it’s not only a classic, but the ideal hotrod for the road


Ekerold (left), Aussie Jeff Sayle (14) and Toni Mang all set for the 1980 350cc British Grand Prix

TZ how to make a Huewen knew

fly

“What we did then was the analogue version of what they do now with all the data-recording – big charts with everything written down – ignition, spark plug, squish and all that – so that everything correlated” As the quest for a better TZ intensified, an industry of engine tuners and chassis builders grew up around Europe to satisfy the demands of the faster, wealthier riders chasing big-money glory. Harold Bartol, Hans Hummel, Helmut Fath and others produced cylinders, Austrian company Hoeckle made crankshafts and everyone from Harris to Bimota and Maxton to Nico Bakker fabricated chassis. In 1984 the TZ250 won its last world title with Sarron, who ran Hummel cylinders, a Hoeckle crank, and tasty French-made bodywork, bankrolled by Gauloises cash. “I always used Hoeckle cranks because they were better quality than the standard cranks, so they ran true for longer and gave you better mileage,” Huewen recalls. “Hoeckles had a different feel too. I think they were a bit heavier, so they gave you a bit more midrange. But some people liked to lighten their crankshafts so the engine would spin-up quicker. “I think a big reason why the richer teams had faster bikes wasn’t so much that they bought loads of trick gear for them, it was more that they could afford to pick out the best parts to get the closest tolerances, because TZs were all mass-production stuff. “A lot of it was about finding the right combination of cylinder, squish, ignition, jetting, spark plug and exhaust. I always ran Hitachi ignition because you could individually time each cylinder, which made a massive difference, because the squish value of each cylinder was never exactly the same. You’d do a lot of work getting them as close as possible, using a burette to measuring compression ratios, and so on. “What we did then was the analogue version of what they do now with all the data-recording – big charts with everything written down – ignition, spark plug, squish and all that – so that everything correlated. “The best thing was that you could also use the 350 in 500 races, which ran 351cc to 500cc, at smaller events. You’d declare your 500 as a 352cc or whatever, because no one ever bothered to measure the engines. In fact you could enter the same bike in the 250, 350 and 500 classes, just swapping the cylinders and heads for the 250 race, because the bottom half of the 250 and 350 were the same.” Before Huewen went pro he was a car mechanic, specialising in automatic transmissions, so knew about engines and gearboxes. “Instead of putting EP80 oil in the gearbox – like Yamaha told you – I used automatic transmission oil which was like piss compared to the thick EP80 stuff, so it allowed everything to turn more freely and quickly.” Ekerold, on his Bimota-framed TZ350, leading Toni Mang

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TZ RULES THE WORLD

Last of the parallel twin TZs, the 1990 W

Yamaha’s TZ250 and TZ350 parallel twin were as simple and effective as it’s possible to get in racing. The 250 started as the TZ250A in 1973 and ended as the TZ250W. The shorter-lived 350 started at A and ended at G. Most years Yamaha made upgrades to the machines, each model eagerly awaited by racers from Europe to the USA and from Japan to Australia. The first big improvement, in 1976, was monoshock rear ends, initially developed on Yamaha motocross bikes. That year a brand new TZ250 cost £1500, the 350 an extra 50 quid. Eleven grand in today’s money. Over the next decade most improvements were to the engine. Inlet, transfer and exhaust ports grew in size and number until there was so little cylinder wall left that Yamaha added

bridges in some ports, to stop rings snagging, and made the engine run backwards, so that piston loads were better distributed. And then then trick bits started to arrive: Power Jet carburettors (of dubious benefit, according to many riders) and the powervalve system that adjusted exhaust-port height, to allow more peak horsepower without sacrificing midrange. In 1985 Yamaha switched from piston-port induction to crankcase reed-valve induction, again boosting low-rpm power and thus allowing designers to chase more top-end. The following year came the biggest chassis change since the monoshock – the tubular steel frame was replaced by an aluminium Deltabox, mimicking the 500s of that era.

1974: Mortimer in the back of the soft-top with the Sheilas after winning at Opatija (in what was then Yugoslavia). That’s how winners roll, kids. Be a winner

And two years later Yamaha reversed the cylinders, allowing a straight run for the expansion chambers exiting to the rear and delivering cooler air to the carburettors in front of the engine. It all changed in 1991; the TZ250 became a V-twin, like Yamaha’s factory YZR250 and Honda’s NSR250.

This is how it all started: simple, effective, fast

Huewen bought his first new TZ in 1978, a TZ350E. “It was delivered in a crate to where I worked, the Three Musketeers garage, on the A428 outside Northampton. I ran the thing in on the road, riding up and down the A428, because that’s what you did back then!” The Huewen and Mortimer race teams may have been humble affairs but there was good money to be made if you had the talent and the knowhow. “One year I made enough money to walk into an estate agent and buy a house with cash,” recalls Mortimer. “Me and my wife wanted somewhere near a port, so we went for Seaford, near Newhaven in Sussex. This house was going for £11,995 [£190,000 now], so I told the estate agent I’d like to pay for it today. ‘How are you going to do that?’, he asked. I said, ‘I’ve got the cash in the caravan’. We used to keep our money in a little metal box. He must’ve thought I was a bank robber or something.”

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Our B-roads used to be ruled by performance bikes with fairings. Not any more Words Tim Thompson | Photography Chippy Wood

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MT-09 SP V DUKE 890 R Both machines have moved on hugely from their earlier incarnations

L

IKE many, I stepped off the first Yamaha MT-09 wondering if I’d missed something. A ride on a bike full of wicked promise had been marred by wallowing rear suspension and a front-end that refused to bite into turns. There was a raucous new cross-plane triple and a cheeky hint of TDR250 too, but the MT’s throttle response was too spiky to make it much fun. The MT-09 became an immediate sales success but, back in 2013, it was certainly no performance bike. Eight summers later I’m riding the same Leicestershire B-road, but feel like I’m on a different planet. This MT-09 has everything under control and smothers the crests and bumps of the B676 with a plush, measured ride. A backed throttle loads its front Bridgestone S22 just-so, then a shove on the high, wide ’bars sends it straight to wherever I’m looking. And when I open its throttle again, a snarl from the exhaust collides with the intake’s guttural roar, and the MT digs in and goes. Goes like stink. Despite being somewhat miscast as a supermotostreetfighter thingy all those years ago, the MT-09 has finally evolved into, simply, a bloody good motorbike and perhaps the most complete sports-naked around. It sounds mighty, its drive is addictive. And deep into the day’s third tank of fuel, it hit me how perfectly set up and proportional it is to the roads we actually ride. Its cross-plane triple spews no nonsense entertainment and is, in its 2021 spec, truly special, with the extensively revamped chassis and new suite of lean-sensitive electronics not too far behind – particularly in this, its SP guise. Ah yes, the SP. That’s a base MT-09 (£9002) plus £1200, which brings us SP colours, a double-stitched seat, cruise control, black ’bars and levers, a brushedally finish to the swingarm, and a dark-smoke finish to the front brake reservoir. Mainly, though, it brings a suspension upgrade: an Öhlins shock with a remote hydraulic preload adjuster in for the KYB unit at the rear and higher spec 41mm KYB forks with DLC stanchions up front. And it’s the springs and dampers that you want.

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MT-09 SP V DUKE 890 R

Plainly having a ball. The MT-09 has truly come of age in 2021

But we have to start with the that triple. Essentially all-new with a 3mm longer-stroke, it goes up in capacity from 847cc to 889cc and as well as being lighter and – miraculously – Euro5 compliant gets four extra bhp to make 117bhp at 10,000rpm. But it’s the midrange torque that defines it and, for that matter, pretty much the whole MT-09 experience, too. Its new 69lb.ft peak is six per cent higher and arrives 1500rpm earlier than the older engine. From as low as 3000rpm it churns the stuff out, urging the MT forward with gravelly intent. At 5000rpm – just over half revs

“The MT now flicks easily through roundabouts and absolutely nails high-speed direction changes”

– the tacho’s rpm bar turns from white to green and the bike drives even harder before the tacho flashes urgent orange at 9000rpm, begging you to give the barely noticed up-and-down quick-shifter a nudge. It’s loves to be revved hard, but in daily life the MT lives happily mid tacho, where it’s all short-shifts and breezy overtakes with the exhaust’s twin-spouts boffing happily on the upshift. Throttle response in the sportier of the two preset riding modes is bubbly but never abrupt, while Yamaha’s four-piston calipers and 298mm discs are typically efficient.

And to think Foxeyes were radical back in 1993. And this will look predictably old hat in 2051

“If it is right, it will look right.” That’s what the old Bauhaus crew believed. It is, and it does


There’s almost nothing to it, no excess, no fat, just 190kg dripping wet, ready to go

Hard to know whether this little lot is £1200 better than the gear on the non-SP bike. If you believe it is, then it is

And it’s a lovely ride, one enhanced by clear mirrors, a supportive seat and new 3.5-inch TFT dash that is extra-tiny but easily readable (with the right glasses on). Adjustable ’bars mount on risers and are noticeably higher than the KTM Duke 890 R’s flatties. So you sit upright, open stance, and take the icy blast on the chin. Despite the absence of a steering damper, there’s no flap from the extensively revised chassis, just the odd wiggle to show it’s alive. The new frame is lighter, more compact and significantly stiffer than before, but it’s the lowered headstock that grabs the headlines. By dropping the front of the bike 30mm and bringing more weight over the front wheel, Yamaha have finally addressed the MT-09’s reluctance to turn. Everyone who rode our test MT-09 SP praised its undemanding handling. And while it’s not bursting with corner speed like the 890 R, no-one said it didn’t want to turn either. The freakishly agile KTM will clear off on a trackday and even makes the Yamaha feel borderline ponderous when you jump between bikes. But the MT now flicks easily through roundabouts and absolutely nails high-speed direction changes. Back on that bumpy Leicestershire B-road, it’s in total charge. Where the Duke is shimmying on its long-travel springs, the MT is alive but calmer. It flows, it sweeps, it’s a bike to ride all day – and the SP’s cruise control makes that easier than ever. Tall riders fit as well as short ones, and tricky low-speed manoeuvres are manageable by all. There’s no lack of quality and detailing. Yamaha’s new and lighter Spin Forged wheels ooze garage appeal, while frame drillings that allow the footrests to be raised and more rear set are a brilliant touch. The shock’s remote preload adjuster and an overall deep gloss finish punch above the SP’s price tag, though not the seat unit, which is loose and rattly. No one who rode our SP quite got the new MT ‘coverless’ look, though. After all, there’s what could be a reg/rec unit where you’d expect to find a side-panel, and no exhaust pipe in the traditional sense. The base MT-09 has had a serious revamp this year and, in the new CP3, has a triple to match anything on Triumph’s playlist. Before riding this SP version, I grabbed a morning on the non-Öhlins bike, which hasn’t the ride quality of the more expensive machine but didn’t at any point feel lacking on the awful roads near my gaff. The SP is, marginally, a better ride but the decision on whether to go the extra 1200 quid could easily be made by your dealer and what they’re offering. Whichever, this is a sports-naked that’s truly come of age.

Stoppers are as good as ever, TFT dash panel does the job, but it’s the new engine and chassis that star

If you’ve never sampled a triple, you owe it to yourself

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MT-09 SP V DUKE 890 R

It’s a full-on experience, and there’s nothing wrong with that. All good, in fact

KTM Duke 890 R Introduced during lockdown last year, the KTM Duke 890 R has had a low profile start to life. But from the moment we read the spec sheet of the original Duke 790 in 2018, we knew an R was coming. A 790 with more power, torque and ground clearance, the right brakes and suspension, and all the pillion kit jettisoned would indeed be a bike built to corner and then corner some more. It had to be. At its heart is the 890cc update of the versatile LC8c, which makes 121bhp at 9250rpm (six bhp up on the base 890 Duke) and 73lb.ft at 7750rpm, and bristles with lean-sensitive electronics and crisp Dell’Ortodeveloped fuel injection. But if the MT-09 SP is a good chassis with an epic engine, this is the opposite, which is no criticism of the Austrian twin, simply an acknowledgment of the R’s extraordinary focus.

“You feel poised and suitably up for it, which is handy because the KTM doesn’t really do quiet days”

The engine exists to propel the bike between corners and, despite making similar numbers to the MT-09, is relatively peaky. You have to stir the gearbox more, especially for overtakes into headwinds, and the change can be sticky with or without the optional Quickshifter+ fitted as part of the Tech Pack installed on our bike. At low road speeds it clatters and chuffs like the old 790, and there’s the same driveline rustle of the smaller twin too. But this is smoother and sweeter. A new, heavier crank spins up frictionlessly. Throttle pick up is beautiful, too. And the bike drives hard, jumping out of roundabouts, energised and up for life. Soon I stopped blaming the twin for not being a Yamaha triple and instead began to admire its exceptional slimness (knees feel like they are touching) and the way it gathers speed, tirelessly feeding its speed-hungry chassis.

You have to love the way front-ends have evolved over the years, both cosmetically and functionally

It couldn’t be anything other than a KTM. Intense, focussed – and real world rapid


You sit in an MT-09 but on top of an 890 R, with its flat ’bars noticeably lower. The seat is high (at 834mm) and also flat, with higher, rearset ’pegs tilting you into the breeze. Your nose hovers over the headstock, helmet parting the air, and when you glance down there is nothing to see except a lonesome dash. Mirrors are semi-blurred but readable, the TFT display refreshingly simple, though, like the MT’s, susceptible to glare when the sun’s over your shoulder. Before we get into the corners, I should mention that the 890 R is impeccably balanced, even at walking pace. At 166 kilos dry it feels as light as it looks and, discounting ’bars and exhaust, is no wider than its reg-plate, making it a fantastically slippery customer in town or traffic. Out in the country, however, is where it all happens. You feel poised and suitably up for it, which is handy because the 890 R doesn’t really do quiet days. On twisting roads it flows and shimmers like mercury, carrying its corner speed as only a handful of bikes can. The steering’s so light and direct that, after stepping off the Yamaha, it was easy to over-input and steer for the near-side grass. All it needs is a whiff of ’bar, perhaps a brush of the brakes to load the tyre, and it arrows in, weightless and secure. There’s a more intimate connection with the road than with the plusher Yamaha. The Duke’s trackfocused Michelin Power Cup 2s steer fast and are full of grip – the bike feels like it can lean forever. Drink in the moment, then pick up the throttle and squirt again. Long-travel WP Apex suspension (140mm front, 150mm rear) hasn’t the absolute ride quality of, say, the 1290 Super Duke R, but it’s far more supportive and controlled than the old 790’s non-adjustable units, though it is without preload adjustment on the forks. Front brakes are radial-mounted Brembo Stylema paired with 320mm discs and lean-sensitive ABS and, to be blunt, I can’t see anything out-braking an 890 R on a trackday this summer.

Top: 119bhp and 73lb.ft are huge numbers for an 890cc twin. Above: massive stopping power for a slip of a thing like this. Above right: plain and simple, so thanks for that

THE SPECS

There is a downside to its agility. The R’s steep and twitchy front-end can turn flighty if you hit cats eyes or bumps when accelerating, especially if you’re carrying some lean. There’s a steering damper and little real drama, but it is distracting. When the 890 and MT reach the end of a brisk stretch of road, it’s usually the KTM rider whose heart’s beating faster. In terms of build and finish the 890 R leans more towards the 390 Duke than the premium 1290 Super Duke R. I love its minimalism, though, and everything from the four-button grouping on the left handlebar cluster to the rubber-topped ’pegs and common-sense dash strikes the right note.

ENGINE Type: liquid-cooled, dohc, 12v inline triple Capacity: 889cc Bore x stroke: 78.0 x 62.1mm Fuelling: ride-by-wire electronic fuel injection Power: 117bhp@10,000rpm (claimed) Torque: 69lb.ft@7000rpm (claimed) CHASSIS Frame: aluminium Deltabox Front suspension: 41mm KYB upside-down forks with DLC. Fully adjustable Rear suspension: Öhlins monoshock. Fully adjustable with remote preload adjuster Front brakes: 2 x 298mm discs, four-piston radial-mount calipers Rear brake: 245mm disc with sliding-piston caliper DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 1430mm Rake/trail: 25°/108mm Weight: 190kg (wet) Seat height: 825mm Fuel capacity: 14 litres

Type: liquid-cooled, dohc, 8v parallel twin Capacity: 890cc Bore x stroke: 90.7 x 68.8mm Fuelling: ride-by-wire electronic fuel injection Power: 119bhp@9250rpm (claimed) Torque: 73lb.ft@7750rpm (claimed)

Frame: steel, engine as stressed member Front suspension: 43mm APEX upside-down forks; adjustable compression and rebound damping Rear suspension: Monoshock APEX WP; adjustable preload, compression (high and low) and rebound damping Front brakes: 2 x 320mm discs, four-piston Brembo Stylema radial-mount calipers Rear brake: 240mm disc with Brembo sliding-piston caliper

Verdict Not everyone buys into the KTM’s intensity. Consensus among those who rode it was that unless you do most of your riding at Cadwell Park or in the Alps, it sits behind the MT-09 SP which, at a remarkable £10,202, is £447 cheaper too. For me, though, the energy and pure cornering ability of the 890 R are compelling. Even two hundred horsepower and a fairing full of winglets will count for little if you encounter the KTM in its natural habitat. Yes, it’s over-the-top and faintly ridiculous, but it’s also vitally important that we have bikes like this.

Wheelbase: 1482mm Rake/trail: 24.3º/99.7mm Weight: 166kg (dry) Seat height: 834mm Fuel capacity: 14 litres

BUYING Price: £10,202 Contact: www.yamaha-motor.eu

Price: £10,649 (£11,327 with Tech Pack as tested) Contact: www.ktm.com

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All the major European manufacturers are now parading heavy-hitting supernakeds, but BMW’s version still takes some beating Words Chris Newbigging | Photography James Wright

A

verage speed cameras. Dash cameras. Huge potholes. 24/7 traffic. This is the reality of road riding in vast swathes of the UK now, unless you live in a remote part of Scotland or Wales, where you can subtract a couple of those in exchange for biblical rain/sheep. It’s against this backdrop many road riders now question the direction manufacturers have taken with new models. Four manufacturers offer sportsbikes with upwards of 200bhp: more than any fearsome 500GP bike put out, yet approved for use on the beaten-up highways of Great Britain. It doesn’t add up any more, does it? Supernakeds, in theory, offer high-tech, and high excitement, but with a road focus that makes them less excessive, and more fun. In theory. But even there, the Super Duke, Tuono, Streetfighter and Speed Triple claim 170bhp or more. It’s all in danger of getting out of hand. So the new S1000R makes a refreshing change: peak power remains at a claimed 165bhp despite an all-new engine derived closely from the S1000RR, minus the Shift Cam system which switches between high/low rpm lobes. The rest of the bike is a lift from the recent S1000RR with minor tweaks to suit. New frame (more flex for more feel), new suspension (better hydraulic components, with more sophisticated electronic control if you select that option), better electronics, a new dash, and so on. If there is a bell or whistle available for a motorcycle in 2021, it’s here, or can be added as an option. It’s also 8kg lighter. The old one was a good bike, competent, useful. Not enticing adjectives for a recreational vehicle, a source of fun. It carried a bit too much weight, the electronic suspension wasn’t the greatest for ride or feel, and it generally lacked a bit of spunk. This new one feels more

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OK, so here he is moaning about not having any fun – and then we get this

agile, as you would if you lost that much podge. It’s a little more compact between your knees, and you’re more plugged in to the front end via the flat handlebar. As well requiring a lighter touch at the ’bars, the steering lock has been increased, so it’s happy needling through tight spots at town speed. Initial throttle application doesn’t invoke any snatch, even in the sportier modes. BMW were an earlyish adopter of ride-by-wire, and they’re the best at it. The fully electronic twistgrip is well damped too – light, but not unnaturally so, and it gives good connection, even in Rain mode. It doesn’t feel like it’s had its knackers lopped off despite engine response and traction control firmly at the soft ’n’ safe end. Out of town it remains hard to fault, with strong power everywhere, and impeccable manners. It has a new gearbox with higher ratios from fourth to sixth for more relaxed cruising and lower fuel consumption, so don’t rush to the top of the ’box – no more than fourth is required unless you’re settling into a longer cruise, as the motor is so flexible. It sends a lot of high-frequency vibes your way though, so the overdrive-like top ratios are useful for minimising those as much as anything. There’s no instability, despite the agile feel, when tramping on. Road suspension mode works nicely on the lanes of Lincolnshire, which proved too rough for Dynamic settings. The plusher damping doesn’t come with any unacceptable cost to feel and precision for the most part. If you’re lucky enough to live at the bottom of an impeccably-surfaced, rarely-policed Alpine pass you may feel the need to run the firmer setting. I did switch the preload setting from solo to pillion, which helped it maintain its attitude better – I weigh 80kg and found it would sit down a little and run wide without it.


BMW S1000R

Such changes are easy: one rocker switch on the left cluster lets you change suspension settings or disable the traction control/ABS, while another allows you to dip into the menus on the big TFT dash, which you then navigate in full with a thumbwheel by the left grip. A button on the right switches ride modes, and there’s cruise control within easy reach. A lot of functions, but it all just works – no need for manuals, a few minutes poking around, and you get the measure of the electronic commands. They’re additional features, not distractions. It’s much like the rest of the bike – fuss-free and capable. There are a few little gripes though. The brakes: made by US company Hayes, who primarily make bicycle calipers, have a weird freeplay in the initial lever movement, followed by a bit of bite, then lots of power delivered abruptly. Progression is poor and it’s hard to get a shift on in total confidence, you have to be unduly measured in your applications or blindly trust the ABS to sort out unregulated fistfuls of lever. The stock tyres do it a disservice, too. Pirelli Diablo Rosso IIs are as sporty as you can get without going for a proper trackday tyre. On beautifully-surfaced, warm European B-roads scything through a forest or up a mountain, I’m sure they work a treat. On the neglected UK road network in less than balmy conditions, they never feel like they’re up to temperature, and offer little feel. I found the same in our tyre test last month, and more than once the S1000R’s urgent response overworked the rear. Between feel from the chassis/throttle and the rider aids, it didn’t get ugly, but British owners would benefit from a tyre more forgiving of cool asphalt. I spent an evening on track at Cadwell too, and found much the same: few negatives to report. The brakes are even harder to modulate braking from the top of fifth gear on the back straight with Park corner fast appearing, but the tyres at least are in their operating range and feel

Look, just give us the Brembo four-pots back, please. We’ll forget this indiscretion with the iffy American calipers ever happened, OK?

An 80kg man rides the lanes of Lincolnshire


BMW S1000R

That same 80kg fellow at Lincolnshire’s finest racetrack

great. Flick to Dynamic or the optional, adjustable Dynamic Pro Mode, and give it big licks... the engine is more urgent, throttle response a touch more direct, and suspension firmer, but it remains effective, easy to get on with, and fast. No cornering clearance issues, no fears it’ll reach its limit and tumble into the run-off. It is a damned good answer to the ‘Are sportsbikes too fast?’ question. It fits road riding situations far better while maintaining the high-tech, high-performance feel. It is more fun, but at lower speeds, and it’s happy on minor roads where a sportsbike would feel like a caged animal. The clinical, near-flawless ride is the only possible deal-breaker, as it means the S1000R can still be a little uninspiring, especially compared with the funky twins, triples, Vees and crossplane-crank fours powering its rivals in the class. A plain-Jane, flat-plane four lacks some of the personality those configurations generate: if you’re the sort of person who judges a bike on what it does rather than how it makes you feel though, it’s every bit the bike its rivals are, and a strong contender for the best do-it-all supernaked you can buy.

THE SPECS ENGINE Type: liquid-cooled, dohc 16v inline-four Capacity: 999cc Bore x stroke: 80 x 49.7mm Power: 164bhp@11,000rpm (claimed) Torque: 84lb.ft@9250rpm (claimed) CHASSIS Frame: aluminium-composite bridge, engine as stressed member Front suspension: 45mm USD closed-cartridge fork, preload/compression/rebound adjustable Rear suspension: full-floater monoshock, preload/compression/rebound adjustable Front brakes: 2x 320mm discs, Hayes fourpiston calipers Rear brake: 220mm disc, single-piston caliper

Near flawless ride, so clinical as to be almost uninspiring A plain-Jane, flat-plane four, but what a plain-Jane, flat-plane four it is

DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 1450mm Rake/trail: 24°/96.3mm Wet weight (claimed): 199kg Seat height: 830mm Fuel capacity: 15.5 litres TECHNOLOGY Three rider modes, variable throttle/power maps, adjustable cornering-sensitive traction control, adjustable wheelie control, adjustable engine braking management, adjustable cornering ABS, six-axis IMU, up/down quickshifter, cruise control, Bluetooth connectivity, hill-hold control. Optional semi-active suspension control and fourth riding mode. BUYING Price: from £12,055: £17,090 as tested Contact: bmw-motorrad.co.uk


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“I’d be lying if I didn’t admit to being a bit frustrated.”

PART FOUR WHAT’S THE STORY? Guy and his turbo Hayabusa are aiming for 300mph in a standing mile: a pursuit that has killed most of his rivals in the field. His telly crew shied away from following his project… but we didn’t


PROJECT 300MPH

Guy is trying stuff you’d never give a moment’s thought to on any other type of motorcycle. Like attaching 15kg boxes of lead shot to the swingarm. It’s not normal this big speed lark Words Guy Martin Photography Simon Lee

I

’ve been speaking to a lot of drag boys about what they do with their bikes. They’re hitting 220mph in quarter of a mile – they’re not mucking about. A few have told me I need more power – I’m getting 800bhp on my dyno, and they’re telling me they’re seeing over 1000bhp. I’m not sure I believe them, there’s a lot of bullshit talked around race paddocks, I know that much… The other reason I’m doubting them is because I’m not getting full boost on a run yet, so I’m not even using the power I have. Until I can get it wide open and keep it there, the issue is still making and maintaining boost soon enough. With the size of the turbo, if you shut off, you’ve lost, and that’s the run over. Their suggestion is adding weight to the swingarm to help stability and traction. And we’re not talking a small amount: I’ve made up two aluminium cases for each side of the swingarm, welded them up and put 15kg of lead shot in each one. Any other kind of racing and that would be total madness – power-to-weight ratio is supposed to go up, not down. But when you’ve got well over 3bhp/kg, it’s less of a problem. I had a run out at a Straightliners meet at Elvington. The wind conditions weren’t good to go really fast, but if I can run 240, 250mph that’s quick

Streamliner tail upsets the bike still. Back to stock for now

enough to test something new. I had the lead shot to try, and a new clutch from the USA. Anyway: with the weight, it’s as stable as it’s ever been, so the theory is proved. Before I got on to the weight idea, I’d been offered some BST carbon wheels to use on the bike. I said yes – light wheels are proven elsewhere, so I was up for testing them here. Now I’m not so sure it will be any help. But I’m going to fit them anyway – the front is standard size, but I’ve got a special 17 x 6.85-inch rear ordered – it’ll stretch the 200/55 tyre I use right out, and the benefit in contact patch/grip is worth going backwarks a little on the weight. There is a 280mm disc to go on too, with a Moto2 caliper on it so it has both sensitivity and power, and the lever moved onto the handlebar, which brings me back to the clutch. The standard clutch does the job, with a lock-up pressure plate fitted. Once it’s rolling you don’t touch it, and with the power/wheelbase combination I run, I don’t launch it hard anyway – if you got it boosting off the line it would spin all over, you’d waste your time and have to shut off anyway, so it’s a steady start and build from there. But I wanted to get rid of the clutch lever, to put a rear brake on the handlebar, to control the bike if it gets a wobble on without having to back off the throttle and lose boost pressure. I’ve messed around with adapting the standard rear brake pedal to operate a clutch, but I couldn’t mount a mastercylinder that could move the volume of fluid you need for a clutch slave cylinder, so the only option is one on the handlebars. But then the fairing I use doesn’t leave enough room for two controls on one ’bar. The drag boys in the States had a possible answer again – the really fast boys not only use a lock-up clutch, but a self-actuating clutch too, so you set it up to slip and engage precisely. That’s how they run five-second quarter miles. For me, it just means I can run without the lever. To hit 300mph, I can’t run a wheelie bar or long swingarm, so it won’t help me launch quicker. I’m not sure how much their advice can help me for that reason – they’re geared for 220mph or so, my gearing is good for 311mph. Just as I’m getting going, they’re shutting off. We’re doing different jobs with the same power. Anyway, the clutch was on for Elvington. I can’t have set it right, because it destroyed the clutch. It didn’t just toast the plates a bit either: the heat melted the alloy material on the friction plates, and the metal has oozed out like smashing your hand on a jam sandwich. The friction material is still there though! With the boost and power we’re making, it’s hard to

Box contains 15kg of lead shot. Helps high speed stability

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PROJECT 300MPH

Bottom-end is proving tough. Only a snapped camchain blots the reliability record so far

“You probably know what 5% ethanol in unleaded fuel does to carbs and rubbers, so you can imagine what 85% can do”

tell what’s clutch slip, or wheelspin, or just the speed, and I didn’t shut it off. In the process, it’s lost a load of stack height, and the pressure plate has started eating the rest of it, so it filled the sump with debris, so the motor is apart again, to refit the old input, primary drive and clutch. It’s been apart a lot recently – I knew a man who could superfinish the gearbox, so that’s been done, and it threw a camchain for some reason. It shouldn’t do, there’s no more load on it than standard – maybe less, because the boost blows the inlet valves open. So there was that to fix, too. I’ve had a bit of outside help from Morris Lubricants, too. If you remember, I’m running E85 fuel. It’s something I got into, and I run it in my 800bhp Volvo Amazon – it burns cooler, so you avoid knock and it helps with power on a turbo build too, countering some of the heat you generate with the pressure and keeping it more stable. It’s not a drastic issue here because the bike isn’t run for long, but it helps. It means I’m more environmentally friendly than the Voxan electric landspeed bike too – we’ll have Greta Thunberg on our side before long, you watch…

Ever seen a clutch melt the backing on friction plates? Us neither. Back to stock with a lock-up, but the lever has to go elsewhere to make room for the brake on the ’bar

A turbo as big as your head, yet the ’Muricans say he needs more power. He’s right to be sceptical

In bits, again. Raking out clutch shards takes a while

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But it’s vicious stuff, you have to run different fuel lines and seals, it’ll eat through normal stuff. You probably know what 5% ethanol in unleaded fuel does to carbs and rubbers, so you can imagine what 85% can do. One thing it did do was degrade the engine oil – a little bit blown by the rings was enough to write off the oil. Morris are top boys – they’ve made a special blend that withstands a bit of the fuel getting in, and they’re as happy to be involved as I’m grateful for their help. That’s something I’ve found with this project, there’s plenty of people who want to help – not just get a bit of exposure off my back, but get behind what I want to do. In fact, not everyone wants their name on the bike – they’re keen to see their products tested to the limit by the bike. Sharon, the missus, got a message on Facebook (I don’t do any of that) from Tiger Racing in the US – they’ve sent this aero mudguard, as used by Bill Warner. He died chasing 300mph – he’s still the unofficial fastest at 296mph, and did an official 311mph in 1.5 miles. He put me on to Worldwide Bearings too, who make ceramic bearings used by everyone chasing speed records. So I’ve got some, too. Sorting the brake and clutch is the next job – I’ve got a thumb brake on order, but to use on the clutch circuit so I can keep my hand lever for the brake. If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to look at something else. It’s important to get it sorted – the bike has more speed in it, but at the moment it’s too sensitive in any kind of slight wind. We’re talking minutes every year when the weather is good enough to run with full aero body, and no stability aids. That’s no good, so I’ve got to make it stable. It’s two steps forward, one back at the moment, but we’re learning, and getting closer.


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The 2009 cross-plane crank R1 is more than a great sportsbike. It marks the moment Yamaha found its mojo again. Here’s why Words: Chris Newbigging Photography: Simon Lee

S

EPTEMBER, 2008. Consider the world of sportsbikes at the time: not especially interesting. Some good bikes, yes, but they’re largely turn of the century designs with a few nips and tucks. The best of the bunch is the Fireblade, but it’s just another Good Honda. Not all that interesting. 600s are incredible track bikes, but development is beginning to stagnate, and customers are beginning to turn away from them as road bikes. Ducati’s offering still shares engine architecture with the Pantah… Yours truly is in his early 20s – a junior reporter dogsbody. “There’s a Yamaha bike unveiling in Amsterdam, want to go?” Of course I do. Free champagne and a night out in the ’dam. “There’s a new R1, we think.” Whatever. Bit of easy work writing about revised suspension and bold new graphics, then see just exactly how much beer I can get away with sticking on expenses… The event comes. Booming music, some sort of laser and light show, smoke machine. A man in a headset and mic spouts corporate hype and nonsense: then the bike appears. Whoa… Hold the Heineken, Henk: I’m in for a long night at the keyboard. The 2009 R1 was something of a shock. It looked a bit – only a bit – like an R1. The wild, staring projector

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eyes, bulging flanks, and girthy underseat pipes were a marked change from the traditionally svelte, classy, and minimalist build of every R1 from the first up to that point: a new look for a new direction. And a pink frame if you chose the white/silver option... Racing had enabled it to have a standout new engine. Yamaha had thrown the kitchen sink at the YZR-M1 (which had its arse handed to it in 2002-2003) so one Valentino Rossi could bring home the World Championship for them, which he did. A big part of that was making the inline-four Yamaha turn, hold a line, and drive out of a corner. V4s or (or V5s, as Honda ran from 2002-2006) are inherently more powerful, so trying to match them in a top-speed shootout was a waste of time. The team behind VR46 reasoned a bike that handled and got out of a turn well would gain bike lengths and seconds more easily than a bike with a 5mph top-end advantage. They did various things to make it handle and grip, but the wobbly crank was key. A normal inline-four has the two outer cylinder crankpins phased together, the two inside pots also with their big-ends aligned 180º away. When two are at top dead centre, the other two are at bottom dead centre. Cam timing means the combustion cycles are timed differently, though.


In case anyone forgets – these things are for riding

Chris hits the highways on his 996, Adam Forsyth grabs two seconds at Oulton (although his dad will claim them), MG makes KH1F progress, The Fengineer makes great CRM-X strides, and MG’s FZ fights him with a clutch that won’t bleed-up

Chris Newbigging 2000 Ducati 996

Joy of enjoying what you’ve got Put your grand plans on hold. Fix the niggly bits, and just get out there on the roads

The sidestand master (ignore the pained look) 130 Practical Sportsbikes

he temptation to fiddle with bikes seems to become greater as the years pass. I love a project – so much so, I’m stringing the ZX990 out for as long as possible… But it’s all too easy to forget the point of tweaking, improving and restoring is to enjoy the polished results. I’d like a slipper clutch, for example. The dry clutch basket and hub wear out on these, and mine is particularly noisy, so I’ll take the opportunity to drop in a lovely hard-anodised billet-ally performance clutch, rather than another steel basket. Then there’s the fauxmonoposto subframe I’ve half butchered over winter to relieve it of the pillion footrest hangers and extraneous crap: it still needs

an ECU mount and refinishing. An unfinished project in itself… meanwhile, the bike has no MoT or tax. Or, at least it didn’t. Then I looked at it one day, and decided to shelve my plans to treat it to more goodies, and just enjoy the ones I’d got. So I booked it in at the Motorcycle Works here in Peterborough to get a ticket. But not before one last fettle… Italians can’t seem to design a sidestand to save their lives. Most Ducatis (from the cambelt era, at least) have them bolted to the crankcase for a start. Lean on it too hard, and you can write off the ’cases. The flip-up design some had in the 1990s must have netted the Castiglioni Group £1000s in clutch levers and nearside fairing panel sales.


PROJECT BIKES

Rucksack at bursting point. He’s now looking into getting a trailer for the 996

Digital inclinometer does not lie – much better

Off with the borderline useless old sidestand

Mine doesn’t flip, but it is flimsy and short. The bike teeters precariously on the tiny foot: it’ll sink into grass or hot tarmac, and topple over on a slope, or in a stiff breeze. The one upside of Ducati’s insistence on screwing them to the ’cases means they all have the same distance between mounting holes. Sifting through owners groups, I found some details of the choices for stand swaps. I opted for a 1098/1198 part. It’s still aluminium so suits the bike, but has a bigger foot and is reputed to hold 916 series bikes more upright. UK breakers seem to want to extract very many of your GBPs from you, so most cost three figures. But I found one on

Italian eBay for a reasonable £50 – with a light scuff on the end, but nothing a file couldn’t sort out. The 996 stand held the bike at 17º. It doesn’t sound a lot, but it is. The 1198 part, despite appearances, makes a clear difference, confirmed to be just under 13º on the digital angle box. It feels more secure, with less flexing. That done, I presented it for the MoT. All good, so out for a ride. The decision to park further improvement plans until next winter proves wise: instead, I get to enjoy what I’ve done so far. The pandemic and arrival of my second nipper last year meant I only used two or three tanks of fuel in 2020, so I’m reacquainting myself with the suspension overhauled by K-Tech, the power and response corrected by a Power Commander, and the benefits of changing the final drive ratio. Yes, 996s are lovely, but refining and modernising the details takes them to another level. I stop at some services for a sandwich. A bloke driving by jumps on the brakes, gawps in awe, then gives me a thumbs up and a huge grin. I don’t ride it for the attention, but you’d have to be an anti-social freak not to appreciate a compliment like that.

Bigfoot 1098/1198 (top) replaces original 996

That’s Pete O’Dell signing Chris’s tank for him

A BLOKE DRIVING BY GIVES ME A THUMBS-UP AND A HUGE GRIN. I DON’T RIDE IT FOR THE ATTENTION, BUT YOU’D HAVE TO BE AN ANTISOCIAL FREAK NOT TO APPRECIATE THAT

It’s all the motivation I need to find excuses to ride it: the family Skoda might see fewer journeys in favour of arriving at work, family, and social occasions in a crescendo of booming Termis, and clattering clutch. I’ll let something else satisfy my project urges for now [like maybe the ZX990? – AS, MG, MF].

New/old stand looks like it was meant to be

Evotech brake lever guard/bar-end How long: brand new

Cost: £100

9 10

Contact: evotech-performance.com All MSV trackdays, and many organised elsewhere by big trackday firms, require a race-style brake lever guard now. A minor bind and an obvious expense, but it is what it is. I’ve tried Evotech’s bike-specific offering on a KTM Duke 890R and Yamaha MT-09SP. Both fitted perfectly to the stock inner bar weight, with no increase in vibration level. Neither bound on the throttle, or moved on the handlebar. And the finish is nice too – factory, in fact.

Practical Sportsbikes 131


Perfect preparation pays: two second places at The Park

Mark/Adam Forsyth 2003 Suzuki SV650

Primates pull it out of the bag Monkey Wrench Racing put down their bananas and scorch to two seconds at Oulton Park Zoo quick wobble round Brands Hatch last month confirmed that my winter’s tinkering has borne fruit. Just a small fuelling issue to sort on one bike, and the discovery that the Maxton shock appears to be sprung and damped for someone half our weight. Easy fix. Disconnecting the Oxygen sensor has richened up the fuelling at the first touch (it previously felt like riding an early Honda SP-1) and swapping out the Maxton for the trusty old GSX-R 600 shock using my Harris footrest stands (see box out) sorted out the boingy rear end. Time to go racing. Round one of the Bemsee Rookie Minitwins at Oulton Park was massively oversubscribed. The organisers, bless ‘em, solved this problem by having a two-wave split grid. So transponder duly charged, scrutineering passed, we were finally ready to rumble at the early May Friday/Saturday event. 132 Practical Sportsbikes

The forecast was not pretty though, with heavy rain, hail and strong winds due to hit not just Cheshire but pretty much the whole of the UK. I packed my wellies. Adam seemed to be handling the pre-race

nerves thing pretty well. Better than me, for sure. I know pretty much every torque setting on the bikes from memory now and I spent my pre race time click-clicking all the crucial bits just to make doubly sure. Oh, and making tea.

Nothing forgotten? This is not the Forsyth way

Extra footpeg purchase in the wet? Scotchbrite


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TZ RULES THE WORLD

The TZ was the ultimate straightfrom-the-crate winner. Only Suzuki’s RG500 came close

hat is the greatest Grand Prix bike of all time? That’s an easy question to answer. It’s not Yamaha’s YZR-M1, winner of seven MotoGP titles over the past two decades, and neither is it Honda’s NSR500, the dominant machine of the 1990s. It’s Yamaha’s two-stroke parallel twin TZ, available in 250cc and 350cc versions, to anyone with a few grand in their pocket. TZ twins dominated GP grids for years, winning around 100 GPs and more than a dozen world titles. They democratised GP racing like no other motorcycle before or since. Ambitious privateers could load a TZ250 or TZ350 into a Transit van, hook up a caravan, and head to Europe, where they could make a good living from GPs and international events. At the same time TZs were the backbone of national racing and club racing around the world, so on the same day there’d be Carlos Lavado and TZ winning the 250 Yugoslav GP, Phil Mellor and TZ winning the Junior TT on the Isle of Man, Joe Bloggs and TZ winning a club race at Snetterton, and Toshihiko Honma and TZ winning a Japanese Championship race at Suzuka. There can be little doubt that no other race bike has won more races than the TZ250 and 350.

W

Yamaha’s TZ250 and TZ350 didn’t only win GPs and TTs, they also democratised racing by allowing any talented privateer to have a crack at world glory. And they were the blueprint for the legendary RD250 and 350LC Words Mat Oxley Pics Bauer archive

John Player F750 meeting, Silverstone 1976, 250cc race, every bike TZ-powered. Tony Rutter (4) is on his Offenstadt-framed TZ. We can pick out Kork Ballington (30), and Neil Tuxworth (42)... how many other riders can you recognize? Tell us, please...

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Carlos Lavado, World 250 Champ in 1983 and 1986 on a TZ (and with his hat on, below)

“The TZ was a a very simple motorcycle. You could have the engine out in 15 minutes, stripped down to the crank in 45 minutes, then put in the new bits and go straight back out again”

only man to x imer. The ri rt o M s a h cc Grand P rC That’s you 25, 250, 350 and 500 a1 have won

South African Jon Ekerold (above) and in action (right). Hard man on a dependable TZ beat Mang (on a Kawasaki) to the 1980 350 title

Venezuelan Lavado was a 250 GP rider from 1978-1992 inclusive. Jeez

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At the height of the TZ’s popularity Yamaha were selling more than a thousand a year. Most race bikes are manufactured in minimal quantities – a few dozen, perhaps a hundred, but a thousand?! Perhaps most importantly TZs were the racetrack blueprints for arguably the most significant sportsbikes of all time – Yamaha’s RD250LC and RD350LC. Obviously, LCs weren’t as fast or as trick as a ’Blade or an R1, but they probably gave more kicks to more riders than any other motorcycle before or since. The first TZ parallel twins hit the track in 1973. The 350 lasted until 1982, when the class was dropped from the World Championships, but the 250 was continually developed according to ever-improving two-stroke knowhow – until the early 1990s, when Yamaha switched to a V-twin engine layout. TZs took Lavado, Dieter Braun, Johnny Cecotto, Jon Ekerold, Christian Sarron and Jean-Louis Tournadre to world title glory, but from the mid-1980s the 250 was no longer a championship contender, because the front of the grid was populated by million-dollar factory bikes. Among the Britons who made their names on TZs were Chas Mortimer and Keith Huewen. Both were the epitome of the successful GP privateer of the 1970s and 1980s: not much money, knew how to ride, and knew all the tricks to get the best out of a finicky two-stroke. “The best thing about the TZ was you could buy one over the counter and win a GP on the thing,” says Huewen, whose best TZ result was second place in the 1981 350cc British GP. “Parts were easy to get, they were cheap, and the bikes were easy to spanner on, so you could work on them yourself. Most important of all they worked as a basic motorcycle without having to do much to them.” The 350 on which Huewen thrilled the 1981 Silverstone crowd cost him £2500, about ten grand now, which wouldn’t even buy you a stock YZF-R6. “I split the two factory Kawasakis on a privateer, shed-built TZ!” TZs were cheap because Yamaha were making so many of them and because they saw the TZ racing programme as road-bike development. Of course, because so many riders had TZs it was vital to squeeze maximum performance from your machine so you could beat all the other TZs. This didn’t always cost a ton of money. “You needed to be a weatherman,” Huewen adds. “Everybody thought I had trick this, trick that, trick everything, but I didn’t. All we had was a weather station hanging in the awning. The first thing we did when we arrived at a meeting was get the weather station out to


TZ RULES THE WORLD

Ekerold (8) and Mang (Kawasaki), 350cc Brit GP Silverstone 1980. Tough stuff

let it settle down before practice started the next day. Then we’d check the barometer and the thermometer. I had these charts I filled out with all the different base settings for carburation, because getting the jetting right was absolutely critical. “The TZ was a very simple motorcycle, but to get the very best out of if you had to be on the ball. You needed an understanding of how things worked. “Keeping the temperature down was a major thing – you needed to keep it at 70 degrees or below, otherwise you lost so much power. “If you wanted the best out of the engine you didn’t shut the throttle in a straight line you held it flat and stabbed the kill button to shift gears, which got lots of premix in there to keep the engine cool and lubricated. “And if you rolled off into a long corner, where you were off the throttle for too long, you’d get three quarters of the way around, and the thing would seize and spit you over the top. So what you had to do was introduce some throttle mid-corner.” TZ engines did seize if they detonated or ran lean or too hot, but fixing the damage was quick and easy. “They were so simple to work on that you could do a crank in practice and have the thing fixed in time for the next session,” says Mortimer. “You could have the engine out in 15 minutes, stripped down to the crank in 45 minutes, put in the new bits and go back out again. “Usually we’d get 600 miles out of a crank, but club racers would get a thousand out of them. Pistons were 300 miles and rings 200 miles, so we’d fit new rings for the start of practice, then new rings for the race.

Left to right: the dashing Chas Mortimer, casual but committed Keith Huewen, and the ever-intense Christian Sarron. Far right: Huewen sending it on

Sarron, 1984 World Champ. He worked for it: 109 points to Manfred Herweh’s 100

“I always travelled with at least two spare cranks, two cylinders and various sizes of pistons, but if you ran out of anything you could pretty much go to anyone and say, ‘Have you got a crank or a main bearing?’ and if they did they’d lend you one. “If you crashed them they were nothing to repair. I wrote off my 250 at Daytona in 1977 and it cost $2000 to build another. The year before that I’d led the 350 world championship with a dead-stock engine until a carb blew off at the start of one of the last races.”

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Ekerold (left), Aussie Jeff Sayle (14) and Toni Mang all set for the 1980 350cc British Grand Prix

TZ how to make a Huewen knew

fly

“What we did then was the analogue version of what they do now with all the data-recording – big charts with everything written down – ignition, spark plug, squish and all that – so that everything correlated” As the quest for a better TZ intensified, an industry of engine tuners and chassis builders grew up around Europe to satisfy the demands of the faster, wealthier riders chasing big-money glory. Harold Bartol, Hans Hummel, Helmut Fath and others produced cylinders, Austrian company Hoeckle made crankshafts and everyone from Harris to Bimota and Maxton to Nico Bakker fabricated chassis. In 1984 the TZ250 won its last world title with Sarron, who ran Hummel cylinders, a Hoeckle crank, and tasty French-made bodywork, bankrolled by Gauloises cash. “I always used Hoeckle cranks because they were better quality than the standard cranks, so they ran true for longer and gave you better mileage,” Huewen recalls. “Hoeckles had a different feel too. I think they were a bit heavier, so they gave you a bit more midrange. But some people liked to lighten their crankshafts so the engine would spin-up quicker. “I think a big reason why the richer teams had faster bikes wasn’t so much that they bought loads of trick gear for them, it was more that they could afford to pick out the best parts to get the closest tolerances, because TZs were all mass-production stuff. “A lot of it was about finding the right combination of cylinder, squish, ignition, jetting, spark plug and exhaust. I always ran Hitachi ignition because you could individually time each cylinder, which made a massive difference, because the squish value of each cylinder was never exactly the same. You’d do a lot of work getting them as close as possible, using a burette to measuring compression ratios, and so on. “What we did then was the analogue version of what they do now with all the data-recording – big charts with everything written down – ignition, spark plug, squish and all that – so that everything correlated. “The best thing was that you could also use the 350 in 500 races, which ran 351cc to 500cc, at smaller events. You’d declare your 500 as a 352cc or whatever, because no one ever bothered to measure the engines. In fact you could enter the same bike in the 250, 350 and 500 classes, just swapping the cylinders and heads for the 250 race, because the bottom half of the 250 and 350 were the same.” Before Huewen went pro he was a car mechanic, specialising in automatic transmissions, so knew about engines and gearboxes. “Instead of putting EP80 oil in the gearbox – like Yamaha told you – I used automatic transmission oil which was like piss compared to the thick EP80 stuff, so it allowed everything to turn more freely and quickly.” Ekerold, on his Bimota-framed TZ350, leading Toni Mang

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TZ RULES THE WORLD

Last of the parallel twin TZs, the 1990 W

Yamaha’s TZ250 and TZ350 parallel twin were as simple and effective as it’s possible to get in racing. The 250 started as the TZ250A in 1973 and ended as the TZ250W. The shorter-lived 350 started at A and ended at G. Most years Yamaha made upgrades to the machines, each model eagerly awaited by racers from Europe to the USA and from Japan to Australia. The first big improvement, in 1976, was monoshock rear ends, initially developed on Yamaha motocross bikes. That year a brand new TZ250 cost £1500, the 350 an extra 50 quid. Eleven grand in today’s money. Over the next decade most improvements were to the engine. Inlet, transfer and exhaust ports grew in size and number until there was so little cylinder wall left that Yamaha added

bridges in some ports, to stop rings snagging, and made the engine run backwards, so that piston loads were better distributed. And then then trick bits started to arrive: Power Jet carburettors (of dubious benefit, according to many riders) and the powervalve system that adjusted exhaust-port height, to allow more peak horsepower without sacrificing midrange. In 1985 Yamaha switched from piston-port induction to crankcase reed-valve induction, again boosting low-rpm power and thus allowing designers to chase more top-end. The following year came the biggest chassis change since the monoshock – the tubular steel frame was replaced by an aluminium Deltabox, mimicking the 500s of that era.

1974: Mortimer in the back of the soft-top with the Sheilas after winning at Opatija (in what was then Yugoslavia). That’s how winners roll, kids. Be a winner

And two years later Yamaha reversed the cylinders, allowing a straight run for the expansion chambers exiting to the rear and delivering cooler air to the carburettors in front of the engine. It all changed in 1991; the TZ250 became a V-twin, like Yamaha’s factory YZR250 and Honda’s NSR250.

This is how it all started: simple, effective, fast

Huewen bought his first new TZ in 1978, a TZ350E. “It was delivered in a crate to where I worked, the Three Musketeers garage, on the A428 outside Northampton. I ran the thing in on the road, riding up and down the A428, because that’s what you did back then!” The Huewen and Mortimer race teams may have been humble affairs but there was good money to be made if you had the talent and the knowhow. “One year I made enough money to walk into an estate agent and buy a house with cash,” recalls Mortimer. “Me and my wife wanted somewhere near a port, so we went for Seaford, near Newhaven in Sussex. This house was going for £11,995 [£190,000 now], so I told the estate agent I’d like to pay for it today. ‘How are you going to do that?’, he asked. I said, ‘I’ve got the cash in the caravan’. We used to keep our money in a little metal box. He must’ve thought I was a bank robber or something.”

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He’d never crack a hint of a smile before he owned his first TZ

PS two-stroke champion Bruce Dunn has been riding TZs for nearly 30 years. Who better to give you the straight oil on living with a track thoroughbred Words Bruce Dunn Pictures Paul Bryant, Paul Korkus, Stephen Davison

t’s 1988 and I’m sitting in the collecting area on my Suzuki RG250 Mk3 at Snetterton. As a novice, I should be consumed by pre-race nerves but the bike next to me is absorbing all my attention – it’s like nothing I’ve ever seen. Bare white futuristic bodywork, raw-looking aluminium chassis; it looks like it’s been beamed down from another planet. The rider is warming it up, holding the revs high but not high enough to over-rev it. The underseat pipes are pumping out high-octane premix with every blip of the throttle. I’m instantly addicted. The bike, I later discovered, was a TZ250U, Yamaha’s new production racer for that year. Out on track I didn’t even see which

I

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way it went. That first close encounter with a TZ got me hooked. I bumbled on with the RG for that season then got a TZR250 – I was always going to get myself a TZ. It was 1993 by the time I managed it. The original U model I’d seen at Snetterton was now obsolete, the pace of development from Yamaha in those days meant a new model each year. Yamaha ran the reverse cylinder configuration for only three years: The TZ250U (1988), TZ250W (1989) and finally the TZ250A (1990), then they produced the TZ250B (1991) – my first TZ250. I bought it for £5000 from a guy who ran in the British Championship 250GP class. It was a pretty good deal. He was giving up, and I got the bike, tons of spares, tyre warmers, and even a generator.


LIVING WITH A TZ250

Bruce’s boy Kris: “One day, son, all this will be yours”

People always ask me why I choose to race a 250, saying things like: “Aren’t they difficult to set-up and live with?” And: “Why not get a production-based bike and race that?” I tried production-based stuff and very quickly gave up. The notion TZs are somehow more difficult to set-up and get going is simply false. I worked for a bike shop in the mid-’90s and they got a CB500 for me to race for the then Honda UK-backed national series at Brands Hatch. It was so slow and awkward to ride I lost interest. A couple of years later I bought the all-new 1998 Yamaha R1 thinking it would be the thing to have. Only, we got it track-ready, had a rip around Mallory – and it was dreadful: poor brakes, weird handling, running wide on corners … really, a shite thing to ride. If you think back, historically no one ever did anything with those early R1s, it took all the production bike specialists at least another year to get them going properly. To get a production sportsbike going properly on track you need to do a lot of work on it, or pay someone to do it for you. A Yamaha TZ250 is a race bike, ready to go, straight out of the box. Any changes or adjustments can be made easily. It’s designed to be worked on with quick turnaround. Added to that, the simplicity of stripping and rebuilding a two-stroke motor is well within most racers’ mechanical skill level, you don’t have to have any specialist outside help that comes with added costs. I’ve owned and raced TZ250s for nearly 30 years, and

Bruce never looked back after getting stuck into TZs

When things don’t have sidestands you know they’re serious items

hand on heart, can say they’re easy to maintain and service, competitive, and rugged enough to take knocks. As with any highly tuned race engine, they consume parts at a fair rate; rings, pistons, reeds, and cranks all have regular replacement intervals. In the ’90s almost everyone at club level used to run on Avgas. That fuel probably never yielded the best power, but did allow for a reasonable life expectancy from pistons, which would often run for at least 300 miles; cranks could last 1500 miles if you were feeling brave. I only ever encountered problems if I ran too lean on the main jets, or if there was another underlying problem that hadn’t been noticed. This could be something like a split carb rubber letting air in and causing a weak mixture, or even a resistor spark plug cap failing. The later 5KE series (2000-2009) of TZs however did start to become a bit more demanding, these bikes were designed to run with more rpm than the 4DP bikes. The extra rpm helped them get power from the unleaded race fuel, and this started to reduce the service life of parts. The unleaded engine did have a real benefit though, they felt so much smoother and with a wide over-rev that transformed the way the bike could be ridden. In a nutshell, the 5KE bikes were more forgiving at high rpm, the bike could be revved hard while being less disruptive to the chassis, improving stability. Whereas the ruggedness of the 1990s 4DP bikes is undisputed, the 5KE TZs were notorious for destroying crankcases. Luckily the cases can be repaired and refurbished. Andy and Eric at St Neots Motorcycles have helped me out several times getting ’cases sorted. A well set-up stock TZ250 is still competitive, but that’s never stopped people trying to get more out of them. All

“To get a production sportsbike going properly on track you need to do a lot of work on it, or pay someone to do it for you. A Yamaha TZ250 is a race bike, ready to go, straight out of the box”

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“My best TZ moment has to be riding at The North West 200. The guys over there absolutely love 250s. There’s still nothing that comes close to riding into Portrush at 160mph on a 30mph limit road.”

Most of us can only imagine the joy of uncrating a boxfresh TZ

Old school 250-style riding: tucked-in ALL the time, unless under full braking

I know is that my stock bikes have been quick and reliable. Although I’ve experimented with fuels and additives, with differing results, you only seem to get the best out trick fuels when you optimise combustion volumes and ignition timing. When it comes to actual tuning and modifying, ie removing or adding metal (or composite) there have only ever been less than a handful of people that could be trusted to do a good job, names that jump out at me are: Frank Wrathall, Trevor Smedley and Graham File. These guys seem to make TZs go faster, but it wasn’t just about cutting cylinders, there was usually a whole package of things these tuners did, small things like making sure the base gaskets matched both surfaces, and exhaust pipes were properly sealed, and of course using the correct gearbox internals for each track. The YEC kit I use on my current bike is enough to make a bike fast while retaining reasonable reliability. These kits comprise a pair of cylinders, exhausts, wiring loom, pistons, carbon reeds, and map selector switch. Using this kit bolted on to my new 2006 TZ250 5KE4 with what can be fairly described as a ‘chemistry’ experiment in the fuel tank saw it make a jaw-dropping 91bhp on BSD’s dyno. With stock unleaded race fuel it made around 86bhp. That high power reading, though, came via running increased cylinder compression, and it the fierce power delivery made the bike difficult to ride. When it comes to my best TZ moments, it has to be riding at the North West 200. A pal of mine, Michael

The real deals: the models, the money, the genuinely GOOD VALUE! TZ250B: This was the first V-twin Yamaha made as a customer race bike, it was a direct development of the YZR250 factory bike that Yamaha were racing in Grand Prix. Looking back now it was super reliable and impressively fast, it was all stock with just optimised cylinder head heights and an ignition tweak. Bought for a mere £5000. Bargain.

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TZ250D: More commonly known now as a 4DP, I bought this off an up-and-coming racer called Rob Frear. He’d run it at British Championship meetings with a lot of success, and prior to that it was owned by 250 ace Nigel Bosworth. This bike was outstanding and at the time I bought it in 1996 it was three years old. Cost was £7500.

PERFORMANCEBIKES.CO.UK | JULY 2021

TZ250M1 (5KE1): This model of TZ was the first of the new generation to have a 54 x 54mm bore and stroke, commonly known as the 5KE model. The 2000 model I bought in 2002 was hardly used and was in almost perfect condition. It even came with most of the original spares kit. And it set me back £10,000.

TZ250 5KE4: This was my first brand-new TZ250, and this 2006 model was the final development. I ordered a YEC kit with it too (Yamaha Electronics Corporation). They were sold off cheap in Japan at the time – I got mine for £2500, and they were £15K retail. The bike cost £13,500. I currently run a 2006 5KE4, bought in 2014 for £19,000.


LIVING WITH A TZ250

The North West 200 is one of Bruce’s fave 250 playgrounds

If you don’t fully trust yourself with engine building, then a TZ is definitely not the right machine to be involved with

Swann helped me get an entry for the 2006 NW200. I’d just taken delivery of a brand new TZ250 and race director Mervyn Whyte called me up and told me he wanted me and my new TZ in his 250 race. The guys over there absolutely love 250s and I was basically treated as an equal to the superbike riders. This was something I wasn’t used to, and the enthusiasm for 250s at the NW was truly amazing. I’m not a road racer so it was a bit of an eye opener when I realised that we had to gear the bike to rev out in top at 165mph. There’s still nothing that comes close to riding a TZ250 at 160mph into Portrush on a 30mph limit road. I finished sixth in that race, and returned a few more times on different TZ250s. There are loads of other high points too; loads of club wins, some lap records, national class wins, and I was the 2002 ACU National Championship winner, as well as runner up in the 2019 ACU series. Crashing is always a low point and I always seem to crash heavy. The first biggy was at Mallory Park when I came off at the Lake Esses (no Edwina’s back then) and I smashed into the barrier and broke loads of ribs, punctured my lung, broke my pelvis…. The bike got proper twatted too, so much that I had to get Spondon to repair the headstock. There have been plenty of other crashes and broken bones over the years, the latest was just last month at the opening round of the ACU series; a weirdo off-throttle highside that gave me a concussion and fractured T12 vertebrae. I’ve got plenty of time to heal and to fix the bike, so I’ll be fit and back out there later in the year. There’s simply nothing better than racing a race bike, and the TZ, any TZ, is where it’s at.

Always immaculately turned out, always giving it full gas

Yes, well... racing a TZ is fun, but it’s not cheap either, so big thanks to the following for years of support: Bilstein UK, Bridgestone, Rock Oil, EBC Brakes, Dainese, Stevelin Motorcycles, The Image Works, St Neots Motorcycles, Hardcore Racing

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The Old Wurzel’s been out riding his 996 (when he could have been working on the ZX990)

35 PAGES

106 360º GARAGE Inside Hugh Baird College (up Liverpool way), where every day is a school day. And that’s because it’s a school

113 RESTORE A KH250/400 Now’s the time before they start fetching H1 and H2 money

118 WHAT’S THE PROBLEM? Yam R1 carb balancing, Yam TRX front mudguard swap, CRM250 base nuts, VFR750 warped discs, tyre storage issues, XJR13 wheel cracks, and FZR flasher relay questions

120 REAL LONG-TERMERS Steve Carbutt bought his FZ750 new in 1986, then swapped in Genesis and EXUP 1000 engines four times in the early 1990s. What was he up to?

130

125 PROJECT ZX990 TURBO Part 24, that’s two years of this. Can’t say we’re not getting our money’s worth

130 ON OUR BENCH Old Farmer Chris goes for a spin on his 996, Adam and Mark Forsyth get results at Oulton, MG makes KH1F progress, The Fengineer continues to impress, and is there any part of his FZ750 MG has still to rebuild?

140 BIKES FOR SALE

BUY IT. FIX IT.

Myriad opportunities to make a huge mistake, or snag a wee bargain

144 PROJECT HUNTER Nu-G tests his feel for the market, and comes up pretty much spot-on. He’s still a massive low-baller, though. Just got lucky with the prices, that’s all

106

138 113

This 360º Garage is a big one. Sure is

Practical Sportsbikes 105


25m

Nobody likes school, but if it’s teaching you how to fix motorbikes, then that’s an entirely different matter Words: Jon Urry | Pictures: Simon Lee

H

ow do you train to become a motorcycle mechanic? Your options are fairly limited, which is a great shame as the industry is crying out for fresh, young, enthusiastic mechanics. However if you live in the Liverpool area you have a wonderful facility right on your doorstep.

GARAGE DIMENSIONS

12m

Hugh Baird College

Hugh Baird College has been running its industry-accredited Motorcycle Maintenance and Repair course since 1996. Open to anyone from the age of 16 years old upwards, it is split into two levels (2 and 3) and runs over roughly 12 hours a week (depending on age and qualifications, younger students do other courses such as mathematics and English alongside) all over two years, with around 20 students a enrolling per annum. “We get a huge mix of students,” says Course Lecturer, Geoff Wilding, who alongside Motorcycle Technician Stephen Bamber runs the course. “Our youngest are 16-year-olds who are using the course to gain the equivalent of two A-levels, which they can then use to progress to university, while some students are in their 40s or 50s and are looking for a career change. The course is a mix of practical skills and theory with the emphasis roughly 70% on practical, 30% theory, with online assessments as well as practical tasks. Not everyone leaves here looking for a job in the motorcycle industry but we set the foundations for them to go on and work in many areas as the skills are transferable.” However those that do wish to join the bike industry will be armed with all the skills required to slot into almost any workshop. “Both Level 2 and 3 are recognised by the motorcycle industry and students can leave here and get an apprenticeship at a dealership,” continues Geoff. “In the two years here we will teach them everything from full engine rebuilds, fault diagnosis, wiring, fuel injection systems, carbs, tyre changing, fork rebuilds, brake systems, you name it, we can teach it and also demonstrate it on a motorcycle. The course provides the perfect start point, where

Five minutes in and Geoff (right) is regretting it...

...so he pretends to be busy with a bike on a ramp

they choose to take it is up to them. Some former students are working in bike shops, one made it to Moto2, we have a few in the armed forces fixing helicopters, and one has even set up his own dyno centre.” If you like the thought of enrolling on the course, there is an online application process that can be found via the college’s website www.hughbaird.ac.uk and there are ‘experience days’ that will be run in summer. Until then, have a sneaky peak around their facilities...

“We’re training the next generation of motorcycle mechanics” 2 6 18

3

5 1

106 Practical Sportsbikes

4

7


360˚ GARAGE

1. Emissions tester “Although bikes don’t get emissions tested during an MoT, it is handy for setting a bike up and we teach students how to use it as they might want to work in a dyno house or car workshop.” 2. Clock “Almost all the students didn’t turn up one day, so I called one of them and heard race bikes in the background. They’d hopped on a ferry to go and watch the Isle of Man TT races. I was more annoyed I wasn’t invited than they’d skipped lessons. They bought me this clock as an apology – it runs backwards, which really throws some visitors.” 3. TV “The internet is a fantastic thing but you do need to be careful what you believe. Some of the online tutorials are inaccurate to the point of being dangerous. I use an example of a video about a chap saying tyre pressures are on the tyre’s wall – no, that’s the maximum inflation used for popping the bead onto the rim.” 4. 2004 GSX-R600 “The GSX-R is a great teaching tool as it has modern tech such as fuel-injection but is

not horribly compact so is easy to work on. This bike has a Power Commander fitted so we can mess about with its fuelling and allow students to hear the change in engine note with rich and lean fuelling. It also has a few hidden faults we have put there...” 5. Chairs “There is a bit of theory so we do need ‘school’ chairs – it’s just a coincidence they are wipe-clean plastic, we aren’t grubby!” 6. Whiteboards “I still do a bit on whiteboards but due to lockdown I’ve had to do more online videos.” 7. Workbench “This is on wheels so I can put an engine on it and move it to the centre of the room to give a demo that all the students can watch. This is a very hands-on course and students want to see things happening in the flesh rather than in books.” 8. Tool chests “Each work area has its own tool chest and we hammer home the importance of looking after tools and keeping them clean. We have Snap-On tools but I do warn them about the costs involved in buying a big box of tools. A flash set of tools

Mingin’ roller towel and Swarfega... not any more doesn’t necessarily make a good mechanic.” 9. Hand cleaning “I always insist on barrier cream if a pupil doesn’t want to wear gloves. Old engine oil is nasty stuff. I worked with a mechanic who lost a testicle due to putting oily rags in his pocket and the oil soaking through to his ball bag.” 10. Benches “We have seven or eight benches, which are vital. We teach proper strapping down and how to get a bike safely on and off one in the first few weeks of the course. I always teach to hold a bike’s ’bar when moving it up and down – I’ve seen what happens if one falls off a bench, and it’s never pretty.” 11. Extractor “Every one of our bikes runs (thanks to Stephen) and this means I can do

demos with the motor running to show a slipping clutch or a misfire, etc.” 12. 600 K3 engine “This engine has a gearbox fault and Level 3 requires the student to diagnose, strip and rebuild a gearbox. This has first gear damaged and the student will need to change the gears and see what else requires swapping.” 13. Shelves “Each job has a box. As students aren’t in here all the time they may start a job one week and finish it the next, so this keeps all the parts together.” 14. Engine props “These moving Wankel, two and fourstroke engine props are a great visual aid. For some reason the Wankel always gets a giggle...The cabinet below has bearing pullers and tools to strip forks.”

A shed to store fairings in – best thing for it 15. Scooter “It’s not just motorbikes, the students need to work on scooters and understand a CVT drive and clutch. As so many ride scooters, this is surprisingly interesting to them as they always break their own CVT systems revving them at traffic lights with the brake on.” 16. CBR600F “If you want a bike to demonstrate how hard a fairing can be to get

off, a jelly-mould CBR is perfect! This even has nasty aftermarket heated grips, which can throw up all sorts of weird wiring faults.” 17. Nissan Micra “The college used to run it but it is now a very expensive fairing storage device...” 18. Tyre balancers “A lot of bike shops have manual balancers, so students need to know how to do it.”

Wiring boards used to test looms. New to PS

14 9

13 11

8

17 12

16

15 10

Practical Sportsbikes 107


Level 3 job for the kids, Level 10 job for Damo

Thundercat “This is a Level 3 job, he is replacing the clutch and should check the plates aren’t warped (they are, we know) or too worn using a vernier gauge.”

TZR250 engine “This needs a new crank, and top gear is gone, which is common on a two-stroke as riders are always looking for gear seven! Pupils will strip the whole motor and it is great for teaching how to apply gasket sealant properly.”

Engines

5

Geoff’s favourite tools...

“Yes, that’s a microfiche reader on the bottom shelf. Pulling that out and the DT125 workshop fiche really messes kids heads up.”

From the basic to the very fancy, and who knew you could do a compression test with an oscilloscope?

1. Great uncle Tommy’s tyre lever “This was used by my great uncle Tommy while he was a despatch rider in World War 2 before he passed it on to my father and he gave it to me. I used to race the pupils using this against the machine – and I usually won. I’ve retired now, but I’m the undefeated tyre-changing champion of the college...”

108 Practical Sportsbikes

2. Diagnostic computer “Nowadays bikes have a standardised diagnostic port, but up until recently each had their own, which is a right pain. A diagnostic port can tell you so much about what’s wrong, but it isn’t perfect, you still need to know how to know what it is telling you and use your own knowledge and intuition. Bikes aren’t as clever as cars.”

3. Oscilloscope “This is basically a visual multimeter. You can actually see when a fuel injector is firing and you can get detailed information that helps diagnose a fault. It’s a very powerful tool and you can even do compression testing without removing the plugs by measuring the change in current around the starter motor.”

4. TV “This course is very handson and the TV is a great teaching tool. I can call up interactive wiring diagrams, tutorials and even do fault diagnosis live on the TV showing what the oscilloscope is detecting. I’d be lost without the TV, it is an absolutely vital teaching tool, although I’ve turned off the touchscreen function.”

5. Carb balancer “We still teach how to balance carbs, and also throttle bodies in a fuel injection system. You can get a more modern electronic system that is full of LEDs and looks great but this steel rod one (no mercury in a classroom) is just as accurate and robust. Balancing is vital to make a bike run sweetly.”


360˚ GARAGE

More engines “We have loads of engines – two and four stroke, air and water cooled, SOHC, DOHC, we need an example of everything. Some we buy from breakers, some are donated, some are from former pupils. We never get rid of them and a few are now more helicoil than motor as the threads have been stripped so many times.”

More baggy threads than a 1989 Stone Roses gig

Engine bench “We have a hand-held valve spring compressor but the bench-mounted one is far quicker. The wooden device holds valves in their correct order while the ultrasonic tank is for cleaning carbs, which is a bit of an issue with all our bikes and modern fuel as they sit so long unused. We teach how to grind a valve in but we do warn students you don’t do this with titanium valves due to their coating.”

Steve’s Zimmer “This is the front end from a ZXR400 and we use it as a standalone brake station which we use to teach bleeding, caliper rebuilds etc as it’s better for pupils to spill brake fluid all over this than an actual bike! It’s also handy for explaining rake and trail.”

Broken bits “Nothing demonstrates what can go wrong better than broken, seized, rusty or damaged motorcycle engine parts... We sometimes put them on a working bike for students to discover.”

Sweet tins “I’m diabetic, so thesae aren’t empties I’ve eaten. We try and teach good practice with pupils starting and finishing a job with an empty tray and a tray for parts on the left hand side of a bike

“Silkolene help us out and once a year they come in and give a

and a separate one for the right hand side. It helps stop silly errors such as putting chain adjusters on the wrong side.”

talk, which is excellent. We separate out all the old fluids for recycling, hence the number of containers. Again, it’s good practice for a mechanic to follow.”

Old oils and fluids Workshop manuals “A lot are on online but you can’t beat a book, I always encourage students to read manuals.” Practical Sportsbikes 109


360˚ GARAGE

THE BIKES

2004 Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade “This is a great bike to challenge a student who is a bit more advanced than the rest of the class as it is quite a hard bike to work on. For starters the fairing is really tricky to remove with lots of hidden fasteners and then you get into the motor and discover just how compact and squeezed into

1985 Kawasaki GPz305 “It’s easier to say what’s wrong about our GPz than what’s right with it! This has been with us for years and I couldn’t tell you how many times it has been in pieces. The suspension is knackered, the wiring invents its own issues by the day, and it has chocolate cams, so they are really badly worn. As it has

a small space everything is. To change the plugs you need to get the radiator off and then there is the fuel injection system and even the electronic steering damper to take apart if you want – and that’s before getting into the wiring loom. We have given it a deliberate fault, which is the clutch slave cylinder leaking. Most students diag-

a belt drive it checks another box as it requires the swingarm to be removed to swap the belt and the carbs are a bit dodgy. We can never sell any bikes, they’ve been pulled apart so many times safety could be an issue, so it just hangs around and gets taken apart again and again. It was built in the same year I got married, so I have a soft spot for it.”

1998 BMW R1100GS “We had to have a BMW in here as it has a ‘funny’ front end, which the students need to know how to deal with as it could be a question in the exam on why it is better than forks etc. It has an air-cooled motor with easily accessible valve clearances and it has a dodgy fuel injector, which can be diagnosed using the oscilloscope,

WANT TO BE IN THE NEXT 360˚ GARAGE? 110 Practical Sportsbikes

nose a slipping clutch and instantly start to take off the clutch cover to swap the clutch plates, very few look for any wetness or drips around the slave cylinder. That’s a great lesson in old-school mechanic skills, always check the easy things first before you get into the more serious stuff. It’s a lovely bike, but not an easy one to work on.”

a single-sided swingarm,and also a shaft drive. It ticks loads of boxes and gives the students a lot of different experiences. I buy all the bikes and have only bought one that was a total lemon, a brand new Chinese-built CG125 knock-off. We took the carb apart because it wasn’t ticking over very well, the pilot jet wasn’t drilled out – just a solid piece of brass.”

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RESTORING

If any motorcycle symbolises the 1970s, it’s probably a Kawasaki triple – a small one, of which there were many

1976-1980

KAWASAKI KH250/400 Fairly plentiful, with many parts available, the smaller Kwak triples are a great resto opportunity Words: Alan Seeley

F

ew things scream 1970s quite as brashly as Kawasaki’s two-stroke triples. The first half of the decade was one of candy-colourful excess for the threes, with the 500cc H1 and 750cc H2 leading the frantic charge, and the S1, S2 and S3 providing lower-capacity lunacy at 250, 350 and 400cc. By mid-decade however the strokers were becoming less desirable with a prodigious thirst across the range that became a liability against the backdrop of an international oil crisis, and increased environmental awareness and regulation. The four-stroke was becoming the format of sportsbike choice too, even with Kawasaki themselves. The two-stroke was still a long way from dead however. For 1976 Kawasaki dropped the H2 while the S1 morphed into the KH250, the S3 which had itself replaced the S2 in 1974 became the KH400 and there was a short-lived H1 successor in the form of the KH500 (some even claim this was the best of the 500s, for all it was down on power it was a more developed package). For the purposes of this resto guide we’ll be talking about the KH250 and 400 as the KH500 was only with us for a year. The KH series, said by some to stand for ‘Kawasaki Highway’ although never officially confirmed by Kawasaki, had little choice but to be deliberately less lairy than their predecessors. Power-wise the KH250 was

4bhp down on the S1 with 28bhp@7500rpm and the KH400 suffered a similar drop with 36bhp@7000rpm compared to the S3’s 42bhp@7000rpm.The missing horses on both 250 and 400 were lost in the airbox, the carb jets and the silencers. Everything is relative, however, so don’t be fooled into thinking these threes can’t deliver a little excitement now, especially in these sterile times.After all, a two-stroke triple is still a two-stroke triple. The 250 got a front disc brake in keeping with the 400 that had boasted one since its S3 days.The S3’s rubber-mounted engine carried over to the KH400 which was further civilised in chassis terms with bracing and stronger mounts for softer shocks. Sales of the KH400 had been under pressure right from it’s launch in 1976 from the popular and superior Yamaha RD400 two-stroke twin – that was when people weren’t bypassing two-stroke 400s altogether in favour of four-strokes.The last KH400 model to be imported to the UK was the 1977 A4 although being slow to shift it remained on sale until 1980. In an attempt to whip up interest, there was even a one-make race series supported by Motorcycling Monthly.There were 15 rounds in total with £400 up for grabs by the winner at each one as well as a trophy and a Life helmet – remember them? The 250 fared better in contemporary sales terms because it remained an attractive

option for learners who were still allowed to ride a quarter-litre bike until a couple of years after the KH250 went off sale in 1980. Today, now that the KH250 and KH400 don’t need to sell themselves on the same terms as they did when they were new, they enjoy a popularity that puts them on a par with other two-strokes of the day. Certainly the prices they’re now fetching suggest they’ve overcome their second-tier status.

That’s the Bates Motel up on the hill he’s escaping from. Those ARE wheels will speed his departure Practical Sportsbikes 113


RESTORING

1977 KH250 B2 Owner: Ewen Macdonald Owned for: two years Paid: £200 Resto cost: £2000 “This was my first restoration and was a good choice as the KH is relatively uncomplicated. It was easy to work out where everything went. They were cheap back in 2008, but are getting really pricey now. When I picked it up it was in bits, and the parts and boxes pretty much filled the back of a Transit. Everything that wasn’t rusty had been painted olive green for some reason although the frame had been powdercoated. It was a major clean-up job; hundreds of hours in the garage. The wheels took a long time to polish up but I saved them. “Inspired by your articles on DIY plating I bought a replica chrome kit from Gateros (gaterosplating.co.uk) and managed to get a good finish, even on the exhausts. Any fasteners that had gone beyond recovery I replaced with new generic nuts and bolts. “When I opened up the engine I found three pistons of different sizes – standard, +0.5 and +1mm. I sent the barrels and crank to Grampian Motors (grampianmotors.co.uk). They bored the barrels for +1.5mm pistons. “I can’t remember who did the paint for

1977 KH250 B2 Owner: Lizzy Boyce Owned for: eight years Paid: £900 (for both) Resto cost: £4000 (estimated) “I’ve had my KH projects for a while but only really got into them over the last couple of years – I’m doing two; I’m building a 1977 B2 special for my partner, Phil ‘Reevo’ Reeve, and a standard B1 for me. “I like Kawasakis, you featured my 1978 KE175 in the mag. My KH will be all original – that’s how I like them. Phil’s will be a special with a 350cc top-end – it fits straight on – and custom expansions we found on eBay. “My bike came with a tank painted in B3 colours and a B3 engine. Through a friend on Facebook I was alerted to someone getting rid of a load of spares for just £100. Among them was a B1 engine in the correct serial number range for my bike. There was also a B2 tank, engine and frame and that is the base for Phil’s bike. I’ve given away and swapped a lot of the spares to get things I needed for my restoration. There’s a great spirit of cooperation and collaboration in 114 Practical Sportsbikes

me but it was someone I found through the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club (vjmc.com) – worth joining for advice and services. Simon Lister at Kawasaki Triple Parts (kawasakitripleparts.com) was brilliant for parts and advice. I also got a lot of help and some parts from my mate Willie Ralston who runs Dynotech Ecosse in Glasgow (dynotechecosse). I was able to get a surprising amount of original stuff like carb rubbers, cables and gaskets from Cradley Kawasaki

(kawasaki.cradleykawasaki.co.uk) – it’s always worth checking; don’t assume you have to buy pattern parts, but this was 10 years ago. “Switchgear was a problem. The cheap Chinese stuff I got from eBay went on fire so my solution was to use the guts of the old switches in repro covers. “I sold the bike for £2500 so there wasn’t any profit in the job but that wasn’t the reason I did it. I learned a lot from it and have done several restos and specials since.”

the Kawasaki Triples Club (Facebook and kawasakitriplesclub.com). Anyone with a Kawasaki triple should join. Rick Brett, the president, is the international authority on these bikes. He’s amazing. Z Power (z-power. co.uk) have incredible knowledge and a great stock of parts. Simon Lister at Kawasaki Triple Parts is excellent too. “Everyone in the club is on first name terms. You’ll find someone there to do most jobs. There’s a guy called Richard who’s big on pipes. He took the dents out of mine and rewelded them. Among my parts was an S1 exhaust I was able to swap for a missing B1 spannie. I swapped a couple of cranks with club member Gary ‘Downpipe 3’ Clarke to get mine rebuilt. “I like to do everything I can myself, rebuilding engines, making looms, painting. I did have the wheels rebuilt however, and of course need to farm out vapour blasting and the like. Some original stuff is hard to find. I was lucky to find two Euro-spec grabrails; the indicators mount to the grabrail. Centrestands and chainguards are scarce too. “One of my specialities is switch overhaul, refurbing and repainting the clusters. I overhaul the centre consoles too. I used rattle cans when I did the KE but have since bought a compressor and will use that when I repaint the tank in the correct B1 colours.”

Lizzy is taking on two KH250 restos, the B1 (top) and a special from the bare bones of a B2 (above)


A gentle waft of combusted two-stroke oil fills the slipstream, the sun is shining, happiness abounds

1975 KH400 A3 Owner: Jon Freeman Owned for: 18 months Paid: £3500 Resto cost: £1500 “My KH400 was a rider when I bought it. In fact I rode it home when I got it as it was only a couple of villages away from me. The engine seemed pretty strong and I stuck a borescope down the sparkplug holes and could still see the hone marks on the bores, suggesting it was a fairly fresh rebuild. So the engine work was limited to vapour-blasting the carbs and removing and polishing the engine covers. I also did the wheels and anything else that needed it. I have a sports car business so I have easy access to all the right equipment. “I’ve done concours restorations before but I wanted this bike to be more of a rider. I bought some Higgspeed expansion chambers because although there was nothing wrong with the original exhausts, I wanted something with more of a crackle. “The bike was still in its original orange although it was past its best. I think the orange is a bit dull so I got the correct green for 1976 from RS Bike Paint (rsbikepaint. com) and the guys who do our cars applied it. The stripes came off eBay in the States. “Our powdercoaters took care of the frame,

He’s got some nice, chilled ciders winking at him in that wee fridge. Go on, Jon, treat yourself...

swingarm, and top and bottom yokes. The wiring loom was in good condition so I stripped and rewrapped it; something we do a lot of at work. The switchgear was faded and tatty and the horn button didn’t work, so I replaced it all with aftermarket stuff from Kawasaki Triple Parts. I also bought a rear mudguard from them as mine was missing when I got the bike. They were often cut down or removed. The indicators also came from Kawasaki Triple Parts.

“There are a few things I can’t find such as the headlight brackets – I have aftermarket stainless ones for now. Another thing on the wanted list is an airbox and rubbers. I replaced the K&Ns that were on the bike with Ram-Air filters as I heard that the solid back of the K&Ns could restrict air flow. “I balanced the carbs myself then took the bike to BSD (bsd.uk.com) to be checked on the dyno. It made exactly 38bhp, just as the factory claimed. I’m happy with that.” Practical Sportsbikes 115


RESTORING

A good field bike, too

As much fun indoors as it is on the open road

EXPERT VIEW Simon Lister is founder and owner of Kawasaki Triple Parts (07798 884939, kawasakitripleparts.com). “I had a KH250 when I was a kid. Around 1999 I bought another. I needed bits for it so started buying and selling bikes, and by 2006 that had become the Kawasaki Triple Parts business. “Back then spares and project bikes were a couple of hundred quid each. Prices of the smaller triples have been on the up as the value of the bigger bikes increases. Owners of bigger Kawasaki triples looked down on the 250s in particular but they continue to rise in price. Everyone remembers them and at one time it seemed like they were everywhere – certainly they’re still coming out of the woodwork now. “I get the most calls about exhaust pipes, and they’re the hardest parts to find. If you can’t find some good enough to use or refurbish, you’re looking at aftermarket expansion chambers. Chromework is tricky, things like grabrails. I’ve had mudguards remade to meet demand for those. “When it comes to the engine, there are few issues, all easily remedied. The usual

116 Practical Sportsbikes

reason for a crank rebuild is a dried-out centre seal but you might as well have your crank builder overhaul the whole assembly while it’s apart. We have all the rods and bearings and offer a rebuild service. Good pattern pistons and rings come from Mitaka and RIK. “The manufacturers of the OE points for the 250s disappeared, and it’s hard to find decent pattern points now. It’s a good idea to go electronic. Boyer Bransden ignitions have been popular for years but the wasted spark design can place demands on the battery. I’ve started stocking Accent electronic ignitions from Germany. “The selector fork face for second is prone to wear and it takes a skilled welder and machinist to sort that. A popular transmission upgrade is a brass clutch actuator to replace the plastic original. These tend to break up and get graunchy with age.

“The wiring looms were rubbish from new. The one on the bike I had as a kid frayed at the headstock after six months. We offer full harnesses, switchgear, lights and so on as there’s little new-old-stock around now. “The KHs are a good bet for a resto. There’s enough parts and support around and the Kawasaki Triples Club is very active.”

Littlest triple has still got bags of character

Make sure clocks and console are all there

“Project bikes used to be a couple of hundred quid. Now prices of the smaller triples have been on the up as the value of the bigger bikes has increased”


PRICES Immaculate £4500-£5000 Rider £3500-£4400 Project £2000-£3400

Colours

MODEL GUIDE

KAWASAKI KH250 (KH400) Capacity: 249cc (400cc) Bore x stroke: 45 x 52.3mm (57 x 52.3mm) Power: 28bhp@7500rpm (36bhp@7000rpm) Torque: 20lb.ft@7000rpm (28.2lb.ft@6500rpm) Dry weight: 160kg (160kg) Front brake: 1 x 226mm disc

Model ID KH250 1976 B1 Two-stroke triple, front disc brake, locking fuel cap, pinstriping as per KH400 A3, KH250 sidepanel emblems, chrome headlamp brackets. 1977 B2 New colours and decals. 1978 B3 New colours and decals, reshaped seat, round front mastercylinder replaced by triangular unit.

1979 B4 New colours and decals. Black sidepanels. 1980 B5 Finished in Kawasaki Racing Green in tribute to Kork Ballington’s 250 and 350 World Championship successes. Black sidepanels with ‘250’ emblems, ‘KH’ printed on seat. KH400 1976 A3 Much like the 250 only bigger and with CDI ignition. 1977 A4 New colours and pinstriping like the KH250 B2.

KH250 1976 B1 Candy Sky Blue, Candy Super Red 1977 B2 Candy Wine Red, Candy Orient Blue Metallic 1978 B3 Candy Lime Green, Candy Cobalt Blue 1979 B4 Candy Lime Green, white, Candy Persimmon Red 1980 B5 Lime Green KH400 1976 A3 Candy Burnt Lime, orange 1977 A4 Candy Emerald Green, Candy Royal Purple

And who wouldn’t want one of these in their lives?

DO YOU LOVE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLES? The

VJMC is the club for you!!

Club Benefits:

Only

£30 per annum!

Local and National Shows Local section meets and ride outs Bi-monthly magazine Machine dating service Discounted bike parts* Technical Data Discounted Insurance* Free lunchtime parades with the CRMC And much, much more... *applies to certain companies

sIn the shed and at the show from commuter to superbike

www.vjmc.com


? m e l prob

What’s the

ts have the r e p x e r u O ? t h rig Bike not running ughest questions to answers to the

Thundercat front mudguard not the prettiest in the world

Yamaha TRX

Big guard issue I have a Yamaha TRX with Thundercat forks and am looking for an alternative front mudguard that will fit the Thundercat forks, rather than the standard one. Any ideas on an alternative please? Steve Beane, PS Facebook Group

Yamaha R1

All about balance I have a 2001 Yamaha R1 and have stripped, cleaned and refurbed the carbs with new parts after it was stored for a few years and refused to fire-up. The bike has done only 1400 miles. The pilot jets were completely blocked, yet the needles had only slight varnish. It’s all back together now, but will only chug into life on cylinders one and two from cold, with three and four chiming in when it’s warmer. The floats have not been touched or adjusted, all I did there was fit new genuine needle valves. The air screws are at 3 1/8 turns out.

Have I missed something on the choke side? Do I need to balance the carbs as I didn’t think I would have altered the balance? Nick Campbell, PS Facebook Group Saul Towers says: There’s a traditional starter plunger affair for the choke so unless you’ve managed to break the sliding mechanism that links them all together then it should be OK. You say you didn’t touch the float heights but are you sure they’re correct after changing the float needles? The usual caveats around pattern parts apply too. Assuming the float heights are correct and the carbs are properly cleaned you probably need to balance the carbs. They might have needed it even before the work you’ve done.

Yamaha XJR1300

Crazed and cracked

O U R E X P E RT S

The crazy world of Scott Davis (not Arthur Brown)

Alan Seeley Has now almost finished putting his CD and record collection in alphabetical order, but many of his XTC cassette tapes (recorded off the radio) are causing him some bother.

118 Practical Sportsbikes

Digging out my Yamaha XJR1300 after three years in storage, I removed the wheels to fit new tyres. On refitting the wheels I noticed marks in the paint. The front has them right round both sides of the wheel to the bottom of the spokes. The rear also has some but to a lesser extent. Is this stress on the alloy or ‘worming’ in the finish? I’m stuck in the ‘do I or don’t I’ phase of using them now. Scott Davis, email

Gary Hurd The man who put the drag in drag racing proves to be of some use this month as he assists reader Carl GZ with his VFR’s pulsing lever problem. Good old Nu-G.

Marco Willis-Lastarria says: Cracks in paint and powdercoat can happen for numerous reasons, typically that one of the coats is too thick, is too old, or the curing temperature has been too low. It can also be caused in use by exposure to sudden changes in temperature. I think that age and temperature changes are the likely culprits here. For now the damage looks to be only cosmetic. You could have them crack-tested for peace of mind, but just keep an eye on them.

Saul Towers Saul at Yamaha specialists Flitwick Motorcycles (01525 712197) is our go-to Yam man. Since this a Yamaha special issue... thank you Saul.

Ferret Ferret of Ferret’s Custom Electrickery (07765 832420) is a man for whom the tubed lightning holds no fears. VIR is as simple as ABC for this redoubtable fellow.

Saul Towers says: I cross-referenced the part numbers of the Thundercat fork bottoms to see if they were used on anything with a more attractive mudguard. All I found was a 1996 German model FZR600R which had a similarly gash mudguard. You could easily make up a bracket to adopt a few alternatives though, the fixing set-up is pretty traditional for that type of fork. I’d get hold of a knackered 2000 R6 mudguard and have a look at what it would take to make that fit. Trouble with the Thundercat is it has two widely spaced mounting points, upper and lower. Patience and imagination will get you there.

Yamaha FZ600

Relay bad idea Is there any way of testing a 1988 Yamaha FZ600 flasher relay? There’s no power going to the starter relay from this as required by Yamaha’s idiosyncratic wiring of the bike. Andrew Gray, PS Facebook Group Ferret says: Yamaha thought it would be a neat idea if the sidestand and clutch switch gubbins for the starter cut-out circuit were integrated into one unit along with the flasher relay. Genius. Rather than testing the relay, simply remove this gratuitously stupid feature, presumably only there to prevent even stupider FZ purchasers from removing themselves from the gene pool. Simply extract the two blue/white wires from the flasher unit connector block and join them together.

Tony Charlton is Technical Manager for the two-wheel division of Michelin (michelin.co.uk). He’s a cheery fellow and knows his rubber too. What more can you ask?

Marco Willis-Lastarria The PS is proud to introduce the head honcho at fabricators and finishers, True Fusion (truefusion. co.uk). He knows it all without being a know-all.

If you’ve got a problem with your bike, write to What’s the Problem? Practical Sportsbikes, Bauer Media, Media House, Lynch Wood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA, or email editorial@pspb.co.uk. If you have any relevant pictures, be sure to send/attach those too to assist our boffins in their enquiries


WHAT’S THE PROBLEM?

Honda CRM250

Let’s torque base nuts What tool do I need to buy in order to get this base nut undone on my Honda CRM250 Mk2 please? I am terrified of using an open-ended 14mm spanner as I just know that I’m going to round it off, but it’s the only tool that I poses that is compact enough to get on it. What am I missing please? I do plan to apply some heat – unless you tell me not to – as well as lashings of penetrating fluid. If I am successful in removing it, how do I then torque it on reassembly? The crow’s foot attachment that I bought specifically for this

sort of job has no chance of accessing said nut once attached to my torque wrench. Col Simpson, email Alan Seeley says: CRM? Good choice, sir. I am much enamoured of mine. You won’t need heat on these barrel base nuts, or indeed much in the way of penetrating fluid. I understand your reluctance to wade in with an open-ended spanner. If you do, I’d turn it a sixteenth of a turn tighter to ‘break the seal’ then undo it. Or you could make your own special tool by grinding down the outside of a ring spanner until it’s thin enough to go over. When it comes to torquing, the important thing is to be even all round. If you don’t trust your inbuilt self-calibration, get an idea for what the correct torque feels like on one of the nuts you can get to with a torque wrench, holding it a specific distance from the nut. Hold the spanner for the inaccessible one(s) at the same distance from the nuts as you did the torque wrench and tighten it the same. That, after all, is all a torque setting is; 18lb.ft, say, is 18lb at the end of a foot long lever, or 36lb on a six-inch lever. Good luck and enjoy the bike. Tricky to access with a socket, so use a custom ring spanner – and a bit of feel

Rack ’em up Wonder if I might test your tyre tech knowledge? What is the best way to store tyres that aren’t fitted to wheels? Flat and stacked like I have them now or vertical on a flat surface or vertical on angled wedges? Or does it really matter? Fringe Parnell, PS Facebook Group Tony Charlton says: Short term storage of a few weeks stacked on top of each other to a maximum of 10 tyres is OK, however storing them like this can cause the beads to close up slightly, making initial

This type of tyre storage is OK for a few weeks

inflating on the wheel quite difficult for tubeless applications. Longer term gravity and temperature fluctuations can lead to deformations, so we suggest it’s best to store them upright on a rack off the ground, and every few weeks rotate the tyres to avoid any flat spots forming. Tyres should be stored in an unlit, ventilated area at moderate and consistent temperatures away from any electrical sources and chemicals. Practically speaking in the garage, aim to raise them off the floor away from generators, compressors, and electrical devices like freezers, washers and tumble driers (because of the normal discharge of ozone from electrical motors in use, ozone is a strong influencer on tyre ageing. Motors also usually emit heat in use), fuel and chemical containers and heat sources, keep them upright and covered and rotate them 90º every month or two. A well stored tyre suffers minimally from the degradation by ageing, which is why a ‘new’ tyre can be several years old before fitting and be just as performant as a ‘fresh’ tyre, but a poorly stored tyre can suffer badly. This is why new old stock tyres can look good and even be as new for many years, while a fitted but unused tyre can start to crack and craze relatively quickly.

Honda VFR750

Warp factor I’m probably going to need to replace the discs on my Honda VFR750 as it looks like one of the discs is warped, there’s a noticeable pulsing at the lever. What’s your view on some of the lower-priced discs available on eBay? I’m not thinking of ones direct from China, but there’s a number of UK-based companies selling cheaper discs. I know the arguments about always buying the best when it comes to safety and established brands, but if I had the price of a set of Brembos available I wouldn’t be commuting on a 25-year-old bike. Carl GZ, PS Facebook Group Gary Hurd says: Hopefully your discs aren’t as bad as the one in the picture below. Before condemning the discs currently on the bike, check that your calipers are operating properly. Not just that the pistons are moving properly but that the calipers themselves are free to slide on their pins – this is one piece of maintenance that is often overlooked on your VFR’s Nissin calipers. It’s also worth checking to see whether dirt and corrosion is fouling the bobbins between the rotor and carrier preventing the disc from aligning. After all that, if it still proves to be the discs, please avoid unknown brands on the internet. EBC offer great quality at a reasonable cost, so shop around in that price bracket.

Here’s one from the PS Chamber of Horrors, a VFR disc worse than Carl’s one (we hope) Practical Sportsbikes 119


Steve Carbutt 1986 FZ750/1000 GENESIS Engine transplants, wheel swaps, brake upgrades, ‘bar conversion... you name it, Steve’s done it Words: Alan Seeley

S

teve Carbutt has been riding bikes since 1969 when he took to the road on a Yamaha YDS5E on his 16th birthday. Many bikes have come and gone since then but one in particular has been with him for a good proportion of his 52 years on two wheels. That bike is another Yamaha, an FZ750 Steve bought new 35 years ago, in June 1986. A bike that has had a Genesis 1000 engine in it since the 1990s. “I even remember how much it cost me,” says the 68-year-old retired turbo development engineer, “I’m unlikely to forget. It was £3150 from Eddy’s Motorcycles in Leeds, which was exactly 10 times the £315 I’d paid for the YDS I started out on. It came with the short lower plastic Yamaha fairings and bellypan and rear seat cover, as well as the full lower

fairings in glassfibre that Harris Performance made for Yamaha.” Steve is no slouch of a rider, even by the time he bought the FZ he’d achieved a fair bit on the race track racing at international level against riders of the calibre of Ron Haslam, Mick Grant, Wayne Gardner, Roger Marshall and Barry Sheene. He’d also finished in four Isle of Man TT races in 1982 and 1983, with a best placing of 21st and a lowest of 32nd. “In those days 120 bikes might start a race but only 40 would finish because the others broke down. I remember Mick Grant saying a finish at the TT was a win in itself,” says Steve. “My last lap of my last TT, in 1983, was my fastest around there at over 100mph.” Rapid rider or not, by the time the early 1990s rolled round, Steve and his 750 were struggling to keep up on the road with his mates on Yamaha Genesis 1000s and GSX-R1100s. Not that the FZ hadn’t

already had some modifications. Through his racing connections, Steve was friendly with Tony Dawson of Astralite wheel fame. “In 1988 I fitted Astralites in the 16-inch front and 18-inch rear diameters of the original wheels with the small FZ discs,” says Steve. “The beauty of Astralite wheels was that you could retain the centres, which were the really expensive parts, and change the rims to suit different widths and diameters of tyre. “I also fitted a Lazer 4-1 exhaust system and a Kawasaki-type steering damper, one I had left over from when I ran my own shop, SC Racing, in the late 1970s.” In 1990, Steve bought a used Öhlins remotereservoir shock from Yamaha doyen, Pete Beale. “It came off the FZ that Kenny Irons was killed on at Cadwell Park,” says Steve. For all the changes he had made to his

Back in 1994 on a PB photoshoot

Suzuki TL1000S rear wheel is a neat fit. Not sure about Steve’s digital gear indicators though 120 Practical Sportsbikes


THE REAL LONG-TERMERS

“BY THE TIME THE EARLY 1990S ROLLED ROUND STEVE WAS STRUGGLING TO KEEP UP WITH GENESIS 1000S”

You have to admit it’s in fine fettle for a well-used 1986 machine

FZ, there was no getting away from the fact that Steve was suffering from a deficit in the cubic capacity department. Pete Beale had an idea. “He suggested that the best thing I could do was fit a 1000 EXUP engine in my 750,” says Steve. “So that was the first engine transplant the bike got; this would have been 1991. It isn’t the best fit however. While the engine mounts line up, the carbs and airbox are too big so you have to run pod filters. Then the cooling and oil system plumbing is a major hassle, as are the choke and throttle cables. I actually had a coolant pipe blow off at Hillberry when I went to spectate at the TT. Then, in 1993, Pete told me he had a spare YZF750 chassis and he’d made plates for it to take an EXUP 1000 engine, so I bought that and transferred the EXUP engine into that, then a few months later I found a Genesis 1000 to put in the FZ.” Still with us? That’s some amount of engine transplanting and Steve wasn’t done

yet. The EXUP engine went back into the FZ in early 1994 when Performance Bikes magazine requested an EXUP-engined FZ for a back-to-back test against a YZF with a 1000 engine. Test done, the very next day the EXUP engine went back in the YZF and the FZ got the Genesis, and so it has remained ever since, Steve selling on the YZF/EXUP hybrid. “The Genesis is a much better fit, again the engine mounts are the same, but you can get the carbs and airbox in and the plumbing is tidy too. Even the exhaust matches up on the mounts all the way to the back of the bike; the 750 and 1000 headers are the same,” says Steve. In 1991 Steve replaced the Astralite front wheel with a Genesis 1000 17-incher and found a used 18in three-spoke Dymag for the rear. He fitted EXUP discs and four-piston calipers up front, fabricating alloy brackets to mate the EXUP calipers to the FZ fork legs. Steve also fitted Aeroquip braided brake hoses. In 1995 he

Mirrors are from a much newer Yamaha, an MT-09 Practical Sportsbikes 121


Well-used, and well-looked after, always makes for a happy bike

“THE PAINTWORK IS ALL ORIGINAL TOO. I KEEP WAITING FOR THE TANK TO ROT OUT BUT IT NEVER HAS”

Back in his days as a magazine star and sunglasses model

He’s hinted it might be for sale at the right money – but does Steve really mean that?

122 Practical Sportsbikes

fitted a secondhand 17in three-spoke rear Dymag. Since 1999, the back wheel has been a TL1000 item which fits with 2mm off one of the spacers. The Lazer exhaust Steve had fitted back in 1988 survived until 2000 when he refitted the original exhaust system. “The original pipes are complicated but clever,” says Steve, “there’s plenty of bottom-end even without an EXUP valve because of the way the headers are paired in a 4-2-4-2 arrangement. Bike manufacturers seemed to stop putting that much thought into these things soon after the FZ.” Around 20 years ago, Steve fitted the first of the two gear position indicators. “The first was made by a guy in Doncaster. He isn’t around anymore. The indicator picks up mechanically from the neutral switch. Something went wrong with it a couple of years back and it would only record first, second and fifth. So I got a cheap Chinese one off eBay that reads using magnets at the gear lever,” says Steve.


THE REAL LONG-TERMERS

One of the best four-strokes Yamaha have produced

FZs not wobble-prone, but damper fitted anyhow

LIVING WITH A YAMAHA FZ750

EXUP four-pots (same as later FZ calipers, but black, not gold) clamp on EXUP discs

In more recent times, Steve has fitted a pair of YSS progressive fork springs. Then, in 2016, he fitted an LSL handlebar conversion. “It makes for a more comfortable sit-up-and-beg riding position,” says Steve. “The FZ is long and carries its weight low so it makes for a stable ride. You sit on it and it feels right. My girlfriend Janet Taylor loves riding it as much as her own 2007 Yamaha FZ1S. These days the FZ is part of a larger stable so doesn’t do massive annual mileages. And Steve manages to ignore the lure of the track too. “I don’t even do trackdays now, I think they’re a bit dangerous. At least when you’re racing, everybody else is racing and when you get to national and international level they don’t tend to make mistakes that might take other riders out,” he says. We’re guessing the FZ is a keeper. “I’d sell it if the money was right, but then you’d sell anything if that were the case. I have everything to put it back to original, even down to the 750 engine which still turns over on a battery. “The paintwork is all original too. I keep waiting for the tank to rot out but it never has,” says Steve, “Aside from one burnt out alternator, the bike seems absolutely bulletproof which shows just how well these old Yamahas can last.”

“I’ve checked the valve clearances on the Genesis engine but never had to adjust any,” says Steve. “Apart from that, engine maintenance means regular oil changes with a generic motorcycle 10w40 semi-synthetic oil I buy in bulk drums to use in all of my bikes. “The only parts I’ve ever had to replace are the alternator and clutch slave cylinder seals. I got a load of alternators and some starter motors that had been removed from new race bikes by Pete Beale but apart from one alternator, I’ve never had to use any of

them. The clutch slave cylinder seals don’t seem to last well when the bike is left to stand over winter and I’ve had to replace them a couple of times. “When it comes to tyres, I tend to favour whatever is the current Michelin Pilot Road on all of my bikes. “I use SBS sintered brake pads as they seem to shed less black brake dust on my white wheels. “I use DID chain and it tends to last forever as although I don’t hang about, I do try to ride smoothly. My other golden rules are to be mechanically sympathetic and not thrash the bike from cold.”

THE MAIN MODS 1. FZR1000 Genesis engine. Carbs fitted with Dynojet kit. K&N panel filter in stock airbox. Genesis engine and ancillaries are a better fit than an EXUP but it’s hard to come by a Genesis engine these days for anyone fancying the swap. 2. Öhlins remote rear shock from Kenny Irons superstock bike, rebuilt by Maxton. 3. Genesis 1000 front wheel

with EXUP 1000 discs and four-piston calipers mounted with home-made aluminium brackets. Suzuki TL1000 rear wheel. 4. LSL flat-bar conversion, for comfort. 5. Kawasaki steering damper 1970s-style. Any thoughts the long and low FZ might have about getting flappy stop right here with this.

6. Digital gear indicators, because sometimes you lose count and find yourself looking for a nonexistent extra top gear. 7. YSS fork springs firm up the front. 8. Handguards get around the wind chill factor on cooler days. 9. Yamaha MT-09 mirrors for a clear view.

Remote reservoir Öhlins, and LSL flat ‘bar conversion, hand guards, this ain’t a stocker now

Practical Sportsbikes 123



THE PLAN To give a ’90s icon, the ZX-7R, the power and handling to trounce a new Kawasaki H2, with a GSX-R1000 motor... and a turbo.

PART

A fancy new bench, eh? Must be getting serious. Perhaps

204 PRO JE C T

ZX990 TURBO

AND THE FUN NEVER STOPS

Chris and The Fengineer inch their way to a conclusion. Let’s hope we’re still kicking in 2032 when they fire it up Words: Chris Newbigging Pics: Simon Lee ork continues apace on the 990, would you believe? The problems that have cropped up are being solved one by one, and the progress is appreciable, the task less daunting. You can tell we’re getting serious again: I’ve got a workbench especially for it – one of Alikat’s folding alloy jobs, which fits the compact space in my garage just nicely. It’s played a part in increasing the time I’ve spent fettling the bike, for sure.

125 Practical Sportsbikes

When I left off in the mag last month, I got straight on the web for some calipers. The rear bracket fits neither the original ZX-7R caliper, nor the GSX-R wheel now nestled in the swingarm. On the upside, that gives us options to fit something nice. Ten quid says your mind jumped straight to Brembo. So did mine. But the problem is the underslung carrier means any Brembo caliper will have the bleed nipple at the bottom. From experience with the 996, that makes bleeding them a minor arse-ache, involving unbolting the caliper and suspending it upside down to let the air escape properly. Brembos are also quite chunky things, so I looked for something more slender. Sliding single-piston calipers are a bit fugly, so those were a no-go. There are plenty of aftermarket options – ISR, PFM, HEL: take your pick. But all are a bit too overt, shouting ‘upgrade’. Chasing an understated sleeper finish (with at least some branding – it can’t be a deathtrap) is becoming a moderate obsession. Two bottles of strong cider later, I found an OEM caliper that is small, light, opposed-piston and underslung with the bleed nipple facing up. The one I found was from a near-new bike, and it came with a bracket that suits a 220mm disc – like the GSX-R. Can you guess what it’s from? It’s an oddball, alright.


Mystery brake caliper’s hanger sliced up for repurposing on the ZX990

“ONE OF THE MAJOR ISSUES WAS NOT KNOWING HOW THE TURBO SYSTEMS GO TOGETHER, BUT A LOOK AT GUY’S BIKE RECENTLY AT LEAST LET ME SEE HOW IT’S PLUMBED” Simon cuts spacers, and his nails, on a smart, new lathe

Less of this ‘hold it in place for effect’ nonsense, more welding, thank you. And if you’re going to show off your new spacers in-situ, you could at least fit the caliper the right way up. Honestly, some people

One job finished, at least. Let’s call that progress. Well done

126 Practical Sportsbikes

I sent the picture to Fengineer, who brazenly claimed making it fit would be – and I quote – ‘a piece of p*ss’. He took some measurements, took the new caliper plus the original bracket already tweaked to provide correct wheel fitment and centre the caliper over the disc. Many more, far uglier obscenities later, when he realised there wasn’t a simple change to be made, he sliced the caliper lugs off both parts, and welded the bottom half from the new bracket onto the main body of the ZX-7R carrier. Largely stress-free, just cursing. And wouldn’t you know, it fits. The new bit is the only part on show, and it’s a neat modern casting with some machined touches. It also has provision for a speed sensor – handy should we decide to change the dash or electronics at any point and need to fit one. A front brake change is simpler. European manufacturers mount their radial calipers with 100mm bolt centres, the Japanese 108mm. Either way, that gives you the option of just about any caliper, original or aftermarket, since they were first fitted to road bikes in 2003. Again, I wanted neat, understated, light, and efficient brakes to replace the clunky, poorly made GSX-R Tokicos. More hours, more cider, and I settled on monoblock Nissins from a 2013-2020 ZX-6R. These came from the USA – a top used parts buying tip, as they don’t suffer from water/ road salt damage (by and large). Plus there seems to be a plentiful supply of late, low mileage bikes tossed up the road: for the price of calipers needing at least a good strip and clean in the UK, I bagged immaculate calipers, and a matching mastercylinder. A wipe down and new pads will be enough – the lever is grazed from a low speed off, but it’s good to go. Discs are coming from EBC, not in the stock 300mm diameter of the K3 donor, but a full 330mm. Suzuki’s zero-offset, five-bolt pattern is common across many models, so switching to the 320mm size, or the 330mm size used on some new superbikes now, costs no more than direct replacements. Fengineer knocked up 15mm spacers to get the calipers in the right spot.


PROJECT ZX990 Turbo

If you don’t like plumbing, don’t get a turbo. Air and fuel pipes aplenty to squeeze in

EBC advise the larger size, and extra swept area per revolution doesn’t make a drastic difference to stopping power, but it does improve feel. We’ll be needing confidence in the brakes on a bike with the power to hit 200mph on the right gearing. One of the major issues I bellyached about last month was not knowing how the turbo systems go together. We’ve not built one before, and as well as the Garrett making threatening noises in the bellypan, there’s a load of special parts to fit: a blow-off valve, fuel pressure regulator and high-pressure pump, a new MAF sensor. None of which bolts straight onto a GSX-R, let alone the motor in a ZX-7R. Before I cracked into the box of stuff, we’d dropped in on Guy and Project 300. His ’Busa runs some different parts (the electronically-controlled wastegate for example), but enough is common between the two that at least I had chance to see how the bike is plumbed. I know my way around a bike reasonably well, but it’s a whole new world, and more to learn about. There’s plenty of room below the tank and behind the block, at least. Pump first. It’s now fitted on two huge P-clips, as the correct bracket wouldn’t fit to the frame crossmember that lends itself to the task. They turned up after these pics were taken though, so you’ll have to believe me. From there, I could work out the space I had to

Clarke electric die-grinder is another new toy, put to work making clearance for the manifold

Chris offering himself up to the bike to look like there’s progress afoot

Practical Sportsbikes 127


A reminder of why we’re doing this: the ZX990’s 250bhp party piece

PROJECT ZX990 Turbo

“THE KAWASAKI TANK IS GEARED-UP FOR CARBS, AND THE ONLY FITTING IS FOR A VACUUM TAP. THAT’S NO GOOD – IT WON’T FLOW ENOUGH, AND THE PUMP MAY EVEN SUCK IT SHUT”

route the fuel hoses in, and mount the rest. The inlet side of the pump will need a filter – to give the fuel hoses the easiest routing, the lines will feed from the bottom of the tank on the left of the bike over to the filter and pump inlet on the right. On the high-pressure side, it feeds a fuel pressure regulator, which then ensures the fuel rail is metered with super unleaded at the correct pressure. It’s adjustable, and is also influenced by boost pressure, by way of a line from the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies (which incidentally, will no

longer be vacuum ports, but pressurised instead). That’s an easy fix – mimicking the original vacuum pipework, with a small tweak to incorporate both the Turbosmart regulator and new MAF sensor, gets that done. But naturally, there’s another issue. The regulator has a return feed to dump excess fuel pressure back to the tank. The Kawasaki tank is geared-up for carburettors: a low-pressure pump only has to overcome gravity, and the only fitting on the tank is a vacuum tap. That’s no good – it won’t flow enough, and the pump may even suck it shut. Whatever happens, a return fuel feed needs adding to the tank. Not a big deal – an 8mm spigot in the tank will be all that’s needed to attach the pipe. But feeding it might be trickier: we’ll either have to weld up the tank and add a new inlet, or my

New pump to feed high-pressure juice...

..and a regulator to keep it in check

Does it fit? Yes it does. Out with the cordless drill, in with the rivnut kit to affix the fuelling parts under the tank

128 Practical Sportsbikes

preferred option – a late-’90s Yamaha tap. They’re the same 34mm hole centres as most Japanese bikes, but with a simple on/ off with both feeds from the tank draining fuel out via a spigot for 10mm internal diameter hose. Plenty enough for this application. As it happens, I’ve got a scruffy one knocking around. The lever will need chopping down, but as it’ll only be needed to stop fuel flow when the tank comes off, that’s fine. More of an issue is the body fouling the frame. I may get away with relieving the casting a little. Something to try for another day. We’re also finalising the turbo inlet feed. Gary mocked it up last year, just to make sure it’d fit, but it’s by no means a complete job. We’re hoping to use less silicone tube and clamps to join the alloy sections, so Simon has volunteered to weld as much pipework up as possible. Somewhere among that, the blow-off valve (also known as a dump-valve, there to relieve pressure when you shut the throttle or reach your desired intake pressure) will need to be fitted. The wastegate will attach to the plenum chamber too: once intake pressure is reached, excess gas on the exhaust side is allowed to bypass the turbine so it doesn’t spin faster than needed. From there, it’s on to wiring, then set-up. Plenty to be getting on with, but we’re in sniffing distance of actually running it.



In case anyone forgets – these things are for riding

Chris hits the highways on his 996, Adam Forsyth grabs two seconds at Oulton (although his dad will claim them), MG makes KH1F progress, The Fengineer makes great CRM-X strides, and MG’s FZ fights him with a clutch that won’t bleed-up

Chris Newbigging 2000 Ducati 996

Joy of enjoying what you’ve got Put your grand plans on hold. Fix the niggly bits, and just get out there on the roads

The sidestand master (ignore the pained look) 130 Practical Sportsbikes

he temptation to fiddle with bikes seems to become greater as the years pass. I love a project – so much so, I’m stringing the ZX990 out for as long as possible… But it’s all too easy to forget the point of tweaking, improving and restoring is to enjoy the polished results. I’d like a slipper clutch, for example. The dry clutch basket and hub wear out on these, and mine is particularly noisy, so I’ll take the opportunity to drop in a lovely hard-anodised billet-ally performance clutch, rather than another steel basket. Then there’s the fauxmonoposto subframe I’ve half butchered over winter to relieve it of the pillion footrest hangers and extraneous crap: it still needs

an ECU mount and refinishing. An unfinished project in itself… meanwhile, the bike has no MoT or tax. Or, at least it didn’t. Then I looked at it one day, and decided to shelve my plans to treat it to more goodies, and just enjoy the ones I’d got. So I booked it in at the Motorcycle Works here in Peterborough to get a ticket. But not before one last fettle… Italians can’t seem to design a sidestand to save their lives. Most Ducatis (from the cambelt era, at least) have them bolted to the crankcase for a start. Lean on it too hard, and you can write off the ’cases. The flip-up design some had in the 1990s must have netted the Castiglioni Group £1000s in clutch levers and nearside fairing panel sales.


PROJECT BIKES

Rucksack at bursting point. He’s now looking into getting a trailer for the 996

Digital inclinometer does not lie – much better

Off with the borderline useless old sidestand

Mine doesn’t flip, but it is flimsy and short. The bike teeters precariously on the tiny foot: it’ll sink into grass or hot tarmac, and topple over on a slope, or in a stiff breeze. The one upside of Ducati’s insistence on screwing them to the ’cases means they all have the same distance between mounting holes. Sifting through owners groups, I found some details of the choices for stand swaps. I opted for a 1098/1198 part. It’s still aluminium so suits the bike, but has a bigger foot and is reputed to hold 916 series bikes more upright. UK breakers seem to want to extract very many of your GBPs from you, so most cost three figures. But I found one on

Italian eBay for a reasonable £50 – with a light scuff on the end, but nothing a file couldn’t sort out. The 996 stand held the bike at 17º. It doesn’t sound a lot, but it is. The 1198 part, despite appearances, makes a clear difference, confirmed to be just under 13º on the digital angle box. It feels more secure, with less flexing. That done, I presented it for the MoT. All good, so out for a ride. The decision to park further improvement plans until next winter proves wise: instead, I get to enjoy what I’ve done so far. The pandemic and arrival of my second nipper last year meant I only used two or three tanks of fuel in 2020, so I’m reacquainting myself with the suspension overhauled by K-Tech, the power and response corrected by a Power Commander, and the benefits of changing the final drive ratio. Yes, 996s are lovely, but refining and modernising the details takes them to another level. I stop at some services for a sandwich. A bloke driving by jumps on the brakes, gawps in awe, then gives me a thumbs up and a huge grin. I don’t ride it for the attention, but you’d have to be an anti-social freak not to appreciate a compliment like that.

Bigfoot 1098/1198 (top) replaces original 996

That’s Pete O’Dell signing Chris’s tank for him

A BLOKE DRIVING BY GIVES ME A THUMBS-UP AND A HUGE GRIN. I DON’T RIDE IT FOR THE ATTENTION, BUT YOU’D HAVE TO BE AN ANTISOCIAL FREAK NOT TO APPRECIATE THAT

It’s all the motivation I need to find excuses to ride it: the family Skoda might see fewer journeys in favour of arriving at work, family, and social occasions in a crescendo of booming Termis, and clattering clutch. I’ll let something else satisfy my project urges for now [like maybe the ZX990? – AS, MG, MF].

New/old stand looks like it was meant to be

Evotech brake lever guard/bar-end How long: brand new

Cost: £100

9 10

Contact: evotech-performance.com All MSV trackdays, and many organised elsewhere by big trackday firms, require a race-style brake lever guard now. A minor bind and an obvious expense, but it is what it is. I’ve tried Evotech’s bike-specific offering on a KTM Duke 890R and Yamaha MT-09SP. Both fitted perfectly to the stock inner bar weight, with no increase in vibration level. Neither bound on the throttle, or moved on the handlebar. And the finish is nice too – factory, in fact.

Practical Sportsbikes 131


Perfect preparation pays: two second places at The Park

Mark/Adam Forsyth 2003 Suzuki SV650

Primates pull it out of the bag Monkey Wrench Racing put down their bananas and scorch to two seconds at Oulton Park Zoo quick wobble round Brands Hatch last month confirmed that my winter’s tinkering has borne fruit. Just a small fuelling issue to sort on one bike, and the discovery that the Maxton shock appears to be sprung and damped for someone half our weight. Easy fix. Disconnecting the Oxygen sensor has richened up the fuelling at the first touch (it previously felt like riding an early Honda SP-1) and swapping out the Maxton for the trusty old GSX-R 600 shock using my Harris footrest stands (see box out) sorted out the boingy rear end. Time to go racing. Round one of the Bemsee Rookie Minitwins at Oulton Park was massively oversubscribed. The organisers, bless ‘em, solved this problem by having a two-wave split grid. So transponder duly charged, scrutineering passed, we were finally ready to rumble at the early May Friday/Saturday event. 132 Practical Sportsbikes

The forecast was not pretty though, with heavy rain, hail and strong winds due to hit not just Cheshire but pretty much the whole of the UK. I packed my wellies. Adam seemed to be handling the pre-race

nerves thing pretty well. Better than me, for sure. I know pretty much every torque setting on the bikes from memory now and I spent my pre race time click-clicking all the crucial bits just to make doubly sure. Oh, and making tea.

Nothing forgotten? This is not the Forsyth way

Extra footpeg purchase in the wet? Scotchbrite


PROJECT BIKES

LOOKS LIKE ALL THOSE THREATENING CHATS ABOUT BEING SMOOTH AND SAFE AND HAVING FUN, WHILE SIMULTANEOUSLY WIELDING MY MONKEY WRENCH, PAID DIVIDENDS. ROUND TWO IS AT SNETT

Into Old Hall at Oulton, and on it

Practice at Brands, getting Surtees sized-up

Truly, this is one for the Forsyth family album

Practice was a 15-minute affair on Friday morning first thing. Practice also doubled as qualifying for grid position. That’s a big ask for a rider if you’ve never clapped eyes on Oulton Park before so Adam was sent out on the team pushbike on Thursday night to do a lap so at least he knew which way all the corners went. For practice, I jumped on the tread iron and pedalled over to Clay Hill to get some sort of idea of the rookie-ness of the rookie class. Clay Hill is a flat-out lefthand charge over a totally blind crest – if you’ve done it before, that is. From lap one it was pretty clear that

four riders had done plenty of laps of Oulton Park before and the rest were rolling off the throttle and craning their necks to see what lay ahead. We got one race on Friday, so after a whole load of waiting around and peering at the ever changing sky, the packed grid formed on a now bone dry track. From my vantage point at Druids I listened to the first wave start, then 20 seconds later Adam’s wave got under way. I was grinding my teeth, hating the tension. A very long minute and a half later the pack burst into the double apex right of Druids and

Hot Pirelli rear did well cleaning up the paddock

Comfortable(ish) and relaxed. As it should be

Adam was in second place, on the back wheel of the leader as they wheelied over the crest on the exit. I literally muttered ‘oh shit’ on the basis that he’d only done a mere six laps in practice. I watched him through the second lap and then decided I’d pedal back to the paddock and watch the race on my phone using TSL’s live timing app. That turned out to be a fairly fraught experience. I don’t like watching my boy racing: official To his credit he brought it home, sunny side up in second place – a feat he also repeated on the Saturday in the pissing rain. Looks like those threatening chats about being ‘smooth and safe’ and ‘having fun’ while simultaneously wielding my beloved monkey wrench, paid dividends. Round two is at Snett and all the bikes need are a wash, oil changes and some TLC. They may be two little plastic trophies but for what they represent to Ads, they may as well be made of solid gold.

Harris footrest stands How long: one year

Cost: £96 Contact: harris-performance

10 10

I love Harris paddock stuff. I’ve got one of their steering stem front paddock stands and it’s brilliant on the basis that I’ve got a different stem adapter to fit all my bikes, so one stand literally fits all. And quality is last-a-lifetime level. I bought these stainless steel footrest stands last summer for £96 shipped and they’ve been a godsend for shock swapping. Previously I’d been using the ratchet-strap round the garage rafters technique, but this is the way. Can’t recommend them enough and they look good enough to take pride of place on your mantlepiece.

Practical Sportsbikes 133


As much original S3 style as poss. KHI: they knew the ropes

Mark Graham 1976 Kawasaki KH1F

Slack old boy kicks it on a bit H1F 500cc lump in KH400 chassis gets a little bit closer to a life of smoke and piston slap ngine in, wheels in… a rolling chassis, no less. And it rolls nicely. You can tell an enormous amount about a bike by how it behaves when you’re nadging it around a garage. Is there too much, or too little, steering lock? Is it heavy, or top heavy? Is the steering light? All these things are fair indicators of how it’s likely to be when under power. And it feels right. Getting the engine in was a long, painstaking process. Grinding gradual

amounts off the polyurethane mounting bushes until it slipped into the hard frame mounts just easily enough to allow for final paint taking up some slack. Too loose and the draw-down of the bolts will stress the mounts. Too tight, and you’ll end up filing paint off. Getting it right takes patience, and the will to get it spot-on. Done now. The Alf Mossell-fabricated rectangular section steel swingarm slots straight in (obvs), rear brake torque arm requires a bit of

Oil pump deleted in favour of a 33:1 premix

New swingarm with robust chain tugs. Factory

134 Practical Sportsbikes

grinding to fit its slot (no big deal), rear brake requires a service: a massive clean in the diesel bath, a big blow with the wind pistol, copper grease on pivots and cam, and back in with fresh split pins securing the shoes. Adjustable ride height YSS shocks bolt on without the slightest agg. Neighbour John (an H2 owner) turns up to help lift the semi-roller off the bench and the first thing he says is how small it is. It is. It’s tiny. Once the front end is in I sit on it…


PROJECT BIKES

EBB AND FLOW ARE THE NORM IN ANY BUILD, BUT AN ESSENTIAL ELEMENT OF THE PROCESS IS KNOWING WHEN TO PUSH IT, AND RECOGNISING WHEN TO STEP BACK AND THINK A LITTLE BIT

Shortly to be registering 9000rpm and 75bhp

Scitsu tacho masks the ‘Early Man’ mounting

and it’s miniature. It’s an S3 after all. Small is good, small is light, and with a projected 75bhp to drive it, this thing should fly. This is one of those moments in a build when you start to see an end point, begin to rack up the next parts of the procedure more clearly in your mind, and get genuinely excited about an imminent conclusion. Ebb and flow are the norm in any build, but an essential element of the process is knowing when to push it, and recognising when to step back and think a little bit.

Should the steering damper fork mount go on the left leg, or the right? What might be in the way of it on full lock, on either side? Offer it up, umm and ahh, have a cup of tea… worry about it later. The four-bolt EBC floating disc bolts on after the threads in the hub are cleaned out with a shade-tree tap fashioned from an old M8 x 1.00 bolt (fine pitch) – cut two slots in it, and away you go. There was an awful lot of detritus skulking in the mounting holes after blasting, and peening. Be scrupulous with threaded holes.

EBC floating disc instead of nasty fixed original. Every little helps when stopping

Make a tacho mount for the Scitsu; cardboard template, 12 gauge alloy plate, jigsaw, keep enough clearance next to the ’bars to be able to remove the activation pin, skew it a tiny bit so the 9000rpm redline in toppermost in the rider’s eye view, and it’s right first time. Sometimes, when things don’t fight you, you almost get the impression you might half-know what you’re doing… But… no. The fancy CP2686 AP Lockheed front brake caliper is not going to fit. Not possible. It clouts the spokes. The original single-piston sliding caliper I gave to John, will have to be reclaimed: “Hi John, you know that caliper I gave you, and the fresh EBC pads, can I have them back?” After the customary amount of ‘good natured’ vicious abuse I manage to wrest the item back from him for a diesel bath, a brake clean squirt, and a blow clean. It’ll be fine. Modern brakes are way overrated. Everyone knows that.

AMAL Concentric Mk II How long: brand new

Cost: £200 each

10 10

Contact: burlen.co.uk 34mm instruments destined for the W650 hill climber – simple and cheap, £400 for a pair of new carbs is mighty good value. They are from the island of Great Britain, where AMALs have been made since 1066. Henry VIII was very fond of them, and was often to be found fiddling with main jets and needles with his many wives in the Hampton Court Palace bed chamber.

Practical Sportsbikes 135


Shaping up very nicely. That’s what happens when you have skills

Simon Lee 1999 Honda CRM-X

Fengineer puts us to shame Simon gets down to precision fengineering – and makes us all look like the bodgers we are ny project that starts with an engine swap isn’t going to be straightforward. Fact. On paper it all looks easy (according to Old Farmer Chris), but once the engine is in place the real niggles begin. The most glaringly obvious issue from last month was the water inlet located on the cylinder head. The CRM motor stands tall in the frame and the water inlet to tank clearance is impossible, the orientation is also incorrect.

Hacksaw time! The inlet has two connectors as standard for the twin radiators of the CRM. The CR chassis has just one larger radiator, meaning one of the connectors can be deleted. With the necessary aluminium removed, and one orifice welded up, the newly formed elbow made from 15mm aluminium tube can be attached to the stub. Welds are smoothed off – job’s a peach. On the subject of liquid and cooling, the eBay radiator gets offered up. This item, on the face

From original bifurcated head outlet...

...to a single. “Job’s a peach,” if he says so himself

136 Practical Sportsbikes

of it, looks much like the original. Its well-made, the welds are pretty neat and the mounts kind of line up, and it was £60 opposed to £300 for the genuine Honda part. When I say the mounts kind of line up this is in reference to the bottom mounts. These have required some bending to get them to align with the frame. This is in part due to the manufacture but also the CRM exhaust port height. This is fixed by spacing the radiator away from the frame, so it’s over to the lathe. Two 17mm spacers and matching aluminium washers are spun up in no time, with rubber washers inserted to keep the vibrations down. The stone guards for the radiator are still covered in MX crud, and after a quick scrub in the sink they look slightly less haggard… these are the joys of living alone, the parts washer doubles as pot washer. Taking a step back to admire the ferocious progress, consume yet more tea and posh biscuits, it’s looking pretty good. I decide to throw the carb onto the engine and see if the airbox lines up. Surprisingly its perfect, no


PROJECT BIKES

For hands that do dishes... scrub that MX crud

Offering-up the power valve servo... perfect

New rad neatly spaced back with rubber mounts

Katsu Tools nut riveter set How long: owned for 3 days

Cost: £17.99 Contact: amazon.com

8 10

Katsu isn’t a brand I was aware, however the build quality of this particular tool is sturdy. The rivet gun is steel. And the clasp that holds the tool closed also doubles up as a spanner to change the mandrels, nice touch. The set comes with aluminium rivnuts, from M3 to M8 in the usual increments plus the mandrels. It does exactly what it’s designed to do, with satisfying results.

Repair where plastics have wreaked havoc

dramas here. So, airbox back in the parts bin for the time being. But the subframe is looking far from perfect. Motocross bikes take a beating, and this one has seen 22 years of active service. The subframe is slightly twisted, but that’s not the bit that concerns me. Where the plastics and airbox fit to the aluminium there’s some serious wear. Its amazing to think that through vibration alone, plastic can erode aluminium. The TIG welder is called into action to build up the worst of the worn areas, these will be sanded back and finished with Scotchbrite to tidy things up. The box-section of the subframe has a number of rivnuts (rivet-nuts) inserted to secure the airbox, one of these has gone walkies. A perfect opportunity to purchase a tool I’ve wanted for years, a rivnut kit. Old Farmer Chris goes green as a John Deere with envy when I revealthis new purchase. So, expect to see lots of rivnut action across the projects in future issues. A missing piece of the puzzle are the cylinder head stays, these attach to the back of the head

MOTOCROSS BIKES TAKE A BEATING. WHERE THE PLASTICS AND AIRBOX FIT TO THE ALUMINIUM SUBFRAME THERE’S SOME SERIOUS WEAR. IT’S AMAZING TO THINK PLASTIC CAN ERODE ALUMINIUM and fix to the frame. I have one of the originals, but the second one is missing. The thought of making one didn’t fill me with joy so a quick eBay search found a pair for £14 – that’ll do. The parts were a direct fit. These head stays will serve another purpose too, the mounting of the RC Valve servo. The power valve (RC Valve) is actuated by a motor and two cables, it will sit perfectly next to the head stays. Too easy, right? Pass the posh biscuits, then.

Make us all look cheap with fancy fasteners, eh? Practical Sportsbikes 137


Not happening for him. And it won’t be the last time

Mark Graham 1989 Yamaha FZ750

An awkward little bleeder Clutch rebuild goes swimmingly... until it’s time to get some pressure in the line. No dice t’s four months since the FZ was abandoned when it wouldn’t start. And I’m not quite dumb enough to try it again for fun to see if it’s miraculously repaired itself for Summer. So, it’s off with the tank to get to the carbs, where a sticking choke mechanism is the prime suspect. There’s also the matter of fixing the clutch slave cylinder, and checking/replacing clutch plates, most likely just the friction plates. Here’s hoping. I haven’t got any spare steels. Clutch first, because it’s all easily get-atable. The slave cylinder recess is manky. Rusty, dripping with leaking DOT4, and as generally unpleasant as a 32-year-old unattended hydraulic clutch mechanism can be. So no surprises there. There’s still just enough lever pressure to push the piston out, which is good – at least it’s not seized. The bore is OK, the piston body is fine, it’s just the top that’s a bit rotten, where the old boot has perished. That soon comes round with a bit of Scotchbriting, and the new seal is slipped on with red rubber 138 Practical Sportsbikes

grease, new boot on the top, and the thing bolted back in after the pushrod has been greased up too. Now for the basket and plates. With the FZ on its sidestand, there are no escaping oil issues when the cover comes off. The green gasket says someone’s been in here before (which is not always a good thing), and it turns

out to be not a good thing at all. The clutch comes apart easily enough, both basket and centre are free from any nasty grooves, but the clutch boss ring is wafting around halfway up the stack, instead of nudged up against the first plate out from the seat plate and the first steel plate. Odd. Worry about that on reassembly.

This little scenario tells you a rebuild is required

Piston cleaned and freshened-up with new seals


PROJECT BIKES

STILL, NO JOY. WELL, I’M GOING TO THE PUB. SOMETIMES YOU WIN, SOMETIMES THE BIKE’S ON TOP, AND YOU’VE JUST GOT TO GO AWAY AND THINK ABOUT IT, THEN GO AGAIN

Japanese clutches tend to be strong and dependable things – unless left to rot for years on end

clutch boss ring will go where it’s meant to go – at least according to Floyd Clymer’s manual. So, whack it together and get with the bleeding programme. Ten minutes in, and many bubbles are escaping down the bleed tube. Ten minutes later, and the many bubbles have abated, it’s now clear fluid. But there’s no pressure at the lever. Go again, no more bubbles, yet still no lever pressure. OK, let’s bind the lever to the bar with a cable-tie and leave the thing overnight, so it bleeds back through the mastercyclinder reservoir… next morning, no joy. Ring Alan: “WTF?” “Yeah, sometimes there can be dirt stuck in the holes in the reservoir… so, give them a careful clean.” Still, no joy. Well, I’m going to the pub. Sometimes you win, sometimes the bike’s on top, and you’ve just got to go away, think about it, come back, and go again. Looks like a mastercylinder rebuild is the next step. Righto.

Craften circlip pliers How long: 30 years

Cost: £13.50

10 10

Clutch cover contains an intricate breather

Don’t forget to soak the new plates in fresh oil

Contact: amazon.co.uk

The plates themselves show heavy witness marks of having been moisture-bonded to the frictions (which they were, as the court decided). The friction plates look toasted and worn, but strangely enough all pass the minimum thickness requirement of 2.8mm. The steels all require a good sanding with 60 grit paper to remove the rust, and to

rough them up for their new life with fresh frictions. They all pass the flat marble warp test (0.1mm limit) and are well within the 1.92.1mm thickness range. After gently scraping old green gasket (most likely Athena) off both crankcase and clutch cover, it’s refit time, which in this case will not be the reverse of disassembly. The

The beauty of these is they’re switchable for either internal or external circlips. The little pair for little circlips, the bigger pair for bigger circlips. Yep. I bought these from a now defunct tool shop in Fulham, London called Grizzards. It was a top shop. Then, apparently, the son took over, started buying flash cars and whatnot, and it all fell apart. And I missed the closing down sale, too. They don’t have to be Craften, but always buy this type and then you don’t need four pairs.

Witness marks from being stuck hard for months

But soon remedied with a dose of 60 grit emery Practical Sportsbikes 139


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EDITORIAL Editor Chris Newbigging chris.newbigging@pspb.co.uk Art Editor Damian Smith damian smith@pspb.co.uk Technical Editor Alan Seeley alan.seeley@pspb.co.uk Production Editor Mark Graham mark.graham@pspb.co.uk Editorial Assistant Colleen Moore colleen.moore@bauermedia.co.uk

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Classifieds

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Practical Sportsbikes 141


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142 Practical Sportsbikes

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BUYING, FIXING & RIDING THE BEST BIKES FROM THE 70s, 80s & 90s

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Please mention when replying back to advertisers Practical Sportsbikes 143


1993 YAMAHA GTS1000

SEEING THIS IS a Yamaha issue, it only makes sense to include more Yamahas than I normally would. And to make things fair, I’ve almost picked a bike each from the other Big Four makers. I say almost. All except a Honda, as you’d expect from me. What I’m going to do differently this month is give myself a test to see how on the ball I am with the market prices. I’m writing this before any of these eBay auctions have finished, and in actual fact just as most of them are starting. I’ll say what I reckon they’ll go for and I’ll mention what I think they’re worth too. But the market is the market, and it finds its own level. And they’re not all projects either. Sometimes a bike comes along in good nick at decent money that’s just crying out to be bought. Like the Yam GTS1000. Some people reckon it’s a red herring, like a Suzuki RE5 Wankel – something just too odd to be of any real worth. It’s a bit like that, but the difference is the chassis technology works. Anyone remember Steve Linsdell racing one at the TT? Right, sixth in the 1996 Formula One race. Not 16th, even. That tells you all you need to know about the chassis, and the FZR engine is a given. These things are a bit heavy, yes, but they do work. Nothing like an RE5 (and it’s not often you’ll find me getting close to slagging off a Suzuki). It’s still all out there, happy hunting.

Lots of these in America, a rare old thing over here

UP FOR

£2595 144 Practical Sportsbikes

Well, it was up for £3600 but the listing was ended, the buyer messed him about and it came back on at £2995. It was a classified ad and then it went back on as an eBay auction. It had 36,440 miles on it, an MoT, was freshly service, and looked well-cared for. Someone did well there, and these don’t come up very often. In 10 years’ time when these are worth sod all you can come and laugh at me, but for now, I think that was worth every penny.

1979 YAMAHA XS1100 (BARN FIND) They should have shut it back in, got all the animals out, then set fire to the barn. I can’t see this making more than the £600 start bid, and that’s being generous. The engine doesn’t turn over, half of it is missing, the carbs look knackered, and they’re a nightmare to sort out on these things anyway. OK for spares, but demand isn’t huge for these anyway. I wouldn’t give £300 for it, assuming I wanted anything to do with it in the first place.

R SOLD FO

£640

As long as someone’s happy, that’s the main thing

1973 KAWASAKI 350 BIGHORN F9 Not many people are aware of these things, but they sold well in the US trail bike boom in the 1970s. Rarer than a DT400, and just as good/bad as a big two-stroke single gets. There were two for sale here, and I’ve opted for the one with the original tank paint because it’s in slightly better nick, and a ripped seat can be fixed for £100. It’s also got a Q/A throttle, and that Enduro front light looks good too. He’ll get the £2595 asking price, or near enough. Me? It’s a two grand bike. Tops.


A very cheap way of terrifying yourself

SOLD F

O

£750R 1996 SUZUKI RF900 Again, take your pick from two… I’m onto the later red one. There’s only 23,000 on the clock, it’s got the original exhaust, and the seller says the carbs are off and in a plastic bag. Perfect, saves me having to take them off as they’ll need going through anyway. The plastics look OK too, and we all know how tough these things are. He’s asking £750, which he might well get. If I was in the market for decent, reliable wheels, I’d be in for it.

OR SOLD F

£2350 1986 YAMAHA YZ490 EVO If you want pure evil in a motorcycle this is it. Monster of a thing, and it’s a runner too. I don’t know what’s happened to the cosmetics, but it comes with fresh mudguards and a seat cover, so that’s a plus. The DG tail pipe was the thing to have back then too. It looks like it needs nothing more than a good spruce up, even the rims and spokes look OK. But the tank is wrong. For me, it’s a two grand bike, but I can see the right buyer paying nearer three.

All stock and in pretty tidy order. A good buy

FOR

0 5 5 £

D SOL

Chris will be sitting there, finger poised on the button...

1988 YAMAHA FZR1000 GENESIS This is in terrible order, tank and plastics are too far gone, and the bits on it are not exactly things people are fighting over. If you had one of these you’d be trying to put later wheels and brakes on it. This is almost scrap value, even though it runs. £200 of my money to sell for spares, but I can see someone going to £600 if they’ve got some fiendish masterplan for it. Not for me. It’s in very poor condition, but at least it’s all there

RELISTED

£250 1950S MOBYLETTE

And what, you may ask yourself, is a Mobylette doing in PS? Well, you should know that Chris (our editor) is a Mobylette owner. He’s never explained his reasons, but then I’ve never asked. Everyone’s allowed something a bit potty in their lives, otherwise where would we all be… I wouldn’t know if it was all there or not, but the engine looks complete. Starting at £300, it’ll finish there. Worth nothing to me, I’d just crush it if I sat on it after a resto. Wonder what Chris is going to bid for it? Practical Sportsbikes 145


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