T H E C L I N I C C O L L E C T I O N
CONTENTS
CONCEPT BRIEF EXHIBITION HOLLAND & SHERRY NEW DESIGNERS PAUSE MUSE SHAPE COLOUR TEXTURE FABRIC FABRIC MANIPULATION TOIL THE CLINIC COLLECTION OUTFIT 1 OUTFIT 2 THE CLINIC COSTING EVALUATION REFRENCES
The Clinic Collection is a ready-to-wear women’s capsule collection, designed and created for spring / summer 2017. The collection takes inspiration from a wide variety of aspects ranging from contemporary to historical resources. The collection follows the forecasted trend Pause; which focuses on the movement into the future. The collection uses a mix of contemporary fabrics such as latex and plastic, blending them with more traditional fabrics such as Holland & Sherry’s wool’s, creating a new and unique women’s wear collection. The clinic collection aims to take its main inspirational aspect from Holland & Sherry fabric and re-contextualise it for a more contemporary and urban market. The Clinic Collection aims to create an innovative and contemporary design concept, leading to the production and creation of a new high end fashion collection. The collection will achieve this aim through the extensive and in-depth research and development of a variety of contemporary and historical resources. The collection will take inspiration from current fashion trend forecasts and new contemporary designers. The collection aims to re-contextualise traditional fabric and present them in a new and contemporary way. This aim of the project will be achieved through different methods of fabric manipulation techniques such as foiling fabric and laser cutting. The 2017 spring / summer trend ‘Pause’ focuses on the move into the future and how fashion will adapt and develop. Integrating technological advances with design allows fashion to blur the line between style and functionality. The Clinic Collection focuses on functional details and designs and has a modern yet minimal direction. The Clinic Collection develops the idea of a clean and clinical approach by stripping back and having a heavy focus on fabrics and attention to detail.
CONCEPT BRIEF
The Clinic Collection’s colour pallet offers a calming and relaxing mood with the use of cold whites and blues along with pastel greys. The colour palette is clean and easy to take in; the subtle use of orange detailing allows the palette to look light and fluid. The Clinic collections use of orange against the deeper blues and grey enhances the urban within the collection. The collection brings together an unusual mix of fabrics with a variety of different textures. A mix of frosted plastic’s and latex used show the clean and clinic like side of the collection. The collection focuses on contemporising traditional Holland and Sherry fabric by using techniques such as foiling; causing the traditional wool to become almost plastic. The medical inspire collection’s look focuses on oversized and over exaggerated shapes and strong defining lines. The structured bold shapes are matched with clean raw edge finishing’s to create a minimalist look. The collection follows the lines of pristine shapes and attention to detail. The collection mixes a variety of shapes and silhouettes from fabric that is tight across the body revealing the true human form to garments that are oversized and bold on the body. The Clinic Collection is a high end capsule women’s wear collection that will retail in high end stockist such as Harvey Nichols. Prices of each garment will reflect not only the interesting designs but the quality and uniqueness of the fabrics used and the techniques also used within the collection. FKA Twigs a young performer known for her unusual and interesting take on fashion and style will be the muse for the collection. The Clinic Collection brings a refreshing new look to urban fashion and hopes to inspire mainstream fashion to work with new and contemporary fabrics that will one day lead the way in the fashion world.
One of the collections first inspirational aspects was from a range of two different contemporary exhibitions show cased in Edinburgh. The first exhibition ‘Another Minimalism’ held at the Fruitmarket Gallery show cased the work of Robert Irwin. The art instillation ‘Acrylic Discs’ was the first influence in the creative process for The Clinic Collection. The clean curve of the plastic discs contrasted with the straight line cut through them. The art piece was presented in a white cube space which reflected the minimalism of the discs. The Clinic Collection blends both circular shapes with bold lines to create a dramatic and raw aesthetic.
EXHABITION
The second exhibition was hosted at the RSA where the art instillation ‘Acquifer’ by Juliana Capes was on display. The art piece consisted of a mixed medium of plastics, latex, liquids and ink. The Clinic Collection took inspiration from the use of mixed mediums on latex and how different liquids create different textures. The Clinic Collection focuses heavily on the use of plastic and latex in the collection. Both exhibitions have a strong contemporary and minimal mood that the clinic collection works towards and tries to recreate a clean atmosphere.
The Clinic Collection works to re-contextualizing and contemporizes traditional Holland & Sherry fabric. During the research stage of the collection the Holland & Sherry factory based in Peebels was visited to find inspiration. The collection was inspired by the heavy use of check in some of Holland & Sherry’s fabrics. The inspiration took from Holland & Sherry laid the foundations of the entire project and collection.
HOLLAND &
SHERRY
The Clinic Collection took the first inspirational aspect from the use of check in many of Holland & Sherry’s fabric designs. Through the creative process the traditional check pattern was re-designed and re-created to have a more minimal and contemporary vibe. By re-contextualizing check it allowed the collection to show a new modern movement. The clinic collection worked at oversizing the check and stripping it back to minimal horizontal and vertical lines. The collection also took inspiration from one of the fabrics from Holland & Sherry; an oversized orange and blue check fabric matched with an oversized white and pastel blue fabric. The mix of orange with white and blue worked well together and The Clinic Collection works to re-create the bold yet simple colour combination. Final garments within the collection are finished with orange detailing such as orange stitching and piping used also. The orange piping matched with clear plastic zips and foiled panels is to replicate the oversized check of traditional Holland & Sherry fabric. Techniques such as foiling fabric have been used in the collection to replicate a new texture to fit the aesthetic of The Clinic Collection.
RACHEL LEUNG
MELITTA BAUMEISTER
SAMUEL YANG
PAUSE
The spring / summer 2017 trend Pause influenced the collection in a variety of different aspects such as colour, texture, shape and silhouette. Pause focuses on the function of technology within fashion and how exploring the boundary between manmade and organic is the future; focusing on the new idea of technology and fabrics The Clinic Collection uses a variety of contemporary fabrics and techniques to create fashion forward and creative ideas. The modern and minimal mood created within The Clinic Collection is driven by the trends focus on blurring the lines between modern technology and functional fashion. The mix of textures presented within Pause are clean and simple, the collection looks to recreates these textures with a variety of modern fabrics such as frosted plastic and latex.
FKA Twigs is a current singer and performer who is constantly in the public eye due to her unusual style and fashion. The performer is usually seen wearing new designer’s collections on stage for her tours and has a unique and recognisable style. FKA Twigs works on a lot of projects and would be perfect to show case and lead The Clinic Collection into the public eye. Twigs is a 28 year old urban artist and the ideal target market for the unique pieces within the collection. FKA Twigs would be interested in The Clinic Collection for its bold and contemporary look and would hopefully inspire and interest the target market.
MUSE
MARKET
The Clinic Collection is a high end luxury collation targeted at adults from the age of 25-35 year old who enjoy shopping luxury fashion brands and have a high disposable income. The Clinic Collection offers a new and alternative take on contemporary fashion that customers would be interested to invest in. The target customers would enjoy following high fashion, the latest trends and would be interested in a variety of different creative aspects. The collection targets people who are not afraid and enjoy buying creative and interesting pieces for their wardrobes. The collection would be sold in high end luxury retailers such as Harvey Nichols. The Clinic Collections hopes to offer a move into the future of fabrics for its customers and will hopefully stand out in the high end market due to the collections contemporary fabrics, unique shape and attention to detail.
The collection focuses on over exaggerated shapes and bold silhouettes with the use of precise circles and bold defining lines. The large bold shapes are paired with clean raw edges to represent a minimalist collection. The mix of smooth soft curves from figuring grabbing material contrasts against the defining straight lines. The use of structured fabric such as thick neoprene’s and plastics cause exaggerated shapes and structured silhouettes. The soft minimalist tailoring of garments within the collection help keep the collection structured with bold lines.
SHAPE
COLOUR
The Clinic Collection uses a range of peaceful and tranquil tones ranging from pale pastel blues to soft greys to deep blues along with clean whites and detailing’s of vibrant orange. The collections use of stone blue and deep greys show the deeper side of the pallet which helps to enhance and exaggerate the clean sharp shapes against pure whites. The use of soft tranquil colours reflect the medical mood within the collection. The colour pallet offers mystery with the use of cold whites and blue shades along with pastel grey, the pallet provides a pure and calming effect which is pleasing to the eye. The contrast of vibrant orange within the collection keeps the palette light and fluid, orange is only used as detailing’s such as stitching, binding and piping which keeps the collection urban and fresh.
The Clinic Collection focuses heavily on clean wet like textures and tries to re-create these textures on fabrics. Inspiration from clinic like jars of water to clinical creams the collection looks to hospital materials for texture. Plastic gloves and medical appliances inspired the collections use of fabrics such as latex and plastic. Working with a variety of urban and contemporary fabrics allowed the clinic collection to have a smooth soft finish. Using techniques such as foiling Holland & Sherry wool created a plastic like coating over the wool which is smooth to touch, creating a more contemporary texture to a traditional fabric.
TEXTURE
FABRIC
One of the main key aspects within The Clinic Collection is the unusual and contemporary use of exciting and new fabrics; from traditional Holland & Sherry wools to frosted PVC to neoprene to matt latex. By foiling Holland & Sherry wool it re-contextualises the fabric and makes it appear plastic like matching the other clinical fabrics used within the collection. The heavy use of neoprene keeps the clinic collection urban and young.
The Clinic Collection uses a variety of fabric manipulation techniques and finishes. The most effective use of manipulation within the collection would be the foiling of fabrics and also the use of laser cutting. Laser cutting is used on a variety of different garments through the collection adding attention to detail and enhancing the clean clinic like features. A mixture of functional detailing’s such as large plastic buckles and opened ended plastic zips are used through the collection to blend fashion and functionality.
FABRIC MINIPULATION
The latex garments within the collection were of most importance therefore the most amount of time and effort was put in to perfecting the final latex garment. The latex top had multiple trials and errors in order to create and finish it the correct way. A constant toiling process requiring a large amount of time was dedicated to the latex garment. The glue used on the latex garment can take up to two days to dry and has to be made with the most care in order to have a clean and professional finish. To achieve this finish the garment has raw edges which also work with the concept of the clinic collection. In terms of comfort and functionality of the garment an opened ended zip was inserted into the back of the garment so it is easy and comfortable to get in and out of.
TOIL
The final neoprene coat in the collection required the most amount of time in the pattern process as the pattern had to be manipulated and changed several times to achieve the shape and silhouette needed. After a numerous amounts of toils created the coat was toiled in a thin white neoprene; however the soft neoprene did not hold shape very well and needed more structure. Also due to the neoprene being so light it caused the buckles to hang off the coat which was unflattering. A more structured and bulk neoprene was purchased for the final coat and was successful in creating the desired oversized shape and silhouette.
The plastic lab coat created was difficult to toil with as it was hard to match a fabric similar to the final fabric purchased. The final frosted PVC fabric was structured yet draped in some areas. In order to get the correct shape and fit the coat was toiled in a stiff mesh that represented the final fabrics structure in the closest possible way. After toiling the coat to the first initial design idea the coat appeared a little simple so adding details such as a belt at the back, cuff and a flap at the front of the coat it became more commercial and interesting.
T H E
C L I N I C
C O L L E C T I O N
T H E
C L I N I C
C O L L E C T I O N
OUTFIT 1
OUTFIT 2
T H E
C L I N I C
COSTING
The Clinic collection is a high end luxury collection and the prices of each garment will reflect the time effort and money invested into each garment. The final fabrics used ranged from prices of £13 to £38 a meter, also a number of expensive finishing’s used such as a clear plastic zips priced at £14 each. The garments within The Clinic Collection will range from around £350 to £1,700 to cover the cost of the production of the garments and also to compete with competitors in the same high end luxury market.
The main aim of the collection was to take inspiration aspects from Holland & Sherry fabric and to re-contextualise it for a contemporary and urban market. I believe I was successful in achieving this aim by being able to take a traditional fabric and present it in a new way by using techniques such as foiling and laser cutting. I was able to create an innovative and contemporary design concept which then lead to the production and creation of a new high fashion collection. Through my extensive and in-depth research of both contemporary and historical resources, such as current trend Pause, I was able to work through the development stage in order to reach the end result and produced my collection. During the process from concept to finished garment I was able to overcome new problems and create solutions and work through the difficulties that arrived during the entire course. The main issue and concern throughout the entire course was time management and the limited amount of time to produce garments to a high quality standard in such a short space of time. I believe the main strength within my collection is the creative concept I worked from and was able to produce a final collection that was clear and understandable. Another strength I believe was my development and exhaustion of multiple different fabric manipulation techniques and being able to produce garment from unusual materials with these techniques. One of my weaknesses in creating the collection was not allowing myself the time to finish garments to the highest possible standard. I believe the final garments produced are successful however could have been finished better and had more detailing. I believe I have learnt a variety of new skills and how to overcome problems, however if I was able to do it all again I would have pushed myself further in some of the design with my garments. I would have liked to have more detailing such as pockets on some of the trousers and jackets as I feel it would have pushed my collection even further. Overall I believe I have achieved the learning outcomes to the highest possible standard and created a contemporary and exciting capsule collection.
EVALUATION
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ROBYN GRIFFITHS CAPSUAL COLLECTION PERSONAL ANALYSIS DOCUMENT