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CITY (ISSN 1551-3262) is published monthly 12 times per year by Rochester Area Media Partners, a subsidiary of WXXI Public Broadcasting. Periodical postage paid at Rochester, NY (USPS 022-138). Address changes: CITY, 280 State Street, Rochester, NY 14614. Member of the Association of Alternative Newsmedia and the New York Press Association. Copyright by Rochester Area Media Partners LLC, 2023 - all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopying, recording or by any information storage retrieval system without permission of the copyright owner.
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First place for our third places
BY LEAH STACY LEAH@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
The James Beard Awards — arguably the highest honors in the food and beverage industry — happen each year in June, right around the time roughly local 30 bars and restaurants are collaborating on Rochester Cocktail Revival, New York State’s only weeklong spirits festival.
I’ve been the producer of RCR for almost eight years now, long before I became the editor of CITY. When I was offered this job, one of my stipulations was that I’d still be able to work on RCR, not only because it means so much to me but because, I think, it makes such an impact on the city.
There’s a concept called the “third place” that I think about a lot. It refers to a social setting away from the ‘first place’ (home), and the ‘second place’ (work). For many of us, that tends to be a place in arts and culture — maybe a theater or gallery, but more likely a bar or restaurant. Somewhere you’re greeted by name, and your order is even on the way before you settle in. An escape.
RCR 11 happened June 3-9, 2024, and this one was different from the last few years in a very specific way. It was not a glimmer, but a revelation that the industry has finally returned to what we were hurtling toward in 2019 — and by we, I mean the entire region’s food and beverage scene — and where we are poised to go from here.
There was little to no mention of
Rochester or the Finger Lakes during the 2024 James Beard Awards. But over here at WXXI, as we’re putting the finishing touches on our annual food and beverage issue, I’m raising a glass to my hospitality friends and colleagues. Here’s to surviving a massively tough few years. Here’s to your passions, your ideas. The hours you pace in the night, the sleep you didn’t get (at all) during the pandemic. Here’s to resilience. The hits came, and you got back up.
Back to creating ‘third places’ and events where people can experience life; enjoy a good meal with family; fall in love over a craft cocktail; brainstorm the next big idea in a bright coffee shop; cut loose with friends during a DJ night; unwind from a long day at a dimly lit bar.
Cheers, friends — the fire’s back. With this issue and beyond, let’s fan the flame of our food & bev scene.
INTERN WITH CITY
We’re hiring a spring 2025 intern! If you’re a current journalism or media major who loves storytelling and wants boots-on-the-ground experience, apply here: tinyurl.com/vry496ha
CITY SOCIAL | FOOD + BEV ISSUE
Join the CITY crew at Lila's, a local restaurant in the lobby of Hampton Inn & Suites Rochester Downtown on Thursday, November 7 from 6 to 8 p.m. Meet the team, pitch a story and toast our November 'Food and Bev' issue. Free; all ages welcome.
REPORTER: Alyssa Belasco, age: 42. Executive Director, New York Kitchen
SOCIAL: @alyssabelasco / alyssabelasco.com
HOMETOWN: Rochester
READING: I’m a glutton for quality content! I just started reading “The Cocktail Parlor: How Women Brought the Cocktail Home” by Nicola Nice, and I subscribe to “Full Pour” magazine, reading each issue cover to cover; food and beverage stories are some of my favorites.
EATING: We’re currently renovating our kitchen in the historic Browncroft neighborhood, so eating out is now more necessary than ever. Our go-tos include Peels on Wheels, Fiorella (Thursday gnocchi night, bar seat), Pintxo Wine Bar (happy hour) and anywhere I can get falafel (Cedar and Aladdin’s are always in heavy rotation). I’m a huge fan and supporter of FLX wines; the Finger Lakes region is making craft agriculture magic happen and I’m excited for what the 2024 vintage will bring. Bubbles are always a good idea, and I’m currently loving Heart & Hands (Cayuga Lake), Hermann J. Wiemer, Standing Stone Vineyards (Seneca Lake) and Living Roots (Keuka Lake) Blanc de Blancs sparkling wines. I also regularly stop at the Living Roots Rochester location for a jar of Meredith Dairy marinated goat cheese—it’s my go-to dish to pass alongside a crusty Flour City Bread baguette.
PLAYING: With a 37-minute commute to Canandaigua for work, I’m regularly listening to podcasts en route, including The Sporkful with Dan
Pashman, TED Talks Daily and Armchair Expert. I love independent films; my husband and I are members of The Little Theatre, and we love everything A24 is releasing. Live music and local festivals are my livelihood, and while I haven’t seen Taylor Swift perform IRL, I’m a big fan of Cruel Summer (a local live band tribute to the Eras Tour) and will be seeing them again in December—this time with my nieces.
OBSESSING OVER: Timber House concerts in Victor. As a nonprofit, 100% of ticket sales go directly to the musicians performing. These intimate house concerts are where it’s at!
RECOMMENDING: Marilla’s Mindful Supplies on South Avenue (they have another location in Geneva). I try to live a low(ish) waste life, and it’s incredibly satisfying to refill items using their bulk selection—from olive oil and gummy worms to dish soap
and body wash. Marilla’s also stocks Little Seed Farm natural deodorant and I cannot recommend this product enough. It actually works, I swear I don’t smell!
TREATING MYSELF TO: A foot massage from Happy Feet on Park Avenue, spanakopita with a side of lemon potatoes and kafteri spread to-go from Voula’s Greek Sweets and a THC seltzer on the couch with my husband, Bill, and our boys — dogs Ollie and Max.
SHOUTING OUT: New York Kitchen’s Tasting Room manager and sommelier, Chris Schmitt, and the curated craft beverage lineup he features. Not only does Chris have great taste and wine knowledge, he’s also incredibly thoughtful about the products he selects for the tasting room and how he introduces them to our guests and staff. I regularly leave the office with something new he’s recommended to sip on at home. Cheers to that!
Interested in being a CITY R.E.P.O.R.T.S. interviewee? Send an email to leah@rochester-citynews.com.
PHOTOS PROVIDED
Off menu
Restaurant Good Luck breaks bread during a decades-old hospitality tradition.
PHOTOS BY ROBERTO LAGARES
“If you're having a bad night, someone's going to pick you up, and vice-versa.”
PHOTO ESSAY
BY ROBERTO LAGARES BERTO@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
Every Tuesday through Saturday by 4 p.m., family meal is served.
It’s usually in a large pot, placed on a wood-topped table in the back half of a busy kitchen at 50 Anderson Ave., the residence of Restaurant Good Luck. The staff meal is a longstanding tradition within the restaurant industry, most recently popularized by the Emmy Award-winning show “The Bear.” But family meal is not a new concept.
“It's certainly not something that we've invented, but it's certainly something that we think is important,” said Dan Martello, co-owner of Good Luck. Sometimes referred to as ‘staff meal’ or simply ‘staff,’ it’s a time to break bread among every part of the establishment, bringing front of house (servers, bartenders, hosts) and back of house (cooks, dishwashers) together.
Beyond nutrition, family meal serves as an opportunity to get creative, reduce waste and build a bond across the entire staff.
“It's about camaraderie,” said Martello. “It's about making people feel welcome and happy about their job.” As an owner and lead chef, Martello has been around since Good Luck first opened in 2008. He has placed importance on creating an atmosphere where people want to work, and family meal plays a large role.
Line cook Logan Moynihan has been with Good Luck for two-and-a-half years. On a Tuesday in late October, he prepared the onions for his family meal dish. The responsibility of preparing family meal is a daily rotation, and each person has their own strategic approach.
“Our goal here is to kind of help give people a creative outlet,” said head chef Ryan Simpson. “Day-today, if you work on a station, you (cook) the same things every single day.” Simpson has been with Good Luck for five-and-a-half years. He started out as a line cook, then worked his way up to sous chef and eventually, his current role.
That creative outlet begins with the staff shelf. In an effort to minimize waste, the shelf is home to excess ingredients ready to be used up before they expire. “It's fun because you go in there and there's a bunch of random things that you can use,” said Moynihan. “Sometimes, you make the weirdest random concoction of stew or some pasta that has a bunch of things in it.”
This hodgepodge of ingredients challenges the family meal chef of the day to come up with something unique. “Sometimes it's really good, sometimes it's not so great,” said Simpson. “But (my favorite part is) just seeing the creativity and the process of how people approach different ingredients and try to find a way to make it all come together.”
Prep for service is still in full swing while family meal is being made, so the balance and teamwork must be well-orchestrated. While line cook Nate Zimmerman preps tomatoes for dinner service, he also stirs Moynihan’s curry for family meal.
“I make a curry, that's my go-to because I feel like you can add a lot of things,” said Moynihan. “It’s utilizing the staff shelf, but it's also tasty.”
“Rain or shine, family meal will always be served (before) service,” said grill cook Faith Boyuk, who’s been at Good Luck for a year. “Some days are busy, but it’s important we share a meal together and when something is a priority, it’s not hard to be consistent.”
Front of house staff tucks into Logan’s curry as they begin their pre-service meeting. “We always compare a service at Good Luck to a stage production,” said General Manager Mariel Brinkerhoff, who has been in her role for more than a year. “As soon as we open our front gate at 4:30 p.m., it’s like the curtains rolling back. It’s important for everyone to take a moment to sit down together, go over plans and details for the evening, and have something to eat.”
The tradition creates an opportunity to connect staff members who don’t always work shoulder-to-shoulder. “You want to have this connection with the rest of the people around you, because it's a team,” said Martello. “If you're having a bad night, someone's going to pick you up, and vice-versa.”
Family meal is also something to look forward to, especially for those who may not have a chance to eat right before work. “I love staff because I usually wake up and go to work, so having a meal that is usually pretty filling to get you through the night makes a difference,” said barback Madeleine Dumont. “It helps me save money, (and) I work a lot, so not having to worry about making food on work days is a relief.”
On Saturday mornings, back of house staffers Kaila Wheeler and Boyuk take pride in setting up brekkie (slang for breakfast, for the uninitiated). This once-weekly take on family meal stems from an era of Martello’s past, long before Good Luck’s inception.
“It's our last day of service,” said Martello. “We're coming off a hard week, coming off a busy Friday, let's sit down. Let's have a little breakfast.” What started out as a two or three-person affair has grown organically to anywhere from six to 10 people. “I think everyone looks so forward to it that it just grew to something bigger,” he said.
“Come get your brekkie,” yelled Simpson as Moynihan placed his curried oxtail shakshuka on the table. But first, the staff crammed into the walk-in to observe a tradition of their own making: Saturday brekkie officially kicks off with a toast where whoever chooses is welcome to a ‘car bomb’ (a shot of whiskey and Bailey’s dropped into a pint of Guinness). “As the team celebrates their final day of service for the week, “it’s a ra-ra moment,” said Martello. “We're gonna conquer one more night.”
Foodlink’s community café, staffed in part by its enterprising trainees, serves fresh food to familiar faces.
Where everybody knows your name
BY PATRICK HOSKEN PATRICK@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
Every weekday by 7:30 a.m., William Smith arrives at Foodlink’s community kitchen on Mt. Read Blvd. for food prep. By 9 a.m., he sets up at the Foodlink Community Café located in the Central Library’s Bausch & Lomb building downtown. When the café opens at 10 a.m. for its lunch rush, Smith is ready to greet some familiar patrons.
“I do this for the passion. Ain’t even about the money,” Smith, a café crew member, said. “Just watching how much joy is on people’s faces that they know they could come here every day, and we’re reliable, and everything’s going to be great every time.”
Since Foodlink’s café opened in 2021, it has become a place for, as its name suggests, true community. That was built into the mission, according to Jes Scannell, Foodlink’s vice president and senior director of career empowerment initiatives who helped get the restaurant off the ground.
Subsidized “Mission Meals” are $3 — one sandwich or flatbread pizza with a side of soup, mac salad, fruit or salad and a water to drink. Guests can also pay it forward to help cover the cost of other diners.
“You can give us your change,” Scannell said. “We’ll have folks that come in get Mission Meals and then get a new job or something like that and drop
KayJona Rogers completed Foodlink’s Career Fellowship Program and now runs her own catering and private-chef business, Taste of Kay.
PHOTO BY LOUIS RESSEL
a $20 when they get their first paycheck because we supported them through that time. They value the community we’re creating here.”
That includes the workers like Smith, who completed Foodlink’s Career Fellowship Program before getting hired at the café. He initially entered the program after, as he said, “a few bad life decisions.”
“I had to really ask myself, what can I do for the rest of my life that I actually enjoy doing?” Smith said. “That made all the sense in the world to me: cooking. I could see myself doing this all the way ‘til I’m 80.”
making friendships.”
November finds the tenth class beginning its pre-apprentice training just as the preceding fellows move on to kitchen work. They’ll spend time learning knife cuts and food safety, among other skills.
In the second part of the program, the apprentices work at the café learning equally essential expertise: serving customers and taking orders at the register. Scannell said it’s become increasingly commonplace for traditional back-of-house restaurant employees to deal with customers directly; Foodlink adjusted its training accordingly.
Chauncy Anderson, the café’s supervisor and a former fellow, calls that socialization a highlight of the job.
“We take pride in learning about people, knowing what they like and just being friendly and having a conversation with people,” he said. “That’s what this café is for me. It’s about caring about people, showing love to people, feeding people and
Anderson is also the talent behind the Chauncy Chocolate Chip Cookie, a menu staple. Smith, meanwhile, recommends the Top Notch Tuna pressed sandwich, which pops with unexpected honey mustard and banana peppers.
Foodlink prepares around 10,000 meals per day at its community kitchen, including what it provides to the Rochester City School District. The café likewise focuses on fresh ingredients made from scratch and not, as Scannell said, “opening cans.”
Between facilities, there are moving parts that need to be aligned. That, too, is a teaching opportunity.
“The fellows are learning the importance of really checking off the list and making sure you have tomatoes in the van, because by the time you get here, if you don’t have tomatoes, you don’t have tomatoes,” Scannell said. “A lot of folks have food-truck aspirations or want to be business owners. It doesn’t happen unless you suffer the pain of no tomatoes.”
The Foodlink Community Café offers subsidized $3 meals and a pay-it-forward model.
PHOTOS BY LOUIS RESSEL
KayJona Rogers was one of the fellows who helped open the café in 2021. Now, she runs her own catering and private-chef company, Taste of Kay, and cans her own proprietary Rasta Pasta Sauce at Paul Guglielmo’s Craft Cannery in Bergen.
“(Foodlink) gave us the opportunity to be a part of the menu planning, giving out different suggestions for the café,” she said. Eventually, her own jerk seasoning ended up in a few dishes. “It helped show people that I came from a program just like you, and maybe someone that you know might be interested. You could do it, too.”
One element is clear: Restaurant work is never easy. The first eight weeks of the program almost always find some fellows reconsidering their placement there.
“‘Do I want to chop onions all the
time?’ It’s not sexy,” Scannell said.
But it’s a starting point.
At the end of those eight weeks, the program holds a moving-up ceremony where the fellows create their own dishes — “a bite that’s of their culinary perspective,” Scannell said — incorporating something they’ve learned so far.
“We shut the café down for traditional sales and ring around this room with people in their chef whites and their bites, and they get to explain what it is,” she said. “We welcome the whole community, their nominators and their family to come in and see. That’s how we introduce new fellows.”
It’s the kind of celebratory atmosphere Smith can see himself in long term.
“The vibe is always vibrant,” he said. “It’s always love, even on the down days.”
William Smith was hired at the Foodlink Community Café after completing the apprentice program. PHOTO BY LOUIS RESSEL
Geneva’s Chef Samantha Buyskes gathers friends wherever she goes, for the betterment of all.
Filling a long table
BY PETE WAYNER
If it’s true that only six degrees of separation exist between every human on Earth, everyone’s third degree is Samantha Buyskes. At least, that’s how it seems.
Daryl Hall of Hall and Oates?
Sam Buyskes. Ted Allen, the bespectacled host of “Chopped”? Busykes. Rosalía Chay, the chef who introduced a thousand-year-old Mayan tradition to the barbecue season of “Chef’s Table”? Yup. Anyone that’s eaten in a Cheesecake Factory in Atlanta, Boston, New York, Chicago, Pasadena, Redondo Beach, Woodland Hills or Marina del Rey? Well, they may not know Buyskes, but they owe her for their fettuccine alfredo.
After 36 years in the food and hospitality industries — 22 of which she spent in the Finger Lakes — Buyskes knows everyone. Her perpetual string of connections and colleagues stems from a life of constant evolution.
“I mean, that’s what an entrepreneur is, right?” she said. “It’s somebody who has the ability to reinvent and to be flexible and rise above the storm.”
Buyskes was born into the storm of apartheid South Africa. Nelson Mandela was in prison, and the nation was convulsing to break free of state-enforced segregation. She remembers her mother, a fashion designer, shoemaker and jeweler, risking social and legal fallout by employing and raising money for African families.
Fifty-two years later, Buyskes is a mosaic of experiences that span thousands of miles and at least
as many connections. At age 16, she started her first restaurant job at Ponderosa as a waitress, then quickly expanded to cashier work, washing dishes and working the line. A few years later, she worked as a server at a Cheesecake Factory in Atlanta. Management asked if she wanted to train the staff in a new Chicago location, which led to her traveling around the country opening restaurant after restaurant.
“I’m not (culinarily) trained or anything like that,” she said. “So my time with the Cheesecake Factory, I say, is my ‘college.’ I learned a ton about operations and consistency and quality and recipe development and opening and training and staff development. It was priceless.”
Her proverbial graduation took place after opening a location in Boston, where she found herself burned out in her twenties, working 80-hour weeks and looking for an exit. She started serving and bartending in a local bar whose clientele asked her to cook at their vacation homes in Newport, Rhode Island. She talked it over with a friend while “If You Don’t Know Me By Now” by the British soul and pop band Simply Red crooned from a nearby radio. Considering her own auburn curls and taking a cue from fate, Buyskes dubbed her new company Simply Red Catering.
“That’s always been a part of what I bring to my life and my career, is the ability to pivot — and I hate that word,” Buyskes said, explaining that, for her, ‘pivot’ wears the pall of the pandemic.
During COVID, she left a brief, miserable stint at a Ramada to become a private chef for the exodus of quarantine-fatigued foodlovers who sought refuge from New York City and Philadelphia in the lake houses around Seneca. Her website houses a collection of customized menus that bear witness to her ability to pull together flavors, cultures and ingredients local to the Finger Lakes.
These private events are still an arm of Simply Red Events and Culinary Adventures, the umbrella covering Buyskes’s endeavors. Also included is FLX Farm to Fire, a traveling, open fire table inspired by her visit to a boucherie in Georgia (the state, not Republic
— an important distinction that will become clear later), where she met an artist who builds barbecue smokers. For her, he built a live fire table — the same table that she convinced Daryl Hall’s staff to let her use on his show, “Live From Daryl’s House.” She also runs Simply Red Kitchen, a brick-andmortar on Seneca Street in Geneva, where she preps for events and hosts regular pop-up dinners ranging from crawfish boils to ramen nights.
On the ‘adventure’ side of the business, Buyskes hosts culinary tours around the world. In 2025, she’ll shepherd small groups of guests through markets, cooking classes and kitchens in Peru, the Republic of Georgia, Turkey, Sicily and South Africa. When this article hits newsstands, she and about a dozen other people will be in Mexico for a 12-day journey tasting tacos al pastor in Mexico City, floating over the pyramids of Teotihuacán in hot air balloons and observing the Day of the Dead in an Oaxacan cemetery. Each anchor point of these respective itineraries is hosted by someone Buyskes met and broke bread with, metaphorically and literally.
“My soul is fed off of going to places that I haven’t been before … and connecting with locals,” she said. “I just have a knack for meeting the right people and being in places where I talk about what I’m doing and they’re like, ‘Oh you should meet so-and-so.’ And that so-and-so introduces me to so-and-so.”
One of the ‘so-and-sos’ Buyskes met during her many phases in the Finger Lakes was Michael Warren Thomas, who hosted a radio show about gardening, food and wine in the region for 26 years, earning him the moniker “the voice of the Finger Lakes.”
Thomas remembers interviewing her for the first time after her restaurant in Trumansburg, Simply Red Bistro, reopened in a new location at Sheldrake Point Winery (yet another pivot).
“I interviewed her about food and just found her to be endlessly creative,” he said. “If I wanted to become a chef, I think she would be one of the key people I’d want to work with to learn the ropes and become a smart chef — not just a good chef.”
Thomas, who has interviewed several hundred chefs and restaurateurs during his career, said Buyskes stands out not only because of her skill and savvy but how the ripples of her network buoy the place she calls home.
“It reinvigorates our region,” he said. “It brings some new blood, new people to the region. Some of those people stay, some go back to wherever they came from and talk about the Finger Lakes … She’s not paid to be a Finger Lakes promoter but she just is — that’s what she does because she loves the region.”
To Thomas’s point, Buyskes flows talent attention into the region and, when called for, taps the skilled here to lend a hand wherever it’s needed as an extension of the community she helped create.
“It’s really where I’ve planted my roots,” she said. “I’ve been here longer than I lived in South Africa. I’ve been here longer than I’ve lived anywhere in the United States.”
During the pandemic, Buyskes literally fed the people who have become her neighbors, working with the 501(c)(3) Blueprint Geneva to make 150 weekly meals for people in need. On Nov. 15, she’ll bring together FLX culinary talent for a tasting event at Bright Leaf Vineyard to benefit chefs impacted by Hurricane Helene.
“This is a community of people that I have found,” she said. “We lift each other up.”
Samantha Buyskes, chef and owner of Simply Red Events and Culinary Adventures, preps for an event on Seneca Lake. Buyskes brings back local ingredients from her travels, like dried Mexican cascabels and chiles.
Bottom right, Simply Red Kitchen on Seneca Street in Geneva, with Buyskes’ FLX Farm to Fire open fire grill table in front.
PHOTOS BY PETE WAYNER
Buyskes released a cookbook, Mama Red’s Comfort Kitchen, in 2008.
Retro cravings
BY NATALIE RIETH
When a cooled cake is ready to frost, self-taught baker Ali Gala usually has a rom-com film or podcast playing in the background. She’s in her zone, piping bag in hand, letting her baker’s intuition guide her to Disco Sugar’s freshest retro design.
“There’s no better feeling than sitting down to a blank canvas after the rush of grocery shopping, prep, baking and dishes,” Gala said. “I love that I get to express my art in a way that is tangible and brings people joy.”
Gala is the owner of Disco Sugar, a social media-operated boutique bakery whose frilly vintage designs are often juxtaposed with bright-colored icing, disco balls and trendy phrases like “Leo Szn.” Whether it be a birthday treat with a pop culture reference, or an elegant multi-tiered wedding cake, Disco Sugar’s bold bakes are meant to look, taste and feel like a celebration.
“For me, I think the joy of baking comes from having a major sweet tooth and appreciating how much a cake can add to a party,” she said.
Vintage style cakes bring Gala back to childhood, reminiscing about all the cool cakes her mom bought for birthday celebrations. “I love that there’s this nostalgic element,” Gala said. “I was totally that little kid sneaking a finger full of frosting from one of the shells at the bottom of the cake.”
Meet the one-woman cakery powered by social media.
Growing up, Gala mostly baked with boxed cake mixes, but, as part of a third grade project, participated in a Wilton cake decorating class, where she learned piping basics.
Gala’s baking hobby resurfaced in 2020, when she began sharing to Instagram the progression of her decorated cakes made for friends and family. While some piping skills resurfaced from her lessons at Wilton Studio, Gala learned the bulk of her expertise from Googling techniques, watching Instagram reels and chatting with baker friends online.
That same year, Disco Sugar’s first-ever customer, Alejandra Yuja, was scrolling through Instagram when she discovered Gala’s account @disco.sugar and sent a direct message inquiry about purchasing a girly grunge birthday cake for her Olivia Rodrigo-obsessed sister.
From there, Disco Sugar took off organically, originally selling only mini cakes in the first six months.
As Gala became acquainted with the business side of running a homeoperated bakery, she continued to perfect her taste quality and began to take on larger, more ambitious bakes. “The taste kept improving, the frosting just got better and better,” Yuja said. “My sister and our friends were all hooked.”
What originated as a creative outlet for Gala has since expanded into a lively network of over 17,000 followers, made up of customers and bakers from around the world. Gala, who plans her weeks to fit in roughly 12 pre-ordered custom cakes, remains the sole baker running Disco Sugar, both in the kitchen and on social media.
Ali Gala launched Disco Sugar in 2020. PHOTOS PROVIDED
Once an order is confirmed, Gala collaborates closely with the customer to ensure their cake dreams come to life. While some book with a distinct vision, others leave it to Gala’s imagination and freestyle piping. One of her favorite cakes — which she prepared for by re-watching the timeless romcom “13 Going on 30” — was inspired by the iconic dress worn by Jenna Rink (Jennifer Garner), garnished with studded stars and edible butterflies.
“She makes every customer feel heard with their ideas,” Yuja said. “I’ve given her creative freedom with some of my cakes and she goes all-in to make the vision happen.”
Frosted facade aside, It’s important to Gala that her cakes taste just as good as they look. From the classics to a decadent red velvet, Disco Sugar clients can choose from a variety of sponge flavors with jams and whipped
frosting fillings to pair. Gala said chocolate is a steady fan favorite, while lemon is a popular request during the summer season.
Though cakes are a temporary treat, clients can bring Disco Sugar’s lasting vibe to their home with faux-frosted tissue boxes, mirrors and photo frames made by Gavla and sold at Figgy Studio & Shop on Park Avenue. Gala also hosts several decorating parties each year where, while relaxing to disco music and surrounded by themed decorations, students practice piping techniques and decorate mini cakes with sprinkles, cherries and other embellishments supplied by Gala.
“It’s super fun to meet everyone in person, and I go all out,” she said. “I always leave exhausted but with my heart so full.” instagram.com/ disco.sugar
PHOTOS PROVIDED
Celebrating Desi culture with local South Asian
grocery stores.
Festive foods
BY SUHASINI PATNI
Rochester is full of vibrant, immigrant-run businesses that specialize in products and services catered to myriad cultures in the city. For many Indian immigrants, Desi (a term used to describe the Indian subcontinent and their diaspora), grocery stores offer a slice of home. A place where they can speak their native language and find everything from methi parantha (flatbread with fenugreek leaves) to red avial poha (flattened rice flakes). Rows of shelves are lined with prayer garb, garlands and attar (fragrant essential oils).
In a city with a thriving food scene, it can be tempting to go out every night, but specialty grocery stores offer what restaurants cannot. Packaged snacks give a glimpse into life outside of the United States (on a budget). Staple ingredients and hidden treasures rotate seasonally. Store attendants have recipes passed down to them through generations.
The South Asian community recently celebrated Onam, Navaratri and Diwali; but Desi festivals span the entire year, giving many reasons (and treats) to celebrate. Chandni Sud runs Spice Bazaar at 364 Jefferson Rd., with her husband, Tharushan Thavakumar, but it was her father who opened the business.
“My dad immigrated here in the 80s, and his older brother gave him some money to either go to school or start a business,” said Sud. “At that point, there was very little diversity in Rochester. Not that there weren’t many South Asians in the city — we just didn’t have a community. So, he
Grocery stores like Namaste and Spice Bazaar give the South Asian community a place to shop staples and special items during festivals.
PHOTO BY ROBERTO LAGARES
opened the first Indian grocery store in the city.”
Sud’s family is from Punjab in North India, and her husband’s family is from Jaffna in Northern Sri Lanka, so they try to serve the entire South Asian community. Spice Bazaar itself remains very much a family business; the couple’s children are often in the store, an aunt and uncle run cash registers, a cousin stocks shelves.
“Our parents worked really hard to ensure we didn’t lose our culture,” said Thavakumar. “We struggled being some of the only ‘minorities’ in school. It is great to see how much Rochester continues to grow.”
Some of their shoppers are students from the expanded international programs at Rochester Institute of Technology and the University of Rochester; others are curious cooks or adventurous eaters.
“Beyond the South Asian community, no one wanted to try out Indian food, but in the last decade or so this has changed,” said Sud. “We get people from all over. Many Americans come asking about ingredients such as turmeric to learn about its health benefits. For people who want easy food, our ready-to-eat meals are especially popular.”
In addition to takeout and dried goods, the store has everything from henna kits and stencils for rangoli to Rooh Afza, a rose-flavored syrupy drink devoured during Eid, and Kesari Thandai, known for its cooling effect and intoxicating sweetness during Holi. Spice Bazaar also orders fresh sweets from New York City vendors on a weekly basis.
“Since I grew up in a family with a restaurant and grocery business, festival foods were available to me year-round. The most special thing about a celebration are the sweets,” said Sud as she assembled a to-go box with a selection of favorites: badaam barfi (almond fudge), cham cham (sweetened milk balls with nuts), rasgulla (sweetened milk dough) and gulab jamun (milk balls with rose water and cardamom).
At Namaste Grocery and Grill, 3675 W. Henrietta Rd., Gurpal Singh handles the restaurant side of the store. Singh immigrated to New York City in 1985 and moved to Rochester five years later; he, his brother and nephew opened Namaste in 2004.
“There were only two other Desi stores in the city,” he said. “In
the store we usually get more Desi customers, but the restaurant attracts an international crowd. People like paneer and chicken makhani. We do special buffets for festivals.”
Singh grew up in Haryana and celebrates festivals in the Hindu and Sikh temples. Atte ka halwa (roasted wheat flour with ghee and sugar) is given as a religious offering in a Gurdwara (place of worship). Singh also mentioned Lohri, a harvest festival celebrated in North India to bid goodbye to the harsh winters (something Rochesterians can definitely get behind). The festival centers around a bonfire where offerings are made as people sing and dance to welcome a bountiful season ahead, often while enjoying til papdi (caramelized sesame seeds), shakar pare (deep fried wholewheat flour balls
encased in sugar syrup) and bags of roasted shell-on peanuts.
Traditionally, Singh would eat makke ki roti (maize flatbread) and sarson ka saag (spicy curry made of mustard leaves) with gur (cane sugar) on the side — but rabdi (a dessert made with condensed milk and sweetened nuts and cardamom) is his favorite part of Lohri.
Namaste stocks organic gulal (color) for Holi, frozen gujiya (a deep fried delicacy) and ready-to-eat samosa and kachori. Their produce, stocked fresh twice a week, is a goldmine: a variety of eggplant, okra, Indian gourds, red chilies, banana blossoms and raw mangoes.
Both stores offer a variety of traditional foods, fried snacks and raw ingredients. Aisles of pickles, whole spices, lentils, rice and flours are a haven for anyone interested in South Asian cuisine. There are traditional options for fasting: seasonal pumpkins, sabudana (tapioca pearls), makhana (fox nuts) and kuttu atta (buckwheat flour). The large selection is a testament to the small grocers of Rochester — serving the diverse communities of an immigrant city.
MORE SOUTH ASIAN MARKETS Desi Bazaar, 1713 Crittenden Rd #1411 | Indian, Afghan and Turkish Gorkhas Grocery, 537 State St. | Nepali and Bhutanese
International Food Market, 1175 Marketplace Dr. | South Asian, Turkish and Eastern European
Gurpal Singh, right, with his nephew Harcharnjit Singh, run Namaste Grocery & Grill. PHOTO BY ROBERTO LAGARES
Chandni Sud, center, with her husband Tharushan Thavakumar, back center, help operate Spice Bazaar in Henrietta which is owned by Chandi's parents, Chander and Shobha Sud. Running the store is a family affair. PHOTO BY ROBERTO LAGARES
East coast migration
BY ABBY QUATRO
The Finger Lakes wine region has long been an underdog, but lately it seems the tides are turning. While unpredictable climate hurdles are no surprise anymore, heat and the threat of fire on the West Coast is becoming something winemakers can almost set a watch by. What does this mean for the industry — both in this country and beyond — and are Finger Lakes winemakers ready to pave the way for the future?
ALL-IN ON HYBRIDS
JULIA & ALEX ALVAREZ-PEREZ | USONIA, CAYUGA LAKE
Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez didn’t come to the Finger Lakes to blend in. Burned out from the San Francisco restaurant grind, they packed up and headed east to blaze their own trail.
“We didn’t want to be the thousandth producer on the West Coast making low-alcohol, minimalintervention wines,” Alex said.
So in 2018, they chose the Finger Lakes, a place where they could actually make a dent. The pair is focused on farming first. Insistent on as little intervention as possible, they are sourcing from small, like-minded growers and turning out wines that defy expectations.
“We’re firm believers in hybrids,” said Alex. “First and foremost, they just make sense. Why fight the land? Grow what works and figure out how to make great wine from it.”
This isn’t typical Finger Lakes
As climate change continues, Finger Lakes winemakers could be poised for greater success.
wine making. Riesling? Sure, they’ll still make it, but don’t expect them to lose sleep over the process.
“There’s plenty of great Riesling around here, but that’s not what gets us up in the morning,” Alex said
And the people are starting to get it. At a recent tasting in Texas, Julia pushed Cayuga White, a grape most had never heard of, without issue.
“I was worried they wouldn’t know what to do with it,” she said. “But they didn’t care. Crisp acid, low alcohol — they were in. That’s what we’re after. It doesn’t matter what it’s called. If it’s good, it’s good.”
This year, Usonia is going all-in. They’ve planted hybrids like Noiret and Marquette right alongside vinifera; a move that’s either bold or batshit, depending on who you ask. But Julia and Alex aren’t asking for permission.
Organic is the priority, biodynamic is the goal. Realistically, this means fostering grapes that don’t necessarily have a legacy or fit neatly into the narrative. So instead, they’re embracing varietals that survive and thrive in this climate, blending them creatively and bottling some seriously delicious wine. Prioritizing that just might reshape what defines Finger Lakes viticulture. usoniawine.com
THE ELECTRIC STORM
BEN RICARDI | OSMOTE, SENECA LAKE
Sitting down with Ben Ricardi is like sitting in the eye of a storm. His pull is like a gravitational force. He’s ‘the guy,’ but he’s completely unaware. He’s too busy; too deep in the work. As he almost collapses into a folding chair and takes gulps of water out of stemware, it seems maybe this is the first time he’s taken a seat since July.
Ricardi studied vineyard management at Cornell University, then proceeded to crack the world
wide open, harvest hopping from Chile and New Zealand to France, Australia and California. He made stops at Craggy Range and Williams Selyem before finally landing at City Winery; each stop pivotal in shaping his winemaking style. Ricardi finally boomeranged back home to the Finger Lakes and founded the Osmote label in 2016, seeing the potential for entrepreneurship and attracted to the grassroots nature of the region.
Out of the gate, he started cranking out some of the most beautiful Chardonnay the region has ever produced. This past summer, Ricardi planted his first vines — all hybrids. “I mean, honestly, it’s the future of wine,” he said.
Osmote is building something bigger, something wilder. Ricardi is singlehandedly running a winery, yes, but he’s also running pigs through his land. “I’m a big fan of high-quality pork,” he said with a grin. “One day, I get this call from this guy, Tank Jackson, who raises pigs for Sean Brock and Tom Colicchio. He’s like, ‘Hey, I heard you’re raising pigs. You’ve gotta come to Charleston and get some of mine.’”
Ricardi went to Tank’s farm — Valhalla — and came back with gorgeous Iberico-Duroc piglets, transplanting them into an abandoned vineyard to see how they’d forage. Take a closer look, and it becomes obvious that Ricardi is circling in on biodynamics in the Finger Lakes.
“Undoubtedly, hybrids are
going to be varieties I can grow more easily with fewer sprays,” he said. “And while I’m taking this sincere interest in pigs, if I can maintain vineyards with far fewer sprays and much less chemical input, it could very well create a mixed system in the future where the pigs are in the vineyard.”
By mixing wine, food and agro-tourism, Ricardi’s turning his land into a space where people can come and get lost in the experience. “Wine, pork, venue— it’s the whole package,” he says, laughing like it’s some crazy idea. Ricardi is a live wire. Deep in the trenches, hands stained from grape skins, brain running miles ahead — yet somehow, making it all work. He might be blithely unaware of the storm he’s stirring up, but make no mistake: Ricardi isn’t just shaping the future of the Finger Lakes. He’s tearing up the playbook and writing his own. It’s his world, we’re just living in it. osmotewine.com
ROOTS IN EARTH, EYES ON THE FUTURE
NATHAN KENDALL | NATHAN K. WINES, SENECA LAKE
Nathan Kendall is the kind of winemaker who isn’t quick to boast. Instead, he speaks with gratitude for the region he calls home. There’s a deliberate stillness in how he takes stock of the land, the sky, the rhythm of it all. But don’t mistake that calm for complacency — Kendall is hungry, and his wines speak for themselves.
Kendall grew up with dirt under his nails, tying vines on a neighbor’s farm before he was old enough to have a say. After college he bolted, doubling down on harvests across the globe. Circling back in 2011, he wasn’t interested in what everyone else was doing.
“People were trying to make these big, structured reds,” Kendall said, “but they didn’t fit here.” Instead of setting his sights
Left, Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez of Usonia. Right, Ben Ricardi of Osmote. PHOTOS BY ABBY QUATRO
on a knockoff Napa, he started making lighter, more honest wines: barrel-aged whites and whole-cluster reds that had texture and nuance; wines that reflected the land’s potential. In 2016, he launched his first label, Chepika, and began experimenting with grapes most people wouldn’t touch.
“If you’d told me 10 years ago I’d be making dry Concord wine, I’d have laughed,” he said. “Nobody wants to drink that shit, but here we are.”
And people are drinking it. Chepika’s wines have become a quiet phenomenon — organic, lower alcohol and crafted with respect for the region. Kendall’s current collaboration work with master sommelier and wine wizard of the Loire, Pascaline Lepeltier, is proof enough. Together, they make three wines produced without additives to showcase Finger Lakes terroir in its truest form.
Kendall is the kind of winemaker who’s not afraid to let the land lead him. He’s betting on hybrids, not because they’re trendy, but because they make sense for sustainability.
“You can farm them more responsibly, with fewer sprays,” he said. “Why wouldn’t we want that?”
Kendall doesn’t see it as a compromise, he sees it as progress.
“What works today might not work tomorrow,” he said. His trust in the land and the unknown is what makes Kendall quietly — yet unmistakably — remarkable. nkendallwines.com
REDEFINING A REGION
KELBY JAMES RUSSELL & JULIA HOYLE | APOLLO’S PRAISE, SENECA LAKE
A conversation with Kelby James Russell and Julia Hoyle feels a bit like they’ve been stopped midsprint. There’s no denying the brilliance of this pair, and they’re running at a pace that feels both deliberate and urgent. They’re not just winemakers — they’re catalysts, driving the Finger Lakes forward and rewriting the story of
Nathan Kendall.
PHOTO BY ABBY QUATRO
what the region can be.
The story of Apollo’s Praise kicked off in 2023 when they closed on Lahoma Vineyard in Rock Stream, just off the western shore of Seneca Lake. The ink was barely dry on the deal when the worst spring frost in 50 years wiped out half their crop. Most people would buckle, but not these two.
“We did some quick math,” Russell said, “and realized we had to start sooner than expected. No customers, no distribution — just survival.”
They’re not complaining. If anything, there’s a sense they live for the challenge.
“The universe was telling us to run faster,” Hoyle said.
Lahoma’s sandstone-rich soil was the match they had been waiting for.
“That site — it’s not just capable of producing the crisp Finger Lakes Riesling people expect,” said Russell. “The fruit lends itself to opulence, to more textured, layered wines.”
Beyond Riesling, their age-worthy
Cabernet Franc Rosé has the kind of depth that makes imbibers rethink what a pink drink can be. They’re not trying to fit a mold. Instead, they’re chasing dimension, and bottling vibrancy. What’s most striking about the pair isn’t their adaptability, but their vision. It’s not enough to make killer wine; they want the world to take notice. Enter FLXcursion, the riotous, biannual Riesling conference and brainchild of Russell and Oscar Bynke of Hermann J. Wiemer.
Designed to bring the world’s top winemakers to their backyard,the festival is really about proving that Finger Lakes wines deserve a place in the global conversation.
Together, Russell and Hoyle are building a future for Finger Lakes wine that’s bold, inclusive and impossible to ignore.
“It’s about elevating the region, pushing it forward,” Hoyle said.
Not only are they making serious wine, they’re making sure the world knows the Finger Lakes isn’t playing catch-up anymore. apollospraise.com
Julia Hoyle & Kelby James Russell of Appolo's Praise.
PHOTO BY ABBY QUATRO
Garden variety
BY PATRICK HOSKEN PATRICK@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
If the burger is a portrait of America, as “The New York Times” recently proclaimed, the veggie burger is a smeared still life. It can be anything: a light and colorful garden, densely packed with grains and legumes or even rich and paradoxically meaty. You know a winner when you taste it.
But real plant-based heads understand that a good veggie burger is much more than just a mouthful of roughage. The absence of beef provides a blank canvas onto which chefs can create unexpected triumphs using beets, chickpeas and even meatless meat sauces.
In 2023, food educators at Virginia Tech pointed out that one-quarter of Americans had reported reducing their red meat intake between 2020 and 2022. Restaurants around Rochester offer plenty of options to cater to this growing population of eaters (this writer included). Our mission is clear: Seek out interesting takes on what was once considered an afterthought on the menu.
Veggie burgers are powerful. They’re mysterious. Now, in an age of culinary innovation brought on by a widening contingent of plant-based eaters, they’re what’s for dinner.
This list doesn’t include any dishes made with Impossible or Beyond Meat patties as they’re designed as meat substitutes and available at the supermarket. Instead, our veggie burger tour focuses on novel, veg-only takes on America’s sandwich. Here’s where to start experimenting.
A veggie burger tour of Rochester reveals unique approaches to the meatless mainstay.
2015, boasts patties of deep red hues thickened up with black beans, brown rice and golden raisins. “For years, people were fucking baffled,” said chef Brian Van Etten. “‘Why are there raisins in my veggie burger?’ We do it to really emphasize the sweetness (of the beets).”
Van Etten came up playing in punk bands, and, typical of the vegetarian scene, survived on cheap, frozen Boca Burgers as a touring musician. He kept that foundation in mind when designing Swillburger’s menu, though he aimed to elevate it with a whole vegetable.
“You know what’s in there, and you can see it,” Van Etten said. “It’s a pretty veggie burger.”
Chefs prepare the beets in a giant rice cooker then dry it out, in Van Etten’s words, “so it’s not just mush.” Swillburger makes about 50 pounds of veggie patties per week, ultimately served on soft, springy potato rolls.
As a general rule, always order house-made sauces, but this goes double at Swillburger. The eatery’s Swillsauce — “a top-secret mayo-based sauce with ketchup, mustard, pickles and spices,” per the menu — elevates each bite.
A PLAN WITH LEG(UME)S
It’s a different story about a mile north at Van Etten’s other venture with co-owner Jeff Ching, Owl House, on Marshall Street. The not-so-secret ingredient is chickpea, yielding a more fritterlike patty served on a toasted bun from Baker Street Bakery. The BVE chickpea burger, with its srirachastrawberry jam and crispy onions, is a showstopper.
Swillburger began serving beet-based veggie burgers in 2015, with patties thickened up by black beans, brown rice and golden raisins. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH
Bill Gray’s serves its black bean burger on a Di Paolo roll. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH
Van Etten said that idea for a chickpea burger came from founding partner Andrea Parros — who subsequently opened Red Fern in 2013. With an entirely vegan menu boasting faux-steak bombers and the beloved Compost Plate, burgers are actually some of the least exciting of Red Fern’s offerings (though no less delicious). The spot’s formidable lentil burger comes dressed with roasted tomatoes, field greens and lemon mayo.
“We’ve had people in here — they’ll almost drop their fork and be like ‘Oh my god, this is vegan?’” Parros told CITY in 2023.
The lentil burger’s standout attribute may just be the bread, a heavenly focaccia that gives each sandwich the culinary equivalent of a Tempur-Pedic mattress.
MEAT SAUCE, HOLD THE MEAT
DogTown, too, understands the value of balancing the patty with a lighter carb. Its pressed veggie burger bursts with garden color from carrots and edamame, but the airy French bread sends it skyward. Complete with lettuce and tomatoes, DogTown’s offering feels very much like a salad, dressed with just the right amount of mayonnaise.
Or get a Split Veggie Plate — one patty and one veggie dog over a bed of home fries — to introduce some starch into your garden. DogTown’s Three Bean Veggie Chili even acts as its own meat sauce, minus the meat.
It’s an approach GateHouse knows well. Each burger at the Village Gate staple gets its name from a famous Rochesterian; the veggie — honorably called The B. Anthony on the menu — arrives coated in its own meatless hot sauce that likewise hews closer to a
peppery chili.
The flavors complement the minor heat from pickled jalapeños, balanced out by avocado and hummus. The patty itself can be substituted into any other burger on the menu for a veg spin on, say, the cozy Wambach (brie, apples, maple honey and pesto) or the pinkyup Golisano (gruyere, mushrooms and truffle black pepper aioli).
FAST AND CASUAL
The cravings won’t always wait. Sometimes crinkle-cut fries and a chocolate milkshake beckon alongside the quick sandwich itself. In these scenarios, take solace in the knowledge that Bill Gray’s and Tom Wahl’s both sell veggie burgers; the former boasts a black-bean patty as well. In fact, there’s an entire tier of black bean-based veggie burgers that we simply don’t have room to highlight. (Next time.)
Is Shake Shack’s melted cheesefilled fried portobello sandwich technically a veggie burger? Sure! Its more conventional veggie patty — made from mushrooms, sweet potatoes, carrots, farro and quinoa — is also available and quite colorful, loaded with crispy onions on top.
No matter which burger you seek, an important factor to keep in mind is simple eatability. The so-called threefinger rule dictates that the mouth can only be opened so wide for a bite of food. How wide, exactly? The width of the pointer, middle and ring fingers stacked vertically.
In other words, stunt burgers the size of pumpkins are only made to be shared on social media, not enjoyed over a meal. Burgers, veggie or otherwise, really are like portraits. They look better in person than on a screen.
DogTown’s veggie burger, loaded with edamame and carrots, arrives on airy French bread.
PHOTO BY PATRICK HOSKEN
todo DAILY
Full calendar of events online at roccitymag.com
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4
COOKING
Cooking With Squash & Root Vegetables
Parma Public Library, calendar. libraryweb.org
This is the year to turn up your turnips and make your least exciting Thanksgiving side dishes into the talk of the dinner table. Registered dietitian Rebekah Harter is back and ready to put the “rad” back in radishes with recipe instruction, a tasting and info on nutritional benefits. Registration required. VERONICA VOLK
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5
POLITICS
Divas of Democracy: Election Night 2024 Watch Party
ROC Cinema, dragmetothestage.com
Watching election returns was never necessarily fun, but it never used to induce so much panic, either. That’s where queens Aggy Dune and Darienne Lake enter the picture. On Election Night, the drag stars set up shop at ROC Cinema for an evening of live commentary, lip-sync performances and a handful of games as the results roll in. Give your nerves a break. The 16+ fun runs from 7-11 p.m. Tickets $23.18, with fees.
PATRICK HOSKEN
FITNESS
Ladies Climbing Night
Central Rock Gym, centralrockgym. com/rochester
Every Tuesday from 7-8 p.m., Central Rock Gym welcomes female-identifying climbers of all
skill levels for a meet-up. The event starts with warm-ups (both bodily and conversational) before moving on to bouldering, top-roping or lead climbing. $18 (rentals included). Free for members. PH
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 6
ART/MUSIC
“Rocking Horse: The Songs of Craig Matis”
Mercer Art Gallery (MCC), sites. monroecc.edu/mercer
Artist Craig Matis creates both visual works and songs, and the “Rocking Horse” exhibition combines both in a multidisciplinary swirl. For many years, he sang and played guitar in the Cleveland-area band Uzizi; his folk-influenced songs pair with his colorful artwork on display and can be accessed through a QR code in the gallery. Matis’s palette veers into cartoonish Art Deco majesty, making his subject matter (militarism, aging and the passing of time, memory) come alive. The exhibition closes on Nov. 10, but luckily MCC’s Mercer Gallery is open 11 a.m.-7 p.m. on weekdays (and until 2 p.m. on Fridays). PH
COMEDY ROC Cinema Open Mic
ROC Cinema, innerloopblog.com/ open-mic
Here’s something for those with masochistic tendencies — or those looking for a good laugh: open mic night! The Innerloop Blog hosts ROC Cinema Open Mic on each Wednesday night this month. Names will be drawn from a hat, and those selected will have four minutes at the microphone. Signup starts at 8:30 p.m. with comics taking the stage at 8:45 p.m. Nov. 6, 13, 20 and 27. The audience will pick their favorite for the night, and winners will be invited to The Innerloop Blog’s Comedy Showcase, with a chance to do a paid gig. Tomatoes confiscated at the door. ALEX CRICHTON
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 7
FOOD
DIY Chocolates for the Holidays
ARTISANworks, artisanworks.net
I’ve seen approximately 700 episodes of “The Great British Bake Off” and I still don’t really understand what ganache is. Wikipedia’s help (“an emulsion between solid chocolate and a water-based ingredient”) is actually no help at all. Luckily, the folks at Laughing Gull Chocolates have dreamed up this workshop ahead of the holiday season that handily begins with a tasting, moves into the ganache realm and concludes with a trufflemaking session. Sweet deal. Tickets for the 6:30-8:30 p.m. workshop are $45. Doors open at 6. PH
PARTY
CITY Social: Food & Bev issue
Lila's in the Lobby, lilasinthelobby.com
Join the CITY crew at Lila's, a local restaurant in the lobby of Hampton Inn & Suites Rochester Downtown on Thursday, Nov. 7 from 6-8 p.m. Meet the team, pitch a story and toast our November 'Food and Bev' issue. Free; all ages welcome.
LEAH STACY
Fivebyfive “Eclipse” Album Release
fivebyfivemusic.com
If you’ve been looking for a way to recapture the experience of April’s total solar eclipse, local chamber ensemble fivebyfive hopes to transport you back to those moments with its new album, “Eclipse.” Launching on Nov. 8 – exactly seven months after the celestial event – the album includes four pieces: “In the Path of Totality;” “Eclipse;” “Under the Shadow;” and “Totality.” If you’re new to fivebyfive’s music, WXXI’s former arts and life editor Jeff Spevak described it best: “Classical turned loose in a toy store.” Digital download and physical copies available. $9-$20. MEGAN MACK
THEATER
“Baby”
The Theater at Innovation Square, rochestercommunityplayers.org
Director Michael C. Krickmire first helmed the Rochester Community Players’ production of the musical “Baby” in 1994. He returns for this new updated staging, the final show of the RCP’s 99th season. Its story concerns three couples at very different stages — college-aged, midlife and empty nesters — as they navigate impending parenthood and the challenges associated. The show runs for four performances Nov. 7-9 at The Theater at Innovation Square, 6 miles from where RCP originally staged it at the Orcutt/Botsford Fine Arts Center on East Avenue. Tickets $26.03- $36.32. PH
PREMIERES MON NOV 18 8PM ON
Holiday Traditions
We asked some WXXI staffers from various departments within the organization to share their favorite holiday traditions. Here’s what they had to say.
The Route Music Director and Host
My favorite Holiday Tradition is on Christmas, we always do stockings for every member of the family, and that includes the dogs! There are almost more dogs than people at holiday gatherings at my house, so we usually let the dogs open their stockings first. It’s so much fun to watch them rip open the wrapping paper, and it is absolute chaos.
The Johnson family Thanksgiving gathering can often include almost thirty people, and when all of us nerds get together, the annual Trivial Pursuit game can get pretty intense!
3. Lisa Medina Development Coordinator
One of my favorite Thanksgiving traditions, is to have my family prep all the foods the night before. Everyone gets assigned a task – peeling, shredding, mixing, blending, seasoning, etc. All the while, there’s holiday music playing in the background, drinks & snacks all around and a good time is had. On Thanksgiving Day, I pop everything in the oven and we spend the day eating, laughing, and playing games.
4. Beth Adams Morning Edition Host Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday because it’s all about family getting together without the commercialization or pressures of gift giving. My husband Scott and I have dinner with my side of the family on Thanksgiving Day and with my step kids and grandkids the following day. My annual assignment is a huge batch of stuffing. I come from a large family, so I have to make enough for around 25 people. Several years ago, when I was quarantined with chicken pox, I had to divulge the sacred recipe to my sister!!
7. Megan Mack Executive Producer, “Connections” and Live/Televised Engagement
Programming
My grandfather was a Navy cook famous for his “dressing.” It’s basically stuffing with more onions than anyone should be able to consume. Mack Thanksgiving is Grandpa’s dressing and Tums!
5. Angelica Roman Ready to Learn Family Engagement Specialist
My favorite and most precious tradition has been getting together with my now deceased grandmother, mom, daughters, and extended family members the weekend before to make a traditional delicacy from Puerto Rico named “Pasteles”. An intricate process of preparing these treats and the labor of love that goes into making them together is the tradition that has been passed down by each generation.
When I was a kid, Christmas Eve was a time when our whole family would gather for a big Italian feast at my Grandparent’s home. After dinner, my grandmother, Maria, would sneak off to fetch her ukelele to sing her favorite songs, usually half in English and half in Italian.
My favorite holiday tradition is cooking Thanksgiving dinner for family and friends. As a pescatarian, I include a second main dish for non-meat eaters. I love watching the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade while cooking, and I hope to attend the parade in person someday it’s on my bucket list!
Since my youngest daughter was five (she’s 20 now), she and my husband have set up a holiday village the day after Thanksgiving in our dining room. It’s filled with Victorian homes and store fronts, a skating rink, and holiday lights.
6. Kevin Indovino Producer, Director, Editor
1. Hannah Maier
2. Steve Johnson WXXI Classical Host
9. Kristin Tutino Communications Manager
8. Vanessa Miller-Floyd HR Coordinator
ON WXXI TV THIS MONTH
Nature
“Attenborough’s Life Journey”
Wednesday, November 20 at 8 p.m. on WXXI-TV
As Sir David Attenborough enters his 98th year, this unique and charming film documents the highlights of his incredible life, from his boyhood days as a fossil hunter, through his early days as a BBC host, to his revered status as the foremost natural history presenter.
Co-anchored by Amna Nawaz and Geoff Bennett, coverage of the 2024 presidential and congressional elections will include reporting from the PBS News Hour team, analysis from guests, and results for the presidential, vice presidential, House of Representatives and Senate elections.
Photo: Geoff Bennett and Amna Nawaz - PBS NewsHour/Credit: PBS
Great Performances “Patsy Cline: Walkin’ After Midnight”
Friday, November 22 at 9 p.m. on WXXI-TV
Patsy Cline’s music transcended generations, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural landscape of American music. With her unmistakable voice and heartfelt delivery, she became a trailblazer in country music and beyond, paving the way for countless artists who followed in her footsteps. Filmed at the renown Ryman Auditorium in Nashville, this tribute concert features Beverly D’Angelo, Grace Potter, Crystal Gayle, Kellie Pickler, Kristin Chenoweth, Mickey Guyton, Rita Wilson, Pam Tillis, Pat Benatar & Neil Giraldo, Wynonna, and many more.
Photo: Reyna Roberts/Credit: TH Entertainment, LLC
NOVA
“Building Stuff: Boost It”
Tuesday, November 19 at 7 p.m. on
WXXI-WORLD
Around the world, engineers are finding ingenious ways to amplify our abilities and senses – allowing us to access and shape the world way beyond our natural abilities. From helping a blind man see without the use of his eyes to building a sling so powerful it can shoot rockets into space, see why engineering just might be the closest thing to a superpower we humans have. Presented as part of Move to IncludeTM, a WXXI and Golisano Foundation initiative designed to promote inclusion.
Credit: WGBH Educational Foundation
Carl the Collector joins the PBS KIDS Family
This new animated series for children ages 4-8, premiering Thursday, November 14 at 8:30 a.m. on WXXI-TV, follows the everyday adventures of Carl, a warm-hearted autistic raccoon who loves collecting things. His talents – a laser-focus pursuit of his goals, attention to detail, and a distinctive way of looking at and experiencing the world around him – have helped him amass a collection for just about every occasion and come in handy for solving problems around the neighborhood with his friends. Carl has a lot of energy and is logical and precise, yet he often struggles with anxiety in new situations and has difficulty when things don’t go according to plan. Like all of his friends, he is learning that there is no right or wrong way to be himself.
11/14:
at 8:30 a.m. on WXXI-TV
Daily at 11 a.m. on WXXI-KIDS • Anytime on the PBS KIDS app
News Hour/Mike Morgan Credit: Copyright Fuzzytown Productions, LLC
Valentin Silvestrov: A Composer’s Journey
Monday, November 18 through Friday, November 22 at 3 p.m. on WXXI Classical
In 2022, at age 84, Valentin Silvestrov, one of Ukraine’s most honored and revered composers, had to leave his beloved Kiev. Now living as a refugee in Berlin, he continues to write music. Join host Natalya Pasichnyk as she presents an overview of Silvestrov’s compositional career from his first works to some of his most recent.
David Hochstein 2024 Recital Competition Winners
Wednesday, November 27 at 12:10 p.m. on WXXI Classical
Since 1991, The Hochstein School has commemorated the life of David Hochstein with a yearly competition for local upperlevel high school students. The 2024 David Hochstein Recital Competition winners – Gabriel Kulick, percussion; Rebecca Lee, violin; and Milo Anderson, piano performed a free concert at The Hochstein School last March and WXXI Classical was there to record it.
Credit: Provided by The Hochstein School
America Are We Ready: The Night After Election Night
Wednesday, November 6 at 8 p.m. on WXXI News
Join WNYC’s Brian Lehrer with professor and political analyst Christina Greer for a night after Election Night special. We’ll hear where the vote count stands and what’s at stake at that point.
Mountain Stage
Sundays from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. on The Route
Recorded in front of a live audience and hosted by Grammy winner Kathy Mattea, Mountain Stage features performances from seasoned legends and emerging stars in genres ranging from folk, blues, and country to indie rock, synth pop, world music, alternative, and beyond.
Photo: Kathy Mattea/Credit: Reto Sterchi
EXCITING NEWS: The Eastman School of Music and The Route are bringing “Mountain Stage” to Rochester on March 21, 2025. Stay tuned for more information in the coming months!
Turkey Day Specials
The Splendid Table’s Turkey Confidential
Thursday, November 28 at 12 p.m. on WXXI News
The Splendid Table host Francis Lam comes to the rescue of Thanksgiving cooks, kitchen helpers, and dinner guests during the biggest cooking day of the year. He’s joined by Paola Velez, author of the forthcoming “Bodega Bakes: Recipes for Sweets and Treats Inspired by My Corner Store”; Joe Yonan, author of “Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking”; Texan chef of Roots Chicken Shack in Dallas, Tiffany Derry; and James Beard award-winning author and cooking teacher, Andrea Nguyen.
1 2 3 4
Every Good Thing
Thursday, November 28 at 9 a.m. on WXXI Classical
Andrea Blain hosts a visit with classical music fans around the country as they give thanks and celebrate one of life’s most meaningful gifts: an hour of stories and music to celebrate Thanksgiving.
This Land: Thanksgiving with The American Sound
Thursday, November 28 at 3 p.m. on WXXI Classical
Join host Jennifer Hambrick for a musical celebration of the diversity of this land. We’ll hear music by William Grant Still, Michael Torke, Barbara Harbach, Jerod Impichchaachaaha’ Tate, and more.
Songs of Thanks
Thursday, November 28 at 6 p.m. on WXXI Classical
The acclaimed octet Cantus weaves together stories and songs celebrating gratitude and community.
NEW MOVIES
ANORA
(opens Nov. 8, with 35mm film screenings beginning Nov. 15)
A REAL PAIN
(opens Nov. 15)
Mismatched cousins David (Jesse Eisenberg) and Benji (Kieran Culkin) reunite for a tour through Poland to honor their beloved grandmother.
Anora (Mikey Madison), a sex worker from Brooklyn, gets her chance at a Cinderella story when she meets and marries the son of an oligarch. Director Sean Baker’s latest comedy/drama is getting plenty of early awards season buzz. 240 East Ave
MEMOIR OF A SNAIL
(opens November TBA)
After a series of misfortunes, a snailcollecting, melancholic misfit learns how to find confidence within herself amid the clutter of everyday life in this animated drama.
LATE SPRING (1949)
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24 AT 7PM 95 YEARS OF THE LITTLE FILM SERIES TICKETS AT THELITTLE.ORG
Yasujirō Ozu’s 1949 family drama from Japan, involving a father’s desire to marry off his 27-year-old daughter.
WICKED
(opens Nov. 21)
Misunderstood because of her green skin, a young woman named Elphaba forges an unlikely but profound friendship with Glinda, a student with an unflinching desire for popularity. Based on the popular musical of the same name.
MY NAME IS ALFRED HITCHCOCK
(opens Nov. 22)
Re-examine the vast filmography and legacy of one of the 20th century’s greatest filmmakers, Alfred Hitchcock, through a new lens: through the auteur’s own voice.
LIZZIE BORDEN DOUBLE FEATURE: “REGROUPING” AND “BORN IN FLAMES”
SCREENING & FILMMAKER Q&A | WEDNESDAY, NOV. 20 AT 5:30PM
The Little Theatre is honored to collaborate with On Film to co-host a doublefeature of Lizzie Borden’s Regrouping (1976) and Born in Flames (1983). Lizzie Borden is an American filmmaker whose feminist perspective informs her eclectic style and subjects, which largely defy mainstream cinema. Join us for a discussion with Lizzie Borden herself, live and in-person, following the screenings.
LUTHER: NEVER TOO MUCH
ONE TAKE DOCUMENTARY SERIES + BLACK CINEMA SERIES THURSDAY, NOV. 21 AT 7PM AND SATURDAY, NOV. 23 AT 12PM TICKETS AT THELITTLE.ORG
The documentary, from director Dawn Porter, chronicles the story of a vocal virtuoso, Luther Vandross. Using a wealth of rarely seen archives, Luther tells his own story with assistance from his closest friends and musical collaborators including Mariah Carey, Dionne Warwick, Valerie Simpson and Roberta Flack.
THEATER
“The Post Mortem Show”
Roc City Circus, roccitycircus.com
An immersive performance gets the terrifying touch of Dr. Death at Roc City Circus, complete with a host of games and concessions at the aptly named CarnEvil. Fear seekers beware: The event is rated PG-13 and requires anyone under 16 to be accompanied by an adult. The show runs Nov. 8-9 with general admission and VIP tickets at $25 and $40, respectively.
ROBERTO LAGARES
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 9
THEATER
“The Summer Land”
Temple Theater, thecompanytheatreroc.org
When Maggie and Kate Fox began apparently communicating with spirits in their childhood home outside Rochester, it wasn’t long before their older sister, Leah, brought them into the city and put them in front of an audience. Soon enough, the Spiritualist movement was in full bloom, with local progressive leaders like Isaac and Amy Post wrapped up in the cause. Thus playwright Kate Royal centers her new play, “The Summer Land,” which finds 1848 Rochester being, as she told CITY, “the epicenter of progress and the American imagination of what this society can be.” Following its world premiere Nov. 8, the show runs until Nov. 17 with several ASL-interpreted performances. Tickets $25-$28. PH
FASHION/HISTORY
Fall Fashion & Textile Symposium
Genesee Country Village & Museum, gcv.org/event/fall-fashion-textilesymposium
Questions of style, much like outfits themselves, run the entire length of the body. Fittingly, the GCV&M’s annual symposium is themed around “Fashion from Head to Toe” and features guest speakers whose expertise runs the gamut from straw millinery and textile history to the concept of fashion as an expression of gender identity. The program runs 9:30 a.m.4 p.m. and can be attended virtually, with a peek into the museum’s gallery textile vaults at the conclusion of the seminar. $70-$85 for in-person tickets; $35-$40 for virtual. PH
BOOKS
Christine Green, “Sweet Tooth”
Writers & Books, wab.org
Local author Christine Green’s memoir will teach you everything from how to comb your hair to why Jell-O can be a symbol of grief. Green describes her collection of essays and poetry as about life as an anxietyridden girl in 1970s California who grew up to be an anxiety-ridden writer in Western New York. The first print of the book sold out, but additional copies will be available in late October. 3-4 p.m. Tickets: $0$20. MM
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 10
SPORTS
Ultimate Frisbee
Pickup Game
Cobbs Hill Park, rocultimate.org/pickup
The Greater Rochester Disc Association’s weekly pickup game returns with what the group calls the “spirit of the game” at the forefront. In other words, be inclusive, be aware of your own size and speed in relation to other players and always ask before doling out advice to your fellow players. The group meets at 11 a.m. in Cobbs Hill Park at the corner of Culver and Norris drives. Free. PH
FAMILY
“The Eric Carle Story Show”
Louis S. Wolk JCC of Greater Rochester, jccrochester.org/arts-culture/tykes I have read “The Very Hungry Caterpillar” to my daughter approximately 50 times in her short life; because of its iconic collage artwork courtesy of visionary children’s author Eric Carle, I look forward to the next 50. This show in the JCC’s “TYKE” program (Theater Young Kids Enjoy) features three other Carle tales as well: “From Head to Toe,” “The Very Quiet Cricket” and “Little Cloud.” The fun starts at 11 a.m., so schedule naptime accordingly. Tickets $20-$22. Chocolate cake, ice-cream cones, pickles, Swiss cheese slices, et al. not provided. PH
Haudenosaunee
Heritage Celebration Day
Memorial Art Gallery, mag.rochester. edu/events
The Allegany River Indian Dancers first performed in 1979. Since then, the group has made its way throughout North America showcasing its repertoire of historical movements, including the hoop dance performed by its leader, Bill Crouse. The crew comes to the MAG as part of this diverse Haudenosaunee celebration. A full day of storytelling, dances, music and demonstrations runs from 12-4 p.m. throughout the museum. Free admission. PH
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 11
FITNESS
Stars & Stripes VeteRun 5K benefits Honor Flight
Mendon Ponds Park, yellowjacketracing.com
From the folks who brought you the Flower City Challenge & Wegmans Family 5K, the Stars & Stripes VeteRun allows you to show your support this Veterans Day. This race includes an in-person 5K event at Mendon Ponds Park as well as a virtual running challenge throughout the weekend. A portion of the proceeds will go to Honor Flight Rochester, a not-for-profit that flies veterans to Washington, D.C. to see memorials in their honor. VV
The Polish Film Festival, organized by the Skalny Center for Polish and Central European Studies at the University of Rochester, is presented via a bifurcated schedule. Its first programs screened in October; the second batch kicks off with director Pawel Maślona’s “Scarborn,” an 18th-century historical telling of Polish warrior Tadeusz Kościuszko. Showtime’s at 7 p.m. Tickets $5-$12. The rest of the films run Nov. 13-17 at The Little, with tickets $12 for adults and $7 for students. PH
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 13
FUNDRAISER Celebration of Giving
Rochester Riverside Convention Center, racf.org
‘Tis the season for giving, and the Rochester Area Community Foundation is calling on philanthropists and others to join them for this fundraising event. The evening will include dinner, inspiring stories, live entertainment and more. The foundation says this event blends the inspiration of its Philanthropy
CULTURE
Awards with the festive atmosphere of its Holiday Open House. Proceeds from the evening go to enhance grantmaking in eight counties served by the foundation. Tickets start at $225 per seat. The event runs from 6-9 p.m. downtown. AC
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 14
ART
“White Corn, River Water and Patience: Forging New Photo-chemical Relationships”
Visual Studies Workshop, vsw.org
“With my photography, I want to step away from the photo-saturated society we now live in,” visual artist Alice Cazenave once said. “The magic has been lost. No one makes anything by hand anymore.” So, Cazenave does. A famous portrait of hers was printed on a leaf using photosynthesis. She has taken this approach further via her work with the Sustainable Darkroom, which aims to create photo-processing chemicals using plant-based materials. Cazenave has spent the past year in Rochester researching to this end; she presents her findings at 7 p.m. via VSW’s Twitch stream. PH
GAMING
Gaming for All: A Women in Games Celebration
Strong National Museum of Play, museumofplay.org
This joint event between the Strong Museum and RIT celebrates the marginalized voices who have contributed to make gaming what it is, especially women, the BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ communities and people with a disability. Local game makers from ROC Game Dev will demo their creations, and the museum’s new Women in Games exhibit will be spotlighted. A presentation and panel discussion begins at 6:30 p.m. at the museum’s Paychex Theater. Tickets $20. PH
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 15
DANCE
Cartoon Rave
Essex, essexroc.com
With “Let’s be kids again” in prominent letters on the show poster, the Cartoon Rave promises one thing above all else: nostalgia. That it falls two weeks after Halloween won’t stop organizers from throwing a costume-centric bash that centers cosplay, cartoons on a big screen and, naturally, enough EDM pumping through the speakers to keep the energy level high. Prizes promised at this 18+ event, which kicks off at 9 p.m. General admission tickets $20.87. PH
COMEDY
Sebastian Maniscalco
Blue Cross Arena, bluecrossarena.com
With a name and demeanor like his, Sebastian Maniscalco was born for roles in “Green Book” and Martin Scorsese’s “The Irishman,” which he landed in 2018 and 2019, respectively. He also got Robert De Niro to play his father in a film he co-wrote and stars in the Max series “Bookie.” Oh, and he sells out arenas with his standup comedy. One of them is Blue Cross Arena, where he performs at 7 p.m. Tickets $61 and up. PH
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 16
BOOKS
“The
Hidden Roots of White Supremacy”
Book Talk
Third Presbyterian Church, thirdpresbyterian.org
Where does the history of American injustice begin? For writer and religious scholar Robert P. Jones, white supremacy predates even the arrival of African slaves to the North American continent. As he articulates in his 2023 book “The Hidden Roots of White Supremacy,” America cannot move forward with healing if it remains grounded in the falsehoods of its past. An open discussion based around Jones’s book takes place at 10 a.m. in the church’s Johnston Hall. PH
MUSIC
Morrissey
Kodak Center, kodakcenter.com
The legacy of The Smiths is simply this: They’re one of the greatest bands of all time, led by a mercurial frontman who’s charismatic at best and capricious at worst. Since splitting in 1987, Steven Patrick Morrissey has also become increasingly xenophobic, even as his solo output can still access the pain of human existence in a unique, biting manner that remains endearing. (“Everyday is Like Sunday”? Sometimes it really is like that, man.) The challenge for many contemporary Smiths fans is separating the art from the artist’s disreputable personal views. If you dare to try, he’ll be onstage at 8 p.m. Remaining tickets begin at $174.80.
MUSIC
The Crystal Method & Rabbit in the Moon
Photo City Music Hall, photocitymusichall.com
In the early 1990s, Ken Jordan and Scott Kirkland formed The Crystal Method in Las Vegas and began churning out glitchy big beat tunes like “Busy Child.” Thanks to electronic music’s creep into the mainstream by the end of the decade, songs like these (and others by Fatboy Slim and The Prodigy) got alt-radio airplay, introducing niche dance genres to new fans. Jordan and Kirkland eventually leaned in, collaborating with rock heroes like Tom Morello and Scott Weiland, before Jordan left the group in 2017. Kirkland soldiers on solo; this 18+ show finds him paired with the fellow electronic brains of Rabbit in the Moon. 8 p.m. show; $41 and up. PH
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 17
MUSIC
Spencer Radcliffe & Everything, Hello Shark, Attic Abasement, Kitchen and A Wonderful
Psychic Garden, psyg.org/events Ohio’s kitchen-sink indie band Spencer Radcliffe & Everything returns to town for this gig being billed as “a show that could only happen in Rochester in 2024 and will never happen again anywhere.” Hello Shark from Maine, meanwhile, bring delicate pop-rock. Attic Abasement, Kitchen and A Wonderful — a trio of ornate Rochester noisemakers — support the show. Doors 6:30 p.m., music 7. $15. PH
THEATER
“Peter and the Starcatcher”
Panara Theatre at RIT, rit.edu/ntid In this “Peter Pan” prequel, a boy boards a ship for an untold adventure that becomes more familiar as the journey rolls on. The staging is a collaboration between RIT’s School of Performing Arts and Performing Arts at the National Technical Institute for the Deaf (which celebrates its
50th anniversary this year), featuring hearing actors, hard-of-hearing actors and deaf actors. The show opens Nov. 15 and runs through Nov. 17. PH
FILM
“Life Is Beautiful”
Dryden Theatre, wpff.us
Palestinian director Mohamed Jabaly made the critically acclaimed film “Ambulance” in 2016, for which he traveled to Tromsø, Norway to screen it for a film festival. But after, he was denied an artist visa, and the borders back in Gaza closed. Marooned half a world away from his family amid turmoil, Jabaly documented his long journey home in “Life Is Beautiful,” which screens as part of the Witness Palestine Film Festival in its 13th year.
PH
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18
HISTORY
The History of Rochester: 19th Century
Warner Castle, rochesterbrainery.com
How much do you know about the place you call home? And what better way to learn about this fair Flour City than by exploring the lives of the Rochesterians who came before us?
Teacher Tyler Lucero will introduce you to the folks of Western New York from two centuries ago and tell us how they laid the foundation for life as we know it today. Tickets must be purchased in advance. VV
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 19
THEATER
“Mamma Mia!”
West Herr Auditorium Theatre, rbtl.org
Even with a reported 72.21 million units moved, it is possible that ABBA is still somehow underrated. The proof? Literally any of the Swedish group’s singles. For more, consult the musical “Mamma Mia!,” in which ABBA not only soundtracks a fictional story of family, confusion, love and identity but emotionally anchors the tale. “Mamma Mia!” may not work at all if the songs — “Dancing Queen,” “Take a Chance on Me,” “The Winner Takes It All,” etc. — weren’t so good. Luckily, this is ABBA we’re talking about. That was never going to be a problem. The show runs Nov. 19-24. Tickets $46-$130. PH
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 20
MUSIC Mikaela Davis
Center for the Arts of Homer, center4art.org
There is no shortage of venues around the region in which to see Mikaela Davis. But the 131-year-old converted church in the town center of Homer, N.Y. might be one of the most striking. With 400 seats and stainedglass windows, it’s the perfect room for a harp. Davis takes the stage for a solo and acoustic set without her usual backing band Southern Star. American primitive guitarist John Lee Shannon joins. Music’s at 8 p.m. Member tickets $17.51, seniors $25.75 and $28.33 general admission. Current and former military service members get in for free. PH
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21
MUSIC
Miss Emily + Jazz Generation
75 Stutson Street, 75stutson.com
Earlier this year, Canadian vocalist Miss Emily stopped by the Rochester International Jazz Festival’s outdoor stage on Gibbs Street for reverent renditions of tunes from Ray Charles and The Box Tops. She returns for this show with the genre-spanning talents of Jazz Generation, along with food by the local New Orleans culinary purveyors at Northern Nola. Doors at 7:30 p.m., music at 8. $23.18-$65.87. PH
“Working Girls”
Gowen Room, Wilson Commons, events.rochester.edu
Director Lizzie Borden examined the day-to-day realities of Manhattan prostitutes in her 1986 film “Working Girls.” That chronicling serves as a foundation for a new exhibition at the University of Rochester’s Hartnett Gallery called “Sex/Labor.” As such,
UR student group On Film will screen “Working Girls” at 5:30 p.m. ahead of the exhibit’s opening immediately after. Borden will join for a panel discussion also featuring photographer Barbarba Nitke and multimedia artist Antonia Crane. Both events are free.
PH
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22
MUSIC
Candlelight
Concerts: Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” and More
Temple Theater, candlelightexperience.com
Following success achieved in more than 150 cities worldwide, the touring Candlelight Concerts international series is bringing shows to Rochester beginning in November. The series, created by Fever, is aimed at democratizing access to classical music through an innovative format played by local musicians (in this case, through Listeso Music Group), in emblematic venues illuminated by thousands of candles. Two more
shows — a holiday special featuring “The Nutcracker” on Dec. 20 and a tribute to Coldplay on Jan. 24 — are planned. The event is open to ages eight and older; anyone under age 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Tickets start at $31. LS
THEATER “Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead”
Sloan Performing Arts Center, events. rochester.edu
Though it’s nearly 60 years old, Tom Stoppard’s landmark absurdist play is still much more recent than the Shakespeare work it uses as source material. That said, “Hamlet” is just as resonant today as it was in 1600; “Rosencrantz and Guildenstern,” meanwhile, continues to entertain with its often-humorous queries about the meaning of life and the nature of fate. This production, put on by the University of Rochester’s International Theatre Program, runs for eight shows between Nov. 21 and Dec. 7. Performances are $20 and free for UR students. PH
MUSIC
Lindsay Stirling
Kodak Center, kodakcenter.com
Mention “the dubstep violinist” and there’s no confusion about who that could possibly be. Lindsay Stirling demonstrates such a mastery of her instrument that she has found a decade’s worth of success fusing classical and electronic elements in her music. When she comes to Kodak Center for an 8 p.m. show, she brings a celebration of her “Snow Waltz” album, a collection of holiday favorites presented in her mesmerizing and modern style. Tickets $65.50$115.50 plus fees. PH
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 23
FESTIVAL
Rochester Queer Arts Festival
ARTISANworks, dragmetothestage.com
The festival organizers say the event will feature local and national artists, vendors and performers “celebrating the beauty and power of queer creativity.” It’ll also feature a drag sale
“RuPaul’s Drag Race” stars and drag queens from across Western New York. The festival runs from 11 a.m.-6 p.m., admission is $5. JEREMY MOULE
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24
THEATER
“Othello”
MuCCC, muccc.org
Shakespeare’s tale of power, lies and betrayal gets new life courtesy of the Open Road Theatre. The production, directed by Karen Dieruf, runs just over two hours in an “easy-tounderstand” staging centered in its original 16th-century Venice setting. Thankfully, because of the Bard’s gifted pen and Shelly Jo Stam’s costumes, none of the overarching themes are lost. The show begins its run on Nov. 21 and wraps with a matinee on Nov. 24. Tickets online $17, or $20 at the door. PH
THEATER
Alan Cumming and Ari Shapiro: "Och & Oy! A Considered Cabaret"
The Theater at Innovation Square, theaterais.com
Alan Cumming ("Traitors," "Cabaret," "The Good Wife") and Ari Shapiro (NPR’s "All Things Considered," Pink Martini) both transport audiences to other worlds through their stories. Now, they’re joining forces in song. Witness a critically acclaimed evening of tunes and tall tales titled “Och &
Oy! A Considered Cabaret," with musical direction by Henry Koperski, at 7:30 p.m. on Sunday, Nov. 24 at the The Theater at Innovation Square. It's the perfect way to kick off the holiday week. Tickets start at $74.39.
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25
RECREATION
Classic Game Night
Martine, gamenightroc.com
Grab an Il Martine and the house special flatbread and settle in for a classic spin on game night every Monday at the cozy bar Martine, 647 South Ave. Follow Game Night Roc at instagram.com/game_night_roc for updates on Euchre tournaments and
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 26
SCIENCE
Searching for
Extraterrestrial Life With NASA
Webster Public Library, websterlibrary.org Are we alone in the universe? Retired NASA engineer Jim Porter leads a discussion about NASA’s work exploring that question. Porter has designed and built spacecraft and worked on projects like the James Webb Space Telescope. He’s one of more than 1,200 “Solar System Ambassadors” who help bring the science and excitement of NASA’s missions to local communities. The event is free, but registration is required. 6:30-7:30 p.m. MM CONTINUED
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 27
MUSIC
Thanksgiving Eve Emo Night
Featuring Cut Me Up Genny
Essex, essexroc.com
Historically, the night before Thanksgiving has long been a time to raise a glass and enjoy the company of friends. When this tradition collides with the relatively new ritual of “emo nights” – shouting along to the feelbad songs of millennials’ collective
youth – a new kind of potent rite is born. That’s what Essex has to offer with beloved emo cover band Cut Me Up Genny on Nov. 27. It’s easier to sing a sad song when you’re in the arms of a friend, after all. 8 p.m.
Tickets from $15.54. PH
BALLET
“The Nutcracker”
Kodak Hall at Eastman Theatre, rpo.org
It’s simply not the holidays without “The Nutcracker” at Kodak Hall.
Tchaikovsky’s well-loved musical tale once again comes alive as a collaboration between the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra, Rochester City Ballet and Bach Children’s Chorus of Rochester. The show runs for six performances Nov. 27 – Dec. 1. $21-$114. PH
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 28
RECREATION
South Wedge Waddle
Abundance Foods Co-op, wedgewaddle.com
This grassroots turkey trot is a 5K run, walk or waddle through the South Wedge. The event brings hundreds of residents to the parking lot of Abundance Food Co-op every Thanksgiving for a free run that follows the Genessee River before coming back along South Avenue. Community groups offer free snacks – donuts, cider, beer – along the course, and participants are asked to bring socks to donate to St. Joseph Neighborhood Center. Register online. DAVID STREEVER
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 29
MUSIC
Rhett Miller of Old 97’s With Nick Cory Young
Abilene Bar & Lounge, abilenebarandlounge.com
Before Christopher Nolan came along, “Oppenheimer” was just a killer alt-country tune. Rhett Miller penned and sang that one with his band Old 97’s at the end of the 1990s on an album moneyed with hooks and just the right amount of twang. The Dallas band boasts more than 20 releases since forming 32 years ago, spotlighting Miller’s penchant for gems. He’ll bring his ample songbook to the cozy Abilene with local devotee Nick Cory Young opening. Music’s at 8:30 p.m. $30 advance, $35 day of show. PH
MUSIC
Start Making Sense
Montage Music Hall, rocentevents.com
This seven-piece band, the preeminent
Talking Heads tribute act of the Northeast, gigs around Upstate New York regularly, and for good reason. Its disciplined, high-energy show channels the wiry majesty of David Byrne and co. circa 1984. But the performance itself transcends imitation, decidedly veering away from the uncanny valley and upward into the terrain of pure joy. SMS returns to Montage for its 16+ Black Friday celebration, with doors at 7 p.m. Advance tickets $29.95. PH
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 30
HOLIDAY
Holiday Market
Point of the Bluff, pointofthebluffvineyards.com
Cozy ciders, flannel scarves and the scent of pine awaits at holiday markets all across the region. But as a vineyard, Point of the Bluff boasts another key ingredient of the season: plenty of wine. This holiday pop-up runs every Saturday through Dec. 21 at the spot’s pavilion in Hammondsport, with plenty of live music and local vendors
to get you started on your shopping list. 12-5 p.m. PH
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 1
THEATER
“A Christmas Carol”
Geva Theatre, gevatheatre.org
“I write for the theater because theater is the most human thing I know,” begins the artistic statement of Geva’s playwright in residence Harrison David Rivers. His latest work is a new adaptation of Charles Dickens’s iconic “A Christmas Carol,” which Geva brings to its Wilson Stage from Nov. 23 – Dec. 29 as directed by Elizabeth Williamson. Just in time for the holidays, everything old is new again. $32-$82. PH
MONDAY, DECEMBER 2
MUSIC
Bill Kirchen’s Honky Tonk Holiday Show
Lovin’ Cup, lovincup.com
Texas’s Bill Kirchen, dubbed the
“Titan of the Telecaster” by “Guitar Player” magazine, is no stranger to the Rochester live music scene. But he keeps returning because audiences here eat up his slick, clean, rockabillyready lead lines. A former member of Commander Cody and His Lost Planet Airmen and a frequent collaborator of Nick Lowe, Kirchen and his current sidemen (bassist Jack Saunders and drummer Rick Richards) provide the perfect electric antidote to our stale December weather. The holiday-themed honkytonk begins at 7 p.m. $30. PH
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 3
THEATER
young actress named Vanessa Hudgens portrayed Cindy Lou Who. Which future stars sparkle in this cast? Find out when the show runs Dec. 3-8 with a Saturday morning and afternoon show available for the littlest ones. (Performances are recommended for kids 5+.) Tickets run $46-$104. PH
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4
MUSIC
Madrigalia: A Cup of Good Cheer
Hochstein School of Music, hochstein.org
Christmas!
“Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole
The Musical”
West Herr Auditorium Theatre, rbtl.org Max the Dog has his day as the narrator of this touring production of Dr. Seuss’s beloved holiday tale. When the musical hit San Diego in 1998, a
The chamber choir group Madrigalia celebrates its 50th anniversary season this year, making its holiday concert run an even more special occasion. The shows will be Dec. 6-8, but before that, the group stops by N. Plymouth Ave. for a noontime show as part of WXXI Classical’s Live from Hochstein series. Music’s at 12:10 p.m. Not a bad way to spend your lunch hour. PH
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 5
THEATER
“The Prince of Egypt”
OFC Creations, ofccreations.com
The Book of Exodus got a familycentric animated adaptation in 1998 with DreamWorks’s “The Prince of Egypt” starring Val Kilmer and Ralph Fiennes as voice talents. The film earned more than $200 million; a stage musical was all but inevitable, and arrived in 2017, thanks to writers Stephen Schwartz and Philip LaZebnik. When it lands at OFC Creations, the show will include Jacob Dickey (who performed as Aladdin on Broadway) as Moses, Senzel Ahmady (from the “Aladdin” touring show) as Tzipporah and Koray Tarhan (who was Daniel Radcliffe’s Broadway understudy for “Merrily We Roll Along”) as Ramses. The show runs Dec. 5-29 and is appropriate for all ages. $41.80 - $54.80. PH
FOOD & BEV
Happiest Hour
Strong National Museum of Play, museumofplay.org
Ropes course. Butterfly garden. The history of your childhood toys meticulously researched, preserved and presented in a new context. That’s the allure of visiting the Strong National Museum of Play on any given day. But this adults-only boozy happy hour, a regular favorite, presents yet another good reason to raise a glass to your inner child while supporting the museum’s continuing mission. 5:309:30 p.m. Tickets $22. PH
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 6
COMEDY
Kam Patterson
Comedy @ the Carlson, carlsoncomedy.com
When it comes to breaking talent, podcasts are the new late-night shows. Case in point: comedian Kam Patterson, who’s become a regular on “Kill Tony,” a live podcast taped in Austin hosted by Tony Hinchcliffe and viewed by its nearly 1.9 million YouTube subscribers. Patterson’s star has risen as a result. It helps that his stand-up is packed with expressive storytelling and an unbeatable smile. He does two 21+ sets; the first is sold out, but tickets for the 9 p.m. show are $22. PH
FESTIVAL
Roc Holiday Village
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Park, rocholidayvillage.com
Save the date for the season opening of the sixth annual Roc Holiday Village. The market will be located in Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Park and is open Wednesday through Sunday. Visitors can enjoy free ice skating (with skate rentals), a shopping market, local food vendors and visits with Santa and book igloo inns for private events. The holiday fest runs until Dec. 29. Check online for daily activities and event schedule.
MEILI SHEPARD
The beer bubble
BY GINO FANELLI GFANELLI@WXXI.ORG
It’s a bustling Thursday evening at the collaboration taproom of Sager and Stoneyard brewing companies as guests settle in for the weekly trivia night. Jeffrey Osborne, the head brewer and co-owner of Stoneyard, is rushing back and forth between the front of house and the metallic jungle of brewing equipment occupying the rear of the building, each time bearing a keg filled with fresh beer or returning it drained.
Sager-Stoneyard, which opened in 2023, is a first-ofits-kind taproom in Rochester. Stoneyard struggled for years to keep a taproom open, its canal side Brockport location being the most recent to shutter. Sager, led by brewer Paul Guarracini, specialized since its opening in 2018 in traditional European beers. The contrast with Osborne’s more adventurous brewing style made for a good symbiosis.
But this collaboration is also an indicator of the status of the local brewing industry—the golden age is dead, the market has stabilized and many breweries have to get creative to keep afloat.
“I think craft beer is going backwards a bit, at least (compared) to when it was blowing up,” Osborne said. “Back then, everyone wanted craft beer, but now it’s back to a pub atmosphere and you want to have a strong sense of community.”
Between 2013 and 2023, the number of craft breweries across New York has more than tripled,
As the number of craft breweries declines, the once-booming industry examines new ways to survive.
from 165 to 539, according to data from the Brewers’ Association. Most of that explosive growth took place in the latter half of the 2010s, with 131 breweries opening statewide between 2017 and 2020.
But those figures have since slowed. In the three years that followed, 79 breweries opened across the state. Craft breweries that were once early adopters in the industry have been closed, sold or merged. And the odds of a new can making it to a Wegmans shelf are slimmer than ever, with distributors looking to shed brands more often than add them.
The year of 2022 to 2023 also saw the number of craft breweries drop nationally, with regional craft breweries and microbreweries falling by 1.9% and 1.5%, respectively, although taproom numbers increased by about 3.7%.
It’s a tight industry, and a tough one to survive in.
“It’s not dying, it’s not dead, it’s a business,” said Paul Leone, executive director of the New York State Brewers’ Association. “It’s not new anymore.”
ADAPTATION
In December 2022, Nine Spot Brewing opened its long-planned taproom on Monroe Avenue, a stone’s throw from the Strong National Museum of Play.
At the time, the modest-sized brewery sought to create a space centered around all things New York — foods from around the state, uniquely New York decor and grains and hops sourced almost entirely from the Empire State, the latter being a part of the rules of its state Farm Brewers license.
Less than two years later, the location shuttered. In August 2024, the brewery announced it was leaving the taproom to take over the cafe at nearby Geva Theatre. Before that, brewer Mike Beebe left to work at Stumblin Monkey in Victor. The brewery now has all of its beer brewed by other local facilities.
“We were still really passionate about what we were doing, and we were winning awards all over the place for our beer,” said Nine Spot co-owner Chris Nothnagle. “But we had to think about it from the
lens of, ‘OK, how do we stay small and ride out this trend?’”
Nothnagle viewed the Monroe Avenue taproom as the highest piece of overhead the brewery had, and it was not bringing in the revenue it needed. Nine Spot had taken over the food program at Geva prior to closing the taproom, and it quickly became a key revenue driver. Nothnagle described closing the taproom as the “most difficult no-brainer” decision he’s ever made.
“If you have something interesting to say, then I recommend, by all means, open up a taproom, if you’re doing something that is not only great beer, but offering an experience, go for it,” Nothnagle said. “But if your goal is to say, ‘I want to focus on IPAs and we’re going to make really good ones,’ that’s not enough to draw people to a taproom on a regular basis anymore.”
Leone echoed that sentiment. Craft beer is no longer just about beer. Brewing good beer is a
Jeff Oz, owner of Stoneyard Brewing, swigs a sample of beer while filling a keg of his craft beer from the brewing tanks at Sager-Stoneyard Pub. Sager Beer Works and Stoneyard Brewing are working together to expand the two breweries’ portfolio.
PHOTO BY MAX SCHULTE
Chris Nothnagle, owner of Nine Spot Brewing, at Geva Theatre cafe where he and his wife, Marina, have moved their brewery’s taproom to help grow the audience for their New York-sourced beer.
PHOTO BY MAX SCHULTE
baseline, an expectation of anyone willing to open a taproom. What makes a brewery successful is creating an experience.
“Having really good beer is not enough anymore, you got to have a little extra draw,” Leone said.
THE BIG AND SMALL
At a time when many craft breweries are treading water, K2 Brothers stands as an outlier. Since it opened in Penfield in 2017, the brewery has worked at an incessant upward march, expanding its distribution network and opening satellite locations in Buffalo and, most recently, the former Freewill Elementary School in Walworth. In that growth, the brewery has also absorbed parts of the craft beer
ecosystem. When ROC brewing, an elder fixture in the craft beer scene, closed last year, K2 hired brewer Nick Mesrobian as their new head brewer.
Likewise, when Canandaigua’s Young Lion, once one of the largest craft breweries in the region, closed in February, K2 bought the brand.
The brewery structure on the shores of Canandaigua Lake was purchased by Other Half Brewing Company.
Similar incidents of brand merging can be seen in other regional breweries. For example, in September, Captain Lawrence and Bronx Brewing, two legacy craft breweries in the New York City metropolitan area, announced they would be combining their operations.
On a Tuesday in mid-October, owners Brad and Kyle Kennedy sat
at a long table in what was once the school cafeteria. The school is an ambitious project, and the end-run of a nearly five-year search for another K2 space.
“Really, I think the reason it’s
working for us is that we’ve tried to make an experience,” said Brad Kennedy.
The K2 purchase of the Young Lion brand made sense for the Kennedys. K2 had previously contract-brewed beers at Young Lion’s facility, and both breweries were already housed under the same distributor, Wright Beverage. The latter is a major motivator for acquiring a beer brand.
New York works under a threetier system for beer sales: producers, wholesalers, or distributors, and retail. A brewer is required to go through a distributor in order to sell at, for example, Wegmans.
At the height of the craft beer boom, distributors were quick to scoop up brands, as consumers were
Brothers Bradley and Kyle Kennedy at K2 Brewing's new production facility and taproom in Walworth. Inset, Sales Manager Sean Smith pours a sample of peanut butter stout. PHOTOS BY MAX SCHULTE
eager to get their hands on a wide berth of products. Now, if a new brewery wanted to enter distribution, it’s next to impossible.
“That era where wholesalers are really trying to get a good craft beer portfolio is over,” Leone said. “So, (for) a brewer that’s thinking, ‘I really want to get into retail,’ the wholesalers will tell them, we don’t have any space for you. We’re good.”
In all, craft beer sales are down nationally, dropping 1% in 2023, according to data from the Brewers Association.
The beer industry has notable new competition in ready-to-drink cocktails, an industry that has seen explosive growth in recent years and is projected to hit $40 billion market value by 2027, according to data from BevSource. Comparably, the craft beer industry was valued at $28.9 billion in 2023.
“It’s High Noons, White Claw vodka,” said Sean Smith, sales manager at K2. “They’re stealing a lot of the market share. Back when I started, I don’t think we had any of those.”
At Sager, head brewer and coowner Guarracini has no interest in getting into distribution beyond what little he delivers to local pubs. But it’s also not exactly an option. His partner in Stoneyard has distribution through TJ Sheehan; the demand for those beers is limited to begin with, let alone adding more.
“He (Osborne) was one of the first local craft brands that they picked up, but now it’s like he’s in the doghouse, because he doesn’t have the cachet, in their minds, of (Auburn’s) Prison City or whoever else they’re carrying,” Guarracini said. When the COVID-19 pandemic hit, a wave of fear that mass closures
were coming hit the craft brewing industry, and the proverbial bubble, growing larger with each new brewery and taproom, would finally burst.
But for Leone, there is, and was, no bubble. Beer isn’t going anywhere, but it’s an industry that would eventually hit a saturation point of what a local market can support. New York, he said, is at that point. For every brewery that closes, another opens. The sales figures remain largely flat. Competition creeps in at every corner.
With the golden age of growth in the rearview, the craft beer industry is stripped of pretense to become what it always has been: hard work.
“It’s not in peril,” Leone said. “Sure, some are closing, and it sucks. These are really good people that gave their hearts and souls to these things, and it just didn’t work.”
Caity Zubler of Irondequoit and Sabrina Gatto of Greece gather at Sager-Stoneyard Pub.
PHOTO BY MAX SCHUILTE
Royal treatment
BY RACQUEL STEPHEN RSTEPHEN@WXXI.ORG
Whenever Petey King opens the concession window of his vibrantly designed food truck, he is almost always met with a long line of customers waiting to order their favorite Southern-style meal.
His business, Grill Kingz, is the self-proclaimed “home of the fried lobster,” King’s famous deep fried lobster tails that are served paired with two or more sides including asparagus or a seafood salad. It’s a luxury dining experience on wheels.
“I’m changing the whole food truck game,” King said. “They’re still trying to figure out how to create this pretty ass lobster.”
King’s menu also features fried salmon, shrimp, seafood chowder and the popular Henessey wings. He believes presentation is just as important as how good the food tastes.
“A lot of people eat with their eyes,” King said. “Once they taste it, and it’s good, that automatically just seals the deal.”
King, who is originally from Miami, owes his signatureprepared protein to his upbringing. Fried lobster was a dish he encountered regularly in the south, and he said it was “natural” to bring it to the area. He has intentionally kept his wheels within city limits, motivated by the ideology that “high-end food” should not be confined to a specific way of life.
“I just want to make it affordable,” King said of his
Grill Kingz brings surf-n-turf to the city,
pricing, which is usually half what is charged for the same items in wealthier neighborhoods. “I ain’t going to bleed they pockets like that, and you definitely get more bang for your buck.”
King and his wife, Brooke, first launched Grill Kingz as a brick and mortar at 447 North St., and it’s still operating under fixed business hours. The shop and the truck each provide a different experience at a different pace.
“Both (the food truck and the restaurant) are a necessity,” King said. “They always got to catch up with me with the food truck, but the brick and mortar is really relaxed and always there.”
During the winter months, when King has to park his truck, the restaurant keeps his business afloat. Ideally, the food truck is a way to send people back to the brick and mortar even if it means collaborating with other businesses.
“I’m locking in with bars, locking in with clubs, to bring that energy and that vibe,” King said.
One of his standing partnerships is with Turntable, a bar on the corner of Plymouth and Jefferson avenues. Grill Kingz can be found parked directly across from the bar every Friday night until it closes.
The owner of Turntable, Breeda Phoummany, said the venue’s kitchen is too small to manage food service on busier nights, so collaborating with King worked out for both businesses.
“I’m beneficial for them, they’re beneficial for me,” said King. “I’ve got a huge following and they have good drinks.”
On a rainy Friday night in mid-October, Pablo Johnson left his home in the 19th Ward to
Kingz food truck. He said it was his only reason for going outside.
“It’s just clean, professional service and the food is good,”
Johnson said. “You can’t beat it.”
Not long after, bar patrons began making their way over to the truck to place food orders before heading back inside to wait.
Grill Kingz can also be hired to vend outside various private events, and King hopes to one day expand his food truck business to bigger cities like Atlanta and his hometown Miami.
For a long time, King said he felt like his contribution to Rochester’s food culture was going unnoticed, but now he has arrived (pun intended).
“I’m humble, but I need to poke my chest out a little bit more and let them know I ain’t playing,” King said. “I want my spot, and I ain’t just gonna be looked over no more.” instagram.com/grillkingz
Petey King, owner of Grill Kingz. PHOTOS BY ROBERTO LAGARES
The signature Hennessy wings
The Grill Platter: fried lobster, shrimp and haddock.
Aging well
BY MAIAH JOHNSON DUNN
At 151 Park Avenue sits a small wine bar called Apogee. From the street, it glows warmly with dim lighting and the buzz of human connection.
Inside, two cozy tables sit in the bay windows flanking the entrance. A long, marble-topped bar centers the space highlighting wines from across the world. Additional seating dots the space, giving many opportunities for intimate conversation by flickering candlelight.
Apogee Wine Bar, which celebrated 10 years of business in October, has become a staple of Rochester’s local food and wine community — and owner Simone Boone is trying to take it all in. The certified sommelier and Rochester native didn’t grow up in a wine-drinking family.
“My father doesn’t drink at all and my mother gets a headache after one glass of Moscato,” said Boone. Through her career in hospitality, she grew to love the experience of food and wine pairing within the industry. A steak dinner paired with a peppery Syrah full of layered flavors was Boone’s initial aha moment.
“Every bite got better with the wine, and every sip got better with the food,” she said. “I remember tuning out the conversation at the table, wondering if everyone else was experiencing this, too.”
Boone began to take note of the active role wine can
Simone Boone reflects on
10 years of Apogee Wine Bar.
play in a meal if allowed. She sought out opportunities to experience this further locally and abroad with her partner in both love and business, Patrick Dutton. An impactful visit to Viña Cobos Winery on their 2011 Argentinian honeymoon solidified Boone’s career shift towards wine.
With no local schools offering wine certification courses, Boone took to the library, reading in her downtime. Soon, she started a tasting group filled with other Court of Master Sommelier hopefuls. She prepared delicious, healthy lunches to pair with wines that inspired spirited conversation and further bolstered learning. At its height, the group was composed of 12 people who piled into the 800-square-foot apartment Boone shared with Dutton.
“I love welcoming people into my home,” she said. “I love hosting and having a house full of people, and creating a space where people can come and be together over wine. That was the start of it all.”
By 2013, Boone was the first Black female to earn her Certified Sommelier Certification in Rochester. She turned her focus to creating a wine-forward, community-driven experience, something she felt was missing from the city’s Park Avenue neighborhood.
“Yes, we're a small market,” she said, “but that doesn't mean we need to wait to try great wines or to have a cool place exist outside of New York City.”
Apogee opened the next fall.
The space was designed by Boone, and the bar was handbuilt by Dutton. A decade later, it continues to feel warm with love and connection as strangers filling the bar seats leave as friends.
“Those are my favorite moments,” said Boone. “It just fills my cup.”
The menu pushes beyond the standard offerings often found on wine lists, featuring new and exciting glasses at accessible price points. A specials board details new offerings – perhaps a Turkish Rosé or a Moroccan Red.
“I'm so happy that I can provide a space for everyone,” said Boone. “Whether you want to ball out or you can only afford one glass of wine, you are welcome.”
Her next focus is strategizing the Apogee brand further, including private events, wine travel and possibly a mobile bar. Boone, who is also a fitness instructor at Midtown Athletic Club, is also exploring a way to fuse wine with self-care. She doesn’t tire easily, and she’s always dreaming.
Boone noted it can be difficult not to let imposter syndrome get in the way of her many accomplishments.
“I’m proud of myself — full stop,” she said, adding that more than anything, she’s just thankful. “I'm so grateful to my support system: to Patrick, to the community. I’m deeply, deeply grateful.” apogeewinebar.com
Simone Boone pours a glass of wine at Apogee's tenth anniversary party on Oct. 8.
PHOTO BY LOUIS RESSEL
Boone with her husband, Patrick Dutton, who built out Apogee.
PHOTO BY LOUIS RESSELL
A new book catalogs the cuisines of touring indie rockers, including one fateful night in Rochester.
Three-chords meal
BY PATRICK HOSKEN PATRICK@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
Stories of rock stars throwing televisions out of hotel windows have colored perceptions of being “on tour” since the genre’s heyday half a century ago. The reality, for most mid-tier gigging musicians anyway, is more mundane: a gas-station Subway sandwich or a bowl of warm ramen located near the venue.
The only thing more central to touring than the music, it turns out, is the grub.
That’s the premise of “Taste in Music: Eating on Tour with Indie Musicians,” a new essay collection compiled by Alex Bleeker, bassist of the Brooklynbased group Real Estate; and Luke Pyenson, a food writer who previously played in the indie bands Frankie Cosmos and Krill.
“Once we get on the road, the amount of time we spend onstage is dwarfed by the amount of time we spend in transit and at the table,” the authors write in the introduction.
San Francisco’s Chronicle Books published the collection of more than 40 entries in September. They examine backstage hospitality, self-care and body image issues, extolling the power of a good meal while on the road between music halls.
“That was one of the things that we were really excited about [was], through food, to be able to shed a different kind of light on what it’s like for people in our corner of the touring world,” Bleeker said.
Dr. Dog’s Eric Slick recounts a tale of accidentally consuming too many weed brownies at the Rochester music club Milestone, now Flour City Station, on East Ave. PHOTOS PROVIDED
Just what makes a good meal, anyway? Pyenson said it depends on the performer, because food is highly personal. But not getting one might contribute to a less-thanstellar night onstage.
“If each person didn’t get the meal that was right for them, absolutely, it affects the performance, and I’ve certainly had that happen,” he said.
Insights from artists both marquee (Talking Heads) and DIY (All Dogs) color the book. Fleet Foxes’s Robin Pecknold praises and eviscerates Subway’s veggie patty, a “gray-brown mélange of unidentifiable vegetal ingredients” which kept him fed during five plant-based years on the road.
A more mouth-watering entry comes from Sasami Ashworth, an Eastman School of Music graduate who writes of a brief stay outside Dublin fueled by Irish soda bread and thick-cut bacon. But one of the zaniest tales happened in Rochester, at the former music venue Milestones on East Avenue (now Flour City Station).
Eric Slick, best known as the drummer of Philadelphia folk-rock band Dr. Dog, began his touring career as part of a Frank Zappa tribute act. He was 18 years old, drumming along to complex songs with unexpected tempo changes. “To say I was an anxious mess is an understatement,” he writes.
One way he soothed himself was through food — “Rockstar Energy drinks and boxes of Honey Bunches of Oats” with his $10 per diem. But as Slick candidly and vulnerably explores, he also struggled with binge-eating episodes, including backstage at Milestones on May 10, 2006, when he ate four brownies in rapid succession.
The problem? The brownies were infused with weed.
“I remember that venue so well, but, I mean, I was also high out of my mind,” Slick recalled. “It’s entirely possible that I was in a simulation that day.”
The disenchantment doubled when Slick was cornered by a TV crew led by local public-access puppet Pisspot the Rabbit between sets. The footage is chaotic without even knowing that the long-haired teenager talked into plopping in
plastic buck teeth on camera is stoned beyond belief.
Now 37, Slick recalls the substance-fueled experience with hard-won levity. But he lingers on the body image issues that led him to scarf down the brownies in the first place.
“I’ve really struggled over the years with getting tagged in photos on Instagram and being like, ‘I don’t like that photo of myself.’ It’s kind of like dealing with body dysmorphia in real time,” he said. “Somebody’s like, ‘I posted this nice photo of you. Can you repost it?’ And I see it, and I’m like, ‘Oh god, no.’”
Though it seems like indie rockers historically chose baggy t-shirts and jeans to convey a total disinterest in fashion or style, Slick said he sees through that faulty logic.
“I’m always surprised at how image-driven the indie culture actually is, because I signed up for it thinking the same thing, and I realized quickly that it’s really no different than any of the other genres in music,” he said. “You might be wearing a t-shirt, but people will also judge you based on what t-shirt you wear.”
Bleeker agrees, and has bonded with Slick in the past over their shared history of compulsive eating in the indie sphere. He also called Slick’s essay a “big confirmation moment” for the book’s eventual success as a concept.
“When I was first getting involved in [indie rock], and touring in particular, it was the antithesis to the pop world,” Bleeker said.
“Yet I felt this kind of layered, confusing shame. It was, ‘I don’t care about [image], and people in my community don’t care about that at all,’ when of course I’m sure it was affecting so many of us.”
Slick caps his essay by mentioning his work with a dietitian to recognize his own disordered eating, and Pyenson noted he’s eager to see this kind of openness sparking conversations around the hidden costs of touring.
“What I hope happens from this book is that people who have not been on tour or don’t have anybody in their life who’s a touring musician realize this is a crazy way to live, and this is what people are actually going through,” he said. “And maybe to approach the topic of going on tour with a little bit more nuance and empathy.”
Ultimately, in Slick’s case, there were no hard feelings toward Rochester. He returned in 2015 with Dr. Dog to play the Lilac Festival. “I remember that show because someone tried to bring me a Dinosaur Bar-B-Que mess plate,” he said.
Whether that fan knew it or not, they were part of a rich culinary tradition. As Bleeker and Pyenson point out at the beginning of the book: “Tour represents the beautiful exchange between Band and Audience, the singular, ecstatic marvel of live music. But that lasts about an hour.”
The rest of the time, it’s all about the chow — and everything that comes with it.
Musicians Luke Pyenson (of Frankie Cosmos) and Alex Bleeker (of Real Estate) compiled the essays in “Taste in Music” and wrote their own.
PHOTOS PROVIDED
“Taste in Music” features essays from more than 30 touring musicians centering their eating habits on the road. The cover was designed by D.Norsen. PHOTOS PROVIDED
FOOD AND BEV NEWS, GOSSIP, AND GATHERINGS
CURATED BY LEAH STACY
BITE-SIZED NEWS
Italian restaurant Benucci’s, located in Pittsford Plaza closed on October 30 after 30 years; the business is currently listed for sale. Donuts Delite has closed its West Ridge Plaza location to refocus efforts on the Culver Road space. Goodness Cakes, a mainstay on University Ave., has closed. Bodega, a popular market and takeout counter on Park Ave., has closed, but is continuing breakfast and lunch takeout from sister site Rella on Monroe Ave. In preparation for an additional location at the Astor Place Wegmans in Manhattan, Next Door by Wegmans has completed a decor and menu overhaul for the first time since opening (not to worry; sushi remains the star).
Soon after Fox’s Deli in Brighton was named to the New York State Historic Business Preservation Registry in October, brothers Jason and Alex Rheinwald announced they will open a bagel shop on the corner of Park Ave. and Oxford St. In 1929, Irving Fox opened his first deli in Manhattan, eventually relocating to Joseph Avenue in Rochester in 1943. In 1957, he partnered with Harold Levine to open Harold & Irv’s Kosher Delicatessen at 1776 Monroe Ave. in Brighton, which occupied several spaces on Monroe Ave. until a fire destroyed the business in 1974. More than a year later, under the management of Irving’s son Shelly, Fox’s Deli opened in their current location at 3450 Winton Place. In 2022, after Shelly’s retirement, the Rheinwalds purchased the business.
FOR THE LOCAVORES
Black Button Distilling, Rochester’s first grain to glass distillery, inked a distribution agreement with New York-based airline JetBlue for its Bespoke Bourbon Cream Liqueur. Beginning in October 2024, Black Button’s Bourbon Cream will be served on all JetBlue flights. A locally founded and family owned business, Black Button Distilling has operated for over a decade in Rochester. In July 2023, Black Button relocated to a 28,000-square foot, state-ofthe-art facility on University Ave. In October, Strangebird earned a bronze medal at the 2024 Great American Beer Festival, the nation’s largest professional beer competition, for their Bird Light Yuzu, an American Lager fruited with Japanese citrus fruit.
FOOD FÊTES
Polite Ink. will host the 7th annual "Oh Watta Night!" comedy show to benefit The People’s Pantry on Saturday, Nov. 9. The Monopolythemed evening of improv and sketch comedy will take place at OFC Creations Theatre Center, 3450 Winton Pl., with proceeds benefiting The People's Pantry of Rochester, which has distributed over 400,000 pounds of food to more than 7,500 households in 2024 alone. In addition to groceries, they provide essential items such as diapers, pet food and personal hygiene supplies — all delivered with dignity and without discrimination. Tickets for the benefit are $20 advance, $25 at the door. politeink.com
A local chef competition, “Food Fight,” takes place at Good Luck’s event space, Jackrabbit Club, and features head-to-head chef showdowns once a month on Sundays at 8 p.m., along with guest bartenders, tunes from DJ Chreath and snacks from food trucks. The final qualifying round takes place Sunday, Nov. 17 with Andreas Petsos (Cure) and Jim Zobel (DoughBoyz); finals will take place in 2025. Free to attend. Proceeds benefit Foodlink. Check instagram.com/jackrabbit_ club for updates.
CROSSWORD PUZZLE ANSWERS
“GOATED & FOREBODED” BY COMFY
Its best song runs two minutes. Its final song spans eight, five of which are dedicated to an extended noise jam. The whole thing can be listened to in the span of running an errand (and back).
But numbers only tell part of the story of Comfy’s latest album, “Goated & Foreboded,” a journey to the center of power-pop with just enough detours to keep things interesting.
Here’s the rest: The hooks are bright, but vocalist Connor Benincasa strains to reach them. This tension creates a gripping texture, as when he delivers the chorus of the first song like an exorcism: You were my friend!
“Wasted” reflects the dissonance of the Pixies before melting into 1960s jangle pop. “Dream Is Dead,” big single material, moves like a Pavement deep cut fronted by Spiral Stairs.
The best part of “Dream Is Dead” is how it ramps up to a final triumphant guitar solo that never quite happens. When Benincasa and his band — guitarist Jack Washburn, bassist Duvanté Cora and alternate drummers Ben Chesnes and CITY’s art director Jake Walsh — subtly upend expectations like this, they fulfill their powerpop promise in dazzling ways.
The biggest deviation here is “Awake & Living,” the rousing eight-minute closing track that plays out like ‘90s Weezer covering The Velvet Underground’s “Sister Ray.” Power-pop is by nature economical, typically packing catchiness into three or four minutes. “Awake & Living,” by its very nature, bucks the trend to mirror the very essence of the song itself, captured right in its title.
Maybe there’s a lesson. Put one foot in front of the other, and only eight more measures until the next chorus — if you’re lucky. Sometimes there’s no chorus, only feedback. How do you wrangle the chaos into order? Might as well keep that beat going for a few more minutes.
— PATRICK HOSKEN
“TENDER AS A WOUND” BY CHORES
CTRL. ALT. GLAM. should be the keyboard shortcut to Chores’s latest album, "Tender as a Wound," which was released on October 25 and showcases the supportive, yet audacious musicianship of trio Jenn Wameling (guitar/backing vocals), Ian Egling (bass/synth/lead vocals) and Scar Markham (drums/percussion/vocals).
With an easy nodding ode in “Here Again,” tugs of sweet nowness get tempered by sour realities within this riffy album opener. Producer Ben Morey’s empathic, raucous production lenses provide an unfettered serving of Chores album-long. Making a Britpop entrance, “On the Floor” rises in the chorus, examining both sides of tender, with Wameling’s groovy and mathy guitar-work excelling at the seams: I can be tender / Tender as a wound / Hold it together / Until the suture comes unglued.
“Clip on Tie” shines light on a quick-fix culture, considering the real cost to keep climbing even as “Trip Wire” pokes fun at a desire to be irresponsible: What if I could set it somewhere on the kitchen table / And forget it as I rush out / Like I do with my keys? Egling’s melodic bass playing dances with his vocal delivery on this softer offering.
Days of television lip-sync are questioned in “Sky Blue,” as an observation gets cranking and more interesting, troubled minds are missed amidst colorful swirls, vocal shrieks and throbbing percussion from Markham. “If I’m Being Haunted” reckons the reality of a living memory, the loss of remembered harmony sung and who benefits from the continued closeness: You used to be a phone call away / Now you are a ghost / But if I’m being haunted / I’m happy we’re still close.
Driving for innocence with encore pomp, “Drove By Your Home” moves on, with a therapeutic ramble past a now-sold house, to a conclusive recitation: You used to be a really good friend of mine / And the way you left just wasn’t right.
— RYAN M. YARMEL
The City of Rochester looks to the community to
reimagine the future of funding and opportunities.
Creating a new arts and culture vision
BY LEAH STACY LEAH@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM
On the outskirts of the Corn Hill neighborhood just off Tremont Street is Roc Arts Event Space. Tucked up on the third floor in one of those ‘if you know, you know’ warehouses that are so plentiful around downtown Rochester, the 2,800-square-foot venue is operated by (and the studio of) local photographer Todd Fleming.
On a Friday night in late September, 25 or so artists, community members and City of Rochester staffers gathered in the airy loft space for presentations on the future of local arts and culture. The public session was part of an ongoing initiative to collect community input on a reimagined local arts and culture plan, led by the city’s planning department, Monroe County and a Columbus-based firm, Designing Local, with resources contributed by Rochester Area Community Foundation and the Farash Foundation.
According to the plan’s website, it “will deal with things like: How does arts funding get distributed? What organizations already exist, and who is missing from the table? Is it easy for artists/creators to thrive in this place? What barriers do people
Left, Lamar the Therapist, a member of the artist engagement team. Right, Heather Anderson, a planner with the City of Rochester PHOTOS BY RAFAEL RODRIGUEZ
From left, members of the artist engagement team: Interdisciplinary artist Paola Macas Betchart and visual artists LaShonda Davis and Shawn Dunwoody PHOTOS PROVIDED
face to self-expression here, and how can we eliminate or reduce them?”
City planner Heather Anderson, who moved to Rochester from Los Angeles in 2021, was among the presenters during the Friday night session. The Arts & Culture Plan is being developed in addition to the city’s existing Percent for the Arts Program, which allocates 1% of the development cost from qualifying infrastructure projects to help fund public art, though both fall under Anderson’s purview. The plan is to streamline both projects into a central “arts hub.”
“With the Percent for the Arts Program — which former Mayor Lovely Warren committed to doing under an equitable program — many don’t understand where it’s going or how it’s being spent,” Anderson said. “Some part of that disconnect came from the fact that several departments were administering this funding. It needs to be a central location to help accessibility and ensure that we’re not just thinking project by project, but moving toward a greater vision.”
Anderson said it was important to bring in an outside firm like Designing Local for research so the community wouldn’t feel censored.
“We want people to feel comfortable saying whatever they want,” said Anderson.
Designing Local’s team, which includes urban planners, landscape architects, a public art coordinator and a historic preservationist, has helped other mid-sized cities with similar public art consulting and research. The multi-step process includes one-on-one interviews with arts stakeholders, community outreach, focus groups and an online survey (currently open for public feedback through the end of November). The city also appointed a four-person artist engagement team, which they selected from applicants to an open call for proposals.
“Buffalo has an arts commission,” said Anderson. “Minneapolis did a plan that impressed us — that’s where we got the idea to have the arts engagement team.”
There were four artists selected: interdisciplinary artist Paola Macas Betchart, visual artists LaShonda Davis and Shawn Dunwoody and hip hop artist Lamar the Therapist.
A self-dubbed “hip health artist,” Lamar the Therapist is also a licensed mental health counselor working under both his own LLC, Mental Wealth Records, and Sankofa Family Counseling Services, a local private practice. A Rochester native, he spent six years in New York City earning his graduate degree in forensic mental health counseling from John Jay College of Criminal Justice as well as hosting and performing in the hip hop scene. When the pandemic hit in 2020, Lamar the Therapist returned home. He’s since been working to promote positive social change through music and mental health.
“As much as we focus on the outside and on
race, gender and religion — at the end of the day, everybody’s brain is gray and our blood is red,” he said. “If we look at things holistically, we can’t deny mental and emotional health is tied to physical and spiritual health.”
When the City of Rochester put out an RFP (request for proposal) for the artist engagement team, Lamar the Therapist didn’t hesitate to apply. Once he and the others were chosen, they were tasked with 75 compensated hours to gather community input on the plan, however they saw fit.
“It’s no small feat that (the city) decided to form an artist engagement team,” he said. “Designing Local gave us a lot of trust and independence, and Heather gets the power of it all as an artist herself. It’s been a joy to work with them.”
Lamar the Therapist focused his in-person research within the African diaspora — specifically at events like Juneteenth and the Clarissa Street Reunion. As part of the Rochester Black Arts Council, he is giving the 50-member organization updates along the way; he’s also in the Teaching Artist Institute of Rochester (TAIR) 2024-25 cohort, a “multi-day intensive workshop for artists of any discipline to expand their teaching practice, explore social justice pedagogy, get resources on the business of teaching artistry and connect with educators and cultural centers in Rochester as well as New York City.”
Ultimately, Lamar the Therapist would love to see Rochester support and fund a healthy hip hop scene.
“It’s an art form youth are actively engaged in — investing in it would cause a cultural shift,” he said. “It would show we’re not just supporting visual arts. Performing arts are a different way to express. In the same way people know they can go to the Bug Jar for punk, I want people to be able to do that for hip hop here.”
In addition to the individual work of the artist engagement team, Designing Local and the city popped up at the Public Market, Genesee Country Village & Museum in Mumford and several public schools in September and October to collect community feedback. Through those 10 or so events, Anderson and the others saw some themes start to emerge.
“From both an institutional and community standpoint, it’s a feeling that, post-pandemic, audiences are shrinking and it’s hard to reach them to tell them what's going on,” she said. “And then, how do we prevent splitting that smaller audience? And from the resident side, ‘if there’s so much going on, why do I find out after it’s over — how do I plan better?’”
It wasn’t always this hard to find things to do. Part of the information gap began in 2019, when the Arts & Cultural Council for Greater Rochester fully dissolved, taking with it an extensive community arts calendar and funding opportunities.
“There’s a need for something to replace (the arts council),” said Anderson. “Artists have less access to opportunities without thriving fiscal sponsorships.”
Through his feedback gathering, Lamar the Therapist often heard venue availability is also a challenge, particularly for performing artists.
“Music venues are either not owned by artists, or by Black artists or Black people in general,” he said. “Safety is another thing. Having some more innovation and creativity to make people feel safer would be helpful. We have to build more trust in each other, too — and show that Rochester is ready for these types of events.”
He cited a proof of concept in Rochester Fringe Festival’s annual Street Beat competition, which he said is the “epitome of hip hop: peace, love, unity and having fun.”
For Anderson, it all comes down to involving residents in the formation of a new plan — and that’s why the online survey is so important as they work toward a final draft in early 2025.
“This is high stakes and high impact, but not critical in the same way as gun control or a zoning project, so we need to give people another way to show up,” she said. “Part of the process is challenging us — artists excluded — to think bigger with arts and culture.”
Though the onsite pop-ups are complete, the survey — which sends public feedback and data directly to the planning team — will be open through the end of November at rochesterartsplan.com.
A community feedback pop-up event at the Rochester Public Market. PHOTO PROVIDED
CITY sits down with Christine Green, managing editor of “(585) magazine” and author of “Sweet Tooth”.
A taste of memory
BY JESSICA L. PAVIA
Tucked away past the first right turn of a dark hallway — a lone light, a door ajar — is a small office where “(585) Magazine,” and other JFM Publishing, LLC titles are brought to life. Inside sits Christine Green, managing editor and newly published author, next to bowls of sweets. CITY sat down in front of her milk glass candy jar to discuss “Sweet Tooth,” a collection of nonfiction pieces Green’s been compiling for years, published locally through Zaftig Press earlier this year.
CITY: YOU’VE SPENT MUCH OF YOUR PROFESSIONAL LIFE INTERVIEWING AND WRITING ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE. WAS IT STRANGE TO CLAIM THAT IMPOSING ‘I’? I would say that the looking inward started before the looking outward. I was even that kid — my son is like this, too — that was already nostalgic for the last year. My mom would be like, ‘you’re 10, calm down.’ I feel, in many ways, very comfortable with that “I,” I have always been doing that.
CITY: TELL ME ABOUT THE TITLE “SWEET TOOTH.”
It sounds so silly, but I am really into candy. To the detriment of my teeth, I’ve always had a sweet tooth. Especially in recent years, I have more of an understanding of why I turn to candy. But when I put the collection together, these were pieces that were all separate from each other. It was only when I stood back, I saw the parallel: I’m always craving something.
CITY: YOU SPENT TIME AS AN ARCHEOLOGIST, AND THE FIRST COUPLE OF ESSAYS EXCAVATE PHOTOS FOR PAST MEMORIES. WHAT’S THE CONNECTION THERE?
The way I think about it, coming from archeology, you have to look at the tiny details, and then all the tiny details come together and make the bigger picture. I think what we consider the minutiae of life — whether it be a broken piece of artifact, or some so-called silly memory — is
actually how you understand the whole.
CITY: IN THE ESSAY “POWDER BLUE,” YOU WRITE ABOUT WORDS HAVING A TASTE. DOES THE TASTE OF WORDS CHANGE WHILE WRITING?
This is really making me think about my own brain! It’s helpful for me to know a word in my sentences by all senses. So I have to see it, and yeah, sometimes I do, especially with colors, have to taste it. For
me, the words have sounds and textures that all go back to memory.
CITY: SOMETIMES, YOU SLIP INTO MAGICAL REALISM. I’M CURIOUS ABOUT YOUR THOUGHT PROCESS. That last piece, when I’m at the top of the pyramid and I fly away, obviously that didn’t happen. But that was the visual of the feeling I had. It’s, again, these small mundane moments I wanted the reader to know transcend reality, because it has created a different level in my heart. Memory, in its own way, is a type of inner fiction. There are things we hold onto as ‘memory’ that either didn’t happen or happened in a different way, and I think playing with that is exciting.
CITY: WHEN WE EAT, THERE’S A FEELING OF FULLNESS THAT’S COMFORTING. WHEN WE WRITE, WE CAN HAVE A SIMILARLY CATHARTIC EXPERIENCE. WITH THIS BOOK NOW BEING OUT IN THE WORLD, HOW DO YOU FEEL?
It feels really freaking great. Now that it’s out in the world, I’m like, ‘this is fun.’ We should have fun. We should have parties. I want people to read it and I want to hear what they have to say about it. I want to celebrate that this is out and I feel very, very happy. And it makes me want to do more.
Christine Green will talk about “Sweet Tooth” on Saturday, Nov. 9 at Writers & Books, 740 University Ave. For more info and tickets, visit wab. org/event/christine-green-sweet-tooth.
SELECTIONS FROM “SWEET TOOTH” BY CHRISTINE GREEN
MIRROR
On my television there is a boy—probably about twelve—standing on a gray and stony Bay Area beach.
“I’m proud to be a Mexican-American!” he declares, fist pumping in the air as the ocean breeze ruffles his sweatshirt.
I stop everything when this public service announcement comes on channel two. I get right up close to the TV, so I can watch him intently and soak up every word. My mom always tells us that we should be proud to be Mexican and American.
“But we aren’t from Mexico,” I always say, confused.
I don’t yet understand about moving borders, about wars that put families first in one country and then another, about the Southwest and the borderlands.
This proud boy appears on TV once, maybe twice a day. But after a minute or two he is gone and The Brady Bunch resumes and they are so blond and have a maid and a two story house and their parents let their dog inside. I watch Marsha and Jan and Cindy because that is what is offered. I swallow the images and covet their pink ruffled room and attached bath.
I wait patiently through Petticoat Junction reruns and The Andy Griffith Show for the Mexican-American boy to return to the screen, so he can teach me how to be proud.
SUGAR BABY
1983
Your mom is hot, man.
We look out the window at my friend’s mom. Her long brown legs in a white tennis skirt draw all eyes her way as she pumps gas. We stand there in the convenience store, with Charleston Chews and Sweet Tarts clutched in sweaty fists, stunned that these men with tattoos and cigarettes hanging from their lips are talking to us. We just came in for sugar.
Really, dude, she’s hella sexy. I mean, look at those legs!
We laugh. No one told us how to react when men scare us, when they reduce our mothers to a pair of legs. No one taught us how to walk away. All we know is how to giggle and eat sweets.
To be sweet.
To smile, and nod, yes.
We have not yet learned that no is an option.
1995
I walk the long seven blocks from my apartment to my job in the predawn dark. The streets should be empty, but they never are. Men (so many men) doze on sidewalks, wave hello as I pass. They serve up soft whistles, mumbled offers, and outstretched hands. I jut out my chin and pull my shoulders back convinced that I look like a badass, like I could take on whatever is put in my path. But every time I safely reach my destination, I let out the breath I’ve been holding for half a mile, half a lifetime.
Halloween Hangover
PUZZLE
BY S.J. AUSTIN & J. REYNOLDS
1. Ewe’s mate
4. Landed (upon)
8. Love to pieces
13. Ana Navarro, to Joy Behar
19. 60 minuti
20. “It is high... it is far... it is _____!” (Yankees radio home run call)
21. “They’re mine now!”, informally
22. Cured
23. Diapered baseball legend?
25. E’en if
26. Sneaker company that has partnered with Run DMC and Kanye West
27. Like many bodybuilders, according to B.M.I. alone
28. Get out of Dodge
30. Classic video game console
32. Prepped the soil
34. WSW opposite
35. Given first name of The Weeknd
36. Musical instrument that is often given away-if you can come pick it up and move it
41. “Blueberries for _____” (Classic picture book)
42. Roofing material
44. Tiny fraction of a min.
46. Like Tom Hanks’s character in “Cast Away”
48. Recluses
50. Genre for the artists named in 26-Across
52. Underwhelming dairy product?
53. Noun for a Spanish student just getting their feet wet
56. Comedian Wong
57. Snippet of HTML code crawled by search engines
59. “_____ Dreams of Sushi,” documentary about a Michelin star sushi chef
60. USB interfaces
62. Des Moines’s home
64. Mum’s mum
65. Holiday pie ingredient
66. Hoppy barroom offering
68. Wheel cover
71. Longhorns, e.g.
72. The stuff in a pumpkin-shaped bowl on the morning of Nov. 1-or a clue to understanding the arrangement of the circled answers
75. Floated gently in the air
79. Hot dog, slangily
80. Film material
85. Early April zodiac sign
86. “Mazel _____!”
87. Lure in
89. Push away
90. Brit. nobleman between an earl and a baron
91. Quinn and Gordon-Levitt, for two
94. 65-Across, e.g.
96. Ecosystem for an anemone
97. Made like Houdini
99. Yank’s foe
100. Horror franchise with the antagonist Ghostface
102. Place to drink with a side of toffee?
104. Shower need
106. Part of S.A.S.E.
107. Civil rights leader _____ B. Wells
110. Archipelago makeup
111. Food truck staple
113. Fall behind
115. Offs
117. Prague native
119. Cause of some Yellowstone traffic jams
121. Shrewd
122. Ornamental plant used by Mr. Miyagi to teach meditation
126. Olympic superstar Ledecky
128. Took off
130. U.S. moon-landing program
131. German steel city
132. One who is likely to crush it in calculus, not crossfit?
133. NPR host Glass
134. Actress who won an Academy Award for her portrayal of Queen Elizabeth II
135. Salty drops
136. Nabisco sandwich cookie
137. Miniature dog
1. Many modern warehouse workers 2. Peninsula northeast of Africa 3. Old phone company nickname
4. Go along with 5. Baseball’s Gehrig
6. The “I” in IHOP: Abbr.
Titter
Tequila sources 9. Chiquita competitor
Baseball legend Mel 11. Post-op program 12. Hams it up 13. Blacken 14. Like a certain Freudian complex 15. Japanese “yes”
Aged
17. Pirate’s domain 18. Scoring stats for NFLers 24. French fashion inits. 29. Coulter and Landers, for two 31. Director Robert 33. Comedian Carvey
35. More than one way to skin _____ 37. Printer alternative to laser 38. Attendee of a 12-step meeting 39. Pertaining to the nervous system 40. Quirky individual 43. How to spell “relief,” according to an old ad campaign
Before, poetically
Fix
Running behind
Carnival city
58. Spanish appetizer
61. Good career for a smooth talker
63. No specific person
65. Check writer
67. Modern light bulb technology
69. “Big” name in London
70. Classic MTV show about the lives of some people
71. U.S. public health org.
73. “Terrible” years for toddlers
74. Classic PBS show about the lives of some animals
