Tucsonbouldering by Tyler McMillen by RocksRopes Gym

Patrick Thornton on Half Slab © Andrew Kornylak

Right front: Todd Ganglehoff on Scary Spice Back: Monica Wang on Old Spice Cover design by Gina Nelson Uncredited photos by the author.

V6 1 unnamed problem 1 unnamed problem Broken Rubber *** 2 variations 2 unnamed problems Jailhouse Traverse ** Barefoot Traverse ***

AT GP GP MB SB SML SML

Big Gulch *** The Fittest ** 1 unnamed problem ***

AT GG MB

1 unnamed probelem *** 1 unnamed problem Double Barrel **

AT GP SG

Swamp Thingie **

Jewel Thief ***

2 problems

2 problems 2 problems 3 problems 2 problems

FR GG MB RB

1 problem 1 problem 2 problems Act I

GP MB RB RC

1 problem 3 problems 1 problem Act II

MB RB RE RC

Hairpin Roof *** Half Slab *** Sideshow Bob ** The Slingshot *** Cocoa Pebble * Credit Card * Zester **

SML SG SG SG WoR WoR WoR

V7 I’ve been Jacked! ** The Raisin ** Red Arete ***

MC SG TV

V8 Fire Pit Problem *** The Road to Damascus **

CS SG

V9 V10 B1B1 1 problem 1 problem Pink Streak 1 problem

RC SUM SML TV

Tucson Bouldering Overview of Tucson area……………………………………….. Introduction……………………………………………………... Safety…………………………………………………………… Season…………………………………………………………… Logistics………………………………………………………… Rating conventions and recommended problems…….………… Areas Cochise Stronghold…………………………………………. Silverbell Boulders…………………………………………. Red Boulder………………………………………………… Finger Rock Canyon.……………………………………….. Gates Pass…………………………………………………... Saguaro National Monument……………………………….. Tanque Verde Wash………………………………………… La Milagrossa Canyon……………………………………… Mount Lemmon…………………………………………….. Scattered problems…………………………………….. Matterhorn Boulder……………………………………. Secret Gulley…………………………………………... Galapagos Gulley……………………………………… Rose Canyon Campground…………………………….. Rose Canyon Entrance…………………………………. Wilderness of Rocks…………………………………… Aspen Trail…………………………………………….. Summit Boulders………………………………………. Index of problems by grade……………………………………..

B1+ 2 problems 1 problem Diagonal 2 problems

RE SUM SML TV

B2 Act III 1 problem 1 problem 1 problem

RC SML SUM TV © David Branson

2 3 4 4 5 6 7 8 9 9 10 12 13 16 18 19 21 23 30 31 35 36 45 48 49

V3 5 unnamed problems 2 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 3 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 1 unnamed problem Hatt Baby ** 1 unnamed problem Hung out to Dry * The Ladder *** Sour Tower * Thrown Unda the Bus ** 2 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 1 unnamed problem Little Man Traverse ** Old Spice ***

AT CS GG GP MB MC MC RC RC RC RC RC RE SB SG SG SG

4 unnamed problems Bee-ouch ** 2 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem White Chocolate ** 2 unnamed problems 2 unnamed problems 2 unnamed problems Ditch Digger **

AT GG GP MB MC RE SB SG SG

2 unnamed problems Simmer Down *** 2 unnamed problems Flake *** 2 unnamed problems 2 unnamed problems Deforestation ** Panda Arete ** Scary Spice (sit down) **

GG GG GP MB SB SG SG SG SG

Reach Around * The Seal ** Sideshow Mel * Slappin’ Time 2 unnamed problems Apocalip * Armpit Bleausard ** Double Underclings * Ghandi Here Today, gone Tomorrow Master of None Milk It Sap Muffin Seven Seas Spank Through

SG SG SG SG TV WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

Pleasure Box * Rubber Conspiracy ** The Open Book ** 2 unnamed problems Andy’s Dyno Diesel Power * Motherfucker ** Rapid Fire ** Why O Y **

SG SG SG TV WoR WoR WoR WoR RC

WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

V5 Shit Sideshow Mel (sit down) * Smokin’ Crack * Spaceship ** 3 unnamed problems Beating around the Bush Religious Streaker * Titty Twister

SG SG SG SG SG TV WoR WoR WoR

Introduction

V1 3 unnamed problems Now ** 4 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 1 unnamed problem Dirty Laundry * Gotta have my Pops Put ‘em in the Basket, Henry ** 2 unnamed problems The Banana ** Bee Bop Bitch Root

AT GG GP MB MC RC RC RC SG SG SG SG

6 unnamed problems The Tongue * 4 unnamed problems Genotype ** Phenotype ** 3 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 2 unnamed problems Clothesline Traverse ** Pose Canyon ** Ripple Nippler * Ruby Slopers * 2 unnamed problems 3 unnamed problems Back Scratcher * Crystal Meth * Felcher Monica’s problem Pooper Scooper ** Snail Traverse * 1 unnamed problem Jibba Jabba ** 4 unnamed problems Dike * Dirty Deeds

AT AT CS GG GG GP MB RC RC RC RC RC RE SG SG SG SG SG SG SG SML SML TV WoR WoR

Scary Spice ** Cockring *** Big League Chew Chubb * Chunnel East Arete Ice Cube Mushroom Mantle Twelve-Foot Pole * Stepping Stone The Whale West Arete

SG TV WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

Dogs Don’t Sweat Highway to Hell * 3 Dogs in a Hole I had a Picture Pinned to my Wall * I’m Lichen It Layaway Left of Cave Moby Dick Muscle Shoals * Nut Fuzz * Pocket Roof Traverse * Stiff Upper Lip * Stop the Presses Suede Shoe Blues Thank you Sir The Bat The Lemmon * The Ruins * Thunderstruck Trailside Wet Spot *

WoR WoR WoR WoR

WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

In 1985, Bob Murray concluded a chapter on bouldering at Mt. Lemmon with the words, “Perhaps you’ve noticed that all the above areas are close to the beaten path. It’s hard to escape the feeling that much more excellent bouldering remains to be discovered.” In the sixteen years since these words were written, much new bouldering has been discovered, some of it re-discovered many times over. Some of it hasn’t been that far from the trail; some has only been uncovered after hours of hiking and bushwhacking. One thing is certain, though: the hardest problems are yet to be climbed. So, is Tucson a good place to go bouldering? Yes – especially if you buy this book! However, it’s not Hueco Tanks or Bishop. A high concentration of boulders is rare, and some of the best problems are on isolated boulders. Expect to do some hiking to get to the best problems. It has been more than a decade since any sort of guide to bouldering in Tucson has been published. And this is a shame, as there is good bouldering here; you just have to know where it is. Indeed, one of the motivations for writing this book is to dispel the notion that there isn’t much good bouldering in Tucson, and to let people know what they are missing. With the recent explosion in the popularity of bouldering for its own sake, it is high time that a guide was written. Hopefully, this book will serve both as a guide for those whose interest in bouldering for its own sake has been piqued, and as a starting off point for those who would like to leave their own mark. There is still plenty more to be done. So, if you are heading from Bishop to Hueco Tanks, and would like to break the trip up a bit, you might want to think about pulling on the granite boulders around Tucson. Tucson is a great place for a climbing trip in general. You can load up on some great, stomach eating Mexican food, enjoy the Sonoran desert, and maybe do a few classic boulder problems. What is the rock like? The rock in Tucson is almost all of three types: gritty granite, polished granite, and a small amount of volcanic tuff. The lower elevation volcanic at Silverbell and Gates Pass is reminiscent of the rock at the Happy Boulders. The higher elevation granite on Mt. Lemmon reminds one sometimes of Joshua Tree, although some of the exposed, wind blasted rock has a feel all its own. The water polished granite in Tanque Verde Wash will force you to use good footwork. Thanks I would like to thank everyone who contributed time, energy and good vibes in helping with this guide. Without them, it would be a fraction of what it is, and it would probably suck. No -- it would definitely suck. Especial thanks go out to Monica Wang, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, C.P. Little, Patrick Thornton, David Branson, Gina Nelson and Todd Ganglehoff, to Andrew Kornylak for providing topos to Wilderness of Rocks, to Eric Richardson for providing topos to the Yellow Brick Boulders, and to Dr. Topo for the use of his Cochise topos. I hope you enjoy this book, and the boulders, as much as I enjoyed writing it.

! WARNING:

Safety

Bouldering is inherently dangerous! You can be severely injured or killed if you are not extremely careful. OTD means “Off The Deck.” There is an especially high potential of getting hurt falling off of these problems. Use good judgment. Take note, though, that you can hurt yourself on any problem, not just the OTD problems. Make sure you know what you are doing before you head out to the boulders. It is highly recommended that you get a crash pad before you head out. You can make your own from easily obtainable materials for less than $50, or you can buy one of the numerous, ridiculously overpriced, commercial pads on the market. Spotting: The function of the spotter is to guide the falling climber to a safe landing, not to catch the climber. The first priority is to protect the head. A good spot begins by placing the pad where the climber is likely to fall, not necessarily underneath the starting holds. The spotter will then guide the falling climber to the pad, keeping the head from hitting the ground. As you are spotting, watch the climber’s center of gravity, not the arms and legs. The arms and legs may be flailing away, and the climber may still hold on, but if the center of gravity starts falling, the climber has become airborne, and it is time to guide her safely to the pad. When guiding the climber, place your hands above the center of gravity, so that as she falls her head will stay safely above the ground. Holds break, feet slip, and when you least expect it, you will be falling, hopefully onto that pad, guided by an attentive spotter. Be safe.

Season Tucson is a real year-round climbing area, as opposed to those so-called yearround areas where you can pull on greasy soap dishes in the summer, and ice in the winter. You can get good climbing days in 300+ days per year, the only limitation being the monsoon season, which lasts for about 6 weeks at the end of summer. The variation in elevation on Mt. Lemmon, and shady/sunny areas allows one to find the cooler or warmer areas as needed. That said, the best times to climb in Tucson are late fall, winter, and early spring. From late September to early May, the climate in Tucson is almost ideal: warm days and cool nights. Summers can be good, but options are usually limited to the top of the mountain, and don’t even think about the Secret Gulley or Gates Pass in the summer, unless you enjoy pulling on soap dishes in saunas. But, if you are feeling a bit melancholic on a dreary winter afternoon, the boulders around Tucson are a good place to thrash your fingers. The best areas for the various times of year usually follow this pattern:

Problems by grade For each grade, problems are arranged by area, then alphabetically in each area. Key: ML=Mount Lemmon Area, AT=Aspen Trail (ML), CS=Cochise Stronghold, FR=Finger Rock Canyon, GG=Galapagos Gulley (ML), GP=Gates Pass, MB=Matterhorn Boulder (ML), MC=Milagrossa Canyon, RB=Red Boulder, RC=Rose Canyon (ML), RE=Rose Canyon Entrance (ML), SG=Secret Gulley (ML), SB=Silverbell Boulders, SML=Scattered Mt. Lemmon problem, SUM=Summit Boulders (ML), TV=Tanque Verde Wash, WoR=Wilderness of Rocks (ML)

V0- & under Name 4 problems 6 unnamed problems 3 unnamed problems Grand Slam * 4 unnamed problems Enormous Face (5.7) **

Area FR GP RC RC SG SG

5 unnamed problems 3 unnamed problems 7 unnamed problems 2 unnamed problems Downy Fresh Traverse * Moons over my Hammy * Shitstain * 6 unnamed problems Stumpy * 1 unnamed problem

AT CS GP MB RC RC RC SG SG TV

4 unnamed problems 1 unnamed problem 4 unnamed problems Supah Scoop ** Superbird **

GP MC RC RC RC

Area TV WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

Crunch ‘n Munch Flakes Lone Pine Mantle * Mule Route North Face One of these Days The Seed

WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR WoR

1 unnamed problem ** 1 unnamed problem Lichen Rail * For Those About to Rock **

RC SG SB SG WoR

VO+

Winter:

Secret Gulley, Silverbell Boulders, Red Boulder, Gates Pass, Tanque Verde Wash, Cochise Stronghold Spring, Fall: Secret Gulley, Matterhorn Boulder, Wilderness of Rocks, Aspen Trail Summer: Wilderness of Rocks, Aspen Trail, Summit Boulders

Name 2 unnamed problems Big Balls Chubbier (5.9) Get Bent (5.8) Gumby’s Warmup ** Neo (5.8) ***

(O) Summit Boulders Even when your shoes are sticking to the pavement in the valley, you can always find cool temps at the top of the mountain. At 9000 feet, the Summit Boulders offer a respite from the brutal summertime heat in Tucson. In the early to mid ‘80’s numerous boulder problems were done in the vicinity of The Ravens and Rappel Rock. Many of these problems were toprope problems, and in the mid-‘90’s, several of these were bolted, and have thus become routes. The Murray Wall is an example of this. There are also a number of problems that can be bouldered without a rope. Directions: (Despite the length of these directions, these boulders are pretty easy to find.) Take Mt. Lemmon Hwy all the way to the top. Drive a couple miles past the ski area, and park just before the gate to the observatory, in a parking lot to the left. At the end of the lot, take the trail to the right, following the fence around some electrical equipment. Turn right up a wide dirt trail, then turn right to another trail that follows another fence around some more electrical equipment. After you clear the fence, turn left onto Mt. Lemmon Tr. #5. Follow this trail for about 10 minutes, until you see a gray corrugated tin building on the right with a “Restricted Area” sign on it’s front. (You can fill your water bottle up here at the spring, a pipe emitting water just below the road, unless it has been very dry.) About 250 yards further down the trail is the trail to Rappel Rock dropping down to the left. There is a wooden message post at the beginning of the trail. Approach time: 15 minutes to first boulder Problems: 30 feet past the trail heading to Rappel Rock is a 10 foot tall boulder 20 feet off the trail to the left. There is one excellent problem here, sit-starting on the slanted rail, climbing the rail up to the right, and lunging to the top (B1+). There are 2 easier problems to the left of this problem. Taking the trail down to Rappel Rock, turning left at the boulders 30 feet down the trail, and walking another 100 feet down is a 12 foot tall overhanging boulder with four nice problems, including a cool dyno problem going straight out the overhang. The landing is not the greatest. You’ll probably want a few pads or a rope. If, instead of cutting left, you continue down the trail to Rappel Rock, you will come to a saddle separating two huge gulleys a couple hundred yards down. There are three 20-25 foot tall boulders on the saddle, to the right of the trail. The uppermost of these three boulders has a large crack going up the side facing the trail. There are several toprope problems here, most of which are moderate. The hardest starts under the crack, then breaks out right over the bulge (B1). The second of the three boulders is the Skull Boulder. This has a few hard toprope problems. The hardest starts by jumping to the jug directly below the round block perched on the top (The Eyeball), goes left, then up (B2). The third boulder, 100 yards down from The Skull Boulder, has a vertical wall facing the trail. There are 6 good problems here (V0-V4), ending at the break 9 feet up, that can be bouldered with a pad. More toprope problems have been done to the right. There is a 3/8” bolt with a rusty old leper hanger on top.

Logistics Things to know •Mt. Lemmon is a fee area. You must pay a fee just past mile marker 5, which is $5 per day, or $20 per year. •Summer is monsoon season in Tucson. From mid-July through mid-September you can expect rain daily around 2:30. Don’t get caught on the mountain. The rains usually last for only an hour or so, though.

Camping There are five campgrounds on the Mt. Lemmon Highway. At the present time all but one are fee areas. (This is in addition to the fee to get up the mountain.) The one free campground is the Prison Camp Campground at mile point 7.3, the past site of a real prison camp. This is a very nice campground as far as free sites go, with clean toilets.

Rest days There are many ways to take in the stunning beauty of the southwest desert. No stay in Tucson would be complete without taking in tours of Sabino Canyon and the Desert Museum. There are a myriad mountain biking and hiking trails around Tucson. For the truly fit bikers, a round trip from Tucson to the top of Mt. Lemmon, down the backside to Oracle, and back to Tucson, will make for a good day’s ride. (Although, that probably isn’t much of a “rest” day.)

Eats When you think of Tucson you probably think of two things: gigantic cacti and Mexican food. You won’t have to look that hard to find good, cheap Mexican food. On everyone’s favorites list is Rosa’s, on the corner of Campbell and Ft. Lowell. A good meal can be had for under $10. (Just don’t have too much salsa before a climbing day!) The Big Dog himself ate at Mi Nidito on 2/25/99, another Mexican restaurant, at 1813 S. 4th Ave. Coffee: Le Buzz, in the ABCO shopping center at the corner of Catalina Hwy and Tanque Verde, has good coffee. This is also a good place to meet climbers on weekend mornings.

Showers and climbing gym The local climbing gym, Rocks and Ropes, at 330 South Toole Ave., ph#: (520)882-5924, has showers. A daily bouldering pass is $5. The Udall Center, on 7200 EastEast Tanque Verde Rd, has showers for $1.

Chipping Unfortunately, Tucson has more than it’s share of manufactured and altered holds. The vast majority of these were created in the 1980’s, when such activity was accepted by a certain group of climbers. Fortunately, the climbing community has learned some lessons, and it goes without saying that (these days, at least) altering the rock in any way is unacceptable. Furthermore, don’t make a bad situation worse by defacing manufactured holds.

Rating Conventions Problems are rated for quality on the 3-star system. Three stars is a classic; two stars is highly recommended; one star is worth doing. Take your chances on the no-star problems. (The exception is some of the problems given B-grades, where sometimes little is known about the problems, which might be good even though no stars are given.) The, by now, widely accepted V-scale is used to rate the difficulty of a problem. In a few cases, the old B-grades are given if the V-grades are not known. (B1 = hard ~V4-7, B2 = rarely repeated, B3 = unrepeated). These problems are a little piece of history. Many of these problems were done back in the day, and have had only a few ascents. Many (most?) of the problems graded B2 were done 20 years ago, and have yet to receive 2nd ascents! The V-scale is an open-ended scale, currently ranging from V0 to V15, V15 being about equivalent to a 5.15b route. The grade “VB” was coined in Bishop to denote “very basic,” and is used for problems roughly 5.8 and under. Bouldering grades, perhaps more so even than climbing grades, are highly subjective, and often meaningless. Since grades are inherently subjective, the best you can really hope for from a grading system is consistency. And, although we have made a great effort to be consistent in assigning grades to problems, they should only be taken as a general guide to the difficulty of a given problem. Don’t complain if an occasional problem is off by a grade. In an effort to be consistent, we present problems that represent the “standards” for the grades in the Tucson area. It is usually not possible to give a route grade to a boulder problem, so the conversion to YDS grades is very rough, and is only intended to give an idea of what V-grades represent. All grades are guaranteed to be 100% accurate, unless you happen to deviate from 5’9”, 140 lbs, with a +1 ape index, or it is a day ending in “y.”

YDS

V-scale

Recommended Tucson Area Problems

< 5.9 5.9/.105.10-/.10 5.10+ 5.115.11 5.11+

VB V0V0 V0+ V1 V2 V3

5.125.12 5.12+

V4 V5 V6

5.13a 5.13b 5.13c 5.13d 5.14a

V7 V8 V9 V10 V11

Enormous Face, Neo, Paul’s Wall Grand Slam, Gumby’s Warmup Stumpy, Matterhorn Bldr #3 Lichen Rail, For Those about to Rock, Supah Scoop The Banana, Cockring, Now, Scary Spice Back Scratcher, Genotype, Jibba Jabba, Pose Canyon Bleausard, Gleaming the Cube, The Ladder, Old Spice, The Seal Rapid Fire, Rubber Conspiracy, White Chocolate Flake, Simmer Down, Deforestation Barefoot Traverse, Broken Rubber, Half Slab, Hairpin Roof, The Slingshot I’ve Been Jacked!, Matterhorn Bldr #11, The Raisin Double Barrel, Mango bldr #8, The Road to Damascus Swamp Thingie Jewell Thief your next project?

River Boulder Three problems 2 minutes from the parking lot make this boulder well worth it. Directions: From the last parking lot, walk down the left side of the riverbed for about 2 minutes until you see a boulder down to your right with a roof problem going out big rails. Problems: 1. (V2)** Sit start. The steep roof problem on the right side. 2. (V3)* OTD. Start on jug in middle of downstream face. 3. (V4)** Unlikely left arête. Essentially one move: paste your feet on, then chuck for the jug.

AM/PM Wall Another great boulder for steep summertime pulling. In the shade in the morning. We note, also, that from this boulder, you can head down into the canyon for more boulders that have not been fully explored. Directions: Follow the trail just left of the river. When the trail forks to go either down the river or uphill, take the trail uphill. Follow the main trail as it goes into the second little canyon. (Don’t go up the first little canyon when the trail forks, but stay on the main trail.) After heading up the trail up the second canyon for about five minutes, you will pass a big switchback. 50 feet further along the trail you will cross over a 20-foot long slab. Hike about 100 feet from the end of the slab, then veer off the trail down and to the right. (Hopefully the cairns will still be there.) You can see the top of the wall from the main trail. After about 100 feet you will come to the wall. Cut right under it, and follow it for about 40 feet. Problems will be on your left. Look for a huge bucket toward the left end of the wall, which marks problem #2. Approach time: 15-20 minutes Problems: 1. V0 variations, 20 feet left of #2, up in a little alcove. 3 good variations: left, right, and straight up. 2. (V2)** On the left side of the boulder is a giant jug 4 feet off the ground. Down and right from the jug, 2 feet up, is a big rail. This problem starts on the rail, goes to the jug out left, and up. 3. (V2)** Start as for #2, go straight up. 4. (V3)* SD. Up the water streak just right of two trees, 10 feet right of #2. 5. Big Gulch (V7)*** Start with left hand on a big undercling just right of #4. Reach right to a big pinch, then climb out right onto the bulge, then up. 6. (V1)* 10 feet right of #5 the wall slabs out 4 feet up. Start on knobs just over lip, 5 feet up. 7. (V3)* Sit-start 15 feet right of #6, on jug rail 3 feet up, go left to crack. 8. project. Sit start a few feet right of #7, and go straight up. This problem was done, then a crucial foothold broke, and it hasn’t been repeated since. (V7?) 9. (V4)** 20 feet right of #8, to the right of a little gulley, on a face. Sit-start with right hand on a side-pull. Go up crimps, then dyno out right.

Mango Boulder This 30 foot long orange wall is one of the best in Tucson, and probably the best summer boulder in town. It is in the shade in the afternoon. The wall is blocky and steep; it overhangs from 10 to 45 degrees, and has the highest concentration of steep problems in Tucson. There are tons of holds on the wall, so in addition to the problems mentioned here, there are a plethora of eliminates to do. You are only as limited as your imagination.

Directions: From the last parking lot at the terminus of the road past Summerhaven, take the Aspen Trail up the hill. Follow the trail up the hill about 5 minutes, until it comes to the top of the first hill, and starts to flatten out. Continue along the trail for about thirty feet after it flattens out, then veer left off of the trail, before the trail turns right and heads downhill. Veer down and left for about 50 yards, until you come to a big fire pit, then cut down under the next boulder. This will bring you underneath the boulder’s face. If you have trouble finding it, from where the trail flattens out, hike directly downhill to the rim of the canyon, and then turn right, and hike (bushwhack) along the rim. The boulder is on the rim, with the face facing downhill toward the river. Approach time: 7 minutes Problems: (Note: All of the problems here are OTD if you top out on the slab. A fall off the slab would not be good. You can, however, drop off the lip at 10 feet, without incurring the disdain of too many climbers. Do what makes you happy. ) 1. (V2) * Far left of wall, in front of a tree. Climb straight over the bulge. 2. project. Start on jug, go left. 3. (V6) * Sit-start on jug, go straight up. 4. (V2) ** Sit-start in the big hueco, go straight up. 5. The Tongue (V2)* Start as #4, go right 3 feet, then up the crack. 6. (V1) * Start on jug 4 feet up, go straight up. Var 1. Go up 3 feet, then cut right past a sidepull (V3)**. Var 2. Start on #2, traverse to starting jug of #6, go straight up (V2)**. Var 3. Start on #2, traverse into Var 1 (V4/5)***. 7. (V4)* Sit-start a few feet left of #8, on good holds, and go straight up. 8. (V8)*** Start matched in the big undercling, and go straight up. Project. Traverse from #2 into #8 (V11?). 9. (V3)* The left angling crack. 10. Ten feet right of #9 are a couple of V0’s.

Cochise Stronghold OK, so Cochise isn’t in Tucson. But, it’s close enough! Known more for it’s spectacular long routes, there are some nice boulders here, including the purported “Midnight Lightning of Arizona” – the Fire Pit Problem. This is by no means an extensive guide to Cochise bouldering; it is just enough to get you started. Directions: Take I-10 southeast from Tucson, about 45 minutes, to the Dragoon exit #318. Go through Dragoon and head east about 7.5 miles from the post office, and turn right on Cochise Stronghold Road. Take this to its end, then turn right again into the Stronghold. Note: map not to scale

Silverbell Boulders Good, steep bouldering on volcanic tuff, reminiscent of the Happy Boulders. Once upon a time this area was the “outdoor gym” of the Tucson area. Before plastic on plywood became the preferred training venue, locals would train here, using the abundance of holds to make many fine eliminate problems. Not satisfied with the existing problems, a bunch of holds were manufactured in the 1980’s, on the steep face of the upper boulder, to make more problems. Note: The land these boulders are on is privately owned. Access may be an issue, so be especially careful to leave no trace. There may be development on this land in the future, so if you go here and find more soulless, cookie-cutter houses where the boulders should be, that’s why. Directions: From Tucson, take I-10 northwest to Avra Valley Road (12 miles from the Grant Road exit.) Take Avra Valley Road west, crossing under the freeway, and follow this road for 1.2 miles. Turn left onto a dirt road (Cement Plant Road), and follow this for 0.5 miles. Turn left here, onto Silverbell Road (there is no road sign at the intersection). Follow Silverbell Road, as it winds, for 0.8 miles, and park in a pullout on the right. The boulders are on the left side of the road. Approach time: 1 minute

(N) Aspen Trail Boulders The Aspen Trail boulders are great for summer bouldering, probably the best in town. A good summer day can be had by climbing at the AM/PM Wall in the morning, heading over to the Mango Boulder in the afternoon, and finishing the day off at the River Boulder. This will keep you in the shade all day.

(See the Wilderness of Rocks overview on page 37 for location of parking lot.)

Red Boulder

The Whale

1. Titty Twister (V5?) Sit start behind tree on left side of wall. Some holds have broken off of this chosspile. The holds that remain will break soon enough. 2. Moby Dick (V2) Start just right of #1, go left past a hold that will probably break, and up. 3. Nut Fuzz (V2)* Start as for #2, but exit right on slopers. (At least they won’t break.) 4. Stop the Presses (V2) Stop the madness. 5. 3 Dogs in a Hole (V3) Contrived and crappy.

6. The Whale (V1) Run-and-jump. You’ll probably want to keep running. 7. Mantle (V0)* Sneakers only, no climbing shoes allowed. 8. Credit Card (V6/9)* Sit start. Crank on the credit card sized hold. Basically one move. Originally V9, downgraded after a few flashes. It’s a hard move, but it is only one move. 9. project. A stupid, contrived traverse could be done here that would be very hard. 10. Seven Seas (V3)

Zester

1. Zester (V6)** OTD. Sit start in back of the little cave. The way the ground slopes away makes a fall off the lip exciting. Var. At the lip go straight up, avoiding holds out left (V8)*. 2. Armpit (V3)

This rarely climbed, single boulder is near Contzen Pass in the Tucson Mountains. It is an excellent boulder; the only bad part is that it’s about a mile from the road. You probably won’t see any chalk on this boulder, as it sees approximately one ascent every 3 years. But, if it’s too cold for Mount Lemmon, and you are tired of Gates Pass and Silverbell, this is another option. Directions: From I-10, at the north end of Tucson, take Ina Road west. After 2.8 miles, turn left onto Wade Road. Drive 3.1 miles from the turn onto Wade Rd., through the pass, and park near a “35 mph” sign. The boulder is about a mile away, at the base of the slopes below the cliffs to the northwest. It is not visible until about 100 yards away, but hard to miss if you walk near the base of the slopes. Look for a section of the cliff that is flat and lower than the rest of the cliff. The boulder is about 100 yards to the right of the rightmost part of this section, at the base of the slope. It is brownish-red, with a milky tan streak running down it’s left side, with a big crack in the middle. There is an old 3/8” bolt with a homemade hanger on the top. There are a bunch of other boulders to the east with a few problems, but nothing really that interesting. Problems: About 15 problems, V0-V9, with plenty of possibilities for eliminates. Some of the harder problems are these: 1. (B1) The obvious crack on the side facing the road. 2. (B1) Start just left of #1, with right hand on a big sidepull, and go up and left to the ledge. 3. (B2) Start a few feet right of #1, in a scoop, wander up and left to face.

4. (B1+) About 10 feet right of #1, follow the bulging arête. 5. (B1+) Start the same as #4, but go left to big gastons, then up. 6. (B2) Start on #3, and finish on #5. 7. (B2) Just right of the arête on #4, start on two miserable edges 8 feet up, lunge left and up, then go right and up.

Finger Rock Canyon There is one prominent 15 foot tall boulder on the Finger Rock trail. Nice hike. Directions: Take Swan Road north, until almost at the base of the mountain. Turn left (west) on Skyline Drive. After about a mile, turn right on Alvernon, and take this until you get to the Finger Rock Trailhead. The boulder is about 1! miles up the Finger Rock trail, on the right side of the trail, below a prominent red cliff on the left side of the canyon. It is impossible to miss as you hike up the trail. Problems: About a dozen problems, mostly moderate (VB-V2). The harder problems are these: (1) 15 feet left of the trail on the north side of the boulder (B1), (2) near the right end of the south face, just left of an obvious ledge, go straight up from good holds (B1).

Gates Pass The most popular boulders in Tucson, Gates Pass is a great place to get a few hours of bouldering in during the winter, and probably the best in town for moderate bouldering. It is 20 minutes from downtown Tucson. The lower boulders are also known as the “Broken Rubber Boulder,” and the upper boulders are also known as “Son of Broken Rubber Boulder.” If you see any idiots painting graffiti on the boulders, beat them mercilessly, and then report them to the police. Directions: Take Speedway blvd west until it becomes Gates Pass Road, and continue through the pass. (8.3 miles from I-10) Park on the left (the G6 lot) just before mile marker 1. You can see the boulders from the road. Approach time: 5 minutes

Lone Pine 1,3,6. projects 2. Lone Pine (V0) Left of pine. Start direct or to the right, up to huge Hueco, then top out. 4. North Face (V0) * OTD. Go up big jugs right of pine tree and topout. 5. Rapid Fire (V4) ** OTD. Far right of wall, up a shallow chimney. Technical moves to slab finish. It took a girl to finally unlock the sequence, and then was sent by everyone in rapid succession.

The Ruins

1. The Ruins (V2)* Sit start left. Follow sandy huecos right and up to lip. Jump off (needs a topout) 2. project (V11?) This is sweet. 3. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow (V3?) Up face right of cave, opposite slab. A key hold broke during the second ascent.

Solitude Boulder 1. Roof Traverse (V2)* Traverse in from under roof and top out right of roof.

2. Motherfucker (V4)** Sit-start a few feet right of huge roof. Traverse left on slopers, mantle out. 3. Milk It (V3) Start between boulder and SE arête. Traverse up and right on slopers, then topout. 4. project 6. Spank Through (V3) Straight up corner 7. Diesel Power (V4)* Start on undercling on far right face. Power up to roof and mantle.

The Cube

Circuits

1. Suede Shoe Blues (V2) Left arête. 2. Gleaming the Cube (V3) ** Start on left arête, climb unlikely face diagonally to top. 3. Ice Cube (V1) Right arête. 4. One of these Days (V0) Left face of Cube. Watch loose stuff! 5. Crunch ‘n Munch (V0) Downhill from Cube, up stacked boulders. Sit start.

Ghandi Slabs

1. Master of None (V3)* Far left line, start on tiny ledge, up to vertical seam and knobs 2. Chunnel (V1) Just right of Jack …, up to big Hueco and pockets (can also be done as a run-and-jump problem.)

3. Dike (V2)* 4. Wet Spot (V2)* Black streak right of dike and just left of tree. 5. Ghandi (V3) Right of Wet Spot, behind tree, straight up. 6. Stepping Stone (V1) Right of tree start on small ledge.

Half-Moon Wall 1. The Bat (V2)* Lieback feature behind pine tree in center of north face. Unusual movement.

The Lemon

1. The Lemmon (V2)* Start on good holds right of face, head straight up. 2. Dogs don’t Sweat (V2) Arete right of face. Start left of arête. 3. I Had a Picture Pinned to my Wall (V2)* Arete. Start right of arête. 4. The Seed (V0) On a boulder to the right of the Lemmon. Far right colorful arête above a bush

Muscle Shoals

The Mushroom

1. Muscle Shoals (V2)* Take obvious line up sandy left-facing dihedral.

1. Neo (5.8)*** OTD. Follow jugs into the wide crack on the right side.

Moderate: 2, 3, 4, 1, 7, 8, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 18, 23, 25 Advanced: 2, 1 (V2), 4, 7, 8, 5, 11 (SD), 12 (V4 & V5), 20 (V3), 20 (V4), 22, 18 (V3), 26, 24, 25

Lower boulders 1. (V2) * OTD. Start on the big underclings under arete, go left and up. Var. Go to the arête (V3)*. 2. Several OTD V0’s. The sit start in the middle is V6 (one move wonder) 3. VB* OTD. 4. (V0+)** Sit start with left hand on good flake just left of the arête. 5. Broken Rubber (V6) *** Sit start on the right side of the wall, and traverse left and up, past the big undercling. 6. (V8?) Start on two small crimps 5 feet high, a few feet right of the arête; the arête is off. Rumors of an ascent, but nothing confirmed. The arête itself is (V2); avoid left boulder. 7. (V0+)* The short arête.

8. (V1) ** Start matched in the big Hueco underneath the “X” crack. Avoid stemming. 9. (V0) Toprope. 10. (VB) Toprope. 11. (V1 or V2 sit-start)* OTD. The arête. Dangerous and scary. 12. (V4)* OTD. Start with both hands in the big Hueco a few feet right of the arête, go straight up a series of small crimps and sidepulls. Pictured on following page. (V5) ** Same start, but traverse right along the shelf to the end of the boulder, then mantel. 13. (V0)* OTD. The inside corner. 14. (V0) Mantels. 15. (V0-)* OTD. Big inside corner.

Upper boulders 16. (V0+)** Start on the right side of the boulder and traverse left into #17. (VB) Start just left of the arête. (VB)* Start on huge horizontal crack 10 feet left of arête, and follow big crack right and up. (V0-)* Go straight up from left side of huge crack.

17. (V1) * Sit-start in the big undercling, go straight up. (V0) from the standing start. 18. (V1) ** Traverse left to right. Var. Stay below the lip (V3)***. Pumper. 19. (V0) Sit start on the arête.

Many variations and eliminates have been done on the steep east side of the upper boulder. Here are the non-eliminate problems: 20. (V3)** OTD. Sit start on the obvious low jug on the east side. (V4)** Cut left 6 feet up, and traverse left to the end of jugs, and top out. (V0)** OTD. Standing start. 21. (V6)* Sit-start 3 feet left of #20, go left and up. Difficult for tall people to keep off the boulder behind. 22. (V5)** Sit start around the corner from #20, as far right as you can, on two small flakes. Traverse left into #20. 23. (VB)* The knife-edge arête. 25. (V0)* Start on two shallow 24. (V0)* Start on two shallow monos just right of arête, go straight monos 4 ft. right of arête, reach left up, avoiding jug out right. to jug, then right and up to hor. crack. 26. A few silly one-move roof probs.

Gunfight Boulder

Apocalip & Layaway Boulder

Several hard problems are found on this rarely climbed boulder. The reason it is rarely climbed is most likely because of the bushwhack up the hill through the Jumping Cholla to get to it. Some much needed trail work would make this excellent boulder much more pleasant. To get there, hike west from the lower boulder just around the first little hill, about 200 yards, until you can see a large boulder up the hill in a little gulley. It is lighter than the other boulders, and the biggest boulder on the hillside. A 3/8” bolt adorns the summit. There are many more problems on this boulder than those mentioned below; these are just the most obvious. 1. (B1) Start on cheater, with left hand on good face hold, right hand on small, low arête. Lunge up and left with right hand to top. Var. Start from ground with left hand in pocket, climb up to good face hold with left hand, then right to top (B1+) . 2. (B1) Traverse. Start with left foot on left wall, left hand on sharp flake sidepull, and right in 2 finger pocket. Climb to crux of #1, then lunge to good ledge 5 feet right. 3. (B1-) Same start as #1 (from ground). Keep both hands on the arête until it is possible to lunge to the top at end of #2. 4. (B1-) Traverse right to left. Start at down climb and traverse left into #3. 5. (B0) Toprope. From cheater, lunge from good right hand hold.

3. Thank You Sir (V2) Sit start in cave w/ feet on loose flakes, up punishingly sharp crystals. 4. East Arete (V1) East side of Apocalip, sit start with arête and mantle. 5. West Arete (V1)

1. Apocalip (V3)* Sit start under lip, mantle and follow crystal streak up. 2. Left of Cave (V2) Left of cave up arête.

6. Pocket (V2) Throw to pocket, stay in crack. 7. Layaway (V2) Straight up face using flake 8. Double Underclings (V3)* Underclings to undercling at lip, crank to top.

Bent Pine

Saguaro National Monument These boulders are not worth the hike just for the bouldering. However, if you would like to go on a nice hike, this is a good one. You can bring your climbing shoes, and do a few problems on the way. Directions: Take Kinney Road North past the Desert Museum. After a few miles turn right onto the Bajada Loop. Follow this 1 mile to the Hugh Norris trailhead. There are a few boulders with some moderate problems about ! mile up the Hugh Norris trail, left and down from the trail. Gates Pass at dusk © Monica Wang

5. Sap Muffin (V3) Left of lieback. 6. Trailside (V2)

1. Get Bent (5.8) Offwidth on trailside 2. Chubbier (5.9) Obvious high face right of roof. 3. Mushroom Mantle (V1) Mantle on small mushroom behind Bent Pine. 4. Flakes (V0) Obvious lieback on back side.

Black and Tan 1. Andy’s Dyno (V4)* OTD. Start far left on north face, dyno to good crimp, grovel your way up to a scary top out, or escape left. 2. Religious Streaker (V5)* OTD. First, say a prayer that the holds that remain on this crumbly piece of crap don’t break, then sit-start in the center of the north face, and go up edges & knobs to a deadpoint, and a highball topout. This would be an excellent problem if it wasn’t choss.

Tanque Verde Wash

Problem topos: (Boulders are arranged in alphabetical order, except for Lone Pine, which comes after The Mushroom. See overview maps for locations.)

AC/DC Wall

1. Bleausard (V3)** Start far left, go straight up dark slab. 2. Cocoa Pebble (V6) * Start far left and traverse right to sloper, topout in dark slab with tiny pebble. 3. Beating Around the Bush (V5) (Eliminate) Start just under left roof on unercling and head straight up using only sloping holds to lip, exit right to Dirty Deeds or Cocoa Pebble (undone) 4. Stiff Upper Lip (V2)* Straight up cracks/liebacks right of roof. 5. Highway to Hell (V2)* Start directly under baby pine and go straight up. 6. Dirty Deeds (V2) Up arête and traverse left to baby pine tree topout. Dirty. 7. Thunderstruck (V2) ** Start just left of the arête left climb right and up to jugs at the lip. 8. For Those About to Rock (V0+) ** Obvious layback crack in middle of wall. 9. Gumby’s Warmup (V0-)** Far right of wall. Bad name for a good problem. 10. Big Balls (VB) *** Jump from the boulder to the lip of (8). Mandatory.

A few great problems are found on the water polished granite boulders scattered around this wash on the east side of town. In the summer, as the boulders at Gates Pass are near their melting point, you can find tolerable temps here in the evening shade. The price you pay is a drive on a dirt road. Also a good winter bouldering spot. WARNING: Tanque Verde Wash is a popular nude sunbathing spot. If you are offended at the sight of nude, middle aged men, it is recommended that you give this area a miss. (Don’t get your hopes up -- you aren’t going to see any Playboy Bunnies™. However, young males will always be able to get a “spot.”) Directions: Take Tanque Verde Road (see overview of Tucson area) east. This turns into a dirt road 7.5 miles from Catalina Highway. (Tanque Verde becomes Redington after 4.5 miles; keep going straight.) Continue on the dirt road for 1.5 miles, and park at the pullout for Tanque Verde Falls. Take the trail heading southeast, down into the wash. Approach time: 8 minutes to The Sandbox.

Alien & Chubb 1. Mule Route (V0) Up left side of Chubb between Chubb and Alien. Alien boulder is off. 2. Big League Chew (V1) Low angle face on left side of wall with huecos. 3. Twelve-Foot Pole (V1)* Lichen covered thin face to lieback up middle of wall. A twelve foot pole was used to clean this face. Var. direct I’m Lichen It (V2). 4. Chubb (V1)* Techni-colored plates on right arête.

The Sandbox The centerpiece of Tanque Verde bouldering, The Sandbox is a sandy area enclosed on three sides by boulders, conspicuously dominated by a tall white boulder on the upstream side. Several problems have been done in The Sandbox. Problems: 1. Red Arete (V7)*** Just across from the big white boulder is a smaller boulder. This problem ascends the red arête on the right side. Start on a jug just left of the arête, go to the arête and up. 2. (V0-)* Go up the face a few feet left of #1, over the fine artwork. Just across from #1 is a hard problem on the big white boulder, starting on two crimps 6 ft up (B1+). To the left of this are a few hard high-ball problems. To the right of this are a few easy high-ball problems. A few problems were done on the big boulder across from the white boulder, on the overhang facing the wash, but some holds have broken. Some very hard problems might still go here. Across the wash from The Sandbox is a small, dark, rotten boulder where a bunch of idiots take their dogs to shit. Several problems have been done on the 45 degree overhang facing the wash. Starting low with hands on a jug 2 feet up, and going straight out is (V2)*. Watch your step. Down the wash about 150 yards from The Sandbox is a large block. There are a bunch of good problems in the vicinity of the block. Problems: There a few toprope problems on the stream side of the block. On the left side is a chimney. One of the best problems here goes up the arête formed by the left side of the chimney, avoiding the right side (B1). Across the stream from the block is a short, white wall. There are a couple of problems here, including an excellent left-to-right traverse; after passing the diagonal crack, stay low (B1+)**. Just downstream from the block, across a sandy wash, is a boulder with 3 great, unlikely problems: 1. Cockring (V1)*** On the upstream side, paddle your way up the big, sloping rail right and up. 2. (V5)** Around the corner from #1, sit-start on good holds, go up to sloping top-out 8 feet up. Make sure your ass is touching the ground when you start. 3. (V2)** The arête between numbers 1 and 2. Lovely footholds here. About 100 feet upstream from The Sandbox is a small boulder with a prow pointing toward the stream. The sit-start on the prow is (V4)**. The black and white striped slab just up from the prow has a few fun run and jump problems. About 100 yards upstream from The Sandbox, where the wash makes a big curve is a big boulder. On the side facing away from the stream is a classic V5; sit-start in the middle with left hand on a sidepull, right hand on an edge. A harder, and more painful, variation, pictured on the next page, starts to the right and traverses into the V5 (V7?). Around the corner to the right is a hard sit-start (B2), and on the side of the boulder facing the wash are a few more hard problems.

ÂŠ Andrew Kornylak

About 100 yards upstream from the boulder pictured above is a 15 foot tall boulder with a classic high-ball problem facing the stream; start in the middle and go straight up good holds to a sloping top-out (V4)***. Around the corner to the right are a few easier high-balls.

Another 200 yards or so upstream, where the wash makes another big curve, are the upper boulders. The first boulder you come to has a prow pointing downstream with an obvious problem on itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s downstream side. Problems: 1. (V3)** Sit-start on the overhang 3. (V5)* Same start, but traverse all facing downstream, on two big flakes the way around the boulder to just above a big shelf. Go straight up. before a big corner, then top out. 2. (V3)* Same start as #1, but 4. Just right of the corner is a slab traverse right a few feet to a jug, then with a fun no-hands problem. (V2?) go straight up the prow. Upstream from the boulder with #â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1-4 is a boulder on the right side of the wash with several good problems. The side facing away from the wash makes a little corridor with another boulder on the side of the hill, where all sorts of nasty goings-on take place. 5. (V0-)* On the upstream side of the 8. (V2)** Around the corner to the boulder, start on a block in the middle left, 12 feet left of #7, inside the of the wall, climb out right, then up. corridor, start a couple feet right of 6. (V0)** Start the same as #5, but jugs, with right hand on a small go left to a big flake, then up. crimper and left hand on a small 7. (V2)** Start directly below the gaston, 6 ! feet up. start of a big ramp angling left. Climb 9. (V7?) Start several feet right of #8, to the ramp, then follow the ramp, then and traverse into this problem. cut right. Var. Sit-start a few feet left, 10. (V2)* Start on jug to the left of and climb to the ramp (V4)*. #8 and lunge directly to the top.

La Milagrossa Canyon

Overview maps:

La Milagrossa is a very popular canyon for sport climbing, especially in the 5.10-5.11 range. There are a few boulders worth mentioning in this canyon – enough for a good afternoon’s worth of bouldering. This is also a great place for bouldering and climbing in the same day. Note: In order to access this area you must pass by several houses and walk along private roads. Access has been an issue in the past, and could be again if we are not very careful. Pay very careful attention to the impact you have on the area (as always!), and always be friendly to the locals. Directions: Driving: Go as if going to Mt. Lemmon, along Catalina Highway until almost the base of the mountain. Just before the base of the mountain, turn right on Snyder Road. Follow Snyder east for 1.2 miles, passing Soldier Trail after 0.9 miles, and entering a divided portion of Snyder Road. Turn left on Suzenu Avenue and drive 0.2 miles to the end of the street. Park off the pavement in a legal area that won’t upset the residents. Hiking: Walk through a metal gate at the northeastern end of Suzenu Ave. Follow the flat, private road to the east for about ! miles, aiming for an octagonal white house on a hill at the end of the road. When the road turns left, go straight through a gate, then cut left up an old road to the right (south) of the house. Follow this old road for about 300 yards as it climbs over a hill then drops down into a large drainage (Agua Caliente Wash). Turn left into the wash, and follow the wash for about 1/3 mile (10-15 minutes) until you come to a flat area underneath the cliffs with the climbs. The Mila Vanilla Boulder is the obvious 15 foot tall boulder directly underneath the climb Community Service. Approach time: 30 minutes

(M) The Wilderness of Rocks

This is one of those areas that have been “discovered” many times over. Several boulderers have found the area, some sampling a few problems here and there, and dismissing the rest, some spending numerous days in the area, climbing everything. There are a ton of boulders here, which would make it a great bouldering area. The only problem is that it is fairly spread out. Expect to do a fair bit of hiking between boulders in order to get a lot of problems in. The rock here is quite varied. There are steep problems and slab problems, polished granite and vertical beach, bulletproof rock and choss. However, it must be said that most of the problems are slightly overhanging to slab, and most of the problems involve pulling on at least a crimper or two. Most of the problems that have been done here are in the V0-V3 range, so climbers at this level will have a great time. There are also enough moderates and desperates to keep the beginner and the hone-master entertained, at least for a few days. As of summer 2001 there are about 100 established problems, plus several hard projects. There are hundreds more boulders that remain unexplored and/or unclimbed. Continue hiking into the Magic Forest and beyond and you will find a seemingly endless supply of boulders. The only question is how long you are willing to hike to get to them. The “long” hike and “rugged” terrain seems to keep people away, but anybody with the lung capacity to endure a flat 1 mile hike, and a bit of schlepping, will be rewarded with quality pulling in a cool pine forest setting. Directions: Take Mt. Lemmon Highway to its terminus just past Summerhaven. There are parking lots and camping areas here. At the turnaround, behind the restrooms, take the Marshall Gulch trail for 1.2 miles through cool pine forest to a signed trail intersection. Take the trail marked “Wilderness of Rock” for a few hundred yards. About 30 yards past a right turn you will see the AC/DC Boulder about 10 yards off the trail to your left, on top of a little hill. Approach time: 30-40 minutes to the AC/DC Boulder.

Mila Vanilla Boulder Two great problems on this boulder, and a flat, sandy landing make the hike worth it.

1. (V0+)* The left arête. 2. (V3)* Sit-start with left hand on an edge 3 feet right of the arête, 4 feet up. 3. White Chocolate (V4)** Sit start with left hand on a big side-pull, right hand on a big edge. The crux is the topout. 4. project (V10?)

5. I’ve been Jacked! (V7)** Sitstart with left hand on a small crimp 4 feet up, right hand on a sloping edge 4 ! feet up. Four hard moves off holds that are all facing the wrong way. Bring your body tension. Mike Stevenson is pictured below, about to finish this problem off. 6. (V1)* The bulge on the right side. Start with hands on holds 6 feet up. There are also a few V0 slabs on the back side, and warm-ups on the back side of the boulder in front of Mila Vanilla. The next best boulder in this canyon is located about 150 yards up canyon from the Mila Vanilla boulder. Scramble up until you come to a flat sandy wash, where the walls of the canyon are at their closest point. There is a 15 foot tall boulder on the left side with 5 problems, V0-V4. The best is Hatt-Baby (V3)**, the sit-start to the arête in the middle; go right and up.

Topos of individual boulders follow the overview maps.

(K) Rose Canyon Entrance The Rose Canyon entrance boulders have some amusing problems on some interesting boulders, in a nice little forest. Definitely worth a visit.

Mount Lemmon Highway

Mt. Lemmon is a world class climbing area, a cornucopia of rock climbing. Despite this, it is not known for its bouldering – until now. Most of the bouldering in Tucson is on Mt. Lemmon, the only problem being that it is spread out over a large area. Directions: From downtown Tucson, take Speedway Blvd. east to Wilmot. Turn left on Wilmot, which then becomes Tanque Verde. Continue on Tanque Verde as it curves right, for a couple of miles. Turn left on Catalina Highway, and take this for 4 miles to the base of the mountain. Catalina Highway becomes Mt. Lemmon Highway as it heads up the mountain.

Directions: Just down and around the corner from the San Pedro Vista pullout is a scree slope downhill. Follow the edge of the scree down the hill, staying right of the drainage, for about 100 yards until you see a small collection of 15 foot tall boulders. These boulders can also be reached from the first set of picnic tables on the right side of Rose Canyon road; walk up the drainage right of the outhouse for 150 yards, toward the highway. A bit hard to find, but when you find them you will know it; they are the biggest boulders in the area. Approach time: 10 minutes. Problems: 1. (V3)* Arete 6. (V2)* The corner in the middle of 2. (V4)** The slab. Avoid the arête. the boulder 3. (V0) The warm-up. 7. (V2)* The face 4 feet right of #6. 4. (B1+)** Start on slanted flake, go The crux is the topout. left to crack. 8. (V3)* The arete. Start with right 5. (B1+)** Start on slanted flake, go hand on a small edge 5 ft up, left right to seam, and up. Var. Go hand on arête at same level. straight up, avoiding the seam (B2). 9. (V4)** Stem problem.

Yellow Brick Boulder 1. Put ‘em in the Basket, Henry (V0+ or V1 sit-start) * Arete. 2. Ding Dong, the Witch is Dead (V3) * 3. Gotta have my Pops (V1) Thin holds straight up. 4. Thumbin’ for a Hitch (V1) Thin move, up rail.

5. Ripple Nipper (V2) * Sit start on corner, move right. 6. undone 7. They Killed Mike Kinney (V1) 8. Why O Y (V4) * Sit start. 9. Supah Scoop (V0+) ** OTD. Killer high-ball slab climbing up the corner in the middle of the face.

Frumunda 13. Paul’s Wall * Several variations (VB-V1). 14. (V2)* Sit-start on the arête. 15. Thrown Unda the Bus (V1)* Sit-start far back under small overhang on flakes. Var 1. From the starting holds, reach left to a ledge and go up (V3)**. Var 2. Go right using big holds (V1). 16. Ruby Slopers (V2) * Start on sloped ledge.

Mt. Lemmon Highway (overview and scattered problems) (A) Hairpin Roof (V6) *** At the hairpin turn area (mp 0.5) there is an obvious roof problem on the trail heading up the gulley, about 100 feet off the road. The V6 starts on the left side and goes out the big rails. A variation starts the same and cuts right past a crimper (V8). The problem to the right has yet to see an ascent (V10?). (B) Molino Canyon. Located below the It Cliff in Molina Canyon are a few small boulders with about 20 problems in the VB-V3 range, mostly at the lower end of those limits. There is one hard toprope problem on the big triangle boulder (B1). Limited potential, but a few hours worth of fun, moderate climbing in the winter, or after a day at the It Cliff. (C) Jailhouse Traverse (V6) ** At Jailhouse Rock, (see Eric Fazio-Rhicard’s Squeezing the Lemon) start under Crime and Punishment and traverse right to the start of Sentenced to Hang. Incidentally, adding this traverse makes Sentenced to Hang 5.13a. There are also several fun dyno problems here toward the left end of the traverse. (D) Weeping Wall. This is an excellent gently overhanging wall, but rarely climbed. It is almost out of place on Mt. Lemmon; it has a unique feel, almost like sandstone. To get there, park at the pullout at mp 9.4 on the left. About 30 feet up the road is a little gulley up the hill. There are two 10-12 foot tall, black and tan cliffs in the gulley a hundred yards up the hill; the Weeping Wall is the upper one. You can see the cliffs from the road, if you look up the gulley. The problems can be bouldered with a few pads and attentive spotters. For toproping, an old bolt of dubious trustworthiness is located 20 feet back from the lip. There are at least five good problems: (1) Pink Streak (B1) Follow the thin crack in the obvious pink streak; (2) (V2)* The shallow gulley just left of the pink streak; (3) Diagonal (B1+) Start several feet left of the gulley at a seam diagonalling up and left on the black, overhanging wall; (4) Start a foot left of #3 with an undercling/sidepull for the right hand, go left and up; (5) Start about 10 feet left of #4 on some thin sidepulls. (E) Barefoot Wall. This 25 foot tall, overhanging wall is located just above the road at mp 9.6 (about 200 yards down from the Green Slabs), obscured by trees. Five topropes (V4-V8). More like routes than boulder problems. (F) Peanut Boulders. Just past the General Hitchcock Campground, at mp 12.1, above the road, are several boulders. Lots of boulders, few worthwhile problems. Not recommended.

Miles Kunkel on the Whale Boulder in the Wilderness of Rocks © Andrew Kornylak

(G) Windy Point. Windy Point is home to over 300 routes, and a few boulder problems. A few crumbly roof problems can be had by hiking from the end of the guard rail out to the end of East Windy Point Ridge. The best problem at Windy Point is the Barefoot Traverse (V6) ***, so named because Bob Murray claims the problem is “much easier barefoot.” (!) To get there, hike from the aforementioned roof, right along the rock, to a trail leading downhill. Follow this for a hundred yards to Nancy’s Thumb Tower, a 30 foot tall perched block. The traverse is on the back (north) side of the tower. Start on the leftmost jug and traverse right on rails 6 feet up, until you top out under the 5.4. Traversing right to left is easier (~V4). On the same boulder, starting low and right on the obvious jug, and coming straight out is V2**. Harder eliminates have been done coming out the middle of the boulder. There is one hard dyno starting below a small bush on good holds near the middle of the traverse, and lunging to the jug at the bush (B2). (H) Zschiesche Boulder. Another neglected boulder with good problems. From the pullout at mp 15.1, walk 100 feet up the road to the first gulley on the left, and follow it to a conspicuous, 15 foot tall boulder on the ridgetop. Several problems are found on its overhanging north and west faces, the most difficult being the arête between the two faces. Fun climbing on big holds. (I) Matterhorn Boulder, Secret Gulley, and Galapagos Gulley. See topos on following pages. (J) Rose Canyon Campground Boulders. See topos page 31. (K) Rose Canyon Entrance. See topo page 35. (L) Vista Boulder. This is a single, 8 foot tall, 45 degree overhanging boulder with at least 4 good problems on it. There is enough here for a good couple hours’ worth of bouldering. To get to it, park at the San Pedro Vista Overlook parking lot (mp 17.6), and follow the trail on the right side of the parking lot to the top of the hill (about 5 minutes). Stay on the trail, tending left, and as you come over the top of the first hill and start heading down you will run into the boulder, with the 45 degree overhang facing the road (west facing). This is a great place to go solo if you can’t find a spotter because it is short, the landing is flat, and there are lots of holds to make up problems on. The best problem here is Jibba Jabba (V2)**; sitstart on the right side of the west face, with left hand on a sidepull, and right hand on a block. I pity the fool who doesn’t hike up to do this problem… (M) Wilderness of Rocks. See topos page 36. (N) Aspen Trail Boulders. See topos page 45. (O) Summit Boulders. See descriptions page 48.

Yellow Brick Boulders Just off the trail to the crag The Wall of the Marching Munchkins is a small collection of boulders. Despite their uninspiring appearance… . Well, let’s be honest – they look like crap. However, there are some surprisingly fun problems here! This is a great place to take beginning boulderers, as there are many fun, moderate problems to do, and enough to keep the hard men and women entertained. Directions: (See overview on page 31.) Follow the slab above the Ramada 2 parking lot, to the obvious trail heading northwest. Follow this for about 10 minutes, until you walk over a large dead tree on the trail, and walk in between a few boulders. 50 feet further along the trail you will pass over a 30 foot long slab. The Clothesline Boulder is about 100 feet past the end of this slab, on the left.

Clothesline Boulder 1. Dirty Laundry (V1) * Sit start on ledge, go straight up. 2. Clothesline Traverse (V2) ** Sit start, traverse left on rail, and top out on #4. 3. Shitstain (V0)* Straight up 4. Hung out to Dry (V3) * Start on jug 2 feet up, go straight up.

5. No War (V5)* Right of arête. Start with left hand on crappy ass undercling. 6. Superbird (V0+) * 7. Moons over My Hammy (V0) 8. Grand Slam (V0-)* 9. Downy Fresh Traverse (V0)* Sit-start, traverse left, and top out on #8.

10. Traverse either way. 11. (VB-V2) variations 12. Sour Tower * Start underneath. 3 var’s: Go right (V0+); Go up arête (V1); The left face (V3).

Amphitheater Boulder This 15 foot tall boulder is in the Rose Canyon amphitheater, at the end of Rose Canyon road. A plethora of eliminates have been done on this boulder, many of which are difficult to describe. We note also, that even though some of these problems are “highball,” the landings are flat, and a crash pad and attentive spotter makes them relatively safe. Problems: 1. (V0+) * The crack on the short (east) side. The crux is the topout. 2. (V2) ** OTD. The easiest way up the north face (facing the bleachers). Go up over the bulge on big holds. 3. (B1) * OTD. Start a few feet right of #2, with left hand on a big sidepull just left of the northwest corner, and go straight up, avoiding climbing onto #2. 4. The Ladder (V3) *** OTD. Start the same as #3, but climb right onto the west face, and then up to an exciting topout. 5. Harder possibilities exist to the right of #4.

(I) Matterhorn Boulder, Secret Gulley, & Galapagos Gulley

Bob Murray described three cool eliminates just around the corner to the right from #1, ending at the big horizontal crack 10 feet up: Act I (B1+) Start on the good holds 6 feet up. Go straight up, using a tiny layback a couple feet above the starting holds. Eliminate the good fingertip hold a foot or two up and right from the starting holds. Act II (B2) Same as Act I, but eliminate the tiny layback (i.e. from the starting holds reach directly to the fingertip hold a foot below the big horizontal crack.) Act III (B2) From the starting holds lunge to the big horizontal crack.

Ramada Overhangs Before the amphitheater parking lot is the Ramada 2 picnic area. Above the parking lot, on top of the hill to the north are two 15-foot tall boulders. Many difficult and bold problems are possible here. The best problem here is at the northeast corner: Pose Canyon (V2)** starts on rails 6 feet up, and heads right and up.

Overviews of the Secret Gulley and Matterhorn Boulder follow.

Matterhorn Boulder This is the most popular boulder on Mt. Lemmon, and for good reason. Easy access, a nice, flat landing, and 16 good problems from V0 to V10 make this one of the choice destinations in the area. According to Bob Murray, the Matterhorn Boulder and the Amphitheater Boulder in Rose Canyon are “perhaps the best boulders in the Tucson area.” Directions: Take the Mt. Lemmon highway to mile marker 15.8, and park in the pullout on the left. Cross the road to the east. Just left of the road-cut, take the trail to the right, heading up the little hill. The Matterhorn Boulder is the big square boulder shaped like a ship’s prow on top of the hill, 100 ft. off the road. Approach time: 1 minute (overview and descriptions on following page)

(J) Rose Canyon Campground There are several boulders in the area around the end of Rose Canyon Road. There are two ways to get to this area. You can enter the campground at mp 16.9, pay the $4 picnic fee, and take the road to its terminus at the amphitheater parking lot. Or, if you would like to avoid the fee, and you don’t mind driving on a rough dirt road, follow these directions: Take Willow Canyon Road (a dirt road) at mp 16. Start your mile counter when you turn in. Take the first right down hill. There is a "No Outlet" sign after you turn. Follow the road through some curves, as it goes through a creek bed. After 0.6 miles from the highway, the road curves right, where you will see a sign with white numbers on green reading “9801” in front of a house. Take the first left after the curve. From the “Dead End” sign, follow the road for 0.4 miles. You will see a brown transformer on the right, and parking/campsites on both sides of the road. Park in the next pullout after the transformer, on the right, and take the trail on the north end of this pullout. This will take you to Rose Canyon campground in about five minutes.

1. (V0) ** The northwest arete. Start on horn 8 ft. up. 2. (V0+)* Left side of west face 3. (V0)** Middle of west face. 4. (V2) * Left side of the arete 5. (V2) ** The southeast arête. 6. (V3) * Start with left hand on the slanted side-pull 3 feet right of the corner, and right hand on an edge 4 ! feet up. 7. (V8) Sit-start on two small crimps in the middle of wall. Exceedingly sharp and painful. 8,9. Flake (V5) ** Start matched in the flake 4 ! ft. left of the arete. Go either straight up or right and up; both are V5. The right variation is classic, but painful. Var 1. From the flake lunge to an edge up and left, skipping the first crimp (V6)*.

Var 2. From the flake, reach right to the arête, then go to the little horn with your left hand (V6)**. 10. (B2)** Climb the overhanging arête until you can reach a hold out left on #9. No 2nd ascent? 11. (V7)*** OTD. Start just right of the arête, and follow the big seam up to crux below the lip. 12. (B1+)* OTD. Start same as #11, follow the smaller seam right & up. 13. Jewel Thief (V10) *** OTD. The direct start to #12. Start on a jug 2 feet off the ground, and go straight up to a big lunge to the top. A tree theatens the “family jewels” of anybody who falls off the dyno to the top. No 2nd ascent? (There is a toprope anchor for #’s 11, 12, and 13.)

Just down the hill to the north of the Matterhorn Boulder is a boulder with a few finger shredding problems on it’s downhill side: (1) Start about one foot right of a small inside corner facing left at the base of the boulder (B1); (2) Start a couple feet right of #1, go straight up (B1); (3) Start a couple feet right of #2, on the small outside corner, go straight up (B1).

Galapagos Gulley Those willing to hike another 10 or 15 minutes from the Secret Gulley into the next gulley over will be rewarded with some steep boulders in a nice forest setting. The boulders here are not as concentrated as in the Secret Gulley, but the rock is generally less abrasive, and the problems steeper. Two boulders are described here, but there are more problems scattered around the gulley, up from the Simmer Down Boulder.

Simmer Down Boulder (See overview on page 21.) From the Ammo Boulders, hike east until over the ridge line, then head down and right. The Simmer Down Boulder is at the bottom of the hill, about 200 yards from the Ammo Boulders, and is the largest boulder in the immediate area. There is a little tree growing out of the top. Problems are on the east side, and cannot be seen when you approach the boulder, until you get around to the east side. 1. Simmer Down (V5) *** Sit start on 60 degree overhanging east face, with right hand on a gaston and left hand on an edge. Hit the first jug, then go left and up, avoiding the jug out right. Pictured at right. 2. Now (V1) ** Sit start on the jug, and follow jugs right and up. Var. Campus. 3. (V3) * Around right corner from #2. Start on jug, go right and up. © David Branson Var. Start as for Simmer Down, traverse into start of #3, top it out (V5)*

Mother Boulder This is the biggest boulder in the Galapagos Gulley. Hike straight (east) across the gulley from the Simmer Down boulder, and down a bit, you can’t miss it. So far only the east side of this huge boulder has been developed. Problems are described from left to right. 1. Phenotype (V2 or V4 sit-start) ** OTD. Climb the southeast arête, then quiver your way up the slab. 2. The Fittest (V7)** OTD. Sit start with right hand on a block 3 feet right of the arête, 4 feet up. Go up and right, avoiding the jugs on the arête. 3. Genotype (V2) ** OTD. The standing start to #2. Take the obvious jug line straight up. Be careful of loose stuff at top. 4. Bee-ouch (V4) ** OTD. Sit start with left hand on a pinch 7 feet right of the arête, and right hand on a gaston two feet up. Go up and left, and join #3. 5. project (V10?) The steep rib in the middle of the wall. 6. (V5) * Sit start matched in a crimper 10 feet right of rib.

The Secret Gulley The Secret Gulley has the highest concentration of high quality boulder problems in the Tucson area. It is one of the very few areas in Tucson where you can do fairly long circuits at a consistent difficulty level. Discovered (rediscovered?) in 2000, this area would most likely never have been found – and certainly never would have been developed – had it not been for a fire a few years ago that burned off most of the manzanita that blanketed the area. The rock here can be rough, but if you like Joshua Tree, you will probably like the Secret Gulley. There is a good variety of problems here, and plenty more to be done by those with the strength and the tolerance for pain.

Directions: (See overviews on pages 21 and 22.) From the Matterhorn Boulder, head south, dropping down over the ridge 20 feet south of the Matterhorn Boulder. If the monsoon hasn’t washed them away, a trail marked by cairns will take you to the Secret Gulley. Once you drop down about 40 feet you will come to a ridge-line separating two gulleys. The Secret Gulley is the gulley to the left. Follow the ridge about 100 yards until you run into a boulder, then make a sharp left and drop into the main area of the Secret Gulley. Approach time: 10 minutes Circuits Intermediate: Lichen Rail (V0+), Bitch Root (V1), The Seal (V3), The Banana (V1), Little Man Traverse (V3), Stumpy (V0), Snail Traverse (V2), Reach Around (V3), Old Spice (V3), Sideshow Mel (V3), Pooper Scooper (V2), Matterhorn boulder: #1, #6, #5, #4, #2, #3 Advanced: (Matterhorn boulder: #2 (V0+), #1 (V1), #4 (V2), #5 (V3), #6 (V3), Flake (V5)), The Seal (V3), Ditch Digger (V5), The Slingshot (V6), Open Book (V4), Crystal Meth (V2), Scary Spice (V1), Deforestation (V5), Panda Arete (V5), Reach Around (V3), Old Spice (V3), Rubber Conspiracy (V4), Pleasure Box (V4), Pooper Scooper (V2), Smokin’ Crack (V5) Expert: Stumpy (V0), Snail Traverse (V2), Reach Around (V3), Old Spice (V3), Rubber Conspiracy (V4), The Road to Damascus (V8), Half Slab (V6), Double Barrel (V8), Swamp Thingie (V9), Deforestation (V5), Panda Arete (V5), The Slingshot (V6), Open Book (V4), Ditch Digger (V5), The Seal (V3), The Raisin (V7), Matterhorn boulder: Flake (V5), #6 (V3), #5 (V3), #4 (V2)

Snake Boulder: 24

The Secret Gulley

1-3. projects (V7-8?) 4. Smokin’ Crack (V5) * Sit start with right hand in the crack on the left side of the boulder. Good dyno problem. 1. Crytal Meth (V2) * Start on the right side of the west face, on holds at the lip. 2. Scary Spice (V1, or V5 sit-start) ** OTD. Middle of the west face. One very strong climber flashed the V5 sit-start with ease, but backed off the V1. 3.a. Deforestation (V5) ** OTD. Start on the flake 8 feet right of the arête, go left to the arête and up. 3. Panda Arete (V5) ** OTD. Start with left hand on an edge 6 ft up on the left side of the arête, and right hand on a crimp 8 ft up on the right side of the arête. (Bear Hug Arete was already taken.) 4. Swamp Thingie (V9) ** The area testpiece. Match on the edge on the overhanging wall, 4 feet left of the arête, fire to the lip and mantle. Var. Start matched on the second hold of the V9, and finish the mantle (V3)*. 5. Slappin’ Time (V3) * Start on the left side of the arête, with right hand in a big sidepull. 6. (V0-V2) variations.

Swamp Boulder

Thriller Boulder There are a few hard projects on the south face.

Warm Down Boulder 1. project (V12?) 2. Shit (V5) Start on two sidepulls 3. (V0-V2)* Several variations and starts. 4. (V4)** OTD. Sit-start on the arête, go right and up the face.

5. Several moderate problems, 15-20 feet long. 6. project (V10?) 7-9. projects

Boulder descriptions follow, in alphabetical order.

The Pebbles

Ammo boulders

These are the small boulders in the wash. 1. (V0+) Sit-start. 4. (V0) 2. The Banana (V1) ** The arête. 5. (V2) * Sit-start 3. (V1) * The scooped face.

1. Double Barrel (V8) ** On the north side of the boulder, sit start with left hand on the crimp, right hand on the rounded block. 2. (VB) 5. (V0-V4) variations 3. (V2) * Start on the slanted rail. Shin 6. (V0) Short face. guards might be called for. 7. (VB or V0+ sit-start) The 4. (V0) The little scoop. crack on the right side.

The Satellites

Buttermilk Boulder This boulder is cut by several seams on its south face, reminding us of some boulders in the Buttermilks. A good boulder for warming up. 1. Snail Traverse (V2) * Traverse 3. (V3) * The seam just right of #2 the lip left to right, toping out over 4. (V5) The seam four feet right of #3 the jug on the right. 5. Stumpy (V0) * Start with right 2. Back Scratcher (V2) * The hand on a big sidepull 8 feet up. leftmost problem. Up through the trench. The crux is keeping your back off the rock behind you.

1. The Slingshot (V6) *** The undercut bulge. Sit start with right hand low in the seam, left hand on the lowest part of the sidepull out left. Two moves to get off the ground, then a big slap to a big sloper. Var. Add one thrutchy move by starting matched in the seam down low (V7). 3. The Open Book (V4) ** Looks like an upside down open book. Start low on the left side. Avoid the left arête. 5. Monica’s Problem (V2) Start on the right side, with right hand in the seam.

Enormous Boulder

Eric Richardson on The Slingshot

Seal Boulder

1. The Seal (V3) ** Sit start in the seam on the south side of the boulder. 2. The Raisin (V7) ** Start matched on the biggest edge, just left of center of the wrinkled face, about 5 feet up. Pictured at left. 3,4. projects

1. Bitch Root (V1) Start on the rail. Go right and up. 2. Bee Bop (V1) * Mantle the rail and jump to the top. 3. Lichen Rail (V0+) * Start on the right part of the rail. Go left and up. 4. Ditch Digger (V4) ** Start on lower level, with right hand on the big sidepull. Avoid the arête. 5. Enormous Face (5.7 R) * 6, 7. projects

Andrew Kornylak on Ditch Digger

Felch Boulder 1. Felcher (V2) Sit start in the slanted slot. The worst problem in Tucson, if not the world. 3,4. projects (V8-10?) toprope anchors are in place …

2. Old Spice (V3) *** OTD. The southeast arête. Start standing on the boulder next to the arête, and pinch your way up sweet arête to a very committing (but fairly safe) move. (Pictured on back cover.)

Mini Half-Dome: Resembling its Yosemite namesake, this boulder features one of the best slab problems around. 1. The Road to Damascus (V8) ** Start matched on the jug 4 feet right of the southeast arête, and traverse the lip right past the tree stump, mantle and top out. 2. Rubber Conspiracy (a.k.a. Mini-Karma) (V4) ** Same start as #1. Go right 4 feet, then up over the bulge. Rumour has it that the left shoe is optional – maybe even a hindrance – for this problem. 3. Sideshow Mel (V3) * Start on the right side of the face, go to the arête and up. Balance. Var 1. Sit-start the arête (V5)*. Var 2. Start on the arête (V0+). 4. Half Slab (V6) *** The middle of the south face. Ultra-classic slab moves on miniscule holds. It feels good … until you get to the hard part. (Photo on inside front cover.) 5. Sideshow Bob (V6) ** The left arête. Sloping sidepulls and technical liebacking. It looks so easy…