All Th AT Gli TT ers Once O ne O f the richest cities in the wO rld, Bendig O still has it in spades. By Rode R ick e ime, photog R aphy t ou R ism Victo R ia australiancountry.com.au | 8786 | australiancountry.com.au ESCAPE ROUTES
L ocated on the traditional lands of the Dja Dja Wurrung people, Bendigo rapidly grew from a ramshackle tent city in 1851 following the discovery of alluvial gold into one of the richest cities in the world. By 1890, there were numerous ornate public and private buildings, including the Town Hall and Art Gallery, as well as several pubs and banks. The gold rush delivered some 700 tonnes of bullion to the Empire, the equivalent of $54 billion in today’s money. In a nod to the city’s sophisticated past, exquisitely preserved electric trams still ply a four-kilometre track through the centre of town linking key tourism sites and delivering enriching commentary. At the westernmost end of the line is one such location, In a nod to the city’s sophisticated past, exquisitely preserved electric trams still ply a fourkilometre track through the centre of town linking key tourism sites and delivering enriching commentary
these pages: Left to right: Located in the centre of town, Rosalind Park is a welcome respite from urban life; grand Victorian architecture is a fixture of the Bendigo streetscape.
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Our accommodation is in one of Bendigo’s prominent heritage buildings, now known as Hotel Ernest Bendigo, ideally situated within a splash from the Alexandra Fountain, itself a signature and central landmark of Bendigo. A collaboration between partners David Cook-Doulton and Martin Shew, the former Commercial Banking Company of Sydney building, dating from 1864, is enjoying a renaissance as a very cool 10-suite boutique hotel, the name being derived
from David’s much-loved paternal grandfather. Following the duo’s success with the Hotel Vera in David’s hometown of Ballarat, the Ernest was a natural progression, drawing on the lessons and mistakes learnt when converting and restoring that 19th-century mansion. The hotel, which recently opened in March of this year, is also home to a restaurant run in partnership with hatted chef Derek Boath. He has an enviable pedigree, has worked with David and Martin in Ballarat and currently runs the ultraexclusive, 16-seat venue, Underbar, in Ballarat. The old vault, now a tomb-quiet, tasteful breakout space, could tell lurid tales of the goldrush days when much of the city’s gold would have passed through these doors. The City of Greater Bendigo covers an area of 3000 square kilometres with a population of about 125,000 and takes in the nearby towns of Castlemaine, Harcourt, Maldon and Heathcote, among others. It is embraced by around 40,000 hectares of reserves, forests and parkland, and is among the fastest-growing regional centres in the country, predicted to top 150,000 inhabitants within 20 years. Bendigo’s proximity to Melbourne — it’s an easy two-hour drive from CBD to CBD — works distinctly in its favour as a weekend-away destination for urban escapees. Our three-day road trip in the region barely scratches the
the Central Deborah Mine. Here visitors can don a hard hat and descend more than 60 metres into the underground labyrinth to get a feel for life as a miner while an experienced guide describes the workings of the original machinery that delivered nearly a tonne of gold during its 15-year lifetime.
Also in the heart of town is the Golden Dragon Museum, billed as the Chinese cultural centre of Australia. Opened in 1991, the beautifully decorated building is the home of Loong, which, at 120 years, is the oldest surviving complete processional dragon, as well as thousands of other significant Chinese artefacts that document the Chinese community’s 170-plus year presence in Australia.
these pages: Bustling laneways in the centre of town are a shopper’s paradise, and you can explore the city and learn about its history along the way aboard a Vintage Talking Tram.
92 | australiancountry.com.au australiancountry.com.au | 93 surface, but we cram it in nonetheless and find it’s easy to build a theme into the miles to suit any eclectic taste, be it heritage, art, gourmet or even petrolhead. In a little-known fact, Bendigo is actually a designated UNESCO City of Gastronomy, so you can be sure it takes your taste buds seriously.
The range of dining options is surprisingly wide for those who choose to stay in town. There are all kinds of quick ’n’ easy options to be found. Prominent among them is the creative burger bar, Hustler, a fun and most satisfying feed if you ignore the raunchy moniker. The lads have created an Elvis-themed snack with the towering Burning Love burger for those with a yearning hunger. Step up to The Dispensary in Chancery Lane where maître d’ Andreas will enthral you with his mastery of the menu — and his martinis. Trust him, close your eyes and dine omakase in the compact establishment. It’s a daunting array of dishes that can be solved with The Experience. If you can’t find a seat there, word around town is that Ms Batterhams, Masons and Woodhouse are all up to snuff, the latter a favourite with meat lovers. For sweet tooths, a detour to Indulge Chocolates, where master chocolatier Hayley Tibbet creates the best chocolate treats this side of Bruges. Even the these pages: There’s always something on, with tastings, live music and events often held at the numerous local wineries and vineyards. In a little-known fact, Bendigo is actually a designated UNESCO City of Gastronomy, so you can be sure it takes your taste buds seriously
“We will always have around 200 local wines for sale and about 20 to taste,” Toby says, among boxes and shelving. “Please excuse the mess but we’ve just moved in.”
Belgians are talking about her unique gold caramel creations.
Gwen says as we chow down on gourmet pizzas and lavish ploughman’s platters. The Ravenswood vineyard is a true tourist stop with a function centre, shop, grassed outdoor activities area and plenty of parking. If you’re looking for the full treatment, (wine, dine, glamping), check out Balgownie Estate Bendigo at Maiden Gully. As luck would have it, most of our road time was in the smaller Heathcote Wine Region, a relatively new appellation, just 20 years old, and already home to more than 60 vineyards and wineries. Famed for its ancient red Cambrian soils, it is a Herculean task to round them all up on a single trip, so stop by the Heathcote Wine Hub where Kate Candlish and Toby Burrows have created a nifty tasting venue inside the old 1859 Presbyterian church right on the main street.
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A few clicks north of the town at Ladys Pass is one of the stalwarts of the Heathcote Wine Region, Adrian Munari, whose family have been in Victoria for more than 100 years. His Halliday five-star winery was established in 1992 in a former historic sheep station, and we stay for lunch, enjoying Adrian’s ebullient hospitality and a glass of his signature wine, The Schoolhouse Red. Over at the Shiraz Republic in Cornella, roll up your
Greater Bendigo is surrounded by wine regions and can name two of its own: Bendigo and Heathcote. The eponymous region can trace its vineyards back almost to the beginning of the gold rush when Jacques Bladier and a German chap named Delscher both planted vineyards near Epsom in about 1855. Unfortunately, in a scene played out all around the world, phylloxera spelt the death knell for the pioneering winemakers and the recovery has only really taken place in the last halfcentury at such locations as Balgownie Estate, Connor Park and Byronsvale. Traditionally, the central Victorian vineyards have been known for big reds like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some of the cooler locations producing classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varieties. At St Anne’s Winery at Ravenswood, we take lunch with Gwen Chugg who manages the destination vineyard for the McLean family who’ve been growing wine all over Victoria since 1972. “We grow Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot here and Richard (McLean) makes all the wine at the Moama winery,”
Staying in Castlemaine is a true heritage experience at Green Gables, just one of several comprehensive renovations undertaken by Rod Printz and Donna Greenway around town. The pair have 10 properties in their burgeoning portfolio and look like adding more yet.
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this page: The Shiraz Republic is an award-winning boutique winery that overlooks the property’s 10-hectare vineyard and the region’s former post office and farm. It’s a perfect bookend if you see Dr Dugal James’s collection of Indian, Ducati, BMW and other motorcycles installed in the former Black Swan Hotel in central Bendigo.
At nearby Harcourt, stop in at the General Store for excellent coffee and delicious pastries. Bikers may end up discussing chef Annette Larsen’s family collection of antique BSA motorcycles. Speaking of old wares, The Mill is a collector’s dream. And when you’ve finished perusing the many stalls chock-a-block with kitchenalia, garagenalia and vintage fashion, relax with a meticulously crafted brew at The Shedshaker Brewery, where Doug Falconer might regale you with tales from his stellar rock’n’roll career.
trousers and get into some pigeage, or wine stomping. It’s a strangely satisfying sensation to have the rich macerated Shiraz and Grenache grapes ooze up between your toes. The Republic’s “president”, Brian Spencer, and his family kicked off at the 10-hectare property in 1995 and now declares “we’re in the tourism business”. They have installed a craft-beer brewery, accommodation and a DIY vintner experience called Rent-a-Row, where guests can pick, crush, press, maintain and bottle their own premium Shiraz. Castlemaine has gained a reputation for being a rev head’s nirvana. Could it be that Rod Hadfield’s Hot Rod Museum at Chewton is to blame? Rod has amassed a collection of his own hot rods in the shed of any boy’s dreams. Imagine, if you can, a tiny Italian mid-20th-century 600cc Fiat Topolino refitted with a gigantic 8600cc V12 from an American fire truck. “It’s the only LaFrance-powered street rod in the world that I know of,” Rod says. Yep, it’s that sort of place. And there are 20 more equally outrageous contraptions. Somewhat under the radar is Dave Reidie’s amazing collection of classic and vintage Harley-Davidson motorcycles.
Australian Country’s exploration revealed a rich and rewarding tapestry of premium produce, talented artisans, heritage architecture and a past that reflects the European history of our whole country, not just Bendigo. This prosperous region may have given up 700 tonnes of gold to the Empire but, with a little digging, you can still turn up plenty of shiny nuggets. ac
this page: Top to bottom: Forest View in Castlemaine can be rented on Airbnb and features a generous five bedrooms; or sleep under the stars in style and try glamping at Balgownie Estate.
inside inf O r M ati O n Where to stay hotel ernest hotelbendigo.com.au the cellars at heathcote ii, tooleen thecellars. cheathcote2.comranfordcottage & Mt ida eco cabin, heathcote gspreadingelm.netreengables,castlemaine Boutique accommodation Qualitycastlemaineaccom.com.auhotellakeside,Bendigo lakesidehotel.com.au forest View, castlemaine airbnb.com.au/rooms/17623957 Where to eat and drink the dispensary, Bendigo dispensarybendigo.com hustler Burger Bar, Bendigo hustlerbendigo.com indulge chocolates, Bendigo indulgechocolates.com.au harcourt produce & general store, harcourt Barharcourtproduce.comMidland,castlemaine barmidland.com Ms Batterhams, Bendigo mackenziequarters.com/ hmsbatterhamseathcotewine hub, heathcote heathcotewinehub.com.au Munari wines, heathcote munariwines.com condie estate, heathcote condie.com.au silver spoon estate, Mt camel (by appointment) hsilverspoonestate.com.aueathcotewinery,heathcote heathcotewinery.com.au flynns wines, heathcote flynnswines.com
shiraz republic & cornella Brewery, cornella sshirazrepublic.com.auhedshakerBrewing,castlemaine shedshakerbrewing.com st anne’s Vineyards, ravenswood stanneswinery.com.au/ location/big-hill-bendigo What to do Bendigo tourism (including castlemaine, Maldon and surrounds) bendigoregion.com.au the Mill, castlemaine millcastlemaine.com.au golden dragon Museum, Valentine’sgoldendragonmuseum.orgBendigoantiquegallery,Bendigo valentinesantiques.com
Balgownie estate, Bendigo balgownie.com/bendigo Bendigo winegrowers, Bendigo bendigowine.org.au
Bendigo pottery, epsom bendigopottery.com.au Bendigo art gallery, Bendigo bendigoregion.com.au/ cbendigo-art-galleryentraldeborahMine, Bendigo central-deborah.com
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