Issue 137 • Apr/May 2016
+RegionalBusinessReview
NORTHERN
EXPOSURE We discover Groote Eylandt offers amazing adventures both above & below the water
WHAT’S ON
TOWNSVILLE
SKI RESORTS
OIL & GAS
EDUCATION
AUSTRALIA’S FINEST STILL AND SPARKLING ARTESIAN WATER
Holly Tapp, Akuna Blue™ Brand Ambassador
AKUNA BLUE™, DRINK HISTORY akunablue.com.au
facebook.com/akunablue
twitter.com/akuna_blue
instagram.com/akunablue
to Manila
Kupang
Katherine McArthur River
Cairns
Tennant Creek The Granites
Welcome aboard!
Alice Springs
Christmas Creek
A u s t r a l i a Toowoomba
Melbourne
This month’s issue takes you coast to coast, showcasing some of the first-class events being held across Northern Australia over the next few months, together with unique accommodation options. Excitingly, we have commenced nonstop jet services between Toowoomba and Melbourne, and Toowoomba and Cairns. Residents of Toowoomba and the surrounding regions can now enjoy the sporting, shopping, dining and cultural experiences of Melbourne as well as the diverse natural treasures of tropical Northern Queensland. In April, the sound of galloping hooves will pound through Clifford Park on Weetwood Raceday, Toowoomba’s greatest horse-racing meet, worth more than $650,000 and part of the Queensland Winter Racing Carnival. The premier race is the Weetwood Handicap, a 126-year-old event that’s expected to draw a
5,000-strong crowd and some of the state’s best horses. Over 10 exciting days in May, Argyle Diamonds’ Ord Valley Muster will be held at venues in and around Kununurra, Western Australia. Comprised of more more than 30 events, this year features Australian restaurateur and TV personality George Calombaris and former Powderfinger frontman Bernard Fanning. The muster won the 2015 Tourism Award for Australia’s Best Regional Event and tickets will sell faster than ever this year, so I urge you to grab yours before they sell out. Heading east, Townsville turns up the volume this month. For motor enthusiasts, Castrol EDGE Townsville 400 V8 Supercars is three days of fun-filled excitement. Live music fans have the choice of getting their groove on at Groovin the Moo, a 10-day festival packed
with some of the world’s finest musicians; or experiencing Rocket Man, an entertaining salute to Sir Elton John. From here, we head north to Groote Eylandt in the Gulf of Carpentaria, renowned for its Aboriginal art and culture, and some of the best fishing in the world. The traditional owners of the Groote Eylandt archipelago are the Warnindilyakwa people, usually referred to by their language name, Anindilyakwa. Wherever your destination across Australia’s north this May, there are plenty of memorable ways to experience the local culture – here we give you just a taste of what’s on offer. Now sit back, relax with our inflight service and enjoy the issue. Daniel Bowden Chief Executive Officer
Airnorth reservations: 1800 627 474 or airnorth.com.au 1
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Reeling’em in on
GROOTE Our clumsy fisherman Roderick Eime finds plenty to get excited about on Groote Eylandt
ang! I’m on. Even clumsy fishos like me will know the satisfying tug of a healthy game fish when it latches on – and so the fight begins. “Get ’im in!” Nick urges me as I fumble with the reel. I haven’t put on my waist bucket, so the end of the rod starts to dig into my tender bits as I struggle to land what I’m certain is my biggest fish ever. Nick Darby is my professional fish guide and the younger half of the father-andson team who manage the sport fishing
operations here at Groote Eylandt Lodge in Northern Territory’s Gulf of Carpentaria. “Don’t back off, keep the line tight …” Whatever it is, it has plenty of life in it as I pull on the rod and reel it in a couple of metres at a time. Nick has the net and the gaff hook ready and seems almost about to leap over the side with his weapons to get this monster on board. A flash of silver teases me in the clear waters below as the animal fights to the last. But then, all of a sudden, the agitated antics of my fish are gone and I’m left
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with a massive deadweight, like I’ve hooked a refrigerator. “Bugger!” is not what Nick said, but it was a loud expression of disappointment all the same and he took the reel from me to land whatever had taken over my lure. A couple of minutes later, I could see what it was – and it was angry. A shark, perhaps nearly two metres long, had taken the fish before I could get it close enough to the boat. “You have to be quick,” Nick reminded me. “These guys will have your fish as quick as a flash.” So, in the space of the next hour, we managed to land a couple of 10-plus kilogram GTs (giant trevally), a queen fish or two and the odd decent snapper and nanoguy. We keep the last two for the kitchen, but the queenies and GTs go back. Annoyed as I am that we lose so many fish to sharks, I am buoyed by the knowledge that so many sharks and fish are a sign of a very healthy marine ecosystem. Now I have to confess, despite numerous golden opportunities over the years, I’m still a dunce when it comes to fishing, but here in the waters off Groote the fish are so keen, you have to bait your hook behind a tree. And even if the ravenous whaler sharks get every second one, there’s still plenty in the tub at day’s end.
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“You have to be quick,” Nick reminded me. “These guys will have your fish as quick as a flash.”
FA
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Groote Eylandt
Groote Eylandt
Groote Eylandt Lodge is located just outside the only substantial township on Australia’s fourth largest island, Alyangula, where the big bulk carriers tie up to load their cargo of manganese ore every couple of days. This valuable, coal-like metal has been mined here since 1964 and is a vital ingredient in modern steel-making. Royalties are paid to the local Anindilyakwa Land Council (ALC) and some of these funds are used for community projects and developments like Groote Eylandt Lodge. Right now, any slack in the lodge’s capacity is taken up by the FIFO boys who rotate through Darwin, so there’s always a healthy crowd at the bar and in-house Seagrass Restaurant which, by the way, is more than happy to cook your prize catch for your dinner. Nick and his dad, Andrew, won the contract to operate the game fishing and maintain the two state-of-the-art, twin 150hp boats custombuilt in the USA and decorated with local indigenous motifs. Now, while fishing may be the big drawcard, it’s certainly not the only thing going for Groote Eylandt and the lodge. Nick introduces me to Scott Wurramarrba, a minor mountain of a bloke with a barbed-wire beard and a shearer’s handshake. He’s the real deal. 16
Nick and his dad, Andrew, maintain the two state-of-the-art, twin 150hp boats custom-built in the USA and decorated with local indigenous motifs.
KUNUNURRA – THE KIMBERLEY IN THE AIR, ON THE WATER AND UNDER THE STARS
Come and join us for an unforgettable helifishing adventure
HELISPIRIT.COM.AU | CALL 1800 1800 85
Cruise the gorges and wetlands of the mighty Ord River
TRIPLEJTOURS.COM.AU | CALL 08 9168 2682
Relax in stylish, award winning accommodation set amongst tropical gardens
FRESHWATERAPARTMENTS.NET.AU | CALL 1300 729 267
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Groote Eylandt, as I am about to learn, is home to some of most sought-after East Arnhem Land traditional art.
“The nose is a bit of a giveaway,” he jokes, pointing to a large, but unusually slender nasal appendage, “my dad was Greek.” With that we jump in the troopie and head off for a tour of the island and its indigenous sites. Scott’s trusty dog, Lady, takes her place in the back seat. Groote Eylandt, as I am about to learn, is home to some of most sought-after East Arnhem Land traditional art. We make a beeline for a rock art cave site that Scott confesses is older than anybody knows. It’s a welldocumented site, currently well clear of any mining operations, and is sign-posted from the road. “Sometimes I just come here and chill out,” Scott says, his piercing eyes surveying the scene. “The connection with the country 18
is strong here and after an hour or so just being quiet, I feel quite… energised.” The roof of the cave is vast and covered almost to every corner with all manner of depiction. Dugong, crocodiles, dolphins, turtles and fish are painted in vivid ochres, interspersed with images of canoes and figures hunting. My ad-hoc tour includes glimpses of the townships and some of the remote settlements made up of just a few shacks and shanties. Scott relates some of the clan stories to me as we drive. “Sure, there are some things we need to sort out as a community,” he says candidly, “but as you can see, there’s plenty here to work with. There are other sites too, but I can’t show you those. Sorry.”
Djakanimba Pavilions.
A sanctuary of elegant comfort, located in the heart of Australia’s Timeless North just 29kms from the historic township of Katherine, the Lodge provides a level of excellence in accommodation, service and dining.
Djilpin Arts welcomes you to our new architect designed guest facility Djakanimba Pavilions Beswick, a new standard in remote accommodation. Come and experience community life knowing that your room rate is going straight back into supporting remote Indigenous art, culture, training and employment. E: tourism@djilpinarts.org.au
Phone: 1300 146 743 reservations@nitmiluktours.com.au www.cicadalodge.com.au Quote “TOPEND” at time of booking.
T: (08) 8977-4250
W: www.djilpinarts.org.au Beswick/Wugularr Community
Welcome to Katherine! See our land..... help us share our story! Often called the ‘Crossroads of the North’ because of its location, Katherine is the fourth largest town in the Northern Territory and is located 312 km south-east of Darwin on the Katherine River. The Katherine Visitor Information Centre is fully accredited and operated by the Katherine Town Council. Visit our online booking site to make all of your tour and accommodation bookings online: www. visitkatherine.com.au before you arrive, or come on into our centre and see one of our friendly staff and we’ll keep you busy on your holiday.
Katherine Visitor Information Centre Cnr of Lindsay St and Stuart Highway Katherine NT Phone: 08 8972 2650 Email: visitor@ktc.nt.gov.au Web: www.visitkatherine.com.au
or
re t n rin Ce e h at ion K t e Th ma r o f In isit V e
Staying at Groote Eylandt Lodge: • Waters Edge Accommodation • Seagrass Restaurant & Bar • Day Spa • Art Centre & Cultural Experiences • Conference Suite
one of the most exciting fishing grounds in the world
GROUP SAFARIS CORPORATE RETREATS PRIVATE CHARTERS Call toll free 1800 877 O77 or visit GrooteFishing.com.au
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“We’re working on an artist development program, which means the talented artists here have access to good materials and somewhere comfortable to do their work.” Adjacent to the lodge is the Anindilyakwa Arts and Crafts centre where superb bark paintings and the most exquisite and intricate woven items are displayed and for sale. I catch centre manager Lorna Martin as she’s packing some large pieces into her fourwheel drive to deliver to an excited buyer. “We’re working hard on an artist development program,” she says, “which mostly means making sure the many talented artists here have access to good
materials and somewhere comfortable to sit and do their work.” While Groote may have its challenges, the 16 local Anindilyakwa clans have a secure financial base with which to develop not only the lodge and its many offerings, but robust cultural experiences that can stand on their own. And remember, even if by some miracle you do not catch a fish on Groote, it’s still a far better day than any you’ll spend in the office!
FACT FILE To plan & book your fishing adventures visit: grootefishing.com.au Groote Eylandt Lodge, managed by Metro Hotels, has 74 waterfront cabins and bungalows overlooking the gulf. Deluxe, water’s edge cabins with spa baths and private balconies are the accommodations of choice. The lodge also provides business and meeting facilities, a wellness spa, gym and a swimming pool. grooteeylandtlodge.com.au Nearby, guests can play a round on the 9-hole golf course or swim in the community pool. A small shopping village is located in Alyangula centre. Airnorth flights from Darwin to Groote Eylandt (GTE) take approximately 1.5 hours. On arrival there is a lodge shuttle service (charges apply). airnorth.com.au
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