TOURING
SOUTH EAST QUEENSLAND
BEYOND BEEF & BRASS MONKEYS
SOUTH EAST QUEENSLAND
Dramatic boulders give Queensland’s Granite Belt its name. (Louise Wright)
Away from the Gold Coast glitz and Brisvegas, we climb to the rocky Granite Belt in search of fine wine and great steaks by: ROD EIME
SOME LOCKYER VALLEY HIGHLIGHTS The Queensland Transport Museum Features a magnificent display of different forms of transport of various ages and a display of 200 models exploring the founders and functions of the transport industry. Location: 34 Lake Apex Drive, Gatton www.facebook.com/qldtransportmuseum
TOURING
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ith the coronavirus circulating and borders closed, Queensland as a riding destination has been neglected in recent issues. To correct this glaring oversight, we called out to you, our loyal and well-ridden “ridership”, for suggestions. The answer came back as a resounding vote for the so-called Granite Belt, a rocky, high-altitude region renowned for its cooler climate and rich, productive soils. It’s an easy hour-or-so ride from Brisbane and a land of plenty when it comes to great roads, flash wineries and top tucker. We were not disappointed, although timing our visit to coincide with rain squalls and flooded streets wasn’t ideal. We bade soggy Brissy farewell and headed west toward the Lockyer Valley, itself a veritable primary production breadbasket well known for vegetable and grain growing, as well as sheep and cattle grazing. Just an hour by road from Brisbane along the Ipswich Motorway (M2) and Warrego Highway (A2), it’s an easy commute. Normally we’d be keen to investigate all kinds of backroads and byways, but with the everpresent threat of deluge, we were keen to get to our first overnighter at Plainland. At the rather unremarkable intersection at Laidley Road, adorned with the great icons of multinational fast food, is the historic, century-old Plainland Hotel, owned by the last three generations of the Porter family. Brand-new, surprisingly quiet motel rooms are more like studio apartments and the renovated bistro serves local beef steak sandwiches to match the best. This retail oasis packs a few surprises too — Schulte’s meat market for one. You might not be able to pack a side of beef into your panniers, but there’s always room for a few packs of jerky, chilli beersticks or a “stuck” of brilliant bratwurst to go with lagers after “stands down”.
Scotty’s Garage Museum & 1950s Diner Call in for great coffee, cakes, Devonshire tea, gourmet burgers and lunchtime grills. With wood fires in winter, cool trees in summer, The Barn is a truly unique venue. Location: 1709 Flagstone Creek Road, Upper Flagstone www.thebarnandscottysgarage.com.au
Awassi Queensland It’s all about the artisan bespoke cheeses at the new purpose-built cheesery, milking parlour and farm gate outlet. Milk sheep and make cheese. How good is that? Location: 776 Sandy Creek Road, Grantham www.awassiqueensland.com.au Plenty more to explore on the website: www.luvyalockyer.com.au This shepherd’s hut dates from 1842 and was originally located at the Ballandean Station, now at the Stanthorpe Heritage Museum. (RE)
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TOURING
SOUTH EAST QUEENSLAND
The Mild Hogs on home turf through the granite at Wyberba, south of Stanthorpe (RE).
These placenames around Stanthorpe reflect the famous WWI battles many of the returned soldiers fought in (RE).
The Mild Hogs at Wallangarra Railways Station, Museum and coffee shop. (RE).
SOME SOUTHERN DOWNS AND GRANITE BELT HIGHLIGHTS Castle Glen Australia Meet the eccentric and ebullient Cedric, who brews, distils and ferments a staggering range of beverages, including many award-winning spirits. Location: 3184 Amiens Road, Thulimbah Qld www.castleglenaustralia.com.au
"Jam-packed with superbly preserved old trucks and vans…" Day 2 and we’re heading west, via Forest Glen, toward the shire’s “capital” at Gatton to have breakfast with Pastor Doug at Killing Time with Coffee. Doug is the local Baptist clergybloke and he’s a keen rider on his Honda Shadow. Over copious cups of coffee and splendid eggs and bacon, we discuss a short riding program. The Lockyer Valley Regional Council (LVRC) takes its road-tripping visitors seriously and has concocted several comprehensive themed drive/ride programs, all of which have their own dedicated leaflet with map and suggested stops. The Antiques & Collectables Trail, for example, takes in The Barn & Scotty’s Garage, one of Queensland’s best museums of automobilia and all things retro, as well as Laidley Pioneer Village, the Unique ‘n’ Fabulous Emporium and a dozen more. Pastor Doug is taking us to see one of Queensland’s most important motoring museums, the Queensland Transport Museum, inside the Lockyer Valley Cultural Centre. It’s jam-packed with superbly preserved old trucks and vans as well as models and memorabilia. There are a few bikes, cars and military vehicles too and displays change regularly. We continue south towards the Southern Downs, stopping for milkshakes and banter with Deb Wallis at the delightful Ma Ma Creek Milk Bar. The 100-year-old store is part of local folklore and the burgers are talked
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Stanthorpe Heritage Museum More than 20,000 items in 15 buildings describing the history and heritage of the Stanthorpe and Granite Belt region, especially the WWI soldier settlers. Location: 12 High Street, Stanthorpe www.stanthorpehistoricalsociety.org.au
Granite Belt Brewery Run by owners Dee and Geoff, this excellent destination complex has a great range of beers, ales and ciders, meals and quality accommodation. Ideal for your motorcycle group. Location: Glenlyon Drive, Stanthorpe www.granitebeltbrewery.com.au Geoff and Dee Davenport raise a glass at the Granite Belt Brewery (RE).
Pete’s Hot Rod and Resto Shop Pop in and see fair dinkum “Greased Lightning” hot rods under construction from the ground up. Pete and the team welcome visitors — just call first and he’ll put the kettle on. Location: 148 Watson Road, Cottonvale www.facebook.com/peteshotrodsandrestoshop
Downs Explorer The Southern Downs Steam Railway Association Inc (SDSR) runs fabulous heritage steam railway tours out of Warwick on the disused narrow gauge line. Location: Brosnan Crescent, Warwick and Cottonvale Railway Precinct www.downsexplorer.org.au And lots more on the website: www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au
Quality food and produce is a hallmark of the Granite Belt and Lockyer Valley. (Louise Wright)
Wallangarra Railways Station, Museum and coffee shop (RE).
about all along the highway. Speaking of which, from here we can take either the Gatton Clifton Road (Route 80) or the Mount Sylvia Road, both of which are chockers with twists and turns. The former still carries some heavy vehicles and the latter becomes a single-lane track in some spots, although the views are superb. Good to ask locals about prevailing conditions before you commit.
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TOURING
SOUTH EAST QUEENSLAND
SOUTH EAST QUEENSLAND
"…take either the Gatton Clifton Road (Route 80) or the Mount Sylvia Road, both of which are chockers with twists and turns"
THE MAP
Interior of Blue Topaz Diner (RE).
https://bit.ly/38CSVjw
Pastor Doug burns up State Route 80 toward the Theiss cutting (RE).
Interior of the shepherd’s hut (RE).
Australian Road Rider, in conjunction with TomTom, is going to provide routes for tours where we can. The map published here points you in the right direction. Follow the link below or scan the QR code and you can see and follow the map on your phone, save it to your TomTom Rider GPS unit or download the GPX file for other devices.
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Link: https://bit.ly/38CSVjw Classic Velocette at the Queensland Transport Museum, Gatton. (RE)
We’re going via Route 80 because Doug wants to show us the famous Thiess Cutting, where brothers Bert and Leslie dug a massive 35m groundbreaking cut through solid sandstone at Heifer Creek in 1939. It was a big deal at the time and the rest, as they say, is history. We say Godspeed to Pastor Doug while we continue south through Allora and into the Southern Downs and Granite Belt at Warwick. Take Tourist Drive 11 to spare yourself the highway traffic on the New England Hwy (Route 15). We roll into Stanthorpe, home of the fabled Brass Monkey, and the High Street Motel and Steakhouse. Our hosts, Shannon and Shaun, are also movers and shakers behind the local motorcycle club, The Mild Hogs, who will guide us around the region. It’s no coincidence that we chose these digs. Dinner is a juicy South East Queensland beef steak with local red wine. Local beers from the Brass Monkey Brewhouse are also on tap. Day 3 kicks off at Foxy’s Bakery further down the main street, where we meet Shaun’s mates, Jeff and Gus, from the Mild Hogs. “Someone came up with the name ‘Wild Hogs’, probably from the movie, but take a look at us. Yeah, nuh, we’re the mild ones,” Jeff laughs. The club now has more than 100 members and at least that many bikes. We shoot off on the backroads around Stanthorpe, rounding up such sights as the famous 7500-tonne, 18m Ballandean Pyramid, the dam (although it could use some more rain) and the curious cross border
TOURING
railway station at Wallangarra, also a great coffee stop and photo opportunity. So what’s with the pyramid? Was it aliens, a lost civilisation or just a whimsical notion by the landowner who had a lot of rocks left over after tilling for vineyards? Yep, you guessed it. Speaking of wineries, Michael and Ann Bourke at Jester Hill are definitely worth a visit. Michael loves to talk motorcycles, especially if you are a fan of the 1960s BMW tourers. Ballandean Winery, near the mystical pyramid, is another worthy of your time. Our “burger break” was at the cute, retro Blue Topaz Diner at the caravan park of the same name. Make sure you’re hungry as you won’t find these creations under the golden arches. The saddest part of our visit, apart from leaving, was the short time we had available. Two nights was way too short to do the region justice, especially if you’re coming from interstate. Of course, day trips from Brisbane are a doddle. If you’re planning a trip up here — as much as anyone can plan anything these days — try to give yourself more time. You can even hire a touring motorcycle from EagleRider down in Springwood. It’s a great escape from the heat and humidity along the coast and is an ideal destination for motorcycle touring. Throw in super grub, accommodation and more wineries than you could ever hope to visit. Chuck a leg over and get up here. aRr
EVENTS HMCCQ Bike Swap It didn’t happen in 2020 but it might be a starter for ’21. Annually in October and organised by the Historical Motor Cycle Club of Queensland, the Laidley Motorcycle Only Swap Meet is a venue for motorcycle enthusiasts to buy, sell and swap motorcycles, motorcycle parts and motorcycle memorabilia. www.hmccq.org.au
Carnell Raceway The Queensland Early Motorcycle Sports Club promotes road racing for all types of historic motorcycles built up to December 1990. Races are held in March and July. www.qemsc.com.au
Morgan Park Raceway Track days and road racing events for cars, bikes and historics are held regularly at this 3000m sealed circuit at Warwick. See the full calendar at the website. www.morganparkraceway.com.au
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