Fiji: Island Time

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SUPERYACHT DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY TAKING THE COMFORTS OF HOME TO SEA

DESTINATION FIJI

THE SOUTH PACIFIC’S ISLES OF SMILES

OCEAN ROAD

FORWARD THINKING OF NEXT GEN AUDI Q7

CHARTER YACHTS

A QUESTION OF CHOICE SAIL OR POWER

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ISLAND TIME

RECENTLY, THE WIN GALLUP POLL DECLARED FIJIANS AS THE ‘HAPPIEST PEOPLE ON EARTH.’ REPEAT VISITOR RODERICK EIME SHARES HIS EXPERIENCES ON JUST WHAT IT IS ABOUT FIJI THAT KEEPS LURING HIM BACK.

oceanmagazine.com.au

SPEED BUMP Take full advantage of crystalline waters and a fleet of water toys.

MODERN FIJI CULTURE Of course while those ancient elements remain important, the Fiji of today is typified by the trappings of tourism with lavish and expansive resorts, both on the main islands and in the remote groups.

Resort development has flourished despite a complicated traditional land tenure system that allows the 83 percent held by indigenous Fijians under communal relationships to be leased but not sold. It is under this system that most resorts operate including the most prominent of these, Denarau Island, a short drive from the international airport at Nadi.

Here, visitors will find the Westin Resort and Spa Fiji, Sheraton Villas,

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SACRED KAVA – BE A GOOD GUEST AND DRINK One remnant of the ancient culture that has been preserved and now holds pride of place in modern Fijian village life is the kava, or yaqona, ceremony performed by the chief and his senior aides.

Yaqona (pronounced yang-GO-na) is a mildly tranquilising, non-alcoholic drink that numbs the tongue and lips. Better known as kava, it’s made from the waka (dried root) of the pepper plant.

The ceremony is a formal event, with mats spread on the floor where the handcarved tanoa – a wooden bowl as large as a metre across – is placed on top. A long fibre cord decorated with cowrie shells leads from the bowl to the guests of honour. The guests then offer a bundle of waka to the hosts followed by a short speech announcing the purpose of their visit – a custom known as a sevusevu.

The waka are then scraped clean and pounded in a tabili (mortar). The pulp is then put in a cloth sack and mixed with water in the tanoa.

The ceremony is steeped in ancient ritual and there is a strict process before the kava can be drunk, which is done out of a half coconut shell.

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F

iji, a land renowned the world over for its welcoming smiles and laid-back persona, has a rich and diverse history, with traditional culture still bearing a strong influence on modern life.

PACIFIC PARADISE From top: The kava ceremony is an ancient Fijian tradition that is still practiced today; There are plenty of luxury hotels to choose from; The marina at Port Denarau has all the amenities and berthing for superyachts up to 75 metres; Why not be pampered in paradise?

Sheraton Resort, Radisson Fiji, Wyndham Resort, Sofitel and the Hilton Resort and Spa. All-in-all, some 1,720 rooms and 35 restaurants.

The marina at Port Denarau is a centrepiece of the island and attracts yachties and superyacht owners alike.

It offers one of the highest standard of operations in the region and is claimed to have Fiji’s most comprehensive marine services and haul out facilities including a 50-tonne travelift, forklift services, short and long term boat storage and dry stack facilities. A new 836-square-metre, two-storey yacht club is also under construction.

A true superyacht marina with 100 berths, including six over 35 metres and one over 75 metres, Port Denarau provides substantial retail and entertainment facilities and is perfectly placed to take advantage of the ‘Superyacht Decree’ introduced by the government in 2011. This decree vastly simplifies the entry of superyachts into Fiji waters and permits extended chartering and cruising.

While commercial cruise operators Blue Lagoon, Captain Cook and Tui Tai offer excellent tourist quality products, it is private chartering that will deliver the ultimate experience in these waters that encompass almost 20,000 square kilometres and 300-something islands, most of which are uninhabited. A private charter will allow you to take in such evocatively named

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LIFE AQUATIC From top: A surfing decree allows surfing anywhere in Fijian waters whether staying in a hotel or not; Explore the more remote islands in style; Private chartering is the very best way to get around these waters; Opposite page, from top: Snorkelling and scuba diving is popular due to Fiji’s stunning soft coral and underwater life; The Superyacht Decree from 2011 now makes it easier for superyachts to enter Fijian waters.

ashore, you can hike the narrow paths that guide you through the undergrowth to the next waterfall, and then the next.

Every so often you might come across a cranky, bright red land crab throwing up a challenge. If you allow time, trek all the way to the volcanic crater at 800 metres where Lake Tagimaucia nurtures its legendary namesake bloom.

Both Kioa and Rabi are curious little islands, known for their transplanted Polynesian and Micronesian populations.

It’s a delight to receive an energetic greeting in their respective native customs, carefully maintained despite the distance from their original homelands.

Private ships have begun finding their way out to the Northern Lau group, previously off limits to all but the most independent of travellers. With its strong Tongan influence, the islanders trace their heritage back to the days when they were at war with the Fijians some 150 years ago. The Lau Islands are the birthplace of the late Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara (the first Prime Minister and founding father of the modern nation of Fiji) and are held in high esteem as a result. oceanmagazine.com.au

According to Captain Dave Jameson of yachthelp.com, Fiji enjoys a mild, tropical climate with warm dry winters from May to October and a warmer wet season from November to April. Don’t let ‘Winter’ put you off as temperatures average around 29 degrees and the weather is settled with blue, sunny skies. At all seasons the winds over Fiji are light or moderate and the trade winds are predominant from the East to Southeast. Fiji offers a multitude of cruising options to match any discerning guest.

ACTIVITIES Just like the Superyacht Decree, there was also a ‘surfing decree’ introduced around the same time, which opens all of Fiji’s waters to surfers regardless of whether they are staying at a resort or not.

Even though it is possible to surf all year round, local experts will tell you April to October is best when low pressure systems in the Southern Hemisphere generate consistent swells as high as four metres. Those same experts will tell you Fiji’s surf is not for beginners as there are lots of reef breaks ready to shred the unwary. Apart from a couple of simple beach breaks like Sigatoka on the main island of Viti Levu, most are located in the Mamanuca chain off Denarau, home to Cloudbreak and others near Tavarua and Namotu.

Wind and kite surfing is great in Fiji and is best around the Sigatoka River mouth.

The scuba diving opportunities are similarly immense. PADI accredited operators are administered from Australia, so standards are high with properly ticketed resorts. As with anywhere in the Pacific region, watch out for unregistered operations who may not be as rigid with their upkeep.

Fiji is widely acknowledged as the soft coral capital of the world and the best diving isn’t on the big island of Viti Levu.

Instead, go to the outer islands. This is a good area for sea snakes, soft corals, stonefish, and clown fish. Other large

DEREK HENDERSON

DEREK HENDERSON / FRASER CLEMENTS

locations as Taveuni, Rabi, Kioa, Yasawas, Mamanucas and the charming old heritagelisted capital of Levuka, which retains the kind of Fiji character first seen by early traders and explorers.

The most accessible cruising is in the Yasawa and Mamanuca islands, just a couple of hours from Port Denarau. There are plenty of superb resorts, great diving and islands to stretch your weary sea legs.

Taveuni, known locally as the ‘Garden Island,’ is everything you could imagine any mythical tropical island paradise to be. Sparsely populated, intensely green and dissected by beautiful streams. Going

creatures and pelagics that can be seen include turtle, dolphin, mantas and a wide variety of sharks.

And if the big predators don’t faze you, the world-famous Beqa Lagoon shark diving with Aqua-Trek is a life-changing experience. Skilled dive guides will handfeed hungry bull and even tiger sharks right in front of you. That’s right, no cage.

Having done all of that, however, be sure to partake of the ancient and exotic practice of the kava ceremony to really understand what Fiji is all about.

Writer, Roderick Eime, first visited Fiji back in 1971 and has lost count of the number times he has returned. More recently he has sailed out to the remote islands such as Taveuni, Koai, Rabi and the seldomvisited Lau Group.

IT IS PRIVATE CHARTERING THAT WILL DELIVER THE ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE IN THESE WATERS WITH ITS 300-SOMETHING ISLANDS.