SPONSORED CONTENT APT AND EXTRAORDINARY WESTERN AUSTRALIA
ADVENTURES ON THE KIMBERLEY COAST RODERICK EIME WEATHERED by eons of rain, wind and sea spray, the cliffs of the Kimberley are almost as old as the earth itself. Standing on the deck of an expedition ship and gazing up at the savagely weathered, golden stone edifices along the Hunter and Prince Regent Rivers is spine-tingling. You are seeing a snapshot of our planet so old, it predates the earliest forms of multicellular life by hundreds of millions of years. That’s the thing about the Kimberley, like Mother Nature herself, every tick of the timeclock in this precious corner of Western Australia’s north-west is measured in increments of centuries. Whether you’re a captain of industry, celebrity superstar or humble everyday Aussie, the Kimberley doesn’t care. You’ll be gone and forgotten before she’s taken her next breath. The mysterious Aboriginal rock art from the Wandjina and Bradshaw (Gwion Gwion) periods offers an exquisite indication of humanity’s miniscule impact on this vast region, and viewing them gives the modern day visitor an almost eerie sense of their own insignificance. It’s a reality check that visitors to the Kimberley experience on a daily basis. Today, cruising the Kimberley coast is done in style, on small expedition ships with experts on board to bring the region’s history and culture alive. Passengers marvel at nature’s grandeur as they explore a coastline that is, in many places, only accessible by water. Highlights of this iconic adventure include the twin King George Falls, which plunge 80m into Koolama Bay. Cruise operators, such as Australianowned APT, will bring their Zodiac vessels so close that your whole body will shudder as the cascade plummets
into the waters of the bay, enveloping you in a dense, soaking spray. Smaller expedition ships, including APT’s MS Caledonian Sky, are nimble enough to give guests an up-close look at the coastline, with all passengers able to disembark at once on to Zodiacs for even closer exploration. Take a bucking, high-powered fast boat ride through the incredible Horizontal Waterfalls in Talbot Bay, where raging 10m tides force their way through two narrow gorges, creating a powerful white water surge. And cruise among the eddies and whirlpools at Montgomery Reef on a Zodiac, as the retreating tide reveals terraced waterfalls rising from the depths like a resurgent Atlantis. Pull on your hiking boots for a walk to the eye-popping Wandjina rock art gallery at Raft Point, where a glimpse of life long before the first Europeans set foot in this land will change your perspective on time forever. Beyond the Prince Regent River and into the Kimberley’s northern region, you can visit the enigmatic Gwion Gwion rock art, also known as “The Bradshaws” after Joseph Bradshaw, thought to be the first European to have documented the art in 1891. Archaeologists involved in research funded by the Kimberley Foundation Australia to date the art believe these could be as old as, or older than, the rock art in France and Spain. Not all rock art sites are accessible to tourists, but the KFA is working with tour operators such as APT and local communities to facilitate respectful access at such sites as Munurru, near the King Edward River Crossing, and the Wandjina rock art gallery at Raft Point. Key to a satisfying Kimberley experience is the company of knowledgeable expedition leaders. On
APT cruises, experienced expedition team leaders are supported by up to 10 team members, all handpicked for their unique knowledge of the region. From a deep familiarity with the wildlife, to a knowledge of history and even the best viewpoint from where to capture an unforgettable photo, a good expedition team adds depth and richness to the visitor experience. On arrival in the region, most visitors’ first sight of the landscape is from an aircraft as it prepares to land in the historic port town of Broome. Vivid greens, golds and ochres wash the landscape below, from horizon to horizon, while rivers and scrubby trees form the pastel vistas which have inspired great Australian artists and poets through the generations. Wise visitors will spend a few days in intriguing Broome, the Kimberley’s unofficial capital. With a vibe that combines frontier village spirit with go-ahead modern business nous, it’s a
town that never forgets its roots, which extend back more than a century to graziers, pearlers, fishers and miners from multiple ethnic backgrounds. From Broome you can also follow your coastal cruise with 4WD adventures among the Kimberley’s land-based attractions. Wonders such as Cathedral Gorge, Lake Argyle and Mitchell Falls are just some of the incredible sights that will complete your understanding of the true scale of this awe-inspiring wilderness. Custom-built 4WD vehicles will take you to Windjana Gorge, Tunnel Creek and the Bungle Bungle Range (Purnululu National Park), the extraordinary sandstone domes that have only been on the outside world’s radar since late last century. Stroll deep into the Bungle Bungle Range along winding Piccaninny Creek, then hike up to Cathedral Gorge, a natural amphitheatre with incredible acoustics. For the ultimate
Bungle Bungle thrill, take a scenic helicopter flight to experience the massif from the air. Stay overnight at one of APT’s three wilderness lodges, included on the company’s tours but also accessible to self-drive travellers. Located at Mitchell Falls, Bungle Bungle and near Bell Gorge, the lodges feature comfortable, well-equipped tented cabins and allow visitors to dine al fresco in the most unforgettable surroundings. On-site hosts bring individuality and a personal touch that adds to the experience. A journey to the Kimberley takes time, but by combining carefully chosen land and coast cruises, visitors can experience the best of the region. Even when you leave, this mystical corner of Australia will stay with you for many years to come. START PLANNING YOUR 2018 KIMBERLEY ADVENTURE WITH APT TODAY. SEE KIMBERLEYWILDERNESS.COM.AU/2018
SPONSORED CONTENT APT AND EXTRAORDINARY WESTERN AUSTRALIA ANCIENT MYSTERIES
Clockwise from above left: Exploring King George Falls in an APT Zodiac; Mitchell Falls; a guide reveals the mysteries of indigenous rock art; the ancient Bungle Bungle Range.
The indigenous tribes of the Wandjina people comprise the Ngarinyin (the largest group), the Worrora and the Wunumbal. These people were among the first to make contact with Europeans at the beginning of the 17th century, when Dutch mariners began washing ashore along the WA coast. It is fitting, then, that four respected elders of these clans were among the early founders of the ‘Bush University’ and the Wandjina Foundation, now known as the Kimberley Foundation Australia (KFA), with the aim to ‘build bridges of two-way understanding and two-way learning’ between the traditional owners and non-Aboriginal people. In July 2016, a comprehensive survey of Aboriginal rock art was launched by the KFA in conjunction with the Balanggarra people and The University of Western Australia, with the aim of finding and documenting some 30,000 images at 250 sites. The survey and its companion rock art dating project are funded for five years by the Foundation. KFA chief executive Cas Bennetto explains that the Kimberley rock art is globally significant. “The Kimberley has one of the greatest bodies of figurative art on the planet. Most rock art sites in the Kimberley and other parts of northern Australia have never been studied scientifically and the scale of the effort needed to address this is vast and increasingly urgent.” The KFA is at the forefront of scientific research with a commitment to supporting Kimberley rock art research.