Interesting Islands
Interesting Islands
ISLAND
Dreams
WORDS: RODerick EIME
B
ig ones, small ones, dry ones, wet ones, busy ones, lonely ones. Islands come in all shapes and sizes, from a humble rock in the ocean to mini continents bursting with diversity. They almost always present a unique culture or ecosystem that can often set them apart from their closest neighbours. Many islands, even tiny ones, have animal and plant species not seen anywhere else on the planet. Islands are popular destinations for cruise vessels large and small. Often the only way to visit these fascinating places is by sea, making them exclusive and sought after, and the everincreasing popularity of cruising is opening up many of them to tourists. We’ve put together a Top 10 with a difference and dug deep into the world’s cruise itineraries to find great island destinations you may never have heard of or considered as a cruise destination. There are bound to be some surprises!
46 WINTER 2008 www.cruisepassenger.com.au
www.cruisepassenger.com.au WINTER 2008 47
Interesting Islands
1 Malta
#
The tiny island of Malta is tantalisingly placed amid the dense archaeological wonders of the eastern Mediterranean. Surrounded by the rich and complex Roman, Greek, Egyptian, Phoenician and Arabian histories, Malta maintains a set of impossibly ancient ruins that appear not to relate directly to any of the encompassing cultures. Among the most fascinating of these is the Hypogeum in Paola. Inscribed onto the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1980, the Malta National Museum of Archaeology describes the site, albeit dryly, thus; “The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is a unique structural masterpiece carved in the living rock. The monument seems to have served primarily as a cemetery over a period spanning several generations. The origins of the monument are unclear, but pottery fragments dating to the Zebbug phase suggest that the site may have become a cemetery by around 4000BC. The Hypogeum remained in use till about 2500BC.” The Hypogeum is but a gateway to many more sites on this historically rich island. Don’t go past the Knights Fortifications around the harbours, the catacomb complexes, Mdina (Città Vecchia), Qawra/Dwejra or the Victoria Lines Fortifications. Furthermore, Malta can legitimately claim to possess the planet’s oldest still-standing buildings. Local resident Paul Zammit compares the ruins to Stonehenge, saying “the megalithic temples situated on the Maltese archipelago are older, much more grandiose, more instructive (less fantasy is involved in their interpretation) and must-see-to-believe relics than the mere Stonehenge in many people’s opinion apart from mine!” Malta is well serviced by the major cruise lines. See Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, Cunard and P&O. 48 WINTER 2008 www.cruisepassenger.com.au
SNORKELLING & DIVING shortlist: Lizard Island (Qld), Hideaway Island (Vanuatu), Galapagos
Malta
NATIVE CULTURE shortlist: Trobriand Islands (PNG), Hokkaido (Japan), San Blas Islands (Panama) The islands (note plural) of Papua New Guinea deliver some of the most fascinating and hypnotic cultural and indigenous experiences anywhere on our planet. From the wild and mysterious Huli wig men, mud men and duk duks, the tribal diversity and sheer visual spectacular of Papua New Guinea is sometimes matched, but never surpassed. Just to the north of the eastern-most tip of the mainland, into the Solomon Sea, are the Trobriand Islands, a fabled land of sorcery, black magic and entrancing damsels to rival the Tahitians. And binding the many outer islands together is the ancient and secret art of kula. Medang-based Melanesian anthropologist, Dr Nancy Sullivan, explains: “Kula is nothing if not a game of
Sicily
FOOD & WINE shortlist: Sicily, Tasmania, North Island (NZ)
2
#
Ancient Greeks and Romans, Goths, Vikings, Turks, Spanish and North Africans have all had a hand in the mixing pot which now constitutes Sicilian cuisine. “So in western Sicily you’ll see signs announcing couscous is being served that day, in the south, it’s almond granita (a flaky ice) and a sort of brioche for breakfast, and some of the best chocolate, while everywhere there are food markets that would be at home in the Middle East. “In the countryside expect to see prickly pear laden with red fruit on the roadside and olive and orange groves. Sicily is a fragrant, colourful, absolutely delicious island.” Palermo and Messina are the popular ports, but cruises also stop at Catania. Well serviced by all the major cruise lines such as MSC, Costa Cruises and NCL.
influence. And, just as women will achieve reputations for being alluring and influential, men gain renown for their skill at kula. Indeed, in a matrilineal society, where land and titles are reckoned through the mothers and sisters of a family, and where men work for their nieces and nephews rather than their own children, it is kula that makes men famous. They gain status in life and live through history by their achievements at kula. And with the valuables they have worked so hard to win – but which must eventually be traded away – men will decorate their sons and daughters for ceremonial occasions. In this way, while bequeathing them nothing, they give them the gift of adornment and beauty, and in so doing provide that very important edge in the competitive art of persuasion.” Nancy regularly travels as a guest lecturer aboard Coral Princess and Aurora Expeditions journeys to PNG. See also Orion Expeditions and North Star Cruises for more great itineraries.
The balmy island republic of Vanuatu has been on the list of tropical paradises since forever and especially since James A Michener made the whole place famous in Tales of the South Pacific. Although it may not have the wartime shipwrecks of PNG, the Solomons or Micronesia, Vanuatu and Hideaway Island in particular has allowed many regular cruise passengers the opportunity to sample some of the best diving and snorkelling anywhere in the world. Graham Selleck of Frog Dive, Sydney has travelled the world in search great Yangtze River diving spots and needed no prompting when asked his favourite. “There are few places around the world where you can get off a cruise ship, large or small, and be diving among really beautiful coral and underwater marine species so close to port. The added advantage is that even folks who can’t scuba still have a great time just snorkelling in the marine reserve where the water is so clear and clean it’s amazing. Novice scuba divers can have an easy dive in warm water with plenty to see and there are even ‘first timer’ lessons available too with the fully endorsed PADI Scuba Experience.” P&O is a regular visitor to Port Vila. Be sure to get your name down for the Hideaway Island excursion early, it’s bound to be popular.
4
#
Hideaway Island
Triobriand Islands
Sicily
Sicily is one the best Mediterranean island destinations, even if you don’t consider it a gastronomic attraction. You’ll enjoy fabulous food with lashings of rich history and culture against a stunning natural backdrop. Strolling through any of the local food and produce markets is an experience in itself as you are confronted with beautifully presented fish, fruit, vegetables and even packaged delights. Sicilians love their food and wine and you’ll find their passion translates into the many restaurants, cafés and bars. Acclaimed food and wine author, Sally Hammond, author of Just a Little Italian, explains why she loves Sicily. “Sicily has been over-run and colonised by many nations over its long history.
Credit: Roderick Eime
CLASSIC HISTORY shortlist: Cyprus, Malta, Sicily
Hideaway Islan
d
3
#
Triobriand Islands
WILDLIFE shortlist: South Georgia, Galapagos, Madagascar
5
#
South Georgia
A honey pot for naturalists, the once-threatened seal and penguin populations have more than bounced back thanks to rigorous conservation policies and an abundant marine food source. Dubbed “Survival Island” by Sir Richard Attenborough, he says of South Georgia: “The sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia is the only island suitable for breeding for thousands of miles in the Southern Ocean. Each spring, animals as disparate as the elephant and fur seals, king and macaroni penguins, albatross, and giant petrels visit the island to reproduce.” And do they ever! The hundreds of thousands of noisy king penguins on Salisbury Plain, the raucous, boisterous herds of fur seals or the poetic, sublime choreography of the Wandering Albatross’s mating dance will leave you changed forever and a with a deep appreciation for the delicate balance of nature. You’ll find the better Antarctic operators visit this island just once or twice each season. Look for itineraries from Adventure Associates, Peregrine, or Aurora.
The enormous flocks of King Penguins on South Georgia are one of theworld’s wildlife highlights
ROMANCE shortlist: Bora Bora, Cuba, Hawaii The incurably romantic Caribbean island of Cuba is one of the last true Communist redoubts of the 21st century and has captured the imaginations of artists, poets and musicians for as long as we can remember. Cuba is almost always in the news. The legendary revolutionary, Fidel Castro Ruz, who turns 82 this year, is clearly on a short countdown until his ultimate term expires. The resilience of the Cuban revolutionary government has created a nation that almost stands still in a time of cold war. With his imminent passing, and especially since the withdrawal of Soviet aid, Cuba will inevitably be drawn into the broader world economic community. Cuba’s attraction as a tourist destination is due in part because of the world’s curiosity with this stubborn regime. But Cuba, in its own right, is a vibrant and exciting destination blessed with idyllic beaches and fascinating ba
6
#
Cuba
Cu
early Spanish history dating back to Columbus. More recent figures like Ernest Hemingway, Desi Arnaz, Celia Cruz and Gloria Estefan reinforce the romance and passion of the island. Cuba’s rich musical heritage has reached world popularity with musicians such as the Buena Vista Social Club and the Afro-Cuban All Stars. Glenn A Baker, popular music historian and social commentator says “There is a constant, inescapable sensuality to the entire Cuban experience. For all the crumbling decay, the tarnished and faded glamour, and the shortages and sacrifices of a country whose economy virtually collapsed when the Soviets cut off the drip-feed more than a decade ago, there is nothing dormant or moribund about the place. “Take Latin vibrancy and pride, wind it up a few notches with classic Cuban machismo, stir well with history, intrigue and uncertainty, garnish with a siege mentality, serve warm with Spanish style and you have the very core of the Caribbean, its only truly essential destination.” It’s still tough for Americans to visit, but all that will shortly change. Visit Cuba now – before the revolution. Cruise lines Fred.Olsen, Hapag-Lloyd and Voyages of Discovery are among the lines that visit Cuba.
Credit: Roderick Eime
The impossibly remote island of South Georgia is now a regular inclusion on the more comprehensive Antarctic itineraries, bringing eco-tourists from around the world to visit the abandoned whaling stations and outrageously overpopulated wildlife sites.
Blue Lagoon
8
# Credit : Roderic
k Eime
Saint Martin/Sint Maarten, Ibiza
7
#
52 WINTER 2008 www.cruisepassenger.com.au
Ibiza
PARTIES & NIGHTLIFE shortlist: Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten, Ibiza, Whitsunday Islands (Qld) Let’s face it, parties and cruise ships go hand in hand, but where can you get some sophisticated nightlife ashore without hordes of South Georgia inebriated yahoos? The Caribbean is alive with party atmosphere catering to all types of cruisers. But for classy, grown-up fun it’s hard to go past the island of Saint Martin, divided almost equally between France and the Netherlands, where you can combine all your favourite daytime shore activities and dining with a round-the-clock, laissez-faire party scene. Laced with casinos, nightclubs and resorts, adults have the luxury of choice from mild to wild. Live music, like the whole Caribbean, is an essential part of life after dark. Check out the hotspots: the News Music Café, Greenhouse, Indiana Beach, Amnesia and Cheri’s Café. Local knowledge says the Dutch of Sint Maarten have the better nightclubs, while the French have better restaurants. You be the judge. Like any good Caribbean island, there is carnival. Curiously the French and Dutch sides celebrate different dates with the Dutch just after Easter and the French almost all of February with one event or another – so this little island really goes off. Most cruise ships will visit Sint Maarten, docking at the popular port of Philipsburg. Stuck for starters? Try the St Maarten Party Bus aka The Macarena Choo Choo. Cruise Lines: Carnival, Celebrity and Royal Caribbean visit regularly.
MYSTERY shortlist: Malta, Easter Island, Wrangel Island
the occasion visit by cruise Tristan da Cunha is one of the world’s ship and tiny (98 sq km) Tristan most sought-after destinations for da Cunha is one. Its volcanic travellers determined to find a special peak, rising to just over place.” There you have it. 2000m, is 2800 kilometres In the last few years, the island has from the nearest mainland received visits from Professor Molchanov, # (South Africa) and there is MV Corinthian II, MV National Easter even a sign identifying it Geographic Endeavour and the sailing Island as the most remote island in vessel, Europa. Needless to say, you need the world. to book well ahead. walking, horse-riding or 4WD hire The tiny community Tristan da Cunha is the best way to explore. Be sure to of 270 shares just eight visit the excellent little museum and as surnames and has only recently many Moai sites as possible. been granted a postcode by Easter Island’s incredible remoteness Britain, to whom the islanders owe makes a shipboard visit there unusual and their allegiance. All residents live is most often part of a round-the-world in the capital: Edinburgh of the itinerary. Start with Princess and Seven Seven Seas. Seas. The island’s message to intending visitors is: “There are MOST REMOTE no package tours for independent # shortlist: Pitcairn Island, travellers, no hotels, no airport, Tristan da Cunha, Marquesas Tristan da no holiday reps, no nightclubs, Cunha Surprisingly, there are several almost no restaurants, no jet skis nor unbelievably remote islands that still attract safe sea swimming. Nevertheless,
9
10
Many people were introduced to the enigmatic stone Moai of Easter Island (Rapa Nui) via the outrageous extraterrestrial claims made by Erich von Daniken in his controversial book and documentary, Chariots of the Gods, where he suggested the great idols were constructed by aliens. That theory is all but debunked, but as the truth behind the statues was revealed, the real mystery was just as engaging. How could an entire population, once thriving and healthy, destroy themselves so comprehensively? How did such a remote and under-resourced community construct these enormous carvings and then transport them overland to all corners of the island? To visit Easter Island is to view not only an enduring archaeological mystery but an anthropological one as well. The famous 20th century explorer, Thor Heyerdahl, proposed that the population arrived from South America and even floated the raft, Kon-Tiki, there to prove his theories. But, thanks to modern DNA, the few remaining indigenous Rapa Nui are undoubtably Polynesian. With just basic infrastructure and a relaxed, even lazy lifestyle, Easter Island is a fascinating landing. Minibus tours, www.cruisepassenger.com.au WINTER 2008 53
Credit: Roderick Eime
DRAMATIC SCENERY shortlist: South Island (NZ), Réunion, Tasmania Characterised by an aggressive, active Characterised by an aggressive, active volcanic landscape, Réunion is the Hawaii of the Indian Ocean with towering, thickly wooded peaks and a couple of decent beaches. Almost overlooked by its betterpublicised Indian Ocean neighbours, Mauritius and Madagascar, Réunion is small enough to be romantic and civilised enough to offer a comfortable, Europeanstyle experience. After all, it is part of France, yet with a sultry and tropical Creole flavour. Réunion’s interesting, predominantly French colonial history serves as a fascinating counterpoint to the jaw-dropping terrain on this 2500 square kilometre island. A ‘must-do’ among the serious trekking community, it is mentioned in the same breath as the Himalayas and New Zealand, with the three ‘cirques’ (natural amphitheatres) providing stunning venues for energetic strolls. The Cirque de Salazie, the Cirque de Cilaos and the Cirque de Mafate each evolved from the original Piton des Neiges volcano (3000m) that formed the island. There is also fascinating hiking around the active Piton de la Fournaise, a shield volcano on the eastern end that rises above than 2631 metres. Most of the population is arranged around the coastal perimeter, but three tiny villages form superb little microdestinations on their own; Cilaos, Salazie and La Nouvelle (in the Cirque de Mafate), which is only accessible only by foot or helicopter. There are around 30 cruise visits to the island annually with P&O, MSC and Silversea the most regular. The main port is Pointe des Reunion Galets.
Interesting Islands
Easter Island
Reunion
Credit : Roderick Eime
Interesting Islands