CP54 The Last Frontier by Roderick Eime

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AWARDS SPECIAL ISSUE

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WORDS: RODERICK EIME

Adventure cruising is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the industry and cruise companies are responding with newer, more luxurious vessels. he burgeoning demand for exploration and adventure is, perhaps, not surprising given that so many of us, raised on David Attenborough's documentaries and concerns aboul our ptanet, now hunger lo get close

to nalure. Greg Mortimer is one of Australia's very few home grown heroes of Antarctic exploration - his company was among the ploneers of modern commercial expedition cruising some 25 years ago.

"When I started operating cruises to Antarctica ln 1990 there were three small ships involved in the industry, carrying about 2,000 people per annum. Now there are approximately 33 ships carrying about 30,000

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people per annum and 95 per cent ofthese go to the Antarctic Peninsula "

Changing market forces and a growing public awareness about Antarctic travel

G'eg has retained the authentic exploration values of his early voyages. "That experierce

seeking the Antarctic experience.

has driven me to take Adventure Associates

fhls new company] out to the boundaries, like the voyage we are doing to Mawsons Huts with the University of NSW [in December]l'

means

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hard-core adventurers

Enrer the five-slar expedition cru se's, which inject many of the luxuries and delights of the big-ship experience into smaller, adventure-sized vessels carrylng just 200

passengers or fewer.

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embracing this "purist"form of expedition cruising. But not everyone wants to cruise in a repurposed former Soviet oceanographic vessel like Polar Pioneer built for the rigours of the Arctic, robust and reliable but lacking in

interestlng debate among those who spend their holidays in such far flung places about when an adventure is an expedltion, and when it is.just a cruise. Traditional lines like Silversea, Compagnie du Ponanl, Hapag-Lloyd and ever Celebr'ly are enticing travellers away from the predictable big-ship experience and onto smaller, boutique vessels with a dash of derring do. To do this, they are translating those aspecl s o[ l he big ship that are'expected" by their clientele - things like fine dining with silver service, massages and spa treatrnents. But cabaret and sland-up comics are typically replaced by erudite lecturers and experts in ecological studies like ornithology, glaciology, ethnology or history. In March, Lindblad Expeditions will rename

many'truise ship" creature comforts.

its newest vessel /VationalCeographtc Orion.

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Companies like Aurora, Heritage Expeditions and Adventure Associates are

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WORDS: SALLY MACMILLAN

CRUISE DESTINATIONS

Exploring the world's most remote, unspoilt regions on a small ship is a dream for adventurous cruisers. Check our at-a-glance guide to the hot spots where key specialist companies are operating next year and beyond. 1.

Antarctica

Why you'd go: lts wildlVisitor numbers who can make landfall are limited for ecological reasons. ltineraries vary: check that South Georgia is included. Sea and weather conditions can be extreme but if you're up for the challenge it's a life-changing experience. What you'll see: Wildlife such as penguins, seals, birds, dolphins and orcas; icebergs calving in a vast frozen icescape; scientific research stations.

Who goes there: Adventure Associates, Aurora, Compagnie du Ponant, G Adventures, Hapag I loyd Cruises, Heritage txpedilions, Hurtigruten, Lindblad, One Ocean, Peregrine/ Quark, Seabourn, Silversea, World Expeditions. When to go: November to March.

2. The

Arctic (Arctic Ocean,

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Sweden, Finland and Iceland) Why you'd go: To meet indigenous communities in remote regions; follow in the footsteps of famous explorers; exper ience

the midnight sun. What you'll see: Polar bears, whales,

seals,

pufflns, reindeer, muskox; breathtaking icescapes, lords and tundra wildflowers. Who goes there: Adventure Associates, Aurora, Compagnie du Ponant, G Adventures, Hapag-L loyd Cruises, Heritage Expeditions, Hurtigruten, Lindblad, One Ocean, Peregrine/ Quark, Silversea, World Expeditions. When to go: May to September.

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Whyyoud go:The"land

of fire and ice"has only been open to Westerners since 1990; many of the giant snow-capped voicanoes

are still active; to learn about indiqenous culture and Russian history. What you'll see: Brown bears and reindeer; nomadic reindeer herders; extraordinarily rich marine and birdlife in the Kuril lslands. Who goes there: Hapag-Lloyd, Silversea Expeditions, Heritage Expeditions. When to go: May to September.

ll.Indonesia Why you'd go: The world's largest archipelago consists of some 18,000 geographically and culturally dlverse islands, of which about 12,000 are uninhabited. What you'll see: Orang-utans in Borneo; Torajan villages in Sulawesi; the boat people of Sangliot Dol; Komodo dragons; an infinite varietv of exotic flora and fauna. Who goes there: APT, Compagnie du Ponant, Hapag-Lloyd, Lindblad, Seabourn, (ihrcr<c: Fvnpditinn<

When to go: May to September.

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g. Peruvian Amazon River Why you'd go: The Upper Amazon River

w can only be navigated by small or expedition ships and it's heaven for naturalists and o o ornithologists. Expeditions on remote o tributarles are taken on small skiffs and vou o can visit riverbank villages. l o What you'll see: The Amazon rainforest is f home to the highest concentration of bird c species on the planet, plus unique animal o species such as red howler monkeys and o three toed sloths. o Who goes there: Aqua Expeditions, 3 Avalon Waterways, Delfin Amazon Cruises, _e_

Hapag-Lloyd, Lindblad.

When to go: Year-round.

6. calapagos Islands Whyyou'd go: Because the archipelago was isolated from mainland South America for millions of years, the native animals have no fear of humans - which means you can snorkel with sea lions and have up-close encounters with birds and animals on the islands. What you'll see: Marine iguanas, giant tortoises, flightless cormorants, blue- and red-footed boobys; the Charles Darwin Research Station.

Who goes there: Celebrity Cruises, Lindblad Silversea Ixpeditions, Quasar Expeditions.

When to go: Year-round.

J. Micronesia/ Western Pacific Islands Why you'd go: To explore the distinct identities and cultures of the four states of Micronesia (Chuuk, Kosrae, Pohnpei and Yap) and snorkel, kayak and dive in pristine

tropical waters.

What you'll see: Lush volcanic islands, underwater World War ll wrecks, coral reefs, a diversity of traditional village life and ceremonies, ancient ruins

on Pohnpei. Who goes there: Lindblad, Silversea Expeditions.

pristine coral reefs and colourful marine creatures;World War ll relics. Who goes there: Coral Princess Cruises, Heritage Expeditions, Lindblad, North Star Cruises, Paul Gauguin Cruises, Silversea Expeditions.

When to go: March to December

When to go: Ship visits are scheduled in March and April 2014.

8. Papua New Guinea Why you'd go: Papua New Guinea is relatively close to Australia (160km north) but a totally different world. Some 700 trlbes live there, each with their own customs and languages. Much of this geographically and culturally diverse country is untouched by tourism. What you'll see: Tribal villagers practising traditional sing-sings and dances; amazing birdlife (birds-of-paradise are native to PNG);

$. Africa: Atlantic Coast, CapeVerde Islands, Madagascar Why you'd go: While mainstream cruise lines visit Africa s major ports, the West Coast is less visited. The Cape Verde lslands

and Madagascar are emerging destinations offering yet more insights into the'dark continent': What you'll see: Spectacular coastlines, tribal villages, relics of slaving history, how voodoo originated, jungles, rare wildlife, superb dive sites. Who goes there: G Adventures, HapagLlovd, Lind blad, Silversea Expeditions.

When to go: Year-round, depending on weather zones; expedition cruises are very limited in number.

lO.The l(imberley Why you'd go: The only way to explore the dramatic Kimberley coastline and its bays and tributaries is bV sea. What you'll see: Aboriginal rock art; vast sandstone gorges and waterfalls; the tidal Montgomery Reef; pearl farms; saltwater crocs and some 300 bird species. Who goes there: APT, Coral Princess Cruises, Lindblad, Silversea Expeditions, North Star Cruises (for full list of operators see kimberlevcruises.com).

When to go: March to September.

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Onboard experts play a vital role on any adventure cruise and the nnnd nnoq rnrill "" , tave you h,anninn A\/Ar\/ I rur r:Jrr r:, nff vr I thoir Lr rLrr L v Lr / I

word, rolling in the aisles nr Anffnr \Jtl LJELLgI both. WORDS ROD

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ofadventure cruising - the expert guides who take you to the world's wild piaces, then enrich that experience with their knowledge.They are now in such high demand that poaching the mn \l nnnl is

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becoming increasingly common in the

adventure-cruise world.

Advent.Itrr't.i\er\ don'f l..tt.dve thOuSands of mi es for the view. They want to touch, feel and understand the wild ife and environment they are visiting. So

the best expedition cruise lines employ

lecturers, guides and interpreters who have vast experience in their field. Whars tle po nt i^ stard,rg ne<t to > r lrresr

Shackletons grave on South Georgia if you have no idea who he is and why hes buried there? What species of penguin lives the farthest south? Why do wha es go to Antarctic waters?

Why does ice come in different shades of blue ar^d low olo .s it?Who !\d5 t"le sr per)on to

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And, that burning questlon, how

did Shackleton end up buried on South Georgia?

Justin Friend, of Austronesian Expeditions,

ADVENTURE

Champagne and canapes with the boffins on a Silversea Expeditions' Antarctic voyage

CRUISING'RK

says, "The'market'for expedition staff is very fluid. People are on the move all the time and it is dictated by two factors: the cruise line, which needs someone with expertise in a particular

field and region that matches the itinerary, and the personal desires ofthe expedition staff "They are just like passengers - they want to go to new destinations. 'All companies must keep a core of fulltime or regular expedition staflThis builds

consistency and client confidence and, often, clients will follow staffto their new shipsi' On any trip to the Antarctic Peninsula, you should expect to find lecturers in history, nature and perhaps geology to help you digest the deluge of visual information you witness daily. Not for nothing does Lindblad leverage its NationalGeogrcphic connections in all its marketing. lt means it can deploy geographers, oceanographers, historians and scientists from one of the most recognised brands in the world. And Lindblad promises certified photographic instructors on every trip

to ensure passengers capture the memories. Aurora Expeditions includes Howard Whelan

among

its

expedition

company, and even worked on Happy Feet. Expedition leader and research fellow Gary Miller is an expert on polar bears, while historian Carol Knott specialises in remote communities.

Aboard Notlona I Geographic Orion, Mick Fogg carefully unrolls his vast knowledge in a way that everyone can understand and appreciate. lcan't remember his

J\lancy Sullivon conhold o

ne vwocrous Dr

sPecialtv, but he can lecrure wirh rhe besr on such varied scientific

topics as marine biology,

ship tronsfr xed utith her zoology, vulcanology ano georogy. descriptions of "Donnlo f:hn:rrj the convoluted KuIa expedition shipsl are looking for a full trading potterns of the experience behind their Milne Boy region aboard i"""rrlHa'.t "ur."rr."v story, want the whole Oceanic Discoverer.'

crew Founding editor of Australian Geographic,

Howard runs a media and polar logistics

notjust another photo

for their album.They're asking questions and

filling in gaps in their own understanding and often sharing their knowledge - just don't ask me about global warming!" The vivacious Dr Nancy Sullivan, a US-born,

Madang-based anthropologist, can hold a ship transfrxed with her descriptions of the convoluted Kula trading patterns of the Milne Bay region aboard Oceanic DBcoverer. A vocal advocate for responsible tourism in

her beloved PNG, Nancy believes tourism is a

force for good. "lResponsible]Tourism

good for Papua

New Guinea, lt brings much-needed funds to remote communities, encourages them to maintain traditional culture and prevents the

young men, in particular, from seeking work in the cities where they're exposed to many dangerous influencesl'