10 LIFESTYLE
WEDNESDAY JANUARY 3 2018
Preserved and UNESCO-listed Old Town of Havana offers charm and style from a bygone era.
A Cuban cabbie with his superb 1955 Buick waits for a fare under an image of revolutionary Che Guevara.
Cienfuegos pier on the south coast offers plenty of colour and places to relax by the water.
Pictures: RODERICK EIME
Step back in time in Cuba RODERICK EIME
THE Caribbean island nation of Cuba has been a hotbed of revolution for nearly 500 years. And now with the passing of the controversial hero, Fidel Castro, it is poised for yet another. With the world tumbling headlong into a multinational homogeneity quicker than you can say “would you like fries with that?”, it’s refreshing to see Cuba retain individuality that goes against the tide of global blandness. But for how much longer? Cienfuegos pier on the south coast of Cuba is a Let’s remember that in recent colourful place to relax and take in the view. history Cuba came to a virtual standstill in 1960 after Fidel Castro and his revolutionaries overthrew a corrupt, US mobbacked government, confiscating and nationalising hotels, government services, housing and civil infrastructure. As a consequence, the new republic immediately fell victim to a longstanding US trade embargo that continues more-or-less to this day. A glimmer of hope was raised with some relaxation of sanctions by the Obama administration but much of that freedom was reversed by Donald Trump. Right now, Cuba is in a sort-of Female ‘costumbristas’ in Old Havana provide tourists renaissance twilight zone, ready with colourful photographic subject matter. to move forward but hampered by
an unpredictable fog ahead. Combined with Castro’s curious brand of Latino socialism which all but eliminated private enterprise, the freehold property market and capitalism generally, Cuba found itself in a real-life time capsule. Havana is a prime example. “We have a wonderful heritage in our architecture and culture,” Pedro Vazquez, a noted Cuban architect and urban designer said. Vazquez was referring to the sprawl of civic and residential structures all over Havana that portrays a mixture of proud colonial revival and sad neglect. Most buildings in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed ‘old town’ are preserved and maintained by the state and host many thousands of tourists on a regular basis but not far away are signs of a frail, teetering metropolis. As an unabashed car nerd, my attention was immediately drawn to the mobile motor museum continuously on the move around the streets of Havana. Chevrolet, Ford, Buick, Dodge, De Soto, Lincoln and even extinct brands like Studebaker, Edsel and Turner can be spotted by the astute car buff. One excursion on my itinerary was a ride to ‘Finca Vigia’, Ernest Hemingway’s former residence in
a pair of well-maintained Chev Impalas operated by local autoentrepreneur ‘Nostalgicar’. Most of these thousands of old cars operate as ad hoc taxis, supplementing the shortage of reliable public transport and expensive (for locals) official cabs. To the west of Havana is the province of Pinar del Río, famous for its tobacco production. Here we met Benito whose family had been here in the Vinales Valley for five generations producing the valuable crop first cultivated here by the Spanish in the 16th century. Modern tobacco is derived from the wild ‘cohibo’ weed used by the long gone Arawak Indian ‘bezique’ (shamans) during ceremonies. From that rough leafy plant sprung a most valuable primary product that has become a major contributor to the Cuban economy alongside coffee and sugar. We’re shown the art of hand rolling the cigar into its familiar, leafy tube. Like so many small private farms in the valley, 90 per cent of Benito’s crop’s selected for agreed government production under controlled conditions while any left is for him to sell as he wishes. This is typically as ‘cleanskin’ cigars which come without any
HELP SICK KIDS FORGET THEY’RE SICK For just $10 a month
certified branding but smoke as well any Cohiba or Monte Cristo for a fraction of the price. I bought a clutch of 10 for not much more than a buck each. Along the southern shore of the island is the World Heritage city of Trinidad de Cuba where the entire central portion of the city is set aside for preservation. One of the most visited destinations in Cuba outside of Havana, the narrow cobblestoned streets are usually filled with camera-toting tourists snapping the 500-year-old houses, painted in colourful tones. Many are still occupied by residents, while others are boutiques, restaurants, bars and curio shops. Most of the souvenirs you find throughout Cuba are mass-produced by state factories. Travel to Cuba can be a bit confusing with constantly changing regulations, so a strong recommendation is to consult an experienced agent and join a tour or cruise like Peregrine Adventures’ small group ‘Cuban Panorama’ which combines land excursions with small ship cruising to explore some of the lesservisited locations. For more information, visit www.peregrineadventures.com The writer travelled in Cuba as a guest of Peregrine Adventures
GOLD COAST/BRISBANE DAY CRUISE
Sails from Marina Mirage at 9am and returns 5pm INCLUDES • Day cruise • Morning & afternoon teas • Delicious BBQ lunch • Return coach • Wonderful marine life
NEXT CRUISE DATE
SATURDAY 6TH JANUARY 2018
PER ADULT
you can
89
help sick kids, like Jasmine.
SPECIAL
BOOK NOW at www.brisbanecruises.com.au or PHONE OFFICE 07 3630 2666
Donate now
TUE 23/1
MON 5/2
WED 21/2
starlight.org.au
IT’S E
kab.ngo
VERY
ONE’S
BACK
YARD
#tidyaussie
GCSE01Z01MA - V1