Cruising goes Wild in PNG

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papua new guinea

Cruising Gone Wild in Papua New Guinea Our close neighbour, Papua New Guinea, is one of the last truly wild frontiers.

To fully experience this vivid and exciting land, adventure cruising is the way Words and Photography Roderick Eime 60 DRIVEN

Like fleeting shadows in the undergrowth, they moved silently and stealthily, occasionally stopping, half-hidden, to check the progress of our canoes along the narrow, mangrove-lined creek. Smeared head-to-toe with thick, dark volcanic mud and just a tiara of mangrove leaves as camouflage, they were stalking us. Â Through the silent swamp our mysterious followers continue to monitor our journey like the fabled masalei (forest spirits) of local legend. The heavily-laden canoes glide effortlessly along the still waters, just yards from the densely-wooded embankments. Now our pursuers reveal themselves in spectacular fashion. Leaping out from behind huge trees, they bring our party to a halt with incomprehensible, blood-curdling cries. From hidden vantage points within the undergrowth, saplings are hurled at us and some bounce menacingly off the side of the canoes. Gasps of alarm are clearly heard from several passengers and muffled chatter comes from others as we try to interpret their apparently hostile intentions.

Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel

ABOve the luxurious oceanic discoverer. left the tufi villagers.

DRIVEN 61

papua new guinea

Cruising Gone Wild in Papua New Guinea Our close neighbour, Papua New Guinea, is one of the last truly wild frontiers.

To fully experience this vivid and exciting land, adventure cruising is the way Words and Photography Roderick Eime 60 DRIVEN

Like fleeting shadows in the undergrowth, they moved silently and stealthily, occasionally stopping, half-hidden, to check the progress of our canoes along the narrow, mangrove-lined creek. Smeared head-to-toe with thick, dark volcanic mud and just a tiara of mangrove leaves as camouflage, they were stalking us. Â Through the silent swamp our mysterious followers continue to monitor our journey like the fabled masalei (forest spirits) of local legend. The heavily-laden canoes glide effortlessly along the still waters, just yards from the densely-wooded embankments. Now our pursuers reveal themselves in spectacular fashion. Leaping out from behind huge trees, they bring our party to a halt with incomprehensible, blood-curdling cries. From hidden vantage points within the undergrowth, saplings are hurled at us and some bounce menacingly off the side of the canoes. Gasps of alarm are clearly heard from several passengers and muffled chatter comes from others as we try to interpret their apparently hostile intentions.

Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel

ABOve the luxurious oceanic discoverer. left the tufi villagers.

DRIVEN 61

papua new guinea

the tufi people are welcoming and friendly towards tourists enroute via their village.

The traditional challenge, thankfully, immediately strike one as somewhere to is all part of the show put on for us today go for a holiday – until you meet the people. by the Tufi villagers. Once strangers would Their genuine hospitality and warmth be challenged and encouraged to state is difficult for suspicious, westernised their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. visitors to interpret initially, but once Our passivity assumed, we are welcomed acclimatised, their powerful generosity

by Anthony, the local chief, dressed in the of spirit is penetrating. stunning costume that makes Tufi one of This is a land of magic and mysticism, the most spectacular cultural experiences exotic cultures and mind-boggling rituals in Papua New Guinea. Set amid stunning like the convoluted (to us) Kula trade where tropical fjords, Tufi is only accessible by chattels and ‘favours’ are exchanged in air or sea and renowned for its diving, secret and sensuous ceremonies. Just 160 trekking and rare orchids. For the next hour kilometres north of the Commonwealth we are feted like visiting royalty, shown of Australia, Tok Pisin (Pidgin English) the convoluted process of sago extraction, is the only unifying dialect among the ritual tattooing and treated to local ballads 700-something unique languages. Visitors performed by a tiny choir will find the true of children with the voices essence of the of angels.

Melanesians along Once strangers would This delightful scene the coastal fringe be challenged and sets the mood for our between Alotua in encouraged to state 11-night, seaborne Milne Bay all the their purpose – whether way to the mouth exploration along Papua New Guinea’s remote of the Sepik River, friendly or hostile. Our northern coast where Papua New Guniea’s passivity assumed, we’ll make numerous such longest, and across we are welcomed by visits before swinging to volcano-ravaged Anthony, the local chief Rabaul on back to New Britain for the volcanic finale.

New Britain.

“Thank you for visiting Long before our village,” says Anthony as the experience the disruptive intrusion of Europeans, the comes to a close, “please come back again ancient Papuans plied the waters of the soon. Once upon a time, we would be so Solomon and Bismarck Seas in large, happy to see you, we’d make sure you stay ornate canoes, expanding their influence – we eat you up!” And with that delivery with trade and diplomacy. Likewise, we he reels back in raucous laughter slapping employ the most relevant transport for his tummy, bright orange, betel nut-stained our own exploration, Cairns-based Coral teeth exaggerating his mirth.

Princess Cruises luxury expedition yacht, Preserving and encouraging local Oceanic Discoverer. tradition and culture are important elements This exclusivity, I’m pleased to report, of modern adventure travel, but for now I’m does not equate to haughty disregard for the content this once sacred ritual is discussed isolated communities of Papua New Guinea. in the past tense.

While generally happy and healthy thanks Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed to an abundant diet of fresh vegetables and land with an equally wild reputation. Largely seafood, there are the privations of island devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, life to contend with. Expedition cruisers often small ship cruising is the ideal method of assist by bringing educational materials, travel. With less than 100 passengers, some books, clothing, simple medicines and firstas few as 36, these perfectly appointed aid supplies in their luggage – and refilling cruise vessels can pop in to a remote village it again with exquisite art, custom carvings somewhere and be gone again in a few and souvenirs. hours without leaving a trace.

We bid a reluctant farewell to the Within the course of the last century, villagers at Tufi as the excited children first contacts were still being made with scamper along the old wharf to get one remote tribes and cannibals continued to more wave before we disappear. Even eat their dinner guests. Devastated by war though we will soon be one our way to the and plundered by unscrupulous miners and next village, there’s feeling we will never governments, Papua New Guinea doesn’t really leave. D 62 DRIVEN

DRIVEN 63

papua new guinea

the tufi people are welcoming and friendly towards tourists enroute via their village.

The traditional challenge, thankfully, immediately strike one as somewhere to is all part of the show put on for us today go for a holiday – until you meet the people. by the Tufi villagers. Once strangers would Their genuine hospitality and warmth be challenged and encouraged to state is difficult for suspicious, westernised their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. visitors to interpret initially, but once Our passivity assumed, we are welcomed acclimatised, their powerful generosity

by Anthony, the local chief, dressed in the of spirit is penetrating. stunning costume that makes Tufi one of This is a land of magic and mysticism, the most spectacular cultural experiences exotic cultures and mind-boggling rituals in Papua New Guinea. Set amid stunning like the convoluted (to us) Kula trade where tropical fjords, Tufi is only accessible by chattels and ‘favours’ are exchanged in air or sea and renowned for its diving, secret and sensuous ceremonies. Just 160 trekking and rare orchids. For the next hour kilometres north of the Commonwealth we are feted like visiting royalty, shown of Australia, Tok Pisin (Pidgin English) the convoluted process of sago extraction, is the only unifying dialect among the ritual tattooing and treated to local ballads 700-something unique languages. Visitors performed by a tiny choir will find the true of children with the voices essence of the of angels.

Melanesians along Once strangers would This delightful scene the coastal fringe be challenged and sets the mood for our between Alotua in encouraged to state 11-night, seaborne Milne Bay all the their purpose – whether way to the mouth exploration along Papua New Guinea’s remote of the Sepik River, friendly or hostile. Our northern coast where Papua New Guniea’s passivity assumed, we’ll make numerous such longest, and across we are welcomed by visits before swinging to volcano-ravaged Anthony, the local chief Rabaul on back to New Britain for the volcanic finale.

New Britain.

“Thank you for visiting Long before our village,” says Anthony as the experience the disruptive intrusion of Europeans, the comes to a close, “please come back again ancient Papuans plied the waters of the soon. Once upon a time, we would be so Solomon and Bismarck Seas in large, happy to see you, we’d make sure you stay ornate canoes, expanding their influence – we eat you up!” And with that delivery with trade and diplomacy. Likewise, we he reels back in raucous laughter slapping employ the most relevant transport for his tummy, bright orange, betel nut-stained our own exploration, Cairns-based Coral teeth exaggerating his mirth.

Princess Cruises luxury expedition yacht, Preserving and encouraging local Oceanic Discoverer. tradition and culture are important elements This exclusivity, I’m pleased to report, of modern adventure travel, but for now I’m does not equate to haughty disregard for the content this once sacred ritual is discussed isolated communities of Papua New Guinea. in the past tense.

While generally happy and healthy thanks Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed to an abundant diet of fresh vegetables and land with an equally wild reputation. Largely seafood, there are the privations of island devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, life to contend with. Expedition cruisers often small ship cruising is the ideal method of assist by bringing educational materials, travel. With less than 100 passengers, some books, clothing, simple medicines and firstas few as 36, these perfectly appointed aid supplies in their luggage – and refilling cruise vessels can pop in to a remote village it again with exquisite art, custom carvings somewhere and be gone again in a few and souvenirs. hours without leaving a trace.

We bid a reluctant farewell to the Within the course of the last century, villagers at Tufi as the excited children first contacts were still being made with scamper along the old wharf to get one remote tribes and cannibals continued to more wave before we disappear. Even eat their dinner guests. Devastated by war though we will soon be one our way to the and plundered by unscrupulous miners and next village, there’s feeling we will never governments, Papua New Guinea doesn’t really leave. D 62 DRIVEN

DRIVEN 63