14 TRAVEL
WEDNESDAY JANUARY 29 2020
Kimberley cruise offers enriching experience RODERICK EIME THEIR mouthless faces stare out from the rock ceiling, eyes wide and all-seeing. These are the Wandjina, invisible to mere mortals. The Kimberley of Australia’s North West is their realm and they rule supreme, governing the rain and the life-giving regeneration that follows. We’re here in the famous cave at Raft Point, possibly the best known of all Wandjina rock art sites in the Kimberley. Their Dreamtime stories are kept alive by local indigenous people like the Mowanjum people from nearby Derby. Their Dreaming stories tell of the first Wandjina, called Idjair, who lives in the Milky Way and is the father of all the Wandjinas who went on to create the Earth. “The Wandjinas gave the language, the culture and the laws of the country,” Mowanjum artist Leah Umbagai said. “They told us how we have to work the country and how we have to live. So all the laws, language and traditions we got from the Wandjinas. This is a very powerful person or spirit being that we believe in. We are here because of the Wandjinas.” The oldest Wandjina art was created perhaps 4000 years ago. It is traditionally repainted every few years because the dyes and ochres would otherwise fade and deteriorate. Older still are the Gwion Gwion paintings, now so ancient they are fused in the rock itself and impossible to date by conventional methods. Researchers are confident they are at least 20,000 years old, probably older.
ABOVE: The magnificent King George Falls in the Kimberley. INSERT: The unique Montgomery Reef. Wandjina Aboriginal rock art near Raft Point on the Kimberley coast, WA. Picture: Garry Norris Photography Picture: GARRY NORRIS
Coming face-to-face with these prehistoric murals is a humbling experience. All of a sudden you realise how fleeting your existence is and how little the Earth cares about your dreams and aspirations. Even though we may be brief and transient visitors to this realm, it doesn’t stop us marvelling at the grandeur of the creations that surround us here in the Kimberley. The majesty of King George Falls in full flight ranks along with Victoria Falls and Niagara in terms of sheer beauty, if not water volume. The better cruise operators will bring their tenders so close that your whole body will shudder as the cascade plummets 80 metres into the river, enveloping you in a
dense, misty spray. The best way to access these remote wonders is by small ship and expedition cruising has found a solid niche in the Kimberley with more and more vessels plying these remote waters thanks to the accelerating tourism interest in the region. However, with the notorious sixmetre tides, patchy charts and tricky currents, local experience comes into its own. This, coupled with the preference to smaller vessels, makes the Kimberley a premium destination for adventure cruise travellers. One of the acknowledged preeminent operators, is the multi-awardwinning True North Adventure Cruises who have seen more than 30
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years of continuous operation in the region. “We are very different to a big ship holiday,” owner and founder, Craig Howson OAM said. “Our itineraries are always activity-based and much more suited to travellers who are looking for a holiday that is also enriching.” Their luxury expedition vessel, True North, carries just 36 guests in superlative ‘barefoot comfort’, and lavishes guests with such activities as heli-fishing and flight seeing with their onboard jet helicopter, tender exploration into remote tributaries and ecological enrichment thanks to onboard scientists like Dr Andy Lewis, a passionate marine biologist
and expedition leader. For those looking for simpler relaxation, Craig’s team offers unsurpassed fishing in the many tributaries throughout the Kimberley where dedicated anglers can land snapper, mullet, queenfish, mangrove jack or even the legendary barramundi. The Kimberley cruise season is typically between March and September as the weather transitions from wet to dry. Early season has the best waterfalls, while later is best for fishing. The choice is yours, because the Wandjina will be doing their thing regardless, just as they have done since the dawn of time. For details visit www.truenorth.com.au
Tweed $75 million development to start this year A GREAT location, an equally appealing climate and proximity to shops and medical facilities has proved to be a winning combination for Tweed Heads which has been selected for a new boutique over-50s lifestyle resort, GemLife Tweed Waters. Set in a premium position with direct waterway access, GemLife Tweed Waters is expected to be one of GemLife’s fastestselling resorts. GemLife Director and CEO Adrian Puljich said the resort will feature just under 100 homes, creating
a very special and unique enclave for residents. “It’s a fantastic, bluechip position in popular Tweed Heads and we expect this project to be one of our fastest moving,” Mr Puljich said. “The resort design will take advantage of the unique natural features of its coastal location on the water to capitalise on the activities the area is famous for fishing, boating and water sports. “The Tweed is an in-demand area well known for its relaxed lifestyle and mild, subtropical climate –
we’re very excited about seeing this sensational site come together.” GemLife Tweed Waters is located at 30 Fraser Dr, Tweed Heads. Home construction is forecast to begin in mid to late 2020, subject to development approvals. The future resort will feature a waterfront country club which will provide a social hub for the community. Located on part of the former Tweed Heads Rowing and Aquatic Club site at Tweed Heads South, the estate will use
the boat harbour for direct river access. It will accommodate first-class recreational and leisure facilities typical of GemLife resorts such as a gym, sauna, pool and spa, gold class style cinema,
outdoor yoga studio, bar and coffee lounge, barbecue facilities and more. The secure, pet-friendly development will have a gated entry with numberplate recognition. Homes are built using
the latest technology to ensure superior environmental and thermal efficiency and will be six-star energy rated. GemLife is an innovative developer of premium over-50s lifestyle resorts, providing high- quality downsized homes together with exceptional recreational facilities to support active and engaged lifestyles. With the pending official launch of GemLife Tweed Waters, GemLife will have seven over-50s resorts across Australia, including Queensland, Victoria and NSW.
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